is when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then remove the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had this problem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Mar 24 09:32:41 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 24 Mar 2000 09:33:29 -0600 Subject: Re: blueing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0 I tend to never coat ferrules with anything. If the finish is coated, =there is always nicks and such. If left clean, then if the bluing fades, =or wears off, it's a simple matter to re-treat them. I always liked the satin finish look to N.S., as it speaks of "class", =as opposed to the bright shiny finish of cheap looking chrome plating. GMA Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 7:37 AMSubject: blueing HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using = payne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The = is when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then = the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had = problem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0 I tend to never coat ferrules with anything. If the finish = coated, there is always nicks and such. If left clean, then if the = or wears off, it's a simple matter to re-treat them. I always liked the satin finish look to N.S., as it speaks = plating. GMA ----- Original Message ----- = Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 = AMSubject: blueing = blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problem = the tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one = TOM ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BF9574.33A8AAE0-- from dati@selway.umt.edu Fri Mar 24 10:00:53 2000 Subject: blueing ferrules, wooden planing forms I just purchased some ferrules from Tony, they are great. Do I need toblue them and if so, what is the purpose for doing so? I also finished another wooden planing form. It is my best oneyet. Just thought that I would write and let everyone know that to putthe groove in the form I used Thomas Penrose's method but glued strips of150 grit sand paper to the file with Tite Bond II. I was able to producea nice groove within a short while. I ran the file from one end to theother in one steady stroke and then backwards back down the form. Itworked well for me and I used the form last night. Thanks for your time and support,Darin Law from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Mar 24 17:12:50 2000 0000 (204.186.33.157) Subject: Re: blueing FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then removethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had thisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOMTom, I had this problem until I used Saran wrap or other householdplastic wrap over the Laquered ferrule and under the masking tape. Worksgreat! Marty from bhoy@inmind.com Fri Mar 24 18:15:05 2000 altos.inmind.com (8.8.8/SCO5) withESMTP id TAA23656 for ; Fri, 24 Mar 2000 Subject: bluing agatine stippers Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the Payne formula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY caustic stuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremely severe chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Will dipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause a toxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I think the stripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:03:17 2000 Fri, 24 Mar 2000 21:02:44 -0400 Subject: Re: blueing Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate to putsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be a customerandfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying "Gee,thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as long asthey tell me how they do it ;^) Is itbecause it is a harmful substance or what?Shawn FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . The problemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and then removethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one had thisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:13:19 2000 Subject: hic-up I hope everyone that wanted to see my eboard page with pictures andbuilding details got to see it. I am sorry for the mass confusion caused objects in my hand especially my Stanley 9 1/2 ;^) . http://www.Shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com from chris@artistree.com Fri Mar 24 19:19:45 2000 Subject: Re: blueing Shawn,All most all the people who requested bluing on my rods said they"couldn't wait till it looked worn." Guess the worn look is kind of likefaded blue jeans. -- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as longasthey tell me how they do it ;^) from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Mar 24 19:52:58 2000 Fri, 24 Mar 2000 21:52:24 -0400 Subject: Re: blueing,now babble Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing?All,kind of unrelated but someone approached me the other day and askedme if Ibuilt greenhart/lancewood rods as well! I was taken off guard and when Ireplied thatI did not, the person informed me that there is someone 3/4 of an hour from mebuilding greenheart/lancewood flyrods.I thought that these were deadcrafts. AlthoughI have no desire to buy one I was intrigued and I am going to see if I canlocatethis rebel to check out the product and process. I will keep you informed!Shawn Chris Wohlford wrote: Shawn,All most all the people who requested bluing on my rods said they"couldn't wait till it looked worn." Guess the worn look is kind of likefaded blue jeans. --Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....aslong asthey tell me how they do it ;^) from FlyfishT@aol.com Fri Mar 24 21:55:03 2000 Subject: blueing To all , Thanks for all the ideas .I hope the next shot will hold. Tom from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Mar 24 22:25:07 2000 Subject: Re: blueing Shawn,I have used two approaches to the short life of bluing, both with greatsuccess. First, simply dip the blued ferrules when you dip the final coatofvarnish on the rest of the rod. That way the bluing lasts as long as thevarnish.Second, I've used "Nyalic" automotive clear coat on both ferrules andslideband reel seats that I have blued. Nyalic is designed to clear coat theundersideof your engine. It resists heat well, and dries hard as nails. I don't knowhowlong it will last, but I first used it almost two years ago, and that reelseatlooks good. --- Well, the bluing looks good anyway. I've banged it up alittlesince it's on my personal fishing rod. Hope this helps, Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: Although I like the look of blued hardware, I am hesitant to do it on myrodseven though a few customers asked about it. It seems inappropriate toputsomething on a rod that just doesn't last. I wouldn't want to be acustomer andfind out that I had to send my prize rod off to have bluing redone everyseasonor more! Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard too many people saying"Gee, thatbluing on my rods just lasts forever!" Is this a case of aesthetics overlongevity? I would love someone to prove me wrong on this one....as longasthey tell me how they do it ;^) U.S.? Is itbecause it is a harmful substance or what?Shawn FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: HI ALL,I have been blueing my ferrules and hardware .I am using thepayne blueing formula , after blueing i dip in a laquer clear . Theproblemis when i tape the ferrules when i dip the rod in varnish and thenremovethe tape the clear pulls off and part of the blueing . Has any one hadthisproblem ? Any other clear that may adhere ?TIA TOM --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Mar 24 22:31:10 2000 Subject: Uplocking reel seat cork Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Mar 24 22:56:36 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:59:56 +0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork.I chuck this cutter up, fire up the lathe and while it's turning I forcethe cork ring onto the cutter. Cuts it clean as a whistle.To gule and turn everything in place I put the reel seat hood into the ringand glue all the cork together and turn it with the hood in place. Tony At 10:29 PM 3/24/00 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from Bamboomaker@aol.com Fri Mar 24 23:08:03 2000 Subject: Pezon & Michel Taper Hello, Since many are requesting the taper to the rod from my prior email, I'll go ahead and post it so that others can build it. Pezon & Michel Colorado modelSuper Parabolic Progressive PPP7' 7" 5/6 wt Staggered Ferrule: Butt Length 39.5"Tip Length 53"Taper (with varnish - subtract ~ 0.002) Tip0 .0825 .09510 .12215 .13220 .14525 .16030 .17635 .18940 .20545 .21450 .232 Butt0 .2405 .24010 .24915 .25620 .26225 .26430 .268 Guide spacingTip 0 - 3.5" - 9.5" - 16" - 23.25" - 30.75" - 39.5" - 48.75" - Ferrule(52")Butt Ferrule - 7" - 17"(stripper) - 29"(start of winding check) If anyone converts this successfully to a non staggered ferrule design, please let me know. Best regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, M.D. from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 01:07:27 2000 Subject: "An Honest Angler" Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of Sparse GreyHackle." His daughter put together this collection of tales & commentary from a true story teller. There is some overlap with his book "FishlessDays, Angling Nights" but don't let that stop you. She included enoughother material (mostly letters to other notable anglers) to make it aneven more entertaining read. I recommend it to anyone who's countingdown the remaining days to season opener. And yes, this book has some bamboo in it. For anyone that learned viathe Garrison book will find "The letter to Hoagy Carmichael Jr." quitepoignant. -- Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 01:34:39 2000 Subject: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Shawn,Well, I'm flattered...but it's probably because I live in NorthernCalifornia . Anyway is this the article? (http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) If not this online articlemight be of interest to others.-- Best Regards, Anonymous in Californiaemail: anonymous@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing? from chris@artistree.com Sat Mar 25 02:18:41 2000 Subject: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Shawn,Well, I'm flattered ...but it's probably because I live in NorthernCalifornia . Anyway is this the article? (http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) Even if it's not thisonline article might be of interest to others on the list.-- Best Regards, Anonymous in Californiaemail: anonymous@artistree.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Chris,did you see the article in Canadian Fly Fisher magazine that TedKnott wroteon Canadian rod builders? I knew that I wouldn't be mentioned because Iam too newand the list was of "better known makers" but I was suprised not to seeyou listed!Ted did apologize if he missed anyone and I know how easily that canhappen.Ted,very nice article! I bought the whole magazine just for that one page,my wifesays I'm hopelessly addicted to bamboo, I've come a long way from thatnewbie whoshowed up, sheepishly, at a rod gathering with a graphite rod!Is that a regular column in the magazine or just a one time thing? from rvenneri@ulster.net Sat Mar 25 05:09:49 2000 0500 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Harry Boyd wrote: Friends,I spent an hour or so tonight installing the cork whichfits over an uplocking reel seat. Since the under-cork hooddoesn't protude through the cork, one has to hollow out asignificant chunk of that cork ring. There has to be a moreelegant way to do this than with a Dremel tool and a littlecarving bit. Got any ideas? (I came up with a better way,but it's still not perfect)Seems like one possible way would be to fashion a corkholder of some sort (ala Garrison) to fit the tail stock ofmy lathe, and chuck up a 21/64 end mill.While I'm on this subject, how do you glue the hollowedout cork to the bamboo so that it can be shaped with therest of the grip? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/Harry,I have found the best way for me to cut out the cork is to clamp thering in a drilling fixture(or a vise) then I use a counter bore of therighrt size with a pilot that fits snug in the bore of the ring and usemy drill press to cut the hole in just secs. contact me off list if youwould like me to get you one to try out you will never do it any otherway. Best RegardsBob VVenneri's21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882http://www.ulster.net/~rvenneri/index.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Mar 25 05:35:25 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 07:34:52 -0400 Subject: Re: Canadian FlyFish (was bluing, still babble) Chris,yes that is the article. Terribly sorry, I had you confused with CraigNaldrett. Chris Wohlford wrote: Anyway is this the article?http://www.canflyfish.com/gearsgadgets.html ) from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:30:20 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Chris Wohlford wrote: Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of Sparse GreyHackle." His daughter put together this collection of tales & commentary from a true story teller. There is some overlap with his book "FishlessDays, Angling Nights" but don't let that stop you. She included enoughother material (mostly letters to other notable anglers) to make it aneven more entertaining read. I recommend it to anyone who's countingdown the remaining days to season opener. And yes, this book has some bamboo in it. For anyone that learned viathe Garrison book will find "The letter to Hoagy Carmichael Jr." quitepoignant. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:36:54 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 06:36:38 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony,How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 08:51:38 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Oops, Sorry --That last message was supposed to read: I agree, Chris. I'm in the middle of that book now, and it's a goodread.While we're talking books, I confess that I liked "Bamboo Fly Rod Suite" byFrankSoos? Anyone else read it?Harry Chris Wohlford wrote: Finally got around to reading "An Honest Angler: The Best of SparseGreyHackle." --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 09:34:11 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 09:34:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760 I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess for the reel =seat you are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter might can =be turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a =counter bore tool could be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or =milling machine, but I'm missing what is being done, I think ???? GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony,How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right =dimension anduse this to cut the cork. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760 I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess = reel seat you are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter = turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a = tool could be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or milling = I'm missing what is being done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Harry = Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel = cork cork. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF963D.9029E760-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Sat Mar 25 10:43:06 2000 (envelope- from mrmac@tcimet.net) Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agatestripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any bythesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than theareaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on anoldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I thinkthestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Mar 25 10:43:09 2000 Sun, 26 Mar 2000 00:46:20 +0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork types="text/plain,text/html";boundary="=====================_1427600==_.ALT" --=====================_1427600==_.ALT As I understood the problem it was cutting a hole in a cork ring the rightsizeto allow the hood of an uplocking reel seat to fit in it.I've described how I turn a very thin sectioned Al tube I guess it basicalyisso the OD is the same as the hood but I didn't describe the way I actuallycutthe hole mainly because I had hoped I wouldn't be asked but since I havebeen...My old Tech lecturer would have a fit....I hold the cork ring so it's snug in my palm and I sort of push it onto thecutter. In fact it's not as bad as it sounds as the cutter being so thin andthe cork cutting so easily because the cutter is so thin you don't needmuchforce at all and the cork cuts. I guess if you were afraid of taking a coresample of your hand you could place a piece of wood behind the cork andpush itonto the cutter using the tailstock and dead centre but as I say, it's not asbad as it sounds and works well. Tony At 09:36 AM 3/25/00 -0600, nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. Is it the recess for the reel seatyou are cutting here ? I can see how a ring shaped cutter might can beturnedon a lathe, from alum., as cork is so soft. I can see how a counter boretoolcould be used to cut the recess in a drill press, or milling machine, butI'mmissing what is being done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- From: Harry Boyd Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AM Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony, How do you keep the cork centered? Do you somehow hold it in the tailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Harry Tony Young wrote: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimensionand use this to cut the cork. /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1427600==_.ALT As I understood the problem it was cutting a hole in a cork ring theright size to allow the hood of an uplocking reel seat to fit in it.I've described how I turn a very thin sectioned Al tube I guess itbasicaly is so the OD is the same as the hood but I didn't describe theway I actually cut the hole mainly because I had hoped I wouldn't beasked but since I have been...My old Tech lecturer would have afit....I hold the cork ring so it's snug in my palm and I sort of push it ontothe cutter. In fact it's not as bad as it sounds as the cutter being sothin and the cork cutting so easily because the cutter is so thin youdon't need much force at all and the cork cuts. I guess if you wereafraid of taking a core sample of your hand you could place a piece ofwood behind the cork and push it onto the cutter using the tailstock anddead centre but as I say, it's not as bad as it sounds and works well. Tony At 09:36 AM 3/25/00 -0600, nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. Isit the recess for the reel seat you are cutting here ? I can see how aring shaped cutter might can be turned on a lathe, from alum., as cork isso soft. I can see how a counter bore tool could be used to cut therecess in a drill press, or milling machine, but I'm missing what isbeing done, I think ???? GMA ----- Original Message ----- From:Harry Boyd Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:34 AMSubject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Tony, somehow hold it in thetailstock, or just hold it in your hand? Tony Young wrote: dimension and /*************************************************************************/AV Young And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1427600==_.ALT-- from piscator@crosswinds.net Sat Mar 25 11:20:12 2000 (envelope- from piscator@crosswinds.net) Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Agatine is glass. Brian from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 11:21:10 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 11:09:49 -0600 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60 Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic is just =diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating =form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and =most ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to =see if this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work =was chrome plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any =metal is being eroded. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:41 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agate =stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any = solution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for =theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, =becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than =the areaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not =beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch =into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on =an oldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't =mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by =thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within =theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the =Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY =causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an =extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). =Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause =atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I =think thestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60 Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic= diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating = engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and most = metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to see if this = will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work was chrome plated. = eroded. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Ralph= Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AM stippersCan't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just = agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem = metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer = ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on an oldrod = "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty = effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I think = Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BF964C.85BCFF60-- from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Sat Mar 25 11:32:47 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwell too. from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Mar 25 11:34:12 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 25 Mar 2000 11:34:59 -0600 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720 I should have said 50/50 with water, for the dilution of the muratic =acid. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:23 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the muratic is just =diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome plating =form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, and =most ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to =see if this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work =was chrome plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any =metal is being eroded. GMA Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:41 AMSubject: Re: bluing agatine stippers Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old =agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected =any by thesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did = ferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, =becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently =than the areaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not =beenpreviously filed took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch =into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going =on an oldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't =mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected = solution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a ="HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both =within the U.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using the =Payneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERY =causticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an =extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the =chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or =cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I =think thestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720 I should have said 50/50 with water, for the dilution of = muratic acid. GMA ----- Original Message ----- nobler Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 = AM stippers Hydrochloric acid is the same as muratic acid, the = just diluted more. I use muratic acid, mixed 50/50 to strip chrome = form engine cylinders, almost daily ! It will eat chrome in a hurry, = ferrous metals. Brass is unaffected at all. I've not tried N.S., to = this acid will etch it. I suspect the agatine guide metal work was = plated. It will show signs of bubbling pretty quick, when any metal is = eroded. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Ralph= Cc: RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, March 25, = AM stippersCan't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just = old agate stripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not = the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard = surface that behaved differently than the areaof the feet that = took a lo-o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through = ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on an = the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't = Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was = "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty = both within theU.S. and across the border.Hope this = = chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). = dipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause = Hoy ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF964E.57EE1720-- from MasjC1@aol.com Sat Mar 25 12:28:46 2000 Subject: Re: "An Honest Angler" Your post is most timely. I just finished it last night. I thought it was a great read, very entertaining. It makes a great bedside companion as allthe entries -- I hesitate to call them chapters -- are short. Just perfect to relax before going to sleep. Mark Cole from bob@downandacross.com Sat Mar 25 12:30:33 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise howbest to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from cbogart@shentel.net Sat Mar 25 12:53:08 2000 (5.0.2195) boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_"Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_ Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text--- I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_ Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963424=_=_=_-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat Mar 25 13:12:52 2000 11:19:40 PST Subject: re: blueing agatine strippers The Payne formula will not damage the agatine or agate stripping guides. The frames of many of thesestripping guides do not blue as deeply or as quickly as other componentssuch as ferrules or reelseathardware, but they will color. I assumed it had something to do with thenickel content, but it could be aplating of some kind. If you get a splotchy uneven blueing then you canbuff the area with 0000 and re bluewith more even results. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from bob@downandacross.com Sat Mar 25 14:20:47 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment Yeah, that works pretty good on PVC too. I picked that one up from LeftyKreh. That would make it easier to swap end for end too. Thanks,Chris.Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote: Paul/ Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop in the end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it with White "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of oldlinesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leadersandbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from sniderja@email.uc.edu Sat Mar 25 14:45:30 2000 Subject: Re: bluing agatine stippers I have used it on both agate and agateen with no difficulties. I was usingDave LeClair's Payne product.J. Snider At 11:41 AM 03/25/2000 -0500, Ralph MacKenzie wrote:Can't speak with certainty for agatine, but I just blued an old agatestripperwith the Payne solution, and the agate did not seem to be affected any bythesolution. It did take *much* longer to blue the metal than it did for theferrules. I can't say for sure that the metal was nickel silver, becausethere seemed to be a hard outer surface that behaved differently than theareaof the feet that had been filed. The rest of the metal that had not beenpreviously filed took a lo- o-ong time, as if I had to etch into/through itsomewhat, and ultimately looked slightly "eroded", but it was going on anoldrod so the look fit well with the overall appearance, so I didn't mind. Iused monofiliment line to dunk the stripper, and it was unaffected by thesolution. You might try that instead of a paper clip. I believe, (but haven't looked it up) that the primary ingredient isconcentrated Hydrochloric acid, which being classified as a "HazardousMaterial", would probably explain the difficulty shipping, both within theU.S. and across the border. Hope this helps ya - mac Bill Hoy wrote: Working on my first rod, I have blued all my NS hardware using thePayneformula fluid except the agatine stripper. Payne formula is VERYcausticstuff (Using a paper clip to dip the sliding band caused an extremelysevere chemical reaction, so I'm very respectful of the chemistry). Willdipping the agatine into this chemistry damage the agatine? Or cause atoxic gas effluence? I bought the agatine from Golden Witch so I thinkthestripper i a whitehead. TIA,Bill Hoy from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 14:52:08 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 12:52:01 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork nobler wrote: I'm not clear on what the task is here. George,Tony's got it right. I was trying to figure out asimple way to cut the recess in the first cork of the gripinto which a hood fits on uplocking reel seats. Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sat Mar 25 21:01:14 2000 Subject: Re: blueing In a message dated 03/24/2000 8:06:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca writes: Shawn,I've seen a lot of rods over the years, that werefifty to one hundred years old, with the oxidizing on the ferrulesstill in good condition. If it is done right and taken care of overthe years, it will hold up a very long time. As to the shipping of my Oxidizer out of the USA, yes, it is because of what is in it. Hydrochloric acid, Arsenic, to namea couple of the compounds. This type of stuff is illegal to ship toCanada and other countries. The customs people will not let itgo through. I had a $900.00 order to Japan sent back to me, because it contained a bottle of Oxidizer. I had to remove the Oxidizer and reship the order, for another $100.00 shipping. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sat Mar 25 21:13:24 2000 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork In a message dated 03/25/2000 9:39:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, fbcwin@3g.quik.com writes: I've turned a very thin walled section of Al with the right dimension anduse this to cut the cork. >> I cut my cork ring, basically the same way Tony does his. Imake the grip, with one extra ring. Then I run a piece of tubing through the grip, leaving some sticking out of the front end. Iput this into my drill chuck, that is mounted in the tail stock ofmy lathe. Then I put a piece of the correct size tubing, with theend sharpened, into my lathe chuck. While the lathe is running,I crank my tail stock in, to bring the cork into the "cutter." Withthe tubing going through the center of the grip into the tail stockdrill chuck, the grip stays on center with the lathe chuck, as youcut out the piece for the hidden cap. It works for me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Mar 25 22:40:57 2000 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:40:48 -0800 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Sounds like a good idea, Dave. I like to form my grips on the rod blank, andinthat case, I don't think it would work. I formed the ring for the hood in thelathe, then glued it to the rest of the grip. Then I turned the whole thinginthe lathe. It's not easy to keep centered, but it can be made to work withalittle trial and error. Harry LECLAIR123@aol.com wrote: I cut my cork ring, basically the same way Tony does his. Imake the grip, with one extra ring. Then I run a piece of tubingthrough the grip, leaving some sticking out of the front end. Iput this into my drill chuck, that is mounted in the tail stock ofmy lathe. Then I put a piece of the correct size tubing, with theend sharpened, into my lathe chuck. While the lathe is running,I crank my tail stock in, to bring the cork into the "cutter." Withthe tubing going through the center of the grip into the tail stockdrill chuck, the grip stays on center with the lathe chuck, as youcut out the piece for the hidden cap. It works for me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from channer1@rmi.net Sun Mar 26 01:24:51 2000 Subject: Re: Uplocking reel seat cork Harry Boyd wrote: Sounds like a good idea, Dave. I like to form my grips on the rod blank,and inthat case, I don't think it would work. I formed the ring for the hood inthelathe, then glued it to the rest of the grip. Then I turned the whole thinginthe lathe. It's not easy to keep centered, but it can be made to work withalittle trial and error. Harry Harry;Here's yet another way. I made a block of wood with an 1 1/4" recess init that I use in my drill press to drill the center holes in the rings,with this it is easy enough to drill the correct size hole for the hood.When I glue up the grip I have a wooden filler plug I made that has astep down in it so the hood ring fits on it,I glue up the grip carefullyso I don't get glue on the wood plug, then (after i make sure the plugwill come off)I just leave it in place while I shape the grip and finishout the rod, mounting the reel seat is the last thing I do. Works forme.JohnJohn from stpete@netten.net Sun Mar 26 09:30:12 2000 Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sun Mar 26 09:41:57 2000 Subject: Re: Just Curious I like the Hardy Bougle. It just looks right on a cane rod. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Mar 26 10:30:23 2000 Subject: RE: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0 Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a lot of long thought. Not too =expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real nice.I got mine =via auction. Brand new.No affiliation.....etc.RandallG. NW Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0 Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a = thought. Not too expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real = Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF9257.028146E0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 11:01:35 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 10:50:15 -0600 Subject: Re: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340 Regardless of the rod fished, I simply can't get caught up in paying =hundreds for a reel, that really only is to store the line, for most =fishing conditions. I've had Tarpon on, that would have weighed well =over 150 lbs., and they never burned up the drag on my Pfleuger 1495 =type reel. If money were no object, I could easily enjoy the quality of =a finely machined Finnor, or the like. Still, I'd much rather put those =dollars into a fine cane tool ! I've never seen a Ballan. Is there a web site that shows a listing of =them ? GMA Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 10:28 AMSubject: RE: Just Curious Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after a lot of long thought. Not too =expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price was real nice.I got mine =via auction. Brand new.No affiliation.....etc.RandallG. NW Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340 Regardless of the rod fished, I simply can't get caught up = paying hundreds for a reel, that really only is to store the line, for = fishing conditions. I've had Tarpon on, that would have weighed well = lbs., and they never burned up the drag on my Pfleuger 1495 type reel. = were no object, I could easily enjoy the quality of a finely = Finnor, or the like. Still, I'd much rather put those dollars into a = tool ! I've never seen a Ballan. Is there a web site that shows a = of them ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Randall= Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 = AMSubject: RE: Just Curious Rick, I just got a Ballan reel after = long thought. Not too expensive, yet traditionally styled.The price = nice.I got mine via auction. Brand new.No = Arkie ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF9712.F6146340-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:27:49 2000 Subject: Rectangular Quad I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has the shorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 11:30:54 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Reels The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBayauctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam'sreels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels.You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going tolook more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminumand looks nice on the cane. I like the really cheap Deerfield Elites atabout $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with their olive greenanodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they are great. You canalso find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They are greatreels for the price, and you grandfather or father may have had one inthe later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:47 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 09:49:44 -0800 Subject: RE: Just Curious Isn't a St. George a little big for trout?If you're worried that a reel is a little too expensive than it probably is.Whatever you get use it. I wouldn't scratch it on purpose though. It'll getscratched enough from use all by itself. If I were to mark it I would do iton the inside of the frame. I think it is tacky to buy an expensive reel andthen deface it visibly when there are other options. It shows no respectforthe reel. I mean this is really an aesthetic purchase here. There are lotsof decent cheap reels that will "do the job" just as well. A several hundreddollar reel is like buying a Mercedes as opposed to an Chevy Impala. Nowdon't get me wrong. I think that aesthetics is important. I fish as much asI can and the last thing I want to do is to fondle some cheap piece of crapall day long. I spent hours building on my rods, I want a reel that someone(at least) spent hours designing. I used to be a mechanic and I remember a Consumer Reports article about atool comparison between Craftsman and Snap-On wrenches. Of course thearticle came out and said that they found no difference between thequalityof the two (and in fact as far as this goes I would not completelydisagreewith them too much) that neither had a mechanical superiority over theother. Well the person who wrote the article didn't handle tools all day andthey totally missed the point as far as mechanics are concerned. You arehandling tools all day long and the Snap-On just felt better. You took pridein your work and you wanted to feel good as you worked as well as at theendof the day. Same thing applies here. You fish all day and your hands areconstantly on the reel. You want something that feels good. (note on the Craftsman tools. I ended up using the Craftsman tools morebecause they have ribs and were not as smoothly finished as the Snap- On. Iwas a Marine Mechanic and I would be working on a boat (big boat) andhaveoil on my hands and I couldn't hold on to the wrenches as well. I startedloosing them in the bilge (area underneath the main engine), a lot of timesyou were not going to get your wrench back until they re-powered theboat!) Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from flyh2o@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 26 12:00:22 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:59:49 +0000 Subject: Re: Reels boundary="------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836" --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836 Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag ratherthan fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150. bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay auctions.They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's reelsthat are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. Youmight also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going tolook more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for mycanes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the reallycheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bouglewith their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45,they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay fornothing. They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather orfather may have had one in the later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836 Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag rather thanfiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150.bob maulucci wrote:The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoingeBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about theAdam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerlessreels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I amgoing to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle withtheir olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they aregreat. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing.They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather or father may havehad one in the later classic cane era.BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." --------------3A3A96920AF851447ADC5836-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 12:13:14 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. I boughtseveral 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. I neverpaid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line was worthit. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger pricing breakdown?Bob At 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote:Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard,metal disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e- bay....a1494 just went for $150. bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via hisongoing eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good thingsabout the Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan andPeerless reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about$500. I am going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado#2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I likethe really cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the HardyBougle with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about$45, they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay father may have had one in the later classic cane era. Bob Maulucci ================================================== downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com-- Mike Leitheiser Lake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state." Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 12:15:53 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 10:15:50 -0800 Subject: RE: Reels boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920 I used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line gettingcaught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to HardyMarquis (spelling?) with the rim control and stopped having the problems. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag rather thanfiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for $150.bob maulucci wrote: The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay auctions. Theyare low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's reels that aretraditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. You might alsoconsider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going to look more intothe Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my canes. It isaluminumand looks nice on the cane. I like the really cheap Deerfield Elites atabout $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with their olive green anodizedfinish. With the spools at about $45, they are great. You can also findplenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They are great reels for theprice, and you grandfather or father may have had one in the later classiccane era. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920 to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line getting = between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to Hardy problems. Jensen LeitheiserSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 = ReelsActually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, = disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a = The Ballan's are available from Bill via his= eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about = Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and = reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I = going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 = my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the = Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle with = olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, they are = You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for nothing. They = great reels for the price, and you grandfather or father may have = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D downandacross.com =bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF970C.21006920-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 12:16:22 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Hi Darryl:How do you figure the dimensions for the sides? I think this is a MichaelMontagne (sp?) idea. I remember reading that his quads were rectangular.Sounds interesting. Something to think about while I await my Hand Milland quad cutter set. Might make a Poor Man's Quad while I wait to testthis. Thanks for sharing,Bob At 12:27 PM 3/26/00 -0500, you wrote: I found that bamboo rods that"tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flatmeasurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has the shorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. Iwouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't getnoticedright away.Darryl Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 12:25:52 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:14:18 -0600 Subject: Re: Reels boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060 I picked up a new Medallist on eBay, not long ago, for about $30. It =seems fine, but was made in China ! GMA Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 12:14 PMSubject: RE: Reels I used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line =getting caught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to =Hardy Marquis (spelling?) with the rim control and stopped having the =problems. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:58 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels Actually, OLD Pfluegers (round line guard, metal disk for drag =rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on e-bay....a 1494 just went for = The Ballan's are available from Bill via his ongoing eBay =auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good things about the Adam's=reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and Peerless reels. =You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at about $500. I am going =to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross Colorado #2 ($150) for my=canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. I like the really =cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the Hardy Bougle =with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at about $45, =they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on eBay for =nothing. They are great reels for the price, and you grandfather or = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060 I picked up a new Medallist on eBay, not long ago, for = It seems fine, but was made in China ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Jensen Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: RE: Reels used to use Pfluegers but I had occasional trouble with the line = caught between the edge of the spool and the case. I switched to Hardy = problems. Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of Mike LeitheiserSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000= rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Re: ReelsActually, OLD Pfluegers (round line = metal disk for drag rather than fiber) go for fairly big $ on = The Ballan's are available from Bill via = ongoing eBay auctions. They are low $200's. I have heard good = the Adam's reels that are traditionally styled like the Ballan and = Peerless reels. You might also consider the Saracione Mark I at = $500. I am going to look more into the Adams.I have a nice Ross = #2 ($150) for my canes. It is aluminum and looks nice on the cane. = the really cheap Deerfield Elites at about $45. They look like the = Bougle with their olive green anodized finish. With the spools at = $45, they are great. You can also find plenty of Pflueger reels on = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF971E.B3E67060-- from landeens@home.com Sun Mar 26 12:48:54 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP 0800 Subject: Unsuscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620 Please unscribe me for the time being SET RODMAKERS MAIL POSTPONE ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620 Please unscribe me for the time being SET RODMAKERS MAIL =POSTPONE ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9711.3D42F620-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Sun Mar 26 13:15:52 2000 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad How do you figure the dimensions for the sides? Not wanting to go too crazy with this idea, I went just.002 (.001 each strip for two strips) larger. If you want, try .004 and let me know how it worked.Darryl from bobspring@sisna.com Sun Mar 26 13:27:59 2000 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A44D4A9A0148; Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:26:05 -0700 Subject: Unsuscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270 ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270 ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01BF9720.3152A270-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 14:16:13 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any wayto splice the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you arethe most ingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from flyh2o@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 26 14:41:15 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:40:43 +0000 Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3" --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3 Look at this...http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latchcover(original and old).also all boogered up. Now at $58. Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made inJapan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. PreShakespeare reels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6dimples around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag diskwith the round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go figure,, Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices.http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188 bob maulucci wrote: Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. Ibought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured onthem. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew thesilk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does thePflueger pricing break down?Bob At 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote: --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latch Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in Shakespeare around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with theround line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for lessthan $75 or $80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that figure,, prices. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188bob maulucci wrote: worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that waspictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when Iknewthe silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does thePflueger pricing break down?BobAt 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote:--Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state." --------------3577F22329CA823A540906C3-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Mar 26 14:41:27 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:37:04 Subject: RE: sort of rod related BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w) Dear Bob, The videotape can be repaired but you'll need to build a four-spoolcounter- rotating scotch taper. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 PM Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way to splicethe tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are the mostingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks,Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w) Bob, counter-rotating scotch taper. Richard maulucciSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 relatedDisaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way to = the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are the most = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = --Boundary_(ID_dkbAetIzhpto2dOlOfQ6+w)-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:21:33 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:22:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0 Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better condition, and one =very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if it =has a silk line they are after ? GMA Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 2:38 PMSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Look at this... =http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in =Japan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. Pre =Shakespeare reels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6 =dimples around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk =with the round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go = Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices. = http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. I =bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. =I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line =was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0 Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better = one very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if = a silk line they are after ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Leitheiser maulucci Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Reels, now =Pflueger cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D29233= round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made in= spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with the = guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for less than $75 = cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D28748= worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line that = pictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only when = the silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does = -- Mike Leitheiser Lake = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D downandacross.com =bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF9737.400491E0-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Mar 26 15:23:40 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: RE: sort of rod related Do I need an old sewing machine motor for that?Bob At 03:37 PM 3/26/00 -0500, you wrote:DearBob, The videotape can be repairedbut you'll need to build a four-spool counter- rotating scotchtaper. Richard-----OriginalMessage-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu[ Behalf Of bob maulucciSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:14 PM Subject: sort of rod related Disaster. My VCR ate tape 2 of Wayne's video. Is there any way tosplice the tape back together? I know this is a bit off, but you are themost ingenious people I know. Please help. Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from martinjensen@home.com Sun Mar 26 15:45:23 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP ;Sun, 26 Mar 2000 13:45:20 -0800 "bob maulucci" Subject: RE: Reels, now Pflueger boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490 You could e-mail the seller and ask if he knows what kind of line is on thereel. At least the ad appears honest enough. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 1:24 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Wow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better condition, and onevery small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I wonder if it hasa silk line they are after ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: Mike Leitheiser Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 2:38 PMSubject: Re: Reels, now Pflueger Look at this...http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=292336336round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around spool latchcover(original and old).also all boogered up. Now at $58.Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made inJapan with or without RC reels are relatively inexpensive. PreShakespearereels seem to go for $20 to $50. The good old ones with 6 dimples aroundspool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with the roundlineguard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for less than $75 or$80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that figure,, Look at this one for $152. See e-bay closed items for info on prices.http://cgi.ebay.com/aw- cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=287486188 bob maulucci wrote: Really, I thought only the Bulldog model was worth any money. Ibought several 149_'s just for the silk line that was pictured on them. Inever paid more than $35-40. That was only when I knew the silk line wasworth it. These must be post 1950, then? How does the Pflueger pricingbreakdown?BobAt 09:57 AM 3/26/00 -0800, you wrote: --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon"When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --Mike LeitheiserLake Oswego, Oregon "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490 could e-mail the seller and ask if he knows what kind of line is on the = least the ad appears honest enough. Jensen noblerSent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 1:24 = PfluegerWow, I have a couple of that vintage, in far better = and one very small 149?, that has a stuck/shrunk plastic handle. I = it has a silk line they are after ? GMA ----- Original Message ----- Leitheiser maulucci Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Reels, now =Pflueger cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D29233= round line guard, metal spool latch cover, 6 dimples around = Post purchase by Shakespeare or whoever it was and then the made = around spool latch cover, metal spool latch cover and drag disk with = round line guard get spendy....I don't think I have seen one go for = than $75 or $80 unless maybe the one above doesn't meet that = cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D28748= worth any money. I bought several 149_'s just for the silk line = pictured on them. I never paid more than $35-40. That was only = the silk line was worth it. These must be post 1950, then? How = -- Mike Leitheiser Lake = Bob = ==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= bob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BF9729.648E6490-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:52:48 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:53:39 -0600 Subject: Fw: PHY Midge boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0 Subject: Re: PHY Midge Hi Steven, At last, I've taken the Midge measurements, working as best I can around =my wraps.0" @ tip top =3D .0685" =3D .07710" =3D .09715" =3D .11720" =3D .12525" =3D .14230" =3D .14735" =3D .17136.25" =3D .175 ( just short of the wraps, on the tip male ferrule )37" from tip top to seat of male ferrule.2.375" =3D .196 ( from end of female ferrule to end of wrap )5" =3D .19710" =3D .21015" =3D .21220" =3D .22625" =3D .22830" =3D .24031" =3D .242 (@ front of grip)Total length of butt section =3D38" Total grip =3D 7", including reel seat. Over all length 6'-3" I hope this helps. It will be interesting to compare mine with others =made later. I got mine shortly after he listed it in his catalog. GMA Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 12:32 AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that the tapers in the Rodmakers taper file and the =one in Howell's book are quite different from each other? I'd like to =feel a little more confident about which numbers to use. I have read =that Paul Young's rods had a lot of variance among the same models. Does =anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms =either one of the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0 From:nobler = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:38 PMSubject: Re: PHY Midge Hi Steven, At last, I've taken the Midge measurements, working asbest = around my wraps.0" @ tip top =3D .0685" =3D .07710" =3D .09715" =3D .11720" =3D .12525" =3D .14230" =3D .14735" =3D .17136.25" =3D .175 ( just short of the wraps, on the tip male = )37" from tip top to seat of male ferrule.2.375" =3D .196 ( from end of female ferrule to end of wrap= )5" =3D .19710" =3D .21015" =3D .21220" =3D .22625" =3D .22830" =3D .24031" =3D .242 (@ front of =grip) 6'-3" I hope this helps. It will be interesting to compare mine = catalog. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Steven= Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000= AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that thetapers = Rodmakers taper file and the one in Howell's book are quite different = each other? I'd like to feel a little more confident about which = use. I have read that Paul Young's rods had a lot of = same models. Does anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms either= the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BF973B.A529ADE0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Mar 26 15:53:20 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:54:12 -0600 Subject: Fw: PHY Midge boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00 Subject: Re: PHY Midge Looking at the other taper given I took them a bit differently. My butt =section is measured from the end of the female down the butt section. =This means the first 5" dimension is taken 5" from the end of the female =ferrule, as are all the others for this section. Still, it seems very =close to the other rod listed. My thinking was to get as close as possible to the dimensions where the =ferrules are mounted. GMA Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 12:32 AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that the tapers in the Rodmakers taper file and the =one in Howell's book are quite different from each other? I'd like to =feel a little more confident about which numbers to use. I have read =that Paul Young's rods had a lot of variance among the same models. Does =anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms =either one of the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00 From:nobler = Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 3:51 PMSubject: Re: PHY Midge Looking at the other taper given I took them a bit = butt section is measured from the end of the female down the butt = means the first 5" dimension is taken 5" from the end of the female = are all the others for this section. Still, it seems very close to the = listed. My thinking was to get as close as possible to the = the ferrules are mounted. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Steven= Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000= AMSubject: PHY Midge Has anyone noticed that thetapers = Rodmakers taper file and the one in Howell's book are quite different = each other? I'd like to feel a little more confident about which = use. I have read that Paul Young's rods had a lot of = same models. Does anyone have a PHY midge taper that is different , or that confirms either= the ones I mentioned?Steve ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BF973B.B8D69B00-- from rsgould@cmc.net Sun Mar 26 16:50:09 2000 Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,I prefer the "Perfect" by Hardy for the perfect fly reel.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 16:55:38 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Silk Fly Lines and Leader Attachment 99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255" --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255 Bob /Chris....I have been using loops on my Salmon lines for a few yearsnow . Have been using two nail knots with 8 lb test. Has worked great nail knot at the terminal end with a silk line for trout fishing wouldwork well with very little bulk. 2Cents.....Rich bob maulucci wrote: Yeah, that works pretty good on PVC too. I picked that one up fromLefty Kreh. That would make it easier to swap end for end too. Thanks,Chris.Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote: Paul / Bob If you want to go loop to loop then you can make a loop inthe end of the Silk Line itself - Just fold it over and then wrap itwithWhite "A" Silk and varnish the wrap. I have had a number of oldlinesthat was done this way and I have done the same with my newer lines. The braided loop will work but tradition says . . . Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 13:28:03 -0500 I have mine with a spliced braided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the 'list 'please advise how best to attach leadersandbacking to silk fly lines ?Many thanks.....Paul BNote to allthose interested; I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trickforcleaning old silk lines and it worked absolute magic.In England thisissold as sodium bicarbonate with the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by my local pharmacist ).Iam currently re coating with a tungoil/varnish mix and this isworkinwell too. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255 Bob /Chris....I have been using loops on my Salmon lines for a few years worked a single nail knot at the terminal end with a silk line for trout fishing bob maulucci wrote: picked that one up from Lefty Kreh. That would make it easier to swap end Bob At 01:52 PM 3/25/00 -0500, you wrote:Paul/ Bob If you want to goloopto loop then you can make a loop inthe end of the SilkLine itself - Just fold it over and then wrap it withWhite "A" Silk andvarnish the wrap. I have had a number of old linesthat was done thisway and I have done the same with my newer lines.The braided loopwillwork but tradition says . . . Chris --Original MessageText---From: bobmaulucciDate: Sat,25Mar 2000 13:28:03 - 0500 I have mine with asplicedbraided leader from Orvis. Works well.Bob At 05:34 PM3/25/00-0800, you wrote:Can anyone on the'list'please advise how best to attach leaders andbacking to silk flylines ?Many thanks.....PaulBNote to allthoseinterested;I tried Mr Curry's baking soda trick forcleaning old silklinesand it worked absolute magic.In England this issold as sodiumbicarbonatewith the chemical formula NaHCO3 ( I amadvised by mylocalpharmacist ).Iam currently recoatingwith a tungoil/varnish mix and this is workinwelltoo. BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com BobMaulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --------------99F92EB09C3630C45F9F2255-- from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 17:10:10 2000 Subject: [Fwd: Rectangular Quad] 163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- 163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405 --------------163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Darryl is this the same thing as reduced vibration. It is quite evident onmy Payne 96 that when you stroke the rod, the tip comes to a dead stop. Ialso have found that with my one piece T&T's but not quite as much. ThePayne tips are fine...does that make a difference? Always wondered whatfactors caused that sudden deading with no vibration but never newwhy.......Rich DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has theshorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl --------------163B0A881B777F1CF54F3405-- from knflyrod@home.com Sun Mar 26 17:29:42 2000 (InterMail v4.01.01.00 201-229-111) with SMTP Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:29:38 -0800 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Just Curious Ray, You are a man of good sense and taste. There can be nothing like a"Perfect". The feel and smoothness cannot be surpassed. Yet I have somecustomers who can afford any reel they want and a couple who could buymostreel companies who will fish with nothing but Medalist (Made in USA). Gofigure. Ron Huff----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,I prefer the "Perfect" by Hardy for the perfect fly reel.Ray----- Original Message -----From: Rick C. Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:28 AMSubject: Just Curious Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 17:37:05 2000 trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Mar 27 13:26:40 2000 Subject: Re: Rectangular Quad Hi Darryl,You've posted an interesting item in regards to how to make a rod thatoscillates in a single plane. Finding the "spine" in a rod is done by quitea few rod builders and I believe that Letcher Lambuth who did early workonthe spiral rod called finding the spine a "synchronizing" process. Histheory was the the spine should be found for both the tip section and thebutt section and then that the two should be placed in alignment. It standsto reason the the quad you described would oscillate in the plane with thelesser distance across the flats since it would be natural for the rod toseek the course of least resistance in releasing energy. The rod is actuallystiffer across the other two flats so the issue becomes somewhat of atradeoff.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Rectangular Quad I found that bamboo rods that "tracked" - that is oscillated backand forth only in a straight line ( the tip did not describe an ovalwhen gently wiggled) tend to cast more accurately. I set aboutto make a rod that tracked no matter what. It was easy to do witha quad. You just make it slightly larger in one flat to flat measurementthan the other. In other words rectangular in cross section. The rodthen tracks when you put the guides one of the flats that has theshorter flat to flat dimension. After extensive testing - trying to hit small targets with a fly - Iwould say that it does make a difference. Not a huge difference,but a difference where hitting the target is a little easier. I wouldfile this one as a factor that refines a rod, but wouldn't get noticedright away.Darryl from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Mon Mar 27 13:40:21 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Re: reels Brian,As an englishman and rod builder I would have to agree'NOTHING'beats anAmerican production rod.The majority of the Bristish tapers I wouldnever dream of fishing..............As for your comments on reels, sure Hardy build some good reels at areasonable price but don't forget so do some of your fellow countrymen ! Regards.........Paul B Brian Sturrock wrote: Ah the SOUND of a Hardy *G*Don I've got quite TOO many around myplace.On mySpeys I now use EXCLUSIVELY a #2 Salmon Marquis On my # 5 Andy Barr iuse aMarquis * 6 Multiplier that Don Perry helped me with parts.Thankx againDon.Got 3 Perfects that are gathering more patina English reels yeah, but NOTHING beats American rods !!(the factoryvarietyof course)Cheers Brian from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Mon Mar 27 14:58:05 2000 SMTP id IAA24694; Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:56:58 +1200 Subject: RE: Sanding Blank Chris and Darryl, I have played around with this on several occasions ( you can speculate asto why) after darryl's mention a year or so ago. I have used a scraper alongthe marked section on the blank say three passes on each face of the blankand this will reduce the thickness by about 003. Using a scraper can makeaslightly wavey surface but this can then be sanded.It is always obvious inthe first few passes that there is a slight curve in the face of each sideand the reduction in the total number of fibres is not great as it is thispeak that is taken off. The scraper only takes a sliver off the centre ofthe face. Also to confirm Chris's comments I have now learnt to recognise a blankwhich has been scraped/sanded. I can say most of the Hardy rods I ownhavebeen sanded ( some would say not enough) and a number of other "better"makes also. Possibly this reduction of the surface of blanks was a muchmorewidespread "tunning" operation then is usually acknowledged. regards Ian Kearney At 02:22 PM 27/03/00 EST, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensest outside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibers running through the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then you shouldbe ouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:17:16 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: silk lines Anyone who might be interested in a new Phoenix line at 30%off contact me off line. I would like to get some for myself and a fewcustomers, but the price break is at ten lines. Also, delivery would beJuly at best. Thanks,Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from drossiter@uswest.net Mon Mar 27 15:17:59 2000 Subject: Re: Sanding Blank I built my first rod using Wayne Cattenach's 7'6" taper for #4 line. Ididn't really know what I was doing, so I built two butt sections -- just tobe on the safe side. As it turned out, the first butt section worked just fine. So I reduced theextra butt to fit a Jim Payne 100 taper. I was aware that this is a bigNo- No and I halfway expected a big lightning bolt to come down throughtheceiling on me. But it seemed a shame to leave a perfectly good butt section sitting on theshelf. I haven't fished that rod yet, but I plan to take it out as soon asthe streams clear. We'll see what happens... David ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Sanding Blank Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensestoutside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibers runningthrough the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then youshould beable to remove .005" from each flat for a total of .010" removal ifmeasureing from flat to flat. You might get away fine with even moreremovalthen that. On the other hand if the rod was significantly sanded during theproductionprocess and a good portion was already removed from the outside ofthestripsthen taking more might weaken the rod considerably. I think you havetoassume that the tip section strips would contain power fiber all thewaythrough since they are only perhaps .100" at the base. Most wouldagreethatthe densest fibers are oriented to the outside of the culm just undertheenamel. If you look at a few Orvis rods (older ones anyway) it becomes apparentthata great deal of scraping/sanding is done to the enamel side of thestripsused on these rods. I would be surprised if Orvis didn't remove atleast.010" from the enamel sides of each strip in the processes they used.Maybethat is why their tapers seem thick. The safe thing to do would be to mark the areas you want to reduceaccordingto the stress curve you are shooting for and start with only a smallamountremoved equally from both sides, say .002". I would do a lot ofcastingwith taped on guides to recognize the change. Go slow with 220 grit paper on a block. Let us know how you come outonthis. I think Terry Kirkpatrick from Florida (who may be on this list) hasdonesome of this, but I don't remember how it all turned out for him. Chris------------------Original textFrom: "James" , on 3/27/00 10:09 AM: I am modifying an old mass-production blank to try to make it fishable,sort of a banty project. I've shortened it from 9' to 7.5'. I've runthe taper through hexrod and no matter what line size I try it generatesodd stress curves ( from left to right, the curve climbs slowly to a peakmuch farther to the right than any of the archived tapers). Inaddition, the rod is fairly beat up with a number of dents, dings andgouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:23:27 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sanding a banty I did this exact thing to a 9' Shakespeare rod with a crackedferrule. I made the mid section into the handle and then I retapered theremaining 6 feet into dimensions I got from running a Dickerson 7012through Hexrod making it into 6'. It casts a 3 wt. pretty poorly I must add. Fairly wimpy. I fear thatI over did it in order to get the dimensions. It is hard to get exactingdimensions across all the flats. I would not do it again. I feel like Imessed up a still usable rod. I should have replaced the crackedferrules. My .02, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 15:25:43 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: sanding I should have added that I had success in sanding down my ownblanks to get a better appearance. I just think that any drasticretapering is difficult to perform with any success. But more power toyou guys that can do it!Cheers, Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon Mar 27 15:27:15 2000 Subject: RE: Sanding Blank I don't think it was a tuning operation as much as itwas to improve the appearance. If you remove enoughof the outside, most if not all of the blemishes aregone.Darryl Also to confirm Chris's comments I have now learnt to recognise a blankwhich has been scraped/sanded. I can say most of the Hardy rods I ownhavebeen sanded ( some would say not enough) and a number of other "better"makes also. Possibly this reduction of the surface of blanks was a muchmorewidespread "tunning" operation then is usually acknowledged. regards Ian Kearney At 02:22 PM 27/03/00 EST, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Good for you! Another person who has debunked the"Don't touch the power fibers" myth.Darryl It would depend on how the rod was manufactured originally. If thedensest outside power fibers were left intact and there are good fibersrunning through the entire depth of the strips in the tip section then youshould be ouges. Nonetheless, I believe it can be saved. I'd like to sand itdown both to improve the finish and possibly to improve the taper. Myquestion is in a rod with a taper that starts at .095 at the tip top,how much material can be safely removed before the rod becomes tooweakto be trusted? Any help greatly appreciated. from stpete@netten.net Mon Mar 27 15:54:56 2000 Subject: THE BOOK is on sale Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from gjm80301@yahoo.com Mon Mar 27 16:43:12 2000 2000 14:43:09 PST Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan The basic Galvan reels have a better range of low-drag settings thanany other reel I have ever tried. I have owned Hardy featherweights(no palming) and my wife has a CFO and Abel TR-1. The Galvan is myfavorite. I'm not sure I need a disc drag , but if the price isbasically the same and the reel looks good - why not? Of course, I bought my 2 Galvans several years back - they were onlyabout $170 before they became well-known. --- "Darrell A. Lee" wrote:I love my modern reels... I have a Fin-Nor Fin-Ite 5/6 and a Galvan2.75which is about 4/5 reel. My Hardy Bougle is too pretty... it's gotthe hardleather case, box papers, serial numbered ltd edition model...Unfished...too pretty... so decided to put it on ebay. Wish I had bought spare spools for the Fin-Nor when they wereavailable...Anybody have a spare? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,New to the list. Have been lurking a few months and decided to trymy handin it tonight. When I get a new reel I decide by one factor. Icall itthe "wow" factor. Those of you that have experienced it will knowwhat I'mtalking about. When you pick up a reel and hold it in your handthere is acertain "warm" feeling that comes over you. If you get it....buyit. Theonly caveat is don't pick up a reel you can't or feel you can'tafford.(your a better man than I if you can follow that rule) No matterhow gooda deal you get if there is no "wow" factor stay away. Hope thishelps....RichRick C. wrote: Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I'vetradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking ofbuyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hardat thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since itisoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I enduptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with atpenknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfecttroutreels? Rick C. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 27 16:55:44 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: THE BOOK is on sale Hi Rick,Thanks for the post. Just ordered the book.....Rich Rick C. wrote: Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from harms1@prodigy.net Mon Mar 27 17:51:13 2000 Mon, 27 Mar 2000 18:50:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Just Curious boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0 Rick, Please, please before you purchase a new reel, be certain to try it on =your rod. The reason I suggest this is because the reels you have been =using are nearly half the weight of those you are considering (size-for =size) buying. The Peerless is an absolutely gorgeous piece of =craftsmanship, and its quality is unexcelled. But its weight is =HORRENDOUS! Reels like that just kill the feel of the rod in your hand. As an experiment, just try casting your favorite rod and line =combination without any reel at all. Strip most of the line off the =reel and string-up the rod--you'll quickly see what life the rod itself =has. Then wind up the line and mount the reel as usual. Lastly, =compare this to the Peerless or the St. George. I think you'll find your =rod becoming increasingly dead in your hand as you increase the weight =of the reel. Of course, the larger the rod, the less quickly this =becomes a problem. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ Subject: Just Curious I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I've =tradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking of buyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hard at =thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it isoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I end uptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one. Maybe =ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with at penknife =likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfect troutreels? Rick C. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0 Rick, Please,please = suggest this is because the reels you have been using are nearly half = absolutely gorgeous piece of craftsmanship, and its quality is = rod in your hand. As an experiment, just try= the line off the reel and string-up the rod--you'll quickly see what = think you'll find your rod becoming increasingly dead in your hand as = quickly this becomes a problem. cheers, =Bill -----------------------------------------------------Clic= here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/= ----- Original Message --- From: "Rick C." = Sent: Sunday, March 26,2000 = AM Curious folks! = = Peerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since it = C. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF981D.3C01FCE0-- from briansr@point-net.com Mon Mar 27 17:58:35 2000 Subject: Re:reels hi again folks.Methinks I shoulda said" nothing beats American FACTORYrods if they beaFACTORY rod !!!!!"Andy Barr ( A local Canadian) was building a real fineuntempered 5 sider out of extremely good quality cane back in the 50sthrough to the 80s.That being said when your all alone on a Salmon riverNOTHING beats the clackity clack of a Hardy when you strip out lineEXCEPT afine 7ft # 4 or 5 very light graphite rod -Yeah I'm guilty !!!!!!!!.Whileon subject,Isn't that Orvis Vortec an ugly looking ostentatious P.O.S. I'lladmit to lusting for a Bogdan,but e-bay and Lang's have managed to pricethese way out of my budget.Besides I enjoy palming a reel and believe meit's quite difficult , but not totally impossible to do this with thisdesignCheers Brian from briansr@point-net.com Mon Mar 27 18:07:01 2000 Subject: Re:just curious Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amount ofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian from bob@downandacross.com Mon Mar 27 18:08:59 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re:reels My buddy here has a click drag Orvis reel that he uses exclusively for steelhead. He lands over 150 fish every season with it. Works great withno drag except a click. I think it may be Hardy made. I will check.He feels it gives him better control than a heavy drag does.Bob At 06:57 PM 3/27/00 -0500, you wrote:hi again folks.Methinks I shoulda said" nothing beats American FACTORYrods if they beaFACTORY rod !!!!!"Andy Barr ( A local Canadian) was building a real fineuntempered 5 sider out of extremely good quality cane back in the 50sthrough to the 80s.That being said when your all alone on a Salmon riverNOTHING beats the clackity clack of a Hardy when you strip out lineEXCEPT afine 7ft # 4 or 5 very light graphite rod -Yeah I'm guilty !!!!!!!!.Whileon subject,Isn't that Orvis Vortec an ugly looking ostentatious P.O.S. I'lladmit to lusting for a Bogdan,but e-bay and Lang's have managed to pricethese way out of my budget.Besides I enjoy palming a reel and believe meit's quite difficult , but not totally impossible to do this with thisdesignCheers Brian from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Mar 27 18:41:20 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan I've found out that the OB-1 Galvan spool will interchange with the 2.75reel if you want a large arbor spool... Marty, the disc drags may be overkill but both reels I won at differentflyfishing meetings raffles... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Just Curious - another vote for galvan The basic Galvan reels have a better range of low-drag settings thanany other reel I have ever tried. I have owned Hardy featherweights(no palming) and my wife has a CFO and Abel TR-1. The Galvan is myfavorite. I'm not sure I need a disc drag , but if the price isbasically the same and the reel looks good - why not? Of course, I bought my 2 Galvans several years back - they were onlyabout $170 before they became well-known. --- "Darrell A. Lee" wrote:I love my modern reels... I have a Fin-Nor Fin-Ite 5/6 and a Galvan2.75which is about 4/5 reel. My Hardy Bougle is too pretty... it's gotthe hardleather case, box papers, serial numbered ltd edition model...Unfished...too pretty... so decided to put it on ebay. Wish I had bought spare spools for the Fin-Nor when they wereavailable...Anybody have a spare? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 6:32 PM Subject: Re: Just Curious Hi Rick,New to the list. Have been lurking a few months and decided to trymy handin it tonight. When I get a new reel I decide by one factor. Icall itthe "wow" factor. Those of you that have experienced it will knowwhat I'mtalking about. When you pick up a reel and hold it in your handthere is acertain "warm" feeling that comes over you. If you get it....buyit. Theonly caveat is don't pick up a reel you can't or feel you can'tafford.(your a better man than I if you can follow that rule) No matterhow gooda deal you get if there is no "wow" factor stay away. Hope thishelps....RichRick C. wrote: Morning folks! This pertains to rodmaking only peripherially. What is your favorite trout reel for your cane rods? I have been using Hardy Lightweights, JLHs and Orvis CFOs. I'vetradedseveral modern reels which I no longer use and am thinking ofbuyingmyself a nice reel but am unsure which to buy. I'm looking hardat thePeerless, but wonder if I'll choke on actually using it since itisoffensively expensive. I'm not a trout snob, but wonder if I enduptreating my gear so gingerly that I'd surely come off as one.Maybe ifI get one, I could just scratch my initials in it with atpenknife likegrandad used to do! That would make a certain type stroke out!How about a St.George? Or, have I already found the perfecttroutreels? Rick C. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Mar 27 19:10:40 2000 Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:09:58 -0400 Subject: Re: THE BOOK is on sale Great,I just paid $120 Canadian on e bay! When will I learn! Shawn "Rick C." wrote: Found this recently. Of course I have one which I paid full price for. No Commercial interest, OR endorsement. Just passing along aninteresting fact. http://www.wildadv.com/store/default2.asp?main=prodinfo.asp?number=rd- 013 Rick C. from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 27 19:22:49 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Reels Marty, I'll agree with you on your last point. I have a Teton number 3 (Ithink. It's really tiny.) that has a two weight line on it. The reelhas a superb disc drag, but for what I don't know! I'm certainly notgoing to go bonefishing with a two weight, nor will any of these 7"Joisey stocker brownies take me into the backing (of which it holdsabout 50 yards)! I will give it one thing though... The reel is aboutas smoooooth as a twenty five year old single malt! Dennis marty wrote: bob maulucci wrote: I would have to say my Abel TR-1 I have is the best reel I have pickedup. (that includes a Billy Pate salmon reel I have too.) Thoseserpentine handled knock offs are not the same quality as the Abel nomatter how cool they look. I agree with Rick's "Wow" factor idea.There is just a weight/feel thing that I get from the Abel. I don'tget that from the Ballans or Peerless. I would buy a bigger Abel formy cane rods, but I am not convinced that it looks right. The TR-1 isonly big enough for a 2 or 3 wt.Do you guys get the "wow" factor from the Ballans or Peerless?Anyone have an Adams or a $500 Saracione Mark I ? Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.comI have Adams , Peerless, Ballan, Orvis CFOII, Hardy Lightweights. Ofthe "serpentine Handle" nockoffs the Adams and Peerless are the best.These Traditional looking reels are OK on longer cane rods but on shortstuff nothing beats the CFO click series and Hardy Lightweight series perfects. They always reminded me of a "Tank", way more reel than youneed. I also dislike for trout rods of any material reels with diskdrags. If you can't land any trout with a click check drag you might aswell go home. Marty from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Mar 27 19:24:10 2000 Subject: Belding Corticelli Silk Thread I have some original B/C silk thread (Size A, 100 yds) in several colors for sale. Contact OFF LIST only! --Rich rmargiotta@aol.com from FISHWOOL@aol.com Mon Mar 27 20:33:54 2000 Subject: Re: RE: Sanding Blank Amen to that, Darryl.I can't really tell any difference in the power fibers from enamel to inner apex of each tip strip. On butts and or mids I would estimate I could remove up to .010" without beginning to get into areas where shades ofpith begin to appear and on some there is no discernible gradation all the way through. Of course removing .010" from each strip "might" change the taper somewhat. :-)Regards,Hank. from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Mar 27 21:55:27 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 27 Mar 2000 21:56:08 -0600 Subject: Whatisit ? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00 Well, I've lucked out again ! I received a beautiful "Doublebuilt" rod =today, I picked up off eBay ! I managed an almost mint So. Bend D.B. a =few months ago, and now this one. It has nothing on it, except the word =Doublebuilt in white ink script, reading away from the smallish Wells =style grip. Were it not for the name on it, the swelled butt, says it's a Heddon ! =The ferrules are machined N.S., with a rather wide, rounded welts. They =have the waterproofing plug inside the females too ! In contrast the =reel seat is alum. with a down locking chromed ring, pushing a chromed, =knurled ring to hold the reel. The wraps are bright yellow, with black tipping. Only the butt section =finish shows nicks in the varnish, as though bounced around on a metal =boat seat ! It's 8'-3-1/4" and feels to be a 6 wt., but not the fast =tip, the stiff butt would indicate. It flexes well into the top of the =butt section. It is a 3 - piece rod. In general the whole rod reeks of high quality, and came from an estate =that included an Orvis Superfine, and Hardy reels ! Anyone have a clue ? GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00 Well, I've lucked out again ! I received a beautiful = rod today, I picked up off eBay ! I managed an almost mint So. Bend D.B. = months ago, and now this one. It has nothing on it, except the word = grip. Were it not for the name on it, the swelled butt, says it's = Heddon ! The ferrules are machined N.S., with a rather wide, rounded = have the waterproofing plug inside the females too ! In contrast the = is alum. with a down locking chromed ring, pushing a chromed, knurled = hold the reel. The wraps are bright yellow, with black tipping. Only the = section finish shows nicks in the varnish, as though bounced around on a = boat seat ! It's 8'-3-1/4" and feels to be a 6 wt., but not the fast = stiff butt would indicate. It flexes well into the top of the butt = is a 3 - piece rod. In general the whole rod reeks of high quality, and came = estate that included an Orvis Superfine, and Hardy reels =! Anyone have a clue ? GMA ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF9837.736CDA00-- from mschaffer@mindspring.com Tue Mar 28 08:01:37 2000 Subject: Addy for old rod companies boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700 Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email addresses for the following rod =companies could you please send them along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700 Guys,Just a quickie, if anyone has email = the following rod companies could you please send them =along? LeonardPayneYoungOrvis Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF9893.F3F81700-- from earsdws@duke.edu Tue Mar 28 08:07:08 2000 JAA14696; Subject: Re: just curious Brian,I couldn't agree with you more. Last year I spent several days fishing aHardy CC DeFrance (8', 5wt) on the San Juan in New Mexico. My fore armwasthrobbing from trying to keep the tip of the rod up (with Orvis CFO IV). Itis much better now that I have "balanced" it out with an old PfulgerMedalist(given the size it was probably intended to be an 8 wt).One very "attractive" aspect of the newer graphite rods is that, withvirtually any reel, you ever have this problem.dws. Brian Sturrock wrote: Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amountofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Mar 28 08:31:48 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:31:23 +0800 Subject: Re: just curious I've sort of resisted getting into this one because I know just aboutnothing about reels in general being of the belief any reel that holdstogether well enough to stay between the fly and rod is good enough formeBUT a nice reel that doesn't cost much and works well is a LeedaDragonfly.It's a cartridge jobie which will turn lots away from it and it also is adisk drag which is nice and smooth so light tippets have a little more of achance and although you certainly don't need the disk drag it adds enoughweight to the reel so it does a nice job of balancing 6.5 - 7.5 foot bamboorods.I have a Hardy Princess which is a ridiculous reel for anybody to stingy tobuy a spare spool for (me) and I like the Dragonfly a lot better to use. Tony At 09:09 AM 3/28/00 -0500, David W. Smith, Ph.D. wrote:Brian,I couldn't agree with you more. Last year I spent several days fishing aHardy CC DeFrance (8', 5wt) on the San Juan in New Mexico. My fore armwasthrobbing from trying to keep the tip of the rod up (with Orvis CFO IV). Itis much better now that I have "balanced" it out with an old PfulgerMedalist(given the size it was probably intended to be an 8 wt).One very "attractive" aspect of the newer graphite rods is that, withvirtually any reel, you ever have this problem.dws. Brian Sturrock wrote: Some people are mentioning weight of reels harming and actuallydeadenningthe feel of a rod.One of my Spey rods (16ft Diamondback) has an amountofLEAD in the base of the blank to "help "balance" the feel of the rod!!!.Iguarantee I'll can fish all day for a week on a Salmon river with ease. Itactually makes the rod feel lighter !Flame away !!!!!!!Cheers Brian /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from listreader@codemarine.com Tue Mar 28 08:49:50 2000 codemarine.209.170.128.193 with SMTP (Microsoft ExchangeInternet Mail Service Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: Newbie rod photos Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide thenewbie builders out there (myself included, of course). I finally finishedthe first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos,which you can see at the web site below: http://www.ipass.net/~stevez/bamboorod/index.htm There are a few white speckles and glare spots on the photos due to theflash reflecting from the high-glossvarnish, but I think the shots are good enough to give you the general idea.Any feedback or observations(keeping in mind that this was my first rod) would be appreciated. Again, thanks!! Steve Zimmermansteve@codemarine.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Mar 28 09:56:12 2000 Tue, 28 Mar 2000 07:56:01 -0800 Subject: Re: Newbie rod photos Steve Zimmerman wrote: Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the help you haveprovided and continue to provide thenewbie builders out there (myself included, of course). I finally finishedthe first of the three-piece rods Ibegan way back in November. It's sure been a fun learning experience. Forthe heck of it, I took a few photos,which you can see at the web site below: Congratulations Steve! How does the rod cast? You can't tell us youhaven't tried it out in the