from sniderja@email.uc.edu Sat Jan  1 07:52:19 2000

Subject: Re: New Lie-Nielsen Block Plane?

I thought this was the one we had been communicating about recently--
withthe grooved sole. It is just slightly wider than my planing form, easy
toadjust, and the blade seems to be of good quality. I certainly enjoy
usingmine. Fits my smaller hand nicely. I believe that I purchased mine
aboutthis time last year, if I am not mistaken.  I believe Wayne C. called it
toour attention back then.J. Snider

At 04:10 PM 12/31/1999 -0800, Randy Brewer wrote:I was just looking at
the Lie-Nielsen site and it appears they have a newstandard angle block plane
modified for rod builders, unless I've beenmissing something. As usual, no
financial interest, etc. [but I should buysome stock].

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/ambp.tmpl

Randy Brewerbrewer@teleport.com

from ttalsma@macatawa.org Sat Jan  1 08:17:16 2000

Subject: Re: Millenium

Christian, 

You must be planning on spending a lot of time celebrating (about ayear)
since the new millennium doesn't start until 2001!

This guy I want to get to know.

Christian Meinke wrote:

A Happy New to all,

I am leaving home now in a few minutes to celebrate with ourneighbours.

So hopefully everything will still be working when we will return inyear 2000.

Christian

-- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland  MI  49464------

home page:  http://members.xoom.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy
pages:http://members.xoom.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat Jan  1 09:08:24 2000

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

Screw threads used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC,
NF,METRIC,where a diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc.  
Connectingthreads can be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses
that willbestsuit the application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into
this category and a tap and diecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games inhopes
ofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more expensive with age)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine (BSF),
BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form (BA).If,
for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help, trycontacting: 
Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw MillRiverRoad , Elmsford,
N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers" today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in
north central North Carolina)-----Original Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod. Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to go intothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correct direction. Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about 18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Jan  1 09:41:41 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Sat, 1 Jan 2000 09:32:47 -0600

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

Travers Tool has so many odd sizes of taps and dies, and at
mostreasonableprices. This is what led me to make them my major tool
supplier severalyears ago. The 9mm - 1.25 pitch metric tap, is under $8, as
an example. Ihave a 9/16" -48 tap and die set, that would be over $100, 
from any othersupplier, I have found. This was a stock item for Travers, and
the cost wasaround $30 !

I use many such weird sizes now in my main business, as before the
costwasjust prohibitive.

BTW if you know the threads per inch, divide this number into 25, and itwill
give you the approximate metric pitch of the thread. There are anumberof
metric sizes, that have a comparable size in inch threads, as  in a 5-40,is a
direct swap out for a metric 3mm - .6 pitch.

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

Screw threads used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC,
NF,METRIC,where a diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc. 
Connectingthreads can be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses
thatwillbestsuit the application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into
this category and a tap anddiecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games
inhopesofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more expensive
withage)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine (BSF),
BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form (BA).If,
for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help, trycontacting: 
Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw MillRiverRoad , Elmsford,
N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers" today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in
north central North Carolina)-----Original Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod. Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to gointothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correct direction.Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about 18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

from edriddle@mindspring.com Sat Jan  1 10:07:51 2000

Subject: Fw: British Thread

Dave:Closest American I find in what used to be better files is:UNC (Unified
National Course) : Nominal Dia. 5/16" = UNC tpi 18 .Wish I could'a helped.Ed---
--Original Message-----

Subject: British Thread

Dave:I may have tossed my thick book with the most info, can't find it...why
doIdo that?  The limited tables I find for the Threads I mentioned earlierdon't
produce a match.  Someone said 9 mm and that is close on the o.d.,butI don't
have a table with a pitch # on that.  I found an old (10 years ago)phone # for
M&MCC, (914) 769-5020, I think it was their "thick catalog"thatI can't
find.Re yesterday:  BSW 18tpi = 5/16" dia.,   BSF 18tpi = 7/16" dia.    BA
sizestoo small , largest = .236" dia.,  BSF - .383" dia = 28tpi....so, call
Mossfirst, then M&MCC, sorry I don't know metric...good luck.Ed

from bob@downandacross.com Sat Jan  1 10:10:13 2000

(envelope-
from bob@downandacross.com)

Subject: Re: Drip tubes

boundary="=====================_808399==_.ALT"

--=====================_808399==_.ALT

Good question. haven't done enough sections too notice. ANyone fathom
aguess?Bob

At 02:55 PM 12/31/99 -0500, you wrote:It seems that covering the valve in
solvent is solely to keep it clean and functional.  This would indicate that the
valve is open during this time.  What is the effect of the solvent fumes on
the newly finished rod section?-----Original Message-----From: bob
mauluccibob@downandacross.com>

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu>Date: Friday, December 31, 1999 1:39
PMSubject: Re: Drip tubes

I fill a coffee can with mineral spirits and come up 
from under the valve to cover the opening. Yes, you got it. (This is in Darryl's
old posts)I also wonder about leaving the blank in the tube while the varnish
warmed. Would that work? I was afraid it might get too thick. Guys?Bob

At 11:47 AM 12/31/99 -0600, you wrote:

Once again a very helpful thread, you guys are excellent. One question --I'm
not clear on what you mean by "propping the solvent upwards
fromthebottom." Do you mean keeping the level of solvent just high enough
tocoverthe valve outlet, but not high enough to force solvent up into the
tubewhere it might touch the blank?

Also, since I too have little headroom (some would say that's true of
mypersonality but I'm referring here to my workshop) I wonder if I
couldn'tjust hang the blank in the tube, pour in the varnish, let it sit for an
houror two to warm, and then drain it. Any thoughts on doing it this way?

Barry

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Friday, December 31, 1999 9:55 AM

Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Drip Tube

HI Ed:Here's the setup I currently have been trying. I notched out a corner
ofmybench (near a leg) and I clamped a 5' section of tube there, with
enoughclearance for a container on the bottom to catch the varnish or
mineralspirits when they run through. The valve is a nice copper one with
alargelever. It has a ball style insert inside that allows the varnish to
passthrough. The ribbon heater is 12" in length and is wrapped evenly
aroundthetube and plugs in to warm the tube up when there is varnish in it.
Fillwithvarnish. It takes about a quart, I guess. I thin it very little, but
thisdoes seem to help. I guess I used about 10:1 with good results.
Afterabout2 hrs or more, I have to drain the varnish out so I can tilt the
tube andput the section in. (you may not have to do this if you have
headroom.) Iuse a small Pony clamp and a string. The clamp fits right into
the tubesmouth. BE careful for the displacement of the varnish when
youcompletelylower the blank in. I wrap the top end of the outer tube with a
towel. Iputthe warm varnish back in and let it sit a bit. Then I open the valve
for avery slow drain, and I watch it because the rate will change. I
don'tthinkyou need to be exact as long as it is very very slow and consistent.
I alsohang the butt sections downwards and that seems to keep sags away.
Icoverthe top end with a clean dust free rag. When done all dripping
out,Takesabout 1/2 an hour @60" at 2" per minute) I submerge the valve in
mineralspirits by replacing the varnish can and propping the solvent
upwardsfromthe bottom. (MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT FILL THE TUBE WITH
MINERALSPIRITS!) ThenI leave the whole thing to dry without touching it for
12-24 hours. Ileavethe heater on for most of this time. When dry, I hang in
my closet andfollow the preparation steps for the next coat.Please note,
that I extracted all these ideas 
from Darrly H and theheater

from Art Port's private e-mails to me. All Sir D's post are in
thearchivesunder "drip tube." I think they begin at about 1995.Good luck. If it
is easy enough for me, anyone can figure a way out tovarnish.Bob

At 10:32 AM 12/31/99 -0500, you wrote:

Bob:Jeez, this sounds like something that maybe even I could make and
learnhowto use!You've given a lot of detail, but I'll need more.  Has this
assembly and itsuse been described anywhere more fully?  If so,
where?Thanks.Ed-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci 

Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Friday, December 31, 1999 9:52
AMSubject: RE: Wipe on finishes

Hi Jerry,As far as the drip tube setup goes, I would try it. I spent about an
hourgathering the materials and setting it up. It works great, and I
amvirtually dust free in the midst of a basement where I sand in mysplices

coupler 
from the 1" PVC to the 3/4 valve ($.99) and some PVCglue/bondingstuff
($2). I then bought a pipe ribbon heater ($20) and I was ready togo.This setup
works great. I let the heater run for a couple hours to warmthevarnish. I set
the drip for as slow as I can manage, and it does not sag.Ileave it in the tube
for a day until it dries. Self contained and easy touse with a room that has
lttle overhead. I fill a can with thinner andpropit up under the setup to keep
the drain clean while this dries. (By theway, the whole setup is Darryl's idea.
The heater is Art's idea. Thanksguys!)WIpe on your Tung OIl to finish, and
then dip later. The best of bothworlds.Best regards,

Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY
14216716.836.8297 Vox716.867.0523 Cell716.836.2229
Faxbob@downandacross.com

Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.comBuffalo, NY --
=====================_808399==_.ALT

Good question. haven't done enough sections too notice. ANyone fathom
aguess?Bob

At 02:55 PM 12/31/99 -0500, you wrote:It seems that covering the valve

effect of the solvent fumes on the newly finished rodsection?-----
OriginalMessage-----

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

Date: Friday, December 31, 1999 1:39 PMSubject: Re: Drip tubes

I fill a coffee can with mineral spirits and come up 
from underthe valve to cover the opening. Yes, you got it. (This is in Darryl's
oldposts) I also wonder about leaving the blank in the tube while the
varnishwarmed. Would that work? I was afraid it might get too thick.
Guys?Bob

At 11:47 AM 12/31/99 -0600, you wrote:

Once again a very helpful thread, you guys are excellent. One question--I'm
not clear on what you mean by "propping the solvent
upwardsfromthebottom." Do you mean keeping the level of solvent just
high enoughto coverthe valve outlet, but not high enough to force solvent up
into thetubewhere it might touch the blank?

Also, since I too have little headroom (some would say that's true
ofmypersonality but I'm referring here to my workshop) I wonder if
Icouldn'tjust hang the blank in the tube, pour in the varnish, let it sit for
anhouror two to warm, and then drain it. Any thoughts on doing it thisway?

Barry

-----Original Message-----

]

Subject: Re: Drip Tube

HI Ed:Here's the setup I currently have been trying. I notched out a corner
ofmybench (near a leg) and I clamped a 5' section of tube there,
withenoughclearance for a container on the bottom to catch the varnish
ormineralspirits when they run through. The valve is a nice copper one with
alargelever. It has a ball style insert inside that allows the varnish
topassthrough. The ribbon heater is 12" in length and is wrapped
evenlyaround thetube and plugs in to warm the tube up when there is varnish
in it. Fillwithvarnish. It takes about a quart, I guess. I thin it very little,
butthisdoes seem to help. I guess I used about 10:1 with good results.
Afterabout2 hrs or more, I have to drain the varnish out so I can tilt the
tubeandput the section in. (you may not have to do this if you have
headroom.)Iuse a small Pony clamp and a string. The clamp fits right into
thetubesmouth. BE careful for the displacement of the varnish when
youcompletelylower the blank in. I wrap the top end of the outer tube with a
towel. Iputthe warm varnish back in and let it sit a bit. Then I open the valve
foravery slow drain, and I watch it because the rate will change. I
don'tthinkyou need to be exact as long as it is very very slow and consistent.
Ialsohang the butt sections downwards and that seems to keep sags away.
Icoverthe top end with a clean dust free rag. When done all
drippingout,Takesabout 1/2 an hour @60" at 2" per minute) I
submerge the valvein mineralspirits by replacing the varnish can and propping
the solvent upwardsfromthe bottom. (MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT FILL THE TUBE
WITH MINERALSPIRITS!)ThenI leave the whole thing to dry without touching it
for 12-24 hours. Ileavethe heater on for most of this time. When dry, I hang
in my closetandfollow the preparation steps for the next coat.Please note,
that I extracted all these ideas 
from Darrly H and theheater

from Art Port's private e-mails to me. All Sir D's post are in
thearchivesunder "drip tube." I think they begin at about
1995.Good luck. If it is easy enough for me, anyone can figure a way
outtovarnish.Bob

At 10:32 AM 12/31/99 -0500, you wrote:

Bob:Jeez, this sounds like something that maybe even I could make and
learnhowto use!

and its

Thanks.Ed-----Original Message-----

Subject: RE: Wipe on finishes

hour

am

splices

($10), a

glue/bonding

to go.

warm the

sag. I

easy to

and prop

the

Thanksguys!)

bothworlds.

Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY
14216716.836.8297 Vox716.867.0523 Cell716.836.2229
Faxbob@downandacross.com

Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.comBuffalo, NY

--=====================_808399==_.ALT--

from edriddle@mindspring.com Sat Jan  1 10:22:14 2000

Subject: Re: British Thread

CORRECTION:BSP (NOT BSF) - .383" dia = 28tpi....Ed-----Original Message-----

Subject: Fw: British Thread

from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Jan  1 10:24:31 2000

sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with SMTP id  for

Subject: Happy New Year!

After a small fright, my computer which failed to boot the first time, Ihadto
hit the reset button and after the scandisk routine it booted okay andseems
to be working fine...

Well, any riots in the streets? Water shutdown? I haven't checked to
seeifthe tv works yet. Anybody get a Y2K virus attack?

Happy New Year to all fellow Caneheads out there in cyberspace!

Darrell Leewww.bamboorods.homepage.com

P.S. I've added some fishing reports to my web page and a few
otheradditions. Ciao!

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat Jan  1 10:28:45 2000

RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension
handle repairs

The guy that originally posted the query lives in my city and I happen tohave
2screw cutting lathes in my basement so I can fix him up with
whateverthread hewants ( as long as the pitch is within what my machines
can produce)I know guys on the list try to be helpful, but unless you know for
certainthedia and the pitch of the female thread it is pointless ordering
anything.Thereis also the problem with being able to purchase the correct
diameter rodor tubeto match the thread you want to cut on it.There is
nothing like this list for wasting life on, eh?

nobler wrote:

Travers Tool has so many odd sizes of taps and dies, and at
mostreasonableprices. This is what led me to make them my major tool
supplier severalyears ago. The 9mm - 1.25 pitch metric tap, is under $8, as
an example. Ihave a 9/16" -48 tap and die set, that would be over $100, 
from anyothersupplier, I have found. This was a stock item for Travers, and
the costwasaround $30 !

I use many such weird sizes now in my main business, as before the
costwasjust prohibitive.

BTW if you know the threads per inch, divide this number into 25, and itwill
give you the approximate metric pitch of the thread. There are anumberof
metric sizes, that have a comparable size in inch threads, as  in a 5-40,is a
direct swap out for a metric 3mm - .6 pitch.

GMA----- Original Message -----From: "TERENCE ACKLAND" 

Cc: ; Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 9:12 AMSubject: Re: English Bamboo
Rod - extension handle repairs

Screw threads used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC,
NF,METRIC,where a diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc. 
Connectingthreads can be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses
thatwillbestsuit the application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into
this category and a tap anddiecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games
inhopesofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more expensive
withage)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine
(BSF),BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form
(BA).If, for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help,
trycontacting:  Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw
MillRiverRoad , Elmsford, N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers"
today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in north central North Carolina)-----Original
Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod.Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to gointothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correct direction.Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about 18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

from anglport@con2.com Sat Jan  1 10:46:28 2000

(SMTPD32-5.05) id AECCE10112; Sat, 01 Jan 2000 11:43:56 -0500

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

If so, it may be time for some sort of Heli-coil insertion!Art

At 10:12 AM 01/01/2000 -0500, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:Screw threads
used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC, NF,METRIC,where a
diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc.  Connectingthreads
can be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses thatwillbestsuit
the application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into this category and
a tap anddiecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games inhopes
ofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more expensive withage)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine (BSF),
BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form (BA).If,
for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help, trycontacting: 
Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw MillRiverRoad , Elmsford,
N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers" today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in
north central North Carolina)-----Original Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod. Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to go intothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correct direction. Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about 18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

*Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the sun, but I never have 
been able to make out the numbers.*

from landeens@home.com Sat Jan  1 12:11:10 2000

with SMTP

Subject: 1999 Beginner Report

boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF5440.E42F2BC0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF5440.E42F2BC0

I started building bamboo rods in May 99 and have built 14 so far. Six =of
them were handplaned and the last 8 were done on the Morgan hand =mill. I
built 5 Driggs Specials (7' 2"), 2 Paul Young Para 15 (8'), 1 =Sir D (7'), 1 AJ
Thramer 8' DX, 2 Farlows (6' 2"), 1 Bogart Shenendoah =Supreme, 1 Bogart
Yellow Rose and a 6' 10" Leonard 2pc that I converted =to a four pc. Some
general observations 
from a beginner: All of the rods =cast great and I fished with several of
them last summer in Northern =

=I built the last Para 15 nodeless and I think most of my rods 
from now =on will be nodeless. Splitting, straightening and heating is much
easier =and I think it takes less time. Gluing the strips so they come out
=straight has been a little tricky. Some of the strips tend to twist. The
=four pc rod was built totally 
from scrap 
from several different culms =and it turned out great. It casts 60-70 ft
without a problem and it is =very accurate. I plan on continuing building rods 
from scrap for family =gifts. The one thing I have learned is that there are
several different =ways to build a bamboo rod and we all have to come up
with doing what is=more comfortable for us. Many of the well meaning
statements in many of=the books about what to do and not do are simply not
true and many times=are based soley on opinion.

I have appreciated all the info 
from everyone on this board. It is one =of the few hobbies where everyone
seems to have no reservations about =giving tips and advice. My son home 
from college this week started =building his first rod and hopefully it will be
done by August when we =fish the Wind Rivers in Wyo for a week. Have a
good year everyone.

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF5440.E42F2BC0

I started building bamboo rods in May 99 and have =

far. Six of them were handplaned and the last 8 were done on the Morgan =

mill. I built 5 Driggs Specials (7' 2"), 2 Paul Young Para 15 (8'), 1 =

(7'), 1 AJ Thramer 8' DX, 2 Farlows (6' 2"), 1 Bogart Shenendoah =

Bogart Yellow Rose and a 6' 10" Leonard 2pc that I converted to a four =

general observations 
from a beginner: All of the rods cast great =

fished with several of them last summer in Northern Idaho for cutthroat. =

reccommend all of them without reservation. I built the last Para 15 =

straightening and heating is much easier and I think it takes less time. =

the strips so they come out straight has been a little tricky. Some of =

strips tend to twist. The four pc rod was built totally 
from scrap 
from =

different culms and it turned out great. It casts 60-70 ft without a =

it is very accurate. I plan on continuing building rods 
from scrap for =

gifts. The one thing I have learned is that there are several different =

comfortable for us. Many of the well meaning statements in many of the =

about what to do and not do are simply not true and many times are based=

on opinion.

I have appreciated all the info 
from everyone on =

It is one of the few hobbies where everyone seems to have no =

giving tips and advice. My son home 
from college this week started =

first rod and hopefully it will be done by August when we fish the Wind =

in Wyo for a week. Have a good yeareveryone.

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF5440.E42F2BC0--

from jfreeman@cyberport.com Sat Jan  1 12:17:08 2000

Subject: Drip Tube Seal

boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0017_01BF5449.A8E096E0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BF5449.A8E096E0

While we're on the subject of drip tubes, here's a trick, and I can't
=remember where I picked it up, but it seems to work well. When you're
=going to leave the varnish in the tube for some time, take plastic wrap =and
ease it down inside the tube and over the varnish. Take a =screwdriver et. al.
and smooth it out around the tube and on the varnish =surface, and then
screw your cap in while holding the extra wrap in =place on the outside of the
tube. Takes all of the air out above the =varnish. I've been putting a strong
rubber band around the wrap, but I =

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BF5449.A8E096E0

While we're on the subject of drip =

trick, and I can't remember where I picked it up, but it seems to work =

When you're going to leave the varnish in the tube for some time, take =

wrap and ease it down inside the tube and over the varnish. Take a =

et. al. and smooth it out around the tube and on the varnish surface, =

screw your cap in while holding the extra wrap in place on the outside =

tube. Takes all of the air out above the varnish. I've been putting a =

Where or whomever I got this from, =

Jim 

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BF5449.A8E096E0--

from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Jan  1 12:42:43 2000

Subject: Re: Agate guides

That is a very good way to do it visually, and should work every time.One
other way is Agatine is really glass with a hardness of 5 on theMohs scale.
Real agate is microcrystalline quartz with a hardnessof 7. A knife blade,
hardness 5, will scratch glass but not agate.

Which brings up why real agate is desirable over agatine. Dirt or sandsticking
to your flyline and being dragged through the stripping guidewill wear agatine
faster than real agate.

Somebody should make synthetic ruby stripping guides, hardnessof
9.....Darryl

Without consulting a gemologist - the color or should I say the cloudyor
mottled color of Agate versus the clear uniform color Agatine is usually the
giveaway. Agatine issynthetic and is clear and uniform - Agate is a
naturalstone and usually has "Character" to it.

Chris

--Original Message Text---From: noblerDate: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 15:32:37 -
0600

Is there a way to tell if a guide is the real thing, as in agate, as opposed to
the "Agatine", or other guides of this type. I have a number of guides 
from old rods made, when such guides were common, but have no way to tell
what isthe real thing.

GMA

from can@telusplanet.net Sat Jan  1 12:44:32 2000

telusplanet.net") by smtp2.telusplanet.net with ESMTP

Subject: Dickerson/Payne

Anybody built/cast Dickerson 7613 or Payne 101, any comments on
actionetc.??CheersCraig

from martinjensen@home.com Sat Jan  1 14:38:27 2000

(InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP

;Sat, 1 Jan 2000 12:38:24 -0800

Subject: RE: Drip Tube Seal

boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5454.D0C1A180"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5454.D0C1A180

I bought a can of compressed inert gas at a wood workers store. I think itis
Nitrogen or something like that. Anyway, it is heavier than air and youspray
some in the top of the tube and it displaces the air inside and thenyou cap it.
I kept varnish in a tube for 2 years, opened it up and dipped acouple of rods
no problem. I did have to scrape a few dried chunks ofvarnish off the inside
of the tube but the dipping went just fine.-----Original Message-----From:
owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

FreemanSent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 9:17 AM

Subject: Drip Tube Seal

While we're on the subject of drip tubes, here's a trick, and I can'tremember
where I picked it up, but it seems to work well. When you'regoingto leave the
varnish in the tube for some time, take plastic wrap and easeit down inside
the tube and over the varnish. Take a screwdriver et. al. andsmooth it out
around the tube and on the varnish surface, and then screwyour cap in while
holding the extra wrap in place on the outside of thetube. Takes all of the air
out above the varnish. I've been putting a strongrubber band around the
wrap, but I don't know if that really helps.

Where or whomever I got this from, thanks.

Jim

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5454.D0C1A180

bought a can of compressed inert gas at a wood workers store. I think it =

Nitrogen or something like that. Anyway, it is heavier than air and you =

some in the top of the tube and it displaces the air inside and then you =

rods no problem. I did have to scrape a few dried chunks of varnish off =

inside of the tube but the dipping went just fine.

& =

SealWhile we're on the subject of drip =

a trick, and I can't remember where I picked it up, but it seems to =

When you're going to leave the varnish in the tube for some time, take =

wrap and ease it down inside the tube and over the varnish. Take a =

et. al. and smooth it out around the tube and on the varnish surface, =

screw your cap in while holding the extra wrap in place on the outside =

tube. Takes all of the air out above the varnish. I've been putting a =

Where or whomever I got this from, =

Jim =

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5454.D0C1A180--

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat Jan  1 16:48:39 2000

Subject: beveller

After promising myself never to hand plane another rod, it has taken me2
years to get a beveller up and running that really works for me. Thatis the
ability to produce 2 rods 
from 1 culm.I had seen the Dickerson beveller and it did not look very
promising asit was designed and I decided to build something better. I built
severalprototypes and wasted a lot of cane, which is a problem with
bevellers,they waste cane.I concentrated on building a machine that would
cut a complete tipsection to the smallest size i.e.. .032, I would then at least
have theconfidence that the last 6ins of strip being tapered will
notdisintegrate on the last cut!After several attempts with different cutter
geometries and clampingarrangements I finally produced a 4ft strip of .032 
from flat to apex.I stuck the strip in a tube and mailed it off to Uncle
George. It was alittle bit of a wind up because I knew he was struggling in real
termsand he was doing with his mouth what I had wanted to do with product.
Itwas fun, he called me a couple of times but I was "out".A week later I
adjusted my machine and produced a second 4ft strip, thistime of .025 
from apex to flat which I sent to Len Codella because being

from Leonard and T&T, he knows the business and he wants some
morerods.He put an indicator over the length of the strip and found a
deviationof only .0005 over just one node!Over the last couple of weeks I
have machined up 6 blanks (108) finishedto size strips that are far more
accurate than I could ever have handplaned them and I had  zero percent
scrap.I am back in business and after Uncle George's ass.Do not ask me for
details of my machine, it has cost me a lot of moneyand if you are just an
amateur builder it would be more than you wouldneed and if you are a
professional  maker you would be in directcompetition with me and well.... I
am not looking to get a thread going or want any comments, it is justa
statement of what I am up to and where I am going.I feel very excited the
way cane is being accepted by mainstream flyfishermen and I predict good
sales for all us makers, provided we canproduce the goods.A happy and
prosperous new year, T. Ackland

from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Jan  1 17:21:27 2000

Sat, 1 Jan 2000 15:21:19 -0800

Subject: Re: rod tube findings

Bob, and others --When you use one of these tubes with lined compartments,
do youforegoa rod bag?  Or does the bag just keep the rod sections 
from bangingagainsteach other.

Just wondering --Harry

bob maulucci wrote:

A short while back I mentioned that I ordered some Cordura tubes
withlinedcompartments. They turned out great. I also got special lengths, 
evencustom embroidered at $3 extra. I have no interest other than giving
youall a  nice option for tubes. The 4 I ordered came out great, sturdy,
nicelooking, and personalized. I think I will use them 
from now on. Here istheir
site:http://www.redcedarmfg.com/Straight.htmHope this doesn't violate any
protocol,

Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.comBuffalo, NY

from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Jan  1 17:33:41 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Sat, 1 Jan 2000 17:24:48 -0600

Subject: Re: beveller

Congratulations, for you have accomplished a fine engineering feat ! I canjust
imagine the amount of hours involved !

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: beveller

After promising myself never to hand plane another rod, it has taken me2
years to get a beveller up and running that really works for me. Thatis the
ability to produce 2 rods 
from 1 culm.I had seen the Dickerson beveller and it did not look very
promising asit was designed and I decided to build something better. I built
severalprototypes and wasted a lot of cane, which is a problem with
bevellers,they waste cane.I concentrated on building a machine that would
cut a complete tipsection to the smallest size i.e.. .032, I would then at least
have theconfidence that the last 6ins of strip being tapered will
notdisintegrate on the last cut!After several attempts with different cutter
geometries and clampingarrangements I finally produced a 4ft strip of .032 
from flat to apex.I stuck the strip in a tube and mailed it off to Uncle
George. It was alittle bit of a wind up because I knew he was struggling in real
termsand he was doing with his mouth what I had wanted to do with product.
Itwas fun, he called me a couple of times but I was "out".A week later I
adjusted my machine and produced a second 4ft strip, thistime of .025 
from apex to flat which I sent to Len Codella because being

from Leonard and T&T, he knows the business and he wants some
morerods.He put an indicator over the length of the strip and found a
deviationof only .0005 over just one node!Over the last couple of weeks I
have machined up 6 blanks (108) finishedto size strips that are far more
accurate than I could ever have handplaned them and I had  zero percent
scrap.I am back in business and after Uncle George's ass.Do not ask me for
details of my machine, it has cost me a lot of moneyand if you are just an
amateur builder it would be more than you wouldneed and if you are a
professional  maker you would be in directcompetition with me and well....I am
not looking to get a thread going or want any comments, it is justa
statement of what I am up to and where I am going.I feel very excited the
way cane is being accepted by mainstream flyfishermen and I predict good
sales for all us makers, provided we canproduce the goods.A happy and
prosperous new year, T. Ackland

from cadams46@juno.com Sat Jan  1 18:05:31 2000

19:04:52 EST

Subject: Lie-Neilsen

I went to the Lie-Neilsen site and am impressed with the looks of theirplanes, 
I use a stanley now.  Which is the perferable plane the Standardor Low angle? 
ThanksC.R. Adams

from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Jan  1 18:33:14 2000

(SMTPD32-5.05) id AE0C5AFF0116; Sat, 01 Jan 2000 19:38:36 -0500

Subject: Re: beveller

Terry,Congratulations and may you continue as you are going. It will
bewonderful to know that there is someone out there producing cane rods
ataprofit.I'm finally working on a beveler and hope to have all my parts
shortly.I'll be using saws rather than a mill. But, at no time do I ever hope,
orwish, to make a living 
from cane. This is fun... I can "work" at otherthings.Best regards,Reed

TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:

After promising myself never to hand plane another rod, it has taken me2
years to get a beveller up and running that really works for me. Thatis the
ability to produce 2 rods 
from 1 culm.I had seen the Dickerson beveller and it did not look very
promising asit was designed and I decided to build something better. I built
severalprototypes and wasted a lot of cane, which is a problem with
bevellers,they waste cane.I concentrated on building a machine that would
cut a complete tipsection to the smallest size i.e.. .032, I would then at least
have theconfidence that the last 6ins of strip being tapered will
notdisintegrate on the last cut!After several attempts with different cutter
geometries and clampingarrangements I finally produced a 4ft strip of .032 
from flat to apex.I stuck the strip in a tube and mailed it off to Uncle
George. It was alittle bit of a wind up because I knew he was struggling in real
termsand he was doing with his mouth what I had wanted to do with product.
Itwas fun, he called me a couple of times but I was "out".A week later I
adjusted my machine and produced a second 4ft strip, thistime of .025 
from apex to flat which I sent to Len Codella because being

from Leonard and T&T, he knows the business and he wants some
morerods.He put an indicator over the length of the strip and found a
deviationof only .0005 over just one node!Over the last couple of weeks I
have machined up 6 blanks (108) finishedto size strips that are far more
accurate than I could ever have handplaned them and I had  zero percent
scrap.I am back in business and after Uncle George's ass.Do not ask me for
details of my machine, it has cost me a lot of moneyand if you are just an
amateur builder it would be more than you wouldneed and if you are a
professional  maker you would be in directcompetition with me and well....I am
not looking to get a thread going or want any comments, it is justa
statement of what I am up to and where I am going.I feel very excited the
way cane is being accepted by mainstream flyfishermen and I predict good
sales for all us makers, provided we canproduce the goods.A happy and
prosperous new year, T. Ackland

from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sat Jan  1 18:45:21 2000

Subject: Re: Drip tubes

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

Art,   I've been whipping the blank out of the dip tube as fast as I can andI'm
getting pretty good finishes that way.The drip dip tube method I tried worked
fairly well but if I left the sticks in the 6"  tube to dry I found the varnish thin
or non existent on the bottom 6". I haven't figured out why that occurred so
I've gone back to the snatch 'em out method.Best regards,Hank.

from anglport@con2.com Sat Jan  1 19:10:29 2000

(SMTPD32-5.05) id A54E737002C; Sat, 01 Jan 2000 20:09:34 -0500

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

Subject: Re: Drip tubes

Hank,If I recall correctly, I had the same sort of problem with the whip'emout
method. If I left them hangig butt-end down, I got tears where thevarnish
lost enough surface tension (I presumed) to cover the area that itwas
running down; and if I left them tip-end down, the tips got so muchvarnish
deposited on them that they felt almost round.With the withdrawal
contraption, the surface tension seems to leveloutthat problem so that they
seem to dry with a uniform coating. There AREdop-marks on the bottom of
my drying cabinet, but there's no noticeabledifferential in the thickness as
you go down the section. It's probablysomething entirely different than I'm
latching onto, but whatever works,eh? The other strange part is that I don't
stop at the guides and don't getdrips 
from that. It's probably some serendipitous thinning of the varnishover time
and I don't EVER want to change what's in that tank! It's been inthere over a
dozen years now and "keeps on ticking".I went out this year and bought a
section of the next smaller size ofPVCand figured how much I'd need to drop
into the tank to raise the levelenough so that I could dip an 8 fter. THAT took
some ideating -- how toraise the top without filling up the bottom with
something like marbles,but it worked like a charm. Never thought I'd ever
have to do somethinglike that with nesting sections of pipe but nothing
succeeds like dumbluck! If I hadn't gone with the PVC I probably couldn't have
used thatmethod to do it!Art

At 07:43 PM 01/01/2000 EST, FISHWOOL@aol.com wrote:Art,I've been
whipping the blank out of the dip tube as fast as I can and I'm getting pretty
good finishes that way.The drip dip tube method I tried worked fairly well but
if I left the sticks in the 6"  tube to dry I found the varnish thin or non
existent onthe bottom 6". I haven't figured out why that occurred so I've
gone back to the snatch 'em out method.Best regards,Hank.

*Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the sun, but I never have 
been able to make out the numbers.*

from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Jan  2 04:05:08 2000

Subject: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be getting
itup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus then triesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediately andsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site. 

/*************************************************************************/AV Young 

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sun Jan  2 04:27:03 2000

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 10:25:31 GMT

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

Coming in late in the day as I stayed off over the new year but this
soundslike a 3/8" UNF which is the standard thread size for all the buttons
rodrests etc over here.  In use now and has been all the way back.T-----
Original Message -----

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

If so, it may be time for some sort of Heli-coil insertion!Art

At 10:12 AM 01/01/2000 -0500, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:Screw threads
used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC, NF,METRIC,where a
diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc.Connectingthreads can
be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses thatwillbestsuit the
application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into this category and a
tap anddiecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games
inhopesofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more expensive
withage)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine
(BSF),BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form
(BA).If, for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help,
trycontacting:  Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw
MillRiverRoad , Elmsford, N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers"
today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in north central North Carolina)-----Original
Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod.Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to gointothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correct direction.Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

*Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the sun,but I never have 
been able to make out the numbers.*

from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sun Jan  2 05:41:42 2000

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 11:41:25 GMT

,

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs - WRONG INFO

WHOA!  HOLD IT!The information below is incorrect - this is what comes of
engagingfingersbefore brains! I meant BSF not UNF.

The thread I was thinking of is a 3/8"-20 BSF  55Deg  (British
StandardFine).It's characteristics are as follows:-OD                           
.3750Core(Root)                .3110Pitch                           .0500Depth                        
.0320Radius                        .0069Effective Diameter      .3430T.P.I                           
20These are specification characteristics and are not my
measurementsDoes the rod have a button on the end of the handle and if so
is it the samethread?Sorry for the disinformation earlier.If you cannot get a
tap and Terry's lathes can't help you out (which I wouldhave thought they
could) let me know and I'll send you a 1st and 3rd tap

----- Original Message -----

Subject: Re: English Bamboo Rod - extension handle repairs

Coming in late in the day as I stayed off over the new year but thissoundslike
a 3/8" UNF which is the standard thread size for all the buttons rodrests etc
over here.  In use now and has been all the way back.T----- Original Message --
---From: Art Port 

Cc: ; Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 4:45 PMSubject: Re: English Bamboo
Rod - extension handle repairs

If so, it may be time for some sort of Heli-coil insertion!Art

At 10:12 AM 01/01/2000 -0500, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:Screw threads
used as fasteners are standardized,  such as NC, NF,METRIC,where a
diameter matches the pitch., e.g. 1/4-20, 3/8-16 etc.Connectingthreads can
be whatever pitch and diameter the designer chooses thatwillbestsuit the
application.A fishing rod extension butt would fall into this category and a
tapanddiecould well have to be special order.

Ed Riddle wrote:

David et. al. contributors to this thread:

I will endeavor to check my paper files tomorrow between games
inhopesofbeing helpful rather than cute: (Still, M.G.'s get more
expensivewithage)

The Brits, in addition to providing affordable export (to USA)
sportycars;a.k.a., "cheap", had a myriad of threaded fittings during that
era.British Standard Whitworth (BSW), British Standard Fine
(BSF),BritishStandard Pipe Tapered (BSPT) and British Association Form
(BA).If, for whatever reason I don't get back to you or can't help,
trycontacting:  Metric & Multistandard Components Corp., 198 Saw
MillRiverRoad , Elmsford, N. Y. 10523.A lotta good stuff on "Rodmakers"
today.  Happy New Year!!Ed (in north central North Carolina)-----Original
Message-----From: McFall David 

Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:21 PMSubject: English Bamboo Rod -
extension handle repairs

I am trying to repair an extension handle for an English Bamboo rod.Inorder
to do this I will have to make a stud which is threaded to gointothe rod
handle.  I do not have any English thread cutting dies andhopefully some one
on the list can steer me in the correctdirection.Thethread o.d. is 0.352"
(approx) and the thread pitch looks like about18tpi.

Please reply directly to dmcfall@odyssee.net

Many thanks and Season Greetings

Dave M

*Some people can tell what time it is by looking at the sun,but I never have 
been able to make out the numbers.*

from seanmcs@ar.com.au Sun Jan  2 05:45:03 2000

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 22:43:17 +1100

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony: This is too tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Jan  2 05:58:09 2000

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 19:59:20 +0800

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

OK, OK, but look at all the fun you're missing. :-)

Tony

At 10:44 PM 1/2/00 +1100, Sean McSharry wrote:Tony: This is too
tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young 

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from saltwein@swbell.net Sun Jan  2 07:32:56 2000

(Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with ESMTP id  for

Subject: Re: Dickerson/Payne

Craig,

I cast a Payne 101 at SRG II, and it is definitely on my to build list.Which
seems to be getting longer, while the done list is in stasis.

Regards, SteveIndependence, MO

Craig Naldrett wrote:

Anybody built/cast Dickerson 7613 or Payne 101, any comments
onactionetc.??CheersCraig

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sun Jan  2 08:27:13 2000

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony,has not the y2k "problem" been the biggest hoax of the lot? I has
costBillions tofix bugger all!It  proves just how much  computery  bullshitters
control the world. OrsonWellswould have enjoyed it.

Terry

Tony Young wrote:

OK, OK, but look at all the fun you're missing. :-)

Tony

At 10:44 PM 1/2/00 +1100, Sean McSharry wrote:Tony: This is too
tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll begetting
itup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year.Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic ofa Y2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Jan  2 08:55:28 2000

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 22:56:21 +0800

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Rodmakers 

On the face of it that seems the only conclusion. Nothing much *seems*
tohave gone wrong but there was a lot done in the preparation. Still,
thatwould imply everybody did what was supposed to be done by way
ofpreventionand that's something that is unlikely to have ever taken place
beforewhichbrings us back to your original comment. I know for certain
wrong dateswill cause all sorts of problems in accounting packages and any
programthat can't decide what to do when unexpected dates are thrown up
due tosloppy or short sighted error trapping in the coding will error and
thatcan cause unexpected problems.George Orwell sure knew his stuff but
considering just how much theecomomys of the world have benefited 
from all this hoo ha I wonder justwhowas hoaxing who though I don't believe it
was as much a hoax assomethingthat grabbed the imagination of millions of
people in a way that's hardlyever been seen before. Catastrophists (is that a
word?) were fearing theworst and iconoclasts were looking forward to it.  
The wash up of it all will be more interesting than the lead up. The
humanbehaviorists will be writing about this for years.

Tony

At 09:30 AM 1/2/00 -0500, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:Tony,has not the y2k
"problem" been the biggest hoax of the lot? I has costBillions tofix bugger
all!It  proves just how much  computery  bullshitters control the
world.OrsonWellswould have enjoyed it.

Terry

Tony Young wrote:

OK, OK, but look at all the fun you're missing. :-)

Tony

At 10:44 PM 1/2/00 +1100, Sean McSharry wrote:Tony: This is too
tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problemsIlookedat
a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problemsandfoundthis
which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't hoaxes and they
may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up toyou todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim
Balderston,withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll
begetting itup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year.Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic ofa Y2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virusimmediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young 

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sun Jan  2 09:12:30 2000

Subject: Re: beveller

Reed,I do at present work at "other things" and cane is a hobby that has
grownoutof hand .

anenigmatic dream that has kept my waning interest in rodmaking alive.I am
not talking about mass production, but rather a way of producingconsistently
good rods that are "engineered" rather than "crafted"and withtheease and
reliability that machinery offers.I would never have given up my day job to
wield a plane, that would havebeensuicide, but with mechanized equipment the
opportunity is perhaps there.I just intend to work hard building rods spare
time and see where it getsme. Ihave not built a rod in 2 years so I am not
sure if my offerings will beaccepted, especially now there are so many guys
out there makingshavings!Regards, Terry

reed curry wrote:

Terry,Congratulations and may you continue as you are going. It will
bewonderful to know that there is someone out there producing cane rodsat
aprofit.I'm finally working on a beveler and hope to have all my parts
shortly.I'll be using saws rather than a mill. But, at no time do I ever hope,
orwish, to make a living 
from cane. This is fun... I can "work" at otherthings.Best regards,Reed

TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:

After promising myself never to hand plane another rod, it has takenme2
years to get a beveller up and running that really works for me. Thatis the
ability to produce 2 rods 
from 1 culm.I had seen the Dickerson beveller and it did not look very
promising asit was designed and I decided to build something better. I built
severalprototypes and wasted a lot of cane, which is a problem with
bevellers,they waste cane.I concentrated on building a machine that would
cut a complete tipsection to the smallest size i.e.. .032, I would then at least
have theconfidence that the last 6ins of strip being tapered will
notdisintegrate on the last cut!After several attempts with different cutter
geometries and clampingarrangements I finally produced a 4ft strip of .032 
from flat to apex.I stuck the strip in a tube and mailed it off to Uncle
George. It was alittle bit of a wind up because I knew he was struggling in real
termsand he was doing with his mouth what I had wanted to do with
product.Itwas fun, he called me a couple of times but I was "out".A week
later I adjusted my machine and produced a second 4ft strip,thistime of .025 
from apex to flat which I sent to Len Codella becausebeing

from Leonard and T&T, he knows the business and he wants some
morerods.He put an indicator over the length of the strip and found a
deviationof only .0005 over just one node!Over the last couple of weeks I
have machined up 6 blanks (108)finishedto size strips that are far more
accurate than I could ever have handplaned them and I had  zero percent
scrap.I am back in business and after Uncle George's ass.Do not ask me for
details of my machine, it has cost me a lot of moneyand if you are just an
amateur builder it would be more than you wouldneed and if you are a
professional  maker you would be in directcompetition with me and well....I am
not looking to get a thread going or want any comments, it is justa
statement of what I am up to and where I am going.I feel very excited the
way cane is being accepted by mainstream flyfishermen and I predict good
sales for all us makers, provided we canproduce the goods.A happy and
prosperous new year, T. Ackland

from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Jan  2 09:15:52 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Sun, 2 Jan 2000 09:06:54 -0600

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

I have a friend, who is involved with high security problems in Wa.,D.C.,ala
CIA, etc.. His advice is this. 1.) "Never open an attachment with "exe"behind
it"; 2.) Use MS "Update" in your start menu to fix any virusproblems. It took
less than 15 minutes of download time, 3 differenttimes,and their scan said I
was totally compliant. So far, this has proven to betrue.

After being sent the "Happy 99" virus earlier this year, unknowingly by areal
computer whiz, I followed his instructions, and have never
hadanotherproblem ! The "Happy 99" virus was sent as an "exe" file !

I know so little about how to run these machines, being totally selftaught,I
must depend on such advice.

Right now, I'm trying to find someone who can tell me why a couple on ourlist
can't read all of my messages, until they hit "Reply", and then theycan read
all of the message, by scrolling down ! Weird !

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: y2k.WARNING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare, As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from hexagon@odyssee.net Sun Jan  2 09:31:50 2000

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony,on the first I went down in the basement and switched on the  old 286
oris it386. I use it regularly, and up she went without a problem. I thought of
changingthe date on the boot up to say 1972 on the (eeprom is it?) I never
did.We have been watching this American "y2k expert"  on tv for the last
2yearsspreading doom and gloom. He was on again last night answering
questionsabout"what went wrong". The hilarious part was that they still
introduced himas "y2kexpert"Bullshit is as American as apple pie, and I love
both, Terry

Tony Young wrote:

On the face of it that seems the only conclusion. Nothing much
*seems*tohave gone wrong but there was a lot done in the preparation. Still,
thatwould imply everybody did what was supposed to be done by way
ofpreventionand that's something that is unlikely to have ever taken place
beforewhichbrings us back to your original comment. I know for certain
wrong dateswill cause all sorts of problems in accounting packages and any
programthat can't decide what to do when unexpected dates are thrown up
due tosloppy or short sighted error trapping in the coding will error and
thatcan cause unexpected problems.George Orwell sure knew his stuff but
considering just how much theecomomys of the world have benefited 
from all this hoo ha I wonder justwhowas hoaxing who though I don't believe it
was as much a hoax assomethingthat grabbed the imagination of millions of
people in a way that's hardlyever been seen before. Catastrophists (is that a
word?) were fearing theworst and iconoclasts were looking forward to it.The
wash up of it all will be more interesting than the lead up.
Thehumanbehaviorists will be writing about this for years.

Tony

At 09:30 AM 1/2/00 -0500, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:Tony,has not the y2k
"problem" been the biggest hoax of the lot? I has costBillions tofix bugger
all!It  proves just how much  computery  bullshitters control the
world.OrsonWellswould have enjoyed it.

Terry

Tony Young wrote:

OK, OK, but look at all the fun you're missing. :-)

Tony

At 10:44 PM 1/2/00 +1100, Sean McSharry wrote:Tony: This is too
tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems forproblems Ilookedat
a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problemsandfoundthis
which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't hoaxes and they
may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up toyou todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim
Balderston,withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll
begetting itup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing
asMicrosoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year.Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomaticof a Y2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virusimmediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Jan  2 09:45:06 2000

(SMTPD32-5.05) id A3C65F1B0104; Sun, 02 Jan 2000 10:50:30 -0500

Subject: Re: beveller

Terry,I think I understand your approach and wholeheartedly agree with
thespirit ofit. For example, the difference between Montague, F.E. Thomas,
and Paynewaslargely a matter of "acceptable" quality.-- Montague had many
grades and little up-front QC. Seemingly anypiece ofbamboo was used and the
grades were sorted out after glue-up. Little wasthrownaway. Tapers were
chosen to accomodate the poorest quality cane and toallow powersanding,
hence the extra weight of most Montagues.-- Thomas had three basic grades
(excluding Browntone and Mahogany,which weremodels), and didn't put his
name on the lowest grade. He used good qualitycontrolupfront, probably
threw away a lot of cane, and sorted by grade after theglue-up.-- Payne had
one grade. Good QC upfront saved him time later, but a lotofglued blanks,
representing labour hours, probably fed the furnace.

BUT all three makers used the same basic production machines.
Thedifference isin what rods they wanted to put their name on.Good luck and
keep us advised of developments.Best regards,Reed

TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:

Reed,I do at present work at "other things" and cane is a hobby that has
grownoutof hand .

been anenigmatic dream that has kept my waning interest in rodmaking
alive.I am not talking about mass production, but rather a way of
producingconsistently good rods that are "engineered" rather than
"crafted"andwith theease and reliability that machinery offers.I would never
have given up my day job to wield a plane, that would havebeensuicide, but
with mechanized equipment the opportunity is perhaps there.I just intend to
work hard building rods spare time and see where it getsme. Ihave not built a
rod in 2 years so I am not sure if my offerings will beaccepted, especially
now there are so many guys out there makingshavings!Regards, Terry

reed curry wrote:

Terry,Congratulations and may you continue as you are going. It will
bewonderful to know that there is someone out there producing cane rodsat
aprofit.I'm finally working on a beveler and hope to have all my
partsshortly.I'll be using saws rather than a mill. But, at no time do I ever
hope, orwish, to make a living 
from cane. This is fun... I can "work" at otherthings.Best regards,Reed

TERENCE ACKLAND wrote:

After promising myself never to hand plane another rod, it has takenme2
years to get a beveller up and running that really works for me.Thatis the
ability to produce 2 rods 
from 1 culm.I had seen the Dickerson beveller and it did not look very
promising asit was designed and I decided to build something better. I
builtseveralprototypes and wasted a lot of cane, which is a problem
withbevellers,they waste cane.I concentrated on building a machine that
would cut a complete tipsection to the smallest size i.e.. .032, I would then
at least have theconfidence that the last 6ins of strip being tapered will
notdisintegrate on the last cut!After several attempts with different cutter
geometries andclampingarrangements I finally produced a 4ft strip of .032 
from flat to apex.I stuck the strip in a tube and mailed it off to Uncle
George. It was alittle bit of a wind up because I knew he was struggling in real
termsand he was doing with his mouth what I had wanted to do withproduct.
Itwas fun, he called me a couple of times but I was "out".A week later I
adjusted my machine and produced a second 4ft strip,thistime of .025 
from apex to flat which I sent to Len Codella becausebeing

from Leonard and T&T, he knows the business and he wants somemore
rods.He put an indicator over the length of the strip and found a deviationof
only .0005 over just one node!Over the last couple of weeks I have machined
up 6 blanks (108)finishedto size strips that are far more accurate than I
could ever have handplaned them and I had  zero percent scrap.I am back in
business and after Uncle George's ass.Do not ask me for details of my
machine, it has cost me a lot ofmoneyand if you are just an amateur builder
it would be more than youwouldneed and if you are a professional  maker you
would be in directcompetition with me and well....I am not looking to get a
thread going or want any comments, it isjusta statement of what I am up to
and where I am going.I feel very excited the way cane is being accepted by
mainstream flyfishermen and I predict good sales for all us makers, provided
we canproduce the goods.A happy and prosperous new year, T. Ackland

from sshorb@ipa.net Sun Jan  2 10:17:51 2000

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

It could be called "The Chicken Little Syndrome". It's been used foryears by
just about all special interest groups with varying degrees ofsuccess. The
media usually fills the roll of Chicken Little althoughgovernments do also.
These two groups are somewhat different in thatthey are both special
interest and chicken littles.Have a happy and prosperous new year.Skip

from tonkin@xtn.net Sun Jan  2 10:18:56 2000

Subject: Pratt & Lambert Spar Varnish

Can anyone tell me where to find Pratt & Lambert R10 spar varnish in
theEastern US?

from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Jan  2 10:57:22 2000

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

My wife says we have a y2k glitch here. Says she has not been able to getme
toWORK since New Years Eve.Tony    FlyTyr@southshore.com

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfound

from grandriverangler@sprint.ca Sun Jan  2 12:18:42 2000

Subject: Man of War Varnish

boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5523.7EAC4A60"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5523.7EAC4A60

Thanks in advance.

Mark

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5523.7EAC4A60

Can anyone help me locate asource =

Thanks in advance.

Mark

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5523.7EAC4A60--

from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Jan  2 13:14:47 2000

Subject: Re: Man of War Varnish

In a message dated 01/02/2000 1:27:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
grandriverangler@sprint.ca writes:

Mark,I purchase Man-o-War varnish at the True ValueHardware store.

Dave L

from martinjensen@home.com Sun Jan  2 13:26:02 2000

(InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP

Sun, 2 Jan 2000 11:25:56 -0800

Subject: RE: Pratt & Lambert Spar Varnish

thenearest retail dealer, please contact Pratt & Lambert directly at1-800-
BUY-PRATT (=1-800-289-7728) or FAX them at 1-800-573-2468.

(I got this off the Internet)Martin Jensen

-----Original Message-----

Subject:        Pratt & Lambert Spar Varnish

Can anyone tell me where to find Pratt & Lambert R10 spar varnish in
theEastern US?

from can@telusplanet.net Sun Jan  2 16:38:48 2000

telusplanet.net") by smtp2.telusplanet.net with ESMTP

Subject: Dickerson/Payne Responses

Thanks to those who provided comments on these two rods.CheersCraig

from tonkin@xtn.net Sun Jan  2 18:58:54 2000

forged))

Subject: Thomas & Thomas

Does anyone know what kind of finish did T & T use on their mid 80'srods?

from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Jan  2 23:04:31 2000

sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with SMTP id  for

Subject: FE Thomas Special Streamer Rod Taper

I am selling a FE Thomas Special Streamer Rod on consignment which is
a9'3pc rod and is the one Marty Keane speaks so highly about. Pgs 93-95
inhisbook. Does someone on the list already have the taper of this rod? I
didn'tfind it in the RM Taper Archives. If someone has it already please
speakup,otherwise I'll measure it and post it before it goes to it's new home.
Ifyou want to see pics of it...http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-
cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=229163808

I haven't cast this rod yet, but Marty told me it uses a WF7 or WF8 line.Even
though he wrote so enthusiastically about it in 1976, he sounded justas
enthusiastically  about it today, so it must be a good taper...

HNY!

Darrell

from georgewb@pacbell.net Sun Jan  2 23:31:02 2000

sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with SMTP id  for

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Sean,

What are you getting at?  Has the Apple market gotten so small that
itisn'teven worththe trouble to write viruses for anymore?  ;^)

George

-----Original Message-----

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony: This is too tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV YoungVisit my web site at:  
www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Jan  3 00:00:06 2000

sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with SMTP id  for

Subject: RE: Thomas & Thomas

I only know that they use spar varnish and a dip finish currently.

Darrell Leewww.bamboorods.homepage.com

-----Original Message-----

Subject: Thomas & Thomas

Does anyone know what kind of finish did T & T use on their mid 80'srods?

from martinjensen@home.com Mon Jan  3 00:03:06 2000

(InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP

;Sun, 2 Jan 2000 22:02:55 -0800

Subject: RE: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

It never was. Virus writers like to cover 90% of the market not 10.
Nowwiththe Word and Excel viruses though, a Mac is susceptibleMartin Jensen

-----Original Message-----

Subject:        Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITHRODMAKING

Sean,

What are you getting at?  Has the Apple market gotten so small that
itisn'teven worththe trouble to write viruses for anymore?  ;^)

George

-----Original Message-----

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony: This is too tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year. Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from chris@artistree.com Mon Jan  3 03:04:12 2000

[205.134.245.37] (may beforged))

Subject: Bamboo Fly Rod Video

In case anyone is interested I viewed a video over the holiday's thatcontained
an interview with rodmaker Bob Milward and scenes 
from thelast Corbett Lake gathering. Neat stuff. Beware it also contains
aninterview with the (seemingly less than enthusiastic) CEO of Sage. 

Video is "Casting Shadows: Fly Fishing in British Columbia" I postedcontact
info at http://www.artistree.com/SplitCaneLibrary/  click on the"Videos"
link.

Best Regards,

Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com

from seanmcs@ar.com.au Mon Jan  3 03:50:48 2000

Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:48:24 +1100

Subject: Re: y2k.WARNING  ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

George: two years ago - right... Have you seen the Apple stock pricerecently!
Of course history is so strange - Microsoft owns heaps ofApple. Not aware
that any of them are into cane however.... Anyway mostgrateful that my
setup survived and generally, so far, around the worldit seems fine. Sean

irish-george wrote:

Sean,

What are you getting at?  Has the Apple market gotten so small that
itisn'teven worththe trouble to write viruses for anymore?  ;^)

George

-----Original Message-----From: Sean McSharry 

Cc: Rodmakers Date: Sunday, January 02, 2000 3:49 AMSubject: Re:
y2k.WARNING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH RODMAKING

Tony: This is too tempting. Try an Apple-Mac! Happy New Year.  Sean

Tony Young wrote:

While I was at work this morning checking the systems for problems
Ilookedat a Y2K site just to see if *ANY BODY AT ALL* reported problems
andfoundthis which may be of interest to people on the list.These aren't
hoaxes and they may well appear sooner or later.

The first one is definitely a problem, the second, well it's up to you todecide
for yourself.

Tony

"It's a very high-profile time for virus writers," Jim Balderston,
withMcAfee.com told the Associated Press "On New Year's they'll be
gettingitup on a very big billboard."

Two viruses activate immediately and spread by posing as
Microsoftprogramsthat are suppose to fix Y2K problems or count down to
the new year.Thevirus could make computers display an error message
symptomatic of aY2Kproblem. After users fix the clock system and reboot,
the virus thentriesto erase data.

Another virus infects Windows computers by using Outlook. An e-
mailmessagesays "Here's some pictures for you!" and comes with an
attachment.Runningthe attachment, labeled pics4you.exe, activates the
virus immediatelyandsets Microsoft's Internet Explorer browser to a porn
site.

/*************************************************************************/AV Young

Visit my web site at:   www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html

And this our life, exempt 
from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in
stones, and good in everything.

William Shakespeare,    As You Like It

/*************************************************************************/

from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Jan  3 06:53:26 2000

2000 04:53:16 PST

Subject: Re: Dickerson/Payne

apples and oranges

--- Craig Naldrett  wrote:Anybody built/cast Dickerson 7613 or Payne 101,
anycomments on actionetc.??CheersCraig

====="Gooda' morning mister
bear"__________________________________________________Do
You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.http://messenger.yahoo.com

from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon Jan  3 08:45:46 2000

Subject: Re: Man of War Varnish/P&L

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

List,I don't know if I am just in the right place here in So. Bend but we
haveP&L and Man Of war here.  Ifd you can't find it in your neck of the woods
let me know as I have mailed some varnishes to other guys who cou;ldn't
findwhat they were looking for.Bret

from gjm80301@yahoo.com Mon Jan  3 10:19:24 2000

2000 08:19:20 PST

Subject: Re: Silk

It looks like Kreinik is not the answer to this.  Ijust talked to them and they
don't sell any fine silkexcept in black and white.

If someone has the answer, I am in exactly the samesituation as Bob.

The spool says "KNK" all around the edges of the spooland "100" and "Japan"
on a foil label. This silk holdsit's color more evenly than anything else I
havetried.

Any help would be appreciated.

--- Tony Spezio  wrote:Bob,I believe this is Kreinik in Harpersburg WV.
Checkyour craft store. I use their materials inFlytying. Merry
Christmas.Tony    FlyTyr@southshore.com

Bob Nunley wrote:

Everyone ('cept Harry... he's already seenthis!)    Need help identifiying this
silk Ihave.  It is on a plastic spool, the label (redand gold) on one end says
"Silk Sewing Thread",in small letters near the center of the label,it says
"KNK" then "100" below that.  I assumethat means 100 yds or 100 meters. 
Anyways, onthe other end it KNK around the perimeter of awhite label with
the number 202 stamped onin.    Years ago I bought several spools of this

from someone, and I can't remember who!  It isreally fine diameter and i
would like to havesome more, in Red, Green and White.    Anyonerecognize
this, or use it, or know who carriesit? HELP!!!! Bob

R.L. "Bob"  Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly
Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/canean/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm

__________________________________________________Do You
Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.http://messenger.yahoo.com

from CAIrvinerods@aol.com Mon Jan  3 10:44:00 2000

Subject: KNK

Bob & All

I get my KNK silk thread 
from YLI Corporation, 482 North Freedom BLVD., Provo, Utah 84601. I
bought a good supply a few years ago basicallybecause they don't sell one
spool just lots at once. Don't have a phone number at hand.Hope all are
having a good new year so far, Chuck

from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Jan  3 11:00:26 2000

Subject: Re: KNK

Just sent a message to a friend in Provo to look up the number. Will post
itassoon as I get it.Tony     FlyTyr@southshore.com

CAIrvinerods@aol.com wrote:

Bob & All

I get my KNK silk thread 
from YLI Corporation, 482 North Freedom BLVD.,Provo, Utah 84601. I bought
a good supply a few years ago basicallybecausethey don't sell one spool just
lots at once. Don't have a phone number athand.Hope all are having a good
new year so far, Chuck

from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Jan  3 11:06:02 2000

2000 09:05:59 PST

Subject: Re: KNK

http://www.woolworks.org/stores/ut.html

tony,  maybe this is it?  timothy

--- Tony Spezio  wrote:Just sent a message to a friend in Provo to look upthe
number. Will post it assoon as I get it.Tony     FlyTyr@southshore.com

CAIrvinerods@aol.com wrote:

Bob & All

I get my KNK silk thread 
from YLI Corporation, 482North Freedom BLVD.,Provo, Utah 84601. I bought
a good supply a fewyears ago basically becausethey don't sell one spool just
lots at once. Don'thave a phone number athand.Hope all are having a good
new year so far, Chuck

====="Gooda' morning mister
bear"__________________________________________________Do
You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.http://messenger.yahoo.com

from rmoon@ida.net Mon Jan  3 11:35:35 2000

Subject: Re: Silk

Kreinik has a web page.  I have not looked too deeply, but if you havenot seen
it here is the URL        http://www.kreinik.com/

also see     http://threadexpress.com

Ralph

from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Jan  3 12:16:19 2000

Subject: YLI Address

As of last summer, the address I have for YLI is:

161 West Main StRock Hill, SC  29730PH: (800) 296-8139FX:  (803)985-
3106ylicorp@rhtc.net

--Rich

from gjm80301@yahoo.com Mon Jan  3 12:53:45 2000

2000 10:53:43 PST

Subject: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

Thanks for all of the repsonses.

I have spools of YLI, Tire, Pearsalls, Gudebrod andKinkame and they all seem
to be differnt thread thanthe one spool I have labelled KNK.

The sizes of YLI and the KNK I have appear to be

much.  It has yielded incredibly even color in testswith various finishes (that
is not to say that it doesnot change color, just does it very evenly -
noblotching).

I'll call YLI and quiz them.  When I talked to them afew years ago they were on
the crabby side - I thinkthat they want to stick to wholesale.

Thanks
again.__________________________________________________Do
You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.http://messenger.yahoo.com

from gjm80301@yahoo.com Mon Jan  3 13:04:11 2000

2000 11:04:08 PST

Subject: Just talked to YLI about KNK silk

Thanks for the number for YLI.

The person I talked to said that KNK must be adifferent thread as she was
unfamiliar with it.  Thisperson joined the company few years back when
theymoved 
from Utah to South Carolina (new ownership), sosomeone with more history
there may give a differentanswer.

This lady was very friendly and said that with a bizlicense, you can make
minimum orders of $80 or more
directly.__________________________________________________Do
You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.http://messenger.yahoo.com

from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Jan  3 13:18:03 2000

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

The best place to get YLI 
from that I've found is Pinetree Quiltworks:

http://www.quiltworks.com/store/

They have all the YLI colors in Size 100 (about 3/0) but do not carry the Size
50 YLI.  Instead, they have a brand called Tire in the Size 50, which I've found
to be great stuff, too.  (The Brick Red is a great color for cane rods.)  They
are definitely not crabby! -- great folks to deal with.  Their prices are great,
lower than if you ordered retail 
from YLI or Angler''s Workshop.  (No commercial interest on my part, I've
just had great experiences with them.)  You might ask YLI to send you one of
their color brochures so you could see (roughly) what the colors look like.

--Rich

from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Jan  3 13:41:54 2000

Mon, 3 Jan 2000 11:41:48 -0800

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

Rich,I see several glazed cotton threads listed on this site.  Would
youhappento know which of the glazed cottons they list might be suitable for
use inaGarrison style binder?

Harry

RMargiotta@aol.com wrote:

The best place to get YLI 
from that I've found is Pinetree Quiltworks:

http://www.quiltworks.com/store/

They have all the YLI colors in Size 100 (about 3/0) but do not carry theSize
50 YLI.  Instead, they have a brand called Tire in the Size 50, whichI've found
to be great stuff, too.  (The Brick Red is a great color for canerods.)  They
are definitely not crabby! -- great folks to deal with.  Theirprices are great,
lower than if you ordered retail 
from YLI or Angler''sWorkshop.  (No commercial interest on my part, I've just
had greatexperiences with them.)  You might ask YLI to send you one of their
colorbrochures so you could see (roughly) what the colors look like.

--Rich

from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Jan  3 13:42:25 2000

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

I tried that site before. Comes back as "Object Removed" "Click here"
doesnotwork for me. Does anyone have the new URL.Thanks,Tony   
FlyTyr@southshore.com

RMargiotta@aol.com wrote:

The best place to get YLI 
from that I've found is Pinetree Quiltworks:

http://www.quiltworks.com/store/

They have all the YLI colors in Size 100 (about 3/0) but do not carry theSize
50 YLI.  Instead, they have a brand called Tire in the Size 50, whichI've found
to be great stuff, too.  (The Brick Red is a great color for canerods.)  They
are definitely not crabby! -- great folks to deal with.  Theirprices are great,
lower than if you ordered retail 
from YLI or Angler''sWorkshop.  (No commercial interest on my part, I've just
had greatexperiences with them.)  You might ask YLI to send you one of their
colorbrochures so you could see (roughly) what the colors look like.

--Rich

from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Jan  3 14:28:11 2000

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

The original address I sent works fine for me.  But you might try:

http://www.quiltworks.com/store/default.asp?

Looks similar to the original, so I don't know how it will work for you.

--Rich

from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Jan  3 14:47:15 2000

Subject:  Remove varnish 
from cork

I am considering using "3M's 'Safest Stripper" to remove that
curedvarnishthat's beyond the windcheck and onto the cork grip; you've seen
'em,"dippedtoo deep".  Haven't done this before.  Any pitfalls?Suggestions
for a better way?TIA.Ed

from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Mon Jan  3 18:07:01 2000

Subject: Re: Remove varnish 
from cork

Ed: Did you try to sand it off with fine grit or steel wool?

Joe

from rmoon@ida.net Mon Jan  3 18:16:18 2000

0000

Subject: Re: Remove varnish 
from cork

EdI have never had this happen to me, in fact you are probably the
onlyperson who ever had this misfortune,  but  I have found that wiping
withmineral spirits before the varnish  has time to dry usually does thejob.

Ralph

from bob@downandacross.com Mon Jan  3 18:26:40 2000

(envelope-
from bob@downandacross.com)

Subject: Re: Remove varnish 
from cork

Nope, Ed's not the only one. Add me to the oops list. And Joe P., you don't tell
them anything else I did to that first rod, or I will get ya!Bob Maulucci

At 05:08 PM 1/3/00 -0700, you wrote:EdI have never had this happen to me,
in fact you are probably the onlyperson who ever had this misfortune,  but  I
have found that wiping withmineral spirits before the varnish  has time to
dry usually does thejob.

Ralph

Bob
Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com

from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Jan  3 18:41:54 2000

Subject: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

Thanks to all for the helpful advice.I'm referring to 2 rods that are mine. 
One is a South Bend 7.5' 2/2 #290that has seen little or no use and the
other is a refinished, by someoneelse before my purchase, 8.5' 3/2 Heddon
#17 Black Beauty.I've yet to build a rod, but monitoring this List is giving me
the itch.Regards,Ed-----Original Message-----

Subject: Remove varnish 
from cork

I am considering using "3M's 'Safest Stripper" to remove that
curedvarnishthat's beyond the windcheck and onto the cork grip; you've seen
'em,"dippedtoo deep".  Haven't done this before.  Any pitfalls?Suggestions
for a better way?TIA.Ed

from rmoon@ida.net Mon Jan  3 18:50:28 2000

Subject: Re: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

See Ed  I knew you had never done that nefarious deed.

Ralph  Try sanding with very fine paper

from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Jan  3 18:55:28 2000

Subject: Paul Young "Perfectionist"

Iam looking for info on the Paul Young "Perfectionist" model. I believeit is a
7'6" for a 4 wt line. In particular I want: 1) the taper,original prefered; not
doctored versions2)original guide spacing

3)type and size offerrules4)stress curve5)thread wrap colors
/particulars6)info about the gripand reel seats (original )7)Any and all
pertanantinfo about this rod.It's a long list , but I'm looking for DETAILS!! If
anyone owns or hashad the pleasure of casting one of these let me know
your thoughts onthe rod , If you feel the need to ramble about it you can
even send yourresponse directly to me.Thanks in advance!!Shawn Pineo, New
Scotland Flyrods

nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca

from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Jan  3 19:10:24 2000

Subject: Re: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

Thanks Ralph, I had to clarify,....looks like you the only one, Bob.Ed-----
Original Message-----

Subject: Re: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

See Ed  I knew you had never done that nefarious deed.

Ralph  Try sanding with very fine paper

from bob@downandacross.com Mon Jan  3 19:29:54 2000

(envelope-
from bob@downandacross.com)

Subject: Re: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

Damn! Bob the Bamboo Butcher of Buffalo strikes again!

At 08:07 PM 1/3/00 -0500, you wrote:Thanks Ralph, I had to clarify,....looks
like you the only one, Bob.Ed-----Original Message-----From: Ralph W Moon 

Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 7:56
PMSubject: Re: Fw: Remove varnish 
from cork

See Ed  I knew you had never done that nefarious deed.

Ralph  Try sanding with very fine paper

Bob
Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com

from bob@downandacross.com Mon Jan  3 20:07:30 2000

(envelope-
from bob@downandacross.com)

Subject: Re: Bamboo Fly Rod Video

Hi Chris,Did anyone get a price on that Episode 3 video?Their order online
system was all screwy. And once again, thanks for the great resource you
provide with the site.Bob M.

At 01:03 AM 1/3/00 -0800, you wrote:In case anyone is interested I viewed
a video over the holiday's thatcontained an interview with rodmaker Bob
Milward and scenes 
from thelast Corbett Lake gathering. Neat stuff. Beware it also contains
aninterview with the (seemingly less than enthusiastic) CEO of Sage.

Video is "Casting Shadows: Fly Fishing in British Columbia" I postedcontact
info at http://www.artistree.com/SplitCaneLibrary/  click on the"Videos"
link.

Best Regards,

Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com

Bob
Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com

from channer@outerbounds.net Mon Jan  3 20:09:49 2000

taz.outerbounds.net(Rockliffe SMTPRA 3.4.2) with SMTP id;Mon, 3 Jan 2000
19:09:28 -0700

rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

At 03:26 PM 01/03/2000 EST, RMargiotta@aol.com wrote:The original
address I sent works fine for me.  But you might try:

http://www.quiltworks.com/store/default.asp?

Looks similar to the original, so I don't know how it will work for you.

--Rich

All;the correct url for pinetree quiltworks is pnietreequiltworks.com, I knowit
works because i just ordered some 
from them yesterday. Great thread,great sevice and great prices. I don't
know where to get KNK now, severalyears ago that's what Angler's Workshop
sold, but it isn't the same now.John

from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan  3 20:35:03 2000

with ESMTP id 

Subject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original. The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used for thewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Jan  3 20:50:28 2000

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----

Subject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original. The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used for thewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from chris@artistree.com Mon Jan  3 20:55:08 2000

[205.134.245.51] (may beforged))

Subject: Re: Bamboo Fly Rod Video

I believe it's only available as a two volume set. Volume one has thebamboo
stories. Sorry, I don't know what the price is. You might try thetoll free
number. I see it's going to be rebroadcast sometime this yearand I heard the
lodge(s) that sponsored it might be selling it at theirbooths for the upcoming
spring sportsman shows. 

It's not a bad series on past & present fly fishing in B.C. I noticedthat all the
rod builders at Corbett Lake were just smiling away. Thisis then followed by a
story on graphite rods at Sage. I didn't see anysmiling faces in that story.

Best Regards,Chris Wohlford

bob maulucci wrote:

Hi Chris,Did anyone get a price on that Episode 3 video?Their order online
systemwas all screwy. And once again, thanks for the great resource
youprovidewith the site.Bob M.

from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jan  3 20:55:20 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Mon, 3 Jan 2000 20:46:21 -0600

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

I'd use some other glue that is sandable, which the white glues are not, inthis
instance. I've just re-glued some separated strips with Elmer'sPro-Bond poly
urethane, and so far it is an exceptional product. It's aclear, honey color, and
scrapes nicely after removing the binding twine.

One thing I forgot to mention, is that both the Safest Strip, and
Citristripclean cork grips nicely. Just brush on a coat, wait 10 minutes, and
startwiping it off. With about 3 paper towels, and continuous wiping, the
gripwill just get cleaner the more you wipe/scrub. A light sanding a day
ortwolater, and it's like new again !

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original.The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used for thewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan  3 21:05:28 2000

with ESMTP id ;Tue, 4 Jan 2000 03:04:55 +0000

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original.The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan  3 21:09:58 2000

with ESMTP id ;Tue, 4 Jan 2000 03:09:25 +0000

"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

GMA,

I didn't think of the cork cleaning option.  I'll also try thatpolyurethane glue.  I
was also thinking as I typed about whether or notthere was a better glue for
that since PVA shrinks as it dries.  

Good advice!  

Thanks,

DJH

nobler wrote:

I'd use some other glue that is sandable, which the white glues are not,inthis
instance. I've just re-glued some separated strips with Elmer'sPro-Bond poly
urethane, and so far it is an exceptional product. It's aclear, honey color, and
scrapes nicely after removing the binding twine.

One thing I forgot to mention, is that both the Safest Strip,
andCitristripclean cork grips nicely. Just brush on a coat, wait 10 minutes,
and startwiping it off. With about 3 paper towels, and continuous wiping, the
gripwill just get cleaner the more you wipe/scrub. A light sanding a day
ortwolater, and it's like new again !

GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Dennis Haftel" 

Sent: Friday, January 04, 1980 11:36 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original.The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from channer@outerbounds.net Mon Jan  3 21:11:00 2000

taz.outerbounds.net(Rockliffe SMTPRA 3.4.2) with SMTP idfor;Mon, 3 Jan
2000 20:10:37 -0700

Subject: Re: KNK, YLI and Kreinik

Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 20:09:32 -0700

Sorry everyone, misinformation, I just went to the site, I have itbookmarked,
here it ishttp://www.quiltworks.com/store/dept.asp?dept%5Fid=4000John

from morten@flash.net Mon Jan  3 21:11:53 2000

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Dennis,Cork dust and glue will never look like cork. I have had good
resultsshaping a small piece of cork with a razor blade to fill in the
chippedarea. Make it slightly larger than the void in the handle and match
thedirection of grain and texture to the handle. Add glue and press the
newpiece into the void. Hold in place with tape till the glue has cured.Slice off
excess and smooth with sandpaper.Morten Lovstad

-- 3119 Georgia Pine Dr.Spring, TX 77373(281) 353
5725http://www.flash.net/~morten

from channer@outerbounds.net Mon Jan  3 21:20:22 2000

taz.outerbounds.net(Rockliffe SMTPRA 3.4.2) with SMTP idfor;Mon, 3 Jan
2000 20:19:57 -0700

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

At 10:11 PM 01/04/2000 -0800, Dennis Haftel wrote:GMA,

I didn't think of the cork cleaning option.  I'll also try thatpolyurethane glue.  I
was also thinking as I typed about whether or notthere was a better glue for
that since PVA shrinks as it dries.  

Good advice!  

Thanks,

DJHDennis;Mixing cork dust and glue doesn't work very well unless you use
somethingto lighten it, every glue I have tried winds up making a very dark
patch. Ihave mixed cork dust, water and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler
withsomesuccess, but i think that if the chip was of any size I would just cut
thering off and replace it, no biggie if you are going to refinsih the rodanyway
and only a minor hassle if you are not, just ream the hole to theappropriate
size, then cut the ring in half and glue to the rod then shapeto match.John

from penr0295@bendnet.com Mon Jan  3 21:34:56 2000

TAA00192

Subject: Hardy Palakona 9ft. #E20781

A fellow member of The Central Oregon Fly Fishers group here in Bend
wasasking me if I knew anything about the 3pc. 9ft. Hardy Palakona (2 tips)
heinherited 
from his grandfather (he himself is in his late fifties or early60's, so I expect
the rod could be 
from the early 1900's).  He said that herod had a serial number of E20781
on the butt.  Any information about the

would be appreciated.Thomas Penrose

from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Jan  3 21:46:47 2000

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Dennis,This is strange, isn't it.  I'm looking at a SB 359 right now.  Thewraps
are definitely blue, tipped gold.  So we've got Sinclair's b/w jasper,amedium
green, and my blue tipped gold.  Any other combo's out there?

Harry

Dennis Haftel wrote:

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Subject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago
anduponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not
original.The thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the
ferrulesfit nicely, but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas
wondering what the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on
this thing so I can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the
front "rib" of the cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up
with cork dust and PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting
this thing back into shape? Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just
got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Jan  3 21:51:11 2000

Mon, 3 Jan 2000 19:51:06 -0800

Subject: Re: Hardy Palakona 9ft. #E20781

Thomas,Good to see your name on the list again.

I seem to remember several times in the past, listers have
mentionedthatHardy is very good about giving information on their old rods. 
You mighttrycontacting Hardy directly.  I know they have a website, but I
don't have theurl.  Someone else on this list will probably come up with it.

Harry BoydThomas Penrose wrote:

A fellow member of The Central Oregon Fly Fishers group here in
Bendwasasking me if I knew anything about the 3pc. 9ft. Hardy Palakona (2
tips)heinherited 
from his grandfather (he himself is in his late fifties or early60's, so I expect
the rod could be 
from the early 1900's).  He said that herod had a serial number of E20781
on the butt.  Any information abouttherod (date, line size, approximate value
[assuming condition was

would be appreciated.Thomas Penrose

from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jan  3 21:51:26 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Mon, 3 Jan 2000 21:42:29 -0600

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

I tend to agree. Cork is very compressible, and a good glue joint will
lastpretty well, and another ring or two is really no big deal.

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

At 10:11 PM 01/04/2000 -0800, Dennis Haftel wrote:GMA,

I didn't think of the cork cleaning option.  I'll also try thatpolyurethane glue.  I
was also thinking as I typed about whether or notthere was a better glue for
that since PVA shrinks as it dries.

Good advice!

Thanks,

DJHDennis;Mixing cork dust and glue doesn't work very well unless you
usesomethingto lighten it, every glue I have tried winds up making a very
dark patch.Ihave mixed cork dust, water and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler
withsomesuccess, but i think that if the chip was of any size I would just cut
thering off and replace it, no biggie if you are going to refinsih the rodanyway
and only a minor hassle if you are not, just ream the hole to theappropriate
size, then cut the ring in half and glue to the rod then shapeto match.John

from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Mon Jan  3 21:58:55 2000

Subject: Re: Remove varnish 
from cork

Bob,I have to admit to having a hand in the varnished cork incident.

Joe

from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Jan  3 22:01:31 2000

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Harry:Sure do.  After sending the Sinclair info, I went and drug my 359 out
andbest I can tell, those old dried out threads look Tan.Ed-----Original
Message-----

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Dennis,This is strange, isn't it.  I'm looking at a SB 359 right now.  Thewraps
are definitely blue, tipped gold.  So we've got Sinclair's b/wjasper, amedium
green, and my blue tipped gold.  Any other combo's out there?

Harry

Dennis Haftel wrote:

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago
anduponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not
original.The thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the
ferrulesfit nicely, but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas
wondering what the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on
this thing so I can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the
front "rib" of the cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up
with cork dust and PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting
this thing back into shape?Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just
got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jan  3 22:09:32 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:00:37 -0600

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

I just stripped two, and I can't be sure, as I think they were re-wraps. Onewas
orange, with jasper tipping, and the other just orange.

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Dennis,This is strange, isn't it.  I'm looking at a SB 359 right now.Thewraps
are definitely blue, tipped gold.  So we've got Sinclair's b/wjasper, amedium
green, and my blue tipped gold.  Any other combo's out there?

Harry

Dennis Haftel wrote:

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago
anduponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is
notoriginal.The thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and
theferrulesfit nicely, but the guides don't line up when placed side by side. 
Iwas wondering what the name of the color green is that was
usedforthewraps on this thing so I can restore it to its factory spec. 
There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the cork comfi-cient grip.  I
wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and PVA glue. 
Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back
intoshape?Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from caneman@clnk.com Mon Jan  3 22:13:42 2000

(Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with
SMTP id com; Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:11:30 -0600

"Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Hardy Palakona 9ft. #E20781

Thomas,If I'm reading my chart right, it was manufactured in 1930.

Bob

-----Original Message-----

Subject: Hardy Palakona 9ft. #E20781

A fellow member of The Central Oregon Fly Fishers group here in
Bendwasasking me if I knew anything about the 3pc. 9ft. Hardy Palakona (2
tips)heinherited 
from his grandfather (he himself is in his late fifties or early60's, so I expect
the rod could be 
from the early 1900's).  He said that herod had a serial number of E20781
on the butt.  Any information about therod (date, line size, approximate
value [assuming condition was

would be appreciated.Thomas Penrose

from chris@artistree.com Tue Jan  4 00:46:38 2000

[205.134.244.101] (may beforged))

Subject: Re: Hardy Palakona 9ft. #E20781

Not sure if it's the same model but I have 2 tip 9ft. Hardy Palakona

from 1929. Also, signed The Fairy Rod with a lot of green
intermediates.Ralph Moon felt that it was a lighter rod 
from Hardy. It has Medium toslow action and casts a DT 6 very nicely.--
Regards,

Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com

A fellow member of The Central Oregon Fly Fishers group here in
Bendwasasking me if I knew anything about the 3pc. 9ft. Hardy Palakona (2
tips)heinherited 
from his grandfather (he himself is in his late fifties or early60's, so I expect
the rod could be 
from the early 1900's).  He said thatherod had a serial number of E20781 on
the butt.  Any information abouttherod (date, line size, approximate value
[assuming condition was

would be appreciated.Thomas Penrose

from darrell@rockclimbing.org Tue Jan  4 02:02:58 2000

sims.3.5.1999.09.16.21.57.p8)with SMTP id  for

Subject: RE: South Bend Model 359

I have several 359's, one near mint with all brown wraps... can't find
theothers...

I have a SB with green/black jasper (wish I had some of that thread) toobutit
is a high end Double-built rod. It looks like they changed wrappingcolors
often... I guess the good news is that you can choose 
from manycolors if you're going to do a full refinish... Save your jasper
thread forthe more expensive rods.

Darrell

-----Original Message-----

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago and
uponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not original.The
thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the ferrulesfit nicely,
but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas wondering what
the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on this thing so I
can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the front "rib" of the
cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up with cork dust and
PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting this thing back into
shape?  Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from tjsbamboo@alltel.net Tue Jan  4 05:56:05 2000

FAA05464

Subject: unsubcribe

boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF5677.EE3C7620"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF5677.EE3C7620

unsubscribe

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF5677.EE3C7620

unsubscribe

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF5677.EE3C7620--

from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jan  4 08:03:23 2000

SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.197.19);Tue, 4 Jan 2000 07:33:45 -0600

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

This is getting sort of interesting. I have an almost mint SB Double Built,that
must have been made during the Jordan era, as the quality if far abovethe
average SB rod. It also has a number not listed in Sinclair's book, buthas the
Black w/ white (or possibly gold) tipping. It's a #166, in 9".

GMA----- Original Message -----

Subject: RE: South Bend Model 359

I have several 359's, one near mint with all brown wraps... can't find
theothers...

I have a SB with green/black jasper (wish I had some of that thread) toobutit
is a high end Double-built rod. It looks like they changed wrappingcolors
often... I guess the good news is that you can choose 
from manycolors if you're going to do a full refinish... Save your jasper
threadforthe more expensive rods.

Darrell

-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu

Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:07 PM

Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: South Bend Model 359

Looks like I found a Y2K bug in my PC!  I just noticed the date on mymessage
was 1980.  I think I fixed it, but I'm not sure...

Anyway, what I forgot to mention is that this rod is a 9 footer.  Idon't know
if that makes a difference, but the thread is definitely notblack and white
jasper.  It's a medium green.  Not forest or emerald,but not light green
either.  It's somewhere in between.  Perhaps thisrod is less "factory original"
than I thought!

Thanx,

Dennis

Ed Riddle wrote:

Dennis:Sinclair's book says the #359 wraps were Black & White Jasper.Ed----
-Original Message-----From: Dennis Haftel 

Date: Monday, January 03, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: South Bend Model 359

Hi folks,

I got my hands on an old South Bend Model 359 not too long ago
anduponmatching the tips together I noticed that one of them is not
original.The thread colors match, the varnish is "pretty good" and the
ferrulesfit nicely, but the guides don't line up when placed side by side.  Iwas
wondering what the name of the color green is that was used forthewraps on
this thing so I can restore it to its factory spec.  There'salso a chip in the
front "rib" of the cork comfi-cient grip.  I wasthinking of building it back up
with cork dust and PVA glue.  Anysuggestions as to how to go about getting
this thing back into shape?Iknow it's not a Payne or a Gillum, but it's just
got...  character.

Any advise would be appreciated.

TIA,

Dennis

from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Jan  4 08:03:51 2000

2000 05:56:38 PST

Subject: Re: South Bend Model 359

dennis,  i have found in my limmited experience withsouth bend that the
guides and diameters sometimes donot match up on double tipped rods.  at
least ive seenit more than once.  i'm not one of the big collectorsbut i have a
buddy that's been doing it along time andwe,ve go