Subject: Sv: Bamboo for Russia e8AAaGG10553 Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-))We used have common king for centuries (a dane, of course)but then we got fed up with all this trouble with the norwegiansand gave them a prince, they could have for a king themselves.Now this is where Danny starts fuming:-)))) Still, there are bonds between norwegians and us danes.We tell funny stories about swedes, and rightly so, but NEVERabout norwegians. Example: Help keeping Denmark clean - escort a swede to the border. just like the Lada stories, in fact. Mr. Markov is velcome to mail me off-list, and I'll see if Ican help him. No need to write Danny, as usual the norwegianshave to rely on us danes - Danny bought bamboo from me whenhe started rodmaking:-)) Now if this mail don't get Danny started, nothing will:-) regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Bamboo for Russia Whats the rear wiper for on a Lada ?To keep your hands warm when pushing it......teee...heee...he We should stop all this we now have a Russian wanabe on the list............has anyone managed to help Mr Markov with a supplier ofBamboo in Russia ......what about our Norwegian Friends, geographicallythey are quite close.Come on in Danny and Carsten , can you help him ? Paul from bob@downandacross.com Sun Sep 10 07:13:44 2000 e8ACDhG11623 Subject: Re: source of bamboo --=====================_533562==_.ALT You could try Cary Chan, he sells small quantities. BAMBOOIRL@aol.com At 12:39 PM 9/10/00 +0400, markov wrote:HI rodmakers,I'm beginner at rod making (i'm flytyer). In great site of Thomas Penrose i found lot of tips haw to make, and some sources of tonkin cane. To bay large quantity is too expensive for me. Would you tell me haw many bamboo i will need to make 3 rods (#4-6. no long), and i need in alternative sources then mention in Penrose's site Charles H. Demarest, inc and The Bamboo Broker Andy Royer.Thanks in advanceVladimir Markov, Russiavladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestead.com/hopper.html Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_533562==_.ALT You could try Cary Chan, he sells small quantities.BAMBOOIRL@aol.com At 12:39 PM 9/10/00 +0400, markov wrote:HI rodmakers, I'm beginner at rod making (i'm flytyer). In great site of Thomas Penrose To bay large quantity is too expensive for me. Would you tell me haw manybamboo i will need to make 3 rods (#4-6. no long), and i need inalternative sources then mention in Penrose's site Charles H. Demarest, Thanks in advanceVladimir Markov, Russiavladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestead.com/hopper.html Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_533562==_.ALT-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Sep 10 08:09:45 2000 e8AD9gG12577 Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:30:43 +0800 Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:30:37 +0800 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia ,"Rich Jezioro" ,"'RODMAKERS'" e8AD9jG12584 At 12:39 PM 9/10/00 +0200, Carsten Jorgensen wrote:Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-)) That wouldn't be an insult and can in fact be achieved if he works at itreal hard :-) Tony/**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Sep 10 10:35:49 2000 e8AFZmG15103 Sun, 10 Sep 2000 16:35:44 +0100 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Tony,In the mid eighties I used to work for Woodside Petroleum in Perth and eon the North Rankin platform offshore from Karatha(I hope i've spelledit correctly ?)......I simply luvvvvvv Aussie land and everthing aboutit.Perhaps I'll try a little villany this week and try to become a'Bruce'....free passage etc if I can put up with the chains ,bread andwater etc etc during transit ......tee heeeee,heeeeeee.Regards.........Paul Tony Young wrote: At 12:39 PM 9/10/00 +0200, Carsten Jorgensen wrote:Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-)) That wouldn't be an insult and can in fact be achieved if he works at itreal hard :-) Tony /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Sep 10 11:09:44 2000 e8AG9fG15649 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 00:09:20 +0800 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia petermckean ,"'RODMAKERS'" e8AG9hG15650 Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on get here. When you think about it you've gotta wonder just what the hell the POMEs(Prisoner Of Mother England) were thinking when they sent the *BAD* guysout here. I mean the good guys got to live and die in London slums.Of course, it wasn't all beer and skittles at first..... Tony At 04:35 PM 9/10/00 +0100, paul.blakley wrote:Tony,In the mid eighties I used to work for Woodside Petroleum in Perth and eon the North Rankin platform offshore from Karatha(I hope i've spelledit correctly ?)......I simply luvvvvvv Aussie land and everthing aboutit.Perhaps I'll try a little villany this week and try to become a'Bruce'....free passage etc if I can put up with the chains ,bread andwater etc etc during transit ......tee heeeee,heeeeeee.Regards.........Paul Tony Young wrote: At 12:39 PM 9/10/00 +0200, Carsten Jorgensen wrote:Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-)) That wouldn't be an insult and can in fact be achieved if he works at itreal hard :-) Tony /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Sep 10 18:21:17 2000 e8ANLCG24254 Sun, 10 Sep 2000 18:18:29 -0500 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Careful there Paul, those Scots still haven't forgotten William Wallace ! GMA from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Sun Sep 10 18:37:41 2000 e8ANbeG24754 +0000 Subject: Catskills Gathering. I just wanted to send a word of thanks to Chris Bogart and everyone whoworked to make this years gathering the success that it was. The BaitFisherman (Andy) and I actually missed our exit on the way home becausewe were reminiscing about the wonderful time we had. We ended up takingthe "scenic route" home, but made about the same time getting here. Thanks again! Dennis from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Sep 10 19:02:06 2000 e8B025G25446 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: source of bamboo This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C01B48.83266260 Seems a round about way to get cane... Cary Chan, the bamboo Earl has arelative in China, seems to me if there are no trade barriers, that maybeVlad could get cane from China somehow... It just seems silly to have to have it shipped to the USA and then back toRussia... heck, most people don't travel that much! My two cents... Darrellwww.vfish.net-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 1:40 AM Subject: source of bamboo HI rodmakers,I'm beginner at rod making (i'm flytyer). In great site of Thomas Penrosei found lot of tips haw to make, and some sources of tonkin cane. To baylarge quantity is too expensive for me. Would you tell me haw many bamboo iwill need to make 3 rods (#4-6. no long), and i need in alternative sourcesthen mention in Penrose's site Charles H. Demarest, inc and The BambooBroker Andy Royer.Thanks in advanceVladimir Markov, Russiavladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestead.com/hopper.html ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C01B48.83266260 a round about way to get cane... Cary Chan, the bamboo Earl has a = China, seems to me if there are no trade barriers, that maybe Vlad could = cane from China somehow... Russia... heck, most people don't travel that much! cents... Darrellwww.vfish.net markovSent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 1:40 = bambooHI rodmakers, great site of Thomas Penrose i found lot of tips haw to make, = sources of tonkin cane. To bay large quantity is too expensive for me. = you tell me haw many bamboo i will need to make 3 rods (#4-6. no = Royer.Thanks in advanceVladimir Markov, Russiavladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestea=d.com/hopper.html ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C01B48.83266260-- from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun Sep 10 20:01:11 2000 e8B11AG26794 Subject: Re: Literature Hey peter,Watch that grits stuff-I happen to like 'em better'n truffles- perhaps you "transported" types had too much grits on the boat from England?:-)Regards,Hank. from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Sep 10 21:04:44 2000 e8B24gG28516 Mail VirusWall NT); Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:49:42 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) paul.blakley@ntlworld.com "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on get here. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Sep 10 21:44:51 2000 e8B2ilG29616 Subject: RE: source of bamboo There is a fellow out here in Australia who went down the road ofimporting some bamboo direct from China and it was a complete epic.I believe the bamboo has to pass through 3 or 4 different"states" or trade areas on it's way to the port of exit andeach has it's own bureaucratic hurdles to jump over.This fellow actually ordered 100 culms and somewhere between the lastofficial stage and having it loaded into a shipping container it all wentmissing.Because the person now knew all the hasles and how to overcome them (upto loading into a container that is) as well as having picked up a bit ofChinese as well no doubt he decided it was "in for a penny, in for apound" and bought another 100 culms and began the whole processover.This time when the bamboo finally arrived to be loaded the original 100culms mysteriously re-appeared.So, 200 culms were shipped to him.Now, if you've ever used a ship to get stuff to you from somewhere elseyou'd know they don't operate like planes and nobody seems to ever knowjust what's going on with your stuff until it's actually in a warehouseon you own country's soil and I think these 200 culms took about 4 monthsto arrive. The whole epic journey took over 1 year.At least here once the all the fumigation BS is handled and all theproper documents are signed and paid for you can just pick the bamboo upand take it all home but I'd think if the bamboo was headed for Russiayou'd only have made it about one half way through the bureaucracy andI'd be pretty happy to just buy the bamboo from the usual sources in theUS like the Demarests or whoever else is selling it and forget about thegeography of it all.Unless of course you just enjoy banging your head on the wall which doesfeel very good once you stop. Tony At 04:59 PM 9/10/00 -0700, Darrell A. Lee wrote: Seemsa round about way to get cane... Cary Chan, the bamboo Earl has arelative in China, seems to me if there are no trade barriers, that maybeVlad could get cane from China somehow... It just seems silly tohave to have it shipped to the USA and then back to Russia... heck, mostpeople don't travel that much! My twocents... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu]On Behalf Of markovSent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 1:40 AM Subject: source of bamboo HI rodmakers, I'm beginner at rod making (i'm flytyer). In great site of Thomas cane. To bay large quantity is too expensive for me. Would you tell me hawmany bamboo i will need to make 3 rods (#4-6. no long), and i need inalternative sources then mention in Penrose's site Charles H. Demarest, Thanks in advanceVladimir Markov, Russiavladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestead.com/hopper.html /**************************************************************************/ AV Young /**************************************************************************/ from drinkr@voicenet.com Sun Sep 10 23:19:22 2000 e8B4JLG02086 (207.103.136.115) Subject: Ferrule Dimensions I have noticed that the ferrule dimensions in length in the Garrison Bookand in the Patent Chart available through Chris Bogart's Web Site aredifferent in male and female slide length. My collection of ferrules leadstoward the longer lengths from Garrison but I was wondering why thedimensions on Patent Chart are so much different in length from whatGarrison wrote down. Are the Patent Chart dimensions truncated versionsofthe same sizes. If not is there a noticeable difference in the strengthsof both. I have been turning out both sizes on the lathe and was concernedabout a dimensional error. Thanks in advance for any advice .An aside for Wayne, if he is listening. The head of maintenance in myschool district travels in a company SUV and wears a three piece suit onmost days of the week. Congratulations on your promotion I can onlyimagine you in a suit and tie. David Rinker from vladmar@angara.ru Sun Sep 10 23:44:57 2000 e8B4isG02742 ME-0197614) +0900 Subject: Bamboo for Russia This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C01BE7.B5DB0900 Thank you for reply to my question. I am writing emails to people you =recommend me to contact. There is not trade embargo problems between =Russia and China and Cine is near my area (i live in Irkutsk near Lake =Baikal) but i don't know any addresses in China where sell bamboo. Best Fishes and RodsVlad orVladimir Markovvladmar@angara.ru ------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C01BE7.B5DB0900 Hi Rodmakers, Thank you for reply to my question. I = emails to people you recommend me to contact. There is not trade embargo= problems between Russia and China and Cine is near my area (i live in = bamboo. Best Fishes and RodsVlad orVladimir Markovvladmar@angara.ruhttp://vladmar.homestea= ------=_NextPart_000_00C1_01C01BE7.B5DB0900-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Mon Sep 11 03:52:56 2000 e8B8qsG06441 Subject: Re: Literature Organization: vet Hi Hank Never tried a truffle. At about a kazillion dollars a kilo for an acquiredtaste, who wants to acquire it? Probably taste like mushrooms anyway. I have a friend, an elderly American woman ( who, incidentally, gave me agreat Phillipson Smuggler that used belong to her husband ) who feeds megrits, though. My ancestors were Scottish and would have been very pleased to getanythingas good as grits on their plates. My forebears were not sent out here asconvicts, but obviously they didn't come here because they were eccentricmillionaires either; and I think they would have regarded the porridge onthe convict ships as a quantum leap in cuisine after whatever they used toeat at home in Oban. Englishmen, probably. Makes you think, doesn't it. I still don't know what a Millward is. You heard the story about the father and his son who were on a tour inAustralia, and the son saw a dog licking its bottom. "Why is that dog licking its bottom, father?", asked the boy. "Because it just bit a (here please fill in whatever minority group doesn'toffend you personally), son, and it's trying to get the taste out of itsmouth!" Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Literature Hey peter,Watch that grits stuff-I happen to like 'em better'n truffles- perhapsyou"transported" types had too much grits on the boat from England?:-)Regards,Hank. from danny.twang@porsgrunnsdagblad.no Mon Sep 11 07:33:21 2000 e8BCXHG09132 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia BA3256FD0DC77CBF19752920" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- BA3256FD0DC77CBF19752920 Hi Gals, Sorry 'bout the delay, been busy fishing for grayling:-)))The 8052 The Force, performed outstanding in the windy condition. I think what You guys need is a couple of days of good fishing. Don't stayhomeduringthe weekend and get bugged to do all kind of housework..........Then You maybe don't have to bug me!! danny, (bastard, born and breed in Norway) Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-))We used have common king for centuries (a dane, of course)but then we got fed up with all this trouble with the norwegiansand gave them a prince, they could have for a king themselves.Now this is where Danny starts fuming:-)))) Still, there are bonds between norwegians and us danes.We tell funny stories about swedes, and rightly so, but NEVERabout norwegians. Example: Help keeping Denmark clean - escort a swede to the border. just like the Lada stories, in fact. Mr. Markov is velcome to mail me off-list, and I'll see if Ican help him. No need to write Danny, as usual the norwegianshave to rely on us danes - Danny bought bamboo from me whenhe started rodmaking:-)) Now if this mail don't get Danny started, nothing will:-) regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: paul.blakley Cc: Rich Jezioro ; 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 12:12 PMSubject: Bamboo for Russia Whats the rear wiper for on a Lada ?To keep your hands warm when pushing it......teee...heee...he We should stop all this we now have a Russian wanabe on the list............has anyone managed to help Mr Markov with a supplier ofBamboo in Russia ......what about our Norwegian Friends, geographicallythey are quite close.Come on in Danny and Carsten , can you help him ? Paul from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Sep 11 07:41:43 2000 e8BCfhG09342 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 07:39:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Literature That sounds like what some say about Haggish ! (grin) Being raised in the deep South, we had hominy, and hominy grits prettyoften. The only way I really liked grits, was the next day, they were sliced from a cold bread pan, and fried in the skillet ! No wonder life spans wereso short, in th early days ! GMA from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Mon Sep 11 07:50:31 2000 e8BCoUG09633 +0200 Subject: Sv: Sv: Bamboo for Russia e8BCoVG09634 Welcome back, Danny Either You make small rods, or those graylings are BIG.Agree - more fishing, less fussing (a PHY quote) And yes, I spend the week-end working according tothe inevitable honey-do's . If I said it was much more funthan fishing, would You beleive me? No? well, you areright. regards,carsten from if6were9@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 11 10:09:10 2000 e8BF99G14753 Subject: Off Topic tying vise Sorry for the off topic post, but my knowledge of fly tying equipment ingeneral and vises in particular is limited. I'm looking at a vise made Apex. Has any list member had any experience with it? Any comments onrotary vises, pro or con, are welcomed.Thanks in advance for all your help. Pat from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 11 11:59:58 2000 e8BGxwG19520 ;Mon, 11 Sep 2000 16:59:50 +0000 Subject: Re: Off Topic tying vise Pat, I don't know much about the Anvil, but I have a Renzetti Travellerrotary and love it. It's great for wrapping hackle, tinsel, etc., andmaking epoxy flies. I would never go back to a standard vise again. Dennis Pat Tumblin wrote: Sorry for the off topic post, but my knowledge of fly tying equipment ingeneral and vises in particular is limited. I'm looking at a vise made Apex. Has any list member had any experience with it? Any comments onrotary vises, pro or con, are welcomed.Thanks in advance for all your help. Pat from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Mon Sep 11 12:02:16 2000 e8BH2FG19677 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 18:02:08 +0100 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Danny,Nice fish,complete with an Hardy LRH ?Regards.....Paul Danny Twang wrote: Hi Gals, Sorry 'bout the delay, been busy fishing for grayling:-)))The 8052 The Force, performed outstanding in the windy condition. I think what You guys need is a couple of days of good fishing. Don't stayhomeduringthe weekend and get bugged to do all kind of housework..........Then You maybe don't have to bug me!! danny, (bastard, born and breed in Norway) Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-))We used have common king for centuries (a dane, of course)but then we got fed up with all this trouble with the norwegiansand gave them a prince, they could have for a king themselves.Now this is where Danny starts fuming:-)))) Still, there are bonds between norwegians and us danes.We tell funny stories about swedes, and rightly so, but NEVERabout norwegians. Example: Help keeping Denmark clean - escort a swede to the border. just like the Lada stories, in fact. Mr. Markov is velcome to mail me off-list, and I'll see if Ican help him. No need to write Danny, as usual the norwegianshave to rely on us danes - Danny bought bamboo from me whenhe started rodmaking:-)) Now if this mail don't get Danny started, nothing will:-) regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: paul.blakley Cc: Rich Jezioro ; 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 12:12 PMSubject: Bamboo for Russia Whats the rear wiper for on a Lada ?To keep your hands warm when pushing it......teee...heee...he We should stop all this we now have a Russian wanabe on the list............has anyone managed to help Mr Markov with a supplier ofBamboo in Russia ......what about our Norwegian Friends, geographicallythey are quite close.Come on in Danny and Carsten , can you help him ? Paul ------------------------------------------------------------------------[Image] from cathcreek@hotmail.com Mon Sep 11 12:18:42 2000 e8BHIfG20300 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 10:18:33 -0700 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 17:18:33 GMT Subject: Re: Off Topic tying vise FILETIME=[501AEF40:01C01C14] Rotaries are great. I have a Bergstrom rotary that I absolutely love. Unfortunately, Gary passed away earlier this year, so these vises won't be produced anymore. Oregon flyfishing lost a great man when he passed, and I lost someone I considered to be a great role model. Robert Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com From: Dennis Haftel CC: "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Off Topic tying viseDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:05:45 -0700 Pat, I don't know much about the Anvil, but I have a Renzetti Travellerrotary and love it. It's great for wrapping hackle, tinsel, etc., andmaking epoxy flies. I would never go back to a standard vise again. Dennis Pat Tumblin wrote: Sorry for the off topic post, but my knowledge of fly tying equipment ingeneral and vises in particular is limited. I'm looking at a vise made Apex. Has any list member had any experience with it? Any commentsonrotary vises, pro or con, are welcomed.Thanks in advance for all your help. Pat _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from cathcreek@hotmail.com Mon Sep 11 13:16:49 2000 e8BIGmG22430 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:16:37 -0700 11 Sep 2000 18:16:37 GMT paul.blakley@ntlworld.com rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia FILETIME=[6CEB8410:01C01C1C] Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean , "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from yves@hwy97.net Mon Sep 11 13:37:35 2000 e8BIbYG23265 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 11:37:36 -0700 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia e8BIbZG23266 Danny: I thought that the 8062 (8'0", 6 wt., 2 piece) was the onedesignated as "the Force". Am I wrong? Dave At 02:36 PM 9/11/00 +0200, Danny Twang wrote:Hi Gals, Sorry 'bout the delay, been busy fishing for grayling:-)))The 8052 The Force, performed outstanding in the windy condition. I think what You guys need is a couple of days of good fishing. Don't stayhomeduringthe weekend and get bugged to do all kind of housework..........Then You maybe don't have to bug me!! danny, (bastard, born and breed in Norway) Paul Calling me a Norwegian is like calling a brit an Aussie:-))We used have common king for centuries (a dane, of course)but then we got fed up with all this trouble with the norwegiansand gave them a prince, they could have for a king themselves.Now this is where Danny starts fuming:-)))) Still, there are bonds between norwegians and us danes.We tell funny stories about swedes, and rightly so, but NEVERabout norwegians. Example: Help keeping Denmark clean - escort a swede to the border. just like the Lada stories, in fact. Mr. Markov is velcome to mail me off-list, and I'll see if Ican help him. No need to write Danny, as usual the norwegianshave to rely on us danes - Danny bought bamboo from me whenhe started rodmaking:-)) Now if this mail don't get Danny started, nothing will:-) regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: paul.blakley Cc: Rich Jezioro ; 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 12:12 PMSubject: Bamboo for Russia Whats the rear wiper for on a Lada ?To keep your hands warm when pushing it......teee...heee...he We should stop all this we now have a Russian wanabe on the list............has anyone managed to help Mr Markov with a supplier ofBamboo in Russia ......what about our Norwegian Friends, geographicallythey are quite close.Come on in Danny and Carsten , can you help him ? Paul Attachment Converted: "c:\eudora\attach\Harr.jpg" from yves@hwy97.net Mon Sep 11 14:19:49 2000 e8BJJmG25439 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:19:50 -0700 Subject: Re: Literature Peter, Milwards Fishing Tackle, Ltd. are (were) located in Redditch,England, in 1960, when I purchased one of their rods (9' Flymaster, 2piece, DT - HDH). Over the years it sat in hot attics, and otherbamboo-unfriendly places, until I resurrected it last year. It haddeveloped a peculiar condition in which when stressed (bent) as whenplaying a fish, it stayed bent (but could be straightened by hand)! Ipresume that the glue used in gluing up the strips might have deteriorated,but don't know quite what to do about it. I'm reluctant to take it apartand glue it up again, even if this could be done. Also, I don't know whathappened to Milwards - they were a family business, I think, at the timeManaged by Col. H.G.V. Milward, T.D., D.L. (ref. 1960 catalog), and theyhad a location in London. They used to take subtle pot-shots (not toounkind) at Hardy about rod construction methods, but their rods wereprobably of equal quality. At any rate, the rod I have is a bit of a club are much better tapers out there at present. The finish is good and thestripper and tip-top are agate, wraps yellow/blk jasper. But the guidesare small, and I'll have to find a silk line to refinish if I plan to useit (anyone out there with an old silk line that he'd part with?). Ifanyone has recent info about Milwards it would be of interest. Dave At 07:51 PM 9/11/00 +1000, petermckean wrote:Hi Hank I still don't know what a Millward is. You heard the story about the father and his son who were on a tour inAustralia, and the son saw a dog licking its bottom. "Why is that dog licking its bottom, father?", asked the boy. "Because it just bit a (here please fill in whatever minority group doesn'toffend you personally), son, and it's trying to get the taste out of itsmouth!" Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:00 AMSubject: Re: Literature Hey peter,Watch that grits stuff-I happen to like 'em better'n truffles- perhapsyou"transported" types had too much grits on the boat from England?:-)Regards,Hank. from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Mon Sep 11 14:28:51 2000 e8BJSkG25867 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 20:28:41 +0100 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Literature David, Milwards feature in a tackle museum in .......Redditch with it's ownweb site.......I viewed it quite recently. When I find the URL i'll postit to the list.........Paul David La Touche wrote: Peter, Milwards Fishing Tackle, Ltd. are (were) located in Redditch,England, in 1960, when I purchased one of their rods (9' Flymaster, 2piece, DT - HDH). Over the years it sat in hot attics, and otherbamboo-unfriendly places, until I resurrected it last year. It haddeveloped a peculiar condition in which when stressed (bent) as whenplaying a fish, it stayed bent (but could be straightened by hand)! Ipresume that the glue used in gluing up the strips might have deteriorated,but don't know quite what to do about it. I'm reluctant to take it apartand glue it up again, even if this could be done. Also, I don't know whathappened to Milwards - they were a family business, I think, at the timeManaged by Col. H.G.V. Milward, T.D., D.L. (ref. 1960 catalog), and theyhad a location in London. They used to take subtle pot-shots (not toounkind) at Hardy about rod construction methods, but their rods wereprobably of equal quality. At any rate, the rod I have is a bit of a club are much better tapers out there at present. The finish is good and thestripper and tip-top are agate, wraps yellow/blk jasper. But the guidesare small, and I'll have to find a silk line to refinish if I plan to useit (anyone out there with an old silk line that he'd part with?). Ifanyone has recent info about Milwards it would be of interest. Dave At 07:51 PM 9/11/00 +1000, petermckean wrote:Hi Hank I still don't know what a Millward is. You heard the story about the father and his son who were on a tour inAustralia, and the son saw a dog licking its bottom. "Why is that dog licking its bottom, father?", asked the boy. "Because it just bit a (here please fill in whatever minority group doesn'toffend you personally), son, and it's trying to get the taste out of itsmouth!" Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:00 AMSubject: Re: Literature Hey peter,Watch that grits stuff-I happen to like 'em better'n truffles- perhapsyou"transported" types had too much grits on the boat from England?:-)Regards,Hank. from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Mon Sep 11 15:07:51 2000 e8BK7nG27891 Mon, 11 Sep 2000 21:07:45 +0100 FISHWOOL@aol.com, "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Literature The web sites( there are several ) can be found by using the searchengine; www.google.com and then doing a search for;Forge Mill Museum.There are several web pages listed.....have a look at them all and youwill find some information and old pictures/photos aboutMillwards.........Paul "paul.blakley" wrote: David, Milwards feature in a tackle museum in .......Redditch with it's ownweb site.......I viewed it quite recently. When I find the URL i'll postit to the list.........Paul David La Touche wrote: Peter, Milwards Fishing Tackle, Ltd. are (were) located in Redditch,England, in 1960, when I purchased one of their rods (9' Flymaster, 2piece, DT - HDH). Over the years it sat in hot attics, and otherbamboo-unfriendly places, until I resurrected it last year. It haddeveloped a peculiar condition in which when stressed (bent) as whenplaying a fish, it stayed bent (but could be straightened by hand)! Ipresume that the glue used in gluing up the strips might havedeteriorated,but don't know quite what to do about it. I'm reluctant to take it apartand glue it up again, even if this could be done. Also, I don't know whathappened to Milwards - they were a family business, I think, at the timeManaged by Col. H.G.V. Milward, T.D., D.L. (ref. 1960 catalog), and theyhad a location in London. They used to take subtle pot-shots (not toounkind) at Hardy about rod construction methods, but their rods wereprobably of equal quality. At any rate, the rod I have is a bit of a club thereare much better tapers out there at present. The finish is good and thestripper and tip-top are agate, wraps yellow/blk jasper. But the guidesare small, and I'll have to find a silk line to refinish if I plan to useit (anyone out there with an old silk line that he'd part with?). Ifanyone has recent info about Milwards it would be of interest. Dave At 07:51 PM 9/11/00 +1000, petermckean wrote:Hi Hank I still don't know what a Millward is. You heard the story about the father and his son who were on a tour inAustralia, and the son saw a dog licking its bottom. "Why is that dog licking its bottom, father?", asked the boy. "Because it just bit a (here please fill in whatever minority groupdoesn'toffend you personally), son, and it's trying to get the taste out of itsmouth!" Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:00 AMSubject: Re: Literature Hey peter,Watch that grits stuff-I happen to like 'em better'n truffles- perhapsyou"transported" types had too much grits on the boat from England?:-)Regards,Hank. from Welafong@aol.com Mon Sep 11 17:25:32 2000 e8BMPVG03874 MEMBERS FRIENDSAT THE GATHERING.I WAS TO BRING WITH ME. SOME INFORMATION ON POLISHING PAPER BY THE 3M COMPANY. IT DID NOT ARRIVEUNTIL AFTER I GOT THERE .SO ANY ONE WISHING TO RECEIVE SOME SAMPLES.PLEASE LET ME KNOW .I HAVE A LIST THE PEOPLE WHO WHERE THERE. .I WILL SEND THEM OUTTO YOU .BY THE WAY THE 3M COMPANY HAS A WEB PAGE IT IS INFORMATIVE WWW.3M.COM .I HAVE NO TIES TO THE PEOPLE AT 3M I JUST LIKE THERE PRODUCTS.I WOULDLIKE TO TAKE THIS TIME TO THANK EVERY ONE OF YOU WHO HELPED ME AND MYSISTER PATTI HAD SUCH I WONDERFUL TIME I HOPE TO BE THERE NEXT YEARYOUR FREANDSRICHARD B WESTERFIELDPATTI E WESTERFIELD from bob@downandacross.com Mon Sep 11 18:03:55 2000 e8BN3sG04956 Subject: Re: CATKILLS ROD GATHERING MEMBERS --=====================_7611882==_.ALT This stuff would polish a properly cured polyurethane finish nicely.http://www.ez2order.com/3Mfinishingsystems/plasticrepair.htm At 06:25 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Welafong@aol.com wrote: FRIENDSAT THE GATHERING.I WAS TO BRING WITH ME. SOMEINFORMATION ON POLISHING PAPER BY THE 3M COMPANY. IT DID NOT ARRIVEUNTILAFTER I GOT THERE .SO ANY ONE WISHING TO RECEIVE SOME SAMPLES.PLEASE LET MEKNOW .I HAVE A LIST THE PEOPLE WHO WHERE THERE. .I WILL SEND THEMOUT TO YOU.BY THE WAY THE 3M COMPANY HAS A WEB PAGE IT IS INFORMATIVE WWW.3M.COM .IHAVE NO TIES TO THE PEOPLE AT 3M I JUST LIKE THERE PRODUCTS.I WOULDLIKE TOTAKE THIS TIME TO THANK EVERY ONE OF YOU WHO HELPED ME AND MYSISTER PATTIHAD SUCH I WONDERFUL TIME I HOPE TO BE THERE NEXT YEARYOUR FREANDSRICHARD B WESTERFIELDPATTI E WESTERFIELD Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_7611882==_.ALT This stuff would polish a properly cured polyurethane finish nicely.http://www.ez2order.com/3Mfinishingsystems/plasticrepair.htm At 06:25 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Welafong@aol.com wrote: AT THE GATHERING.I WAS TO BRING WITH ME. SOME INFORMATION ON POLISHING PAPER BY THE 3M COMPANY. IT DID NOT ARRIVEUNTIL AFTER I GOT THERE .SO ANY ONE WISHING TO RECEIVE SOME SAMPLES.PLEASE LETME KNOW .I HAVE A LIST THE PEOPLE WHO WHERE THERE. .I WILL SEND THEM OUTTOYOU WWW.3M.COM .I HAVE NO TIES TO THE PEOPLE AT 3M I JUST LIKE THERE PRODUCTS.I WOULDLIKETO SISTER PATTI HAD SUCH I WONDERFUL TIME I HOPE TO BE THERE NEXT YEAR YOUR FREANDS RICHARD B WESTERFIELD PATTI E WESTERFIELD Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_7611882==_.ALT-- from fiveside@net-gate.com Mon Sep 11 18:25:41 2000 e8BNPeG05727 TAA02858 for ; Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:24:34 Subject: Re: Wine Bottle Corks To the List,Sounds like some of you select your wines by the quality of the vintage. Iselect mine for the quality of the cork. It all depends on your priorities.BillBill,Do you think you might send along just one of those bottle corks... ofcourse, I would prefer to have one that is still under foil and stuck in theneck of a nice bottle of Robert Mondavi Cabernet! *S* Bob-----Original Message-----From: Bill Fink Date: Thursday, September 07, 2000 4:03 PMSubject: Wine Bottle Corks To the List,I've been using wine bottle corks and sliding skeleton rings for reelseats on experimental rods for years. Most of my rods are experimentalandnot always successful, but not because of the cork. It works just fine. AndI have a large supply of used bottle corks. Bill from cbogart@shentel.net Mon Sep 11 18:34:10 2000 e8BNY9G05984 ;Mon, 11 Sep 2000 23:34:01 +0000 "Agram7e13@aol.com" Subject: Re: Chris e8BNYAG05985 Everyone Can you help this gentleman find a butt cap for his rod - he hascontactedMike Sinclair at my first suggestion and Mike did not have the butt cap.Please respond to Giles directly if you can help him or have such a butt cap. Chris On Thu, 7 Sep 2000 23:15:09 EDT, Agram7e13@aol.com wrote: My fly rod is a Montague Tonkin Cane Split Bamboo Rod. The paper label onthe cloth case reads: Manufactured by UNION Hardware Company Torrington,CT. Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. Made in U.S.A. Also on the right side are some partial words. Hardened SteelSna---- Guides a--- Stainless Steelchrome Plated Stripper Guide and Hardened Steel Top.On the left side I can only read No. A5001 and No. 1 below it. The non-metal part behind the cork handle is slotted and threaded to hold the reelmeasures 11/16G* not measuring the slotted area which is 1/16G* deep. The endcap area measures 10/16G* in diameter and the depth for the cap is 5/16G*. The the screwdown sleeve that holds the reel is measures 12/16G* ID. Thereel fitted into the end cap up to 5/16" maybe a little less.The cap came off while fishing and was not noticed it because thescrewdown sleeve was on tight enough that the reel did not fall out of the recessed groove. I want to THANK YOU once more for this extra effort on my behalf in order me to use the rod again.Giles D'Orvilliers from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Sep 11 19:52:01 2000 e8C0pwG08001 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 08:51:46 +0800 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 08:51:43 +0800 Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia paul.blakley@ntlworld.com, cmj@post11.tele.dk,petermckean@netspace.net.au,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean , "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from canazon@mindspring.com Mon Sep 11 20:06:11 2000 e8C16BG08421 Subject: catskill gathering This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C01C33.ACEE92C0 all,i came up to the gathering curious, very nervous, unsure of myself, =and what to expect. eileen demarest found me upstairs and welcomed me =quite warmly, then brought me down to the pavilion and introduced me to =a few of you. she periodically checked in on me the first hour or so, =making sure i was comfortable and taking me around to meet one or =another members of the group. the knowledge imparted was incredible, but it was nothing when =compared to the energy level on those two days alongside the river. i =know how dennis and the Bait Fisherman missed their turnoff. i zoomed = thanks to you all for the sharing ( as eileen said in her email =today) and the caring. it sounds silly, but i feel like i've come home. mike c ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C01C33.ACEE92C0 all, unsure of myself, and what to expect. eileen demarest found me upstairs = welcomed me quite warmly, then brought me down to the pavilion and = to a few of you. she periodically checked in on me the first hour or so, = sure i was comfortable and taking me around to meet one or another = the group. it was nothing when compared to the energy level on those two days = = as eileen said in her email today) and the caring. it sounds silly, but = like i've come home. c ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C01C33.ACEE92C0-- from lblan@provide.net Mon Sep 11 20:25:48 2000 e8C1PlG08932 Subject: RE: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message----- paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean ,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Mon Sep 11 20:42:21 2000 e8C1gJG09422 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 12 Sep 2000 09:40:04 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: RE: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia I heard that Tony had a Guinness or two in Grayrock but what I think ourAmerican friends failed to understand is that he is almost teetotal byAussie standards. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message----- paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean ,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from TSmithwick@aol.com Mon Sep 11 20:49:36 2000 e8C1naG09724 Subject: The rod with many fathers Old French saying. " Success has many fathers; failure is always an orphan." As some of you know, I was undemocratically appointed to finish the Catskill Gathering rod. (I never got to vote anyway!) As some may not know, the rodis a tribute to Digger Degere and will be donated to the Catskill Museum. We managed to glue up a finished blank in one day, with at least 40 people working on it. It may not be a speed record, but I would bet we have moreman hours into one blank than anyone has ever managed before.I will keep you posted as I proceed. So far, things have gotten worse instead of better, as the sections have taken some sets as the Epon cured, and perhaps the cane took on a little moisture. I am going to wait a few more days before straightening, but it's nothing that can't be handled. I will probably mount the ferrules next weekend. from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 11 21:19:01 2000 e8C2J0G11045 19:39:44 PDT Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia tony, i've had it and i like it! the state side nedkelly's restraunt carries it. sadly though theywon't let me carry any home. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. Abrand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believeit'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" , paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean, "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches allto yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner,hiways you can drive on course the beer when youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your ownpublic profile at http://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 11 21:20:55 2000 e8C2KsG11176 19:41:37 PDT Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia i also like sheaf and stout. i think thats what youcall it and i use to drink my fair share of cooper'sreal ale. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. Abrand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believeit'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" , paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean, "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches allto yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner,hiways you can drive on course the beer when youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your ownpublic profile at http://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Mon Sep 11 22:17:08 2000 e8C3H6G12667 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Organization: vet Hello, Timothy Coopers Real ale does seem to be about the best of the brews, doesn't it? Ijust put another 20 litres down a couple of days ago. I have started todevelop a taste for Coopers Pale India Ale too. It's a fairly new additionto their range. I spike it with a sachet of extra hops. Tony is right about James Boag Premium, made here in my home town,Launceston. Great beer, though the brewery has just been taken over by SanMiguel, which is a pity. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia i also like sheaf and stout. i think thats what youcall it and i use to drink my fair share of cooper'sreal ale. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. Abrand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believeit'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" ,paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches allto yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner,hiways you can drive on course the beer when youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your ownpublic profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from mrmac@tcimet.net Mon Sep 11 22:23:27 2000 e8C3NQG12899 Subject: Custom hardwood handles Hi everybody - Thought I'd pass along an idea I saw on some..."non-bamboo" type rodsthis weekend while salmon fishing. A couple guys working the samestretch as I was had rods with handles that instead of cork, were turned from hardwoods and finished with polyurethane. When I helped the onefellow net a fish, it caught my eye first thing! One was walnut, theother was padauk, I think he said. They liked 'em, said that in coolerweather they are more comfortable because they will take warmth fromyour hand and hold it, where cork won't. I asked about being slipperywhen wet and they said that maybe a little at times, but nothing thatwas a problem. (I noted that he had no problem catching fish in therain, while all I got was wet!) Both were turned in reverse half-Wells,the Western type handle, and looked really quite nice. The woodcontinued as the up-locking reelseat as if it were all turned from onelong piece, but I didn't notice exactly how the reel foot pocket hadbeen addressed, so it may have been a two piece assembly. I hadn't seenany like that before, other than the fancy demo type jobbies on JeffWagner's site. The fellow told me the name of the rodmaker, a guy inFlint, Mi., but I'm so terrible bad with names, there's like no chance Icould pass it along tonight - which is shameful since the guy doesreally nice work and deserves some credit. Seems like with the cost ofgood cork getting so pricey, maybe this approach wouldn't be all bad,albeit somewhat non- traditional. Thought you might find if of interest, long winter ahead and all. mac from richjez@enteract.com Mon Sep 11 23:53:15 2000 e8C4rEG14906 Subject: Re: Literature --=====================_4788710==_.ALT Oh no, not another grits discussion on the list. Didn't we beat that dead corn plant to pulp a while ago? :-)Rich Jezioro At 07:46 AM 9/11/00, nobler wrote:That sounds like what some say about Haggish ! (grin) Being raised in the deep South, we had hominy, and hominy grits prettyoften. The only way I really liked grits, was the next day, they were sliced from a cold bread pan, and fried in the skillet ! No wonder life spans wereso short, in th early days ! GMA *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>-- =====================_4788710==_.ALT Oh no, not another grits discussion on the list. Didn't webeat that dead corn plant to pulp a while ago? :-)Rich Jezioro At 07:46 AM 9/11/00, nobler wrote:That sounds like what some say about Haggish!(grin) Being raised in the deep South, we had hominy, and hominy gritsprettyoften. The only way I really liked grits, was the next day, they weresliced from a cold bread pan, and fried in the skillet ! No wonder life spanswereso short, in th early days ! GMA *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_4788710==_.ALT-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 01:22:49 2000 e8C6MkG17175 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 14:22:40 +0800 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 14:22:39 +0800 Subject: RE: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia I did my best :-) Tony At 09:25 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Larry Blan wrote:Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:04 PM Cc: Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au; avyoung@iinet.net.au;paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean ,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Tue Sep 12 01:28:43 2000 e8C6SgG17378 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 08:28:38 +0200 "petermckean" , Subject: Sv: Was Literature, now grits This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C01C94.93591400 Actually, I never got around to make grits, so if someone has the =right reciepy...............:-) regards,carsten ))):> > = ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C01C94.93591400 Actually, I never got around to make = if someone has the right reciepy...............:-) regards,carsten<Oh no, not another grits discussion= list. Didn't we beat that dead corn plant to pulp a while ago? = Jezioro<At 07:46 AM 9/11/00, nobler wrote:That sounds like what some say about = (grin)Being raised in the deep South, we had hominy, and = grits prettyoften. The only way I really liked grits, was the = they were sliced from a cold bread pan, and fried in the skillet = = = = ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C01C94.93591400-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 01:48:46 2000 e8C6mhG17767 Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Thanks Ralph. That's something to try. Tony At 11:23 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Ralph MacKenzie wrote:Hi everybody - Thought I'd pass along an idea I saw on some..."non-bamboo" type rodsthis weekend while salmon fishing. A couple guys working the samestretch as I was had rods with handles that instead of cork, were turned from hardwoods and finished with polyurethane. When I helped the onefellow net a fish, it caught my eye first thing! One was walnut, theother was padauk, I think he said. They liked 'em, said that in coolerweather they are more comfortable because they will take warmth fromyour hand and hold it, where cork won't. I asked about being slipperywhen wet and they said that maybe a little at times, but nothing thatwas a problem. (I noted that he had no problem catching fish in therain, while all I got was wet!) Both were turned in reverse half-Wells,the Western type handle, and looked really quite nice. The woodcontinued as the up-locking reelseat as if it were all turned from onelong piece, but I didn't notice exactly how the reel foot pocket hadbeen addressed, so it may have been a two piece assembly. I hadn't seenany like that before, other than the fancy demo type jobbies on JeffWagner's site. The fellow told me the name of the rodmaker, a guy inFlint, Mi., but I'm so terrible bad with names, there's like no chance Icould pass it along tonight - which is shameful since the guy doesreally nice work and deserves some credit. Seems like with the cost ofgood cork getting so pricey, maybe this approach wouldn't be all bad,albeit somewhat non- traditional. Thought you might find if of interest, long winter ahead and all. mac /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 01:48:46 2000 e8C6mhG17768 Subject: Re: Literature , "'RODMAKERS'" At 11:43 PM 9/11/00 -0500, Rich Jezioro wrote: Oh no, not another grits discussion on thelist. Didn't we beat that dead corn plant to pulp a while ago? :-)Rich Jezioro At 07:46 AM 9/11/00, nobler wrote:That sounds like what some say about Haggish!(grin) Being raised in the deep South, we had hominy, and hominy gritsprettyoften. The only way I really liked grits, was the next day, they weresliced from a cold bread pan, and fried in the skillet ! No wonder life spanswereso short, in th early days ! GMA *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ sp; / bsp; /**********************************************************************=****/ AV Young Visit my web site at: the hub of a the use of the bsp; depend on the bsp; the hub that is void. advantage is had whatever is there; usefulness arises whatever is not. Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 01:48:49 2000 e8C6mkG17777 Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Coopers is very good. Even the comercial stuff. I believe you can start abrew from the dregs of a store bought bottle of it because it's basicalybrewed as you'd do it at home but in (most cases) to a larger scale. Tony At 07:41 PM 9/11/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:i also like sheaf and stout. i think thats what youcall it and i use to drink my fair share of cooper'sreal ale. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. Abrand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believeit'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" , paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean, "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches allto yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner,hiways you can drive on course the beer when youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your ownpublic profile at http://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 01:48:51 2000 e8C6mmG17778 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia San Miguel taking it over is why I think it'll be available all over theplace and not just Aust. It is a shame it's no longer with the originalowners but not as much so as if it's ever brewed anywhere else. All thattrout pee in the Esk river is what makes the flavour :-) Tony At 02:15 PM 9/12/00 +1000, petermckean wrote:Hello, Timothy Coopers Real ale does seem to be about the best of the brews, doesn't it? Ijust put another 20 litres down a couple of days ago. I have started todevelop a taste for Coopers Pale India Ale too. It's a fairly new additionto their range. I spike it with a sachet of extra hops. Tony is right about James Boag Premium, made here in my home town,Launceston. Great beer, though the brewery has just been taken over bySanMiguel, which is a pity. Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: "timothy troester" Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 12:41 PMSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia i also like sheaf and stout. i think thats what youcall it and i use to drink my fair share of cooper'sreal ale. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. Abrand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believeit'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" ,paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches allto yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner,hiways you can drive on course the beer when youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your ownpublic profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Tue Sep 12 04:55:10 2000 e8C9t8G20735 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Organization: vet Timothy There are a lot more good ones than bad ones. Maybe there are no bad ones.As I say, even the ones I brew myself are pretty good these days - a farcry from the rancid, acidic home brews of twenty years ago. Tell me about IBC root beer. I have wondered what it is ever since I startedto read Harry Middleton. Harry Middleton, I think, must have been anon-drinker; but he mentioned IBC root beer about every chapter. Is it analcoholic brew or non alcoholic? made where? All the best, Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia peter, i don't think we can get cooper's in thestates any more. i haven't seen it in a long time. ihave at times found a fosters in a green bottle (ithink) i thought was nice. state side i drink beer from the bell breweries in kalamazoo michigan and ilike anchor steam from california or liberty ale. geethere's alot of good ones isn't there? with the newlaws i drink alot of ibc rootbeer on the river. brooktrout, good beer, good cigars, good beer and goodbourbon....what a list of vices. timothy --- petermckean wrote:Hello, Timothy Coopers Real ale does seem to be about the best ofthe brews, doesn't it? Ijust put another 20 litres down a couple of daysago. I have started todevelop a taste for Coopers Pale India Ale too. It'sa fairly new additionto their range. I spike it with a sachet of extrahops. Tony is right about James Boag Premium, made here inmy home town,Launceston. Great beer, though the brewery has justbeen taken over by SanMiguel, which is a pity. Peter ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Sep 12 07:48:09 2000 e8CCm8G22720 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:44:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Sep 12 07:50:36 2000 e8CCoZG22876 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:47:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia The best I ever had was a home brew by a pal in Cessnock ! What I found soneat, was every area having their own brews. You had a whole new batch totry in every town ! I started in Sydney, down to Wologong, over to WaggaWagga, down to Adelaide, and then out to Perth ! What a great 2 weeks ! GMA from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue Sep 12 08:00:16 2000 e8CD0FG23170 0400 Subject: RE: Custom hardwood handles What a great idea. It would give me something to do with my lathe besidesturn ferrule stations. One question (well, two): did you get any sense ofwhat the wood handle does to the balance of the rod, being heavier thancork? And, since part of cork's appeal is its softness in the hand, did youget any sense that this was missed with the wood handle? And... well, athird question (we lawyers always say "I've just got one or two questions"and then go on for another half an hour): since a hardwood handle is morerigid than a cork handle, do you think using a wood handle would have thesame effect on the rod's action as a drastically swelled butt? (Of course,the handle could be mounted so that there's room for the cane to flex insidethe handle... hmmm...) -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:24 PM Subject: Custom hardwood handles Hi everybody - Thought I'd pass along an idea I saw on some..."non-bamboo" type rodsthis weekend while salmon fishing. A couple guys working the samestretch as I was had rods with handles that instead of cork, were turned from hardwoods and finished with polyurethane. When I helped the onefellow net a fish, it caught my eye first thing! One was walnut, theother was padauk, I think he said. They liked 'em, said that in coolerweather they are more comfortable because they will take warmth fromyour hand and hold it, where cork won't. I asked about being slipperywhen wet and they said that maybe a little at times, but nothing thatwas a problem. (I noted that he had no problem catching fish in therain, while all I got was wet!) Both were turned in reverse half-Wells,the Western type handle, and looked really quite nice. The woodcontinued as the up-locking reelseat as if it were all turned from onelong piece, but I didn't notice exactly how the reel foot pocket hadbeen addressed, so it may have been a two piece assembly. I hadn't seenany like that before, other than the fancy demo type jobbies on JeffWagner's site. The fellow told me the name of the rodmaker, a guy inFlint, Mi., but I'm so terrible bad with names, there's like no chance Icould pass it along tonight - which is shameful since the guy doesreally nice work and deserves some credit. Seems like with the cost ofgood cork getting so pricey, maybe this approach wouldn't be all bad,albeit somewhat non- traditional. Thought you might find if of interest, long winter ahead and all. mac from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue Sep 12 08:17:49 2000 e8CDHnG24069 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Is this a Beer list or a rodmakers list? from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Sep 12 08:29:10 2000 [24.201.245.36] (may be forged)) e8CDT9G24535 VL-MS-MR001.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: Was Bamboo for Russia, now is grits, beer, anything except rodbuilding Rod building is certainly not a dull craft, what with the variety oftechniques, gadgets, tapers, etc. Is it necessary to always post a replyabout beer making, grits, or just snappy comebacks to the list? I know manyof us are fond of the social aspect of this list but perhaps we couldsimply send our non-rodmaking replies directly to the person for whom it isintended. Also, it seems strange that this list contains fairly strict guidelinesregarding commercial posts yet allows the threads to wander tonon-rodmaking issues without any intervention. Keep in mind that everythingwe post will end up in the Archives and it is a real drag to have to siftthrough pages of snappy comebacks and discussions of all things except rodmaking when searching for something useful. Richard from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Sep 12 08:41:36 2000 e8CDfZG25059 06:41:32 PDT Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia maybe it'll be distributed more over here before theytake the trout pee out of it. timothy --- Tony Young wrote:San Miguel taking it over is why I think it'll beavailable all over theplace and not just Aust. It is a shame it's nolonger with the originalowners but not as much so as if it's ever brewedanywhere else. All thattrout pee in the Esk river is what makes the flavour:-) ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from mrmac@tcimet.net Tue Sep 12 11:25:43 2000 e8CGPgG01283 JAA28368; Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Ok, and as we engineers always respond, "sure - I'll have answers for you in 'acouple weeks'..." but conveniently forget to say " from when"! ;-) Well,maybesooner in this case. Since he had what appeared to be a 9', 8wt gr***ite rod, I don't think theweight was much of an issue, and perhaps even helped the big reel provide anicebalance to a big rod. In hindsight (improving all the time) I wish I had askedto try it for a couple minutes. He did not seem to miss cork for any reason.True high end cork probably isn't all *that* soft, anyway, is it? Re: swelled butt - another note I received alluded to the high stress point atthe top of the handle (and that you could buy these handles premade fromCabelas- no financial interest, etc), which got me thinking that if the rod wereflexing into the handle, like a para, then maybe there would be a problem, butif the taper included a swelled butt anyway, it's hard to see how you would beaffecting the stress all that much in an area that was already pretty beefy.Also, I rebuilt an old rod a couple years ago, and its handle was solid woodwith just a sheet cork wrap. The bamboo only entered the handle maybe 3inchesor so. I have since gotten the impression that this approach was not all thatuncommon early on. Does anyone know if rod breakage at the top of the gripwasactually a frequent problem with that type construction? It would also seemtoaddress the "softness of the cork" issue, since the cork was only somethinglikemaybe 1/8" thick - not too much cushion there. And, more food for thought you, was for me, even if you didn't do a wholehandle, you could do some pretty nifty things for the winding check, toincludeinlays, etc. NOT exactly traditional, to be sure, but could be pretty spiffywith a little creativity, it seems to me. FYI and FWIW and all that. mac Seth Steinzor wrote: What a great idea. It would give me something to do with my lathe besidesturn ferrule stations. One question (well, two): did you get any sense ofwhat the wood handle does to the balance of the rod, being heavier thancork? And, since part of cork's appeal is its softness in the hand, did youget any sense that this was missed with the wood handle? And... well, athird question (we lawyers always say "I've just got one or two questions"and then go on for another half an hour): since a hardwood handle is morerigid than a cork handle, do you think using a wood handle would have thesame effect on the rod's action as a drastically swelled butt? (Of course,the handle could be mounted so that there's room for the cane to flexinsidethe handle... hmmm...) -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:24 PM Subject: Custom hardwood handles Hi everybody - Thought I'd pass along an idea I saw on some..."non-bamboo" type rodsthis weekend while salmon fishing. A couple guys working the samestretch as I was had rods with handles that instead of cork, were turned from hardwoods and finished with polyurethane. When I helped the onefellow net a fish, it caught my eye first thing! One was walnut, theother was padauk, I think he said. They liked 'em, said that in coolerweather they are more comfortable because they will take warmth fromyour hand and hold it, where cork won't. I asked about being slipperywhen wet and they said that maybe a little at times, but nothing thatwas a problem. (I noted that he had no problem catching fish in therain, while all I got was wet!) Both were turned in reverse half-Wells,the Western type handle, and looked really quite nice. The woodcontinued as the up-locking reelseat as if it were all turned from onelong piece, but I didn't notice exactly how the reel foot pocket hadbeen addressed, so it may have been a two piece assembly. I hadn't seenany like that before, other than the fancy demo type jobbies on JeffWagner's site. The fellow told me the name of the rodmaker, a guy inFlint, Mi., but I'm so terrible bad with names, there's like no chance Icould pass it along tonight - which is shameful since the guy doesreally nice work and deserves some credit. Seems like with the cost ofgood cork getting so pricey, maybe this approach wouldn't be all bad,albeit somewhat non- traditional. Thought you might find if of interest, long winter ahead and all. mac from vladmar@angara.ru Tue Sep 12 11:57:53 2000 e8CGvjG02856 ME-0197614) +0900 Subject: Grayling type="multipart/alternative"; This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C01D25.DA56F020 ------=_NextPart_001_0030_01C01D25.DA56F020 Grayling are my favourite fish so i slightly improve your picture.Best FishesVLADimir Markov from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Sep 12 13:11:15 2000 e8CIBFG06598 10:51:13 PDT Subject: guide spacing THE LIST, would someone please share with me theoriginal guide spacing and guide sizes for thedickerson 6611 and the paul young midge? thankyou! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from bkatz@popmail.colum.edu Tue Sep 12 14:24:13 2000 e8CJOCG09537 Version 5.5.2650.21) Organization: Columbia College Chicago Subject: Straightness question creator="4D4F5353" I'm a new maker finishing my first rod. My question is--how straightdoes it have to be? I know that dead on straight is desirable, but is ita functional issue or an esthetic one? I have read most of the archiveon straightening rods, so I have a pretty good idea of the frustrationsinvolved.Brian Katz from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Tue Sep 12 15:02:25 2000 e8CK2PG11284 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 21:02:21 +0100 Subject: Re: Straightness question To quote Cattanach;'straight is straight ' straight but the fish and the users never seem to mind .....Paul Brian Katz wrote: I'm a new maker finishing my first rod. My question is--how straightdoes it have to be? I know that dead on straight is desirable, but is ita functional issue or an esthetic one? I have read most of the archiveon straightening rods, so I have a pretty good idea of the frustrationsinvolved.Brian Katz from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Sep 12 16:10:17 2000 e8CLAHG14442 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Straightness question marty wrote: It's best to get it as straight as possible right after gluing andbinding while the glue is wet. Heat straighten what's left. In myopinion it is purely esthetic. Most people (I'm not one of them) afterpicking up a rod for the first time eyeball the thing to see howstraight it is. So straightening is pretty much for them. Marty I'm a new maker finishing my first rod. My question is--how straightdoes it have to be? I know that dead on straight is desirable, but is ita functional issue or an esthetic one? I have read most of the archiveon straightening rods, so I have a pretty good idea of the frustrationsinvolved.Brian Katz from dellc@nextdim.com Tue Sep 12 16:17:51 2000 e8CLHnG14901 Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles The handles made by a friend of mine are hollowed out and filled with solidcork so I would think there would be some flexing.Dell ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Ok, and as we engineers always respond, "sure - I'll have answers for youin 'acouple weeks'..." but conveniently forget to say " from when"! ;-) Well,maybesooner in this case. Since he had what appeared to be a 9', 8wt gr***ite rod, I don't think theweight was much of an issue, and perhaps even helped the big reel providea nicebalance to a big rod. In hindsight (improving all the time) I wish I hadaskedto try it for a couple minutes. He did not seem to miss cork for anyreason.True high end cork probably isn't all *that* soft, anyway, is it? Re: swelled butt - another note I received alluded to the high stresspoint atthe top of the handle (and that you could buy these handles premade fromCabelas- no financial interest, etc), which got me thinking that if the rod wereflexing into the handle, like a para, then maybe there would be a problem,butif the taper included a swelled butt anyway, it's hard to see how youwould beaffecting the stress all that much in an area that was already prettybeefy.Also, I rebuilt an old rod a couple years ago, and its handle was solidwoodwith just a sheet cork wrap. The bamboo only entered the handle maybe 3inchesor so. I have since gotten the impression that this approach was not allthatuncommon early on. Does anyone know if rod breakage at the top of thegrip wasactually a frequent problem with that type construction? It would alsoseem toaddress the "softness of the cork" issue, since the cork was onlysomething likemaybe 1/8" thick - not too much cushion there. And, more food for thought you, was for me, even if you didn't do a wholehandle, you could do some pretty nifty things for the winding check, toincludeinlays, etc. NOT exactly traditional, to be sure, but could be prettyspiffywith a little creativity, it seems to me. FYI and FWIW and all that. mac Seth Steinzor wrote: What a great idea. It would give me something to do with my lathebesidesturn ferrule stations. One question (well, two): did you get any senseofwhat the wood handle does to the balance of the rod, being heavier thancork? And, since part of cork's appeal is its softness in the hand, didyouget any sense that this was missed with the wood handle? And... well, athird question (we lawyers always say "I've just got one or twoquestions"and then go on for another half an hour): since a hardwood handle ismorerigid than a cork handle, do you think using a wood handle would havethesame effect on the rod's action as a drastically swelled butt? (Ofcourse,the handle could be mounted so that there's room for the cane to flexinsidethe handle... hmmm...) -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 11:24 PM Subject: Custom hardwood handles Hi everybody - Thought I'd pass along an idea I saw on some..."non-bamboo" type rodsthis weekend while salmon fishing. A couple guys working the samestretch as I was had rods with handles that instead of cork, wereturned from hardwoods and finished with polyurethane. When I helped the onefellow net a fish, it caught my eye first thing! One was walnut, theother was padauk, I think he said. They liked 'em, said that incoolerweather they are more comfortable because they will take warmthfromyour hand and hold it, where cork won't. I asked about being slipperywhen wet and they said that maybe a little at times, but nothing thatwas a problem. (I noted that he had no problem catching fish in therain, while all I got was wet!) Both were turned in reversehalf-Wells,the Western type handle, and looked really quite nice. The woodcontinued as the up-locking reelseat as if it were all turned from onelong piece, but I didn't notice exactly how the reel foot pocket hadbeen addressed, so it may have been a two piece assembly. I hadn'tseenany like that before, other than the fancy demo type jobbies on JeffWagner's site. The fellow told me the name of the rodmaker, a guy inFlint, Mi., but I'm so terrible bad with names, there's like no chanceIcould pass it along tonight - which is shameful since the guy doesreally nice work and deserves some credit. Seems like with the costofgood cork getting so pricey, maybe this approach wouldn't be all bad,albeit somewhat non- traditional. Thought you might find if of interest, long winter ahead and all. mac from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Sep 12 16:35:29 2000 e8CLZSG15698 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 16:32:55 -0500 Subject: Fw: PHY MIdge guide spacing, and details Read down here, and the measurements for guide spacing are given. Thesearetaken from my original Midge, built by PHY in 1954. GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: PHY MIdge guide spacing, and details I posted the dimensions on the guide spacing to the list last night. Let meknow if you didn't get it. GMA----- Original Message -----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 2:53 AMSubject: Re: PHY MIdge guide spacing, and details George,Would like the info and photos if you don't mind. Thanks,Bob-----Original Message-----From: nobler Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 8:29 PMSubject: Re: PHY MIdge guide spacing, and details I hope I'm sending this info out to the list, without the attachments,which I hope I've sent to all that asked. I never dreamed I would get somany requests, so didn't handle it very well. Anyone who missed the photos, please let me know, and I'll get them offto you. GMAGeorge Aldrich----- Original Message -----From: nobler Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 7:48 PMSubject: Fw: Lightweight Rod ----- Original Message -----From: nobler Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 11:37 AMSubject: Re: Lightweight Rod Here is the guide spacing on the PHY Midge. Starting at the tip: 5", 6-3/8" 6-13/16", 6-7/16", 7-7/8", 5-1/2", toend of male ferrule. Male portion that fits inside the female is .875". from end of female ferrule: 5", 9-1/2", 16-1/2" to front of grip,3-15/16" to end of grip, 3-1/8" from end of grip, to end of rod/reel seat.Total length of the entire female ferrule is 2". I have taken 3 photos of this rod, which are attached. If yoursoftware will allow you to blow them up, you will see the "Little Ike", Iused from Paul's catalog, of 1954. If you have any problems, just let me know., and I sure hope thishelps. GMA This comes out to be 6'-3", almost to the hair.----- Original Message ----- From: Chase R Adams Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 8:24 PMSubject: Re: Lightweight Rod Thanks you've been a great fellow to talk with or at least write to.Just one more question if you don't mind. what is your apporoximateguide spaceing on this rod? You've helped me out emensly as I amjustgetting into this myself.C.R. Adams from johnsabina@home.com Tue Sep 12 17:52:53 2000 e8CMqrG18318 Tue, 12 Sep 2000 15:52:45 -0700 Subject: Re: Straightness question Brian: I recently finished my first rod as well. It was glued with Nyatek epoxyand rolled extensively on a flat table. The rod was then air dried for 12hours, rebound with fresh cord and heat set for 3 hours at 235 degrees F.(This is Wayne Cattanach's recommended technique.) It was not until aftersanding that I discovered several slight kinks. I tried my heat gun toapply a little heat for straightening. I applied more heat than I reallydared on one tip with no real improvement. What I did then on the advise ofa friend is pick a different flat to install the guides. Instead ofworrying about the spline, I sighted down each section (mine was a 3 pc rodwith an extra tip) and picked the flat that put the bend up or opposite theweight of the line. How did it work? Just great. The rod casts fine andhad no trouble landing 16-18 inch cutthroat. Pretty good for a 7 1/2 foot 4wt! My advice is don't worry about it and make your next rod straighter.Obviously the time to address the condition was back when the epoxy wasstill wet. At least I will know what to look for next time. JJS-----Original Message----- Subject: Straightness question I'm a new maker finishing my first rod. My question is--how straightdoes it have to be? I know that dead on straight is desirable, but is ita functional issue or an esthetic one? I have read most of the archiveon straightening rods, so I have a pretty good idea of the frustrationsinvolved.Brian Katz from saweiss@flash.net Tue Sep 12 18:18:56 2000 e8CNItG19158 Subject: Re: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Beer and ethnic foods... not very interesting Is this a Beer list or a rodmakers list? from bob@downandacross.com Tue Sep 12 20:12:49 2000 e8D1CmG21963 Subject: swelled butts and inserts --=====================_10505761==_.ALT I was wondering if any listmembers have tried adding wooden spacersbetween the strips of their swelled butt rods. I am currently reading the Campbell book, and the rods with these inserts sure look stunning. How would one go about trying this for the first time?I have looked at Jeff Wagner's site and his presentation rod pictures a hundred times and can't really grasp the best way to begin. Wow. Jeff, if you're out there, you are amazingly talented!Obviously, I am not expecting anyone's trade secrets here. Just a bit of how to.Thanks,Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_10505761==_.ALT I was wondering if any listmembers have tried adding wooden currently reading the Campbell book, and the rods with these inserts surelook stunning. How would one go about trying this for the first time? I have looked at Jeff Wagner's site and his presentation rodpictures a hundred times and can't really grasp the best way to begin.Wow. Jeff, if you're out there, you are amazingly talented!Obviously, I am not expecting anyone's trade secrets here. Just abit of how to.Thanks, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_10505761==_.ALT-- from LECLAIR123@aol.com Tue Sep 12 20:38:03 2000 e8D1c3G22562 Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles I've built three cane rods with a solid wood handle. I turned thegrip and reel seat in one piece, using burled Cherry. I cut the butt section of the rod and installed it into the wooden grip aroundthree to four inches deep. I mortised the reel seat section and usedone nickel silver slide band and a raised nickel silver pocket capon the end. Two of these were made for Bill Ballan. He was verypleased with them and hasn't called me with any problems. I madethem for him about four or five years ago. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from mstevens@ptdprolog.net Tue Sep 12 23:24:08 2000 e8D4O7G26677 0000 Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Regarding hardwood grips on flyrods, Heddon made the Deluxe Model 60 withahand checkered Walnut grip starting in the mid 30s. This rod was not a bigseller but did remain in the catalog for several years. I have one in 8 1/2ft. There are 3 checkered diamond shaped panels on the forward part of thegrip. It feels nice in the hand but I have never fished it or cast it whenwet. It is a classic looking rod. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307C Effort PA 18330 610 681 5670 http://www.mikestevens.com http://www.OldTackle.com mstevens@ptdprolog.net mstevens@oldtackle.com Collector of Heddon Bamboo rodsJ.A. Coxe baitcasting reelsHeddon River Runt Spooks Maker of Fine Sights for Antique Single Shot TargetRifles from Canerods@aol.com Tue Sep 12 23:25:31 2000 e8D4PVG26777 Subject: Re: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia Tony, I thought you say --> "Fosters ...Austrailian for Budweiser" Don Burns I did my best :-) Tony At 09:25 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Larry Blan wrote:Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:04 PM Cc: Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au; avyoung@iinet.net.au;paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 12 23:36:51 2000 e8D4anG27169 Wed, 13 Sep 2000 12:36:36 +0800 Subject: Re: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia That's actually not too bad at all Don. :-)) Tony At 12:25 AM 9/13/00 -0400, Canerods@aol.com wrote:Tony, I thought you say --> "Fosters ...Austrailian for Budweiser" Don Burns I did my best :-) Tony At 09:25 PM 9/11/00 -0400, Larry Blan wrote:Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:04 PM Cc: Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au; avyoung@iinet.net.au;paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Wed Sep 13 04:52:59 2000 e8D9quG03076 Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Organization: vet Mike How is the checkering done? Is it (the grip) all-over checkered, like agunstock, or is there a lot of smooth wood. Are the checkered panels done10, or 12, or 18, or 24 lines to the inch, or what? Is the checkering cutdeep and sharp, with crisp pointed diamond checkering, or is it more openspaced with flat topped diamonds? It just occurs to me that a gunstock-type pattern might be a bit hard on thehand after a bit of casting. Also that it might not be the most durablefinish considering the amount of hand movement involved. I mean, I have tohave the checkering freshened up reasonably often on my Grant, as muchbecause of the build up of gunge as anything, but also because the littlediamonds tend to flatten out after a bit. Any chance of a photo? Would be really fascinating if possible. Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Custom hardwood handles Regarding hardwood grips on flyrods, Heddon made the Deluxe Model 60withahand checkered Walnut grip starting in the mid 30s. This rod was not a bigseller but did remain in the catalog for several years. I have one in 81/2ft. There are 3 checkered diamond shaped panels on the forward part ofthegrip. It feels nice in the hand but I have never fished it or cast it whenwet. It is a classic looking rod. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 http://www.mikestevens.com http://www.OldTackle.com mstevens@ptdprolog.net mstevens@oldtackle.com Collector of Heddon Bamboo rodsJ.A. Coxe baitcasting reelsHeddon River Runt Spooks Maker of Fine Sights for Antique Single Shot TargetRifles from jfreeman@cyberport.com Wed Sep 13 08:25:52 2000 e8DDPoG06673 Subject: Re: Grayling type="multipart/alternative" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C01D54.5F86C4E0 ------=_NextPart_001_0048_01C01D54.5F86C4E0 That's some BIGGGG Grayling. What river? Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 3:56 PMSubject: Grayling Grayling are my favourite fish so i slightly improve your picture.Best FishesVLADimir Markov> from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Sep 13 08:58:582000 e8DDwvG07810 Subject: Re: Grayling Can we all start removing the attachments from replies? This was the thirdtime we've received this picture. BTW, PLEASE don't take this as apersonal rebuff, it has been happening with many attachments of late. Thanks.Best regards,Gary H. At 07:29 AM 9/13/00 -0600, Jim & Sallyann Freeman wrote:Jesus, That's some BIGGGG Grayling. What river? Jim ----- from richjez@enteract.com Wed Sep 13 13:52:40 2000 e8DIqdG19285 Subject: RE: Rodmakers Libations - Was: Bamboo for Russia --=====================_718508==_.ALT I seem to remember that Tony had considerable help. He was not alone at Spikes. Any guilty parties want to raise their hands, if they remember? ;- )Rich At 08:25 PM 9/11/00, Larry Blan wrote:Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. I understand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 9:04 PM Cc: Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au; avyoung@iinet.net.au;paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called James Boag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be available inthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote:Is it Guiness? From: "Roberts, Michael" paul.blakley@ntlworld.comCC: cmj@post11.tele.dk, petermckean ,"'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for RussiaDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 09:46:58 +0800 Hey Tony, don't forget to mention the beer!Mike Paul, I mean Bruce,no pain, no gain. Think of the beer, beaches all to yourself, beer, steak,fishing, the beer, crayfish and crabs for dinner, hiways you can drive on youget here. _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail athttp://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile athttp://profiles.msn.com. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>--=====================_718508==_.ALT I seem to remember that Tony had considerable help. Hewasnot alone at Spikes. Any guilty parties want to raise their hands, ifthey remember? ;- )Rich At 08:25 PM 9/11/00, Larry Blan wrote:Ah, this is probably a good thing, Tony. Iunderstand that there is still ashortage of Guinness in Grayrock! Larry Blan -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Tony Young paul.blakley@ntlworld.com; cmj@post11.tele.dk;petermckean@netspace.net.au; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Sv: Bamboo for Russia Yes and no. There's plenty of anything you like. A brand called JamesBoag from Tasmania is IMHO *the* beer to drink. I believe it'll be availableinthe US soon. Tony At 06:16 PM 9/11/00 +0000, Robert Clarke wrote: beer, steak, drive on when you _ http://www.hotmail.com. at /**************************************************************************/= AV Young Visit my web site at: spokes will converge hubof a wheel; theuse of the cart depend on the part the hubthat is void. advantage is had whatever is there; usefulness arises whatever is not. TeChing /**************************************************************************/= *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_718508==_.ALT-- from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Wed Sep 13 16:12:05 2000 e8DLC4G25258 +0000 Subject: Hardy Jock Scot Taper The Hardy Jock Scot bait casting taper continues despite all my effortsto elude me .My latest efforts involved two letters to the factory ......The first one Hardy answered with a polite......'get lost 'kind ofresponse.My second letter was not even answered,and this was for me to measurethe taper direct from their museum rod.Somebody somewhere out there must have this taper ??????I am advisedthat Len Codella has one for sale at the present ( summer2000 catalogue ),does anyone have his e-mail address for me to write abegging note ??Tight lines all........Paul from wlwalter@bellatlantic.net Wed Sep 13 16:13:59 2000 e8DLDxG25402 Subject: 2 Strip Quads Got to cast Tom Smithwick's 2 strip Quad at the Catskill Gathering lastweekend. Real sweet rod (but I'm sure that's old news to most). Got meto wondering how you would get the non-enamel sides a consistent colorwith the sides that you stripped the enamel from. Would it require somekind of dye or could you just bake the two cane strips to about the samecolor? Bill Walters from mevans@acxiom.com Wed Sep 13 16:41:56 2000 e8DLftG26553 crichton.acxiom.com for;Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:47:46 -0500 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: Some Really Basic Varnishing Questions How much sanding do you do between coats? For example, do you like to sand the first couple of coats almost completely down so that it works mostly as filler? How much do you sand between the later coats? I've got three coats on a blank right now. The tip is looking a bit round. I'd like to sand it some to keep the hex visible but don't want to over doit.I'd appreciate hearing what some others do. Leo Eck likes to wait 6 weeks after the final coat before fishing. What doyou think? Thanks much,Mark from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Sep 13 16:57:55 2000 e8DLvsG27282 Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:59:37 -0500 Subject: Re: Some Really Basic Varnishing Questions I sand with 1000, and 1200 wet, after each coat has cured well. It dependson the curing temp's. as to how soon you can use a new rod. This summer icould dry at 140 deg. F., as it was over 100, when applying varnish ! It'sall relative. GMA from dannyt@frisurf.no Wed Sep 13 17:06:12 2000 e8DM6AG27611 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: 2 Strip Quads To all, I've seen many post reg. 2 strip quads, but non have described howthey makes them.....can anybody help me out.....? TIAdanny From: Bill Walters Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 17:14:38 -0400 Subject: 2 Strip Quads Got to cast Tom Smithwick's 2 strip Quad at the Catskill Gathering lastweekend. Real sweet rod (but I'm sure that's old news to most). Got meto wondering how you would get the non-enamel sides a consistent colorwith the sides that you stripped the enamel from. Would it require somekind of dye or could you just bake the two cane strips to about the samecolor? Bill Walters from TSmithwick@aol.com Wed Sep 13 17:25:15 2000 e8DMPFG28510 Subject: Re: 2 Strip Quads In a message dated 9/13/0 9:15:01 PM, wlwalter@bellatlantic.net writes: Bill - The rod you cast does have a pretty good color match between top and sides. The sides have more variation in power fiber diameter, however, and this shows up more if the cane is cooked dark. Go with a lighter heat treat and the variance will be less obvious. My guess is that the power fibers and pith would absorb a stain differently and make the situation worse. IMHO, the 2 strip rod should be considered a working rod or an experimental rod. I don't personally try to make them presentation quality. from dpeaston@wzrd.com Wed Sep 13 17:38:54 2000 e8DMcrG29397 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: 2 Strip Quads Perhaps ammonia toning might work. -Doug At 06:25 PM 9/13/00 EDT, TSmithwick@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 9/13/0 9:15:01 PM, wlwalter@bellatlantic.net writes: to wondering how you would get the non-enamel sides a consistent color >> Bill - The rod you cast does have a pretty good color match between topand sides. The sides have more variation in power fiber diameter, however, and this shows up more if the cane is cooked dark. Go with a lighter heat treat and the variance will be less obvious. My guess is that the power fibers and pith would absorb a stain differently and make the situation worse. IMHO, the 2 strip rod should be considered a working rod or an experimental rod. I don't personally try to make them presentation quality. Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Sep 13 18:33:18 2000 e8DNXHG01841 Wed, 13 Sep 2000 16:33:12 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Some Really Basic Varnishing Questions Mark,Three days after dipping, I basically sand away 90% of the first coat. Itserves only as a filler. The second coat is block-sanded with 1000g wet/dry (moistened inmineralspirits) till it is completely flat. I sand it quite a bit, but don't knowhow to describe exactly how much. I would guess that I remove 60-70% ofthesecond coat. If I accidentally "break through" the second coat, it getssandedalmost completely away as well. I dip and sand the first two coats before wrapping the guides. Then I putthree coats of 90/10 thinned spar on the wraps, being careful not to allowthespar to spill over onto the cane. If the second coat flattens out nearly perfectly, then the third coat isthe final coat for me. Maybe one more on butt sections. I wait three full days between dipping and starting the sanding on sparvarnish. You can work with poly considerably more quickly. Six weeks before fishing would be great. I'm not that patient, nor do Ihave the luxury or waiting that long if someone is waiting on a rod. I try towait two weeks, and keep the rod at about 90* in a drying cabinet. mevans - Mark Evans wrote: How much sanding do you do between coats? For example, do youlike to sand the first couple of coats almost completely down so thatit works mostly as filler? How much do you sand between the later coats?I've got three coats on a blank right now. The tip is looking a bit round.I'd like to sand it some to keep the hex visible but don't want to over doit.I'd appreciate hearing what some others do.Leo Eck likes to wait 6 weeks after the final coat before fishing. What doyou think? from channer1@rmi.net Wed Sep 13 21:18:48 2000 e8E2IlG06691 Subject: Re: Some Really Basic Varnishing Questions Mark;Varnish techniques, as with most every other aspect of rodmaking,differ from person to person, i don't think any two rodmakers do things thesame way. For instance, I wrap my guides first, put 3 coats ofMan-O-War on them, then dip the rod twice, sanding no more than justflat between coats, and I only wait 3 days before sanding with 600 grit.I wait another 3 days after the second coat then tough up any blemisheswith 2000 grit and Finese-It II rubbing compound and Perfect-It IImachine polish. All of which works well for me and I am satisfied withthe finish I get and my customers must be too, I've had no complaintsyet. I am sure there are lots of guys reading this and thinking tothemselves "boy, that lazy s.o.b. sure doesn't put much effort into hisfinish", and they are probably right, but, it works for me. Play with itand find out what works for you.John mevans - Mark Evans wrote: How much sanding do you do between coats? For example, do youlike to sand the first couple of coats almost completely down so thatit works mostly as filler? How much do you sand between the later coats? I've got three coats on a blank right now. The tip is looking a bit round. I'd like to sand it some to keep the hex visible but don't want to over doit.I'd appreciate hearing what some others do. Leo Eck likes to wait 6 weeks after the final coat before fishing. What doyou think? Thanks much,Mark from esavage@parkerduryee.com Wed Sep 13 21:32:43 2000 e8E2WfG07186 Subject: FW: Off Topic tying vise This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_000_01C01DF4.4A18F830 Pat: Regarding rotary vises, I'd like to recommend the old Universal rotary vise.I got one about 40 years ago when, as a young teenager, my Dad took me toasportsman show in New York City. We walked out with a fly tying kit made byUniversal Fly Tying Company. The vise it contained was one of the firsttrue rotary vises - it has a large outer rim allowing for gradual turning ofthe vise and a small inner spindle that allows you to turn the spindle, andthereby the vise, between two fingers very rapidly (wonderful for putting onchenille, tinsel and other body materials). I haven't seen one of thesevises in any store or catalog for years, and I am not even sure thatUniversal Fly Tying Company is still in existence. However, if you shouldhappen to stumble on one of these vises, I'd recommend you pick one up,particularly as they were really quite inexpensive - especially compared tosome of the $100+ prices I see for other rotary vises. As luck would have it, just last week, as I was browsing eBay, I saw anauction for any old fly tying vise (the seller didn't know exactly what hehad for sale), which just so happened to be one of the old Universal rotaryvises. As you might suspect, I bid on it and won at the whopping price of$10.50. I've tried to attach to this message a copy of the picture from theeBay auction so that you'll know what to look for. If that picture doesn'topen or work, you can do a search on eBay under closed items or closedauctions - the item number was Item #425014268 - in order to see whatthatvise looks like. And before anyone gets excited about any commercial use of this forum,please note that, even though I mentioned an eBay auction item, (a) I wasthe Buyer, not the SELLER, and (b) the auction has already closed. Ed Savage [esavage@parkerduryee.com] -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Off Topic tying vise Rotaries are great. I have a Bergstrom rotary that I absolutely love. Unfortunately, Gary passed away earlier this year, so these vises won't be produced anymore. Oregon flyfishing lost a great man when he passed, and I lost someone I considered to be a great role model. Robert Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com From: Dennis Haftel CC: "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Off Topic tying viseDate: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 13:05:45 -0700 Pat, I don't know much about the Anvil, but I have a Renzetti Travellerrotary and love it. It's great for wrapping hackle, tinsel, etc., andmaking epoxy flies. I would never go back to a standard vise again. Dennis Pat Tumblin wrote: Sorry for the off topic post, but my knowledge of fly tying equipment ingeneral and vises in particular is limited. I'm looking at a vise made Apex. Has any list member had any experience with it? Any commentsonrotary vises, pro or con, are welcomed.Thanks in advance for all your help. Pat> from mep@mint.net Thu Sep 14 04:29:03 2000 e8E9T2G15231 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 05:28:57 -0400 Subject: Re: Some Really Basic Varnishing Questions I thin the heck out of my varnish, apply it with a brush and sand everso lightly between coats. If your tip is looking round then the varnishis to thick and going on to heavy. Mike from petermckean@netspace.net.au Thu Sep 14 05:10:43 2000 e8EAAeG15813 Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Organization: vet Hello, Danny Because I like Jim Payne tapers, I feel that I have to blue my nickelsilver, and to flame my cane. And yes, I use photo fixer. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer and Ilford Hardener. The directions for the processI got from REC, who were very helpful about the whole thing - as they seemto be about everything! They recommended the Kodak equivalent, but I am aveterinarian and use Ilford stuff for X-ray development, so, reasoning thatfixer is fixer, used that. I vary their process, and this is what I do. I put into a ceramic bowl (oldcereal bowl, actually, with a picture of a rabbit on it) enough of the RapidFixer to cover the metal to be blued, just at room temperature; then I add avery little bit of the hardener. REC recommend 1 part to 4 parts of fixer,but I use much less than that. If I start with say 200ml of fixer, I addabout 10ml of hardener, and when you put in the hardener, you will noticethat the solution just goes a little bit yellowish where the hardener goesin, and a little bit sort of "snotty". Stir it in. I use an Icy Pole stick.The yellow colour will dissipate as you mix it in, and the snottiness willgo away, almost. If it stays yellow, or stays too snotty, you have put intoo much hardener, so chuck it out and start again. You don't seem (this isVERY unscientific) to be able to get back to where you want to be by addingmore fixer. Or at least, I don't. The stuff is cheap, so easier to start again. I clean the nickel silver thoroughly. I used use diethyl ether until thelist members warned me that I was very likely to blow myself up that way, soI now use ethyl alcohol. I guess you could use metho, but (a) I hate thesmell (b) it tastes bloody awful :-) , & (c) I have a lot of the ethyl stuffaround the clinic. I plug up all the holes with BLUE TAC, and the male bits I mask with tape.Then I just put it in the solution and move it around gently until it allgoes as black as I want, at which stage I take it out and rinse itthoroughly under running water, and dry it. Establishment of colour takes aminute or two. The REC instructions suggest leaving it in for some hours,but I can't see that it makes any difference, except possibly for the worse. If you have the stuff clean, put it in, and take it out when it looks right,it all seems to be dead simple. If you stuff around with it, like taking itout and putting it back in, you tend to get odd results - not bad, but oddsilvery colours which tend to be a bit etched into the surface, and theworst thing about them is that you can't replicate them on demand. How durable is it? It's not bad. On a previous post, I said that I alwaysvarnished it, but on reflection that is not right, as I never varnish thereel seat fixtures; and they probably get the hardest wear. The Force that Ifish more than any other rod has been done now for about 18 months, and Ihave not had to touch it up. You can do limited touch up, by the way,especially on the non-varnished bits, by just brushing on a bit of themixture, and rinsing it off when it looks right. Why don't I use the famous Payne formula? Because nobody will tell you whatgoes into the bloody stuff, and it's reputedly too toxic to ship, is why! SoI use what I can get. I did try Birchwood Casey's brass blue, but found theresults no better than with the fixer, and I have litres of that lyingaround the place already. Best of luck, and if I can do anything more to help, just yell. Loved yourgrayling!! I have never seen one in the flesh. Lucky you. Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Photofixer for bluing Peter, Tony, told me You have great results with photo fixer, bluing Your NShardware.... What kind of fixer are You using, a two part solution I guess, is it KodakorIlford?I've seen most recommend to give the parts a layer of varnish to protectit fromwear...Is the bluing soft? I was wondering if I skip the varnish, the bluing willwearof on thewelt etc. after use, and give the parts some kind of patina...but offcourse ifits too soft,the patina will appear too quickly...................TIA, danny from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Thu Sep 14 08:35:29 2000 e8EDZTG19673 e8EDZHB01226 Subject: Hardy Sunbeam Parts Would the fellow that posted looking for replacement parts for his reelplease send me an email if you still need them. Regards, BobFly Supplies from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu Sep 14 08:51:23 2000 e8EDpMG20250 GAA07837 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: urac glue does anybody heat cure their rods after gluing with urac and if so whattemperatures and time?I just glued up a 8' garrison and it takes a set if I look at it. I heat treated itto a nice cinnamon color so I don't think it's doing that because of tempering. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from jczimny@dol.net Thu Sep 14 09:34:39 2000 e8EEYcG21946 Organization: J. C. Zimny Rod Company Subject: Re: urac glue Patrick,I have cured UF's. Usually a whole chart of cure times come with themanufactruer's pamplet on the glue. A half hour at 125 F is sufficient.However, I don't like the results. It tends to put bends in the rod. If you canwait four days at 70 F, I'd do it. Also, never let curing UF's get below 60F(safe)during the curing process.John Z. "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: does anybody heat cure their rods after gluing with urac and if so whattemperatures and time?I just glued up a 8' garrison and it takes a set if I look at it. I heat treatedit to a nice cinnamon color so I don't think it's doing that because oftempering. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Sep 14 09:36:38 2000 e8EEabG22096 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Anyone else get this spam? --------------47E932CED041CA009A62C0E8 Did anyone else get this? Please reply off-list, Thanks,Harry Hello Harry Boyd ,I am an new bamboo rod builder from China.There are a lot of Tonkin bamboo in my hometown and many traditionalworkers are making bamboo goods by hand.We hope can build rod blanks USD175,we can building all taper of you want.We hope you find itinteresting, and look forward to hearing from you.Best Regards, --------------47E932CED041CA009A62C0E8 Thanks,Harry Hello Harry Boyd ,I am an new bamboo rod builder from China. traditionalworkers are making bamboo goods by hand.We hope can build rod blanks foryou ,one rod blanks(2-pic,2-tip)price areUSD175,we can building all taper of you want.We hope you find it interesting,and look forward to hearing from you.Best Regards, --------------47E932CED041CA009A62C0E8-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Sep 14 09:44:53 2000 e8EEiqG22499 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Electric motor troubles Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I am blissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turning some reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then just buzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor would turn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw the circuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised my shin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start, 1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from billh@inmind.com Thu Sep 14 10:01:33 2000 e8EF1WG23673 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 10:53:45 -0400 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles Harry, I'm afraid I don't know much about electric motors, either, but I do know you should never have your lights on the same circuit as your power tools. A lot of things can happen in the dark with a table saw or a lathe still spinning! Sounds like your motor is blown. bill hoy At 10:43 AM 9/14/00, Harry Boyd wrote:Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I am blissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turning some reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then just buzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor would turn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw the circuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised my shin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start, 1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from leroyt@involved.com Thu Sep 14 10:02:11 2000 e8EF2AG23750 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61049U4500L450S0V35) "Danny Twang" Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Hi List, If I remember from the many times of doing film in the darkroom andmixing my own fixers from scratch the purpose for putting hardener in themix, is to harden the emulsion, which is a water soluble gelatin.Leroy.....-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Hello, Danny Because I like Jim Payne tapers, I feel that I have to blue my nickelsilver, and to flame my cane. And yes, I use photo fixer. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer and Ilford Hardener. The directions for theprocessI got from REC, who were very helpful about the whole thing - as they seemto be about everything! They recommended the Kodak equivalent, but I am aveterinarian and use Ilford stuff for X-ray development, so, reasoning thatfixer is fixer, used that. I vary their process, and this is what I do. I put into a ceramic bowl (oldcereal bowl, actually, with a picture of a rabbit on it) enough of theRapidFixer to cover the metal to be blued, just at room temperature; then I addavery little bit of the hardener. REC recommend 1 part to 4 parts of fixer,but I use much less than that. If I start with say 200ml of fixer, I addabout 10ml of hardener, and when you put in the hardener, you will noticethat the solution just goes a little bit yellowish where the hardener goesin, and a little bit sort of "snotty". Stir it in. I use an Icy Pole stick.The yellow colour will dissipate as you mix it in, and the snottiness willgo away, almost. If it stays yellow, or stays too snotty, you have put intoo much hardener, so chuck it out and start again. You don't seem (this isVERY unscientific) to be able to get back to where you want to be by addingmore fixer. Or at least, I don't. The stuff is cheap, so easier to start again. I clean the nickel silver thoroughly. I used use diethyl ether until thelist members warned me that I was very likely to blow myself up that way,soI now use ethyl alcohol. I guess you could use metho, but (a) I hate thesmell (b) it tastes bloody awful :-) , & (c) I have a lot of the ethylstuffaround the clinic. I plug up all the holes with BLUE TAC, and the male bits I mask with tape.Then I just put it in the solution and move it around gently until it allgoes as black as I want, at which stage I take it out and rinse itthoroughly under running water, and dry it. Establishment of colour takes aminute or two. The REC instructions suggest leaving it in for some hours,but I can't see that it makes any difference, except possibly for theworse. If you have the stuff clean, put it in, and take it out when it looksright,it all seems to be dead simple. If you stuff around with it, like taking itout and putting it back in, you tend to get odd results - not bad, but oddsilvery colours which tend to be a bit etched into the surface, and theworst thing about them is that you can't replicate them on demand. How durable is it? It's not bad. On a previous post, I said that I alwaysvarnished it, but on reflection that is not right, as I never varnish thereel seat fixtures; and they probably get the hardest wear. The Force thatIfish more than any other rod has been done now for about 18 months, and Ihave not had to touch it up. You can do limited touch up, by the way,especially on the non-varnished bits, by just brushing on a bit of themixture, and rinsing it off when it looks right. Why don't I use the famous Payne formula? Because nobody will tell youwhatgoes into the bloody stuff, and it's reputedly too toxic to ship, is why!SoI use what I can get. I did try Birchwood Casey's brass blue, but found theresults no better than with the fixer, and I have litres of that lyingaround the place already. Best of luck, and if I can do anything more to help, just yell. Loved yourgrayling!! I have never seen one in the flesh. Lucky you. Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: "Danny Twang" Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 8:57 PMSubject: Photofixer for bluing Peter, Tony, told me You have great results with photo fixer, bluing Your NShardware.... What kind of fixer are You using, a two part solution I guess, is itKodakorIlford?I've seen most recommend to give the parts a layer of varnish to protectit fromwear...Is the bluing soft? I was wondering if I skip the varnish, the bluingwillwearof on thewelt etc. after use, and give the parts some kind of patina...but offcourse ifits too soft,the patina will appear too quickly...................TIA, danny from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Sep 14 10:19:04 2000 e8EFJ4G24548 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Electric motor troubles I'm no electrical genius, but I'd agree with the blown motor assessment. Ifa reasonably priced replacement motor is not available, you can often havethe armature rewound, but REPAIRING ANYTHING is becoming a lost art in thisdisposable era. Good luck Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Electric motor troubles Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I am blissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turning some reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then just buzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor would turn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw the circuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised my shin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start, 1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Thu Sep 14 10:33:11 2000 e8EFX6G25156 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles Harry, The motor on my table saw does this every couple years...itspins slowly and weakly with no load but trips the breakerafter a few seconds. The first time I took it to a motorrepair shop, expecting the worst. While I waited they took itapart and blew it clean with an air hose. That fixed it. NowI can do it myself. I'd try another good internal cleaning before I chucked it.Concentrate on electrical contact areas.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot- warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Sep 14 10:56:33 2000 e8EFuWG26184 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 14 Sep 2000 08:33:58 -0700 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles e8EFuWG26185 Harry, Occasionally I have to take the cap off the electric motor on my bandsaw andclean the armature?? with an abrasive. I'll flip the switch, the motor willbuzz with no movement of the belt and I know it's time to take it apart andclean it. I don't know if this is related to what's going on with your lathe. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu Harry Boyd 09/14/00 07:43AM >>>Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I am blissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turning some reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then just buzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor would turn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw the circuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised my shin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start, 1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Thu Sep 14 10:59:37 2000 e8EFxbG26461 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 08:59:25 -0700 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 15:59:25 GMT Subject: Electric Motor FILETIME=[C1401860:01C01E64] With the buzzing sound it is usually a capacitor, some motors have two some one. They are very inexpensive,AND they have only two wires so replacement is easy. The caps are available in a wide range of 'sizes' so take one or both off. Take them with you to a decent home/hardware store. An appliance repair store will have them also.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from caneman@clnk.com Thu Sep 14 11:06:47 2000 e8EG6lG26981 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Anyone else get this spam? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00D9_01C01E3B.84AE67E0 Harry... Nope, my letter from them was completely different, since I had =communicated with them before... beleive it or not, 3 months ago, they =couldn't figure out how to straighten a glued up blank and asked for my =help (and now they're in the rod business LOL)... here is the letter I =received from them... Hello Bob.We hope can build rod blanks for you ,one rod =blanks(2-pic,2- tip)price are USD175, we befores.Best Regards,Zhu You Xin. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Harry Boyd Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:30 AMSubject: Anyone else get this spam? Hello Harry Boyd ,I am an new bamboo rod builder from China.There are a lot of Tonkin bamboo in my hometown and many traditionalworkers are making bamboo goods by hand.We hope can build rod blanks for=you ,one rod blanks(2-pic,2-tip)price areUSD175,we can building all taper of you want.We hope you find it =interesting, and look forward to hearing from you.Best Regards, ------=_NextPart_000_00D9_01C01E3B.84AE67E0 Harry... Nope, my letter fromthem = completely different, since I had communicated with them before... = not, 3 months ago, they couldn't figure out how to straighten a glued up = and asked for my help (and now they're in the rod business LOL)... here = letter I received from them... Bob. We hope can build rod blanks for you ,one rod blanks(2-pic,2-tip)price = USD175, we building all taper of you want. Zhu You Xin. Basically samething = you note... Bob -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Thursday, September 14, 2000 9:30 AMSubject:Anyone = Hello Harry Boyd ,I am an new bamboo rod builder from China. traditionalworkers are making bamboo goods by hand.We hope can build rod blanks for=you ,one rod blanks(2-pic,2-tip)price areUSD175,we can building all taper of you want.We hope you find it =interesting, and look forward to hearing from you.Best Regards, ------=_NextPart_000_00D9_01C01E3B.84AE67E0-- from ECKTOR_66@YAHOO.COM Thu Sep 14 11:06:59 2000 e8EG6vG26993 2000 09:06:53 PDT Subject: Taper Request and Thanks A friend has asked me to build a 7' 7wt rod for"pitching deerhair frogs to bass"... Does anyone havea taper that might work? I found a couple tapers for rods at 8' - 9' on theRodmakers taper arhive that I suppose I could playwith and alter (shorten) via hexrod. But I wouldprefer a taper that someone has fished and canrecommend. One a separate note: I want extend a note of thanksto the list for all of the rodbuilding advice thatI've gathered over the past few years, mostly fromlurking. It took me 3.5 years (!) to get my first rodcompleted... (MANY extenuating circumstances). Ichristened the rod in New Mexico last month and it wasa wonderful experience! Thanks especially to Wayne Thramer for getting me started down the right path. Thanks again,Eric Koehler ecktor_66@yahoo.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Sep 14 11:39:43 2000 e8EGdhG28848 09:39:39 PDT Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles yes i would say unless you can access brushes orunless for some reason the current to you motor hasbeen deminished your motor needs to be replaced. sometimes dousing it out with non conductive contactcontact cleaner will get a little more life out of itbut i doubt it'll be totally up to snuff again. timothy --- Bill Hoy wrote:Harry, I'm afraid I don't know much about electric motors,either, but I do know you should never have your lights on the samecircuit as your power tools. A lot of things can happen in the dark with a tablesaw or a lathe still spinning! Sounds like your motor is blown. bill hoy At 10:43 AM 9/14/00, Harry Boyd wrote:Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I amblissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turningsome reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then justbuzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor wouldturn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw thecircuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised myshin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start,1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from lwk4b@virginia.edu Thu Sep 14 12:05:28 2000 e8EH5NG29769 14 Sep 2000 13:05 EDT MMDF-Warning: Parse error in original version of preceding line atmail.virginia.edu Subject: Re: Electric motor troublesDate: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 13:03:46 -0700 Harry, It sounds like you may have a bad capacitor on that motor.Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: Electric motor troubles Friends,When it comes to anything electric, I am blissfully ignorant. Themotor on my lathe quit in the middle of turning some reel seat fillerslast night. It worked fine one minute, then just buzzed the next. WhenI removed the belt to the lathe, the motor would turn about 30 rpm, andstill buzzed like crazy. Eventually it threw the circuit breaker. Man,it was dark in the shop about midnight! Bruised my shin trying to findmy flashlight to get the circuit breaker back on.The motor is a 1/2 horsepower capacitor start, 1725 rpm outfit.I cleaned all the dust and crap out of it. Any other suggestions? Thanks,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Thu Sep 14 13:24:40 2000 e8EIOeG03456 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles Bill, Don't replace the motor, get it rebuilt. It could be a bad capacitor or a bad winding. Look for electric motor repair shops in your yellow pages. BUT.... Don't replace it, unless it's a total basket case - most likely that it is a better motor than 99% of the new motors on the market and can takean overload much better than a new one. GET IT FIXED. Don Burns from dannyt@frisurf.no Thu Sep 14 16:40:10 2000 e8ELe9G12595 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Did a test on some brass and NS today, with Kodak T-Max fixer. T-Max filmis a pain in the a** to fix properly with "ordinary" fixer, so Kodak cameup with this improved stuff. I guess its a stronger solution. Brass did not get any bluing at all, NS did take a nice color.It seem to be thin and durable. I can't see the need for hardener......I even did some polishing with 0000 steelwool, and I had to polish orquite a while to weaken the color...........regards danny From: leroyt@involved.com (leroy teeple) Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 08:07:35 -0700 Cc: "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Hi List, If I remember from the many times of doing film in the darkroomandmixing my own fixers from scratch the purpose for putting hardener in themix, is to harden the emulsion, which is a water soluble gelatin.Leroy.....-----Original Message----- From: petermckean Cc: 'RODMAKERS' Date: Thursday, September 14, 2000 3:11 AMSubject: Re: Photofixer for bluing from horsesho@ptd.net Thu Sep 14 18:13:34 2000 e8ENDXG15535 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: urac glue Hi Patrick, I think your rod picked up excess moisture between the timeof heat treating and gluing. What I do is heat treat for 20 min. at 350when the preliminary planing is done and then heat treat again for 3min. just before gluing. Seems to solve the problem. MartyPS. Try setting your rod near a heating duct for a couple monthsduring the winter months. Of course this depends on if you live in anorthern climate. does anybody heat cure their rods after gluing with urac and if so whattemperatures and time?I just glued up a 8' garrison and it takes a set if I look at it. I heat treatedit to a nice cinnamon color so I don't think it's doing that because oftempering. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from horsesho@ptd.net Thu Sep 14 18:19:30 2000 e8ENJTG15764 0000 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Taper Request and Thanks marty wrote: I recall seeing in the Planing form news letter about a Cross Sylph(spelling?)that was a 7' #7 line. Check out the archives. Marty A friend has asked me to build a 7' 7wt rod for"pitching deerhair frogs to bass"... Does anyone havea taper that might work? I found a couple tapers for rods at 8' - 9' on theRodmakers taper arhive that I suppose I could playwith and alter (shorten) via hexrod. But I wouldprefer a taper that someone has fished and canrecommend. One a separate note: I want extend a note of thanksto the list for all of the rodbuilding advice thatI've gathered over the past few years, mostly fromlurking. It took me 3.5 years (!) to get my first rodcompleted... (MANY extenuating circumstances). Ichristened the rod in New Mexico last month and it wasa wonderful experience! Thanks especially to Wayne Thramer for getting me started down the right path. Thanks again,Eric Koehler ecktor_66@yahoo.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from horsesho@ptd.net Thu Sep 14 18:37:31 2000 e8ENbVG16339 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: heddon#20 Hi Timothy, Here is the taper. Heddon #20 Bill Stanley Favorite Featherweight71/2' #5 03/4 ferrule deduct .003 for varnishTip Butt00 .080 .21405 .090 .21810 .107 .23615 .119 .25020 .130 .26025 .145 .27430 .160 .28735 .176 .390 Swelled Butt40 .184 ? under grip45 .196 ? " " 6" grip/ 31/2" DL seatGuide spacing : Tip 4 3/4"10"15 3/4"21 5/8"28"35"42 7/8"Butt6 1/2"16 1/2" stripperAlong with Granger, Heddon has the finest casting production rodsaround. Marty DeSapio has your friend ever mic'd his featherweight? timothyactually this isn't my rod. i'm doing this foranother fellow and i haven't laid hands on it yet. iwill let you know. thanks! timothy --- marty wrote:Hi Timothy, I will get it miked ASAP. Does yourshave the ferrule sizemarked? Mine is a 0 3/4 ferrule. My friend has onethat is a 0 1/2ferrule which for a 71/2' featherweight is veryrare. Marty yep! that's it. have you ever mic'd it? if youhavei would appretiate it if you would share it withme.timothy --- marty wrote:Hi Timothy, I have a 2pc. 71/2'er #20. Is thatwhatyours is? Marty does any one have the taper for a heddon #207'6"?i need to replace a tip and the varnish on the ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access fromanywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from bob@downandacross.com Thu Sep 14 18:46:01 2000 e8ENk0G16719 Subject: Re: Taper Request and Thanks --=====================_15759035==_.ALT http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/tapers/cross/crossylph.html is the7wt 7' Cross.Also there is the taper of my Cross 1500 (Sylph?) but it is a 7'6" and a 5/6. I can throw a bug a pretty good distance with it though. Several Cross tapers appear at:http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/Tapers/hexrod-archive.html#crossThese are great tapers that are worth checking out. I wish I owned a few more of Mr. Jordan's fine tapers/rods, although I don't appreciate the aesthetics of the impregnated Orvis models as much as the excellent South Bend Cross rods.Best regards,Bob At 07:10 PM 9/14/00 -0400, marty wrote:marty wrote: I recall seeing in the Planing form news letter about a Cross Sylph(spelling?)that was a 7' #7 line. Check out the archives. Marty Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_15759035==_.ALT http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/tapers/cross/crossylph.htmlis the 7wt 7' Cross.Also there is the taper of my Cross 1500 (Sylph?) but it is a 7'6" and a5/6. I can throw a bug a pretty good distance with it though. Several Crosstapers appear at:http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/Tapers/hexrod-archive.html#crossThese are great tapers that are worth checking out. I wish I owned a few aesthetics of the impregnated Orvis models as much as the excellent SouthBend Cross rods. Best regards,Bob At 07:10 PM 9/14/00 -0400, marty wrote:marty wrote: Marty Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Split Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_15759035==_.ALT-- from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 14 19:28:31 2000 e8F0SUG18170 +0000 Subject: Bob Sholiton Bob, If you have email, please contact me off list. Thanks, Dennis from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Thu Sep 14 20:45:20 2000 e8F1jHG20061 Mail VirusWall NT); Fri, 15 Sep 2000 09:43:45 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Electric motor troubles Hi Harry,They don't call me "The Prince of Darkness" for nothing. Nuttingout electrical problems is not a field I shine in, however, I have had ahell of a lot of electric motors repaired in my time.I used to work for a supplier of sheep shearing equipment and weregularly got the electric drive motors in for repair. Descriptions of whatwas wrong with them ranged from, "It ran really slow, then stoppedaltogether" to "there was a big bang and a huge flash came out of it and allthe wiring between the shed and the front gate got fried".Sometimes it was just a little thing like a dud capacitor and atother times the motor had to be totally rewound/rebuilt. Either way, it wasa damned sight cheaper than buying a new motor and customers got to keepsomething that was built when things were built to last. Some of thesemotors were over forty years old and had shorn literally millions of sheep.Find someone who sells electric motors and ask them who does theirrepair work. These people only deal with reliable repairers for obviousreasons and you'll end up back at your bench turning rod components in notime. Hey, who turned the lights off? Mike from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Sep 14 21:21:51 2000 e8F2LmG20861 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:18:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles I can highly recommend the Dayton motors from W.W. Grainger Co. I havetwo,bought in 1965, and both are still running fine after continuous duty ! GMA from bjust@bellsouth.net Thu Sep 14 21:23:53 2000 e8F2NqG20994 Subject: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly I have a 7x10 lathe with a 3-jaw chuck that I have had for about ayear. A while back I took the jaws out of the chuck and now when I putthem back one jaw will not meet the other two properly when tightenedall the way(so that my work is centered). I don't have much experienceon a lathe have tried reassembling them many times with the same resultIs there a trick to this that I don't know about? Thanks! Brian Justiss from martinj@aa.net Thu Sep 14 21:48:21 2000 e8F2mLG21727 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 19:43:30 -0700 Subject: RE: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly Yes. The location may be numbered. If it is, reinstall in the correctlocation. If not, remove and set all three in the slots and apply somepressure to all three at the same time while rotating the chuck handle. Youdon't have to have all three of them engaged very far to see if they aregoing to meat in the center. If wrong, try moving the jaws to a differentlocation until they become engaged properly. If you play around with it abit it will start to make sense and pretty soon you will have them togetherproperly. Don't worry, it "will" happen. You haven't screwed anything up.You just have to get them in the right slot at the right time. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly I have a 7x10 lathe with a 3-jaw chuck that I have had for about ayear. A while back I took the jaws out of the chuck and now when I putthem back one jaw will not meet the other two properly when tightenedall the way(so that my work is centered). I don't have much experienceon a lathe have tried reassembling them many times with the same resultIs there a trick to this that I don't know about? Thanks! Brian Justiss from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Sep 14 21:50:48 2000 e8F2olG21908 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles Michael, and many others!! Thanks for all the help. I bet I received 35 replies to this simple cry forwisdom. Took the motor to the repair shop today, and they said it wouldtake 2or 3 days before they could get to it. It's cotton pickin' season around here,and every cotton gin within 150 miles is going full force. Since most of theirstuff is done with electric motors, all the repairmen are busy.Still in all, not bad. Three days for them to rebuild a motor. Even if Iordered one from Grainger I doubt it would get here that fast.Thanks again for all the help! Harry "Roberts, Michael" wrote: Find someone who sells electric motors and ask them who does theirrepair work. These people only deal with reliable repairers for obviousreasons and you'll end up back at your bench turning rod components in notime. from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Sep 14 22:01:04 2000 e8F313G22238 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:58:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Taper Request and Thanks Yes, it would have to be a pretty stiff 7 footer, to handle a #7 buggingline, and I'd guess you'd still be limited to shorter distances, and smallerhair bugs. GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Sep 14 22:09:16 2000 e8F39FG22566 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 22:06:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Taper Request and Thanks I have a Cross Forsythe, and another, but both are longer. They are veryfine examples though ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Sep 14 22:21:56 2000 e8F3LtG23095 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 22:18:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Electric motor troubles Yes, if it's a U.S. made motor, rebuild, If it's from China, get a good one! Many machine tools are now being supplied with U.S. motors, changed outafter they get here ! Too many trouble calls under warranty it seems ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Sep 14 22:27:52 2000 e8F3RpG23372 Thu, 14 Sep 2000 22:22:05 -0500 Subject: Re: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly Most lathes have numbered jaws, as in 1, 2, 3. You must engage the scroll onthe back plate in the #1 jaw first, and so on, as you put the jaws back inthe assembly. Look closely for a number on each jaw. There has to be aproper sequence ! GMA from timklein@uswest.net Fri Sep 15 00:44:49 2000 e8F5imG26972 (63.225.127.188) Subject: Re: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly Brian - I had a Harbor Freight 7x10 for a while and my jaws had little dotson them to use to place them correctly. Put the jaw with a single dot in andturn the jaw clamp until the jaw just starts to engage. Rotate the chuck tothe next slot and place the one with two dots, etc... ----- Original Message ----- Subject: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly I have a 7x10 lathe with a 3-jaw chuck that I have had for about ayear. A while back I took the jaws out of the chuck and now when I putthem back one jaw will not meet the other two properly when tightenedall the way(so that my work is centered). I don't have much experienceon a lathe have tried reassembling them many times with the same resultIs there a trick to this that I don't know about? Thanks! Brian Justiss from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Sep 15 01:26:22 2000 e8F6QKG27732 Fri, 15 Sep 2000 14:26:12 +0800 Fri, 15 Sep 2000 14:25:36 +0800 Subject: Re: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly As quite a few people have writen you haven't done any damage.If you remove all three jaws and turn the chuck while watching the slotsthe jaws live in you'll see a scroll turn. Work out which way it's turning.If all the jaws are numbered or have dots indicating their sequence fromhere it's just a case of placing #1 and turn the chuck until it engages,then #2 then #3. This way you'll know none have missed a turn.If the jaws aren't numbered #1 may have a serial number or some otherindication and doing the above will at least give you an idea of a pattern. If none are numbered just keep trying till you get it. Do try to ensure nojaw is out of sync though through missing the engagement point on a turnotherwise you'll get a bit confused trying to see a pattern. Tony At 09:26 PM 9/14/00 -0700, Brian Justiss wrote:I have a 7x10 lathe with a 3-jaw chuck that I have had for about ayear. A while back I took the jaws out of the chuck and now when I putthem back one jaw will not meet the other two properly when tightenedall the way(so that my work is centered). I don't have much experienceon a lathe have tried reassembling them many times with the same resultIs there a trick to this that I don't know about? Thanks! Brian Justiss /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Sep 15 05:32:43 2000 e8FAWfG00744 Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Organization: vet Any kind of fluffy animal is fine, as long as it's scarred by the countlessabrasions made by your childrens' spoons as they grow up; this one wascustom-scarred by my daughter, a lieutenant in the Royal AustralianTransport Corps, just back from a tour of duty in East Timor. And you'reright, it's Beatrix Potter. Pretty battered and daggy, but Beatrixnevertheless! "Cheesy" is good. "Mucopurulent" is perhaps more accurate. "Yellow"isaccurate; "primrose" more poetic. Popsicle (sic) and Fudgesicle (sic) sticks probably work just fine, and areno doubt well thought of by the mullet-and -fibreglass fraternity, but thereis something in the balance, the heft, and in fact, the general ambiencesurrounding the Icy Pole stick that seems to cry out to the maker of bamboorods. If I can be of further assistance, just say the word. Peter PS please tell me what's in the Payne formula...... petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing I put into a ceramic bowl (oldcereal bowl, actually, with a picture of a rabbit on it) How important is it to have a rabbit picture? What kind of rabbit? Willanything of Beatrix Potter's work? I'd prefer B'rer Rabbit, myself. when you put in the hardener, you will noticethat the solution just goes a little bit yellowish where the hardenergoesin, and a little bit sort of "snotty". Could you be more specific about "snotty"? Is it perhaps a cheesy yellowexudate, or . . .? Stir it in. I use an Icy Pole stick. Will a Popcycle, or a Fudgecycle stick work, rather than an Icy Polestick?Is this critical? Why don't I use the famous Payne formula? Because nobody will tell youwhatgoes into the bloody stuff, and it's reputedly too toxic to ship, iswhy! I've been told what ingredients are in the Payne formula, but not theamounts. I should think that if one were serious about finding out, asimplegas chromatograph would reveal all. The reason the stuff can't be shippedisbecause over here the DOT regulates all things in interstate commerce,andthe bluing formula is considered hazardous material, even in such smallquantities, which is just another example of the blunderous bullshit ofgovernmental excess that is so prevalent here. In order for someone to beable to ship such material, they have to undergo a ridiculous process,training, etc., and most importantly, pony up the money: I think, $1,500,but it may be more. That is a little steep just to be able to sell acoupledozen bottles a year, at $25.00 per bottle. The shipping alone would run$20.00 in addition to that. As you may ascertain: It isn't worth it. Sothisis why Russ at Goldenwitch can't ship the stuff. I came up with aformulation of various chemicals that when properly applied to metal,glass,fiberglass, etc., nothing will stick to them. This means the glue won'tstick to the binding machine, or to a coat-out board. Russ was going tocarry the stuff for me, but we had the same problem. The biggest lie intheworld: Hi! I'm from the government, and I'm here to help. Martin-Darrell from TSmithwick@aol.com Fri Sep 15 07:11:22 2000 e8FCBMG02025 Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing In a message dated 9/15/0 10:33:49 AM, petermckean@netspace.net.auwrites: Peter - I don't entirely recall, but it is a witches brew of really nasty stuff like concentrated hydrochloric acid and ferric chloride. I used to work in a chem lab, and decided I didn't want to mess with mixing it unless I had a vented hood for protection.I bought some once from Dave LeClair. It does work well, but residual fumes from even a tightly capped container will rust any tool nearby, and you do need to be careful with it. Stick to the fixing solution. It's a lot nicer to be around.My method with the fixing solution is to clean the metal with ultra fine steel wool, and apply solution "A" with a cotton swab. Sometimes that will do it. If it doesn't, use another swab to apply solution "B" over solution "A". Never contaminate one bottle with stuff from the other. I usually get a dark blue mottled with bronze, like color case hardening on a gun. I like it a lot. from lblove@omniglobal.net Fri Sep 15 08:56:29 2000 e8FDuSG04978 Subject: Re: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly Hi Brian, Look at the back of the jaws, one of the jaws will have a thread which starts near the bottom(side that contacts the work). This is jaw number one, the jaw with the farthestthread from the tip is number three. The one that is left is number two. Locate slot number one(if not marked use which ever one you want). Insert the chuck key and rotatethe key and the scroll, clean out the scroll with air if you haveit, if not use a brush. Now rotate the chuck key clockwiseuntil the leading tip of the scroll just goes past the first slot.Insert the jaw into the slot, and with down pressure on thejaw rotate the chuck key counterclockwise. You will feel a good click as the jaw drops into the scroll. Now rotate the key clockwise until the scroll goes past the second slot(which will be the slot that is counterclockwise from the first slot). Now insert jaw number two into the slot and rotate the key counterclockwise. Again you should feel a click as the jaw drops into the scroll. Then advance to the third jaw and repeat the process. I have always done the past, back, and drop method for jawinsertion. After you do it a couple times it becomes second nature and just something that you do. After you get them in correctly check the run out with a dowel pin or something youknow is round. If you are not happy with the runout mark the number one jaw and slot. Then move the number one slot one slot either side of where it was and try again.This way you might be able to find a better runout and then mark the number one slot. just my opinionHope this helpsBrad ----- Original Message ----- Subject: 3-jaw lathe chuck assembly I have a 7x10 lathe with a 3-jaw chuck that I have had for about ayear. A while back I took the jaws out of the chuck and now when I putthem back one jaw will not meet the other two properly when tightenedall the way(so that my work is centered). I don't have much experienceon a lathe have tried reassembling them many times with the same resultIs there a trick to this that I don't know about? Thanks! Brian Justiss from utzerath@execpc.com Fri Sep 15 09:09:25 2000 e8FE9OG05447 Fri, 15 Sep 2000 09:09:21 -0500 e8FE9KD01616; "Jojo DeLancier" Subject: Re: Photofixer for bluing Peter, Did you miss my e-mail about the formula being in Kirkfield's book? BTW if this is not the Payne formula, would someone in the list-group pleasecorrect me. I don't want to get into one the toxicity controversies. ButRuss shipped me some last month for a little extra handling charge (5 or 10bucks, I don't remember exactly). It works fine on NS and yellow brass anddoesn't seem prone to contamination, should last a long time. Jim U PS please tell me what's in the Payne formula...... from DNHayashida@aol.com Fri Sep 15 09:47:31 2000 e8FElUG06944 2000 10:47:20 -0400 Subject: Frakenstien rod I just took my latest rod out of the string this morning, and as I looked itover, what the rod was occured to me - a conglomeration of all of thedifferent rod making experiments I've been working on. It's a 5 foot, onepiece, parabolic, swelled butt.Can't wait to test cast this one!Darryl from DNHayashida@aol.com Fri Sep 15 10:07:02 2000 e8FF71G08002 2000 11:06:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Frakenstien rod If I shorten this taper down just a bit, say to 4' 9", I can do it on my MorganMill and be able to make the taper in penta and quad..... from jshane@nature.snr.uvm.edu Fri Sep 15 15:18:01 2000 e8FKI1G19823 Subject: Intro, and a question Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in the Forestry dept. atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since it is obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Im looking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in the lighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most is an early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, for a 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybe first), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience" is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 from wlwalter@bellatlantic.net Fri Sep 15 15:54:26 2000 e8FKsPG21432 Subject: Male ferrule needed, 9/64 Hi, doing a restoration on a nice 3-piece South Bend and need a 9/64chome plated brass ferrule. Hoping someone has one in their stash of oldferrules. I seem to have everything else right now. Thanks,Bill Walters from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Sep 15 16:00:48 2000 e8FL0lG21806 Fri, 15 Sep 2000 15:58:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Intro, and a question The archives have a number of tapers in this size range. Every time a pollis taken, the top 3 choices are usually PHY tapers ! GMA from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Sep 15 16:31:07 2000 e8FLV6G23043 0000 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Intro, and a question Hi John, Welcome! Parabolic eh? You probably want a Pezon et Micheltaper. I believe the archives of this site may have one to fit the billalthough in 2pc. This can be converted to 3pc. A para is a good firstrod because they tend to have heavier tip dimension. If you have troublelocating a taper you like I have a 8'2" #6/7 Pezon et Michel Truan Iwill mike and post. The rod is a rocket launcher. Marty Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in the Forestry dept.atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since it is obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Im looking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in the lighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most is an early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, for a 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybe first), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience" is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Sep 15 16:41:28 2000 e8FLfRG23733 Fri, 15 Sep 2000 14:41:16 -0700 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Intro, and a question Welcome aboard, John. (Hey folks, this is the fellow from Vermont Imentioned a week or so ago. Y'all be nice to him, ya hear!)No way you will go wrong with a Paul Young para-15. Or with WayneCattanach's version of that rod, known as "The Force." As an experiencedwoodworker, there's no reason that your first rod should not be one you willtreasure for years. Making this first rod will take a while, and every minutewill bring new challenges. But that's what makes this hobby so much fun. Harry Boyd John Shane wrote: Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in the Forestry dept.atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since it is obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Im looking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in the lighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most is an early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, for a 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybe first), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience" is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Fri Sep 15 17:00:20 2000 e8FM0JG24395 Subject: RE: Intro, and a question John - I've only made about 12 rods so far, so I'm no expert, but I wanted torespond because I also wanted to make a 3-piece rod for my first. The adviceyou generally get is to make a 2-piece rod, but I did the 3-piece and Idon't regret it. Although you do obviously have 1 more ferrule, I found iteasier to have the shorter strips as I first got used to planning. And Ilove the resulting rod. I happen to have bought a Phillipson 8'6" 3pc 5wt PowerPakt rod as my firstbamboo stick, and I love it. There is a taper in the rodmakers archive for avery similar rod at http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/tapers/wmga/wmga86.html The taper in the archive is a Wright&McGill Granger Aristocrat. Phillipsonused Granger tapers with only small changes (in most cases) and my rod isvery similar. The taper in the archives shows two tips - the heavier one islike the one I have. I don't know if it's an orthodox para. It responds delicately and crisply toshort casts with the top third of the rod, but when called on for powerflexes deeply and throws an incredible amount of line. The parts of thetaper requiring the most stiffness happen to fall about where the ferrulesare in a 3-piece rod so it's a good choice in that sense. Have fun... Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: Intro, and a question Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in the Forestry dept. atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since it is obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Im looking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in the lighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most is an early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, for a 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybe first), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience" is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 from cphisey@neca.com Fri Sep 15 21:27:33 2000 e8G2RWG27214 1.5.2 Subject: Interesting ebay auction Saw an interesting item up for bid on E-bay,dutch bidding on registration advertise a rodmakers gathering.No finacial interest,yada yada.Charles Hisey from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 15 22:26:00 2000 e8G3Q0G27941 ;Sat, 16 Sep 2000 03:25:51 +0000 Subject: Re: Interesting ebay auction Hi Charles, That's Darrel Lee's way of getting folks interested in the gathering. He's trying to defray the cost of Mr. Powell's appearance. Ratherclever if you ask me... Dennis Charles Hisey wrote: Saw an interesting item up for bid on E-bay,dutch bidding on registration advertise a rodmakers gathering.No finacial interest,yada yada.Charles Hisey from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Sep 16 09:13:46 2000 e8GEDhG04888 Subject: is there anybody out there??? Bad form I know, but is there anybody out there????/**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from dpeaston@wzrd.com Sat Sep 16 12:07:08 2000 e8GH77G07043 Subject: Re: is there anybody out there??? Tony, Were all blown away by the spectacular opening in Sydney Bad form I know, but is there anybody out there????/**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from if6were9@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 16 14:48:50 2000 e8GJmoG09277 Subject: Thanks.....and another question Thanks for all the help on a tying vise. I just returned from a trip toN/W Florida where I was able to get a very good lesson on rotary tying from a shop owner friend. I went prepared to buy a Dyna King Barracuda,but after my rotary lesson (and a half day of practice), I came homewith a Saltwater Traveler and a huge bag of tying material, as well asmost of my money.I also saw a split cane trolling rod in a Ft. Walton Beach pawn shop.The only thing the shop owner could tell me was what he wanted for it,and the thing was completely devoid of any markings that might give aclue as to builder or age. It was a spigot type construction typical oftrolling rods and was outfitted with an EVA foregrip and almost newAftco roller guides. It had a waisted butt section turned from whatlooked like ash and had a mid 60's Perfection reel seat. I'm sure itwas refinished as the varnish was near perfect and the guides (and EVA)were not consistent with the style of the butt. The thing that was mostimpressive (at least to me) was the quality of the joints in the rod.The sections of cane were so well fitted it looked like a single piecerather than six sections, and it was arrow straight. Can anyone tell mewhere I can getany information on heavy bamboo rods like this?Thanks again for all the help on a tying vise, and thanks in advance forany help on my current question. Pat from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Sat Sep 16 14:59:21 2000 e8GJxKG09533 ;Sat, 16 Sep 2000 19:59:11 +0000 Subject: Re: is there anybody out there??? Hi Tony, We're still here. I just got back from a day of fishing inPennsylvania. That's where I suspect a lot of folks from the northeastUS are today. The weather's beautiful today. At least it is here inNew Jersey and PA. Time to start my Saturday chores now. UGH! Dennis Dennis Tony Young wrote: Bad form I know, but is there anybody out there???? /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sat Sep 16 16:24:25 2000 e8GLOOG11041 Sat, 16 Sep 2000 22:24:19 +0100 Subject: Re: is there anybody out there??? Tony,Just got back from that great British tradition.......a trip to thepub......only problem being I had to drink 'Fosters'.....Paul Dennis Haftel wrote: Hi Tony, We're still here. I just got back from a day of fishing inPennsylvania. That's where I suspect a lot of folks from the northeastUS are today. The weather's beautiful today. At least it is here inNew Jersey and PA. Time to start my Saturday chores now. UGH! Dennis Dennis Tony Young wrote: Bad form I know, but is there anybody out there???? /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from jshane@nature.snr.uvm.edu Sat Sep 16 17:34:29 2000 e8GMYSG12195 Subject: thanks to all Well, Harry Boyd told me you were all a fine bunch, but believe me.. I'vegotten some excellent advice and info, and several have offered to fieldquestions when the project leaves the planning stage and starts down thereality path. Although there are only about 6 weeks of Vermont streamfishing left, upland birds and the wily whitetail will delay full blownrodbuilding until December or so.. but I will be gathering materials andtools and..... asking questions!! THanks again- j. from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Sep 16 19:17:57 2000 e8H0HuG13740 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Intro, and a question To whomever was/is interested in the Pezon et Michel taper, here it is!Pezon et michel Super Parabolic PPP Traun Type Hans8'-2" 2pc. #6/7 line staggered ferruletip length 50 3/4"/ butt length 48"8" grip / 3 1/2" alum. UL seatTip Butt00 .091 .26805 .100 .270 10 .118 .27015 .137 .28120 .152 .29225 .165 .29730 .180 .30235 .196 .312 (36 3/4" start of grip)40 .210 under grip45 .224 under grip50 .234 Guide spacing / Tip / butt5 1/8" 5 3/8"11 5/8" 13 1/2"18 1/2" 22" (stripper)25 1/2"32 3/4"40 1/4"48"First 10" of the butt section have a flat taper (no typo)Good Luck, Marty DeSapioHello Marty, I'm presently building a Pezon and Michel Fario Club. I would love to getthe taper for your Truan if possible since I plan to build a few Ritztapers this winter. Thanks in advance, Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 5:22 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Intro, and a question Hi John, Welcome! Parabolic eh? You probably want a Pezon et Micheltaper. I believe the archives of this site may have one tofit the billalthough in 2pc. This can be converted to 3pc. A para is a good firstrod because they tend to have heavier tip dimension. If youhave troublelocating a taper you like I have a 8'2" #6/7 Pezon et Michel Truan Iwill mike and post. The rod is a rocket launcher. Marty Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in theForestry dept. atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since itis obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Imlooking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in thelighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most isan early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, fora 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybefirst), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience"is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 from bjust@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 16 22:00:32 2000 e8H30VG15792 Subject: 3-jaw chuck update I wan't to thank everyone for helping me with my lathe chuck trouble.This morning I examined the jaws and noticed they were numbered likemany people said. Once I started them in the right order they wentright on. I was so happy I glued up some cork and turned a grip for the4'4" Thramer I'm building. Once again the list has come to my rescue.Thanks again! from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Sep 17 04:12:13 2000 e8H9CCG19346 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Intro, and a question Hi All, I forgot to mention measurments taken over varnish. Deduct .003MartyTo whomever was/is interested in the Pezon et Michel taper, here it is!Pezon et michel Super Parabolic PPP Traun Type Hans8'-2" 2pc. #6/7 line staggered ferruletip length 50 3/4"/ butt length 48"8" grip / 3 1/2" alum. UL seatTip Butt00 .091 .26805 .100 .27010 .118 .27015 .137 .28120 .152 .29225 .165 .29730 .180 .30235 .196 .312 (36 3/4" start of grip)40 .210 under grip45 .224 under grip50 .234 Guide spacing / Tip / butt5 1/8" 5 3/8"11 5/8" 13 1/2"18 1/2" 22" (stripper)25 1/2"32 3/4"40 1/4"48"First 10" of the butt section have a flat taper (no typo)Good Luck, Marty DeSapioHello Marty, I'm presently building a Pezon and Michel Fario Club. I would love to getthe taper for your Truan if possible since I plan to build a few Ritztapers this winter. Thanks in advance, Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, September 15, 2000 5:22 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Intro, and a question Hi John, Welcome! Parabolic eh? You probably want a Pezon et Micheltaper. I believe the archives of this site may have one tofit the billalthough in 2pc. This can be converted to 3pc. A para is a good firstrod because they tend to have heavier tip dimension. If youhave troublelocating a taper you like I have a 8'2" #6/7 Pezon et Michel Truan Iwill mike and post. The rod is a rocket launcher. Marty Hello all. My name is John Shane, 'Im from Vermont, and teach in theForestry dept. atthe University here.I am about to take the plunge into a first rod and since itis obviously atime commitment have been considering what to attempt. Imlooking foradvice and a reality check. My favorite rods are parabolic. I am well supplied in thelighter rodweights.. at least for now. So I guess what I need most isan early-seasonrod. For me, this would be a rod at least 8 feet long, fora 5-6 wt line,and 3-piece. First, can you suggest good tapers, and second (maybefirst), as long as Irealize that the first rod will be a "learning experience"is there anyreason not to attempt this style (I am a pretty decent woodworker). THANKS- j. ===================================================================John Shane (802) 656-2907University of Vermont jshane@nature.snr.uvm.eduForestry Department FAX -- (802)656-8683Burlington, Vt. 05405 from cbogart@shentel.net Sun Sep 17 15:49:28 2000 e8HKnSG26816 (5.0.2195;1) Subject: Catskill Gathering Photos To All I just posted the first batch of Gathering photos to the Gathering website: http://www.canerod.com/Gatherings/Catskill/Catskill2000.html Just follow link to Gathering Photos. I have a ton of photos to gothroughyet and this will be the first of several pages of photos. Chris from Canerods@aol.com Sun Sep 17 17:03:16 2000 e8HM3FG28581 Subject: Notepad Virus allert!!!!!!!!!!! There's a new trojan worm that replaces notepad with a larger file on W98 machines. I know - I was infected!! McAffee did pick it up and I had to delete notepad on my desktop. DO NOT RUN notepad if the file size is larger than 60K. Jerry Pournelle's http://www.jerrypournelle.com/view/currentview.html#Wednesday Don Burns from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Sep 17 22:20:55 2000 e8I3KrG04417 Subject: planing forms Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0217B.76005080 I have discussed this problem with Tony at some length, but I guess =there are a lot more steel forms over there than there are in Australia, =so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a precision metal manufacturing =company locally, selected as much for their ability to mill the required =length as anything else. I am pretty unhappy with the results. When I set the forms up with the centre gauge, to say .125, I would =expect that when I have planed down to fine metal shavings, I ought to =be somewhere in the ball park; but I'm not ,and the variability is not =constant. I can be up to .020 out of whack. I have measured and miked =the bloody things, and done all the things that common sense would =suggest, with the exception of going and inserting them high into the =colon of the person who made them. My conclusion is that the forms do =not only move in one plane when the push screws and pull screws are =operated, and that as a result the relationship between the two flat =surfaces varies also in the vertical plane. I have a close friend who is a tool and die maker. This guy did not make =the forms in the first place because his small shop could not handle =the 6-foot length. So I asked him if he would get the things =stress-relieved and then put in dowels, so that the degrees of freedom =would be reduced, and then I could "do a Jack Howell" and stone the =things flat. (Though Jack Howell must be a very old man judging from my =experience of trying to stone these forms of mine in the past; I reckon =you could easily spend about 40 years doing the job, and with all the =diesel you'd smell like the engine room of a tramp steamer as well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that if he dowels them, which he says is no =trouble, I will not be able to move them except parallel; he says that =is the function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method by which the forms can be usable, but it =still gets up my nose that I have to keep continually compensating for =the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do produce rods in the =end that are accurate within the definition af the Act, but it can be a =real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at the moment, so what do you all =think. And have I in fact got the worst forms in the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0217B.76005080 I have discussed this problem with Tony= length, but I guess there are a lot more steel forms over there than = in Australia, so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a = metal manufacturing company locally, selected as much for their ability = results. When I set the forms up with thecentre = metal shavings, I ought to be somewhere in the ball park; but I'm not = variability is not constant. I can be up to .020 out of whack. I have = and miked the bloody things, and done all the things that common sense = suggest, with the exception of going and inserting them high into the = the person who made them. My conclusion is that the forms do not only = one plane when the push screws and pull screws are operated, and that as = result the relationship between the two flat surfaces varies also in the = vertical plane. I have a close friend who is a tool and = could not handle the 6-foot length. So I asked him if he would get the = stress-relieved and then put in dowels, so that the degrees of freedom = reduced, and then I could "do a Jack Howell" and stone the things flat. = Jack Howell must be a very old man judging from my experience of trying = these forms of mine in the past; I reckon you could easily spend about = doing the job, and with all the diesel you'd smell like the engine room = tramp steamer as well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that if he= them, which he says is no trouble, I will not be able to move them = parallel; he says that is the function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method by which= compensating for the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do = in the end that are accurate within the definition af the Act, but it = real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at = world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling= the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0217B.76005080-- from martinj@aa.net Sun Sep 17 22:30:54 2000 e8I3UrG04798 Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:30:43 -0700 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: RE: planing forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C020E5.FB93A210 Just a comment. I think that the way a form works i.e. each form mustmirrorthe other one exactly, they would be extremely difficult to make period. Addthis to the anal retentive nature of most rod makers (me included of course)who desire "space shuttle" accuracies and you end up with a very perplexingtask... Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 9:20 PM Subject: planing forms I have discussed this problem with Tony at some length, but I guess thereare a lot more steel forms over there than there are in Australia, so heregoes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a precision metal manufacturingcompanylocally, selected as much for their ability to mill the required length asanything else. I am pretty unhappy with the results. When I set the forms up with the centre gauge, to say .125, I wouldexpect that when I have planed down to fine metal shavings, I ought to besomewhere in the ball park; but I'm not ,and the variability is notconstant. I can be up to .020 out of whack. I have measured and miked thebloody things, and done all the things that common sense would suggest, withthe exception of going and inserting them high into the colon of the personwho made them. My conclusion is that the forms do not only move in oneplanewhen the push screws and pull screws are operated, and that as a result therelationship between the two flat surfaces varies also in the verticalplane. I have a close friend who is a tool and die maker. This guy did not makethe forms in the first place because his small shop could not handle the6-foot length. So I asked him if he would get the things stress-relieved andthen put in dowels, so that the degrees of freedom would be reduced, andthen I could "do a Jack Howell" and stone the things flat. (Though JackHowell must be a very old man judging from my experience of trying to stonethese forms of mine in the past; I reckon you could easily spend about 40years doing the job, and with all the diesel you'd smell like the engineroom of a tramp steamer as well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that if he dowels them, which he says is notrouble, I will not be able to move them except parallel; he says that isthe function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method by which the forms can be usable, but it stillgets up my nose that I have to keep continually compensating for theinherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do produce rods in the end thatare accurate within the definition af the Act, but it can be a real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at the moment, so what do you all think.And have I in fact got the worst forms in the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C020E5.FB93A210 comment. I think that the way a form works i.e. each form must mirror = one exactly, they would be extremely difficult to make period. Add this = anal retentive nature of most rod makers (me included of course) who = task... Jensen petermckeanSent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 formsI have discussed this problem with = length, but I guess there are a lot more steel forms over there than = in Australia, so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a = metal manufacturing company locally, selected as much for their = mill the required length as anything else. I am pretty unhappy with = results. When I set the forms up with the = metal shavings, I ought to be somewhere in the ball park; but I'm not = variability is not constant. I can be up to .020 out of whack. I have = and miked the bloody things, and done all the things that common sense = suggest, with the exception of going and inserting them high into the = the person who made them. My conclusion is that the forms do not only = one plane when the push screws and pull screws are operated, and that = result the relationship between the two flat surfaces varies also in = vertical plane. I have a close friend who is a tool = small shop could not handle the 6-foot length. So I asked him if he = the things stress-relieved and then put in dowels, so that the degrees = freedom would be reduced, and then I could "do a Jack Howell" and = things flat. (Though Jack Howell must be a very old man judging from = experience of trying to stone these forms of mine in the past; I = could easily spend about 40 years doing the job, and with all the = smell like the engine room of a tramp steamer as well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that if = them, which he says is no trouble, I will not be able to move them = parallel; he says that is the function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method bywhich = can be usable, but it still gets up my nose that I have to keep = compensating for the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do = rods in the end that are accurate within the definition af the Act, = be a real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at = so what do you all think. And have I in fact got the worst forms in = world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic inangling = ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C020E5.FB93A210-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sun Sep 17 22:38:18 2000 e8I3cGG05113; Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:37:43 -0700 Subject: Southern Rodmakers Gathering Hats Friends,Don't mean to be a problem to those of you who aren'tinterested, but I need a little help with the Gatheringplanned for October 26-28. We're going to make up somereally nice caps with the SRG logo for those who want them.The charge will be $18-25, depending on how many we order.If I remember correctly, the hats are waxed cotton, in adark hunter green with a brown bill.Here's where you come in -- Let me know three things:1. If you're planning to attend2. If so, how many caps would you like.3. Others you know who are attending but will not getthis message. Please let me know. We will order the hatsaccordingly. (Off List, PLEASE -- so we don't waste anymore bandwidth)Also, I think it would be nice for all the participantsto sign one or two of the hats, and auction one and give theother as a door prize. Thanks,Harry --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sun Sep 17 22:51:24 2000 e8I3pNG05520 Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:51:12 -0700 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: planing forms Peter,What's wrong with having them doweled? Isn't thecurrent thinking that doweled forms are state of the artright now?Once you have the dowel pins in place, flattening eachside isn't too much trouble. I would suggest starting witha rather coarse file, following the instructions in Wayne'sbook. Once the surfaces get close to uniform, switch to thestone just to improve the finish. You should be able to getthem done in an evening.I suppose this reminds us all that one should eitherbuild the forms himself, or buy them from an experienced,reputable maker. Too many good machinists don't understandwhat we need well enough to be able to reproduce it. Harry Boyd petermckean wrote: But my friend Dicko tells me that if he dowels them, whichhe says is no trouble, I will not be able to move themexcept parallel; he says that is the function of thedowels.snipI thought the list is a bit quiet at themoment, so what do you all think. And have I in fact gotthe worst forms in the world? from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sun Sep 17 23:17:03 2000 e8I4H2G06182 21:16:59 PDT Subject: Re: planing forms "rod 'akers" peter, i am assuming that you are setting your formswith a depth gauge and measuring the planed splineswith calipers. have you compared the two to see ifone or both of your tools are off some. the pointsare often not at zero. you could plane a spline, measure it with your calipers and reset the depthgauge itself accordingly. on the other hand maybe iam not following you. maybe i am missing the issue. timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Mon Sep 18 04:35:04 2000 e8I9Z1G10236 Subject: Re: planing forms Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C021AF.B900BA80 Larry No, forms not doweled, except insofar as the pull screws smooth portion =acts as a sort of a dowel, maybe. The point that my friend makes, though, is that if he dowels them =properly, the dowels will prevent differential setting of the groove. =The forms are made from 1" cold rolled mild, and I can see how they =might be hard to bend. His second point is that if he dowels them with =enough slop to allow me to "set" the tapers, why bother dowelling in =the first place. I am a biologist, not an engineer. In my business, you can bend =anything, and if you break something it virtually fixes itself. Thanks, Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 1:27 PMSubject: RE: planing forms Peter; you do not mention whether or not the forms are doweled at the =present?? If they don't.... that is your problem (or at least the most =glaring one).Shoot an answer back, and we'll get on to planing forms, part II -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 12:20 AM Subject: planing forms I have discussed this problem with Tony at some length, but I guess =there are a lot more steel forms over there than there are in Australia, =so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a precision metal manufacturing =company locally, selected as much for their ability to mill the required =length as anything else. I am pretty unhappy with the results. When I set the forms up with the centre gauge, to say .125, I would =expect that when I have planed down to fine metal shavings, I ought to =be somewhere in the ball park; but I'm not ,and the variability is not =constant. I can be up to .020 out of whack. I have measured and miked =the bloody things, and done all the things that common sense would =suggest, with the exception of going and inserting them high into the =colon of the person who made them. My conclusion is that the forms do =not only move in one plane when the push screws and pull screws are =operated, and that as a result the relationship between the two flat =surfaces varies also in the vertical plane. I have a close friend who is a tool and die maker. This guy did not =make the forms in the first place because his small shop could not =handle the 6-foot length. So I asked him if he would get the things =stress-relieved and then put in dowels, so that the degrees of freedom =would be reduced, and then I could "do a Jack Howell" and stone the =things flat. (Though Jack Howell must be a very old man judging from my =experience of trying to stone these forms of mine in the past; I reckon =you could easily spend about 40 years doing the job, and with all the =diesel you'd smell like the engine room of a tramp steamer as well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that if he dowels them, which he says =is no trouble, I will not be able to move them except parallel; he says =that is the function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method by which the forms can be usable, but it =still gets up my nose that I have to keep continually compensating for =the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do produce rods in the =end that are accurate within the definition af the Act, but it can be a =real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at the moment, so what do you all =think. And have I in fact got the worst forms in the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long =silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C021AF.B900BA80 Larry No, forms not doweled, except = pull screws smooth portion acts as a sort of a dowel, =maybe. The point that my friend makes, = if he dowels them properly, the dowels will prevent differential setting = groove. The forms are made from 1" cold rolled mild, and I can see how = might be hard to bend. His second point is that if he dowels them with = place. I am a biologist, not an engineer. = business, you can bend anything, and if you break something it virtually = itself. Thanks, Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Larry = Sent: Monday, September 18, = PMSubject: RE: planing =forms Peter; you do not mention whether or not the forms are = present?? If they don't.... that is your problem (or at least the most = one).Shoot an answer back, and we'll get on to planing forms, part = II Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of petermckeanSent: Monday, September 18,2000 = formsI have discussed this problem with = length, but I guess there are a lot more steel forms over there than = are in Australia, so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by = metal manufacturing company locally, selected as much for their = mill the required length as anything else. I am pretty unhappy with = results. When I set the forms up with the = fine metal shavings, I ought to be somewhere in the ball park; but = ,and the variability is not constant. I can be up to .020 out of = have measured and miked the bloody things, and done all the things = common sense would suggest, with the exception of going and = high into the colon of the person who made them. My conclusion is = forms do not only move in one plane when the push screws and pull = operated, and that as a result the relationship between the two flat = surfaces varies also in the vertical plane. I have a close friend who is a tool = small shop could not handle the 6-foot length. So I asked him if he = get the things stress-relieved and then put in dowels, so that the = of freedom would be reduced, and then I could "do a Jack Howell" and = the things flat. (Though Jack Howell must be a very old man judging = experience of trying to stone these forms of mine in the past; I = could easily spend about 40 years doing the job, and with all the = you'd smell like the engine room of a tramp steamer as =well.). But my friend Dicko tells me that = them, which he says is no trouble, I will not be able to move them = parallel; he says that is the function of the dowels. Tony has suggested a method by = can be usable, but it still gets up my nose that I have to keep = compensating for the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. I mean, I do = rods in the end that are accurate within the definition af the Act, = can be a real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet = moment, so what do you all think. And have I in fact got the worst = the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in = so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C021AF.B900BA80-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Sep 18 08:28:54 2000 e8IDSsG13420 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:26:03 -0500 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: planing forms I can't see why having them move only parallel is not what you want, if theyare doweled. I gather from what you say, that turning the screw(s) raises orlowers one side, to throw it off at a station. Wouldn't having the entireset doweled give only the movement you are seeking ? GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Sep 18 08:41:14 2000 e8IDfDG13949 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:37:55 -0500 "Larry Blan" Subject: Re: planing forms My understanding of how to dowel two sections is a hard press on only oneside, and perhaps a .0005"/.0010" fit to the dowel on the other side. Then,if the screws are push/pull, they would move one side accordingly. You wouldstill have no movement other than parallel. Special reamers for such fitscan be had from Travers Tool, for under $20 ! GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 08:58:53 2000 e8IDwrG14820 06:58:49 PDT Subject: Re: planing forms peter, you know garrison didn't set his forms with adepth gauge. he had short planed out strips that heused. he would put a straight edge across the the topof the form and move the strip under the straight edgetill it touched. maybe he realized something. myform is doweled and the dowels are snug enough that ihave had them get stuck and i can set my forms unlessi try to put a really steep taper above the grip. iwould think that if you are getting variances off thesame setting of .020 it is human or the form iswobblie. i've worked alot with calibration of testequipment and there are a lot of little things thatcan be missed when trying to diagnos a problem fromthe other side of the world. good luck to you. timothy --- petermckean wrote:Timothy The method you are suggesting is certainly the onewhich I will be using.And will continue to check each setting similarly. No, I don't think you are missing the point. I thinkthat I have a basicinaccuracy in the construct of the forms, or atleast something is happeningthat is inaccurate and unrepeatable, and being humanI prefer to think thatit's not me! But probably it is. I am fortunate to have a coupleof close friends whowork in the engineering field, and one in particularis pretty thorough. Hehas checked the accuracy of the center gauge, the 60degree-ness of thepoint, and the accuracy of the groove. I set the centre gauge by using a known 60 degreegroove of .150, the setthe forms, going up and down the bloody things about4 or 5 times to correctslight alterations caused by neighbouring stationadjustments. As far as Iam able, I have them as near as I can true to therecommended taper. But if I plane a strip down to the metal, at a pointwhich is supposed toyield a strip of, say 125 thou, the actual measuredstrip may vary fromabout 130 to maybe 150 thou. But the records I havekept indicate that thesame station does not necessarily have the sameerror next time it is set,and neither does it have an error which is aconstant fraction of thenotional setting next time it is set, whether it isset for the same, say125 on the next rod, or to some different settingaltogether. I will keep on setting the forms by carefulmeasuring of the first stripduring planing, I guess, the sort of method yousuggest for checking, onlyon and on ad infinitum. I mean, you get the feeling from listening to othersthat once they get down to the metal, the strip isfinished. In my case,that is far from the truth. Life is hard! Thanks for your help Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by thelong silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message -----From: "timothy troester" "rod 'akers" Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:16 PMSubject: Re: planing forms peter, i am assuming that you are setting yourformswith a depth gauge and measuring the planedsplineswith calipers. have you compared the two to seeifone or both of your tools are off some. thepointsare often not at zero. you could plane a spline,measure it with your calipers and reset the depthgauge itself accordingly. on the other hand maybeiam not following you. maybe i am missing theissue.timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access fromanywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from flyrod@pop.digisys.net Mon Sep 18 09:13:23 2000 e8IEDMG15408 Subject: Re: planing forms Peter , and all, Has anyone tried using the spring type roll pins for the form dowels? I am using these to build my forms with the thought that they would be more stable in the forms but still allow a somewhat easy adjustment. I haven't completed the forms yet,so I can't tell you if it will work, but I can't see any reason it would'nt . I followed Tom Penrose's instructions to the "T" except for this one deviation. Through out the draw filing operation, they seemed to be very solid and easy to get level. Any thoughts? Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from lblove@omniglobal.net Mon Sep 18 09:29:44 2000 e8IEThG16259 Subject: Re: planing forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C02152.70391D40 Hi Peter,Yes your friend is correct, if the holes are properly doweled there The forms I made use 3/8" stripper bolts as dowels. The holes are = the bolts are .373". from a machining stand point the fit is p*ss poor. = Why should they be doweled if there will be that much slop? Well that = good question...lets us say that they are not doweled(they really = we can use a term like "linearly restrained"... which bring us to the fact that one mans neat fit is another mans hog =slop, Brad Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 5:33 AMSubject: Re: planing forms Larry No, forms not doweled, except insofar as the pull screws smooth =portion acts as a sort of a dowel, maybe. The point that my friend makes, though, is that if he dowels them =properly, the dowels will prevent differential setting of the groove. =The forms are made from 1" cold rolled mild, and I can see how they =might be hard to bend. His second point is that if he dowels them with =enough slop to allow me to "set" the tapers, why bother dowelling in =the first place. I am a biologist, not an engineer. In my business, you can bend =anything, and if you break something it virtually fixes itself. Thanks, Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 1:27 PMSubject: RE: planing forms Peter; you do not mention whether or not the forms are doweled at =the present?? If they don't.... that is your problem (or at least the =most glaring one).Shoot an answer back, and we'll get on to planing forms, part II -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 12:20 AM Subject: planing forms I have discussed this problem with Tony at some length, but I =guess there are a lot more steel forms over there than there are in =Australia, so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made by a precision metal manufacturing =company locally, selected as much for their ability to mill the required =length as anything be usable, but it still gets up my nose that I have =to keep continually compensating for the inherent inaccuracy of the =tool. I mean, I do produce rods in the end that are accurate within the =definition af the Act, but it can be a real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet at the moment, so what do you =all think. And have I in fact got the worst forms in the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in angling is made so by the long =silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C02152.70391D40 Hi Peter, are properly doweled there Why should they be doweled if there will = good question...lets us say that they are =not doweled(they really aren't) we can use a term like "linearly =restrained"... which bring us to the fact that one mans neat fit is = mans hog slop, Brad ----- Original Message ----- petermckean Cc: 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Monday, September 18, = AMSubject: Re: planing =forms Larry No, forms not doweled, except = pull screws smooth portion acts as a sort of a dowel, =maybe. The point that my friend makes,= that if he dowels them properly, the dowels will prevent differential = of the groove. The forms are made from 1" cold rolled mild, and I can = they might be hard to bend. His second point is that if he dowels them = first place. I am a biologist, not an = business, you can bend anything, and if you break something it = itself. Thanks, Peterpetermckean@netspace.net.au silences..."Thomas McGuane ----- Original Message ----- Larry = Sent: Monday, September 18, = PMSubject: RE: planing =forms Peter; you do not mention whether or not the forms are = present?? If they don't.... that is your problem (or at least the = glaring one).Shoot an answer back, and we'll get on to planing forms, = II Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.w= rodmakers@w= Behalf Of petermckeanSent: Monday, September 18,= formsI have discussed this problem = some length, but I guess there are a lot more steel forms over = there are in Australia, so here goes again. I had a set of steel forms made = precision metal manufacturing company locally, selected as much = ability to mill the required length as anything be usable, but it still gets up my nose that I have to = continually compensating for the inherent inaccuracy of the tool. = I do produce rods in the end that are accurate within the = the Act, but it can be a real PITA. I thought the list is a bit quiet = moment, so what do you all think. And have I in fact got the worst = in the world? Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au "What is most emphatic in = so by the long silences..."Thomas McGuane ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C02152.70391D40-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Mon Sep 18 09:50:23 2000 e8IEoMG17062 Sep 2000 10:49:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Frakenstien rod Over the weekend I worked out a way to to be able to just get 5 feet frommy Morgan mill. I've got 3 splines of a 5 ft. one piece, parabolic, swelled buttpenta done already. The quad is in the planning stages. This is going to beinteresting....Darryl from cphisey@neca.com Mon Sep 18 09:59:19 2000 e8IExIG17461 Subject: binding weights At the Catskill gathering,I was asked about weights for binding on myGarrison style binder and my answer may of been a bit confusing betweentheweights used on the binding cord and the binding thread.So for the gentlemanthat asked- weight(with the 2nd tensioner set with no tension applied), then I set the2nd tensioner with the 1 1/2 lb weight so both tensioners togeather apply 11/2 lbs (send the tread through both tensioners and put the 1 1/2 lb weighton the binding thread adjusting the 2nd tensioner so the weight just barleymoves).I use this setting for all my binding.As to the weight on the binding cord,I use the 1 1/2 lb weight onthe pulley cord to bind sections for heat treating and for gluing the buttsections.I use the 3/4 lb weight on the pulley cord for glue binding my tipsections.I hope that clears up any misunderstandings if there was any.Charles Hisey from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Sep 18 10:11:27 2000 e8IFBQG17975 Subject: Re: binding weights I use the same weights as Charles when gluing the butt and tip. I hang achilds sand pail on the binding cord tensioner and use salt water sinkers 6oz, 8oz, and you can adjust as necessary. On the first pass of the binderI use half of the weight, and on the second binding I add the remainingweight, to remove any twist. The glued sections come out pretty good mostof the time. On the cord tensioner I pull on the cord (string) until it "feels" good,that is, a smooth release with no tight spots. ----------From: Charles Hisey Subject: binding weightsDate: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:59 AM At the Catskill gathering,I was asked about weights for binding on myGarrison style binder and my answer may of been a bit confusing betweentheweights used on the binding cord and the binding thread.So for thegentlemanthat asked- weight(with the 2nd tensioner set with no tension applied), then I setthe2nd tensioner with the 1 1/2 lb weight so both tensioners togeather apply11/2 lbs (send the tread through both tensioners and put the 1 1/2 lbweighton the binding thread adjusting the 2nd tensioner so the weight justbarleymoves).I use this setting for all my binding.As to the weight on the binding cord,I use the 1 1/2 lb weight onthe pulley cord to bind sections for heat treating and for gluing thebuttsections.I use the 3/4 lb weight on the pulley cord for glue binding mytipsections.I hope that clears up any misunderstandings if there was any.Charles Hisey from earsdws@duke.edu Mon Sep 18 13:26:45 2000 e8IIQgG25969 OAA01886; Organization: Hearing Research Laboratories Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Sep 18 13:38:02 2000 e8IIc1G26499 VL-MS-MR003.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: RE: turning a grip ON a rod First of all, you should divorce boss lady and buy a lathe (just kidding).Seriously, a lathe is REALLY useful and a small one like a Taig is quiteaffordable. Without a lathe, you could buy a type of hands-free holder for yourelectric drill. Then, rig something up (ie duck tape) to attach the reelseat end to whatever you have chucked into your drill. Support the otherend of the rod in something that won't damage it. A specie cork held inplace in the jaws of a vise is often handy. Then, run the drill on thelowest speed and sand carefully. Some rodbuilders use a rasp to take a lotof cork off and then finish with sandpaper. Richard --Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:28 PM Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change theshape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from jfreeman@cyberport.com Mon Sep 18 13:52:30 2000 e8IIqTG27326 Subject: Re: planing forms I'm using roll pins in mine with no problems at all. Jim ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: planing forms Peter , and all, Has anyone tried using the spring type roll pins for the form dowels? I am using these to build my forms with the thought that they would be more stable in the forms but still allow a somewhat easy adjustment. I haven't completed the forms yet,so I can't tell you if it will work, but I can't see any reason it would'nt . I followed Tom Penrose's instructions to the "T" except for this one deviation. Through out the draw filing operation, they seemed to be very solid and easy to get level. Any thoughts? Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Mon Sep 18 14:03:17 2000 e8IJ3GG27752 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod I thought it was a great idea until the drill tipped over. The butt sectionwrapped itself in the sleeve of my t-shirt and splintered into a fewthousand individual fibers... Buy the Lathe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from billh@inmind.com Mon Sep 18 14:16:42 2000 e8IJGgG28414 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 15:09:08 -0400 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Hi, David, I did the same thing with my first rod. The grip looked great, but just to fat for comfort. I just used strips of coarse grit emory paper wrapped around the grip to get the shape I wanted and finished up with 220/320 or so. Didn't take long at all and there's no problem with centering if you're careful. I haven't yet turned a grip on the rod, anyway. I just don't like the idea of spinning my rods at that speed. The idea of my beautiful blank disintegrating into a thousand splinters keeps me conservative. Instead I use the method outlined in maurer's book: grease a steel dowel with paraffin, turn the grip and then ream it out to fit the rod. Works fine. bill hoy At 02:28 PM 9/18/00, David W. Smith wrote:A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from lwk4b@virginia.edu Mon Sep 18 14:17:52 2000 e8IJHpG28513 18 Sep 2000 15:17 EDT MMDF-Warning: Parse error in original version of preceding line atmail.virginia.edu Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Dave,There is a program on PBS about an Old Yankee Workshop. The guy uses old,old tools. He also uses a foot powered lathe which uses a bow connected bycord to a foot pedal. The cord wraps around the work piece (like binder) andfoot pumping action will turn the workpiece. Maybe in library you could findone of his books that would give plans for such a device. I think it wouldbe adequate to turn grips and if you are able to properly support therod/blank you could install ferrules.Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from flytyr@southshore.com Mon Sep 18 14:20:48 2000 e8IJKlG28837 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:28:04 -0500 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Well guys, Just back from the SLC show so I thought I would jump in on thisone.Did not think about it till now. Harbor Freight just recently sent me a salemessage that listed a lathe that you can clamp to a workbench and it is runbya hand drill motor. I dumped the sale message so I don't have it now.As I remember, the sale price was less than 30.00. This might be a usefultool web page www.harborfreight.comTony FlyTyr@southshore.com Richard Nantel wrote: First of all, you should divorce boss lady and buy a lathe (just kidding).Seriously, a lathe is REALLY useful and a small one like a Taig is quiteaffordable. Without a lathe, you could buy a type of hands-free holder for yourelectric drill. Then, rig something up (ie duck tape) to attach the reelseat end to whatever you have chucked into your drill. Support the otherend of the rod in something that won't damage it. A specie cork held inplace in the jaws of a vise is often handy. Then, run the drill on thelowest speed and sand carefully. Some rodbuilders use a rasp to take a lotof cork off and then finish with sandpaper. Richard --Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:28 PM Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change theshape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 14:22:08 2000 e8IJM8G29006 12:22:04 PDT Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod david, there is a device/jig that can be bought fromhook and hackle that will hold the reel seat end ofthe rod and will fit in the drill chuck. it is about10 bucks. if you look at the pic in the catalogue youcan use that as an example to make one yourself. thisis good at low speeds only and you need to cover thereel seat with duct tape or something so as not toscour the seat. it is a pvc cap with a bolt thru themiddle and sticking out the back. then three thumbscrews spaced around the cap at equal distances tohold the seat. timothy here is where to get the catalogue. --- "David W. Smith" wrote:A question. Any thoughts as to how one might goabout (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod afew times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well aschange the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss ladywon't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end(which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 14:24:57 2000 e8IJOuG29258 12:24:49 PDT Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod "rod 'akers" paul, i use a drill press layed on it's side. ibuilt a rack to lay my drill press in. it works realgood. i've used a hand drill but you need a couple ofhelpers. it will only take a few minutes so thatshould not be bad. timothy --- Paul Goodwin wrote:I thought it was a great idea until the drill tippedover. The butt sectionwrapped itself in the sleeve of my t-shirt andsplintered into a fewthousand individual fibers... Buy the Lathe ----- Original Message -----From: "David W. Smith" Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:28 PMSubject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might goabout (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod afew times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well aschange the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss ladywon't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end(which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Mon Sep 18 14:47:30 2000 e8IJlUG00639 Rodmakers Subject: RE: turning a grip ON a rod try this. get a pvc pipe cap at your local plumbing store. drill a ole inthe exact center of the end. insert a bolt thru the , and use nuts andwashers to firmly clamp the bolt to the cap. now you have a spindle.putthreee or four equidistant small bolt thru the rim of the cap. you now havea chuck which will fit into your drill which will hold any size dowel,including a fully built rod handle. to attach the handle to the chuck,wrpat rubber bands from the rim bolts around the handle and back to thebolts. if your spaced them carefully around the rim, the handle should beaccurately centered.if there is any slippage when you're trying to sand thegrip, use more rubber bands, or heavier ones. hope this helps. chris o -----Original Message----- Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from brewer@teleport.com Mon Sep 18 15:29:19 2000 e8IKTIG03289 "taliesin" 13:29:14 2000 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod David, I was in the same situation you describe for over two years. I tried everycombination of turning using a drill and other tools. It is VERY easy todamage the bamboo if anything goes wrong (something did about half thetime). If the rod was more than a practice blank, I turned the cork on a 18"long piece of threaded steel rod with washers and two nuts holding the gluedcork in place. Not optimal, but that way at least the bamboo was not atrisk. BEST SUGGESTION: Make a friend with a lathe and borrow his! This tool isalmost essential to achieve predictable results. Randy Brewer ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod paul, i use a drill press layed on it's side. ibuilt a rack to lay my drill press in. it works realgood. i've used a hand drill but you need a couple ofhelpers. it will only take a few minutes so thatshould not be bad. timothy --- Paul Goodwin wrote:I thought it was a great idea until the drill tippedover. The butt sectionwrapped itself in the sleeve of my t-shirt andsplintered into a fewthousand individual fibers... Buy the Lathe ----- Original Message -----From: "David W. Smith" Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 2:28 PMSubject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might goabout (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod afew times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well aschange the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss ladywon't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end(which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from Ron_Elder@cpr.ca Mon Sep 18 15:30:49 2000 e8IKUkG03392 1999)) id 8725695E.0070AB67 ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:30:39 -0600 Subject: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes The postings on turning cork grips couldn't be more timely. I am interestedin feed back from the list on the 7x10/7x12 precision metal lathes thatHarbor Freight and Grizzly are selling. Is anybody using these? Are theyacceptable for turning grips, ferrule stations and jewelry/hardware? I am looking for feed back as it is time to purchase a lathe. Is this option agood bet or should I continue looking for an Atlas/Craftsman 6" or 9"? Is theAtlas/Craftsman overkill? Thanks in advance. .....ron Ron ElderCalgary, AB from dannyt@frisurf.no Mon Sep 18 15:47:25 2000 e8IKlOG04273 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 22:46:42 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod David, Take a look at Thomas Penrose site danny From: "David W. Smith" Organization: Hearing Research Laboratories Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 14:28:13 -0400 Subject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from Mackelvane@aol.com Mon Sep 18 16:22:19 2000 e8ILMIG05782 Sep 2000 17:21:49 -0400 Subject: Re: planing forms I suppose this reminds us all that one should eitherbuild the forms himself, or buy them from an >experienced,reputable maker. Too many good machinists don't >understandwhat we need well enough to be able to reproduce it. Here's a different take. A good machinist can easily reproduce a set ofplaning forms. In fact, the tolerances required for planing forms really aren'tconsidered all that demanding by machining standards. It really is a simpleprogressive taper. The dowels serve a very important purpose -- keeping thebar stock level at every station. Look at it this way: if forms can be constructed in your basement with asimple drill press and the primitive triangle file system described by severalauthors, skilled machinists should be more than able to turn out top- qualityforms. All it takes is time, and accuracy when drilling for the dowel pins,tapping the set screws and creating the taper. I suspect one of two thingshas gone wrong for people who have not had success with machined forms:the machinist's ability is questionable OR the end use and importance ofaccuracy was not properly explained to the machinist (with good plans towork from, this conversation should never need to occur). True machinists, not machine operators, make a living being extremelyaccurate. That accuracy can be cost-prohibitive, and it probably will costless to buy from someone who specializes only in making forms. from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Sep 18 17:02:56 2000 e8IM2sG07529 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 16:59:39 -0500 Subject: Re: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes The Atlas/Craftsman is not over kill for making ferrules, for sure ! A 10"Atlas was my first real lathe, and I even made piston rings on it. This isnot unlike ferrule tolerances. GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Sep 18 17:06:15 2000 e8IM6EG07725 Mon, 18 Sep 2000 17:03:05 -0500 Subject: Re: planing forms Truer words were never spoken ! You left out the cost of a mill large enoughto cut the tapers too ! GMA from channer1@rmi.net Mon Sep 18 17:42:15 2000 e8IMgEG08679 Subject: Re: planing forms Jim:If you are talking about the tension pins readily available at mosthardware stores, then I can tell you that they work just fine. I usedthem on my forms and I can easily adjust them and still get a good swellif i want it. i oiled the pins as i put them in and put the split inthem all facing down, I don't know if that made a difference or not, butwhat the hell.I thought that a dowel would require a precise hole andthe tension pins would allow me to just drill the holes with a standarddrill bit without having to ream to an exact size and it worked out justfine.John Jim Flinchbaugh wrote: Peter , and all,Has anyone tried using the spring type roll pins for the formdowels? I am using these to build my forms with the thought thatthey would be more stable in the forms but still allow a somewhateasy adjustment. I haven't completed the forms yet,so I can't tellyou if it will work, but I can't see any reason it would'nt . I followedTom Penrose's instructions to the "T" except for this one deviation.Through out the draw filing operation, they seemed to be very solidand easy to get level. Any thoughts? Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from jczimny@dol.net Mon Sep 18 17:44:37 2000 e8IMiaG08833 Organization: J. C. Zimny Rod Company Subject: Re: planing forms I suppose there are "true" machinists around. And, indeed, I know some. But,my experience has been that whenever a "true" machinist has been shown aplaning form and asked to reproduce it, they always say "sure that's easy".And then they often fail to produce a form according to specs. And alwayswith much gnashing of teeth. One must invest in some accurate fixturingequipment (costly) in order to make planing forms accurately and quickly.JohnZ Mackelvane@aol.com wrote: I suppose this reminds us all that one should eitherbuild the forms himself, or buy them from an >experienced,reputable maker. Too many good machinists don't >understandwhat we need well enough to be able to reproduce it. Here's a different take. A good machinist can easily reproduce a set ofplaning forms. In fact, the tolerances required for planing forms really aren'tconsidered all that demanding by machining standards. It really is a simpleprogressive taper. The dowels serve a very important purpose -- keeping thebar stock level at every station. Look at it this way: if forms can be constructed in your basement with asimple drill press and the primitive triangle file system described by severalauthors, skilled machinists should be more than able to turn out top- qualityforms. All it takes is time, and accuracy when drilling for the dowel pins,tapping the set screws and creating the taper. I suspect one of two thingshas gone wrong for people who have not had success with machined forms:the machinist's ability is questionable OR the end use and importance ofaccuracy was not properly explained to the machinist (with good plans towork from, this conversation should never need to occur). True machinists, not machine operators, make a living being extremelyaccurate. That accuracy can be cost-prohibitive, and it probably will costless to buy from someone who specializes only in making forms. from bassmeister_2000@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 17:48:03 2000 e8IMm2G09009 2000 15:47:54 PDT Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss ladywon't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end Boss lady won't let you buy a lathe because it's too much fun. Consider what other projects could be done with a lathe... Couldyou justify a lathe if you were to propose turning new legs forthe worn out dining room table? Nephew really good at baseballand need a bat? There's a thousand things that lathe could dooutside of the rod room. Second thought: are you happy with the reel seet? If only so-so,how about removing the reel seet and grip and starting over. Good luck,Joe =====Joe MulveyStoneham, MAwww.mulvey.eboard.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from channer1@rmi.net Mon Sep 18 17:55:08 2000 e8IMt7G09234 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Dave;You can mess around with all the inadequate drill/stand set ups thatyouwant, but you are as likely to destroy butt sections as anything else.Buy a lathe, i got one of the J.C. Bogeman lathes that are adverized inThe Planing Form and it works just fine for grips and ferrule stationsand cost around $300.00, if it saves you wrecking 2 butt sections thenit will have paid for itself and you will do much better work. A biggerlathe would be better, but one like this will do.John "David W. Smith" wrote: A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from bob@downandacross.com Mon Sep 18 18:04:20 2000 e8IN4JG09643 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod --=====================_2684497==_.ALT One good tip I have been using is to use dry wall mesh (220 or coarser) to get the bulk of the shaping done before switching to sand paper. Worksgreat.I think that I will try the dowel method in the future. Maybe I will even get some grips done ahead of time when building is slow.Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_2684497==_.ALT One good tip I have been using is to use dry wall mesh (220 orcoarser) to get the bulk of the shaping done before switching to sandpaper. Works great.I think that I will try the dowel method in the future. Maybe I will evenget some grips done ahead of time when building is slow. Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_2684497==_.ALT-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Sep 18 19:12:04 2000 e8J0C3G11789 VL-MS-MR002.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: RE: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes Terry Ackland, a well-known rodmaker to those on this list bought one lastspring. Although he already has a large lathe, he was looking for somethingportable. Hi review was that it looked like it was assembled by childrenwhen it arrived. Everything was loose and out of adjustment. Onceeverything was tightened and the lathed tuned up, he was very happy withit. He's a tool and die maker and knows lathes very very well. Here are couple of site by 7 x 10 devotees: http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm http://www.cyberamp.net/~mike/ml/minilathe.htm Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Ron_Elder@cpr.caSent: Monday, September 18, 2000 4:31 PM Subject: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes The postings on turning cork grips couldn't be more timely.I am interested in feed back from the list on the 7x10/7x12precision metal lathes that Harbor Freight and Grizzly areselling. Is anybody using these? Are they acceptable forturning grips, ferrule stations and jewelry/hardware? I am looking for feed back as it is time to purchase a lathe.Is this option a good bet or should I continue looking foran Atlas/Craftsman 6" or 9"? Is the Atlas/Craftsman overkill? Thanks in advance. .....ron Ron ElderCalgary, AB from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Sep 18 19:20:50 2000 e8J0KnG12239 VL-MS-MR001.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: RE: planing forms Here's a different take. A good machinist can easilyreproduce a set of planing forms. In my experience, drilling and tapping the holes, assembling the forms, etccan be done by a good machinist. When the time came to make the groove,however, two recommended machinists were unable to do so accurately. Theproblems encountered were: 1. A groove that wasn't centered between the two forms:2. Grooves much deeper than requested;3. steps in the groove instead of a constant taper. If I were to try to have forms built again, I'd have the machinist doeverything but the groove. But, since good forms are available for the sameprice as having them built by a machinist, I doubt I'll ever be in thatposition again. Richard from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Sep 18 19:22:34 2000 e8J0MXG12375 VL-MS-MR003.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: RE: turning a grip ON a rod Buy a lathe, i got one of the J.C. Bogeman lathes that areadverized inThe Planing Form The Bogeman lathe is the Taig lathe I mentioned earlier. A nice littlemachine. Too bad it doesn't do threads, though. Richard from rfairfie@cisco.com Mon Sep 18 19:40:08 2000 e8J0e7G12925 Subject: Re: planing forms I bought a set of forms that didn't come with dowels, and used roll pinsinstead. This was four years ago, and I have had excellent success withthem. They have the advantage that they will compress/bend a little, sothat the amount of force required to move the the forms while adjustingthem is less than it would be if tight fitting dowels were used. By all means,use the roll pins. Good luck,RogerAt 08:01 AM 9/18/00 -0600, Jim Flinchbaugh wrote:Peter , and all, Has anyone tried using the spring type roll pins for the form dowels? I am using these to build my forms with the thought that they would be more stable in the forms but still allow a somewhat easy adjustment. I haven't completed the forms yet,so I can't tell you if it will work, but I can't see any reason it would'nt . I followed Tom Penrose's instructions to the "T" except for this one deviation. Through out the draw filing operation, they seemed to be very solid and easy to get level. Any thoughts? Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Sep 18 20:14:37 2000 e8J1EaG13825 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Interesting ebay auction - Walton Powell hello all, Well, since I play on ebay so much, I thought I'd try it... the idea beingthat perhaps there are rodmakers that do not subscribe to this list (couldit be possible?). So far, no takers but still hoping... BTW, we have a handful of participantsthat have now paid so I'm sending Walt a confirmation letter that it is ago! He says he might even drag Press along if the boy isn't busy... 8^) I asked him if he had any "Essays on Fly Fishing" booklets left and he doesso i asked he bring some and anyone interested could purchase one and havehim autograph it... I didn't ask a price but I'm sure it will be far lessthat what I paid for one on ebay... DARN! Regards, Darrell Leewww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Interesting ebay auction Hi Charles, That's Darrel Lee's way of getting folks interested in the gathering.He's trying to defray the cost of Mr. Powell's appearance. Ratherclever if you ask me... Dennis Charles Hisey wrote: Saw an interesting item up for bid on E-bay,dutch bidding on registration advertise a rodmakers gathering.No finacial interest,yada yada.Charles Hisey from dickay@alltel.net Mon Sep 18 20:23:39 2000 e8J1NcG14085 UAA03416; Subject: Re: planing forms Organization: Peter, Have you tried setting the forms using any other method other thanaDepth Gauge? Chris Bogart has another method on his web site that usesdrill rods. The reason I ask this is that maybe the point of your DepthGauge is out of whack.Just a thought.Dick Fuhrman from dickay@alltel.net Mon Sep 18 20:31:15 2000 e8J1VEG14362 UAA27014; Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Organization: David, Several months back Shawn Pineo posted pictures of a Franken Lathethat he built using pillow blocks, a pully, a PVC reducer chuck, a piece ofpipe, and a motor. I would look in the archives for this picture.According to my notes it was early March. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrman from bjust@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 18 20:43:03 2000 e8J1h2G14713 Subject: Re: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes I have this lathe and have used it to turn ferrule stations and grips. I don'tknow a lot about metalworking or lathes, but so far this one seems to beadequate for my needs considering the price($349 on sale in the HarborFreight catalog). If you want a small metal lathe for under $500 Iwould definitely consider it or a Taig. Brian Ron_Elder@cpr.ca wrote: The postings on turning cork grips couldn't be more timely. I am interestedin feed back from the list on the 7x10/7x12 precision metal lathes thatHarbor Freight and Grizzly are selling. Is anybody using these? Are theyacceptable for turning grips, ferrule stations and jewelry/hardware? I am looking for feed back as it is time to purchase a lathe. Is this option agood bet or should I continue looking for an Atlas/Craftsman 6" or 9"? Is theAtlas/Craftsman overkill? Thanks in advance. .....ron Ron ElderCalgary, AB from bjust@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 18 20:51:17 2000 e8J1pHG15063 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod I believe the guy's name is Roy Underhill. I saw him and several others build alog cabin over the course of a week at a frontier days festival several yearsago with only hand tools. Brian Lee Koeser wrote: Dave,There is a program on PBS about an Old Yankee Workshop. The guy usesold,old tools. He also uses a foot powered lathe which uses a bow connected bycord to a foot pedal. The cord wraps around the work piece (like binder)andfoot pumping action will turn the workpiece. Maybe in library you could findone of his books that would give plans for such a device. I think it wouldbe adequate to turn grips and if you are able to properly support therod/blank you could install ferrules.Lee----- Original Message -----From: "David W. Smith" Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 11:28 AMSubject: turning a grip ON a rod A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Sep 18 21:15:00 2000 e8J2EuG15866 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:14:47 +0800 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:14:46 +0800 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod Have you considered buying your wife the lathe?I've seen there are a few posts on this already but I'll put my bit inanyhow and suggest you use a mandral to turn the cork and get yourself adrill driven lathe from a hardware store. They're cheap enough here so theyshould be dirt cheap in the US and they don't take up much space so you*could* even hide it if you had to :-)I really hate turning rod banks on a lathe so I use a mandral for corkseven though I *could* turn them on my lathe if I wanted to. TonyAt 02:28 PM 9/18/00 -0400, David W. Smith wrote:A question. Any thoughts as to how one might go about (re)turning acork grip on a bamboo rod? After using the rod a few times, I havedecided I want to thin it considerably, as well as change the shape. Ioriginally turned it using a hand drill (boss lady won't let me buy alathe), but that will only fit on the ferruled end (which seems like abad idea).Thoughts?, dws. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Sep 18 21:37:59 2000 e8J2bxG16602 VL-MS-MR003.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) 18 Sep 2000 22:37:46 -0400 Subject: Productopia Metal Lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C021BB.69C20DA0 FYI: Here's a site I came across containing pictures of just about everylathe on the market. http://productopia.netscape.com/offSite?returnID=3-335- omain&Type=embedded&src=editorial&ed=1&Link=http://www.lathes.co.uk/page21.html ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C021BB.69C20DA0 name="Productopia Metal Lathes.url" filename="Productopia Metal Lathes.url" [DEFAULT]BASEURL=3Dhttp://productopia.netscape.com/offSite?returnID=3D3-335- omain&=Type=3Dembedded&src=3Deditorial&ed=3D1&Link=3Dhttp://www.lathes.co.uk/pag=e21.html [DOC#15#16]BASEURL=3Dhttp://productopia.netscape.com/offSiteFrame/?StoreID=3DNA&Type==3Dembedded&src=3Deditorial&returnID=3D3-335- omain&ed=3D1&priceCompare=3D=&Link=3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Elathes%2Eco%2Euk%2Fpage21%2Ehtml [DOC#15#17]BASEURL=3Dhttp://www.lathes.co.uk/page21.html [InternetShortcut]URL=3Dhttp://productopia.netscape.com/offSite?returnID=3D3-335- omain&Type==3Dembedded&src=3Deditorial&ed=3D1&Link=3Dhttp://www.lathes.co.uk/page21.=htmlModified=3D20F698C2DC21C0012E ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C021BB.69C20DA0-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 21:49:35 2000 e8J2nZG16944 19:49:31 PDT Subject: bow lathe just for info sake here is some info on a bow lathesomeone mentioned earlier. timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Sep 18 22:11:20 2000 e8J3BJG18042 20:11:12 PDT Subject: RE: planing forms all, now i have to share this story. when i got mydial depth gauge i wanted to make an alteration in theblock for it. i looked all over for a machinist to doit. i couldn't find anyone that would do this simpletask. i was driving down a country road one day andcame upon this little burg at the intersection of twogravel roads and there was a machine shop. on a larki went in and asked if they could do the job. theytook my gauge and told me to return tomorrow. when icame back the next day the alteration was made notexactly as i had requested it but the old manunderstanding what i was doing made some otherchanges. when he saw i was pleased and after visitingabit the old man started asking me about what planingform i was using and begin telling me about thedifferent planing forms he had made. he named offsome makers of note and told me that planing formswere a problem that he presented to his students whenhe was teaching. not bad for the middle of a cornfield in bass country, eh? timothy --- Richard Nantel wrote:Here's a different take. A good machinist caneasilyreproduce a set of planing forms. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Sep 18 22:14:12 2000 e8J3E9G18218 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:14:03 +0800 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 11:14:00 +0800 Subject: RE: planing forms Isn't there a saying about judging books by their covers and the mistakesmade? Tony At 08:11 PM 9/18/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:all, now i have to share this story. when i got mydial depth gauge i wanted to make an alteration in theblock for it. i looked all over for a machinist to doit. i couldn't find anyone that would do this simpletask. i was driving down a country road one day andcame upon this little burg at the intersection of twogravel roads and there was a machine shop. on a larki went in and asked if they could do the job. theytook my gauge and told me to return tomorrow. when icame back the next day the alteration was made notexactly as i had requested it but the old manunderstanding what i was doing made some otherchanges. when he saw i was pleased and after visitingabit the old man started asking me about what planingform i was using and begin telling me about thedifferent planing forms he had made. he named offsome makers of note and told me that planing formswere a problem that he presented to his students whenhe was teaching. not bad for the middle of a cornfield in bass country, eh? timothy --- Richard Nantel wrote:Here's a different take. A good machinist caneasilyreproduce a set of planing forms. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.http://im.yahoo.com/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from timklein@uswest.net Tue Sep 19 01:36:20 2000 e8J6aJG22106 (63.225.127.159) Subject: Re: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes I had one of the HF 7x10's, but I returned it after a couple of weeks andreplaced it with a Sherline longbed lathe. The HF worked fine, but the bedwas just too short to turn a grip on a rod blank without removing thetailstock and rigging something else up to support the butt end of the rod. I knew that this would be a problem when I got it, but I figured I'd justturn grips on a dowel or something, then glue the completed grip on the rod.Seemed like a good idea at the time since I was afraid of screwing a grip upanyway, but after turning a few, I realized it was pretty simple and knewI'd regret the fact that I couldn't turn them on the blank between centers. Fortunately, HF took it back without a problem and I bought the Sherline.The HF seemed like a capable little machine though, and as others havementioned, it has quite a following. The only problem I had with mine wasthe gobs and gobs of protective grease that it was shipped in! (it took me 3nights to get all the gunk cleaned off of it, and it still splattered mewith red grease the first few times I got it up to turning speed). THe onlyadvice I'd give is to be very careful of the HF accessories. I boughtseveral, including a quick change toolpost that was absolutely worthless.Few of the others worked the way they were supposed to. (I also got a wood spur for the headstock from Grizzly that worked quitenicely. I still have it, and it doesn't fit my Sherline, If anyone needs awood spur that fits a #3 Morse taper, contact me off list. If you send mepostage, I'll let you have it!. If you have a HF lathe, I'll even throw inthe custom made tailstock wrench I made. It has a rubberized grip and fitssnugly enough on the tailstock bolt that you can leave it on the lathe) If you're still considering all options, I'd highly recommend the longbedSherline. It's especially nice if you don't have a permanent place for alathe. It costs a bit more, but it's extremely compact and very welldesigned. I mounted it on a 3/4" premade shelf, and added handles to theboard. This way it's very stable during use but easily stored. I've been sothrilled with it that I've sent away for a couple of small engine plans.(Great, just what I need, another hobby!). I figure that it'll improve mymachining skills and help me make the next step of making my own ferrules. ---Tim from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Sep 19 05:45:47 2000 e8JAjkG24451 0000 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod marty wrote: Problem: "Boss lady won't let me buy a lathe" Solution: Buy it anddon't tell boss lady. Works for me! Marty Buy a lathe, i got one of the J.C. Bogeman lathes that areadverized inThe Planing Form The Bogeman lathe is the Taig lathe I mentioned earlier. A nice littlemachine. Too bad it doesn't do threads, though. Richard from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Sep 19 08:18:50 2000 e8JDInG27054 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:15:49 -0500 Subject: Re: planing forms There are allot of machine operators, but few "true machinists", or"engineers" as the Brits call them ! GMA from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue Sep 19 08:18:58 2000 e8JDIvG27081 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:18:53 -0400 cphisey@neca.com,RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.eduSubject: RE: binding weights I find two 12-oz. cans of tuna fish work pretty well. -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 11:09 AM Subject: Re: binding weights I use the same weights as Charles when gluing the butt and tip. I hang achilds sand pail on the binding cord tensioner and use salt water sinkers 6oz, 8oz, and you can adjust as necessary. On the first pass of thebinderI use half of the weight, and on the second binding I add the remainingweight, to remove any twist. The glued sections come out pretty goodmostof the time. On the cord tensioner I pull on the cord (string) until it "feels" good,that is, a smooth release with no tight spots. ----------From: Charles Hisey Subject: binding weightsDate: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:59 AM At the Catskill gathering,I was asked about weights for binding on myGarrison style binder and my answer may of been a bit confusingbetweentheweights used on the binding cord and the binding thread.So for thegentlemanthat asked- lbweight(with the 2nd tensioner set with no tension applied), then I setthe2nd tensioner with the 1 1/2 lb weight so both tensioners togeatherapply11/2 lbs (send the tread through both tensioners and put the 1 1/2 lbweighton the binding thread adjusting the 2nd tensioner so the weight justbarleymoves).I use this setting for all my binding.As to the weight on the binding cord,I use the 1 1/2 lb weightonthe pulley cord to bind sections for heat treating and for gluing thebuttsections.I use the 3/4 lb weight on the pulley cord for glue binding mytipsections.I hope that clears up any misunderstandings if there was any.Charles Hisey from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Tue Sep 19 08:36:08 2000 e8JDa7G27845 IAA23618 for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:36:03 Subject: Re: turning a grip ON a rod I've turned many handles "on the rod" with a homemade, drill driven"lathe". I don't see what the problem is. Even with a real latheyou still have to support the rest of the rod...that seems to be the most important thing. I use two 1-inch ID bearings withsplit corks to hold the rod inside the bearing and masking tapeto keep the cork from wandering out. And don't spin the rod so fast that things vibrate. reaming it to size.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot- warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from bamboorods@siskiyou.net Tue Sep 19 08:58:44 2000 e8JDwhG28805 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64293U2500L250S0V35) Tue, 19 Sep 2000 06:48:54 -0700 Subject: E.C. Powell Tapers This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C02206.84BCFCA0 To All:I wish to catalog as many E.C. Powell tapers as are now available to the =members of this list. Would you be so kind as to post them, with E.C. =Powell Taper in the Subject area? Also, if you know of urls where they =are listed, please post. Thank-you in advance. Off-topic may contact =me off- list.Thanks,Chris Raine ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C02206.84BCFCA0 To All:I wish to catalog as many E.C. = Off-topic may contact me off-list.Thanks,Chris =Raine ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C02206.84BCFCA0-- from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue Sep 19 09:02:35 2000 e8JE2YG29110 0400 Subject: reaming a grip What kind of reamer do you use to fit a cork grip to your rod? I've triedusing a sharpened piece of copper tube in a drill press as a punch to getthe rings to size, one by one, but that was time-consuming andunsatisfactory since the holes did not all line up exactly upon gluing therings together, despite my efforts to center them in the press. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 19 09:10:01 2000 e8JE9xG29521 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:09:45 +0800 Subject: Re: reaming a grip I chuck a length of booker thread rod in the lathe and feed the finishedhandle onto it.Keep a tight grip and feed it very slowly onto the turning threaded rod andthe thread reames the handle.Don't ream it right through so the end you see (winding check end) will bea tight fit not needing a winding check unles you want to use one.Takes about 5 mins to do the job. Tony At 10:03 AM 9/19/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote: What kind of reamer do you use to fit a cork grip to your rod? I've triedusing a sharpened piece of copper tube in a drill press as a punch to getthe rings to size, one by one, but that was time-consuming andunsatisfactory since the holes did not all line up exactly upon gluing therings together, despite my efforts to center them in the press. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Sep 19 09:27:45 2000 e8JERiG00379 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:29:21 -0500 Subject: Re: reaming a grip A 1/4" round wood rasp does it neatly, and offers a good gluing surface. GMA from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Sep 19 09:29:38 2000 e8JETbG00555 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 07:29:22 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: reaming a grip Tony Young wrote: I chuck a length of booker thread rod in the lathe and feed the finishedhandle onto it. Tony,I'll show my ignorance here by asking: What's a "booker thread rod"? Harry from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Sep 19 09:34:13 2000 e8JEYAG00873 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:34:04 +0800 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 22:34:03 +0800 Subject: Re: reaming a grip "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" It's just threaded rod you buy from the hardware store. Comes in variousdia's like 1/4, 3/8 etc.Forgot to mention when you ream using this feed it onto the rod from thebutt end first. Tony At 09:28 AM 9/19/00 -0500, Harry Boyd wrote:Tony Young wrote: I chuck a length of booker thread rod in the lathe and feed the finishedhandle onto it. Tony,I'll show my ignorance here by asking: What's a "booker thread rod"? Harry /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel; But the use of the cart Will depend on the part Of the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from if6were9@bellsouth.net Tue Sep 19 09:51:58 2000 e8JEpvG01785 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: Re: reaming a grip Make up a "Razor Wand" from an old plastic rod. Cut a section of rod slightlysmaller than the diameter you need (allow enough extra for a full hand grip)andpaint it (not the handle portion) with hide glue. When the glue gets tacky, rollit in carbide grit and let it dry. Ream from the butt end of the grip andcheckthe fit often. I use hide glue as it can be peeled off and the rod reused asthegrit gets worn away. These things work great for individual rings or a fullgrip. Of course you can buy them already made from most of the bigcomponentsuppliers. Tony Young wrote: I chuck a length of booker thread rod in the lathe and feed the finishedhandle onto it.Keep a tight grip and feed it very slowly onto the turning threaded rod andthe thread reames the handle.Don't ream it right through so the end you see (winding check end) will bea tight fit not needing a winding check unles you want to use one.Takes about 5 mins to do the job. Tony At 10:03 AM 9/19/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote: What kind of reamer do you use to fit a cork grip to your rod? I'vetriedusing a sharpened piece of copper tube in a drill press as a punch to getthe rings to size, one by one, but that was time-consuming andunsatisfactory since the holes did not all line up exactly upon gluing therings together, despite my efforts to center them in the press. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will convergeIn the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from jfreeman@cyberport.com Tue Sep 19 10:18:49 2000 e8JFIjG03045 Subject: Re: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes Ron, I've got Grizzly's 9" x 20", and I would recommend the increased cost overthe 7". The bed is longer and gives you the room needed to turn cork on therod. Also, it's pretty strong and stable for turning threads and ferrules.I'm setting up to build rod cases at this time, and I'm not having anytroubles cutting 8 and 10 tpi at 1 1/2" plus boring out 1 1/2 solid stock ispretty easy. I don't think I would go smaller. In fact, I wish I would havebeen able to afford a 12" at the time, however the 9" is doing just fine ata much lower cost. Contact me if you need any more on the 9". Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: HF/Grizzly Mini Metal Lathes The postings on turning cork grips couldn't be more timely. I aminterested in feed back from the list on the 7x10/7x12 precision metallathes that Harbor Freight and Grizzly are selling. Is anybody using these?Are they acceptable for turning grips, ferrule stations andjewelry/hardware? I am looking for feed back as it is time to purchase a lathe. Is thisoption a good bet or should I continue looking for an Atlas/Craftsman 6" or9"? Is the Atlas/Craftsman overkill? Thanks in advance. .....ron Ron ElderCalgary, AB from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue Sep 19 10:23:08 2000 e8JFN8G03389 Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:18:35 -0500 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re[2]: reaming a grip I made up an 18" tapered hex section about the diameter of an average butt section at its largest end. I didn't have an old broken rod or butt section so I just planed out a short section just like I was making a rod. I then coated it with glue and rolled it in grit to make a tapered hex file. It doesn't make a perfect hex hole but it is close enough and you can feel the hex rod lock into the hex hole in the grip. Fairly satisfactory.FWIW.Jon McAnulty Tony Young wrote: I chuck a length of booker thread rod in the lathe and feed the finished handle onto it.Keep a tight grip and feed it very slowly onto the turning threaded rod and the thread reames the handle.Don't ream it right through so the end you see (winding check end) will be a tight fit not needing a winding check unles you want to use one.Takes about 5 mins to do the job. Tony At 10:03 AM 9/19/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote: What kind of reamer do you use to fit a cork grip to your rod? I'vetried using a sharpened piece of copper tube in a drill press as a punch to get the rings to size, one by one, but that was time-consuming andunsatisfactory since the holes did not all line up exactly upon gluing the rings together, despite my efforts to center them in the press. /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Thirty spokes will converge In the hub of a wheel;But the use of the cartWill depend on the partOf the hub that is void. So advantage is had from whatever is there;But usefulness arises from whatever is not. Tao Te Ching /**************************************************************************/ from teekay35@interlynx.net Tue Sep 19 12:07:49 2000