09:33:50 PDT Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed bob, your method is flawless. you are a good man. timothy --- Bob Nunley wrote:Joe,First, call the guy, talk to him, make sure heunderstands the rod iscomplete and that he needs to pick it upimmediately.Second, If you don't get a positive response from him within areasonable amount of time, notify him "in writing"that payment on thecompleted rod is past due, and that he has 30 daysto pick up the rod or therod and the deposit will be forfiet. Be sure tosend the letter, CertifiedMail, Return Reciept Required, that way, if hechooses to attempt to takeany legal action, you have proof that you sent thenotification and the hewas properly apprised of the situation.One thing you need to be sure of, is that he wascompletely clear aboutthe deposit being a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit. I writethat on the bottom ofmy order forms in large enough print that they cansee it plainly.... rightabove where their signature goes. I'd have to digout one of my forms, butI think it says something to the effect that if therod isn't paid for infull, and received by the buyer within 60 days ofcompletion, the rod, andall deposits made on the rod, are forfieted by thebuyer.Good luck, and hang in there for awhile... maybethis guy just had aproblem of some sort that was beyond his control. Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Eastkoyfly@aol.com Date: Friday, July 14, 2000 10:45 AMSubject: Getting Stiffed Hello AllIt seems that a client of mine isstiffing me on a rod. The rodhas been done for two weeks, I have talked to himand made plans to meethimto pick up the rod but he did not show and has notcalled. I did get myusualdeposit on the rod. My ? is 1. Should I sell therod and keep the deposit.2.sell the rod and give the deposit back. 3 . Waitand see what happens. Theproblem with #3 is that I use rodmaking as a goodpart of my income and Ineed the money. Any advice would be great!T.I.AJoe ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Fri Jul 14 11:40:40 2000 e6EGedG24666 Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed In a message dated 7/14/00 8:50:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Eastkoyfly@aol.com writes: Joe, Did the fellow know about when the rod would be finished? How much warning did he have to get the money together? Could he be on vacation? It is that time of the year. I'd send him a final registered letter (with a followup email?) telling him that the rod is finished and if he doesn't respond by such-and-such date that you will sell it to the next person on your backlog list. But that you will hold his money as a deposit on a future rod. That can't sell the rod within 90 days and/or he doesn't respond that he is still interested in purchasing a rod from you with delivery within 180 days of such-in-such then he will forfeit his deposit. Then pray that he doesn't sue you for return of his deposit! Since you are running rodmaking as a business, then you need clearly to spell out exactly what happens to a deposit in these cases before/or when youtake and order. In fact, terms and conditions of sale should be included with all purchase orders written. You should keep a good set of all your business records, both for tax purposes and for legal reasons. Any profit you make can easily be eaten up in one lawsuit. Sign of the times, my friend! All IMHO, Don Burns from djk762@hotmail.com Fri Jul 14 12:03:24 2000 e6EH3NG25477 Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:03:19 PDT Subject: Witness Marks Rodmakers- I would appreciate any advice on applying witness marks to ferrules;or any strong opinions pro or con on their use. Thanks! David KashubaFair Oaks CA.________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from hartzell@easystreet.com Fri Jul 14 12:50:51 2000 e6EHonG27197 KAA11121; Subject: Re: Witness Marks Dave. Take a small nail or brad slightly smaller in diameter than the markyou want and dip it in enamel. apply to ferrule and wait. If the ferrule ismetal use a mechanical marking punch and set it very light.Ed Hartzell David Kashuba wrote: Rodmakers- I would appreciate any advice on applying witness marks to ferrules;or any strong opinions pro or con on their use. Thanks! David KashubaFair Oaks CA. ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Jul 14 13:05:54 2000 e6EI5sG27788 Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:05:49 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Witness Marks Dave,IMHO the guides should be good enough to line up the fitting! Shawn Ed Hartzell wrote: Dave. Take a small nail or brad slightly smaller in diameter than the markyou want and dip it in enamel. apply to ferrule and wait. If the ferrule ismetal use a mechanical marking punch and set it very light.Ed Hartzell David Kashuba wrote: Rodmakers- I would appreciate any advice on applying witness marks to ferrules;or any strong opinions pro or con on their use. Thanks! David KashubaFair Oaks CA. ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com from mrmac@tcimet.net Fri Jul 14 14:05:49 2000 e6EJ5nG00124 (Vircom SMTPRS 4.2.181) with ESMTP id Fri, 14 Jul 2000 15:01:02 -0400 Subject: Wrap tightness? Hi again, all - I wondered what the conventional wisdom is on how tightly to do wraps.I have been doing them just about to the limit the silk can take, butlooking over a previous rod that I have fished a couple times, some ofthe interior edge wraps look a little delaminated, sorta, and I wonderedif maybe that was because I had them too tight and maybe a thread poppedin the rod's flexing, although at ths point it is difficult to reallytell exactly what has happened under the varnish without stripping theguide and wraps off. Should I ease up some on the tension, or is itbest to wrap as tightly as possible? Thanks for the help mac from oossg@vbe.com Fri Jul 14 14:16:20 2000 e6EJGIG00445 (envelope- from oossg@vbe.com) "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Wrap tightness? Ralph,In my experience you can wrap too tight. Just enough tensition to hold inplace and not come unwrapped should be plenty. The varnish will also helpto hold guides in place. After replacing hundreds of guides on bamboo rods,I have found most were so tight they dented the surface of the cane.My first plastic rod broke at a guide and after closer examination, I foundI had wrapped the guide so tight in actually broke through the fiberglasswall!Scott Ralph MacKenzie wrote: Hi again, all - I wondered what the conventional wisdom is on how tightly to do wraps.I have been doing them just about to the limit the silk can take, butlooking over a previous rod that I have fished a couple times, some ofthe interior edge wraps look a little delaminated, sorta, and I wonderedif maybe that was because I had them too tight and maybe a thread poppedin the rod's flexing, although at ths point it is difficult to reallytell exactly what has happened under the varnish without stripping theguide and wraps off. Should I ease up some on the tension, or is itbest to wrap as tightly as possible? Thanks for the help mac from Oozakgpt@aol.com Fri Jul 14 15:24:34 2000 e6EKOYG02911 Subject: Suggestion for a lathe Interested in purchasing a lathe for rodbuilding.Anyone have any suggestions on where to start.?What are you all using on the list? from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Fri Jul 14 15:58:06 2000 e6EKw6G04322 Subject: Fwd: Getting Stiffed boundary="part1_24.7bc7d37.26a0d8d1_boundary" --part1_24.7bc7d37.26a0d8d1_boundary I think Bob Maulucci meant for all to read this --part1_24.7bc7d37.26a0d8d1_boundary 0400 2000 15:52:30 -0400 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed boundary="=====================_8243379==_.ALT" --=====================_8243379==_.ALT Hi Joe and list:1. I would give him the 30 days from receipt of the letter (as per Bob N.) and then sell it off and keep the deposit.2. Any able listmember who collects or fishes rods would be smart to get in line if one of Joe's rods does become available. I have cast several and they are fantastic.Hope it works out for everyone.Best regards,Bob 11:49 AM 7/14/00 -0400, you wrote:Hello AllIt seems that a client of mine is stiffing me on a rod. The rodhas been done for two weeks, I have talked to him and made plans to meet himto pick up the rod but he did not show and has not called. I did get my usualdeposit on the rod. My ? is 1. Should I sell the rod and keep the deposit. 2.sell the rod and give the deposit back. 3 . Wait and see what happens. Theproblem with #3 is that I use rodmaking as a good part of my income and Ineed the money. Any advice would be great!T.I.AJoe Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com --=====================_8243379==_.ALT Hi Joe and list:1. I would give him the 30 days from receipt of the letter (as per BobN.) and then sell it off and keep the deposit. to get in line if one of Joe's rods does become available. I have castseveral and they are fantastic.Hope it works out for everyone.Best regards,Bob Hello All that a client of mine is stiffing me on a rod. The rod has been done for two weeks, I have talked to him and made plans to to pick up the rod but he did not show and has not called. I did get myusual deposit on the rod. My ? is 1. Should I sell the rod and keep thedeposit. 2. sell the rod and give the deposit back. 3 . Wait and see what happens.The problem with #3 is that I use rodmaking as a good part of my income and I need the money. Any advice would be great! T.I.A Joe Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_8243379==_.ALT-- --part1_24.7bc7d37.26a0d8d1_boundary-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Jul 14 16:08:04 2000 e6EL83G04707 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:09:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed I would sent him a registered letter, stating when you must be paid, beforeyou sell it, and his deposit is forfeited. Be sure and keep a record. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Getting Stiffed Hello AllIt seems that a client of mine is stiffing me on a rod. The rodhas been done for two weeks, I have talked to him and made plans to meethimto pick up the rod but he did not show and has not called. I did get myusualdeposit on the rod. My ? is 1. Should I sell the rod and keep the deposit.2.sell the rod and give the deposit back. 3 . Wait and see what happens. Theproblem with #3 is that I use rodmaking as a good part of my income and Ineed the money. Any advice would be great!T.I.AJoe from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Fri Jul 14 16:08:58 2000 e6EL8wG04824 Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed Thanks for all the advice on and off list A.J, Bob N., Don,Tim and Bob M.I think it will work out Thanks again Joe from Canerods@aol.com Fri Jul 14 16:17:40 2000 e6ELHdG05101 Subject: Re: Wrap tightness? In a message dated 7/14/00 12:06:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mrmac@tcimet.net writes: Mac, After messing around with many tensioning devices I found that a fly tying bobbin works best. Get one that will hold standard silk thread spools and maybe a second one for doing tipping/intermediates without the need tochange spools. You only need to use the weight of the spool plus bobbin to "tension" the thread and if left hanging below the rod section this method will allow you to have both hands free for other jobs or go answer the phone/call ofnature. Don Burns from Canerods@aol.com Fri Jul 14 16:20:32 2000 e6ELKVG05296 Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed In a message dated 7/14/00 2:09:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Eastkoyfly@aol.com writes: Joe, I hope it just turns out to be just a scheduling conflict. If not, maybe an eBay auction would generate quick cash? Don Burns from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Jul 14 16:34:09 2000 e6ELY7G05806 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:32:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Wrap tightness? I'm no expert, but I've never felt the need to put maximum stress on thethread. Just a good snug wrap, so that you have little trouble pulling thewhip finish loop through. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Wrap tightness? Hi again, all - I wondered what the conventional wisdom is on how tightly to do wraps.I have been doing them just about to the limit the silk can take, butlooking over a previous rod that I have fished a couple times, some ofthe interior edge wraps look a little delaminated, sorta, and I wonderedif maybe that was because I had them too tight and maybe a thread poppedin the rod's flexing, although at ths point it is difficult to reallytell exactly what has happened under the varnish without stripping theguide and wraps off. Should I ease up some on the tension, or is itbest to wrap as tightly as possible? Thanks for the help mac from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Jul 14 16:49:16 2000 e6ELnFG06235 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 14 Jul 2000 16:50:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Suggestion for a lathe It all depends on what you want to do. If you want to make ferrules, and thelike, then buy a decent 10". Look for used South Bend, Atlas, Clausing,etc., as there are some super buys. If only for cork grip, and ferruleseating cuts on the cane, then a smaller size will do nicely. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Suggestion for a lathe Interested in purchasing a lathe for rodbuilding.Anyone have anysuggestionson where to start.?What are you all using on the list? from jim@seahorses.com Fri Jul 14 17:12:26 2000 e6EMCPG06819 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Subject: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Importance: Normal Hi If possible I would like to talk to someone in my area. I have always wantedto build a Bamboo Rod and have enjoyed reading the lists very much, But Ineed to see something before it sinks in. Could someone be of help? Thanks Jim ForsheyAquatic Book ShopP.O. Box 2150Shingle Springs, CA 95682- 2150USA www.Seahorses.com Phone (530)622-7547 (Evenings and weekends), FAX (530)622-7157Wanted Aquarium and Ichthyology (Fish) Books, Magazines and Videos (inany Language)'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜.>.˜'ü'˜.. ,..˜'ü'˜..>>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜.. ,. from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Jul 14 17:29:15 2000 e6EMTEG07179 (204.186.211.12) Organization: ProLog Subject: Granger uplocking seat Hi All, I was out casting a Granger of mine and lost the screw capportion of their uplocking seat. I know it is not supposed to screw allthe way out but this one did and I have seen others do also. If someonehas a seat they would sell me it would be appreciated. The seat need notbe in good condition as long as the screw cap portion is not toobuggered. Maybe someone has a broken butt section holding some Tomatoesup out in the garden. Contact me off list. Thanks, Marty from darrell@rockclimbing.org Fri Jul 14 18:33:33 2000 e6ENXXG08188 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Importance: Normal Well, you might want to check out the upcoming Bishop RodMakers GatheringOctober 13-15th. Here's the link... http://www.vfish.net/gwbishop.htm Be sure to subscribe to the info newsletter, this way you will be notifiedof what's happening and any last minute changes. Tenatively we have Ray Gould, author of "Construction Cane Rods" who will beour "keynote" speaker. We will have demos on some bevelers and otherequipment. It will be held at Chuck Irvine's home/workshop in Bishop, CA soyou can see a real operating rod shop. His shop is the envy of all who visited last year. While the gathering is not around the corner, the next closest gathering isabout an extra 700 miles away or more. Regards, Darrell Leewww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Hi If possible I would like to talk to someone in my area. I have always wantedto build a Bamboo Rod and have enjoyed reading the lists very much, But Ineed to see something before it sinks in. Could someone be of help? Thanks Jim ForsheyAquatic Book ShopP.O. Box 2150Shingle Springs, CA 95682- 2150USA www.Seahorses.com Phone (530)622-7547 (Evenings and weekends), FAX (530)622-7157Wanted Aquarium and Ichthyology (Fish) Books, Magazines and Videos (inany Language)'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜.>.˜'ü'˜.. ,..˜'ü'˜..>>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜.. ,. from bob@downandacross.com Fri Jul 14 18:34:12 2000 e6ENYBG08287 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: Suggestion for a lathe Sherline with the longer bed. Works fine, but a used big lathe would be better.Bob At 04:24 PM 7/14/00 -0400, you wrote:Interested in purchasing a lathe for rodbuilding.Anyone have anysuggestionson where to start.?What are you all using on the list? Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from Canerods@aol.com Fri Jul 14 19:00:04 2000 e6F003G08772 Subject: Re: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? In a message dated 7/14/00 3:12:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time, jim@seahorses.com writes: Jim, I believe Jerry Foster is somewhere in your area. Hope to see you in Bishop later this year. Don Burns from bob@downandacross.com Fri Jul 14 19:33:10 2000 e6F0X9G09210 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: ferrule making Hi list:Two quickies.1. Does anyone have instructions on how to make ferrules from bar stock? Is this method preferable, since I have no soldering abilities whatsoever.2. Can this be done with a Sherline lathe, or is it not accurate enough?Sorry if this has been covered before, but I could not find instructions in the archives.Thanks,Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Jul 14 20:19:21 2000 e6F1JLG09741 Subject: Re: ferrule making In a message dated 07/14/2000 8:41:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bob@downandacross.com writes: Hi Bob,Back a while ago, someone had a write upabout making ferrules from bar stock in the Planing Form. If youcan't find it, let me know, I've probably got it here some were. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Jul 14 20:21:44 2000 e6F1LiG09853 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Hardy CC de France All,a while back someone on here had posted the taper for a CC deFrance (think it might have been you Danny??) and someone else posted aweb page with pictures of an original?? Hardy CC de FRance showingdetails of the wraps and reel seat. I book marked it but cannot seem tofind the bookmark now.A friend is redoing a CC and I said I knew where there were somepictures but do you think I can find that site now??Can someone help me out?TIA,Shawn from bob@downandacross.com Fri Jul 14 20:29:34 2000 e6F1TYG10084 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: Re: ferrule making Hi Dave:I would really appreciate it if you do have it. am definitely putting them on the two rods I am making now.Thanks,Bob At 09:18 PM 7/14/00 -0400, you wrote:In a message dated 07/14/2000 8:41:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,bob@downandacross.com writes: Hi list:Two quickies.1. Does anyone have instructions on how to make ferrules from barstock? Isthis method preferable, since I have no soldering abilities whatsoever.2. Can this be done with a Sherline lathe, or is it not accurate enough?Sorry if this has been covered before, but I could not find instructions inthe archives.Thanks,Bob Maulucci >> Hi Bob,Back a while ago, someone had a writeupabout making ferrules from bar stock in the Planing Form. If youcan't find it, let me know, I've probably got it here some were. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Jul 14 20:32:35 2000 e6F1WZG10220 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Fri, 14 Jul 2000 20:31:35 -0500 Subject: Re: ferrule making I've never worked on a Sherline, but I would think it work be slow going, tomachine them from solid. With a 10", you can make some serious roughingcuts. No reason you couldn't make them accurate though. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: ferrule making Hi list:Two quickies.1. Does anyone have instructions on how to make ferrules from bar stock?Isthis method preferable, since I have no soldering abilities whatsoever.2. Can this be done with a Sherline lathe, or is it not accurate enough?Sorry if this has been covered before, but I could not find instructionsinthe archives.Thanks,Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from rmoon@ida.net Fri Jul 14 20:51:42 2000 e6F1pfG10749 Subject: Re: Hardy CC de France Shawn I saw the specs on the CC de France just a couple of days ago. I can'tremember how I got there, but it is the Sheringham Society web page.http://www.interalpha.net/customer/sheringham/page2.html I hadthat bookmarked, but the book mark brings up the wrong web site. It isthe Sheringham site, but an older edition. I am positive of myfacts, because I had just handled a CC de France 7' rod. Sorry couldn'tget the specs, but I might be able to, because I know the guy who boughtit.Ralph from martinj@aa.net Fri Jul 14 21:30:05 2000 e6F2U4G11201 Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:30:02 -0700 Subject: RE: Getting Stiffed Importance: Normal Kind of a difficult call. When you got the deposit was it clear that it wasa "non refundable deposit"? He might have a valid argument that the depositwas for a rod delivered regardless of the fact that he never picked it up..It might depend on how much trouble he wants to cause. You could always saythat he can't get the deposit back and see how he takes it. Unless you wantto get in a fight on principle the worst that would happen is that after hejumps through a few hoops you end up giving it back. I would have no qualmsabout selling the rod to someone else though even though two weeks soundslike kind of a narrow window for picking it up (to me). If he wants to waitagain for another rod than that would be his choice. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Eastkoyfly@aol.com Subject: Getting Stiffed Hello AllIt seems that a client of mine is stiffing me on a rod. The rodhas been done for two weeks, I have talked to him and made plans to meethimto pick up the rod but he did not show and has not called. I did get myusualdeposit on the rod. My ? is 1. Should I sell the rod and keep the deposit.2.sell the rod and give the deposit back. 3 . Wait and see what happens. Theproblem with #3 is that I use rodmaking as a good part of my income and Ineed the money. Any advice would be great!T.I.AJoe from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Jul 14 21:47:48 2000 e6F2llG11525 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re Hardy cc de FRance boundary="------------A708A17FD5B67DE6946554DC" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- A708A17FD5B67DE6946554DC Thanks all,Found it! In case anyone else is interested!Shawnhttp://www.interalpha.net/customer/cane- rods/page6.html --------------A708A17FD5B67DE6946554DC name="page6.html" filename="page6.html"Content-Base: "http://www.interalpha.net/customer/cane-rods/page6.html"Content- Location: "http://www.interalpha.net/customer/cane-rods/page6.html" Page Title The H=ardy C.C.de France ( this rod made in 1950) There wa=s a great deal of interest shown in this classic and fairly rare Hardy's =rod, when I first mentioned it in Rodmakers group mailings. To help those=who are reproducing the 8'0" version, I list the measurements taken from=my own rod, and photographs of the handle work. The handle was the same = own rod's original - a sort of non-descript green. I have seen others in=bright red, and others in colour-preserved yellow (which looked horrible=). Guide=spacing.0"4="9"16"26"37"51"67&q=uot; agate stripping guide.I would suggest that an additional gui=de or two might be beneficial.Original guides are bronzed cradle ring=s (we call them full open bridge). They were quite small, and more suitab=le for silk lines. I'm replacing with Hopkins and Holloway bronzed sn=akes, sizes 1 and 2, and re-installing the original real agate stripper. =Legend reads: Above winding check wrap: Palakona Regd. TradeMark=Above first intermediate: The "C.C.de France"Thebamboo=is medium brown, and the node pattern the normal Hardy's 3 and 3pat=tern.My rod is numbered E74301 and this makes it a 1950rod.The C.C.de France was made from 1911 to 1961, and in both7'0"=; and 8' lengths. Cane =measurements0" -= .14920&quo=t; .16725" .17930" .18835".20040" .2=1045" .22046" .22746" - 50" ferruleand w=raps50" .23755" .24560" .26265".27070" .29375" .30580" .30885".320"=Overall rod length, less tip top 95=BD"Handlelength&nbs= with lightweight sliding D/L reel band to standard Hardy's screwed-o=n aluminium socket, and decorated and engraved butt cap.Ferrule - Har=dy's own nickel silver. Male size .230"Weight, with guid=es, but without varnish, is just under 4 oz. Photographs of the rod Return to home page --------------A708A17FD5B67DE6946554DC-- from saweiss@flash.net Fri Jul 14 23:03:33 2000 e6F43WG12766 Subject: Re: Granger John,I recently refinished one just like it. It casts a DT5 perfectly and theowner loves to fish with it. I would recommend the same for you. If it is inas good shape as you say, it may be worth $500 or more.Steve I have just aquired a 7 1/2 ft Wright McGill "Granger Special" It feelslikeit should be for #4 or #5 line. The condition other than some minoroxidationon the reel seat is superb. I would really like to somehow establish aballpark idea of its value to determine a course of action regarding what todowith it, ie, make it a wall hanger, refinish, (it doesn't appear to needitat all), or fish it. I can't find any serial or model #s. It does have apatent # and is dated 1938. There are 3 pieces of equal length and anextratip section. The bag appears to be canvas and the tube is alluminium Ithink.If anyone can help me with this I would be very appreciative. Thanks, JohnKesterson from mschaffer@mindspring.com Sat Jul 15 05:46:17 2000 e6FAkFG17093 Subject: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01BFEE28.5E4D73E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BFEE28.5E4D73E0 Got a question for everyone. A friend has a rod where there is =apparently a small opening at one of the joints. At this open area is a =blackish 'stain'. He asked me what caused it, and how to fix it, ie get =rid of the dark staining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the staining may be due to fungus having =gotten in the opening at the joint, but that I wasn't sure, and likewise =I have no idea how to fix the problem. The split at the joint seems to =be restricted to an area of about 1/2 inch along the joint itself, maybe =insufficient amount of glue? The split does not seem to extend beyond =this 1/2 length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be REALLY appreciated by both of us!!Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BFEE28.5E4D73E0 Got a question for everyone. A friend = where there is apparently a small opening at one of the joints. At this = area is a blackish 'stain'. He asked me what caused it, and how to fix = get rid of the dark staining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the staining= to fungus having gotten in the opening at the joint, but that I wasn't = likewise I have no idea how to fix the problem. The split at the joint = be restricted to an area of about 1/2 inch along the joint itself, maybe = insufficient amount of glue? The split does not seem to extend beyond = length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be = appreciated by both of us!!Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BFEE28.5E4D73E0-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Jul 15 08:34:40 2000 e6FDYdG19975 (204.186.33.86) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints Hi Mike, I am pretty sure the stain is caused by fungus. If the rod wasmine I would mix a solution of half bleach nd half water. Wash the arearepeatedly with the solution , rinse with water, allow to dry thoroughly( a few days). Shove glue into the joint with a slip of paper. Put aspool of strong thread into a vise and under strong pressure bind overthe open seam.Allow to dry , remove thread , scrape glue residuecarfully, touch up varnish as needed. This may not remove all of thedark stain as it could have penetrated the fibers . Marty Got a question for everyone. A friend has a rod where there isapparently a small opening at one of the joints. At this open area isa blackish 'stain'. He asked me what caused it, and how to fix it, ieget rid of the dark staining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the staining may be due to fungus havinggotten in the opening at the joint, but that I wasn't sure, andlikewise I have no idea how to fix the problem. The split at the jointseems to be restricted to an area of about 1/2 inch along the jointitself, maybe insufficient amount of glue? The split does not seem toextend beyond this 1/2 length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be REALLY appreciated by both ofus!!Thanks, Mike from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Jul 15 09:01:46 2000 e6FE1iG20376 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:00:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints If it is truly an opening, without glue, it certainly could be fungus.Bleach should kill this. Since you say it's blonde, I doubt it's Resorcinolglue. Most any of the good glues, should allow tight binding over the area,with plenty of drying time allowed. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints Got a question for everyone. A friend has a rod where there is apparently asmall opening at one of the joints. At this open area is a blackish 'stain'.He asked me what caused it, and how to fix it, ie get rid of the darkstaining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the staining may be due to fungus having gottenin the opening at the joint, but that I wasn't sure, and likewise I have no to an area of about 1/2 inch along the joint itself, maybe insufficientamount of glue? The split does not seem to extend beyond this 1/2 length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be REALLY appreciated by both of us!!Thanks, Mike from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Jul 15 10:25:00 2000 e6FFOxG21160 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Pezon and Micheal Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from Bamboomaker@aol.com Sat Jul 15 10:40:02 2000 e6FFe1G21662 Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Shawn, I recently studied two parabolics side-by-side. The first rod was the Pezon 7'7" super parabolic progressive PPP for line size 5/6. This rod was built with a two piece staggered ferrule design. I compared it to a payne 7'9" parabolic in the heavier version (4oz - 6wt). This rod was a 2 piece unstaggered ferrule. Although the Payne was a beautiful rod, I must admit that I really enjoyed casting this pezon more. I might have sent out the taper the last time we talked on rodmakers about staggered ferrules, but if your interested, I'll dig it up and post it again. Regards, Mark Mark C. Lee, M.D.Rochester, MN from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Jul 15 11:06:49 2000 e6FG6nG22129 Subject: Re: Hardy CC de France Organization: GOULD Hi Shawn,I have a Hardy CC de France 8ft x 2pc x 5wt rod made in 1939. If this iswhat you're looking for I'd be glad to post the taper for it.Ray Gould---- - Original Message ----- Subject: Hardy CC de France All,a while back someone on here had posted the taper for a CC deFrance (think it might have been you Danny??) and someone else posted aweb page with pictures of an original?? Hardy CC de FRance showingdetails of the wraps and reel seat. I book marked it but cannot seem tofind the bookmark now.A friend is redoing a CC and I said I knew where there were somepictures but do you think I can find that site now??Can someone help me out?TIA,Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Jul 15 11:09:40 2000 e6FG9cG22269 Subject: Re: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints Organization: GOULD boundary="----=_NextPart_000_007D_01BFEE3C.56E28F00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01BFEE3C.56E28F00 Hi Mike,You might recommend that oxalic acid be tried to remove the stain, then =do an invisible wrap over the spot.Ray Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 3:46 AMSubject: Rod repair- fungus stains and open joints Got a question for everyone. A friend has a rod where there is =apparently a small opening at one of the joints. At this open area is a =blackish 'stain'. He asked me what caused it, and how to fix it, ie get =rid of the dark staining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the staining may be due to fungus having =gotten in the opening at the joint, but that I wasn't sure, and likewise =I have no idea how to fix the problem. The split at the joint seems to =be restricted to an area of about 1/2 inch along the joint itself, maybe =insufficient amount of glue? The split does not seem to extend beyond =this 1/2 length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be REALLY appreciated by both of =us!!Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01BFEE3C.56E28F00 Hi Mike,You might recommend that oxalic acidbe = remove the stain, then do an invisible wrap over the spot.Ray ----- Original Message ----- shaffer Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 = AMSubject: Rod repair- fungus = open joints Got a question for everyone. A friend= where there is apparently a small opening at one of the joints. At = area is a blackish 'stain'. He asked me what caused it, and how to fix = get rid of the dark staining on his blond rod.I mentioned that I thought the = due to fungus having gotten in the opening at the joint, but that I = sure, and likewise I have no idea how to fix the problem. The split at = joint seems to be restricted to an area of about 1/2 inch along the = itself, maybe insufficient amount of glue? The split does not seem to = beyond this 1/2 length.Guys, any help for my buddy would be= appreciated by both of us!!Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01BFEE3C.56E28F00-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Jul 15 11:12:00 2000 e6FGBxG22432 (204.186.33.130) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Hi Shawn, I have a Pezon et Michel 6' Midget PPP for #4 line. Tip andbutt are equal length. PPP I think stands for Progressive PendulatePower. I guess this rod can be considered Parabolic as much as a 6'ercould be. Other than this rod the lightest is a 6'-10" Para Royale for#5, 7'2" Para PPP for #5. Marty Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Jul 15 11:20:15 2000 e6FGKEG22770 Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Organization: GOULD Hi Shawn,I'm currently working on a Pezon Michel "Neroo 2" 252/760 gr two piece rod.I have recorded the taper if you want it.Ray----- Original Message -- --- Subject: Pezon and Micheal Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sat Jul 15 11:32:43 2000 e6FGWgG23046 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.27 201-229-119-110) with ESMTP Sat, 15 Jul 2000 17:32:42 +0100 Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Shawn,Pezon et Michel rods are still being produced !!!!The UK agent is Traditional Angling at www.traditional-angling.co.uk.I was fortunate enough to handle several of their demo units at thisyears Chatsworth Country Fair.......mmmmmm, nice........must startsaving my money..........regards........Paul marty wrote: Hi Shawn, I have a Pezon et Michel 6' Midget PPP for #4 line. Tip andbutt are equal length. PPP I think stands for Progressive PendulatePower. I guess this rod can be considered Parabolic as much as a 6'ercould be. Other than this rod the lightest is a 6'-10" Para Royale for#5, 7'2" Para PPP for #5. Marty Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from chase_phil@webtv.net Sat Jul 15 11:46:23 2000 e6FGkNG23359 (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id JAA23259; Sat, 15 Jul 2000 09:46:23 - ETAsAhQRDfCQFgst0Wg8Z7Rh2uOzsTTK+gIUaayfjz1+n24toVmqdzJplMHYr24= Subject: guide wrapping This is my first correspondence to a great system of rod knowledgesharing. I refinished my first bamboo rod as a kid in the late 40s,today I have a dozen bamboos but have never built one. However I justhelped glue up a rod for a 78 year friend who is now on his second thissummer (his first attempts) so when he gets the bugs out---- Although I made a nice "jig" to spin the blanks on -with a foot petalsewing machine motor- I still would rather turn the rod under my arm anduse a fly tying bobbin hooked in a fly tying vise drill wind the silk onto the proper size spool for the bobbin. I don'tthread the tube but run the thread directly from the spool to the rod.Soap on the spool makes for smooth delivery but you have to bend thearms for enough tension--- no fuzzyness.Leonard Rod Co used shellac as a color preserve. The advantage was veryfast drying between coats and compatible with their Valspar 10 varnish(is it available?). The disadvantage is one too many coats and it doesnot dry for days also the shelf life was short but this has beenimproved.A friend claimed he watched Jim Payne brush varnish a rod and that thevarnish was put on heavy and worked down.This was in the early 60s, Itried it and had runs as expected so I figured the rod had to be kept inmotion and made a spinner (cpl RPM)which worked great but too muchvarnish could also wrinkle(I visited the Leonard refinishing room in theearly 70s? and they were using one that could hold half a dozen piecesat once).I also found that specks and "dust" came from old varnishinside the brush and was difficult to eliminate so lots of soap andwater in cleaning.Now and then the varnish would "pull" and not flow-- Isolved that by dipping the dry brush into turp and flipping it offbefore varnishing. Phil from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Jul 15 12:46:10 2000 e6FHk8G24218 Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:45:58 -0700 Subject: Re: Wulff TT was Dawn Holbrook rod Friends,I've been out of pocket for a few weeks in Alaska (pictures later). Forseveral years I've been a big fan of the TT lines. But I've discovered one Ilike at least as well. Airflo makes what they call a Delta Taper fly line. Afriend sent me one to try out, and I've really put it through the paces thelastfew weeks. It casts very much like the TT lines, but perhaps shoots a littleeasier. It floats higher than any fly line I've ever used, so it picks upeasily, and mends readily. I would highly recommed it to anyone who likes theTT lines and is looking to replace some of them. Harry Robert Clarke wrote: The Wulff long belly lines are also quite nice. I think they are a littlecheaper than the TT. I do really like the TT lines-almost as much as mysilk :) Rob Clarke From: marty CC: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Wulff TT was Dawn Holbrook rodDate: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:00:35 -0400 I think the TT line has a head that has a continuous taper for thefirst 30' or so. A WF line tapers in the first 10' and than levels outto 30' or so . Dennis , you sure you didn't pick up that FrenchtownDeleware River scum on the SA lines? Or maybe a Coney Island white eel?Marty I thought the Triangel taper line from Wulff was a WF line with a veryshort head (terms??) more like a modern shooting line for ultra fastplastic rods, in other words very different from DT lines......I have the silkline/old taper post a couple a weeks ago on my mind....(terms again???) danny ------- > > Danny Twang+47 35 55 80 24GSM 908 94 054Private Work From: nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca (Shawn Pineo)Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 12:56:50 -0400 Cc: "'Rodmakers'" Subject: Re: Dawn Holbrook rod Dennis,I have the Wulff TT in 2/3, 3/4, and 4/5 and I have been highlyimpressed with all them. As far as their "club" size (lol) lines Idon't knowhow they perform, but I have heard nothing but good about the wholeproductline. Shawn "Haftel, Dennis J, CSCIO" wrote: In case anyone is interested, I cast my "rendition" of a Holbrook No. 310, 9 weight yesterdayevening andwe (the rod and I) did much better with the Wulff TT8 than twoScientificAnglers 9 weight WF lines. I have a Scientific Anglers Striper linethat Ithought was the fastest shooting line I had evercast. I also have a Scientific Anglers "top of the line (XPS orsomethinglike that, cost a small fortune)" Bass Bug Taper Floating line that Itriedon the rod. They both seemed a bit too slow (could be read as "tooheavy") the lineout of the tip I couldn't get them to perform. Almost every castproduced atailing loop and the line just wouldn't shoot. That Wulff line, however, is really something. The Wulff made bothSA lineslook "sticky". Neither of those lines would shoot nearly as well astheWulff. In other words, color me impressed! Are all the Wulff linesthatslick? If so, I think I'm a convert. OR... Is it that I overlined the rod with the SA lines and have foundtheright weight with the Wulff line? Does anyone have any experience with Holbrook tapers? Are theytypicallysoft? I wouldn't call it a noodle, but the rod is definitely slow.Don'ttake that as a negative assessment though. I like the action on therod. Iguess I just want to see if I screwed up and how badly. :-) Thanks, Dennis ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Jul 15 12:46:17 2000 e6FHkGG24242 Sat, 15 Jul 2000 10:46:05 -0700 Subject: Re: Justin Charles Bob, Tony,I know this is a little late, but thought you might beinterested in knowing that Judy knows her stuff. She tiessome of the most beautiful Atlantic Salmon flies anyone eversaw. She's a Texas gal, and comes to most of the FFF Mtn.Home, Arkansas conclaves. Harry Tony Young wrote: I'd put Judy on my Christmas card list! Tony "Bamboo rods are considered to be the finest form ofthe rod maker's art. Because building a bamboo rod isvery time consuming, they are quite expensive and probablynot the first rod you will want to consider. Bamboo rodsare usually more flexible than graphite and therefore havea slower action. However, for some types of fishing,where a delicate presentation is necessary, bamboo cannotbe beaten. Many experienced fly fishers feel the pinnacleof the sport is catching a nice spring creek trout on asmall dry fly with a bamboo rod." Excerpt from FFF's Booklet "Introduction to FlyFishing" by Judy Lehmberg Thanks, Judy, wherever you are... we LOVE to read stufflike that! *S* Later,Bob-----Original Message-----From: Randy Brewer Date: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 7:45 PMSubject: Justin Charles I just received my FFF Flyfisher magazine today andfound an advertisementon the back cover for "Justin Charles TMResin-impregnated split-bamboo flyrods" from Sparta, Wisconsin. The wrappings looksomewhat like a productionrod, and dealer inquiries are invited. Anyone haveinformation about thiscompany? No website information was provided and Ididn't find anything witha quick search. It seems as if someone else is takingthe production rodplunge. Comments? Randy Brewerrandy@brewerbamboorods.comhttp://www.brewerbamboorods.com "Helping to conserve precious graphite for stealthaircraft!" /*************************************************************************/AVYoungVisit my web siteat:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html"Do, or do not.There is no 'try'. "- Yoda ('The Empire Strikes Back') *************************************************************************/ --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from mschaffer@mindspring.com Sat Jul 15 15:38:42 2000 e6FKcfG26374 Subject: Dates for SRG? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003A_01BFEE7B.21588260" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BFEE7B.21588260 Guys,Could someone let me know when the SRG will be in October?I want to go again this year--if you don't mind a little comic relief!! Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BFEE7B.21588260 Guys,Could someone let me know when theSRG = October?I want to go again this year--if you = little comic relief!! Mike ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BFEE7B.21588260-- from jojo@ipa.net Sat Jul 15 15:44:28 2000 e6FKiSG26547 Subject: Re: Suggestion for a lathe Look at the possibility of a Taig. Check outwww.pioneer.net/~felice/taig.html I think. The Taig web site iswww.taigtools.com No affiliation, and all that rot. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Suggestion for a lathe Interested in purchasing a lathe for rodbuilding.Anyone have anysuggestionson where to start.?What are you all using on the list? from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Jul 15 15:54:00 2000 e6FKrqG26727 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:55:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Well, the PHY Midge is only 6'-3", and a 4/5 wt., but didn't Orvis have aSuperfine at a 3 wt. ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Hi Shawn, I have a Pezon et Michel 6' Midget PPP for #4 line. Tip andbutt are equal length. PPP I think stands for Progressive PendulatePower. I guess this rod can be considered Parabolic as much as a 6'ercould be. Other than this rod the lightest is a 6'-10" Para Royale for#5, 7'2" Para PPP for #5. Marty Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from Turbotrk@aol.com Sat Jul 15 18:45:44 2000 e6FNjhG28354 Subject: Re: varnishing wraps question. David, I stumbled on the barrel technique when totmbo came in and yelled at me. You use a rod turner to put the varnish on the wraps. You use un- thinned varnish with a mink artist brush with a very small point. Put on many coats almost to the point it drips. You then let it turn the drip until dry. I makes your wraps look excellent. I hope no-one has to kill me for giving away this long time secret. stuart miller from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Jul 15 19:04:13 2000 e6G04BG28656 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:05:29 -0500 Subject: Re: varnishing wraps question. I guess all have "their" way. I prefer lots of thin coats, with drying inbetween, as one heavy coat can wrinkle easily. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: varnishing wraps question. David, I stumbled on the barrel technique when totmbo came in and yelledatme. You use a rod turner to put the varnish on the wraps. You useun-thinned varnish with a mink artist brush with a very small point. Putonmany coats almost to the point it drips. You then let it turn the dripuntildry. I makes your wraps look excellent. I hope no-one has to kill me forgiving away this long time secret. stuart miller from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Jul 16 03:29:46 2000 e6G8TiG03529 Subject: off topic- rugby Organization: vet boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFEF52.E02C0040" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFEF52.E02C0040 Just thought I'd warn you that anything said at this time by Ian Kearney =on the subject of Rugby ought be treated as the ravings of a demented =mind!(Congratulations, NZ. Good game!)Damn!Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFEF52.E02C0040 Just thought I'd warn you that anything= this time by Ian Kearney on the subject of Rugby ought be treated as the = of a demented mind!(Congratulations, NZ. Good =game!)Damn!Peter ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFEF52.E02C0040-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Jul 16 04:35:08 2000 e6G9Z7G04290 (204.186.33.18) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Hi Art, Give me a day or two and I will mike and post it. I thought therod had a tip and butt equal length but I just looked at it and it hasan offset ferrule with a long ferrule plug. Marty Hi Marty,Any chance of getting that baby posted to the list? Sounds like a fun"leetle feller" for Eastern fishing!Thanks,Art At 12:06 PM 07/15/2000 -0400, you wrote:Hi Shawn, I have a Pezon et Michel 6' Midget PPP for #4 line. Tip andbutt are equal length. PPP I think stands for Progressive PendulatePower. I guess this rod can be considered Parabolic as much as a 6'ercould be. Other than this rod the lightest is a 6'- 10" Para Royale for#5, 7'2" Para PPP for #5. Marty Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Sun Jul 16 07:38:36 2000 e6GCcaG05671 Subject: ferrules Hey did any of you see this ? I think I remember it being a good topic. It looks very interesting no? Take a look.http://www.fries-rods.dk/bfrods.htmJoe from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Jul 16 09:13:08 2000 e6GED7G07235 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A414184600FC; Sun, 16 Jul 2000 10:17:56 -0400 Subject: Wise Rodbuilding article The Rodbuilding article from the Wise FIshermen's Encyclopedia, with allillustrations, is now on my website under "Extracts".Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from chase_phil@webtv.net Sun Jul 16 09:49:26 2000 e6GEnQG07649 (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id HAA11882; Sun, 16 Jul 2000 07:49:27 - ETAtAhQErtSA2eS/endNC+h+FH9TIQS8GgIVAMRt0f5iTjG81oePKhOPD2p1kGxq Subject: reelseat finish Ralph;You were asking about a possible finish for a reelseat- I make knives asa hobby and just got the Sept 2000 issue of BLADE magazine.A 3 pagearticle on the use of super glue (including warnings of use) for a woodfinish that looked spectacular and described as"high-gloss durablegrip".A few points:-the glue likes non-porous materials-SG will stay fluid for hours on wax paper-the author,Bill Herndon, uses it as a sealer such as with (legal) ivoryto prevent warping-by applying it with a wire- pinhole openings can be filled-epoxy does not polish after drying SG does-SG demands a multiple coat finish-all multiple-coated finishes of all types- plastic,fiberglass,lacquer,etc.-must be allowed to dry-SG when applied in more than 6-8 coats needs to dry 5-10 days-longer not dry-SG will not stick to all woods--it may be used as a grain filler on heavy, oily woods-clean the wood with acetone to remove any finger oils- rubber gloves can NOT be used but throwaway plastic gloves areexcellent ($15/100 pairs) -work in a well ventilated area-use a small puddle of SG on the wax paper-use the tip of one finger of the plastic glue @ a time-dip and spreadon the wood-work fast-the glue will dry quickly with the early coats-do 3-5 coats per application to start-avoid runs-allow to dry for anhour or so and repeat-3-5 of the applications/ day is max-repeat until you get a good, deep finish-20-30 coats total-let wood dry for 5-10 days-do NOT sand between coats-an accelerator may= a frost and wrinkles-when cured carefully sand down the bumps and runs (320 or so grit) then4/0 steel wool- use a slow buffer with a loose, soft, unstitched wheel with white(rouge) plastic buffing cpd and VERY lightly buff the author also usesin the last buff Semichrome, Flitz, etc on a loose wheel-too much buff and removes the finish- if surface is dull buffing toofast- if pinholes the finish is not dry-he uses a neutral shoe wax to finish like to try it. I don't have any answers to questions as haven't triedit.Phil (on the Neversink River) from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Jul 16 10:19:13 2000 e6GFJBG08045 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 16 Jul 2000 10:18:24 -0500 Subject: Re: reelseat finish The world of super glues, is vast and wide ! The better types are in themodel airplane world, some having a shelf life of 2 years ! All I have seen,or tried, are not resistant to methanol's, MEK.'s and the like, and in factwill curdle if some keytone bases are put over them. Prices in hobby shopsrun around $3.99, for a full 1 oz. bottle, and there are some that have nodangerous fumes, at about double the price ! The best I have found comes from Sig Mfg., that is right across the street from Brownells', in Montezuma, Iowa ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: reelseat finish Ralph;You were asking about a possible finish for a reelseat- I make knives asa hobby and just got the Sept 2000 issue of BLADE magazine.A 3 pagearticle on the use of super glue (including warnings of use) for a woodfinish that looked spectacular and described as"high-gloss durablegrip".A few points:-the glue likes non-porous materials-SG will stay fluid for hours on wax paper-the author,Bill Herndon, uses it as a sealer such as with (legal) ivoryto prevent warping-by applying it with a wire- pinhole openings can be filled-epoxy does not polish after drying SG does-SG demands a multiple coat finish-all multiple-coated finishes of all types- plastic,fiberglass,lacquer,etc.-must be allowed to dry-SG when applied in more than 6-8 coats needs to dry 5-10 days-longer not dry-SG will not stick to all woods--it may be used as a grain filler on heavy, oily woods-clean the wood with acetone to remove any finger oils- rubber gloves can NOT be used but throwaway plastic gloves areexcellent ($15/100 pairs)-work in a well ventilated area-use a small puddle of SG on the wax paper-use the tip of one finger of the plastic glue @ a time-dip and spreadon the wood-work fast-the glue will dry quickly with the early coats-do 3-5 coats per application to start-avoid runs-allow to dry for anhour or so and repeat-3-5 of the applications/ day is max-repeat until you get a good, deep finish-20-30 coats total-let wood dry for 5-10 days-do NOT sand between coats-an accelerator may= a frost and wrinkles-when cured carefully sand down the bumps and runs (320 or so grit) then4/0 steel wool- use a slow buffer with a loose, soft, unstitched wheel with white(rouge) plastic buffing cpd and VERY lightly buff the author also usesin the last buff Semichrome, Flitz, etc on a loose wheel-too much buff and removes the finish- if surface is dull buffing toofast- if pinholes the finish is not dry-he uses a neutral shoe wax to finish like to try it. I don't have any answers to questions as haven't triedit.Phil (on the Neversink River) from bob@downandacross.com Sun Jul 16 13:01:22 2000 e6GI1LG09712 (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) (envelope- from bob@downandacross.com) Subject: The Planing Form Hi guys:I just wanted to thank those who encouraged me to subscribe to Ron's fine newsletter. I have thoroughly enjoyed going through the past two years of issues I received Friday.I just hope that some of the ideas we see here get submitted. They would make fine articles, and I am sure that there are other people who don't subscribe to both this list and the Planing Form who have a lot to share and learn with us all.Best regards,Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sun Jul 16 16:54:03 2000 e6GLs2G12379 Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:53:58 PDT Subject: Re: reelseat finish From: "nobler" Subject: Re: reelseat finishDate: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 10:23:14 -0500 The world of super glues, is vast and wide ! The better types are in themodel airplane world, some having a shelf life of 2 years ! All I have seen,or tried, are not resistant to methanol's, MEK.'s and the like, and in factwill curdle if some keytone bases are put over them. Prices in hobby shopsrun around $3.99, for a full 1 oz. bottle, and there are some that have nodangerous fumes, at about double the price ! The best I have found comes from Sig Mfg., that is right across the street from Brownells', in Montezuma, Iowa ! GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Phil Chase" Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 9:49 AMSubject: reelseat finish Ralph;You were asking about a possible finish for a reelseat- I make knives asa hobby and just got the Sept 2000 issue of BLADE magazine.A 3 pagearticle on the use of super glue (including warnings of use) for a wood> >finish that looked spectacular and described as"high-gloss durablegrip".A few points:-the glue likes non-porous materials-SG will stay fluid for hours on wax paper-the author,Bill Herndon, uses it as a sealer such as with (legal) ivoryto prevent warping-by applying it with a wire- pinhole openings can be filled-epoxy does not polish after drying SG does-SG demands a multiple coat finish-all multiple-coated finishes of all types-plastic,fiberglass,lacquer,etc.- must be allowed to dry-SG when applied in more than 6-8 coats needs to dry 5-10 days-longer not dry-SG will not stick to all woods--it may be used as a grain filler on heavy, oily woods-clean the wood with acetone to remove any finger oils- rubber gloves can NOT be used but throwaway plastic gloves areexcellent ($15/100 pairs)-work in a well ventilated area-use a small puddle of SG on the wax paper-use the tip of one finger of the plastic glue @ a time-dip and spreadon the wood-work fast-the glue will dry quickly with the early coats-do 3-5 coats per application to start-avoid runs-allow to dry for anhour or so and repeat-3-5 of the applications/ day is max-repeat until you get a good, deep finish-20-30 coats total-let wood dry for 5-10 days-do NOT sand between coats-an accelerator may= a frost and wrinkles-when cured carefully sand down the bumps and runs (320 or so grit)then4/0 steel wool- use a slow buffer with a loose, soft, unstitched wheel with white(rouge) plastic buffing cpd and VERY lightly buff the author also usesin the last buff Semichrome, Flitz, etc on a loose wheel-too much buff and removes the finish- if surface is dull buffing toofast- if pinholes the finish is not dry-he uses a neutral shoe wax to finish like to try it. I don't have any answers to questions as haven't triedit.Phil (on the Neversink River) I have been using only Sig epoxies and CyA on my rods for a long while now. Superior stuffA.J.________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from mep@mint.net Sun Jul 16 17:00:16 2000 e6GM0GG12584 Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:00:16 -0400 Subject: Re: Getting Stiffed The purpose of a deposit is to force the customer to take on some of therisk of making the product. If the customer doesn't come through withthe rest of the money he looses his deposit. Give him one more chancethrough the mail, return receipt. Make sure he isn't in the hospital (hence the letter). If he doesn't come through keep the money and sellthe rod. Mike from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Jul 16 17:11:20 2000 e6GMBJG12890 (204.186.33.29) Organization: ProLog Subject: Pezon et Michel 6' 2pc. Super Parabolic PPPMidget #4line Hi All, Here is the 6' P&M Super Parabolic PPP Midget taper. Rod saysSuper Parabolic but the action is a med/fast dry fly. I remember at onetime having a P&M reel marked Super Parabolic "76". So much for a name.It's a really great taper though. Rod has an offset ferrule. Measuredover varnish, deduct .003".Super Parabolic PPP Midget 6' 2 3/32oz #4Tip section length 40 3/4" / Butt section 32 1/4" Tip Butt00 .068" .176"05 .076 .18510 .085 .19815 .102 .21420 .117 .23025 .126 23" .240 start of grip30 .14135 .15740 .166 Guide spacing from TT 5 3/4"12"18 3/4"25 3/4"33 3/4"45" stripper5 3/4" grip/ 3 1/2" Cap & Ring with cork spacer.Good Luck, Marty DeSapio from dan_cooney@attglobal.net Sun Jul 16 19:27:27 2000 e6H0RRG14470 SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Wise Rodbuilding article Reed, Thanks for taking the time to share the Rodbuilding section of "The WiseFishermen's Encyclopedia" with all of us. It is really some interestingreading. What year was it published? Regards,Dan Cooney---------------------------------------------reed curry wrote: The Rodbuilding article from the Wise FIshermen's Encyclopedia, with allillustrations, is now on my website under "Extracts".Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from wlwalter@bellatlantic.net Sun Jul 16 19:40:30 2000 e6H0eTG14764 Subject: Impregnation I remember seeing a note about someone doing a test with immersing somecane in Poly to do an impregnating test. I never did see if he didanything further or how it turned out. I may be interested in doing someimpregnating of a few rods and would be interested in knowing if usingPolyurethane turned out. from anglport@con2.com Sun Jul 16 20:31:50 2000 e6H1VnG15470 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A10F65A0040; Sun, 16 Jul 2000 21:27:43 -0400 Subject: Re: ferrules All,What was the length and line weight of the H-I Tonka Queen? And werethescetions equal lengths?Thanks,Art from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Jul 16 21:19:28 2000 e6H2JPG16145 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Sun, 16 Jul 2000 21:20:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Impregnation I think Bob Nunley got some very good results, by impregnating, but I can'trecall exactly. How about it Bob ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Impregnation I remember seeing a note about someone doing a test with immersing somecane in Poly to do an impregnating test. I never did see if he didanything further or how it turned out. I may be interested in doing someimpregnating of a few rods and would be interested in knowing if usingPolyurethane turned out. from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Jul 16 21:50:15 2000 e6H2oEG16637 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A58A1A9A00FC; Sun, 16 Jul 2000 22:55:06 -0400 Subject: Re: Wise Rodbuilding article Dan,Sorry for the omission, the copyright was 1951, to W. H. Wise Publishing.As you can imagine, this article took some time to prep for the net. I'llbe putting more extracts from "ancient" tomes up as I can.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Dan Cooney wrote: Reed, Thanks for taking the time to share the Rodbuilding section of "The WiseFishermen's Encyclopedia" with all of us. It is really some interestingreading. What year was it published? Regards,Dan Cooney---------------------------------------------reed curry wrote: The Rodbuilding article from the Wise FIshermen's Encyclopedia, with allillustrations, is now on my website under "Extracts".Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from mrmac@tcimet.net Sun Jul 16 22:48:14 2000 e6H3mEG17501 (envelope- from mrmac@tcimet.net) Subject: Tonka Queen Art -The one I've got is 7' 9" and throws a pretty nice 5/6 TT line. Sections areequallength. Art Port wrote: All,What was the length and line weight of the H-I Tonka Queen? And werethescetions equal lengths?Thanks,Art from caneman@clnk.com Sun Jul 16 22:50:41 2000 e6H3oeG17624 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com; Sun, 16 Jul 2000 22:45:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Impregnation George,I was working on something that had a lot of promise, but haven't beenable to mess with it lately. I emailed Bill offlist on what I had done, butit needs a lot more "trial and error" work before it can be nailed down.Things just got too hectic around here to do anything for the pastcouple of months, but, hopefully, after August or September, I'll pick up onit again and see how it comes out. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Impregnation I think Bob Nunley got some very good results, by impregnating, but I can'trecall exactly. How about it Bob ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Bill Walters" Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 7:43 PMSubject: Impregnation I remember seeing a note about someone doing a test with immersingsomecane in Poly to do an impregnating test. I never did see if he didanything further or how it turned out. I may be interested in doing someimpregnating of a few rods and would be interested in knowing if usingPolyurethane turned out. from caneman@clnk.com Sun Jul 16 22:53:09 2000 e6H3r8G17778 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Sun, 16 Jul 2000 22:48:02 -0500 Subject: FFF Conclave boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0079_01BFEF77.FCC85F80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BFEF77.FCC85F80 Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the Conclave? I'll be =there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we =can get together. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BFEF77.FCC85F80 Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the = be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we = together. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BFEF77.FCC85F80-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Mon Jul 17 01:56:42 2000 e6H6ufG19853 Sun, 16 Jul 2000 23:56:37 PDT Subject: Re: ferrules From: Art Port Subject: Re: ferrulesDate: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 21:33:42 -0400 All,What was the length and line weight of the H-I Tonka Queen? And werethescetions equal lengths?Thanks,Art The Queen was a 5wt 7'9" two pc rod with equal sections. I have the taper and guide spacing around somewhere if you want it. The queen cast very well, nicely tuned to the faster action that people prefer today. Would not have believed it unless I cast the thing. H&I actually could build a decent rod if they wanted to.A.J.Thramer ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from anglport@con2.com Mon Jul 17 05:56:21 2000 e6HAuKG22040 (SMTPD32-6.00) id A5617F5007E; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 06:52:17 -0400 Subject: Re: Tonka Queen Thanks to all who responded. I had the taper but didn't know the grossdetails of the thing! Crazy, huh? You know how thick to make a rod everyfive inches, but you don't know how many "five-inches-es" there are!:-) Art At 11:44 PM 07/16/2000 -0400, Ralph MacKenzie wrote:Art -The one I've got is 7' 9" and throws a pretty nice 5/6 TT line. Sectionsare equallength. Art Port wrote: All,What was the length and line weight of the H-I Tonka Queen? Andwere thescetions equal lengths?Thanks,Art from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Mon Jul 17 06:03:56 2000 e6HB3sG22230 Subject: Repaire I just got two old rods in for repair. They are both Norwegian built,A.Hoergaard.One is a bastard called SpinnGlass, its a spinning rod with splitcanebutt, glass tip.The but has a splinter ca. 5" down from the ferrule. It is one of thesplines that has a break at the node. I t seems like it has splinter 3"each side of the break, 2-3mm deep.The splinter is only on the spline that broke, none of the other has anydamage that I cane see. After a look in the Garrison book, he suggest to use Elmers Woodworkingglue, Isuppose it is a ordinary white PVA wood glue?What do You list members think I should do, use "white" glu, PU or maybeepoxy?And will the repair make the rod fishable again, it is a 9` salmon rod? TIAdanny from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jul 17 07:34:45 2000 e6HCYiG23407 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 17 Jul 2000 07:33:46 -0500 Subject: Re: Repaire I've done 2 similar repairs using the ProBond, and the work/repair isinvisible ! Hard flexing shows nothing. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Repaire I just got two old rods in for repair. They are both Norwegian built,A.Hoergaard.One is a bastard called SpinnGlass, its a spinning rod with splitcanebutt, glass tip.The but has a splinter ca. 5" down from the ferrule. It is one of thesplines that has a break at the node. I t seems like it has splinter 3"each side of the break, 2-3mm deep.The splinter is only on the spline that broke, none of the other has anydamage that I cane see. After a look in the Garrison book, he suggest to use Elmers Woodworkingglue, Isuppose it is a ordinary white PVA wood glue?What do You list members think I should do, use "white" glu, PU or maybeepoxy?And will the repair make the rod fishable again, it is a 9` salmon rod? TIAdanny from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Mon Jul 17 08:36:10 2000 e6HDa9G25439 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Gudebrods products boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0021_01BFF005.91BDC8E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BFF005.91BDC8E0 Hi Listers I=B4ve bought the following Gudebrod Products: Color Preserver and Rod Varnish 822 I have tested them and found that their ability to preservethe colour of Gudebrods Nylon Thread and their Silk, andPearsalls Gossamer Silk, is better than any other methodof laquering the thread windings. What I dont now is, how about durability. Are there any ofYou guys who have long time experience with these products,I=B4d be very glad to hear from You. reagrds, CarstenDania Flyrods ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BFF005.91BDC8E0 Hi Listers I=B4ve bought the following Gudebrod =Products: Color Preserver and Rod Varnish 822 preservethe colour of Gudebrods Nylon Thread and their Silk,= and methodof laquering the thread windings. What I dont now is, how about durability. Are there = ofYou guys who have long time experience with products,I=B4d be very glad to hear from You. reagrds, CarstenDania Flyrods ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BFF005.91BDC8E0-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Jul 17 08:39:22 2000 e6HDdJG25678 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:39:16 +0800 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:39:15 +0800 Subject: Re: off topic- rugby Yeah well, Aust would have won too if they had have just scored morepoints.....It was a good game..... I guess............................ Well done NZ. Tony At 06:23 PM 7/16/00 +1000, petermckean wrote: Just thought I'dwarn you that anything said at this time by Ian Kearney on the subject ofRugby ought be treated as the ravings of a demented mind!(Congratulations, NZ. Good game!)Damn!Peter /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'. " - Yoda ('The Empire Strikes Back') /*************************************************************************/ from ingvar.cane@swipnet.se Mon Jul 17 08:50:11 2000 e6HDoAG26330 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:49:03 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: Pezon et Michel boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000F_01BFF006.96EC45C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BFF006.96EC45C0 Hi all, Once upon a time there was a serie of PPP rods Progressiv Perpendicular =Power is what the three P:s stand for. It were the Supermarvel 7=B42" =staggerde ferrule #5 quick and nice dryfly rod, the Colorado 7=B47" =staggered ferrule #4-5 line medium to parabolic action and a very fine =rod, the Fario Club 8=B45" Charles Ritz;s famous taper fo a #5 line =parabolic action, the Power Plus 8=B43" fast but inclining to parabolic =action #6-7 and the Long Cast 8=B47" for a #6-7 line parabolic but =somewhat slow. It was in the end of 60 and in the beginning of the 70 =and I have not any of left because i sold them and bought (dare I say it =) graphiterods instead.I have found the tapers for the Colorado, the Supermarvel and the Fario =Club (Hexrod on line), but I still is trying to find the taper for the =Power Plus does anyone out there have it. I am very interested in it =because I plane to modifie it and make it a threepiece hollow 8=B43". =(sorry for my terrible Sw English) Ingvar ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BFF006.96EC45C0 Hi all, Once upon a time there was a serie of = Supermarvel 7=B42" staggerde ferrule #5 quick and nice dryfly rod, the = 7=B47" staggered ferrule #4-5 line medium to parabolic action and a very = the Fario Club 8=B45" Charles Ritz;s famous taper fo a #5 line parabolic = the Power Plus 8=B43" fast but inclining to parabolic action #6-7 and = Cast 8=B47" for a #6-7 line parabolic but somewhat slow. It was in the = and in the beginning of the 70 and I have not any of left because i sold = and bought (dare I say it ) graphiterods instead.I have found the tapers for the = find the taper for the Power Plus does anyone out there have it. I am = interested in it because I plane to modifie it and make it a threepiece = 8=B43". (sorry for my terrible Sw English) Ingvar ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BFF006.96EC45C0-- from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Mon Jul 17 09:17:06 2000 e6HEH5G27468 0400 Subject: guide spacing for a Young Para-14 boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01BFEFFA.B0EB0429" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFEFFA.B0EB0429 Hi...does anyone know the guide spacing (and sizes) for the 7'9" YoungPara 14? Thanks in advance...Andy ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFEFFA.B0EB0429 guide spacing for a Young Para-14 Hi...does anyone know the guide spacing (and sizes) forthe 7'9" Young Para 14? Thanks in advance...Andy ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFEFFA.B0EB0429-- from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Jul 17 10:45:15 2000 e6HFjDG01442 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 10:47:41 -0500 Subject: Re: FFF Conclave boundary="------------2D959C9D4B23C6C030152E1F" --------------2D959C9D4B23C6C030152E1F Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston.Look me up in the tyers aisle. Anyone else going,stop by and say hello.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Nunley wrote: Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to theConclave? I'll be there from the 31st on, andif others are going to be there, maybe we canget together. Bob --------------2D959C9D4B23C6C030152E1F Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston. Look me up in the tyersaisle. Anyone else going, stop by and say hello. Bob Nunley wrote: be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we --------------2D959C9D4B23C6C030152E1F-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Jul 17 11:03:12 2000 e6HG3BG02345 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:03:06 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: FFF Conclave boundary="------------6274B644123A038E44368841" --------------6274B644123A038E44368841 Bob and Tony,Are you guys going to be at the Catskillsgathering on 9 and 10 of Sept?? Shawn Tony Spezio wrote: Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston. Look me up in the tyersaisle. Anyone else going, stop by and say hello.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Nunley wrote: Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the Conclave? I'll bethere from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybewe can get together. Bob --------------6274B644123A038E44368841 Bob and Tony, Are you guys going to be at the Catskills gathering on 9 and 10 of Sept?? ShawnTony Spezio wrote:Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston. Look me up in the tyersaisle. Anyone else going, stop by and say hello. Bob Nunley wrote: be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe wecan get together. Bob --------------6274B644123A038E44368841-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Jul 17 11:18:57 2000 e6HGIuG02923 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:18:52 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Rod Makers List Serve Subject: Re: FFF Conclave boundary="------------E0684A2E11B7582BC6A7A278" --------------E0684A2E11B7582BC6A7A278 Man,you guys are addicted as bad as me, couldn't have got muchfaster response times if we were in a chat room!LOLShawn Shawn Pineo wrote: Bob and Tony,Are you guys going to be at the Catskillsgathering on 9 and 10 of Sept?? Shawn Tony Spezio wrote: Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston. Look me up in thetyers aisle. Anyone else going, stop by and say hello.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Nunley wrote: Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the Conclave? I'll bethere from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybewe can get together. Bob --------------E0684A2E11B7582BC6A7A278 Man, addictedas bad as me, couldn't have got much faster response times if we were ina chat room!LOL ShawnShawn Pineo wrote:Bob and Tony, Are you guys going to be at the Catskills gathering on 9 and 10 of Sept?? ShawnTony Spezio wrote:Bob,I plan on leaving on the 27 th for Livingston. Look me up in the tyersaisle. Anyone else going, stop by and say hello. Bob Nunley wrote: be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe wecan get together. Bob --------------E0684A2E11B7582BC6A7A278-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Mon Jul 17 11:19:24 2000 e6HGJNG02990 Subject: RE: FFF Conclave boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01BFF00A.C0337440" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFF00A.C0337440 Where can I get more info on the Conclave? I'm going to be in Mt around thenand want to see if I can get to Livingston for some of it. Barry Kling -----Original Message----- Subject: FFF Conclave Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the Conclave? I'll be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we can gettogether. Bob ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFF00A.C0337440 Where can I get more info on the Conclave? I'm going to be in Mt around then andwant to see if I can get to Livingston for some of it. Barry Kling -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley 10:49 Conclave I'll be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe wecan get together. Bob ------_=_NextPart_001_01BFF00A.C0337440-- from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Jul 17 11:40:04 2000 e6HGe3G03999 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 11:42:31 -0500 Subject: Re: FFF Conclave boundary="------------CDEAE9783A87BB2612ACB344" --------------CDEAE9783A87BB2612ACB344 Barry,Go to www.fedflyfishers.org and click on theConclave. If you need any additional info contactme off list.Stop by and say hello.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Where can I get more info on the Conclave? I'mgoing to be in Mt around then and want to see ifI can get to Livingston for some of it.BarryKling -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 10:49 PM Subject: FFF Conclave Is anyone on the list going toLivingston to the Conclave? I'll bethere from the 31st on, and if othersare going to be there, maybe we canget together. Bob --------------CDEAE9783A87BB2612ACB344 Barry,Go to www.fedflyfishers.org and click on the Conclave. If you needany additional info contact me off list.Stop by and say hello. "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Wherecan I get more info on the Conclave? I'm going to be in Mt around thenand want to see if I can get to Livingston for some ofit.BarryKling -----OriginalMessage----- Sent: Sunday, July 16,200010:49 PM ServeSubject: FFFConclave be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we --------------CDEAE9783A87BB2612ACB344-- from lblove@omniglobal.net Mon Jul 17 12:22:13 2000 e6HHMCG05672 (SMTPD32-5.05) id A0C2E379019E; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 12:22:10 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: FFF Conclave boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0053_01BFEFE9.5FCC34A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0053_01BFEFE9.5FCC34A0 http://www.fedflyfishers.org/show2000/default.htm is the first page of =the conclave info... hope it helps,have fun ya'll... Brad Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 11:18 AMSubject: RE: FFF Conclave Where can I get more info on the Conclave? I'm going to be in Mt =around then and want to see if I can get to Livingston for some of it. Barry Kling-----Original Message----- Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 10:49 PM Subject: FFF Conclave Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the Conclave? I'll be =there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, maybe we =can get together. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0053_01BFEFE9.5FCC34A0 http://www.fed= the first page of the conclave info... hope it helps,have fun ya'll... Brad ----- Original Message ----- Kling, Barry W. Makers List Serve Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 = AMSubject: RE: FFF Conclave Where can I get more info on theConclave? = to be in Mt around then and want to see if I can get to Livingston for = it. Barry Kling -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley ServeSubject: FFF Conclave Is anyone on the list going to Livingston to the = I'll be there from the 31st on, and if others are going to be there, = we can get together. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0053_01BFEFE9.5FCC34A0-- from tfinger@services.state.mo.us Mon Jul 17 14:05:54 2000 e6HJ5sG10427 Comments: Authenticated sender is Organization: Missouri House of Representatives Subject: Orvis ferrules To the List: Does anyone on this list have experience with removing Orvis ferrules? I have a 2-pc. mid-60's vintage 7-1/2' rod with a factory replacement female ferrule that was poorly mounted (not straight and slightly loose) by them. I'd like to reset it without shipping the rod back, but the ferrule has defied removal after trying gentle heating. The ferrule itself is fine. It lacks serrations, but in the lower portion that had been covered with the wrap there are two small depressions that under magnification look more like sharply punched dimples rather than sunken pins. Any ideas on what they are? Could they be carefully drilled out to allow removal? As an alternative to removal: the heating has allowed straightening of the ferrule, and I can no longer feel the previous rather abrupt movement when pushing on the ferrule perpendicular to the rod shaft. I'd like to assume that they used a heat setting ferrule cement and that the heating reset the ferrule properly. Visually, the ferrule remains straight. However, with a tip mounted in the ferrule and holding my finger where the ferrule meets the cane, I can still feel some very, very slight movement when I flex the rod. I've never held my finger on an unwrapped ferrule this way before, so I don't know what is typical. Is this very slight movement typical and the cause of the nearly universal crack in varnished wraps at the ferrule, or is it dangerous to the rod? Thanks in advance for your help... Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from Canerods@aol.com Mon Jul 17 14:45:01 2000 e6HJj1G12926 Subject: Nickel Silver wire follow-up All, I promised a followup on my web source of NS after I recieved my order. Well, it arrived and upon openning th epackage I found that the company had subsitutied brass wire for the 18 guage NS wire that I needed the most. The 20 gauge was NS and is fine. I've email them and I'm waiting to hear back. So at this time, I can't say that I'd give them a thumbs up - yet. Don Burns PS - If anyone else wants to try them knowing the problem that I've had - I'll publish the web site at this time: http://www.wire- sculpture.com/practicewire.htm from rmoon@ida.net Mon Jul 17 14:56:37 2000 e6HJuVG13691 Subject: Re: FFF Conclave FFF program chair did not schedule anything specifically for bamboo rodbuilders, As many of you know we had an all day Symposium two years agoin Idaho Falls.and then we also had one last year in GatlinbergI have received a number of inquiries about what we are going to do thisyear. At first I was looking at privately sponsoring some kind ofreception, but scheduling conflicts have made that virtuallyimpossible. The FFF office, however, has generously given me two boothsto have some kind of bamboo exhibit. I am afraid that beyond showingthe tools materials and supplies and demonstrating how to etc, I can'toffer much more. I would like to see the booths used a a meeting place acquainted. . Personally I am not trying to sell any of my wares, butLauren Bagley and given me permission to use the space for any of youwho might like to show your rods and/or sell them. I will need to beinformed before hand if you wish to do this. I am inviting all those ofyou who are going to attend to come to the booths (61-62) and meet andvisit others. Also if any one has a special presentation (formal orinformal) and would like to give it, we will try to drum up audiences.If any of you would like help me out and spend an hour or more watchingthe booth and meeting rod builders, let me know. The open days areThursday-Saturday 9:00 to 5:00 (August 2-5). Any questions suggestionsitc. Please e-mail me rmoon@ida.net Ralph MoonI will try to arrand with Bob Wiltshire to have a small collection ofclassic cane rods. Including a huge Winston. from jczimny@dol.net Mon Jul 17 15:08:41 2000 e6HK8eG14200 Organization: J. C. Zimny Rod Company Subject: Re: Orvis ferrules I'm sure that they were pinned. Find the pins and remove them.John Z Terry Finger wrote: To the List: Does anyone on this list have experience with removing Orvisferrules? I have a 2-pc. mid-60's vintage 7-1/2' rod with a factoryreplacement female ferrule that was poorly mounted (not straight andslightly loose) by them. I'd like to reset it without shipping therod back, but the ferrule has defied removal after trying gentleheating. The ferrule itself is fine. It lacks serrations, but in the lowerportion that had been covered with the wrap there are twosmall depressions that under magnification look more likesharply punched dimples rather than sunken pins. Any ideas on whatthey are? Could they be carefully drilled out to allow removal? As an alternative to removal: the heating has allowed straighteningof the ferrule, and I can no longer feel the previous rather abruptmovement when pushing on the ferrule perpendicular to the rod shaft.I'd like to assume that they used a heat setting ferrule cement andthat the heating reset the ferrule properly. Visually, the ferruleremains straight. However, with a tip mounted in the ferrule andholding my finger where the ferrule meets the cane, I can still feelsome very, very slight movement when I flex the rod. I've never heldmy finger on an unwrapped ferrule this way before, so I don't knowwhat is typical. Is this very slight movement typical and the causeof the nearly universal crack in varnished wraps at the ferrule, oris it dangerous to the rod? Thanks in advance for your help... Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon Jul 17 15:16:10 2000 e6HKG9G14643 NAA11642 ESMTP for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:15:51 -0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: garrison tape Hoagy has re-released the garrison tape and they $25 plus shipping. RonBarch has the ordering form that came with this months planing form forthose of you who don't subscribe. I saw the tape up at corbett lake this yearand it is definitely worth the money. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jul 17 15:36:17 2000 e6HKaGG15311 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:35:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Gudebrods products That's interesting Carsten. I've been using an old bottle of color preserverthat's at least 40 years old, and it has always left the color as original.Then I got some olive green to match an old Shakespeare, and the first coatof the old reliable, turned the olive almost black ! I should have testedit, but after so long, I wasn't even thinking of such a color change. Liveand learn, I guess ! longer, and I like the clear look. In all, I've never seen color preservedwraps stay really nice, if the rod is fished much. Varnished wraps seem tolast forever, and are easy to touch up. BTW, who carries the Gudebrod preserver ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Gudebrods products Hi Listers I've bought the following Gudebrod Products: Color Preserver and Rod Varnish 822 I have tested them and found that their ability to preservethe colour of Gudebrods Nylon Thread and their Silk, andPearsalls Gossamer Silk, is better than any other methodof laquering the thread windings. What I dont now is, how about durability. Are there any ofYou guys who have long time experience with these products,I'd be very glad to hear from You. reagrds, CarstenDania Flyrods from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jul 17 17:03:33 2000 e6HM3QG17906 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:04:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Orvis ferrules If it was me, I'd send it to the maker. So many have long passed on, butthey are still showing cane in their catalog, so surely they have someonewho can make it right ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Orvis ferrules To the List: Does anyone on this list have experience with removing Orvisferrules? I have a 2-pc. mid-60's vintage 7-1/2' rod with a factoryreplacement female ferrule that was poorly mounted (not straight andslightly loose) by them. I'd like to reset it without shipping therod back, but the ferrule has defied removal after trying gentleheating. The ferrule itself is fine. It lacks serrations, but in the lowerportion that had been covered with the wrap there are twosmall depressions that under magnification look more likesharply punched dimples rather than sunken pins. Any ideas on whatthey are? Could they be carefully drilled out to allow removal? As an alternative to removal: the heating has allowed straighteningof the ferrule, and I can no longer feel the previous rather abruptmovement when pushing on the ferrule perpendicular to the rod shaft.I'd like to assume that they used a heat setting ferrule cement andthat the heating reset the ferrule properly. Visually, the ferruleremains straight. However, with a tip mounted in the ferrule andholding my finger where the ferrule meets the cane, I can still feelsome very, very slight movement when I flex the rod. I've never heldmy finger on an unwrapped ferrule this way before, so I don't knowwhat is typical. Is this very slight movement typical and the causeof the nearly universal crack in varnished wraps at the ferrule, oris it dangerous to the rod? Thanks in advance for your help... Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us from johanyga@online.no Mon Jul 17 17:09:50 2000 e6HM9nG18145 (MET DST) Subject: Creusevaut Power Plus 8'3'' boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFF04B.1C94F200" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFF04B.1C94F200 Ingvar,I have got an original Power Plus Type Creusevaut 8'3''. I can bring =the rod to the conclave in Gimdalen,Sweden next month, I reckon you will =be there. Then you can then take the measures yourself - or, if you are =in a hurry, I can of course take the measures and have it sent to you as =soon as possible.In addition to the five rods you mentioned there was also an 8'3'' =Master Lambiotte for line 5/6. regardsJohan(Norway) ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFF04B.1C94F200 Ingvar,I have got an original Power Plus Type = measures yourself - or, if you are in a hurry, I can of course take the = and have it sent to you as soon as possible.In addition to the five rods you = was also an 8'3'' Master Lambiotte for line 5/6. regardsJohan(Norway) ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFF04B.1C94F200-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Jul 17 17:28:24 2000 e6HMSOG18737 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal Thanks to all for the useful info. I think that this offset ferrule/ parabolic design warrants some more research! It makes sense actually,you have a larger,stronger ferrule station and a stiff/small part of yourparabolic action built in. Shawn Shawn Pineo wrote: Does anyone out there know what was the lightest line Parabolic thatPezon And Micheal made?? Where can I find the taper?? I would beinterested in any thing that anyone could tell me about any of theirrods as well.TIA, Shawn from jim@seahorses.com Mon Jul 17 17:43:55 2000 e6HMhsG19255 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Mon, 17 Jul 2000 15:43:27 -0700 Subject: RE: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Importance: Normal Hi Darrell I would like to go very much, the week before I will be doingsome volunteer work on Pupfish rehab in the area, so I willbe in the area. But my Wife and Daughter will be with me, is it appropriateto bring them? (My daughter is 3 1/2 years old.)Looking fromthe pictures of last year, it looks like an adult group. Thanks for the help. Jim ForsheyAquatic Book ShopP.O. Box 2150Shingle Springs, CA 95682- 2150USA www.Seahorses.com Phone (530)622-7547 (Evenings and weekends), FAX (530)622-7157Wanted Aquarium and Ichthyology (Fish) Books, Magazines and Videos (inany Language)'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜.>.˜'ü'˜.. ,..˜'ü'˜..>>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜.. ,. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 4:32 PM Subject: RE: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Well, you might want to check out the upcoming BishopRodMakers GatheringOctober 13-15th. Here's the link... http://www.vfish.net/gwbishop.htm Be sure to subscribe to the info newsletter, this way youwill be notifiedof what's happening and any last minute changes. Tenatively we have Ray Gould, author of "Construction CaneRods" who will beour "keynote" speaker. We will have demos on some bevelers and otherequipment. It will be held at Chuck Irvine's home/workshop inBishop, CA soyou can see a real operating rod shop. His shop is the envy of all who visited last year. While the gathering is not around the corner, the nextclosest gathering isabout an extra 700 miles away or more. Regards, Darrell Leewww.vfish.net -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 3:14 PM Subject: Is anyone in the Plaverville, CA area? Hi If possible I would like to talk to someone in my area. Ihave always wantedto build a Bamboo Rod and have enjoyed reading the lists verymuch, But Ineed to see something before it sinks in. Could someone be of help? Thanks Jim ForsheyAquatic Book ShopP.O. Box 2150Shingle Springs, CA 95682- 2150USA www.Seahorses.com Phone (530)622-7547 (Evenings and weekends), FAX (530)622-7157Wanted Aquarium and Ichthyology (Fish) Books, Magazines andVideos (inany Language)'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜.>.˜'ü'˜.. ,..˜'ü'˜..>>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜.. ,. from cmj@post11.tele.dk Mon Jul 17 17:46:08 2000 e6HMk7G19386 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Sv: Gudebrods products e6HMk8G19387 As to who carries it, well, I could not get it here in Europe,so I bought it from Gudebrods. The stuff is waterbased, easy to work with and dries fairlyquick - an turns stonehard. I really like the stuff, and as I wrote,this stuff is really good at preserving colour. Could it be somekind of water based epoxy? The colour preserver is definately not the usual thing, no smellof solvents. regards,carsten from cmj@post11.tele.dk Mon Jul 17 17:50:42 2000 e6HMofG19581 (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Sv: Creusevaut Power Plus 8'3'' boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001C_01BFF052.57EB82E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BFF052.57EB82E0 Hi Johan Tapers would be welcome:-)) Where in Sweden is Gimdalen? Hopefully not too far north.Could You provde me woth data for this conclave? regards,Carsten P.S: Endelig noget for os skandinaver - vi kan jo ikke alle ligetage til staterne for at snakke fluestenger:-))) Ingvar,I have got an original Power Plus Type Creusevaut 8'3''. I can bring =the rod to the conclave in Gimdalen,Sweden next month, I reckon you will =be there. Then you can then take the measures yourself - or, if you are =in a hurry, I can of course take the measures and have it sent to you as =soon as possible.In addition to the five rods you mentioned there was also an 8'3'' =Master Lambiotte for line 5/6. regardsJohan(Norway) ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BFF052.57EB82E0 Hi Johan Tapers would be =welcome:-)) Where in Sweden is Gimdalen? Hopefully= north.Could You provde me woth data for conclave? regards,Carsten P.S: Endelig noget for os skandinaver -= ikke alle lige fluestenger:-))) Ingvar,I have got an original Power Plus = measures yourself - or, if you are in a hurry, I can of course take = measures and have it sent to you as soon as possible.In addition to the five rods you = was also an 8'3'' Master Lambiotte for line 5/6. regardsJohan(Norway) ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BFF052.57EB82E0-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Jul 17 19:36:26 2000 e6I0aNG21457 Subject: Climax lines I was just reading some fishing gear propaganda specificaly relating toClimax lines and I noticed they have a DT line with two different lineweights on the same line. Sounds interesting. Anybody used one of these? Tony/*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'. " - Yoda ('The Empire Strikes Back') /*************************************************************************/ from johnsabina@home.com Mon Jul 17 19:48:36 2000 e6I0maG21680 (InterMail vM.4.01.03.00 201-229-121) with SMTP 0700 Subject: Airbrushing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01BFF02F.F905CFA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BFF02F.F905CFA0 My first rod is nearly complete! I started with Wayne Cattanach's great =class and now must only add guides, wraps, and finish. Wayne's =instructions as to finish were very clear--build a dip tube and use spar =varnish. My problem is that I want to use the rod in three weeks and do =not have time for all of the sanding between coats. So I just applied =my fourth coat of hand rubbed tung oil on the unwrapped blank. After =three more coats, I will apply the guides and wraps. Then, some light =varnish coats on the wraps and off to Yellowstone. I will then dip the completed rod after I return. This seemed logical =to me. But while discussing varnishing by dipping with an experienced =wood worker, he suggested that dipping is a poor way to get a thin, =uniform coat of varnish. He suggested that air brushing on a spar =varnish finish might be a fundamentally better approach. Has any list =member tried this? What do you think? John Sabina ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BFF02F.F905CFA0 My first rod is nearly = with Wayne Cattanach's great class and now must only add guides, wraps, = three weeks and do not have time for all of the sanding between = Then, some light varnish coats on the wraps and off to =Yellowstone. I will then dip the completed rod = John =Sabina ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BFF02F.F905CFA0-- from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon Jul 17 20:59:00 2000 e6I1wxG22670 Subject: Re: Airbrushing In a message dated 07/17/2000 8:57:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, johnsabina@home.com writes: John,I've been spraying my rods wih an air brush for years. Itworks good for me. A lot easier than a dip tank to me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jul 17 21:16:51 2000 e6I2GmG23012 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:15:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Airbrushing I've done lots of airbrushing, only not with varnish yet. I plan to lookinto this further, by thinning small amounts to see if it gives problems.Having the mixture thin enough to spray properly is THE secret to goodairbrush work. I also intend to look into this newer high volume, low pressure spray gear,as it wastes little paint, yet covers very well. I've just obtained some real, old fashioned spar varnish. It's Epifane, madein Holland. By using an airbrush set up, I think a qt. will cover many rods. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Airbrushing My first rod is nearly complete! I started with Wayne Cattanach's greatclass and now must only add guides, wraps, and finish. Wayne's instructionsas to finish were very clear--build a dip tube and use spar varnish. Myproblem is that I want to use the rod in three weeks and do not have time hand rubbed tung oil on the unwrapped blank. After three more coats, I willapply the guides and wraps. Then, some light varnish coats on the wraps andoff to Yellowstone. I will then dip the completed rod after I return. This seemed logical tome. But while discussing varnishing by dipping with an experienced woodworker, he suggested that dipping is a poor way to get a thin, uniform coatof varnish. He suggested that air brushing on a spar varnish finish mightbe a fundamentally better approach. Has any list member tried this? Whatdo you think? John Sabina from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Jul 17 21:17:13 2000 e6I2HBG23072 19:17:13 PDT Subject: Re: Airbrushing i have a buddy that has been hand brushing and airbrushing rods for 25yrs. you won't find many rodsbetter looking than his. he says proper techique isvery important and would incourage you to practicefirst. timothy--- LECLAIR123@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 07/17/2000 8:57:14 PM EasternDaylight Time, johnsabina@home.com writes: I will then dip the completed rod after I return. This seemed logical to me. But while discussing varnishing by dipping withan experienced wood worker, he suggested that dipping is a poor way toget a thin, uniform coat of varnish. He suggested that air brushing on aspar varnish finish might be a fundamentally better approach. Has any listmember tried this? What do you think? John Sabina >>John,I've been spraying my rods wih anair brush for years. Itworks good for me. A lot easier than a dip tankto me. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Jul 17 21:17:44 2000 e6I2HfG23164 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:18:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Climax lines That's not a bad idea, is it? Where did you see it ? Web site ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Climax lines I was just reading some fishing gear propaganda specificaly relating toClimax lines and I noticed they have a DT line with two different lineweights on the same line. Sounds interesting. Anybody used one of these? Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'. "- Yoda ('The Empire Strikes Back') /*************************************************************************/ from rmoon@ida.net Mon Jul 17 22:27:48 2000 e6I3RlG24602 Subject: Re: Pezon and Micheal One other thing Shawn, Charles Ritz make a number of points about rodweight and balance. However in regard to the staggered ferrule, thefact that it is placing the weight further toward the handle gives abetter action since it prevents the rod from feeling tip heavy. Thedifference in weights between the staggared (larger) ferrule and the midstep ferrule (smaller) is to slight to be considered. Ralph P. S. If you come to the FFF Conclave the museum has a splendid Pezonand Michel rod. from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Mon Jul 17 22:29:58 2000 e6I3TvG24693 Subject: Re: Climax lines The Climax Double wt lines are a couple of years old now. I used to beable to get them but the zero interest caused my distributor to stopcarrying them. It's just too inconvenient to pull an entire line off areel to get at the other end (unless of course it's a DT and one end isused up). Most folks can afford to have two lines on two reels or twospools. Especially with all the deals flying over the internet thesedays. I'm not even sure if Climax still makes them. But it would be easyenough to find out. Regards, BobFly Supplieswww.flysupplies.homepage.com/ On Mon, 17 Jul 2000, nobler wrote: That's not a bad idea, is it? Where did you see it ? Web site ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Young" Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 7:48 PMSubject: Climax lines I was just reading some fishing gear propaganda specificaly relating toClimax lines and I noticed they have a DT line with two different lineweights on the same line. Sounds interesting. Anybody used one ofthese? Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "Do, or do not. There is no 'try'. "- Yoda ('The Empire Strikes Back') /*************************************************************************/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Tue Jul 18 00:12:11 2000 e6I5CAG26235 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:12:06 PDT rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Orvis ferrules From: "nobler" Subject: Re: Orvis ferrulesDate: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:07:30 -0500 If it was me, I'd send it to the maker. So many have long passed on, butthey are still showing cane in their catalog, so surely they have someonewho can make it right ! GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Terry Finger" Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 9:10 AMSubject: Orvis ferrules To the List: Does anyone on this list have experience with removing Orvisferrules? I have a 2-pc. mid-60's vintage 7-1/2' rod with a factoryreplacement female ferrule that was poorly mounted (not straight andslightly loose) by them. I'd like to reset it without shipping therod back, but the ferrule has defied removal after trying gentleheating. The ferrule itself is fine. It lacks serrations, but in the lowerportion that had been covered with the wrap there are twosmall depressions that under magnification look more likesharply punched dimples rather than sunken pins. Any ideas on whatthey are? Could they be carefully drilled out to allow removal? As an alternative to removal: the heating has allowed straighteningof the ferrule, and I can no longer feel the previous rather abruptmovement when pushing on the ferrule perpendicular to the rod shaft.I'd like to assume that they used a heat setting ferrule cement andthat the heating reset the ferrule properly. Visually, the ferruleremains straight. However, with a tip mounted in the ferrule andholding my finger where the ferrule meets the cane, I can still feelsome very, very slight movement when I flex the rod. I've never heldmy finger on an unwrapped ferrule this way before, so I don't knowwhat is typical. Is this very slight movement typical and the causeof the nearly universal crack in varnished wraps at the ferrule, oris it dangerous to the rod? Thanks in advance for your help... Terry Fingertfinger@services.state.mo.us Orvis didn't have any cane rods in their factory outlet store last time I heard, besides which they don't actually build them anymore! The ferruled blanks are made in New England under contract now. The blanks are ofcourse then finished like a plastic pole.A.J. ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from jojo@ipa.net Tue Jul 18 00:13:53 2000 e6I5DqG26335 Subject: Rod Part Needed boundary="----=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BFF04C.A0B8A760" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BFF04C.A0B8A760 Group,Jim Britt at Angler's Workshop is looking for the handle to a 30's era =Shakespeare bamboo bass rod. It is detachable, of bright, smooth =aluminum, and has a skip and screw reel foot fastener. The whole handle =is aluminum, grip included. Thanks! ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BFF04C.A0B8A760 Group,Jim Britt at Angler's = fastener. The whole handle is aluminum, grip =included.If anyone can help, = ------=_NextPart_000_02E5_01BFF04C.A0B8A760-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Tue Jul 18 00:20:05 2000 e6I5K4G26581 Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:20:00 PDT Subject: Tonka Queen 0 .0745 .09310 .10615 .12620 .13825 .15430 .16635 .17840 .19045 .20250 .23455 .24660 .25865 .27070 .28275 .29480 .306 Guides from tip down3.58.013.520.529.039.049.562.5 A.J.________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from caneman@clnk.com Tue Jul 18 00:35:15 2000 e6I5ZEG26916 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35)with SMTP id com for ;Tue, 18 Jul 2000 00:30:07 -0500 Subject: PHY needs. boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0216_01BFF04F.64E9F4C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01BFF04F.64E9F4C0 I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has some bad wraps. I need to find the =color to match. This is an almost golden brown. I tried Pearsalls =Antique Gold, with several different color preservers, but nothing quite =matched. Does anyone know what was used, or have any of the original =thread (or suitable substitue) that they would be willing to sell. Thanks,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01BFF04F.64E9F4C0 Antique Gold, with several different color preservers, but nothing quite = thread (or suitable substitue) that they would be willing to sell. Thanks,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01BFF04F.64E9F4C0-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Jul 18 01:21:14 2000 e6I6LBG28764 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:15:02 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Rod Makers List Serve Subject: RE: PHY needs. Hi Bob,can't help you with original thread but there is a place here in West Ozthat has heaps of silk thread in a multitude of colours (quite a fewgold/browns). They are really nice people and I could probably organisesome colour samples if you like. I can't remember the brand right now butI'll have a look when I get home tonight. Best regards Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: PHY needs. I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has some bad wraps. I need to find the colorto match. This is an almost golden brown. I tried Pearsalls Antique Gold,with several different color preservers, but nothing quite matched. Doesanyone know what was used, or have any of the original thread (or suitablesubstitue) that they would be willing to sell. Thanks,Bob from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Jul 18 04:35:19 2000 e6I9ZIG02239 Tue, 18 Jul 2000 06:35:14 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: PHY needs. boundary="------------C4225EFA41BDDC5E07A38EC5" --------------C4225EFA41BDDC5E07A38EC5 Bob,I believe the silk used on the original PHY's was BeldingCorticelli, Antique Gold. I can't remember the color # off hand but Ithink it was 3715 ??As far as a source, try Robert Milardo here on the list, heshould be able to help you out??Shawn Bob Nunley wrote: I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has some bad wraps. I need to find thecolor to match. This is an almost golden brown. I tried PearsallsAntique Gold, with several different color preservers, but nothingquite matched. Does anyone know what was used, or have any of theoriginal thread (or suitable substitue) that they would be willing tosell. Thanks,Bob --------------C4225EFA41BDDC5E07A38EC5 Bob, remember the color # off hand but I think it was 3715 ?? source,try Robert Milardo here on the list, he should be able to help you out?? Shawn Bob Nunley wrote: I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has know what was used, or have any of the original thread (or suitablesubstitue) --------------C4225EFA41BDDC5E07A38EC5-- from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Tue Jul 18 05:38:00 2000 e6IAbwG03045 Subject: Repaire II I glued the broken section with PU, and it takes a hard flex withoutshowing any strangecurve... It is almost invisible, just a dark line where the cane was completebroke at the node.The rest of the rod looks ok, so I was thinking of just varnish thesection between theferrule and the first guide. The rod is winded with black/yellow jasparsilk, with "gold"plating under spiralwinding. So I'm not going to redo it!! Any suggestions to mach the new varnish to the old "yellowish"? TIAdanny from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jul 18 06:53:25 2000 e6IBrOG04170 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 18 Jul 2000 06:54:47 -0500 Subject: Re: PHY needs. All the PHY rods I saw on the racks in stores, back in the 1950's, and thethread Paul sold me was a beige (brownish khaki), and retained that colorwith preserver. If varnish filled, in turned a rich translucent brown. Thebrand name is correct, as I still have a spool or two. The varnish filledcolor almost disappeared on his dark flame cane. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: PHY needs. Bob,I believe the silk used on the original PHY's was BeldingCorticelli, Antique Gold. I can't remember the color # off hand but Ithink it was 3715 ??As far as a source, try Robert Milardo here on the list, heshould be able to help you out??Shawn Bob Nunley wrote: I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has some bad wraps. I need to find thecolor to match. This is an almost golden brown. I tried PearsallsAntique Gold, with several different color preservers, but nothingquite matched. Does anyone know what was used, or have any of theoriginal thread (or suitable substitue) that they would be willing tosell. Thanks,Bob from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jul 18 07:08:27 2000 e6IC8QG04440 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:09:56 -0500 Subject: Re: PHY needs. The number on the spool of thread PHY used is #319. It is very close toGudebrod #832, and Pearsall's Naples silk has a color that is also veryclose. No number on their spool, but I got it from Russ at G.W.. The #832 isjust slightly darker. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: PHY needs. I have a PHY Special, 3/2 that has some bad wraps. I need to find the colorto match. This is an almost golden brown. I tried Pearsalls Antique Gold,with several different color preservers, but nothing quite matched. Doesanyone know what was used, or have any of the original thread (or suitablesubstitue) that they would be willing to sell. Thanks,Bob from destinycon@mindspring.com Tue Jul 18 07:16:09 2000 e6ICG8G04694 Subject: Re: Nickel Silver wire follow-up I haven't used this company but their prices seem to be reasonable.http://www.metalworks.com/NickelS&W.htmRegards,Gary H. At 03:44 PM 7/17/00 EDT, Canerods@aol.com wrote:All, I promised a followup on my web source of NS after I recieved my order.Well, it arrived and upon openning th epackage I found that the company had subsitutied brass wire for the 18 guage NS wire that I needed the most. The 20 gauge was NS and is fine. I've email them and I'm waiting to hear back. So at this time, I can't say that I'd give them a thumbs up - yet. Don Burns PS - If anyone else wants to try them knowing the problem that I've had - I'll publish the web site at this time: http://www.wire- sculpture.com/practicewire.htm from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Jul 18 07:29:49 2000 e6ICTmG05029 SMTPSVC(5.5.1877.357.35);Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:31:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Repaire II That's a tough one, when matching aged varnish ! maybe sustained sun light ?I did a deco wrap over the broken section, since it was mid point betweengrip and first guide. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Repaire II I glued the broken section with PU, and it takes a hard flex withoutshowing any strangecurve... It is almost invisible, just a dark line where the cane was completebroke at the node.The rest of the rod looks ok, so I was thinking of just varnish thesection between theferrule and the first guide. The rod is winded with black/yellow jasparsilk, with "gold"plating under spiralwinding. So I'm not going to redo it!! Any suggestions to mach the new varnish to the old "yellowish"? TIAdanny from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Jul 18 12:03:25 2000 e6IH3OG13936 Tue, 18 Jul 2000 10:03:16 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Trip Report: Alaska (kinda long) My first shot at a trip report, so bear with me: According to our pilot, almost no one flies into Anchorage on aclear day. Soaring over the snow-covered mountains of Alberta andBritish Columbia rewarded us with rare views, scores of miles in everydirection. from above, the appeal of the Alaskan Peninsula was almostenough to make us change our plans before we ever touched Alaskan soil.Bright sunshine at 10pm; dusk at 2am, dawn at 4am; takes somegetting used to. The need for sleep never crossed my mind until thethird day, when I crashed and slept away a good afternoon's fishing.King Salmon were never meant to be caught on a fly rod,especially one made of bamboo. My first Talachulitna King, a mediocre25-30 pound male (according the the guide), bull-dogged me for about 15minutes before he made a couple of quick runs back and forth under theboat. Little did I know that he managed to wrap the anchor line whilehe was dashing back and forth. Twenty minutes later I managed to landboth the fish and the anchor line! Now my nine weight hollow-builtbamboo rod is due for some serious down time in the shop, removing arather pronounced set from the mid-section! The next King, a small buttough 15 pounder, came on a cheap-o blank plastic (read grap&%$te) rod.Soon I repented and went back to the bent bamboo. But alas, my sinswith the graphite rod found me out. No more Kings..... just a fewjacks.Exploring Spruce Creek off of the Skwentna River introduced meto what real wilderness can be. No bears, but lots of tracks. NativeAlaskan house pits several hundred years old boggled the mind. Imagineliving through the harsh Alaskan winters as nomadic peoples did 600years ago. Caught the nicest grayling of the trip there, about 15".Nailed quite a few little rainbows, but most of the nicer fish seemed tohave followed the King Salmon further upstream.I'd never seen a glacial river until we landed the bush plane onthe Skwentna. It's silty rolling waters reminded me of the lowerMississippi River, only a little more narrow and shallow. When ourhosts at Talstar lodge told me that wasn't where we would be fishing Iwas relieved. The Talachulitna River flows into the Swentna a couplamiles upstream from the canyon section where we landed the plane. Itsquietness and beauty contrasts quite well with the brute strength of theSkwentna. Though we only fished the lower 3 or 4 miles, we learned agreat deal about its importance to Alaskan travel. The Iditarod trailskirts its banks for several miles, and is a major route for wintertransportation.Four days on the Talachulitna, the Skwentna, and Spruce Creekwas enough to whet our appetites for the second leg of the trip. Wespent the next four days on the Kenai and Russian Rivers (mostly theRussian). Big rainbows came readily to a confirmed dead drift nymphfisherman. Caught my biggest rainbow to date, a 26 incher. Came backthe next day, and caught another nearly as large. We caught sight ofour only bear of the trip, a big black male, across the Russian fromus. I was glad he wasn't as interested in me as I was in him! Soonafter he made his way downstream I realized that I had to go hisdirection to get back to camp. A few anxious moments were all thatresulted.On our way back north we stopped for lunch at Portage Glacier.Anyone planning to visit Alaska should make room on the itinerary forthat side trip. We don't get many icebergs here in Louisiana, and thatalone makes the trip worthwhile.The final leg of our trip found us at Willow Creek, about 75miles north of Anchorage. I spent the first night there with a guide,and soon learned that even a guide is no guarantee of catching fish. Ionly managed one small rainbow that first night, though I didaccidentally hook into two Kings. It's hard to hold a 25+ lb. fish on a5 weight with 4x tippet. Neither King was in any danger of beinglanded. Popped them off as quickly as possible since the season hadjust closed.Last Wednesday, three inexperienced guys rented a cataraft.None of us had ever done any real rowing, and had NO business on thatriver. An eight mile float turned into the adventures of Gilligan'sIsland. Three miles into the trip, a major sweeper cost us one oar. Aminor log jam downstream found us in real danger. When we finally gotthe boat to a midstream gravel bar, we yelled at the next raft to callour outfitters and get us some help. Thank goodness we had sense enoughto pack dry clothes and plenty of food and drinks. We huddled on theisland all afternoon, and were finally rowed home by a young man who hadpreviously paddled a canoe from New York City to Nome. In defense ofthe outfitter, they didn't know that upstream rains had caused the creekto rise considerably overnight. But they should have checked it outbefore letting us on those waters.As we left Anchorage Friday morning the temperature was 51*F. Buythe time we got to Dallas-Ft. Worth, it was 101. What a welcome back tothe South, huh?The good news: The Airflo Delta Taper line that Bob Perry suppliedme with performed flawlessly. On my 5 weight bamboo, it handledeverything from size 2 egg-sucking leeches to size 16 CDC and elk. Itfloats high, mends well, and seems to cast itself.The better news: I've got the 9 weight straightened out and readyto go again.The best news, my wife and daughter were waiting for me at theairport, the most appealing sight of the entire trip. Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Jul 18 12:03:27 2000 e6IH3QG13941 Tue, 18 Jul 2000 10:03:22 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Climax lines rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: The Climax Double wt lines are a couple of years old now. linesI bragged about a few days ago. You might want to check with him for moreinformation. Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from lblove@omniglobal.net Tue Jul 18 12:08:18 2000 e6IH8IG14307 (SMTPD32-5.05) id AF0242DE006A; Tue, 18 Jul 2000 12:08:18 -0500 Subject: payne 101 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005B_01BFF0B0.99CCA820" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BFF0B0.99CCA820 Hello List members, to rod... so which is the preferred taper? a or b... 0 .063 .057 10 .108 .101 20 .136 .13125 .157 .14530 .165 .15535 .175 .16940 .187 .18045 .213 .19850 .226 .21855 .242 .23260 .258 .24865 .280 .26770 .301 .28575 .330 .33480 .358 .35885 .358 .38290 .358 .382 tiaBrad ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BFF0B0.99CCA820 Hello List members, I was in the process of setting the forms for a two sources of the taper, I realize that rods change= b... .131 .145 .180 .198 .218 .232 .248 .285 .334 .358 .382 .382 tiaBrad ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BFF0B0.99CCA820-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Tue Jul 18 13:07:15 2000 e6II7EG16026 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Stresscurves Since I've a iMac at home, and are left out in the cold with no taperprogram to run on it, I have a math question.... I've made a spreadsheet that convert inch to mm and divide in 2 (planningform settings), it works great. But the program also has a option to makegraphs. What is the formula to calculate stress from the dimensions? TIAdanny-------Work from tklein@amgen.com Tue Jul 18 13:11:21 2000 e6IIBKG16230 smtp.amgen.com via smap (V4.2) "'fbcwin@3g.quik.com'" Subject: RE: Trip Report: Alaska (kinda long) Great report Harry! Alaska is one of those places everybody needs to visitat least once in their life. You're comment about 2am dusk and 4am dawn doesn't point out the factthatit never actually gets any darker than dusk during that 2 hour window whenthe sun is down! I spent six weeks in Alaska a few years back and went trough some of thewildest mood swings I've ever experienced due to the long days. I'd go 3 or4 days without sleep (just because it never really comes to mind to go tosleep when it's still light). Over that time, my attitude would get worseand worse until I was ready to cancel the trip and come home. Finally, I'dcrash and burn for 12 hours or so, wake up to the most beautiful scenery I'dever seen, and swear that I just might never go home again! I cycled likethat for 2 or 3 weeks before I realized what was going on and made sure Igot at least a nap every single day. Let me add one last quick funny story: I drove a pickup with a shell on it when I took my trip. When I decided itwas time to go home, I took off driving south and just drove as far aspossible between rests. I clearly remember how excited I was the first nightin six weeks that it was actually DARK when I went to sleep. I pulled off ata rest stop in the middle of nowhere in Northern Idaho and spent my normalhalf hour unloading everything from the back of my truck (camping, fishing,and backpacking gear as well as a foldable frame sea kayak and itsassociated accessories!), and setting up the wooden supports that convertedit into my bed. I climbed in, eager to finally get a dark nights sleep. As I rolled onto my back to look out the skylight on my shell, I was greeted me see while I unloaded the truck! All I could do was laugh