which is, I have to say, very much faster than a cane parabolic. Think about it: The "new" rod will, with the same #6 line, carrymore line in the air, as the tip is stiffer and wont collapse. Thebutt is forced to take more of the load and thus will bend morethan a normal, fast action carbon rod. I have tried several of these rods. Since they are very fast rods,they demand an even more precise rhytm than cane paras, andthey certainly demand more power. I could not fish with such a rod. You said it yourself: Cane Paras throw in a relaxed manner. This isdue to the cane itself, since it is a slower material for rods than Add to the faster carbon rod the use of shooting heads and double =hauling What You wont get is a rod for fishing. Must say I never tried shooting heads on a cane rod, but it We should not think, that carbon is a bad material for makinga fishing rod - it is just different. I prefer cane, but not for itsability to throw a very long line. The parabolic action is a good action, be it in a rod of eithercane or carbon. Talking cane I like it because it throwsboth a long and a short line effortlesly. If I wanted to go for Hopes this makes sence. regards,carsten Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:14 PMSubject: RE: Paras again. Continuing on the subject of paras, I have another question: I =honestly am not trying to disparage these rods but if paras throw such a =long line so effortlessly, then why do tournament casters always use =very stiff, fast action rods for both distance and accuracy? I'm really trying to p*ss anyone off with this question, just curious. Richard ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C00260.B0681120 Richard A friend of mine experiments with = used to built cane rods, but converted to building = even makesmandrils and rolls his own =blanks. He wants rods that will throw a long = doesis in principle using the butt from a = putting on a tip from a # 7 or #8. Thus he converts a = parabolic action,which is, I have to say, very much = cane parabolic. Think about it: The "new" rod will, = #6 line, carrymore line in the air, as the tip is = wont collapse. Thebutt is forced to take more of the load= will bend morethan a normal, fast action carbon =rod. I have tried several of these rods. = very fast rods,they demand an even more preciserhytm = paras, andthey certainly demand more power. I = with such a rod. You said it yourself: Cane Paras throw= manner. This isdue to the cane itself, since it is a = material for rods thanmodern carbon. Add to the faster carbon rod the use of= heads and double haulingand You will get a rod, that really = into the horizon. fishing. Must say I never tried shooting heads = rod, but itwould be something different, I am = We should not think, that carbon is a = a fishing rod - it is just different. I = cane, but not for itsability to throw a very long =line. The parabolic action is a good action, = rod of eithercane or carbon. Talking cane I like it = throwsboth a long and a short line = wanted to go for = opt para. Hopes this makessence. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Richard Nantel Sent: Wednesday, August 09, = PMSubject: RE: Paras again. Continuing on the subject of paras, I have= question: I honestly am not trying to disparage these rods but if = such a long line so effortlessly, then why do tournament casters = accuracy? curious. Richard ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C00260.B0681120-- from Rcolo@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 9 18:07:25 2000 e79N7PG28133 Subject: [Fwd: Parabolic rods] This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- 8B5F2013C788B0CF151470C8 --------------8B5F2013C788B0CF151470C8 Subject: Re: Parabolic rods I think what you gain in relaxed distance and smooth presentation you mayloose a bit in high line speed accuracy and break you back distance. A fasttip dry fly action is probably more accurate and a very stiff rod canprobably give you more distance but I would not want to be fishing one allday in either situation. I have a parabolic Per Brandin that is a dream forfishing but would not be the most accurate in a dry fly event. I feel theparabolics are best for fishing and the specialty rods best for casting.(i.e. in a tournament)my 2 cents.....Rich Colonobler wrote: I have had suspicions in this direction. Thanks,GMA----- Original Message ----- From: "Carsten Jorgensen" Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 11:19 AMSubject: Sv: Parabolic rods The best all around rod is, IMHO, the Para 15.And if You dont want a rod with two different tips,Waynes "The Force" - a VERY close relativeof the Para 15. No rod will do everything perfect, but the Para 15/ForceI've used for but big streamers and #18 dry's - and all inbetween. It has never let me down. I must say, though,it does not have the finesse of the Perfectionist. But itwill reach out in a relaxed manner, where one has touse more power with the Perfectionist. And so it goes,on and on and on and..... just my 2 cents, regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: nobler Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 12:37 AMSubject: Re: Parabolic rods Yes, I was sure of that ! Which could be called the best all around ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "timothy troester" Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 5:28 PMSubject: Re: Parabolic rods i would say any one of those four will do the job.timothy --- nobler wrote:Have any of you ever compared the PHY Driggs,Perfectionist, Martha Marie,and his Para #15 ? I've only his Midge for trout,and wonder which is thebest all around, of these others. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Shawn Pineo" Cc: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 1:37 PMSubject: Re: Parabolic rods Richard,I haven't finished a Driggs yet but Idearly love thePerfectionist. It was the first taper I built andis the only rod I havemanaged to keep! It is a great all round rod. Iteven makes a poor casterlikeme look good ;^) Shawn Richard Nantel wrote: Bob, Thanks for your reply. I haven't totally givenup on parabolics yet.Thereare just too many people raving about them(especially on this list). Isuspect I just haven't found the perfect placeto fish one yet. Igenerallyfish:1. huge fast rivers where I need to wade deepand where long rods andlongcasts are required (in fact a spey rod is idealthere);2. northern lakes with full sinking line (I findstiffer butt rodsbetterat lifting full sinking lines from the water)3. or small freestone streams where shortprecise casts are needed(where afast action rod like a Granger 7 ft reallysing). I am presently thinking of building one ofCharles Ritz's tapers. Nowthere's a rod that will be REALLY parabolic! I'm also torn between building a PHY Drigg's orPerfectionist. How wouldthe list vote on a choice between these two? Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of Bob NunleySent: Monday, August 07, 2000 4:54 PM DNHayashida@aol.com;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Parabolic rods Richard.Most of the waters I fish don't reallyrequire castoutside the 25 to 45foot range. Never tried a steeple castoutside of thatrange... don't knowthat I want too! LOL Would be tooembarrassed trying tountangle myself infront of observers.Actually, I don't have any problem keepingthe line lowto the waterwithout getting it into the water, but thenagain, my tapersaren't "pure"parabolic. They are pretty quick throw atight loop andmoderately goodline speed. That line speed and momentum, Iguess, keeps meout of thewater pretty well. The 6' 4 wt that Mike Stalked about thatI had at theFFF Clave is great for float fishing. I alsouse this samerod (well, onejust like it) to sneak up on fish in placeswhere you have tocrawl in,shoot a high backcast to stay out of the weedsand brush, yetlay a linegently on the water. I guess it's a matter ofwhat you getused to and I'mused to that second lever in para's so I'vebecome accustomedto castingthem low to the water and keeping myself outof trouble. Bob ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.http://invites.yahoo.com/ --------------8B5F2013C788B0CF151470C8-- from Canerods@aol.com Wed Aug 9 18:19:20 2000 e79NJJG28554 Subject: Re: Chinese bamboo rods Yes - I got three posts. Don Burns from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 9 18:48:22 2000 e79NmLG29104 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: RE: Paras again. This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_r7hVsw036SzpaVqNWZ0Keg) Thanks to all who sent me some very good responses to the paras andtournament casting question. I've decided to give paras a second chance. Ihave felt so-so about my para 15 (heavy tip) I built last winter but intendto build the dry fly tip this month to see if I like the rod any better.Also, I'm considering building a Charles Ritz 8'2" taper, staggerredferrule and all. Either before or after the PHY Perfectionist. So many rods, so little time. Richard-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:14 PM Subject: RE: Paras again. Continuing on the subject of paras, I have another question: I honestlyam not trying to disparage these rods but if paras throw such a long lineso effortlessly, then why do tournament casters always use very stiff, fastaction rods for both distance and accuracy? I'm really trying to p*ss anyone off with this question, just curious. Richard --Boundary_(ID_r7hVsw036SzpaVqNWZ0Keg) to all who sent me some very good responses to the paras and tournament = about my para 15 (heavy tip) I built last winter but intend to build the = tip this month to see if I like the rod any better. Also, I'm = building a Charles Ritz 8'2" taper, staggerred ferrule and all. Either = after the PHY Perfectionist. many rods, so little time. Richard NantelSent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:14 = again.Continuing on the subject of paras, I have= question: I honestly am not trying to disparage these rods but if = such a long line so effortlessly, then why do tournament casters = accuracy? curious. Richard --Boundary_(ID_r7hVsw036SzpaVqNWZ0Keg)-- from pmgoodwin@earthlink.com Wed Aug 9 19:47:14 2000 e7A0lEG00147 RAA11060 Subject: test from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Wed Aug 9 20:30:39 2000 e7A1UcG01054 Subject: Re: Chinese bamboo rods At 02:42 PM 08/09/2000 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:I think they are browsing web sites for Cane Rods in the USA. Doeseveryonewho got emails from them have a web site? They got me but this email address isn't on any of my websites. They aredefinitely using Rodmakers to gather email addresses for spamming. Regards, BobFly Supplies from channer1@rmi.net Wed Aug 9 21:05:31 2000 e7A25UG01749 Subject: Re: Chinese bamboo rods Canerods@aol.com wrote: Yes - I got three posts. Don Burns Gee, now I feel left out(not really), I didn't get a thing from them.Anyone suppose they should be taken more seriously than You Know Who? Ialso wonder what the long range effect on the availability of ourfavorite raw material might be. Gawd, something else to worry about, Imust need to go fishing or something.John from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Aug 10 07:12:04 2000 e7ACC3G08936 Thu, 10 Aug 2000 07:13:39 -0500 Subject: Fw: Prices in U.S.A. Here's a reply I received this morning on the Chinese rod prices. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Prices in U.S.A. Hello GMA, It is great pleasure to Know you.Our rod is USD250 each and rod case isUSD23 each.the shipping dy airmail is USD40 (one rod and one case).and theshipping by ship is USD15 (one rod and one case) Sorry for my poor English. We wish can doing some business together with you. Best Regards; Zhu You Xin May I have prices of your fly rods, and cases please, in U.S. dollars,anddelivered in U.S.A. ? GMA ----------------------------------------------- 163EÝxOOE*ì£oÇúèIÖAAEmail˜I£http://www.163.net from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Thu Aug 10 08:07:13 2000 e7AD7CG09971 Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:07:12 -0400 Subject: RE: Chinese bamboo rods I don't have a web site and I don't make rods professionally (yet), but Iwas contacted by them. At 02:42 PM 08/09/2000 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:I think they are browsing web sites for Cane Rods in the USA. Doeseveryonewho got emails from them have a web site? Bob from dickay@alltel.net Thu Aug 10 08:23:04 2000 e7ADN3G10774 HAA04510; Subject: Re: Chinese bamboo rods Organization: John, I'm with you . I feel left out. They must have figured out what aprocrastinator that I am. LOLI was wondering if they might end up being sold under the "Bastard" flag as"Made in Yausa". That way he could really cut his labor costs.Dick Fuhrman from Fallcreek9@aol.com Thu Aug 10 09:27:03 2000 e7AER3G12909 Subject: Re: Chinese bamboo rods Has anyone asked for a sample? RTyree from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 10 12:46:24 2000 e7AHkNG20179 Subject: Herter's Taper Collection All,I've added the collection of tapers from Herter's book to my website.Other stuff, too. Enjoy.--Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from rmoon@ida.net Thu Aug 10 15:13:59 2000 e7AKDwG24668 Subject: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I was asked to do a renovation of a clunker rod. The only reason I tookthe job, is that it was once a decent rod. It is a Heddon #20 BillStanley's Favorite. The Tip is missing, but the Butt and mid are infair condition. The rod was made between 1934-1939, and thanks toSinclair I have all the information I need except for the tipdiameters. I can probably Hokey up a tip, but I would really prefer tomake a matching tip. Anbody got the tapers? It is an 9' rod. Ralph from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Aug 10 15:31:25 2000 e7AKVOG25602 Subject: Trip Report Just got back from the Conclave in Montana. I hadthe pleasure of meeting some of the list memberslike Ralph Moon, Bob Nunley, Hank Woolman, MikeShaffer, lurker Dennis Conrad and others whosenames I can't remember. There were some beautifulrods there. Due to my tying commitments I couldnot have the time at the booth that I would ofliked to spend there.Dennis Conrad has a hackle ranch and brought mesome samples of his feathers, they are firstclass.The booth did draw a lot of attention, that showsthere is a lot of interest in Bamboo.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Aug 10 16:04:05 2000 e7AL45G27142 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Bill Stanley"s Favorite You'll need to measure the OD of the male ferrules and tell us the diameter.They made several tapers 1 3/4, 2, 2 3/4 and 3F was their designations forthe 9' rods. Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I was asked to do a renovation of a clunker rod. The only reason I tookthe job, is that it was once a decent rod. It is a Heddon #20 BillStanley's Favorite. The Tip is missing, but the Butt and mid are infair condition. The rod was made between 1934-1939, and thanks toSinclair I have all the information I need except for the tipdiameters. I can probably Hokey up a tip, but I would really prefer tomake a matching tip. Anbody got the tapers? It is an 9' rod. Ralph from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 19:38:34 2000 e7B0cXG03671 ;Fri, 11 Aug 2000 00:38:28 +0000 Subject: Re: PHY Driggs, a 4 or a 5wt.? Thanks to everyone for the responses. I thinks I'll make me one... Dennis Haftel, Dennis J, CSCIO wrote: All, The Rodmakers' site taper archive has the PHY Driggs listed as a 5 weight.In Frank Stetzer's taper archive it's a 4 weight. Can anyone shed somelight on this subject for me? TIA, Dennis from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Thu Aug 10 19:42:41 2000 e7B0geG03951 Subject: Agate Tiptops Anyone have a couple of agate/agatine tiptops for sale or trade? Sz 4. Thanks, Bob from jojo@ipa.net Thu Aug 10 21:33:39 2000 e7B2XcG07006 Subject: Fw: Chinese bamboo rods I haven't received any solicitations regarding the rods, but I did recentlyreceive a chain e-mail of sorts wanting me to send $ 5.00 to someone inCanada.The name at the bottom of the 3-name list, the person who assumedly sentitto me, was from Singapore. Anyone else get anything similar? I, practically,almost never get spammed. from mrmac@tcimet.net Thu Aug 10 21:35:43 2000 e7B2ZhG07144 Subject: King Salmon rod size Hey list - Salmon time is soon approaching here in Michigan, and it hasme thinking about that it would be nice to have a salmon size rod amongthe collection for next year. Most of the fishing around here is forkings, which get pretty hefty, and the "usual" graphite is somethinglike a 9', 8wt, 9wt, or bigger, I guess. There were some recent tapersposted for much longer rods, 11 - 14', that were described as salmonrods, and I was thinking that maybe a big honker like that might be coolto have, but might be kinda heavy for a day's fishing. What do you guysrecommend for subtle, sophisticated, "chuck and duck" type salmonizing the doublebuilt approach for more beef? There's a Leonard on Ebay right now and it has two mids and three tips.Do you think it would be a good idea to go that way and rotate piecesafter each fish? I've only been salmon fishing once, but I can seewhere they could put a good set into most any rod, and I haven't seenenough salmon rods to know if the multiple mid is typical approach or isjust special for that one rod. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions. mac from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Aug 10 21:38:53 2000 e7B2cqG07301 Thu, 10 Aug 2000 21:36:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite Did they come in only one action ? Sorry, I've not come across one of the#20's. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I was asked to do a renovation of a clunker rod. The only reason I tookthe job, is that it was once a decent rod. It is a Heddon #20 BillStanley's Favorite. The Tip is missing, but the Butt and mid are infair condition. The rod was made between 1934-1939, and thanks toSinclair I have all the information I need except for the tipdiameters. I can probably Hokey up a tip, but I would really prefer tomake a matching tip. Anbody got the tapers? It is an 9' rod. Ralph from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 10 21:58:29 2000 e7B2wSG07880 Thu, 10 Aug 2000 23:58:22 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Fw: Chinese bamboo rods Jojo,was that $5 Canadian funds or US??;^)Shawn Jojo DeLancier wrote: I haven't received any solicitations regarding the rods, but I did recentlyreceive a chain e-mail of sorts wanting me to send $ 5.00 to someone inCanada.The name at the bottom of the 3-name list, the person who assumedly to me, was from Singapore. Anyone else get anything similar? I, practically,almost never get spammed. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 10 22:00:02 2000 e7B302G07998 Thu, 10 Aug 2000 23:59:56 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I have a taper for a Bill Stanley but it is a 2 piece 7 foot 3/4 wt. Shawn nobler wrote: Did they come in only one action ? Sorry, I've not come across one of the#20's. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Ralph W Moon" Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 3:13 PMSubject: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I was asked to do a renovation of a clunker rod. The only reason I tookthe job, is that it was once a decent rod. It is a Heddon #20 BillStanley's Favorite. The Tip is missing, but the Butt and mid are infair condition. The rod was made between 1934-1939, and thanks toSinclair I have all the information I need except for the tipdiameters. I can probably Hokey up a tip, but I would really prefer tomake a matching tip. Anbody got the tapers? It is an 9' rod. Ralph from mep@mint.net Fri Aug 11 04:41:42 2000 e7B9ffG13136 Subject: [Fwd: tony - Morgan mill] Thanks Guys!!! Mike Sue wrote: OK!!! that's IT!!! You guys are poor excuses for a human being! So THIS iswhatmen talk about with each other!!!! I forbid you,Michael, to hang out withtheseprehistoric animals any more!!!Love, Sueps - I'll remember this when you ask me what I did today...I'll stop doing itandyou'll know what i do!! Tim Klein wrote: My wife was standing right over my shoulder when this message hit myscreen!Are you guys trying to get me kicked outta here? Tim I have been trying to explain that for years to my wife when she iswashing dishes and scrubbing the bathroom. Very tedious andrepetitiouswork. Something she is genetically programed to do. Marty from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Aug 11 05:50:27 2000 e7BAoQG13784 (204.186.33.87) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite Does the butt section have the ferrule number. I have a #2 ferrulemodel I can mike. It's a light action model. Marty Did they come in only one action ? Sorry, I've not come across one of the#20's. GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Ralph W Moon" Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 3:13 PMSubject: Bill Stanley"s Favorite I was asked to do a renovation of a clunker rod. The only reason I tookthe job, is that it was once a decent rod. It is a Heddon #20 BillStanley's Favorite. The Tip is missing, but the Butt and mid are infair condition. The rod was made between 1934-1939, and thanks toSinclair I have all the information I need except for the tipdiameters. I can probably Hokey up a tip, but I would really prefer tomake a matching tip. Anbody got the tapers? It is an 9' rod. Ralph from bob@downandacross.com Fri Aug 11 08:44:33 2000 e7BDiWG17274 Subject: Re: Herter's Taper Collection --=====================_12118668==_.ALT Reed:Great info. I have been thinking about building a casting or spinning rod and some Cross tapers! Funny that the Sylph is a 7' and mine is 7'6." I need to convert these from 6" centers and try some.Thanks for the great site.Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_12118668==_.ALT Reed:Great info. I have been thinking about building a casting orspinning rod for my nieces, and the tapers here are nice. Wow, also a twohanded rod, and some Cross tapers! Funny that the Sylph is a 7' and mineis 7'6." I need to convert these from 6" centers and trysome.Thanks for the great site.Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_12118668==_.ALT-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Aug 11 09:00:38 2000 e7BE0aG18152 Subject: Barry Kling Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C003EF.3F39E600 Hello Barry Yes, Barry, I think that is about what I was trying to say. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C003EF.3F39E600 Hello Barry Yes, Barry, I think that is about = trying to say. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their = realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Thoreau ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C003EF.3F39E600-- from Collins@dccnet.com Fri Aug 11 09:44:47 2000 e7BEikG20166 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 07:40:53 -0700 Subject: Culm Usage I have a question on which bamboo culms should be used for what kind ofrods.When I got my last shipment of bamboo some of the culms were heaver andthe dark power fiber layer was quite noticeably thicker. I am about to pick up a bale of new culms so I expect that I will see the same.My next two rods are going to be a Dickerson 8013 and Steelhead rod (maybe a guide) So, is it better to...Use the heaver culms for heaver rods as the power fibers go all the way through the rod segments,and use the lighter culms for lighter rods for the same reason,or...is it better to use heavy culms for light weight rods as they need strong power fibers for the thin segments,and the heavier rods could do with being lighter. (some even hollow them out) from mschaffer@mindspring.com Fri Aug 11 09:54:38 2000 e7BEsbG20701 Subject: Help needed with Leroy set This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C00382.89372BE0 Guys,Yesterday I was given what appears to be a fairly extensive Leroy set in =a wooden box. My problem is twofold, first, does anyone know where I can =get my hands on an instruction manual , and secondly, what pens can be =used with this set? The set contains what appears to be six different little pen type tips, =but again, I'm in the dark on this newest toy. Any help would be mucho appreciated, and if you could contact me off =list, we won't take up any more bandwidth than I just have !! Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C00382.89372BE0 Guys,Yesterday I was given what appears to= extensive Leroy set in a wooden box. My problem is twofold, first, does = know where I can get my hands on an instruction manual , and secondly, = can be used with this set?The set contains what appears tobe = different little pen type tips, but again, I'm in the dark on this = toy.Any help would be mucho = could contact me off list, we won't take up any more bandwidth than I = !! Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C00382.89372BE0-- from brookie@frii.com Fri Aug 11 10:07:42 2000 e7BF7fG21288 Subject: Tom Moran rods Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the Tom Moran rods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. He reminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped and pasted.*G* ) from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Fri Aug 11 10:16:47 2000 e7BFGjG21708 Subject: Lettering rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0291_01C00386.43FD0410 What do others use to write on the cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0291_01C00386.43FD0410 cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0291_01C00386.43FD0410-- from dati@selway.umt.edu Fri Aug 11 11:29:57 2000 e7BGTvG24757 Subject: planing form I am looking for a used planing form. If someone has one for sale pleasecontact me off list. I don't have the tools and time to make meown. Thanks,Darin Law ******************************* Darin J. Law **** School of Forestry **** University of Montana **** Missoula, MT 59812 **** **** (406) 243-2472 ******************************* from leroyt@involved.com Fri Aug 11 11:38:51 2000 e7BGckG25144 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61049U4500L450S0V35) "Rodmakers Listserv" Subject: RE: Lettering rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C00378.70CCC240 I have been using a Rotring Rapidoliner, with the disposable cartridges.Usual disclaimers. Leroy.........-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AM Subject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C00378.70CCC240 disclaimers. Leroy......... GoodwinSent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 Rodmakers ListservSubject: Lettering =rodsWhat do others use to write on cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C00378.70CCC240-- from mbiondo@wuacn.wustl.edu Fri Aug 11 12:43:02 2000 e7BHh1G28439 Subject: SRG2000 (was Leroy Lettering) Mike Schaffer Sayeth... Guys, Yesterday I was given what appears to be a fairly extensive Leroyset in a wooden box. ... Actually, listmember Morten Lovstad gave a very nice demo on lettering rodsusing Leroy lettering sets. Perhaps we can convince Morten into an encore And speaking of the SRG2000...the Southern Rodmakers Gathering 2000, inMountain Home, Arkansas is shaping up nicely. If you can make it, you surewon't be disappointed. The dates are October 26th thru the 28th. Moreinfo and pictures from prior SRG's can be found at:http://www.curro.net/srg99/Check it out... If you are already sure you will be attending SRG2000, please registerearly. If you have ever tried to plan a function for a large group ofpeople, you know how much it helps the planning process to haveregistrations in early. Registrations can be sent directly to me at theaddress below. Thanks guys... Mike Biondo9622 Mansfield Dr.St. Louis, MO 63132 from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Aug 11 12:47:14 2000 e7BHlDG28676 0000 (204.186.33.23) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Lettering rods The new gel writers are cheap and work great. Marty What do others use to write on the cane? Paul from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Aug 11 14:32:48 2000 e7BJWmG02572 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: spinning rods Friends,I am thinking of building a short light action spinning rod from one of the excellent tapers available out there. What I waswondering was what others experiences have been /suggestions with theserods.I am planning on using it in the woods for small brookies.Comments?? Shawn from rsgould@cmc.net Fri Aug 11 14:49:03 2000 e7BJn2G03083 "Rodmakers Listserv" Subject: Re: Lettering rods Organization: GOULD This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C00392.63908CA0 Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a =very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the =best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black =india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to =every issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it =makes a big difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C00392.63908CA0 Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones = Castell TG with a very fine point to get a really thin line. But you = like the best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using = india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to = issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a = difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 = AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C00392.63908CA0-- from dellc@nextdim.com Fri Aug 11 15:29:02 2000 e7BKT1G04462 ,"and Collecting" Subject: Re: RODMAKERS digest 81 Hi Ralph, I have a Bill Stanley that I can mike for you. It is a 9' rod, Idont know if that model was made in other lengths or not? I will send themto you direct. ----- Original Message ----- Dell & Marie Coppockflyfisher@nextdim.commec@nextdim.comeboard.com/dellceboard.com/showcase ;"and Collecting" ;"and Collecting" Subject: RODMAKERS digest 81 RODMAKERS Digest 81 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Bill Stanley"s Favorite 2) Trip Report 3) RE: Bill Stanley"s Favorite 4) Re: PHY Driggs, a 4 or a 5wt.? 5) Agate Tiptops 6) Fw: Chinese bamboo rods 7) King Salmon rod size 8) Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite 9) Re: Fw: Chinese bamboo rods 10) Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite 11) [Fwd: tony - Morgan mill] 12) Re: Bill Stanley"s Favorite 13) Re: Herter's Taper Collection 14) Barry Kling 15) Culm Usage 16) Help needed with Leroy set 17) Tom Moran rods 18) Lettering rods 19) planing form 20) RE: Lettering rods 21) SRG2000 (was Leroy Lettering) 22) Re: Lettering rods 23) spinning rods 24) Re: Lettering rods from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Aug 11 15:47:06 2000 e7BKl5G05175 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 15:45:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Culm Usage I'd want all the power fibers I could get, regardless ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Culm Usage I have a question on which bamboo culms should be used for what kind ofrods.When I got my last shipment of bamboo some of the culms were heaverandthedark power fiber layer was quite noticeably thicker. I am about to pick upa bale of new culms so I expect that I will see the same.My next two rods are going to be a Dickerson 8013 and Steelhead rod(maybea guide) So, is it better to...Use the heaver culms for heaver rods as the power fibers go all the waythrough the rod segments,and use the lighter culms for lighter rods for the same reason,or...is it better to use heavy culms for light weight rods as they needstrong power fibers for the thin segments,and the heavier rods could do with being lighter. (some even hollowthemout) from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Fri Aug 11 16:42:03 2000 e7BLg2G06843 QAA28385 for ; Fri, 11 Aug 2000 16:42:02 Subject: Re: Herter's Taper Collection such I've added the 3 Cross rods from Herter's book, that Reed puton his informative web page, to my Hexrod webpage:http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/Tapers/index.htmlThe bassbug rod has an unusual taper/stress curve, adding a lotof wood fast about 20-30 inches from the tip, then leveling out. Besides these, there have been a lot of rod tapers posted to the listin the last few months that I've added: a Young, a Leonard, a coupleP&Ms and a Hardy, and some others. I also found a couple old ones I missed before, including a Hardy Palakona CC de France, that wasdiscussed again.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Fri, 11 Aug 2000, bob maulucci wrote: Reed:Great info. I have been thinking about building a casting or spinning rod and some Cross tapers! Funny that the Sylph is a 7' and mine is 7'6." I need to convert these from 6" centers and try some.Thanks for the great site.Bob Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from tklein@amgen.com Fri Aug 11 16:42:11 2000 e7BLgAG06848 Subject: RE: Culm Usage I've always used the culms with the thinner ring of power fibers for lighterrods and thicker for heavier rods. Part of evaluating a culm for aparticular rod is making sure the power fibers are deep enough, but Iwouldn't waste a culm with a very thick fiber ring on a light rod. If thefiber ring is any deeper that the strip height, you're just planing theexcess away.-- -Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 2:51 PM Subject: Re: Culm Usage I'd want all the power fibers I could get, regardless ! GMA from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Aug 11 17:16:46 2000 e7BMGjG07755 +0200 Subject: Sv: Culm Usage e7BMGkG07756 Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don't need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of the power fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter of the rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten from bob@downandacross.com Fri Aug 11 17:28:58 2000 e7BMSvG08086 Subject: Re: Tom Moran rods --=====================_14408085==_.ALT Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote:Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the Tom Moranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. He reminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped and pasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_14408085==_.ALT Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the"bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote:Sorry, I deleted the email from the person whoposted re the Tom Moran heard from my reminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snippedand pasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_14408085==_.ALT-- from bob@downandacross.com Fri Aug 11 17:31:08 2000 e7BMV7G08240 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Sv: Culm Usage --=====================_14538008==_.ALT where did all that weight come from?" Interesting to cut down the tip top.= Never thought of that.Bob At 12:17 AM 8/12/00 +0200, Carsten J=F8rgensen wrote:Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don=B4t need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of the power fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_14538008==_.ALT Isn't it amazing when you tape on guides to test cast. It's like,"Wow, where did all that weight come from?" Interesting to cutdown the tip top. Never thought of that.Bob At 12:17 AM 8/12/00 +0200, Carsten J=F8rgensen wrote:Consider this: stretched. Therefore,You don=B4t need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of the powerfibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected, ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet ofthesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter of the rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_14538008==_.ALT-- from brewer@teleport.com Fri Aug 11 17:32:00 2000 e7BMVxG08370 0000 (216.26.32.219) Subject: Fw: Lettering rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C003AA.0AB79160 I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, but =tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. Subject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a =very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the =best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black =india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to =every issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it =makes a big difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C003AA.0AB79160 I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the = store, but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very =well. From:Ray Gould= Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones = Castell TG with a very fine point to get a really thin line. But you = like the best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using = india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to = issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a = difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 = AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C003AA.0AB79160-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Aug 11 17:37:56 2000 e7BMbtG08718 +0200 Subject: Sv: Sv: Culm Usage This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C003F5.CEB1BF00 About shortening the tip-top: Try weighing thesawn-off piece and compare it to the weight of You=B4will be surprised. regards,carsten Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 12:27 AMSubject: Re: Sv: Culm Usage Isn't it amazing when you tape on guides to test cast. It's like, ="Wow, where did all that weight come from?" Interesting to cut down the =tip top. Never thought of that.Bob At 12:17 AM 8/12/00 +0200, Carsten J=F8rgensen wrote: Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don=B4t need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of the power =fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of =thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter of = the rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten Bob Maulucci==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C003F5.CEB1BF00 About shortening the tip-top: Try = thesawn-off piece and compare it to the = ofthe difference between a #4 and a #5 = You=B4will besurprised. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- maulucci = Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000= AMSubject: Re: Sv: Culm =UsageIsn't it amazing when you tape on guides to test cast. = like, "Wow, where did all that weight come from?" Interesting to cut = tip top. Never thought of that.BobAt 12:17 AM 8/12/00 = Carsten J=F8rgensen wrote:Consider this:When a rodbends, = side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the = powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute = nothing to the power of the rod.So, IMHO, making a thin rod = heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters = quality of the power fibers,or to be more precise, the density = neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, = ferrule)to the rod.I apply only a thin coat of varnish = rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, = varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make = short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 = the diameter of the rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the = starts where thefemale ferrule stops.This is because = weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C003F5.CEB1BF00-- from tklein@amgen.com Fri Aug 11 17:44:03 2000 e7BMi3G08970 Subject: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures on thispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, I got amuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also had somemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybe excesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether the darkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones pictured onthis webpage?---Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 4:25 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Tom Moran rods Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote: Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the TomMoran rods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. Hereminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped andpasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Fri Aug 11 17:51:39 2000 e7BMpcG09267 "Rodmaker's List" Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods --=====================_15770240==_.ALT Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they are pretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message -----From: Ray Gould Rodmakers ListservSent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message -----From: Paul Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_15770240==_.ALT Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they arepretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:I used to use India Ink with afine tip pen from the craft store, but tried a gel pen on my last two. Itworks very well. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray Gould Rodmakers Listserv Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a veryfine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the bestis just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink.However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue,but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a bigdifference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Goodwin Listserv Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on thecane? Paul Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_15770240==_.ALT-- from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Aug 11 18:04:57 2000 e7BN4uG09758 (204.186.33.101) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods Hi Tim, When you use straight Tung Oil you have to add a dryer such asJapan Dryer. Pure Tung takes forever to dry. I have the best luck with aTung based product called Waterlox.Also, when using white silk make sureyour hands a very clean and clean them periodically while wrapping.Theoil from your hands will foul the silk. Thin the first coat of sparbefore coating the wrap so you get even penetration. Marty I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures on thispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, I got amuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also hadsomemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybe excesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether the darkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones pictured onthis webpage?---Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 4:25 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Tom Moran rods Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote: Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the TomMoranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. Hereminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped andpasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from jfreeman@cyberport.com Fri Aug 11 18:12:23 2000 e7BNCMG10059 Subject: Re: Tom Moran rods Ok folks, Is that just tipping on the guides or is there a clear wrap between? Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tom Moran rods Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the Tom Moranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. He reminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped andpasted.*G* ) from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Aug 11 18:36:19 2000 e7BNaIG10562 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 01:35:39 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Lettering rods This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3048975326_146002_MIME_Part I`ve been using India Ink with a fine tip pen, it works ok, but sometimesthe inkfollows the fibre (terms??) of the cane, and makes the lettering a bitfuzzy. I think its because I`ve a very thin sharp penpoint and it scrach the polishedsurface..... I`ve consider some of the many "modern" pens on the market. But afterlooking atsome of my photographic prints that have been hanging on the wall a coupleof years,signed with feltpen, the lettering have faded. I have bought a new penwhitch is "industrial permanent" I have tried on some new print....... BTW what is a Leroy pen? regardsdanny -------Work Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they arepretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, but trieda gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a veryfinepoint to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the best isjust a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink.However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue, butthere's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big differenceto the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --MS_Mac_OE_3048975326_146002_MIME_Part Re: Lettering rods I`ve been using India Ink with a fine tip pen, it works ok, but sometimes t=he inkfollows the fibre (terms??) of the cane, and makes the lettering a bit fuzz=y. I think its because I`ve a very thin sharp penpoint and it scrach the polished surf=ace..... market.=But after looking atsome of my photographic prints that have been hanging on the wall a couple=of years, n whitch is "industrial permanent" I have tried on some new print....... BTW what is a Leroy pen? regardsdanny Danny Twang+47 35 55 80 24GSM 908 94 054 From: bob maulucci Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:48:11 -0400 "Rodm= Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they arepret=ty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the crafts=tore, but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message ----- Rodm= Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the CastellTG=with a very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like =the best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black indi=a ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to everyissue=, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big diffe=rence to the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message ----- sp;Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write onthe cane? Paul Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross=.com --MS_Mac_OE_3048975326_146002_MIME_Part-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Aug 11 19:17:48 2000 e7C0HlG11400 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: RE: Culm Usage "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" All good points, Carsten. I also think Charles Ritz had the right idea inmoving the ferrule lower down the rod instead of placing it in the centeron a 2-piece rod. This reduces the weight on the tip. I think the slightlylonger rod tube such a rod requires is a small trade off for what isprobably a gain in performance. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu JorgensenSent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:18 PM Subject: Sv: Culm Usage Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don't need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of thepower fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Aug 11 19:40:05 2000 e7C0e4G11783 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:39:58 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods Tim,besides your tung drying, try heating and thinning your spar forwraps.That should get the desired effect for you.Shawn "Klein, Tim" wrote: I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures on thispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, I got amuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also hadsomemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybe excesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether the darkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones pictured onthis webpage?---Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 4:25 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Tom Moran rods Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote: Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the TomMoranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. Hereminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped andpasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Aug 11 19:47:56 2000 e7C0ltG12006 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 19:49:30 -0500 "Rodmaker's List" Subject: Re: Lettering rods What are these "Gel Pens" ? Do they have a brand name. Are they in artstores or office supply's ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Fw: Lettering rods I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, but trieda gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a veryfine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the best isjust a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink.However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue, butthere's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big differenceto the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message -----From: Paul Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul from channer1@rmi.net Fri Aug 11 20:04:35 2000 e7C14YG12370 Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods "Klein, Tim" wrote: I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures on thispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, I got amuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also hadsomemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybe excesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether the darkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones pictured onthis webpage?---Tim*G* ) Tim;I have found on invisible repair wraps that they turn out the clearestif I dip the rod with the wrap on first, then build up the varnish coatif it needs it afterwards, let the rod soak in the varnish for a while.You might get a drip from the guides, but if you wait a good bit most ofit should drain out, the rest should be easy to sand down before thenext coat.John from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Aug 11 20:09:19 2000 e7C19HG12580 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 20:07:37 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods I get nice clear wraps, and prefer them translucent at least. I just applyas many thin coats as needed, to get the wraps totally filled. I start watersanding the wraps after about the 4th or 5th coat. I also wrap right ontobare cane, but it should do the same if the blank were varnished beforewrapping. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures onthispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, I gotamuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also hadsomemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybe excesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether the darkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones pictured onthis webpage?---Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 4:25 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Tom Moran rods Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo" part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote: Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the TomMoranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. I heard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. Hereminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snipped andpasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Aug 11 20:14:40 2000 e7C1EcG12778 Fri, 11 Aug 2000 20:13:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods I see allot of mention of using tung oil on cane. Since it gives so littleprotection when compared to spar varnish, or poly-u's, I'm wondering whyit's used ???? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Invisible wraps - was RE: Tom Moran rods Hi Tim, When you use straight Tung Oil you have to add a dryer such asJapan Dryer. Pure Tung takes forever to dry. I have the best luck with aTung based product called Waterlox.Also, when using white silk make sureyour hands a very clean and clean them periodically while wrapping.Theoil from your hands will foul the silk. Thin the first coat of sparbefore coating the wrap so you get even penetration. Marty I love the look of the invisible wraps that several of the pictures onthispage detail, but I haven't had much luck when I've tried them myself. I was told that all I needed to do was use white silk with no colorpreserver, and a penetrating finish such as spar. When I tried this, Igot amuch more hazy looking finish than these pictures show, and I also hadsomemottling. I think part of my problem was that I didn't do a good job of gettingvarnish under the wraps around the snake guides, but I also wonderedwhetherit had something to do with the fact that I usually rub tung oil on thefinished blank before applying guides and varnishing (I think maybeexcesstung soaked into the wraps in some spots. I don't know whether thedarkerplaces were where the silk absorbed oil, or where it didn't). Any advice from how to get perfectly clear wraps like the ones picturedonthis webpage?---Tim ---------- Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 4:25 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Tom Moran rods Wow, a great page if you like tying too! (Just delete the "bamboo"part from the address.) Thanks, Sue.Bob At 09:07 AM 8/11/00 -0600, Sue Kreutzer wrote: Sorry, I deleted the email from the person who posted re the TomMoranrods yesterday, or I would have sent this via pvt email. Iheard from myfriend who is traveling the U.S. who is Moran fan also. Hereminded methat he has some pix up of Tom's work :www.danica.com/flytier/bamboo/bamboo.htm suecolorado(Not the "Sue" that wrote that horrible post that 'mep' snippedandpasted.*G* ) Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Fri Aug 11 20:26:08 2000 e7C1Q7G13179 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: Barry Kling Thanks, that's what I thought. -----Original Message----- Subject: Barry Kling Hello Barry Yes, Barry, I think that is about what I was trying to say. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: tony - Morgan mill So let me get this straight. When you use machine-made metal implementswith specially manufactured steel blades, forms with precisely cutgrooves, very accurate machine-made measuring devices that detectdifferences you would never know about when using your own eyes orfeeling with your hands...that's making rods by hand. But when you use aplane-like device that holds carbide cutters instead of steel, usingsteel bars similar in shape to those in traditional forms but adjustedin a manner more elegant and repeatable, and measuring devicescomparable (if not identical) to those used with traditional forms, andstill provide all the power with your own hands and arms...that's NOTmaking a rod by hand. I'll say again what I've said before -- us REAL men, those of us notafraid to be authentic, won't fish with anything but a whole culm. Therest of you are clearly on some lower plane, though I try to tolerateeveryone, even people who like using soul-less cold industrial steelbars and effete micrometers. I'm just grateful we no longer have to use those whole greenwoodtrees.... -----Original Message----- Subject: tony - Morgan mill Tony I'm sure the Morgan mill is nice;In fact, I'm sure it's grand. But, just to give my life some spiceI'll make my rods by HAND. And if the prints I leave behindShould need to be more keen -Then, and only then, you'll findI'll resort ... to a machine! There's a very fine and hazy line, That only God can gauge - Between the rods that are truly MINEAnd the duplicates by Sage! Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "It's a funny old world. A man's lucky if he gets out of it alive."W C Fields from brewer@teleport.com Fri Aug 11 20:28:34 2000 e7C1SXG13350 0000 (216.26.32.95) Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C003C2.9386D600 Bob, the only one I have used is a Pilot P-700 Fine with 0.7 marked on =the clip. The barrel looks like fake marble or something. It works well =if you tip it to a fairly low angle (to the bamboo). I have "tested" =several of my kid's other gel pens and they seem to work on some scrap =butt sections, but they are a little too neon for my taste! Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 3:48 PMSubject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they are =pretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote: I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, =but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a =very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the =best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black =india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to =every issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it =makes a big difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul Bob Maulucci==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C003C2.9386D600 Bob, the only one I have used is a Pilot P-700 Fine = marked on the clip. The barrel looks like fake marble or something. It = well if you tip it to a fairly low angle (to the bamboo). I have = several of my kid's other gel pens and they seem to work on some scrap = sections, but they are a little too neon for my taste! ----- Original Message ----- maulucci Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 = PMSubject: Re: Fw: Lettering =rodsHi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the = name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59= are pretty good.BobAt 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, RandyBrewer = wrote:I used to use India Ink with a fine tip = from the craft store, but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works = Paul Goodwin ; Rodmakers Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48PMSubject: = Lettering rodsHi = a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a very fine = get a really thin line. But you know what I like the best is just a = old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink. However = offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue, but there's = sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big difference to the = side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message ----- = Paul Goodwin = Rodmakers = Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 = Lettering rodsWhat do others = =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com = ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C003C2.9386D600-- from gjm80301@yahoo.com Fri Aug 11 21:16:04 2000 e7C2G3G14085 2000 19:16:03 PDT Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods The "Pentel Hybrid Gel Roller" works. I like the "fine" point best. They come in several colors - I have only used black on a rod. --- Randy Brewer wrote:Bob, the only one I have used is a Pilot P-700 Fine with 0.7 markedon the clip. The barrel looks like fake marble or something. Itworks well if you tip it to a fairly low angle (to the bamboo). Ihave "tested" several of my kid's other gel pens and they seem towork on some scrap butt sections, but they are a little too neon ----- Original Message ----- From: bob maulucci Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 3:48 PMSubject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59they are pretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote: I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craftstore, but tried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray Gould Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TGwith a very fine point to get a really thin line. But you know whatI like the best is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpointusing black india ink. However let me offer an old adage: There aretwo sides to every issue, but there's also two sides to a sheet offlypaper and it makes a big difference to the fly which side hechooses.Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Fri Aug 11 21:19:13 2000 e7C2JCG14216 Subject: 9-1/2 Plane? All, I have a plane that looks almost like a 9-1/2, but it is about 3/4" longer in the body. The throat adjustment is different too. And there's no blade side- to-side adjuster under the blade. OBTW, the blade in it is marked Stanley - Made in England. Is this a later 9-1/2? Don Burns from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sat Aug 12 03:46:40 2000 e7C8kdG18725 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:46:37 +0200 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: Sv: Culm Usage e7C8keG18726 I agree with You, Richard. And why I dont do it myself; I think it looks wrong!!!That is not a valid point - I know - And I ought to change the attitude. Buthonestly,rod pieces should have the same length. Perhaps we should discard the NSferruleand splice the rods a la Sharpes with electricians tape. Now if tape lookinglikecane or cork exists, we could be persuaded. The ARE possibilities, if one wants to discard the NS ferrule: splicing asmentionedabove, or using only a female ferrule, placed on the tip - yes, I've seen it.You couldreplace the NS with a piece of carbon or glassfibre from an old fishing rod,also just mountedon the tip, and no ferru'le part on the butt. Seen that too. Weight wise all ofthese solutionsare better than the ordinary NS ferrule. But rodmakers are a conservativebunch, and so areour clients, so we just go along with the good ole ferrule, very well knowingthat bettersolutions exists. But the NS ferrule LOOKS good, doesn't it?:-)) regards,Carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Culm Usage All good points, Carsten. I also think Charles Ritz had the right idea inmoving the ferrule lower down the rod instead of placing it in the centeron a 2-piece rod. This reduces the weight on the tip. I think the slightlylonger rod tube such a rod requires is a small trade off for what isprobably a gain in performance. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu JorgensenSent: Friday, August 11, 2000 6:18 PM Subject: Sv: Culm Usage Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don't need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of thepower fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Aug 12 05:11:06 2000 e7CAB5G19704 (204.186.33.37) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Lettering rods The brand name I have is Pentel but there are many others. They are inboth art supply and office supply stores like Stapeles. Many colors tochoose from. I also picked up a pen called a Staedtler Pigment Linerthat works great in the 1mm and 3mm size. I used to use a Korohneer(spelling?) Tech pen but these others are much easier to work with.Marty What are these "Gel Pens" ? Do they have a brand name. Are they in artstores or office supply's ? GMA----- Original Message -----From: "Randy Brewer" Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 5:37 PMSubject: Fw: Lettering rods I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, but trieda gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message -----From: Ray Gould Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with a veryfine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like the best isjust a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black india ink.However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to every issue, butthere's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes a big differenceto the fly which side he chooses.Ray----- Original Message -----From: Paul Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul from anglport@con2.com Sat Aug 12 07:22:01 2000 e7CCM0G20776 Rodmakers Subject: Re: Lettering rods Danny,You don't say, so I'll ask: Do you sign between the coats or before thefirst coat? I used to do it before everything and found that putting on onecoat first cured my problem of fuzziness.Art At 01:35 AM 08/13/2000 +0200, Danny Twang wrote:I`ve been using India Ink with a fine tip pen, it works ok, butsometimes the inkfollows the fibre (terms??) of the cane, and makes the lettering a bitfuzzy. I think its because I`ve a very thin sharp penpoint and it scrach the polishedsurface..... "" pens on the market. But after looking atsome of my photographic prints that have been hanging on the wall acoupleof years,feltpen, the lettering have faded. I have bought a new pen whitch is "" I have tried on some new print....... BTW what is a Leroy pen? regardsdanny Danny Twang+47 35 55 80 24GSM 908 94 054 From: Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:48:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Fw: Lettering rods Hi Randy:What are the gel pens like? What is the brand name?I have been using the disposable Pigma Micro 2.5 mm. At $2.59 they arepretty good.Bob At 03:37 PM 8/11/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:I used to use India Ink with a fine tip pen from the craft store, buttried a gel pen on my last two. It works very well. ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 12:48 PMSubject: Re: Lettering rods Hi Paul,I've tried a bunch of different ones including the Castell TG with avery fine point to get a really thin line. But you know what I like thebest is just a plain old Speedball with a fine penpoint using black indiaink. However let me offer an old adage: There are two sides to everyissue, but there's also two sides to a sheet of flypaper and it makes abig difference to the fly which side he chooses.Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 8:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com from leroyt@involved.com Sat Aug 12 09:27:58 2000 e7CERvG23426 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61049U4500L450S0V35) "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: Culm Usage Some good ideas on making the rod more responsive, seems as if everyonewants to add extra guides and extra whatever to make something that isslow Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu JorgensenSent: Friday, August 11, 2000 3:18 PM Subject: Sv: Culm Usage Consider this: When a rod bends, one side is compressed, the opposite is stretched.Right in the midlle, absolutely nothing is happening. Therefore,You don't need powerfibers in the middle of the rod, since theycontribute absolutely nothing to the power of the rod. So, IMHO, making a thin rod from a heavy culm is absolutely awaste of the thick culm. What matters is the quality of the power fibers,or to be more precise, the density of them. What You should consider, and what I feel is somewhat neglected,is the adding of weight (varnish, silk, snakes, tip-top and ferrule)to the rod. I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. This is because unneccesary weight on the rod slows it down,like placing bags of cement in the trunk of a car: It makesacceleration as well as decelleration slower. regards, Carsten from lblove@omniglobal.net Sat Aug 12 10:02:36 2000 e7CF2ZG23997 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferrules long compared to the print for Super Z's on Chris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is this in overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style" ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sat Aug 12 10:34:37 2000 e7CFYbG24596 +0200 Subject: Ferrule design cont. e7CFYbG24597 Leroy and others... The "overlap" I make is something like 2,5 times the diameterof the broadest diameter of the rod, that means from point to point,not flat to flat.. The serrations start something like the thickness of 3 size A winding from the female (when rod is put together). I seem to recall that truncated ferrules are ferrules that are shorter than"standard" ferrules, right? And that they are used on 3 piece rods.Now, and this is pure speculation, as I am no engineer, if this is so,how come the lower ferrule on a 3 piece rod does not break whenthe rod is casting/playing a fish. The most power is sent down the rodto the butt, and no matter how many pieces a rod consists of, the sameamount of force is transmitted down the rod. So when we make a 2 piece rod,we use the stronger type of ferruleon the place of the lesser strain, whereas on a 3 or more piece rodwe use the weaker type of ferrule on the more strained spot. I am assuming that the wall thickness of the ferrules are the same,ofcourse. If so, the strain is bigger on the truncated ferrule, as it isshorter. Well, I make the wall thicknes the same on my short ferrules as theSuper Z uses, and never had a failure. Result: reduce the length ofthe ferrule by 25%, and You have a considerable weight reduction.Put together with the previously mentioned weight saving measures,this all adds up to something substantial. And less weight means afaster rod. regards,carsten from leroyt@involved.com Sat Aug 12 10:47:18 2000 e7CFlHG24892 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61049U4500L450S0V35) "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage There is some information in Garrison's book about ferrules.Leroy.....----- Original Message----- ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Aug 12 11:17:16 2000 e7CGHFG25480 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:17:10 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Bradley,try this link http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/7762/ferrules.htm Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Aug 12 11:20:33 2000 e7CGKWG25680 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:20:26 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Bradley,also if you find commercial length ferrules kind of long, try theBellinger ferrules. They are short, somewhere between a standard andtruncated, and are gorgeous little ferrules. Usual disclaimer....although Iwish I had commercial interest in some of these products! LOL!Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from utzerath@execpc.com Sat Aug 12 11:28:04 2000 e7CGS3G25933 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:27:59 -0500 "Rodmakers Listserv" Subject: Re: Lettering rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format.------ =_NextPart_000_0016_01C00451.383F2BA0 I still like the looks of black drawing ink (India) on blond blanks. =Gold gel looks nice on dark cane or on graph@@@. I'm using Sanford =brand from an office supply store. Here's a couple of hints: the pens =seem to dry out after they are used; make sure the ink rolls smoothly or =get a new pen. Apply over a first coat of finish that has been slightly =deglossed with steel wool. Let the gel set for half a day to reduce the =chance of smearing. Epoxy finish is trickier; I've had best results =lettering between coats of CP (one acetate and one acrylic) before =applying epoxy. ] Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 10:21 AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on the cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C00451.383F2BA0 I still like the looks of black drawing ink (India) = ----- Original Message ----- Goodwin Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 = AMSubject: Lettering rods What do others use to write on cane? Paul ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C00451.383F2BA0-- from cbogart@shentel.net Sat Aug 12 13:46:35 2000 e7CIkYG28152 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 14:46:24 -0400 "nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca" "leroyt@involved.com" ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" (5.0.2195;1) Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Shawn FYI - the Bellinger ferrules are made exactly to the Super Z patentdimensionunlike others. Now - have you seen Per Brandon's latest rods with a NS "micro" ferrule made Chris On Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:16:37 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote: Bradley,also if you find commercial length ferrules kind of long, try theBellinger ferrules. They are short, somewhere between a standard andtruncated, and are gorgeous little ferrules. Usual disclaimer....although Iwish I had commercial interest in some of these products! LOL!Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameterofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Aug 12 14:33:44 2000 e7CJXhG28974 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 16:33:37 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods "cmj@post11.tele.dk" ,"leroyt@involved.com" ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Chris,thanks for bringing that to my attention. I find the Bellinger ferruleswayshorter than Tony's and CSE's ferrules that I normally use. I thought thatthe CSEferrules were built to Super Z dimensions? Perhaps I am confusing this withSuper Swiss?Are these "Micro" ferrules standard issue or are they special built justforPer??Shawn Chris Bogart wrote: Shawn FYI - the Bellinger ferrules are made exactly to the Super Z patentdimensionunlike others. Now - have you seen Per Brandon's latest rods with a NS "micro" ferrule made Chris On Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:16:37 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote: Bradley,also if you find commercial length ferrules kind of long, try theBellinger ferrules. They are short, somewhere between a standard andtruncated, and are gorgeous little ferrules. Usual disclaimer....although Iwish I had commercial interest in some of these products! LOL!Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameterofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Aug 12 14:59:14 2000 e7CJxDG29425 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:00:39 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage I can understand wanting to reduce all up weight with #3 and #4 wt. rods,that are meant for shorter distances. I wonder how much difference it canmake for #5 to #7 wts. and higher though. Also I would think a tip ferrulefailing on a 3- pc., would be with the typical "dry fly" action, that has afaster tip, and a stiff butt. GMA----- Original Message ----- "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Shawn FYI - the Bellinger ferrules are made exactly to the Super Z patentdimensionunlike others. Now - have you seen Per Brandon's latest rods with a NS "micro" ferrulemade Chris On Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:16:37 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote: Bradley,also if you find commercial length ferrules kind of long,try theBellinger ferrules. They are short, somewhere between a standard andtruncated, and are gorgeous little ferrules. Usual disclaimer....althoughIwish I had commercial interest in some of these products! LOL!Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet ofthesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameterofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Aug 12 15:14:03 2000 e7CKE2G29748 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:15:35 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Brad, I wonder if the all up weight of a strung rod, is nearly as important ashaving it balanced to the line properly. You can have a 3 to 4 oz. CF rodabsolutely have your arm aching in a short time, while any rod that'sbalanced well with the line, regardless of weight, won't do that when fishedall day ! I feel many designed their tapers to compensate for the stiffness,etc., created by the ferruled joint. GMA----- Original Message ----- "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times the diameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sat Aug 12 16:15:11 2000 e7CLFAG00955 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 14:15:05 -0700 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Bellinger Ferrules FILETIME=[628573A0:01C004A2] The Bellinger ferrules are scaled after the original Super Z's. CSE ferrules are a bit longer in the standard length and a lot shorter in the truncated.A.J.Thramer________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from fiveside@net-gate.com Sat Aug 12 18:27:19 2000 e7CNRIG02543 TAA29741 for ; Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:27:02 Subject: Ferrules To the List,The ultimate answer is to make one piece rods. You have total designfreedom and are no longer tied to making things come out right for someevennumber of 64ths somewhere near the middle. And big vans are not all thatbad don't go far off road. Or get a BMW and stick your rods through the hole inthe roof, like in Roscoe. But seriously, one-piecers do fit in many standardvehicles. Another weight saving tip is to use those ugly Fuji ceramic tops whichweigh exactly half the weight of the Perfection type and last Forever! Nogrooving. And saving weight at the tip really is important. See you in Roscoe (Big green van) Bill from guille32@tutopia.com Sat Aug 12 21:09:37 2000 e7D29aG04774 398B05E2000C3333 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 12 Aug 200019:09:27 -0700 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 02:07:51 +0000 Subject: Chinese bamboo rods site This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_017A_01C004B3.49C0C0C0 http://bamboofishing.2699.com ------=_NextPart_000_017A_01C004B3.49C0C0C0 site: http://bamboofishing.2699.com P.D.:Make sure you have around your = ------=_NextPart_000_017A_01C004B3.49C0C0C0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Aug 12 21:17:36 2000 e7D2HZG04995 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 23:17:29 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods "lblove@omniglobal.net" ,"cmj@post11.tele.dk" ,"leroyt@involved.com" ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: ferrule design was Re: Culm Usage Bradley,I forgot to mention, the long ferrules I got from Tony werestandard sizebut he can also make them truncated or any length you want, kind of a niceoption!ShawnShawn Pineo wrote: Chris,thanks for bringing that to my attention. I find the Bellinger ferruleswayshorter than Tony's and CSE's ferrules that I normally use. I thought thatthe CSEferrules were built to Super Z dimensions? Perhaps I am confusing this withSuper Swiss?Are these "Micro" ferrules standard issue or are they special builtjust forPer??Shawn Chris Bogart wrote: Shawn FYI - the Bellinger ferrules are made exactly to the Super Z patentdimensionunlike others. Now - have you seen Per Brandon's latest rods with a NS "micro" ferrule made Chris On Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:16:37 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote: Bradley,also if you find commercial length ferrules kind of long, try theBellinger ferrules. They are short, somewhere between a standard andtruncated, and are gorgeous little ferrules. Usual disclaimer....although Iwish I had commercial interest in some of these products! LOL!Shawn Bradley Love wrote: Good Day Fellow List members, Is it me or are the commercially available ferruleslong compared to the print for Super Z's onChris Bogart's site? Is there a formula or standard forconverting standard length to truncated length?REC lists a approx. 33% length reduction is thisin overall length or just slide length?Does anyone have a print for a "Leonard style"ferrule? If not where is there a picture of one on theweb? thanks for any and all inputBradley Will use the tip-top and ferrule suggestions on my next rod.Great ideas Carsten!Leroy......... I apply only a thin coat of varnish to the rod, I file the feet of thesnakes short (less weight of feet, silk and varnish) I saw off app.half of the tip-top and try to make ferrules as short as possible.This means a length of the male no more than 3 times thediameter ofthe rod. No welt on the male ferrule, and the silk starts where thefemale ferrule stops. regards, Carsten from ddeloach@pcisys.net Sun Aug 13 01:20:57 2000 e7D6KuG08108 Subject: Re: Bellinger Ferrules What about the long term performance of truncs vs. standard ferrules? The Bellinger ferrules are scaled after the original Super Z's. CSEferrulesare a bit longer in the standard length and a lot shorter in the truncated.A.J.Thramer________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from yves@hwy97.net Sun Aug 13 01:32:45 2000 e7D6WiG08342 Sat, 12 Aug 2000 23:32:43 -0700 Subject: Driggs guide spacing List: Does anyone have the original guide spacings for the 7' 2" PHYDriggs River Special handy. I would appreciate having it. TIA. Dave from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 13 09:02:30 2000 e7DE2UG13143 Subject: Hand or machine made There was a post the other day about hand ormachine made, I received this from a friend ofmine. The list has been slow so I thought I wouldpost it. This was his interpretation, thought it was good. In any discussion of this nature, a set of groundrules or definitionsneeds to be agreed on, then the "fine line" candetermined by eachindividual to fit his/her personal taste orequipment. Here is astarting point. My old dictionary: Hand-made -- 1. Made by hand instead of machine.Machine -- 1. A thing made up of fixedand moving parts, fordoing some kind of work. (This is definition usedbelow, plusqualifiers)2. A thing thatworks in a simple wayto get the most force from the energy used. (Notused, too broad,everything is a machine)(Levers,screws, and pulleys aresimple machines.)Tool -- 1. Any kind of instrumentheld in the hand ordriven by a motor and used in doing some work.(Machine could be machinetool)2. Any person orthing used as a meansto get something done. Starting definitions: Machine -- A thing made upof fixed and movingparts, for doing some kind of work. Once started movement repeats automatically, withoutintervention by the user, untilstopped by an action of the user. The primarypower is usually otherthan the direct human muscle power of the user.Complexity of the thingis irrelevant. Tool -- A thing used to dosome kind of workthat does not meet the definition for machine. Maybe made up of fixedand moving parts. The moving parts must be moved repetition or movement. Complexity of the thing isirrelevant. Hand made -- Made with theaid of tools only. Machine made -- Made withthe aid of machinesand tools. Splitting -- Done with some type of knife orwedge, a tool. Straightening/flattening -- Done with a:1 - vise, a tool, anda - heat gun, amachineb - alcohol lamp, atool2 - belt sander, a machine Rough planing/shaping -- Done with a:1 - hand plane, a tool2 - motor powered saw, amachine3 - motor powered bevelingmachine, a machine4 - hand powered bevelingmachine, a tool Heat treating/tempering -- Done with:1 - an electrically poweredoven, without a fan,toola - with a fan(machine)b - heat gun (machine) 2 - a gas torch, tool.3 - gas fired oven, a tool Final planing/shaping -- Done with a1 - hand plane, a tool, andadjustable form, a tool2 - motor powered millingmachine, a machine3 - hand powered millingmachine, a tool Assembly (strips) -- Bound up after applying glueusing a:1 - Garrison style binder, atool2 - powered counter rotatingstyle binder, a machine 3 - non-powered rotatingbinder (hand cranked), atool4 - by hand. Assembly (rod) -- The guides are "tuned" using agrinder or dremeltool, machines, and a flat surface, a tool. A fileor hand stone, tools,could be used.The corkmay be turned on a drillpress, lathe or hand drill, machines. Pre madehandles can be used.Ferrulesare fitted using alathe, machine, or by hand.The guidesare installed using arod wrapping tool, a tool.Ferrulescan be made, machines,or purchased.The same seat inserts, and winding checks. The finish is be applied using a:1 - dip tube using a motor, amachine, and pulley,a tool2 - drain tube, a tool3 - by hand, using a brush orrubbing it on.4 - The rod may be rotatedwhile the finish on thewraps dries using:a - a slow speedmotor (a rod turner), amachine.b - a schedule, byhand. Various measuring devices are used also;1 - Tape measures, tool2 - Steel rules, tools3 - Vernier calipers, tool4 - Dial indicators, tool5 - Micrometers. tool Plus all the other things used during theconstruction of the rod shouldbe considered. Here are some divisions, or categories, that canbe used to define workstyle based on the descriptions above.1 - Hand- made -- tools only,no machines used atall.2 - Hand-made with somemachine assistance --incidental machine use, no machines used inshaping strips.3 - Hand-made with a lot ofmachine assistance --minor machine use plus machines used in shapingstrips, one step.4 - Machine made -- machinesused as much aspossible. Pick your "fine line" using this as a guide and Iwill have a betterunderstanding of how you do, and feel about, "yourthing". We will bothbe using the same sheet of music. I am a"primarily hand-made, withsome machine assistance," builder. I use a heatgun, a powered binder, arod turner, and since I got a lathe, I'll use itto fit ferrules and I'mstarting to make some of my own inserts andferrules. PS I suspect many non full time rod builders are"primarily hand-made,with some machine assistance," builders usingthese guidelines. from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sun Aug 13 12:26:53 2000 e7DHQlG15592 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 10:26:40 -0700 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Re: Bellinger Ferrules FILETIME=[A4743860:01C0054B] From: "Don DeLoach" Subject: Re: Bellinger FerrulesDate: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 00:22:56 -0600 Although I have used about 80-100 sets of trunc ferrules I no longer use them.A.J.Thramer What about the long term performance of truncs vs. standard ferrules? The Bellinger ferrules are scaled after the original Super Z's. CSEferrulesare a bit longer in the standard length and a lot shorter in the truncated.A.J.Thramer ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 13 14:07:32 2000 e7DJ7VG16976 Subject: Guide spacing Can someone give me the guide spacing for the PHYPara 15 and also what node stagger was used.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from BambooRods@aol.com Sun Aug 13 15:02:37 2000 e7DK2bG18002 Subject: Trip info Help I will be in LA in a few weeks and was wondering if anyone could suggest any flyfishing related points of interest (shops etc.). I have already thought about the "pits" but as I understand it, it is very difficult to get a natural drift in tar. TIADoug Hall from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sun Aug 13 15:49:41 2000 e7DKnfG18733 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 13:49:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Trip info Help BambooRods@aol.com wrote: I will be in LA Well, Doug, is that LA as in Los Angeles or LA as in Louisiana? If the former,you're on your own. If the latter, then I can help. Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from dannyt@frisurf.no Sun Aug 13 16:04:45 2000 e7DL4iG19070 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:04:06 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Lettering rods Art, I usually sign on the bare cane, but after the first coat helps....Also beeing carful not scraching up the cane with the pen. What I`ve not got any answer on yet is, what is a Leroy lettering set? regardsdanny-------Work Danny,You don't say, so I'll ask: Do you sign between the coats or before thefirst coat? I used to do it before everything and found that putting on onecoat first cured my problem of fuzziness.Art from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Aug 13 17:02:41 2000 e7DM2eG19955 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 17:00:10 -0500 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Lettering rods A Leroy set is a system used in old style drafting rooms to ink lettering ondrawings, vellums, etc.. Basically it is a pantograph way of doinglettering. All this is done via Cad systems these days. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Lettering rods Art, I usually sign on the bare cane, but after the first coat helps....Also beeing carful not scraching up the cane with the pen. What I`ve not got any answer on yet is, what is a Leroy lettering set? regardsdanny------- Danny Twang+47 35 55 80 24GSM 908 94 054Private Work Danny,You don't say, so I'll ask: Do you sign between the coats or before thefirst coat? I used to do it before everything and found that putting ononecoat first cured my problem of fuzziness.Art from bob@downandacross.com Sun Aug 13 17:59:41 2000 e7DMxeG20914 Subject: powered binder --=====================_37554016==_.ALT Is there a commercial source for a powered four string binder?Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_37554016==_.ALT Is there a commercial source for a powered four string binder? Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_37554016==_.ALT-- from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 13 18:38:48 2000 e7DNclG21569 ;Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:38:42 +0000 Subject: Re: Trip info Help Yeah! If you're going to LA the latter, bring an appetite! Whattagreat place! YUM! Dennis Harry Boyd wrote: BambooRods@aol.com wrote: I will be in LA Well, Doug, is that LA as in Los Angeles or LA as in Louisiana? If theformer,you're on your own. If the latter, then I can help. Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sun Aug 13 19:58:05 2000 e7E0w4G22786 17:58:04 PDT Subject: Re: spinning rods i built a couple of tapers i hated so i made spiningrods from those and they were great..at least the guyi sold them to at my wifes yard sale thought so. he'scalled me three times to tell me. timothy --- Shawn Pineo wrote:Friends,I am thinking of building a short lightaction spinning rod from one of the excellent tapers available outthere. What I waswondering was what others experiences have been/suggestions with theserods.I am planning on using it in the woods Comments?? Shawn ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Aug 13 20:09:40 2000 e7E19dG23051 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: Black stripping guides What brand black stripping guides do people use? I've been using Mildrumswith the carboloy ring for rods with bright fittings but they don't seem tocome in anything other than chrome. A source for black guides would also bemost appreciated. Thanks in advance, Richard from channer1@rmi.net Sun Aug 13 20:48:47 2000 e7E1mkG23899 Subject: Re: Black stripping guides Richard Nantel wrote: What brand black stripping guides do people use? I've been using Mildrumswith the carboloy ring for rods with bright fittings but they don't seem tocome in anything other than chrome. A source for black guides would alsobemost appreciated. Thanks in advance, RichardRichars;I have been using Pacific Bay Titanium Carbide casting guides, they comein size 8mm up. They are a gunsmoke chrome kind of color unvarnished,but when you dip them they turn the best looking black I have seen yet.John from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Aug 13 21:32:40 2000 e7E2WcG24726 Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:30:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Black stripping guides Where do you get them ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Black stripping guides Richard Nantel wrote: What brand black stripping guides do people use? I've been usingMildrumswith the carboloy ring for rods with bright fittings but they don't seemtocome in anything other than chrome. A source for black guides wouldalsobemost appreciated. Thanks in advance, RichardRichars;I have been using Pacific Bay Titanium Carbide casting guides, they comein size 8mm up. They are a gunsmoke chrome kind of color unvarnished,but when you dip them they turn the best looking black I have seen yet.John from brewer@teleport.com Sun Aug 13 21:38:20 2000 e7E2cJG24925 (216.26.32.154) Subject: Re: LA Trip info Help Doug, try Marriott's fishing shop (in Fullerton, I think) and theFisherman's Spot in Van Nuys. When in the Fisherman's Spot, ask fordirections to Frenchman's Flat and Piru Creek up on the Grapevine. Anotherspot is Deep Creek in the San Bernadino Mountains. Pretty slim pickins compared to most western destinations. Good luck! -Randy Brewer P.S. I can recommend some restaurants, that's one reason to go there eveniffly fishing is not... ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Trip info Help I will be in LA in a few weeks and was wondering if anyone could suggestanyflyfishing related points of interest (shops etc.). I have alreadythoughtabout the "pits" but as I understand it, it is very difficult to get anatural drift in tar. TIADoug Hall from utzerath@execpc.com Mon Aug 14 08:15:04 2000 e7EDF3G03966 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 08:14:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Black stripping guides I don't apply finish over them as John describes. But I agree they looknice, and the matching snakes/tip look good on dark cane. I also like thegold TiN. The titanium plating is there for durability and reducedfriction. (Has anyone used the single foot model with cane?) Hook & Hackle, www.hookhack.com carries both in 10mm up; but they call theblack TiC, Titanium; and they call the gold TiN, Gold/Ti . Wild RiverDistributing, (651) 433-2217, has the TiC only but a little cheaper, evenwith H&H's usual discount. I am curious about whether the list member(s)that belong to the Rodcrafters Guild get much better prices. Usual disclaimer about all the above, Jim U Richard Nantel wrote: What brand black stripping guides do people use? I've been usingMildrums ----snip---- RichardRichars;I have been using Pacific Bay Titanium Carbide casting guides, they comein size 8mm up. They are a gunsmoke chrome kind of color unvarnished,but when you dip them they turn the best looking black I have seen yet.John from rafick@3riversweb.net Mon Aug 14 12:26:50 2000 e7EHQnG15328 0000 Subject: test test, need not reply . R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Aug 14 15:49:54 2000 e7EKnrG25114 Subject: rod ID Hi all, been absent from the list for a while, it's fishing season, youknow. But I'm back to ask for help. Family member sent me a rod thatneeds ID'ed prior to my starting to work on it. It's approximately8'6", 3 pieces, nickel plated brass ferrules with a very slightshoulder. The shoulder of each ferrule piece has two crudely knurledrings. Reelseat appears to be either nickel or chrome plated brass.Sheet cork grip, with the large winding check. Guides are snakeswrapped in green, almost a kelly green, and there are only five of themon the entire rod, plus the NPB tip top. Black intermediates every fourand a half inches. Has a substantial (1/2") black wrap at the windingcheck, followed by a smaller wrap, just like you'd see for a hookkeeper,but there is no evidence that there ever was a hookkeeper. Three blacksignature wraps spaced 1/2" apart, first is 3-1/2" up from windingcheck. Where the wraps have come off, exposing the cane, the cane isextremely light-colored. Thread appears to be synthetic, melts ratherthan burning, smells awful when it does. Although the intermediatesappear to be a different and finer thread, so maybe the guides werereplacements or rewraps. I'll take this home tonight and take somemeasurements, but would appreciate any help you all might be able tooffer. I'd like to identify it before I start working on it (or maybeso that I don't start working on it). from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Aug 14 16:01:36 2000 e7EL1ZG25730 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:59:29 -0500 Subject: Re: rod ID Sounds like a Montague of some sort. I think they also made some forShakespeare. I have a sheet cork grip Monty that sounds similar. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: rod ID Hi all, been absent from the list for a while, it's fishing season, youknow. But I'm back to ask for help. Family member sent me a rod thatneeds ID'ed prior to my starting to work on it. It's approximately8'6", 3 pieces, nickel plated brass ferrules with a very slightshoulder. The shoulder of each ferrule piece has two crudely knurledrings. Reelseat appears to be either nickel or chrome plated brass.Sheet cork grip, with the large winding check. Guides are snakeswrapped in green, almost a kelly green, and there are only five of themon the entire rod, plus the NPB tip top. Black intermediates every fourand a half inches. Has a substantial (1/2") black wrap at the windingcheck, followed by a smaller wrap, just like you'd see for a hookkeeper,but there is no evidence that there ever was a hookkeeper. Three blacksignature wraps spaced 1/2" apart, first is 3-1/2" up from windingcheck. Where the wraps have come off, exposing the cane, the cane isextremely light-colored. Thread appears to be synthetic, melts ratherthan burning, smells awful when it does. Although the intermediatesappear to be a different and finer thread, so maybe the guides werereplacements or rewraps. I'll take this home tonight and take somemeasurements, but would appreciate any help you all might be able tooffer. I'd like to identify it before I start working on it (or maybeso that I don't start working on it). from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Aug 14 16:15:04 2000Received: from e7ELF3G26320 Subject: More on rod ID Craftsmanship on this rod is pretty poor. There is significant gougingat all the nodes. Looks like plane "chatter" marks, and they are atevery node. from caneman@clnk.com Mon Aug 14 16:29:59 2000 e7ELTwG27169 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:24:22 -0500 Subject: Need a URL This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BA_01C0060C.D5DD53C0 Does anyone have the URL for Rick's Rods. Got a Phillipson question and =understand they are the "experts" on Bill Phillipson rods. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_01BA_01C0060C.D5DD53C0 and understand they are the "experts" on Bill Phillipson =rods. Bob ------=_NextPart_000_01BA_01C0060C.D5DD53C0-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Aug 14 16:37:26 2000 e7ELbPG27951 Subject: RE: More on rod ID Bob,It's not gaps in the seems, these chatter marks are on the enamel side.Do you know how Montague flattened their nodes? -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 3:25 PM Subject: Re: More on rod ID James,Sounds like a Montague, early vintage. Value prob isn't verygreat.The gaps you see in the seams is dull cutter head on theirmillingmachine. Generally, these rods had a little better workmanship thanwhatyou are describing, but when the cutters got dull, if they weren'tworkingon their premium grade rods, they would just let them go for a fewdays. Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: James Date: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:09 PMSubject: More on rod ID Craftsmanship on this rod is pretty poor. There is significantgougingat all the nodes. Looks like plane "chatter" marks, and they are atevery node. from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Aug 14 16:45:15 2000 e7ELjEG28491 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:43:28 -0500 Subject: Re: More on rod ID I've seen some Monty's like this too. Their lower end it seems. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: More on rod ID Bob,It's not gaps in the seems, these chatter marks are on the enamel side.Do you know how Montague flattened their nodes? -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 3:25 PM Subject: Re: More on rod ID James,Sounds like a Montague, early vintage. Value prob isn't verygreat.The gaps you see in the seams is dull cutter head on theirmillingmachine. Generally, these rods had a little better workmanship thanwhatyou are describing, but when the cutters got dull, if they weren'tworkingon their premium grade rods, they would just let them go for a fewdays. Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: James Date: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:09 PMSubject: More on rod ID Craftsmanship on this rod is pretty poor. There is significantgougingat all the nodes. Looks like plane "chatter" marks, and they are atevery node. from richjez@enteract.com Mon Aug 14 16:46:32 2000 e7ELkVG28654 Subject: Re: Need a URL --=====================_390674==_.ALT http://www.ricksrods.com/ I can be gotten to through Rodmakers. (Thank you Jerry) Rich Jezioro At 04:29 PM 8/14/00, Bob Nunley wrote:Does anyone have the URL for Rick's Rods. Got a Phillipson question and understand they are the "experts" on Bill Phillipson rods. Bob *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>--=====================_390674==_.ALT http://www.ricksrods.com/ I can be gotten to through Rodmakers. (Thank you Jerry) Rich Jezioro At 04:29 PM 8/14/00, Bob Nunley wrote:Does anyone have the URL for Rick's "experts" on Bill Phillipson rods. Bob *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_390674==_.ALT-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Aug 14 16:50:46 2000 e7ELojG29031 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:49:05 -0500 Subject: Rick's Rods This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C00610.6B6999A0 ------=_NextPart_001_000A_01C00610.6B72C160 Here it is Bob, I hope ! GMAThis document contains frames, which cannot be edited. The original =document is attached. ------=_NextPart_001_000A_01C00610.6B72C160 Here it is Bob, I hope =! GMAThis document contains frames, which cannot be edited. The original = is attached. ------=_NextPart_001_000A_01C00610.6B72C160-- ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C00610.6B6999A0 name="ATT00004.htm" filename="ATT00004.htm" =0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A=TM,Orvis,collectiblefishing =reels,buy fishing tackle,sell fishing tackle,trade fishingtackle,Paul =Hightower,Betty Malara,fly rods,Bob's Tackle,Fred De Bell,monel =ferrules,rod wrappingthread,reel seats,guides,vintage fishing =tackle,collectors,decoratoritems,antiques,tobacco fiberglass rod =blanks,old fishing lures,TonkinCane,older metal fishing rods,solid =fiberglass,fishingrods,spinning,baitcasting,spincasting,boat rods,boat =reels,old tackleboxes,denver colorado">=0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A=Rick's Rods=0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A==0A= ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C00610.6B6999A0-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Aug 14 17:05:39 2000 e7EM5cG29811 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: Bamboo Fly Rod Forums - Name That Rod... HELP Hi Gang, Awhile back, I setup several forums including the "NAME THAT ROD FORUM"akaNTR Forum This forum has been getting a lot of posts from bamboo rodowners, collectors, heirs and the like that are generally uninformed when itcomes to bamboo rods and the values and identification of the rods. Acouple rod collectors have been really great about trying to figure out whomade some of these rods but we need some more experts to lend a hand. There's all types of rods that people want to know more about their rods...In the last 30 days, there's been Paynes, Dickersons, Garrisons, Malleson,H-I, Gillum, Montagues, Leonards, Heddon, Divine, South Bend, Grangers,Summers, Thomas, Maurer, Shakespeare... you name it... that have beenpostedin the Name That Rod Forum or in the other forums for sale or RFI (request Here's the link for the NTR Forum... you can get to all the other forums from there... http://pub1.ezboard.com/fanglerscollectiblesnamethatrod A lot of these people may want to sell these rods as well, so all youcollector types might want to check out this forum and you may be able tomake some deals. Without getting outbid like on the auction sites. Or justbe a Good Samaritan and give them an idea as to the value. You'd be amazed at some of the quality rods that people are asking about... I've been kinda swamped so I don't have time to help these people... Maybeyou can help them... Thanks all... Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Aug 14 17:24:16 2000 e7EMOFG00621 0000 (204.186.33.206) Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: rod ID Without looking at it ,it sounds like a Montague Chubb. At any rate notvaluable. Marty Hi all, been absent from the list for a while, it's fishing season, youknow. But I'm back to ask for help. Family member sent me a rod thatneeds ID'ed prior to my starting to work on it. It's approximately8'6", 3 pieces, nickel plated brass ferrules with a very slightshoulder. The shoulder of each ferrule piece has two crudely knurledrings. Reelseat appears to be either nickel or chrome plated brass.Sheet cork grip, with the large winding check. Guides are snakeswrapped in green, almost a kelly green, and there are only five of themon the entire rod, plus the NPB tip top. Black intermediates every fourand a half inches. Has a substantial (1/2") black wrap at the windingcheck, followed by a smaller wrap, just like you'd see for a hookkeeper,but there is no evidence that there ever was a hookkeeper. Three blacksignature wraps spaced 1/2" apart, first is 3-1/2" up from windingcheck. Where the wraps have come off, exposing the cane, the cane isextremely light-colored. Thread appears to be synthetic, melts ratherthan burning, smells awful when it does. Although the intermediatesappear to be a different and finer thread, so maybe the guides werereplacements or rewraps. I'll take this home tonight and take somemeasurements, but would appreciate any help you all might be able tooffer. I'd like to identify it before I start working on it (or maybeso that I don't start working on it). from rafick@3riversweb.net Mon Aug 14 18:31:56 2000 e7ENVtG03346 0000 Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be "living" in a messagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Aug 14 18:58:10 2000 e7ENw9G04342 17:00:28 PDT Subject: Re: rodmaker archives(virus?!) "rod 'akers" we need to let everyone know. thanks! timothy --- "R.A.Fick" wrote:My anti virus detected( and deleted) the kak worm when I was looking for aseries of messagesabout bluing nickel silver. R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Aug 14 19:11:35 2000 e7F0BZG04995 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: RE: rodmaker archives That virus did make the rounds of rodmakers a few months ago. Howerver,since the archives are text only (no javascript, attachments, etc) I don'tbelieve your computer can contract a virus from searching the archives. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 7:34 PM Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be"living" in a messagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from martinj@aa.net Mon Aug 14 19:15:49 2000 e7F0FnG05212 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 17:15:42 -0700 Subject: RE: rodmaker archives ask Mike Biondo that. I believe that he is the keeper of the list? that"Kak'worm" is a little old and should be picked up by current virusprograms. My gut feeling is "probably not, (well actually it is possible butI would think that it would be picked up and removed or cleaned) but itdepends on the safeguards of the server the files are located on. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be "living" in a messagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from rafick@3riversweb.net Mon Aug 14 19:16:13 2000 e7F0GDG05297 0000 Subject: POSSIBLE virus All While in the archive I clicked on a message dated April 21,2000 by, SeanMcsharry -bluing with fixer/hardener. Anti-virus popped up warning of fileinfected with w script/kak-worm.That is all I know, not being a computer whiz I don't even know if it'spossible. Rick R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Aug 14 20:08:15 2000 e7F18EG07230 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 20:09:50 -0500 Subject: Re: rodmaker archives When we had that last splurge of viruses, I changed all my settings in MSI.E., and O.E. to NOT allow scripting. No problems since ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: rodmaker archives That virus did make the rounds of rodmakers a few months ago. Howerver,since the archives are text only (no javascript, attachments, etc) I don'tbelieve your computer can contract a virus from searching the archives. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 7:34 PM Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be"living" in a messagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Aug 14 20:37:44 2000 e7F1bfG08509 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 10:37:31 +0800 Subject: RE: rodmaker archives This is a tricky one. I'd imagine the server is Unix or possibly Linux sothe virus wont affect it but it would store it in some way because it'd seethe virus as a valid part of the message so when it's downloaded to a PC itmay well arrive in a condition to do it's work.I know when I saw attached to a message on my Linus machine the virusappeared as a set of ASCII code. It only affects WIn machines and only thenunder the conditions it was write to target. I've forgotten the specificprograms apart from the MS web software. Now, I'm only suggesting this and I don't know this would be so but it'sworth looking into. It's worth dropping by MS web page and downloading the patch for IE andOutlook Express that plugs up the hole the virus attacked. The weak point(this one at least) was IE and Outlook Express allowed email and otherthings I'd imagine to run a macro without first warning the user. The patchalerts the user that a macro is about to run and allows the user to stopthe macro. Tony At 05:14 PM 8/14/00 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote:ask Mike Biondo that. I believe that he is the keeper of the list? that"Kak'worm" is a little old and should be picked up by current virusprograms. My gut feeling is "probably not, (well actually it is possible butI would think that it would be picked up and removed or cleaned) but itdepends on the safeguards of the server the files are located on. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:34 PM Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be "living" in a messagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from lblove@omniglobal.net Mon Aug 14 22:08:01 2000 e7F380G12162 Subject: Re: rodmaker archives/the virus lives ms guys only Hey Everyone,The virus is dormant in the archives. I justlooked at a copy of a post that I knew had the wormon it and it is still there and ready to infect an unprotected system.If you run MS products get the critical updates athttp://windowsupdate.microsoft.com/default.htm hope this helpBradley ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: rodmaker archives This is a tricky one. I'd imagine the server is Unix or possibly Linux sothe virus wont affect it but it would store it in some way because it'dseethe virus as a valid part of the message so when it's downloaded to a PCitmay well arrive in a condition to do it's work.I know when I saw attached to a message on my Linus machine the virusappeared as a set of ASCII code. It only affects WIn machines and onlythenunder the conditions it was write to target. I've forgotten the specificprograms apart from the MS web software. Now, I'm only suggesting this and I don't know this would be so but it'sworth looking into. It's worth dropping by MS web page and downloading the patch for IE andOutlook Express that plugs up the hole the virus attacked. The weak point(this one at least) was IE and Outlook Express allowed email and otherthings I'd imagine to run a macro without first warning the user. Thepatchalerts the user that a macro is about to run and allows the user to stopthe macro. Tony At 05:14 PM 8/14/00 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote:ask Mike Biondo that. I believe that he is the keeper of the list? that"Kak'worm" is a little old and should be picked up by current virusprograms. My gut feeling is "probably not, (well actually it is possiblebutI would think that it would be picked up and removed or cleaned) but itdepends on the safeguards of the server the files are located on. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:34 PM Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be "living" in amessagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Aug 14 22:20:01 2000 e7F3K0G12908 Mon, 14 Aug 2000 22:18:12 -0500 Subject: Re: rodmaker archives/the virus lives ms guys only Couldn't the guys who manage this clean it up, without losing it ? GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rodmaker archives/the virus lives ms guys only Hey Everyone,The virus is dormant in the archives. I justlooked at a copy of a post that I knew had the wormon it and it is still there and ready to infect an unprotected system.If you run MS products get the critical updates athttp://windowsupdate.microsoft.com/default.htm hope this helpBradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Young" Cc: ; Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 7:58 PMSubject: RE: rodmaker archives This is a tricky one. I'd imagine the server is Unix or possibly Linuxsothe virus wont affect it but it would store it in some way because it'dseethe virus as a valid part of the message so when it's downloaded to a PCitmay well arrive in a condition to do it's work.I know when I saw attached to a message on my Linus machine the virusappeared as a set of ASCII code. It only affects WIn machines and onlythenunder the conditions it was write to target. I've forgotten the specificprograms apart from the MS web software. Now, I'm only suggesting this and I don't know this would be so but it'sworth looking into. It's worth dropping by MS web page and downloading the patch for IE andOutlook Express that plugs up the hole the virus attacked. The weakpoint(this one at least) was IE and Outlook Express allowed email and otherthings I'd imagine to run a macro without first warning the user. Thepatchalerts the user that a macro is about to run and allows the user to stopthe macro. Tony At 05:14 PM 8/14/00 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote:ask Mike Biondo that. I believe that he is the keeper of the list? that"Kak'worm" is a little old and should be picked up by current virusprograms. My gut feeling is "probably not, (well actually it ispossiblebutI would think that it would be picked up and removed or cleaned) but itdepends on the safeguards of the server the files are located on. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:34 PM Subject: rodmaker archives Anybody Is it possible for a virus(w script / kak- worm) to be "living" in amessagein the archives? RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Aug 15 08:44:46 2000 e7FDijG26031 06:45:08 PDT Subject: TEST test ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from DNHayashida@aol.com Tue Aug 15 09:35:10 2000 e7FEZAG27534 Aug 2000 10:34:55 -0400 Subject: Ultra light lines Did some testing of a few 0 (zero) and 1 weight rods last weekend. I need todo penance because they were graphite, but I fished with them to see whatthe lines were like. One of my fishing buddies was thinking of buying one andgot to take out a few loaners. My opinion is that they are just about useless.The day was a little breezy, but not bad. Just a typical summer fishing day,and the lines were getting blown around like we were in a hurricane. Couldn'tcast them more than 20 feet, and when we tried them in a little riffly brokenwater they sank. I suppose there is a place for them, still spring creekswhere you don't have to cast very far and there is no wind, but I'm nevergoing to try to make a bamboo rod that light.Darryl from lblove@omniglobal.net Tue Aug 15 10:04:11 2000 e7FF4AG28475 Subject: guide mounting/orientation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0069F.CABCA020 Hello Listmembers, struck me. Are the majority of the rods made for right handed people? are all orientated left to right when looking down the rod from the =butt.Meaning the loop of the snake guide raises to the left and drops to the =right facing up. Would you reverse this for a person who will be fishing left =handed?Just thought I would ask for input. TIABradley ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0069F.CABCA020 Hello Listmembers, = rod and a question = handed people?I noticed that on all the rods I have(mostly = snake guides are all orientated left to right when looking down = from the butt.Meaning the loop of the snake guide raises to the = drops to the rightto meet the rod when looking down the rod from the= the guides Just thought I would ask for input. TIABradley ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0069F.CABCA020-- from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Aug 15 10:26:51 2000 e7FFQoG29506 Subject: the "minus one" fly line Organization: GOULD This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C00692.6F705AC0 I understand a new technology is about to burst forth on the scene =wherein a revolutionary new fly line is being made by incorporating =helium bubbles in its core. It is called a "Minus One weight". It's so =light that it never hits the water when it's cast and simply hovers out =there. Great for "dapping" I believe!! In fact it's so light that =there's no need for a fly rod, you can just throw it out there by hand =and this of course will put all us rod builders out of business. Thank =goodness the fish still seem to like to stay down in the water!Ray - forgive the spoof. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C00692.6F705AC0 I understand a new technology is about= weight". It's so light that it never hits the water when it's cast and = hovers out there. Great for "dapping" I believe!! In fact it's so light = there's no need for a fly rod, you can just throw it out there by hand = of course will put all us rod builders out of business. Thank goodness = still seem to like to stay down in the water!Ray - forgive the =spoof. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C00692.6F705AC0-- from gjm80301@yahoo.com Tue Aug 15 10:38:14 2000 e7FFcDG29981 2000 08:38:12 PDT Subject: Re: the "minus one" fly line I have been anxiously awaiting 10x tippet for years. I figure thatis the real answer for eliminating drag. --- Ray Gould wrote:I understand a new technology is about to burst forth on the scenewherein a revolutionary new fly line is being made by incorporatinghelium bubbles in its core. It is called a "Minus One weight". It'sso light that it never hits the water when it's cast and simplyhovers out there. Great for "dapping" I believe!! In fact it's solight that there's no need for a fly rod, you can just throw it outthere by hand and this of course will put all us rod builders outof business. Thank goodness the fish still seem to like to staydown in the water!Ray - forgive the spoof. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 10:42:58 2000 e7FFgvG00308 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: guide mounting/orientation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C006A5.884A11E0 Bradley,No. The left to right, right to left difference is just a different =style guide. The L-R is American Twist, and the R-L is English Twist. =The snake guides act as a guide for the line after it goes through the =stripper, so twist is just a matter of personal taste, not right or left =handedness. Later,Bob-----Original Message-----From: Bradley Love Date: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 10:11 AMSubject: guide mounting/orientation Hello Listmembers, struck me. Are the majority of the rods made for right handed =people?I noticed that on all the rods I have(mostly gr%^&^%e) the snake = are all orientated left to right when looking down the rod from the =butt.Meaning the loop of the snake guide raises to the left and drops to =the rightto meet the rod when looking down the rod from the butt and the = facing up. Would you reverse this for a person who will be fishing =left handed?Just thought I would ask for input. TIABradley ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C006A5.884A11E0 Bradley, The = guide for the line after it goes through the stripper, so twist is just = of personal taste, not right or left handedness. Later,Bob -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= mounting/orientationHello Listmembers, on a rod and a question right handed people?I noticed that on all the rods I have(mostly = the snake guides are all orientated left to right when looking = from the butt.Meaning the loop of the snake guide raises to = drops to the rightto meet the rod when looking down the rod from = and the guides this for a person who will be fishing left =handed?Just thought I would ask for input. TIABradley ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C006A5.884A11E0-- from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 10:46:49 2000 e7FFkmG00603 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: the "minus one" fly line This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C006A6.121556A0 Ray, If we built a rod for the Minus One line, would we have to reverse =our thinking and put the pith on the outside of the rod? :^) Bob-----Original Message-----From: Ray Gould Date: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 10:21 AMSubject: the "minus one" fly line I understand a new technology is about to burst forth on the scene =wherein a revolutionary new fly line is being made by incorporating =helium bubbles in its core. It is called a "Minus One weight". It's so =light that it never hits the water when it's cast and simply hovers out =there. Great for "dapping" I believe!! In fact it's so light that =there's no need for a fly rod, you can just throw it out there by hand =and this of course will put all us rod builders out of business. Thank =goodness the fish still seem to like to stay down in the water!Ray - forgive the spoof. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C006A6.121556A0 Ray, If we built a rod for the Minus= would we have to reverse our thinking and put the pith on the outside of = rod? :^) Bob -----Original = =rodmakers@mail.wustl.edu= Tuesday, August 15, 2000 10:21 AMSubject: the = one" fly lineI understand a new technology is = One weight". It's so light that it never hits the water when = and simply hovers out there. Great for "dapping" I = fact it's so light that there's no need for a fly rod, you can just = out there by hand and this of course will put all us rod builders = business. Thank goodness the fish still seem to like to stay down in = water! spoof. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C006A6.121556A0-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Aug 15 11:07:27 2000 e7FG7QG01581 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 09:07:22 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Ultra light lines Darryl,I've tried a few of those rods as well, and came to basically the sameconclusions. On a windless day, I can't get the "0" weight past 30 feet. Oneweights aren't much better.The lightest rods I make in bamboo are 2 weights, and even a rod that lightrequires some extra care in your workmanship. I fished 2 days last weekwith a 7'7" 2 weight bamboo, and found it to be a joy. Of course, there wasno wind. And I was fishing slow moving pools on a spring creek. Thatparticular rod does a good job with tiny dry flies out to about 50-55 feet. But that's stretching my casting limits pretty far with a 2 weight! Harry from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Aug 15 11:09:48 2000 e7FG9lG01723 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 13:09:41 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: guide mounting/orientation --------------3925D3E772626CC1FA6B07E5 Bradley,the only consideration I usually give for left or right isthe hook tender which I put one flat inside from center bottom. For aright hander, I put the tender inside left one flat and inside rightone flat for a lefty. Hopefully this makes sense?? Am I the only onethat does this, or does everyone else just center it on the bottom??I suppose you could eliminate the snake problem by using thesingle foot guides! LOL ;^)ShawnBradley Love wrote: Hello Listmembers, I am in the process of mounting guides on a rodand a questionstruck me. Are the majority of the rods made for righthanded people?I noticed that on all the rods I have(mostly gr%^&^%e)the snake guidesare all orientated left to right when looking down therod from the butt.Meaning the loop of the snake guide raises to theleft and drops to the rightto meet the rod when looking down the rod from the butt and the guidesfacing up. Would you reverse this for aperson who will be fishing left handed?Just thought I would ask forinput. TIABradley --------------3925D3E772626CC1FA6B07E5 Bradley, the only consideration I usually give for left or right is the hook tenderwhich I put one flat inside from center bottom. For a right hander, I put Hopefully this makes sense?? Am I the only one that does this, or doeseveryone else just center it on the bottom?? I suppose you could eliminate the snake problem by using the single foot ShawnBradley Love wrote: I am in the process of mounting guides on a rod and a questionstruck people?Inoticed that on all the rods I have(mostly gr%^&^%e) the snakeguidesareall orientated left to right when looking down the rod from thebutt.Meaningthe loop of the snake guide raises to the left and drops to therighttomeet the rod when looking down the rod from the butt and theguidesfacing handed?Just thought I would ask for --------------3925D3E772626CC1FA6B07E5-- from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Tue Aug 15 11:12:07 2000 e7FGC1G01888 Subject: Re:Possible virus e7FGC6G01891 Mike Biondo and I were fishing in Grayling this weekend. Mike's due homeWed. night, probably see something from him re;virus on Thur. Dennis from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Aug 15 11:31:18 2000 e7FGVHG02782 09:31:49 PDT Subject: local rodmakers you'al, i asked this about 6 mths ago and i'm goingto ask it again. are there any rodmakers or listviewers in the mid illinois region...or mid,westindiana? i would like to know that you exist. timothy troester ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from wlwalter@bellatlantic.net Tue Aug 15 12:42:36 2000 e7FHgaG05033 Subject: Re: Ultra light lines Harry, how would you land a fish in a reasonable amount of time with a two- weight bamboo? I used to fish a three weight and loved it but traded it in onrod just a touch heavier (more like a 3/4 weight) because I always felt like Iwas pushing when landing anything bigger than 12". Of course that was a 7.5-foot rod and I now use an 8' (what I traded it and another rod for). The extralength and ever so slightly heavier construction make it feel Bill Walters Harry Boyd wrote: Darryl,I've tried a few of those rods as well, and came to basically the sameconclusions. On a windless day, I can't get the "0" weight past 30 feet. Oneweights aren't much better.The lightest rods I make in bamboo are 2 weights, and even a rod thatlight requires some extra care in your workmanship. I fished 2 days lastweek with a 7'7" 2 weight bamboo, and found it to be a joy. Of course, therewas no wind. And I was fishing slow moving pools on a spring creek. Thatparticular rod does a good job with tiny dry flies out to about 50-55 feet. But that's stretching my casting limits pretty far with a 2 weight! Harry from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Aug 15 13:11:15 2000 e7FIBEG05878 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 11:11:03 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Ultra light lines Bill,I fight fish very aggressively, even on light tippets from 6-7x. These wereslow moving waters, and the fish ranged from 10-15 inches. No fight lastedover 1.5 minutes. Most were less than 30 seconds. As soon as I hook thefish, I strip in all but about 8 feet of line. I then "flip" the fish over severaltimes in succession to disorient them, and remove the hook quickly withhemostats while never touching the fish.Let me make a proviso here. This is a heavily stocked stream, and almostevery fish in the stream looks just alike. In faster waters, while fishing forlarger fish, I usually do battle with a fast action 8' 5 weight. I will admit thatthis spring I caught several 19-20" fish on the same two-weight rod, butagain, fought them very quickly. In medium fast streams, I can land almostany trout under 20" in less than a minute.A light rod with a limber tip allows one to test the tippet to its limits. Ifyour knots are strong, it is surprisingly difficult to break tippet that testsat 3.5 lbs with a 2 weight rod. If you place most of the bend in the tip of therod, you wonder if the rod is going to break before 5x tippet does. Using therod to its full advantage makes things much less difficult on the fish. Harry Bill Walters wrote: Harry, how would you land a fish in a reasonable amount of time with a two- weight bamboo? from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 13:32:36 2000 e7FIWZG06534 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Ultra light lines Bill,I commonly use a 6' for a 2. With the shorter rod, I have the leveradvantage over the fish, and have no trouble landing a good sized fish on itin a very short time. I usually fish small waters for small fish with the 2wts, but did hang into a 23.5" bow in SE Oklahoma with my 6' 2wt and thefight was over before he knew what was happening. I had more control overthe fish than I would have with a longer rod. I think we had thisdiscussion on here at one time, but the only disadvantage to the short rodsis that mending line on the water is more difficult, but the big advantageis the one you have over the fish in the control aspect. Longer 2wts?Well, I don't like to build them over 6'6", because the lever advantage islost and the fight gets longer... my opinion only, of course. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Ultra light lines Harry, how would you land a fish in a reasonable amount of time with atwo- weight bamboo? I used to fish a three weight and loved it but traded itin on rod just a touch heavier (more like a 3/4 weight) because I alwaysfelt like I was pushing when landing anything bigger than 12". Of coursethat was a 7.5- foot rod and I now use an 8' (what I traded it and anotherrod for). The extra length and ever so slightly heavier construction make itfeel Bill Walters Harry Boyd wrote: Darryl,I've tried a few of those rods as well, and came to basically thesame conclusions. On a windless day, I can't get the "0" weight past 30feet. One weights aren't much better.The lightest rods I make in bamboo are 2 weights, and even a rod thatlight requires some extra care in your workmanship. I fished 2 days lastweek with a 7'7" 2 weight bamboo, and found it to be a joy. Of course,there was no wind. And I was fishing slow moving pools on a spring creek.That particular rod does a good job with tiny dry flies out to about 50-55feet. But that's stretching my casting limits pretty far with a 2 weight! Harry from med013733@nacom.es Tue Aug 15 13:40:20 2000 e7FIeIG06898 +0200 Subject: Unsuscribe This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C006F8.7546BC80 ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C006F8.7546BC80 ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C006F8.7546BC80-- from tfbinn@mindspring.com Tue Aug 15 13:53:44 2000 e7FIriG07409 Subject: Waynes new book The UPS guy just delivered Waynes new book. For anyone out there who'sinterested in adding to their rod-building library, BUY THIS BOOK!Now I'm not into book reviews, nor do I have any personal or financialinvolvment here, and I bought his earlier book years ago, but this is agreat book. Mucho improved over the first version. I dearly love ALL therecent rod building books but this one is destined to be my favorite.All IMHO.Winston Binney from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue Aug 15 13:59:18 2000 e7FIxHG07729 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:59:15 -0400 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Waynes new book Hard to imagine how it could be substantially improved over the earlierversion, that was so good. Please describe the improvements. -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:25 AM Subject: Waynes new book The UPS guy just delivered Waynes new book. For anyone out there who'sinterested in adding to their rod-building library, BUY THIS BOOK!Now I'm not into book reviews, nor do I have any personal or financialinvolvment here, and I bought his earlier book years ago, but this is agreat book. Mucho improved over the first version. I dearly love ALL therecent rod building books but this one is destined to be my favorite.All IMHO.Winston Binney from tfbinn@mindspring.com Tue Aug 15 14:09:28 2000 e7FJ9SG08172 Subject: Re: Waynes new book Seth,More and better pictures, more and clearer diagrams, much new info, betterlay-out and organization, new tool info (how to make a wood bodied scrapercaught my eye) all in all an easier read than the original. I haven't hadtime to much more than leaf through it but I was immeadiately impressedwiththe changes. from jfoster@gte.net Tue Aug 15 14:23:12 2000 e7FJNBG08714 Subject: ms virus creator="4D4F5353" Hi RickThanks for the warning.. i have deleted all the virus files from thearchives, when i finally get around to posting them. Mike B. is incharge of the listproc.. jerry PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. It would also help if you didn't include an entire copy of the messageyou are responding to in your responses..that just puts multiple copiesof any anomaly in the files for someone else to deal with. from rafick@3riversweb.net Tue Aug 15 15:36:40 2000 e7FKadG12109 Subject: ms virus PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Tue Aug 15 15:36:46 2000 e7FKajG12118 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 21:36:39 +0100 Subject: Re: the "minus one" fly line Where can I buy one......... from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Aug 15 15:40:03 2000 e7FKe3G12455 13:43:01 PDT Subject: Re: ms virus i really don't think this is necessary! --- "R.A.Fick" wrote:PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if thepres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly Rods ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail _ Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from brewer@teleport.com Tue Aug 15 15:58:58 2000 e7FKwvG13305 "taliesin" 13:58:50 2000 Subject: Re: ms virus If you use a particular technology, yet do not understand it, it seems to methat you will be forced to rely on others to keep you from harm's way. I amnot entirely sure what your message is implying, but I suggest that you readup on attached document worms and viruses if you are going to use e-mail.Then perhaps you will have a better grasp of the topic. Your approach reminds me of someone complaining that every time they usealathe, the get pulled into the chuck. With a little education it might occurto them to remove their necktie. -Randy ----- Original Message ----- Subject: ms virus PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Aug 15 16:06:44 2000 e7FL6hG13733 "rod 'akers" Subject: Re: ms virus It wasn't R.A. that was posting that. He was inquiring about an "editorialcomment" from an earlier post. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: ms virus i really don't think this is necessary! --- "R.A.Fick" wrote:PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if thepres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly Rods ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from ejdrexler@hotmail.com Tue Aug 15 16:36:24 2000 e7FLaNG15149 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:36:17 -0700 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: ferrule removal FILETIME=[D869F130:01C00700] Dear list members,is there anybody out there who has got a good recipe for removing a crooked ferrule which has been glued to the rod blank with two part epoxy. Thanks Best Er- ic________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from ejdrexler@hotmail.com Tue Aug 15 16:52:40 2000 e7FLqeG15813 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 14:52:34 -0700 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Company Snakeguides.com FILETIME=[1E9A5120:01C00703] Dear rodmakers, I asked a couple weeks ago for a good source of agate stripping guides. Some members of the list recommended Mr. McCoy of snakeguides.com. I got in contact with him right away and ordered a bigger amount of snakes, strippers, etc. After that he e-mailed back a couple times concerning the order, but lately when I asked him when it finally can be shipped, no response. Also his web-site is not available any longer. Does anybody know what's going on, or what happened to Mr. McCoy? Does anybody have a phone number of him so I can call him to make sure that he is still out there? Thanks Er- ic________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from dnorl@uswest.net Tue Aug 15 16:52:44 2000 e7FLqiG15819 (63.228.4.237) Subject: Bob Maulucci This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C006DA.AE533620 Bob,Cant't believe I sent the envelope without the check. I think I've lost =it. Wife says I never had it! I'ts in the Mail (again)Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C006DA.AE533620 Bob,Cant't believe I sent the envelope= Mail (again)Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C006DA.AE533620-- from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 17:01:12 2000 e7FM1BG16337 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: ferrule removal EJ,Just heat it up like you would if applied with ferrule cement. You haveto get it quite a bit hotter, but if you'll watch, there will be a smalltrail of smoke start to come out of the ferrule. When you see that, you canremove it easily. Be sure to use a ferrule clamp (you can make one out ofhardwood, very easily) cause if you try a vise, you'll almost inevitablydistort your ferrule. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: ferrule removal Dear list members,is there anybody out there who has got a good recipe for removing acrookedferrule which has been glued to the rod blank with two part epoxy. Thanks Best Er- ic________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 17:11:15 2000 e7FMBEG16862 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:05:36 -0500 Subject: Mistakes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_020F_01C006DB.C4AAB460 Someone on the list wrote me this morning (no need to say who) and =shared a mistake they had made on their most recent rod... well, just so =you guys that are just starting out don't get disgusted with your flaws, =it happens to everyone... I mean EVERYONE! Here is a story I shared =with him, just to let the makers that are young to the craft know that =the best laid plans of mice and rodmakers... etc, etc, etc.Sometimes I concentrate so much on my finish that I forget something =else... For instance. Had a rod a couple of months ago, Oh, the finish =looked just like a coat of glass on it... not a flaw anywhere. The grip =was probably the best cork I had ever had, again, flawless... the filler =was a beautiful piece of burl maple that I turned for my cap and rings, =which didn't have even so much as a micro-scratch on them anywhere. I =finished final polishing on it, and my oldest son came to visit, picked =it up, and said "What weight rod it this, Dad?" I said, " A six" =Looking puzzled... I say,"It's written on the shaft..." He says, "Dad, =there isn't ANTYHING written on the shaft..." Sure enough, I had =applied, sanded and polished 5 coats of polyurethane on this rod... =polished to perfection, and forgotten to do my script on the shaft, =which I usually do after the first coat. Off in search of my next mistake....Bob ------=_NextPart_000_020F_01C006DB.C4AAB460 Guys, the = this morning (no need to say who) and shared a mistake they had made on = most recent rod... well, just so you guys that are just starting out = disgusted with your flaws, it happens to everyone... I mean = young to the craft know that the best laid plans of mice= rodmakers... etc, etc, etc. Sometimes I concentrate so much on my finish = finish looked just like a coat of glass on it... not a flaw = grip was probably the best cork I had ever had, again, flawless... the = was a beautiful piece of burl maple that I turned for my cap and rings, = final polishing on it, and my oldest son came to visit, picked it up, = I had applied, sanded and polished 5 coats of polyurethane on this = polished to perfection, and forgotten to do my script on the shaft, = usually do after the first coat. mistake....Bob ------=_NextPart_000_020F_01C006DB.C4AAB460-- from caneman@clnk.com Tue Aug 15 17:21:30 2000 e7FMLTG17265 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:15:46 -0500 Subject: Wolf Hair Dubbing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_022C_01C006DD.2FE5C3E0 List,I know this is a little off subject, but not too far. I mean, ya =gotta have flies to fish on your rods... Anyways, I noticed that Anglers =Workshop is now selling a Wolf Hair Dubbing... Has anyone ever used =this? If so, would you like some??? I have a vacuum cleaner full of it =every two days and a brush full of it constantly (yes, I have a hybrid =gray wolf that lives IN the house with me, and I have wolf hair = Seriously, anyone who uses this stuff, if you want it, let me know, = Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_022C_01C006DD.2FE5C3E0 List, noticed that Anglers Workshop is now selling a Wolf Hair Dubbing... Has = cleaner full of it every two days and a brush full of it constantly = a hybrid gray wolf that lives IN the house with me, and I have wolf hair = Later,Bob ------=_NextPart_000_022C_01C006DD.2FE5C3E0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Aug 15 17:27:24 2000 e7FMRNG17533 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:25:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Waynes new book I've waited since Jan., and it was well worth it ! I now have both the videoand the book, and can only say it's a classic piece of work ! Kudos' Wayne, GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Waynes new book The UPS guy just delivered Waynes new book. For anyone out there who'sinterested in adding to their rod-building library, BUY THIS BOOK!Now I'm not into book reviews, nor do I have any personal or financialinvolvment here, and I bought his earlier book years ago, but this is agreat book. Mucho improved over the first version. I dearly love ALL therecent rod building books but this one is destined to be my favorite.All IMHO.Winston Binney from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Aug 15 17:28:57 2000 e7FMSuG17662 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:27:13 -0500 "rod 'akers" Subject: Re: ms virus Me neither ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: ms virus i really don't think this is necessary! --- "R.A.Fick" wrote:PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if thepres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly Rods ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from tklein@amgen.com Tue Aug 15 18:45:58 2000 e7FNjvG19643 Subject: Knurling question O.K., I'm stumped! I've got a pair of 25 TPI spiral knurls (30 degree) that came with theknurling tool holder I purchased. I was playing around with them a littlethe other night, and thought I'd try a technique that Bob Nunley hadmentioned might work to imitate a "rope" type knurl that is often seen oncommercial reelseat hardware. The suggestion involved using only 1 of theknurls, rather than the pair. When I removed the second knurl, I expected to see exactly one half of theknurl pattern I got when using both. That's not what happened though. I gotthe pattern I expected; 30 degree diagonal lines, but it was much finer nowthan it was with both (I'd guess that I've got at least double the number oflines, maybe even triple. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 75 linesper inch). I just can't seem to visualize what's physically going on to make the knurlso much finer. Since the resulting lines are finer than the knurl itself,the cutting edges are obviously overlapping on each revolution of the stock,but the pattern is very even and doesn't seem to vary when I changepressure. I can't figure out how removing one knurl would change the pitchbeing cut by the other. Help?! (25 TPI knurls are far too coarse to use on reelseat hardware. As a sidequestion, what do most of you use?) ---Timx11512 from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Aug 15 19:18:04 2000 e7G0I1G20416 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:17:45 +0800 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:17:43 +0800 Subject: Re: ms virus What was this for? At 03:39 PM 8/15/00 -0500, R.A.Fick wrote:PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from rafick@3riversweb.net Tue Aug 15 19:26:36 2000 e7G0QZG20685 Subject: Fw: ms virus ALL I wrote: what the H are you talking about, in response to jerry foster's, PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it(quote) I gather that Jerry Foster doesn't like microsoft, beyond that I'mconfused. R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from martinj@aa.net Tue Aug 15 19:29:23 2000 e7G0TMG20812 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:29:20 -0700 Subject: RE: Knurling question have you played around with the amount of tension that ou have no thework?I would try increasing it a bit at a time and see if it goes away. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Knurling question O.K., I'm stumped! I've got a pair of 25 TPI spiral knurls (30 degree) that came with theknurling tool holder I purchased. I was playing around with them a littlethe other night, and thought I'd try a technique that Bob Nunley hadmentioned might work to imitate a "rope" type knurl that is often seen oncommercial reelseat hardware. The suggestion involved using only 1 of theknurls, rather than the pair. When I removed the second knurl, I expected to see exactly one half of theknurl pattern I got when using both. That's not what happened though. I gotthe pattern I expected; 30 degree diagonal lines, but it was much finer nowthan it was with both (I'd guess that I've got at least double the number oflines, maybe even triple. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 75 linesper inch). I just can't seem to visualize what's physically going on to make the knurlso much finer. Since the resulting lines are finer than the knurl itself,the cutting edges are obviously overlapping on each revolution of the stock,but the pattern is very even and doesn't seem to vary when I changepressure. I can't figure out how removing one knurl would change the pitchbeing cut by the other. Help?! (25 TPI knurls are far too coarse to use on reelseat hardware. As a sidequestion, what do most of you use?) ---Timx11512 from Nodewrrior@aol.com Tue Aug 15 20:09:00 2000 e7G18xG22645 Subject: Re: Mistakes Hey, Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from lblove@omniglobal.net Tue Aug 15 20:17:10 2000 e7G1HAG22895 "'Rodmakers List'" Subject: Re: Knurling question Tim I think your tool is splitting the lead (25) to account for the 50 or 75. you may wish to try to "start" the tool by hand, engage the knurling headintothe work piece gently, then rock the chuck back and forth(1/8 to 1/4rotation)until you get a nice engagement then put a little more pressure on the toolandagain rock the chuck back and forth. Repeat the process until there is anice pattern.After you get a nice looking pattern, start up the lathe(nice and slow) andusecopious amounts of cutting oil. oh make sure that the teeth are nice and clean with no klingons(technicalmachining term)or build up in the wheel. One more suggestion get the tool(wheel) oncenterline of the spindle,if the tool is not on center line there will be some really weirdstresses/pressure on themachine and the work piece. hope this helps Bradley ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Knurling question have you played around with the amount of tension that ou have no thework?I would try increasing it a bit at a time and see if it goes away. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 4:46 PM Subject: Knurling question O.K., I'm stumped! I've got a pair of 25 TPI spiral knurls (30 degree) that came with theknurling tool holder I purchased. I was playing around with them a little> theother night, and thought I'd try a technique that Bob Nunley hadmentioned might work to imitate a "rope" type knurl that is often seen oncommercial reelseat hardware. The suggestion involved using only 1 of theknurls, rather than the pair. When I removed the second knurl, I expected to see exactly one half of theknurl pattern I got when using both. That's not what happened though. Igotthe pattern I expected; 30 degree diagonal lines, but it was much finernowthan it was with both (I'd guess that I've got at least double the numberoflines, maybe even triple. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 75 linesper inch). I just can't seem to visualize what's physically going on to make theknurlso much finer. Since the resulting lines are finer than the knurl itself,the cutting edges are obviously overlapping on each revolution of thestock,but the pattern is very even and doesn't seem to vary when I changepressure. I can't figure out how removing one knurl would change the pitchbeing cut by the other. Help?! (25 TPI knurls are far too coarse to use on reelseat hardware. As a sidequestion, what do most of you use?) ---Timx11512 from LECLAIR123@aol.com Tue Aug 15 20:37:55 2000 e7G1bsG23508 Subject: Re: Knurling question In a message dated 08/15/2000 7:46:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tklein@amgen.com writes: Tim, your problem is that you don't have the cross slide locked, to prevent it from moving left or right. There should be asmall four sided bolt on the right side/top of the saddle. Tightenthis with a wrench and then try it again. Don't run the lathe very fast, you should use the back gears, so the piece will turn slowly. Hope this helps, Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from sats@gte.net Tue Aug 15 20:41:16 2000 e7G1fFG23662 Subject: Chrome plains Anyone out there ever chrome the bottom of their plain? I live in a High humidity envirnnment (Fl.) and am constantly fighting rust. Iusually coat the bottom of a plane with candle wax and 'spit shine' it to coverthe entire surface. But I was wondering, would a chrome bottom be flat? It should hold out for along time. I'm sure you could even get one chromed with a .003 slot downthemiddle. Any thoughts? ----------------------------Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Florida(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netMeet me at http://home1.gte.net/sats from flytyr@southshore.com Tue Aug 15 20:50:32 2000 e7G1oVG24086 Subject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from HalManas@aol.com Tue Aug 15 20:54:49 2000 e7G1smG24293 Subject: Binders A few days ago someone asked about a commercial source for binders, 4 string ones I think. I really don't want to build a binder, but I would like to have one. Does anyone know of a source? Hal from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Aug 15 21:00:33 2000 e7G20WG24630 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 20:58:20 -0500 Subject: Re: Chrome plains Chroming cast iron is really tricky, as it can just dissolve the iron whenin the bath ! To start with, the current must be reversed for 30 seconds,and this switched to plus current, at the proper current for the squareinches to be chromed. Also Chrome does funny things on corners, building upon edges, more than on a flat area. The best way to do this is to chrome itheavier, say .010", and have it surface ground to perfect flatness. Ofcourse it should also be perfectly flat before chroming. Your problem will be finding a chrome shop to take on such a small job. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Chrome plains Anyone out there ever chrome the bottom of their plain? I live in a High humidity envirnnment (Fl.) and am constantly fightingrust. Iusually coat the bottom of a plane with candle wax and 'spit shine' it tocoverthe entire surface. But I was wondering, would a chrome bottom be flat? It should hold out long time. I'm sure you could even get one chromed with a .003 slot downthemiddle. Any thoughts? ----------------------------Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Florida(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netMeet me at http://home1.gte.net/sats from tcwege@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 15 21:03:08 2000 e7G237G24787 +0000 Subject: Goldenwitch Visit Hi List,Just got back from a trip to PA. Had the opportunity to stop by Goldenwitchand visit with Russ. What a nice guy and very helpful. Stayed open late toaccommodate my schedule and put up with a ton of rookie questions. Russrunsa very neat, organized, and plain cool facility. I was impressed. Justthought I'd pass on my impressions.Tilo from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Aug 15 21:11:39 2000 e7G2BcG25350 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: Pacific bay I'm about to order some Pacific Bay stripping guides and perhaps some reelseats. Can anyone suggest a reputable on-line store to order from? Please reply off list. Many thanks, Richard from lblove@omniglobal.net Tue Aug 15 21:25:17 2000 e7G2PGG25867 Subject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put little XXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..." needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about 12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reel seat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a pretty cork handle Bradley ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from mstevens@ptdprolog.net Tue Aug 15 21:45:26 2000 e7G2jPG26315 (204.186.172.39) Subject: re: Knurling question Tim, Your problem with the knurls is the diameter of the stock to be knurled.There are two types of knurls, circular pitch and diametric pitch. In thelater the knurls are designed to work on fractional stock in 64ths or 32ndsetc. In circular pitch you just have to find what diameter will work bytrial and error. Think of a set of gears. The diameters and pitch of theteeth have to be right or they won't work. What you are doing with a knurlis making a set of gears. The diameter has to be right. I have made 1000's of knurled parts and there are a lot of tricks but thebasic is to get the diameter right to match the knurls pitch. Hope this helps. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307C Effort PA 18330 610 681 5670 http://www.mikestevens.com http://www.OldTackle.com mstevens@ptdprolog.net mstevens@oldtackle.com Collector of Heddon Bamboo rodsJ.A. Coxe baitcasting reelsHeddon River Runt Spooks Maker of Fine Sights for Antique Single Shot TargetRifles from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Aug 15 22:42:42 2000 e7G3geG27340 Mail VirusWall NT); Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:41:40 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: RE: Chrome plains Hi Terry,I'd keep the plane in an airtight container with some silicagel to keep it nice and dry. And besides, what is your excuse for lettingyour plane sit idle for long enough to get rusty :) Mike Anyone out there ever chrome the bottom of their plain? I live in a High humidity envirnnment (Fl.) and am constantly fighting rust. Any thoughts? from davidhray@mindspring.com Tue Aug 15 22:50:18 2000 e7G3oHG27623 Subject: Great Smoky Mountain Gathering Just wanted to let everyone know about a Bamboo Rod Gathering in the Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge, Townsend Tennessee area. It will be held at the Wonderland Hotel, just a couple of miles from the Little River, on September 22-24. Some may not be able to make it toRoscoe NY and might be able to come to this one. Friday Night - Rod Casting Saturday - some Demos and an auction for the endowment for Fisheries Scholarships in the Great Smoky Mtn. Nat'l Park. (Please bring anything to donate to the endowment for the auction.) Sunday - Fishing and talking. Rooms at the Wonderland are $50 for up to 4 people. 1-877-428-0779 There will be a small attendance fee to go to the fisheries endowment. David H. Ray from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Aug 16 01:16:25 2000 e7G6GOG00731 Tue, 15 Aug 2000 23:16:21 -0700 Subject: Re: Great Smoky Mountain Gathering Sounds like a great time, David. One of my favorite spots on earth isTownsend. Wish I could make it, but alas, one cannot do everything.... Harry Davidhray wrote: Just wanted to let everyone know about a Bamboo Rod Gathering in theGatlinburg, Pigeon Forge, Townsend Tennessee area. It will be held at the Wonderland Hotel, just a couple of miles from theLittle River, on September 22-24. Some may not be able to make it toRoscoeNY and might be able to come to this one. Friday Night - Rod Casting Saturday - some Demos and an auction for the endowment for FisheriesScholarships in the Great Smoky Mtn. Nat'l Park. (Please bring anything todonate to the endowment for the auction.) Sunday - Fishing and talking. Rooms at the Wonderland are $50 for up to 4 people. 1-877-428-0779 There will be a small attendance fee to go to the fisheries endowment. David H. Ray --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from timklein@uswest.net Wed Aug 16 01:39:23 2000 e7G6dHG01201 (63.225.127.154) Subject: Re: Knurling question Let me try this again because I think my question has been misunderstood. I have a knurl holder that holds one knurl on either side of the stock; onedirectly in front, the other directly in back. When I use the knurls as a pair, I get a perfect pattern as I would expect.I'm using cutting oil, the pressure is correct (I'm certain of this becauseI'm actually comparing the resulting diameter of my knurled stock to a chart from a machining handbook), and my speed is set correctly for knurling thematerial I'm using (Aluminum for this test). Everything is hunky dory. I geta normal diamond shaped pattern: XXXXXX If I remove the back knurl, without making any changes to the one in front,I would expect to see only half of this pattern. Using the X's above, Ishould see only the / / / / / / part of the pattern or the \ \ \ \ \ \ . What happens though is a compressed pattern: //////////// . I ran a couple of more tests tonight with different diameter stock, and Iturned the lathe by hand (speed shouldn't have any effect on the pattern,though it will affect the quality of the knurl. I confirmed this by tryingseveral different speeds from hand turning all the way up to normal cuttingspeeds.) I got the same results as before; Normal pattern with two knurls,1/2 the pattern highly compressed with only 1 knurl. single knurl isn't aligning with the lines from it's earlier revolution (Ihope that makes sense). What happens is, in a single revolution I get thehalf pattern I would expect. The second revolution cuts lines in a differentspot than the first (I'm sure this is simply a function of stock diameter toknurl diameter), the third revolution cuts more, and the fourth revolutioncompletes the pattern. I guess the real question is; Why, when you add a second knurl, does thepattern always line up in a single revolution regardless of the diameter ofthe stock? Tonight I locked my front knurl in place, and hand cranked the pattern. Withthe other hand, I cranked the back knurl into position while still turningthe spindle by hand. As soon as the back knurl hit the stock, a "normal"knurl pattern developed. The only possible conclusion I've come up with at this point is that asingle knurl is deflecting the stock a small amount, whereas my setup with aknurl on either side keeps the stock from flexing. I don't believe this isit though. My original knurl holder had both knurls on the front anddeflected the stock noticeably (that's why I switched to the straddlestyle). I never got an overlapping pattern, despite the deflection.Unfortunately, I never tried a single knurl on that holder. (If someone withthis style holder has a couple of minutes, I'd be interested in hearing whathappens when you remove one of the knurls) I'm sure there is a reasonable explanation, but I'm still stumped. ---Tim from iank@ts.co.nz Wed Aug 16 02:10:33 2000 e7G7APG01761 Subject: Re: Mistakes Tony , I have one of those rods also , they cast really well and mine has virtuallyno detectible spine as well. I do like the paint on the enamel side trick though Ian Kearney----- Original Message ----- Subject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from bh887@lafn.org Wed Aug 16 03:16:36 2000 e7G8GZG02764 forged)) Subject: Re: Mistakes Not so bad as my pro gunsmith friend who handed me my rebarrelled andreblued action clearly marked "8mm-'06". Only trouble is the action was an"8mm-'06 IMPROVED". Oh well, I know what it is! But its a lot easierfixing the rod mismark! Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Mistakes Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from jfreeman@cyberport.com Wed Aug 16 05:12:15 2000 e7GACEG04170 Subject: Re: the "minus one" fly line Jerry, I didn't know you were a masochist! What blew me away was when I tried my first size 28 fly and found out 6xwouldn't go through the eye! Looked like hawser. Hell, I can remember whenwe thought an 18 was itty bitty. Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: the "minus one" fly line I have been anxiously awaiting 10x tippet for years. I figure thatis the real answer for eliminating drag. --- Ray Gould wrote:I understand a new technology is about to burst forth on the scenewherein a revolutionary new fly line is being made by incorporatinghelium bubbles in its core. It is called a "Minus One weight". It'sso light that it never hits the water when it's cast and simplyhovers out there. Great for "dapping" I believe!! In fact it's solight that there's no need for a fly rod, you can just throw it outthere by hand and this of course will put all us rod builders outof business. Thank goodness the fish still seem to like to staydown in the water!Ray - forgive the spoof. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from jlintvet@mediaone.net Wed Aug 16 06:33:20 2000 e7GBXJG05377 Subject: Re: Mistakes Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sanding blockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ... theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from bob@downandacross.com Wed Aug 16 07:04:05 2000 e7GC44G06024 Subject: Re: Binders --=====================_6269258==_.ALT Here are two binders sold commercially:Powered 4 stringDennis Crockett 916-686-53049699 Webb StreetElk Grove Ca 95624orthe Bellinger, modified Garrison from GoldenWitch.I have the Bellinger one from GW and I love it. I posted the request about the 4 string because after the first quad I finished, I think I may build several more. I suppose the 4 string binder would be more suitable for quadrates.Bob At 09:54 PM 8/15/00 -0400, you wrote:A few days ago someone asked about a commercial source for binders,4string ones I think. I really don't want to build a binder, but I would liketo have one. Does anyone know of a source? Hal Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_6269258==_.ALT Here are two binders sold commercially:Powered 4 string 9699 Webb StreetElk Grove Ca 95624orthe Bellinger, modified Garrison from GoldenWitch. I have the Bellinger one from GW and I love it. I posted the requestabout the 4 string because after the first quad I finished, I think I maybuild several more. I suppose the 4 string binder would be more suitable Bob At 09:54 PM 8/15/00 -0400, you wrote: asked about a commercial source for binders, 4 would like Hal Bob Maulucci==================================================downandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_6269258==_.ALT-- from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Aug 16 07:07:29 2000 e7GC7SG06183 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:12:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Mistakes Ian,I found the same thing on this tip, it had little to no spine. Maybe wediscovered something new.I use a red felt tip marker to mark the enamel side.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ian Kearney wrote: Tony , I have one of those rods also , they cast really well and mine has virtuallyno detectible spine as well. I do like the paint on the enamel side trick though Ian Kearney----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 1:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from petermckean@netspace.net.au Wed Aug 16 07:09:52 2000 e7GC9oG06346 Subject: Re: ms virus Organization: vet Thanks, Tim Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: ms virus i really don't think this is necessary! --- "R.A.Fick" wrote:PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if thepres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it. What the H are you talking about? R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly Rods ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from anglport@con2.com Wed Aug 16 08:04:09 2000 e7GD48G07472 Subject: Re: Knurling question Tim,I'm certainly no accomplished machinist, but have you got the ability tojury-rig some sort of ball-bearing support that could sit behind theknurling- point and support it the way the second knurl does? That'dcertainly either rule out the deflection possibility or cure the problem.I'm thinking of something along the lines of a knurl-holder with 2bearings substituted for the knurls, giving you a three-point contact: theknurl and the two ball bearings.Art At 12:39 AM 08/16/2000 -0600, Tim Klein wrote:Let me try this again because I think my question has been misunderstood. I have a knurl holder that holds one knurl on either side of the stock; onedirectly in front, the other directly in back. When I use the knurls as a pair, I get a perfect pattern as I would expect.I'm using cutting oil, the pressure is correct (I'm certain of this becauseI'm actually comparing the resulting diameter of my knurled stock to achart from a machining handbook), and my speed is set correctly for knurling thematerial I'm using (Aluminum for this test). Everything is hunky dory. I geta normal diamond shaped pattern: XXXXXX If I remove the back knurl, without making any changes to the one in front,I would expect to see only half of this pattern. Using the X's above, Ishould see only the / / / / / / part of the pattern or the \ \ \ \ \ \ . What happens though is a compressed pattern: //////////// . I ran a couple of more tests tonight with different diameter stock, and Iturned the lathe by hand (speed shouldn't have any effect on the pattern,though it will affect the quality of the knurl. I confirmed this by tryingseveral different speeds from hand turning all the way up to normal cuttingspeeds.) I got the same results as before; Normal pattern with two knurls,1/2 the pattern highly compressed with only 1 knurl. single knurl isn't aligning with the lines from it's earlier revolution (Ihope that makes sense). What happens is, in a single revolution I get thehalf pattern I would expect. The second revolution cuts lines in a differentspot than the first (I'm sure this is simply a function of stock diameter toknurl diameter), the third revolution cuts more, and the fourth revolutioncompletes the pattern. I guess the real question is; Why, when you add a second knurl, does thepattern always line up in a single revolution regardless of the diameter ofthe stock? Tonight I locked my front knurl in place, and hand cranked the pattern. Withthe other hand, I cranked the back knurl into position while still turningthe spindle by hand. As soon as the back knurl hit the stock, a "normal"knurl pattern developed. The only possible conclusion I've come up with at this point is that asingle knurl is deflecting the stock a small amount, whereas my setup withaknurl on either side keeps the stock from flexing. I don't believe this isit though. My original knurl holder had both knurls on the front anddeflected the stock noticeably (that's why I switched to the straddlestyle). I never got an overlapping pattern, despite the deflection.Unfortunately, I never tried a single knurl on that holder. (If someone withthis style holder has a couple of minutes, I'd be interested in hearing whathappens when you remove one of the knurls) I'm sure there is a reasonable explanation, but I'm still stumped. ---Tim from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Aug 16 08:16:49 2000 e7GDGmG08351 Subject: Re: Knurling question The easiest was to overcome this problem is to buy a second set of Knurls(same size and manufacture) and simply use half of each pair.Regards,Gary H. At 09:03 AM 8/16/00 -0400, Art Port wrote:Tim,I'm certainly no accomplished machinist, but have you got the ability tojury-rig some sort of ball-bearing support that could sit behind theknurling-point and support it the way the second knurl does? That'dcertainly either rule out the deflection possibility or cure the problem.I'm thinking of something along the lines of a knurl-holder with 2bearings substituted for the knurls, giving you a three- point contact: theknurl and the two ball bearings.Art from anglport@con2.com Wed Aug 16 08:17:48 2000 e7GDHlG08474 Subject: Re: Mistakes Jeez, guys, the worst disaster I've had so far was that the binder stringcaught and snapped off the top 6" of a tip I was glue-binding. I thoughtI'd tear my hair out over that one. The air ran blue for several hours inthe shop. Sometimes it helps to find that others are human and we all makemistakes. You still feel stupid, but not SO stupid!Laughing helps, I guess,Art At 07:35 AM 08/16/2000 -0700, Jon Lintvet wrote:Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sanding blockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ... theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message -----From: "Bradley Love" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:22 PMSubject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Aug 16 08:26:46 2000 e7GDQkG08949 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 08:25:01 -0500 "rodmakers" Subject: Re: Knurling question Yes, this or a live center support in the tail stock, or coupled with asteady rest. I have two different knurling tools, but none have a removableroller. I'm at a loss to explain what's going on. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Knurling question Tim,I'm certainly no accomplished machinist, but have you got the ability tojury-rig some sort of ball-bearing support that could sit behind theknurling- point and support it the way the second knurl does? That'dcertainly either rule out the deflection possibility or cure the problem.I'm thinking of something along the lines of a knurl-holder with 2bearings substituted for the knurls, giving you a three-point contact: theknurl and the two ball bearings.Art At 12:39 AM 08/16/2000 -0600, Tim Klein wrote:Let me try this again because I think my question has beenmisunderstood. I have a knurl holder that holds one knurl on either side of the stock;onedirectly in front, the other directly in back. When I use the knurls as a pair, I get a perfect pattern as I wouldexpect.I'm using cutting oil, the pressure is correct (I'm certain of thisbecauseI'm actually comparing the resulting diameter of my knurled stock to achart from a machining handbook), and my speed is set correctly for knurlingthematerial I'm using (Aluminum for this test). Everything is hunky dory. Igeta normal diamond shaped pattern: XXXXXX If I remove the back knurl, without making any changes to the one infront,I would expect to see only half of this pattern. Using the X's above, Ishould see only the / / / / / / part of the pattern or the \ \ \ \ \ \ . What happens though is a compressed pattern: //////////// . I ran a couple of more tests tonight with different diameter stock, and Iturned the lathe by hand (speed shouldn't have any effect on the pattern,though it will affect the quality of the knurl. I confirmed this bytryingseveral different speeds from hand turning all the way up to normalcuttingspeeds.) I got the same results as before; Normal pattern with twoknurls,1/2 the pattern highly compressed with only 1 knurl. single knurl isn't aligning with the lines from it's earlier revolution(Ihope that makes sense). What happens is, in a single revolution I get thehalf pattern I would expect. The second revolution cuts lines in adifferentspot than the first (I'm sure this is simply a function of stock diametertoknurl diameter), the third revolution cuts more, and the fourthrevolutioncompletes the pattern. I guess the real question is; Why, when you add a second knurl, does thepattern always line up in a single revolution regardless of the diameterofthe stock? Tonight I locked my front knurl in place, and hand cranked the pattern.Withthe other hand, I cranked the back knurl into position while stillturningthe spindle by hand. As soon as the back knurl hit the stock, a "normal"knurl pattern developed. The only possible conclusion I've come up with at this point is that asingle knurl is deflecting the stock a small amount, whereas my setupwith aknurl on either side keeps the stock from flexing. I don't believe thisisit though. My original knurl holder had both knurls on the front anddeflected the stock noticeably (that's why I switched to the straddlestyle). I never got an overlapping pattern, despite the deflection.Unfortunately, I never tried a single knurl on that holder. (If someonewiththis style holder has a couple of minutes, I'd be interested in hearingwhathappens when you remove one of the knurls) I'm sure there is a reasonable explanation, but I'm still stumped. ---Tim from jfoster@gte.net Wed Aug 16 09:19:11 2000 e7GEJBG10810 Subject: hello creator="4D4F5353" Hi Larry It was great seeing you also, i'm glad someone has a sense of humor.. rejerry from dhaftel@att.com Wed Aug 16 09:55:25 2000 e7GEtFG12741 KAA07262; (8.8.8+Sun/ATTEMS-1.4.1 sol2) (5.5.2652.35) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Mistakes I split the tip section on my first effort while trying to heat straightenat midnight one Friday night. I think you could have heard me screaming allthe way across town! Dennis -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Mistakes Jeez, guys, the worst disaster I've had so far was that the binder stringcaught and snapped off the top 6" of a tip I was glue-binding. I thoughtI'd tear my hair out over that one. The air ran blue for several hours inthe shop. Sometimes it helps to find that others are human and we all makemistakes. You still feel stupid, but not SO stupid!Laughing helps, I guess,Art At 07:35 AM 08/16/2000 -0700, Jon Lintvet wrote:Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sandingblockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ... theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message -----From: "Bradley Love" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:22 PMSubject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from brewer@teleport.com Wed Aug 16 10:03:37 2000 e7GF3aG13294 "taliesin" 08:03:25 2000Message-ID: Subject: Re: ms virus Thanks for clarifying. My apologies. -Randy ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Fw: ms virus ALL I wrote: what the H are you talking about, in response to jerryfoster's, PS. you guys and your microslut.. i guess if the pres. was boinkingyourtrue love you would just work around it(quote) I gather that Jerry Foster doesn't like microsoft, beyond that I'mconfused. R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from brewer@teleport.com Wed Aug 16 10:14:17 2000 e7GFEHG13839 "taliesin" 2000 Subject: Re: Mistakes Speaking of cork grips, ever keep "shaping" one until it was about 1/2" indiameter? I'm proud to say it took me two times to learn not to do that! NowI keep a good grip next to the lathe for a "reality check" as I shape a newone. Sometimes you just have to slow down a little!!! -Randy ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Mistakes Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sandingblockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ...theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message -----From: "Bradley Love" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:22 PMSubject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines from tklein@amgen.com Wed Aug 16 10:58:13 2000 e7GFwCG15703 Subject: RE: Knurling question Thanks! That would definitely help determine whether deflection is thecause. Also, thanks to Gary Heidt for a very simple solution that should give methe pattern I'd expect. Overall, I'm not sure it's really a problem. The pattern is actually verynice looking, it just confused the hell out of me when it happened and I wastrying to figure out what was going on. Unexplainable things like that justbug the heck out of me. I'm still interested to hear what tooth pitch some of you use. The 25 TPIthan came with my holder is way too coarse and I'm planning to order anotherset. Any suggestions? Thanks!---Tim ---------- Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 7:03 AM Subject: Re: Knurling question Tim,I'm certainly no accomplished machinist, but have you got theability tojury-rig some sort of ball-bearing support that could sit behind theknurling- point and support it the way the second knurl does? That'dcertainly either rule out the deflection possibility or cure the problem.I'm thinking of something along the lines of a knurl-holder with 2bearings substituted for the knurls, giving you a three-point contact: theknurl and the two ball bearings.Art At 12:39 AM 08/16/2000 -0600, Tim Klein wrote:Let me try this again because I think my question has beenmisunderstood. I have a knurl holder that holds one knurl on either side of the stock;onedirectly in front, the other directly in back. When I use the knurls as a pair, I get a perfect pattern as I wouldexpect.I'm using cutting oil, the pressure is correct (I'm certain of thisbecauseI'm actually comparing the resulting diameter of my knurled stock to achart from a machining handbook), and my speed is set correctly for knurlingthematerial I'm using (Aluminum for this test). Everything is hunky dory. Igeta normal diamond shaped pattern: XXXXXX If I remove the back knurl, without making any changes to the one infront,I would expect to see only half of this pattern. Using the X's above, Ishould see only the / / / / / / part of the pattern or the \ \ \ \ \ \ . What happens though is a compressed pattern: //////////// . I ran a couple of more tests tonight with different diameter stock, and Iturned the lathe by hand (speed shouldn't have any effect on the pattern,though it will affect the quality of the knurl. I confirmed this bytryingseveral different speeds from hand turning all the way up to normalcuttingspeeds.) I got the same results as before; Normal pattern with twoknurls,1/2 the pattern highly compressed with only 1 knurl. single knurl isn't aligning with the lines from it's earlier revolution(Ihope that makes sense). What happens is, in a single revolution I get thehalf pattern I would expect. The second revolution cuts lines in adifferentspot than the first (I'm sure this is simply a function of stock diametertoknurl diameter), the third revolution cuts more, and the fourthrevolutioncompletes the pattern. I guess the real question is; Why, when you add a second knurl, does thepattern always line up in a single revolution regardless of the diameterofthe stock? Tonight I locked my front knurl in place, and hand cranked the pattern.Withthe other hand, I cranked the back knurl into position while stillturningthe spindle by hand. As soon as the back knurl hit the stock, a "normal"knurl pattern developed. The only possible conclusion I've come up with at this point is that asingle knurl is deflecting the stock a small amount, whereas my setupwith aknurl on either side keeps the stock from flexing. I don't believe thisisit though. My original knurl holder had both knurls on the front anddeflected the stock noticeably (that's why I switched to the straddlestyle). I never got an overlapping pattern, despite the deflection.Unfortunately, I never tried a single knurl on that holder. (If someonewiththis style holder has a couple of minutes, I'd be interested in hearingwhathappens when you remove one of the knurls) I'm sure there is a reasonable explanation, but I'm still stumped. ---Tim from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Aug 16 11:45:52 2000 e7GGjqG18080 jubilee.ns.sympatico.ca(Post.Office MTA v3.5.2 release 221 ID# 0- 66967U86000L86000S0V35) Wed, 16 Aug 2000 13:45:45 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Reel Seats Friends,I will soon be leaving the list and traveling to Ontariotill Xmas , hopefully I will have access to a computer while I am thereand can subscribe under my hotmail account. Before I leave though Iwanted to pass on a little praise for a fellow- members craftsmanship.I just received, among other "goodies", a reel seat for mylittle 2 wt. It is one of Robert Venerri's Catskill "Katterskill" tinysize seats,up/down slide with a maple burl insert. My jaw dropped to thefloor when I first saw it! I can't wait to see it on the finished rod. Ihave been using Robert's seats exclusively on all my rods (other than 2or 3 old stock seats I am trying to use up) and have always been veryimpressed with his workmanship, but this little piece of work REALLYimpressed me and now I think I may just keep this 2 wt for myself for achange ;^)Once again, I can't say enough about your seats Robert! I waslooking forward to meeting you at the Catskills gathering but I missedthe boat, maybe some other time/place.Shawn from ejdrexler@hotmail.com Wed Aug 16 15:59:11 2000 e7GKxAG27376 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 13:59:05 -0700 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Company Snakeguides.com is more than alive. FILETIME=[CFFB47F0:01C007C4] Hello Harry, I talked to Mike McCoy today on the phone. He was just on his way to mail out my order. He just seems to be overwhelmed by all the big manufactures placing orders at him. He is more in business than he ever was and has the trouble of getting out orders and at the same time building up his automation process. He is a really nice guy though on the phone and I'm exited to see his guides since everyone is highly recommending them. His web-site will be available again shortly. Best Eric From: Harry Boyd Subject: Re: Company Snakeguides.comDate: Tue, 15 Aug 2000 17:57:23 - 0500 E.J.,You can contact Mike McCoy at (503)537-1908. I'm sure he can clear this up really appreciated the good service that Snake Brand has given me. I would hate Harry Boyd "E. J. Drexler" wrote: Dear rodmakers, I asked a couple weeks ago for a good source of agate stripping guides. Somemembers of the list recommended Mr. McCoy of snakeguides.com. I gotincontact with him right away and ordered a bigger amount of snakes,strippers, etc. After that he e-mailed back a couple times concerning theorder, but lately when I asked him when it finally can be shipped, noresponse. Also his web-site is not available any longer. Does anybody knowwhat's going on, or what happened to Mr. McCoy? Does anybody have a phonenumber of him so I can call him to make sure that he is still out there? Thanks Eric ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from tim.watson@watsonsrods.co.uk Wed Aug 16 16:03:48 2000 e7GL3lG27640 +0100 (BST) Subject: Sir D This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01C007CE.ADBA50A0 List,This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get = from timie to time when you try to help people out.A good friend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling to =get a response from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl was supposed to =send some things to John which have not materialised to date. John has =tried to make contact a couple of times with no success and I know John =is too embarrassed to chase him yet again. Does anyone know what's =happened to Darryl? This seems to be so out of character for someone who=has done so much for others. He may be ill, or something. But no reply =at all is a bit strange.Admittedly I have not been on the list recently to see if he has been =contributing but when John told me of his problem I thought that you =maybe the guys who could possibly help. Thanks very much Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01C007CE.ADBA50A0 one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get from timie = send some things to John which have not materialised to date. John has = embarrassed to chase him yet anyone know what’s happened to Darryl? This seems to be so out of= someone who has done so much for others. He may be ill, or something. = not been on the list recently to see if he has been contributing but = told me of his problem I thought that you maybe the guys who could = help.Thanks = muchTim ------=_NextPart_000_0060_01C007CE.ADBA50A0-- from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Wed Aug 16 16:04:06 2000 e7GL43G27671 QAA23995 for ; Wed, 16 Aug 2000 Subject: New resourcinol glue Custom Pak adhesives lists a new liquid/liquid resorcinol glueon their web page, Aerodux 500. No more walnut shells. See http://www.custompak.com/resorcinols.htm It is my understanding from this list that Custom Pak no longersells to the public but if somebody gets a gallon I'd sure like to try it (hint hint).......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from DNHayashida@aol.com Wed Aug 16 16:19:24 2000 e7GLJOG28422 Aug 2000 17:17:39 -0400 Subject: Re: Sir D I'm still here...How and when has he been trying to contact me? I haven't heard a peep fromhim in a year. Has he tried DNHayashida@aol.com? I changed my email address quite a whileago....Darryl In a message dated Wed, 16 Aug 2000 5:05:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,"Watson's" writes: List,This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get fromtimie to time when you try to help people out.A goodfriend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling to get a response from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl wassupposed to sendsome things to John which have not materialised to date. John has tried to make contact a couple of times with no success and I know John is too embarrassed to chase him yet again. Does anyone know whats happened toDarryl? This seems to be so out of character for someone who has done somuch for others. He may be ill, or something. But no reply at all is a bitstrange.Admittedly I have not been on the list recently to see if he has been contributing but when John told me of his problem I thought that you maybe the guys who could possibly help. Thanks very much Tim >> from cathcreek@hotmail.com Wed Aug 16 19:07:38 2000 e7H07bG03202 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:07:31 -0700 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Re: Sir D FILETIME=[23038AB0:01C007DF] Don't be picking on Sir D. Your countrymen made him a knight, but us colonials will defend him to the end. SEG. Rob From: DNHayashida@aol.com CC: Subject: Re: Sir DDate: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:17:39 EDT I'm still here...How and when has he been trying to contact me? I haven't heard a peep from him in a year.Has he tried DNHayashida@aol.com? I changed my email address quite awhile ago....Darryl In a message dated Wed, 16 Aug 2000 5:05:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Watson's" writes: This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get from timie to time when you try to help people out.A good friend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling to get a response from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl was supposed to send some things to John which have not materialised to date. John has tried to make contact a couple of times with no success and I know John is too embarrassed to chase him yet again. Does anyone know what's happened to Darryl? This seems to be so out of character for someone who has done so much for others. He may be ill, or something. But no reply at all is a bit strange.Admittedly I have not been on the list recently to see if he has been contributing but when John told me of his problem I thought that you maybe the guys who could possibly help. Thanks very much Tim List,This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get from timie to time when you try to help people out.class=EmailStyle16>A goodfriend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling to get a response from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl wassupposed to send some things to John which have not materialised to date. John has tried to make contact a couple of times with no success and I know John is too embarrassed to chase him yet again.class=EmailStyle16> Does anyone know whats happened toDarryl? This seems to be so out of character for someone who has done so much others. He may be ill, or something. But no reply at all is a bit strange.Admittedly I have not been on the list recently to see if he has been contributing but when John told me of his problem I thought that you maybe the guys who could possibly help.Thanks very muchTim >> ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed Aug 16 20:03:33 2000 e7H132G04150 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:35:38 +0800 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:35:36 +0800 Subject: Re: Mistakes I've found getting up out of bed to have serious consequences at times Tony At 08:20 AM 8/16/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:Speaking of cork grips, ever keep "shaping" one until it was about 1/2" indiameter? I'm proud to say it took me two times to learn not to do that!NowI keep a good grip next to the lathe for a "reality check" as I shape a newone. Sometimes you just have to slow down a little!!! -Randy ----- Original Message -----From: "Jon Lintvet" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 7:35 AMSubject: Re: Mistakes Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sandingblockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ...theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message -----From: "Bradley Love" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:22 PMSubject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Aug 16 20:13:36 2000 e7H1DZG04411 Wed, 16 Aug 2000 20:15:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Mistakes Yes, there's lots to be said for staying in bed at certain times ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Mistakes I've found getting up out of bed to have serious consequences at times Tony At 08:20 AM 8/16/00 -0700, Randy Brewer wrote:Speaking of cork grips, ever keep "shaping" one until it was about 1/2"indiameter? I'm proud to say it took me two times to learn not to do that!NowI keep a good grip next to the lathe for a "reality check" as I shape anewone. Sometimes you just have to slow down a little!!! -Randy ----- Original Message -----From: "Jon Lintvet" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 7:35 AMSubject: Re: Mistakes Here's another good one, first time tried to shape a grip, the sandingblockgot pulled under the grip and jammed between the grip and lathe bed ...theheadstock kept going and twisted the section above the grip right off. Jon M. Lintvet1007 W. Franklin St. #3Richmond, VA 23220http://www.MunroRodCo.com(804) 340-1848 (evenings) ----- Original Message -----From: "Bradley Love" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:22 PMSubject: Re: Mistakes How about taking a corner of the enamel side off with your plane,thinking it was the apex of the pith side... I now put littleXXXXX's on the butt of the splines...much like Tony does... this happened just about an hour ago, I just nearly broke a butt section "polishing" the handle,I was in a hurry and didn't want to set up my outrigger supportbehind the lathe "it'll just take a second to do..."needless to say, there a "groovy" groove in the butt about12" up from the handle...all the rod was lacking was a reelseat mounted to be complete 40 hours to build and 30 second to destroy...can you say furnace food or tomato stake with a prettycork handle Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:49 PMSubject: Mistakes How about gluing up a tip section only to findthat one strip turned and is glued in with theenamel side glued to the adjacent strip. It stillcasts good. What I do now, is color the base ofthe enamel side of each strip red so that thewhole base is red when it is glued up. If there is a break in the red then that strip is turned andnot right for gluing.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: Hey,Beats writing "71/2 ft" on a seven foot rod!Maybe I should only do one taper at a time... Rob Hoffhines /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from BambooRods@aol.com Wed Aug 16 21:07:08 2000 e7H278G05459 Subject: Fishing Trip Info, Oregon I will be able to do a stop and fish in the Deschutes River area, If it were you and you could do one day, what river and what guide for a float trip. Any advise would be appreciated. I have about two weeks advance and would like for the fishing to be trout not salmon but will entertain anything in the great fishing category. TIADoug Hall404-288-7096 from lblove@omniglobal.net Wed Aug 16 22:55:49 2000 e7H3tmG07027 Subject: Re: New resourcinol glue WOW $145 a gallon kit, I wonder if that is 1/2 gallon of each or one gallon of each? I went ahead and asked what made up a "one gallon" kit. when I get I response I'll go ahead and post it. Bradley ----- Original Message ----- Subject: New resourcinol glue Custom Pak adhesives lists a new liquid/liquid resorcinol glueon their web page, Aerodux 500. No more walnut shells. from caneman@clnk.com Wed Aug 16 23:05:34 2000 e7H45YG07271 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: New resourcinol glue GEEZ!!!!! And I was complaining about the price of URAC... Man, for $145 Icould have enough URAC to glue up a house! -----Original Message----- RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: New resourcinol glue WOW $145 a gallon kit,I wonder if that is 1/2 gallon of each or one gallon of each?I went ahead and asked what made up a "one gallon" kit. when I get I response I'll go ahead and post it. Bradley ----- Original Message -----From: "Frank Stetzer" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2000 4:04 PMSubject: New resourcinol glue Custom Pak adhesives lists a new liquid/liquid resorcinol glueon their web page, Aerodux 500. No more walnut shells. from tim.watson@watsonsrods.co.uk Thu Aug 17 02:39:14 2000 e7H7dDG10395 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:39:10 +0100 (BST) Subject: Re: Sir D All thanks for the response.I am pleased that all is well and I will forward the new email address.Please understand that I am in no way picking on anyone - simply concerned.His knighthood is well earned is stays firmly in place which means that wedefend him as well - not that he needs defending in this instance anyway.As always many thanks for your help and quick responses.Tim. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Sir D Don't be picking on Sir D. Your countrymen made him a knight, but uscolonials will defend him to the end. SEG. Rob From: DNHayashida@aol.com CC: Subject: Re: Sir DDate: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:17:39 EDT I'm still here...How and when has he been trying to contact me? I haven't heard a peepfromhim in a year.Has he tried DNHayashida@aol.com? I changed my email address quite awhileago....Darryl In a message dated Wed, 16 Aug 2000 5:05:25 PM Eastern DaylightTime,"Watson's" writes: This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all get fromtimie to time when you try to help people out.A good friend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling togetaresponse from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl was supposed tosendsome things to John which have not materialised to date. John has triedtomake contact a couple of times with no success and I know John is tooembarrassed to chase him yet again. Does anyone know what's happenedtoDarryl? This seems to be so out of character for someone who has donesomuch for others. He may be ill, or something. But no reply at all is abitstrange.Admittedly I have not been on the list recently to see if he has beencontributing but when John told me of his problem I thought that youmaybethe guys who could possibly help. Thanks very much Tim List,This is one of those tricky, possibly sensitive ones that we all getfromtimie to time when you try to help people out. >class=EmailStyle16>A goodfriend and sometime list member, John Cooper, is struggling togeta response from Darryl Hayashida. Apparently Darryl wassupposed tosendsome things to John which have not materialised to date. John has triedtomake contact a couple of times with no success and I know John is tooembarrassed to chase him yet again. >class=EmailStyle16> Does anyone know whats happened toDarryl?This seems to be so out of character for someone who has done somuchforothers. He may be ill, or something. But no reply at all is a bitstrange.Admittedly Ihave notbeen on the list recently to see if he has been contributing but whenJohntold me of his problem I thought that you maybe the guys who couldpossibly help.Thanks very muchTim >> ________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from lblove@omniglobal.net Thu Aug 17 06:43:14 2000 e7HBhEG13044 Subject: rod related/hardy replacement parts This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C00816.0B3FB0C0 Hello Listmembers,I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring. offer them. Does anybody know of a source for these parts?I was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C00816.0B3FB0C0 Hello Listmembers, = Sunbeam 6/7 spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they = a = these parts? and maybe some light saltwater fishing on the coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C00816.0B3FB0C0-- from freaner@home.com Thu Aug 17 07:02:36 2000 e7HC2ZG13410 Subject: Need a list member's email address? was: Sir D. Folks, to avoid some of these problems in the future, you can get a list of all current subscribers quite easily. Just send a message to listproc@wugate.wustl.edu and in the body of the message put review rodmakers and in a couple of minutes will come a complete listing of all subscribers along with some good information about what your own personal settings are on the list (mail, digest, etc.) and some useful information about changing your settings. Write a note to yourself and once a month, get a new list of subscribers - you'll always be able to contact someone that way. Claude from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 17 07:04:57 2000 e7HC4uG13534 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:04:50 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts --------------F9BF174864F74F7D9D7EB0F0 Bradley,I know of a reel repair shop here in Nova Scotia owned bya renowned Atlantic Salmon fly tier. He is an avid Hardy fan. I wasgoing to call him for you but I think I'll go one step further and dropin to see him later today. I will see if he has the parts or if he knowswhere to get them.ShawnBradley Love wrote: Hello Listmembers, I have recently acquired a House of HardySunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leafspring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they nolongeroffer them. Does anybody know of a source for these parts?I wasplanning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingand maybesome light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast thiswinter. TIABradley --------------F9BF174864F74F7D9D7EB0F0 Bradley, I know of a reel repair shop here in Nova Scotia owned by a renowned AtlanticSalmon fly tier. He is an avid Hardy fan. I was going to call him for youbut I think I'll go one step further and drop in to see him later today.I will see if he has the parts or if he knows where to get them. ShawnBradley Love wrote: I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reelthat is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.Ihave contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longeroffer was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingandmaybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this --------------F9BF174864F74F7D9D7EB0F0-- from anglport@con2.com Thu Aug 17 07:11:39 2000 e7HCBcG13848 Subject: Re: New resourcinol glue Icould have enough URAC to glue up a house! Yeah, but you'd have to do it quickly!!!Doesn't Resorcinal have a much-longer shelf life? 'Course, you startrepackaging the stuff in god-knows-what-kinda several-ounce receptaclesandwho knows where the expected lifespan goes.Another $.02 heard from,Art from petermckean@netspace.net.au Thu Aug 17 07:13:18 2000 e7HCDGG13998 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C00897.35D354A0 Bradley I don't know whether you are restoring this reel as a collector's item =or as a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes a difference. But my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enough to have a =selection of Hardy reels find that the pawls are of uniformly poor =quality, and that the springs often spit the dummy under fishing =pressure. What we find is that your friendly neighbourhood GUNSMITH can =make better springs (I think some of them use phosphor bronze alloy) =than Hardy's ever did, and you can file a pawl out of SS or bronze which =would be the envy of Alnwick. Here is a personal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some =chance); the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right =now, in the United States of America, by several and varied makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put it =alphabetically if I intended to complete the list. But the fivereels which I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and =other, which work all the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four =Abels and a Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that =lineup, and they are fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting =funtionally dragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, =with the excellence of the US products, simply does not occur. If I were fortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend =with the ruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about =English reels, let alone buy one. Whew! Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hello Listmembers,I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring. offer them. Does anybody know of a source for these parts?I was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C00897.35D354A0 Bradley I don't know whether you are restoring= a collector's item or as a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes a = difference. But my friends and I who are = enough to have a selection of Hardy reels find that the pawls are of = poor quality, and that the springs often spit the dummy under fishing = What we find is that your friendly neighbourhood GUNSMITH can make = springs (I think some of them use phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's = Alnwick. Here is a personal opinion, and I hope = offend anyone (some chance); the best fly reels that the world has ever = makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes= probably should have put it alphabetically if I intended to complete the = list. But the fivereels which I USE, all the = and fresh, trout and other, which work all the time and NEVER give any = are four Abels and a Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks = funtionally dragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, = the excellence of the US products, simply does not occur. If I were fortunate enough to live in = not have to contend with the ruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, = think about English reels, let alone buy one. Whew! Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it = fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ----- Original Message ----- Love Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000= PMSubject: rod related/hardy = parts Hello Listmembers, Sunbeam 6/7 spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they = of a = and maybe some light saltwater fishing on the = coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C00897.35D354A0-- from anglport@con2.com Thu Aug 17 07:23:35 2000 e7HCNYG14382 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hello Listmembers, I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7 need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring... All and anyone,I have a similar parts problem with a Martin #69 multiplier (needs theone-piece pawl-spring/spool-spacer-bearing) and Zebco-Martin blew me offwith a "ain't got no mo'". Any sugestions? There's enough of the bearing left (it's a coppery-looking ring -- 3/4ring, now --,that separates the spool from the frame) and I can probablyrig up some sort of auxilliary spring to "click" the pawl, but it'd be niceto do it right if possible.Thanks,Art from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 17 07:27:00 2000 e7HCR0G14563 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:26:53 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts --------------957626BA3504EB364C6F812D Peter,I "hear" that the Hardy reels here in Canada aren't much more(Canadian funds) than what they sell for in the states (US funds) ourCanadian dollar and the Aussie dollar are close to par. Just food forthought.I must agree, there are better reels out there forperformance/price but for appearance and good old lovely soundingreels....it is hard to beat a Hardy! I love the look/feel of my Bouglebut for the same price I could buy two lovely Tetons. On anotherCanadian note (sorry) there is a company in BC that makes a line of verynice reels." Islander" I think it is, and that make a nice line of saltwater reels as well as beautiful fresh water reels.Shawn petermckean wrote: Bradley I don't know whether you are restoring this reel as acollector's item or as a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes adifference. But my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enoughto have a selection of Hardy reels find that the pawls are ofuniformly poor quality, and that the springs often spit the dummyunder fishing pressure. What we find is that your friendlyneighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (I think some of themuse phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, and you can file apawl out of SS or bronze which would be the envy of Alnwick. Here is apersonal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some chance);the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right now,in the United States of America, by several and varied makers. I havehardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put italphabetically if I intended to complete the list. But the fivereelswhich I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and other, which workall the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four Abels and a Lamson.My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup, and theyare fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionallydragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with theexcellence of the US products, simply does not occur. If I werefortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend with theruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about Englishreels, let alone buy one. Whew!Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all theirlives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ----- Original Message -----From: Bradley Love Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement partsHello Listmembers, I have recently acquired a House ofHardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawland leaf spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for partsand they no longeroffer them. Does anybody know of a source 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwaterfishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIABradley --------------957626BA3504EB364C6F812D Peter, Hardy reels here in Canada aren't much more (Canadian funds) than whatthey sell for in the states (US funds) our Canadian dollar and the Aussiedollar are close to par. Just food for thought. better reels out there for performance/price but for appearance and goodold lovely sounding reels....it is hard to beat a Hardy! I love the look/feelof my Bougle but for the same price I could buy two lovely Tetons. OnanotherCanadian note (sorry) there is a company in BC that makes a line of verynice reels." Islander" I think it is, and that make a nice line of saltwater reels as well as beautiful fresh water reels. Shawnpetermckean wrote: don't know whether you are restoring this reel as a collector's item oras a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes a my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enough to have a selectionof Hardy reels find that the pawls are of uniformly poor quality, and thatthe springs often spit the dummy under fishing pressure. What we find isthat your friendly neighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (I thinksome of them use phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, and youcan file a pawl out of SS or bronze which would be the envy of is a personal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some chance);the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right now, inthe United States of America, by several and varied have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put italphabetically the fivereels which I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and other,which work all the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four Abels anda Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup, andthey are fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionallydragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with theexcellence I were fortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend withthe ruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about English men go fishing all their lives without realising ----- Original Message ----- From:BradleyLove Sent: Thursday, August 17, 20009:40PM Subject: rod related/hardyreplacementparts I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reelthat is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.Ihave contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longeroffer was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingandmaybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this --------------957626BA3504EB364C6F812D-- from rsgould@cmc.net Thu Aug 17 07:28:11 2000 e7HCSAG14684 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Organization: GOULD This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0080B.CD283280 Hi Bradley.The Hardy catalogue I have shows that the "reel part pack" for the 6/7 =Hardy Sunbeam is "A10". The "A" pack contains 2 check springs and 2 =pawls. There is some dual use (used on more than one type reel) for some =of their packs so you might inquire again if they have the A10 pack. =When I was last in London a couple of years ago the House of Hardy shop =there had a wall full of the various packs.Ray Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 4:40 AMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hello Listmembers,I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring. offer them. Does anybody know of a source for these parts?I was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0080B.CD283280 Hi Bradley.The Hardy catalogue I have shows that= part pack" for the 6/7 Hardy Sunbeam is "A10". The "A" pack contains 2 = springs and 2 pawls. There is some dual use (used on more than one type = When I was last in London a couple of years ago the House of Hardy shop = had a wall full of the various packs.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Love Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000= AMSubject: rod related/hardy = parts Hello Listmembers, Sunbeam 6/7 spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they = of a = and maybe some light saltwater fishing on the = coast this winter. TIA ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C0080B.CD283280-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 17 08:24:16 2000 e7HDOFG16365 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 06:24:06 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts --------------2C7A277059DBCD9DAA1408D4 petermckean wrote: My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionally dragless backups, ahedge against emergency failure - which, with the excellence of the USproducts, simply does not occur. Peter,Before you completely write off all reels British, you reallyought to check out the offerings from J. Austin Forbes. The owner,Terrance O'Connor, is a bamboo nut like us. His reels not only lookgood, they perform flawlessly. They are quickly becoming my favorites. Disclaimer - I do have a small financial interest. I have a fewJAF reels for sale with my rods. Harry Boyd --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ --------------2C7A277059DBCD9DAA1408D4 petermckean wrote:My Hardy reelsaredust-collecting funtionally dragless backups, a hedge against emergencyfailure - which, with the excellence of the US products, simply does notoccur.Peter, writeoff all reels British, you really ought to check out the offerings from rods. --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ --------------2C7A277059DBCD9DAA1408D4-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Aug 17 08:36:41 2000 e7HDacG16783 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 21:36:18 +0800 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Well said and 100% agree. Tony At 10:05 PM 8/17/00 +1000, petermckean wrote: Bradley I don't know whether you are restoringthis reel as a collector's item or as a fishing tool, and it may be thatthat makes a difference. But my friends and I who arefortunate/unfortunate enough to have a selection of Hardy reels find thatthe pawls are of uniformly poor quality, and that the springs often spitthe dummy under fishing pressure. What we find is that your friendlyneighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (I think some of them usephosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, and you can file a pawl outof SS or bronze which would be the envy of Alnwick. Here is a personal opinion, and I hopeit doesn't offend anyone (some chance); the best fly reels that the worldhas ever seen are made, right now, in the United States of America, byseveral and varied makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes- I probably should have put it alphabetically if I intended to completethe list. But the fivereels which I USE, all thetime, salt and fresh, trout and other, which work all the time and NEVERgive any trouble, are four Abels and a Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup, and they are fantastic also. My Hardyreels are dust-collecting funtionally dragless backups, a hedge againstemergency failure - which, with the excellence of the US products, simplydoes not occur. If I were fortunate enough to live inthe USA, and not have to contend with the ruinous $A exchange rate, Iwould never, ever even think about English reels, let alone buyone. Whew! Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ----- Original Message ----- From:BradleyLove Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hello Listmembers, 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longer parts?I was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bassbuggingand maybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast thiswinter. TIABradley /**************************************************************************/ AV Young /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Aug 17 09:13:18 2000 e7HEDIG17969 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:14:49 -0500 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hey Brad, I have a bunch of spring stock, in various thicknesses. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Bradley I don't know whether you are restoring this reel as a collector's item or asa fishing tool, and it may be that that makes a difference. But my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enough to have aselection of Hardy reels find that the pawls are of uniformly poor quality,and that the springs often spit the dummy under fishing pressure. What wefind is that your friendly neighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (Ithink some of them use phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, andyoucan file a pawl out of SS or bronze which would be the envy of Alnwick. Here is a personal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (somechance); the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, rightnow, in the United States of America, by several and varied makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put italphabetically if I intended to complete the list. But the fivereels which I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout andother, which work all the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four Abelsand a Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup,andthey are fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionallydragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with theexcellence of the US products, simply does not occur. If I were fortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend withthe ruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about Englishreels, let alone buy one. Whew! Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message -----From: Bradley Love Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hello Listmembers,I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longeroffer them. Does anybody know of a source for these parts?I was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIABradley from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 17 11:23:52 2000 e7HGNqG22882 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: clear finish for blued components Friends,I picked up some clear finish today to coat my bluedcomponents. Krylon Color Works EPOXY Enamel. It is made here in Canada To me it sounds ideal, especially the super hard part. I waswondering if any of you had tried this stuff? Only concern I have is howit will react when I wrap ferrules and coat with Spar urethane. I don'tknow if the two will be compatible together?? Would I be better off justto use normal clear enamel??Any advice would be appreciated.Shawn from teekay35@interlynx.net Thu Aug 17 11:40:35 2000 e7HGeYG23842 Subject: Re: Knurling question What I do is count the number of points on the knurl, divide this into thecircumference of the knurl, which gives you the pitch or spacing of theknurl. If your knurl is 25 TPI this should equal .040". You can thencalculate the ideal circumference/dia. of the work. It should be amultiple of .040". This way the knurl points should "track", that is notdouble cut, the pressure to produce the knurl is less, and you should getnice clean sharp "points" ----------From: Klein, Tim Subject: Knurling questionDate: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 7:45 PM O.K., I'm stumped! I've got a pair of 25 TPI spiral knurls (30 degree) that came with theknurling tool holder I purchased. I was playing around with them a littlethe other night, and thought I'd try a technique that Bob Nunley hadmentioned might work to imitate a "rope" type knurl that is often seen oncommercial reelseat hardware. The suggestion involved using only 1 of theknurls, rather than the pair. When I removed the second knurl, I expected to see exactly one half oftheknurl pattern I got when using both. That's not what happened though. Igotthe pattern I expected; 30 degree diagonal lines, but it was much finernowthan it was with both (I'd guess that I've got at least double the numberoflines, maybe even triple. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 75 linesper inch). I just can't seem to visualize what's physically going on to make theknurlso much finer. Since the resulting lines are finer than the knurl itself,the cutting edges are obviously overlapping on each revolution of thestock,but the pattern is very even and doesn't seem to vary when I changepressure. I can't figure out how removing one knurl would change thepitchbeing cut by the other. Help?! (25 TPI knurls are far too coarse to use on reelseat hardware. As a sidequestion, what do most of you use?) ---Timx11512 from briansr@point-net.com Thu Aug 17 11:41:59 2000 e7HGfxG24014 forged)) Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:40:45 -0400 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C00848.455A7EC0 Here is a personal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some =chance); the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right =now, in the United States of America, by several and varied makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put =it alphabetically if I intended to complete the list. But the fivereels which I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and =other, which work all the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four =Abels and a Lamson. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionally =dragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with the =excellence of the US products, simply does not occur.WOW Pewter!!!!!!!!!! Want to sell some of your dust =collecters??????I now hang a Marquis Salmon# 2 on one of my Spey =rodsDoes the job finely and It's there by preferance over a Bogdan, =Lamson-Spey and a Robichaud!TheBogdan is way TOO MUCH reel for a Spey and the Lamson just pissed =me off when that cheapo clicker spring kept working loose.It now has a =stronger "custom " spring that works fine. As for a perfect reel for = Cheers Brian ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C00848.455A7EC0 .You wrote Here is a personal opinion, and I = offend anyone (some chance); the best fly reels that the world has = are made, right now, in the United States of America, by several and = makers. I have hardy Perfects, Marquis, = probably should have put it alphabetically if I intended to complete = list. But the fivereels which I USE, all = and fresh, trout and other, which work all the time and NEVER give any = funtionally dragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - = the excellence of the US products, simply does not occur. WOW Pewter!!!!!!!!!! Want to sell some of your = rodsDoes the job finely and It's there by preferance over a = Lamson-Spey and a Robichaud!TheBogdan is way TOO MUCH reel for a Spey and = just pissed me off when that cheapo clicker spring kept working = has a stronger "custom " spring that works fine. As for a perfect = Cane, IMHO it's the Perfect ! Cheers Brian around. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C00848.455A7EC0-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu Aug 17 12:15:35 2000 e7HHFYG25559 Subject: Plane Choices Was wondering whether any of you have used the Veritas low angle blockplane for rodmaking, and what you thought of it. I'm still in the toolfabrication and accumulation stage (haven't built any rods yet), and mytools have to perform double duty (woodworking and rodbuilding). TheVeritas Low Angle would be a good addition to my woodworking tools, waswondering whether it would also be a good choice for rodmaking. from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Thu Aug 17 12:40:03 2000 e7HHe2G26410 Subject: Re: clear finish for blued components Shawn,just dip the ferrules with your varnish on the last coat, wait until the last coat so you don't get build up around the welt of the femaleJoe from dannyt@frisurf.no Thu Aug 17 13:39:37 2000 e7HIdZG28475 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 20:39:18 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Plane Choices James, I started with the Stanley low angel plan (060 1/2) and the 9 1/2,I used the low angel exclusivly after I honed the blade to 30/35*..It fitted my small hands better than the 9 1/2. After I bought me an Record 9 1/2, I exclusivly use it for all my rodmaking.Its a bit smaller than the Stanley, but have the same width on the sole, andare better, less chattering than both the low angel ones, I also bought theRecord l.a. I have only seen the Veritas planes in the catalog, but it seems to be goodquality....... Just my two cents. regardsdanny -------Work From: James Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 11:11:13 -0600 Subject: Plane Choices Was wondering whether any of you have used the Veritas low angle blockplane for rodmaking, and what you thought of it. I'm still in the toolfabrication and accumulation stage (haven't built any rods yet), and mytools have to perform double duty (woodworking and rodbuilding). TheVeritas Low Angle would be a good addition to my woodworking tools, waswondering whether it would also be a good choice for rodmaking. from sharpes43@hotmail.com Thu Aug 17 13:50:23 2000 e7HIoMG28871 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 11:50:17 -0700 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 GMT Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts FILETIME=[FC2FBB00:01C0087B] go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeve________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Thu Aug 17 14:07:26 2000 e7HJ7PG29593 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts On Thu, 17 Aug 2000, Bradley Love wrote: Hello Listmembers,I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longer offer them. Can you define "contacted Hardy directly"? I can't believe they won'thelp you. I have always been able to get parts and repairs for customerreels. A pawl & spring is the simplest of requests. It isn't that hard toeven make them yourself if all else fails. Regards, BobFly Suppliesflysupplies@yahoo.com from yves@hwy97.net Thu Aug 17 14:37:44 2000 e7HJbhG00884 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:37:42 -0700 Subject: Hardy 9' CC de France Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it to castand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project I wouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA, Dave from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Thu Aug 17 14:55:12 2000 e7HJtBG01564 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 20:54:46 +0100 Subject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de France Dave,I have once had the opportunity to cast with an 8'0" CC de france ( Inever knew a 9'CC existed ? )and the rod did not suit my style offishing ( I like a fast actioned cane rod )as it was far too sluggish .I for one could never see why people rave about CC rods.In general ALLthe Hardy CC de France rods I have seen have been poorly made and whythey command such a good price on the used rod market has never ceasedto amaze me ......and all this from a Brit !!! David La Touche wrote: Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it to castand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project I wouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA,Dave from teekay35@interlynx.net Thu Aug 17 15:20:58 2000 e7HKKvG02555 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: Re: Plane Choices I love my Veritas plane. Solid feeling, no chatter, didn't need flatteningright out of the box, holds an edge just as well as my hock blades. I didgrind the blade to create a 65 degree face angle. I have seven planes inuse and the Veritas has become my first choice. Wish Lee Valley would makea 25 degree plane.----------From: James Subject: Plane ChoicesDate: Thursday, August 17, 2000 1:11 PM Was wondering whether any of you have used the Veritas low angle blockplane for rodmaking, and what you thought of it. I'm still in the toolfabrication and accumulation stage (haven't built any rods yet), and mytools have to perform double duty (woodworking and rodbuilding). TheVeritas Low Angle would be a good addition to my woodworking tools, waswondering whether it would also be a good choice for rodmaking. from teekay35@interlynx.net Thu Aug 17 15:27:27 2000 e7HKRRG02861 Subject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de France I used to own an 8' 0" CC de France. Liked the action of the rod, but youdo have to slow down and let the rod work. Still own a 7' 0" CC de France,but prefer my own adaptation of the Payne 98 The payne has a crisp actionand makes a good first rod for someone used to graphite. ----------From: paul.blakley Cc: RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de FranceDate: Thursday, August 17, 2000 3:54 PM Dave,I have once had the opportunity to cast with an 8'0" CC de france ( Inever knew a 9'CC existed ? )and the rod did not suit my style offishing ( I like a fast actioned cane rod )as it was far too sluggish .I for one could never see why people rave about CC rods.In general ALLthe Hardy CC de France rods I have seen have been poorly made and whythey command such a good price on the used rod market has never ceasedto amaze me ......and all this from a Brit !!! David La Touche wrote: Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it tocastand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project Iwouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA,Dave from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Aug 17 15:34:19 2000 e7HKYIG03493 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 17:34:11 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: clear finish for blued components Joe,doesn't that discolor the bluing? I know that the spar urethane usuallydoes weird things because it is amber, not clear.Shawn Eastkoyfly@aol.com wrote: Shawn,just dip the ferrules with your varnish on the last coat, wait until thelast coat so you don't get build up around the welt of the femaleJoe from wlwalter@bellatlantic.net Thu Aug 17 16:17:47 2000 e7HLHkG05337 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts --------------E53EB9D63EDAEB9FC2756C38 Peter,If these American makers made more classically styled reels then perhapseveryone would agree with you because face it we do like to buy stuffthat looks good not just functions well, or we would all be usingPflueger Medalists. Bill Walters petermckean wrote: Bradley I don't know whether you are restoring this reel as acollector's item or as a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes adifference. But my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enoughto have a selection of Hardy reels find that the pawls are ofuniformly poor quality, and that the springs often spit the dummyunder fishing pressure. What we find is that your friendlyneighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (I think some of themuse phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, and you can file apawl out of SS or bronze which would be the envy of Alnwick. Here is apersonal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some chance);the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right now,in the United States of America, by several and varied makers. I havehardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put italphabetically if I intended to complete the list. But the fivereelswhich I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and other, which workall the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four Abels and a Lamson.My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup, and theyare fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionallydragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with theexcellence of the US products, simply does not occur. If I werefortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend with theruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about Englishreels, let alone buy one. Whew!Peter. petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all theirlives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ----- Original Message -----From: Bradley Love Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:40 PMSubject: rod related/hardy replacement partsHello Listmembers, I have recently acquired a House ofHardy Sunbeam 6/7reel that is in need of a replacement pawland leaf spring.I have contacted Hardy directly for partsand they no longeroffer them. Does anybody know of a source 8' rod for bass buggingand maybe some light saltwaterfishing on the Texas coast this winter. TIABradley --------------E53EB9D63EDAEB9FC2756C38 Peter,If these American makers made more classically styled reels thenperhapseveryone would agree with you because face it we do like to buy stuff thatlooks good not just functions well, or we would all be using Pflueger Medalists.Bill Walterspetermckean wrote: don't know whether you are restoring this reel as a collector's item oras a fishing tool, and it may be that that makes a my friends and I who are fortunate/unfortunate enough to have a selectionof Hardy reels find that the pawls are of uniformly poor quality, and thatthe springs often spit the dummy under fishing pressure. What we find isthat your friendly neighbourhood GUNSMITH can make better springs (I thinksome of them use phosphor bronze alloy) than Hardy's ever did, and youcan file a pawl out of SS or bronze which would be the envy of is a personal opinion, and I hope it doesn't offend anyone (some chance);the best fly reels that the world has ever seen are made, right now, inthe United States of America, by several and varied have hardy Perfects, Marquis, Princes - I probably should have put italphabetically the fivereels which I USE, all the time, salt and fresh, trout and other,which work all the time and NEVER give any trouble, are four Abels anda Lamson. My friend can add a couple from Waterworks to that lineup, andthey are fantastic also. My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionallydragless backups, a hedge against emergency failure - which, with theexcellence I were fortunate enough to live in the USA, and not have to contend withthe ruinous $A exchange rate, I would never, ever even think about English men go fishing all their lives without realising ----- Original Message ----- From:BradleyLove Sent: Thursday, August 17, 20009:40PM Subject: rod related/hardyreplacementparts I have recently acquired a House of Hardy Sunbeam 6/7reelthat is in need of a replacement pawl and leaf spring.Ihave contacted Hardy directly for parts and they no longeroffer was planning on using the reel on a 7wt. 8' rod for bass buggingandmaybe some light saltwater fishing on the Texas coast this from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Aug 17 16:50:24 2000 e7HLoNG06394 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 16:48:37 -0500 Subject: Re: clear finish for blued components Normally, if you put epoxy enamels over most anything, there will be noproblem. Putting some lacquer based types ( as in HOT thinners) over it, cancause curdling. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: clear finish for blued components Friends,I picked up some clear finish today to coat my bluedcomponents. Krylon Color Works EPOXY Enamel. It is made here in Canada To me it sounds ideal, especially the super hard part. I waswondering if any of you had tried this stuff? Only concern I have is howit will react when I wrap ferrules and coat with Spar urethane. I don'tknow if the two will be compatible together?? Would I be better off justto use normal clear enamel??Any advice would be appreciated.Shawn from dpeaston@wzrd.com Thu Aug 17 18:10:40 2000 e7HNAdG08127 Subject: Re: clear finish for blued components All,I've seen Joe's rods. Very elegant, not a weird aspect about them. It wasHeddon practice to put varnish over the blackened hardware and after 30-50years it seems to darken and give the ferrules an off color. When I restorea rod with blackened hardware I've taken to using a product calledPlasti-Kote Ultra enamel. This is the coating recommended by our local autoparts supplier for re-coating mag and aluminum wheels. It is a clearacrylic enamel made by Plasti-Kote Co. in Medina Ohio. It seems to be quiteresistant to chipping and peeling (Ala lacquer). It seems to impart nocolor at all to the hardware. It comes in a spray can and takes two coatsto cover well. I probably won't be around to check it out 50 years out butI have some rods which have been fished for a couple of years withexcellent results. This has been particularly evident on the blacked brassferrules on my Sharpes Scottie. -Doug At 05:30 PM 8/17/00 -0400, Shawn Pineo wrote:Joe,doesn't that discolor the bluing? I know that the spar urethaneusuallydoes weird things because it is amber, not clear.Shawn Eastkoyfly@aol.com wrote: Shawn,just dip the ferrules with your varnish on the last coat, wait until thelast coat so you don't get build up around the welt of the femaleJoe Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from iank@ts.co.nz Thu Aug 17 18:31:16 2000 e7HNVEG08872 Subject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de France David, I have a 9'6" cc de france , with a 1960 number . I have only cast it on thelawn a couple of times . It feels quite "sloppy" when assembled but casts aweight 5 line very nicely with a parabolic action ( on the occasions that Iget the timing right) . I also tend to agree with Ted's views on the quality of Hardy rods ,although the ones I have miced are generally pretty good in terms ofconsistancy between the flats. They were after all one of the largestproduction rod producers in the world , even if highly priced. regards Ian Kearney----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hardy 9' CC de France Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it tocastand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project I wouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA,Dave from jim@seahorses.com Thu Aug 17 18:36:32 2000 e7HNaVG09047 Subject: New "I love you Virus" Just to let you guys know there is a new I love you virus out today, updateyour definitions. Jim ForsheyAquatic Book ShopP.O. Box 2150Shingle Springs, CA 95682- 2150USA www.Seahorses.com Please FAX order andpayment to;FAX (724) 592-5102 Please call order and payment to; (724)592-5019Home Phone (530)622- 7547 (Evenings and weekends), FAX (530)622-7157Wanted Aquarium and Ichthyology (Fish) Books, Magazines and Videos (inany Language)'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜.>.˜'ü'˜.. ,..˜'ü'˜..>>.˜'ü'˜..˜'ü'˜...>.˜'ü'˜.. ,. from channer1@rmi.net Thu Aug 17 19:09:53 2000 e7I09rG09972 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts stephen weaver wrote: go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn from dr.matro@airmail.net Thu Aug 17 19:30:04 2000 e7I0U3G10713 sender: Organization: KC Graphics Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts creator="4D4F5353" go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Aug 17 19:59:55 2000 e7I0xqG11638 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:59:42 +0800 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Depends on what you're after in a reel. I'm in the all it does is hold linecamp (trout reels anyhow) and I'm sitting here wondering just what the hellI was thinking when I forked out to buy the Hardy Princess sitting in frontof me. All things considered the workmanship is pretty ordinary. If Hardywasn't an established company I don't think they'd sell too many reels.My son recently bought an ABU 7000 he uses for mackerel etc. Noregardlessof where you sit with blue water gear I can't see how a centre pin reelmade in the qtys Hardy reels are made in can cost more than an engineeringmarvel a well made bait caster type reel does unless it's what we at aplace I worked at years ago used to call the "Mammut Syndrome". Mammutarea Swiss climbing rope company and when the mob I worked with importedtheseropes the usual marketing ploy was to say something like "These are themost expensive ropes you can buy today, guaranteed!" Made people thinktheywere great, unfortunately IMHO they were good but just overpriced. Tony At 06:11 PM 8/17/00 -0600, channer wrote: stephen weaver wrote: go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Aug 17 20:21:19 2000 e7I1LIG12287 Thu, 17 Aug 2000 20:22:50 -0500 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts You have a clear mind Tony ! GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Depends on what you're after in a reel. I'm in the all it does is holdlinecamp (trout reels anyhow) and I'm sitting here wondering just what thehellI was thinking when I forked out to buy the Hardy Princess sitting infrontof me. All things considered the workmanship is pretty ordinary. If Hardywasn't an established company I don't think they'd sell too many reels.My son recently bought an ABU 7000 he uses for mackerel etc. Noregardlessof where you sit with blue water gear I can't see how a centre pin reelmade in the qtys Hardy reels are made in can cost more than anengineeringmarvel a well made bait caster type reel does unless it's what we at aplace I worked at years ago used to call the "Mammut Syndrome". Mammutarea Swiss climbing rope company and when the mob I worked with importedtheseropes the usual marketing ploy was to say something like "These are themost expensive ropes you can buy today, guaranteed!" Made people thinktheywere great, unfortunately IMHO they were good but just overpriced. Tony At 06:11 PM 8/17/00 -0600, channer wrote: stephen weaver wrote: go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Thu Aug 17 20:50:01 2000 e7I1nxG12824 Mail VirusWall NT); Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:49:45 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: JAF Reels Harry,any chance of some pics of these reels?Mike from cmj@post11.tele.dk Thu Aug 17 21:11:44 2000 e7I2BhG13264 +0200 Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts e7I2BiG13265 I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmark a Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn Anybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from FlyfishT@aol.com Thu Aug 17 21:39:46 2000 e7I2djG13798 Subject: salmon/michigan Hi, all. I will be taking a trip to Kalamazoo, MI, sometime in September (my wife's family lives there). I would like to make one rod that I can use to fish for both salmon and steelhead. I'm thinking of the Dickerson 8015 guide, which is a 7-weight rod. Here are my questions: 1. Will this rod handle Michigan salmon? 2. Which salmon are they? King? 3. Does anyone know what dates the salmon start and what dates thesteelhead start? I guess I would be fishing the PIerre Marquet river. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Tom from saweiss@flash.net Thu Aug 17 22:29:14 2000 e7I3SrG14835 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts I have a couple of CFOs and like them. I like their light weight for theirline capacity, and they do sound and feel good. I only use the click andpawl versions, not the disk drag. I also have an old battenkill 5/6 thatrefuses to give up. I bought it used and have worked it hard for years.Steve go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohnAnybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from flyrod@pop.digisys.net Thu Aug 17 22:40:44 2000 e7I3eYG15013 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts I use a Pflueger 1494., Been around forever, works perfect everytime, only 26.95 at you local walley world. more money for rod building.MHOJim FlinchbaughNW Montana from seanmcs@ar.com.au Thu Aug 17 22:48:48 2000 e7I3mGG15214 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:48:43 +1000 Subject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de France ----------From: "paul.blakley" Cc: RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de FranceDate: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 5:54 AM Dave,I have once had the opportunity to cast with an 8'0" CC de france ( Inever knew a 9'CC existed ? )and the rod did not suit my style offishing ( I like a fast actioned cane rod )as it was far too sluggish .I for one could never see why people rave about CC rods.In general ALLthe Hardy CC de France rods I have seen have been poorly made and whythey command such a good price on the used rod market has never ceasedto amaze me ......and all this from a Brit !!! David La Touche wrote: Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it to castand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project I wouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA,Dave Dave: I have a 1920-22 CC de France that is 7' 6". It is for a four line.It casts very nicely but I would not compare it with a Payne of 7' 0" whichis by far a superior rod. Depends what you want to do, but if time islimited I would prefer to make a copy of a more interesting rod. Sean from caneman@clnk.com Fri Aug 18 01:55:05 2000 e7I6soG18392 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (only complaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds line. Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with a Boneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like my littleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohnAnybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Fri Aug 18 03:37:54 2000 e7I8bRG20078 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 10:37:11 +0200 Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts e7I8bhG20079 Hi Bob OK OK, I too have other reels than Hardy. I especially love a smallFenwick NightHawk I bought for #2-4 fishing. Looks good, worksall of the time and still make music from pawl/ratchet mechanism,when once a year I catch a fish. What I cant stand is all that marketing-hype the manufacturersblow out. Having seen bonefishing on the telly I can appriciatethe need for a brake on any reel. On the other hand the bestselling reel, and the inventors (or so they say themselves) ofthe large arbor reels, are Loop. For years they have sold reelswith no brakes whatsoever, and they are used for salmonfishing and anything else. My point is: You cant brake down a powerfull fish running down-stream. Dont know about bones, butt salmonfishing friends tellme You just hang on for dear life when a 30 pound Atlantic Salmon decidesto potter downstream. trainstopping power - I am sorry to say. Perhaps I simply never catch the biggies:-(( regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (only complaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds line. Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with a Boneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like my littleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohnAnybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Fri Aug 18 03:40:02 2000 e7I8dpG20118 +0200 Subject: rod related: Hardy e7I8e1G20120 Hi Bob OK OK, I too have other reels than Hardy. I especially love a smallFenwick NightHawk I bought for #2-4 fishing. Looks good, worksall of the time and still make music from pawl/ratchet mechanism,when once a year I catch a fish. What I cant stand is all that marketing-hype the manufacturersblow out. Having seen bonefishing on the telly I can appriciatethe need for a brake on any reel. On the other hand the bestselling reel, and the inventors (or so they say themselves) ofthe large arbor reels, are Loop. For years they have sold reelswith no brakes whatsoever, and they are used for salmonfishing and anything else. My point is: You cant brake down a powerfull fish running down-stream. Dont know about bones, butt salmonfishing friends tellme You just hang on for dear life when a 30 pound Atlantic Salmon decidesto potter downstream. trainstopping power - I am sorry to say. Perhaps I simply never catch the biggies:-(( regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (only complaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds line. Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with a Boneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like my littleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohnAnybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from mep@mint.net Fri Aug 18 04:45:44 2000 e7I9jTG21375 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 05:44:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Plane Choices I sometimes use a Lie Nielson low angle block plane.Check out their web site and see if the planes are similar. A word ofadvice. You want a plane with the sole ground dead flat. Most are notand you'll have to do it yourself. This is why I use two of their planes(can't recall the # now) the soles of which are ground flat and squarewith the sides. Mike from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Aug 18 05:34:37 2000 e7IAYKG22181 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C00952.836CFCA0 Thanks for that, Harry. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 11:23 PMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts My Hardy reels are dust-collecting funtionally dragless backups, a =hedge against emergency failure - which, with the excellence of the US =products, simply does not occur. Before you completely write off all reels British, you really =ought to check out the offerings from J. Austin Forbes. The owner, =Terrance O'Connor, is a bamboo nut like us. His reels not only look =good, they perform flawlessly. They are quickly becoming my favorites. = Disclaimer - I do have a small financial interest. I have a = ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C00952.836CFCA0 Thanks for that, =Harry. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it = fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau ----- Original Message ----- Harry= Cc: lblove@omniglobal.net ; 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000= PMSubject: Re: rod replacement parts MyHardy = dust-collecting funtionally dragless backups, a hedge against = failure - which, with the excellence of the US products, simply does = = all reels British, you really ought to check out the offerings from J. = = Harry Boyd http://HarryBoydbamboorod= ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C00952.836CFCA0-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Aug 18 06:15:23 2000 e7IBF0G22897 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Organization: vet Carsten I have to admit that a very large part of my preference for reels witheffective drag systems stems from my very mediocre/poor casting ability,andthat is a reality, not an affectation. When I am working out a long line,often in a situation where you only get one whack at the fish, it is notunusual for me to come unglued and lose my left hand grip of the line. If Iam using a reel with a click/pawl system, which amounts IMHO to little morethan an over-run control system, I will lose the cast completely, and withit, probably, the chance at the fish, with 50 feet of line and leadermacramed around my person and the fly stuck somewhere on my back whereIwill almost certainly have to take my shirt off to clear it. With my Abels ( which you will have to admit, don't look too bad; at least,not the original black ones ) I still have the line under control, and canmostly get it all going again. And it is handy to be able to be able to play the fish just that little bitmore aggressively with the support of a good drag. Down side, of course,with the Abels, is the silence, the dreadful, echoing silence! This next is to Steve, who surely merits the Duke of Edinburgh's Award forexport excellence - I am quite confident that my American reels will lastlonger than I will. And yes, I AM aware that some of the well-known Americanbrands use imported product; but those are not the reels I buy. Well, I DIDonce buy a CFO, and think it is a flimsy thing, and not at all well made. But, just because human nature is such a funny thing, I must admit that Irather like the Bougle! Good fishing Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message ----- Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hi Bob OK OK, I too have other reels than Hardy. I especially love a smallFenwick NightHawk I bought for #2-4 fishing. Looks good, worksall of the time and still make music from pawl/ratchet mechanism,when once a year I catch a fish. What I cant stand is all that marketing-hype the manufacturersblow out. Having seen bonefishing on the telly I can appriciatethe need for a brake on any reel. On the other hand the bestselling reel, and the inventors (or so they say themselves) ofthe large arbor reels, are Loop. For years they have sold reelswith no brakes whatsoever, and they are used for salmonfishingand anything else. My point is: You cant brake down a powerfull fish running down-stream. Dont know about bones, butt salmonfishing friends tellme You just hang on for dear life when a 30 pound Atlantic Salmon decidesto potter downstream. trainstopping power - I am sorry to say. Perhaps I simply never catch the biggies:-(( regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 8:53 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (onlycomplaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds line.Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with aBoneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like mylittleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message-----From: Carsten Jorgensen Date: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:06 PMSubject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Ken Cole Cc: Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 2:33 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn >Anybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Aug 18 07:24:16 2000 e7ICNjG23820 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 09:23:23 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts Peter and all,I dearly love my Hardy Bougle MkV but it is very overpriced no frills reel(perhaps that is one good thing about Hardy). The workmanshipseems fine, the only thing that really, really bugs me is why such a fine reel everything so right on a reel and then turn around and put a little patheticplastic clicker in it? What were they thinking?? Did Hardy build the reel thenhand it off to Acme Co. to install a clicker?? I guess every chain has its weaklink! Shawn petermckean wrote: Carsten I have to admit that a very large part of my preference for reels witheffective drag systems stems from my very mediocre/poor castingability, andthat is a reality, not an affectation. When I am working out a long line,often in a situation where you only get one whack at the fish, it is notunusual for me to come unglued and lose my left hand grip of the line. If Iam using a reel with a click/pawl system, which amounts IMHO to littlemorethan an over-run control system, I will lose the cast completely, and withit, probably, the chance at the fish, with 50 feet of line and leadermacramed around my person and the fly stuck somewhere on my backwhere Iwill almost certainly have to take my shirt off to clear it. With my Abels ( which you will have to admit, don't look too bad; at least,not the original black ones ) I still have the line under control, and canmostly get it all going again. And it is handy to be able to be able to play the fish just that little bitmore aggressively with the support of a good drag. Down side, of course,with the Abels, is the silence, the dreadful, echoing silence! This next is to Steve, who surely merits the Duke of Edinburgh's Award forexport excellence - I am quite confident that my American reels will lastlonger than I will. And yes, I AM aware that some of the well- knownAmericanbrands use imported product; but those are not the reels I buy. Well, I DIDonce buy a CFO, and think it is a flimsy thing, and not at all well made. But, just because human nature is such a funny thing, I must admit that Irather like the Bougle! Good fishing Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message -----From: "Carsten Jorgensen" Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 6:43 PMSubject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hi Bob OK OK, I too have other reels than Hardy. I especially love a smallFenwick NightHawk I bought for #2-4 fishing. Looks good, worksall of the time and still make music from pawl/ratchet mechanism,when once a year I catch a fish. What I cant stand is all that marketing-hype the manufacturersblow out. Having seen bonefishing on the telly I can appriciatethe need for a brake on any reel. On the other hand the bestselling reel, and the inventors (or so they say themselves) ofthe large arbor reels, are Loop. For years they have sold reelswith no brakes whatsoever, and they are used for salmonfishingand anything else. My point is: You cant brake down a powerfull fish running down-stream. Dont know about bones, butt salmonfishing friends tellme You just hang on for dear life when a 30 pound Atlantic Salmondecidesto potter downstream. fortrainstopping power - I am sorry to say. Perhaps I simply never catch the biggies:-(( regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 8:53 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (onlycomplaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds line.Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with aBoneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like mylittleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message-----From: Carsten Jorgensen Date: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:06 PMSubject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO's are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Ken Cole Cc: Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 2:33 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn > >Anybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. KC from bob@downandacross.com Fri Aug 18 08:11:01 2000 e7IDB0G25062 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts --=====================_9972017==_.ALT at, balances nicely with cane rods, and has a= undefinable charm. I love mine.Bob But, just because human nature is such a funny thing, I must admit that Irather like the Bougle! Good fishing Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message -----From: "Carsten J=F8rgensen" Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 6:43 PMSubject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts Hi Bob OK OK, I too have other reels than Hardy. I especially love a smallFenwick NightHawk I bought for #2-4 fishing. Looks good, worksall of the time and still make music from pawl/ratchet mechanism,when once a year I catch a fish. What I cant stand is all that marketing-hype the manufacturersblow out. Having seen bonefishing on the telly I can appriciatethe need for a brake on any reel. On the other hand the bestselling reel, and the inventors (or so they say themselves) ofthe large arbor reels, are Loop. For years they have sold reelswith no brakes whatsoever, and they are used for salmonfishingand anything else. My point is: You cant brake down a powerfull fish running down-stream. Dont know about bones, butt salmonfishing friends tellme You just hang on for dear life when a 30 pound Atlantic Salmon=decidesto potter downstream. fortrainstopping power - I am sorry to say. Perhaps I simply never catch the biggies:-(( regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 8:53 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts LOL, Ever been bonefishing, Carsten... Just kidding! I use a wildcollection of reels. I have a Hardy Princess, a Tioga Teton (nice for=theprice), a Bill Ballan (beautiful, but simple), a Lamson 1.0 (onlycomplaintI have is that it is completly full with a 4dt), and a pair of ComPo's(Danish made composite large spool reels... really great, but some won'tlike 'em cause they aren't classic). I don't have any complaints with=anyof them. Every reel I have, with the exception of a Fin Nor Wedding=cakethat I use for bonefish (aka Kawasaki's on a fly line) merely holds=line.Ido like the FinNor when I need something that will stay together with aBoneor Cuda on the end of the line, but other than that, I kinda like mylittleMix and Match collection of reels... including the Hardy Princess, whichholds my 2wt line. Later,Bob-----Original Message-----From: Carsten J=F8rgensen Date: Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:06 PMSubject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts I seem to remember that the CFO=B4s are made I am a Hardy fan myself I must admit.Like theUS reels as well. It is just that here in Denmarka Waterworks costs more than twice the priceof a Marquis. This is how it is with most of thebetter US reels. Since my Hardys never failed me,and since I never had any use for a brake thancan stop a train, I stick to the Hardys. I mean,I hardly ever hook a fish, and certainly nevercaught a train when fishing. Come to think of it,if one of them US reels with this trainstoppingbrakes could make me catch a bus - on time -maybe I should buy one. regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: Ken Cole Cc: Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 2:33 AMSubject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn > >Anybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just=curious. KC Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.combob@downandacross.com-- =====================_9972017==_.ALT The Bougle is amazing to look at, balances nicely with cane rods, and hasa undefinable charm. I love mine.Bob But, just because human nature is such afunnything, I must admit that Irather like the Bougle! Good fishing Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "Many men go fishing all their lives without realisingthat it is not fish they are after." Henry David Thoreau----- Original Message ----- Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts small mechanism, appriciate reels down- decides for wild (nice for the (onlycomplaint ComPo's won't complaints with any Wedding cake line.I with aBone mylittle which british is best steve about to better JMHO curious. Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3Ddownandacross.com bob@downandacross.com --=====================_9972017==_.ALT-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Aug 18 08:15:44 2000 e7IDFhG25512 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 06:15:36 -0700 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: JAF Reels Sure Mike, try this link: http://www.jaustinforbes.com/ Harry "Roberts, Michael" wrote: Harry,any chance of some pics of these reels?Mike --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Fri Aug 18 08:34:29 2000 e7IDYSG26149 Subject: Re: rod related/hardy replacement parts On Thu, 17 Aug 2000, Ken Cole wrote: go direct to hardys who will supply all reel partsbritish is beststeveSays Who???If I never hear the H word again it will be too soon, I'm about toscream as it is. If you can't find something made in America, betterthan anything anyone else makes, then you just didn't look. JMHOJohn Anybody out there fishing an Orvis reel? Battenkill...CFO. Just curious. Don't forget the Sage 500 series reels. Also made by HARDY. Anyone handle the new Hardy Viscount Large Arbor reels yet? Regards, BobFly Suppliesflysupplies@yahoo.com from dr.matro@airmail.net Fri Aug 18 09:28:44 2000 e7IEShG28222 sender: Organization: KC Graphics Subject: SRG 2000 donations mac-creator="4D4F5353" To my fellow list-members The Southern Rodmakers will gather near Mountain Home, AR. October26-28, 2000, and we need your help. If you will beattending, please bring along an item to be included in the SilentAuction. Can't make it this year? Well, just get those thingstogether and send them to Harry Boyd or myself. I'll publicly thank eachone of you (unless you wish to remainanonymous) via this forum. Harry and Rick Crenshaw are working on a short list of possible groupsthat need dough to help grow flyfishing in this partof the world (possible tax credit). Need to know what your donation goes I'll track the bidding for you. Some hints for possible donations: a dozen flies;a couple of furled leaders;custom reel seats or inserts;ferrules, guides, cork or grips;books, catalogs, magazines like that much coveted October, 1980 NationalGeographic;tools you've upgraded from;a copy of your taper notebook;your next-to-favorite 3 weight... ...you get the picture. Harry can be reached at:507 Highland St.Winnsboro, LA 71295318 435- 2278fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thank you and hope to see you in Mountain Home, Ken Cole c/o KC Graphics2858 Claudette Ave.Dallas, TX 75211214 969- 1030dr.matro@airmail.net from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Aug 18 09:38:04 2000 e7IEc3G28691 07:37:59 PDT Subject: furled leaders all, i have some questions about furled leaders andmaterials. if there is someone who makes or uses iwould like to here from you. contact me off the listand we can keep it to our selves if you like. timothy troester ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from utzerath@execpc.com Fri Aug 18 10:32:11 2000 e7IFWAG01188 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 10:32:01 -0500 Subject: Re: salmon/michigan Hi Tom, I fish on the good side of Lake Michigan so I don't know much about the PereMarquette R. The weight of the tackle you need depends a lot on the riverand the condition of the fish. I use a #9 St. Croix, but I am making ashortened "Big Dog" as an experiment. 7 is kind of light for my taste; I'mthinking more of a fast 8/9 in 108" length. Use a fighting butt; your handscan get pretty tired. You should check out the www.steelheadsite.com and also inquire about aguide (They are pretty inexpensive around here, like a hundred bucks a day.) September should be mostly Kings with possible Steelhead; Coho are later.Last year was very early; this year is expected to be the same. Study thenear-shore lake fishing reports and the river water levels. Fish willappear in different rivers at different times so be versatile. 1. Will this rod handle Michigan salmon? 2. Which salmon are they? King? 3. Does anyone know what dates the salmon start and what dates thesteelheadstart? I guess I would be fishing the PIerre Marquet river. Any suggestionswouldbe appreciated. Tom from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Aug 18 10:37:24 2000 e7IFbNG01464 Fri, 18 Aug 2000 08:37:05 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: furled leaders timothy troester wrote: all, i have some questions about furled leaders andmaterials. Timothy,Check with listmember Claude Freaner. -- He's the man!! -- Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Aug 18 14:57:38 2000 e7IJvbG10249 +0200 Subject: Sv: rod related/hardy replacement parts e7IJvbG10250 Yep, must admit I bought a #10 for salmonfishing. Havent triedit on the water yet, but looks and feels fine. A click-drag thatactually can be adjusted. For the money it is tremendous valueat least thats how it looks, but time will show. Looks perfect with my new 12' #9 cane Spey rod. regards,carsten Don't forget the Sage 500 series reels. Also made by HARDY. Anyone handle the new Hardy Viscount Large Arbor reels yet? Regards, BobFly Suppliesflysupplies@yahoo.com from earsdws@duke.edu Fri Aug 18 21:04:32 2000 e7J24VG16794 WAA27516; Organization: Hearing Research Laboratories Subject: Re: Hardy 9' CC de France I gave the 8' 1/2" (5wt) CC de France a good work out last year on the SanJuanin New Mexico. It was a real joy. The guide refused at first to let me use itand refused to be responsible if it blew up on a big fish. By the end of the1st day he asked, rather sheepishly, to give it a throw. Tonnes of power,takes a fair piece of line to load, needs a fairly big river.dws. David La Touche wrote: Hi all, Has anyone made/used the 9' CC de France? If so, how is it to castand generally to fish with? Before going ahead with this project I wouldappreciate hearing from someone who has first hand experience. TIA,Dave from briansr@point-net.com Sat Aug 19 03:41:14 2000 e7J8fDG20896 Subject: reel foot dimensions I have stupidly misplaced/lost the URL/info showing the standard reel footsizes.Could someone help me out?Also I'm looking for info on Robichaud reels.Such as history ,models,whenDave gave up making them,etcTIA Brian from anglport@con2.com Sat Aug 19 05:50:29 2000 e7JAoSG22244 Subject: Re: reel foot dimensions I must have been having connection problems when THAT baby went acrossthescreen. Can whoever has it post it for all?Thanks,Art At 04:40 AM 08/19/2000 -0400, brian sturrock wrote:I have stupidly misplaced/lost the URL/info showing the standard reel footsizes.Could someone help me out?Also I'm looking for info on Robichaud reels.Such as history ,models,whenDave gave up making them,etcTIA Brian from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Aug 19 07:32:43 2000 e7JCWgG23410 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Barbless Salmon hooks Friends,does anyone know of a source of barbless hooks for tyingsalmon flies??The largest I have found is size 10, I wanted larger like a 8 to 4.Thanks, and sorry for the non rod-building bandwidth, Shawn from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat Aug 19 12:47:06 2000 e7JHl5G29201 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: Rod conversion I'm trying to convert Bill Waara's 12 ft 6 wt 3 piece spey rod taper to a12 ft 7 wt 2 pc spey rod. This should be a breeze using either WaynesHexrod or Frank's web version of Hexrod. Unfortunately though, this is suchan unusual rod that the applications can't seem to handle it. When I tryModify Rod Fundamentals using Frank's program, the resulting screen doesnot allow me to keep the rod at 12 feet in length. It wants the rodshortened. You can see what I mean by retrieving the rod data from Frank's side at: http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/hexrod.html The rod ID is waara126 and it will remain there for three days. When I enter the the original Waara stresses in Wayne's program havingselect the 2pc and DT7 as the line, I get a Divide by Zero error. Would anyone know of any other way for me to make this conversion? Isthereany other software? Please don't get me wrong, I think Wayne's and Frank's software are topnotch and great free tools for rodbuilders. I think the rod I'm building issomething so unusual that their software has never asked to crunch thesetype of numbers. Thanks in advance, Richard from knut.tautra@caa.no Sat Aug 19 12:49:58 2000 e7JHnvG29351 Subject: unsubscribe RODMAKERS from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Aug 19 14:35:39 2000 e7JJZcG00686 Subject: Re: Rod conversion This might help, or at least get you started. As a rule of thumb - and it doesn't apply to every single case because the line weight differences are not linear - changing the diameter by 2 - 3 percent changes the line weight.Darryl from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Sat Aug 19 15:04:36 2000 e7JK4aG01297 Subject: Re: Rod conversion I'll look into it. I need an excuse to try this new DSL line.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Sat, 19 Aug 2000, Richard Nantel wrote: I'm trying to convert Bill Waara's 12 ft 6 wt 3 piece spey rod taper to a12 ft 7 wt 2 pc spey rod. This should be a breeze using either WaynesHexrod or Frank's web version of Hexrod. Unfortunately though, this issuchan unusual rod that the applications can't seem to handle it. When I tryModify Rod Fundamentals using Frank's program, the resulting screen doesnot allow me to keep the rod at 12 feet in length. It wants the rodshortened. You can see what I mean by retrieving the rod data from Frank's side at: http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/hexrod.html The rod ID is waara126 and it will remain there for three days. When I enter the the original Waara stresses in Wayne's program havingselect the 2pc and DT7 as the line, I get a Divide by Zero error. Would anyone know of any other way for me to make this conversion? Isthereany other software? Please don't get me wrong, I think Wayne's and Frank's software are topnotch and great free tools for rodbuilders. I think the rod I'm building issomething so unusual that their software has never asked to crunch thesetype of numbers. Thanks in advance, Richard from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Sat Aug 19 15:21:48 2000 e7JKLlG01783 Subject: Re: Rod conversion Should be OK now. Let me know if you have any other problems.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Sat, 19 Aug 2000, Richard Nantel wrote: I'm trying to convert Bill Waara's 12 ft 6 wt 3 piece spey rod taper to a12 ft 7 wt 2 pc spey rod. This should be a breeze using either WaynesHexrod or Frank's web version of Hexrod. Unfortunately though, this issuchan unusual rod that the applications can't seem to handle it. When I tryModify Rod Fundamentals using Frank's program, the resulting screen doesnot allow me to keep the rod at 12 feet in length. It wants the rodshortened. You can see what I mean by retrieving the rod data from Frank's side at: http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/hexrod.html The rod ID is waara126 and it will remain there for three days. When I enter the the original Waara stresses in Wayne's program havingselect the 2pc and DT7 as the line, I get a Divide by Zero error. Would anyone know of any other way for me to make this conversion? Isthereany other software? Please don't get me wrong, I think Wayne's and Frank's software are topnotch and great free tools for rodbuilders. I think the rod I'm building issomething so unusual that their software has never asked to crunch thesetype of numbers. Thanks in advance, Richard from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat Aug 19 17:15:48 2000 e7JMFlG03482 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: RE: Rod conversion Frank, The problem is that 12 feet isn't an allowable amount in using the ModifyRod Fundamentals button. If I recall, 10 feet is the maximum length. Thanks Richard -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 4:05 PM Cc: Rodmakers (E-mail)Subject: Re: Rod conversion I'll look into it. I need an excuse to try this new DSL line.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and aEmployed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Sat, 19 Aug 2000, Richard Nantel wrote: I'm trying to convert Bill Waara's 12 ft 6 wt 3 piece speyrod taper to a12 ft 7 wt 2 pc spey rod. This should be a breeze usingeither WaynesHexrod or Frank's web version of Hexrod. Unfortunatelythough, this is suchan unusual rod that the applications can't seem to handleit. When I tryModify Rod Fundamentals using Frank's program, theresulting screen doesnot allow me to keep the rod at 12 feet in length. It wants the rodshortened. You can see what I mean by retrieving the rod data fromFrank's side at: http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/hexrod.html The rod ID is waara126 and it will remain there for three days. When I enter the the original Waara stresses in Wayne'sprogram havingselect the 2pc and DT7 as the line, I get a Divide by Zero error. Would anyone know of any other way for me to make thisconversion? Is thereany other software? Please don't get me wrong, I think Wayne's and Frank'ssoftware are topnotch and great free tools for rodbuilders. I think the rodI'm building issomething so unusual that their software has never asked tocrunch thesetype of numbers. Thanks in advance, Richard from rvenneri@ulster.net Sat Aug 19 18:21:23 2000 e7JNLMG04356 0400 (172.16.0.179) Organization: Venneri's Subject: Re: Reel Seats Shawn Pineo wrote: Friends,I will soon be leaving the list and traveling to Ontariotill Xmas , hopefully I will have access to a computer while I am thereand can subscribe under my hotmail account. Before I leave though Iwanted to pass on a little praise for a fellow- members craftsmanship.I just received, among other "goodies", a reel seat for mylittle 2 wt. It is one of Robert Venerri's Catskill "Katterskill" tinysize seats,up/down slide with a maple burl insert. My jaw dropped to thefloor when I first saw it! I can't wait to see it on the finished rod. Ihave been using Robert's seats exclusively on all my rods (other than 2or 3 old stock seats I am trying to use up) and have always been veryimpressed with his workmanship, but this little piece of work REALLYimpressed me and now I think I may just keep this 2 wt for myself for achange ;^)Once again, I can't say enough about your seats Robert! I waslooking forward to meeting you at the Catskills gathering but I missedthe boat, maybe some other time/place.ShawnShawn,Thanks for the kind words. It is always great to hear from a customeresp when its to compliment. Sorry you will not be at the gathering it isalways fantastic time. Maybe next year. Best RegardsBob VVenneri's21 Chuck HIll RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882http://www.ulster.net/~rvenneri/index.html from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat Aug 19 19:36:42 2000 e7K0afG05235 Mail Server sims.3.5.1999.12.14.10.29.p8) Subject: RE: Rod conversion Frank, I can't thank you enough. The changes you made to the web version ofHexroddid the trick. I now have the taper I need. I can't thank you enough forhaving made these additions to your software, and in only a couple of hoursafter my post. Everyone, if you haven't used this software, you should. Richard Should be OK now. Let me know if you have any other problems.......................................................................Frank Stetzer from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Aug 19 22:28:23 2000 e7K3SMG07371 Subject: 4/5/6 strip by McClane An extract from A.J. McClane's excellent work, The Practical FlyFisherman" on the subject of 4/5/6 strip rods is now on my website.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Aug 19 22:58:29 2000 e7K3wSG07894 Subject: Wayne's New (Revised) Book Friends,The new edition of Wayne Cattanach's book onbuilding rods arrived Thursday. I finished reading it thisevening. I'll share my initial impressions with anyonewho's interested.First, this is a significant enhancement of theoriginal work. Many new pictures, drawings, and diagramsare included. Second, someone who has built 20+ rods likeme will learn quite a few tricks of the trade. Third, forbeginners, this is the best book on the market, noquestion. It is simple, straightforward, forthright -- yetit is detailed enough to answer almost any question.When Jack Howell's book came out a couple of yearsago, I thought it was a close second to Wayne's originalwork. This book has raised the bar significantly.Wayne has been a part of this list since itsbeginning. He's given many of us the necessary boost ofconfidence to believe that we can move from wanna-be's torod makers. He has poured his heart and soul into buildingboth rods and rodmakers. I, for one, am grateful. Not onlyis he a friend of rodmakers in general, he's my friend, andI'm proud to say it. -- Great job Wayne! Harry Boyd PS - no affiliation, etc. but the book is available onlinethrough Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and I'm sure throughothers as well. from cnightengale@home.com Sat Aug 19 23:38:02 2000 e7K4c1G08538 ;Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:37:55 -0700 Subject: Re: Wayne's New (Revised) Book It's available from alldirect.com for $30. No affiliation but I have boughta number of books from this site and am pleased with their service. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Wayne's New (Revised) Book Friends,The new edition of Wayne Cattanach's book onbuilding rods arrived Thursday. I finished reading it thisevening. I'll share my initial impressions with anyonewho's interested.First, this is a significant enhancement of theoriginal work. Many new pictures, drawings, and diagramsare included. Second, someone who has built 20+ rods likeme will learn quite a few tricks of the trade. Third, forbeginners, this is the best book on the market, noquestion. It is simple, straightforward, forthright -- yetit is detailed enough to answer almost any question.When Jack Howell's book came out a couple of yearsago, I thought it was a close second to Wayne's originalwork. This book has raised the bar significantly.Wayne has been a part of this list since itsbeginning. He's given many of us the necessary boost ofconfidence to believe that we can move from wanna-be's torod makers. He has poured his heart and soul into buildingboth rods and rodmakers. I, for one, am grateful. Not onlyis he a friend of rodmakers in general, he's my friend, andI'm proud to say it. -- Great job Wayne! Harry Boyd PS - no affiliation, etc. but the book is available onlinethrough Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and I'm sure throughothers as well. from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Aug 20 04:10:28 2000 e7K9ARG11763 +0000 Subject: UK Rodmakers Bash 2001 A few of us Brits are currently trying to organise a formal ( for whatover the past few years has been an informal get together of a few hambuilders )get together for 2001.Venue and date to be confirmed but ifyou would like to attend ( or know someone who may be interested ?)please e-mail me your details so that I may provisionally put you on thecontact list.......tight lines.........Paul Blakeley from sats@gte.net Sun Aug 20 12:44:49 2000 e7KHiiG18192 ; id MAA13875525 Subject: Re: Ultra light lines The lightest rods I make in bamboo are 2 weights, and even a rod thatlight requires some extra care in your workmanship. I fished 2 days lastweek with a 7'7" 2 weight bamboo, and found it to be a joy. Of course, therewas no wind. And I was fishing slow moving pools on a spring creek. Thatparticular rod does a good job with tiny dry flies out to about 50-55 feet. But that's stretching my casting limits pretty far with a 2 weight! OKAY Harry, Where's the taper? ----------------------------Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Florida(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netMeet me at http://home1.gte.net/sats from caneman@clnk.com Sun Aug 20 13:45:53 2000 e7KIjqG19307 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Sun, 20 Aug 2000 13:40:08 -0500 Subject: fishing cane This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C00AAC.C6B3D1E0 Guys,Went night fishing on the Lower Mountain Fork last night and just =had to report to the list...I had been fishing in the afternoon on the LMF with not much =luck... one brown about 12 inches was all the day fishing produced. =Went to Beavers Bend Fly Shop (owned by Sid... If you fish the river, =you have to go meet Sid). I met a guy at Sids Fly Shop named Sterling. =He is a "Mountain Fork Expert" and invited me to fish the Hexagenia =Hatch in the deep part of the river, except that he had a kick boat for =the deep water, and I did not, but knew a place where I could hike in =and fish it from the shallows. I was game for it... and, let me tell =ya, I had a blast! We got into rainbows and browns until it was too =dark to see, then after that, just kept casting, and when we heard =something rise in the vicinity of our flies, just set the hook. I lost =count, but landed well in excess of 20 trout (stopped counting at 14), =in the 12 to 18" range, mostly rainbows, but did catch one 16" brown =trout.Now... I have fallen in many rivers, but last night was the topper =of all my falling adventures... I fell fell twice... in the same =spot... off the same damn rock!!! First fall just put me up to my neck =in 63 degree water. Yep, it was cold, and I was wet wading to begin =with. On the second fall, I honestly thought that I had broken my leg, =which is black as your hat today, but while sitting there moaning, a Bow =rose about 10 feet from me, and from my non-ambulatory position in the =river, I cast to him and caught him. Even landed him without removing =my butt and my aching leg from the rock on which I landed. In any case, =the leg was not broken, although I am sporting a pretty good limp today! =:^)Apparently, during one of my falls, I lost my flashlight , so I had =to hike in the dark on a moonless night, what should have been about a =quarter of a mile through flat woods back to the car. Keep in mind, no =moon, and the tree canopy was so thick you couldn't see the stars... Did =you ever notice how you can't remember in the dark if the moss grows on =the north side or the south side of the tree??? :^o Well, I think I =covered somewhere close to 6 miles. My legs look like I've been =tortured by two angry Tom Cats. Like I said, I was wet wading, and had =on my wading boots and nylon Columbia shorts... well now they look like =nylon dubbing, but still, not much protection for the legs. I hit every =briar patch in the woods, and probably some of them twice (yes, I WAS =lost for awhile, but geez, there wasn't anyone to ask directions from! I =tried talking to the Owls, but all they would say is WHO, WHO and I =really wanted to know WHERE? WHERE?). I am now on first name bases with=ever low hanging limb in Southeast Oklahoma!Also, on my "altered" route back to the car, I fell down a ravine. =Geez, the ground looked flat in the dark, and besides, there were no =ravines the way I went in, and I really think someone dug that sucker =while I was on the river! I did save the rod, but didn't do too good of =a job of saving my back, ribs and butt... all are extremely sore, as are =my feet, knees and neck! The abrasion over the right eye is no big =deal... it will heal faster than the rest of me! *S*In any case, after that fiasco, Sterling finally found me walking =down a road about 3 miles from where we went in (keep in mind that we =were only fishing about a quarter mile from the cars) and took me back =to the Blue Bomb. He went on to the Power House to fish for Walleye on =Fly after that, and I told him I didn't think my body could take any = The Hex's were huge! Extended body, deer hair, on a #6 hook, but =that was what the little trouties wanted, so we gave it to them.All in all, a pretty damn good night of fishing! Matter of fact, an =excellent night. However, I truly think we need to re-classify =flyfishing as a contact sport, cause I look worse than I used to in my =Football days!Now... Anyone want to go fishing with me! LOL I seem to have =problems finding a fishing partner that can handle "Flyfishing with =Bob's Rules" :^) Maybe, becaue I consider last night to be a GREAT =fishing adventure!Oh, one last note... all of the fish were caught on a 5'6" 2pc 4wt =cane... she never wavered, even when we were boulder fishing in the =ravine! Later,Bruiser Bob ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C00AAC.C6B3D1E0 Guys, and just had to report to the list... the Hexagenia Hatch in the deep part of the river, except that he had a = boat for the deep water, and I did not, but knew a place where I could = then after that, just kept casting, and when we heard something rise in = excess of 20 trout (stopped counting at 14), in the 12 to 18" = rainbows, but did catch one 16" brown trout. same spot... off the same damn rock!!! First fall just put me up to my = which is black as your hat today, but while sitting there moaning, a Bow = about 10 feet from me, and from my non-ambulatory position in the river, = broken, although I am sporting a pretty good limp today! :^) , so I had to hike in the dark on a moonless night, what should have = moon, and the tree canopy was so thick you couldn't see the stars... Did = ever notice how you can't remember in the dark if the moss grows on the = and nylon Columbia shorts... well now they look like nylon dubbing, but = not much protection for the legs. I hit every briar patch in the woods, = probably some of them twice (yes, I WAS lost for awhile, but geez, there = anyone to ask directions from! I tried talking to the Owls, but all they = first name bases with ever low hanging limb in Southeast Oklahoma! there were no ravines the way I went in, and I really think someone dug = good of a job of saving my back, ribs and butt... all are extremely =