from saltwein@swbell.net Sat Apr 1 05:46:35 2000 (Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with ESMTP id for Subject: Re: Varnish tube I like this idea except for two reasons. My stair is close to my furnace,probably nothing to worry about really. I have berber carpet on the stairandas this would have to be a removable top portion, I am not too sure howwell itwould patch when the tube was not in use. I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone for their input. Youdefinitely have me thinking. Quite an accomplishment in and of itself. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO Martin Jensen wrote: I can plug up a three inch hole in the stair case pretty easily. Now if youhave hardwood stairs that is another thing. Actually you could patch thatpretty easily also. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 6:16 PM Subject: Varnish tube I would give serious thought to a drip tube before drilling a holeanywhere.Ed from lars32@gateway.net Sat Apr 1 06:21:27 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish If you look at Wayne Cattanach's book it shows a finishing booth that alsoserves as a drying cabinet. I would think that moving the rod out of the dipstation into a drying cabinet would result in dust on the rod blank. WithWayne's method the rod stays right in the dip station and with the additonof an air filter the finish is dust free.Works for me!Dave Norling----- Original Message----- Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve,I have a slab floor in my workshop, so the problem was the same asyours.I drilled through the floor with a borrowed impact drill. Expect a hugeamount of dust and noise, so use ear, nose, and eye protection and coveranystuff in the basement that you don't want coated in concrete dust. Iwoundup having to vacuum every square inch of my workshop, because once I gotthat impact drill going, I was so compulsive that I didn't stop until thathole was done!I located the hole in a corner of the shop so it was easy to build adust-tight cabinet to house the dipping assembly. The dia.of the hole wassufficient to allow a 10" piece of PVC to be installed in the hole. Thedepth will depend on the lifting space your ceiling will allow and thelength of sections you plan to dip. Mine has a 2' deep hole. I installedthePVC with about 2" above the slab and concreted around it and in thebottomof the hole to seal it off from the dirt.The cabinet encloses it all an goes up to the ceiling. Another cabinetis built next to the dipping cabinet to serve as the drying cabinet. Iwiredboth cabinets for electrical connections.Steve WeissI have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Apr 1 07:05:51 2000 Subject: Hardener for Urac 185 I have been experimenting with Urac mixtures and searching thearchives for a little while now and was curious about the substitutionof ammonium chloride for hardener. First of all some people said it wasammonium chloride and some said ammonium carbonate (the stuff used forbrown toning cane). I believe it is the chloride?The directions are not really clear. Do you mix the ACpowder/water combo into the resin or into the resin with walnut shellhardener already added?What are the mixture ratios? What makes this better than thestandard mix?It is thinner and doesn't have the gap filling properties. The onlybenefit I see is that it has a longer pot life. Why the heat drying withthis one as opposed to normal urac/hardener?Shawn from lars32@gateway.net Sat Apr 1 07:18:44 2000 Subject: Re: bamboo sources C&D Trading have the best cork in my book!Dave Norling-----Original Message- ---- RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: bamboo sources Hi Shawn,I have a couple comments. First in regards to the bamboo I have trust andconfidence in the C.H. Demarest Co. and believe it is wise to continue topurchase from them especially since I know they have personally visitedthetonkin cane forests and their suppliers so that we might receive bettercaneand so that we receive the right species. Harold Demarest has attendedmostall of our west coast work shops at Corbett Lake and at Troutdale andknowsmany of us personally and makes an effort to obtain good productson ourbehalf. That being said I see little reason to change. On the issue ofgetting good cork we've put together a group order at our Corbettworkshopsand gotten good cork from C&D Trading by ordering their best grade.You'llneed to check with them to get current pricing and minimum order size.Thelast email address I have for them is dpeter@pconline.com.RayRay----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 2:27 PMSubject: bamboo sources I have noticed lately that there are a lot of different suppliers forbamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest and TuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but I wasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order. Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other" guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? I meansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths.One new one I noticed and haven't heard much about isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers as itwill soon be time to order more.I am also looking for a new source for quality cork. My last stuffwas Extra select from REC but I am wondering if I could find evenbetter? Shawn from lars32@gateway.net Sat Apr 1 07:18:58 2000 Subject: Re: bamboo sources C&D Trading has the best cork in my book!Dave Norling-----Original Message-- --- RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: bamboo sources Hi Shawn,I have a couple comments. First in regards to the bamboo I have trust andconfidence in the C.H. Demarest Co. and believe it is wise to continue topurchase from them especially since I know they have personally visitedthetonkin cane forests and their suppliers so that we might receive bettercaneand so that we receive the right species. Harold Demarest has attendedmostall of our west coast work shops at Corbett Lake and at Troutdale andknowsmany of us personally and makes an effort to obtain good productson ourbehalf. That being said I see little reason to change. On the issue ofgetting good cork we've put together a group order at our Corbettworkshopsand gotten good cork from C&D Trading by ordering their best grade.You'llneed to check with them to get current pricing and minimum order size.Thelast email address I have for them is dpeter@pconline.com.RayRay----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 2:27 PMSubject: bamboo sources I have noticed lately that there are a lot of different suppliers forbamboo. When I first got into this there was only Demarest and TuxedoCane (I think) but now there are new ones popping up all over. Mrs.Demarest was most helpful when I ordered my first order (and in allcorrespondence afterward) which goes a long way in my books but I wasdebating trying one of these other ones out for a change next order. Myquestion is for people who have ordered from these "other" guys, Istheir cane as good as the pictures they have on their web sites? I meansome of this stuff looks phenomenal. I know that a picture tells athousand words, but not all of those words are necessarily truths.One new one I noticed and haven't heard much about isbamboopoles.comHas anyone anything to tell me about these or any other suppliers as itwill soon be time to order more.I am also looking for a new source for quality cork. My last stuffwas Extra select from REC but I am wondering if I could find evenbetter? Shawn from edriddle@mindspring.com Sat Apr 1 08:14:55 2000 Subject: Fw: Bamboo flyrod magazine Ouch:It was April 1 on part of this planet, but not here...I was caught out ofSeason. No releasing me...I swallowed the hook. :-(Ed-----Original Message-- --- Subject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine B.That's shocking.....Did anyone else get theirs? I didn't.Ed-----Original Message-----From: Robert Milardo Rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 5:19 PMSubject: Re: Bamboo flyrod magazine Actually Shawn I got mine last week. Awlfully nice article in thereaboutthemaritimes. Are you sure you paid your subscription fees? B. At 05:49 PM 3/31/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Hey guess what guys,I received an issue of BFRtoday!.............Not! Happy April fool's day a little early! That wascruel but I figured things are pretty slow on here and I'd take my kickat the can trying to start something.So has anyone heard anything more about BFR? Last I heard thelatest issue was supposed to be "in their office" and that they would besent out EARLY LASTmonth? What is the hold up?Someone?Shawn Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.Professor of Family Relations17 Merrill HallUniversity of MaineOrono, ME 04469(207) 581-3128(207) 581-3120 FAX from ernie2@pacbell.net Sat Apr 1 09:21:00 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: bamboo sources The law of supply and demand will always prevail unless the governmentgetsinvolved.Ernie -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: bamboo sources I suppose that it is in our interest as rodmakers to have severalsources of every item, including bamboo. However, seeing that themarket for rod quality Tonkin is probably a pitance compared to thetotal market for imported cane and rattan, which these suppliers bringin each year, wouldn't it be in our BEST interest to have a REGULAR andDEPENDABLE supply each and every year? Rick C. from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Sat Apr 1 09:37:01 2000 Subject: planing form Rodmakers Jan/Feb was the last I got. Dennis from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat Apr 1 10:27:11 2000 8:36:10 PST Subject: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware What is the reelseat hardware on the plastic downlocking "common"Heddon reelseat made from. It won't oxidizeso I've ruled out nickel silver. Is it aluminum? I've painted them withblack lacquer in the past, andthat's fine, but if it's aluminum I though I might try that aluminumblacking agent sold at gunshops, anyonetried that? The hardware patina has a slight green cast to it. Thanks for the help. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from leroyt@involved.com Sat Apr 1 10:41:24 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61049U4500L450S0V35)with SMTP id com; Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:41:20 -0800 Subject: RE: bamboo sources Have always felt that competition was good for the consumer and kepteverybody on the toes.Leroy............ -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 6:43 AM Subject: Re: bamboo sources The law of supply and demand will always prevail unless thegovernment getsinvolved.Ernie -----Original Message-----From: Rick C. Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:27 AMSubject: Re: bamboo sources I suppose that it is in our interest as rodmakers to have severalsources of every item, including bamboo. However, seeing that themarket for rod quality Tonkin is probably a pitance compared to thetotal market for imported cane and rattan, which these suppliers bringin each year, wouldn't it be in our BEST interest to have a REGULAR andDEPENDABLE supply each and every year? Rick C. from martinj@aa.net Sat Apr 1 10:59:41 2000 Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:59:35 -0800 "Rodmakers" Subject: RE: Dip Finish I move the rods from my dip tube to my drying cabinet and have never hadaproblem with dust. I use Poly and it does seem to "tack" over pretty quick.Sometimes I leave it in the tube for about 15 minutes. That seems to beenough for the surface to tack. Now when I used Spar varnish, that waslikea dust magnet. I had a real hard time with dust but not so with poly. I quitusing spar. Only poly now Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Dip Finish If you look at Wayne Cattanach's book it shows a finishing booth that alsoserves as a drying cabinet. I would think that moving the rod out of the dipstation into a drying cabinet would result in dust on the rod blank. WithWayne's method the rod stays right in the dip station and with the additonof an air filter the finish is dust free.Works for me!Dave Norling----- Original Message----- Subject: Re: Dip Finish Steve,I have a slab floor in my workshop, so the problem was the same asyours.I drilled through the floor with a borrowed impact drill. Expect a hugeamount of dust and noise, so use ear, nose, and eye protection and coveranystuff in the basement that you don't want coated in concrete dust. Iwoundup having to vacuum every square inch of my workshop, because once I gotthat impact drill going, I was so compulsive that I didn't stop until thathole was done!I located the hole in a corner of the shop so it was easy to build adust-tight cabinet to house the dipping assembly. The dia.of the hole wassufficient to allow a 10" piece of PVC to be installed in the hole. Thedepth will depend on the lifting space your ceiling will allow and thelength of sections you plan to dip. Mine has a 2' deep hole. I installedthePVC with about 2" above the slab and concreted around it and in thebottomof the hole to seal it off from the dirt.The cabinet encloses it all an goes up to the ceiling. Another cabinetis built next to the dipping cabinet to serve as the drying cabinet. Iwiredboth cabinets for electrical connections.Steve WeissI have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for that iswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from martinj@aa.net Sat Apr 1 11:07:22 2000 Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:07:18 -0800 Subject: RE: Varnish tube As far as the carpet I understand your concern. In order for me to controlthe dust, I got a couple long 3 or 4 inch diameter cardboard shipping tubes.The whole setup from the basement floor to the top is sealed inside thistube. The rod comes out the top section above the stairs from a crude doorIfashioned by cutting a 4 ft section about 1/3rd round and taping one sideback on for a hinge. My shop is directly behind the stairs. A plus for me. Ithink I have a couple of pics if your interested in seeing this. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Trauthwein Subject: Re: Varnish tube I like this idea except for two reasons. My stair is close to my furnace,probably nothing to worry about really. I have berber carpet on the stairandas this would have to be a removable top portion, I am not too sure howwellitwould patch when the tube was not in use. I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone for their input. Youdefinitely have me thinking. Quite an accomplishment in and of itself. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO Martin Jensen wrote: I can plug up a three inch hole in the stair case pretty easily. Now ifyouhave hardwood stairs that is another thing. Actually you could patch thatpretty easily also. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 6:16 PM Subject: Varnish tube I would give serious thought to a drip tube before drilling a holeanywhere.Ed from dickay@alltel.net Sat Apr 1 12:57:29 2000 MAA10957 Subject: BFR boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF9BD8.C0537780" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF9BD8.C0537780 George,I'm with you. I haven't yet received Issue #5/6. I've never received =Issue #1. I've contacted Mark about this and he promised to send them =to me post haste. That was in late January. Nothing yet. They have no =creditability with me.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF9BD8.C0537780 George, They have no creditability with me.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF9BD8.C0537780-- from Canerods@aol.com Sat Apr 1 13:10:48 2000 Subject: Re: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware In a message dated 4/1/00 8:31:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, mcdowellc@lanecc.edu writes: Chris, I've wondered about that too. They don't seem to rust, so it's not steel or plated steel. The color is about that of NS - so not pure chrome or tin. Isn't magnetic - so most likely not S.S or chrome. Doesn't seem to be a "pot" metal alloy - seems stamped, not molded. It doesn't "feel" like an AL part and since it isn't anodized when blackened. Heddon always painted them if they weren't left bright. So I'd rule out AL. Since some feet have two "ears" brazed/silver soldered to the inside of it, I'd guess they're pure heavy nickel-plating over brass or nickel alloy. Don Burns from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Apr 1 13:23:57 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware I thought the hardware was NS. Some of my Heddon reelseats have thatgreentarnish typical of NS. There are probably some low end Heddons that mighthave used a different material or also during war time something elsecouldhave been substituted... or perhaps chromed? What grade rod is the seatfrom? Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- MCDOWELL Subject: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware What is the reelseat hardware on the plastic downlocking "common"Heddonreelseat made from. It won't oxidize so I've ruled out nickel silver. Isit aluminum? I've painted them with black lacquer in the past, and that'sfine, but if it's aluminum I though I might try that aluminum blackingagentsold at gunshops, anyone tried that? The hardware patina has a slight green cast to it. Thanks for the help. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Apr 1 14:15:37 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 1 Apr 2000 14:16:25 -0600 Subject: Re: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF9BE5.10E19AE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF9BE5.10E19AE0 I'd guess at brass, either nickel or chrome plated. None of these are =magnetic, and the brass and nickel can produce the greenish caste. GMA Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 1:10 PMSubject: Re: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware mcdowellc@lanecc.edu writes: Chris, They don't seem to rust, so it's not steel or plated steel. The color = about that of NS - so not pure chrome or tin. Isn't magnetic - so most likely not S.S or chrome. Doesn't seem to be a "pot" metal alloy - seems stamped, not molded. It = doesn't "feel" like an AL part and since it isn't anodized when = Heddon always painted them if they weren't left bright. So I'd rule =out AL. Since some feet have two "ears" brazed/silver soldered to the inside = I'd guess they're pure heavy nickel-plating over brass or nickel =alloy. Don Burns ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF9BE5.10E19AE0 I'd guess at brass, either nickel or chrome plated. None of = caste. GMA ----- Original Message ----- = Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 = PM HardwareIn a message dated 4/1/00 8:31:36 AM Pacific Standard= = them with black lacquer in the past, and that's fine, but if it's = I though I might try that aluminum blacking agent sold at = seem to rust, so it's not steel or plated steel. The color is = of NS - so not pure chrome or tin.Isn't magnetic - so most = S.S or chrome.Doesn't seem to be a "pot" metal alloy - seems = not molded. It doesn't "feel" like an AL part and since it isn't = when blackened. Heddon always painted them if they weren't = brazed/silver soldered to the inside of it, I'd guess they're pure = Burns ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BF9BE5.10E19AE0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Apr 1 14:17:15 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 1 Apr 2000 14:18:09 -0600 Subject: Re: BFR boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003C_01BF9BE5.4EDA2B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BF9BE5.4EDA2B00 A very strange set of circumstances. Obviously his major problem in ="making it" is communication, and keeping his word ! GMA Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:49 PMSubject: BFR George,I'm with you. I haven't yet received Issue #5/6. I've never received =Issue #1. I've contacted Mark about this and he promised to send them =to me post haste. That was in late January. Nothing yet. They have no =creditability with me.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BF9BE5.4EDA2B00 A very strange set of circumstances. Obviously his major = "making it" is communication, and keeping his word ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Dick = Fuhrman Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 = PMSubject: BFR George, Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BF9BE5.4EDA2B00-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Apr 1 14:21:49 2000 0000 (204.186.33.98) Subject: Re: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware Canerods@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 4/1/00 8:31:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,mcdowellc@lanecc.edu writes: What is the reelseat hardware on the plastic downlocking "common"Heddonreelseat made from. It won't oxidize so I've ruled out nickel silver. Is italuminum? I've painted them with black lacquer in the past, and that'sfine,but if it's aluminum I though I might try that aluminum blacking agentsoldat gunshops, anyone tried that? The hardware patina has a slight green cast to it. Thanks for the help. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu >> Chris, I've wondered about that too. They don't seem to rust, so it's not steel or plated steel. The color isabout that of NS - so not pure chrome or tin. Isn't magnetic - so most likely not S.S or chrome. Doesn't seem to be a "pot" metal alloy - seems stamped, not molded. Itdoesn't "feel" like an AL part and since it isn't anodized when blackened. Heddon always painted them if they weren't left bright. So I'd rule outAL. Since some feet have two "ears" brazed/silver soldered to the inside ofit,I'd guess they're pure heavy nickel-plating over brass or nickel alloy. Don BurnsAll Heddon fly rods I have seen have been NS. Some bait rods have beenNPB. Have you polished the NS real well before blueing? I have triedAlum. Blk before without any luck. Marty from fiveside@net-gate.com Sat Apr 1 15:16:58 2000 SMTP id QAA05103 for ; Sat, 1 Apr 2000 Subject: Up- Down Revisited To the List,Turned inserts made of fancy woods are indeed beautiful, but againGarrison had it right. With few exceptions he used cork throughout. Overtime, cork inserts seem to give me complete reel locking security onlight-weight down-locking pocket and ring combos or just 2 rings. Evenwinebottle corks work well. Loose no reel before its time. Bill from bob@downandacross.com Sat Apr 1 15:50:21 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: opening day Finally got 7 on the Driggs today on opening day here afterbeing skunked on the open winter tribs. Stockers, but hey, that's okaywhen there's nothing hatching anyway. When I told my wife about the two year old browns they planted and howthe spin fishermen were whacking every one, she replied, "Whowantsto eat a two year old fish?" Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Sat Apr 1 17:13:26 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Pfleuger Medallist Can anyone on the list advise a suitable source to try for a PfleugerMedallist 1492 2 3/4" Fly reel?I understand these are a common reel in the States but they areimpossible to find here in the UK.Please contact me directly off line , many thanks.......Paul B from saltwein@swbell.net Sat Apr 1 17:57:13 2000 (Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with ESMTP id for Subject: Re: BFR boundary="------------02B4735183B71D3346289D37" --------------02B4735183B71D3346289D37 Has anyone noticed that there are a number of BFR items on sale on eBay, from someone in Orange County, hats and the like. I was curious if someinventory was being cleared out? Regards, Steve nobler wrote: A very strange set of circumstances. Obviously his major problem in"making it" is communication, and keeping his word ! GMA ----- Original Message -----From: Dick & Kathy Fuhrman Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:49 PMSubject: BFRGeorge,I'm with you. I haven't yet received Issue #5/6.I've never received Issue #1. I've contacted Mark aboutthis and he promised to send them to me post haste. Thatwas in late January. Nothing yet. They have nocreditability with me.Dick Fuhrman --------------02B4735183B71D3346289D37 Has anyone noticed that there are a number of BFR items on sale on eBay, some inventory was being cleared out?Regards, Stevenobler wrote: A very strange set of circumstances.Obviously his major problem in "making it" is communication, and keeping ----- Original Message ----- From:Dick &Kathy Fuhrman List Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:49PM Subject: BFR --------------02B4735183B71D3346289D37-- from bob@downandacross.com Sat Apr 1 18:02:48 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: the Book 1. I received my $50 copy of the Book today.http://www.wildadv.comThanks for the tip on this one. $50 shipped is a greatdeal. I can now retire my pages photocopied from the public librarycopy. 2. The new Tom Morgan Rodsmiths site is now up. It looks fantastic.http://www.troutrods.comGreat info on the Hand Mill. Nice pics also. No commercial interest. Just good people. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from sniderja@email.uc.edu Sat Apr 1 18:28:25 2000 Subject: Re: Up- Down Revisited I much prefer cork reel seats. However, over time, everyone of them hasfailed on me at some point. Compression, then steam, compress thensteam torenew. Eventually, however, on a heavy used rod it has been my experiencethat they eventually fail. Perhaps I am just too hard on rods?J. Snider At 04:14 PM 04/01/2000 -0500, Bill Fink wrote:To the List,Turned inserts made of fancy woods are indeed beautiful, but againGarrison had it right. With few exceptions he used cork throughout. Overtime, cork inserts seem to give me complete reel locking security onlight-weight down-locking pocket and ring combos or just 2 rings. Evenwinebottle corks work well. Loose no reel before its time. Bill from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Apr 1 19:18:28 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 1 Apr 2000 19:19:21 -0600 Subject: Re: BFR boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF9C0F.62D916A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF9C0F.62D916A0 I haven't looked much lately, but it doesn't surprise me. GMA Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 7:58 PMSubject: Re: BFR Has anyone noticed that there are a number of BFR items on sale on =eBay, from someone in Orange County, hats and the like. I was curious = A very strange set of circumstances. Obviously his major problem in = ----- Original Message -----From: Dick & Kathy Fuhrman Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:49 PMSubject: BFRGeorge,I'm with you. I haven't yet received Issue #5/6. I've =never received Issue #1. I've contacted Mark about this and he promised =to send them to me post haste. That was in late January. Nothing yet. = ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF9C0F.62D916A0 me. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Trauthwein Cc: Rodmakers List Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: BFRHas anyone noticed that there are a number of BFR items= A very strange set of circumstances. Obviously his major problem = "making it" is communication, and keeping his word = ----- Original Message ----- Kathy Fuhrman Sent: Saturday, April 01, = PMSubject: = ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF9C0F.62D916A0-- from martinj@aa.net Sat Apr 1 19:33:25 2000 Sat, 1 Apr 2000 17:33:10 -0800 Subject: RE: Up- Down Revisited I would agree (except I don't prefer cork). I have worn out 2 cork reelseats and not one wood insert in my years fly fishing.Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Up- Down Revisited I much prefer cork reel seats. However, over time, everyone of them hasfailed on me at some point. Compression, then steam, compress thensteam torenew. Eventually, however, on a heavy used rod it has been my experiencethat they eventually fail. Perhaps I am just too hard on rods?J. Snider At 04:14 PM 04/01/2000 -0500, Bill Fink wrote:To the List,Turned inserts made of fancy woods are indeed beautiful, but againGarrison had it right. With few exceptions he used cork throughout. Overtime, cork inserts seem to give me complete reel locking security onlight-weight down-locking pocket and ring combos or just 2 rings. Evenwinebottle corks work well. Loose no reel before its time. Bill from bob@downandacross.com Sat Apr 1 19:34:27 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: BFR Saw the hats and stuff. The funny thing I saw on eBay today was a listing Otherwise excellent." Some insane people there.Bob Has anyone noticedthat there are a number of BFR items on sale on eBay, from someone in was being cleared out? Regards, Steve Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Apr 1 19:35:45 2000 0400 Subject: Re: Hardener for Urac 185 Does anyone know of a Canadian supplier for Ammonium Chloride? Inoticed onthe WHIMIS data sheet that it also comes in a liquid form. Would that bebetter? Shawn Shawn Pineo wrote: I have been experimenting with Urac mixtures and searching thearchives for a little while now and was curious about the substitutionof ammonium chloride for hardener. First of all some people said it wasammonium chloride and some said ammonium carbonate (the stuff usedforbrown toning cane). I believe it is the chloride?The directions are not really clear. Do you mix the ACpowder/water combo into the resin or into the resin with walnut shellhardener already added?What are the mixture ratios? What makes this better than thestandard mix?It is thinner and doesn't have the gap filling properties. The onlybenefit I see is that it has a longer pot life. Why the heat drying withthis one as opposed to normal urac/hardener?Shawn from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat Apr 1 19:42:25 2000 17:51:32 PST Subject: RE: Heddon Reel Seat Hardware Thanks to all for the advice. To answer a few questions it's an early #17. Has the spiral "Heddon" acrossthe bottom flats with "#17" just above the hookkeeper on the bottom flat.No specs. are written on the rod. Ithink it is a transition rod around 1938. The reelseat is not the wood onefound on the earliest Heddons yetthe "#17" alone is an early period mark. It's original, but was in rough shape. I've refinished it for the son of theoriginal owner who bought it newat some unknown date and passed away in 1957. The rod has not beenfished since, but now will get to gofishing again in the future. These circumstances and potential make thewhole project more then worthwhile. I did not polish out the hardware prior to applying an oxidizing agent, butsince the components are worn backto primarily silver with only traces of the black coloring I assume if itwas nickel silver it would havedarkened some even if unevenly and it didn't. That's why I assumed someother material. The ferrules arenickel silver of course and the stripper guide darkened when the oxidizerwas applied. Well, thanks again for the advice. I'll forgo the aluminum blacking agentand lacquer the parts. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sat Apr 1 20:25:20 2000 Subject: Re: One Fly Ernie,Is that fly related to the xxxxHercules or the telephone crank bomber?Hank. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sat Apr 1 20:25:39 2000 Subject: Re: Locks, Up and Down Bill,Amen to downlocking.Hank. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sat Apr 1 20:26:22 2000 Subject: Re: RE: Locks, Up and Down Martin,As I must use my little finger of my good hand to hold both rod and line the line often ends up around the butt when it is shot. The uplocking seat tends to cause that more often, hence my preference for downlocking reel seats.Regards,Hank. from tomrichard@email.msn.com Sat Apr 1 20:55:22 2000 SMTPSVC;Sat, 1 Apr 2000 18:54:48 -0800 Subject: MEMBER ID HELP! I HAVE SET UP A NEW ACCOUNT WITH MICRO SOFT ANDDID NOT UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD ACCOUNT BEFORE IT WASCANCELED. NOW I CAN'T SEEM TO SUBSCRIBE FOR THE NEW ACCOUNT.I HAVE TRIED TWICE AND STILL DO NOT GET ANY MAIL. HOW DO I UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD USER NAME SO THAT ICAN SUBSCRIBE UNDER THE NEW NAME? TOM PETERS from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat Apr 1 22:04:22 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 1 Apr 2000 23:03:37 Subject: Ferrule dimensions Would anyone know where I could find out the machining dimensions offerrules (ie, length of slide, total length of male and female parts, etc).I'd like to attempt to make them. Thanks in advance, Richard from lars32@gateway.net Sat Apr 1 22:38:21 2000 Subject: Re: Up- Down Revisited On an uplock reel seat the weight of the reel tends to tighten ring-----Original Message----- ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Up- Down Revisited I would agree (except I don't prefer cork). I have worn out 2 cork reelseats and not one wood insert in my years fly fishing.Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 4:32 PM Subject: Re: Up- Down Revisited I much prefer cork reel seats. However, over time, everyone of them hasfailed on me at some point. Compression, then steam, compress thensteam torenew. Eventually, however, on a heavy used rod it has been myexperiencethat they eventually fail. Perhaps I am just too hard on rods?J. Snider At 04:14 PM 04/01/2000 -0500, Bill Fink wrote:To the List,Turned inserts made of fancy woods are indeed beautiful, but againGarrison had it right. With few exceptions he used cork throughout. Overtime, cork inserts seem to give me complete reel locking security onlight-weight down-locking pocket and ring combos or just 2 rings. Evenwinebottle corks work well. Loose no reel before its time. Bill from martinj@aa.net Sat Apr 1 23:14:15 2000 Sat, 1 Apr 2000 21:14:09 -0800 Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down No kidding! Never had that problem. Only with the hook keeper. I built acouple of rods without them for that reason but I really like the use of oneso they are back on the rod. As I said before though, I am going to work onmaking down locking seats now that I have the material (plus a lathe!) Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- FISHWOOL@aol.com Subject: RE: Locks, Up and Down Martin,As I must use my little finger of my good hand to hold both rod and linethe line often ends up around the butt when it is shot. The uplocking seattends to cause that more often, hence my preference for downlocking reelseats.Regards,Hank. from martinj@aa.net Sat Apr 1 23:18:07 2000 Sat, 1 Apr 2000 21:18:04 -0800 Subject: RE: MEMBER ID I had that same problem. I was fortunate enough to still have my oldaccountactive. I re-configured my computer to connect with the old ISP and loggedon and unsubscribed. If this is not an option you may have to contact MikeBiondo. I believe he keeps up the list. check out the rodmakers website andsee.http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: MEMBER ID HELP! I HAVE SET UP A NEW ACCOUNT WITH MICRO SOFT ANDDID NOT UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD ACCOUNT BEFORE IT WASCANCELED. NOW I CAN'T SEEM TO SUBSCRIBE FOR THE NEW ACCOUNT.I HAVE TRIED TWICE AND STILL DO NOT GET ANY MAIL. HOW DO I UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD USER NAME SO THAT ICAN SUBSCRIBE UNDER THE NEW NAME? TOM PETERS from saweiss@flash.net Sat Apr 1 23:39:15 2000 Subject: Re: Dip Finish Right Dave, I have several hooks in my dip tank booth and I leave thesections in there for a couple of hours to tack off, then shift them to thedrying cabinet for longer-term drying. I also have an air filter in the diptank booth.Steve If you look at Wayne Cattanach's book it shows a finishing booth thatalsoserves as a drying cabinet. I would think that moving the rod out of thedipstation into a drying cabinet would result in dust on the rod blank. WithWayne's method the rod stays right in the dip station and with theadditonof an air filter the finish is dust free.Works for me!Dave Norling--- --Original Message-----From: Steven Weiss Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 1:35 PMSubject: Re: Dip Finish from teekay35@interlynx.net Sun Apr 2 00:15:47 2000 Subject: Re: Hardener for Urac 185 Shawn, you can buy ammonium chloride at the drug store. They probablywon't have it in stock but can get it for you in a few days. Cost of a 100gram bottle is about $10 here in ontario. ----------From: Shawn Pineo Subject: Re: Hardener for Urac 185Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 8:31 PM Does anyone know of a Canadian supplier for Ammonium Chloride? Inoticedonthe WHIMIS data sheet that it also comes in a liquid form. Would that bebetter? Shawn Shawn Pineo wrote: I have been experimenting with Urac mixtures and searching thearchives for a little while now and was curious about the substitutionof ammonium chloride for hardener. First of all some people said itwasammonium chloride and some said ammonium carbonate (the stuff usedforbrown toning cane). I believe it is the chloride?The directions are not really clear. Do you mix the ACpowder/water combo into the resin or into the resin with walnut shellhardener already added?What are the mixture ratios? What makes this better than thestandard mix?It is thinner and doesn't have the gap filling properties. The onlybenefit I see is that it has a longer pot life. Why the heat dryingwiththis one as opposed to normal urac/hardener?Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Apr 2 06:21:34 2000 Subject: Rattan grips Does anyone out there know about making rattan grips? I am looking Shawn from mep@mint.net Sun Apr 2 06:59:06 2000 Subject: Re: One Fly boundary="------------CAA5DD60DF268FFB879C3039" --------------CAA5DD60DF268FFB879C3039 Depends on what you mean by spring April and first week or so of May, a grey ghost. After that a lightbrown parachute #10 or 12. Mike Ray Gould wrote: Ok. Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - ifyou were limited to one single fly pattern for your spring troutfishing what would it be?Ray --------------CAA5DD60DF268FFB879C3039 Depends on what you mean by springApril and first week or so of May, a grey ghost. After that a lightbrown parachute #10 or 12.MikeRay Gould wrote: Ok.Winter is over. The rods are made. Now here's the question - if you werelimited to one single fly pattern for your spring trout fishing what wouldit be?Ray --------------CAA5DD60DF268FFB879C3039-- from brookie@frii.com Sun Apr 2 08:01:34 2000 Subject: Bamboo FlyRod Mag What *I* wonder is why there aren't some entrepeneurs out theresomewherethat are willing to either take over the mag, and/or start another one ... from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Apr 2 08:29:25 2000 Subject: What a gorgeous day! I was outside just now working on a rod and my wife is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really great day hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard and thought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!" Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envy those of you whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I can retire from themilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx the weather if I drug the computer outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop?I hope that it is at least as nice in your area today! And thanks toall for their input lately.Shawn from jfreeman@cyberport.com Sun Apr 2 09:28:10 2000 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Dip Finish All, I've got to agree - the set-up ah la Wayne works great. I hang right in thetube. I use a piece of sheepwool to wipe down the PVC to set up a staticcharge, and I've had very, very little trouble with dust motes - maybe oneor two small specks per section. I'm sold, but the drawback is expense.PVCthat size is not cheap! By the way, I work in a room with 15' ceilings, andthe whole assemble is above ground. Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Dip Finish If you look at Wayne Cattanach's book it shows a finishing booth thatalsoserves as a drying cabinet. I would think that moving the rod out of thedipstation into a drying cabinet would result in dust on the rod blank. WithWayne's method the rod stays right in the dip station and with theadditonof an air filter the finish is dust free.Works for me!Dave Norling--- --Original Message-----From: Steven Weiss Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 1:35 PMSubject: Re: Dip Finish Steve,I have a slab floor in my workshop, so the problem was the same asyours.I drilled through the floor with a borrowed impact drill. Expect ahugeamount of dust and noise, so use ear, nose, and eye protection and coveranystuff in the basement that you don't want coated in concrete dust. Iwoundup having to vacuum every square inch of my workshop, because once Igotthat impact drill going, I was so compulsive that I didn't stop untilthathole was done!I located the hole in a corner of the shop so it was easy to build adust-tight cabinet to house the dipping assembly. The dia.of the holewassufficient to allow a 10" piece of PVC to be installed in the hole. Thedepth will depend on the lifting space your ceiling will allow and thelength of sections you plan to dip. Mine has a 2' deep hole. I installedthePVC with about 2" above the slab and concreted around it and in thebottomof the hole to seal it off from the dirt.The cabinet encloses it all an goes up to the ceiling. Anothercabinetis built next to the dipping cabinet to serve as the drying cabinet. Iwiredboth cabinets for electrical connections.Steve WeissI have been playing around with different means of applying poly. Thebest results to date have been with the latex stretched over acontainer. This still leaves something to be desired with my efforts. I am going to go for a dip tank and the only way I have room for thatiswith a hole in the basement floor. My question is, for those of you whohave gone this way, how big (or preferably small) of a hole did youneed? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Apr 2 09:36:54 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 2 Apr 2000 09:37:46 -0500 Subject: Re: MEMBER ID boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9C87.4C6D1B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9C87.4C6D1B00 I just unsubscribed from the old ISP address, and subscribed with the =new address I have when going to cable service. GMA Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 12:16 AMSubject: RE: MEMBER ID I had that same problem. I was fortunate enough to still have my old =accountactive. I re-configured my computer to connect with the old ISP and =loggedon and unsubscribed. If this is not an option you may have to contact =MikeBiondo. I believe he keeps up the list. check out the rodmakers =website andsee.http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/ Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 6:49 PM Subject: MEMBER ID HELP! I HAVE SET UP A NEW ACCOUNT WITH MICRO SOFT ANDDID NOT UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD ACCOUNT BEFORE IT WASCANCELED. NOW I CAN'T SEEM TO SUBSCRIBE FOR THE NEW ACCOUNT.I HAVE TRIED TWICE AND STILL DO NOT GET ANY MAIL. HOW DO I UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD USER NAME SO THAT ICAN SUBSCRIBE UNDER THE NEW NAME? TOM PETERS ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9C87.4C6D1B00 I just unsubscribed from the old ISP address, and = the new address I have when going to cable service. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Martin =Jensen rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 = AMSubject: RE: MEMBER IDI had that same problem. I was fortunate enough to = my old accountactive. I re-configured my computer to connect with = ISP and loggedon and unsubscribed. If this is not an option you = to contact MikeBiondo. I believe he keeps up the list. check out = rodmakers website andsee.http://www.canerod.com/rodmake= Jensen-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= MEMBER IDHELP!I HAVE SET UP A NEW ACCOUNTWITH = WASCANCELED.NOW I CAN'T SEEM TO SUBSCRIBE FOR THE ACCOUNT.I HAVE TRIED TWICE AND STILL DO NOT GET ANY = UNSUBSCRIBE THE OLD USER NAME SO THAT ICAN SUBSCRIBE UNDERTHE NEW = NAME?TOM PETERS ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9C87.4C6D1B00-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Apr 2 09:45:07 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 2 Apr 2000 09:46:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Rattan grips boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF9C88.736D6E20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF9C88.736D6E20 As far as durability is concerned, I have what I think is a very old =Daniels, that has a rattan type grip. It's some sort of white material, =that has a camfor odor, when cleaned with Citristrip paint stripper, so =it may not be real rattan. I would think that the methods used in =wrapping rattan chairs, would apply here. This material is available in =many diameters, even in craft stores, along with instruction books on =doing rattan. At any rate, I have a couple in real rattan, that have not cracked or =come loose. GMA Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 5:17 AMSubject: Rattan grips Does anyone out there know about making rattan grips? I am =looking Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF9C88.736D6E20 As far as durability is concerned, I have what I think is a = old Daniels, that has a rattan type grip. It's some sort of white = not be real rattan. I would think that the methods used in wrapping = chairs, would apply here. This material is available in many diameters, = craft stores, along with instruction books on doing =rattan. At any rate, I have a couple in real rattan, that have not = or come loose. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo = Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 = AMSubject: Rattan grips = Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF9C88.736D6E20-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Apr 2 09:50:54 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 2 Apr 2000 09:51:48 -0500 Subject: Re: What a gorgeous day! boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003F_01BF9C89.425543C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01BF9C89.425543C0 I would caution anyone against trying to make a living at their chosen =hobby ! Those who make it today, in this "discount house world", have a =worse success rate than the restaurant business ! This is at a rate of =80% failure ! The worst thing though, is you have no time to do what you love the =most, as far as spare time activity is concerned ! GMA Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25 AMSubject: What a gorgeous day! I was outside just now working on a rod and my wife is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really great day hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard and thought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!" Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envy those of you =whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I can retire from themilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx the weather if I drug the computer =outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop?I hope that it is at least as nice in your area today! And thanks =toall for their input lately.Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01BF9C89.425543C0 I would caution anyone against trying to make a living at = chosen hobby ! Those who make it today, in this "discount house world", = worse success rate than the restaurant business ! This is at a rate of = failure ! The worst thing though, is you have no time to do what you= most, as far as spare time activity is concerned ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo = Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 = AMSubject: What a gorgeous =day! wife is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is = great day hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the = thought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!" = Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envy = you whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I can = Shawn ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01BF9C89.425543C0-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Apr 2 10:05:35 2000 0000 (204.186.33.169) Subject: Re: What a gorgeous day! I would caution anyone against trying to make a living at their chosenhobby ! Those who make it today, in this "discount house world", havea worse success rate than the restaurant business ! This is at a rateof 80% failure ! The worst thing though, is you have no time to do what you love themost, as far as spare time activity is concerned ! GMA ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25 AMSubject: What a gorgeous day! I was outside just now working on a rod and my wife is atwork so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really greatday hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard andthought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!"Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envythose of you whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I canretire from themilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx the weather if I drug thecomputer outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop?I hope that it is at least as nice in your area today!And thanks toall for their input lately.ShawnYou can make a living at this if you can turn a rod out from culm tofinish in 10 hours. If it takes 40 hours(of course taking in accountLabor, Material, Overhead , Ins. etc.) you might as well work atMcDonalds. It's best not to turn something you love to do into a JOB.Marty from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Apr 2 10:30:37 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 2 Apr 2000 10:31:21 -0500 Subject: Re: What a gorgeous day! boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005C_01BF9C8E.C9250980" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01BF9C8E.C9250980 I speak from hard "learned" experience ! The good thing is I'm turning =back to fishing and rod building, for pure fun, and not to earn money ! GMA Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 10:03 AMSubject: Re: What a gorgeous day! I would caution anyone against trying to make a living at their =chosenhobby ! Those who make it today, in this "discount house world", =havea worse success rate than the restaurant business ! This is at a =rateof 80% failure ! The worst thing though, is you have no time to do what you love themost, as far as spare time activity is concerned ! GMA ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25 AMSubject: What a gorgeous day! I was outside just now working on a rod and my wife is atwork so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really greatday hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard andthought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!"Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envythose of you whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I canretire from themilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx the weather if I drug thecomputer outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop?I hope that it is at least as nice in your area today!And thanks toall for their input lately.ShawnYou can make a living at this if you can turn a rod out from culm tofinish in 10 hours. If it takes 40 hours(of course taking in accountLabor, Material, Overhead , Ins. etc.) you might as well work atMcDonalds. It's best not to turn something you love to do into a JOB.Marty ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01BF9C8E.C9250980 I speak from hard "learned" experience ! The good thing is = turning back to fishing and rod building, for pure fun, and not to earn = ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- marty = = Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 = AMSubject: Re: What a gorgeous =day! worst thing though, is you have no time to do what you love = Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25 = outside = now working on a rod and my wife is = = I = in a = = ShawnYou can make a living at this if you can turn a rod out from = accountLabor, Material, Overhead , Ins. etc.) you might as well = atMcDonalds. It's best not to turn something you love to do into a = JOB.Marty ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01BF9C8E.C9250980-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Apr 2 10:49:51 2000 0300 Subject: Re: What a gorgeous day! Well the rod building will not be the main source, just a side specialty.I do agree about mixing hobbies and work though, I used to take outcharterswhen I lived in Alberta and after a couple of weeks of 18 hour days evenfishing can get a little tedious at times!Shawn Shawn Pineo wrote: I was outside just now working on a rod and my wife is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really great day hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard and thought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!" Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envy those of you whocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I can retire from themilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx the weather if I drug the computer outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop?I hope that it is at least as nice in your area today! And thanks toall for their input lately.Shawn from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Apr 2 11:25:20 2000 Subject: Re: What a gorgeous day! boundary="------------15692CB9AF4EAE0EC52FAC39" --------------15692CB9AF4EAE0EC52FAC39 Tell me about it. I started tying a few flies fora resort and in three years it almost became afull time job. Lost a lot of time on the river.This season I just said NO. Need to do some morebending of that Sir D with a smallmouth doing thebending.This morning it is raining, a good day to get somerodmaking done. Split a culm last night and amstraightening and flattening the nodes today. Thiswill be a Granger Taper.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com nobler wrote: I would caution anyone against trying to make aliving at their chosen hobby ! Those who make ittoday, in this "discount house world", have aworse success rate than the restaurant business! This is at a rate of 80% failure ! The worstthing though, is you have no time to do what youlove the most, as far as spare time activity isconcerned ! GMA ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25 AMSubject: What a gorgeous day!I was outside just now working ona rod and my wife is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out withme. It is a really great day hereand as I worked I watched my kidsplaying in the yard and thought tomyself "this is what life should belike all the time!!" Although Irealize that it's not always thatsweet for you, I envy those of you who can do this full time! I can't waittill the day I can retire from themilitary, open a tackle store andbuild rods full time.I wonder if I would jinx theweather if I drug the computer outside too! ;^) Maybe I should invest in alaptop?I hope that it is at least as nicein your area today! And thanks toall for their input lately.Shawn --------------15692CB9AF4EAE0EC52FAC39 Tell me about it. I started tying a few flies for a resort and in threeyears it almost became a full time job. Lost a lot of time on the river.This season I just said NO. Need to do some more bending of that Sir Dwith a smallmouth doing the bending.This morning it is raining, a good day to get some rodmaking done.Split a culm last night and am straightening and flattening the nodestoday.This will be a Granger Taper. nobler wrote: I would caution anyone againsttrying to make a living at their chosen hobby ! Those who make it today,in this "discount house world", have a worse success rate than therestaurant though, is you have no time to do what you love the most, as far as spare ----- Original Message ----- From:ShawnPineo Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 7:25AM Subject: What a gorgeous day! is at work so Ihad my two young daughters out with me. It is a really great day hereand as I worked I watched my kids playing in the yard and thought tomyself "this is what life should be like all the time!!" Although Irealize that it's not always that sweet for you, I envy those of youwhocan do this full time! I can't wait till the day I can retire fromthemilitary, open a tackle store and build rods full time. computer outsidetoo! ;^) Maybe I should invest in a laptop? today! And thanks toall for their input lately. Shawn --------------15692CB9AF4EAE0EC52FAC39-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Apr 2 13:43:24 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: lost someones e-mail If anyone has the e-mail for listmember Fred Bohls, could yousend to me via private e-mail. Thanks. Fred if you are out there get a hold of me.Thanks,Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from paul.blakley@dtn.ntl.com Sun Apr 2 14:17:33 2000 helo=dtn.ntl.com) Subject: Pfleuger Medallist To everyone who contacted me 'off the list ' on this subject .....thankyou.....I will be in direct contact with those of interest.....Paul B from saunder@worldnet.att.net Sun Apr 2 15:46:52 2000Received: frommtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net (mtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP Subject: old rod I PICKED UP AN OLD ROD WITH A JC HIGGINS LOGO ON IT, I FIRST THOUGHTIT WASBAMBOO AS IT LOOKS VERY MUCH LIKE ONE, IT APPEARED TO BE A TWOPIECE 4/5WTAND THE TIP WAS PULLED from THE FORWARD PART OF THE FERREL, UPON CLOSEREXAMINATI0N THEFERRELSEEMS TO BE ONE PIECE AND THE ROD MADE OF SOLID WOOD OR AT LEAST ICAN SEENO SEEMS AT ALL. ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY KNOWLEDGE OF SUCH AFISHING ROD IEIS THEFERREL JUST AN IMATION, AND THE ROD MENT TO BE A ONE PIECE. ANDWHAT KINDOF WOOD WOULD BE USED TO GIVE SUCH A GOOD REPLICATION OF BAMBOO. IT WILLHOWEVERMAKE A GOOD DECORATION FOR MY DEN. HUTCH from rmoon@ida.net Sun Apr 2 15:51:19 2000 0000 Subject: Nodeless boundary="------------D1B7FBC264C5470805D8EF86" --------------D1B7FBC264C5470805D8EF86 I remember reading when I first got Garrison and Carmichael's bookthat Mr. Garrison had made a rod in which he had cut out the nodes andspliced the pieces together. The way Mr. Carmichael described the eventI gained the impression that Garrison was the first to use thistechnique. Then when very soon after a couple of friends showed metheir nodeless rods I was impressed. Today I would venture to guessthat there are almost as many builders using nodeless technique as not.Everyone knows that Samuel Phillipe is given credit for making thefirst 6 strip cane rod, although there is still some dispute overthis. Nevertheless there is ample evidence that there were English rodmakers predating Samuel Phillipe making at least sections of rent andglued bamboo rods. I was reading just the other day James Henschall'sBook of the Black Bass published in 1881. Therein I was amazed to findthis brief quoted passage. "Rods formed of several pieces of wood, thatis from two to four longitudinal mitred (sic) and glued together, weremade in England many years ago; and Aldred of London, made rod tips, oras they are called in England, "tops," of split bamboo long before thesplit bamboo rod proper was made in this country. Aldred's tops,however, were necessarily a failure, from the faulty method of theirconstruction. He made them of many short pieces, sawn from between theknots or leaf-ridges, of the male cane, and spliced to form continuouslengths. So much for the original idea." I have no idea why nodeless was a faulty technique, but the conceptpredates even the six strip construction cane rod.Ralph --------------D1B7FBC264C5470805D8EF86 book that Mr. Garrison had made a rod in which he had cut out the nodes the event I gained the impression that Garrison was the first to use this showed guess that there are almost as many builders using nodeless technique asnot. credit were English rod makers predating Samuel Phillipe making at leastsections James formedof several pieces of wood, that is from two to four longitudinal mitred(sic) and glued together, were made in England many years ago; and Aldredof London, made rod tips, or as they are called in England, "tops," ofsplit bamboo long before the split bamboo rod proper was made in this Aldred's tops, however, were necessarily a failure, from the faulty sawn from between the knots or leaf-ridges, of the male cane, and spliced I have no idea why nodeless was a faulty technique, but the conceptpredates even the six strip construction cane rod.Ralph --------------D1B7FBC264C5470805D8EF86-- from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Apr 2 17:23:42 2000 Sun, 2 Apr 2000 17:28:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Nodeless boundary="------------371B03E4A3786DF3156C56D2" --------------371B03E4A3786DF3156C56D2 I have a friend in N.J. that picked up a SamuelPhillipe rod at a yard sale. The women said, youcan have that old thing for 1.00 . This was abouteight years ago. Goes to show there are stillbargains to be found. He has turned down severalgood offers for it.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ralph W Moon wrote: Everyone knows that Samuel Phillipe is givencredit for making the first 6 strip cane rod,although there is still some dispute over this.Nevertheless there is ample evidence that therewere English rod makers predating SamuelPhillipe making at least sections of rent andglued bamboo rods. I was reading just the otherday James Henschall's Book of the Black Basspublished in of --------------371B03E4A3786DF3156C56D2 I have a friend in N.J. that picked up a Samuel Phillipe rod at a yardsale. The women said, you can have that old thing for 1.00 . This was abouteight years ago. Goes to show there are still bargains to be found. Hehas turned down several good offers for it. Ralph W Moon wrote: credit were English rod makers predating Samuel Phillipe making at leastsections James of --------------371B03E4A3786DF3156C56D2-- from martinj@aa.net Sun Apr 2 19:12:43 2000 Sun, 2 Apr 2000 17:12:33 -0700 Subject: RE: Nodeless boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF9CC6.72DA25A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF9CC6.72DA25A0 It may have been as simple as the quality of the glue at the time. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 12:43 AM Subject: Nodeless [Martin Jensen] ..... I have no idea why nodeless was a faulty technique,but the concept predates even the six strip construction cane rod.Ralph ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF9CC6.72DA25A0 have been as simple as the quality of the glue at the =time. Jensen technique, but the concept predates even the six strip construction = Ralph ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF9CC6.72DA25A0-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Apr 2 19:42:48 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Nodeless boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF9CCA.838F59C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF9CCA.838F59C0 New Ideas are few and far between, apparently... Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 12:43 AM Subject: Nodeless I remember reading when I first got Garrison and Carmichael's book thatMr. Garrison had made a rod in which he had cut out the nodes and splicedthe pieces together. The way Mr. Carmichael described the event I gainedthe impression that Garrison was the first to use this technique. Thenwhenvery soon after a couple of friends showed me their nodeless rods I wasimpressed. Today I would venture to guess that there are almost as manybuilders using nodeless technique as not.Everyone knows that Samuel Phillipe is given credit for making thefirst 6 strip cane rod, although there is still some dispute over this.Nevertheless there is ample evidence that there were English rod makerspredating Samuel Phillipe making at least sections of rent and gluedbamboorods. I was reading just the other day James Henschall's Book of the BlackBass published in 1881. Therein I was amazed to find this brief quotedpassage. "Rods formed of several pieces of wood, that is from two to fourlongitudinal mitred (sic) and glued together, were made in England manyyears ago; and Aldred of London, made rod tips, or as they are called inEngland, "tops," of split bamboo long before the split bamboo rod properwasmade in this country. Aldred's tops, however, were necessarily a failure, from the faulty method of their construction. He made them of many shortpieces, sawn from between the knots or leaf-ridges, of the male cane, andspliced to form continuous lengths. So much for the original idea."I have no idea why nodeless was a faulty technique, but the conceptpredates even the six strip construction cane rod.Ralph ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF9CCA.838F59C0 Darrell rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: = that Mr. Garrison had made a rod in which he had cut out the nodes and = the impression that Garrison was the first to use this = when very soon after a couple of friends showed me their = knows that Samuel Phillipe is given credit for making the first 6 = there is ample evidence that there were English rod makers predating = reading just the other day James Henschall's Book of the = to four longitudinal mitred (sic) and glued together, were made in = many years ago; and Aldred of London, made rod tips, or as they are = England, "tops," of split bamboo long before the split bamboo rod = many short pieces, sawn from between the knots or leaf-ridges, of the = I have no idea why nodeless was a faulty technique, but the concept = ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF9CCA.838F59C0-- from Zeneca@netzero.net Sun Apr 2 22:10:21 2000 w98sysrec) (4.54.15.93) Subject: Winding a rod... Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods after gluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that works well, or a web address where I might order a moderately priced unit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Apr 2 22:15:37 2000 Mon, 3 Apr 2000 11:14:36 +0800 Subject: RE: Nodeless types="text/plain,text/html";boundary="=====================_1054593==_.ALT" --=====================_1054593==_.ALT I think you might be right Martin,If the glue is not up to the task you'll have 100% failure. Tony At 05:11 PM 4/2/00 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote: It may have been as simple as the quality of the glue at the time. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 12:43 AM Subject: Nodeless [Martin Jensen] ..... I have no idea why nodeless was a faultytechnique, butthe concept predates even the six strip construction cane rod. Ralph /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1054593==_.ALT I think you might be right Martin,If the glue is not up to the task you'll have 100% failure. Tony At 05:11 PM 4/2/00 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote: Itmay have been as simple as the quality of the glue at thetime. MartinJensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu[ Behalf Of Ralph W MoonSent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 12:43 AM Subject: Nodeless [Martin Jensen] ..... I have no the six strip construction cane rod. Ralph /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. /*************************************************************************/ --=====================_1054593==_.ALT-- from Zeneca@earthling.net Sun Apr 2 22:21:31 2000 w98sysrec) (4.54.15.93) Subject: Change in E-mail Also, there has been a change to my email..... I am no longer using Zeneca@netzero.net. Please ignore that and use Zeneca@earthling.net ment to change that before I posted... Jason_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from irish-george@pacbell.net Mon Apr 3 00:06:32 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Bamboo FlyRod Mag It really isn't all that common to sell a business (except large, publiclytraded corporations). Usually, there is just a sale of the assets involved(no one wants to take on someone else's liabilities). Regarding assets,probably everything (printing, distribution, etc.) is contracted out. Thatjust leaves goodwill. George -----Original Message----- Subject: Bamboo FlyRod Mag What *I* wonder is why there aren't some entrepeneurs out theresomewherethat are willing to either take over the mag, and/or start another one ... from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Apr 3 07:02:02 2000 Mon, 3 Apr 2000 09:01:29 -0300 Subject: Re: Winding a rod... Jason,How about a free one? Or close to free? It works just fine.Here's the link.http://www.Shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com Shawn Zeneca@netzero.net wrote: Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods aftergluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that workswell, or a web address where I might order a moderately pricedunit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Apr 3 07:06:41 2000 Mon, 3 Apr 2000 09:06:08 -0300 Subject: Re: Change in E-mail Jason,how does a free binder sound? Well its close to free dependinghow much stuff you have around. Here's the link,Shawnhttp://www.Shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com Zeneca@earthling.net wrote: Also, there has been a change to my email..... I am no longerusing Zeneca@netzero.net. Please ignore that and use Zeneca@earthling.net ment to change that before I posted... Jason_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from sniderja@email.uc.edu Mon Apr 3 07:34:36 2000 Subject: Re: Winding a rod... Jason, don't be afraid to bind your first couple of rods by hand. It works,and some folks still prefer this method.Also, you might want to check out Tom Smithwick's amazing little binder.Simplicity in itself, cheap as heck and, more importantly, it works! Ibelieve that I built mine for ca. $20.J. Snider At 11:10 PM 04/02/2000 -0400, Zeneca@netzero.net wrote:Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods after gluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that works well, or a web address where I might order a moderately priced unit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Apr 3 07:46:29 2000 Mon, 3 Apr 2000 09:45:54 -0300 Subject: Re: Winding a rod... That's right Jerry,I almost forgot about Tom's binder! It is a very neatlittle rig. I have some pictures if you interested Jason, Tom wouldprobablyhave better ones or maybe even blueprints.Shawn Jerry Snider wrote: Jason, don't be afraid to bind your first couple of rods by hand. It works,and some folks still prefer this method.Also, you might want to check out Tom Smithwick's amazing littlebinder.Simplicity in itself, cheap as heck and, more importantly, it works! Ibelieve that I built mine for ca. $20.J. Snider At 11:10 PM 04/02/2000 -0400, Zeneca@netzero.net wrote:Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods aftergluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that workswell, or a web address where I might order a moderately pricedunit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Apr 3 09:27:36 2000 (5.0.1459.74) Subject: RE: the Book Got mine Saturday also. Nice boxed setup. Were prior versions donethis way? I'm not sure if the box is gonna be useful over the long run,depends on whether one uses the book as a bench reference or as alibrary item.----- Original Message-----From: bob maulucci [SMTP:bob@downandacross.com]Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 5:00 PM Subject: the Book 1. I received my $50 copy of the Book today.://www.wildadv. comThanks for the tip on this one. $50 shippedis a great deal. I can now retire my pages photocopied from the publiclibrary copy. 2. The new Tom Morgan Rodsmiths site is now up. It looks fantastic.com Greatinfoon the Hand Mill. Nice pics also. No commercial interest. Just good people.Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Apr 3 11:40:37 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Change in E-mail Is that earthling.net or earthlink.net... -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Change in E-mail Jason,how does a free binder sound? Well its close to free dependinghow much stuff you have around. Here's the link,Shawnhttp://www.Shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com Zeneca@earthling.net wrote: Also, there has been a change to my email..... I am no longerusing Zeneca@netzero.net. Please ignore that and use Zeneca@earthling.net ment to change that before I posted... Jason_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from steve@hamiltonrods.com Mon Apr 3 13:25:04 2000 Subject: Wrap colors I've been experimenting with various wrap colors--solid black, cherry red,dark green tipped with yellow, etc. using an off-white thread that turnsessentially transparent when varnished. Three questions: (1) Anyone else out there like the transparent (not just translucent) lookon a flamed rod?(2) What other thread colors are typical for a flamed rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap styles and colors? --Steve from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Mon Apr 3 13:41:35 2000 with ESMTPA id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 3 Apr 2000 14:40:50 EDT Subject: Communication from Editor Mark, I'am still looking for the explanation that you were going to post inreply to my call last month. By the posts I have seen since in regardsto your magazine it appears you have very little regards for yoursubscribers and even less for those who sent me wishes of 'bamboslivers' under my nails for suggesting the removal of your subscriptionnotice from Rodmakers list. In the sake of ethics I believe you should pull your subscription notice from Rodmakers if you are not going to be able to deliver the product.I'am not talking flyboxes and hats but the magazine itself. With Regrets,Jim Tefft from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Mon Apr 3 14:50:28 2000 Subject: RE: Winding a rod... Where can we find info on Tom Smithwick's binder? B. Kling -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Winding a rod... Jason, don't be afraid to bind your first couple of rods by hand. It works,and some folks still prefer this method.Also, you might want to check out Tom Smithwick's amazing little binder.Simplicity in itself, cheap as heck and, more importantly, it works! Ibelieve that I built mine for ca. $20.J. Snider At 11:10 PM 04/02/2000 -0400, Zeneca@netzero.net wrote:Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods after gluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that works well, or a web address where I might order a moderately priced unit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Mon Apr 3 16:26:46 2000 (BST) Subject: Rod Winders boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01BF9DBC.37614FC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BF9DBC.37614FC0 Has anyone out there got and/or used one of the 'Master Track Wrapping =Machines' that are on Golden Witch. They look great but before I do =anyhting I thought I would check to see if there are any users or what =others do.ThanksTim. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BF9DBC.37614FC0 Has anyone out there got and/or= any users or what others do.ThanksTim. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BF9DBC.37614FC0-- from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon Apr 3 16:32:28 2000 OAA01563 ESMTP; Mon, 3 Apr 2000 14:32:46 -0700 (5.5.2650.21) "'watson@cape-consult.co.uk'" Subject: RE: Rod Winders After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and talking to himabout it I got one of the Bellingerbinders from Goldenwich and it's absolutely great. Tips come out realstraight like the Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: Watson's[SMTP:watson@cape-consult.co.uk] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:30 PM Subject: Rod Winders Has anyone out there got and/or used one of the 'Master Track WrappingMachines' that are on Golden Witch.They look great but before I do anyhting I thought I would check to see ifthere are any users or what othersdo.ThanksTim. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Apr 3 17:02:55 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: RE: Rod Winders I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out very straight.Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bit heavier gauge.I was breaking thread too easily. With the nylon embroidery thread I use,it is fantastic. I will post the thread if any one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote:After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips cameout and talking to him about it I got one of the Bellinger binders fromGoldenwich and it's absolutely great. Tips come out real straight likethe Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901 79 April 03, 2000 2:30 PM Winders before I do anyhting I thought I would check to see if there are anyusers or what others do. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from anglport@con2.com Mon Apr 3 17:05:20 2000 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A4E72C6C0150; Mon, 03 Apr 2000 18:02:15 -0400 Subject: RE: Winding a rod... Barry, Try:http://www.canerod.com/Main1/ Noodle around in there and you'll find all sortsa good "stuff". http://www.canerod.com/Tools/Index.html and LO! there is the Smithwick binder.Enjoy!Art At 02:50 PM 04/03/2000 -0500, Kling, Barry W. wrote: Where can we find info on Tom Smithwick's binder? B. Kling -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 7:37 AM Subject: Re: Winding a rod... Jason, don't be afraid to bind your first couple of rods by hand. It works,and some folks still prefer this method.Also, you might want to check out Tom Smithwick's amazing little binder.Simplicity in itself, cheap as heck and, more importantly, it works! Ibelieve that I built mine for ca. $20.J. Snider At 11:10 PM 04/02/2000 -0400, Zeneca@netzero.net wrote:Hey, I have been looking for a good winder to wind my rods after gluing. does anyone have any digrams of an old favorite that works well, or a web address where I might order a moderately priced unit? Jason Martin_____________________________________________NetZero - Defenders of the Free WorldClick here for FREE Internet Access and Emailhttp://www.netzero.net/download/index.html from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Mon Apr 3 17:15:11 2000 Subject: RE: Rod Winders I think the question was about a rig for wrapping guides/ferrules etc....BK -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Rod Winders I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out very straight.Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bit heavier gauge. Iwas breaking thread too easily. With the nylon embroidery thread I use, itis fantastic. I will post the thread if any one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote: After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and talking to himaboutit I got one of the Bellinger binders from Goldenwich and it's absolutelygreat. Tips come out real straight like the Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: Watson's[SMTP:watson@cape-consult.co.uk] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:30 PM Subject: Rod Winders Has anyone out there got and/or used one of the 'Master Track WrappingMachines' that are on Golden Witch. They look great but before I doanyhting I thought I would check to see if there are any users or whatothers do.ThanksTim. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon Apr 3 17:27:01 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: RE: Rod Winders Oh. In that case, I got the $8 one from Cabellas. It works fine for nylonor silk. I like the one from GW. If it was worth it, I would fork up thecash. This would be worth it, since you know that the wrapping is one ofthose things everyone scrutinizes over. It is also one of the things thatI struggle with when my eyes are tired. Bob At 05:15 PM 4/3/00 -0500, you wrote:I think the question was about a rig forwrapping guides/ferrules etc....BK -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Rod Winders I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out verystraight.Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bit heavier gauge.Iwas breaking thread too easily. With the nylon embroidery thread I use,itis fantastic. I will post the thread if any one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote: After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and talking to himaboutit I got one of the Bellinger binders from Goldenwich and it'sabsolutelygreat. Tips come out real straight like the Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901 79 Watson's[SMTP:watson@cape-consult.co.uk] April03, 2000 2:30 PM Wrapping doanyhting I thought I would check to see if there are any users orwhatothers do. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Apr 3 17:46:10 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 3 Apr 2000 17:34:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Wrap colors boundary="----=_NextPart_000_009F_01BF9D94.D264B840" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BF9D94.D264B840 I've always liked a light beige, with varnish finish, as it sort of =blends with the dark areas of the flamed cane. Just a classy look, if =it's done neatly. GMA Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 1:26 PMSubject: Wrap colors I've been experimenting with various wrap colors--solid black, cherry =red, dark green tipped with yellow, etc. For my latest rod, I'm working =on a tiger- flamed look and I'm considering using an off-white thread =that turns essentially transparent when varnished. Three questions: (1) Anyone else out there like the transparent (not just translucent) =look on a flamed rod?(2) What other thread colors are typical for a flamed rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap styles and =colors? --Steve ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BF9D94.D264B840 I've always liked a light beige, with varnish finish, as it = blends with the dark areas of the flamed cane. Just a classy look, if = neatly. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Zimmerman Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 = PMSubject: Wrap colorsI've been experimenting with various wrap colors-- solid= cherry red, dark green tipped with yellow, etc. For my latest rod, I'm = on a tiger-flamed look and I'm considering using an off-white thread = turns essentially transparent when varnished. Three = Anyone else out there like the transparent (not just translucent) look = rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap styles = colors?--Steve ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BF9D94.D264B840-- from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Mon Apr 3 17:54:15 2000 Mon, 3 Apr 2000 23:54:07 +0100 (BST) Subject: Re: Rod Winders Yes, apologies for not using the right words. I was talking about whippingon the guides and ferrules as Barry saysTim.----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Rod Winders I think the question was about a rig for wrapping guides/ferrulesetc....BK -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 5:00 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Rod Winders I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out very straight.Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bit heavier gauge. Iwas breaking thread too easily. With the nylon embroidery thread I use,itis fantastic. I will post the thread if any one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote: After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and talking to himaboutit I got one of the Bellinger binders from Goldenwich and it's absolutelygreat. Tips come out real straight like the Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: Watson's[SMTP:watson@cape-consult.co.uk] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:30 PM Subject: Rod Winders Has anyone out there got and/or used one of the 'Master Track WrappingMachines' that are on Golden Witch. They look great but before I doanyhting I thought I would check to see if there are any users or whatothers do.ThanksTim. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Apr 3 18:06:47 2000 (204.186.211.72) Subject: Re: Rod Winders bob maulucci wrote: I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out verystraight. Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bitheavier gauge. I was breaking thread too easily. With the nylonembroidery thread I use, it is fantastic. I will post the thread ifany one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote: After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and> talking tohim about it I got one of the Bellinger binders from Goldenwich and it's absolutely great. Tips come outreal straight like the Medved binder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: Watson's[SMTP:watson@cape-consult.co.uk] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 2:30 PM Subject: Rod Winders Has anyone out there got and/or used one of the 'MasterTrack Wrapping Machines' that are on Golden Witch. Theylook great but before I do anyhting I thought I would checkto see if there are any users or what others do.ThanksTim. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.comHi Bob, I also use the Bellinger Binder and although my tips come outstraight they do have a twist to them that I can only get out with heatafter the glue cures. Any idea what the problem is? I used for years aMillward type binder that I made and it never put a twist in thesection. Marty from bob@downandacross.com Mon Apr 3 18:07:01 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Wrap colors Hi Steve:On flamed rods, I like the black myself, tipped with gold. This is how mySB Cross Sylph is, and since it was the first great rod I ever owned, Iguess I am a sucker for that combination. I also like the java beige thatI got from Munro a while back. It's 6/0 though, and I find it a bear touse. I am now experimenting with YLI 3/0 in several shades of brown. Saw a rod this weekend wrapped in that Pearsall's chestnut from GW anditlooked stunning. It was a transparent orangish brown. Just great on amedium flamed rod. I might also add that the rod was a fantastic caster.Thanks, Joe P for letting me cast it. (Am I right on the thread part?) I also finished off a blond rod in purple of all colors, tipped black. Itis not as tacky as you might expect. I like the effect I got. It is kindof a grape over the light blond rod, and I like it a lot.Bob At 05:48 PM 4/3/00 -0500, you wrote:I've always liked a light beige, withvarnish finish, as it sort of blends with the dark areas of the flamedcane. Just a classy look, if it's done neatly. GMA----- Original Message ----- From: SteveZimmerman Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 1:26 PMSubject: Wrap colors I've been experimenting with various wrap colors--solid black, cherry red,dark green tipped with yellow, etc. using an off-white thread that turnsessentially transparent when varnished. Three questions: (1) Anyone else out there like the transparent (not just translucent) lookon a flamed rod?(2) What other thread colors are typical for a flamed rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap styles and colors? --Steve Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon Apr 3 18:43:19 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Thread for binding thread in the Bellinger binder:Coats and Clark brand (gold and blue label)T26NylonUpholstery137m 150 yds.I purchased it at Joanne Fabrics. Any local craft store should haveit. They also make a comparable weight glaced cotton that I have for heattreating. I found that I was breaking the GW nylon constantly. This stuffworks great at $2 a pop. I bought white for flamed rods and dark blue forlight blond rods. I like to see the binding thread easily on the blank.Size wise, it is close to size A nylon wrapping thread I wouldguess.Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from channer1@rmi.net Mon Apr 3 18:55:09 2000 Subject: Re: Rod Winders bob maulucci wrote: I agree. The Bellinger binder is great. My tips came out verystraight. Although I changed from the nylon that Russ sent to a bitheavier gauge. I was breaking thread too easily. With the nylonembroidery thread I use, it is fantastic. I will post the thread ifany one wants to know.Bob At 02:32 PM 4/3/00 -0700, you wrote: After seeing how good D. Whitehead's tips came out and talking tohim about it I got one of the Bellinger binders from Goldenwich andit's absolutely great. Tips come out real straight like the Medvedbinder. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------Thanks for the encouraging posts guys, I am going to be glueing up a rodwith mine for the first time this weekend, I hope my tip troubles areover!John from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Apr 3 19:12:55 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 3 Apr 2000 19:01:17 -0500 Subject: Re: Thread for binding boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF9DA0.EE345B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF9DA0.EE345B00 My, such fine thread for binding ? I tho't most used a much heavier =cotton cord in the binders. GMA Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 6:40 PMSubject: Thread for binding the Bellinger binder:Coats and Clark brand (gold and blue label)T26NylonUpholstery137m 150 yds.I purchased it at Joanne Fabrics. Any local craft store should have =it. They also make a comparable weight glaced cotton that I have for =heat treating. I found that I was breaking the GW nylon constantly. This =stuff works great at $2 a pop. I bought white for flamed rods and dark =blue for light blond rods. I like to see the binding thread easily on =the blank. Size wise, it is close to size A nylon wrapping thread I =would guess. Bob Maulucci==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF9DA0.EE345B00 My, such fine thread for binding ? I tho't most used a much= cotton cord in the binders. GMA ----- Original Message ----- maulucci = Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 = PMSubject: Thread for =binding the Bellinger binder:Coats and Clark brand (gold and blue label)T26NylonUpholstery137m 150 yds.I purchased it at Joanne Fabrics. Any local craft store should = They also make a comparable weight glaced cotton that I have for treating. I found that I was breaking the GW nylon constantly. This = works great at $2 a pop. I bought white for flamed rods and dark blue = light blond rods. I like to see the binding thread easily on the = wise, it is close to size A nylon wrapping thread I would = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF9DA0.EE345B00-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Apr 3 19:15:47 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 3 Apr 2000 19:04:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Wrap colors boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0108_01BF9DA1.56D5A240" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0108_01BF9DA1.56D5A240 I have an original Cross S.B. that is blond, and its chestnut, and =reddish brown wraps are very nice, and blend nicely. It has a very =light, alum. reel seat, that I've never seen before ! GMA Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 6:03 PMSubject: Re: Wrap colors Hi Steve:On flamed rods, I like the black myself, tipped with gold. This is how =my SB Cross Sylph is, and since it was the first great rod I ever owned, =I guess I am a sucker for that combination. I also like the java beige =that I got from Munro a while back. It's 6/0 though, and I find it a =bear to use. I am now experimenting with YLI 3/0 in several shades of = Saw a rod this weekend wrapped in that Pearsall's chestnut from GW and=it looked stunning. It was a transparent orangish brown. Just great on a =medium flamed rod. I might also add that the rod was a fantastic caster. = I also finished off a blond rod in purple of all colors, tipped black. =It is not as tacky as you might expect. I like the effect I got. It is =kind of a grape over the light blond rod, and I like it a lot.Bob At 05:48 PM 4/3/00 -0500, you wrote: I've always liked a light beige, with varnish finish, as it sort of =blends with the dark areas of the flamed cane. Just a classy look, if =it's done neatly. GMA Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 1:26 PMSubject: Wrap colors I've been experimenting with various wrap colors--solid black, =cherry red, dark green tipped with yellow, etc. For my latest rod, I'm =working on a tiger- flamed look and I'm considering using an off-white =thread that turns essentially transparent when varnished. Three =questions: (1) Anyone else out there like the transparent (not just =translucent) look on a flamed rod?(2) What other thread colors are typical for a flamed rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap styles and =colors? --Steve Bob Maulucci==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= ------=_NextPart_000_0108_01BF9DA1.56D5A240 I have an original Cross S.B. that is blond, and its = reddish brown wraps are very nice, and blend nicely. It has a very = reel seat, that I've never seen before ! GMA ----- Original Message ----- maulucci = Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Wrap colorsHi Steve:On flamed rods, I like the black myself, = with gold. This is how my SB Cross Sylph is, and since it was the = rod I ever owned, I guess I am a sucker for that combination. I also = java beige that I got from Munro a while back. It's 6/0 though, and I = a bear to use. I am now experimenting with YLI 3/0 in several shades = Saw a rod this weekend wrapped in that Pearsall's chestnut from GW= looked stunning. It was a transparent orangish brown. Just great on a = flamed rod. I might also add that the rod was a fantastic caster. = P for letting me cast it. (Am I right on the thread part?) I also = off a blond rod in purple of all colors, tipped black. It is not as = you might expect. I like the effect I got. It is kind of a grape over = light blond rod, and I like it a lot.BobAt 05:48 PM 4/3/00 = you wrote:I've always liked a light beige, with = finish, as it sort of blends with the dark areas of the flamed cane. = classy look, if it's done = ----- Original Message ----- = Steve Zimmerman = RodMakers = Monday, April 03, 2000 1:26 PMSubject: Wrap = been experimenting with various wrap colors--solid black, cherry = green tipped with yellow, etc. For my latest rod, I'm working on a = tiger-flamed look and I'm considering using an off-white thread = essentially transparent when varnished. Three = else out there like the transparent (not just translucent) look on = flamed rod?(2) What other thread colors are typical for a = rod?(3) Is there a photo archive of traditional rod wrap = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = ------=_NextPart_000_0108_01BF9DA1.56D5A240-- from mschaffer@mindspring.com Tue Apr 4 04:27:33 2000 Subject: Help needed-airlines tickets-best websites Guys,Please forgive the semi-rodmakers bandwidth, but I need some help infindingthe best website for discount airline tickets to the FFF meeting inMontanain August. Any help would be mucho appreciated! Thanks, Mike from chris@artistree.com Tue Apr 4 05:00:45 2000 Subject: Re: Help needed-airlines tickets-best websites Mike,I've been extreamly happy with the fares from Cheap Tickets. Their website is http://www.cheaptickets.com I'm all ears if anyone else has some other suggestions. -- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Mike Shaffer wrote: Guys,Please forgive the semi-rodmakers bandwidth, but I need some help infindingthe best website for discount airline tickets to the FFF meeting inMontanain August. Any help would be mucho appreciated! Thanks, Mike from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue Apr 4 08:42:29 2000 Subject: Re: Wrap colors Bob, Yes it is Pearsall's classic chestnut, came out very nice, the Pearsall's is marvelous to work with [no fuzzy's].Your Drigg's looks good with the purple wraps.I really like the delicate black tipping, greatcasting rod also. You did a great job on your first rod.Joe from carinad@netactive.co.za Tue Apr 4 10:23:51 2000 sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:23:13 +0200 (SAT) Subject: Planing BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_NdUjWYxd1EVNZHLlOAIQCg)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_NdUjWYxd1EVNZHLlOAIQCg) I hope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. I can =not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without it =slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Please help. Thanks, Dirk de Villiers --Boundary_(ID_NdUjWYxd1EVNZHLlOAIQCg) I hope that you can help me with a = my first rod. I can not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing = without it slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Please = help. Thanks, Dirk de =Villiers --Boundary_(ID_NdUjWYxd1EVNZHLlOAIQCg)-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Apr 4 10:36:13 2000 Tue, 4 Apr 2000 12:35:40 -0300 Subject: Re: Planing boundary="------------EFD3BADCED04B022408E7AA5" --------------EFD3BADCED04B022408E7AA5 Dirk,Sounds like you may be trying to take too thick a cut atonce.This causes the plane to "stick"and drag the bamboo along with it.Try taking a very thin shaving and make sure your blades are deadlysharp.Also, try planing from butt to tip.Hope this helps,Shawn Fables wrote: I hope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. Ican not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without itslipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Pleasehelp. Thanks, Dirk de Villiers --------------EFD3BADCED04B022408E7AA5 Dirk, tryingto take too thick a cut at once.This causes the plane to "stick"and dragthe bamboo along with it. Try taking a very thin shaving and make sureyour blades are deadly sharp. buttto tip. Hope this helps, ShawnFables wrote: Ihope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. I can notseem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without it slipping onceI start planing. How do I hold it still? Please de Villiers --------------EFD3BADCED04B022408E7AA5-- from caneman@clnk.com Tue Apr 4 11:00:34 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:57:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Planing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BF9E24.AAAF7520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BF9E24.AAAF7520 Dirk,Could be that your blade in your plane is not sharp enough or that =you are trying to take too much material off. Also could be that the =foot on your plane (the gap forward of your blade) is too small, not =allowing the shavings to pass through.First, check the sharpness of your blade. If it doesn't strike fear =in your heart to try to shave with it, then it isn't sharp enough. If =that isn't the problem, then adjust your plane, and take smaller passes. Bob-----Original Message-----From: Fables Date: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 10:26 AMSubject: Planing I hope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. I =can not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without it =slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Please help. Thanks, Dirk de Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BF9E24.AAAF7520 Dirk, = your plane is not sharp enough or that you are trying to take too much = blade) is too small, not allowing the shavings to pass =through. the = your plane, and take smaller passes. Bob -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= PlaningI hope that you can help me with a = building my first rod. I can not seem to hold the bamboo split in = planing form without it slipping once I start planing. How do I hold = still? Please help. Thanks, Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BF9E24.AAAF7520-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Apr 4 11:36:28 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 4 Apr 2000 11:24:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Planing Form boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9E2A.51B69B00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9E2A.51B69B00 Can anyone give me an Email address for the Planing Form. I received 2 =issues last time, and need to check and see if I subscribed twice ! Thanks, GMA Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 11:31 AMSubject: Re: Planing Sounds like you may be trying to take too thick a cut at =once.This causes the plane to "stick"and drag the bamboo along with it. =Try taking a very thin shaving and make sure your blades are deadly = I hope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. I =can not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without it =slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Please help. =Thanks, Dirk de Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9E2A.51B69B00 Can anyone give me an Email address for the Planing Form. I= received 2 issues last time, and need to check and see if I subscribed = ! Thanks, GMA ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 = AMSubject: Re: Planing = like you may be trying to take too thick a cut at once.This causes the = to "stick"and drag the bamboo along with it. Try taking a very thin = = = = I hope that you can help me with= building my first rod. I can not seem to hold the bamboo split in = planing form without it slipping once I start planing. How do I hold = Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF9E2A.51B69B00-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Apr 4 12:16:42 2000 Subject: transparent wraps I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Apr 4 12:32:20 2000 10:32:47 PDT Subject: re: transparent wraps Shawn, If you finish the blank prior to wrapping and then brush the finish on the wraps then use a color preserver to get away from the transparent look. Clear lacquer will retain a darker color then the water based Flex Coat, which maintains the spool color pretty well, but I've used either and they work fine. If you dip the sections after you have wrapped then my suggestion wouldbe to stay with your transparent look. Dipping over preserved wraps can be an ongoing struggle. It requires quite a build of preserver layers to keep the varnish from seeping in. This results in wraps that may be a bit bulkier then you prefer. If a few dark splotches where the varnish bleeds through doesn't bother you then go for it, but if you want the wraps to be perfectly uniform in color retention, preservation is a can of worms. This is my opinion of course, there are probably others who dip over their preserved wraps with no complications. Chris---------- Original Text ---------- I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Apr 4 12:49:15 2000 Subject: Re: Planing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF9E23.542DE0C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF9E23.542DE0C0 Hi Dirk,To hold the strip in place while you are planing and assuming you're =right handed, put rubber finger cots on you left hand. Press the strip =down into the groove with the left hand planing from the deep end of the =form groove towards the shallow end of the form groove. Press down with=the left hand closer to you, that is behind the right hand so that the =strip does not buckle while planing. The strip will tend to slip endwise =less as it gets closer to an actual triangle and nearer to final size.Ray Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 8:28 AMSubject: Planing I hope that you can help me with a problem building my first rod. I =can not seem to hold the bamboo split in the planing form without it =slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? Please help. Thanks, Dirk de Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF9E23.542DE0C0 Hi Dirk,To hold the strip in place while you = and assuming you're right handed, put rubber finger cots on you left = Press the strip down into the groove with the left hand planing from the = end of the form groove towards the shallow end of the form groove. Press= with the left hand closer to you, that is behind the right hand so that = strip does not buckle while planing. The strip will tend to slip endwise = it gets closer to an actual triangle and nearer to final =size.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Fables = Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 = AMSubject: Planing I hope that you can help me with a = building my first rod. I can not seem to hold the bamboo split in the = form without it slipping once I start planing. How do I hold it still? = help. Thanks, Villiers ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF9E23.542DE0C0-- from teekay35@interlynx.net Tue Apr 4 13:05:00 2000 Subject: Re: transparent wraps Shawn, try using Varathane varnish as a preserver on the thread wraps. Itwill give you a solid transluscent finish which will be almost the same asthe dry thread colour. Since its a flooring varnish it also drys fast, ie,you can put on several coats a day. Varathane is also compatible withsparvarnish, so there is no problem with the two varnishes reacdting to eachother. ----------From: Shawn Pineo Subject: transparent wrapsDate: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 2:11 PM I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from caneman@clnk.com Tue Apr 4 13:06:26 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:02:54 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: transparent wraps Shawn,A couple of different methods... coat the wraps with 3 or 4 coats ofclear laquer which will act as a color preserver. There are somecommercially available color preservers out there, but in the past I haveused white glue, thinned 50% with water, and applied 4 coats of that onthewraps before varnishing. Keep in mind that if you color preserve, that youwill get the TRUE color of the thread, so your dark carmel color won't bethere. If that is what you want, then get the color silk you want and colorpreserve it, then varnish over the top. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: transparent wraps I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Apr 4 13:07:58 2000 Subject: Re: transparent wraps Shawn,Here's an idea for you. Make up some sample sticks, that is a section of afly rod blank, with various colors and sizes of thread wrapped over guides.Label each guide with the thread and finish. Some could have colorpreserverand varnish, some just varnished, Some can be silk and some can be nylon.Ifthe customer really wants non-transparent wraps show him/her somewith nylonNCP (you can't see thru this at all). I note that on my sample sticks I haveCorticelli antique gold finished with varnish and you can't really see theguide foot color thru the varnish as it is a carmel color. In that way thecustomer can pick out what's desired and there'll be no surprises.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: transparent wraps I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from caneman@clnk.com Tue Apr 4 13:08:17 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:04:45 -0500 Subject: Re: transparent wraps One more option, Shawn... find the color you want in NCP nylon thread anduse that. doesn't change color under varnish, and looks OK... not as niceas 6/0 silk, but if wrapped good, looks very good. Gary Howells, Winston,and others use NCP Nylon and their rods are "classy" to say the least. Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: transparent wraps I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from steve@hamiltonrods.com Tue Apr 4 13:39:45 2000 codemarine.209.170.128.193 with SMTP (MicrosoftExchange Internet Mail Service Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: Re: transparent wraps When building my first rod, I was unaware that the wrap colors woulddarken when varnished. D'oh!! I ended upbuying additional, lighter colored thread so that it would darken to thedesired color. But I also did severalcolor preserver tests with wraps on top of an already varnished blank. Itried head cement among other things,but ended up using nail polish thinned significantly with nail polishremover (something like 70% remover to30% polish). The nail polish applicator brush was nice to work with andcolor preservation was pretty darngood--only very slight darkening with little or no seeping. Keep in mindthat I was varnishing the wraps aftervarnishing the blanks, tho. What I didn't like about my color preserver treatment was the fact thatthe preserver (i.e. thinned nailpolish) prevented the top coats of varnish from fully bonding the wraps tothe blank. I expected the headcement to bond the wraps to the varnished blank, but it only did a partialjob. Using an xacto knife, I wasactually able to cut through the wraps and peel them off in one neat strip--not exactly a great bond with theblank. In fact, on a couple of the guides wrapped with color preserver, Inoticed that I could actually slidethe guide back and forth a bit underneath the wrap. I was able to fix that glue between the guide foot and the blank--but I concluded that my ownpreference will be to use a lightercolored thread with no preserver and let it darken and become translucent.It's an acquired taste perhaps, butI like the look. Well, actually, I don't like the look of the ferrule tabsunderneath the wraps, but I'll justuse black thread! --Steve ----- Original Message ----- Subject: transparent wraps I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from mep@mint.net Tue Apr 4 15:20:49 2000 Tue, 4 Apr 2000 16:20:38 -0400 Subject: Re: transparent wraps What I do is apply a clear latex based "varnish" over the silk. The varnishthen goes on over that. I use Benjamin Moore Interior. It's water based. Ihad a can left over when I built the house ten years ago and am still usingit. I thin it 50/50 with water. It will darken the thread so try some on afew practice wraps on a left over piece of bamboo first The wraps willturnout opaque. Shawn Pineo wrote: I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don't wantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Apr 4 15:32:50 2000 Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:32:16 -0300 Subject: Re: transparent wraps Thanks everyone,all these methods are compatible with spar varnishbut how about spar urethane?I agree with Steve, the durability of a heated,thinned urethane coat that goes right through to the blank seems to morethanoffset the translucent effect! That way I know that the only way thethread iscoming off is to grind it off. Shawn mep wrote: What I do is apply a clear latex based "varnish" over the silk. The varnishthen goes on over that. I use Benjamin Moore Interior. It's water based. Ihad a can left over when I built the house ten years ago and am stillusingit. I thin it 50/50 with water. It will darken the thread so try some on afew practice wraps on a left over piece of bamboo first The wraps willturnout opaque. Shawn Pineo wrote: I have used semi transparent silk wraps on all of my bamboo (nylonthread on fiberglass / graphite doesn't seem to have have this problem)and love the look. I have been using Bellding Cortecelli antique goldwhich turns a beautiful semi transparent dark caramel color when I puthelmsman spar urethane over it without color preserver. I have hadsomeone ask that the wraps not be semi transparent i.e. they don'twantto see the guide feet and ferrule crowns.How do I go about that? A graphite building friend suggested justkeep applying layers of thread till it isn't clear anymore, but thatsounds unrealistic. Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Apr 4 15:55:59 2000 2000 17:51:08 -0400 Subject: Robert Venneri's reel seats Just a quick note to say how happy I was to see Robert's reelseats arrive in my mailbox today! They are a true work of art. Roberthas found a happy, repeat customer in me! They are by far the nicestones I've seen (including the Bellinger, Sage and Struble ones I nowhave).Once again, no commercial interest, just due credit for a very,very good product and a super guy to deal with!Shawn PineoNew Scotland FlyRods from rmoon@ida.net Tue Apr 4 16:00:28 2000 0000 Subject: Re: Planing The replies from Bob and Shawn will probably be the answer to yourproblem, but i would add the caveat that this is most dangerous.. Morethan once I have sliced four fingers nearly to the bone. You should tryto hold the strip with something other than your hand. An eraser,finger cots, rubbergloves, kevlar gloves--it doesn't matter much as longas you have more friction on the strip. Then if it does slide all isnot delayed while the surgeon sews the ends of your fingers back on.But above all use a really sharp blade and take a thin cut.Ralph from caneman@clnk.com Tue Apr 4 16:25:58 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Tue, 4 Apr 2000 16:22:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Planing Ralph,You are absolutely right about using something on your fingers. Ididn't say anything, because I am the worlds worst about NOT usinganything.Just a mental thing, I guess, but I like to feel the bamboo in the forms.Unfortunately, my fingers have been cut so many times during finalplaningthat most times they don't even bleed anymore. This is not a good thing! Iguess the scar tissue has built up to the point that it has to go prettydeep before I bring blood these days...SO.... all of you out there that are just starting out... use gloves orfinger cots, or erasers or something to keep that strip from slipping in theforms, lest your fingertips become scarred up and lacking sensitivity likemine. Bob -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Planing The replies from Bob and Shawn will probably be the answer to yourproblem, but i would add the caveat that this is most dangerous.. Morethan once I have sliced four fingers nearly to the bone. You should tryto hold the strip with something other than your hand. An eraser,finger cots, rubbergloves, kevlar gloves--it doesn't matter much as longas you have more friction on the strip. Then if it does slide all isnot delayed while the surgeon sews the ends of your fingers back on.But above all use a really sharp blade and take a thin cut.Ralph from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Apr 4 16:45:55 2000 Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:45:18 -0300 Subject: Re: Planing Ralph,Sagely Advice!! Nothing sucks worse than being bandaged up andhaving a rod half planed out, sitting there mocking, taunting.... Ahhhooops, I was getting carried away there for a second. You get the pointthough.I still plane with bare finger but I've learned to go slow, takingthin shavings and have acquired a keen sense of feel for when the rod isabout to slip! It's a miracle that I can feel anything through the scartissue on my finger tips! ;^) Shawn Ralph W Moon wrote: The replies from Bob and Shawn will probably be the answer to yourproblem, but i would add the caveat that this is most dangerous.. Morethan once I have sliced four fingers nearly to the bone. You should tryto hold the strip with something other than your hand. An eraser,finger cots, rubbergloves, kevlar gloves--it doesn't matter much as longas you have more friction on the strip. Then if it does slide all isnot delayed while the surgeon sews the ends of your fingers back on.But above all use a really sharp blade and take a thin cut.Ralph from punky@integratedmillsystems.com Tue Apr 4 16:54:35 2000 Subject: Re: Planing Hope that doesn't mean you're losing your touch! ;-) Keith SO.... all of you out there that are just starting out... use gloves orfinger cots, or erasers or something to keep that strip from slipping intheforms, lest your fingertips become scarred up and lacking sensitivity likemine. from dmanders@telusplanet.net Tue Apr 4 17:22:09 2000 hme0.telusplanet.net(InterMail vM.4.01.02.11 201-229-116-111) with SMTP Tue, 4 Apr 2000 16:22:06 -0600 Subject: Re: transparent wraps Shawn, I usually test my wrap choices in the area where the cork grip is mounted.That way you know the blank vs thread color and cover the testing areawithcork. Donhttp://www.telusplanet.net/public/dmanders/index.html from if6were9@bellsouth.net Tue Apr 4 17:22:42 2000 SAA19610; Subject: Re: Wrap colors If you want a real nice effect for a flamed rod, get a spool of white threadand some yellow, red, and blacksharpies. Mark up the thread with the sharpies and wrap. With a bit ofpractice you can come up with somevery nice looking flamed thread wraps. Finish without colorpreserver and the white thread disappears leaving only the color behind. from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Apr 4 17:23:56 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:24:46 -0500 Subject: Re: Robert Venneri's reel seats boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01BF9E5A.DF568DA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BF9E5A.DF568DA0 Robert who ? Where ?. etc. ? GMA Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 4:51 PMSubject: Robert Venneri's reel seats Just a quick note to say how happy I was to see Robert's reelseats arrive in my mailbox today! They are a true work of art. Roberthas found a happy, repeat customer in me! They are by far the nicestones I've seen (including the Bellinger, Sage and Struble ones I nowhave).Once again, no commercial interest, just due credit for a very,very good product and a super guy to deal with!Shawn PineoNew Scotland =FlyRods ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BF9E5A.DF568DA0