from seanmcs@ar.com.au Mon May 1 00:06:43 2000 Mon, 1 May 2000 14:43:04 +1000 Rodmakers List Subject: Re: UPS Sucks Darrell: This was the only time it has happened this way. Usually doestake 6- 8 weeks surface mail from USA to Oz. Sean "Darrell A. Lee" wrote: Guess the postal letter carriers walk on water! That's good to know, I've been scared off from attempting to ship byUSPSsurface mail to asia or europe which on their web site quotes 4-6weeks... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 4:03 AM Cc: irish-george@pacbell.net; dickay@alltel.net; Rodmakers ListSubject: Re: UPS Sucks Art: Last year I bought a really heavy book from Philadelphia, chosingUSPS surface mail at $9.95 to Sydney, Australia. Charged to a creditcard, it was in my New South Wales letterbox five days later. Sean Art Port wrote: All,I've been trying to sit this one out, but I think I can save youmoneywith a cautionary tale of the USPS.On SEVERAL occasions, I've refused to pay extra for 3-daydeliveryorother "speedy service" since I didn't need the article immediately andinEVERY instance I got delivery within the "speeded-up" window withoutpayingthe premium. I've said to my wife that I certainly would have beenhappywith their service if I had paid that premium!This may only work in megalopol(i)(?) like the Northeast corridor(where Iam currently trapped as an indentured servant *G*), but it may beworthtrying where you are if you're not in an absolute panic over havingsomething.Art At 10:15 PM 04/29/2000 -0700, irish-george wrote:always ASK if the address you are sending to is served by nextdaydelivery, even some major technology centers AREN'T.) George ----- ListSent: Friday, April 28, 2000 5:55 PM Subject: UPS SucksWhat's wrong with this??? Dick Fuhrman from brookie@frii.com Mon May 1 09:21:21 2000 Subject: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Seems like some of us just bop into the RodM. list now and again to askyour input and comments on 'found' cane ... you know the kind, found in anantique/junk shop or garage sale. Just rec'd such a request from afriend in New Zealand, and I/he would appreciate your comments .... privateemail would be great and I'll forward comments on to him, thanks inadvance : and today in a junk shop, I saw a likelycandidate for refinishing .... Split cane, marked ' Tongasand' .... good nick but I immediatelythought ... Japanese .... what the heck is 'Tongasand' ! ? Close examination of the reel seat showed, in *tiny* hand punched letters .... J.J.S. Walker-Bamfton & Co., Makers, Alawick . Thats' as close as I could make out. Reel seat is machined metal, ferrules and guidesare brass. Not knowing a heck of a lot about the time, it wasintersesting to note that the ferrules contected " bayonet " mountingstyle. suecolorado from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon May 1 09:29:04 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 1 May 2000 09:16:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Sounds like an English made rod to me, from the engraving description.Moredetails on the ferrules would help, but there are some here who know agreatdeal about the production from the U.K.. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Seems like some of us just bop into the RodM. list now and again to askyour input and comments on 'found' cane ... you know the kind, found in anantique/junk shop or garage sale. Just rec'd such a request from afriend in New Zealand, and I/he would appreciate your comments ....privateemail would be great and I'll forward comments on to him, thanks inadvance : and today in a junk shop, I saw a likelycandidate for refinishing .... Split cane, marked ' Tongasand' .... good nick but I immediatelythought ... Japanese .... what the heck is 'Tongasand' ! ? Close examination of the reel seat showed, in *tiny* hand punchedletters .... J.J.S. Walker-Bamfton & Co., Makers, Alawick . Thats' as closeas I could make out. Reel seat is machined metal, ferrules and guidesare brass. Not knowing a heck of a lot about the time, it wasintersesting to note that the ferrules contected " bayonet " mountingstyle. suecolorado from brookie@frii.com Mon May 1 09:32:34 2000 Subject: Re: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Sounds like an English made rod to me, from the engraving description. More details on the ferrules would help, butthere are some here who know a great deal about the production from the U.K.. Just thought of a couple other things, first, what 'more details on theferrules' could this chap provide ? Description of them in what way ?Also, at one point, I had a contact in England re cane rod, shop Ibelieve that sells older ones (when I was looking for a Cliff Constable),anyone have a web address for a Brit shop ? I've lost my reference to it. suecolorado from grau@buchlang.com Mon May 1 09:49:05 2000 Subject: Re: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Thats an English rod from Walker-Bampton & Co, Makers, Alnwick. Mabyethe name is"Tonga-Sand" - sorry - i do not have my "identification-book" for englishrods onthis workplace. There should be wrote much more - year, collectors price,partsetc. Regards Stefan sue kreutzer schrieb: Seems like some of us just bop into the RodM. list now and again to askyour input and comments on 'found' cane ... you know the kind, found in anantique/junk shop or garage sale. Just rec'd such a request from afriend in New Zealand, and I/he would appreciate your comments ....privateemail would be great and I'll forward comments on to him, thanks inadvance : and today in a junk shop, I saw a likelycandidate for refinishing .... Split cane, marked ' Tongasand' .... good nick but I immediatelythought ... Japanese .... what the heck is 'Tongasand' ! ? Close examination of the reel seat showed, in *tiny* hand punchedletters .... J.J.S. Walker-Bamfton & Co., Makers, Alawick . Thats' as closeas I could make out. Reel seat is machined metal, ferrules and guidesare brass. Not knowing a heck of a lot about the time, it wasintersesting to note that the ferrules contected " bayonet " mountingstyle. suecolorado --Lang Info AccessDatenbanken - CD Rom - InternetliteraturInternet: http://www.buchlang.com/infoaccess/Stefan GrauInformation ConsultantMènzgraben 2CH-3011 Berne/SwitzerlandPhone: 031 310 84 84direct phone: ++41 ( 0 ) 31 310 84 78fax: 310 84 94ausgenommen:Montag vormittag,Dienstag nachmittagMittwoch ganzer Tag---------------------------------------------------------------Sicherheits-Hinweis: Diese elektronische Post ist nur fèr den oder die Empf€nger, welchein der Adress-Zeile genannt werden bestimmt!Falls Sie nicht zu diesen gehåren, verståsst jede- unerlaubte Kopie,- unerlaubte Weiterleitung,- unerlaubte Kenntnisnahme, auch vermutlich oeffentlicher Inhalte,- und unerlaubte Verbreitung der enthaltenen Nachricht(en),sowie jeder anderer unautorisierte Gebrauch gegen geltendes Recht. Falls Sie nicht zu den in der Adresszeile genannten Empf€nger(n) gehåren,so bitten wir Sie um Kontaktnahme des Absenders und Zerstårungder betreffenden Daten von Ihrem Computer._________________________________________ Security-Note: The information transmitted is intended only for the personor entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidentialand/or privileged material.Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, ortaking of any action in reliance upon, this information bypersons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited.If you received this in error, please contact the sender and deletethe material from any computer. from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon May 1 10:13:31 2000 Subject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it earsdws@duke.edu,FlyfishT@aol.com Well guess what? Now the idiots have lost my package. I am on the phone with UPS and they are total idiots when it comes tracking and customer relations. Never again will I use them. Bret from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Mon May 1 10:23:55 2000 Mon, 1 May 2000 11:23:41 -0400 Mon, 1 May 2000 11:23:17 -0400 Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Brett and Others, UPS is famous for gouging the snot out of you if you live in Canada andreceive anything from the USA. They call it brokerage fees. I remember once that a $12.00 package costmeabout $30.00 in brokerage fees. When I was living in Nebraska, I had aModel 12 stock broken by UPS. They denied that they did it, even thoughyoucould see the forklift tire tracks on the box and the groove in the guncase. UPS does suck. Purolator is the best within Canada. FEDEX is best goingacross the border. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- earsdws@duke.edu; FlyfishT@aol.com Subject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Well guess what? Now the idiots have lost my package. I am on the phone with UPS and they are total idiots when it comes tracking and customer relations. Never again will I use them. Bret from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon May 1 10:49:35 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Does FEDEX have that customs fee like UPS? You wouldn't believe howpissedI was!!! Fortunately I had gotten a good enough deal, that I could absorbthe hit, but what a nasty surprise! I ranted to the customer service, theassistant manager and the supervisor... they conceded that addressees likeme complained bitterly ALL the time... I think the reason that they charge the addressee instead of the shipper, isthat the shipper would go elsewhere if they got hit with the fee upfront. Sorry for the continued rant, but this is good info to know... I'm going to check out Fedex prices... surf's up! Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Alan Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Brett and Others, UPS is famous for gouging the snot out of you if you live in Canada andreceive anything from the USA. They call it brokerage fees. I remember once that a $12.00 package costmeabout $30.00 in brokerage fees. When I was living in Nebraska, I had aModel 12 stock broken by UPS. They denied that they did it, even thoughyoucould see the forklift tire tracks on the box and the groove in the guncase. UPS does suck. Purolator is the best within Canada. FEDEX is best goingacross the border. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- earsdws@duke.edu; FlyfishT@aol.com Subject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Well guess what? Now the idiots have lost my package. I am on the phonewith UPS and they are total idiots when it comes tracking and customerrelations. Never again will I use them. Bret from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Mon May 1 11:58:12 2000 Mon, 1 May 2000 12:57:59 -0400 Mon, 1 May 2000 12:57:19 -0400 Rod Makers Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Darrell, I send a lot of things down to the US, and haven't had FEDEX ding me once.Remember the route my stuff takes is from Alberta to the US. UPS Canada as a business runs in the red, except for their brokerage feebusiness. UPS' brokerage business in Canada keeps them in the blackfinancially. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Does FEDEX have that customs fee like UPS? You wouldn't believe howpissedI was!!! Fortunately I had gotten a good enough deal, that I could absorbthe hit, but what a nasty surprise! I ranted to the customer service, theassistant manager and the supervisor... they conceded that addressees likeme complained bitterly ALL the time... I think the reason that they charge the addressee instead of the shipper, isthat the shipper would go elsewhere if they got hit with the fee upfront. Sorry for the continued rant, but this is good info to know... I'm going to check out Fedex prices... surf's up! Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Alan Subject: RE: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Brett and Others, UPS is famous for gouging the snot out of you if you live in Canada andreceive anything from the USA. They call it brokerage fees. I remember once that a $12.00 package costmeabout $30.00 in brokerage fees. When I was living in Nebraska, I had aModel 12 stock broken by UPS. They denied that they did it, even thoughyoucould see the forklift tire tracks on the box and the groove in the guncase. UPS does suck. Purolator is the best within Canada. FEDEX is best goingacross the border. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- earsdws@duke.edu; FlyfishT@aol.com Subject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Well guess what? Now the idiots have lost my package. I am on the phonewith UPS and they are total idiots when it comes tracking and customerrelations. Never again will I use them. Bret from grau@buchlang.com Mon May 1 12:31:35 2000 Subject: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFB3A2.1B5E4520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFB3A2.1B5E4520 here in Switzerland we do not have many experiences with UPS, seems itworks. But mabye UPS pays bad salarys to her employes, who knows. Thecompetition will be always harder and the bosses wan`t pay god salarys - this way the workers do not like her job an do it bad....we have the =sameexperiences on the whole world in different jobs, firms & businesses.. Regards Stefan ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFB3A2.1B5E4520 here in Switzerland we do not = experiences with UPS, seems itworks. But mabye UPS pays badsalarys = employes, who knows. Thecompetition will be always harder and the = wan`t pay god salarys -this way the workers do not like her job an = bad....we have the sameexperiences on the whole world in different = businesses..RegardsStefan ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFB3A2.1B5E4520-- from Canerods@aol.com Mon May 1 13:57:18 2000 Subject: FWD: Rod ID needed All: This was posted to the FF@ list-serv - can anyone help him ID this rod?John Cooper are you still on the list? Don Burns conrad.forest@wilket.co.nz (conrad.forest@wilket.co.nz) G'Day, Happy May Day, solidarity to the workers and all that ..... yeah right .... :^( All it means to me is that fishing season closed yesterday, I had a goodone,but winter has arrived. After listening to you guys, I'm thinking about bamboorod projects for the next dark months, and today in a junk shop, I saw a likelycandidate for refinishing .... Split cane, marked ' Tongasand' .... good nick but I immediately thought ....Japanese .... what the heck is 'Tongasand' ! ? Close examination of the reel seat showed, in *tiny* hand punched letters ..... J.J.S. Walker-Bamfton & Co., Makers, Alawick . Thats' as close as I couldmake out. Reel seat is machined metal, ferrules and guides are brass. Notknowing a heck of a lot about the time, it was intersesting to note thatthe ferrulescontected " bayonet " mounting style. I'd be greatful for any info as to whether it is worth going back for a second look.Replies to the list, or to me at ... conrad.forest@clear.net.nz ... not to the aboveaddress. Thanks & Cheers ..... CB>> from brookie@frii.com Mon May 1 14:04:16 2000 Subject: Re: FWD: Rod ID needed At 02:56 PM 5/1/2000 EDT, you wrote:All: This was posted to the FF@ list-serv - can anyone help him ID this rod?John Cooper are you still on the list? Don Burns Don, I posted same to RodMakers earlier today, have had several responses,to include one from Ian Kearney down in NZ who was most helpful ! suecolorado from briansr@point-net.com Mon May 1 16:11:06 2000 Subject: RE UPS sucks -maybe StephanAt least in Switzerland your Air Traffic Controllers are paid handsomelyandare treated with respect and as humans by their employer, not as weare,here in Canada.In Montreal we've lost 6 controllers to Switzerland andthat figure will rise by a few more. Woops my blood pressure isincreasing,Ii better not rant any more,Brian from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Mon May 1 16:25:44 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Mon, 1 May 2000 22:25:18 +0100 Subject: Re: Friend in NZ curious about 'found' cane Sue, Walker Bampton were a reputable British company based in Alnwick,Northumberland.I beleieve they were ex Hardy employees( makes sense asHardy were and still are in Alnwick!)who set up a rod and reel buildingoperation themselves.The ferrules you described were the patented Hardylockfast ferrule.If my memory serves me correct Walket Bampton were inexistence from the early thirties until around 1968.Eventually they werebought out by that famous company Farlows of Pall Mall.Funny how thingschange, Farlows have this year been bought out by the same companywhichnow owns Hardy!I know of one ex Walker Bampton employee who is still building andrepairing rods, and he still lives in Alnwick.Walker Bamton rods are still quite common here in the UK and one wasadvertised last month for sale by a trader ( reportedly in goodcondition )for £75 sterling for an 8'6" rod.Trust the above is helpful......regards, Paul. sue kreutzer wrote: Seems like some of us just bop into the RodM. list now and again to askyour input and comments on 'found' cane ... you know the kind, found in anantique/junk shop or garage sale. Just rec'd such a request from afriend in New Zealand, and I/he would appreciate your comments ....privateemail would be great and I'll forward comments on to him, thanks inadvance : and today in a junk shop, I saw a likelycandidate for refinishing .... Split cane, marked ' Tongasand' .... good nick but I immediatelythought ... Japanese .... what the heck is 'Tongasand' ! ? Close examination of the reel seat showed, in *tiny* hand punchedletters .... J.J.S. Walker-Bamfton & Co., Makers, Alawick . Thats' as closeas I could make out. Reel seat is machined metal, ferrules and guidesare brass. Not knowing a heck of a lot about the time, it wasintersesting to note that the ferrules contected " bayonet " mountingstyle. suecolorado from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon May 1 20:12:00 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 1 May 2000 20:12:54 -0500 Subject: Fw: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it When you make your living depending on delivery of hand made products,youlearn in a hurry what costs you dearly ! Some items I restore, would belikelosing a Garrison, or PHY ! I ship to every country except Russia and theUkraine, and (knock on wood) have lost not one item yet. I use the USPS exclusively. How you pack things means a great deal inreceiving good delivery ! GMA----- Original Message -----From: ; Cc: Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 10:11 AMSubject: Re: U.P.S. SUCKS/They've lost it Well guess what? Now the idiots have lost my package. I am on thephonewith UPS and they are total idiots when it comes tracking andcustomerrelations. Never again will I use them. Bret from grau@buchlang.com Mon May 1 23:36:39 2000 Subject: Walker bampton boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0030_01BFB3FD.F21ABE80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BFB3FD.F21ABE80 WB was foundet in the fifties and existed until the 80`ties. from the =fifties to the 70`ties they made canerods. Her blanks was made from =Farlows, WB put the rings, ferrules, hardware etc. on. A speciality of =WB was "kit rods", mabye your rod is such a kit, i do not find a name =similar to yours in my list. In the later decade of WB they made =expensive carbon rods, also hexagonal in form, named the hexagraph, fly =and also carp-rods. The collectors-prices/worth for a WB canerod are approx. $ 80 for =excellent condition. RegardsStefan ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BFB3FD.F21ABE80 WB was foundet in the fifties and existed until the = from the fifties to the 70`ties they made canerods. Her blanks was made= Farlows, WB put the rings, ferrules, hardware etc. on. A speciality of = "kit rods", mabye your rod is such a kit, i do not find a name similar = in my list. In the later decade of WB they made expensive carbon rods, = hexagonal in form, named the hexagraph, fly and also =carp-rods. The collectors-prices/worth for a WB canerod are = RegardsStefan ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BFB3FD.F21ABE80-- from irish-george@pacbell.net Tue May 2 00:31:51 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: UPS Sucks anglport@con2.com The USPS certainly has its moments, both good and bad. At its best, I've even received a package from overseas that was markedasbeing received in the US with most of the address label missing. All thatwas left of it was my complete name and the first letter (luckily, a"Y"...not too many of those) of the city I live in at the time. At its worst, I bought a pamphlet on eBay and paid for priority mail. Theseller decided to pocket the difference and send it to me at "book rate".Well, book rate took over 5 weeks!!! (The seller didn't lie about when itwas mailed...I checked the postmark.) George ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: UPS Sucks Guess the postal letter carriers walk on water! That's good to know, I've been scared off from attempting to ship byUSPSsurface mail to asia or europe which on their web site quotes 4-6weeks... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2000 4:03 AM Cc: irish-george@pacbell.net; dickay@alltel.net; Rodmakers ListSubject: Re: UPS Sucks Art: Last year I bought a really heavy book from Philadelphia, chosingUSPS surface mail at $9.95 to Sydney, Australia. Charged to a creditcard, it was in my New South Wales letterbox five days later. Sean Art Port wrote: All,I've been trying to sit this one out, but I think I can save youmoneywith a cautionary tale of the USPS.On SEVERAL occasions, I've refused to pay extra for 3-daydeliveryorother "speedy service" since I didn't need the article immediately andinEVERY instance I got delivery within the "speeded-up" window withoutpayingthe premium. I've said to my wife that I certainly would have beenhappywith their service if I had paid that premium!This may only work in megalopol(i)(?) like the Northeastcorridor(where Iam currently trapped as an indentured servant *G*), but it may beworthtrying where you are if you're not in an absolute panic over havingsomething.Art At 10:15 PM 04/29/2000 -0700, irish-george wrote:always ASK if the address you are sending to is served by nextdaydelivery, even some major technology centers AREN'T.) George ----- ListSent: Friday, April 28, 2000 5:55 PM Subject: UPS SucksWhat's wrong with this??? Dick Fuhrman from irish-george@pacbell.net Tue May 2 00:36:33 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0069_01BFB3BD.E4F956C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BFB3BD.E4F956C0 I also notice a big difference in UPS East of the Mississippi vs West of =the Mississippi. West of the Mississippi, they are a bunch of clowns =who seem to screw up about 1/3-1/2 the time. East of the Mississippi =(22 years), I never had a problem...not even once. I really don't have =a clue why the big difference. George Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 10:19 AMSubject: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? here in Switzerland we do not have many experiences with UPS, seems itworks. But mabye UPS pays bad salarys to her employes, who knows. Thecompetition will be always harder and the bosses wan`t pay god salarys =-this way the workers do not like her job an do it bad....we have the =sameexperiences on the whole world in different jobs, firms & businesses.. Regards Stefan ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BFB3BD.E4F956C0 I also notice a big difference in UPS East of the = don't have a clue why the big difference. George ----- Original Message ----- grau@buchlang.com Makers Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 =10:19 AMSubject: UPS sucks - mabye also= salary(s)?here in Switzerland we do not have experiences with UPS, seems itworks. But mabye UPS pays bad = employes, who knows. Thecompetition will be always harder and the= wan`t pay god salarys -this way the workers do not like her job an = bad....we have the sameexperiences on the whole world in different = businesses..RegardsStefan ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BFB3BD.E4F956C0-- from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Tue May 2 07:32:35 2000 with ESMTPA id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, 2 May 2000 08:32:31 EDT Subject: Wood Planing Forms Does anyone know of a maker of wooden planing forms for sale to theneophyte.Thanks in advance,Jim Tjwt4639@rit.edu from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Tue May 2 07:52:24 2000 FAA11310 ESMTP for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Tue, 2 May 2000 05:53:13 -0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: Corbette Lake Lord have mercy, I think that I have died and gone to bamboo flyrod heaven.Not only did I get to talk bamboowith Hoagy Carmichael and not only did I get to SEE a real Garrison andCarmichael but I actually got to castthem both. My got I think I got moist. Hoagy brought a Garrison 209 thatMr. Garrison made but also a Garrison212e that he had made. Boy what sweet rods. Bob Millward gave a talk on bamboo stiffness and strength and low andbehold Mr. Garrison was right on themoney especially with node staggering. Millward and a Professor from U.C.Berkley did laboratory tests andfound out that there is a 10% drop in bending stiffness at the nodes andwith Garrisons staggering there isonly 10% drop, with 2.2.2 there is 20% and with 3.3.3. there is 30% drop.With the Garrison stagger there is 5un-noded section surrounding each node and pretty much negates the nodesweakness. The also found that tonkinsmodules of elasticity drops off dramatically just past 50 thousands underthe rind and also after you get morethat 12 feet up the stalk from the ground. Millward will be publishingthere findings soon. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue May 2 08:11:57 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 2 May 2000 07:59:26 -0500 "Rod Makers" Subject: Re: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? It takes almost 2 weeks for UPS delivery from either coast, but from theWest coast it can take 4 weeks at times ! Crazy ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? I also notice a big difference in UPS East of the Mississippi vs West of theMississippi. West of the Mississippi, they are a bunch of clowns who seemto screw up about 1/3-1/2 the time. East of the Mississippi (22 years), Inever had a problem...not even once. I really don't have a clue why the bigdifference. George----- Original Message -----From: grau@buchlang.com Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 10:19 AMSubject: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? here in Switzerland we do not have many experiences with UPS, seems itworks. But mabye UPS pays bad salarys to her employes, who knows. Thecompetition will be always harder and the bosses wan`t pay god salarys - this way the workers do not like her job an do it bad....we have the sameexperiences on the whole world in different jobs, firms & businesses.. Regards Stefan from briansr@point-net.com Tue May 2 08:40:18 2000 Tue, 2 May 2000 09:40:07 -0400 "'rodmakers'" Subject: Re: Corbette Lake Hi PatMany thank's for your post.Unlike a lot of posts ,good rock solid info.So wemissed Corbett Lake again eh?May the Garrison basher's cringe from under their rocks*G*Bob is veryluckyto have U.C.'s labs available.Most of us that are experimenting are doing it"by the seats of our pants",and wondering if we ARE right!! As for themodulus/12ft from ground data,maybe soon builders will be demandingculmswith growers marks on themCheers Brian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Corbette Lake Lord have mercy, I think that I have died and gone to bamboo flyrodheaven. Not only did I get to talk bamboo with Hoagy Carmichael and notonlydid I get to SEE a real Garrison and Carmichael but I actually got to castthem both. My got I think I got moist. Hoagy brought a Garrison 209 thatMr.Garrison made but also a Garrison 212e that he had made. Boy what sweetrods. Bob Millward gave a talk on bamboo stiffness and strength and low andbehold Mr. Garrison was right on the money especially with nodestaggering.Millward and a Professor from U.C. Berkley did laboratory tests and foundout that there is a 10% drop in bending stiffness at the nodes and withGarrisons staggering there is only 10% drop, with 2.2.2 there is 20% andwith 3.3.3. there is 30% drop. With the Garrison stagger there is 5 un-nodedsection surrounding each node and pretty much negates the nodesweakness.The also found that tonkins modules of elasticity drops off dramaticallyjust past 50 thousands under the rind and also after you get more that 12feet up the stalk from the ground. Millward will be publishing therefindings soon. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue May 2 09:44:33 2000 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Lacquer I am going to try the "lacquer on the wraps before varnish dipping" method to preserve the wrap colors. Are there any pros and cons to this approach and are there any things I need to watch out for when picking a lacquer (ie. products or preparations to be avoided?)?Any help is appreciated in advance.Thanks.Jon McAnulty from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue May 2 10:30:24 2000 8:39:04 PDT Subject: re: Lacquer Jon, I use Parks Clear Lacquer bought at Fred Meyer, it is the only product I could find in my area. Not even the larger paint stores carry lacqueraround here. Some things I've found is that lacquer preserves the thread color ata much darker tone then latex Flex coat, and it will give you a more vivid color then latex flex coat. You'll get better penetration if you thin the first coat that you brush onto the wraps with some lacquer thinner. Lacquer doesn't adhere to the blank as well as varnish or poly will, but neitherdoes latex flex coat, and if you are dipping a couple of coats or more over the entire rod, the wrap isn't going anywhere. After the first thinned coat I apply multiple full strength coats, followed by a couple of coats ofwhatever finish I'll be dipping. I do this to check for leaks essentially. Periodically a wrap will darken as the finish product finds a breach in the lacquer layer and it's easier to replace at this point then after dipping. Lacquer seems to re-activate itself some when multiple layers areapplied. Watch for an occasional tiny air bubble wanting to form. You won't get the quick build you would get with latex flex coat. It will get tacky pretty quickly, so it's best to apply it smoothly with your brush and then leave it alone. I let each layer dry over night (12+ hrs.), but that is probably longer then necessary. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- I am going to try the "lacquer on the wraps before varnish dipping" method to preserve the wrap colors. Are there any pros and cons to this approach and are there any things I need to watch out for when picking a lacquer (ie. products or preparations to be avoided?)?Any help is appreciated in advance.Thanks.Jon McAnulty from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Tue May 2 11:51:20 2000 JAA29879 ESMTP for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Tue, 2 May 2000 09:51:54 -0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: bamboo Glen Becket from Winston rod co and Andy Royer just got back from Chinaafter having purchased a big shipmentof bamboo that Glen and Andy hand selected. The guys from Winston wereat corbette lake and said the stuff wasoutstanding. Andy said that the bamboo is on the high seas and on its wayto Seattle. As usual I have no tieswith the bamboo other than as a customer. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue May 2 13:34:06 2000 Subject: Bellinger Beveller Guy'sI purchased a Bellinger Rough Out beveller from Russ at G.W twoweeks or so ago, and I wanted to wait until I ran a few rods before I posted my opinion. The rough out beveller is an outstanding machine it is very fastand accurate[.005"] The time savings alone is well worth the investment. It is very well made and I would recommend to anyone making more than acouple of rods a year, or to all that dislike roughing by hand.B.T.W it is also very easy to operate. I have no interest financial or otherwise just a very nice machine.Joseph A Perrigo II from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Tue May 2 13:46:44 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Tue, 2 May 2000 19:46:36 +0100 Subject: Re: Walker bampton Stefan,Your information re Walker Bampton is incorrect.You are getting confused between Walker Bampton and Bruce and Walker!Walker Bampton never did kit rods , carp rods or hexagraphs.Walker Bampton only made cane fly and spinning rods up until they ceasedproduction circa 1968.They were latterly owned by Farlows of Pall Mall for whom WalkerBamptonmade cane rods.Bruce and Walker and still producing high quality graphite rods and carprods.I think the term hexagraph is even a Bruce and Walker registeredname.They have now stopped making hexagraphs as the graphite blanksdelaminated at the spigot ferrule connections......long live metalferrules!Trust this sets the record straight.........Regards........Paul grau@buchlang.com wrote: WB was foundet in the fifties and existed until the 80`ties. > from thefifties to the 70`ties they made canerods. Her blanks was made fromFarlows, WB put the rings, ferrules, hardware etc. on. A speciality ofWB was "kit rods", mabye your rod is such a kit, i do not find a namesimilar to yours in my list. In the later decade of WB they madeexpensive carbon rods, also hexagonal in form, named the hexagraph,fly and also carp-rods. The collectors-prices/worth for a WB canerod are approx. $ 80 forexcellent condition. RegardsStefan from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue May 2 14:01:40 2000 12:10:23 PDT Subject: re: Corbette Lake Patrick, Do you know what publication this information will be detailed? Those are interesting test results. Was the 10% drop in bending stiffness together? If it were for a single tapered strip then the 3x3 would beabout 5% rather then 30%, right?. However if a single node lined up with 5clear strips did result in a 10% reduction in stiffness for the the rod at that point, then that would imply that 3 nodes lined up would be prettydramatic, as you indicated. That would result in quite the hinge, which I've never noticed on the 3x3 rods I've cast. I may not understand what exactly is meant by bending stiffness. I look forward to reading about it. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- 5:52 AM: Lord have mercy, I think that I have died and gone to bamboo flyrod heaven. Not only did I get to talk bamboo with Hoagy Carmichael and not only did I get to SEE a real Garrison and Carmichael but I actually got to cast them both. My got I think I got moist. Hoagy brought a Garrison 209 that Mr. Garrison made but also a Garrison 212e that he had made. Boy what sweetrods. Bob Millward gave a talk on bamboo stiffness and strength and low andbehold Mr. Garrison was right on the money especially with node staggering.Millward and a Professor from U.C. Berkley did laboratory tests and foundout that there is a 10% drop in bending stiffness at the nodes and with Garrisons staggering there is only 10% drop, with 2.2.2 there is 20% and with 3.3.3. there is 30% drop. With the Garrison stagger there is 5 un-noded section surrounding each node and pretty much negates the nodes weakness. Thealso found that tonkins modules of elasticity drops off dramatically just past50 thousands under the rind and also after you get more that 12 feet up the stalk from the ground. Millward will be publishing there findings soon. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Tue May 2 14:33:35 2000 MAA02416 ESMTP; Tue, 2 May 2000 12:34:10 -0700 (5.5.2650.21) "'mcdowellc@lanecc.edu'" Subject: RE: Corbette Lake Milward indicated that the published information would be coming outtowards the end of the year. They took aprime culm, cut uniform width strips, thicknessed them all the same andmeasured how much pull to break thepower fibers from three different layers within in the strips. They alsodid deflection testing to destructionwith measured lengths and measured the pull it took and the amount ofdeflection and how much force to break.I just reread my notes and the quote was "bending strengths drop by 15%at the adjacent node nest to a stripand looses 6.6% in tensile strength, for each 10 thousands if you sand theoutside surface". That was thetensile strength measurement. The conclusion reached was that the bestconfiguration for a rod was nodeless,hollow built and made from the 1st 12 feet of the stock measured fromthe ground up. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: CHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL[SMTP:mcdowellc@lanecc.edu] Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 12:10 PM Subject: re: Corbette Lake Patrick, Do you know what publication this information will be detailed? Those are interesting test results. Was the 10% drop in bendingstiffness together? If it were for a single tapered strip then the 3x3 would beabout 5% rather then 30%, right?. However if a single node lined up with 5clear strips did result in a 10% reduction in stiffness for the the rod at that point, then that would imply that 3 nodes lined up would be prettydramatic, as you indicated. That would result in quite the hinge, which I've never noticed on the 3x3 rods I've cast. I may not understand what exactly is meant by bending stiffness. I look forward to reading about it. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- From: "Coffey, Patrick W" , on 5/2/005:52 AM: Lord have mercy, I think that I have died and gone to bamboo flyrodheaven. Not only did I get to talk bamboo with Hoagy Carmichael and not only didI get to SEE a real Garrison and Carmichael but I actually got to cast them both. My got I think I got moist. Hoagy brought a Garrison 209 that Mr. Garrison made but also a Garrison 212e that he had made. Boy whatsweet rods. Bob Millward gave a talk on bamboo stiffness and strength and low andbehold Mr. Garrison was right on the money especially with node staggering.Millward and a Professor from U.C. Berkley did laboratory tests and found out that there is a 10% drop in bending stiffness at the nodes and with Garrisons staggering there is only 10% drop, with 2.2.2 there is 20% and with 3.3.3. there is 30% drop. With the Garrison stagger there is 5 un-noded section surrounding each node and pretty much negates the nodes weakness. Thealso found that tonkins modules of elasticity drops off dramatically just past50 thousands under the rind and also after you get more that 12 feet up the stalk from the ground. Millward will be publishing there findings soon. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from saweiss@flash.net Tue May 2 15:16:43 2000 Subject: Re: UPS sucks - mabye also the salary(s)? Folks,I think we have all gotten the point about UPS & USPS.Steve from Grhghlndr@aol.com Tue May 2 15:36:50 2000 Subject: Re: UPS sucks - It made it today finally rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu List, I just got my order from REC today and I couldn't wait to see what thecork was like. So far the cork is some of the best I have seen. I just randomly reached into the bag and grabbed some and each time I do it is all verytight grained and very very nice stuff. This is their cork RX extra select. I don't think Iwill have to worry about another source for cork. I am getting ready to place another order for cork here soon because I only got a couple hundred to start with because I wanted to make sure of the quality. I also ordered their UNI FERRULES and they also seem to be of top quality. Doesn't seem to be much in the way of fitting them from what I can tell. I guessit was worth the wait. Bret from piscator@crosswinds.net Tue May 2 16:32:00 2000 (envelope- from piscator@crosswinds.net) Subject: Tony Young Tony, can't send you e-mail. Will you try to contact me off list? Brian from dickay@alltel.net Tue May 2 20:13:18 2000 UAA18201 Subject: Hallelujah boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB471.A9477580" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB471.A9477580 All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailbox this =afternoon. Laying in there in a beautiful white envelope was issue 5/6 =of Volume 1 of The Bamboo Fly Rod. Its only taken a year and four =months to get it. Mark promised it to me earlier this year (January I =think) and its finally here. I might even subscribe for another year =now. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB471.A9477580 let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB471.A9477580-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue May 2 20:26:27 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 2 May 2000 20:14:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Hallelujah Geez, I sent in my payment for a full subscription. I hope I get one too ! Istill haven't received either back issue I paid in advance for either ! GAM----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hallelujah All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailbox this afternoon.Laying in there in a beautiful white envelope was issue 5/6 of Volume 1 ofThe Bamboo Fly Rod. Its only taken a year and four months to get it. Markpromised it to me earlier this year (January I think) and its finally here.I might even subscribe for another year now. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue May 2 20:33:39 2000 Tue, 2 May 2000 22:33:06 -0300 Subject: Re: Hallelujah boundary="------------8E6B2C88813EBB427518CC90" --------------8E6B2C88813EBB427518CC90 That's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized that is an old copy.Here I thought for an instant that they were up and running! Bummer! Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailbox thisafternoon. Laying in there in a beautiful white envelope was issue5/6 of Volume 1 of The Bamboo Fly Rod. Its only taken a year and fourmonths to get it. Mark promised it to me earlier this year (January Ithink) and its finally here. I might even subscribe for another yearnow. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` --------------8E6B2C88813EBB427518CC90 That's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized that is an old copy.Here I thought for an instant that they were up and running! Bummer! ShawnDick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: in a beautiful white envelope was issue 5/6 of Volume 1 of The BambooFly promised it to me earlier this year (January I think) and its finally know.TightLinesDick Fuhrman` --------------8E6B2C88813EBB427518CC90-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue May 2 20:36:34 2000 E-Mail VirusWall NT); Wed, 03 May 200009:34:22 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Rodmakers Subject: RE: Wood Planing Forms Hi Jim,why not make them youself? I managed to do it for an investment ofabout Aus$20 and a day of my time and looking back I'm glad I did. Hell, ifI can do it, anyone can. Besides saving some money I had some fun andlearned a few things as well. This stuff is not rocket science and it won'tblow up in your face if your methods are a bit unorthodox. Look on TonyYoung's web site for the instructions and just go for it. The only thing Imight do differently would be to scrape out the groove using the Penrosemethod rather than plane it. Good luck Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Wood Planing Forms Does anyone know of a maker of wooden planing forms for sale to theneophyte.Thanks in advance,Jim Tjwt4639@rit.edu from dickay@alltel.net Tue May 2 20:38:56 2000 UAA25052; Subject: Re: Hallelujah boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB475.44A99140" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB475.44A99140 Shawn, Its new to me. I've been looking for it on the magazine rack at =the local fly shop and even looked when I was in the Washington, D.C. =area for Easter. Haven't been able to find it. Now I can read all of =the articles. And my collection is complete to date.Dick Fuhrman Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:28 PMSubject: Re: Hallelujah That's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized that is an old =copy. Here I thought for an instant that they were up and running! = = All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailbox this =afternoon. Laying in there in a beautiful white envelope was issue 5/6 =of Volume 1 of The Bamboo Fly Rod. Its only taken a year and four =months to get it. Mark promised it to me earlier this year (January I =think) and its finally here. I might even subscribe for another year =now. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB475.44A99140 rack at the local fly shop and even looked when I was in the Washington, = Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers List Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 =9:28 PMSubject: Re: HallelujahThat's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized = old copy. Here I thought for an instant that they were up and running! = = ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB475.44A99140-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Wed May 3 04:08:00 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Cork group order? What ever happened to the group cork order... did that ever happen? A wholesaler is selling cork in bags of 1000 for 55 cents per ring. Thequality varies from extra select, Flor, Flor+ and five star (his grading).He says it works out to about 5% - 5 star, 25% Flor+, 30% Flor and the restextra select. It's 1/4" ID I think it's 1.25" OD. I looked at his cork and the extra select was pretty good, perfect forrestorations... it's probably better quality than most vintage rods used.The rest of it looked fine for new rods and special rods. Delivery time is about one week. It's already enroute to him. Seller is areliable source. Minimum 500 rings/person. If anyone is interested indoinga group order with me, please contact me off list. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed May 3 05:51:40 2000 Wed, 3 May 2000 07:51:06 -0300 Subject: Re: Hallelujah boundary="------------5D6DD72B388AA7883AB22E21" --------------5D6DD72B388AA7883AB22E21 I have had issue 5/6 vol. 1 for over a year now! I have been waiting issue 5/6 vol. 1 which was sept/oct and nov/dec 1998 with articles onDon Anderson and Joe Arguello? Sorry, Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: Shawn, Its new to me. I've been looking for it on the magazine rackat the local fly shop and even looked when I was in the Washington,D.C. area for Easter. Haven't been able to find it. Now I can readall of the articles. And my collection is complete to date.DickFuhrman ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers ListSent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:28 PMSubject: Re: HallelujahThat's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized that isan old copy. Here I thought for an instant that they were upand running! Bummer! Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailboxthis afternoon. Laying in there in a beautiful whiteenvelope was issue 5/6 of Volume 1 of The Bamboo Fly Rod.Its only taken a year and four months to get it. Markpromised it to me earlier this year (January I think) andits finally here. I might even subscribe for another yearnow. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` --------------5D6DD72B388AA7883AB22E21 been waiting for 7/8 or whatever is supposed to be next. I f we are talkingabout issue 5/6 vol. 1 which was sept/oct and nov/dec 1998 with articleson Don Anderson and Joe Arguello? Sorry, ShawnDick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: looking for it on the magazine rack at the local fly shop and even looked ----- Original Message ----- From:ShawnPineo Cc: RodmakersList Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:28PM Subject: Re: Hallelujah copy. Here I thought for an instant that they were up and running! Bummer! ShawnDick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: in a beautiful white envelope was issue 5/6 of Volume 1 of The BambooFly promised it to me earlier this year (January I think) and its finally know.TightLinesDick Fuhrman` --------------5D6DD72B388AA7883AB22E21-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 3 05:52:08 2000 Wed, 3 May 2000 18:52:00 +0800 Wed, 3 May 2000 18:51:58 +0800 Subject: APB on Brian Creek Sorry to all on the list for this but I can't get you either Brian. I justreceived a bounced message from your address too.Try getting me via my page, I just tried it and it works from here. My linkis on the bottom of this message. Tony At 05:23 PM 5/2/00 -0400, Brian D. Creek wrote:Tony, can't send you e- mail. Will you try to contact me off list? Brian /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed May 3 07:23:57 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Wed, 3 May 2000 07:25:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Hallelujah That's the only issue I've received too. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Hallelujah I have had issue 5/6 vol. 1 for over a year now! I have been waiting issue 5/6 vol. 1 which was sept/oct and nov/dec 1998 with articles onDon Anderson and Joe Arguello? Sorry, Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: Shawn, Its new to me. I've been looking for it on the magazine rackat the local fly shop and even looked when I was in the Washington,D.C. area for Easter. Haven't been able to find it. Now I can readall of the articles. And my collection is complete to date.DickFuhrman ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers ListSent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:28 PMSubject: Re: HallelujahThat's just cruel! I got all exited till I realized that isan old copy. Here I thought for an instant that they were upand running! Bummer! Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: All: I couldn't believe my eyes when I opened my mailboxthis afternoon. Laying in there in a beautiful whiteenvelope was issue 5/6 of Volume 1 of The Bamboo Fly Rod.Its only taken a year and four months to get it. Markpromised it to me earlier this year (January I think) andits finally here. I might even subscribe for another yearnow. Had to let you all know.Tight LinesDick Fuhrman` from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed May 3 19:25:10 2000 Subject: testing 123.... Is the list down again?? from richjez@enteract.com Wed May 3 19:50:34 2000 (envelope- from richjez@enteract.com) Subject: Re: testing 123.... boundary="=====================_4185143==_.ALT" --=====================_4185143==_.ALT Got your test. I was wondering too.Rich At 09:20 PM 5/3/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Is the list down again?? *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>-- =====================_4185143==_.ALT Got your test. I was wondering too.Rich Is the list down again?? *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_4185143==_.ALT-- from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Wed May 3 20:05:11 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Thu, 4 May 2000 01:04:37 +0000 iank@nelson.planet.org.nz,earsdws@duke.edu, FlyfishT@aol.com, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Rant away! One of these days, Joe... One of these days! Joe C. Byrd wrote: If you do happen to end up in the lower 48 stop by for a single malt.Works MUCH better than valium and it's non-prescription! (Tastesprettydamned good too!) I'm in the Federal Republic of New Jersey. Dennis: When are you ever going to come down here to the Volunteer State andhavesome Hillbilly Scotch with me? I have a quart with some peachesmarinatingin it just awaiting your arrival. Joe from edriddle@mindspring.com Wed May 3 20:14:23 2000 Subject: Re: testing 123.... boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003B_01BFB544.1885F8E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BFB544.1885F8E0 Rich:Mighty quiet aint it..that's still a real tight loop you throwing there. =:- )Ed-----Original Message-----From: Rich Jezioro RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 7:51 PMSubject: Re: testing 123.... Got your test. I was wondering too.Rich At 09:20 PM 5/3/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote: Is the list down again?? *________________________________)/ @/||/____/||_________________________________________ ))):> > == ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BFB544.1885F8E0 Rich:Mightyquiet = still a real tight loop you throwing there. :-)Ed -----Original = <nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca&g= RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= <RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu= Wednesday, May 03, 2000 7:51 PMSubject: Re: 123....Got your test. I was = wrote: = = = ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BFB544.1885F8E0-- from CCGGLOBAL@aol.com Wed May 3 20:43:16 2000 Subject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, what taper would you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an ideal small stream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from CCGGLOBAL@aol.com Wed May 3 20:46:52 2000 Subject: Varnish and Guides Rodmakers: Help !. What is the prevailing opinion, Do you varnish the bamboo blank, then put on the guides and wraps ?, or Do you put on theguides and wraps and varnish the whole package ? Thanks for your help ! Bill Campbell : e-mail : ccgglobal@aol.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed May 3 20:54:12 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Wed, 3 May 2000 20:55:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods PHY Midge. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, whattaperwould you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an idealsmallstream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from channer1@rmi.net Wed May 3 21:39:49 2000 Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods CCGGLOBAL@aol.com wrote: Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, whattaperwould you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an idealsmallstream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.comBill;That's easy, the Midge, of courseJohn from horsesho@ptd.net Wed May 3 21:47:45 2000 0000 (204.186.33.29) Subject: Re: Varnish and Guides CCGGLOBAL@aol.com wrote: Rodmakers: Help !. What is the prevailing opinion, Do you varnish thebamboo blank, then put on the guides and wraps ?, or Do you put on theguidesand wraps and varnish the whole package ? Thanks for your help ! Bill Campbell : e-mail : ccgglobal@aol.comI rub on a coat of Tung oil VARNISH (Waterlox brand), let dry,rub with#0000 steel wool, Install Ferrules, Seat, cork rings(grip) guides/silk,3 coats on wraps than 3 thin coats Spar Varnish (Pratt & Lambert #61 orVarmor poly) on whole rod (Dip). Marty from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Wed May 3 22:53:34 2000 Subject: Bamboo Rodmaking Classes Is anyone aware of a rodbuilding class in Western Washington? I'minterested in taking a class this summer or fall. Thanks from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed May 3 23:43:29 2000 21:52:38 PDT Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods I've been using a little 6' 4 wt. made from the 472Dx Thramer taper formuch of my small stream fishing. Ithas a sweet medium action at 15'-35', and will do a great lazy sidearmroll cast. It is listed at theRodmakers site. Also the PY Midge from the Rodmakers site, as mentioned definition, although it does have an attitude and will lay line out there onthe bigger waters when calledupon. I'm just finishing up a 6'8" F.E. Thomas 3 wt. taper from JackHowell's book, but haven't cast it yet,although I've heard good things about it from many others. This one sportsfull mid wraps so that may stiffenthe action some. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Subject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, what taper would you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an ideal small stream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Wed May 3 23:57:24 2000 E-Mail VirusWall NT); Thu, 04 May 200012:54:21 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Small stream Classic rods Hi Chris,I'd be really interested to hear how the F.E. Thomas 3 wt.performs. Cheers Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods I've been using a little 6' 4 wt. made from the 472Dx Thramer taper formuchof my small stream fishing. It has a sweet medium action at 15'-35', andwill do a great lazy sidearm roll cast. It is listed at the Rodmakers site.Also the PY Midge from the Rodmakers site, as mentioned by others, fitstheshort and sweet definition, although it does have an attitude and will layline out there on the bigger waters when called upon. I'm just finishing upa 6'8" F.E. Thomas 3 wt. taper from Jack Howell's book, but haven't cast ityet, although I've heard good things about it from many others. This onesports full mid wraps so that may stiffen the action some. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Subject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, what taper would you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an ideal small stream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from irish-george@pacbell.net Thu May 4 01:33:51 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Gary Howells boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00F2_01BFB557.9F043AE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00F2_01BFB557.9F043AE0 Today I received Martin Keane's catalog #80. In it, he says that Gary =Howells passed away on April 10th. Does anyone have any information on=this? In the UPS thread I mentioned the "lost" Howells rod that I had =purchased last winter. What I didn't say in that thread was that the =workmanship was impeccable down to the last detail...it is the only rod =I own that I can say that about. I hope that someday I can make a rod =anywhere close to that one. George ------=_NextPart_000_00F2_01BFB557.9F043AE0 = information on this? In the UPS thread I mentioned the "lost" Howells rod= workmanship was impeccable down to the last detail...it is the only rod = close to that one. George ------=_NextPart_000_00F2_01BFB557.9F043AE0-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Thu May 4 05:57:11 2000 (envelope- from mrmac@tcimet.net) (Win98; I) Subject: Rayon thread? While spinning my wheels waiting on kids at the mall last night, Idrifted into the fabric shop to see if, on a longshot, they might havesilk thread. Nope. But, there *was* some interesting Rayon threadwhich was like the hard to find silk jasper, but in a whole bunch ofchoices for color combinations, and a couple that were like rainbowthread of varying colors. There were two black and whites that lookedreal sharp, but slightly different. So, I picked up a couple spools todink with. I know it's not purist traditional, but there were some realnice colors to choose from. Thread weight was listed as 35 wt.Whatever that translates into as far as 0, 00, etc I don't know. Anyone tried rayon before? Does it do better with color preserver, orwith varnish straightaway? Any particular problems with it used forguides? TIA, regards to all, mac from petermckean@netspace.net.au Thu May 4 06:36:21 2000 (envelope- from petermckean@netspace.net.au) VAA19507 Subject: soaking bamboo boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB60F.E570C1C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB60F.E570C1C0 I am a newcomer to building bamboo, and so far have produced only eight =rods. Up until this I have done all the preparation of the cane strips =using a block plane; even with Hock irons, that represents an awful lot =of sharpening. I do not really want to start milling, as find a lot of = So, on my current project I am soaking the cane strips prior to planing =the non-tapered strips, and it seems to work a treat; have finished the =butt section and am about to start on the twelve tip strips. These have just been split and trued up, no node pressing or =straightening done yet. They have been soaking now for 36 hours, so =there are quite a few hours work left to do on them before they go to =the oven. Can anybody tell me whether there is any practical limit to how long I =can leave them soaking without damaging the cane? Can I just pull them =out one at a time, sraighten, node press, and plane the 60-degree =angles, which might mean leaving the last of them soak for maybe =another 2 or 3 days, or will that cause problems? Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB60F.E570C1C0 I am a newcomer to building bamboo,and = produced only eight rods. Up until this I have done all the preparation = cane strips using a block plane; even with Hock irons, that represents = lot of sharpening. I do not really want to start milling, as find a lot = So, on my current project I am soaking= strips prior to planing the non-tapered strips, and it seems to work a = strips. These have just been split and trued = pressing or straightening done yet. They have been soaking now for 36 = there are quite a few hours work left to do on them before they go to = oven. Can anybody tell me whether there is = limit to how long I can leave them soaking without damaging the cane? = just pull them out one at a time, sraighten, node press, and plane the = or 3 days, or will that cause problems? Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB60F.E570C1C0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu May 4 06:51:49 2000 Subject: T&T Commemorative Rods Hi all,I am looking for pictures of T&T Commemorative rods from 1986and 1988. I contacted T&T and got no response so now I am going to youguys. If someone has pics they could scan and send me (preferably) orknow where I could get these photos it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks, Shawn from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Thu May 4 07:15:40 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Thu, 4 May 2000 12:15:03 +0000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Peter, I leave my strips in the soak right up to the time I finish withprliminary planing, just before I heat treat. When I have the stripplaned I let them dry out a few days before heat treating and finalplaning. No problems. Your approach will work fine. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO petermckean wrote: I am a newcomer to building bamboo, and so far have produced onlyeight rods. Up until this I have done all the preparation of the canestrips using a block plane; even with Hock irons, that represents anawful lot of sharpening. I do not really want to start milling, asfind a lot of satisfaction doing it by hand. So, on my current project I am soaking the cane strips prior toplaning the non-tapered strips, and it seems to work a treat; havefinished the butt section and am about to start on the twelve tipstrips. These have just been split and trued up, no node pressing orstraightening done yet. They have been soaking now for 36 hours, sothere are quite a few hours work left to do on them before they go tothe oven. Can anybody tell me whether there is any practical limit to how long Ican leave them soaking without damaging the cane? Can I just pull themout one at a time, sraighten, node press, and plane the 60-degreeangles, which might mean leaving the last of them soak for maybeanother 2 or 3 days, or will that cause problems? Peter from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Thu May 4 07:19:53 2000 Subject: VIRUS WARNING To all...... A new virus has arrived. "I LOVE YOU" is the name of the devil.It has made most of Outlook Express user in Norway infected. It destroys all image files on the disk. WARNING, WARNING, this is serious shit!!!! regardsdanny from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Thu May 4 07:29:09 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forRODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, 4 May 2000 08:27:37 Subject: RE: Small stream Classic rods RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu I built two 3 wts this past winter: the F.E. Thomas 3 wt and the Heddon 7ft 3/4 wt, both from Howell's book. My brother-in-law turned 40 this pastMarch and I had mentioned that he could cast both and select the one hewanted. He did so and jumped on the F.E. Thomas. I had a chance to fish itone day before handing it over and it is really a very nice rod. Very crispand precise. Throws tight loops and can be called upon to throw a long linewhen needed. It also roll casts well, which was a bit of a suprise. I haven't fished the Heddon yet but, from casting it in the park, it isn'ta DT3 wt. Looks like it will need a DT4 or maybe even a WF 5. The DT3 wtline just didn't load it enough for fishing normal distances. Still lookslike a nice rod but definitely not a 3 wt. Hope this helps, Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu MichaelSent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 12:53 AM Subject: RE: Small stream Classic rods Hi Chris,I'd be really interested to hear how the F.E. Thomas 3 wt.performs. Cheers MikeBill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from Bamboomaker@aol.com Thu May 4 07:34:45 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Peter, I accidentally forgot about a group of split strips and left them soaking about a week. The water had a ripe odor to it, but the strips were justfine and planed well. I now leave strips to soak for about 24-48 hours. I doadd a couple of drops of bleach into the tube to keep my soaking apparatus from becoming a petri dish. Best regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, M.D.Rochester, MN from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Thu May 4 07:35:16 2000 2000 05:35:13 PDT Subject: Tsuruya Rod I've a friend who has her grandfather's fly rod, aWWII vintage rod with the name Tsuruya on it. Doesanyone know anything about this name? Quality? Worth? Thanks. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Thu May 4 09:04:17 2000 Subject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers Bill-PHY Midge or Wayne's version from his book (pg. 220).If you wantsomethinga little longer/heavier the Driggs at 7'2" and 5 wt is a great rod. Best, Dennis from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu May 4 10:22:02 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Thu, 4 May 2000 10:23:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Tsuruya Rod It sounds Japanese to me, and if from the 1940-50 era, the early rods thatcame during the occupation time. I've heard that there were some qualityrods from Japan, but all I've seen were poor. The ferrules are the bestclue. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tsuruya Rod I've a friend who has her grandfather's fly rod, aWWII vintage rod with the name Tsuruya on it. Doesanyone know anything about this name? Quality? Worth? Thanks. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Thu May 4 11:08:26 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Thu, 4 May 2000 17:08:12 +0100 Subject: Re: Rayon thread? Ralph, I wrap vitually all my rods with rayon !I use a brand known as Madeira just as is with no preserver.Madeira manufacture a vast range of threads in some superb colours.Try looking at www.madeira.co.uk for some additional information.Regards......Paul Ralph MacKenzie wrote: While spinning my wheels waiting on kids at the mall last night, Idrifted into the fabric shop to see if, on a longshot, they might havesilk thread. Nope. But, there *was* some interesting Rayon threadwhich was like the hard to find silk jasper, but in a whole bunch ofchoices for color combinations, and a couple that were like rainbowthread of varying colors. There were two black and whites that lookedreal sharp, but slightly different. So, I picked up a couple spools todink with. I know it's not purist traditional, but there were some realnice colors to choose from. Thread weight was listed as 35 wt.Whatever that translates into as far as 0, 00, etc I don't know. Anyone tried rayon before? Does it do better with color preserver, orwith varnish straightaway? Any particular problems with it used forguides? TIA, regards to all, mac from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Thu May 4 12:23:27 2000 with ESMTPA id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, 4 May 2000 13:23:13 EDT Subject: The virus "I Love You" Rodmakers , Flyfish@lsv.uky.edu Being member of lists sure pays off at times. This morning I opened mymail to find a message from Danny Twang on th Rodmakers list warning usall of the "I Love You" virus. I had no sooner closed out his messagewhen I received about 20 "I Love You" messages via internal lists withinmy university environment. The attack has put our mail systems down for6 hours for scrubbing and removing the damage caused by this virus.Danny's warning sure helped my group who are all on the internal listsand who all received the "I Love You" multiple messages. Thanks to thewarning I put out, none opened the message . Thanks Danny,Jim Tefft - Rochester Institute of Technology from mark_lang@tnb.com Thu May 4 12:46:38 2000 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 04 May 2000 12:45:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Virus Warning Folks, Below is a something I received at my corporate office on the virussubject. Mark TNB Broadcast 05/04/00 10:40AM >>>If you receive an email message that has I Love You in the subject line donot open it, contact the helpdeskimmediately. The message contains a virus that is much like the Mellisavirus. For more information on thevirus please go the URL below. http://www.zdnet.com/zdnn/stories/news/0,4586,2561671,00.html?chkpt=zdhpnews01 from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Thu May 4 14:09:36 2000 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id OAA07025 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id OAA19864 for Subject: Smallmouth rod? It feels like summer today and the river was running low over the gravel when I drove by this morning. Does anyone have a smallmouthtaper they would like to recommend? I think I want a 7-wt, not over8ft, for throwing hair bugs, larger streamers, etc. There is a 7.5ft Cross Sylph taper in the archives. Two years ago Iscaled it down 1 weight and it's my favorite all-purpose trout rod. Maybe if I scaled it up 1 wt?.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Thu May 4 14:58:24 2000 Thu, 4 May 2000 15:57:57 -0400 Thu, 4 May 2000 15:57:15 -0400 Subject: RE: T&T Commemorative Rods Shawn, If you can locate any of their older catalogs, you can see a picture in oneof those. I remember one of their catalogs showing about 5 or 6 of themlined up with descriptions. Their commemorative rods were very nice. I'd don't remember the year of that catalog, but it was one I should havekept. Maybe they are in with my yearbooks and college beer mugs. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- Subject: T&T Commemorative Rods Hi all,I am looking for pictures of T&T Commemorative rods from 1986and 1988. I contacted T&T and got no response so now I am going to youguys. If someone has pics they could scan and send me (preferably) orknow where I could get these photos it would be greatly appreciated.Thanks, Shawn from Ivankatt@aol.com Thu May 4 15:02:21 2000 Subject: Re: T&T Commemorative Rods Why in the world would anyone want a T&T Commemorative Rod when onecan own a New Scotland Rod?Bob from ChristopherO@epicrad.com Thu May 4 15:17:32 2000 Subject: small mouth rod try the thramer 678 P (it's either 8 foot for a 6/7 wt line, or 8.6 feet fora 7wt). it casts a long line with authority, but it's slightly heavier thanyour run of the mill 6 wt. the rod i cast belonged to a friend, tim purvis (pro flytyer, and frequentfisher), who aquired it for small mouth fishing on the john day river herein oregon. other thoughts would be the PYH boat or encampment rod (8 ft powerful6/7wt), or the para 16. just a couple of thoughts. tight lines. christopher obuchowski from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Thu May 4 15:56:16 2000 Subject: Rod Database Program Can anyone offer a review of the rodmakers' database shareware programthatwas being offered on the list recently? I started to try to put together myown database using Microsoft Access, and I'd sure like an off- the-rackalternative. from seanmcs@ar.com.au Thu May 4 17:20:07 2000 Fri, 5 May 2000 08:20:57 +1000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Peter and others: I would be interested in opinions on this too. Inoticed that the water in which I soaked some cane for up to a weekbecame quite coloured, and it began to "go off" a bit before I threw it out.So something was passing from the cane into the water. Sean petermckean wrote: Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)Encoding: quoted-printable from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thu May 4 17:34:38 2000 with SMTP (MDaemon.v3.0.3.T) Subject: Re: Rod Database Program Can anyone offer a review of the rodmakers' database shareware programthatwas being offered on the list recently? I started to try to put togethermyown database using Microsoft Access, and I'd sure like an off- the-rackalternative. Seth: I am the program author of Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program. I amsurethat some of the users of the program will speak up and give you theirhonest opinion of the program. I am also forwarding a copy of my reply tothe mailing list for Bamboo Rodmakers Database Program. Some of themembersmight like to respond to you via the Rodmakers List. You can go to http://www.direct-pest.com/brmdp to download the programtosee if you like it. While visiting the webpage subscribe to the mailinglist so that the autoresponder can send you an email with the passwordthatunlocks the installation. I have had a lot of help in developing this program. The Alpha Team whichwas captained by Chris Bogart and the members of the beta team weretrulythe meat and potatoes behind the development of this program. I justplugged the things into the computer. I could not have developed thissoftware without their help. BRMDP took almost 8 months to develop towhere it is now, and we have gone back to the drawing board to add somenewfeatures for the next release. As far as an evaluation, I will not even venture to offer my opinion of thesoftware because I am biased in this case. I'll just sit back and watchwhat the end users have to say about it. That way I can learn more aboutwhere the development might need to go. Thanks for your inquiry Joe from bob@downandacross.com Thu May 4 18:25:21 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Rod Database Program Seth:Save yourself the work and use Joe's program. It had some fantastictapers in there already and he is going to add some features soon. I have found it helpful in keeping track of customer details, rod tapers, and rods I am building. Each of these areas can produce very nice reports. There is just so much detail you can input about a rod, that I think you are best off trying it first. I cannot begin to mention every one, but you can input:rod serial numbers, taper, heat regiment, node staggering, nodeless/traditional construction, hex/quad/penta, guide spacing, varnish, guide types, wrap colors, ferrule types size and position, grip type, reelseat types, etc....And all the time you can track suppliers and the cost of the items if you wish.I have not experienced any glitches in the latest release, so I do not have that fear one has about a beta release. This product is worth a go. I am going to pay for the shareware license when I ship off my latest sale rod this month. It really blew away the customer when I faxed him the data sheet on the rod!I will admit that I have set up a taper calculator in MS Works that produces my Hand Mill figures for me quickly when I input the taper, but I use Joe's program for all my cataloging and love it. I think he may include features like that soon.I will be glad to provide answers to any other questions you might have.Best regards,Bob Maulucci Can anyone offer a review of the rodmakers' database sharewareprogramthatwas being offered on the list recently? I started to try to put togethermyown database using Microsoft Access, and I'd sure like an off-the-rackalternative. Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Thu May 4 18:30:54 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Thu, 4 May 2000 23:30:20 +0000 Subject: Re: Rod Database Program Seth, I had downloaded Joe's database program to my PC at work. I have sincehad to turn the PC in for an "upgrade" to a laptop, but in the shorttime that I was exposed to the program I enjoyed using it. I found itpretty intuitive to use and thought it would be a very useful tool forsomeone like myself who usually writes notes on little snippets of paper(and subsequently loses them!). I also thought it would be especially useful for someone who sells hisrods as a tool for keeping track of clients' purchases and preferences,etc. Give it a try, I don't think you'll be disappointed. Dennis Seth Steinzor wrote: Can anyone offer a review of the rodmakers' database shareware programthatwas being offered on the list recently? I started to try to put togethermyown database using Microsoft Access, and I'd sure like an off- the-rackalternative. from Bamboomaker@aol.com Thu May 4 18:35:05 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Sean, The water will discolor and 'well soaked' cane becomes darker brown incolor (I only flame so I don't know if this applies to blond cane). After roughing the strips, I tend to heat treat them for a longer time in my airgun oven. If you want to 'check' the humidity of your strips after drying, you can put one (or scraps that were soaked and heat treated) in a clear sealedcontainer (a sealed fluorescent tube cover) and put a hygrometer (like the smallones in a humidor) in it and let it equilibrate. If you throw in a couple of cigars, I guess they should stay fine there as well! :.p Purely academic, but since I keep my workshop under 30% humidity, it has taken more than one run through the airgun oven to get my previouslysoaked strips 'dry'. Of course, if I let the bound rough strips sit in my workshop, it will eventually equilibrate over time. So what is 'dry?' I'd be curious to inquire others about this concept. I've read about the carbonizing 'temper' effects on bamboo on the rodmakers articles, and I've heard that some glue quickly after heat treating. Some store their strips in desiccant, and Mr. Cattanach dedicates a page on 'moisture reentry' and recommends using a weight measure. I've built two identical rods, but delayed by one month of moisturereentry. I 'think' that the second one is a bit softer. I know that the second must have been equilibrated to 30% humidity as the planed strips sat in my shop I welcome thoughts on this topic. I haven't checked archives about this topic, but since I was just writing my mind, here it is. Best regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, MD,Rochester, MN from jfreeman@cyberport.com Thu May 4 19:13:49 2000 Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods The PHY Midge is a great rod, but it doesn't like lead. If you think you'regoing to be doing any nymph fishing, look to something a bit longer with abit more spine - say one of Wayne's 7'+ for five weight. If small streamsand dry flies are what you're looking for, the PHY Midge is a delight - Ilove mine. You just can't get much distance with much lead. Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods PHY Midge. GMA----- Original Message -----From: Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:42 PMSubject: Small stream Classic rods Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, whattaperwould you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an idealsmallstream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from jfreeman@cyberport.com Thu May 4 19:18:51 2000 "Rodmakers" , Subject: Re: The virus "I Love You" This sucker hit work and just about shut everybody down. I hear it's allover the nation. Took me about 30 minutes to delete all of the messages.Onething - I did get a message from the CEO that said "I Love You". Can't waitto run into him. Doesn't cause anymore problems that I can tell. Jim----- Original Message ----- ; Subject: The virus "I Love You" Being member of lists sure pays off at times. This morning I opened mymail to find a message from Danny Twang on th Rodmakers list warningusall of the "I Love You" virus. I had no sooner closed out his messagewhen I received about 20 "I Love You" messages via internal lists withinmy university environment. The attack has put our mail systems downfor6 hours for scrubbing and removing the damage caused by this virus.Danny's warning sure helped my group who are all on the internal listsand who all received the "I Love You" multiple messages. Thanks to thewarning I put out, none opened the message . Thanks Danny,Jim Tefft - Rochester Institute of Technology from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Thu May 4 19:48:49 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Fri, 5 May 2000 00:48:15 +0000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Sean, I have no idea what this deep tea color represents. I suspect it is justpigments in the cane. I change the water in my bath as it becomesdiscolored. If you do your rod in any kind of timely manner there willbe no problem. I planed five butts and six tips to the same rod specksin a leisurely manner, and saw no ill affects. Several spare pieces thatI left in the bath forever did start to get a fungus on them. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO Sean McSharry wrote: Peter and others: I would be interested in opinions on this too. Inoticed that the water in which I soaked some cane for up to a weekbecame quite coloured, and it began to "go off" a bit before I threw itout.So something was passing from the cane into the water. Sean petermckean wrote: Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)Encoding: quoted-printable from cheaney@nwol.net Thu May 4 21:34:57 2000 Subject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB611.ACA113C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB611.ACA113C0 I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are as =follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and =unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any of =these are particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, if =you will tell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I =can supply jpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give =me. Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB611.ACA113C0 I have three old fly rods that belonged to my = They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is = unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like = you can give me. Steve =Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB611.ACA113C0-- from saweiss@flash.net Thu May 4 21:58:04 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo What happens is called fermentation. In other words, the stuff is growingbacteria, mold, & fungi in the solution. You can change the water daily toreduce the growth, or add a few drops of chlorine bleach to the water.Steve Peter and others: I would be interested in opinions on this too. Inoticed that the water in which I soaked some cane for up to a weekbecame quite coloured, and it began to "go off" a bit before I threw itout.So something was passing from the cane into the water. Sean petermckean wrote: Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)Encoding: quoted-printable from richjez@enteract.com Thu May 4 22:02:25 2000 (envelope- from richjez@enteract.com) Subject: Re: soaking bamboo I have never tried it but a little vinegar in the water should prevent fungus growth. Fungus reproduction requires a certain range of Ph. The added acid will inhibit the funguses reproduction. Now if you add some bamboo shoots and you have the start of a salad. Rich Jezioro At 07:49 PM 5/4/00 -0700, Steve Trauthwein wrote:Sean, I have no idea what this deep tea color represents. I suspect it is justpigments in the cane. I change the water in my bath as it becomesdiscolored. If you do your rod in any kind of timely manner there willbe no problem. I planed five butts and six tips to the same rod specksin a leisurely manner, and saw no ill affects. Several spare pieces thatI left in the bath forever did start to get a fungus on them. Regards, SteveIn *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):> from FISHWOOL@aol.com Thu May 4 22:09:59 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Sean,Anything that is organic matter will send the water "off" after a while. I generally toss the water out after soaking one rod's set of sticks.Hank. from irish-george@pacbell.net Thu May 4 22:15:13 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: Re: Virus Warning -- a couple of recommended precautions A couple of good ideas from one of the antivirus sites: 1) turn off "preview pane" for Outlook (Carnegie Mellon security expertthinks it may be able to spread this way, too). 2) set up a filter to delete all email messages with "ILOVEYOU" in thesubject area. It is a nasty one. Our IT department (we are a major manufacturer ofnetwork servers) sent out notices first thing this morning and has beenintercepting email from outside with the suspect subject. Still, one gottome via an internal path...just chucked it...no problem. Good luck to everyone. George ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Virus Warning Folks, Below is a something I received at my corporate office on the virussubject. Mark TNB Broadcast 05/04/00 10:40AM >>>If you receive an email message that has I Love You in the subject line donot open it, contact the helpdesk immediately. The message contains avirusthat is much like the Mellisa virus. For more information on the virusplease go the URL below. http://www.zdnet.com/zdnn/stories/news/0,4586,2561671,00.html?chkpt=zdhpnews01 from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Thu May 4 22:57:04 2000 Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BFB624.92A49240" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BFB624.92A49240 Steve, You can get an idea of their value here: http://www.gorp.com/cl_angle/canecoun/VALUE.htm Paul Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 10:42 PMSubject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are as =follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and =unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any of =these are particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, if =you will tell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I =can supply jpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give =me. Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BFB624.92A49240 Steve, You can get an idea of their value =here: http://www.gorp.=com/cl_angle/canecoun/VALUE.htm Paul ----- Original Message ----- Cheaney = Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 = PMSubject: Help With Some Old Fly= Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my = They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is = and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would = you can give me. Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BFB624.92A49240-- from Turbotrk@aol.com Thu May 4 23:01:45 2000 Subject: Re: Rayon thread? In a message dated 00-05-04 07:01:40 EDT, mrmac@tcimet.net writes: Mac on my first rod I was very frustrated with the ups god. I had ordered silk and it just never came. I did the exact thing you did and found that the rayon was very strong and looked great until I put anything on it. The jasper you talked about turned almost black when the finish hit it. I only wanted to make a signiture wrap and it ended up as a very dark nondiscript ugly wrap. I learned a very good leason. Experiment on a dowel, not a rod. my 2 cents stuart miller from Turbotrk@aol.com Thu May 4 23:11:01 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Quat sanatizer may be better then bleach. I have found that you can use very small concentrations and not see any side affects such as bleaching. I get it from were I work and dilute it 100% from the idustrial grade. Stuart Miller from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu May 4 23:18:39 2000 21:28:07 PDT Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods Steve, I'm not sure about the rarity of the H-I rods, but the Deluxe President isone of the higher grade Heddons. Irestored one once that had gold wraps with dark green tipping. It was an 81/2' 1 3/4 F ferrule 3 pc.Blackened ferrules and had the green tipping at both ends of the wrap onthe hookkeeper and the ferrules, sothat was a little unusual. There is an H-I Black Beauty listed in Sinclair's book that sold for $5 inthe early 20's in a range of rodsselling at 85 cents to $18.00, that will help you know where it sat in thefoodchain when it was made. Ididn't see any reference to the Admiral Deluxe. Chris McDowell- - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Subject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any of theseare particularly rare. I cansupply you with more information, if you will tell me what to look for. Ialso have a digital camera, so Ican supply jpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can giveme. Steve Cheaney from timklein@uswest.net Fri May 5 00:44:15 2000 (63.225.127.138) Subject: Re: The virus "I Love You" In our company, the IT department was pretty embarrassed by the factthatthey were the ones who opened it first and got the whole thing rolling! Ieven received copies from the Director of Information Technology and thehead of our data security program. Being 2 hours behind the east coast, we were pretty lucky at our site. With45 copies of this thing in my e-mail box it was pretty obvious thatsomething was amiss. Still, we had about a 15% to 20% infection rate. Iworkin the Business Systems group (AS400 software), but we were recruitedtohelp our desktop group disinfect systems. Pretty much killed my day (and evening). Believe it or not, I was planning to go fishing after work. Didn't make ithome 'till nearly 10pm though. Maybe they'll give me some comp time on Friday >. ---Tim "I'm proud to pay taxes in the United States; the only thing is, I could bejust as proud for half the money"- Arthur Godfrey ----- Original Message ----- Rodmakers ; Subject: Re: The virus "I Love You" This sucker hit work and just about shut everybody down. I hear it's allover the nation. Took me about 30 minutes to delete all of the messages.Onething - I did get a message from the CEO that said "I Love You". Can'twaitto run into him. Doesn't cause anymore problems that I can tell. Jim----- Original Message -----From: "Jim Tefft" ; Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 10:24 AMSubject: The virus "I Love You" Being member of lists sure pays off at times. This morning I opened mymail to find a message from Danny Twang on th Rodmakers list warningusall of the "I Love You" virus. I had no sooner closed out his messagewhen I received about 20 "I Love You" messages via internal listswithinmy university environment. The attack has put our mail systems downfor6 hours for scrubbing and removing the damage caused by this virus.Danny's warning sure helped my group who are all on the internal listsand who all received the "I Love You" multiple messages. Thanks to thewarning I put out, none opened the message . Thanks Danny,Jim Tefft - Rochester Institute of Technology from timklein@uswest.net Fri May 5 00:52:37 2000 (63.225.127.138) Subject: Copycat Virus - "Very Funny" boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0018_01BFB623.D35A8A20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BFB623.D35A8A20 Just read about a copycat virus that isn't necessarily picked up by =virus protection software that has been updated to catch the "Lovebug" http://cnn.com/2000/TECH/computing/05/04/iloveyou.03/index.html They're expecting plenty more copycats over the next few days. Hunker down and don't open any attachments. ---Tim "I'm proud to pay taxes in the United States; the only thing is, I could =be just as proud for half the money"- Arthur Godfrey ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BFB623.D35A8A20 Just read about a copycat virus that isn't = "Lovebug" =http://cnn.com/2000/TECH/computing/05/04/iloveyou.03/index.html They're expecting plenty more copycats over thenext = days. Hunker down and don't open any =attachments. ---Tim "I'm proud to pay taxes in the United States; the = Godfrey ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BFB623.D35A8A20-- from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Fri May 5 01:44:25 2000 Subject: VIRUS COPYCAT The latest copycat virus descovered here in Norway is called "JOKES", danny from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri May 5 06:28:02 2000 (envelope- from petermckean@netspace.net.au) VAA11421 Subject: soaking bamboo boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB6D8.41F61260" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB6D8.41F61260 Thanks for the advice, especially re in-tank fermentation. I think what =I will do is do the strips one at a time, and at my very slow hobbyist =pace that will mean they soak for a max of 5 days. If I run into any =problems, I will pass it on. Agree, though, that even after 48 hours, =the water is starting to look very, very manky - a bit like the wort in =home brewing, but doesn't smell as good. But then, what does? Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB6D8.41F61260 Thanks for the advice, especially re = at my very slow hobbyist pace that will mean they soak for a max = If I run into any problems, I will pass it on. Agree, though, that even = hours, the water is starting to look very, very manky - a bit like the = home brewing, but doesn't smell as good. But then, what =does? Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFB6D8.41F61260-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri May 5 07:25:14 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 5 May 2000 07:26:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I can find no reference to the H-I's, but they made so many, this is notunusual. Heddon was the cream of the production rods, and your model isoneof their best. It all depends on how it was cared for, as to it's worth.Many covet the better Heddon production. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any of theseare particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, if you willtell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I can supplyjpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Steve Cheaney from grau@buchlang.com Fri May 5 07:30:27 2000 Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods The Number 3 must be the legendary "Black Beauty" - think the taper is intheRodmakers Archive. Regards Stefan nobler schrieb: I can find no reference to the H-I's, but they made so many, this is notunusual. Heddon was the cream of the production rods, and your model isoneof their best. It all depends on how it was cared for, as to it's worth.Many covet the better Heddon production. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Cheaney" Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 9:42 PMSubject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any of theseare particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, if youwilltell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I can supplyjpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Steve Cheaney --Lang Info AccessDatenbanken - CD Rom - InternetliteraturInternet: http://www.buchlang.com/infoaccess/Stefan GrauInformation ConsultantMènzgraben 2CH-3011 Berne/SwitzerlandPhone: 031 310 84 84direct phone: ++41 ( 0 ) 31 310 84 78fax: 310 84 94ausgenommen:Montag vormittag,Dienstag nachmittagMittwoch ganzer Tag---------------------------------------------------------------Sicherheits-Hinweis: Diese elektronische Post ist nur fèr den oder die Empf€nger, welchein der Adress-Zeile genannt werden bestimmt!Falls Sie nicht zu diesen gehåren, verståsst jede- unerlaubte Kopie,- unerlaubte Weiterleitung,- unerlaubte Kenntnisnahme, auch vermutlich oeffentlicher Inhalte,- und unerlaubte Verbreitung der enthaltenen Nachricht(en),sowie jeder anderer unautorisierte Gebrauch gegen geltendes Recht. Falls Sie nicht zu den in der Adresszeile genannten Empf€nger(n) gehåren,so bitten wir Sie um Kontaktnahme des Absenders und Zerstårungder betreffenden Daten von Ihrem Computer._________________________________________ Security-Note: The information transmitted is intended only for the personor entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidentialand/or privileged material.Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, ortaking of any action in reliance upon, this information bypersons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited.If you received this in error, please contact the sender and deletethe material from any computer. from grau@buchlang.com Fri May 5 07:43:29 2000 Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods ups - i`m sorry - i`m not so familiar with american rods - i`m theeuropean guy *lol* Regards Stefan Grhghlndr@aol.com schrieb: # 3 is not the Black Beauty because it was made by Heddon not H &I.Bret --Lang Info AccessDatenbanken - CD Rom - InternetliteraturInternet: http://www.buchlang.com/infoaccess/Stefan GrauInformation ConsultantMènzgraben 2CH-3011 Berne/SwitzerlandPhone: 031 310 84 84direct phone: ++41 ( 0 ) 31 310 84 78fax: 310 84 94ausgenommen:Montag vormittag,Dienstag nachmittagMittwoch ganzer Tag---------------------------------------------------------------Sicherheits-Hinweis: Diese elektronische Post ist nur fèr den oder die Empf€nger, welchein der Adress-Zeile genannt werden bestimmt!Falls Sie nicht zu diesen gehåren, verståsst jede- unerlaubte Kopie,- unerlaubte Weiterleitung,- unerlaubte Kenntnisnahme, auch vermutlich oeffentlicher Inhalte,- und unerlaubte Verbreitung der enthaltenen Nachricht(en),sowie jeder anderer unautorisierte Gebrauch gegen geltendes Recht. Falls Sie nicht zu den in der Adresszeile genannten Empf€nger(n)gehåren,so bitten wir Sie um Kontaktnahme des Absenders und Zerstårungder betreffenden Daten von Ihrem Computer._________________________________________ Security-Note: The information transmitted is intended only for the personor entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidentialand/or privileged material.Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, ortaking of any action in reliance upon, this information bypersons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited.If you received this in error, please contact the sender and deletethe material from any computer. from BJCarlson@webtv.net Fri May 5 08:36:02 2000 ESMTP id 8E2132CB56 144.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id ETAsAhQ4yxzUuz1gEtj+NVkgBbTeljvQhAIUeN+wolT60ItnA7mIxYGEGi1illI= Subject: A real he-mans rod If any of you have any interest in old tournament trout fly distancerods - here's a beauty. One of my friends allowed my to document one ofhis rods from 1955. One of the members of the local casting club, and aworld class caster, went to Sewell Dunton and purchased three blanks tohis custom tapers. The same person that worked with Dr. Howland,developing the first fiberglass tapers, at Owens Corning in Toledobefore Shakespeare bought into the patent. Overall length is 9 ft 3/4 in assembled. 1940 NAACC rules limited a 10ft rod with 5 3/4 oz max wt. But they had unlimited weight at 9 1/2 ftor less. Most casters went to the shorter, heavier rods. Weighed on apost office digital scale. 6.8 oz. Dark tempered cane. Not anything like the so called "chemical tempered"cane that the Montagues were known for. Half wells 6 1/2 in grip.Contoured to fit the casters hand. Small Shakespeare green anodizedalum "snap lock" reel seat. Cut down to 2 7/8 in. Ferrules arestraight drawn N/S, rolled welt. Female 2 1/4 in. Male 1 3/4 in.16/64". Perfection tip and snakes. Mildrum stripper. Tip - overall length = 53 5/8 in.0" .096 .096 .0965" .109 .109 .10910" .129 .129 .12915" .143 .144 .14220" .163 .166 .16625" .177 .183 .18030" .197 .199 .19935" .210 .205 .20440" .225 .226 .22545" .235 .237 .23750" .248 .250 .250 Butt - overall length = 56 in.55" .258 .255 .25460" .278 .276 .27865" .299 .297 .29470" .339 .336 .33575" .363 .353 .36180" .388 .379 .39085" .415 .412 .41390" .440 .438 .43495" .458 .458 .46399" .460 .470 .460 Guide spacing - Large Perfection Pear tip, 4 1/4", 10", 16", 23 1/4",32", 41 1/8", 49 3/4", 56", 68 1/2", 78 1/2"stripper. The owners comments were that he never could handle the weight. Neededa sling for his arm at the end of the event. I cast it with a silk GBF"Shooting Star" Rocket Taper. One false cast and it was into thebacking, but it wanted a heavier line. After 10 minutes I thought myarm was going to fall off. The owner of this rod has an interest in nostalgia so he is going aroundtown to see if he can collect more distance and accuracy rods, so thatwe can document more, but many of the old timers are dead and many ofthe home built rods are lost forever. Bob from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Fri May 5 08:48:37 2000 06:48:34 PDT Subject: suggestions for Colorado trout fishing? I will be in Colorado in the June/July timeframe andwonder if anyone who is in the know can suggest somegood trout water. I will be up in Ft Collins but willtravel all the way to the Southeastern part of thestate (where I hear it's good). Can good fishing behad in July? I'm from Pennsylvania where July fishingis usually not very good because of the watertemperature. Thanks in advance for any information. Jeff Ramsey __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from BJCarlson@webtv.net Fri May 5 10:23:56 2000 ESMTP id 1804A2D111 143.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id ETAtAhUAszJ9IYONYRyHwQCvP1rxwnMJVWUCFHvImavdMncewAmfB4S2r8Y/ct1V Subject: A real he-mans rod Forgot - Owner said he brushed two thin coats of spar varnish. I woulddeduct .003. Said he balanced this rod with a Medalist 1496. Bob from darrell@rockclimbing.org Fri May 5 10:28:05 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Help With Some Old Fly Rods boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0002_01BFB66B.12E337E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BFB66B.12E337E0 The Admiral by H-I was a very late rod... I've seen pics on one on ebay awhile back... It's one of their top quality rods... If I remember, it was animpregnated cane rod. it might also have been one of their Registeredseriesrods... As far as the #3 Unless it was a private label rod, we should rule out thatit was a Heddon as they did not use decals except for some private labelrods. If you want more help on the rods, please contact me off list. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 7:43 PM Subject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are asfollows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any ofthese are particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, if youwill tell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I cansupply jpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BFB66B.12E337E0 Admiral by H-I was a very late rod... I've seen pics on one on ebay a = impregnated cane rod. it might also have been one of their Registered = rods... as the #3 Unless it was a private label rod, we should rule out that it = Heddon as they did not use decals except for some private label rods. If = want more help on the rods, please contact me off =list. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net CheaneySent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 7:43 = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Help With Some Old Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my = They are as follows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is = and unreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would = you can give me. Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BFB66B.12E337E0-- from rfjoinery@creativequest.com Fri May 5 10:31:04 2000 suzie.brick.net (8.9.3/8.8.5) with SMTP idKAA21711 for ; Fri, 5 May 2000 10:23:43 Subject: node straightening Where can I find plans for a bending rig for straightening nodes? I recallseeing one, but can't remember where. It was a 3-sided clamp arrangementthat could be built from hardwood. Thanks. from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri May 5 10:31:42 2000 (5.0.1459.74) Subject: Reel A little off topic, but I knew you would guys would have some answers production rod. It casts a 5 or 6 wt line nicely, and I will use thisrod for trout in small and medium sized streams. I need/want a heavierreel for this rod than I own so was looking at used/older reels. Thereally old Pfluger Progress reels, in brass, are very attractive to me,though I've never seen one in person. Are they actually useable? Dothey have any kind of click drag or anti-overrun device? And, in ageneral sense, if they are still in one piece can they be cleaned up andmade to work? I see a lot of them on the auction boards that the sellerhas no idea whether they work, except that they still turn with maybe alittle sticking. Opinions on this reel and whether it might make a nicematch for an old piece of cane? from cheaney@nwol.net Fri May 5 11:14:37 2000 Subject: I've Learned Some More About the Old Fly Rods boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0045_01BFB684.2BAF24A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01BFB684.2BAF24A0 Thanks for the overwhelming response to my e-mail of last night. I have =learned several things about the rods as a result of e-mail that I = The following is hand written in cursive writing on the Heddon rod: HeddonDeluxePresident#50 - 8 1/2' - 2F - HDH or E I'm not sure how the rating system works for fly rods, but the rod shows =only signs of wear from use. There are no bent ferrules, no wrapping =breaks, and no breaks in the rod itself. The rod appears to be in the original bag. There is a tag on the bag =with the following information handwritten on it: No. 50 Lgth. 8 1/2Fer. 2 Wt. WLS 4 1/2 oz. (The WLS could also be W65, =WL5, or W6L)FinalInspector's O.K. LS The Rod and bag are in what I would guess is the original tube. It is a =copper colored tube with Heddon written on the cap. The cap is slightly = I have also learned that the mystery H-I is a Black River fly and =casting rod. It appears to be in its original bag and tube. The fly rod =tip was broken at the ferrule next to the tip. It has been pretty well =repaired, but the thread color doesn't match. The casting tip is in =excellent condition. The bag has a tag with H-I and Blue River printed =on it. The word River is barely legible. The tube is aluminum in color =and has no markings. The cap threads work fine. After I removed it from the tube, I discovered that the Admiral Deluxe =is a glass spinning rod. The following information is written in =cursive on the rod: H-I Admiral DeluxeRegistered #5020 There is a decal above the writing with H-I Power Glass printed on it =and "410- 32" written on the decal in cursive. There is a damage to the =wrapping at the ferrule nearest the handle. Otherwise, the rod appears =to be in excellent shape. The bag has a printed tag with the following information printed on it: AdmiralDeluxe Tubular GlassRegistered Spinning RodNo. 410-32 Price $27.50Horrocks-IbbotsonUtica, New York The tube is black cardboard with a decal that says "An H-I Registered =Rod", the best I can make out. The decal has partially flaked off, but =otherwise the tube is in excellent condition. The cap threads work =fine. I think this should answer everyone's questions about the rods. I think =additional details would have to be transmitted by jpeg images. After =seeing the level of interest in buying the rods, I'm considering selling =them as they haven't been out of the tubes in over 20 years. Again, thanks to all for all the responses. Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01BFB684.2BAF24A0 Thanks for the overwhelming response to my e-mailof = The following is hand written in cursive writing on= rod:HeddonDeluxePresident#50 - 8 1/2' - 2F - HDH EI'm not sure how the rating system works for fly rods, but the = breaks, and no breaks in the rod itself.The rod appears to be in = W6L)FinalInspector's O.K. LSThe Rod and bag are in what= I have also learned that the mystery H-I is a Black = = casting = fine. After I removed it from the tube, I discovered that = written in cursive on the rod: H-I Admiral DeluxeRegistered #5020 There is a decal above the writing with H-I Power = the rod appears to be in excellent shape. The bag has a printed tag with the following = printed on it: AdmiralDeluxe Tubular GlassRegistered Spinning Rod $27.50Horrocks-IbbotsonUtica, New York The tube is black cardboard with a decal that says = work fine. I think this should answer everyone's questions = the rods, I'm considering selling them as they haven't been out of the = over 20 years. Again, thanks to all for all the =responses. Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01BFB684.2BAF24A0-- from rmoon@ida.net Fri May 5 11:22:41 2000 Subject: Re: node straightening Where can I find plans for a bending rig for straightening nodes? It is in Ray Gould's bookRalph from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri May 5 14:06:07 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 5 May 2000 13:43:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I've never seen an H-I without a decal ! Which were they Darrell ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Help With Some Old Fly Rods The Admiral by H-I was a very late rod... I've seen pics on one on ebay awhile back... It's one of their top quality rods... If I remember, it wasanimpregnated cane rod. it might also have been one of their Registeredseriesrods... As far as the #3 Unless it was a private label rod, we should rule outthatit was a Heddon as they did not use decals except for some private labelrods. If you want more help on the rods, please contact me off list. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 7:43 PM Subject: Help With Some Old Fly Rods I have three old fly rods that belonged to my father. They are asfollows: 1) Heddon Deluxe President2) H-I Admiral Deluxe3) H-I Black???? (the last half of the decal is scratched andunreadable) I know very little about fly rods, and I would like to know if any ofthese are particularly rare. I can supply you with more information, ifyouwill tell me what to look for. I also have a digital camera, so I cansupply jpegs if needed. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Steve Cheaney from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri May 5 15:52:27 2000 11:57:12 PDT Subject: Re: Reel I've got an early 1920's Pfleuger Sal-Trout #1554 in about size 3 1/2"that I've never used for fishing, butwhat it has is a button on the back that engages and disengages the drag.With no drag it just free spools,with the drag on it is a pretty tight click drag with equal tension goingforward or backward. It's muchlouder then I would personally like on a fishing stream and kind of jerky,but as for nostalgia it wouldcompliment your fly rod. This one looks like aluminum with a brass footand brass pins etc. Because of thethin frame and floral cutouts I would estimate it weighs about the sameas most of the modern reels. Chris- - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Subject: Reel A little off topic, but I knew you would guys would have some answers production rod. It casts a 5 or 6 wt line nicely, and I will use thisrod for trout in small and medium sized streams. I need/want a heavierreel for this rod than I own so was looking at used/older reels. Thereally old Pfluger Progress reels, in brass, are very attractive to me,though I've never seen one in person. Are they actually useable? Dothey have any kind of click drag or anti-overrun device? And, in ageneral sense, if they are still in one piece can they be cleaned up andmade to work? I see a lot of them on the auction boards that the sellerhas no idea whether they work, except that they still turn with maybe alittle sticking. Opinions on this reel and whether it might make a nicematch for an old piece of cane? from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Fri May 5 17:08:50 2000 svc.ntlworld.com(InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Fri, 5 May 2000 23:08:46 +0100 Subject: Re: Rayon thread? I'll second that comment.Despite the fact that I use 'Madeira'rayon alot on my rods some colours just go very dark when coated withpolyurethane.Please try out your method on a whipped/wrapped bit ofdowel first..........good luck........Paul. Turbotrk@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 00-05-04 07:01:40 EDT, mrmac@tcimet.net writes: drifted into the fabric shop to see if, on a longshot, they might havesilk thread. Nope. But, there *was* some interesting Rayon threadwhich was like the hard to find silk jasper, but in a whole bunch ofchoices for color combinations, and a couple that were like rainbowthread of varying colors. There were two black and whites that lookedreal sharp, but slightly different. So, I picked up a couple spools todink with. I know it's not purist traditional, but there were some realnice colors to choose from. Thread weight was listed as 35 wt.Whatever that translates into as far as 0, 00, etc I don't know. Anyone tried rayon before? Does it do better with color preserver, orwith varnish straightaway? Any particular problems with it used forguides? TIA, regards to all, mac >>Mac on my first rod I was very frustrated with the ups god. I had orderedsilk and it just never came. I did the exact thing you did and found thatthe rayon was very strong and looked great until I put anything on it. Thejasper you talked about turned almost black when the finish hit it. Ionlywanted to make a signiture wrap and it ended up as a very dark nondiscriptugly wrap. I learned a very good leason. Experiment on a dowel, not arod. my 2 cents stuart miller from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri May 5 17:22:23 2000 Fri, 5 May 2000 19:21:50 -0300 Subject: Re: Small stream Classic rods totake it down a foot and a line wt. For the more experienced builder, the7'0" 3wt FE Thomas with swelled butt that Reed Curry posted in the archives. OrWaynesSir D built as a 3pc 2 wt 6'3" (good pack rod)Shawn CCGGLOBAL@aol.com wrote: Rodmakers: Help ! If you were building your first bamboo rod, whattaperwould you select of the Classic rod tapers that would make an idealsmallstream bamboo rod. Bill Campbell : e-mail: ccgglobal@aol.com from dblanken@rica.net Sat May 6 08:52:56 2000 0000 Subject: Morgan Mill, Quad OK you mill users (Tom, if you're listening), anyone have a height\widthtable or the conversion factor for figuring spline width from height for aquad (90 degree angle) taper? Thanks, David from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat May 6 09:06:11 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 6 May 2000 10:04:13 Subject: Silk line bonanza I came across quite a find last night: eight silk fly lines well-preservedon drying racks. (Sometimes, we get really lucky.) I now need info onrestoring them. I've read in the archives that Rodmakers's very own Darrylhas recently written and submitted an article on this subject to BambooFlyRod magazine. Since the date of the release of the next issue of themagazine is, um, indeterminate (let's not revisit this subject guys), andI'd like to fish these lines this spring, I'd appreciate a synopsis of thebest technique or any links about silk line restoration. Pleeeeaaase Darryl????? Thanks in advance, Richard from freaner@home.com Sat May 6 09:20:21 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP Subject: Re: Morgan Mill, Quad At 10:03 AM -0400 , 5/6/00, David Blankenship wrote about Morgan Mill,QuadOK you mill users (Tom, if you're listening), anyone have a height\widthtable or the conversion factor for figuring spline width from height for aquad (90 degree angle) taper? Thanks, David a_________________b|\ /| \ /| \ /| \ /| / d| /| /|/c The distance a-d is exactly 1/2 of the distance b-c The distance a-b is equal to the distance b-c divided by square root 2 (1.41421) The angle abc is a 45 degree angle. You can also calculate the distance a-b as being = the distance b-c times the cosine of 45 degrees (.70710) Claude from bob@downandacross.com Sat May 6 09:35:26 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Silk line bonanza Go to Darryl's site http://vfish.netBoth Reed and Darryl's methods are there.Use Reed Curry's method with the baking soda. 1/3 box of baking soda to 1 gallon of H20. Works great. Formby's tung oil works great for the finish right out of the can. I have done three lines this way and they are great. You may only need some Mucillin if they are so well preserved. I would hesitate to do anything more than polish them with talc if they are not all sticky and gooey.Don't use any unnecessarily strong solvent.Bob At 09:34 AM 5/6/00 -0400, you wrote:I came across quite a find last night: eight silk fly lines well-preservedon drying racks. (Sometimes, we get really lucky.) I now need info onrestoring them. I've read in the archives that Rodmakers's very ownDarrylhas recently written and submitted an article on this subject to BambooFlyRod magazine. Since the date of the release of the next issue of themagazine is, um, indeterminate (let's not revisit this subject guys), andI'd like to fish these lines this spring, I'd appreciate a synopsis of thebest technique or any links about silk line restoration. Pleeeeaaase Darryl????? Thanks in advance, Richard Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from BJCarlson@webtv.net Sat May 6 09:45:01 2000 ESMTP id 3385F2023 145.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id ETAtAhRvluJWCKfQ2T+355/BMQEPlkINvAIVAMmQoIxU0W4x5ocFyWE6Hry/LZY6 Subject: Tapers I have come across some tapers for old rods that are stated in 6"centers and 64's of an inch. I have searched the archives and all mybooks to see if there is a quick and dirty way to transpose these to 5"centers. I'm sure it can be done, I just don't know where to start. TIA Bob from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sat May 6 10:41:57 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers Hi, the easiest way to do it is to convert to 1" measurements first. Take the difference between two adjacent measurements. Divide thedifference by 6 and subtract the result from the larger of the twonumbers.This gives you the first 1" measurement. Then subtract the 1/6thdifference from the 1" result and that gives you the next point. do this for the five1 inch intervals between the 6" invervals. Repet this for all the 6" intervals. You can now take every fifth andyou'll have the 5" interval taper. This is where an excell spread sheet really comes in handy. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tapers I have come across some tapers for old rods that are stated in 6"centers and 64's of an inch. I have searched the archives and all mybooks to see if there is a quick and dirty way to transpose these to 5"centers. I'm sure it can be done, I just don't know where to start. TIA Bob from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat May 6 11:37:54 2000 Subject: Re: Silk line bonanza Reed Curry is Mr. Silk. His reconditioning regimen is the best one. It'sbeen posted in a few places, I saw it on the Flyanglersonline site.Darryl I came across quite a find last night: eight silk fly lines well-preservedon drying racks. (Sometimes, we get really lucky.) I now need info onrestoring them. I've read in the archives that Rodmakers's very ownDarrylhas recently written and submitted an article on this subject to BambooFlyRod magazine. Since the date of the release of the next issue of themagazine is, um, indeterminate (let's not revisit this subject guys), andI'd like to fish these lines this spring, I'd appreciate a synopsis of thebest technique or any links about silk line restoration. Pleeeeaaase Darryl????? from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat May 6 11:40:14 2000 Subject: Re: Silk line bonanza Great site, but not mine....Darryl Go to Darryl's site http://vfish.net from bob@downandacross.com Sat May 6 12:07:01 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com)Message-Id: Subject: Darrell vs. Darryl Sorry for confusing my Darryls ....I mean Darrells.Best regards,BobBob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat May 6 14:47:39 2000 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Silk line bonanza "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Here's Reed Curry's excellent article on silk line refinishing. http://vfish.net/silkrecon2.htm I also just added a silk thread chart for those interested. This is based onSinclair's rod wrapping thread chart. http://vfish.net/silkchart.htm Darrell -----Original Message----- Subject: Silk line bonanza I came across quite a find last night: eight silk fly lines well-preservedon drying racks. (Sometimes, we get really lucky.) I now need info onrestoring them. I've read in the archives that Rodmakers's very own Darrylhas recently written and submitted an article on this subject to BambooFlyRod magazine. Since the date of the release of the next issue of themagazine is, um, indeterminate (let's not revisit this subject guys), andI'd like to fish these lines this spring, I'd appreciate a synopsis of thebest technique or any links about silk line restoration. Pleeeeaaase Darryl????? Thanks in advance, Richard from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat May 6 17:58:05 2000 16:08:05 PDT Subject: Hardy fiberglass blank Can I assume that finishing out a fiberglass blank is mostly the same asthe process for finishing out abamboo blank minus the varnish? What is used over the wraps of afiberglass blank? Any other recommendationsor tips would be appreciated. I've never worked with glass or graphite, andwanted to verify the processbefore I accept a project. Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from channer1@rmi.net Sat May 6 19:30:59 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers Paul Goodwin wrote: Hi, the easiest way to do it is to convert to 1" measurements first. Take the difference between two adjacent measurements. Divide thedifference by 6 and subtract the result from the larger of the twonumbers.This gives you the first 1" measurement. Then subtract the 1/6thdifference from the 1" result and that gives you the next point. do this for the five1 inch intervals between the 6" invervals. Repet this for all the 6" intervals. You can now take every fifth andyou'll have the 5" interval taper. This is where an excell spread sheet really comes in handy. Paul Paul;Actually, the easy way to do it is to use the online Hexrod program, ithas a provision to enter dimensions on any spacing and then it willprint it to 5"centers for you. Let the computer do the work, that's whatit's for.John from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Sat May 6 19:40:54 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP Subject: Back On Line Hello All, I have been off line a couple of days. I have a new server and email andthey screwed my account up a couple of times. Just a shout in case anyone was trying to reach me. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from tkiernan@tm.net Sat May 6 21:07:02 2000 with SMTP (IPAD 2.52) id 9250500; Sat, 06 May 2000 21:06:57 -0500 Subject: Removal from mailing list boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFB7A7.1647F820" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFB7A7.1647F820 Please take me off the mailing list Thanks, Terry Kiernan. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFB7A7.1647F820 Please take me off the mailinglist = Terry Kiernan. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFB7A7.1647F820-- from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sat May 6 21:47:07 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Tapers Paul Goodwin wrote: Hi, the easiest way to do it is to convert to 1" measurements first. Take the difference between two adjacent measurements. Divide thedifference by 6 and subtract the result from the larger of the twonumbers.This gives you the first 1" measurement. Then subtract the 1/6thdifference from the 1" result and that gives you the next point. do this for thefive1 inch intervals between the 6" invervals. Repet this for all the 6" intervals. You can now take every fifth andyou'll have the 5" interval taper. This is where an excell spread sheet really comes in handy. Paul Paul;Actually, the easy way to do it is to use the online Hexrod program, ithas a provision to enter dimensions on any spacing and then it willprint it to 5"centers for you. Let the computer do the work, that's whatit's for.John John, Let's just suppose you need to replicate a tip for an important client.However, all you have is a taper from intervals that doesn't fit yourplanningform and melissa, KAK, "ILOVEYOU" or the virus duJour has taken out yourPC. Are you going to tell them to wait because you can't use your PC do tosome 3rd grade math. Paul from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sat May 6 22:12:41 2000 Subject: Re: Morgan Mill, Quad To all,As the strip is a 45*, 45*, 90* triangle, the height is one leg of a right triangle, the hypotenuse is the enamel width and the other leg is 1/2 the enamel width. Therefore if the strip enamel width is .200", then the formula is: .200 squared=1/2 of .200 squared (i.e., .100 squared) + height squared, then height squared= .200 squared- .100 squared or H x H=.02-.01=.03. Then H= square root of .03 or .174. I've forgotten my sineand cosine relationships but I believe that if you take the cosine of 1/2 the enamel width you will get the strip height and avoid all the above hieroglyphics. Have fun! :- )Hank. from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Sat May 6 22:27:53 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP Subject: Polishing Poly Hi all, I have this parrot... :-) Butt, seriously. I was wondering what, ifany success folks have had with polishing polyurethane varnish. I haveone (a rod, that is) in the works and I've noticed it (it = Minwax polyspar) tends to "ball up" when I sand it. I have been using 2000 gritwet and it still keeps building up. I just got myself a can of boiledlinseed oil to try on the next go-round, but I was really curious as towhether I was going to get anywhere when I get around to the finalpolishing steps. TIA, Dennis from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat May 6 22:40:42 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 6 May 2000 22:28:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Polishing Poly Go to an auto paint store and ask them about a wet sanding liquid. Prepsol,is one name, and I posted another here a week or two ago. I can look it upif you need it. It assists in stopping the clogging, etc.. I've not tried polishing any poly- urethanes, but there is Gorham's SilverPolish, (grocery stores) that's about as fine as I have known. I've heardrecently that the auto paint people have an even finer polishing mediumtheyuse. & you might inquire about this too, as I intend to also. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Polishing Poly Hi all, I have this parrot... :-) Butt, seriously. I was wondering what, ifany success folks have had with polishing polyurethane varnish. I haveone (a rod, that is) in the works and I've noticed it (it = Minwax polyspar) tends to "ball up" when I sand it. I have been using 2000 gritwet and it still keeps building up. I just got myself a can of boiledlinseed oil to try on the next go-round, but I was really curious as towhether I was going to get anywhere when I get around to the finalpolishing steps. TIA, Dennis from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat May 6 23:37:43 2000 Sun, 7 May 2000 12:37:34 +0800 Sun, 7 May 2000 12:37:29 +0800 Subject: RE: Silk line bonanza "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Reed's page is gret to just drop over and read, lots of good articles. Tony At 12:47 PM 5/6/00 -0700, Darrell A. Lee wrote:Here's Reed Curry's excellent article on silk line refinishing. http://vfish.net/silkrecon2.htm I also just added a silk thread chart for those interested. This is based onSinclair's rod wrapping thread chart. http://vfish.net/silkchart.htm Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 6:34 AM Subject: Silk line bonanza I came across quite a find last night: eight silk fly lines well-preservedon drying racks. (Sometimes, we get really lucky.) I now need info onrestoring them. I've read in the archives that Rodmakers's very ownDarrylhas recently written and submitted an article on this subject to BambooFlyRod magazine. Since the date of the release of the next issue of themagazine is, um, indeterminate (let's not revisit this subject guys), andI'd like to fish these lines this spring, I'd appreciate a synopsis of thebest technique or any links about silk line restoration. Pleeeeaaase Darryl????? Thanks in advance, Richard /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat May 6 23:39:55 2000 Sun, 7 May 2000 12:39:35 +0800 Sun, 7 May 2000 12:39:33 +0800 Subject: Re: Tapers But if you read this your computer is going, no? :-) Tony At 10:47 PM 5/6/00 -0400, Paul Goodwin wrote: ----- Original Message -----From: "channer" Cc: Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 8:34 PMSubject: Re: Tapers Paul Goodwin wrote: Hi, the easiest way to do it is to convert to 1" measurements first. Take the difference between two adjacent measurements. Divide thedifference by 6 and subtract the result from the larger of the twonumbers.This gives you the first 1" measurement. Then subtract the 1/6thdifference from the 1" result and that gives you the next point. do this for thefive1 inch intervals between the 6" invervals. Repet this for all the 6" intervals. You can now take every fifth andyou'll have the 5" interval taper. This is where an excell spread sheet really comes in handy. Paul Paul;Actually, the easy way to do it is to use the online Hexrod program, ithas a provision to enter dimensions on any spacing and then it willprint it to 5"centers for you. Let the computer do the work, that's whatit's for.John John, Let's just suppose you need to replicate a tip for an important client.However, all you have is a taper from intervals that doesn't fit yourplanningform and melissa, KAK, "ILOVEYOU" or the virus duJour has taken out yourPC. Are you going to tell them to wait because you can't use your PC do tosome 3rd grade math. Paul /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from EM11EM22@aol.com Sun May 7 01:04:59 2000 Subject: Re: Hardy fiberglass blank Chris:I have "wrapped and assembled" several Claudio fiberglass blanks withboth silk thread with varnish, and nylon thread with thinned Flex Coat. Controlof either material for the finish coat looks good or bad because ofapplication technique and experience from doing hundreds of rods.Differences in wrapping guides on bamboo vs. glass/graphite would bethread tension (if the tension is too extreme, it will crush the foot of the guide into the blank under the wrap), and the other area to watch is thepolishing of the "bottom" and "edges" of the guide foot to remove any burrs from ramping the "top" of the guide foot. (even a small burr can cause the blank to fail)I've been a "list reader" for sometime, and have restored a few cane rods, and assembled a few cane blanks. Last year I bought some culms fromDarrell at the Bishop gathering and will sometime in the near future, build a cane rod. Thanks to all of the "list" members for their great advise and inspiration!Edward Miller In a message dated 5/6/00 4:01:22 PM, mcdowellc@lanecc.edu writes: from jkcerise@rof.net Sun May 7 02:40:23 2000 Subject: Ken Weibe Products Fellow listers,Can anyone give me an address, phone #, URL or any means to contactKenWeibe, Manufacturer of the Super Sticker Cork handles? I'm looking for aset of smaller slip rings for a cork seat I have built. I believe he builtthe original of this style and I'm attempting to refurbish the thing andhave no address for him.The cork seat diameter is .72" so the rings should be slightly larger thanthat. Any source for this type of rings would be appreciated.TIA, jkcJohn K. CeriseColorado Custom RodsCarbondale, CO 81623970-963- 2795jkcerise@rof.net from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun May 7 03:54:16 2000 (envelope- from petermckean@netspace.net.au) SAA05841 Subject: Tapers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01BFB855.16C98620" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BFB855.16C98620 I seem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planing =form has, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stations at 5" =centres, and you have a taper profile which gives measurements every 6",=why not just mark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and =set the taper profile using your usual 5" screws while measuring with =the centre gauge at the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it =seemed to my perhaps fairly non-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have just said something really stupid, =but can't place just what.Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BFB855.16C98620 I seem to be missing a basic concept = new! If your planing form has, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment = at 5" centres, and you have a taper profile which gives measurements = why not just mark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and = taper profile using your usual 5" screws while measuring with the centre= at the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it seemed to my perhaps = non-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have = something really stupid, but can't place just what.Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BFB855.16C98620-- from channer1@rmi.net Sun May 7 06:19:14 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers Paul Goodwin wrote: John, Let's just suppose you need to replicate a tip for an important client.However, all you have is a taper from intervals that doesn't fit yourplanningform and melissa, KAK, "ILOVEYOU" or the virus duJour has taken out yourPC. Are you going to tell them to wait because you can't use your PC dotosome 3rd grade math. Paul;Touche! I guess I deserved that one. I will do the math on paper if Ihave to, and did convert a few from Kreider's book that way before I gota computer, but I am so spoiled now that I probably would wait until Igot the infernal machine up and running again.John Paul from channer1@rmi.net Sun May 7 06:27:31 2000 Subject: Re: Polishing Poly Dennis Haftel wrote: Hi all, I have this parrot... :-) Butt, seriously. I was wondering what, ifany success folks have had with polishing polyurethane varnish. I haveone (a rod, that is) in the works and I've noticed it (it = Minwax polyspar) tends to "ball up" when I sand it. I have been using 2000 gritwet and it still keeps building up. I just got myself a can of boiledlinseed oil to try on the next go-round, but I was really curious as towhether I was going to get anywhere when I get around to the finalpolishing steps. TIA, DennisDennis;I use spar varnish on my rods and I have had the same problem when Ihaven't given it enough time to cure before I sand it. Spar seems toneed at least 3 days before I can sand between coats or beforepolishing. I've never understood this because I have used spar and polyat work and sanded and recoated the next day without any of the usualhassles I have on rods, go figure.John from mep@mint.net Sun May 7 07:06:02 2000 Sun, 7 May 2000 08:05:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Tapers boundary="------------28DB938A08541FBDF1C08A04" --------------28DB938A08541FBDF1C08A04 I agree, I have some forms with 6" centers and I have used the samelogic in reverse. Seems to work just fine. Mike petermckean wrote: I seem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planingform has, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stations at 5"centres, and you have a taper profile which gives measurements every6", why not just mark the 6" positions on your forms with an inkmarker and set the taper profile using your usual 5" screws whilemeasuring with the centre gauge at the marked 6" points. I have donethis, and it seemed to my perhaps fairly non-crirical eye, to workjust fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have just said somethingreally stupid, but can't place just what.Peter --------------28DB938A08541FBDF1C08A04 I agree, I have some forms with 6" centers and I have used the same logicin reverse. Seems to work just fine.Mikepetermckean wrote: Iseem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planing formhas, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stations at 5" centres, andyou have a taper profile which gives measurements every 6", why not justmark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and set the taperprofile using your usual 5" screws while measuring with the centre gaugeat the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it seemed to my perhapsfairly non-crirical eye, to work just fine.Ihave this eerie feeling that I have just said something reallystupid,but can't place just what.Peter --------------28DB938A08541FBDF1C08A04-- from FlyfishT@aol.com Sun May 7 07:34:40 2000 Subject: Re: Polishing Poly rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Hi dennis ,I use min- wax poly also , you are probably not letting it cure long enough between coats. I don't have a drying cabinet built yet but i let mine dry about 3 to 4 days. Also its a lot better in the hot sun with air movement. Regards, Tom n. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun May 7 08:53:31 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sun, 7 May 2000 09:53:27 Subject: RE: Silk line bonanza Thanks to everyone who suggested solutions for my silk line restoration.Reed Curry's method certainly was strongly endorsed. Richard from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Sun May 7 09:05:44 2000 Subject: rod makers data base Hello, Can someone please direct me to Joe Byrd's site to down load Rod Makers Data Base,T.I.A Joe from p.a.bernick@ieee.org Sun May 7 09:21:39 2000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about my planingform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from cbogart@shentel.net Sun May 7 09:24:28 2000 "RODMAKERS" (5.0.2195) boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_"Subject: Re: Tapers --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Peter Your method will give you acceptable results but . . . It will be fine if you only want to do one rod of a taper. Where youcan have problemsis if you want to replicate the taper again. Reason for this is that goodplaning forms will have a guide pin at the setting station to insure the value you set stays set.With your method you are trying to set a value over an area of the form that has no guide pin andis unstable. Thevalues you set at the previous and next stations may be different everytime you set the taper. Strongly suggest you either use the computer to convert or set theform your wayand then go back and record the settings on the 5" stations just in caseyou want to replicate therod with a fair degree of certainty. This will latter allow you to use Hexrod to modify the taperif you so desire. I have used the computer to convert Kreider's tapers andit works just fine. Chris --Original Message Text--- I seem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planingform has, as mine does, push-pull screwadjustment stations at 5" centres, and you have a taper profile which givesmeasurements every 6", why not just mark the6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and set the taper profile using your usual5" screws while measuring with thecentre gauge at the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it seemed to my perhaps fairly non-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have just said something really stupid, butcan't place just what.Peter --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Peter Your method will give you acceptable results but . . . It will be fine if you only want to do one rod of a taper. Where you canhave problemsis if you want to replicate the taper again. Reason for this is that goodplaning forms will have a guide pin at the setting station to insure the value you set stays set.With your method you are trying to set a value over an area of the form that has no guide pin andis unstable. Thevalues you set at the previous and next stations may be different everytime you set the taper. Strongly suggest you either use the computer to convert or set the formyour wayand then go back and record the settings on the 5" stations just in caseyou want to replicate therod with a fair degree of certainty. This will latter allow you to use Hexrod to modify the taperif you so desire. I have used the computer to convert Kreider's tapers andit works just fine. Chris --Original Message Text---From: petermckeanDate: Sun, 7 May 2000 18:50:18 +1000 I seem to be missing abasic concept here! What's new! Ifyour planing form has, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stationsat 5" centres, and you have a taperprofile which gives measurements every 6", why not just mark the 6"positions on your forms with an ink markerand set the taper profile using your usual 5" screws while measuring withthe centre gauge at the marked 6"points. I have done this, and it seemed to my perhaps fairly non-criricaleye, to work just fine.I have this eeriefeeling that I have just said somethingreally stupid, but can't place just what.Peter --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun May 7 09:35:01 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 7 May 2000 09:22:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Tapers Duuuh, I wondered the same thing ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tapers I seem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planingformhas, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stations at 5" centres, andyou have a taper profile which gives measurements every 6", why not justmark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and set the taperprofile using your usual 5" screws while measuring with the centre gaugeatthe marked 6" points. I have done this, and it seemed to my perhaps fairlynon-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have just said something really stupid, butcan't place just what.Peter from BJCarlson@webtv.net Sun May 7 10:02:39 2000 ESMTP 147.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id ETAsAhQJdUg/KZBHcVtdatgamqrBZw2V0gIUG6rRMCv3DOJfckPmCtioem60g9w= Subject: Tapers Peter - I don't have any problem setting the tapers on my hand mill.Have many tapers here, wet and dry fly accuracy, trout fly distance,salmon fly distance. What I wanted to be able to do is compare thesewith modern tapers, that are stated on 5 in centers. Thanks to all that responded o and off the list. It was simple. Bob from jcollier@siu.edu Sun May 7 10:20:13 2000 Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treated strips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Any sources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn from flytyr@southshore.com Sun May 7 10:37:55 2000 Sun, 7 May 2000 10:45:19 -0500 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phil,I only do the rough planing with wet strips. The shavings come off like hotbutter. It does not seem to bother the wood.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Philip Bernick wrote: Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about my planingform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from flytyr@southshore.com Sun May 7 10:41:19 2000 Subject: Adam Adam H.Contact me off list, You did not give me your Eaddress.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun May 7 10:43:48 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 7 May 2000 10:44:04 -0500 Subject: Re: Silica Gel Edmund Scientific sells silica gel cartridges that work very well. They arebright blue when dry, and become pink when full of moisture. You can alsofind it in craft stores, where they sell flower drying supplies. This isloose crystals, that can also be dried in the kitchen oven. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treatedstrips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down.Anysources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun May 7 10:48:45 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 7 May 2000 10:47:26 -0500 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . It's my impression the a soaked strip is not so wet that it's drippingwater. I would think the strips after soaking, would retain a considerableamount of moisture, for quite sometime ? They are wet enough to giveeasierrough planing, but not literally oozing water...... correct ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phil,I only do the rough planing with wet strips. The shavings come off likehotbutter. It does not seem to bother the wood.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Philip Bernick wrote: Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about my planingform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from DNHayashida@aol.com Sun May 7 10:50:48 2000 Subject: Re: Silica Gel The cheapest place I have found silica gel is at crafts stores. It is sold inhuge 5 to 10 pound cans for a couple dollars per pound. Its used to dryflowers and leaves for those dried flower arrangements. By the way a microwave does a good job drying the silica gel out when it getssaturated.Darryl Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treated strips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Any sources you guys are aware of would be helpful. from caneman@clnk.com Sun May 7 10:54:41 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Sun, 7 May 2000 10:50:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Silica Gel John,Check out any local gun shows. I can almost always find a vendor at gunshows that sells different dessicants for gun safes. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treatedstrips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Anysources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun May 7 10:56:04 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 7 May 2000 10:57:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Hardy fiberglass blank I've never found it any different to do FG, or CF. I do usually use nylonthread. I quit using color preserver years ago, as a varnish fill makes themtougher, and last longer, without cracking. If you are doing a special order, then it means satisfying a customer. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hardy fiberglass blank Can I assume that finishing out a fiberglass blank is mostly the same asthe process for finishing out a bamboo blank minus the varnish? What isused over the wraps of a fiberglass blank? Any other recommendations ortips would be appreciated. I've never worked with glass or graphite, andwanted to verify the process before I accept a project. Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from flytyr@southshore.com Sun May 7 11:08:37 2000 Sun, 7 May 2000 11:16:05 -0500 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . I pull a strip out of the tube filled with water and it goes right on theroughplaning form.As for staying wet, you would be surprised as to how fast they dry out. Ifindthat if I don't soak for at least two days, just the outer pare of the stripiswet and with a few cutting strokes the strip gets harder to plane. Thismay notbe for everyone but it has worked well for me on the last ten rods.I did the first two rods "dry" and I don't think I will ever do another set ofstrips dry.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.comGeorge, has your E address changed. nobler wrote: It's my impression the a soaked strip is not so wet that it's drippingwater. I would think the strips after soaking, would retain aconsiderableamount of moisture, for quite sometime ? They are wet enough to giveeasierrough planing, but not literally oozing water...... correct ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Cc: Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 6:55 AMSubject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phil,I only do the rough planing with wet strips. The shavings come off likehotbutter. It does not seem to bother the wood.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Philip Bernick wrote: Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notionofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about myplaningform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Sun May 7 14:06:42 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Sun, 7 May 2000 19:06:08 +0000 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phillip, I have wooden forms and I wipe each strip down thoroughly when it comesout of the bath. The moisture remaining in the form actually helps tohold it in position in the wooden form. You would be surprised at howquickly the strips dry out. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO Philip Bernick wrote: Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about my planingform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from anglport@con2.com Sun May 7 15:15:09 2000 (SMTPD32-6.00) id ADF35370242; Sun, 07 May 2000 16:11:31 -0400 Subject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Mine ooze.Art At 10:49 AM 05/07/2000 -0500, nobler wrote:It's my impression the a soaked strip is not so wet that it's drippingwater. I would think the strips after soaking, would retain a considerableamount of moisture, for quite sometime ? They are wet enough to giveeasierrough planing, but not literally oozing water...... correct ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Cc: Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 6:55 AMSubject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phil,I only do the rough planing with wet strips. The shavings come off likehotbutter. It does not seem to bother the wood.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Philip Bernick wrote: Hi!I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and thenotion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about myplaningform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun May 7 16:06:33 2000 Subject: new technology?? Hi all,I was reading an advertisement in a fishing mag today aboutSages "new technology". I think it is the XP series (??). Seems theyhave discovered that by increasing the butt diameter you can shrink thetip diameter making the rod faster and the tip more sensitive and lessprone to breaking fine tippets! (sounds an awful lot like they aretrying to mimic bamboo qualities!)Wow, if only we bamboo guys would have thought of that yearsago! ;^)Does that make us swelled butt guys ahead of our time? We're pioneersDanny !!Still, the swelled butt graphite doesn't compare to a good canewand. I am sure it is still a lovely rod....LOLShawn from cheaney@nwol.net Sun May 7 16:17:02 2000 Subject: Heddon Deluxe President for Sale boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFB83F.E65F02E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFB83F.E65F02E0 I'm the one who contacted you last week about the old fly rods (two =H-I's and a Heddon) that belonged to my father. Since the rods have =been sitting in my attic for over 20 years, and a number of you have =convinced me that the Heddon Deluxe President is quite valuable, I have =decided to sell the rods. I would like your opinion on the best way to =sell all three rods if possible. Is e-bay the best vehicle for selling =the rods, or would I be better off selling through some fly fishing =publication? Is there an internet forum other than e-bay more specific =to sporting goods, fishing, or fly fishing? Thanks in advance for any =help you can give me. I have some jpeg images for anyone who is interested. This forum has a = Steve Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFB83F.E65F02E0 I'm the one who contacted you last week about the = been sitting in my attic for over 20 years, and a number of you have = me that the Heddon Deluxe President is quite valuable, I have decided to = internet forum other than e-bay more specific to sporting goods, = me. to this mailing. Steve =Cheaney ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFB83F.E65F02E0-- from timklein@uswest.net Sun May 7 17:43:53 2000 (63.225.240.103) Subject: Re: Tapers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB843.70EC09A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB843.70EC09A0 We're bamboo rod makers dammit! (we don't do anything the easy way if we can help it) ---Tim "I'm proud to pay taxes in the United States; the only thing is, I could =be just as proud for half the money"- Arthur Godfrey Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 2:50 AMSubject: Tapers I seem to be missing a basic concept here! What's new! If your planing =form has, as mine does, push-pull screw adjustment stations at 5" =centres, and you have a taper profile which gives measurements every 6",=why not just mark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink marker and =set the taper profile using your usual 5" screws while measuring with =the centre gauge at the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it =seemed to my perhaps fairly non-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have just said something really =stupid, but can't place just what.Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB843.70EC09A0 We're bamboo rod makers dammit! (we don't do anything the easy way if we can it) ---Tim "I'm proud to pay taxes in the United States; the only thing is, I = just as proud for half the money"- Arthur Godfrey ----- Original Message ----- petermckean Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 2:50=AMSubject: Tapers I seem to be missing a basic concept= new! If your planing form has, as mine does, push-pull screw = stations at 5" centres, and you have a taper profile which gives = every 6", why not just mark the 6" positions on your forms with an ink = and set the taper profile using your usual 5" screws while measuring = centre gauge at the marked 6" points. I have done this, and it seemed = perhaps fairly non-crirical eye, to work just fine.I have this eerie feeling that I have = something really stupid, but can't place just =what.Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BFB843.70EC09A0-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sun May 7 17:57:52 2000 0000 (204.186.211.2) Subject: Re: Heddon Deluxe President for Sale Cheaney wrote: I'm the one who contacted you last week about the old fly rods (twoH-I's and a Heddon) that belonged to my father. Since the rods havebeen sitting in my attic for over 20 years, and a number of you haveconvinced me that the Heddon Deluxe President is quite valuable, Ihave decided to sell the rods. I would like your opinion on the bestway to sell all three rods if possible. Is e- bay the best vehicle forselling the rods, or would I be better off selling through some flyfishing publication? Is there an internet forum other than e-bay morespecific to sporting goods, fishing, or fly fishing? Thanks inadvance for any help you can give me. I have some jpeg images for anyone who is interested. This forum hasa size limitation, so I can't attach them to this mailing. Steve CheaneyHi Steve, Yes Ebay or The Virtual Fly Shop WWW.flyshop.com . VFS isjust fly fishing and I like it better. Ebay has a bigger followingthough. Marty from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun May 7 19:54:31 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sun, 7 May 2000 20:52:27 Subject: RE: Silica Gel Try http://www.anachemiachemicals.com Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 11:22 AM Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treated strips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Any sources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn from teekay35@interlynx.net Sun May 7 20:27:33 2000 2E806BF46 Subject: lost my hard drive Came back from Corbett Lake this week to discover that my hard drive hadfailed. Lost every thing. If anyone was trying to contact me last fewdays, please send again. from gjm80301@yahoo.com Sun May 7 20:48:28 2000 2000 18:48:24 PDT Subject: RE: Silica Gel Try also: http://www.activa-products.com/ --- Richard Nantel wrote:Try http://www.anachemiachemicals.com Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu CollierSent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 11:22 AM Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treated strips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Any sources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun May 7 21:16:20 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers Peter,Sounds reasonable to me. Seems like some people like to make thingsmore complicated than they need be.Regards,Hank. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun May 7 21:16:57 2000 Subject: Re: Tapers rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu If you're using a mac you've got problems. As far as replicating goes, none of us has done it precisely anyway.Hank. from saweiss@flash.net Sun May 7 23:21:11 2000 Subject: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Those who use McCloskey's Man 'O War may have noticed the new labelingandnew stock number (6509) on recent cans. With great effort , I managed tofind one gallon of the old stock, number (1234). I called the manufacturerand learned that the new stuff has been reformulated to meet OSHA regs.Theyhave changed both the solids and the volatile components, so I guess thatit's not the good old stuff anymore.Steve from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Mon May 8 03:47:51 2000 Subject: PHY The Midge 3C257FA96799955110204205" --------------3C257FA96799955110204205 To all..... I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend.... UNBELIEVABLE!!!! ithandled a HEHsilk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod withonly 10-15m, and castedbeautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line, andit make sense, regarding theparabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also will handlea HGH (#5) for close workI was thinking about making this rod for a lighter line (#3), if so,I`ll have to make it for a #2.... This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommend it to all who need a rod regardsdanny --------------3C257FA96799955110204205 To all..... I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend....UNBELIEVABLE!!!!it handled a HEHsilk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod withonly 10-15m, and castedbeautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line,and it make sense, regarding theparabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also will handlea HGH (#5) for close work if so, I`ll have to make it for a #2.... This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommendit to all who need a rod regardsdanny --------------3C257FA96799955110204205-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon May 8 07:02:53 2000 Mon, 8 May 2000 20:02:45 +0800 Mon, 8 May 2000 20:02:42 +0800 Subject: Re: PHY The Midge The Midge is an amazing little rod. Could not believe the distance I castthefirst time I lawn cast one and amazing quick and handy in close.Pocket Rocket indeed.All hail the Master PHY!Tony At 10:57 AM 5/8/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote: To all..... I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend.... UNBELIEVABLE!!!! ithandled a HEH silk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod with only10-15m, and casted beautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line, and itmake sense, regarding the parabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also will handle aHGH (#5) for close work I was thinking about making this rod for a lighter line (#3), if so, I`llhave to make it for a #2.... This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommend itto all who need a rod regards danny /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Mon May 8 08:49:06 2000 0400 Subject: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Does that mean that the new stuff isn't as good or just that it is anunknown? Andy -----Original Message----- Subject: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Those who use McCloskey's Man 'O War may have noticed the new labelingandnew stock number (6509) on recent cans. With great effort , I managedtofind one gallon of the old stock, number (1234). I called themanufacturerand learned that the new stuff has been reformulated to meet OSHAregs. Theyhave changed both the solids and the volatile components, so I guessthatit's not the good old stuff anymore.Steve from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon May 8 09:04:03 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 8 May 2000 09:05:02 -0500 Subject: Re: PHY The Midge I've fished mine with WF - 5 to 40' - 50', without feeling it was overloaded, and it will shoot further. They are amazing ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: PHY The Midge The Midge is an amazing little rod. Could not believe the distance I castthefirst time I lawn cast one and amazing quick and handy in close.Pocket Rocket indeed.All hail the Master PHY!Tony At 10:57 AM 5/8/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote: To all..... I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend.... UNBELIEVABLE!!!! ithandled a HEHsilk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod withonly10-15m, and castedbeautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line, anditmake sense, regarding theparabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also will handleaHGH (#5) for close workI was thinking about making this rod for a lighter line (#3), if so,I`llhave to make it for a #2.... This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommend itto all who need a rod regardsdanny /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from saweiss@flash.net Mon May 8 09:09:20 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Right now, for us, I guess that it's an unknown. Folks will be using somesoon, and hopefully we will hear from them.Steve Does that mean that the new stuff isn't as good or just that it is anunknown?Andy Those who use McCloskey's Man 'O War may have noticed the new labelingandnew stock number (6509) on recent cans. With great effort , I managed tofind one gallon of the old stock, number (1234). I called the manufacturerand learned that the new stuff has been reformulated to meet OSHA regs.Theyhave changed both the solids and the volatile components, so I guess thatit's not the good old stuff anymore.Steve from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Mon May 8 09:36:51 2000 Mon, 8 May 2000 10:36:40 -0400 p.a.bernick@ieee.org Subject: RE: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Does the moisture entering the wooden form swell the wood so that youhaveto re-set the gap? -----Original Message-----From: Steve Trauthwein [SMTP:saltwein@worldnet.att.net]Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 5:07 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: soaking bamboo - and some academic stuff . . . Phillip, I have wooden forms and I wipe each strip down thoroughly when itcomesout of the bath. The moisture remaining in the form actually helps tohold it in position in the wooden form. You would be surprised at howquickly the strips dry out. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO Philip Bernick wrote: Hi! I've been following the discussion on soaking bamboo, and the notion ofworking with soaked strips appeals to me. But I worry about my planingform. Wood forms absorb water and swell, and steel rusts. How do youprotect your forms from the effects of water in the soaked strips? Thanks, philip from mevans@acxiom.com Mon May 8 09:42:30 2000 (router,SLMail V4.1 (BETA 2)); Mon, 08 May 2000 09:44:45 -0500 3 Candidate)) with SMTP (router,SLMail V3.2); Mon, 08 May 2000 09:33:40 -0500 (204.107.111.23::mail daemon; unverified,SLMail V3.2); Mon, 08 May2000 09:33:39 -0500 popmail.conway.acxiom.com ; Mon May 08 09:33:35 2000 -0500 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Silica Gel Try some of your local drug stores - ask the pharmacist. They gave me a couple of handfuls of the stuff from theirbulk medicine shipments. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Silica Gel Try also: http://www.activa-products.com/ --- Richard Nantel wrote:Try http://www.anachemiachemicals.com Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu CollierSent: Sunday, May 07, 2000 11:22 AM Subject: Silica Gel Hey guys, I'm trying to find some silica gel to keep some heat treated strips dry. However, I'm having a hard time tracking this stuff down. Any sources you guys are aware of would be helpful. ThanksJohn __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Mon May 8 11:33:37 2000 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id LAA19498 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id LAA15225 for Subject: Alternative to drip tube I had an idea for an alternative to a varnish drip tube for thosewho don't have the headroom for a dip tube. It might not be originalbut I don't recall seeing it here. You need a clear plastic tube for the rod with a small nipple orfitting at the bottom (maybe 3/8 inch or so), a reservoir can for the varnish with a similar nipple attached near its bottom, and several feet of flexible tube to connect the two. Then instead of filling the tube from the top and draining from the bottom, just raise and lowerthe reservoir to fill and drain. You will need something sturdier than an old trout reel to raiseand lower the reservoir. (Maybe you have an old Fin-Nor tarpon reel lying around?) There are no doubt some problems that will arise in implementation,but I think the concept is OK........................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot- warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon May 8 12:10:06 2000 Subject: Multipiece cane rods and ferrules I have been working on a 6 ft. 3 weight taper - 5 piece. Using stresscurves to modelthe taper, and actually making the thing (4 ferrules just about bankruptedthe hobbybudget), I have come to a rather startling conclusion. As far as action isconcerned,ferrules cancel themselves out. The extra weight of the ferrules iscancelled by the"flat spot" of the ferrules below (closer to the handle). A ferrule is anarea of extreme stiffness for the 2 to 3 inches occupied by the ferrule, and that stiff areamakes up for the extra weight of the ferrules farther up the rod. A word of caution though - I did this to a (what else?) Sir D taper, whichis on thefaster side. Most of the taper is well below the breakage stress level. Ifyou tryto make a parabolic or slow rod into a multipiece you might exceed thesafe stresslevel. This brings a fundamental problem to mind though. Stress curves havebeen handlingferrules incorrectly. They account for the extra weight in the forcemoments, but do nothing about the extra stiffness they impart to the taper. My guess isthat with one ortwo ferrules the difference wasn't that noticeable, but with four ferrulesit becamenoticeable. Which also leads me to another conclusion - all two piece canerods areparabolic to a small extent. The ferrule is an area of no flexing, giving astiffer thanintended mid-section - a parabolic.Darryl from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon May 8 12:18:10 2000 Subject: Re: Alternative to drip tube I haven't heard of anybody actually doing it, but oneof the replies to my original post about the drip tubeway back in 1995 suggested using a sealed bag or bladderconnected by a tube and raising and lowering the bladder so that air contact and gelling of the varnish waseliminated. Darryl from brookie@frii.com Mon May 8 12:43:44 2000 Subject: Re: Multipiece cane rods and ferrules If I might step into it again (speaking of which, where is Ackland thesedays ? *G*) .... I use multi piece rods out here in Colorado. Do a fair amount ofbackpacking and bushwhacking for the day. Usually will have a kid withme, and along with me, they too are packing in multi piece rod. Thesmaller the rod case the better. But we take in lower-end graphite.You stumble, it breaks, no great loss. On the other hand, if I travel onairlines, not important to have anything in the 15-25" for a rod case. Which leads me to my observation/question. What's the point of the 5- 6piece cane rods ? Do you or your buying customers really get into thebackcountry with their cane rods and need these multi-piece rods ? Or isthis a niche market, or maybe "lets-see-if-it-can-be-done" thing ? Personally, it's my observation that w/any of the multi piecers I have, the'action' is thwarted by all the connecting points. just curious,in colorado/ Sue from mschaffer@mindspring.com Mon May 8 12:48:53 2000 Subject: Help with ferrule lengths boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002E_01BFB8F3.E88D47C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BFB8F3.E88D47C0 Guys,I need your input about what length of ferrules to use for what length =rods. I realize that the ferrules come in basically regular length =(long), medium length (supposedly Bailey Woods brand--haven't seen any) =and truncated (short). So, what determines which length you will use for =any certain rod? Clueless as usual, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BFB8F3.E88D47C0 Guys,I need your input about what length of= regular length (long), medium length (supposedly Bailey Woods = seen any) and truncated (short). So, what determines which length you = Clueless as usual, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BFB8F3.E88D47C0-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon May 8 13:05:20 2000 Internet Mail Serversims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 8 May 2000 14:02:37 Subject: RE: Multipiece cane rods and ferrules If I might step into it again (speaking of which, where isAckland thesedays ? *G*) .... Terry's in full rod production mode right now. I'll pass on your collectivegood wishes. Richard from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon May 8 13:10:23 2000 Subject: Re: Help with ferrule lengths Full length ferrules are the strongest. I use fulllength for 2 piece, truncated ferrules for multipiece rods, for no really good reason except I like the lookof truncated ferrules on multipiece rods.Darryl from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Mon May 8 13:10:56 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP ;Mon, 8 May 2000 18:10:15 +0000 Rodmakers Subject: Re: soaking bamboo Seth Steinzor wrote: Does the moisture entering the wooden form swell the wood so that youhaveto re-set the gap? I don't do final planing with wet strips, so the question is academic.After I heat treat I reset my forms to the final dimension and then plnethe .020 to .030 off that I left on to heat treat. Regards, Steve from caneman@clnk.com Mon May 8 13:12:06 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Mon, 8 May 2000 13:07:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Multipiece cane rods and ferrules boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0168_01BFB8EE.C4DE6660" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0168_01BFB8EE.C4DE6660 Sue wrote: Can't answer that one, I limit my rods to 3 pc. and mostly build ="short" rods, so I have no needto go with 5 or 6 pieces... not even 4 for that matter. Do you or your buying customers really get into the backcountry with =their cane rods and need these multi-piece rods ? Or is this a niche =market, or maybe "lets-see-if-it-can-be-done" thing ? Yep, I pack in with cane. The one that I consider my = 4 wt. I have built several of these for customers and as a = this morning... to be used for a 'pack rod' in Colorado. Only = in 4 or 5 pc configurations is that I am pretty much a short rod = suggest for use, the shorter rods. Even going out to 7 ft, your = inch long case with a three pc... not bad to pack in and fits on = Personally, it's my observation that w/any of the multi piecers I have, =the 'action' is thwarted by all the connecting points.Can't speak for the 4 or 5 pc rods, but significant change in = 3 pc. Of course, the taper is slightly different than that of a =2 pc rod the same length. Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0168_01BFB8EE.C4DE6660 Sue wrote: I = need matter. Do you or your buying customers really get into the = = ? The one that I consider my "backpacking rod" that is a 6' 3 pc = have = several of these for customers and as a matter of fact shipped a 6' 3p =3w that I am pretty much a short rod fanatic and prefer to build and pc... not bad to pack in and fits on my Harley just fine! Personally, it's my observation that w/any of the multi= points. change in action isn't a problem going to a taper is slightly different than that of a 2 pc rod the = length. Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0168_01BFB8EE.C4DE6660-- from Troutgetter@aol.com Mon May 8 13:42:35 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar In a message dated 05/07/2000 9:23:44 PM PDT, saweiss@flash.netwrites: Steve, You may have caught my posts a couple of weeks ago re: this. I had just built a new tube and two quarts of new varnish, Man-O-War. I dippedthe butt section and hund to dry overnight. The next morning I spit coffee all over the place when I opened the cabinet. There were ripples the lookedlike a ladder on each flat from top to bottom. I sanded everything down and finally found some old formulation in a little neighborhood hardwarestore. There was no trouble using the old formulation at all. Hope this helps,Mike from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 8 13:51:44 2000 12:02:21 PDT Subject: re: Help with ferrule lengths Mike, Typically someone would go with full length on a two piece and truncatedon multi piece rods, like Darryl said. I usually do three piecers with standard at the butt/mid and truncated at the mid/tip. Most recently the newBellinger ferrules are a 3/4 length and fit the bill for both applications. They have a nice knurl around the welt as well. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- Guys,I need your input about what length of ferrules to use for what lengthrods. I realize that the ferrules come in basically regular length (long), medium length (supposedly Bailey Woods brand--haven't seen any) and truncated (short). So, what determines which length you will use for any certainrod? Clueless as usual, Mike from horsesho@ptd.net Mon May 8 16:53:14 2000 0000 (204.186.33.162) Subject: Bellinger roughing beveler Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty from rsgould@cmc.net Mon May 8 17:03:24 2000 Subject: The Corbett Lake Workshop 2000 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002F_01BFB8FE.6AF97300" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01BFB8FE.6AF97300 Hi Gang,Well, it's over and what a success it was! The workshop was full with =participants from Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, British Columbia, =Alberta, Alaska, Virginia, New York, California, New Jersey, Colorado, =Nevada, Illinois, Ontario, Pennsylvania, Germany, Missouri, and =Deleware. It was special for me to meet Mike Biondo who has so much to =do with this rodmakers list, Hoagy Carmichael whose book got so many of=us started and Ted Knott whom I only knew by email. What amazes memost =of all is how I always learn something new and different even though =this is the 9th workshop I've attended. The presentations were excellent =and watching really good casters like Ron Grantham and Don Andersonwork =my rods was an eye opener. Several of us were able to chase the wily =Kamloops trout after the workshop was over and enjoyed the fruits of our=labors. So, it's back to the bench, there's some new work to be done!!Ray ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01BFB8FE.6AF97300 Hi Gang,Well, it's over and what a success it = workshop was full with participants from Washington, Oregon, Idaho, = British Columbia, Alberta, Alaska, Virginia, New York, California, New = Colorado, Nevada, Illinois, Ontario, Pennsylvania, Germany, Missouri, = Deleware. It was special for me to meet Mike Biondo who has so much to = this rodmakers list, Hoagy Carmichael whose book got so many of us = Ted Knott whom I only knew by email. What amazes me most of all is howI = learn something new and different even though this is the 9th workshop = attended. The presentations were excellent and watching really good = Ron Grantham and Don Anderson work my rods was an eye opener. Severalof = able to chase the wily Kamloops trout after the workshop was over and = the fruits of our labors. So, it's back to the bench, there's some new = be done!!Ray ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01BFB8FE.6AF97300-- from TSmithwick@aol.com Mon May 8 17:37:31 2000 Subject: Re: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old. (Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearing surface with the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout. I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatile oils back in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should do it. I don't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing is as good as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish I curse the government for protecting me. from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 8 18:09:44 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic. Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked. Iam sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. It really makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoid carpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years of experience. There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon May 8 18:22:17 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 8 May 2000 18:23:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler Does Bellinger have a web site ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic. Verynice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked. Iam sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. Itreally makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoidcarpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience.There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon May 8 18:36:09 2000 Mon, 8 May 2000 20:35:36 -0300 Subject: Re: PHY The Midge boundary="------------626F64AC0E87A327EA0FFD1E" --------------626F64AC0E87A327EA0FFD1E I've slowly been building a midge as a quad, can't wait to try it out ifI ever get a chance to finish it! I'm also going to build it as a hexlater. Shawn Danny Twang wrote: To all..... I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend.... UNBELIEVABLE!!!!it handled a HEHsilk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod withonly 10-15m, and castedbeautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line, andit make sense, regarding theparabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also willhandle a HGH (#5) for close workI was thinking about making this rod for a lighter line (#3), if so,I`ll have to make it for a #2.... This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommend it to all who need a rod regardsdanny --------------626F64AC0E87A327EA0FFD1E I've slowly been building a midge as a quad, can't wait to try it out ifI ever get a chance to finish it! I'm also going to build it as a hex later. ShawnDanny Twang wrote: I took my last rod out to test cast this weekend....UNBELIEVABLE!!!!it handled a HEHsilk line with ease. I decided to try my WF#3, it loaded the rod withonly 10-15m, and castedbeautiful tight loops. It felt a bit faster with the lighter line,and it make sense, regarding theparabolic action.In an old catalog from PHY, it says it also will handlea HGH (#5) for close work if so, I`ll have to make it for a #2....This is the perfect rod for all my smallstream fishing, and I`llrecommendit to all who need a rod regardsdanny --------------626F64AC0E87A327EA0FFD1E-- from tklein@amgen.com Mon May 8 18:43:48 2000 smtp.amgen.com via smap (V4.2) (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Bellinger roughing beveler Bob, As an owner of a Morgan Handmill, is this something you would look at asanaddition to your workshop one day or do you save enough time using thehandmill that you would consider it overkill? (In other words, are you coveting your neighbor's beveler?) ----------From: bob maulucci[SMTP:bob@downandacross.com] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic. Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked. I am sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. It really makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoid carpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience. There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 8 18:49:26 2000 17:00:07 PDT Subject: re: Bellinger roughing beveler Hi Marty, It is a well built machine and will serve you well. I've only used this one and an early Whitehead style beveler that you feed the strip alternatingthe side to be cut. The Bellinger cuts both sides simultaneously. You can split out squares, flatten and straighten the nodes and the machine will makenice little triangles from there. If you are going to make many rods and your time is limited or you are selling rods, it is a valuable tool. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon May 8 19:29:49 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 8 May 2000 19:30:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler Not having seen a Morgan in action, I can't comment with knowledge. Iwouldlike to see the difference in the Bellinger binder, as compared with say,Garrison's. It does seem that for those who build for sale, anything thatspeeds up production is a benefit. It's the final planing and fitting, andfinishing that makes quality product. At any rate I would like to see it, if Bellinger has a web site. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Bellinger roughing beveler Bob, As an owner of a Morgan Handmill, is this something you would look at asanaddition to your workshop one day or do you save enough time using thehandmill that you would consider it overkill? (In other words, are you coveting your neighbor's beveler?) ----------From: bob maulucci[SMTP:bob@downandacross.com] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic.Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked.I am sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. Itreally makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoidcarpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience.There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine andwhatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from channer1@rmi.net Mon May 8 19:42:01 2000 Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler marty wrote: Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine and whatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. MartyMarty; fabricator and a little ingenuity you can build a roughing beveler andsave about $1100.00. I did and it works just fine.John from channer1@rmi.net Mon May 8 19:44:49 2000 Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler nobler wrote: Not having seen a Morgan in action, I can't comment with knowledge. Iwouldlike to see the difference in the Bellinger binder, as compared with say,Garrison's. It does seem that for those who build for sale, anything thatspeeds up production is a benefit. It's the final planing and fitting, andfinishing that makes quality product. At any rate I would like to see it, if Bellinger has a web site. GMA----- Original Message ----- George;You can see pictures at www.goldenwitch.com, Russ Gooding deals all ofBellinger's products and has good pictures.John from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 8 19:45:15 2000 17:55:57 PDT Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler GMA, Bellinger's website is http://www.oregonlink.com/bellinger/index.html There is only a picture of the finish beveler at this site, in addition to reels and reelseats, so it's not much help to you. I believe there are pictures of the roughing beveler and the binder at the Golden Witch site http://www.goldenwitch.com/products.htm Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu---------- Original Text ---------- Not having seen a Morgan in action, I can't comment with knowledge. Iwouldlike to see the difference in the Bellinger binder, as compared with say,Garrison's. It does seem that for those who build for sale, anything thatspeeds up production is a benefit. It's the final planing and fitting, andfinishing that makes quality product. At any rate I would like to see it, if Bellinger has a web site. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Bellinger roughing beveler Bob, As an owner of a Morgan Handmill, is this something you would look at asanaddition to your workshop one day or do you save enough time using thehandmill that you would consider it overkill? (In other words, are you coveting your neighbor's beveler?) ----------From: bob maulucci[SMTP:bob@downandacross.com] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic.Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked.I am sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. Itreally makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoidcarpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience.There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine andwhatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 8 19:55:27 2000 18:06:10 PDT Subject: Bellinger/Garrison binder comparison GMA, To answer your question further about the Bellinger binder vs. theGarrison style. The Bellinger is similar in style to the Garrison with some improvements. You could probably set the Bellinger binder up on yourliving room coffee table and live to tell about it. Al's products are always high on the quality/cosmetic scale, given the obvious limitations to how prettya binder can actually be. The functional differences are primarily that the binding belt is not a continous loop, so it will not slip. Also the rod supports are thick and smoothed which prevents marring of your rod. Parts are top shelf in terms of material. I don't currently own one, but haveseen them in use, so my opinions are from observation, not from actual use. Tomy knowledge they can only be purchased via Golden Witch, and Russ Gooding should be able to answer further questions and details. Hope that helpssome. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from channer1@rmi.net Mon May 8 19:56:05 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Tom(or anyone else who has a clue);If I go around town and buy up all the old stuff I can afford/get myhands on, how long can I expect this stuff to last unopened in the can?the last time I looked in the varnish departments of the lumber yardsand hardware store around here, there were at least 5 gallons and quitea few quarts in stock, of course, with my luck it will all be gone bynow.John TSmithwick@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: unknown? >> Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should do it.Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish Icurse the government for protecting me. from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 8 20:54:55 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: RE: Bellinger roughing beveler I would definitely consider buying one if I did not have the Hand Mill. But, I don't need to pump out rods, and the Hand Mill gives me good angles. Therefore, I don't really feel the need for one. I also have some noise constraints with a small daughter who sleeps while I putter about in the shop. The beveller is not too loud, but I like wet strips on the Hand Mill just fine.I don't see the Hand Mill as being as fast as some can get out of it, but I can tell you that the 3 sets of strips I just glued up (first sets) are pretty darn good.My .02,Bob At 04:42 PM 5/8/00 -0700, you wrote:Bob, As an owner of a Morgan Handmill, is this something you would look at asanaddition to your workshop one day or do you save enough time using thehandmill that you would consider it overkill? (In other words, are you coveting your neighbor's beveler?) ----------From: bob maulucci[SMTP:bob@downandacross.com] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic.Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it all worked.I am sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. Itreally makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoidcarpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience.There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine andwhatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing some usersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 8 20:58:13 2000 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler Bellinger does have a site http://www.oregonlink.com/bellinger/, but it is only for the reel seats. See the Golden Witch site for the rest. I think Russ has the exclusive rights to distribution of the bevellers and such.The main difference between the Bellinger and Garrison binder is that the Bellinger one has two spools in the handle that feed the drive belt, so there is no loop. See the GW site for a pic. It really does work nicely.Bob At 07:32 PM 5/8/00 -0500, you wrote:Not having seen a Morgan in action, I can't comment with knowledge. Iwouldlike to see the difference in the Bellinger binder, as compared with say,Garrison's. It does seem that for those who build for sale, anything thatspeeds up production is a benefit. It's the final planing and fitting, andfinishing that makes quality product. At any rate I would like to see it, if Bellinger has a web site. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Klein, Tim" Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 6:42 PMSubject: RE: Bellinger roughing beveler Bob, As an owner of a Morgan Handmill, is this something you would look atasanaddition to your workshop one day or do you save enough time using thehandmill that you would consider it overkill? (In other words, are you coveting your neighbor's beveler?) ----------From: bob maulucci[SMTP:bob@downandacross.com] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler I got a demo Saturday at list member, Joe Perrigo's. It is fantastic.Very nice accurate strips. I was stunned at how fast and clean it allworked.I am sure this will help Joe put out some more of his fantastic rods. Itreally makes the process go along better. It also will help you avoidcarpal tunnel. (sp?)As usual, Al Bellinger has built a fine tool using his years ofexperience.There is no substitute for that. I have a binder from him, and it isfantastic.Maybe Joe will add some details.Best regards,Bob M. At 05:49 PM 5/8/00 -0400, you wrote:Hi all, I am thinking of purchasing a Bellinger rough out beveler andwould like to know if anyone out there is using such a machine andwhatthey think of it. $1400 is alot to dish out without hearing someusersopinions. I figure I will get a time savings in rough planing and ofcourse sharpening the plane blades. Marty Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from FlyfishT@aol.com Mon May 8 21:38:11 2000 Subject: Re: speaking of bevelers Rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Hi all, just wanted to mention that one can be made for about $200. I just madeone a couple of weeks ago. It was $160 for the router, maybe $40 for hardwareand steel. It works well and fast. It's pretty much the same as the one in the Best of the Planing Form by Bob Milward, I believe. I changed a few things. The rollers, instead of vertically, I made them on a slant _ this gives less resistance when sliding strips through. I also made a plastic shield around the area for protection of fingers and also to create a box to hold in the shavings. There is a hole through the back hooked to a vacuum cleaner that draws the shavings out. If anyone is interested, I could email you a picture when I get the pictures back. I just thought this might be of interest.Tom n. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Mon May 8 22:06:11 2000 Subject: Re: Multipiece cane rods and ferrules Darryl,I've thought that the ferrule's weight was cancelled by it's stiffness another reason to be wary of the givens in any computer program. I'll use hexrod comparisons but not for designing tapers. Now, mind you, I get somedoozies that never see the light of day now and again with the old graph paper.Also, some of my tapers are outside the stress parameters that arecoventional- so far with no ill effects.I certainly enjoy your posts.Thanks,Hank. from TSmithwick@aol.com Mon May 8 22:12:44 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar John - I do not have a clue as to sealed shelf life of varnish. Sorry.I should have mentioned that mineral spirits or turpentine is the source of the volatile oils. from saweiss@flash.net Mon May 8 23:19:23 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar What kind of volatile oils do you use?Steve Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should doit. Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish Icurse the government for protecting me. from bh887@lafn.org Tue May 9 00:08:45 2000 forged)) (envelope- from bh887@lafn.org) Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Been reading the mail on the new McCloskey formulation and scaringmyself.My can of it has NO numbers at all! As for the volatile oil additives, manyyears ago I built and flew model airplanes covered in DOPED silk. I alwaysadded Castor Oil to the dope mix, about two eyedroppers full to a pint.Gave a beautiful luster and a flexible coating. Anyone tried that withvarnish? Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar What kind of volatile oils do you use?Steve Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as theold.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should doit. Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnishIcurse the government for protecting me. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue May 9 03:47:57 2000 Subject: Grips I had an idea and thought I would ask you guys your opinion. Whilesearching for rattan here in Nova Scotia, I wondered what kind of gripleather would make? If it was cut in uniform strips, soaked then wrappedover epoxy covered cork it seems as if it would be durable andattractive. I don't know what type of sealing this would require, but Iwould assume just a oiling now and then would do? Has this ever beendone before? Any comments?Shawn from grau@buchlang.com Tue May 9 04:09:17 2000 Subject: Re: Grips-Leather Dear Shawn Leather is a wonderful material for winding cork-grips - i made severlarodsin this manner. Note one thing - better use not "real-leather", becausewhenit`s wet, it beguns to stink, otherwise you must impregnate it very good(spray available in shoe-stores).I buy the leather in hobby-stores an glue it simple on the grip with epoxy. Regards Stefan Shawn Pineo schrieb: I had an idea and thought I would ask you guys your opinion. Whilesearching for rattan here in Nova Scotia, I wondered what kind of gripleather would make? If it was cut in uniform strips, soaked thenwrappedover epoxy covered cork it seems as if it would be durable andattractive. I don't know what type of sealing this would require, but Iwould assume just a oiling now and then would do? Has this ever beendone before? Any comments?Shawn --Lang Info AccessDatenbanken - CD Rom - InternetliteraturInternet: http://www.buchlang.com/infoaccess/Stefan GrauInformation ConsultantMènzgraben 2CH-3011 Berne/SwitzerlandPhone: 031 310 84 84direct phone: ++41 ( 0 ) 31 310 84 78fax: 310 84 94ausgenommen:Montag vormittag,Dienstag nachmittagMittwoch ganzer Tag---------------------------------------------------------------Sicherheits-Hinweis: Diese elektronische Post ist nur fèr den oder die Empf€nger, welchein der Adress-Zeile genannt werden bestimmt!Falls Sie nicht zu diesen gehåren, verståsst jede- unerlaubte Kopie,- unerlaubte Weiterleitung,- unerlaubte Kenntnisnahme, auch vermutlich oeffentlicher Inhalte,- und unerlaubte Verbreitung der enthaltenen Nachricht(en),sowie jeder anderer unautorisierte Gebrauch gegen geltendes Recht. Falls Sie nicht zu den in der Adresszeile genannten Empf€nger(n) gehåren,so bitten wir Sie um Kontaktnahme des Absenders und Zerstårungder betreffenden Daten von Ihrem Computer._________________________________________ Security-Note: The information transmitted is intended only for the personor entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidentialand/or privileged material.Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, ortaking of any action in reliance upon, this information bypersons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited.If you received this in error, please contact the sender and deletethe material from any computer. from caneman@clnk.com Tue May 9 04:35:41 2000 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Tue, 9 May 2000 04:31:38 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Grips Shawn,Never tried it and never even considered it. I do know that many veryexpensive custom Cue Sticks have leather wrapped grips instead of Linen(thestandard). I have a McDermott Cue that is leather wrapped that gets usedalmost as much as my fly rods, and the leather is in great shape afternearly 15 years. All I do is clean it occasionally, BUT, then again, itisn't exposed to the same kind of environment that a fly rod handle wouldbe. Another thought occurred. My father had a hunting knife, the handle ofwhich was made from discs of leather, much the way our grips are madeofdiscs of cork. God only knows how old this hunting knife is, probably 50plus years, and talk about some terrible conditions, it sure has seen them.Hmmmm... given a lot of food for thought here. It may be a little heavierthan cork, but talk about classy looking! Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Grips I had an idea and thought I would ask you guys your opinion. Whilesearching for rattan here in Nova Scotia, I wondered what kind of gripleather would make? If it was cut in uniform strips, soaked then wrappedover epoxy covered cork it seems as if it would be durable andattractive. I don't know what type of sealing this would require, but Iwould assume just a oiling now and then would do? Has this ever beendone before? Any comments?Shawn from sniderja@email.uc.edu Tue May 9 07:46:03 2000 Subject: 6' 3 pc. 4 wt I would like to build a 6' to 6'3" 4 (or 5) wt in a 3 pc for my summergrayling research project. Any recommendations? I just recently built the Smithwick 5'6" 5 wt, extending it to a 6'0" 2 pc.It casts a 5 wt fine, but turns out to be a real mean 6 wt, and casts likea bullet out to 70'. Just spent 4 days in the Smokies trying it out (not at70'!). Five or six folks tried out the rod, and about the only comment was,"Geez, I didn't know that a bamboo rod could cast like a graphite! This isneat." I suppose they thought this was a compliment--I felt otherwise. Therod came in at 2 3/4 oz. but doesn't feel that heavy since most of the wtis in the reel seat and hardware. I was using an agateen stripper guide and one of the (sorry!) new coated(lubricated?) fly lines. The most annoying thing was that the line, whenwet, made a rather horrible musical(?) noise as it passed through theguide. (When dry it doesn't do this.) I switched to a non-lubricated lineand the sound didn't occur. Any similar experiences? J. Snider from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Tue May 9 08:14:44 2000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: 6' 3 pc. 4 wt Jerry, No doubt about it, built the Midge. I just finished mine, its a cannon. I emptied a DT4 from my reel, and I'mnot aexperiencedcaster, the little Ike did all the work.I`ve built mine as a 2 piece, but since this is a parabolic rod, the ferruleswill end up at the swell in the rod....There is a 3 piece version listed in Frank Stetzers archive..... regardsdanny Jerry Snider wrote: I would like to build a 6' to 6'3" 4 (or 5) wt in a 3 pc for my summergrayling research project. Any recommendations?I just recently built the Smithwick 5'6" 5 wt, extending it to a 6'0" 2 pc.It casts a 5 wt fine, but turns out to be a real mean 6 wt, and casts likea bullet out to 70'. Just spent 4 days in the Smokies trying it out (not at70'!). Five or six folks tried out the rod, and about the only comment was,"Geez, I didn't know that a bamboo rod could cast like a graphite! This isneat." I suppose they thought this was a compliment--I felt otherwise.Therod came in at 2 3/4 oz. but doesn't feel that heavy since most of the wtis in the reel seat and hardware.I was using an agateen stripper guide and one of the (sorry!) new coated(lubricated?) fly lines. The most annoying thing was that the line, whenwet, made a rather horrible musical(?) noise as it passed through theguide. (When dry it doesn't do this.) I switched to a non-lubricated lineand the sound didn't occur. Any similar experiences?J. Snider from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue May 9 08:30:55 2000 Subject: Fwd: speaking of bevelers boundary="part1_38.5a8f77a.26496cea_boundary" --part1_38.5a8f77a.26496cea_boundary --part1_38.5a8f77a.26496cea_boundary Full-name: Eastkoyfly Subject: Re: speaking of bevelers To All,Yes you can make a beveller for $250,but it will still take you some time to rough the strips. With my Bellinger I can rough a two pc two tiprod in under 20min and with help from my wife I can do it in just under15min.The Bellinger cuts both sides at one time.You get what you pay for.Joseph a Perrigo II --part1_38.5a8f77a.26496cea_boundary-- from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue May 9 08:31:20 2000 Subject: Fwd: Bellinger roughing beveler boundary="part1_f.38b6837.26496cff_boundary" --part1_f.38b6837.26496cff_boundary --part1_f.38b6837.26496cff_boundary Full-name: Eastkoyfly Subject: Re: Bellinger roughing beveler Marty,The machine is very well made. It is accurate within 005" that ismuch better than I can do roughing by hand or with a router. I believe the cutters will last for 20 rods or so and from M.C.S the cost for new ones is about $155, you can get them sharpened but make sure the person sharpeningknows what they are doing so you don't lose your angles! The Bellinger is veryeasy to operate, I ran one test strip thru and that was all the testing I needed,I then banged out three 2pc 2tip rods in about an hour and twenty min[after splitting and node pressing].The time savings is worth the cost and for me will pay for it self very quickly.Good LuckJoseph A Perrigo --part1_f.38b6837.26496cff_boundary-- from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue May 9 08:35:36 2000 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re[2]: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar To add a little more info to the mix, FWIW. I was in a paint/varnish supplier here yesterday and was looking at some P&L Vitralyte UV Spar and asked the owner about reformulations mandated by OSHA. He saidthe P&L had not been reformulated because it already contained a high amount of solids and thus did not exceed the limits on VOC's (volatile organics). He said the ones that required reformulation were those that used a large amount of thinners or other solvents in their formulas and thus released lots of vapors. As Tom mentions below, adding back some of these may help. However, I don't know what else they may have added to make up for the components that were removedso your end product may yet be different and not behave as you would prefer.$0.02Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Author: at Internet-Mail In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old. (Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearing surface with the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout. I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatile oils back in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should do it. I don't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing is as good as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish I curse the government for protecting me. from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue May 9 09:06:00 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 9 May 2000 08:53:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Re[2]: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar OSHA has reared its ugly head in more than one industry ! It's ourgovernment at work again. Dope used in the construction of aircraft, bothfull scale and model size, has been drastically altered to fit OSHAstandards. Auto lacquer is hard to find in any store today. These OSHApeople haven't a clue, as to what a decent product needs, and only wesuffer. Many in OSHA look at the solvents used as just another way of glueor paint spray sniffing, for teens. How it affects the normal adult in hiswork place is totally ignored ! Our varnishes are no different I'm sure. Valspar has long been a standardinthis part of the Southwest. I have a new quart, but haven't tried it yet.Certainly some new finishes have advanced the state of the art in manyrespects. It may pay us all to look at another way of applying these newfinishes, to get the desired results. The comment about using castor oil as a plasticizer is valid for nitratebased dopes, but causes bad blushing to a white surface, if used inbutyrates. It takes a certain refinement of castor to mix properly with thesolvents used in varnish too. The medicinal type will not mix with many ofthese solvents. Besides varnishes have a more naturally flexible trait. GMA ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re[2]: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar To add a little more info to the mix, FWIW. I was in a paint/varnishsupplier here yesterday and was looking at some P&L Vitralyte UVSparand asked the owner about reformulations mandated by OSHA. He saidtheP&L had not been reformulated because it already contained a highamount of solids and thus did not exceed the limits on VOC's(volatileorganics). He said the ones that required reformulation were thosethat used a large amount of thinners or other solvents in theirformulas and thus released lots of vapors. As Tom mentions below,adding back some of these may help. However, I don't know what elsethey may have added to make up for the components that wereremovedsoyour end product may yet be different and not behave as you wouldprefer.$0.02Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War SparAuthor: at Internet-MailDate: 5/8/00 6:36 PM In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: unknown? >> Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should doit. Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish Icurse the government for protecting me. from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Tue May 9 09:13:05 2000 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id JAA26591 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id JAA30638 for Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar It's hard to know who to believe on some of these matters. SaturdayI was told by the long-time owner of a local P&L outlet that P&L no longer produced Varmor because of the Federal regulations. (Enterstate of shock.) I called another P&L dealer and was told the samething. (Shock changes to panic.) Yesterday a third store says No,P&L still makes Varmor and they stock it and sell it. I buy a bunch,at only $12/quart. I've also been told (who knows if this is right) that if varnishis stored until it skims over, the remaining liquid, while it looksOK, has lost some of its driers and may not cure as fast or hardas it did when fresh........................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from briansr@point-net.com Tue May 9 09:14:15 2000 Subject: Re:grips Shawni have an olde Hardy cane wading staff that has seen many years onrivers.the handle wasn't leather but Jute with a varnished finish.I'vereplicated it and have used this modern one thew past two years. Sparseemingly gives a nice finish to the jute and this handle looks like itmight last forever as well. Methinks it would look good on a rod handle. ithink you've got something with the leather handle.cheers Brian from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue May 9 09:22:04 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 9 May 2000 09:09:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Re:grips I'm just too traditional I guess. Cork and cane just go together to well towant to change. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re:grips Shawni have an olde Hardy cane wading staff that has seen many years onrivers.the handle wasn't leather but Jute with a varnished finish.I'vereplicated it and have used this modern one thew past two years. Sparseemingly gives a nice finish to the jute and this handle looks like itmight last forever as well. Methinks it would look good on a rod handle. ithink you've got something with the leather handle.cheers Brian from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue May 9 09:25:13 2000 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re[2]: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Yes, the place I was in yesterday had plenty of Varmor R10 on the shelf and didn't seem too concerned about getting more.Jon ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar Author: at Internet-Mail It's hard to know who to believe on some of these matters. Saturday I was told by the long-time owner of a local P&L outlet that P&L no longer produced Varmor because of the Federal regulations. (Enter state of shock.) I called another P&L dealer and was told the same thing. (Shock changes to panic.) Yesterday a third store says No, P&L still makes Varmor and they stock it and sell it. I buy a bunch, at only $12/quart. I've also been told (who knows if this is right) that if varnishis stored until it skims over, the remaining liquid, while it looks OK, has lost some of its driers and may not cure as fast or hardas it did when fresh....................................................................... Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is better stetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke, Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue May 9 09:41:02 2000 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Varnish temperature I am looking for a little guidance on varnish temperature for a dip tube set up as I am going to add a heat source to my system. What do you guys use for an optimal temp? Is there a temp that is too hot (assuming we stay below the flash point!)? What negative effects do you see if it is too hot? Does heating the varnish have an effect on the rate you use for withdrawal of the section or pause times at the guides? How about thermal gradients (thermocline) in the tube? Dothey form and do they matter?Any info on heat manipulation here is greatly appreciated in advance.Thanks.Jon McAnulty from briansr@point-net.com Tue May 9 11:06:34 2000 Tue, 9 May 2000 12:06:28 -0400 Subject: Re: Re:grips I can equate to that *G* It's good also to experiment and move in otherdirections!Cheers Brian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re:grips I'm just too traditional I guess. Cork and cane just go together to welltowant to change. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Brian Sturrock" Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 9:13 AMSubject: Re:grips Shawni have an olde Hardy cane wading staff that has seen many years onrivers.the handle wasn't leather but Jute with a varnished finish.I'vereplicated it and have used this modern one thew past two years. Sparseemingly gives a nice finish to the jute and this handle looks like itmight last forever as well. Methinks it would look good on a rod handle.ithink you've got something with the leather handle.cheers Brian from grau@buchlang.com Tue May 9 11:22:10 2000 Tue, 9 May 2000 18:21:58 +0200 Subject: Leather grips boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0 boundary="----=_NextPart_001_001B_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0" ------=_NextPart_001_001B_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0 Dear Shawn Here 2 pics form a leather grip Regards Stefan ------=_NextPart_001_001B_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0 Dear ShawnHere 2 pics= gripRegardsStefan ------=_NextPart_001_001B_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0-- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0 name="graph.JPG" filename="graph.JPG" 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 ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0 name="fario2.JPG" filename="fario2.JPG" /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAMCAgMCAgMDAwMEAwMEBQgFBQQEBQoHBwYIDAoMDAsKCwsNDhIQDQ4RDgsLEBYQERMUFRUVDA8XGBYUGBIUFRT/2wBDAQMEBAUEBQkFBQkUDQsNFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBQUFBT/wAARCABZASADASIAAhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQAAAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWmp6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEAAwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSExBhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElKU1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3uLm6wsPExcbHyMnK0tPU1dbX2Nna4uPk5ebn6Onq8vP09fb3+Pn6/9oADAMBAAIRAxEAPwD9UScGjcaG60lAC7jRuNJRQAu40bjSUUALuNG40lFAC7jRuNJRQAu40bjSUUALuNG40lFAC7jRuNJRQAu40bjSUUALuNG40lFAC7jRuNJRQAu40bjSUUALuNG40lFAC7jRuNJRQAu40bjSUUALuNG40lFAC7jRuNJRQAu40AkmkpV60ADdaSlbrWXrvifSfDEUUmrajbackzFI2uJAu8gZIGevFGwbGnRXFy/GjwLASH8U6aCOo84Vhax+058M9DnhiufFNrulzsMaswJHbIGM0rmftYL7SPUaK8X0n9rv4bat4pi0UayLbzwBBfXICQSuf4c5yp/3gAa9Cb4neEUznxLpfHpdJ/jScordlRlGfwu501FchJ8XvBURw3ijTMjsLgGq8nxt8CRHnxRp/wCDk/0qHVpr7S+80UZPodvRXn0/x++H9uSG8TWhI6hAx/pWdP8AtN/DiCURnxCjMf7sLn+lL21P+ZD5Jdj1KivIrj9qz4bW6Fjrbtg4wsDZqlJ+198N0IC6lcyE9ktz/jR7ekvtIFCT6HtVFfHPxh/b6PhS6t38KaFDf6aoJnutQcguePlVVPy9+T1ryvVv+CnevwyI9tpOmiBhyGjYsp9vm5q4zjNXi7nPUqeylyyi7+h+jVGM1+W1/wD8FKfHjSSpFPaiCQkhltlDpnsDjoK4jU/29viXfxywPr92Ym+60ZEbL7ZXGatamftpPaDP2APHXj61BJfW0TlXuIUYckNIAR+tfibrP7UvjzXIdt3r+oTOOkjXD7vzzXNXnxs8VXzK8upTmZeknmHNOyDnqvaH4n7qHVrEAE3tuAeM+av+NIdYsFbBvrYEjODMvT86/Cf/AIXH4m80yf2jPuYfMC5waj/4W34k2Mh1CYxn+EueKNBOdb+Vfefuw2v6YoJOpWYC9SZ04/WqsnjPw/EGL65pqheubuPj9a/C5vix4lYL/wATKYMvRg56VTf4ia412blb6VJWGGZXPzD0PrSY+at/KvvP3bj8ceHJZNia/pjP1wLyP/GrDeKdGS3M7avYLAODIblNo/HNfgy/jzVyWC3Uixtzs3Hg+tTR/ErxBEq41CbcvQlz09KA5q3ZfefvfBcRXMSSQypLG43K8bBgw9QRUmK/B/SPjb4z0B2OneINQs1P3VhunUR8fw88D2Fbsf7UXxIhZXTxVqaSDhit3Jhh7jNMrmqfy/ifuHiivxh079tv4radIjJ4r1BxGMxiSXcEP0PDD65ruPDX/BSb4paKpF3cWmq7zlzd26kr7oV24+hzQHtJdYP8D9ZqK/MKX/gqR44Kjy9I0gFcdYH+f6/NwfpXoPgz/gprdarpwm1Lw1E00ZCypb5C59iW/pWcpqCuy4z5ujPvyivlLwn/AMFEvAWq39tb65Z3ugQTkL9scebFGx/v45AzxnmvRD+2R8HzEzp4yt5dvVY4JWb8ttEakZK6ZXOr2Z7TRXgs/wC3F8HoWAXxJLNno0VlKQT6Z29ap3X7d3wrtydt5qc/+5ZEfzIpOpCO7KXvbH0NTQ+WGK+XtT/4KJ/DHTQGNrrUkf8AE4gjG38C9bvw0/ba8F/FPx3pPhjSdP1SO81JmSKW4EQQbUZznDk9FPahVYPqJxk3ZI+h2618OftqfFFz4uvNEti27T7ZbZORgSOBIxHuQYx+HvX3G3Wvzz/a90ttA+OE+pXdqWsTPBfF2XKuuxBjP1jYY9qzrtqGgpbr1PiTxDr2tG+leK4lEWegJ4rHh1HV9QmjikmmdWP8XY+td54r8XWV7drEtlbQO0rPujXBYEAAEe2P1rvdR+Dk3h3wjofis6po89rfwNdRwLcrvXb1Vl9falRfNRT8jPFzjSxMo8q3PCbUasNQtlcykiQALk8816YPE2stEp+1OAOOO3rXPT/E1pde07UIYLeKaC6NwirGNuS4bBHp7V6JptyLnTkZ40RpQXdgg5JJNeVmc1CMXa7PayWm61WcZe6kv1MGDWtVZgz3cjhsc59Ksy6vqU6HM85UD1NbAgwdywFj22rU9vZ311KFj0+7mYjG2KM4P5CvA9rKWvKfXPCwjpznJy3d7GAWmnB553HmqV5cXL45m57lj1rvZ/BWv3zt5fh7U3z0ItpD/SmH4V+MHwB4T1eQHGD9jkP9K3hKb+ycVWjTjpzI85me6cjl2x1O+n2wu1+UDGfVq9Pi+CvjmUIsXgnVyO+LF+f0q7F+z78QpGUJ4I1UDGcm0Yc/lXRzVGvgONUqSd+c81bTrvUNLuYHCsHQggknsa8entpIoI5WbIclcZ5BFfQvizTL/wAEm5ttVsptPvIIyZIZ4yrKccDBr56lhkkYkI57njpn1r0csc3z8ystDgzX2adNQetnf9CFkKBSejDI/OpZLV0uRDuRmJABVuOQMc/jURUgDIP40hGD/jXuniajxCfNeMkBlzkk8cf/AKqRU3IzblG3HynqfpQwGVGT7mkVQScnGB+dAEslr5dpFP5kbeYzLsU/MuMckehzx9DQ0cX2hVEn7ptuXx0yBn8qbGiNG5ckED5QO5pI1Q/eYj2AzQIEiVlkJdQVXIB/iORxTSF8sEE78nIx24x/WplWAT4zI0Q7gc06JIdkjMjkdE603oK5GI4vNjG8lCAXIHK+v5UwBBvByePlI+v+FWzbZt4kSCQztySV6irMVg0simGwkcrwyHuewFK5LmluZRxtGCc9x6Uq7QjZBLHG0jtXoWh/A/x/4quRHpPgvV7lpCG2rZSfIPckYGa9W8N/sF/GjxPaJdr4ag0yNWAVb+dIZG99hOQPrRZi9p2R80EEhCI/ujk46896kTT7h32iNgSM8+lfcfhj/gl543vr6zXXvEulabYv89y1lumkQ9lVSFB+ua9m8H/8ExfAemWcq+Itd1fW7p5Mq9u4tkROwxyc+pz9MUai5pvZH5eSaZcOQfLROi4B7gYr1z4DfCa08drq76tfyabDAyRxtFgmRzyePYV+lD/sA/BRrbyh4ZuFbaF80ahNv+ud3WvTPBnwF+Hvw/sYbXQvCWl2UcXRjAHYnuSzZJPvWVSMpx5UxpVHpI/L61/ZeuvFvi9fD3hVLzVbqUhBdMCIIz/E0jYwqqOT39MmvWvD/wDwTI8dWpkkuvEmhRORgIjTPu9ydoxX6P29rDaRiOCGOCMfwRqFH5CpaiNFcvLN3NIx5JqaeqPzytv+CYfiQwCObxppKB38xyltKxXvgcjP14rdh/4Jm3j48/xzbKcD/Vacx/nJX3hRQ8PTe6N41JQ+FnwtN/wS70+8VVuPHc5Ut8+zT1Bx7Zc816N8Gf2CtB+D3j/RvFVt4o1DUbrTGdo7eW2iRH3RsnJHPRia+o6FcbsZGapUYK2gnVk3q9xW615l8cfgjY/Gfw/9imnFldopVJym4Eeh78c4+pr01utJWrSkrMzPzl+IX/BMHXjZT3+g+I7TVtRLZFpKhtxj2Ykj8Diue+G3/BNLx5r+seR401VNA0eFMiS2lW4kds/cVQcAYzkn8q/TuihJJJdhTXPJykz4ktv+CXfhSx1jSLhPEt3dWcFwst3DcQDdMgYEopB4zjBJzwa+ubX4ceFLKFIoPDWkxRoAqqtnHwB+FdFRQ4p7oI+58JmQ+GNGt/8AVaRYR/7lsg/pVyKwtYP9XbQx4/uRgf0qeikopdC3JvqIFC9AB9BS5ooqiQyaM0Vj+LvFmm+BvDd9rusTtb6bZJvmkVC5AJAGFHJOSBgUCbtqzM8ZfCnwd8Qju8SeG9O1lwuwSXUAZwvpu6/rWHc/s4/C+70iPTJPAmh/Yo/uItoqlf8AgQ+b9a801f8A4KA/CjSZHjMutzuhKkR6ZIOR2+bFcxqP/BSv4eWqFrbQPEd2Ox8iOMH/AL6ekmuhjKpT+0el3v7FfwYvlVW8EWkW3vDLKhP5NWLf/sCfBe/dW/4Ru4g2nO2G+lAP6mvNH/4KRWutW99J4e8Dzv8AYofOl/tTUIocrnHyhd2T7Vw2q/8ABS/xfKHFh4L0W3OOPOvJJDn1wAKpPsYupR7fge6P/wAE7/g07sx0zUskYH+nt8v04/nWBff8EzfhVcg+Rd61a5bJxNG3HpyleFWn7fvxs1uVotO0LRrk5+9aabPMU9sBjViT9qL9p/WpnTT9EnKBiA9r4alwfcFh0obZk69HpFnuQ/4Jp/CkRxxm51sxpztNwnJ9c7K07D/gnP8AB+zk3yWmq3LD7pe8xt/JRXkvg7xh+1v4kE3nWV9bxEgh7nToLcjI6DdjiuqXwl+1Nq4XzNalsweubm3jx+QNcdTEuEnHkb+R6mHw0a9NVE0k+71+49Etv2Afg3bx7f7CvJCSCWe+kyfbjtXR6d+xp8HdMkjdPBFnNs6JcPJIp9yC2DXikvwF/aM1Uf6T48kgB6j+1GGP++VqP/hj34w6m2b/AOJ0i5/6iFy38sVH1mo9qbN/qdKP24/18j6Nh/Z0+FdhIXXwNoEbEYy9qh/n0rXXw58PfDVvbx/2d4b02KBgYQ8UEewjoRnvXy0P2A/Fd6wN/wDEqV89QDPJn83FU9b/AOCaB1ixMbePXM5Od81kZAPzkq41a0n/AA7fNGU6MIRbjJN+h9fN8T/B0SuT4q0VVQ7WP2+Lg+n3q53Vf2kvhZoszRXvj/QYJF6qb1CR+RNfKfh7/gmPpPhrWLRtX8XT32m3AaOd7S0WFo5OqHLFhtPI6dSvrWr4Q/4Jy+BPEV/rs+pazrMtpa6lJa2YtpYlEkKqvJOwnO4up6fdrZufNaysc7b5Lr4u39M+h7n9q74RWqBm8faQ6kZHlSl8/kKxb39tj4OWQ58XJN/1wtpXz/47WNpf7Afwf0yBI/7Jv7raMFp7+Qlj6nGK3rT9jH4P2ZGPCMUuP+etzK2f/Hqyft29LfidEVCy5m7mBdft+fCG3H7vU9RuT6RafJ/XFYt3/wAFFvhnDnybHXbj6Wqr/Nq9Vsv2XvhTp+PK8DaUSO8kZf8AmTW/YfBrwHpgH2bwdokWOhFjGf5ijlrvqvuH+7Xf8D5zuP8AgpN4OBItPCeu3R+sS/1NUpf+CijXYxpnwy1q5Y9N0mc/98oa+trbwlodkB9n0XT4MdPLtY1/kK0IrSCAYjgjjA7IgFCp1nvP8Abh0X4nxi37cHxM1L/kFfBq+YE4DSR3DfyjFRt+0r+0hrP/ACDvhOLXPQy2Uxx/30wr7XzRmn7Kb3mxc0f5T4jk+IP7XmsLiDwfZ2Kt3a3iXH/fUldZ8G7P9pi4+Jui3Pjo2tv4TR3N7DG0AYr5bbRhcn7+3oa+sKVetUqNndybIdm72QN1pKVutJW4gooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKzfEnhvTfF+h3mj6xaJfabdpsmt5CQHGc9uRyAa0qKAPKU/ZW+E6sWfwPptwxOS1wHkJPr8zGtew/Z/wDhrpmPs3gTQI8dD9gjP8xXf0ULTYnlXY5WT4UeCpY1R/COhsi8hTp8WB/47V6y8CeGtNI+yeHtKtiOhiso1x+S1uUU7jsiC10+1sVItraG3B6iKML/ACFT5oopDDOaKKKACiiigAooooAbLEk8bRyIskbDDI4yCPQio7Oyt9Ptkt7WCO2t4xhYoUCqv0AqaigAooooAKKKKACiiigAooooAKUdaSlHFAARk0bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNG006igBu00bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNG006igBu00bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNG006igBu00bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNG006igBu00bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNG006igBu00bTTqKAG7TRtNOooAbtNGMCnUUAf/Z ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFB9E1.ABBC7CA0-- from tklein@amgen.com Tue May 9 11:31:47 2000 smtp.amgen.com via smap (V4.2) (5.5.2448.0) Subject: Bonefish Tapers? I'm toying with the idea of a bonefishing trip to Christmas Island inNovember. Does anyone have any experience with bonefish on a bamboorod? The typical graphite setup is a 9ft. 8wt., though some guys I've talked tolike to lightline it with a 6wt. Bonefish have a reputation as monsterfighters, so I would imagine that I'd be looking at something like a 7 or 8wt. that doesn't have too fine a tip, and can cast a LOT of line into thewind. Any suggestions? Also, these rods are probably pretty hefty. Does anyone have anyexperiencecasting one of these things 8 or 9 hours a day for a week? Should I startworking out the casting arm now? (or should I go > with plastic) ---Tim from andy@w-link.net Tue May 9 11:48:37 2000 Subject: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) All, I am happy to announce that my next shipment of tonkin poles will arriveinSeattle this month and will be available immediately thereafter. This isall 12' x 2"+ material I hand selected in China last month. Every piece isguaranteed to be void of slash marks and burn marks, my material is neverheat treated/straightened. This material is selected specifically for rodbuilders. I also collected approximately 100 poles that I'll call "big-uglies". Theseare monster poles for folks who like em big. Many of the poles approachthree inches in diameter and the few sample poles I weighed were overtenpounds (normal 2" poles average 6 lbs)! For reasons I've yet to understand,the bigger tonkin poles most often have less surface clarity then smallerpoles. These big poles are colorful but great for many different types ofheavier weight rods. I am selling these big poles in pairs of two. Please contact me directly for more information including prices anddelivery information. Thank you. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Brokerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fax from FlyfishT@aol.com Tue May 9 11:55:06 2000 Subject: Re: Fwd: Bellinger roughing beveler rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Joeseph,I agree and do not want deminish the bellinger beveller i am sure it is a quality machine, i do not want to hurt his sales either. I just thought I would give back to the list of any knowedge I have because I've gained so much from all of you guys, and being just a working man with a family like myself, there is not a lot of extra money sometimes. This would open up all those to have a machine to make the process so much faster. For all those who responded i let you know when my wife gets her pic'sdeveloped. Tom Nigro from Oozakgpt@aol.com Tue May 9 12:03:25 2000 Subject: Varnishing guides vs no guides Newby.Due to space limitations/SPOUSE I will be using a drip tube set -up varnishing.My question is would I run into major problems with the guides wrapped before varnishing since I can't clear the guides out as the varnish passes them.If I wrap the guides post varnishing,will they set well to the blank with clear lacquer?Could I still use color preservative on the wraps without damaging the varnish underneath the wraps? TIA Greg Taliani from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue May 9 12:30:48 2000 Tue, 9 May 2000 13:30:33 -0400 Subject: RE: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) While acknowledging Andy's thoughtfulness in designating his message asanadvertisement, I sincerely hope nobody follows this example and Andydoesn'trepeat it. This list contributes enough to my mailbox without having towade through commercial messages too. Please, no advertising, even if -----Original Message-----From: Andy Royer [SMTP:andy@w-link.net]Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 12:55 PM Subject: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) All, I am happy to announce that my next shipment of tonkin poles will arriveinSeattle this month and will be available immediately thereafter. This isall 12' x 2"+ material I hand selected in China last month. Every pieceisguaranteed to be void of slash marks and burn marks, my material isneverheat treated/straightened. This material is selected specifically for rodbuilders. I also collected approximately 100 poles that I'll call "big-uglies".Theseare monster poles for folks who like em big. Many of the poles approachthree inches in diameter and the few sample poles I weighed were overtenpounds (normal 2" poles average 6 lbs)! For reasons I've yet tounderstand,the bigger tonkin poles most often have less surface clarity then smallerpoles. These big poles are colorful but great for many different types ofheavier weight rods. I am selling these big poles in pairs of two. Please contact me directly for more information including prices anddelivery information. Thank you. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Brokerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fax from gjm80301@yahoo.com Tue May 9 13:25:00 2000 2000 11:24:57 PDT Subject: RE: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) Blame it on the casanova. Or maybe on some of us who asked Andy to let us know when he had morecane in stock. I got the impression that he got so many requeststhat this was the only quick way to answer them. Having said that, your point is well taken. --- Seth Steinzor wrote:While acknowledging Andy's thoughtfulness in designating hismessage as anadvertisement, I sincerely hope nobody follows this example andAndy doesn'trepeat it. This list contributes enough to my mailbox withouthaving towade through commercial messages too. Please, no advertising, evenif -----Original Message-----From: Andy Royer [SMTP:andy@w-link.net]Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 12:55 PM Subject: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) All, I am happy to announce that my next shipment of tonkin poles willarriveinSeattle this month and will be available immediately thereafter. This isall 12' x 2"+ material I hand selected in China last month. Every pieceisguaranteed to be void of slash marks and burn marks, my materialis neverheat treated/straightened. This material is selectedspecifically for rodbuilders. I also collected approximately 100 poles that I'll call"big-uglies".Theseare monster poles for folks who like em big. Many of the polesapproachthree inches in diameter and the few sample poles I weighed wereover tenpounds (normal 2" poles average 6 lbs)! For reasons I've yet tounderstand,the bigger tonkin poles most often have less surface clarity thensmallerpoles. These big poles are colorful but great for many differenttypes ofheavier weight rods. I am selling these big poles in pairs oftwo. Please contact me directly for more information including pricesanddelivery information. Thank you. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Brokerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fax __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from homessold@email.msn.com Tue May 9 13:26:20 2000 SMTPSVC;Tue, 9 May 2000 11:25:38 -0700 Subject: Haig-Brown Greased Liner Anyone know anything about this 9', 7-8wt rod? I believe it was a limitedcommemorative build a few years ago. Thanks Don SchneiderWoodinville, WA from jczimny@dol.net Tue May 9 13:26:56 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar I have no idea of what could have been added that would have createdripples. Imight suspect that the makers have done what other manufacturers havedone andsimply increase the solids content through the withdrawl of the usualpercentage ofreducer. This would tend to increase both surface tension and dry time ofthevarnish.The drying time can be slowed by increasing the oil content andadding athinner that won't "cook off" too rapidily. I suggest the best steam-distilledturpentine for this.Also, It is a very easy thing to call the customer service people and askhow tomodify the varnish so that it works well.John Z mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu wrote: To add a little more info to the mix, FWIW. I was in a paint/varnishsupplier here yesterday and was looking at some P&L Vitralyte UVSparand asked the owner about reformulations mandated by OSHA. He saidtheP&L had not been reformulated because it already contained a highamount of solids and thus did not exceed the limits on VOC's (volatileorganics). He said the ones that required reformulation were thosethat used a large amount of thinners or other solvents in theirformulas and thus released lots of vapors. As Tom mentions below,adding back some of these may help. However, I don't know what elsethey may have added to make up for the components that wereremoved soyour end product may yet be different and not behave as you wouldprefer.$0.02Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War SparAuthor: at Internet-MailDate: 5/8/00 6:36 PM In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: unknown? >> Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should do it.Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish Icurse the government for protecting me. from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Tue May 9 14:51:42 2000 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id HAA14659; Wed, 10May 2000 07:51:22 +1200 Subject: Re: Bonefish Tapers? Tim, The Dickerson "guide special" is a weight 7 , but will handle a #8 FT easily, is a great 8 foot rod . It was designed for drift boat fishing with thepower to pick up the line and recast without false casting and this is veryright. I have one i use for river mouth/lake fishing and I certainly find that I domuch less casting then those around me which sort of offsets the extraweight of the rod. The taper is in Jack Howells book or I can send you a copy of you wish .. Regards Ian Kearney At 09:31 AM 9/05/00 -0700, Klein, Tim wrote:I'm toying with the idea of a bonefishing trip to Christmas Island inNovember. Does anyone have any experience with bonefish on a bamboorod? The typical graphite setup is a 9ft. 8wt., though some guys I've talked tolike to lightline it with a 6wt. Bonefish have a reputation as monsterfighters, so I would imagine that I'd be looking at something like a 7 or 8wt. that doesn't have too fine a tip, and can cast a LOT of line into thewind. Any suggestions? Also, these rods are probably pretty hefty. Does anyone have anyexperiencecasting one of these things 8 or 9 hours a day for a week? Should I startworking out the casting arm now? (or should I go > with plastic) ---Tim from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Tue May 9 14:51:45 2000 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id HAA14671; Wed, 10May 2000 07:51:26 +1200 Subject: Re: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) Andy, I will probably need another couple of bundles in about 6 months time. Iwasreally pleased with the quality and service with the last two bundles Ibought from you . Could you kindly let me know the price , and the cost to send to NewZealand, of two bundles and the likelyhood of them being available in about 6months . regards Ian Kearney At 09:54 AM 9/05/00 -0700, Andy Royer wrote:All, I am happy to announce that my next shipment of tonkin poles will arriveinSeattle this month and will be available immediately thereafter. This isall 12' x 2"+ material I hand selected in China last month. Every piece isguaranteed to be void of slash marks and burn marks, my material isneverheat treated/straightened. This material is selected specifically for rodbuilders. I also collected approximately 100 poles that I'll call "big-uglies". Theseare monster poles for folks who like em big. Many of the poles approachthree inches in diameter and the few sample poles I weighed were overtenpounds (normal 2" poles average 6 lbs)! For reasons I've yet tounderstand,the bigger tonkin poles most often have less surface clarity then smallerpoles. These big poles are colorful but great for many different types ofheavier weight rods. I am selling these big poles in pairs of two. Please contact me directly for more information including prices anddelivery information. Thank you. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Brokerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fax from rsgould@cmc.net Tue May 9 14:51:49 2000 Subject: Re: Varnish temperature Hi Jon,It all depends on the temperatures where you are located. Provide asystemthat will give you varnish temperatures between 70-80 degreesfahrenheit fordipping and dry at 90-120 degrees F.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Varnish temperature I am looking for a little guidance on varnish temperature for a diptube set up as I am going to add a heat source to my system. What doyou guys use for an optimal temp? Is there a temp that is too hot(assuming we stay below the flash point!)? What negative effects doyou see if it is too hot? Does heating the varnish have an effect onthe rate you use for withdrawal of the section or pause times at theguides? How about thermal gradients (thermocline) in the tube? Dotheyform and do they matter?Any info on heat manipulation here is greatly appreciated in advance.Thanks.Jon McAnulty from Grhghlndr@aol.com Tue May 9 18:51:14 2000 Subject: Re: RE: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) Seth, I know quite a few of us asked andy to let us know when he had new cane. I don't take any offense to him doing this on the list as I think it was the fastest way to let us all know.Bret from dpeaston@wzrd.com Tue May 9 18:55:05 2000 Subject: Re: Re[2]: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar At 09:08 AM 5/9/2000 -0500, nobler wrote:OSHA has reared its ugly head in more than one industry ! It's ourgovernment at work again. Dope used in the construction of aircraft, bothfull scale and model size, has been drastically altered to fit OSHAstandards. Auto lacquer is hard to find in any store today. These OSHApeople haven't a clue, as to what a decent product needs, and only wesuffer. Many in OSHA look at the solvents used as just another way ofglueor paint spray sniffing, for teens. How it affects the normal adult in hiswork place is totally ignored ! Although OSHA has responibnility for the safety of those in thre workplacethe EPA has responsibility for air quality (and water quality) regulationat the federal level. The EPA, right or wrong, sets minimmum VOCemissionstandards. An excellent discussion of the composition and use of paintsandcoatings can be found at http://www3.stratos.net/akrist/pages/paint.htm. Iquote the following from that page: "Today, most oil paint products are Alkyds. Natural oil ingredients aremodified, (chemically reacted upon by, probably, alcohol), to become morehard, durable, and better suited for specific applications than in theiroriginal form. Unfortunately, the solvents used in oil based productsrelease by evaporation VOCs, (Volitile Organic Compounds) into theatmosphere. VOCs react with other hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides inthepresence of sunlight to contribute in the creation of ground-level ozone.Ground-level ozone is a major component of smog. The EPA,(EnvironmentalProtection Agency), is one of many agencies, (others State and local),responsible for regulation product VOCs. Generally, if a paint product issold in your area, it is almost certainly VOC compliant in your area." -Doug Subject: RE: McCloskey's Man 'O War SparAuthor: at Internet-MailDate: 5/8/00 6:36 PM In a message dated 5/8/0 1:49:37 PM, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com writes: unknown? >> Andy - As far as I am concerned, the new stuff is not as good as the old.(Remember that I brush varnish) I was getting an uneven appearingsurfacewith the new stuff, and could only get an even appearance if I rubbed itout.I was able to pretty much solve the problem by putting some volatileoilsback in. You don't need much. A tablespoon or two to a gallon should doit. Idon't know whether or not it will help with a dipping set up. Nothing isasgood as the formulation they had 15-20 years ago. Every time I varnish Icurse the government for protecting me. Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from Grhghlndr@aol.com Tue May 9 18:59:00 2000 Subject: Re: McCloskey's Man 'O War Spar So I should go to my supplier right now and buy all his old stock?Bret from flytyr@southshore.com Tue May 9 19:10:51 2000 Subject: Re: Varnishing guides vs no guides Greg,I have done over 10 rods in my drain tube and all with the guides wrapped.Ittakes a little time for the film to break but it will. A couple of times Ithought it would not but it eventually did break. It takes longer with thedraintube cause you can't blow on the film to break it. You also have to wait tillthevarnish flows down past the wrap so you don't get a run. Like me, if youdon'thave another choice, go with the drain tube.As for wrapping the guides before or after that will have to be up to you, Ihaveonly done mine with the guides wrapped.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Oozakgpt@aol.com wrote: Newby.Due to space limitations/SPOUSE I will be using a drip tube set -up forvarnishing.My question is would I run into major problems with theguideswrapped before varnishing since I can't clear the guides out as thevarnishpasses them.If I wrap the guides post varnishing,will they set well totheblank with clear lacquer?Could I still use color preservative on thewrapswithout damaging the varnish underneath the wraps? TIA Greg Taliani from freaner@home.com Tue May 9 19:15:00 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with ESMTP Subject: RE: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) At 7:50 PM -0400 , 5/9/00, Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote about RE: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT)Seth, I know quite a few of us asked andy to let us know when he had newcane. I don't take any offense to him doing this on the list as I think itwas the fastest way to let us all know.Bret I have to agree with Bret...He clearly indicated in the subject line what he was doing so people could delete without reading, and he did not discuss prices; he merely announced the availability of some quality cane. I don't see much difference in this and someone providing a URL to a website that sells bevelers. I appreciate the informational aspect of both posts; I can make a choice to pursue the leads for further information, or I can ignore it. New subject: something I've been wondering about since seeing someone else (sorry, name is on work computer) ask about varnishing before or after putting on the guides: what are the advantages/disadvantages that you see in totally varnishing the cane before adding the ferrules and guides, as compared to mounting everything and then varnishing? One immediate advantage to varnishing first, it seems to me, is that it would be much easier to sand the varnish coats without ferrules or guides in the way... but will the ferrules and guides then bond to the varnished blank as well as if it was all dipped after installation and wrapping? Thanks in advance,Claude from horsesho@ptd.net Tue May 9 19:45:24 2000 0000 (204.186.211.68) Subject: Re: Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT) Claude Freaner wrote: At 7:50 PM -0400 , 5/9/00, Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote about RE: Tonkin(ADVERTISEMENT)Seth, I know quite a few of us asked andy to let us know when he hadnewcane. I don't take any offense to him doing this on the list as I think itwas the fastest way to let us all know.Bret I have to agree with Bret...He clearly indicated in the subject linewhat he was doing so people could delete without reading, and he didnot discuss prices; he merely announced the availability of somequality cane. I don't see much difference in this and someoneproviding a URL to a website that sells bevelers. I appreciate theinformational aspect of both posts; I can make a choice to pursue theleads for further information, or I can ignore it. New subject: something I've been wondering about since seeingsomeone else (sorry, name is on work computer) ask about varnishingbefore or after putting on the guides: what are theadvantages/disadvantages that you see in totally varnishing the canebefore adding the ferrules and guides, as compared to mountingeverything and then varnishing? One immediate advantage to varnishing first, it seems to me, is thatit would be much easier to sand the varnish coats without ferrules orguides in the way... but will the ferrules and guides then bond tothe varnished blank as well as if it was all dipped afterinstallation and wrapping? Thanks in advance,ClaudeHi Claude, I put just 1 coat of varnish and mount guides/wraps.Advantage is it makes the silk wrapping go much easier. Silk tends to"bite in" ever so slightly to the varnish. I then put 3 coats on wrapsfollowed by 2-3 coat over entire rod. Marty from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 20:34:04 2000 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: Wrapping over varnish (was Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT)) Marty, How long do you wait before wrapping after putting the first coat ofvarnish on the blank? I did that on one of my most recent rods andnoticed that I had a bear of a time burnishing the wraps. Due to thebiting in, it was next to impossible to tell the truth! On this rod Iused Man O' War (the old stuff) and I think I waited about three or fourdays. Maybe I should have let it cure longer??? Dennis marty wrote: Claude Freaner wrote: At 7:50 PM -0400 , 5/9/00, Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote about RE: Tonkin(ADVERTISEMENT)Seth, I know quite a few of us asked andy to let us know when he hadnewcane. I don't take any offense to him doing this on the list as I think itwas the fastest way to let us all know.Bret I have to agree with Bret...He clearly indicated in the subject linewhat he was doing so people could delete without reading, and he didnot discuss prices; he merely announced the availability of somequality cane. I don't see much difference in this and someoneproviding a URL to a website that sells bevelers. I appreciate theinformational aspect of both posts; I can make a choice to pursue theleads for further information, or I can ignore it. New subject: something I've been wondering about since seeingsomeone else (sorry, name is on work computer) ask about varnishingbefore or after putting on the guides: what are theadvantages/disadvantages that you see in totally varnishing the canebefore adding the ferrules and guides, as compared to mountingeverything and then varnishing? One immediate advantage to varnishing first, it seems to me, is thatit would be much easier to sand the varnish coats without ferrules orguides in the way... but will the ferrules and guides then bond tothe varnished blank as well as if it was all dipped afterinstallation and wrapping? Thanks in advance,ClaudeHi Claude, I put just 1 coat of varnish and mount guides/wraps.Advantage is it makes the silk wrapping go much easier. Silk tends to"bite in" ever so slightly to the varnish. I then put 3 coats on wrapsfollowed by 2-3 coat over entire rod. Marty from martinj@aa.net Tue May 9 20:44:51 2000 Tue, 9 May 2000 18:44:46 -0700 Subject: RE: Wrapping over varnish (was Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT)) a suggestion I heard up at the Corbett lake gathering was to subject thevarnish to UV light for a day or two. supposed to cure the finish reallyfast. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Wrapping over varnish (was Tonkin (ADVERTISEMENT)) Marty, How long do you wait before wrapping after putting the first coat ofvarnish on the blank? I did that on one of my most recent rods andnoticed that I had a bear of a time burnishing the wraps. Due to thebiting in, it was next to impossible to tell the truth! On this rod Iused Man O' War (the old stuff) and I think I waited about three or fourdays. Maybe I should have let it cure longer??? Dennis marty wrote: Claude Freaner wrote: At 7:50 PM -0400 , 5/9/00, Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote about RE: Tonkin(ADVERTISEMENT)Seth, I know quite a few of us asked andy to let us know when he hadnewcane. I don't take any offense to him doing this on the list as Ithink itwas the fastest way to let us all know.Bret I have to agree with Bret...He clearly indicated in the subject linewhat he was doing so people could delete without reading, and he didnot discuss prices; he merely announced the availability of somequality cane. I don't see much difference in this and someoneproviding a URL to a website that sells bevelers. I appreciate theinformational aspect of both posts; I can make a choice to pursue theleads for further information, or I can ignore it. New subject: something I've been wondering about since seeingsomeone else (sorry, name is on work computer) ask about varnishingbefore or after putting on the guides: what are theadvantages/disadvantages that you see in totally varnishing the canebefore adding the ferrules and guides, as compared to mountingeverything and then varnishing? One immediate advantage to varnishing first, it seems to me, is thatit would be much easier to sand the varnish coats without ferrules orguides in the way... but will the ferrules and guides then bond tothe varnished blank as well as if it was all dipped afterinstallation and wrapping? Thanks in advance,ClaudeHi Claude, I put just 1 coat of varnish and mount guides/wraps.Advantage is it makes the silk wrapping go much easier. Silk tends to"bite in" ever so slightly to the varnish. I then put 3 coats on wrapsfollowed by 2-3 coat over entire rod. Marty from DNHayashida@aol.com Tue May 9 22:30:20 2000 Subject: Re:Wrapping over varnish New subject: something I've been wondering about since seeing someone else (sorry, name is on work computer) ask about varnishing before or after putting on the guides: what are the advantages/disadvantages that you see in totally varnishing the cane before adding the ferrules and guides, as compared to mounting everything and then varnishing? I like varnishing the blank first. That way I can totally seal the cane evenunder the handle, but I do install the ferrules before varnishing. One immediate advantage to varnishing first, it seems to me, is that it would be much easier to sand the varnish coats without ferrules or guides in the way... but will the ferrules and guides then bond to the varnished blank as well as if it was all dipped after installation and wrapping? The times I've had to remove wrappings wrapped over a varnished blank,all the varnish down to the blank came off, so apparently the overcoatof varnish over the thread bonds well with the undercoat varnish. I don'tuse color preserver though.Darryl from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue May 9 22:53:52 2000 Subject: RE: Varnish People considering using shellac should be aware that the stuff definitelyhas a limited shelf life unless you buy flakes and mix it up for the job.If you're buying ready-mixed shellac in the small quantities needed forrodmaking, make sure its fresh. Also make sure you get the clear stuffunless you're sure you wnat to impart a nice amber tone to your rod. Tony - why would you use it only as an undercoat? Not tough enough? -----Original Message-----From: Tony Young [SMTP:avyoung@iinet.net.au]Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 5:41 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Varnish I just took a look at this site and it's worth a look. Shellac willdisolveif you get wiskey on it and leave it there but it is possibly waterproofwhich varnishes aren't really. Shellac is used to seat small woodenbungsinto recesses bored to take screws used to fasten planks to frames insomecarval planked boats.The bungs stay in place and don't ever leak. I can remember spending acouple of weeks refinishing some furniture on a yacht that was FrenchPolished. The nice thing about shellac is it redisolves when you applyanother coat so unlike varnish which has to be striped right back torefinish all you do with shellac is put more on the item and rub it in tobring it back to look as good as the day it was made.Peter McKean on this list is also a keen fly tyer and uses it as a sealerinstead of nail varnish. It's easier to clean from the bodkin and drysveryquickly.Anybody currently putting a coat of Tung oil on their blanks beforevarnishing may like to consider a few coats of shellac rubbed on insteadofTung oil as it'll do a better job of preventing moisture re-entry and is agood base for varnish. If you use it thinly cut it'll dry in minutes andyou can have a few coats on in 5 mins or so. Shellac will be brittle if cut with sprit alcahol but if you use the morepure stuff made for the job it'll be more flexable.Also, I remember somebody on the list once telling me the clear shellacwasused by some as a colour preserver.It's pretty good stuff in a lot of ways but I wouldn't use it as the onlyprotective coating on a rod but it may be a good base before varnishing. Tony At 08:30 PM 5/9/00 -0800, Mike George wrote:I am a newbie, so forgive me for asking a stupid question.With all the discussion concerning varnish, is shellac a viablealternative?I visited the "www.shellac.net" web site and did not notice anynegatives.I am not a rod maker yet, but am very interested in all aspects of rodmaking. /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 10 11:02:28 2000 Thu, 11 May 2000 00:02:15 +0800 Thu, 11 May 2000 00:02:14 +0800 Subject: Re: Varnish... Make your own Thanks Bob. Tony At 10:42 AM 5/10/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote: List,Again, for those who missed it, I have two pretty good varnishrecipes ifyou want them. Just email me offlist and I'll copy them down to you. Honestly, Varmor or McCloskeys with a little additivesadded is just asgoodand a LOT easier, but you are all welcome to the recipes if you wantthem. Just don't cook em in the house. I don't want anyone's wife or girlfriendchasing me down with a baseball bat! *S* Later,Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rods http://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from rmoon@ida.net Wed May 10 11:11:45 2000 0000 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish Chris You are right. I finished a rod for my wife more than twenty years agowith a modified french polish. I was able to put on about six coats ina day; the build is probably 1/2 one coat of varnish. It does not havethat patent leather plastic look of Poly varnishes. It has never beenrecoated and today looks almost as it did twenty years ago.Incidentally one of the components is shellac. Please, don't ask forthe formula, it was given to me in confidence by a highly repsected rodmaker. Ralph from ChristopherO@epicrad.com Wed May 10 11:12:48 2000 RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Thin vs. Thick finish regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two and fouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years, finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it does produce arich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris -----Original Message----- Subject: Thin vs. Thick finish Paul Young using only oil on his personal rods makes sense to me. Not as much concern about cosmetics and longevity with personal rods. Also, if you've cast or wiggled a rod with only a coat of oil wiped on it, you know that there is a significant difference in the action (much crisper) when compared with the action after two or three coats of varnish are dipped. It may not be the best in terms of cosmetics or longevity, but I think the thinner the finish the better. On the other hand, maybe the dampeningeffect of multiple coats of spar could be worked into the design for a sloweraction rod. If we really wanted to get crazy we could put extra coats on the tip only and make the action more parabolic. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Wed May 10 11:37:27 2000 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish Can anyone explain for me what exactely "tung" oil is? I`ve asked in a local paint shop for tung varnish, but they do not know whatitis.Linseed oil we have here in Norway, is it the same stuff?? TIAdanny Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote: regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two and fouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years, finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it does produce arich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:04 AM Subject: Thin vs. Thick finish Paul Young using only oil on his personal rods makes sense to me. Not asmuch concern about cosmetics and longevity with personal rods. Also, ifyou've cast or wiggled a rod with only a coat of oil wiped on it, youknowthat there is a significant difference in the action (much crisper) whencompared with the action after two or three coats of varnish are dipped. It may not be the best in terms of cosmetics or longevity, but I think thethinner the finish the better. On the other hand, maybe the dampeningeffectof multiple coats of spar could be worked into the design for a sloweractionrod. If we really wanted to get crazy we could put extra coats on the tiponly and make the action more parabolic. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from punky@integratedmillsystems.com Wed May 10 11:44:23 2000 (1.61/SMTP) for Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish When using oil to finish a rod, would you still use varnish to coat thewraps? Or would tung oil be ok for them as well? Keith Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote... regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two and fouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years, finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it does produce arich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 10 11:45:43 2000 Thu, 11 May 2000 00:45:34 +0800 Thu, 11 May 2000 00:45:32 +0800 Subject: RE: Varnish Rodmakers I think as Chris Mcdowell mentioned re. Paul Young using linseed for hisown rods because personal rods only need to be as good as you want and asapro there would be 2nds you could use is much of the reason I'd be a bitleary of only using shellac. Good as it is I think it's be a bit easilyscratched and mared and the shellac may wind up cracking in time if usedona rod thick enough to serve as the only protective covering. As anundercoat it's only be very thin and may be fine.Varnish has the advantage of just being a bit tougher for the field.I'm in the middle of making a couple of rods for me and I think I'll tryshellac on one and see what happens. You are also right in mentioning it has a shelf life once cut. I always getit in flakes and it goes for yonks this way if kept dry. Tony At 12:03 PM 5/10/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote:People considering using shellac should be aware that the stuffdefinitelyhas a limited shelf life unless you buy flakes and mix it up for the job.If you're buying ready-mixed shellac in the small quantities needed forrodmaking, make sure its fresh. Also make sure you get the clear stuffunless you're sure you wnat to impart a nice amber tone to your rod. Tony - why would you use it only as an undercoat? Not tough enough? -----Original Message-----From: Tony Young [SMTP:avyoung@iinet.net.au]Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 5:41 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Varnish I just took a look at this site and it's worth a look. Shellac willdisolveif you get wiskey on it and leave it there but it is possibly waterproofwhich varnishes aren't really. Shellac is used to seat small woodenbungsinto recesses bored to take screws used to fasten planks to frames insomecarval planked boats.The bungs stay in place and don't ever leak. I can remember spending acouple of weeks refinishing some furniture on a yacht that was FrenchPolished. The nice thing about shellac is it redisolves when you applyanother coat so unlike varnish which has to be striped right back torefinish all you do with shellac is put more on the item and rub it in tobring it back to look as good as the day it was made.Peter McKean on this list is also a keen fly tyer and uses it as a sealerinstead of nail varnish. It's easier to clean from the bodkin and drysveryquickly.Anybody currently putting a coat of Tung oil on their blanks beforevarnishing may like to consider a few coats of shellac rubbed on insteadofTung oil as it'll do a better job of preventing moisture re-entry and is agood base for varnish. If you use it thinly cut it'll dry in minutes andyou can have a few coats on in 5 mins or so. Shellac will be brittle if cut with sprit alcahol but if you use the morepure stuff made for the job it'll be more flexable.Also, I remember somebody on the list once telling me the clear shellacwasused by some as a colour preserver.It's pretty good stuff in a lot of ways but I wouldn't use it as the onlyprotective coating on a rod but it may be a good base before varnishing. Tony At 08:30 PM 5/9/00 -0800, Mike George wrote:I am a newbie, so forgive me for asking a stupid question.With all the discussion concerning varnish, is shellac a viablealternative?I visited the "www.shellac.net" web site and did not notice anynegatives.I am not a rod maker yet, but am very interested in all aspects of rodmaking. /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 10 12:05:26 2000 Thu, 11 May 2000 01:05:20 +0800 Thu, 11 May 2000 01:05:17 +0800 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish I don't know where it's derived but it's used as a base for various oilfinishes in the same sort of way Linseed is.Ordinary paint shops prob wont have it but specialist wood working placeswill.It may even be the basis for Danish Oil. Possibly try a paint shop inDenmark?Sorry, bad geographical joke. Tony At 06:46 PM 5/10/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote:Can anyone explain for me what exactely "tung" oil is? I`ve asked in a local paint shop for tung varnish, but they do not knowwhat itis.Linseed oil we have here in Norway, is it the same stuff?? TIAdanny Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote: regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two and fouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years,finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it does produce arich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:04 AM Subject: Thin vs. Thick finish Paul Young using only oil on his personal rods makes sense to me. Notasmuch concern about cosmetics and longevity with personal rods. Also,ifyou've cast or wiggled a rod with only a coat of oil wiped on it, youknowthat there is a significant difference in the action (much crisper) whencompared with the action after two or three coats of varnish aredipped.It may not be the best in terms of cosmetics or longevity, but I think thethinner the finish the better. On the other hand, maybe the dampeningeffectof multiple coats of spar could be worked into the design for a sloweractionrod. If we really wanted to get crazy we could put extra coats on thetiponly and make the action more parabolic. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Wed May 10 12:15:16 2000 [62.253.162.43] (may be forged)) svc.ntlworld.com(InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Wed, 10 May 2000 18:14:55 +0100 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish Tony,Here in the UK Danoil is Tung Oil( at least that what it says on the Tin! ).......Regards......Paul Tony Young wrote: I don't know where it's derived but it's used as a base for various oilfinishes in the same sort of way Linseed is.Ordinary paint shops prob wont have it but specialist wood workingplaceswill.It may even be the basis for Danish Oil. Possibly try a paint shop inDenmark?Sorry, bad geographical joke. Tony At 06:46 PM 5/10/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote:Can anyone explain for me what exactely "tung" oil is? I`ve asked in a local paint shop for tung varnish, but they do not knowwhat itis.Linseed oil we have here in Norway, is it the same stuff?? TIAdanny Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote: regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two andfouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years,finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it does producearich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:04 AM Subject: Thin vs. Thick finish Paul Young using only oil on his personal rods makes sense to me. Notasmuch concern about cosmetics and longevity with personal rods. Also,ifyou've cast or wiggled a rod with only a coat of oil wiped on it, youknowthat there is a significant difference in the action (much crisper)whencompared with the action after two or three coats of varnish aredipped.It may not be the best in terms of cosmetics or longevity, but I think thethinner the finish the better. On the other hand, maybe the dampeningeffectof multiple coats of spar could be worked into the design for a sloweractionrod. If we really wanted to get crazy we could put extra coats on thetiponly and make the action more parabolic. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from flytyr@southshore.com Wed May 10 12:22:57 2000 Wed, 10 May 2000 12:30:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Varnishing guides vs no guides Harry,I guess I should of mentioned that I do use the clear florescent protectortube so I cansee the flow past the guides. I did the first coat on the first rod withoutguides buthad a devil of a time wrapping the guides. I even waited several days forthe varnish todry. I decided to just wrap the guides on the bare blank. I do apply severalcoats ofthinned finish on the wraps then give it three coats of varnish in the draintube.I did thin the varnish some, I might try thinning it a little more. It issomewhat hardersanding the rod with the guides, but I don't mind it. I may try to find someothervarnish that sets up quicker. The next rod I do for myself I am going to trythe newGudebrod water base rod finish. I have played with it and I think it has alot ofpossibilities. It is almost instant drying and sands real well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Harry Boyd wrote: Tony, and others,You guys who are drip/dip finishing with guides on really ought totry one ofthe clear plastic tubes for holding flourescent lighting tubes. Makesseeing theguides a snap. Ron Huff put me on this, so thank Ron for the tip.Lately I've been dipping a coat of varnish, then sanding. Then dipanothercoat and sand again. THEN wrap the guides, put a few coats on thewraps, and thendip one last coat. Also, if the varnish film in the guides seems to hangon to long,you might try thinning the varnish just a tiny bit. It seems to work forme.Harry Boyd Tony Spezio wrote: You also have to wait till the varnish flows down past the wrap so youdon't get arun. ..... As for wrapping the guides before or after that will have to be up toyou, I haveonly done mine with the guides wrapped. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 10 12:28:17 2000 Thu, 11 May 2000 01:28:10 +0800 Thu, 11 May 2000 01:28:08 +0800 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" It must be a brand name thing. Here it's Danish Oil, Scandinavian Oil andone other I can't quite remember but they all have a few other ingredientsapart from Tung Oil. Actually, I think one of them doesn't actually havetung oil any more but something "new and improved" what ever that is. There is a specialist woodworking shop I frequent that sells pure tung oil Tony At 05:15 PM 5/10/00 +0100, paul.blakley wrote:Tony,Here in the UK Danoil is Tung Oil( at least that what it says on the Tin! ).......Regards......Paul Tony Young wrote: I don't know where it's derived but it's used as a base for various oilfinishes in the same sort of way Linseed is.Ordinary paint shops prob wont have it but specialist wood workingplaceswill.It may even be the basis for Danish Oil. Possibly try a paint shop inDenmark?Sorry, bad geographical joke. Tony At 06:46 PM 5/10/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote:Can anyone explain for me what exactely "tung" oil is? I`ve asked in a local paint shop for tung varnish, but they do not knowwhat itis.Linseed oil we have here in Norway, is it the same stuff?? TIAdanny Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote: regarding oil-finnished rods: i have four that are between two andfouryears old, and all have been fished VERY hard. they are all in perfectshape still (i do re-apply the tung oil once or twice a year tho). BobLancaster, a pittsburgh PA rodmaker of twenty or thirty years,finnisheshisrods with nothing but tung oil, and still swears by it. it doesproduce arich, satin finnish that highlights the natural grain of the cane(especially on lightly flamed rods). you will not get the super shinysee-yourself-in-the-rod finnish no matter how long you rub though.different strokes for different folks. chris -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:04 AM Subject: Thin vs. Thick finish Paul Young using only oil on his personal rods makes sense to me.Not asmuch concern about cosmetics and longevity with personal rods. Also, ifyou've cast or wiggled a rod with only a coat of oil wiped on it,you knowthat there is a significant difference in the action (much crisper)whencompared with the action after two or three coats of varnish aredipped.It may not be the best in terms of cosmetics or longevity, but I thinkthethinner the finish the better. On the other hand, maybe the dampeningeffectof multiple coats of spar could be worked into the design for asloweractionrod. If we really wanted to get crazy we could put extra coats onthe tiponly and make the action more parabolic. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Wed May 10 12:47:27 2000 Wed, 10 May 2000 12:46:27 -0500 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re[2]: Varnishing guides vs no guides A while back there was some banter that if you recoat with varnish within a certain time period that it is not necessary to sand between coats (unless you need some smoothing I suppose). Any input on this? How long can it set before recoating before you would need to sand it correct?Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Varnishing guides vs no guides Author: at Internet-Mail Harry,I guess I should of mentioned that I do use the clear florescent protectortube soI cansee the flow past the guides. I did the first coat on the first rod without guidesbuthad a devil of a time wrapping the guides. I even waited several days forthe vaish todry. I decided to just wrap the guides on the bare blank. I do apply several coatsofthinned finish on the wraps then give it three coats of varnish in the drain tube. I did thin the varnish some, I might try thinning it a little more. It is somewhathardersanding the rod with the guides, but I don't mind it. I may try to find some other varnish that sets up quicker. The next rod I do for myself I am goingto try the ewGudebrod water base rod finish. I have played with it and I think it has alot of possibilities. It is almost instant drying and sands real well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Harry Boyd wrote: Tony, and others,You guys who are drip/dip finishing with guides on really ought totryne ofthe clear plastic tubes for holding flourescent lighting tubes. Makesseeing eguides a snap. Ron Huff put me on this, so thank Ron for the tip.Lately I've been dipping a coat of varnish, then sanding. Then dip anhercoat and sand again. THEN wrap the guides, put a few coats on thewraps, and endip one last coat. Also, if the varnish film in the guides seems to hangon tlong,you might try thinning the varnish just a tiny bit. It seems to work forme. Harry Boyd Tony Spezio wrote: You also have to wait till the varnish flows down past the wrap so youdon'tet arun. ..... As for wrapping the guides before or after that will have to be up toyou, Iaveonly done mine with the guides wrapped. from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Wed May 10 13:09:46 2000 Subject: Re: Wrapping over varnish rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Bob and AllI have done both varnish before and after. I just had a guy break a guide off one of the dipped first rods and it did not crack the varnish in any way so I'm not to worried about the bond to the blank, but I do think varnishing after looks better because you get a nice smooth transition from wraps to blank. Just my opinionJoe from ChristopherO@epicrad.com Wed May 10 13:47:10 2000 ,RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Thin vs. Thick finish i use spar varnish to coat the guide wraps. i was told that spar is tungoil based, and would bond well to the oil finnish.to date it has worked as billed. for varnish i used man-o-war previously,and recently interlux brightsides clipper varnish (left over from a woodenboat i recently built). i have used both "tung oil" and "danish oil" which appear to be the samestuff (the danish oil was recommended by a custom gunsmith who used itthefinnish gun stocks, and raved about the stuff). just my two cents. chris -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish When using oil to finish a rod, would you still use varnish to coat thewraps? Or would tung oil be ok for them as well? Keith from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed May 10 13:54:29 2000 12:05:43 PDT Subject: re: Re[2]: Varnishing guides vs no guides Hi Joe, I tried this once with the finish I use. The label says if you recoat within 12 hrs., sanding isn't necessary. The label of your product shoulddesignate the maximum time allowed between coats without sanding, and yes youare right in that sanding is necessary to allow the two coats to bond. While the finish I use stuck to itself fine within the 12 hrs. recommended, I don't do it anymore. I like a thinner overall finish so the sanding between my two coats helps reduce the final thickness, and as you mentioned if there areany imperfections in the finish you have one more opportunity to smooth themout. When I finished cabinets we used to put a coat of varnish on first becauseit bonded better with the wood. After lightly sanding we used polyurethane the top coats because it stuck well to a varnish base and it was a tougher finish, more resistant to wear. I wonder if anyone is currently doing a two or three product layeringprocess on bamboo? Oil wiped on first to seal the blank, wrap the rod, coat the wraps, a dipped coat of varnish for stronger flexibility adhesion next tothe bamboo, sanded, and a top coat of polyurethane to provide a hard surface. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu------------------Original text A while back there was some banter that if you recoat with varnish within a certain time period that it is not necessary to sand between coats (unless you need some smoothing I suppose). Any input on this? How long can it set before recoating before you would need to sand it correct?Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________Subject: Re: Varnishing guides vs no guides Author: at Internet-Mail Harry,I guess I should of mentioned that I do use the clear florescent protector tube soI cansee the flow past the guides. I did the first coat on the first rod without guidesbuthad a devil of a time wrapping the guides. I even waited several days forthe vaish todry. I decided to just wrap the guides on the bare blank. I do apply several coatsofthinned finish on the wraps then give it three coats of varnish in the drain tube. I did thin the varnish some, I might try thinning it a little more. It is somewhathardersanding the rod with the guides, but I don't mind it. I may try to find some other varnish that sets up quicker. The next rod I do for myself I am goingto try the ewGudebrod water base rod finish. I have played with it and I think it has alot of possibilities. It is almost instant drying and sands real well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Harry Boyd wrote: Tony, and others,You guys who are drip/dip finishing with guides on really ought to tryne ofthe clear plastic tubes for holding flourescent lighting tubes. Makes seeing eguides a snap. Ron Huff put me on this, so thank Ron for the tip.Lately I've been dipping a coat of varnish, then sanding. Then dip anhercoat and sand again. THEN wrap the guides, put a few coats on thewraps, and endip one last coat. Also, if the varnish film in the guides seems to hang on tlong,you might try thinning the varnish just a tiny bit. It seems to work for me. Harry Boyd Tony Spezio wrote: You also have to wait till the varnish flows down past the wrap so you don'tet arun. ..... As for wrapping the guides before or after that will have to be up to you, Iaveonly done mine with the guides wrapped. from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed May 10 14:15:34 2000 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id HAA27681; Thu,11 May 2000 07:15:13 +1200 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish I have an old ( 1950s) Australian book about building fishing rods forsaltwater fishing. It recommends giving the rods several coats of frenchpolish once they are completed. I have wondered about it several times asfrench polish is fairly easy to apply . Maybe they considered that beer would not affect the rod as an Australianwould never take anything else to a day by the beach sea fishing. regards Ian Kearney At 10:08 AM 10/05/00 -0600, Ralph W Moon wrote:Chris You are right. I finished a rod for my wife more than twenty years agowith a modified french polish. I was able to put on about six coats ina day; the build is probably 1/2 one coat of varnish. It does not havethat patent leather plastic look of Poly varnishes. It has never beenrecoated and today looks almost as it did twenty years ago.Incidentally one of the components is shellac. Please, don't ask forthe formula, it was given to me in confidence by a highly repsected rodmaker. Ralph from rmoon@ida.net Wed May 10 14:27:34 2000 0000 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish IanEver stop to think that Beer may be the secret ingrediant?Ralph from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed May 10 14:52:04 2000 Thu, 11 May 2000 03:51:49 +0800 Thu, 11 May 2000 03:51:45 +0800 Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Most would agree with that. If not actually secrete at least immenselysignificant. Tony At 01:24 PM 5/10/00 -0600, Ralph W Moon wrote:IanEver stop to think that Beer may be the secret ingrediant?Ralph /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html And this our life, exempt from public haunt,Finds tongues in trees, books in running brooks,Sermons in stones, and good in everything. William Shakespeare, As You Like It /*************************************************************************/ from chris@artistree.com Wed May 10 15:28:38 2000 Subject: Bamboo in South America Well I get some interesting emails and this is one of them. Anyone feellike traveling down south to help these folks out. Sounds like they needa consultant. I know I saw some posts in the past regardingexperimenting with other types of bamboo's. Gary Hunnisett wrote: Dear sir, I am working for a tropical rainforest conservation project in GuyanaSouthAmerica. The project objective is sustainable management of theresource ,and are main sources of income are tourism, reduced impact logging, andnontimber forest products. We are a staff of about 70 persons , includingforest ecologists and wood specialists. We work very closely withAmerindian communities in the area of our concession. (http://www.sdnp.org.gy/iwokrama.html for more information ) We have a wide variety of species of bamboo in the protected areasectionof the reserve, and it was suggested there may be some application toproduce bamboo sections for use in fly rod production. Unfortunatelynoneof has any idea of the species ( "Tonken" but other than that ...) that areappropriate, nor more importantly the objective criteria by which thespecies is assessed for its use in fly rod making. I assume there aresomeobjective types of tests that can be done to see if the variety does havepotential. (?) Is there any guidance you could give us? If there are possibilities wehave the funding and interest to hire the consultants to come down andadvise us, lbut as a preliminary gesture , would appreciate anycomments orsuggestions you may have to offer. Thank youGary Hunnisettemail: ghunnisett@solutions2000.net from anglport@con2.com Wed May 10 17:15:35 2000 (SMTPD32-6.00) id ADF9FD026E; Wed, 10 May 2000 18:08:57 -0400 Subject: Re:Wrapping over varnish Shellac, like lacquer, can look good when new, but it has a short life. GMA George,I think the fellows who put the "French polish" on all those antiquesinthe Louvre and the castles of England might be interested to hear that! *G*Art from sniderja@email.uc.edu Wed May 10 17:44:01 2000 "'punky@integratedmillsystems.com'",RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Thin vs. Thick finish tungnuts so it is what is called a natural, reactive finish. Danish oilconsists of linseed or tung oil, usually buffered with resins and typicallyhas a lot of mineral spirits added for easier handling. Danish oil could beconsidered an ultra-thin oil varnish, so I'm told. It is easy to use, butusually is so heavily diluted with mineral spirits that it loses much ofits protective properties. Linseed oil is made from flax seed and thus alsois a natural, reactive finish. Takes a long time to dry and is soft, thusnot affording much in the way of scratch resistance.J. Snider At 11:44 AM 05/10/2000 -0700, Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD wrote:i use spar varnish to coat the guide wraps. i was told that spar is tungoil based, and would bond well to the oil finnish.to date it has worked as billed. for varnish i used man-o-war previously,and recently interlux brightsides clipper varnish (left over from awoodenboat i recently built). i have used both "tung oil" and "danish oil" which appear to be the samestuff (the danish oil was recommended by a custom gunsmith who used itthefinnish gun stocks, and raved about the stuff). just my two cents. chris -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:40 AM Subject: Re: Thin vs. Thick finish When using oil to finish a rod, would you still use varnish to coat thewraps? Or would tung oil be ok for them as well? Keith from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed May 10 18:48:16 2000 0300 Subject: Silk lines I think I hit pay dirt right here in my own house!! While searching adark corner of my house I found a piece of cardboard that I stashed awayquite a few years ago and forgot about. What's so special about a pieceof cardboard you ask? Well nothing but what is on it is! A long time agoI bought a old GILMOUR reel at a flea market and it had old line on itso I stripped it and wound it on a piece of cardboard for laterinspection.... Now that I know a little more I realized that there arein fact three pieces here. First a bunch of old backing, garbage. Next abraided yellow line which isn't sticky (don't know what it is??) Thirdis a caramel colored ,sticky line which I think might be silk???What I would like to know is, how do you know it is silk and isthere some other old line I could have this confused with? Both theyellow and caramel colored line appear to be level, braided and coated. HELP????? from CAIrvinerods@aol.com Wed May 10 18:56:04 2000 Subject: Spinning Rod Taper I am looking for a spinning rod taper in the 5 1/2 foot range very light to ultra light. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who might have oneone tucked away. Thanks and Tight Lines, Chuck from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed May 10 19:02:24 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Wed, 10 May 2000 19:03:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Silk lines If it's plastic it will melt, where I would think silk would not. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Silk lines I think I hit pay dirt right here in my own house!! While searching adark corner of my house I found a piece of cardboard that I stashed awayquite a few years ago and forgot about. What's so special about a pieceof cardboard you ask? Well nothing but what is on it is! A long time agoI bought a old GILMOUR reel at a flea market and it had old line on itso I stripped it and wound it on a piece of cardboard for laterinspection.... Now that I know a little more I realized that there arein fact three pieces here. First a bunch of old backing, garbage. Next abraided yellow line which isn't sticky (don't know what it is??) Thirdis a caramel colored ,sticky line which I think might be silk???What I would like to know is, how do you know it is silk and isthere some other old line I could have this confused with? Both theyellow and caramel colored line appear to be level, braided and coated. HELP????? from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed May 10 19:05:50 2000 17:17:10 PDT Subject: re: Spinning Rod Taper Hi Chuck, Here are a few tapers listed a while ago by Richard Tyree. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu The listing below is part one of those spin, spincast, and casting rod tapers I have. Hope you get some good from them:1. 5'-6", 2-pc, ultra light spin rod, # 11 F and # 4.5 tip top0" through 60" @ 5" increments, sans varnish070 - 092 - 104 - 110 - 124 - 144 - 166 - 182 - 188 - 206 - 236 - 250-2502. 5'-0", 2-pc, UL spin rod, # 11 F and # 5 tip top0" through 60" @ 5" increments, sans varnish072 - 074 - 092 - 104 - 110 - 124 - 144 - 166 - 182 - 188 - 206 - 236-250 - 250 Note: 1. and 2. actually are two different rods. Have built # 2 and it is a fine taper.3. 7'-0" spin rod for 6 - 10 # monofilament, 2-pc, # 15 F and # 6 tip top from 1.5" through 70", random due to guides. Note: recommend graphing 5" increments. 1.5-100 ; 4.5-115 ; 6.5 - 120 ; 10 - 132 ; 15 - 146 ; 19 - 134 ; 21.5 -167 ; 25 - 179 ; 30 - 194 ; 35 - 206 ; 40.5 - 214 ; 44.5 - 238 ; 50 - 252 ; 55 - 267 ; 60 - 280 ; 65 - 294 ; 70 - 3084. 73" Spin cast, 2-pc with F between 41.5" and 45" dimensions, but could be placed wherever the builder wants. This rod had permanent, straight handle, but could be made for off- set handle as well. A fairly slow action, too slow for traditional (1940's and 50's) casting type reels but ok forspin cast or modern small reels such as Spidermite and light mono orspiderwire and 1/4-oz or smaller lures. Random measurements due to guides andferrule. 1.25 - 080 ; 5 - 090 ; 10 - 111 ; 19.5 - 144 ; 25 - 156 ; 29 - 168 ; 31- 173 ; 35 - 181 ; 39.5 - 197 ; 41.5 - 200 ; 45 - 217 ; 49-7/8 - 237 ; 55- 270 ; 60 - 288 ; 65 - 307 ; 73 - 322More later, RTyree Here is another taper for a bamboo spin rod. This 6' rod is light action, up to 1/4-oz. Bends well into the butt. Originally built as 1-pc, then ferruled with no apparent change of response.1.25 - 083; 5 - 085; 10 - 100; 15 - 123; 20 - 138; 25 - 155; 30 - 165; 34.5 - 175; 38.25 - 190; 40 - 196; 44.75 - 207; 50 - 220; 55 - 235; 60 - 245; 62.5 - 250; 65 72 - 255Note: Reduce by 003/004 due to measuring with varnish; unable to locateoriginal taper. RTyree ---------- Original Text ---------- I am looking for a spinning rod taper in the 5 1/2 foot range very light to ultra light. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who might have oneone tucked away. Thanks and Tight Lines, Chuck from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed May 10 19:19:57 2000 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Wed, 10 May 2000 19:21:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Re:Wrapping over varnish