is when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then remove the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had this problem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Mar 24 09:32:41 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 24 Mar 2000 09:33:29 -0600 Subject: Re: blueing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0 I tend to never coat ferrules with anything. If the finish is coated, =there is always nicks and such. If left clean, then if the bluing fades, =or wears off, it's a simple matter to re-treat them. I always liked the satin finish look to N.S., as it speaks of "class", =as opposed to the bright shiny finish of cheap looking chrome plating. GMA Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 7:37 AMSubject: blueing HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using = payne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The = is when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then = the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had = problem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0 I tend to never coat ferrules with anything. If the finish = coated, there is always nicks and such. If left clean, then if the = or wears off, it's a simple matter to re-treat them. I always liked the satin finish look to N.S., as it speaks = plating. GMA ----- Original Message ----- = Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 = AMSubject: blueing = blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problem = the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one = TOM ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0-- from dati@selway.umt.edu Fri Mar 24 10:00:53 2000 Subject: blueing ferrules, wooden planing forms I just purchased some ferrules from Tony, they are great. Do I need toblue them and if so, what is the purpose for doing so? I also finished another wooden planing form. It is my best oneyet. Just thought that I would write and let everyone know that to putthe groove in the form I used Thomas Penrose's method but glued strips of150 grit sand paper to the file with Tite Bond II. I was able to producea nice groove within a short while. I ran the file from one end to theother in one steady stroke and then backwards back down the form. Itworked well for me and I used the form last night. Thanks for your time and support,Darin Law from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Mar 24 17:12:50 2000 0000 (204.186.33.157) Subject: Re: blueing FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then removethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had thisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOMTom, I had this problem until I used Saran wrap or other householdplastic wrap over the Laquered ferrule and under the masking tape. Worksgreat! Marty from bhoy@inmind.com Fri Mar 24 18:15:05 2000 altos.inmind.com (8.8.8/SCO5) withESMTP id TAA23656 for ; Fri, 24 Mar 2000 Subject: bluing agatine stippers Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the Payne formula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY caustic stuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremely severe chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Will dipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause a toxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I think the stripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:03:17 2000 Fri, 24 Mar 2000 21:02:44 -0400 Subject: Re: blueing Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate to putsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be a customerandfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying "Gee,thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as long asthey tell me how they do it ;^) Is itbecause it is a harmful substance or what?Shawn FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then removethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had thisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:13:19 2000 Subject: hic-up I hope everyone that wanted to see my eboard page with pictures andbuilding details got to see it. I am sorry for the mass confusion caused objects in my hand especially my Stanley 9 1/2 ;^) . http://www.Shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com from chris@artistree.com Fri Mar 24 19:19:45 2000 Subject: Re: blueing Shawn,All most all the people who requested bluing on my rods said they"couldn't wait till it looked worn." Guess the worn look is kind of likefaded blue jeans. -- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as longasthey tell me how they do it ;^) from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:52:58 2000 Fri, 24 Mar 2000 21:52:24 -0400 Subject: Re: blueing,now babble Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing?All,kind of unrelated but someone approached me the other day and askedme if Ibuilt greenhart/lancewood rods as well! I was taken off guard and when Ireplied thatI did not, the person informed me that there is someone 3/4 of an hour from mebuilding greenheart/lancewood flyrods.I thought that these were deadcrafts. AlthoughI have no desire to buy one I was intrigued and I am going to see if I canlocatethis rebel to check out the product and process. I will keep you informed!Shawn Chris Wohlford wrote: Shawn,All most all the people who requested bluing on my rods said they"couldn't wait till it looked worn." Guess the worn look is kind of likefaded blue jeans. --Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....aslong asthey tell me how they do it ;^) from FlyfishT@aol.com Fri Mar 24 21:55:03 2000 Subject: blueing To all , Thanks for all the ideas .I hope the next shot will hold. Tom from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Mar 24 22:25:07 2000 Subject: Re: blueing Shawn,I have used two approaches to the short life of bluing, both with greatsuccess. First, simply dip the blued ferrules when you dip the final coatofvarnish on the rest of the rod. That way the bluing lasts as long as thevarnish.Second, I've used "Nyalic" automotive clear coat on both ferrules andslideband reel seats that I have blued. Nyalic is designed to clear coat theundersideof your engine. It resists heat well, and dries hard as nails. I don't knowhowlong it will last, but I first used it almost two years ago, and that reelseatlooks good. --- Well, the bluing looks good anyway. I've banged it up alittlesince it's on my personal fishing rod. Hope this helps, Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as longasthey tell me how they do it ;^) U.S.? Is itbecause it is a harmful substance or what?Shawn FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . Theproblemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and thenremovethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one hadthisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Mar 24 22:31:10 2000 Subject: Uplocking reel seat cork Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Mar 24 22:56:36 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:59:56 +0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork.I chuck this cutter up, fire up the lathe and while it's turning I forcethe cork ring onto the cutter. Cuts it clean as a whistle.To gule and turn everything in place I put the reel seat hood into the ringand glue all the cork together and turn it with the hood in place. Tony At 10:29 PM 3/24/00 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from Bamboomaker@aol.com Fri Mar 24 23:08:03 2000 Subject: Pezon & Michel Taper Hello, Since many are requesting the taper to the rod from my prior email, I'll go ahead and post it so that others can build it. Pezon & Michel Colorado modelSuper Parabolic Progressive PPP7' 7" 5/6 wt Staggered Ferrule: Butt Length 39.5"Tip Length 53"Taper (with varnish - subtract ~ 0.002) Tip0 .0825 .09510 .12215 .13220 .14525 .16030 .17635 .18940 .20545 .21450 .232 Butt0 .2405 .24010 .24915 .25620 .26225 .26430 .268 Guide spacingTip 0 - 3.5" - 9.5" - 16" - 23.25" - 30.75" - 39.5" - 48.75" - Ferrule(52")Butt Ferrule - 7" - 17"(stripper) - 29"(start of winding check) If anyone converts this successfully to a non staggered ferrule design, please let me know. Best regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, M.D. from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 01:07:27 2000 Subject: "An Honest Angler" Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of Sparse GreyHackle." His daughter put together this collection of tales & commentary from a true story teller. There is some overlap with his book "FishlessDays, Angling Nights" but don't let that stop you. She included enoughother material (mostly letters to other notable anglers) to make it aneven more entertaining read. I recommend it to anyone who's countingdown the remaining days to season opener. And yes, this book has some bamboo in it. For anyone that learned viathe Garrison book will find "The letter to Hoagy Carmichael Jr." quitepoignant. -- Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 01:34:39 2000 Subject: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Shawn,Well, I'm flattered...but it's probably because I live in NorthernCalifornia . Anyway is this the article? (http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) If not this online articlemight be of interest to others.-- Best Regards, Anonymous in Californiaemail: anonymous@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing? from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 02:18:41 2000 Subject: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Shawn,Well, I'm flattered ...but it's probably because I live in NorthernCalifornia . Anyway is this the article? (http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) Even if it's not thisonline article might be of interest to others on the list.-- Best Regards, Anonymous in Californiaemail: anonymous@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing? from rvenneri@ulster.net Sat Mar 25 05:09:49 2000 0500 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Harry Boyd wrote: Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/Harry,I have found the best way for me to cut out the cork is to clamp thering in a drilling fixture(or a vise) then I use a counter bore of therighrt size with a pilot that fits snug in the bore of the ring and usemy drill press to cut the hole in just secs. contact me off list if youwould like me to get you one to try out you will never do it any otherway. Best RegardsBob VVenneri's21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882http://www.ulster.net/~rvenneri/index.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Mar 25 05:35:25 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 07:34:52 -0400 Subject: Re: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Chris,yes that is the article. Terribly sorry, I had you confused with CraigNaldrett. Chris Wohlford wrote: Anyway is this the article?http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:30:20 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Chris Wohlford wrote: Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of Sparse GreyHackle." His daughter put together this collection of tales & commentary from a true story teller. There is some overlap with his book "FishlessDays, Angling Nights" but don't let that stop you. She included enoughother material (mostly letters to other notable anglers) to make it aneven more entertaining read. I recommend it to anyone who's countingdown the remaining days to season opener. And yes, this book has some bamboo in it. For anyone that learned viathe Garrison book will find "The letter to Hoagy Carmichael Jr." quitepoignant. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:36:54 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 06:36:38 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony,How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:51:38 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Oops, Sorry --That last message was supposed to read: I agree, Chris. I'm in the middle of that book now, and it's a goodread.While we're talking books, I confess that I liked "Bamboo Fly Rod Suite" byFrankSoos? Anyone else read it?Harry Chris Wohlford wrote: Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of SparseGreyHackle." --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 09:34:11 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 09:34:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760 I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess for the reel =seat you are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter might can =be turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a =counter bore tool could be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or =milling machine, but I'm missing what is being done, I think ???? GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony,How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right =dimension anduse this to cut the cork. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760 I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess = reel seat you are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter = turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a = tool could be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or milling = I'm missing what is being done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Harry = Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel = cork cork. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Sat Mar 25 10:43:06 2000 (envelope- from mrmac@tcimet.net) Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agatestripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any bythesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than theareaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on anoldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I thinkthestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Mar 25 10:43:09 2000 Sun, 26 Mar 2000 00:46:20 +0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork types="text/plain,text/html";boundary="=====================_1427600==_.ALT" --=====================_1427600==_.ALT As I understood the problem it was cutting a hole in a cork ring the rightsizeto allow the hood of an uplocking reel seat to fit in it.I've described how I turn a very thin sectioned Al tube I guess it basicalyisso the OD is the same as the hood but I didn't describe the way I actuallycutthe hole mainly because I had hoped I wouldn't be asked but since I havebeen...My old Tech lecturer would have a fit....I hold the cork ring so it's snug in my palm and I sort of push it onto thecutter. In fact it's not as bad as it sounds as the cutter being so thin andthe cork cutting so easily because the cutter is so thin you don't needmuchforce at all and the cork cuts. I guess if you were afraid of taking a coresample of your hand you could place a piece of wood behind the cork andpush itonto the cutter using the tailstock and dead centre but as I say, it's not asbad as it sounds and works well. Tony At 09:36 AM 3/25/00 -0600, nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess for the reel seatyou are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter might can beturnedon a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a counter boretoolcould be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or milling machine, butI'mmissing what is being done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- From: Harry Boyd Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AM Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony, How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in the tailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimensionand use this to cut the cork. /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1427600==_.ALT As I understood the problem it was cutting a hole in a cork ring theright size to allow the hood of an uplocking reel seat to fit in it.I've described how I turn a very thin sectioned Al tube I guess itbasicaly is so the OD is the same as the hood but I didn't describe theway I actually cut the hole mainly because I had hoped I wouldn't beasked but since I have been...My old Tech lecturer would have afit....I hold the cork ring so it's snug in my palm and I sort of push it ontothe cutter. In fact it's not as bad as it sounds as the cutter being sothin and the cork cutting so easily because the cutter is so thin youdon't need much force at all and the cork cuts. I guess if you wereafraid of taking a core sample of your hand you could place a piece ofwood behind the cork and push it onto the cutter using the tailstock anddead centre but as I say, it's not as bad as it sounds and works well. Tony At 09:36 AM 3/25/00 -0600, nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. Isit the recess for the reel seat you are cutting here ? I can see how aring shaped cutter might can be turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork isso soft. I can see how a counter bore tool could be used to cut therecess in a drill press, or milling machine, but I'm missing what isbeing done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- From:Harry Boyd Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony, somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Tony Young wrote: dimension and /*************************************************************************/AV Young And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1427600==_.ALT-- from piscator@crosswinds.net Sat Mar 25 11:20:12 2000 (envelope- from piscator@crosswinds.net) Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Agatine is glass. Brian from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 11:21:10 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 11:09:49 -0600 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60 Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic is just =diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating =form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and =most ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to =see if this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work =was chrome plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any =metal is being eroded. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:41 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agate =stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any = solution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for =theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, =becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than =the areaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not =beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch =into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on =an oldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't =mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by =thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within =theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the =Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY =causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an =extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). =Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause =atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I =think thestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60 Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic= diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating = engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and most = metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to see if this = will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work was chrome plated. = eroded. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Ralph= Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AM stippersCan't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just = agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem = metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer = ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on an oldrod = "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty = effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I think = Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60-- from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Sat Mar 25 11:32:47 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwell too. from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 11:34:12 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 11:34:59 -0600 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720 I should have said 50/50 with water, for the dilution of the muratic =acid. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:23 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic is just =diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating =form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and =most ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to =see if this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work =was chrome plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any =metal is being eroded. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:41 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old =agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected =any by thesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did = ferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, =becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently =than the areaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not =beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch =into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going =on an oldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't =mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected = solution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a ="HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both =within the U.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the =Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY =causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an =extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the =chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or =cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I =think thestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720 I should have said 50/50 with water, for the dilution of = muratic acid. GMA ----- Original Message ----- nobler Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AM stippers Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the = just diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome = form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, = ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to = this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work was = plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any metal is = eroded. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Ralph= Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, = AM stippersCan't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just = old agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not = the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard = surface that behaved differently than the areaof the feet that = took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through = ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on an = the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't = Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was = "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty = both within theU.S. and across the border.Hope this = = chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). = dipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause = Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720-- from MasjC1@aol.com Sat Mar 25 12:28:46 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Your post is most timely. I just finished it last night. I thought it was a great read, very entertaining. It makes a great bedside companion as allthe entries -- I hesitate to call them chapters -- are short. Just perfect to relax before going to sleep. Mark Cole from bob@downandacross.com Sat Mar 25 12:30:33 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise howbest to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from cbogart@shentel.net Sat Mar 25 12:53:08 2000 (5.0.2195) boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_"Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_ Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text--- I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_ Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat Mar 25 13:12:52 2000 11:19:40 PST Subject: re: blueing agatine strippers The Payne formula will not damage the agatine or agate stripping guides. The frames of many of thesestripping guides do not blue as deeply or as quickly as other componentssuch as ferrules or reelseathardware, but they will color. I assumed it had something to do with thenickel content, but it could be aplating of some kind. If you get a splotchy uneven blueing then you canbuff the area with 0000 and re bluewith more even results. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from bob@downandacross.com Sat Mar 25 14:20:47 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment Yeah, that works pretty good on PVC too. I picked that one up from LeftyKreh. That would make it easier to swap end for end too. Thanks,Chris.Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote: Paul/ Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of oldlinesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leadersandbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from sniderja@email.uc.edu Sat Mar 25 14:45:30 2000 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers I have used it on both agate and agateen with no difficulties. I was usingDave LeClair's Payne product.J. Snider At 11:41 AM 03/25/2000 -0500, Ralph MacKenzie wrote:Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agatestripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any bythesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than theareaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not beenpreviously filed took a lo- o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on anoldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using thePayneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERYcausticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I thinkthestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 14:52:08 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:52:01 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. George,Tony's got it right. I was trying to figure out asimple way to cut the recess in the first cork of the gripinto which a hood fits on uplocking reel seats. Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sat Mar 25 21:01:14 2000 Subject: Re: blueing In a message dated 03/24/2000 8:06:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca writes: Shawn,I've seen a lot of rods over the years, that werefifty to one hundred years old, with the oxidizing on the ferrulesstill in good condition. If it is done right and taken care of overthe years, it will hold up a very long time. As to the shipping of my Oxidizer out of the USA, yes, it is because of what is in it. Hydrochloric acid, Arsenic, to namea couple of the compounds. This type of stuff is illegal to ship toCanada and other countries. The customs people will not let itgo through. I had a $900.00 order to Japan sent back to me, because it contained a bottle of Oxidizer. I had to remove the Oxidizer and reship the order, for another $100.00 shipping. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sat Mar 25 21:13:24 2000 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork In a message dated 03/25/2000 9:39:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, fbcwin@3g.quik.com writes: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork. >> I cut my cork ring, basically the same way Tony does his. Imake the grip, with one extra ring. Then I run a piece of tubing through the grip, leaving some sticking out of the front end. Iput this into my drill chuck, that is mounted in the tail stock ofmy lathe. Then I put a piece of the correct size tubing, with theend sharpened, into my lathe chuck. While the lathe is running,I crank my tail stock in, to bring the cork into the "cutter." Withthe tubing going through the center of the grip into the tail stockdrill chuck, the grip stays on center with the lathe chuck, as youcut out the piece for the hidden cap. It works for me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 22:40:57 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:40:48 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Sounds like a good idea, Dave. I like to form my grips on the rod blank, andinthat case, I don't think it would work. I formed the ring for the hood in thelathe, then glued it to the rest of the grip. Then I turned the whole thinginthe lathe. It's not easy to keep centered, but it can be made to work withalittle trial and error. Harry LECLAIR123@aol.com wrote: I cut my cork ring, basically the same way Tony does his. Imake the grip, with one extra ring. Then I run a piece of tubingthrough the grip, leaving some sticking out of the front end. Iput this into my drill chuck, that is mounted in the tail stock ofmy lathe. Then I put a piece of the correct size tubing, with theend sharpened, into my lathe chuck. While the lathe is running,I crank my tail stock in, to bring the cork into the "cutter." Withthe tubing going through the center of the grip into the tail stockdrill chuck, the grip stays on center with the lathe chuck, as youcut out the piece for the hidden cap. It works for me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from channer1@rmi.net Sun Mar 26 01:24:51 2000 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Harry Boyd wrote: Sounds like a good idea, Dave. I like to form my grips on the rod blank,and inthat case, I don't think it would work. I formed the ring for the hood inthelathe, then glued it to the rest of the grip. Then I turned the whole thinginthe lathe. It's not easy to keep centered, but it can be made to work withalittle trial and error. Harry Harry;Here's yet another way. I made a block of wood with an 1 1/4" recess init that I use in my drill press to drill the center holes in the rings,with this it is easy enough to drill the correct size hole for the hood.When I glue up the grip I have a wooden filler plug I made that has astep down in it so the hood ring fits on it,I glue up the grip carefullyso I don't get glue on the wood plug, then (after i make sure the plugwill come off)I just leave it in place while I shape the grip and finishout the rod, mounting the reel seat is the last thing I do. Works forme.JohnJohn from stpete@netten.net Sun Mar 26 09:30:12 2000 Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sun Mar 26 09:41:57 2000 Subject: Re: Just Curious I like the Hardy Bougle. It just looks right on a cane rod. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Mar 26 10:30:23 2000 Subject: RE: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0 Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a lot of long thought. Not too =expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real nice.I got mine =via auction. Brand new.No affiliation.....etc.RandallG. NW Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0 Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a = thought. Not too expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real = Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 11:01:35 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 10:50:15 -0600 Subject: Re: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340 Regardless of the rod fished, I simply can't get caught up in paying =hundreds for a reel, that really only is to store the line, for most =fishing conditions. I've had Tarpon on, that would have weighed well =over 150 lbs., and they never burned up the drag on my Pfleuger 1495 =type reel. If money were no object, I could easily enjoy the quality of =a finely machined Finnor, or the like. Still, I'd much rather put those =dollars into a fine cane tool ! I've never seen a Ballan. Is there a web site that shows a listing of =them ? GMA Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 10:28 AMSubject: RE: Just Curious Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a lot of long thought. Not too =expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real nice.I got mine =via auction. Brand new.No affiliation.....etc.RandallG. NW Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340 Regardless of the rod fished, I simply can't get caught up = paying hundreds for a reel, that really only is to store the line, for = fishing conditions. I've had Tarpon on, that would have weighed well = lbs., and they never burned up the drag on my Pfleuger 1495 type reel. = were no object, I could easily enjoy the quality of a finely = Finnor, or the like. Still, I'd much rather put those dollars into a = tool ! I've never seen a Ballan. Is there a web site that shows a = of them ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Randall= Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 = AMSubject: RE: Just Curious Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after = long thought. Not too expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price = nice.I got mine via auction. Brand new.No = Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:27:49 2000 Subject: Rectangular Quad I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has the shorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 11:30:54 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Reels The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBayauctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam'sreels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels.You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going tolook more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminumand looks nice on the cane. I like the really cheap Deerfield Elites atabout $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with their olive greenanodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they are great. You canalso find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They are greatreels for the price, and you grandfather or father may have had one inthe later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:47 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 09:49:44 -0800 Subject: RE: Just Curious Isn't a St. George a little big for trout?If you're worried that a reel is a little too expensive than it probably is.Whatever you get use it. I wouldn't scratch it on purpose though. It'll getscratched enough from use all by itself. If I were to mark it I would do iton the inside of the frame. I think it is tacky to buy an expensive reel andthen deface it visibly when there are other options. It shows no respectforthe reel. I mean this is really an aesthetic purchase here. There are lotsof decent cheap reels that will "do the job" just as well. A several hundreddollar reel is like buying a Mercedes as opposed to an Chevy Impala. Nowdon't get me wrong. I think that aesthetics is important. I fish as much asI can and the last thing I want to do is to fondle some cheap piece of crapall day long. I spent hours building on my rods, I want a reel that someone(at least) spent hours designing. I used to be a mechanic and I remember a Consumer Reports article about atool comparison between Craftsman and Snap-On wrenches. Of course thearticle came out and said that they found no difference between thequalityof the two (and in fact as far as this goes I would not completelydisagreewith them too much) that neither had a mechanical superiority over theother. Well the person who wrote the article didn't handle tools all day andthey totally missed the point as far as mechanics are concerned. You arehandling tools all day long and the Snap-On just felt better. You took pridein your work and you wanted to feel good as you worked as well as at theendof the day. Same thing applies here. You fish all day and your hands areconstantly on the reel. You want something that feels good. (note on the Craftsman tools. I ended up using the Craftsman tools morebecause they have ribs and were not as smoothly finished as the Snap- On. Iwas a Marine Mechanic and I would be working on a boat (big boat) andhaveoil on my hands and I couldn't hold on to the wrenches as well. I startedloosing them in the bilge (area underneath the main engine), a lot of timesyou were not going to get your wrench back until they re-powered theboat!) Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from flyh2o@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 26 12:00:22 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:59:49 +0000 Subject: Re: Reels boundary="------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836" --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836 Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag ratherthan fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150. bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay auctions.They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's reelsthat are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. Youmight also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going tolook more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for mycanes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the reallycheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bouglewith their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45,they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay fornothing. They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather orfather may have had one in the later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836 Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag rather thanfiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150.bob maulucci wrote:The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoingeBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about theAdam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerlessreels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I amgoing to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle withtheir olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they aregreat. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing.They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather or father may havehad one in the later classic cane era.BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 12:13:14 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. I boughtseveral 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. I neverpaid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line was worthit. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger pricing breakdown?Bob At 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote:Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard,metal disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e- bay....a1494 just went for $150. bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via hisongoing eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good thingsabout the Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan andPeerless reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about$500. I am going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado#2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I likethe really cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the HardyBougle with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about$45, they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay father may have had one in the later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci ================================================== downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com-- Mike Leitheiser Lake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state." Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 12:15:53 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 10:15:50 -0800 Subject: RE: Reels boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920 I used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line gettingcaught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to HardyMarquis (spelling?) with the rim control and stopped having the problems. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag rather thanfiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150.bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay auctions. Theyare low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's reels that aretraditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. You might alsoconsider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going to look more intothe Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my canes. It isaluminumand looks nice on the cane. I like the really cheap Deerfield Elites atabout $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with their olive green anodizedfinish. With the spools at about $45, they are great. You can also findplenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They are great reels for theprice, and you grandfather or father may have had one in the later classiccane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920 to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line getting = between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to Hardy problems. Jensen LeitheiserSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 = ReelsActually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, = disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a = The Ballan's are available from Bill via his= eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about = Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and = reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I = going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 = my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the = Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with = olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they are = You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They = great reels for the price, and you grandfather or father may have = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D downandacross.com =bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 12:16:22 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Hi Darryl:How do you figure the dimensions for the sides? I think this is a MichaelMontagne (sp?) idea. I remember reading that his quads were rectangular.Sounds interesting. Something to think about while I await my Hand Milland quad cutter set. Might make a Poor Man's Quad while I wait to testthis. Thanks for sharing,Bob At 12:27 PM 3/26/00 -0500, you wrote: I found that bamboo rods that"tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flatmeasurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has the shorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. Iwouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't getnoticedright away.Darryl Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 12:25:52 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:14:18 -0600 Subject: Re: Reels boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060 I picked up a new Medallist on eBay, not long ago, for about $30. It =seems fine, but was made in China ! GMA Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 12:14 PMSubject: RE: Reels I used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line =getting caught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to =Hardy Marquis (spelling?) with the rim control and stopped having the =problems. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag =rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for = The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay =auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's=reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. =You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going =to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my=canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the really =cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle =with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, =they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for =nothing. They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather or = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060 I picked up a new Medallist on eBay, not long ago, for = It seems fine, but was made in China ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Jensen Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: RE: Reels used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line = caught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to Hardy = problems. Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of Mike LeitheiserSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000= rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Re: ReelsActually, OLD Pfluegers (round line = metal disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on = The Ballan's are available from Bill via = ongoing eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good = the Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and = Peerless reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at = $500. I am going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross = #2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. = the really cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the = Bougle with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at = $45, they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060-- from landeens@home.com Sun Mar 26 12:48:54 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP 0800 Subject: Unsuscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620 Please unscribe me for the time being SET RODMAKERS MAIL POSTPONE ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620 Please unscribe me for the time being SET RODMAKERS MAIL =POSTPONE ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Sun Mar 26 13:15:52 2000 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad How do you figure the dimensions for the sides? Not wanting to go too crazy with this idea, I went just.002 (.001 each strip for two strips) larger. If you want, try .004 and let me know how it worked.Darryl from bobspring@sisna.com Sun Mar 26 13:27:59 2000 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A44D4A9A0148; Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:26:05 -0700 Subject: Unsuscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270 ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270 ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 14:16:13 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any wayto splice the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you arethe most ingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from flyh2o@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 26 14:41:15 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:40:43 +0000 Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3" --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3 Look at this...http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latchcover(original and old).also all boogered up. Now at $58. Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made inJapan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. PreShakespeare reels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6dimples around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag diskwith the round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go figure,, Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices.http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188 bob maulucci wrote: Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. Ibought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured onthem. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew thesilk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does thePflueger pricing break down?Bob At 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote: --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latch Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in Shakespeare around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with theround line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for lessthan $75 or $80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that figure,, prices. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188bob maulucci wrote: worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that waspictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when Iknewthe silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does thePflueger pricing break down?BobAt 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote:--Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Mar 26 14:41:27 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:37:04 Subject: RE: sort of rod related BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w) Dear Bob, The videotape can be repaired but you'll need to build a four-spoolcounter- rotating scotch taper. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 PM Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way to splicethe tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are the mostingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks,Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w) Bob, counter-rotating scotch taper. Richard maulucciSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 relatedDisaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way to = the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are the most = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w)-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:21:33 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:22:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0 Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better condition, and one =very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if it =has a silk line they are after ? GMA Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 2:38 PMSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Look at this... =http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in =Japan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. Pre =Shakespeare reels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6 =dimples around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk =with the round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go = Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices. = http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. I =bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. =I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line =was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0 Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better = one very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if = a silk line they are after ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Leitheiser maulucci Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Reels, now =Pflueger cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D29233= round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in= spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with the = guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for less than $75 = cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D28748= worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that = pictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when = the silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does = -- Mike Leitheiser Lake = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D downandacross.com =bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 15:23:40 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: RE: sort of rod related Do I need an old sewing machine motor for that?Bob At 03:37 PM 3/26/00 -0500, you wrote:DearBob, The videotape can be repairedbut you'll need to build a four-spool counter- rotating scotchtaper. Richard-----OriginalMessage-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu[ Behalf Of bob maulucciSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 PM Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way tosplice the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are themost ingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 15:45:23 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 13:45:20 -0800 "bob maulucci" Subject: RE: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490 You could e-mail the seller and ask if he knows what kind of line is on thereel. At least the ad appears honest enough. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 1:24 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better condition, and onevery small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if it hasa silk line they are after ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: Mike Leitheiser Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 2:38 PMSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Look at this...http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latchcover(original and old).also all boogered up. Now at $58.Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made inJapan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. PreShakespearereels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6 dimples aroundspool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with the roundlineguard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for less than $75 or$80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that figure,, Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices.http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188 bob maulucci wrote: Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. Ibought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. Inever paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line wasworth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger pricingbreakdown?BobAt 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote: --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490 could e-mail the seller and ask if he knows what kind of line is on the = least the ad appears honest enough. Jensen noblerSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 1:24 = PfluegerWow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better = and one very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I = it has a silk line they are after ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Leitheiser maulucci Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Reels, now =Pflueger cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D29233= round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made = around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with = round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for = than $75 or $80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that = cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D28748= worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line = pictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only = the silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How = -- Mike Leitheiser Lake = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:52:48 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:53:39 -0600 Subject: Fw: PHY Midge boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0 Subject: Re: PHY Midge Hi Steven, At last, I've taken the Midge measurements, working as best I can around =my wraps.0" @ tip top =3D .0685" =3D .07710" =3D .09715" =3D .11720" =3D .12525" =3D .14230" =3D .14735" =3D .17136.25" =3D .175 ( just short of the wraps, on the tip male ferrule )37" from tip top to seat of male ferrule.2.375" =3D .196 ( from end of female ferrule to end of wrap )5" =3D .19710" =3D .21015" =3D .21220" =3D .22625" =3D .22830" =3D .24031" =3D .242 (@ front of grip)Total length of butt section =3D38" Total grip =3D 7", including reel seat. Over all length 6'-3" I hope this helps. It will be interesting to compare mine with others =made later. I got mine shortly after he listed it in his catalog. GMA Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 12:32 AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that the tapers in the Rodmakers taper file and the =one in Howell's book are quite different from each other? I'd like to =feel a little more confident about which numbers to use. I have read =that Paul Young's rods had a lot of variance among the same models. Does =anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms =either one of the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0 From:nobler = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:38 PMSubject: Re: PHY Midge Hi Steven, At last, I've taken the Midge measurements, working asbest = around my wraps.0" @ tip top =3D .0685" =3D .07710" =3D .09715" =3D .11720" =3D .12525" =3D .14230" =3D .14735" =3D .17136.25" =3D .175 ( just short of the wraps, on the tip male = )37" from tip top to seat of male ferrule.2.375" =3D .196 ( from end of female ferrule to end of wrap= )5" =3D .19710" =3D .21015" =3D .21220" =3D .22625" =3D .22830" =3D .24031" =3D .242 (@ front of =grip) 6'-3" I hope this helps. It will be interesting to compare mine = catalog. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Steven= Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000= AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that thetapers = Rodmakers taper file and the one in Howell's book are quite different = each other? I'd like to feel a little more confident about which = use. I have read that Paul Young's rods had a lot of = same models. Does anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms either= the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:53:20 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:54:12 -0600 Subject: Fw: PHY Midge boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00 Subject: Re: PHY Midge Looking at the other taper given I took them a bit differently. My butt =section is measured from the end of the female down the butt section. =This means the first 5" dimension is taken 5" from the end of the female =ferrule, as are all the others for this section. Still, it seems very =close to the other rod listed. My thinking was to get as close as possible to the dimensions where the =ferrules are mounted. GMA Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 12:32 AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that the tapers in the Rodmakers taper file and the =one in Howell's book are quite different from each other? I'd like to =feel a little more confident about which numbers to use. I have read =that Paul Young's rods had a lot of variance among the same models. Does =anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms =either one of the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00 From:nobler = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:51 PMSubject: Re: PHY Midge Looking at the other taper given I took them a bit = butt section is measured from the end of the female down the butt = means the first 5" dimension is taken 5" from the end of the female = are all the others for this section. Still, it seems very close to the = listed. My thinking was to get as close as possible to the = the ferrules are mounted. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Steven= Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000= AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that thetapers = Rodmakers taper file and the one in Howell's book are quite different = each other? I'd like to feel a little more confident about which = use. I have read that Paul Young's rods had a lot of = same models. Does anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms either= the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00-- from rsgould@cmc.net Sun Mar 26 16:50:09 2000 Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,I prefer the "Perfect" by Hardy for the perfect fly reel.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 16:55:38 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment 99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255" --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255 Bob /Chris....I have been using loops on my Salmon lines for a few yearsnow . Have been using two nail knots with 8 lb test. Has worked great nail knot at the terminal end with a silk line for trout fishing wouldwork well with very little bulk. 2Cents.....Rich bob maulucci wrote: Yeah, that works pretty good on PVC too. I picked that one up fromLefty Kreh. That would make it easier to swap end for end too. Thanks,Chris.Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote: Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop inthe end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap itwithWhite "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of oldlinesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines. The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leadersandbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255 Bob /Chris....I have been using loops on my Salmon lines for a few years worked a single nail knot at the terminal end with a silk line for trout fishing bob maulucci wrote: picked that one up from Lefty Kreh. That would make it easier to swap end Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote:Paul/ Bob If you want to goloopto loop then you can make a loop inthe end of the SilkLine itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it withWhite "A" Silk andvarnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done thisway and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loopwillwork but tradition says . . . Chris --Original MessageText---From: bobmaulucciDate: Sat,25Mar 2000 13:28:03 - 0500 I have mine with asplicedbraided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM3/25/00-0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the'list'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk flylines ?Many thanks.....PaulBNote to allthoseinterested;I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silklinesand it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodiumbicarbonatewith the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by mylocalpharmacist ).Iam currently recoatingwith a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwelltoo. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255-- from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 17:10:10 2000 Subject: [Fwd: Rectangular Quad] 163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- 163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405 --------------163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Darryl is this the same thing as reduced vibration. It is quite evident onmy Payne 96 that when you stroke the rod, the tip comes to a dead stop. Ialso have found that with my one piece T&T's but not quite as much. ThePayne tips are fine...does that make a difference? Always wondered whatfactors caused that sudden deading with no vibration but never newwhy.......Rich DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has theshorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl --------------163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405-- from knflyrod@home.com Sun Mar 26 17:29:42 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:29:38 -0800 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Just Curious Ray, You are a man of good sense and taste. There can be nothing like a"Perfect". The feel and smoothness cannot be surpassed. Yet I have somecustomers who can afford any reel they want and a couple who could buymostreel companies who will fish with nothing but Medalist (Made in USA). Gofigure. Ron Huff----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,I prefer the "Perfect" by Hardy for the perfect fly reel.Ray----- Original Message -----From: Rick C. Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:28 AMSubject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 17:37:05 2000 trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Mar 27 13:26:40 2000 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Hi Darryl,You've posted an interesting item in regards to how to make a rod thatoscillates in a single plane. Finding the "spine" in a rod is done by quitea few rod builders and I believe that Letcher Lambuth who did early workonthe spiral rod called finding the spine a "synchronizing" process. Histheory was the the spine should be found for both the tip section and thebutt section and then that the two should be placed in alignment. It standsto reason the the quad you described would oscillate in the plane with thelesser distance across the flats since it would be natural for the rod toseek the course of least resistance in releasing energy. The rod is actuallystiffer across the other two flats so the issue becomes somewhat of atradeoff.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Rectangular Quad I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has theshorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Mon Mar 27 13:40:21 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Re: reels Brian,As an englishman and rod builder I would have to agree'NOTHING'beats anAmerican production rod.The majority of the Bristish tapers I wouldnever dream of fishing..............As for your comments on reels, sure Hardy build some good reels at areasonable price but don't forget so do some of your fellow countrymen ! Regards.........Paul B Brian Sturrock wrote: Ah the SOUND of a Hardy *G*Don I've got quite TOO many around myplace.On mySpeys I now use EXCLUSIVELY a #2 Salmon Marquis On my # 5 Andy Barr iuse aMarquis * 6 Multiplier that Don Perry helped me with parts.Thankx againDon.Got 3 Perfects that are gathering more patina English reels yeah, but NOTHING beats American rods !!(the factoryvarietyof course)Cheers Brian from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Mon Mar 27 14:58:05 2000 SMTP id IAA24694; Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:56:58 +1200 Subject: RE: Sanding Blank Chris and Darryl, I have played around with this on several occasions ( you can speculate asto why) after darryl's mention a year or so ago. I have used a scraper alongthe marked section on the blank say three passes on each face of the blankand this will reduce the thickness by about 003. Using a scraper can makeaslightly wavey surface but this can then be sanded.It is always obvious inthe first few passes that there is a slight curve in the face of each sideand the reduction in the total number of fibres is not great as it is thispeak that is taken off. The scraper only takes a sliver off the centre ofthe face. Also to confirm Chris's comments I have now learnt to recognise a blankwhich has been scraped/sanded. I can say most of the Hardy rods I ownhavebeen sanded ( some would say not enough) and a number of other "better"makes also. Possibly this reduction of the surface of blanks was a muchmorewidespread "tunning" operation then is usually acknowledged. regards Ian Kearney At 02:22 PM 27/03/00 EST, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensest outside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibers running through the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then you shouldbe ouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:17:16 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: silk lines Anyone who might be interested in a new Phoenix line at 30%off contact me off line. I would like to get some for myself and a fewcustomers, but the price break is at ten lines. Also, delivery would beJuly at best. Thanks,Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from drossiter@uswest.net Mon Mar 27 15:17:59 2000 Subject: Re: Sanding Blank I built my first rod using Wayne Cattenach's 7'6" taper for #4 line. Ididn't really know what I was doing, so I built two butt sections -- just tobe on the safe side. As it turned out, the first butt section worked just fine. So I reduced theextra butt to fit a Jim Payne 100 taper. I was aware that this is a bigNo- No and I halfway expected a big lightning bolt to come down throughtheceiling on me. But it seemed a shame to leave a perfectly good butt section sitting on theshelf. I haven't fished that rod yet, but I plan to take it out as soon asthe streams clear. We'll see what happens... David ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Sanding Blank Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensestoutside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibers runningthrough the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then youshould beable to remove .005" from each flat for a total of .010" removal ifmeasureing from flat to flat. You might get away fine with even moreremovalthen that. On the other hand if the rod was significantly sanded during theproductionprocess and a good portion was already removed from the outside ofthestripsthen taking more might weaken the rod considerably. I think you havetoassume that the tip section strips would contain power fiber all thewaythrough since they are only perhaps .100" at the base. Most wouldagreethatthe densest fibers are oriented to the outside of the culm just undertheenamel. If you look at a few Orvis rods (older ones anyway) it becomes apparentthata great deal of scraping/sanding is done to the enamel side of thestripsused on these rods. I would be surprised if Orvis didn't remove atleast.010" from the enamel sides of each strip in the processes they used.Maybethat is why their tapers seem thick. The safe thing to do would be to mark the areas you want to reduceaccordingto the stress curve you are shooting for and start with only a smallamountremoved equally from both sides, say .002". I would do a lot ofcastingwith taped on guides to recognize the change. Go slow with 220 grit paper on a block. Let us know how you come outonthis. I think Terry Kirkpatrick from Florida (who may be on this list) hasdonesome of this, but I don't remember how it all turned out for him. Chris------------------Original textFrom: "James" , on 3/27/00 10:09 AM: I am modifying an old mass-production blank to try to make it fishable,sort of a banty project. I've shortened it from 9' to 7.5'. I've runthe taper through hexrod and no matter what line size I try it generatesodd stress curves ( from left to right, the curve climbs slowly to a peakmuch farther to the right than any of the archived tapers). Inaddition, the rod is fairly beat up with a number of dents, dings andgouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:23:27 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sanding a banty I did this exact thing to a 9' Shakespeare rod with a crackedferrule. I made the mid section into the handle and then I retapered theremaining 6 feet into dimensions I got from running a Dickerson 7012through Hexrod making it into 6'. It casts a 3 wt. pretty poorly I must add. Fairly wimpy. I fear thatI over did it in order to get the dimensions. It is hard to get exactingdimensions across all the flats. I would not do it again. I feel like Imessed up a still usable rod. I should have replaced the crackedferrules. My .02, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:25:43 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sanding I should have added that I had success in sanding down my ownblanks to get a better appearance. I just think that any drasticretapering is difficult to perform with any success. But more power toyou guys that can do it!Cheers, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon Mar 27 15:27:15 2000 Subject: RE: Sanding Blank I don't think it was a tuning operation as much as itwas to improve the appearance. If you remove enoughof the outside, most if not all of the blemishes aregone.Darryl Also to confirm Chris's comments I have now learnt to recognise a blankwhich has been scraped/sanded. I can say most of the Hardy rods I ownhavebeen sanded ( some would say not enough) and a number of other "better"makes also. Possibly this reduction of the surface of blanks was a muchmorewidespread "tunning" operation then is usually acknowledged. regards Ian Kearney At 02:22 PM 27/03/00 EST, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensest outside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibersrunning through the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then youshould be ouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from stpete@netten.net Mon Mar 27 15:54:56 2000 Subject: THE BOOK is on sale Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from gjm80301@yahoo.com Mon Mar 27 16:43:12 2000 2000 14:43:09 PST Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan The basic Galvan reels have a better range of low-drag settings thanany other reel I have ever tried. I have owned Hardy featherweights(no palming) and my wife has a CFO and Abel TR-1. The Galvan is myfavorite. I'm not sure I need a disc drag , but if the price isbasically the same and the reel looks good - why not? Of course, I bought my 2 Galvans several years back - they were onlyabout $170 before they became well-known. --- "Darrell A. Lee" wrote:I love my modern reels... I have a Fin-Nor Fin-Ite 5/6 and a Galvan2.75which is about 4/5 reel. My Hardy Bougle is too pretty... it's gotthe hardleather case, box papers, serial numbered ltd edition model...Unfished...too pretty... so decided to put it on ebay. Wish I had bought spare spools for the Fin-Nor when they wereavailable...Anybody have a spare? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,New to the list. Have been lurking a few months and decided to trymy handin it tonight. When I get a new reel I decide by one factor. Icall itthe "wow" factor. Those of you that have experienced it will knowwhat I'mtalking about. When you pick up a reel and hold it in your handthere is acertain "warm" feeling that comes over you. If you get it....buyit. Theonly caveat is don't pick up a reel you can't or feel you can'tafford.(your a better man than I if you can follow that rule) No matterhow gooda deal you get if there is no "wow" factor stay away. Hope thishelps....RichRick C. wrote: Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I'vetradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking ofbuyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hardat thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since itisoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I enduptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with atpenknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfecttroutreels? Rick C. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 27 16:55:44 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: THE BOOK is on sale Hi Rick,Thanks for the post. Just ordered the book.....Rich Rick C. wrote: Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from harms1@prodigy.net Mon Mar 27 17:51:13 2000 Mon, 27 Mar 2000 18:50:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0 Rick, Please, please before you purchase a new reel, be certain to try it on =your rod. The reason I suggest this is because the reels you have been =using are nearly half the weight of those you are considering (size-for =size) buying. The Peerless is an absolutely gorgeous piece of =craftsmanship, and its quality is unexcelled. But its weight is =HORRENDOUS! Reels like that just kill the feel of the rod in your hand. As an experiment, just try casting your favorite rod and line =combination without any reel at all. Strip most of the line off the =reel and string-up the rod--you'll quickly see what life the rod itself =has. Then wind up the line and mount the reel as usual. Lastly, =compare this to the Peerless or the St. George. I think you'll find your =rod becoming increasingly dead in your hand as you increase the weight =of the reel. Of course, the larger the rod, the less quickly this =becomes a problem. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ Subject: Just Curious I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've =tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at =thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe =ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife =likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0 Rick, Please,please = suggest this is because the reels you have been using are nearly half = absolutely gorgeous piece of craftsmanship, and its quality is = rod in your hand. As an experiment, just try= the line off the reel and string-up the rod--you'll quickly see what = think you'll find your rod becoming increasingly dead in your hand as = quickly this becomes a problem. cheers, =Bill -----------------------------------------------------Clic= here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/= ----- Original Message --- From: "Rick C." = Sent: Sunday, March 26,2000 = AM Curious folks! = = Peerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it = C. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0-- from briansr@point-net.com Mon Mar 27 17:58:35 2000 Subject: Re:reels hi again folks.Methinks I shoulda said" nothing beats American FACTORYrods if they beaFACTORY rod !!!!!"Andy Barr ( A local Canadian) was building a real fineuntempered 5 sider out of extremely good quality cane back in the 50sthrough to the 80s.That being said when your all alone on a Salmon riverNOTHING beats the clackity clack of a Hardy when you strip out lineEXCEPT afine 7ft # 4 or 5 very light graphite rod -Yeah I'm guilty !!!!!!!!.Whileon subject,Isn't that Orvis Vortec an ugly looking ostentatious P.O.S. I'lladmit to lusting for a Bogdan,but e-bay and Lang's have managed to pricethese way out of my budget.Besides I enjoy palming a reel and believe meit's quite difficult , but not totally impossible to do this with thisdesignCheers Brian from briansr@point-net.com Mon Mar 27 18:07:01 2000 Subject: Re:just curious Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amount ofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 18:08:59 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re:reels My buddy here has a click drag Orvis reel that he uses exclusively for steelhead. He lands over 150 fish every season with it. Works great withno drag except a click. I think it may be Hardy made. I will check.He feels it gives him better control than a heavy drag does.Bob At 06:57 PM 3/27/00 -0500, you wrote:hi again folks.Methinks I shoulda said" nothing beats American FACTORYrods if they beaFACTORY rod !!!!!"Andy Barr ( A local Canadian) was building a real fineuntempered 5 sider out of extremely good quality cane back in the 50sthrough to the 80s.That being said when your all alone on a Salmon riverNOTHING beats the clackity clack of a Hardy when you strip out lineEXCEPT afine 7ft # 4 or 5 very light graphite rod -Yeah I'm guilty !!!!!!!!.Whileon subject,Isn't that Orvis Vortec an ugly looking ostentatious P.O.S. I'lladmit to lusting for a Bogdan,but e-bay and Lang's have managed to pricethese way out of my budget.Besides I enjoy palming a reel and believe meit's quite difficult , but not totally impossible to do this with thisdesignCheers Brian from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Mar 27 18:41:20 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan I've found out that the OB-1 Galvan spool will interchange with the 2.75reel if you want a large arbor spool... Marty, the disc drags may be overkill but both reels I won at differentflyfishing meetings raffles... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan The basic Galvan reels have a better range of low-drag settings thanany other reel I have ever tried. I have owned Hardy featherweights(no palming) and my wife has a CFO and Abel TR-1. The Galvan is myfavorite. I'm not sure I need a disc drag , but if the price isbasically the same and the reel looks good - why not? Of course, I bought my 2 Galvans several years back - they were onlyabout $170 before they became well-known. --- "Darrell A. Lee" wrote:I love my modern reels... I have a Fin-Nor Fin-Ite 5/6 and a Galvan2.75which is about 4/5 reel. My Hardy Bougle is too pretty... it's gotthe hardleather case, box papers, serial numbered ltd edition model...Unfished...too pretty... so decided to put it on ebay. Wish I had bought spare spools for the Fin-Nor when they wereavailable...Anybody have a spare? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,New to the list. Have been lurking a few months and decided to trymy handin it tonight. When I get a new reel I decide by one factor. Icall itthe "wow" factor. Those of you that have experienced it will knowwhat I'mtalking about. When you pick up a reel and hold it in your handthere is acertain "warm" feeling that comes over you. If you get it....buyit. Theonly caveat is don't pick up a reel you can't or feel you can'tafford.(your a better man than I if you can follow that rule) No matterhow gooda deal you get if there is no "wow" factor stay away. Hope thishelps....RichRick C. wrote: Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I'vetradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking ofbuyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hardat thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since itisoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I enduptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one.Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with atpenknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfecttroutreels? Rick C. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Mar 27 19:10:40 2000 Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:09:58 -0400 Subject: Re: THE BOOK is on sale Great,I just paid $120 Canadian on e bay! When will I learn! Shawn "Rick C." wrote: Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 27 19:22:49 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Reels Marty, I'll agree with you on your last point. I have a Teton number 3 (Ithink. It's really tiny.) that has a two weight line on it. The reelhas a superb disc drag, but for what I don't know! I'm certainly notgoing to go bonefishing with a two weight, nor will any of these 7"Joisey stocker brownies take me into the backing (of which it holdsabout 50 yards)! I will give it one thing though... The reel is aboutas smoooooth as a twenty five year old single malt! Dennis marty wrote: bob maulucci wrote: I would have to say my Abel TR-1 I have is the best reel I have pickedup. (that includes a Billy Pate salmon reel I have too.) Thoseserpentine handled knock offs are not the same quality as the Abel nomatter how cool they look. I agree with Rick's "Wow" factor idea.There is just a weight/feel thing that I get from the Abel. I don'tget that from the Ballans or Peerless. I would buy a bigger Abel formy cane rods, but I am not convinced that it looks right. The TR-1 isonly big enough for a 2 or 3 wt.Do you guys get the "wow" factor from the Ballans or Peerless?Anyone have an Adams or a $500 Saracione Mark I ? Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.comI have Adams , Peerless, Ballan, Orvis CFOII, Hardy Lightweights. Ofthe "serpentine Handle" nockoffs the Adams and Peerless are the best.These Traditional looking reels are OK on longer cane rods but on shortstuff nothing beats the CFO click series and Hardy Lightweight series perfects. They always reminded me of a "Tank", way more reel than youneed. I also dislike for trout rods of any material reels with diskdrags. If you can't land any trout with a click check drag you might aswell go home. Marty from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Mar 27 19:24:10 2000 Subject: Belding Corticelli Silk Thread I have some original B/C silk thread (Size A, 100 yds) in several colors for sale. Contact OFF LIST only! --Rich rmargiotta@aol.com from FISHWOOL@aol.com Mon Mar 27 20:33:54 2000 Subject: Re: RE: Sanding Blank Amen to that, Darryl.I can't really tell any difference in the power fibers from enamel to inner apex of each tip strip. On butts and or mids I would estimate I could remove up to .010" without beginning to get into areas where shades ofpith begin to appear and on some there is no discernible gradation all the way through. Of course removing .010" from each strip "might" change the taper somewhat. :-)Regards,Hank. from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Mar 27 21:55:27 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:56:08 -0600 Subject: Whatisit ? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00 Well, I've lucked out again ! I received a beautiful "Doublebuilt" rod =today, I picked up off eBay ! I managed an almost mint So. Bend D.B. a =few months ago, and now this one. It has nothing on it, except the word =Doublebuilt in white ink script, reading away from the smallish Wells =style grip. Were it not for the name on it, the swelled butt, says it's a Heddon ! =The ferrules are machined N.S., with a rather wide, rounded welts. They =have the waterproofing plug inside the females too ! In contrast the =reel seat is alum. with a down locking chromed ring, pushing a chromed, =knurled ring to hold the reel. The wraps are bright yellow, with black tipping. Only the butt section =finish shows nicks in the varnish, as though bounced around on a metal =boat seat ! It's 8'-3-1/4" and feels to be a 6 wt., but not the fast =tip, the stiff butt would indicate. It flexes well into the top of the =butt section. It is a 3 - piece rod. In general the whole rod reeks of high quality, and came from an estate =that included an Orvis Superfine, and Hardy reels ! Anyone have a clue ? GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00 Well, I've lucked out again ! I received a beautiful = rod today, I picked up off eBay ! I managed an almost mint So. Bend D.B. = months ago, and now this one. It has nothing on it, except the word = grip. Were it not for the name on it, the swelled butt, says it's = Heddon ! The ferrules are machined N.S., with a rather wide, rounded = have the waterproofing plug inside the females too ! In contrast the = is alum. with a down locking chromed ring, pushing a chromed, knurled = hold the reel. The wraps are bright yellow, with black tipping. Only the = section finish shows nicks in the varnish, as though bounced around on a = boat seat ! It's 8'-3-1/4" and feels to be a 6 wt., but not the fast = stiff butt would indicate. It flexes well into the top of the butt = is a 3 - piece rod. In general the whole rod reeks of high quality, and came = estate that included an Orvis Superfine, and Hardy reels =! Anyone have a clue ? GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00-- from mschaffer@mindspring.com Tue Mar 28 08:01:37 2000 Subject: Addy for old rod companies boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700 Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email addresses for the following rod =companies could you please send them along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700 Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email = the following rod companies could you please send them =along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700-- from earsdws@duke.edu Tue Mar 28 08:07:08 2000 JAA14696; Subject: Re: just curious Brian,I couldn't agree with you more. Last year I spent several days fishing aHardy CC DeFrance (8', 5wt) on the San Juan in New Mexico. My fore armwasthrobbing from trying to keep the tip of the rod up (with Orvis CFO IV). Itis much better now that I have "balanced" it out with an old PfulgerMedalist(given the size it was probably intended to be an 8 wt).One very "attractive" aspect of the newer graphite rods is that, withvirtually any reel, you ever have this problem.dws. Brian Sturrock wrote: Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amountofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Mar 28 08:31:48 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:31:23 +0800 Subject: Re: just curious I've sort of resisted getting into this one because I know just aboutnothing about reels in general being of the belief any reel that holdstogether well enough to stay between the fly and rod is good enough formeBUT a nice reel that doesn't cost much and works well is a LeedaDragonfly.It's a cartridge jobie which will turn lots away from it and it also is adisk drag which is nice and smooth so light tippets have a little more of achance and although you certainly don't need the disk drag it adds enoughweight to the reel so it does a nice job of balancing 6.5 - 7.5 foot bamboorods.I have a Hardy Princess which is a ridiculous reel for anybody to stingy tobuy a spare spool for (me) and I like the Dragonfly a lot better to use. Tony At 09:09 AM 3/28/00 -0500, David W. Smith, Ph.D. wrote:Brian,I couldn't agree with you more. Last year I spent several days fishing aHardy CC DeFrance (8', 5wt) on the San Juan in New Mexico. My fore armwasthrobbing from trying to keep the tip of the rod up (with Orvis CFO IV). Itis much better now that I have "balanced" it out with an old PfulgerMedalist(given the size it was probably intended to be an 8 wt).One very "attractive" aspect of the newer graphite rods is that, withvirtually any reel, you ever have this problem.dws. Brian Sturrock wrote: Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amountofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from listreader@codemarine.com Tue Mar 28 08:49:50 2000 codemarine.209.170.128.193 with SMTP (Microsoft ExchangeInternet Mail Service Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: Newbie rod photos Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide thenewbie builders out there (myself included, of course). I finally finishedthe first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos,which you can see at the web site below: http://www.ipass.net/~stevez/bamboorod/index.htm There are a few white speckles and glare spots on the photos due to theflash reflecting from the high-glossvarnish, but I think the shots are good enough to give you the general idea.Any feedback or observations(keeping in mind that this was my first rod) would be appreciated. Again, thanks!! Steve Zimmermansteve@codemarine.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Mar 28 09:56:12 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 07:56:01 -0800 Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos Steve Zimmerman wrote: Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide thenewbie builders out there (myself included, of course). I finally finishedthe first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos,which you can see at the web site below: Congratulations Steve! How does the rod cast? You can't tell us youhaven't tried it out in the front yard!Looks like good work. I strongly suspect #'s 4-6 will be even better. Harry Boyd--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Mar 28 10:49:15 2000 Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos Hi Steve,looks like nice work to me especially for rod #1. I'd hate to show you aphoto of the first one I made in 1978, it was awful!!Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos Steve Zimmerman wrote: Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide the newbie builders out there (myselfincluded, of course). I finally finished the first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos, which you can see at the web sitebelow: Congratulations Steve! How does the rod cast? You can't tell us youhaven't tried it out in the front yard! Looks like good work. I stronglysuspect #'s 4- 6 will be even better. Harry Boyd--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Mar 28 10:57:40 2000 9:05:23 PST Subject: RE: Addy for old rod companies Here you go. I don't know how current they are. Chris Leonard mcgrath@hlleonard.com Payne info@efpayne.com Young troutbum@gtii.com Orvis http://www.orvis.com/store/main_frame.asp?directive=70&subject=31----- -------------Original text Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email addresses for the following rodcompanies could you please send them along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike from darrell@rockclimbing.org Tue Mar 28 11:33:37 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Addy for old rod companies I know F E Thomas is back in biz... their website is: www.fethomas.com Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- MCDOWELL Subject: RE: Addy for old rod companies Here you go. I don't know how current they are. Chris Leonard mcgrath@hlleonard.com Payne info@efpayne.com Young troutbum@gtii.com Orvis http://www.orvis.com/store/main_frame.asp?directive=70&subject=31----- -------------Original text Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email addresses for the following rodcompaniescould you please send them along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 12:59:59 2000 NAA14531 Subject: Hardy Salmon Rod Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Mar 28 13:52:20 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:51:44 -0400 Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos Steve,congratulations on your first rod! Nice job and welcome to theaddiction.Shawn Steve Zimmerman wrote: Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide thenewbie builders out there (myself included, of course). I finally finishedthe first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos,which you can see at the web site below: http://www.ipass.net/~stevez/bamboorod/index.htm There are a few white speckles and glare spots on the photos due to theflash reflecting from the high-glossvarnish, but I think the shots are good enough to give you the general idea.Any feedback or observations(keeping in mind that this was my first rod) would be appreciated. Again, thanks!! Steve Zimmermansteve@codemarine.com from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Mar 28 14:00:14 2000 12:07:58 PST Subject: re: Hardy Salmon Rod I once handled a Phantom "Hollokona" and it's my understanding that Hollokona is Hardy's reference to a hollow built rod. The inscription probably reads "Regd Trade Mark". That is what I've seenon most Hardy's. Chris---------- Original Text ---------- Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from mschaffer@mindspring.com Tue Mar 28 14:24:49 2000 Subject: Newbie rod photos boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF98C9.7D80BA60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF98C9.7D80BA60 Steve,Very nice rod ( from one newbie to another) !!I won't put any pics of mine up because I don't want anyone barfing on =their keyboard!! (G)Congrats buddy!! Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF98C9.7D80BA60 Steve,Very nice rod ( from one newbie to = !!I won't put any pics of mine up because I don't = Congrats buddy!! Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF98C9.7D80BA60-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Mar 28 16:06:37 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:55:13 -0600 Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF98CF.E8A14AC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF98CF.E8A14AC0 Great shots Steve, and obviously allot of TLC has been taken. I prefer =the clear varnish wraps too ! I only hope my first efforts are even =close ! GMA Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 8:50 AMSubject: Newbie rod photos Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you have =provided and continue to provide the newbie builders out there (myself =included, of course). I finally finished the first of the three-piece =rods I began way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning =experience. For the heck of it, I took a few photos, which you can see =at the web site below: http://www.ipass.net/~stevez/bamboorod/index.htm There are a few white speckles and glare spots on the photos due to =the flash reflecting from the high-gloss varnish, but I think the shots =are good enough to give you the general idea. Any feedback or =observations (keeping in mind that this was my first rod) would be =appreciated. Again, thanks!! Steve Zimmermansteve@codemarine.com ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF98CF.E8A14AC0 Great shots Steve, and obviously allot of TLC has been = prefer the clear varnish wraps too ! I only hope my first efforts are = ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Steve Zimmerman = Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 = AMSubject: Newbie rod =photosJust wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the = you have provided and continue to provide the newbie builders out = (myself included, of course). I finally finished the first of the = rods I began way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning = below:http://www.ipas= are a few white speckles and glare spots on the photos due to the = reflecting from the high-gloss varnish, but I think the shots are good = to give you the general idea. Any feedback or observations (keeping in = thanks!!Steve Zimmermansteve@codemarine.com ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF98CF.E8A14AC0-- from harms1@prodigy.net Tue Mar 28 18:04:05 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:03:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Re:just curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF98E8.33ED7D60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF98E8.33ED7D60 Yes, well, that's a different matter. Swinging a long salmon rod, a =heavy line, and large fly is not at all the same thing as trouting with =a seven or seven-and-a-half foot for five-weight line. The issue of a =reel's weight matters enormously in the latter case, but considerably = cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ Subject: Re:just curious Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actually =deadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amount =ofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the =rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with =ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF98E8.33ED7D60 Yes, well, that's a all the same thing as trouting with a seven or seven-and-a-half foot for = latter case, but considerably less so in the former. = cheers, =Bill -----------------------------------------------------Clic= here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/= ----- Original Message --- Sent: Monday, March 27,2000 = PM curious people are = LEAD = ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF98E8.33ED7D60-- from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 19:59:04 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Ian you have been a lot of help. Thanks you. I Have never seen a Hardy ofthisquality. This rod is drop dead gorgeous. Your right there is a number onthereel seat - One the sliding band ...H32398. On the butt there are twocrestsengraved into the gold butt that say" By Appointment " under them. It alsosay's "made by Hardy's england". The rod sack is green and has a snapcoverwhich then is covered with a zippered pouch. On the tube there is a papertagplaced there that says...." Hardy's 'The Hollolight' England King GeorgePrinceof Wales. The Stripper and tip top are clear agate I think? Thanks foryourhelp.......Rich Ian Kearney wrote: Richard, there should be a number or letters on the reel seat , usually next to thename . If you let me know that number I can tell you date of manufacture. I am not sure if this is a salmon rod, unless it has salmon written on thehandle. My records indicate that Hardy only built their hollow salmon rodasa 12 1/2' rod but the trout rod was built between 8' and 10' .( but myrecords could be wrong) "hollokona" is the Brand name for Hardy's hollow built rods, and theyproduced the "hollolite" in both trout and salmon versions between 1960and`1967 . I trust this is of help Ian Kearney At 01:55 PM 28/03/00 -0800, Richard Colo wrote:Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 20:03:08 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Jerry that is a great observation because I have had a few Hardy's and thefinish wasn't even close. Thanks.....Rich Just noticed on top of the 2ndintermediate wrap is "#7". Must be line weight no? Jerry Young wrote: The "Hollokana" is hollow butt construction. This was also true for the"Crown Royal" and"Phantom" rods from the late 50's and 60's. What is the serial number?I have the Hardy factory codes and can date the rod for you. Serial #was numerical, some times with a letter prefex. After 1965 it was twoletters, ie: C/K is translated to March 1970. You will have no way ofknowing but many rods in that period, especially salmon rods wereactually built by Asbjorn Horgard, in Norway, for Hardy. Horgard madesolid, hollowbuilt and doublebuilt for Hardy. Might be the reason forthe fine finish. Regards, Jerry Young from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 20:05:44 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Thanks Chris, your right it say's Regd Trade Mark....Rich CHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL wrote: I once handled a Phantom "Hollokona" and it's my understanding thatHollokona is Hardy's reference to a hollow built rod. The inscription probably reads "Regd Trade Mark". That is what I've seenonmost Hardy's. Chris---------- Original Text ---------- From: "Richard Colo" , on 3/28/00 1:55 PM: Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from dblanken@rica.net Tue Mar 28 20:09:36 2000 0000 Subject: Anyone have taper for PY Para 16? Greetings to rodmakers!! I am looking for the taper for a Paul Young Para16? I have seen it mentioned in archives, but, no numbers. Anyone havethe taper? How does it compare to other Young rods? Thanks to all forsuch a great resource! David Blankenship from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 20:16:01 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Thanks so much Tim. I know sometimes I want to respond but with mytyping sopoor don't have the energy. Appreciate your going through the trouble. Itsays"Hololight". I think Ian may be right about it not being a Salmon Rodbecausethe reel seat is a sliding gold band into the classic Hardy inset. The restofthe reel seat is all cork with a gold cap. Thanks again.....Rich Watson's wrote: Richard,Does it say Hollolite or Hollowlight?Hardy's made a trout and a salmon version of their Hollokona fly rods. AsIdon't have a scanner ( this is when I really wish I did) I'll give you thebook verbatim++++++++++++++++++HARDY'S HOLLOKONA FLY RODSThesefly rods designed a the result of a recent and importantdevelopment inthe manufacture of split cane differ from our range of Palakona rods inthatthey are constructed on the 'hollow- built' principle, thereby combiningextreme lightness with maximum strengthand correctness of action. Afterpatent and exhaustive research and experiment we have devised methodsofconstruction of hollow split cane where the rod is appreciablylighterbut,most important, NO STRENGTH IS LOST. These rods are a veritablemiracle oflightness combined with strength and delicay of action, and are truly adelight for the discriminating angle to use (Specification of Trout Rod) No 27THE HOLLOLITE SALMON FLY RODAction A 12'6" double handed rod in which great power is combinedwith extreme lightness, finished with elegance and refinement.Pieces Three with one or two tops.'Palakona' split cane.Handle Cork 23 1/2"Joints StudlockRings Butt and end Agatipe, intermediate 'Fullopen' bridgeTyings Ordinary spaced gold silk, splint ends coper wire tipped black,rings gold silk black tippedReel Fittings and FurnishingsAdjustable screw-grip with fixed 'W' housing, gold anodised.'L.R.H' button.Container Showerproof bag with zip fastenerLength 12 1/2'Weight Approx 16ozs 7dr.+++++++++++++++++++++++++My books show that it was made between 1960 & 1966 which wouldmake thenumber on the rod somewhere between H27534 and H69101 or simply anA if itwere late '66.Hope all this helpsTim. ----- Original Message -----From: Richard Colo Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 10:55 PMSubject: Hardy Salmon Rod Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 28 20:38:44 2000 Subject: Hardy Rod Ian the model number is #17 on the rod. At first I thought it wasnumber #7- the line weight. Rich from darrell@rockclimbing.org Tue Mar 28 20:58:30 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Hardy Salmon Rod rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu I've added the Hardy serial number chart to my website. Here's the page... http://vfish.net/hardy.htm Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Ian you have been a lot of help. Thanks you. I Have never seen a Hardy ofthisquality. This rod is drop dead gorgeous. Your right there is a number onthereel seat - One the sliding band ...H32398. On the butt there are twocrestsengraved into the gold butt that say" By Appointment " under them. It alsosay's "made by Hardy's england". The rod sack is green and has a snapcoverwhich then is covered with a zippered pouch. On the tube there is a papertagplaced there that says...." Hardy's 'The Hollolight' England King GeorgePrinceof Wales. The Stripper and tip top are clear agate I think? Thanks foryourhelp.......Rich Ian Kearney wrote: Richard, there should be a number or letters on the reel seat , usually next to thename . If you let me know that number I can tell you date of manufacture. I am not sure if this is a salmon rod, unless it has salmon written on thehandle. My records indicate that Hardy only built their hollow salmon rodasa 12 1/2' rod but the trout rod was built between 8' and 10' .( but myrecords could be wrong) "hollokona" is the Brand name for Hardy's hollow built rods, and theyproduced the "hollolite" in both trout and salmon versions between 1960and`1967 . I trust this is of help Ian Kearney At 01:55 PM 28/03/00 -0800, Richard Colo wrote:Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Mar 29 01:26:19 2000 SMTP id TAA14590; Wed, 29 Mar 2000 19:25:59 +1200 Ian Kearney ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Hardy Salmon Rod Rich, That number would make it a 1960 rod. I have a 1960 cc de france with thesame type of bag , so that must be the type they were using at that time. Hardy rods are nicely made and well finished. Itis a pity that they tend tobe a little "heavy" compared to the tapers from the USA. If you measuretheflats you will probably find that they are all within .002 . Most of theHardy's I have seen have the 3 by 3 node spacing , which is why i use it .(and also because it is the easiest to set out) regards Ian Kearney At 08:54 PM 28/03/00 -0800, Richard Colo wrote:Ian you have been a lot of help. Thanks you. I Have never seen a Hardy ofthisquality. This rod is drop dead gorgeous. Your right there is a number onthereel seat - One the sliding band ...H32398. On the butt there are twocrestsengraved into the gold butt that say" By Appointment " under them. Italsosay's "made by Hardy's england". The rod sack is green and has a snapcoverwhich then is covered with a zippered pouch. On the tube there is a papertagplaced there that says...." Hardy's 'The Hollolight' England King GeorgePrinceof Wales. The Stripper and tip top are clear agate I think? Thanks foryourhelp.......Rich Ian Kearney wrote: Richard, there should be a number or letters on the reel seat , usually next to thename . If you let me know that number I can tell you date ofmanufacture. I am not sure if this is a salmon rod, unless it has salmon written onthehandle. My records indicate that Hardy only built their hollow salmonrod asa 12 1/2' rod but the trout rod was built between 8' and 10' .( but myrecords could be wrong) "hollokona" is the Brand name for Hardy's hollow built rods, and theyproduced the "hollolite" in both trout and salmon versions between 1960and`1967 . I trust this is of help Ian Kearney At 01:55 PM 28/03/00 -0800, Richard Colo wrote:Hi folks, need some help. Just had a beautiful Hardy Salmon Roddropped off at my office. The inscription on the rod is " TheHollowlight" "Hollokona" half of the next inscription is covered bythe wind but it says. (I think) Regd Grade Mark. It is 10' 3 piece andhas intermediate winds every 1 inch. Has silver ferrule plugs. Thehardware is anodized black for the ferrules and gold on the reel seatwhich is their inset in cork type. The rod is in almost unfishedcondition. Varnish is immaculate. Don't remember Hardy's finishesbeing this good. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.....Rich from jbperez@mi.madritel.es Wed Mar 29 16:51:53 2000 (Netscape Messaging Server 3.5) with SMTP id AAA5100 +0200 Subject: test boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF99E1.FB397000" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF99E1.FB397000 test ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF99E1.FB397000 test ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF99E1.FB397000-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Mar 29 16:57:55 2000 (5.0.1459.74) Subject: THE BOOK I followed the link provided and ordered Garrison's book fromwww.wildadv.com yesterday. I was not familiar with the company so Iwasa little leery. Was pleased to see that they offer free shipping withinternet orders. Shortly after I ordered I received an emailconfirmation of my order. This morning I received email confirmationthat the book had been shipped via USPS Priority mail. I mention allthis only because a company that provides good service deserves to bementioned. Now let's just hope I actually get the book in 2-3 days. from jbperez@mi.madritel.es Wed Mar 29 17:50:48 2000 (Netscape Messaging Server 3.5) with SMTP id AAA57E9 +0200 Subject: tanks boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF99EA.54CBC2A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF99EA.54CBC2A0 tanks to all listmembers for verify my "test message"greetings from Spain ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF99EA.54CBC2A0 = message" Spain ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF99EA.54CBC2A0-- from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu Mar 30 08:19:00 2000 GAA18771 ESMTP for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Thu, 30 Mar 2000 06:19:06 -0800 (5.5.2650.21) no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow up somethingin my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from mrmac@tcimet.net Thu Mar 30 09:19:45 2000 HAA26040; Subject: Re: I think everyone but us has gone fishing. It's been a slow list. Maybe we shouldsay something nice about GG's rods, something demeaning about a certainCanadian rodmaker, therelative beauty of graphite rods, or something along one of those lines to"promotedialogue". ;-) Just kidding, here, really.....c'mon now. It just gets lonely with no list. Leaves menothing to do but....work. How disgusting. To keep it rodmaking related: When the salon boards I mentioned forfinishing wraps betweencoats loaded up, I tried to clean them with acetone. Bad move/good move. The abrasive stripcomes off. BUT - now I can use the double sided scotch tape to put on1200 grit. Thecushioned board does well for me on wraps or on more rounded older rods. flats, a stiffer backing is probably better. I found a bowling ball page thatmentions thestuff (micro mesh) should outlast sandpaper something like 15X, but youhave to use it wet.Will try water next time. (There - now it's a rodmaking related post!) regards to anyone left on dry land - mac "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow upsomething in my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu Mar 30 09:39:48 2000 (5.0.1459.74) Subject: RE: Slow List/Salon Boards I'm in the same boat. No stack of interesting email means getting downto work. I was considering trying your "salon boards" idea, the micromesh sounds interesting. But I also saw in the woodworking store lastweek a set of sanders that consist of a plastic stick, around which youwrap a skinny band of sandpaper. The stick has a spring inserted tokeep tension on the band of paper, one end is simply rounded, the otherend is configured as a long, skinny right triangle, with a rounded nose.Gives you almost infinite options for shaping. I didn't see whetherpaper was available in really fine grits like you'd need for finishing. On another cane-related topic, I taped some guides on my current project(an old Montague I have modified) and cast it a bit last night. It's noWinston, but it was casting 30' of WF5 pretty good. I was getting somepretty bad tailing loops unless my timing was perfect, but I'm not surewhether that was the rod or me (probably both). I think it'll do evenbetter with a 6wt line. This rod was a 9' 3piece. I cut the buttsection in half, making it 7-1/2'. Did a very minor amount of sandingon the tip section which seems to have improved its action a little bit.But at this point almost all of the action is in the tip section. Evenwhen I grabbed the line and put a good fighting bend in it, the midflexed very little. So I'm toying with taking the sandpaper (or perhapsan emery board) to the mid and bringing the taper down a little bitthere as well. I was hoping to get it wrapped and varnished and use itthis weekend, but think I better slow down and think about it some more. -----Original Message-----From: Ralph MacKenzie [SMTP:mrmac@tcimet.net]Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 8:19 AM Cc: 'rodmakers'Subject: Re: I think everyone but us has gone fishing. It's been aslow list. Maybe we shouldsay something nice about GG's rods, something demeaning about acertain Canadian rodmaker, therelative beauty of graphite rods, or something along one of thoselines to "promotedialogue". ;-) Just kidding, here, really.....c'mon now. It just gets lonely with nolist. Leaves menothing to do but....work. How disgusting. To keep it rodmaking related: When the salon boards I mentioned forfinishing wraps betweencoats loaded up, I tried to clean them with acetone. Bad move/goodmove. The abrasive stripcomes off. BUT - now I can use the double sided scotch tape to put on1200 grit. Thecushioned board does well for me on wraps or on more rounded olderrods. For rods with goodflats, a stiffer backing is probably better. I found a bowling ballpage that mentions thestuff (micro mesh) should outlast sandpaper something like 15X, butyou have to use it wet.Will try water next time. (There - now it's a rodmaking relatedpost!) regards to anyone left on dry land - mac "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow upsomething in my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from sniderja@email.uc.edu Thu Mar 30 09:43:21 2000 Subject: Re: Regarding sanding guide wraps, I have been using 1500 and/or 2000 gritsandpaper and wet sanding (using mineral spirits). For me, this seems todoa better job than simply using water.J. Snider At 10:18 AM 03/30/2000 -0500, Ralph MacKenzie wrote:I think everyone but us has gone fishing. It's been a slow list. Maybe we shouldsay something nice about GG's rods, something demeaning about a certain Canadian rodmaker, therelative beauty of graphite rods, or something along one of those lines to "promotedialogue". ;-) Just kidding, here, really.....c'mon now. It just gets lonely with no list. Leaves menothing to do but....work. How disgusting. To keep it rodmaking related: When the salon boards I mentioned for finishing wraps betweencoats loaded up, I tried to clean them with acetone. Bad move/good move. The abrasive stripcomes off. BUT - now I can use the double sided scotch tape to put on1200 grit. Thecushioned board does well for me on wraps or on more rounded older rods. flats, a stiffer backing is probably better. I found a bowling ball page that mentions thestuff (micro mesh) should outlast sandpaper something like 15X, but youhave to use it wet.Will try water next time. (There - now it's a rodmaking related post!) regards to anyone left on dry land - mac "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow upsomething in my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from rsgould@cmc.net Thu Mar 30 09:47:35 2000 Subject: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF9A1C.25F8FE20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF9A1C.25F8FE20 Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if you =were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing =what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF9A1C.25F8FE20 Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made.= the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern for your = trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BF9A1C.25F8FE20-- from edriddle@mindspring.com Thu Mar 30 09:48:40 2000 Subject: Re: sanding tool Mac:I'm reading into this that maybe your fish-stalking stealth isn't advancedenough to allow you to snitch the bride's credit card for use in making afinishing tool...heh heh heh.Ed-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: I think everyone but us has gone fishing. It's been a slowlist. Maybe we shouldsay something nice about GG's rods, something demeaning about a certainCanadian rodmaker, therelative beauty of graphite rods, or something along one of those lines to"promotedialogue". ;-) Just kidding, here, really.....c'mon now. It just gets lonely with nolist. Leaves menothing to do but....work. How disgusting. To keep it rodmaking related: When the salon boards I mentioned forfinishing wraps betweencoats loaded up, I tried to clean them with acetone. Bad move/good move.The abrasive stripcomes off. BUT - now I can use the double sided scotch tape to put on1200grit. Thecushioned board does well for me on wraps or on more rounded older rods. flats, a stiffer backing is probably better. I found a bowling ball pagethat mentions thestuff (micro mesh) should outlast sandpaper something like 15X, but youhave to use it wet.Will try water next time. (There - now it's a rodmaking related post!) regards to anyone left on dry land - mac "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow upsomething in my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from martinj@aa.net Thu Mar 30 09:58:10 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:58:03 -0800 "'rodmakers'" Subject: RE: got you message. I am building another rod how about you? Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- W Subject: no email from the list this morning, is it down or did I blow up somethingin my confuser. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from kbuch@mail.stlnet.com Thu Mar 30 10:13:48 2000 Subject: Re: One Fly Ray, In Missouri that would be either a Elk Hair Caddis, or a Wooly Bugger. Kevin from tfinger@services.state.mo.us Thu Mar 30 10:19:20 2000 Subject: Reel Seats Since several people have noted that list traffic is slow right now, I'll throw in this question that I have been thinking about for the last several years. I grew up fishing in the 60's, and back then nearly all the new and old quality rods (Orvis, Leonard, etc.), production rods, and fiberglass rods that I used or saw had either down-locking threaded reel seats or cap and ring seats with the ring sliding down to lock the reel into a butt cap. Now, on both plastic and bamboo rods, there seems to be a much higher percentage of up- locking seats. (and I'm aware that some very high quality rods of the past also had uplocking seats) Undoubtedly because of a personal bias formed during my early years, I find up-locking seats unattractive and I don't see why they have become so prevalent. I suppose they do create a mini fighting butt that we all wish we needed more often, but the butt normally just serves to catch a loop of fly line when retrieving and shooting line. It also seems easier to get dirt in the threads of an uplocking seat when the rod is leaned up against something. So, my question is why the increase in uplocking seats? Is it just style, or are there advantages that I'm not seeing? Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from rmoon@ida.net Thu Mar 30 11:09:32 2000 0000 Subject: Re: One Fly Ray Have you nothing better to do than stir up controversy? LOL. Anywaythere is really only one answer. The Renegade. The hatch iscontinuous, omnipresent and everlasting. Fish it dry or fish it wet.It simulates a dun, an emerger, a nymph. Yes sir the only one fly thereis.Ralph from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Thu Mar 30 11:25:14 2000 0000 2000 09:25:10 PST Subject: Re: One Fly In the east (Pennsylvania) Wolf coachman ... simulatesexactly nothing but is similar to much that hatchesthroughout the Spring and Summer, and into Fall. --- Ray Gould wrote:Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here'sthe question - if you were limited to one single flypattern for your spring trout fishing what would itbe?Ray __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 30 11:53:04 2000 Subject: Hardy Reel Need more help folks. Have a old Hardy Princess that has the handlefrozen so it doesn't spin. What's the best way to go about freeing itup? It has a rivet not a bolt that keeps it on. Rich from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Thu Mar 30 12:20:44 2000Received: frombookworm.suffolk.lib.ny.us (rperry@bookworm.suffolk.lib.ny.us Subject: Re: Hardy Reel Hi Richard, Try some penetrating oil, let it soak in, then grab/twist with one of therubber made screw top removers. You may have to gently use pliersin addition to the rubber thingie (technical name) to get a bettergrip. Haven't seen one I couldn't loosen yet. Regards, Bobflysupplies@yahoo.comflysupplies.homepage.com/ On Thu, 30 Mar 2000, Richard Colo wrote: Need more help folks. Have a old Hardy Princess that has the handlefrozen so it doesn't spin. What's the best way to go about freeing itup? It has a rivet not a bolt that keeps it on. Rich from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Mar 30 13:13:18 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:17:41 -0600 Subject: Re: Slow List/Salon Boards I have a couple of these sticks. They do well in tight places. I have notbeen able to find real fine grit belts for them. If you do find a sourceplease let me know.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com James wrote: But I also saw in the woodworking store lastweek a set of sanders that consist of a plastic stick, around which youwrap a skinny band of sandpaper. The stick has a spring inserted tokeep tension on the band of paper, one end is simply rounded, the otherend is configured as a long, skinny right triangle, with a rounded nose.Gives you almost infinite options for shaping. I didn't see whetherpaper was available in really fine grits like you'd need for finishing. from yves@dancris.com Thu Mar 30 13:29:12 2000 Subject: Re: One Fly Ray: How about an orange wooly bugger - if you don't mind dragging a fullsink line - no kidding, it works. And thanks again for sending along thoseguide spacings. Dave At 07:47 AM 3/30/00 -0800, Ray Gould wrote:Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if youwere limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing whatwould it be? Ray from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Mar 30 13:42:13 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:46:36 -0600 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="------------4B6C83DFA3400FA8C433F96B" --------------4B6C83DFA3400FA8C433F96B Ray,As much as I dislike woolly buggers, the ChiliPepper will have to be the one for me. It is aloud copper chenille Woolly bugger with a Fireorange head or a Fire orange collar behind a goldbead for the bead head version.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com. Ray Gould wrote: Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Nowhere's the question - if you were limited to onesingle fly pattern for your spring trout fishingwhat would it be?Ray --------------4B6C83DFA3400FA8C433F96B Ray,As much as I dislike woolly buggers, the Chili Pepper will have tobe the one for me. It is a loud copper chenille Woolly bugger with a Fireorange head or a Fire orange collar behind a gold bead for the bead headversion. Ray Gould wrote: Ok.Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if you werelimited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing what wouldit be?Ray --------------4B6C83DFA3400FA8C433F96B-- from ernie2@pacbell.net Thu Mar 30 14:01:03 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: One Fly I do use only one fly, "The California Nugget".Ernie -----Original Message----- Subject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if youwerelimited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing what wouldit be?Ray from ernie2@pacbell.net Thu Mar 30 14:01:04 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Reel Seats I prefer uplocking for two reasons:1. It keeps the reel out of the dirt when you set the rod down.2. It keeps my hand on the grip when I get tired and let it slide down.Ernie -----Original Message----- Subject: Reel Seats Since several people have noted that list traffic is slow right now, I'll throw in this question that I have been thinking about for the last several years. I grew up fishing in the 60's, and back then nearly all the new and old quality rods (Orvis, Leonard, etc.), production rods, and fiberglass rods that I used or saw had either down-locking threaded reel seats or cap and ring seats with the ring sliding down to lock the reel into a butt cap. Now, on both plastic and bamboo rods, there seems to be a much higher percentage of up- locking seats. (and I'm aware that some very high quality rods of the past also had uplocking seats) Undoubtedly because of a personal bias formed during my early years, I find up-locking seats unattractive and I don't see why they have become so prevalent. I suppose they do create a mini fighting butt that we all wish we needed more often, but the butt normally just serves to catch a loop of fly line when retrieving and shooting line. It also seems easier to get dirt in the threads of an uplocking seat when the rod is leaned up against something. So, my question is why the increase in uplocking seats? Is it just style, or are there advantages that I'm not seeing? Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from dpizza@access1.net Thu Mar 30 14:18:55 2000 (SMTPD32-5.05) id A668440278; Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:17:44 -0800 Subject: Portland ?? How many people on the "list" are in the Portland area ?? Please contactmeoff list. Thankyou, David from briansr@point-net.com Thu Mar 30 14:43:41 2000 Subject: One fly Hi folksMy one fly Cheers Brian from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Thu Mar 30 14:54:38 2000 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_038B_01BF9A60.9CB2E190" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_038B_01BF9A60.9CB2E190 Little black stonefly for MA, NH, ME area Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 10:47 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if =you were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing =what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_038B_01BF9A60.9CB2E190 Little black stonefly for MA, NH, area ----- Original Message ----- Ray =Gould = Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 = AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are = the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern for your = trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_038B_01BF9A60.9CB2E190-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 30 15:01:53 2000 jubilee.ns.sympatico.ca(Post.Office MTA v3.5.2 release 221 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:01:13 -0400 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="------------93BD6614479AA80D173D67CE" --------------93BD6614479AA80D173D67CE In Nova Scotia, Goddard caddis, year round! Royal Wulff also Shawn Ray Gould wrote: Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - ifyou were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring troutfishing what would it be?Ray --------------93BD6614479AA80D173D67CE In Nova Scotia, Goddard caddis, year round! Royal Wulff also ShawnRay Gould wrote: Ok.Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if you werelimited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing what wouldit be?Ray --------------93BD6614479AA80D173D67CE-- from sniderja@email.uc.edu Thu Mar 30 15:07:17 2000 Subject: Re: One fly Well,if I am fishing the north slope of the Brooks Range in AK for grayling, a#18 Griffith's Gnat.If I am fishing the Missouri River in Montana, a #16 winged ant (and if Ithought you believed this I would have said it!), if on a farm pond forbluegills and bass, a HUGE (#6-8) brown foam rubber spider with orangerubber legs and a squirrel tail tail (also great for stream smallmouth), ifI am fishing Smoky Mtn streams, a small (#16) elk hair caddis or a #18minktail caddis with pheasant tail body and traditional hackle, ....Using one fly is like using only one rod_been there, done that, ain't fun!Jerry Snider At 03:43 PM 03/30/2000 -0500, Brian Sturrock wrote:Hi folksMy one fly Cheers Brian from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Mar 30 15:40:30 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF9A4D.446E45A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF9A4D.446E45A0 Powerbait... Just kidding! Darrell----- Original Message -----From: Ray Gould Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 10:47 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if youwere limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing whatwould it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF9A4D.446E45A0 Powerbait... kidding! Darrell ----- Original Message ----- Ray =Gould = Sent: Thursday, March 30, = AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are = here's the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern = spring trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF9A4D.446E45A0-- from fiveside@net-gate.com Thu Mar 30 15:46:00 2000 SMTP id QAA28731 for ; Thu, 30 Mar 2000 Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go. Bill PS This should liven up the list from briansr@point-net.com Thu Mar 30 15:57:21 2000 Subject: Re one fly To Darrel Lee LOL great post.I almost fell out of my chairCheers still laughing Brian from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu Mar 30 16:09:28 2000 OAA11392 ESMTP for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:09:24 -0800 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: gehrke or jerk or something What ever happened to George Gehrkes great bamboo flyrod revaluation andbreak throughs, it seems to have goneaway. I looked at his site and his price is up to 600. I was on strike for amonth or two and I was wonderingif something happened while I was away. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Mar 30 16:17:12 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:05:39 -0600 Subject: Re: Rod Restorers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_006F_01BF9A63.B62CEAA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01BF9A63.B62CEAA0 O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high quality =rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier welted =than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, =w/ ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The =only I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, reading away from =the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward the =photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01BF9A63.B62CEAA0 O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very = quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier = than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, = hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The only I.D. = is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, reading away from the =grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to = the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01BF9A63.B62CEAA0-- from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Thu Mar 30 16:19:13 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:16:16 -0600 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I need that projection to hang the rod in the holders mounted in the ceiling of my RV. =8-0Jon ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Locks, Up and Down Author: at Internet-Mail To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking thereby shortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpockets to accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline? Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go. Bill PS This should liven up the list from lars32@gateway.net Thu Mar 30 16:27:00 2000 (may be forged)) Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF9A65.AE78F400" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF9A65.AE78F400 orange scud or prince nymphDave-----Original Message-----From: Darrell A. Lee Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 3:46 PMSubject: RE: One Fly Powerbait... Just kidding! Darrell Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 10:47 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the =question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring =trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF9A65.AE78F400 orange scud or prince =nymphDave -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= FlyPowerbait... Just kidding! Darrell ----- Original Message ----- = Sent: Thursday, March = 10:47 AMSubject: One =Fly Ok. Winter is over. The = Now here's the question - if you were limited to one single = pattern for your spring trout fishing what would it =be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF9A65.AE78F400-- from martinj@aa.net Thu Mar 30 16:29:40 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:29:35 -0800 Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line while casting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for one thingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than the reel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you neversetyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork it fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up locking ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks with butthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my rod on.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee "itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go. BillPS This should liven up the list from lars32@gateway.net Thu Mar 30 16:38:37 2000 (may be forged)) Subject: John Bokstrom boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0057_01BF9A67.4A61DDE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01BF9A67.4A61DDE0 I reviewed issue #38 and after reading the last issue of the Planing =Form with his latest on dealing with nodes decided to try his method. =After numerous E-mails to John and numerous patient responses I tryed =his method for the first time. The final product is in the string = I will never use any other way. Soaking the strips is a great way to =deal with those pesky nodes. Thanks for all the info and help John. Dave Norling ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01BF9A67.4A61DDE0 I reviewed issue #38 and after = issue of the Planing Form with his latest on dealing with nodes decided = his method. After numerous E-mails to John and numerous patient = tryed his method for the first time. The final product is in the string = to be glued. I will never use any other way. = strips is a great way to deal with those pesky nodes. Thanks for all the info and ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01BF9A67.4A61DDE0-- from caneman@clnk.com Thu Mar 30 16:44:08 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:40:37 -0600 Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down boundary="----=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF9A66.DB879220" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF9A66.DB879220 I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reel =seats on light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an Aluminum DL =on this "gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time to work =on it), but all of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tangle the =line up on ME and my fishing partner... I sure don't need either hook =keeper or and extra inch of butt section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line while =casting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for one =thingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than the =reel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you never=setyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork it =fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you =arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up locking =ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying to =wrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks with =butthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my =rod on.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee ="itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest =answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly cork =pocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle the =line?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely =longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go. =BillPS This should liven up the list ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF9A66.DB879220 going to put an Aluminum DL on this "gator" rod I am building = myself (if I ever get time to work on it), but all of my trout rods get = don't need either hook keeper or and extra inch of butt section sticking = do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message-----From:= rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Original = rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking = rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly cork ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF9A66.DB879220-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu Mar 30 16:50:42 2000 (5.0.1459.74) Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I'm with Bob on this one. Give me a cap and ring. Anything that holdsmy reel too securely in place might result in less time spent dinkingwith my equipment. Remember, time spent spent dinking with equipmentisnot counted against your allotment on this earth. I also like thedangerous feeling you get first thing every morning at streamside,wondering whether that silly little friction fit ring is really gonnastay in place all day. It always does, but it's nice to feel likeyou're living dangerously for a moment or two every day. You also getthe same feeling with every hawg you tie in to, wondering whether thatvibration in your hand is just the click pawl at high speed, or whetherits your reel bouncing around on the reel seat. Ahhhhhh, the thrills offlyfishing. Gawd, I need to go fishing. :-) -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley [SMTP:caneman@clnk.com]Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 3:42 PM rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reelseats on light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an AluminumDL on this "gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time towork on it), but all of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tanglethe line up on ME and my fishing partner... I sure don't need eitherhook keeper or and extra inch of butt section sticking out to do that!:^) Bob-----Original Message-----From: aa.net > rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu >Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 4:30 PMSubject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line whilecasting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for onethingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other thanthe reel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, younever setyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out corkit fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If youarefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the uplocking ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks withbutthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set myrod on.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee"itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu [ ]On Behalf Of Bill FinkSent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatestanswer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplockingtherebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barelylongenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way togo. BillPS This should liven up the list from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Mar 30 17:13:00 2000 Fri, 31 Mar 2000 07:12:13 +0800 Subject: Re: Reel Seats They don't undo by themselves quite as easily as downlocking. Tony At 10:23 AM 3/30/00 +0000, Terry Finger wrote: Since several people have noted that list traffic is slow right now, I'll throw in this question that I have been thinking about for the last several years. I grew up fishing in the 60's, and back then nearly all the new and old quality rods (Orvis, Leonard, etc.), production rods, and fiberglass rods that I used or saw had either down-locking threaded reel seats or cap and ring seats with the ring sliding down to lock the reel into a butt cap. Now, on both plastic and bamboo rods, there seems to be a much higher percentage of up- locking seats. (and I'm aware that some very high quality rods of the past also had uplocking seats) Undoubtedly because of a personal bias formed during my early years, I find up-locking seats unattractive and I don't see why they have become so prevalent. I suppose they do create a mini fighting butt that we all wish we needed more often, but the butt normally just serves to catch a loop of fly line when retrieving and shooting line. It also seems easier to get dirt in the threads of an uplocking seat when the rod is leaned up against something. So, my question is why the increase in uplocking seats? Is it just style, or are there advantages that I'm not seeing? Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from jbperez@mi.madritel.es Thu Mar 30 17:20:35 2000 (Netscape Messaging Server 3.5) with SMTP id AAA1FD0;Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:19:55 +0200 Subject: RE: Hello Hello John:at this time I am beginning to manufacture my first rod.In fact I am manufacturing two cattanach 7 ' #4 in two pieces, one rod formy and another for my uncle.I have already cut the bamboo and I have enough "wood" to make splices tobegin to hit strips.as you see I will use the nodeless assembly , at the same time I ammanufacturing myself some tools like a beveller and a binder. received through the members of the list, keeping in mind that in Spainthere are not so many resources neither so much information on thisbeautiful liking.I want to cheer up to that begin your first cane, if I am able to make it inspite of the difficulties and the ignorance, your can also make it.I thank then to all the members of your list help they are the culprits ofmaking my dream reality.Although I am beginner it has my help for what you need. a strong hug and good fishing Juan B. Perez ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hello Hello Juan, Are you a bamboo rod maker in Spain? I live in Colorado inthe USA. I am not a rod maker yet but I plan to try making a bamboo rodsoon.I have learned alot by subscribing to this list. John Barber from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Mar 30 17:32:39 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Rod Restorers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9A5B.C2D7FEA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9A5B.C2D7FEA0 George, I think I almost bid on that rod... I just pulled out my Montague Powerbuilt50 and it has "Double Built" in white (yellowed) script written on it and ithas a swelled butt as well. Send me the photos and let me look at them... I'll probably regret not having sniped you!!! 8^) Cross, Monty, South Bend and a few others had double built rods, but I can'trecall any other maker except Montague with the white script lettering... Ithink South Bend used a decal to designate the Doublebuilt construction.Actually I thought the lettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out rod for... At 8' 3" that is a very unusual length... it might have been cut down...maybe that's why I didn't bid on it... My rod's windings colors aredifferent, perhaps you have a Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35... The Monty Powerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. Igot mine from Carmine a couple of months back and it was the first onehe'sever seen! Does your rod have a SL reel seat with very fine threads? Anyway, a pic isworth... Later, Darrell Leewww.vFish.Net for collectors and rodmakers -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 PM Subject: Re: Rod Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high qualityrod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier welted thanI've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, w/ ringhook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The only I.D. onit, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward thephotos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9A5B.C2D7FEA0 George, think I almost bid on that rod... I just pulled out my Montague = and it has "Double Built" in white (yellowed) script written on it and = them... 8^) Monty, South Bend and a few others had double built rods, but I can't = other maker except Montague with the white script lettering... I think = Bend used a decal to designate the Doublebuilt construction. Actually I = the lettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out for the first = while... I think I paid 3X more than you got that rod =for... 3" that is a very unusual length... it might have been cut down... maybe = why I didn't bid on it... My rod's windings colors are different, = have a Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35... Monty Powerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. I = from Carmine a couple of months back and it was the first one he's ever = worth... Later, Darrell Lee rodmakers noblerSent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 = rsgould@cmc.net; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re:Rod = RestorersO.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a = quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier = than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly = ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The = grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy = forward the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9A5B.C2D7FEA0-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Mar 30 17:42:58 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Rod Restorers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF9A5D.7B771120" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF9A5D.7B771120 George, I think I almost bid on that rod... I just pulled out my Montague Powerbuilt50 and it has "Double Built" in white (yellowed) script written on it and ithas a swelled butt as well. Send me the photos and let me look at them... I'll probably regret not having sniped you!!! 8^) Cross, Monty, South Bend and a few others had double built rods, but I can'trecall any other maker except Montague with the white script lettering... Ithink South Bend used a decal to designate the Doublebuilt construction.Actually I thought the lettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out rod for... At 8' 3" that is a very unusual length... it might have been cut down...maybe that's why I didn't bid on it... My rod's windings colors aredifferent, perhaps you have a Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35... The Monty Powerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. Igot mine from a dealer couple of months back and it was the first one he'sever seen! Does your rod have a SL reel seat with very fine threads? Anyway, a pic isworth... Later, Darrell Leewww.vFish.Net for collectors and rodmakers -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 PM Subject: Re: Rod Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high qualityrod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier welted thanI've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, w/ ringhook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The only I.D. onit, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward thephotos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF9A5D.7B771120 George, I = on that rod... I just pulled out my Montague Powerbuilt 50 and it has = Built" in white (yellowed) script written on it and it has a swelled = well. Send me the photos and let me look at them... I'll = Cross, = Bend and a few others had double built rods, but I can't recall any = except Montague with the white script lettering... I think South Bend = lettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out for the first time = while... I think I paid 3X more than you got that rod =for... At 8' = very unusual length... it might have been cut down... maybe that's why I = Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35... The = Powerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. I got = it = first one he's ever seen! Does = worth... Later, Lee rodmakers noblerSent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 = rsgould@cmc.net; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re:Rod = RestorersO.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a = quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier = than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly = ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The = grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy = forward the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF9A5D.7B771120-- from FlyfishT@aol.com Thu Mar 30 17:53:11 2000 Subject: planing form I just wondering if any one has recieved the march/april issue of theplaning form yet? Or was i missed . Thanks from hartzell@easystreet.com Thu Mar 30 18:07:13 2000 QAA17262; Subject: Re: Rod Restorers 0B2ECE229B0EC0DB0A56619F" --------------0B2ECE229B0EC0DB0A56619F Maybe Cross or Montague nobler wrote: O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very highquality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavierwelted than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dryfly action, w/ ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with blacktipping. The only I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script,reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it,I'll be happy to forward the photos. Thanks, GMA --------------0B2ECE229B0EC0DB0A56619F Maybe Cross or Montague nobler wrote: O.K. all you pro restorers,I've got some photos of a very high quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3",with N.S. ferrules, much heavier welted than I've ever seen. A swelledbutt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, w/ ring hook keeper, and brightyellow wraps, with black tipping. The only I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward the --------------0B2ECE229B0EC0DB0A56619F-- from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 30 18:17:23 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Fri, 31 Mar 2000 00:16:50 +0000 Subject: Re: One Fly Ray, Most likely it would be the WRONG one! I tend to have that kind of luck early in the season. Then something inmy foggy brain clicks and I remember to use a nymph/attractor like aprince or an emerger and things get better. Later on in the spring I usually go out with a heavily greased size 14to 16 sulfur dun. I love the surface action! Dennis Ray Gould wrote: Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - ifyou were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring troutfishing what would it be?Ray from lblove@cableone.net Thu Mar 30 18:24:34 2000 Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.117.11);Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:22:47 -0700 Subject: Fw: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A74.6B8AB700" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A74.6B8AB700 Subject: Re: One Fly double hackle renagade, so can fish it dry, wet on the swing, wet =upstream like a nymph, and if it is big enough strip "like a mad man" =quartering downstream like a streamer...works for trout, bass, and =perch/bluegill or if it a 5 wt or bigger a black crystal bugger with rubber legs, size =8 ;^) Brad Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 9:47 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if =you were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing =what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A74.6B8AB700 From:Bradley= Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 6:17 PMSubject: Re: One Fly double hackle renagade, so can fish it dry, wet on = wet upstream like a nymph, and if it is big enough strip "like a mad = perch/bluegill or if it a 5 wt or bigger a black crystal bugger = Brad ----- Original Message ----- Ray =Gould = Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 = AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are = the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern for your = trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A74.6B8AB700-- from lblove@cableone.net Thu Mar 30 18:25:02 2000 Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.117.11);Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:23:59 -0700 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005B_01BF9A74.9F3CA9A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BF9A74.9F3CA9A0 Darrell,Is that the floating or sinking flavor... Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 3:38 PMSubject: RE: One Fly Powerbait... Just kidding! Darrell Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 10:47 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - =if you were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout =fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BF9A74.9F3CA9A0 Darrell, flavor... ----- Original Message ----- Darrell A. Lee = Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 = PMSubject: RE: One Fly Powerbait... kidding! Darrell ----- Original Message ----- = Ray = Sent: Thursday, March 30, = AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are = here's the question - if you were limited to one single fly = your spring trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BF9A74.9F3CA9A0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 30 18:52:24 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:51:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Rod Restorers boundary="------------16227BBE4C0DFE5669E4CA58" --------------16227BBE4C0DFE5669E4CA58 George,Not sure I can help but I would like to see the photosregardless. Shawn "Darrell A. Lee" wrote: George,I think I almost bid on that rod... I just pulled out myMontague Powerbuilt 50 and it has "Double Built" in white (yellowed)script written on it and it has a swelled butt as well. Send me thephotos and let me look at them...I'll probably regret not havingsniped you!!! 8^)Cross, Monty, South Bend and a few others haddouble built rods, but I can't recall any other maker except Montaguewith the white script lettering... I think South Bend used a decal todesignate the Doublebuilt construction. Actually I thought thelettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out for the first timein a while... I think I paid 3X more than you got that rod for...At 8'3" that is a very unusual length... it might have been cut down...maybe that's why I didn't bid on it... My rod's windings colors aredifferent, perhaps you have a Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35...The MontyPowerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. I gotmine from a dealer couple of months back and it was the first one he'sever seen! Does your rod have a SL reel seat with very fine threads?Anyway, a pic is worth...Later,Darrell Leewww.vFish.Net for collectorsand rodmakers -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 PM Subject: Re: Rod RestorersO.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a veryhigh quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S.ferrules, much heavier welted than I've ever seen. A swelledbutt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, w/ ring hookkeeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. Theonly I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script,reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at whobuilt it, I'll be happy to forward the photos. Thanks, GMA --------------16227BBE4C0DFE5669E4CA58 George, Not sure I can help but I would like to see the photos regardless. Shawn"Darrell A. Lee" wrote: George,Ithink I almost bid on that rod... I just pulled out my Montague Powerbuilt50 and it has "Double Built" in white (yellowed) script written on it andit has a swelled butt as well. Send me the photos and let me look atthem...I'll Monty, South Bend and a few others had double built rods, but I can't recallany other maker except Montague with the white script lettering... I thinkSouth Bend used a decal to designate the Doublebuilt construction.ActuallyI thought the lettering on my rod was black until I pulled it out for thefirst time in a while... I think I paid 3X more than you got that rodfor...At8' 3" that is a very unusual length... it might have been cut down... maybethat's why I didn't bid on it... My rod's windings colors are different,perhaps you have a Powerbuilt 20, 25, 30, 35...TheMonty Powerbuilts are VERY rare... I've only seen 1-2 ever on eBay. I got your rod have a SL reel seat with very fine threads? Anyway, a pic isworth...Later,DarrellLeewww.vFish.Net -----OriginalMessage-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu]On Behalf OfnoblerSent: Thursday, March 30,2000 2:19 PM rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: RodRestorersO.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high qualityrod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier welted thanI've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly action, w/ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The onlyI.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, reading away from thegrip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy toforward the photos. Thanks, GMA --------------16227BBE4C0DFE5669E4CA58-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Mar 30 18:58:09 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:57:23 -0400 Subject: Re: gehrke or jerk or something Gee,Does that mean we have to raise our prices? ;^)I kinda feel sorry for the guy, he has some valid points but .....I guess Iwon't continue because thatwouldn't be very nice.The photos he has do look very nice but I can't see how he couldpossibly have built a rod for hisoriginal price and still stayed in business? Even at $600, he must have awhack of overhead to pay off.Shawn "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: What ever happened to George Gehrkes great bamboo flyrod revaluationand break throughs, it seems to havegone away. I looked at his site and his price is up to 600. I was on strike wondering if something happened while I was away. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from oakmere@carol.net Thu Mar 30 19:51:31 2000 Subject: RE: First Fly for Spring Hi Ray: Well I would do my tandem with a indicator parachute dry fly (orangepost)which is on the hatch and a PC nymph. The nymph is my version of thePheasant Tail, but uses some special material for the body, a scud hook,and lightly weighted head covered with dubbing and a collar cover. Deadlythe past several years in South and North Carolina, Pennsylvania, and NewYork for trout. Have really used it effectively all year. Have finished restoring my second bamboo rod - a Tonka Queen, and amworking on getting stuff together to build a bamboo rod. Progress is slow- this working bit seems to get in the way. Have to think about retirementsoI have more time for the serious stuff. FrankFrank Paul, GreyFox2932 North Bayshore DriveSeneca, SC 29672fwpaul@ces.clemson.edu (work)oakmere@carol.net (home) from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thu Mar 30 20:17:25 2000 with SMTP (MDaemon.v3.0.2b.R) ,"Bamboo Flyrod List" Subject: Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program v2.0 After 7 months of development, Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program v2.0hasbeen released to the General Public. This program will allow you therodbuilder to keep track of all your tapers, rods, clients, etc. Thisprogram is fully configurable by you, the end user. To get your copy go to http://www.direct-pest.com/brmdp you maydownload theprogram from there. Please note that the program is password protected.You will need to subscribe to our support mailing list to get the password.You can subscribe from the webpage. Once subscribed the system willautomatically send you and email with the password. This program is fully functional, and is shareware. It was developed asshareware as my way of giving something back to the rodbuildingcommunitythat has shared so much with me. I want to thank Chris Bogart and the Beta Test team for all their helpthesepast months. Thanks Joe =================================================Lost in the Hills of East Tennessee with a Fly Rod in one handand a cigar in the other....."What a Great Life" from knflyrod@home.com Thu Mar 30 20:26:44 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:26:40 -0800 Subject: Re: Hardy Reel Rich, I have had the opportunity to tear into several Hardys. In everycase what appeared to be a "rivet" was in fact a shoulder bolt with aportion of the head? filed off and polished even with the black knob. Inone case where I had tried use WD-40 to soak the handle it would notmove. loosening the threads and removed the handle. I was lucky. Good luck, RonHuff----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hardy Reel Need more help folks. Have a old Hardy Princess that has the handlefrozen so it doesn't spin. What's the best way to go about freeing itup? It has a rivet not a bolt that keeps it on. Rich from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Thu Mar 30 20:27:14 2000 SMTP id OAA26480; Fri, 31 Mar 2000 14:26:52 +1200 Subject: Re: One Fly Seeing rod making is a little slow I can mention that the world "one fly"fishing contest is held every year in Nelson(NZ) in late March. It involvesfishing with one fly for the day . If you lose it it is the end of thefishing for the day . The contest is over 3 days.This ( plus the $2000 entry fee ) is the reason I have not entered.Unfortunately I do not know what is the fly preferred by most entrants. Ian Kearney At 07:47 AM 30/03/00 -0800, Ray Gould wrote:Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if youwere limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing whatwould it be?Ray Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Nowhere's the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern for yourspring trout fishing what would it be?Ray from rsgould@cmc.net Thu Mar 30 20:42:51 2000 Subject: Re: Rod Restorers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0073_01BF9A77.B30CA7C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01BF9A77.B30CA7C0 I think Ed Hartzell is correct as usual. It's most likely a Cross or a =Montague but remember too that South bend marketed some of the Cross =double built rods and that Hardy also made some double built rods.Ray Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 PMSubject: Re: Rod Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high =quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier =welted than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly =action, w/ ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black =tipping. The only I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, =reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward =the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01BF9A77.B30CA7C0 I think Ed Hartzell is correct as = likely a Cross or a Montague but remember too that South bend marketed = rods.Ray ----- Original Message ----- nobler = Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Rod =Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a = quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier = than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly = ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The = grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy = forward the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01BF9A77.B30CA7C0-- from rsgould@cmc.net Thu Mar 30 20:52:39 2000 Subject: Re: Reel Seats Hi Terry,I use both the down lock and the up lock and find there are advantages toeach. I like the looks of the down lock better and feel that the rod"balance" is better with the reel located just a bit farther from the grip.But I do like the up lock when fighting one of those big Kamloops Trout offthe reel since it acts like a mini fighting butt.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Reel Seats Since several people have noted that list traffic is slow right now,I'll throw in this question that I have been thinking about for thelast several years. I grew up fishing in the 60's, and back then nearly all thenew and old quality rods (Orvis, Leonard, etc.), productionrods, and fiberglass rods that I used or saw had either down-lockingthreaded reel seats or cap and ring seats with the ring sliding downto lock the reel into a butt cap. Now, on both plastic and bamboorods, there seems to be a much higher percentage of up-locking seats.(and I'm aware that some very high quality rods of the past also haduplocking seats) Undoubtedly because of a personal bias formed during my early years,I find up-locking seats unattractive and I don't see why theyhave become so prevalent. I suppose they do create a mini fightingbutt that we all wish we needed more often, but the butt normallyjust serves to catch a loop of fly line when retrieving and shootingline. It also seems easier to get dirt in the threads of anuplocking seat when the rod is leaned up against something. So, my question is why the increase in uplocking seats? Is it juststyle, or are there advantages that I'm not seeing? Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Mar 30 20:55:22 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Thu, 30 Mar 2000 20:43:42 -0600 Subject: Re: Rod Restorers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0095_01BF9A8A.8E5A2520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01BF9A8A.8E5A2520 BTW, all sections are almost equal. the tip and mid are 33" ea., and the =butt approx. 34", so I doubt it was cut any. GMA Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 8:42 PMSubject: Re: Rod Restorers I think Ed Hartzell is correct as usual. It's most likely a Cross or a =Montague but remember too that South bend marketed some of the Cross =double built rods and that Hardy also made some double built rods.Ray Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:19 PMSubject: Re: Rod Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a very high =quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much heavier =welted than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly =action, w/ ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black =tipping. The only I.D. on it, is "Doublebuilt" in white ink script, =reading away from the grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be happy to forward =the photos. Thanks, GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01BF9A8A.8E5A2520 BTW, all sections are almost equal. the tip and mid are 33"= and the butt approx. 34", so I doubt it was cut any. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Ray =Gould = Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Rod =Restorers I think Ed Hartzell is correct as = most likely a Cross or a Montague but remember too that South bend = some of the Cross double built rods and that Hardy also made some = rods.Ray ----- Original Message ----- = Sent: Thursday, March 30, = PMSubject: Re: Rod =Restorers O.K. all you pro restorers, I've got some photos of a = quality rod. It's a 3 - pc., 8'- 3", with N.S. ferrules, much = than I've ever seen. A swelled butt, not unlike a Heddon dry fly = ring hook keeper, and bright yellow wraps, with black tipping. The = grip. Any who will take a crack at who built it, I'll be = forward the photos. Thanks, =GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01BF9A8A.8E5A2520-- from ROBERT.KOPE@prodigy.net Thu Mar 30 21:06:34 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:06:25 -0500 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF9A7B.839FB500" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF9A7B.839FB500 Ray, Of course it depends on where you are fishing, but around here (west of =the Cascades)it would have to be a chironomid nymph. Not the best kind =of fishing, but what works. -- Robert Kope-----Original Message-----From: Ray Gould Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:51 AMSubject: One Fly Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if =you were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing =what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF9A7B.839FB500 Ray, Of course it depends on where you are fishing, but = = kind of fishing, but what works. -- Robert Kope -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= FlyOk. Winter is over. The rods are = here's the question - if you were limited to one single fly pattern = spring trout fishing what would it be?Ray ------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF9A7B.839FB500-- from martinj@aa.net Thu Mar 30 21:49:56 2000 Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:49:48 -0800 Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A80.F1689E80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A80.F1689E80 I am making sliding ring "uplocking" reel seats that do not fit under a hoodbut rather under another glued on ring. Simple to make that's why. I onlyhave to cut bands. I just recently got hold of some nickel silver solidstock so now I can start making down locking ring and cap seats. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:42 PM Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reelseats on light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an Aluminum DL onthis "gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time to work onit), but all of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tangle the line up onME and my fishing partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or andextra inch of butt section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message-----From: aa.net rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 4:30 PMSubject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line whilecasting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for onethingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than thereel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you neversetyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork itfitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up lockingifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks withbutthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my rodon.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee"itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatestanswer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go.BillPS This should liven up the list ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A80.F1689E80 making sliding ring "uplocking" reel seats that do not fit under a hood = rather under another glued on ring. Simple to make that's why. I only = cut bands. I just recently got hold of some nickel silver solid stock so = can start making down locking ring and cap seats. Jensen Down am going to put an Aluminum DL on this = am building for myself (if I ever get time to work on it), but all of = partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or and extra inch of = section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message-----From: = =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up locking = I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my rod = owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest = = ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BF9A80.F1689E80-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Thu Mar 30 23:26:45 2000 E-Mail VirusWall NT); Fri, 31 Mar 200013:25:34 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: Bamboo article Greetings All, My boss was going through some of his old National Geographics and cameacross an article by Luis Marden (nearly thirty pages) on bamboo. ItcoversTonkin pretty well and even has a picture of Hoagy Carmichael slavingawayat the bench. The issue is Volume 158, #4 which came out in October,1980 you but I thought it might be of interest to some of the others. Cheers Mike from rsgould@cmc.net Fri Mar 31 00:08:55 2000 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Bamboo article Hi Mike,The article to which you refer is an excellent one on the subject ofbambooand covers some 24 pages with photographs by Jim Brandenburg. LuisMardenalso published a book in 1997 titled "The Angler's Bamboo" which is also afine piece of work. We were honored to have Luis attend one of our earlierbamboo Rod Building workshops at Corbett Lake in B.C.Ray Gould----- Original Message ----- Subject: Bamboo article Greetings All, My boss was going through some of his old National Geographics andcameacross an article by Luis Marden (nearly thirty pages) on bamboo. ItcoversTonkin pretty well and even has a picture of Hoagy Carmichael slavingawayat the bench. The issue is Volume 158, #4 which came out in October,1980 ofyou but I thought it might be of interest to some of the others. Cheers Mike from ernie2@pacbell.net Fri Mar 31 00:49:07 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Rings are great if you don't mind trying to put your reel back on while afish is running away with your line.Ernie -----Original Message----- ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reelseatson light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an Aluminum DL on this"gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time to work on it), butall of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tangle the line up on ME andmy fishing partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or and extra inchof butt section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line while casting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for one thingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than thereel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you neversetyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork it fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up locking ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks with butthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my rodon.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee "itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go.BillPS This should liven up the list from chris@artistree.com Fri Mar 31 01:05:54 2000 Subject: Re: Bamboo article Old issues of National Geographic magazine are very common in the U.S.as nobody likes to throw them out. Frank Armbruster once pointed outthat they always seem to end in the local flea markets and thrift shops.Anyone who has been in one those shops knows of the obligatory stack ofNational Geographics in the corner. Frank suggested that instead of justwalking past the stack, stop and look for that particular issue. Even ifyou all ready have it, pick it up save it for someone who's interestedin building bamboo rods. I've done this on many occasions but I can'teven tell you how many times I've flipped it open to find that...someone had cut out the photo of Hoagy planing a rod!!!-- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com "Roberts, Michael" wrote: Greetings All, My boss was going through some of his old National Geographics andcameacross an article by Luis Marden (nearly thirty pages) on bamboo. ItcoversTonkin pretty well and even has a picture of Hoagy Carmichael slavingawayat the bench. The issue is Volume 158, #4 which came out in October,1980 ofyou but I thought it might be of interest to some of the others. Cheers Mike from jallaros@comv.es Fri Mar 31 04:07:24 2000 with MicrosoftSMTPSVC(5.5.1877.117.11);Fri, 31 Mar 2000 12:04:39 +0100 Subject: Re: Hello Hi Juan: received through the members of the list, keeping in mind that in Spainthere are not so many resources neither so much information on thisbeautiful liking. Well, If you need something ;-) we can keep in touch. We are a group of spanish ff ( from Valencia, Madrid, Sevilla, Asturiasand Zaragoza), which are trying to make it as easy as possible. I know, Iknow, ... it's no easy, but who likes easy things :-)?. Where did you buy bamboo from Spain? Last week we got our first baleofbamboo from Harold Demarest. Actually I have one address to get it fromGermany. We found where you could buy some things in Spain, like dial calipers.And for the planning forms, we are trying some machinist to do it for us. Best regards, Javier. from saltwein@swbell.net Fri Mar 31 08:19:53 2000 (Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with ESMTP id for Subject: Dip Finish I have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from caneman@clnk.com Fri Mar 31 09:26:32 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:11:23 -0600 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0243_01BF9AE8.DF95F460" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0243_01BF9AE8.DF95F460 Ernie,I've been fishing cap and ring since I first started building my own =reelseat hardware, about 7 or 8 years ago. If you don't make the ring =real thick, make it thinner than even some of the popular manufactured =ones, so that it will flex a bit and lock down good, it won't come =loose. Haven't lost a reel since in all that time, but then again it =could be just good luck, although, the way my fishing trips go, I don't =attribute much to good luck! LOL Bob-----Original Message----- ; fiveside@net-gate.com ; =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down Rings are great if you don't mind trying to put your reel back on while =afish is running away with your line.Ernie -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:48 PMSubject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reel =seatson light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an Aluminum DL on =this"gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time to work on =it), butall of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tangle the line up on ME =andmy fishing partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or and extra =inchof butt section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message-----From: aa.net rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 4:30 PMSubject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line while =casting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for one =thingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than thereel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you never=setyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork =it fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you =arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up =locking ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks with =butthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my =rodon.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee ="itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest =answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly cork =pocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle the =line?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely =longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go.BillPS This should liven up the list ------=_NextPart_000_0243_01BF9AE8.DF95F460 Ernie, manufactured ones, so that it will flex a bit and lock down good, it = be just good luck, although, the way my fishing trips go, I don't = Bob-----Original Message-----From:= rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= = partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or and extra = section sticking out to do that! = <fiveside@net- gt;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you never = rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= needs = = ------=_NextPart_000_0243_01BF9AE8.DF95F460-- from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Fri Mar 31 11:45:46 2000 with ESMTPA id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, 31 Mar 2000 12:45:36 EST Subject: Rod ID'd Maybe someone would like to tell me what would be a good offer on thefollowing 2 rods: A H-I Black River 8'6" appears by the H-I(green elongated with whitediamond, red letters and H-I company name on bottom and somethingCaneon top) label to be a 40-50's model, Handle appears to be a Flyrod,casting rod convertible. Single tip A Montque Splitswitch 8'6" handle has a small chunk out of it. This rodhas a real nice finish still with a fishing set and all the wrapsintact. Agate Stripper and tip top (red). single tip. Fellow worker walked in with these plus a reel made by UNION HARDWAREofTorrington Connecticutt. Jim T from saweiss@flash.net Fri Mar 31 13:29:31 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve,I have a slab floor in my workshop, so the problem was the same asyours.I drilled through the floor with a borrowed impact drill. Expect a hugeamount of dust and noise, so use ear, nose, and eye protection and coveranystuff in the basement that you don't want coated in concrete dust. I woundup having to vacuum every square inch of my workshop, because once I gotthat impact drill going, I was so compulsive that I didn't stop until thathole was done!I located the hole in a corner of the shop so it was easy to build adust-tight cabinet to house the dipping assembly. The dia.of the hole wassufficient to allow a 10" piece of PVC to be installed in the hole. Thedepth will depend on the lifting space your ceiling will allow and thelength of sections you plan to dip. Mine has a 2' deep hole. I installed thePVC with about 2" above the slab and concreted around it and in thebottomof the hole to seal it off from the dirt.The cabinet encloses it all an goes up to the ceiling. Another cabinetis built next to the dipping cabinet to serve as the drying cabinet. I wiredboth cabinets for electrical connections.Steve WeissI have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from channer1@rmi.net Fri Mar 31 14:35:34 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve Trauthwein wrote: I have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MOSteve;I would suggest that you make the hole at least twice the size of yourtube and plan on dropping a light fixture or some heat source down thehole before your tube. Ground temp is usually around 50d year aroundand your varnish will thicken up a lot.John from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Fri Mar 31 14:38:38 2000 SMTP id IAA09923; Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:38:24 +1200 Subject: Re: Dip Finish The ultimate symbol of love by SHMBO is the granting of approval to take ajack hammer to the floor of the garage or basement. It takes about 20 minutes with a hired electric jack hammer to make ahole afoot deep and about 6 inches in diameter. It needs to be about this size sothat you can get your hand in to clean the rubbish out of the bottom of thehole. You can then use a short length of 3" diameter pipe to act as a"clean" hole to floor level and backfill around this . The dip tube can thenfit inside this larger diamenter pipe. Ian Kearney At 08:20 AM 31/03/00 -0800, Steve Trauthwein wrote:I have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from channer1@rmi.net Fri Mar 31 14:40:35 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve Trauthwein wrote: I have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MOSteve;I forgot to mention that you will also have to dig out the depth youneed, so don't you forget to take into account the tool you will have touse to do the digging. You will probably find gravel(3- 4") under theslab, then undisturbed ground, expect it to be hard.John from listreader@codemarine.com Fri Mar 31 14:48:30 2000 codemarine.209.170.128.193 with SMTP (Microsoft ExchangeInternet Mail Service Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Dip Finish Sorry to play the devil's advocate, but I'm having a hard time seeing whyyou'd go to this trouble rather thansimply using the drip tube design which doesn't require the extra heightnor an extraction motor. What am Imissing? --Steve from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Fri Mar 31 15:10:48 2000 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id PAA09837 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id PAA15108 for Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve, I tried to send this directly to you but it bounced back... Unless you are making lots of rods and need a permanent dipping setup, it seems like an awful lot of work to bust a hole in the basement floor. I'd look for a first floor closet where I couldmake a discrete hole to an unused area of the basement. Emptythe closet, hang up some plastic sheeting, lower your tube and dip away. In a few days you are done and put stuff back whereit was. I like drilling holes in things as much as the next guy but a one-inch hole thru one inch of wood is a lot easier than a 6 inch hole thru 4 feet of concrete, gravel and dirt. Around here we have (alleged) problems with radon gas from bedrockaccumulating in basements. A big hole in the basement floor wouldnot raise your home's market value.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 31 15:53:28 2000 Subject: Bamboo flyrod magazine Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would be month? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 31 16:03:40 2000 Subject: Hook tender Does anyone out there make a rope braided hook tender like the oneon JD Wagner's "details page" ? He says that it is handcrafted out ofsterling silver and I think it looks very sharp! Feel free to contact meoff list if you wish. Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Fri Mar 31 16:06:38 2000 Subject: One fly feedback boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005F_01BF9B1A.479BA1A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BF9B1A.479BA1A0 Thought you might like to know the top 4 flies were the Pheasant Tail =Nymph, The Renegade, The Elk Hair Caddis and The Wooly Bugger.Ray ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BF9B1A.479BA1A0 Thought you might like to know the top= the Pheasant Tail Nymph, The Renegade, The Elk Hair Caddis and The Wooly= Bugger.Ray ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01BF9B1A.479BA1A0-- from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Fri Mar 31 16:11:19 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine Shawn,The last I heard was that they had posted me a copy in february.Must be on route via carrier pidgeon......still hasn't arrived.....Paul B Shawn Pineo wrote: Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn from ernie2@pacbell.net Fri Mar 31 16:13:41 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Dip Finish -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Dip Finish Sorry to play the devil's advocate, but I'm having a hard time seeing whyyou'd go to this trouble rather than simply using the drip tube designwhichdoesn't require the extra height nor an extraction motor. What am Imissing? --Steve from ernie2@pacbell.net Fri Mar 31 16:14:12 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Dip Finish Well I just thought it was a blessing the design didn't call for a hole inthe roof.Ernie -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Dip Finish Sorry to play the devil's advocate, but I'm having a hard time seeing whyyou'd go to this trouble rather than simply using the drip tube designwhichdoesn't require the extra height nor an extraction motor. What am Imissing? --Steve from rhd360@maine.edu Fri Mar 31 16:17:28 2000 Level 310) via TCP with SMTP ; Fri, 31Mar 2000 17:16:46 EST Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine Actually Shawn I got mine last week. Awlfully nice article in there aboutthemaritimes. Are you sure you paid your subscription fees? B. At 05:49 PM 3/31/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.Professor of Family Relations17 Merrill Hall University of MaineOrono, ME 04469(207) 581-3128(207) 581-3120 FAX from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 31 16:32:01 2000 Subject: bamboo sources I have noticed lately that there are a lot of different suppliers forbamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest and TuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but I wasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order. Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other" guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? I meansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths.One new one I noticed and haven't heard much about isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers as itwill soon be time to order more.I am also looking for a new source for quality cork. My last stuffwas Extra select from REC but I am wondering if I could find evenbetter? Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 31 16:40:43 2000 Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:40:09 -0400 Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine Well AMEN!mine should be on it's way then. It takes quite a long timeafter you guys get yours, to get it here in Canada for some weird reason. Ihopethey are finally on track and going full production because it has been areallygood magazine so far. And, yes I am sure I paid my fee! I see the receipteverymonth when I contemplate asking for my money back then change my mind;^) ShawnRobert Milardo wrote: Actually Shawn I got mine last week. Awlfully nice article in thereabout themaritimes. Are you sure you paid your subscription fees? B. At 05:49 PM 3/31/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.Professor of Family Relations17 Merrill HallUniversity of MaineOrono, ME 04469(207) 581-3128(207) 581-3120 FAX from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Mar 31 16:41:44 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 31 Mar 2000 16:42:35 -0600 Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF9B30.513DBFC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF9B30.513DBFC0 I had a call from BFR, about a week after I posted about not receiving =back copies I had ordered. I was promised that my "one" (I had ordered =two) back copy, would be sent post haste ! The balance owed to me would =be credited toward a subscription. I've received ZERO, and it's been =weeks ! GMA Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 3:49 PMSubject: Bamboo flyrod magazine Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That =wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my =kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would =besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF9B30.513DBFC0 I had a call from BFR, about a week after I posted about = receiving back copies I had ordered. I was promised that my "one" (I had = two) back copy, would be sent post haste ! The balance owed to me would = ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo = Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 = PMSubject: Bamboo flyrod =magazine = I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April = little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow = about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in = = = Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BF9B30.513DBFC0-- from bob@downandacross.com Fri Mar 31 16:50:17 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: bamboo sources Hi Shawn:With all due respect to the very nice people at Demerest's, I am makinggood use out of Cary Chan's culms. He is the gentleman atbamboopoles.com. I built two rods from the stuff that I have fishedrecently, and I think it is good cane structurally and aesthetically. Iwould like to try the Demerest cane and explore the opposite of what youare asking. But, if it ain't broke, why fix it? Otherwise you and I might end upbroke. Bob At 06:27 PM 3/31/00 -0400, you wrote:I have noticed lately that there are a lot bamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest andTuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but Iwasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order.Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other"guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? Imeansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths. isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers asitwill soon be time to order more. cork. My last stuff evenbetter? Shawn Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from cbogart@shentel.net Fri Mar 31 16:52:37 2000 (5.0.2195) boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_"Subject: Re: [Bamboo_Rodmakers_Data_Program] Bamboo RodmakersDatabase Program v2.0 {02} --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Bob Joe changed the password for the Production Release of this program.He wants to keeptrack of who has the program and put them on this list to notify them ofupdates. There are lot of fixes in this version and it cleans everything upnicely - especially the reports.He plans on releasing updates that only update the program and not thedatabase files. This will bethe stable version. The taper file and master file both have places forguide spacing now. The masterfile will not be overwritten in this version - unless you have informationthat you want to save - delete everything. This version comes with a number of tapers that I inputted - ifyou do not like - just deletethem. If you want to save something - copy it out of the directory - thencopy back after install. But forfuture versions this will not be a problem and your data will be protected. I think the wait has been worth it - Joe has put a lot of time andeffort (many hundreds of hours) into this project and I think the results really reflect it. So Iencourage you to update to theproduction version and it will eliminate a lot of issues with the previousBeta versions. In the future Joe plans to introduce a Taper Exchange Format toImport and Export tapersto other users of the database and then expand to take Hex Rod format andImport - really will be nice feature that will eliminate having to type things in and also peoplecan attach the file when passing tapers to the list - but this is Joe's next big effort if people showinterest in the program. Anotherfuture addition will be the ability to add pictures to records. So everyoneencourage Joe by giving theprogram a look and a try and I think you will appreciate what he has done. I will send you the new password separately. Chris --Original Message Text--- Joe:Do we already have this? If not, what is the pass word? Are the rod filesand such updatable without having todelete the prior versions?Bob At 09:16 PM 3/30/00 -0500, you wrote:After 7 months of development, Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program v2.0hasbeen released to the General Public. This program will allow you therodbuilder to keep track of all your tapers, rods, clients, etc. Thisprogram is fully configurable by you, the end user. To get your copy go to http://www.direct-pest.com/brmdp you maydownload theprogram from there. Please note that the program is password protected.You will need to subscribe to our support mailing list to get the password.You can subscribe from the webpage. Once subscribed the system willautomatically send you and email with the password. This program is fully functional, and is shareware. It was developed asshareware as my way of giving something back to the rodbuildingcommunitythat has shared so much with me. I want to thank Chris Bogart and the Beta Test team for all their helpthesepast months. Thanks Joe =================================================Lost in the Hills of East Tennessee with a Fly Rod in one handand a cigar in the other....."What a Great Life" Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Bob Joe changed the password for the Production Release of this program.He wants to keeptrack of who has the program and put them on this list to notify them ofupdates. There are lot of fixes in this version and it cleans everything up nicely- especially the reports.He plans on releasing updates that only update the program and not thedatabase files. This will bethe stable version. The taper file and master file both have places forguide spacing now. The masterfile will not be overwritten in this version - unless you have informationthat you want to save - delete everything. This version comes with a number of tapers that I inputted - ifyou do not like - just deletethem. If you want to save something - copy it out of the directory - thencopy back after install. But forfuture versions this will not be aproblem and your data will be protected. I think the wait has been worth it - Joe has put a lot of time and effort(many hundreds of hours) into this project and I think the results really reflect it. So Iencourage you to update to theproduction version and it will eliminate a lot of issues with the previousBeta versions. In the future Joe plans to introduce a Taper Exchange Format to Importand Export tapersto other users of the database and then expand to take Hex Rod format andImport - really will be nice feature that will eliminate having to type things in and also peoplecan attach the file when passing tapers to the list - but this is Joe's next big effort if people showinterest in the program.Anotherfuture addition will be the ability to add pictures to records. So everyoneencourage Joe by giving theprogram a look and a try and I think you will appreciate what he has done. I will send you the new password separately. Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:20:02 -0500 Joe:Do we already have this? If not, what is the pass word? Are the rod filesand such updatable without having todelete the prior versions?Bob At 09:16 PM 3/30/00 -0500, you wrote:After 7 months of development, Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program v2.0hasbeen released to the General Public. This program will allow you therodbuilder to keep track of all your tapers, rods, clients, etc. Thisprogram is fully configurable by you, the end user. To get your copy go to http://www.direct-pest.com/brmdp you may download theprogram from there. Please note that the program is passwordprotected.You will need to subscribe to our support mailing list to get thepassword.You can subscribe from the webpage. Once subscribed the system willautomatically send you and email with the password. This program is fully functional, and is shareware. It was developedasshareware as my way of giving something back to the rodbuildingcommunitythat has shared so much with me. I want to thank Chris Bogart and the Beta Test team for all their helpthesepast months. Thanks Joe =================================================Lost in the Hills of East Tennessee with a Fly Rod in one handand a cigar in the other....."What a Great Life" BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_-- from Canerods@aol.com Fri Mar 31 17:02:32 2000 Subject: Soft tip? All, I decided that I'll try to make it back to Greyrock this year and that should finish refinishing one of my dad's old Montague rods so that I could drop it off in Detroit. I remember that I stopped work on it when I couldn't get/keep the tip straight. It's very soft and takes a set even without heating it. Bamboo not tempered? Bad glue? I spoke to dad and he said that one of the rods had atip that he always had to straighten after a day's fishing. (IE - same rod) Has anyone solved this type of solf tip problem without building a newtip? Would delaminating and regluing solve the problem? How about cooking the strips in a 250 deg. oven and regluing? Thx, Don Burns from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Mar 31 17:35:22 2000 0000 (204.186.33.108) Subject: Re: Soft tip? Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, I decided that I'll try to make it back to Greyrock this year and thatshouldfinish refinishing one of my dad's old Montague rods so that I could dropitoff in Detroit. I remember that I stopped work on it when I couldn't get/keep the tipstraight. It's very soft and takes a set even without heating it. Bamboonottempered? Bad glue? I spoke to dad and he said that one of the rods had atipthat he always had to straighten after a day's fishing. (IE - same rod) Has anyone solved this type of solf tip problem without building a newtip?Would delaminating and regluing solve the problem? How about cookingthestrips in a 250 deg. oven and regluing? Thx, Don BurnsI had an old 61/2' Shakespeare with the same problem. What I did was setthe tip next to a hot air heat register for about 2 months during awinter and it worked out way better than expected. Marty from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 31 17:42:27 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Fri, 31 Mar 2000 23:41:54 +0000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Ernie, I guess you don't have the latest release then. It's called Dip2000. It automatically creates a hole in your roof as well as your wallet andit performs no better than previous versions! Dennis Ernie Harrison wrote: Well I just thought it was a blessing the design didn't call for a hole inthe roof.Ernie -----Original Message-----From: Steve Zimmerman Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 1:44 PMSubject: RE: Dip Finish Sorry to play the devil's advocate, but I'm having a hard time seeing whyyou'd go to this trouble rather than simply using the drip tube designwhichdoesn't require the extra height nor an extraction motor. What am Imissing? --Steve from rsgould@cmc.net Fri Mar 31 18:58:50 2000 Subject: Re: bamboo sources Hi Shawn,I have a couple comments. First in regards to the bamboo I have trust andconfidence in the C.H. Demarest Co. and believe it is wise to continue topurchase from them especially since I know they have personally visitedthetonkin cane forests and their suppliers so that we might receive bettercaneand so that we receive the right species. Harold Demarest has attendedmostall of our west coast work shops at Corbett Lake and at Troutdale andknowsmany of us personally and makes an effort to obtain good productson ourbehalf. That being said I see little reason to change. On the issue ofgetting good cork we've put together a group order at our Corbettworkshopsand gotten good cork from C&D Trading by ordering their best grade.You'llneed to check with them to get current pricing and minimum order size.Thelast email address I have for them is dpeter@pconline.com.RayRay----- Original Message ----- Subject: bamboo sources I have noticed lately that there are a lot of different suppliers forbamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest and TuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but I wasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order. Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other" guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? I meansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths.One new one I noticed and haven't heard much about isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers as itwill soon be time to order more.I am also looking for a new source for quality cork. My last stuffwas Extra select from REC but I am wondering if I could find evenbetter? Shawn from martinj@aa.net Fri Mar 31 19:35:17 2000 Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:35:10 -0800 , Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down You know, I have had only ONE reel in my life consistently loosen up whilefishing. IT was a Powell aluminum that was touted as the strongest reelonthe market (at the time) This was on a graphite rod I built about 10 plusyears ago. It had square cut threads that never would lock up. I have neverhad a sliding band loosen up any more than my regular screw lock reelseats,ever. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Locks, Up and Down Rings are great if you don't mind trying to put your reel back on while afish is running away with your line.Ernie -----Original Message----- ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down I'm a cap and ring man myself! Don't care much for screw locking reelseatson light rods... big rods? Well, I am going to put an Aluminum DL on this"gator" rod I am building for myself (if I ever get time to work on it), butall of my trout rods get cap and ring. I can tangle the line up on ME andmy fishing partner... I sure don't need either hook keeper or and extra inchof butt section sticking out to do that! :^) Bob-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down I don't think that the extra butt end will foul up any line while casting.If I am getting fouled it is more likely on the hook keeper. for one thingthe extra inch gives the rod something else to rest on (other than thereel)when you set it down somewhere while fishing. I know I know, you neversetyour rod down. I do. Also not all uplocking require the cut out cork it fitunder. That is one design of many. I personally don't use it. If you arefighting a fish on the reel (we should be so lucky) than the up locking ifanything will hold tighter into the reel seat as opposed to trying towrenchitself loose like a down locking. NOTE: All these are valid points that I can counter your remarks with butthe only one I care about is that I do like the extra inch to set my rodon.the others are simply for arguments sake. It looked like you wee "itching" I also like the way it looks. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 1:43 PM Subject: Locks, Up and Down To the List,Most of the old masters had it right. Downlocking is the neatest answer.Who needs to plane an extra useless inch of cane for uplocking therebyshortening the rod action? Who needs to mess with those silly corkpocketsto accommodate the uplock? Who needs a butt protrusion to tangle theline?Fighting butt- one inch long? A nice, short downlocker, just barely longenough to handle your favorite Hardy is the elegant custom way to go.BillPS This should liven up the list from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Mar 31 19:59:48 2000 Subject: One Fly - Late Been 'rassling with this @#*X% computer!! One vote for the Zug-Bug onBlueRidge Streams.Ed from richjez@enteract.com Fri Mar 31 20:04:42 2000 (envelope- from richjez@enteract.com) Subject: Re: Dip Finish boundary="=====================_18171244==_.ALT" --=====================_18171244==_.ALT Before you start drilling, check to see where your utilities are running under the floor. Many houses have water, sewer, drain fields, and in some homes gas and water running under the floor. Now I like surprises as much as the next person but................. An alternate location would be the staircase to the basement. Drill a hole in or hinge one of the top stairs going into the basement. (If you hinge the stair, attach some ort of fastener to keep it down during normal use.) Mount your pulley system in the stairwell ceiling above the modified stair. Set the dip tube below the modified stair. Then you have the height of the first and second floor for dipping and removal from the tube. Unless you are making 8' one piece rods, that should be sufficient space. Rich Jezioro At 03:10 PM 3/31/00 -0600, Frank Stetzer wrote:Steve, I tried to send this directly to you but it bounced back... Unless you are making lots of rods and need a permanent dippingsetup, it seems like an awful lot of work to bust a hole in thebasement floor. I'd look for a first floor closet where I couldmake a discrete hole to an unused area of the basement. Emptythe closet, hang up some plastic sheeting, lower your tube anddip away. In a few days you are done and put stuff back whereit was. I like drilling holes in things as much as the next guy buta one-inch hole thru one inch of wood is a lot easier than a 6inch hole thru 4 feet of concrete, gravel and dirt. Around here we have (alleged) problems with radon gas from bedrockaccumulating in basements. A big hole in the basement floor wouldnot raise your home's market value.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and aEmployed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>-- =====================_18171244==_.ALT Before you start drilling, check to see where your utilitiesare running under the floor. Many houses have water, sewer, drain fields,and in some homes gas and water running under the floor. but................. An alternate location would be the staircase to the basement. Drill ahole in or hinge one of the top stairs going into the basement. (If youhinge the stair, attach some ort of fastener to keep it down duringnormal use.) Mount your pulley system in the stairwell ceiling above the modifiedstair. Set the dip tube below the modified stair. Then you have theheight of the first and second floor for dipping and removal from thetube. Unless you are making 8' one piece rods, that should be sufficientspace. Rich Jezioro At 03:10 PM 3/31/00 -0600, Frank Stetzer wrote:Steve, I tried to send this directly to you but it bounced back... Unless you are making lots of rods and need a permanent dipping setup, it seems like an awful lot of work to bust a hole in the could the closet, hang up some plastic sheeting, lower your tube and it was. I like drilling holes in things as much as the next guy but a one-inch hole thru one inch of wood is a lot easier than a 6 inch hole thru 4 feet of concrete, gravel and dirt. Around here we have (alleged) problems with radon gas from bedrock wouldnot raise your home's market value.......................................................................Frank "...a cheerful comrade is better than a waterproof coat and a "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_18171244==_.ALT-- from freaner@home.com Fri Mar 31 20:13:36 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with ESMTP 0800 Subject: Re: Dip Finish At 4:17 PM -0600 , 3/31/00, Rich Jezioro wrote about Re: Dip FinishBefore you start drilling, check to see where your utilities are running under the floor. Many houses have water, sewer, drain fields, and in some homes gas and water running under the floor. Now I like surprises as much as the next person but................. Another thing to consider is the water table in your area. If you have a sump pump installed that kicks in every time it rains, drilling a hole in the floor of your basement may result in flooding the basement next time it rains... This would be one those surprises Rich DOESN'T like... Claude from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Mar 31 20:16:32 2000 Subject: Varnish tube I would give serious thought to a drip tube before drilling a hole anywhere.Ed from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Mar 31 20:21:45 2000 Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine B.That's shocking.....Did anyone else get theirs? I didn't.Ed-----Original Message----- Rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine Actually Shawn I got mine last week. Awlfully nice article in there aboutthemaritimes. Are you sure you paid your subscription fees? B. At 05:49 PM 3/31/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.Professor of Family Relations17 Merrill HallUniversity of MaineOrono, ME 04469(207) 581-3128(207) 581-3120 FAX from martinj@aa.net Fri Mar 31 21:03:50 2000 Fri, 31 Mar 2000 19:03:01 -0800 Subject: RE: Dip Finish boundary="----=_NextPart_000_006E_01BF9B43.90380DD0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006E_01BF9B43.90380DD0 I cut a hole in the corner of the top stair. All the motors and such are inthe basement. I installed a three inch cardboard tube and cut a door in itin the upper stair portion so I can remove the rod section when done andplace it in the drying cabinet. I've had this for maybe 4 years or so withno problems yet. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 2:18 PM Subject: Re: Dip Finish Before you start drilling, check to see where your utilities are runningunder the floor. Many houses have water, sewer, drain fields, and in somehomes gas and water running under the floor. Now I like surprises as much as the next person but................. An alternate location would be the staircase to the basement. Drill a holein or hinge one of the top stairs going into the basement. (If you hinge thestair, attach some ort of fastener to keep it down during normal use.) Mount your pulley system in the stairwell ceiling above the modifiedstair. Set the dip tube below the modified stair. Then you have the heightof the first and second floor for dipping and removal from the tube. Unlessyou are making 8' one piece rods, that should be sufficient space. Rich Jezioro At 03:10 PM 3/31/00 -0600, Frank Stetzer wrote: Steve, I tried to send this directly to you but it bounced back... Unless you are making lots of rods and need a permanent dippingsetup, it seems like an awful lot of work to bust a hole in thebasement floor. I'd look for a first floor closet where I couldmake a discrete hole to an unused area of the basement. Emptythe closet, hang up some plastic sheeting, lower your tube anddip away. In a few days you are done and put stuff back whereit was. I like drilling holes in things as much as the next guy buta one-inch hole thru one inch of wood is a lot easier than a 6inch hole thru 4 feet of concrete, gravel and dirt. Around here we have (alleged) problems with radon gas from bedrockaccumulating in basements. A big hole in the basement floor wouldnot raise your home's market value.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and aEmployed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > >))):> ------=_NextPart_000_006E_01BF9B43.90380DD0 a hole in the corner of the top stair. All the motors and such are in = basement. I installed a three inch cardboard tube and cut a door in it = upper stair portion so I can remove the rod section when done and place = the drying cabinet. I've had this for maybe 4 years or so with no = yet. Jensen JezioroSent: Friday, March 31, 2000 2:18 stetzer@csd.uwm.edu; RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject:Re: = FinishBefore you start drilling, = see where your utilities are running under the floor. Many houses have = sewer, drain fields, and in some homes gas and water running under the = but.................An alternate location would be the = the basement. Drill a hole in or hinge one of the top stairs going = basement. (If you hinge the stair, attach some ort of fastener to keep = during normal use.) Mount your pulley system in the stairwell = above the modified stair. Set the dip tube below the modified stair. = have the height of the first and second floor for dipping and removal = tube. Unless you are making 8' one piece rods, that should be = space.Rich JezioroAt 03:10 PM3/31/00 = Frank Stetzer wrote:Steve,I tried to send this = you but it bounced back...Unless you are making lots of rods = need a permanent dipping setup, it seems like an awful lot of = closet where I couldmake a discrete hole to an unused area of = back whereit was.I like drilling holes in things as much = next guy but a one-inch hole thru one inch of wood is a lot = a 6 inch hole thru 4 feet of concrete, gravel and = here we have (alleged) problems with radon gas from = =value................................................................= = = "Fisherman's = = = = = ------=_NextPart_000_006E_01BF9B43.90380DD0-- from martinj@aa.net Fri Mar 31 21:04:38 2000 Fri, 31 Mar 2000 19:04:33 -0800 Subject: RE: Varnish tube I can plug up a three inch hole in the stair case pretty easily. Now if youhave hardwood stairs that is another thing. Actually you could patch thatpretty easily also. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Varnish tube I would give serious thought to a drip tube before drilling a hole anywhere.Ed from Bamboomaker@aol.com Fri Mar 31 21:09:10 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve, I punched a hole in my basement floor with a 3/4" masonry drill. I had togo through about 6 or 8 inches before reaching dirt. I then used a 3/4 spare copper pipe, fitted the end to my shop vac, and 'dug' my tunnel through the dirt by using the vac. I put 2' of 3/4 copper pipe with a 3/4-1" connector to 3 feet of 1" copper pipe. The pipe connector acts as a 'shoulder' to support the apparatus in the concrete floor. All of this is contained in a (now dust free) closet that had my watermeter. I went slowly while drilling to make sure that I didn't hit a water pipe. Regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, M.D.Rochester, MN from stpete@netten.net Fri Mar 31 21:43:38 2000 0600 Subject: Re: bamboo sources I know that I am going to take some grief on this, but here goes anyway. I suppose that it is in our interest as rodmakers to have severalsources of every item, including bamboo. However, seeing that themarket for rod quality Tonkin is probably a pitance compared to thetotal market for imported cane and rattan, which these suppliers bringin each year, wouldn't it be in our BEST interest to have a REGULAR andDEPENDABLE supply each and every year? I recall that when I first got into this hobby, the Tonkin cane supplyhad dried up. This was, if I recollect clearly, due to the fact that inthat particular year, the cane developed problems in the container enroute. Due to mold and mildew on the cane, it was deemed below standard sell poor quality goods. That event apparently opened up the market forother suppliers. All well and good - BUT - what if the suppliers findthe market too tough to make a go of it sharing a three way split? Would a new supplier stick around if the weather, or a shipper causedhim a large loss in a particular year? Now this is a market economy, I know, but I prefer to put my dollars(few though they may be) in the coffers of a company that has been providing Tonkin cane to rodbuilders for generations. I have met withand done business with Harold and Eileen Demarest. I know them to beCOMMITED to doing all they can to provide rodbuilders with qualityTonkin cane for a long time to come. They will tell you so themselves.The Demarests feel that it is an honor that their cane and their name beclosely associated with the fine American tradition of split cane rodmaking. I have nothing negative to say about the newer Tonkin cane suppliers. Ihave, in fact, heard only good things about them. This is not meant todiscourage anyone from doing business with them, and I wish them allwell. I only want to say how I feel about loyalty, tradition andcommitment. I want to ease the anxiety I sometimes feel about thepossibility that one day we rodmakers may be scrounging hard for asource of good Tonkin cane. Thanks, Rick C.Shawn Pineo wrote: I have noticed lately that there are a lot of different suppliers forbamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest and TuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but I wasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order. Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other" guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? I meansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths.One new one I noticed and haven't heard much about isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers as itwill soon be time to order more.I am also looking for a new source for quality cork. My last stuffwas Extra select from REC but I am wondering if I could find evenbetter? Shawn