Subject: RE: Heading to Grayling!!! boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFD89E.493D9BF0" Importance: Normal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFD89E.493D9BF0 I'm leaving Monday morning.Staying at Penrods. Olaf BorgeSilk fly lines bought and soldE6907 Monument Rock RoadFranklin Township Vernon County WisconsinMail: P.O. Box 361 Viroqua, Wisconsin 54665Email: oborge@mwt.netPhone: 608-675-3509 -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:11 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Heading to Grayling!!! I'm jealous... have fun all you grayrock attendees! Darrellwww.vfish.net-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 5:01 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Heading to Grayling!!! I'am leaving this morning with a couple of stops in between. See youfolks wed. Save a few for me, don't drink them all.Rich Jezioro At 07:56 PM 6/16/00, reed curry wrote: Mike,I'm on my way. See you at Spike's.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Mike Biondo wrote: Hello folks... I'll be heading up to Graying Monday morning for the RODMAKERSGathering.I will be away from email for the entire next week. Hopefully thelistwill be running without problems while I'm away. If anyone hassubscription problems, I'll be happy to deal with them upon myreturn, orCo-Listguy Jerry Ballard could probably help also. Looking forward to seeing some of you in Grayling... Mike BiondoRODMAKERS Listguy -- *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > >))):> ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFD89E.493D9BF0 leaving Monday morning.Staying atPenrods. Olaf BorgeSilk fly lines bought and soldE6907= 361 Viroqua, Wisconsin 54665Email: oborge@mwt.netPhone: = LeeSent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:11 richjez@enteract.com; rcurry@ttlc.net; = Grayling!!! jealous... have fun all you grayrock attendees! Darrellwww.vfish.net JezioroSent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 5:01 = Grayling!!!I'am leaving this = a couple of stops in between. See you folks wed. Save a few for me, = drink them all. Rich JezioroAt 07:56 PM 6/16/00, reed = wrote: my = See you at Spike's.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/Mike = subscription problems, I'll be happy to deal with them upon my = = = = ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFD89E.493D9BF0-- from lblove@cableone.net Sat Jun 17 20:58:45 2000 e5I1wiG06098 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.447.44);Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:58:44 -0700 Subject: moving, offline boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001F_01BFD89E.0C4BF480" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BFD89E.0C4BF480 tight linesBrad ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BFD89E.0C4BF480 = Will hear from you all again in a week, = tight linesBrad ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BFD89E.0C4BF480-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Jun 17 21:55:00 2000 e5I2sxG06692 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: A to Z Index of Patent Classes - Class D04C - IPC Classification - PIPERS Patent Resources boundary="------------BD7AA50CE35268D7EA768A08" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- BD7AA50CE35268D7EA768A08 Perhaps this will be of use..... http://www.piperpat.co.nz/ipc/d04c.html Shawn Pineo --------------BD7AA50CE35268D7EA768A08 name="d04c.html" filename="d04c.html"Content-Base: "http://www.piperpat.co.nz/ipc/d04c.html"Content-Location: "http://www.piperpat.co.nz/ipc/d04c.html" A to Z Index of Patent Classes - Class D04C - IPC Classification -PIPERS Patent Resources PIPERS Home |IPC Home |IPC Classes | Notice Board | PIPERS | IPC PATENT CLASSIFICATIONPIPERS Virtual Intellectual Property LibrarySECTION D - TEXTILES; PAPERBRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET ORCARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACED04C D04C 1 /00 Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof1 /02 made from particular materials1 /04 Carbonised or like lace1 /06 Braid or lace serving particularpurposes1 /08 Tulle fabrics1 /10 Pattern tulle fabrics1 /12 Cords, lines, ortowsD04C 3 /00 Braiding or lacing machines3 /02 with spool carriers guided by trackplates or by bobbin heads exclusively3 /04 with spool carriers guided andreciprocating in non-endless paths3 /06 with spool carriers moving alwaysin the same direction in endless paths3 /08 with means for superimposingthreads or braids3 /10 with means for forming edgeloops, ears, or eyes3 /12 with means for introducing corethreads3 /14 Spool carriers3 /16 for horizontal spools3 /18 for vertical spools3 /20 Arrangement of bobbin heads andguides or track plates in the machine3 /22 Guides or track plates (with 3/24)3 /24 Devices for controlling spoolcarriers to obtain patterns, e.g. devices on guides or track plates3 /26 by stopping bobbin heads3 /28 by stopping only the spoolcarrier3 /30 by controlling switches of guidesor track plates3 /32 Pattern input3 /34 Beater or beat-up mechanisms3 /36 Frames3 /38 Driving-gear; Starting or stoppingmechanisms3 /40 for making tubular braids bycirculating strand supplies around braiding centre at equal distances3 /42 with means for forming sheds bycontrolling guides for individual threads3 /44 with means for forming sheds bysubsequently diverting various threads using the same guiding means3 /46 with thread carriers supported onrolls3 /48 AuxiliarydevicesD04C 5 /00 Twist or bobbin-net lace-making machines5 /02 Net looms for tulle fabrics5 /04 Net or lace curtain machines5 /06 Machines for making twist- lacefabrics 5 /10 Bobbin-carriage guides; Drives forswinging bobbin carriages5 /12 Drives for advancing bobbincarriages5 /14 Pattern input5 /16 Warp thread feeding or guidingdevices5 /18 Guide bars; Guiding meanstherefor; Pattern input by control thereof5 /20 Jacks or pickers; Pattern input bycontrol thereof5 /22 Delivery devices5 /24 Driving-gear; Starting or stoppingmechanisms5 /26 AuxiliarydevicesD04C 7 /00 Tools or apparatus for braiding or lacing by hand Return to thePIPERS Home Page PIPERS Home |IPC Home |IPC Classes | Notice Board | PIPERS | This page was lastmodified: ")document.write (modied)document.write ("")//- -> --------------BD7AA50CE35268D7EA768A08-- from EM11EM22@aol.com Sun Jun 18 02:01:45 2000 e5I71iG08731 Subject: RE: Heading to Grayling!!! One of you guys should take lots of photos from Grayling, and put them onthe list!!!!! from fiveside@net-gate.com Sun Jun 18 10:10:04 2000 e5IFA4G12718 LAA01640 for ; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 11:09:02 Subject: Penta Tapers To the List,Due to the overwhelming number of requests (there were 3 or 4) thedimensions of two of my best penta tapers follow:Rod #1: 7'3'' one piece (no ferrule) for a wt 4: station 5:.079, 10:.101,15:.118, 20:.133, 25:.146, 30:.160, 35:.172, 40:.185, 45:.197, 50:.209,55:.222, 60:.235, 65:.248, 70:.261, 75:.274 Rod #2: 7'6'', 2-piece, size 14 ferrule for a wt 5: station 5:.082,10:.106, 15:.124, 20:.139, 25:.153, 30:.162, 35:.180, 40:.193, 45:.206,50:.221, 55:.236, 60:.251, 65:.266, 70:.280, 75:.295, 80:.310 Note that these dimensions are inner diameters which are the numbersusedto set your planing forms (divide by 2). The dimensions you get when youmike the rod will be different due to penta geometry. If someone wishes to build rod #1 with a ferrule get back to me off listand I will run a compatible taper for you. Len Histand's software is useful from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Jun 18 10:56:52 2000 e5IFuqG13231 Sun, 18 Jun 2000 12:56:48 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Penta Tapers Bill,thanks allot for the tapers! I would probably build #1 with a ferrule.Where can you get Len's program??Good to see I wasn't the only list member who didn't get to Grayling!Thanks,Shawn Pineo Bill Fink wrote: To the List,Due to the overwhelming number of requests (there were 3 or 4) thedimensions of two of my best penta tapers follow:Rod #1: 7'3'' one piece (no ferrule) for a wt 4: station 5:.079, 10:.101,15:.118, 20:.133, 25:.146, 30:.160, 35:.172, 40:.185, 45:.197, 50:.209,55:.222, 60:.235, 65:.248, 70:.261, 75:.274 Rod #2: 7'6'', 2-piece, size 14 ferrule for a wt 5: station 5:.082,10:.106, 15:.124, 20:.139, 25:.153, 30:.162, 35:.180, 40:.193, 45:.206,50:.221, 55:.236, 60:.251, 65:.266, 70:.280, 75:.295, 80:.310 Note that these dimensions are inner diameters which are the numbersusedto set your planing forms (divide by 2). The dimensions you get when youmike the rod will be different due to penta geometry. If someone wishes to build rod #1 with a ferrule get back to me off listand I will run a compatible taper for you. Len Histand's software is useful from Canerods@aol.com Sun Jun 18 20:49:35 2000 e5J1nYG18713 Subject: Man-O-War Varnish in a can All, I recently bought a couple of cans of Man-O-War in sparay cans. Just tried it out on an 8'6" Heddon #10 that I'm refinishing. I'm impressed. I can put down a light layer or a heavy layer without creating and runs. I still need to put the final varnish layer on the rod, but it looks more like a factory varnish job (thinner) than my dip tube results. Which might reflect more on my techniques than on the two methods. Or as they say - results may vary. Don Burns from cattanac@wmis.net Sun Jun 18 22:55:23 2000 e5J3tMG20292 Subject: An Excellent Start Well it is now just a bit before midnight on sunday - and the and Rodmakers At GrayRock 00 has begun - there are about 15 folks herealready - Including our Aussie guest Tony Young - who is an excellent cook by the way - the event tonight was casting to the rising cat - Moses was the target of the attention as Reed unveiled a as new 6' 6" Eagle Claw 'parabolic' fiberglass - hey - it's sunday OK - which proved to be an extremely accurate casting tool - the line could be laid between the cat's ears on 4 out of 8 casts at about 30' - Oh a few folks did make it to the river to catch a couple fish and yes there will be pictures and reports of the infinate wisdoms shared ___________________________________________________Email sent using WMIS Internet (http://www.wmis.net/)Premium Internet Services from mep@mint.net Mon Jun 19 04:03:42 2000 e5J93fG23110 Mon, 19 Jun 2000 05:03:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Man-O-War Varnish in a can You can pick up a rig at your local auto parts store (try one that caters tothelocal garages and sells auto finishes) that will let you spray anything. It'scalled a Preval sprayer, no ozone damaging hydrocarbons in it. Designed fortouchup in auto finishes. Comes with a 6 ounce glass reservoir. Gives aprofessionalquality spray. Ideally you need a spray thinner ( dries faster than say,mineralspirits). Available with most marine varnishes. A little tricky until you get theknack. You can buy another spray can when it runs out ( it will spray 16ounces).Works great. Cheap too! The usual ventilation precautions apply whensprayingvarnish. Mike Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, I recently bought a couple of cans of Man-O-War in sparay cans. Just trieditout on an 8'6" Heddon #10 that I'm refinishing. I'm impressed. I can put down a light layer or a heavy layer without creating and runs. I still need to put the final varnish layer on the rod, but it looks morelike a factory varnish job (thinner) than my dip tube results. Which might reflect more on my techniques than on the two methods. Or as they say - results may vary. Don Burns from earsdws@duke.edu Mon Jun 19 06:05:19 2000 e5JB5IG24083 HAA01658; Organization: Hearing Research Laboratories, Duke University Medical Center Rodmakers Subject: Re: Hock Group Order - Da Planes,Da Planes are in! ... thank you Tattoo... Darrell,As smooth as this went, I'm thinking you should do a group order on ChevySuburbans!dws. "Darrell A. Lee" wrote: Hello! I'm pleased to say the Hock Blades came in right on schedule! A verypleasant surprise! Here's the list of orders, I'm trying to pack them all today and get them inthe mail today so hopefully you'll get them around next Tuesday. I have tosay, you guys were all a pleasure to work with, I'm glad it worked out forall of us. Let me know how you like the Hock Blades and if you are able totell the difference. If the group buys keep being this smooth, I'll keepworking on get us more good deals... Well, what do we want to buy next...Please exclude the Lie-Nielsens and bamboo... anything else? Maybe I'll doan REC order, their products are excellent... Check your blades to be sure you got the correct blades, any problems,please email me. Ciao! Darrellwww.vfish.net ORDERS================== Art Port2 - BL162 George Aldrich1 - BL1384 - BL162 David Munizza1 - BL162 David Smith2 - BL162 Greg Taliani2 BL162 Lowell Davis2 - BL162 Rick Crenshaw1 - BL1382 - BL162 Paul Goodwin1 - BL1381 - BL162 Don Burns1 - BL162 from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Jun 19 10:07:06 2000 e5JF75G29536 Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:07:02 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Man-O-War Varnish in a can Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, I recently bought a couple of cans of Man-O-War in sparay cans. Just trieditout on an 8'6" Heddon #10 that I'm refinishing. Don, and others,Does anyone know where I might buy a gallon, ore even a couple ofquarts,of Man O' War through the mail? I've tried every local haunt within 100 miles,and no luck.Thanks, Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Jun 19 10:07:11 2000 e5JF7AG29553 Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:07:02 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: An Excellent Start Wayne, Tony, and others, Glad to hear that a few fish were caught this year. I seem to rememberthat last year no one caught a single fish! :-) Just kidding!Wish I were there, but I'm tied down tight with the business of ministry.Rick C. and I may coerce our relative SWMBO's into allowing us to make thetrip next year. You know, hold up the reputation of us "Suthen boys." Keepthe reports coming, and tell everyone hello. Harry cattanac@wmis.net wrote: Well it is now just a bit before midnight on sunday - and the andRodmakers At GrayRock 00 has begun - there are about 15 folks herealready- Including our Aussie guest Tony Young - who is an excellent cook by theway - the event tonight was casting to the rising cat - Moses was thetarget of the attention as Reed unveiled a as new 6' 6" Eagle Claw'parabolic' fiberglass - hey - it's sunday OK - which proved to be anextremely accurate casting tool - the line could be laid between the cat'sears on 4 out of 8 casts at about 30' - Oh a few folks did make it to theriver to catch a couple fish and yes there will be pictures and reports ofthe infinate wisdoms shared___________________________________________________Email sent using WMIS Internet (http://www.wmis.net/)Premium Internet Services --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Jun 19 10:45:29 2000 e5JFjSG01359 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Man-O-War Varnish in a can Importance: Normal A Google web search came up with this site... http://www.flounderbay.com/page2.htm I'd don't know if they stock the old stuff or what... give them a try andlet me know... Darrell -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Man-O-War Varnish in a can Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, I recently bought a couple of cans of Man-O-War in sparay cans. Just trieditout on an 8'6" Heddon #10 that I'm refinishing. Don, and others,Does anyone know where I might buy a gallon, ore even a couple ofquarts,of Man O' War through the mail? I've tried every local haunt within 100miles,and no luck.Thanks, Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Mon Jun 19 11:16:03 2000 e5JGG2G02836 Subject: Re: Man-O-War Varnish in a can Try Varspar's web site - they are the maker of McCloskey products (Man-O- War) and they should be able to provide you with local outlets. Most hardware chains in S. California sell Man-O-War. Don from Canerods@aol.com Mon Jun 19 11:27:12 2000 e5JGRBG03415 Subject: Re: Man-O-War Varnish in a can Try: http://www.o-geepaint.com/ArchiCoats/ArchiCoats.html from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Mon Jun 19 11:35:45 2000 e5JGZjG03803 with ESMTPA id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:35:46 EDT Subject: Nodeless Splices What method to create nodeless splices do you recommend to a beginner ifhe does not want to buy a set of nodeless splice forms to start.Jim T from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Mon Jun 19 14:08:28 2000 e5JJ8RG08680 Subject: balance boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0631_01BFDA00.DAC40D80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0631_01BFDA00.DAC40D80 This weekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were fishing =and we were both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt =while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish weren't =biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His rod felt =like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced and =mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an =orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping = So my setup which probably weighs more seemed to be much lighter. I =could imagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but I didn't think =the difference could feel so dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0631_01BFDA00.DAC40D80 This weekend another list member(Dave = myself were fishing and we were both using the new rods we've built. = 7' 3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish = biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His rod felt = weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced and mine = Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an orvis CFO (I = was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping guide than the grip. = So my setup which probably weighsmore = much lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but = didn't think the difference could feel so dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0631_01BFDA00.DAC40D80-- from cfreaner@hq.nasa.gov Mon Jun 19 14:23:44 2000 e5JJNhG09256 Subject: Another virus going around... This info is provided only for your information.Claude Subject: VBS/Stages Virus Discovered at NASAFrom: IT Notice Sender: owner-headquarters@lists.hq.nasa.gov This message is being transmitted to all NASA HQ employees.Point of Contact: IntelliCenter, (202) 358-HELP (4357)------------------------------------- ---------------------------- VBS/Stages Virus Discovered at NASA A virus called VBS/Stages is in circulation in the NASAenvironment. VBS/Stages.A is a worm that has recently beendiscovered "in-the-wild". Taking advantage of a flaw in theMicrosoft operating system, which causes .SHS extensions to behidden even after the user enables extension viewing inMicrosoft Explorer, the worm appears to be an innocent text file.VBS/Stages.A also takes advantage of a vulnerability found insome antivirus products which ignore any files in or being sentto the Recycle Bin. (Command AntiVirus fully protects theRecycle Bin and thus is not victim to this maneuver). VBS/Stages.A is received via e-mail with one of the followingsubject lines: FW: Life StagesFW: FunnyFW: JokesFW: Text If the attached file, Life_Stages.txt.shs is executed, the wormdeletes Regedit.exe and modifies the registry to point toRegedit.VXD from the Recycle Bin. It also creates several fileson any local or mapped drives available to the user. If you receive any of these messages, DELETE THE MESSAGE FROMYOUR INBOX. If you have accidentally opened the attachment,please contact the IntelliCenter, 358-HELP for assistance. -----------------------------------------------------------------This "IT Notice" is being transmitted by InfoCom,Code CI-3, HQ Information Technology & CommunicationsDivision. For more information on InfoCom services, call(202) 358-2299 or (202) 358-4817, or visit the InfoCom webpage at http://www.hq.nasa.gov/hq/infocom.htm from dati@selway.umt.edu Mon Jun 19 14:42:24 2000 e5JJgNG10254 13:42:27 -0600 Subject: taper Hello all, Can anyone recommend a taper for a rod around 6' - 7' long for use with a4 - 5 wt line. I would like it to cast tight loops around 30' on small to medium size streams yet I would like it to be able to shootfarther if needed. I am really debating between the Paul Young Midge,Paul Young Perfectionist and the garrison 201e. If anyone has experiencewith these rods, please let me know what you think of them. I have alsoheard good reports of the Sir D. Yet, I don't have the taper for that rodto compare it to the others. Thanks so much for your helpDarin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Jun 19 15:00:29 2000 e5JK0TG11126 Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:00:25 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: taper Darin,although the Perfectionist is a 7'6" rod it, is one of my favorites!Can't go wrong with the Midge or Sir D! Payne 97 ,Leonard 38H might be ofinterest. Perhaps one of AJ's tapers as well! Decisions ,decisions! So manyrods so little time! I'm sure you wouldn't be happy with any of these! Shawn Darin J Law wrote: Hello all, Can anyone recommend a taper for a rod around 6' - 7' long for use with a4 - 5 wt line. I would like it to cast tight loops around 30'on small to medium size streams yet I would like it to be able to shootfarther if needed. I am really debating between the Paul Young Midge,Paul Young Perfectionist and the garrison 201e. If anyone has experiencewith these rods, please let me know what you think of them. I have alsoheard good reports of the Sir D. Yet, I don't have the taper for that rodto compare it to the others. Thanks so much for your helpDarin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from caneman@clnk.com Mon Jun 19 15:23:30 2000 e5JKNUG12044 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:18:50 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Nodeless Splices Jim,First, don't buy the scarfing blocks. If you have a table saw, or afriend with one, you can make them out of either aluminum, oak or maple andhave a great set.As far as method, the most accepted method, and the only one I haveeverused, is to scarf the peices together so that the seam runs diagonallyacross the enamel. Good luck,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Nodeless Splices What method to create nodeless splices do you recommend to a beginner ifhe does not want to buy a set of nodeless splice forms to start.Jim T from FlyfishT@aol.com Mon Jun 19 15:36:27 2000 e5JKaQG12865; Subject: Re: taper RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Hi Darin,I just made the SIR D its a quick stick. It will throw tight loops and extend a 14 ft leader and tippet. Tom from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Jun 19 17:11:30 2000 e5JMBTG16346 Subject: Re: taper It is hard to beat the Sir "D". My son in law used the Sir "D" I made him forthe first time today. I was amazed at the perfect loops he was throwing.. Hehas only fished with a fly rod one time, that was last year . Yes, he didcatch three trout.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com FlyfishT@aol.com wrote: Hi Darin,I just made the SIR D its a quick stick. It will throw tight loops andextend a 14 ft leader and tippet. Tom from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Jun 19 17:43:20 2000 e5JMhKG17090 (204.186.33.5) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: taper Hi Darin, It's hard to beat the PY Midge. I have recently miked an FEThomas Special 61/2' 2 pc. #4/5 line and will post the taper if you oranyone is interested. Neat rod though it may be more of a #5 than a #4.Marty Hello all, Can anyone recommend a taper for a rod around 6' - 7' long for use with a4 - 5 wt line. I would like it to cast tight loops around 30'on small to medium size streams yet I would like it to be able to shootfarther if needed. I am really debating between the Paul Young Midge,Paul Young Perfectionist and the garrison 201e. If anyone has experiencewith these rods, please let me know what you think of them. I have alsoheard good reports of the Sir D. Yet, I don't have the taper for that rodto compare it to the others. Thanks so much for your helpDarin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from grandriverangler@sprint.ca Mon Jun 19 18:52:10 2000 e5JNq9G18371 Subject: finishing reel seats boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0036_01BFDA27.43D6E600" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01BFDA27.43D6E600 Can anyone suggest a finish for reel seats that I am making myself. = Thanks in advance. Mark Babiy ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01BFDA27.43D6E600 Can anyone suggest a finish for reel seats that I am= Thanks in advance. Mark Babiy ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01BFDA27.43D6E600-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Jun 19 19:07:26 2000 e5K07PG18676 Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: balance "'Rodmakers Listserv'" BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_ILNNDupKWZ2duXuyYbEJzQ)"Importance: Normal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_ILNNDupKWZ2duXuyYbEJzQ) Paul, that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please send it tome immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will better balanceyour rod. I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 PM Subject: balance This weekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were fishing andwe were both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt whilemine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish weren't biting (whichwas while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His rod felt like it weighedabout a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced and mine with a 3"Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an orvis CFO (I thinkit was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping guide than the grip. So my setup which probably weighs more seemed to be much lighter. I couldimagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but I didn't think thedifference could feel so dramatic. Paul--Boundary_(ID_ILNNDupKWZ2duXuyYbEJzQ) that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please send it to me = immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will better balance = I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. Richard GoodwinSent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 ListservSubject: balanceThis weekend another list member = myself were fishing and we were both using the new rods we've built. = a 7' 3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the = weren't biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His = like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced = with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an = (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping guide than = So my setup which probably weighs = be much lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel = didn't think the difference could feel so dramatic. Paul --Boundary_(ID_ILNNDupKWZ2duXuyYbEJzQ)-- from oakmere@carol.net Mon Jun 19 19:07:58 2000 e5K07wG18783 Subject: RE: URAC Life Hi Folks: Question for adhesive experts. I know URAC has a fixed life when left atroom temperature. Can URAC adhesive life be extended by keeping itrefrigerated? If so, what temperature is best to keep the material and howlong will it extend the materials life as a function of temperature? I amassuming that freezing is a no-no. Any input appreciated. Thanks, FrankFrank Paul, GreyFox2932 North Bayshore DriveSeneca, SC 29672Summer Residence: Troutbeck Cottage, Rt 44, Waterville, PAfwpaul@ces.clemson.edu (work)oakmere@carol.net (home) from cathcreek@hotmail.com Mon Jun 19 19:41:25 2000 e5K0fOG19424 Mon, 19 Jun 2000 17:41:21 PDT rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: taper The Sir D is very close to the PHY Driggs from my understanding. Have not cast a Sir D, but the Driggs is an awesome taper. Either would be a good bet in my opinion. Robert Clarke From: FlyfishT@aol.com RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: taperDate: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:35:38 EDT Hi Darin,I just made the SIR D its a quick stick. It will throw tight loops andextend a 14 ft leader and tippet. Tom ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from Nodewrrior@aol.com Mon Jun 19 20:03:42 2000 e5K13gG19826 Subject: Re: taper I've had great success with the Garrison 201E. The thing is, that's all people have been requesting from me and there are so many other tapers I'm itching to try. With my output being so small, it's kind of a bind...The Sir D makes a fine rod as does the Payne 98 which leans close to a 5 wt. both of which I've made. Rob Hoffhines from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jun 19 20:14:31 2000 e5K1EUG20094 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:00:43 -0500 Subject: Re: measure You have it correct for real accuracy Ralph. I use calipers for "eye ball"measurements, but when I'm cutting, the mic comes out ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: measure After 30 years of rodmaking, I finally bought a dial caliper. I havealways used a micrometer. After having tried the caliper, I find that Istill prefer my mic. The caliper seems ok for large and roughapproximations, but I seriously question its accuracy. That is if I amusing it correctly, and I may not be. I seem to see that the majorityare using calipers. Can anyone convince me they are a better instrument Ralph from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Jun 19 20:15:34 2000 e5K1FYG20200 (204.186.33.71) Organization: ProLog Subject: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line A guy up in Roscoe NY told me he had this rod so I figured I'd go afishin' in the Beaverkill. It turns out the guy owns a stretch of wateron the Upper Beaverkill River so I brought a rod (Paul YoungPerfectionist Taper) and my mike. I have never seen a 61/2' Thomas butthe guy I went with (ex. Leonard Rod Co. employee) said he had seen 3before. Caught the 2 biggest Browns on a dry I have ever caught (5 & 6lbs) but that is another story. Gorgeous rod with full intermediates.It's a fast action rod that the owner claims is more of a 5 wt. There isa big step in the dimension at the ferrule station (step down ferrule).If you use a super Z style you will have to do some adjusting. Anyway,Here is the taper. All measurements are an average of 3 readings and.004 has been taken off for varnish. FE Thomas Special 6' 6" #4/5 2pc.TIP BUTT00 .063 .19805 .074 .21310 .098 .22315 .119 .22620 .138 .24625 .154 .26230 .165 .29235 .169 ? under grip.181 at ferruleGuide Spacing (rod has 6 snakes + 1 stripper, I will add 1 more snakewhen I make it) from tip top5 1/8"10 1/2"17 1/8"24 3/4"32 1/4" from tip of female ferrule2 1/2"10 7/8" stripper5 1/4" cork grip3 1/4" cap & ring seat from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Jun 19 20:17:53 2000 e5K1HqG20370 (204.186.33.71) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: taper Who's taper is the Sir D anyway. Marty I've had great success with the Garrison 201E. The thing is, that's allpeople have been requesting from me and there are so many other tapersI'mitching to try. With my output being so small, it's kind of a bind...The Sir D makes a fine rod as does the Payne 98 which leans close to a 5wt.both of which I've made. Rob Hoffhines from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Jun 19 20:42:26 2000 e5K1gPG20917 Subject: Re: URAC Life Refrigeration will extend the life up to 2 years or more. I use Cascoresin, a canadian product similar to Urac, and the company technician toldme that the resin life doubles for every 10 degree drop in storagetemperature. For example, the resin has a shelf life of about 3 months atroom temperature. Drop it to 60 degrees and its good for 6 months, 50degrees a year, 40 degrees 2 years, etc. If the resin develops lumps,throw it away. As long as its smooth and creamy its safe to use. ----------From: Frank W. Paul Subject: RE: URAC LifeDate: Monday, June 19, 2000 8:07 PM Hi Folks: Question for adhesive experts. I know URAC has a fixed life when left atroom temperature. Can URAC adhesive life be extended by keeping itrefrigerated? If so, what temperature is best to keep the material andhowlong will it extend the materials life as a function of temperature? I amassuming that freezing is a no-no. Any input appreciated. Thanks, FrankFrank Paul, GreyFox2932 North Bayshore DriveSeneca, SC 29672Summer Residence: Troutbeck Cottage, Rt 44, Waterville, PAfwpaul@ces.clemson.edu (work)oakmere@carol.net (home) from tfbinn@mindspring.com Mon Jun 19 20:55:18 2000 e5K1tHG21232 Subject: Re: finishing reel seats boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFDA20.6AE0F6C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFDA20.6AE0F6C0 Mark,Try Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil gun stock finish. It goes on easy (use a =finger to rub it on), dries quickly, (recoat in 2-4 hrs) and gives a =nice finish without a lot of build up. 4-5 coats works well for me on =most woods.Winston Binney ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFDA20.6AE0F6C0 =FF=FE=00==0D=00=0A==00=00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=00M=00a=00r=00k=00,=00=00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=00T=00r=00y=00 ==00B=00i=00r=00c=00h=00w=00o=00o=00d=00=00C=00a=00s=00e=00y=00 ==00T=00r=00u=00-=00O=00i=00l=00 =00g=00u=00n=00=00s=00t=00o=00c=00k=00 ==00f=00i=00n=00i=00s=00h=00.=00 =00I=00t=00 =00=0D=00=0A==00g=00o=00e=00s=00 =00o=00n=00 =00e=00a=00s=00y=00=00(=00u=00s=00e=00 ==00a=00 =00f=00i=00n=00g=00e=00r=00 =00t=00o=00=00r=00u=00b=00 ==00i=00t=00 =00o=00n=00)=00,=00 =00d=00r=00i=00e=00s=00 ==00q=00u=00i=00c=00k=00l=00y=00,=00=00(=00r=00e=00c=00o=00a=00t=00 ==00i=00n=00 =002=00-=004=00 =00h=00r=00s=00)=00=00a=00n=00d=00 =00=0D=00=0A==00g=00i=00v=00e=00s=00 =00a=00 =00n=00i=00c=00e=00 ==00f=00i=00n=00i=00s=00h=00 =00w=00i=00t=00h=00o=00u=00t=00=00a=00 ==00l=00o=00t=00 =00o=00f=00 =00b=00u=00i=00l=00d=00 ==00u=00p=00.=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =004=00-=005=00 ==00c=00o=00a=00t=00s=00 =00w=00o=00r=00k=00s=00=00w=00e=00l=00l=00 ==00f=00o=00r=00 =00m=00e=00 =00=0D=00=0A==00o=00n=00 =00m=00o=00s=00t=00 ==00w=00o=00o=00d=00s=00.=00=00=00=0D=00=0A==00=00=00W=00i=00n=00s=00t=00o=00n=00 ==00B=00i=00n=00n=00e=00y=00=00=00=00=00=0D=00=0A==00------ =_NextPart_000_0005_01BFDA20.6AE0F6C0-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Jun 20 00:13:14 2000 e5K5DAG23788 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 20 Jun 2000 13:12:10 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Silk lines Peter,Apologies for not replying sooner. I've been away from my terminal for afew days. My contact with the braiding machine plans has unearthed themandis going to copy and send them in the next couple of days. The anticipationis nearly killing me but I'll try to survive long enough to pass on someuseful information when it turns up. Mike ps. Re Greyrock: Tony Young cooking? What a concept !! -----Original Message----- Subject: Silk lines MikeHave been offline a few days, so have missed the drift of the silk linestuff until tonight, and note with interest the thing about Cortland & theirmanufacturing gear.I'm going to run this flag up to get the comments. Sort of lateral thinkingdept - Question1 - Does the manufacture of a silk line differ in anysubstantial way from the knitting of a silk sock?Except the obvious, of course, size and length - and please, no jokes aboutfeet!If there is no essential difference, then possibly small knitting factoriesmight be interested in one-off orders in their slow periods. I don't knowabout North America, but there are quite a few of these about in Australia,including one at least in this town.Question 2 - if you can knit a tube (sock) on a domestic knitting machine,can you knit a fly line?Anybody know about that?Peter from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Jun 20 00:34:55 2000 e5K5YrG24255 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 20 Jun 2000 13:33:20 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Ernie Harrison,Rodmakers Subject: RE: Silk lines - Patent Searches Hi Douglas,I got a card with some sample silk threads attached from aplace here in West Oz called The Thread Studio. I don't know what their webaddress is but I could find out if you like. One of the threads on the cardis of the sort used to knit ties etc. so I assume it would be fine enough touse in fly lines. It comes on 3000 metre spools and I think the cost isaround the US$20 mark. If there are sixteen threads in a line and the lineis 25 yards long then one spool should have enough thread to make seven oreight lines. As cane is in rodmaking, silk is not the major expense in linemaking. Best regards Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Silk lines - Patent Searches I am just curious. What sort of silk thread does one use to braid a lineand how many yards of thread are there in a yard of say E line? What sortof money are we talking here and what sources are available? -Doug ____________(____________|===========================o/ 0 \ / | \__/ \ / Douglas Easton | \ / |\____/ Dpeaston@wzrd.com | |* from darrell@rockclimbing.org Tue Jun 20 00:43:51 2000 e5K5hpG24557 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: balance ,"'Rodmakers Listserv'" boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDA3F.97E18F80"Importance: Normal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDA3F.97E18F80 How about a South Bend automatic? Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 4:25 PM Subject: RE: balance Paul, that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please send itto me immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will better balanceyour rod. I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 PM Subject: balance This weekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were fishingand we were both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wtwhile mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish weren't biting(which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His rod felt like itweighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced and mine with a3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an orvis CFO (Ithink it was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping guide than the grip. So my setup which probably weighs more seemed to be much lighter. Icould imagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but I didn't think thedifference could feel so dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDA3F.97E18F80 about a South Bend automatic? Darrell = balancePaul, that Bougle is throwing off the = rod. Please send it to me immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel = somewhere. Richard GoodwinSent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 Rodmakers ListservSubject:balanceThis weekend another list member = and myself were fishing and we were both using the new rods we've = Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point = fish weren't biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped = rod felt like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods = and mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his = orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping = than the grip. So my setup which probably weighs = to be much lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel = but I didn't think the difference could feel so =dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDA3F.97E18F80-- from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Tue Jun 20 03:56:47 2000 e5K8ujG26666 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: taper Darin, The taper You`re asking for is PHY The Midge Its the rod (with DT4) i take with me on all my fishing these days. I`m onlyfishing small- to medium streams. The Perfectionist is perfect forrivers, mine is better with #5..... regardsdanny Can anyone recommend a taper for a rod around 6' - 7' long for use with a4 - 5 wt line. I would like it to cast tight loops around 30'on small to medium size streams yet I would like it to be able to shootfarther if needed. I am really debating between the Paul Young Midge,Paul Young Perfectionist and the garrison 201e. If anyone has experiencewith these rods, please let me know what you think of them. I have alsoheard good reports of the Sir D. Yet, I don't have the taper for that rodto compare it to the others. Thanks so much for your helpDarin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Tue Jun 20 04:10:41 2000 e5K9AdG26971 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line Marty, Sounds like an interesting rod, did You cast the rod, if so, how did itperformance? regardsdanny from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Jun 20 05:47:15 2000 e5KAlEG28055 (204.186.33.36) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line Hi Danny, No I didn't cast it but did wiggle it. The owner told meit's similar to the PYM but unlike the midge (his words) will load withonly a few feet of line out. I do feel that the Midge casts better at30'-50' than at 10-20'. That's with a #4 , the Midge was actually made Marty, Sounds like an interesting rod, did You cast the rod, if so, how did itperformance? regardsdanny from earsdws@duke.edu Tue Jun 20 08:34:58 2000 e5KDYvG01059 JAA24586; Organization: Hearing Research Laboratories, Duke University Medical Center Subject: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought Iwould throw out (up) the technique I used to glue up a very straight(with one exception, see below) first rod. (I used Gorilla PU glue.) Isimply took a piece of straight 1" angle iron and set the freshly glued,bound section in the "V," sandwiched between two pieces of wax paper.I was careful to get the twists out first. For the butt and one tip, Iused a 1"x1"x48" piece of hard-core foam insulation to put a bit ofpressure down onto the section to push it flat. I put pressure on thefoam using spring clamps all along the length. On that tip, there is aslight bend where ( from the impression on the foam) it is apparent thetip wasn't perfectly in the corner of the "V". angle iron on top, it allowed me to shine a light down between the twopieces to visualize the section to ensure straightness and placement,and used a thin, stainless ruler to gently push the section into thecorner along it's length. I then used the spring clamps to applypressure. I also did NOT use the wax paper. This tip is as straight asan arrow.The problem with the first tip, I think, given the resultingimpression in the foam, was that I didn't first crease the wax paper,but (stupidly) simply allowed to find it's own spot in the "V" when thepressure was applied. On the second tip, I didn't use the wax paper andcould visualize the piece along it's entire length. It was alsoapparent that you need to align the top piece of angle iron with the tipof the rod so that there is no space between the ends to achieve equalpressure along the length of the section. Otherwise, if the tip of therod, for example, is several inches down the iron, you get littlepressure on the tip and it wasn't held fully down.It takes only a few seconds to set it in, visualize the placementand ensure the straightness. Just an idea, I welcome comments,dws. from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Tue Jun 20 08:47:31 2000 e5KDlTG01474 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line Marty, I use my Midge on all my fishing. I do only fish in small streams, but Ithink the rod perform wellwith only a couple of meters out (DT4). But I'm not a very experiencecaster.....I think most of the PHY tapers on the list tend to be one line size heavierthan posted, but myMidge is a true #4. I`m currently making one in #3.......... regardsdanny marty wrote: Hi Danny, No I didn't cast it but did wiggle it. The owner told meit's similar to the PYM but unlike the midge (his words) will load withonly a few feet of line out. I do feel that the Midge casts better at30'-50' than at 10-20'. That's with a #4 , the Midge was actually made Marty, Sounds like an interesting rod, did You cast the rod, if so, how did itperformance? regardsdanny from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue Jun 20 08:59:21 2000 e5KDxKG01989 Subject: RE: finishing reel seats e5KDxLG01991 Just off the top of my head, since I've never made or finished a reelseat, I would think a film finish like spar or poly would be prone toscratching from contact with the reel foot. What you want is apenetrating finish that leaves very little or no film. This is onereason why stabilized inserts are so good. If I was making my own, I'dprobably soak it for several days in a natural oil finish like tung orboiled linseed oil. -----Original Message-----From: Mark and Tracey [SMTP:grandriverangler@sprint.ca]Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 5:48 PM Subject: finishing reel seats Can anyone suggest a finish for reel seats that I am making myself. Should I use the same spar that I use on my rods, or the urethane? Thanks in advance. Mark Babiy from cathcreek@hotmail.com Tue Jun 20 08:59:32 2000 e5KDxVG02056 Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:59:28 PDT Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Sound like a great idea. You might also try wacking the freshly glued rods on a table. I tried it on the last two rods and that worked amazingly. Not my idea. Big thanks to whoever on the list suggested it (I have forgotten). Robert Clarke From: "David W. Smith, Ph.D." Subject: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sectionsDate: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:39:33 -0400 Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought Iwould throw out (up) the technique I used to glue up a very straight(with one exception, see below) first rod. (I used Gorilla PU glue.) Isimply took a piece of straight 1" angle iron and set the freshly glued,bound section in the "V," sandwiched between two pieces of wax paper.I was careful to get the twists out first. For the butt and one tip, Iused a 1"x1"x48" piece of hard-core foam insulation to put a bit ofpressure down onto the section to push it flat. I put pressure on thefoam using spring clamps all along the length. On that tip, there is aslight bend where ( from the impression on the foam) it is apparent thetip wasn't perfectly in the corner of the "V". angle iron on top, it allowed me to shine a light down between the twopieces to visualize the section to ensure straightness and placement,and used a thin, stainless ruler to gently push the section into thecorner along it's length. I then used the spring clamps to applypressure. I also did NOT use the wax paper. This tip is as straight asan arrow.The problem with the first tip, I think, given the resultingimpression in the foam, was that I didn't first crease the wax paper,but (stupidly) simply allowed to find it's own spot in the "V" when thepressure was applied. On the second tip, I didn't use the wax paper andcould visualize the piece along it's entire length. It was alsoapparent that you need to align the top piece of angle iron with the tipof the rod so that there is no space between the ends to achieve equalpressure along the length of the section. Otherwise, if the tip of therod, for example, is several inches down the iron, you get littlepressure on the tip and it wasn't held fully down.It takes only a few seconds to set it in, visualize the placementand ensure the straightness. Just an idea, I welcome comments,dws. ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jun 20 09:49:02 2000 e5KEmvG04314 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 20 Jun 2000 09:34:57 -0500 Subject: Re: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line My Midge was built just after PHY announced it, in 1954. It loads better atunder 40' with a #5, than with a #4. With a #4, it will shoot quite far, butI don't like to push it ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: 61/2" FE Thomas Special #4/5 Line Marty, I use my Midge on all my fishing. I do only fish in small streams, but Ithink the rod perform wellwith only a couple of meters out (DT4). But I'm not a very experiencecaster.....I think most of the PHY tapers on the list tend to be one line sizeheavierthan posted, but myMidge is a true #4. I`m currently making one in #3.......... regardsdanny marty wrote: Hi Danny, No I didn't cast it but did wiggle it. The owner told meit's similar to the PYM but unlike the midge (his words) will load withonly a few feet of line out. I do feel that the Midge casts better at30'-50' than at 10-20'. That's with a #4 , the Midge was actually made Marty, Sounds like an interesting rod, did You cast the rod, if so, how diditperformance? regardsdanny from flytyr@southshore.com Tue Jun 20 11:18:37 2000 e5KGIaG07294 Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections I use a 60" length of hardwood with a 60* groove in it. The groove was madewith a 60* router bit on a router table. I lay the blank in the groove withthe high side in the "V" and use four shot bags to cover it full length.The shot bags conform to the taper. Sand bags would do just as well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "David W. Smith, Ph.D." wrote: Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought Iwould throw out (up) the technique I used to glue up a very straight(with one exception, see below) first rod. (I used Gorilla PU glue.) Isimply took a piece of straight 1" angle iron and set the freshly glued,bound section in the "V," sandwiched between two pieces of wax paper.I was careful to get the twists out first. For the butt and one tip, Iused a 1"x1"x48" piece of hard-core foam insulation to put a bit ofpressure down onto the section to push it flat. I put pressure on thefoam using spring clamps all along the length. On that tip, there is aslight bend where ( from the impression on the foam) it is apparent thetip wasn't perfectly in the corner of the "V". angle iron on top, it allowed me to shine a light down between the twopieces to visualize the section to ensure straightness and placement,and used a thin, stainless ruler to gently push the section into thecorner along it's length. I then used the spring clamps to applypressure. I also did NOT use the wax paper. This tip is as straight asan arrow.The problem with the first tip, I think, given the resultingimpression in the foam, was that I didn't first crease the wax paper,but (stupidly) simply allowed to find it's own spot in the "V" when thepressure was applied. On the second tip, I didn't use the wax paper andcould visualize the piece along it's entire length. It was alsoapparent that you need to align the top piece of angle iron with the tipof the rod so that there is no space between the ends to achieve equalpressure along the length of the section. Otherwise, if the tip of therod, for example, is several inches down the iron, you get littlepressure on the tip and it wasn't held fully down.It takes only a few seconds to set it in, visualize the placementand ensure the straightness. Just an idea, I welcome comments,dws. from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Tue Jun 20 12:11:58 2000 e5KHBuG09076 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id FAA22217; Wed, 21 Jun 2000 05:11:34 +1200 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Tony , I was considering doing something similar to this but was uncertain whetherthere may be a problem with the glue attaching to the hardwood. What do you do tho prevent this or is it not a problem ? . Ian At 11:18 AM 20/06/00 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I use a 60" length of hardwood with a 60* groove in it. The groove wasmadewith a 60* router bit on a router table. I lay the blank in the groove withthe high side in the "V" and use four shot bags to cover it full length.The shot bags conform to the taper. Sand bags would do just as well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "David W. Smith, Ph.D." wrote: Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought I deleted from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Jun 20 12:52:23 2000 e5KHqMG10312 Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections This would work if you have a linear taper. However, if the taper is notlinear (ie. the change in diameter over a given length is not constant alongthe entire length) then the rod will not be straight viewed from all sides. If you want to clamp a section in a form to straighten it you would need aform that was the inverse of the depth of the planning forms for it to bestraight. However, now you would have to be concerned with the binding cord.Where the rod is clamped into the form is there one, two or no layers ofstring. This would change the apparent diameter of the rod. I am able to get virtually straight sections out of my binder and I haven'tspent more than 5 minutes to straighten any of the sections I've made sofar(that would be 10 sections). I'm in the process of rebuilding my binder toincorporate the mods I've made to my garrison binder. I'll put pictures upon the web site when I'm done with it. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought Iwould throw out (up) the technique I used to glue up a very straight(with one exception, see below) first rod. (I used Gorilla PU glue.) Isimply took a piece of straight 1" angle iron and set the freshly glued,bound section in the "V," sandwiched between two pieces of wax paper.I was careful to get the twists out first. For the butt and one tip, Iused a 1"x1"x48" piece of hard-core foam insulation to put a bit ofpressure down onto the section to push it flat. I put pressure on thefoam using spring clamps all along the length. On that tip, there is aslight bend where ( from the impression on the foam) it is apparent thetip wasn't perfectly in the corner of the "V". angle iron on top, it allowed me to shine a light down between the twopieces to visualize the section to ensure straightness and placement,and used a thin, stainless ruler to gently push the section into thecorner along it's length. I then used the spring clamps to applypressure. I also did NOT use the wax paper. This tip is as straight asan arrow.The problem with the first tip, I think, given the resultingimpression in the foam, was that I didn't first crease the wax paper,but (stupidly) simply allowed to find it's own spot in the "V" when thepressure was applied. On the second tip, I didn't use the wax paper andcould visualize the piece along it's entire length. It was alsoapparent that you need to align the top piece of angle iron with the tipof the rod so that there is no space between the ends to achieve equalpressure along the length of the section. Otherwise, if the tip of therod, for example, is several inches down the iron, you get littlepressure on the tip and it wasn't held fully down.It takes only a few seconds to set it in, visualize the placementand ensure the straightness. Just an idea, I welcome comments,dws. from flytyr@southshore.com Tue Jun 20 13:01:39 2000 e5KI1cG10767 Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Tan,I wipe the blank down to remove as much of the glue as I can from theoutside. Ihave had no problems with it sticking to the hardwood. I have done fifteenrodsthis way. I would suggest two boards. One with a shallow groove for tips andonewith a deeper groove for butts. You do want to watch about the tip sectionwhereyou have a build up of binding cord at the tip. This will raise the tip and put abend in it. Hang the end with the binding cord knot past the end of the boardsothat the tip will lay flat in the groove.At the present time I am using my planing form for the tip sections till I getashallow groove board made. I don't take credit for this idea, I got the ideafromthe list.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com iank wrote: Tony , I was considering doing something similar to this but was uncertain whetherthere may be a problem with the glue attaching to the hardwood. What do you do tho prevent this or is it not a problem ? . Ian At 11:18 AM 20/06/00 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I use a 60" length of hardwood with a 60* groove in it. The groove wasmadewith a 60* router bit on a router table. I lay the blank in the groove withthe high side in the "V" and use four shot bags to cover it full length.The shot bags conform to the taper. Sand bags would do just as well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "David W. Smith, Ph.D." wrote: Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought I deleted from dati@selway.umt.edu Tue Jun 20 14:32:15 2000 e5KJWEG14139 13:32:18 -0600 Subject: Thanks for taper help Thanks to all who responded to my taper inquiry. I was given lots of goodadvice and ideas that I hadn't thought of prior. I think I'll just haveto build them all. Thanks again,Darin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from rvenneri@ulster.net Tue Jun 20 14:34:15 2000 e5KJYFG14321 Organization: Venneri's Subject: Re: finishing reel seats James wrote: Just off the top of my head, since I've never made or finished a reelseat, I would think a film finish like spar or poly would be prone toscratching from contact with the reel foot. What you want is apenetrating finish that leaves very little or no film. This is onereason why stabilized inserts are so good. If I was making my own, I'dprobably soak it for several days in a natural oil finish like tung orboiled linseed oil. -----Original Message-----From: Mark and Tracey [SMTP:grandriverangler@sprint.ca]Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 5:48 PM Subject: finishing reel seats Can anyone suggest a finish for reel seats that I am making myself.Should I use the same spar that I use on my rods, or the urethane? Thanks in advance. Mark BabiyThe way I finish my reel seats is to spray them with a acrylic spray, acouple of coats, then when dry I use a buffing wheel to remove all theresidue that has not penatrated the wood. This gives a nice finish thatwhen scratched can be buffed back to new. Best RegardsBob VVenneri's21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882http://www.ulster.net/~rvenneri/index.html from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue Jun 20 14:39:18 2000 e5KJdGG14594 Subject: RE: finishing reel seats I've got one of Bob's seats, and I consider it the exact prototype ofeverything you'd want in a finish for a reel seat. Thanks for sharingthat, Bob. -----Original Message-----From: Robert Venneri [SMTP:rvenneri@ulster.net]Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 1:38 PM Cc: 'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'Subject: Re: finishing reel seats James wrote: Just off the top of my head, since I've never made or finished areelseat, I would think a film finish like spar or poly would be pronetoscratching from contact with the reel foot. What you want is apenetrating finish that leaves very little or no film. This is onereason why stabilized inserts are so good. If I was making my own,I'dprobably soak it for several days in a natural oil finish like tungorboiled linseed oil. -----Original Message-----From: Mark and Tracey [SMTP:grandriverangler@sprint.ca]Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 5:48 PM Subject: finishing reel seats Can anyone suggest a finish for reel seats that I am makingmyself.Should I use the same spar that I use on my rods, or the urethane? Thanks in advance. Mark BabiyThe way I finish my reel seats is to spray them with a acrylic spray,acouple of coats, then when dry I use a buffing wheel to remove all the>residue that has not penatrated the wood. This gives a nice finishthatwhen scratched can be buffed back to new. Best RegardsBob VVenneri's21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882http://www.ulster.net/~rvenneri/index.html from bhoy@inmind.com Tue Jun 20 15:32:08 2000 e5KKW7G16391 Subject: Tips for wetflies/nymphs My next rod will be based on a PHY Perfectionist. I am debating whether to beef up one of the tips to use for nymphs. Studying other maker's dimensions (Like the Para 15 wet/dry tips) I've noticed that the increase in dimension isn't even as you go down the tip. That is, the tip is about 10 percent oversize, the second station about 6 or 7 percent oversize and the rest about two or three percent. Except for the stations right next to the ferrule which go back up to about 8 percent oversize. So here are my questions: Why not just increase by set amount or at each station? I assume there are reasons, which leads to the next question: What are the fundamental criteria to use when resizing a tip for a different weight fly? That is, what am I trying to avoid as well as accomplish with redimensioning a tip? Is it the same as designing for a heavier weight line? Will beefing up the tip screw up the action the rod, especially the parabolic aspects? Should I even bother since parabolics have heavy tips to begin with? If I really hate it, can I strip the section and shave it back to a dry fly weight? I know the real answer is to try it, but I'd like to have a better feel for the territory before I commit. Bill Hoy from dpeaston@wzrd.com Tue Jun 20 16:13:45 2000 e5KLDjG17818 ,"'Rodmakers Listserv'" Subject: RE: balance At 07:25 PM 6/19/2000 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote: Arial0000,0000,ffffPaul,that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please send it to meimmediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will better balanceyour rod. I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. 0000,0000,8080 Arial0000,0000,ffffRichard 0000,0000,8080Tahoma-----Original Message----- From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Goodwin Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 PM Subject: balance ArialThisweekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were fishing and wewere both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt whilemine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish weren't biting(which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His rod felt like itweighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods balanced and mine witha 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while his with an orvis CFO(I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the stripping guide than thegrip. ArialSo my setup which probablyweighs more seemed to be much lighter. I could imagine that a balancedrod would feel lighter but I didn't think the difference could feel sodramatic. ArialPaul 0000,0000,8080 0000,0000,8080 Doug Easton Tonawanda, NY from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jun 20 16:54:59 2000 e5KLswG19223 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 20 Jun 2000 16:40:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Tips for wetflies/nymphs I can only comment that many of PHY's designs have funny "places" in thetapers ! Only he knew why ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tips for wetflies/nymphs My next rod will be based on a PHY Perfectionist. I am debating whether tobeef up one of the tips to use for nymphs. Studying other maker'sdimensions (Like the Para 15 wet/dry tips) I've noticed that the increasein dimension isn't even as you go down the tip. That is, the tip is about10 percent oversize, the second station about 6 or 7 percent oversize andthe rest about two or three percent. Except for the stations right next tothe ferrule which go back up to about 8 percent oversize. So here are my questions: Why not just increase by set amount or at each station? I assume thereare reasons, which leads to the next question: What are the fundamental criteria to use when resizing a tip for adifferent weight fly? That is, what am I trying to avoid as well asaccomplish with redimensioning a tip? Is it the same as designing for aheavier weight line? Will beefing up the tip screw up the action the rod, especially theparabolic aspects? Should I even bother since parabolics have heavy tipstobegin with? If I really hate it, can I strip the section and shave it backto a dry fly weight? I know the real answer is to try it, but I'd like to have a better feelforthe territory before I commit. Bill Hoy from bh887@lafn.org Tue Jun 20 19:16:06 2000 e5L0G5G22229 (envelope- from bh887@lafn.org) "'Paul Goodwin'" ,"'Rodmakers Listserv'" Subject: Re: balance boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFDADB.A76B8E00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFDADB.A76B8E00 Hey! I'll swap you my Martin Automatic. It is heavy enough to take out =the kinks in your back...or put some in if you don't have any. Even up, = Lee Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 10:42 PMSubject: RE: balance How about a South Bend automatic? Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 4:25 PM Subject: RE: balance Paul, that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please =send it to me immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will =better balance your rod. I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 PM Subject: balance This weekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were =fishing and we were both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' =3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish =weren't biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His =rod felt like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods =balanced and mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while =his with an orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the = So my setup which probably weighs more seemed to be much lighter. =I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but I didn't =think the difference could feel so dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFDADB.A76B8E00 take out the kinks in your back...or put some in if you don't have = Lee ----- Original Message ----- Darrell A. Lee Goodwin' ; 'Rodmakers Listserv' Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 = PMSubject: RE: balance about a South Bend automatic? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of Richard NantelSent: Monday, June 19, 2000 = balancePaul, that Bougle is throwing off the = your rod. Please send it to me immediately and I'll send you a = that will better balance your rod. I have an old Martin sitting = somewhere. Richard GoodwinSent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 = Rodmakers ListservSubject:balanceThis weekend another list member= and myself were fishing and we were both using the new rods we've = Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one = the fish weren't biting (which was while the sun was out) we = His rod felt like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the = balanced and mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip = his with an orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to = stripping guide than the grip. So my setup which probably weighs= to be much lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel = but I didn't think the difference could feel so =dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BFDADB.A76B8E00-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Jun 20 19:20:23 2000 e5L0KLG22369 Mail VirusWall NT); Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:17:47 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) flytyr@southshore.com, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Hi Ian,I tried something similar and covered the rod blank with clearplastic. Worked fine. Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections Tony , I was considering doing something similar to this but was uncertain whetherthere may be a problem with the glue attaching to the hardwood. What do you do tho prevent this or is it not a problem ? . Ian At 11:18 AM 20/06/00 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I use a 60" length of hardwood with a 60* groove in it. The groove wasmadewith a 60* router bit on a router table. I lay the blank in the groove withthe high side in the "V" and use four shot bags to cover it full length.The shot bags conform to the taper. Sand bags would do just as well.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "David W. Smith, Ph.D." wrote: Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought I deleted from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Jun 20 19:28:00 2000 e5L0RxG22584 RAA01703; ,"'Rodmakers Listserv'" Subject: Re: balance boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BFDAF5.C2529D20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BFDAF5.C2529D20 Ooops, Excuse me. I thought I was posting an interesting observation to =the Rodmakers list server. It seems that the message got re-routed (some =cisco router skipped a groove) and it got sent to the wanna-be comedians = Normally I'ld point to my fishing hat but since this isn't a video =conference I'll post a scan on my web page. http://www.paul.goodwinweb.com/bm.jpg Paul Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 8:19 PMSubject: Re: balance Hey! I'll swap you my Martin Automatic. It is heavy enough to take =out the kinks in your back...or put some in if you don't have any. Even =up, for darn near anything. What say? Lee Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 10:42 PMSubject: RE: balance How about a South Bend automatic? Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 4:25 PM Subject: RE: balance Paul, that Bougle is throwing off the action of your rod. Please =send it to me immediately and I'll send you a lighter reel that will =better balance your rod. I have an old Martin sitting around somewhere. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 PM Subject: balance This weekend another list member (Dave Price) and myself were =fishing and we were both using the new rods we've built. Daves was a 7' =3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At one point when the fish =weren't biting (which was while the sun was out) we swapped rods. His =rod felt like it weighed about a pound. We looked at where the rods =balanced and mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just ahead of the grip while =his with an orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) balanced closer to the = So my setup which probably weighs more seemed to be much =lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod would feel lighter but I =didn't think the difference could feel so dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BFDAF5.C2529D20 Ooops, Excuse me. I thought I was posting an = observation to the Rodmakers list server. It seems that the message re-routed (some cisco router skipped a groove) and it got sent to the = comedians list server. Normally I'ld point to my fishing hat but since this = video conference I'll post a scan on my web page. http://www.paul.goodwinweb=.com/bm.jpg Paul ----- Original Message ----- Lee =Freeman Goodwin' ; 'Rodmakers Listserv' Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: balance take out the kinks in your back...or put some in if you don't have = Lee ----- Original Message ----- Darrell A. Lee Goodwin' ; 'Rodmakers Listserv' Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 = PMSubject: RE: balance automatic? Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of Richard NantelSent: Monday, June 19, 2000= RE: balancePaul, that Bougle is throwing off the = your rod. Please send it to me immediately and I'll send you a = reel that will better balance your rod. I have an old Martin = around somewhere. Richard GoodwinSent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:13 = Rodmakers ListservSubject: =balanceThis weekend another list = Price) and myself were fishing and we were both using the new = built. Daves was a 7' 3pc 4wt while mine was a 6' 9" 2pc 3wt. At = point when the fish weren't biting (which was while the sun was = swapped rods. His rod felt like it weighed about a pound. We = where the rods balanced and mine with a 3" Bougle balanced just = the grip while his with an orvis CFO (I think it was the 123) = closer to the stripping guide than the grip. So my setup which probably = seemed to be much lighter. I could imagine that a balanced rod = dramatic. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BFDAF5.C2529D20-- from wiroway@home.com Tue Jun 20 20:08:02 2000 e5L182G23318 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP 0700 Subject: Remove boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDAFB.88E022A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDAFB.88E022A0 Please remove me from the list. Thanks Winston Waymer ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDAFB.88E022A0 Please remove me= Thanks Winston Waymer ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BFDAFB.88E022A0-- from wiroway@home.com Tue Jun 20 21:39:19 2000 e5L2dJG24618 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP 0700 Subject: Remove boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0014_01BFDB08.4942D040" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BFDB08.4942D040 Please remove me from your list. Thanks Winston ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BFDB08.4942D040 Please remove me from your list.Thanks = Winston ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BFDB08.4942D040-- from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Jun 20 22:51:07 2000 e5L3p6G25570 UAA27317 Subject: Re: splitting cane for fun and profit? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0041_01BFDB12.235795A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BFDB12.235795A0 I have a bundle of cane sitting at a friends loading dock and to prepare = left over. from what I thought wasn't enough to build a 2/1 rod I got 27 =strips. It was easy to keep the split in the middle of the strip. I was =able to et strips down to .150" easily. This will save a lot of planing. PAul Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 12:54 PMSubject: Re: splitting cane for fun and profit? Paul,Believe me, it gets better with time. The last culm I split =(rough beveled the strips out of it yesterday... well actually well into =the morning this morning), I split the butt end for butt strips and got =24 strips, the upper end of the culm I got 32 strips from. I had one =bad (as far as dimension) strip from the tip bundle and 2 bad strips = from the butt bundle. Thinking back 8 or 10 years... yeah, I threw a = My splitting method is a bit different than most. I start the =splits with a froe, then split the strips out with my hands only after I =get the split started. Works good for me, and I can split strips down =to widths that are so narrow you can't plane them and still keep the =width on them consistent (I think Harry, M-D and Randall Gregory saw me =do that at the Sowbug Roundup), but don't get discouraged. It took the =splitting of a lot of culms to get to that point and after you get a =good number of rods under your belt, you'll be able to split much more = Bob-----Original Message-----From: Paul Goodwin Date: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 11:09 AMSubject: splitting cane for fun and profit? After I finished planing the cane for my first rod I found myself =standing in about another rods (at least) worth of cane shavings. I =managed to split strips that were close to the size I needed for the =butt section but couldn't get strips thin enough for the tips and ended = Is this a common occurance or is it something that improves with = Are there and techniques that work better than others? I just ordered a bundle of cane and would like not to generate a =mountain of shavings. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BFDB12.235795A0 I have a bundle of cane sitting at a friends loading = to prepare for splitting it I thought I'ld try Bob's method on part of a = had left over. from what I thought wasn't enough to build a 2/1 rod I = strips. It was easy to keep the split in the middle of the strip. I was = et strips down to .150" easily. This will save a lot of =planing. PAul ----- Original Message ----- Bob =Nunley Goodwin ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: splitting cane for = profit? Paul, it = yesterday... well actually well into the morning this morning), I = butt end for butt strips and got 24 strips, the upper end of the culm = = plane them and still keep the width on them consistent (I think Harry, = point and after you get a good number of rods under your belt, you'll = Bob -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Tuesday, June 06, 2000 11:09 AMSubject: splitting = fun and profit? After I finished planing the cane = rod I found myself standing in about another rods (at least) worth = shavings. I managed to split strips that were close to the size I = the butt section but couldn't get strips thin enough for the tips = up with a lot of scrap. Is this a common occurance or is it = that improves with time? Are there and techniques that work= others? I just ordered a bundle of cane and = not to generate a mountain of shavings. Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BFDB12.235795A0-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Jun 21 00:48:42 2000 e5L5mbG27516 22:54:50 PDT Subject: Re: Remove Hi Winston, Here are the directions for signing off. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu To signoff from the list, email to listproc@wugate.wustl.edu with thefollowing request: signoff RODMAKERS or unsubscribe RODMAKERS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Subject: Remove Please remove me from your list. Thanks Winston from petermckean@netspace.net.au Wed Jun 21 05:13:30 2000 e5LADDG00317 Subject: Bob Milardo Organization: vet boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFDBBC.561DEE80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFDBBC.561DEE80 BobMy system here is not all it should be. I lose things. You're not =supposed to be able to do that with a computer, are you?Was it you who said a couple of months ago that you were coming to =Australia?If so, the answer to your question is that I live in Tasmania - (where =all the good fishing is to be found!) and if you are in this neck* of =the woods, I should be glad to see you.No fishing at the moment, though, as the season is closed. You can still =drink beer though.Peter*Down here in Oz, they actually tend to use another anatomical term to =describe us. Quite unfairly! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFDBBC.561DEE80 BobMy system here is not all it should be. = you?Was it you who said a couple of months= were coming to Australia?If so, the answer to your question is = in Tasmania - (where all the good fishing is to be found!) and if you = this neck* of the woods, I should be glad to see you.No fishing at the moment, though, as = closed. You can still drink beer though.Peter*Down here in Oz, they actually tend to= anatomical term to describe us. Quite =unfairly! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFDBBC.561DEE80-- from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Jun 21 07:18:02 2000 e5LCI1G01922 Subject: NS FYI,I just received an order of Nickle Silver from Busby Metals.http://www.busbymetals.com/rod.htmThey sell larger sizes (7/8" dia.) by the foot. Two feet delivered wasabout $60. I know this isn't cheap but it's the best price I've found on apurchase of less than 12'. They were also very pleasent and prompt.Best regards,Gary H. from Davidhray1@aol.com Wed Jun 21 10:30:40 2000 e5LFUdG07073 Subject: Other Cane I have often wondered and have often heard others ask about using different kinds of cane. While I was in Mississippi I found some large local cane. It was the same size as the tonkin cane that I buy but the nodes were not as long. I was by a local expert rod builder that it might work OK in a small taper. I decided to build two rods out of the cane one a Sir D converted to a 2 wt and Bob Nunley's 6' 9" two weight. I cast the rod Bob made in the Arkansas meeting last year and I build a similar Sir D in tonkin cane. I must say that the Mississippi cane although as large as thick as tonkin does not have the power fibers to make a good rod. The Sir D in Tonkin is a strong powerful 2 wt but the Mississippi cane rod is a wimpy one weight. The same is true for Bob's taper. When I cast his rod it has a back bone with a 2 weight but in Mississippi cane it has little power with a 1 wt line. Both of my rods are fishable but only at short distances. I cannot speak for other cane but I decided that if I am going to spend the time to build a rod and get one that I can trust I will use tonkin cane. David H. Ray from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Jun 21 10:41:57 2000 e5LFfuG07536 Subject: Apology to Mr.Gillespie To Mr. Peter Gillespie,This morning I sent a message that I thought might be of interest tosomeon the list about where I found and purchased Nickle Silver. Apparently Ioffended your sensiblities. I would now like to apologize to you for mytransgression and vow to never again send "COMMERCIAL e- mails". Even if Ihave no commerical connection to the company what-so-ever or if it may beof interest to someone other than yourself.Just Damn, Gary H. At 09:29 AM 6/21/00 -0400, peter gillespie wrote:hi gary, By sending me email again you agree to my terms for unsolicited commercial email reception and storage listed below: download fee...................... $10 U.S. per message.storage fee ...................... $5 U.S. / day (or portion thereof) per messageopen message fee.............. $20 U.S. /openingdelete message fee........... $10 U.S. /messageattachment fee..................$50 U.S. each (for obvious reasons unsolicited attachments must be immediately deleted (trashed) so there is no separate fee for deleting these and under no circumstances will they be opened) your messages will be filtered into a separate mail box for storage upon arrival. to delete previous messages include "please delete previous stored messages" in the subject line of your email (No charge for these.) you will be billed monthly at this email address and instructed on payment at that time. thank you for your business, peter gillespie p.s. these terms will apply to all email from or about busbymetals.com so you might want to inform them. from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Jun 21 10:50:52 2000 e5LFopG07857 Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Don't apologize, Gary. The information you posted was of interest here,and was typical of other posts I've seen on the list. In addition, afterreading several discussions regarding sources of NS tubing, there can beno doubt that your post was appropriate. Perhaps Mr. Gillespie shouldremove himself from the list if he is unwilling to receive email. I'dhate to see him start sending bills to the list server or coordinator. -----Original Message-----From: Heidt [SMTP:destinycon@mindspring.com]Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 9:53 AM Subject: Apology to Mr.Gillespie To Mr. Peter Gillespie,This morning I sent a message that I thought might be ofinterest to someon the list about where I found and purchased Nickle Silver.Apparently Ioffended your sensiblities. I would now like to apologize to you formytransgression and vow to never again send "COMMERCIAL e-mails". Evenif Ihave no commerical connection to the company what-so-ever or if it maybeof interest to someone other than yourself.Just Damn, Gary H. At 09:29 AM 6/21/00 -0400, peter gillespie wrote:hi gary, By sending me email again you agree to my terms for unsolicited commercial email reception and storage listed below: download fee...................... $10 U.S. per message.storage fee ...................... $5 U.S. / day (or portion thereof) per messageopen message fee.............. $20 U.S. /openingdelete message fee........... $10 U.S. /messageattachment fee..................$50 U.S. each (for obvious reasons unsolicited attachments must be immediately deleted (trashed) so there is no separate fee for deleting these and under no circumstances will they be opened) your messages will be filtered into a separate mail box for storage upon arrival. to delete previous messages include "please delete previous stored messages" in the subject line of your email (No charge for these.) you will be billed monthly at this email address and instructed on payment at that time. thank you for your business, peter gillespie p.s. these terms will apply to all email from or about busbymetals.com so you might want to inform them. from Canerods@aol.com Wed Jun 21 11:27:11 2000 e5LGRBG08995 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie I saved the information away and was glad to have it. Oh, you can send me money too. Don Burns from rmoon@ida.net Wed Jun 21 11:39:42 2000 e5LGdfG09616 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie boundary="------------0D7DE5CB70A69B348419C15D" --------------0D7DE5CB70A69B348419C15D GaryForget the apology. Jerry Foster has addressed this issue before andmessages such as yours are not commercial messages. They are valid andappreciated. Gillespie has an index finger to delete messages and if heshould ever attept to carry out his threat I can only pity the poor guy. --------------0D7DE5CB70A69B348419C15D Gary They messages and if he should ever attept to carry out his threat I can onlypity the poor guy. --------------0D7DE5CB70A69B348419C15D-- from if6were9@bellsouth.net Wed Jun 21 12:25:25 2000 e5LHPOG10801 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie GaryThanks for the info, we can never have too many sources of supply for thematerial weneed, especially if that source is willing to cater to the small quantity buyer. As whathis response was rooted in. Thanks again for the info. Pat from yves@hwy97.net Wed Jun 21 12:25:42 2000 e5LHPgG10875 (Rockliffe SMTPRA 4.2.0) with SMTP id ;Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:25:53 -0700 Subject: Re: a new technique for gluing STRAIGHT sections DWS: This sounds like a great idea - I plan to try it on the next rod.Presumably aluminum angle would work as well? Thanks, Dave (Ph.D.) At 09:39 AM 6/20/00 -0400, David W. Smith, Ph.D. wrote:Gang,With the caveat that I am new to bamboo rod building, I thought Iwould throw out (up) the technique I used to glue up a very straight(with one exception, see below) first rod. (I used Gorilla PU glue.) Isimply took a piece of straight 1" angle iron and set the freshly glued,bound section in the "V," sandwiched between two pieces of wax paper.I was careful to get the twists out first. For the butt and one tip, Iused a 1"x1"x48" piece of hard-core foam insulation to put a bit ofpressure down onto the section to push it flat. I put pressure on thefoam using spring clamps all along the length. On that tip, there is aslight bend where ( from the impression on the foam) it is apparent thetip wasn't perfectly in the corner of the "V". angle iron on top, it allowed me to shine a light down between the twopieces to visualize the section to ensure straightness and placement,and used a thin, stainless ruler to gently push the section into thecorner along it's length. I then used the spring clamps to applypressure. I also did NOT use the wax paper. This tip is as straight asan arrow.The problem with the first tip, I think, given the resultingimpression in the foam, was that I didn't first crease the wax paper,but (stupidly) simply allowed to find it's own spot in the "V" when thepressure was applied. On the second tip, I didn't use the wax paper andcould visualize the piece along it's entire length. It was alsoapparent that you need to align the top piece of angle iron with the tipof the rod so that there is no space between the ends to achieve equalpressure along the length of the section. Otherwise, if the tip of therod, for example, is several inches down the iron, you get littlepressure on the tip and it wasn't held fully down.It takes only a few seconds to set it in, visualize the placementand ensure the straightness. Just an idea, I welcome comments,dws. from guille32@tutopia.com Wed Jun 21 12:40:51 2000 e5LHeoG11357 c1mailgw2.prontomail.com (NPlex 4.5.049) 2000 10:40:58 -0700 10:40:32 -0700 Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:40:48 +0000 Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Perhaps Mr. Gillespie should read this again : COMMERCIALISM It is strongly encouraged that listmembers openly discuss suppliers of products, and their experiences with dealing with these suppliers. If you know where a particular product can be obtain, or the suitability of a particular product to rodmaking, again you are encourage to share your insights with the list. This should be considered one of the majorbenefits of this list. Thanks Gary from tklein@amgen.com Wed Jun 21 12:52:28 2000 e5LHqRG11640 smtp.amgen.com via smap (V4.2) Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie e5LHqSG11641 It might be best to lay off Mr. Gillespie for a while and give him a chanceto reply. Many people I know set their e-mail programs to automatically reply tomessages that have spamlike characteristics. It's certainly possible thatthis was simply an automated reply and that no harm was intended.--- Tim ----------From: Guillermo Magarios[SMTP:guille32@tutopia.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 11:45 AM Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Perhaps Mr. Gillespie should read this again : COMMERCIALISM It is strongly encouraged that listmembers openly discuss suppliers of products, and their experiences with dealing with these suppliers. If you know where a particular product can be obtain, or the suitability of a particular product to rodmaking, again you are encourage to share your insights with the list. This should be considered one of the majorbenefits of this list. Thanks Gary from Grhghlndr@aol.com Wed Jun 21 13:13:56 2000 e5LIDuG12211 Subject: Mr.Gillespie cry us a frickin river I for one was glad to see this post. If Dizzy Gillespie doesn't like a post do as I do HIT DELETE otherwise he can cry us a frickin river. There was nothing wrong with your post.BRET from mrmac@tcimet.net Wed Jun 21 16:06:38 2000 e5LL6bG17133 OAA05337 Subject: Hallelujah, I'm a bum! Finagled my way loose - headed for Grayrock tomorrow morningearly, if but only for a day and a half. I guess I'm not quite yet afull time Trout Bum like those other ne'er-do-wells ;-) ............butI'm workin' on it hard as I can! YEA! Really looking forward to putting faces with names. regards to all - I'm headed NORTH! mac from caneman@clnk.com Wed Jun 21 16:13:46 2000 e5LLDkG17404 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:09:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie I thought it was funny! Then again, that may just be that sick rednecksense of humor! *S*Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie It might be best to lay off Mr. Gillespie for a while and give him a chanceto reply. Many people I know set their e-mail programs to automatically reply tomessages that have spamlike characteristics. It's certainly possible thatthis was simply an automated reply and that no harm was intended.--- Tim ----------From: Guillermo Magarios[SMTP:guille32@tutopia.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 11:45 AM Subject: RE: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Perhaps Mr. Gillespie should read this again : COMMERCIALISM It is strongly encouraged that listmembers openly discuss suppliers ofproducts, and their experiences with dealing with these suppliers. Ifyou know where a particular product can be obtain, or the suitabilityof a particular product to rodmaking, again you are encourage to shareyour insights with the list. This should be considered one of the majorbenefits of this list. Thanks Gary from caneman@clnk.com Wed Jun 21 16:24:08 2000 e5LLO7G17768 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:19:22 -0500 Subject: quad rod type="multipart/alternative";boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_02ED_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02ED_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560 boundary="----=_NextPart_001_02EE_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560" ------=_NextPart_001_02EE_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560 To all who helped me figure out this quad rod I have, a BIG thanks! I =was relatively sure it was an Edwards by what most of you said, but =found out this morning for sure. I put a coat of (secret formula LOL) =on it and there was a faint "lightness" on the rod. Guess what? It was =the outline of lettering... Edwards Quadrate on one flat (terrible =handwriting) and "#" something, can't read the first number, last is =zero, on the opposite flat. I have the rod ready to go back together, = Also, thanks to all those who helped me out with advice on the =ferrules. I have a new found respect for the few of you that make quad =rods and square the barrells of the ferrules. After hours of annealing, =hammering and polishing, I don't ever want to do another one. I'll =stick with my "six sticks" and leave the quads to those with more =patience! Later,Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm ------=_NextPart_001_02EE_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560 To all who helped me figure out this quad rod I have, a BIG = was relatively sure it was an Edwards by what most of you said, but = handwriting) and "#" something, can't read the first number, = annealing, hammering and polishing, I don't ever want to do another = I'll stick with my "six sticks" and leave the quads to those = patience! Later,Bob = Rodsht=tp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm= ------=_NextPart_001_02EE_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560-- ------=_NextPart_000_02ED_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560 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------=_NextPart_000_02ED_01BFDB9C.FAD1D560-- from caneman@clnk.com Wed Jun 21 16:25:41 2000 e5LLPeG17886 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:20:59 -0500 Subject: quad rod boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0303_01BFDB9D.3783DBC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0303_01BFDB9D.3783DBC0 Sorry, sent the below message with my stationary and signature attached. =I know some of you can't receive the msg with that stationary on it, so =here is the resend. To all who helped me figure out this quad rod I have, a BIG thanks! I =was relatively sure it was an Edwards by what most of you said, but =found out this morning for sure. I put a coat of (secret formula LOL) =on it and there was a faint "lightness" on the rod. Guess what? It was =the outline of lettering... Edwards Quadrate on one flat (terrible =handwriting) and "#" something, can't read the first number, last is =zero, on the opposite flat. I have the rod ready to go back together, = Also, thanks to all those who helped me out with advice on the =ferrules. I have a new found respect for the few of you that make quad =rods and square the barrells of the ferrules. After hours of annealing, =hammering and polishing, I don't ever want to do another one. I'll =stick with my "six sticks" and leave the quads to those with more =patience! Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0303_01BFDB9D.3783DBC0 Sorry, sent the below message with my stationaryand = it, so here is the resend. To all who helped me figure out this quad rod I have, a BIG = was relatively sure it was an Edwards by what most of you said, but = handwriting) and "#" something, can't read the first number, = annealing, hammering and polishing, I don't ever want to do another = I'll stick with my "six sticks" and leave the quads to those = patience! Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0303_01BFDB9D.3783DBC0-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Jun 21 16:41:48 2000 e5LLflG18532 Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:41:45 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Hallelujah, I'm a bum! Mac,All of us who cannot make the trip are genuinely envious. Please tellall the "bums" up there the rest of us, who have to work for a living, said,"Hello"! Harry Ralph MacKenzie wrote: Finagled my way loose - headed for Grayrock tomorrow morningearly, if but only for a day and a half. I guess I'm not quite yet afull time Trout Bum like those other ne'er-do-wells ;-) ............butI'm workin' on it hard as I can! YEA! Really looking forward to putting faces with names. regards to all - I'm headed NORTH! mac --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from mep@mint.net Wed Jun 21 17:55:37 2000 e5LMtbG19991 Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:55:38 -0400 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie I appreciated your post. That's what this is all about, what to use , where togetit, how to use it. Give me a break!!!!! Mike Heidt wrote: To Mr. Peter Gillespie,This morning I sent a message that I thought might be of interest tosomeon the list about where I found and purchased Nickle Silver. Apparently Ioffended your sensiblities. I would now like to apologize to you for mytransgression and vow to never again send "COMMERCIAL e- mails". Even if Ihave no commerical connection to the company what-so-ever or if it maybeof interest to someone other than yourself.Just Damn,Gary H. At 09:29 AM 6/21/00 -0400, peter gillespie wrote:hi gary, By sending me email again you agree to my terms forunsolicited commercial email reception and storage listed below: download fee...................... $10 U.S. per message.storage fee ...................... $5 U.S. / day (or portion thereof)per messageopen message fee.............. $20 U.S. /openingdelete message fee........... $10 U.S. /messageattachment fee..................$50 U.S. each (for obvious reasonsunsolicited attachments must be immediately deleted (trashed) sothere is no separate fee for deleting these and under nocircumstances will they be opened) your messages will be filtered into a separate mail box for storageupon arrival. to delete previous messages include "please deleteprevious stored messages" in the subject line of your email (Nocharge for these.) you will be billed monthly at this email addressand instructed on payment at that time. thank you for your business, peter gillespie p.s. these terms will apply to all email from or aboutbusbymetals.com so you might want to inform them. from channer1@rmi.net Wed Jun 21 18:11:30 2000 e5LNBUG20473 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Gary;Don't waste your time on this guy. Where is that girl from " down under"when we really need her?John from rmoon@ida.net Wed Jun 21 18:31:22 2000 e5LNVLG20889 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie oh Yeah--- Her? from edriddle@mindspring.com Wed Jun 21 19:31:04 2000 e5M0V3G22126 Subject: Fw: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Gary:I'm in your court, disregard that crap.Ed from channer1@rmi.net Wed Jun 21 21:22:05 2000 e5M2M4G23342 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Ralph W Moon wrote: oh Yeah--- Her?She'ld know how to respond to a message like that, would't she Ralph.John from lars32@gateway.net Wed Jun 21 21:33:42 2000 (may be forged)) e5M2XfG23571 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Who is this guy anyway?Dave N.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Ralph W Moon wrote: oh Yeah--- Her?She'ld know how to respond to a message like that, would't she Ralph.John from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Jun 21 21:58:14 2000 e5M2wDG23997 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Wed, 21 Jun 2000 21:59:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Somehow I seem to have been left out of the loop on this guy's complaint, asI never saw it. It strikes me that this is far from the first time, one ofus has let the list know of an item(s) that were available ! I wonder whatpulled the chain on the N.S. ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Who is this guy anyway?Dave N.-----Original Message-----From: channer Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 9:23 PMSubject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Ralph W Moon wrote: oh Yeah--- Her?She'ld know how to respond to a message like that, would't she Ralph.John from caneman@clnk.com Wed Jun 21 22:20:39 2000 e5M3KcG24326 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Wed, 21 Jun 2000 22:15:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie I guess we should just take things like that with a grain of salt... Itwas kinda funny, even if the guy meant it to be totally sarcastic, to me hecame off short of that, and just hung around the funny stage. Hmmmm...wonder how long it took him to concoct that price list of his. I'm sure itwas at least as long as it takes to delete 50 or 60 messages that you aren'tinterested in. To me it sounded more like his problem was more with BusbyMetals than it was with the post. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Somehow I seem to have been left out of the loop on this guy's complaint,asI never saw it. It strikes me that this is far from the first time, one ofus has let the list know of an item(s) that were available ! I wonder whatpulled the chain on the N.S. ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "lars32" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 9:44 PMSubject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Who is this guy anyway?Dave N.-----Original Message-----From: channer Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 9:23 PMSubject: Re: Apology to Mr.Gillespie Ralph W Moon wrote: oh Yeah--- Her?She'ld know how to respond to a message like that, would't she Ralph.John from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Thu Jun 22 05:38:25 2000 e5MAcOG28462 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: Mad River/Ohio Hello All, Anyone in the Dayton, Cincinnati, Hamilton area have any info on the MadRiver in Ohio? I am going to be in the area for a family reunion andplan to spend Monday there limbering some cane. Any good spots to putin. Please pardon the non building post. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from cotner@novagate.com Thu Jun 22 08:11:40 2000 e5MDBdG00322 Subject: Re: Mad River/Ohio Steve - I grew up in Springfield (Ohio) which is right on Mad River, and about30 miles east of Dayton and 75 miles north of Cin-City. I've neverfished it for trout but understand it holds some. Ohio Edison has(had?) a dam on the river in Springfield. Above Springfield to Urbana,Mad River runs 15-30' wide. Between Urbana and West Liberty (both northof Springfield on Route 68), I believe it's much narrower. I believethe trout would be in the upper reaches above Urbana. Local knowledgemay help focus further. Good luck! I'd appreciate a report as my mother still lives there and good fishingwould be a good excuse to go visit more often.Regards,Roger CotnerGrand Haven, Michigan Steve Trauthwein wrote: Hello All, Anyone in the Dayton, Cincinnati, Hamilton area have any info on the MadRiver in Ohio? I am going to be in the area for a family reunion andplan to spend Monday there limbering some cane. Any good spots to putin. Please pardon the non building post. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu Jun 22 09:16:01 2000 e5MEG0G02541 Subject: Re: Mad River/Ohio Contact Mad River Outfitters. They are an Orvis dealer and really good guys. They have all the skinny on the Mad.Bret from steve@hamiltonrods.com Thu Jun 22 13:39:13 2000 e5MIdCG10414 codemarine.209.170.128.193 with SMTP (Microsoft Exchange Internet MailService Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: How flamed is flamed? e5MIdDG10415 The last three rods I've built have been flamed. The first one was built usinga half-culm (split longways) that I decided to "tiger" flame by burningconcentric lines about two inches in width and two inches apart along theculm. Do any of you do the same thing and like the look? The second two were built from the same culm, which I flamed evenly--or atleast that was the intent. Those two rods came out a nice dark brown--darker in some places than in others. Darker at the nodes because I flamedthe culm after filing the nodes. Knowing that, next time I would flame morelightly over the nodes than the rest of the culm. I really like the look of the brown rods--but I actually thought they'd come outdarker (almost black) because the enamel was evenly black. Do any of youflame such that the rods actually turn out an even ebony in color? Does thisapproach risk damage to the power fibers? --Steve from caneman@clnk.com Thu Jun 22 13:47:01 2000 e5MIl0G10735 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:42:20 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: How flamed is flamed? Steve,IMHO, flaming to an ebony color is borderline damaging the cane. I do amottled flame where I "burn" a spiral down the length of a 10 foot culm theburn being about 1" wide with 1" spacing. This leaves the flamed areafairly dark, and the untorched area a "middle of the road" tone, betweenblonde and brown.My suggestion, if you want a dark rod that is uniformly colored, tryammonia fume toning. Nasty process and needs to be done outdoors. I don'tknow how dark you could actually get a blank, but I have put out some verydark brown pieces doing this. Longer may get it darker, but I just take itout when it has acheived the tone I want. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: How flamed is flamed? The last three rods I've built have been flamed. The first one was builtusing a half-culm (split longways) that I decided to "tiger" flame byburning concentric lines about two inches in width and two inches apartalong the culm. Do any of you do the same thing and like the look? The second two were built from the same culm, which I flamed evenly--or atleast that was the intent. Those two rods came out a nice dark brown--darkerin some places than in others. Darker at the nodes because I flamed the culmafter filing the nodes. Knowing that, next time I would flame more lightlyover the nodes than the rest of the culm. I really like the look of the brown rods--but I actually thought they'dcome out darker (almost black) because the enamel was evenly black. Do anyof you flame such that the rods actually turn out an even ebony in color?Does this approach risk damage to the power fibers? --Steve from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Jun 22 15:33:26 2000 e5MKXOG14350 Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:33:17 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: How flamed is flamed? Bob Nunley wrote: Steve,IMHO, flaming to an ebony color is borderline damaging the cane. Steve Z. wrote: Does this approach risk damage to the power fibers? Steve,I've seen Wayne Cattanach give demonstrations on flaming twice now. He's atGrayrock, I'm sure, so I'll try to share what I learned from him. Wayne sayswhat you want to do is keep the flame moving at a consistent speed andconsistent distance from the culm. When you see the outer layer of enamel"explode" into little bubbles, you're getting it just right. According toWayne, with practice you can flame the enamel to an almost shiny silverishlooking black without damaging the power fibers, assuming your torch is hotenough to do so rather quickly. A very quick application of high heat will notdamage, while a longer application of a cooler flame will. This is another oneof those aspects of rodmaking that is hard to explain in words, but easy toshow. I think I remember someone saying that Wayne's video has a goodsectionon flaming. I've tried several different degrees of flaming, and have settled on what Icall a "medium-flamed" look as my favorite. My goal is to get a fairlyconsistent darkening of the pwer fibers without producing a truly mottledlook.I just finished a darkly flamed, Cattanach / PH Young looking rod, and while itis striking, it's not my favorite. Harry Boyd from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Thu Jun 22 15:55:48 2000 e5MKtlG15275 0400 Subject: RE: How flamed is flamed? The video does have a good piece on it. His son is out there flaming aculm on the barbie!. Actually, he uses a torch and the culm is restingon the barbecue. It looks just as described below. The trick isexactly as stated below....hot flame, consistent motion and distance.I would also make sure you know where any major defects are in thecane before flaming so you can avoid those strips when you split themout. It's hard to see once blackened. I split mine in halves so Ididn't have to worry about turning the cane. It got that shiny blackand the rod is fine. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: How flamed is flamed? Bob Nunley wrote: Steve,IMHO, flaming to an ebony color is borderline damaging the cane. Steve Z. wrote: Does this approach risk damage to the power fibers? Steve,I've seen Wayne Cattanach give demonstrations on flaming twicenow. He's atGrayrock, I'm sure, so I'll try to share what I learned from him.Wayne sayswhat you want to do is keep the flame moving at a consistent speed andconsistent distance from the culm. When you see the outer layer ofenamel"explode" into little bubbles, you're getting it just right.According toWayne, with practice you can flame the enamel to an almost shinysilverishlooking black without damaging the power fibers, assuming your torchis hotenough to do so rather quickly. A very quick application of high heatwill notdamage, while a longer application of a cooler flame will. This isanother oneof those aspects of rodmaking that is hard to explain in words, buteasy toshow. I think I remember someone saying that Wayne's video has a goodsectionon flaming. I've tried several different degrees of flaming, and have settledon what Icall a "medium-flamed" look as my favorite. My goal is to get afairlyconsistent darkening of the pwer fibers without producing a trulymottled look.I just finished a darkly flamed, Cattanach / PH Young looking rod, andwhile itis striking, it's not my favorite. Harry Boyd from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Jun 22 16:47:18 2000 e5MLlIG16885 14:54:02 PDT Subject: RE: How flamed is flamed? Andrew, That's a good point you made about marking cosmetic flaws before flaming. I use a black marker and make little "X's" on the very end grain of the culm wherever there is a flawed area I want to avoid. If it's a three piece and I can place the flaw such that it is under the handle, I'll mark the same place with a little "B", so when I split it out further I know to use this in making the butt section rather then the mid. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from caneman@clnk.com Thu Jun 22 17:05:13 2000 e5MM5CG17358 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:00:29 -0500 Subject: Re: How flamed is flamed? Well, Apparently flaming this dark doesn't hurt the cane. I humbly standcorrected and will have to try this someday.-----Original Message----- Subject: RE: How flamed is flamed? The video does have a good piece on it. His son is out there flaming aculm on the barbie!. Actually, he uses a torch and the culm is restingon the barbecue. It looks just as described below. The trick isexactly as stated below....hot flame, consistent motion and distance.I would also make sure you know where any major defects are in thecane before flaming so you can avoid those strips when you split themout. It's hard to see once blackened. I split mine in halves so Ididn't have to worry about turning the cane. It got that shiny blackand the rod is fine. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 4:29 PM Cc: steve@hamiltonrods.com; Rod Makers List ServeSubject: Re: How flamed is flamed? Bob Nunley wrote: Steve,IMHO, flaming to an ebony color is borderline damaging the cane. Steve Z. wrote: Does this approach risk damage to the power fibers? Steve,I've seen Wayne Cattanach give demonstrations on flaming twicenow. He's atGrayrock, I'm sure, so I'll try to share what I learned from him.Wayne sayswhat you want to do is keep the flame moving at a consistent speed andconsistent distance from the culm. When you see the outer layer ofenamel"explode" into little bubbles, you're getting it just right.According toWayne, with practice you can flame the enamel to an almost shinysilverishlooking black without damaging the power fibers, assuming your torchis hotenough to do so rather quickly. A very quick application of high heatwill notdamage, while a longer application of a cooler flame will. This isanother oneof those aspects of rodmaking that is hard to explain in words, buteasy toshow. I think I remember someone saying that Wayne's video has a goodsectionon flaming. I've tried several different degrees of flaming, and have settledon what Icall a "medium-flamed" look as my favorite. My goal is to get afairlyconsistent darkening of the pwer fibers without producing a trulymottled look.I just finished a darkly flamed, Cattanach / PH Young looking rod, andwhile itis striking, it's not my favorite. Harry Boyd from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Thu Jun 22 18:33:12 2000 e5MNXCG18958 Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Other Cane Importance: Normal You know, whenever someone on this list brings up the possibility ofbuilding rods with some other type of bamboo than Tonkin cane, someoneusually pipes in and says "why bother, when good Tonkin culms are cheap andavailable." Truth is, though, that among the hundreds of species, there may somespecies that are superior to Tonkin cane for rod building. I recently sawan add for cane rods by Waterside Innovations in a British fly fishingmagazine that read as follows: PowerFibre Rods: Tell us what you want and we'll build you a unique rod from PowerFibre cane. Lighter and Stronger than traditional bamboo. Perhaps this rodmaker HAS found a better bamboo. Following is a URL that describes a few very promising candidates: http://virtual.nrg.com.au/bamboo/pages/SpeciesRef.html Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Davidhray1@aol.comSent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 11:30 AM Subject: Other Cane I have often wondered and have often heard others ask aboutusing differentkinds of cane. While I was in Mississippi I found some largelocal cane. Itwas the same size as the tonkin cane that I buy but the nodeswere not aslong. I was by a local expert rod builder that it might workOK in a smalltaper. I decided to build two rods out of the cane one a SirD converted to a2 wt and Bob Nunley's 6' 9" two weight. I cast the rod Bobmade in theArkansas meeting last year and I build a similar Sir D intonkin cane. I mustsay that the Mississippi cane although as large as thick astonkin does nothave the power fibers to make a good rod. The Sir D in Tonkinis a strongpowerful 2 wt but the Mississippi cane rod is a wimpy oneweight. The sameis true for Bob's taper. When I cast his rod it has a backbone with a 2weight but in Mississippi cane it has little power with a 1wt line. Both ofmy rods are fishable but only at short distances. I cannotspeak for othercane but I decided that if I am going to spend the time tobuild a rod andget one that I can trust I will use tonkin cane. David H. Ray from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Jun 22 19:08:16 2000 e5N08EG19471 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Thu, 22 Jun 2000 19:09:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Other Cane I'll be most interested to hear if Tony Young has seen, or tried any ofthese !??? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Other Cane You know, whenever someone on this list brings up the possibility ofbuilding rods with some other type of bamboo than Tonkin cane, someoneusually pipes in and says "why bother, when good Tonkin culms are cheapandavailable."> Truth is, though, that among the hundreds of species, theremay somespecies that are superior to Tonkin cane for rod building. I recently sawan add for cane rods by Waterside Innovations in a British fly fishingmagazine that read as follows: PowerFibre Rods: Tell us what you want and we'll build you a unique rod from PowerFibre cane. Lighter and Stronger than traditional bamboo. Perhaps this rodmaker HAS found a better bamboo. Following is a URL that describes a few very promising candidates: http://virtual.nrg.com.au/bamboo/pages/SpeciesRef.html Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Davidhray1@aol.comSent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 11:30 AM Subject: Other Cane I have often wondered and have often heard others ask aboutusing differentkinds of cane. While I was in Mississippi I found some largelocal cane. Itwas the same size as the tonkin cane that I buy but the nodeswere not aslong. I was by a local expert rod builder that it might workOK in a smalltaper. I decided to build two rods out of the cane one a SirD converted to a2 wt and Bob Nunley's 6' 9" two weight. I cast the rod Bobmade in theArkansas meeting last year and I build a similar Sir D intonkin cane. I mustsay that the Mississippi cane although as large as thick astonkin does nothave the power fiber