07:58:17 PDT Subject: Re: Cane softens at what temp? frank, i have found out when i cook my bamboo that at8 min in my oven at 350 the strips are not relaxed butare at 12 minutes. timothy --- Frank Stetzer wrote:Has anyone ever figured out the actual temperaturethat cane needsto be heated to, for straightening strips, pressingnodes etc? ......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerfulcomrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than awaterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman'sLuck", 1899. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Thu Oct 12 09:59:45 2000 e9CExiG02526 Subject: RE: Fatherly Sayings What a great idea for a thread. My father is a retired aerospace engineer. His job often included visits tovarious testing ranges for product trials. Once he was at White Plainstesting a missile guidance system installed in a Cessna for early trials.One thing after another went wrong. The engineers and technicians fixedeachproblem, but when all known flaws were corrected it still didn't work. Theengineers agreed it must have been a random failure and went off to havelunch. Later that day they went up again and it worked. As the testerstriumphantlydescribed their success my father suggested that it was probably just arandom success. Their response was not recorded. Now whenever anything goes well I think to myself, "Another randomsuccess....." In case you think this is off the subject of bamboo rods, Ishould tell you that my first rod turned out very well. Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Timothy, Now there is a statement worth responding to. I have refrained from mymany opinions and slants on the previously laborious topic of thedownload, but I believe that we could start another list of what ourfathers used to say. I will commit to memory your contribution, I likeit. My dad used to have many one liners that he resorted to from time totime, but the one that comes to mind always followed someone saying "Iwish....". Dad would advise them to "Crap in one hand and wish in theother, and see which one fills up the fastest". timothy troester wrote: --- Tony Young wrote:I can't say I completely understand this whole dealbut the verse is prettygood. Tony yes tony, i think we're missing part of the storyhere. my dad had a saying,"a man has two reasons fordoing anything and he'll tell you one of them."timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Oct 12 10:04:14 2000 e9CF4BG02870 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:04:03 +0800 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:04:01 +0800 Subject: Re: Thank you You forgot to mention the smell....or is that just me??? Tony At 07:45 AM 10/12/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:But there is onething I have to blameyou all for: None of you guys warned me of gettinghooked to buildingsplit cane rods. Whenever I have the time I sneak tomy shop and work onbamboo strips, ferrules and so on. Guess who is notvery happy with that well..welcome to the crowd. it's all down hill fromhere. before long you'll be smokin' cigars, mutterin'to yourself and droolin' whiskey down your chin....andif you work it right she'll order you to your shop tilyou can learn to behave in polite society. after awhile you'll have a cot in the shed and come back tothe house once a day for a meal. your neigbors willshun you and small children will flee screaming at thesite of you. so far, i can only speculate as to whathappens after this. :-) timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'll tell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ from Canerods@aol.com Thu Oct 12 10:28:28 2000 e9CFSSG03914 Subject: Re: Mags, Rods and such e9CFSSG03915 In a message dated 10/11/00 11:40:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ajthramer@hotmail.com writes: AJ, I, for one, enjoy each and every one of your once and awhile rants. When I first rediscovered fly fishing (Note: this does not imply that I discovered fly fishing - ô la Al Gore's internet invention) I had nothing to use but my dad's old fiberglass Wonderod and the Japanese "GI" bamboo rod I brought back from my Viet Nam WestPac tour. That glass rod sucked, a white radio antenna and heavy as sin, needed a 8 wt line. But the el cheapo bamboo was fun to cast and was my rod of choiceuntil I could afford one of those "real" rods - those $400 graphite's that was on every page of the FFing mag's. So on a visit back to my wife's hometown of Allentown, PA I made a beelineto the Dale Clemens rod making shop and bought a nice looking 9' 5 wt close-out graphite blank for next to nothing. As sson as I got home I wrapped my first "real" rod. It must be a G. Loomis blank in hiding, it weights next to nothing, and won't load a 5 wt line worth a $hit, in my mind. The last time I fish it, (several years ago) it was with a 8 wt. line. How could my "real" rod suck so much, I wondered? Must have beensomething I did wrong. So I bought a big bucks graphite and found that I thought it sucked too. About this time. my dad figured that he'd never get to go FF'ing ever again, twin knee joint replacements made it so that he couldn't get around muchand at 80 years old he past over his old 9' Montague Sunbeams. (3 of them) All suffering from years of use and abuse. But I could cast them even though they needed lots of restoration. So I learned how to restore bamboo rods. Made one into a 7' banty rod and I liked casting them. So I was hoooked on bamboo. I still remember the first Heddon bamboo rod I bought, from list subscriber Mike Stevens, and how sweet it looked, campared to those old Sunbeams, and how much nicer it cast a line than anything I owned. So when I showed up that year at a float tubing outing on a local lake with the FF club, I'm the "crazy" with the bamboo rod. But now several years later, other fellows have pulled their bamboo rodsback out of the closet, or have purchased one, and are fishing them too. Back in late 1998 the club was willing to have me order a Chris McDowell rod for their Sep't 1999 fund raiser/BBQ picnic and it brought in lots of dollars for the club. I figured that was a one time deal. But in the spring of this year, I was asked to get another bamboo rod for the 2000 BBQ. Too late to order one from Chris and so the club is looking forward to 2001 for the next rod. Meanwhile, I plan on having a couple of decent bamboo rods on hand as loaner rods for the club's next open-and-free-to-the-public casting class next spring. I want to see how many of our FFF-rated instructors will try one out. I know "Moss", famous for his Eastern Sierra fly fishing expertise, defends fishing nothing but his old slow-action fiberglass rods - because he feels graphites don't load properly. It will be interesting to see if he'd likes casting a nice McDowell 5 wt? bamboo rod. So please do write that article, I for one would love to read it. End of my rant!!!! Don B. PS - Personally, I tend to run on all the time, except when I get to do some rod restoration work - must be that the fumes from the acetone, MEK and alcohol quiet me down. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Oct 12 10:46:25 2000 e9CFkMG04822 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:46:18 +0800 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:46:07 +0800 Subject: Re: Thank you Between that, the anti social behavour endemic to all bamboo rodmakers tonon makers, the swarf and shavings I'm always covered in, the used bandaids on the bathroom hand basin *and* she knows what I'm like I'm lucky I'mallowed inside even if it is just to change lightbulbs :-) Don't knock sleeping on the workbench till you try it. Tony At 07:49 AM 10/12/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:tony, is that why they say you're living in the shedout back of the house? :-) timothy --- Tony Young wrote:I must confess when it comes to the wife detartmentI'm saddled with onewho understands me. :-) Tony At 02:17 AM 10/12/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:Ralf,The wife dilemma is universal... except for inmy situation. As muchtime as I've spent in the shop in the past decade(actually more, but don'twant to give away my age... LOL), I have managed to"run off" two wives!So, now, the only one that gets lonely when I am inthe shop planing onstrips is my dog, and if she gets too lonely,she'll just come out and layunder the workbench while I plane. I never couldget either of my wives tolay under the workbench! If ever I marry again, Ithink it will have to beto a lady that loves flyfishing, loves bamboo, andowns her own planingforms... well, a sizable inheritance wouldn't hurteither! Later,Bob /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'lltell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'll tell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ from grau@buchlang.com Thu Oct 12 11:07:21 2000 e9CG7KG05730 Organization: Lang Info Access "rod 'akers" Subject: Re: Thank you Well, to talk with you american guys - here in Switzerland the Fishing Tacklestores claims that the carbon-rod market is definitive "dead". Each year newrods ( or the same rods with new names, made in the same fabrics butsigned withdifferend brands), and the wholesale-people could only buy the rods from theagents if they take each 50 pcs ore more. So most stores havge the cavefull of"old" sticks, and in the stores always the "news". We have more and morestoresgiving up her business......Otherwise we have fishermen wanting "her" rod - rods for fishing here in ourwaters, mostly small, in the high mountains with native and small trouts.Moreand more swiss anglers are no more interested in carbon rods made forgreatwestern streams, they like more a 2 or 3 weight line than a big 8 weighttomato-stick. But more global acting brands, less satisfied tackle users.. Regards Stefan Tony Young schrieb: Between that, the anti social behavour endemic to all bamboo rodmakers tonon makers, the swarf and shavings I'm always covered in, the used bandaids on the bathroom hand basin *and* she knows what I'm like I'm lucky I'mallowed inside even if it is just to change lightbulbs :-)Don't knock sleeping on the workbench till you try it. Tony At 07:49 AM 10/12/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:tony, is that why they say you're living in the shedout back of the house? :-) timothy --- Tony Young wrote:I must confess when it comes to the wife detartmentI'm saddled with onewho understands me. :-) Tony At 02:17 AM 10/12/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:Ralf,The wife dilemma is universal... except for inmy situation. As muchtime as I've spent in the shop in the past decade(actually more, but don'twant to give away my age... LOL), I have managed to"run off" two wives!So, now, the only one that gets lonely when I am inthe shop planing onstrips is my dog, and if she gets too lonely,she'll just come out and layunder the workbench while I plane. I never couldget either of my wives tolay under the workbench! If ever I marry again, Ithink it will have to beto a lady that loves flyfishing, loves bamboo, andowns her own planingforms... well, a sizable inheritance wouldn't hurteither! Later,Bob /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'lltell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'll tell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ --Stefan GrauLang InfoAccessDatenbanken/Multimedia-Internet-EDV- AusbildungenMuenzgraben 2-43000 Bern 9 Lang InfoAccess ist eine Gesch€ftseinheitIhrer Buchhandlung Lang - ein Unternehmen derHogrefe-Huber Gruppe. Mehr Infos unter:http://www.buchlang.com/infoaccess/http://www.buchlang.com/kurse/http://www.hogrefe.de/verlag/gruppe.html Tel: (0041)(0)31 310 84 84Fax: (0)31 310 84 91Mo-Sa, ausgenommen Mittwoch. Disclaimer: Saemtliche mit diesem Mail versandten Informationensind fèr den/die Empf€nger/in bestimmt, welche/r in der Adresszeileaufgefèhrtwird. Sollten Sie aus irgendwelchen Grènden nicht mit diesen Adressatenèbereinstimmen,so bitten wir Sie um Bekanntgabe. Zudem ist dieses Mail umgehend zulåschen.S€mtliche in diesem Mail enthaltenen Informationen unterliegen im UebrigenSchweizerischem Datenschutzrecht. from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu Oct 12 11:12:04 2000 e9CGC3G06011 Subject: Hidden Treasures Took another break from drawfiling last night (y'all warned me it wastedious, and you were right) to work on two restoration/rebuildprojects. One rod is my sis-in-law's grandpa's rod. He obviouslyfished it often and hard. Thanks to some list members help, I concludedit is most likely a cheap, turn of the century Chubb, that was given newguides and another coat of varnish somewhere along the line. This rodwas about as ugly as one can imagine. Corners rounded, glue lines, acouple of small fractures, badly wrapped and varnished. Upon strippingthe varnish I discoverd the maker had never even removed the enamel fromthe cane!! Upon scraping and sanding off the enamel I discovered afairly well-built rod. Glue lines visible in just two places, thesanding sharpened up the corners a lot, the turning at the ferrulestations was done pretty well and showed good work once all the gunk wasremoved, and since it needed scraping anyway, I was able to remove thefile marks that had been left on all the nodes by the original maker.This rod is really a hidden treasure, but it raised a couple ofquestions. Does removal of the enamel change the action of the rod? I'm not reallysure how much I scraped off to get down to a clean surface, but it was alot of varnish and not a whole lot of cane. What effect do you thinkthis will have. Does anyone know of any makers that intentionally sold unfinished rods(by unfinished I mean the enamel, the file marks on the nodes). Doesthis help identify the rod at all? TIA from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Thu Oct 12 11:26:03 2000 e9CGQ2G07058 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:25:58 -0400 12 Oct 2000 12:25:44 -0400 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: Hidden Treasures Jim, I refinished a rod for a fella in Nebraska back in my corn days. When he first brought it in, I thought - "Man is that a yellow rod". Then Ilook at it, and behold a still in the bark rod. It was a nine footer threepiece six weight rod. It had an action similar to a heddon #17, meaning itcast a nice line. The rod had no markings on it. Plain Jane as they come. I believe it wasoriginal. I just rewrapped the guides (most of them had mono home rewraps)and put an invisible wrap on the tip. The fella still uses the rod with thebark on it. The fella and his fishing partner are quite the pair - oneusing a Paul Young and the other using a rod with the bark still on it. Alberta Al -----Original Message----- Subject: Hidden Treasures Took another break from drawfiling last night (y'all warned me it wastedious, and you were right) to work on two restoration/rebuildprojects. One rod is my sis-in-law's grandpa's rod. He obviouslyfished it often and hard. Thanks to some list members help, I concludedit is most likely a cheap, turn of the century Chubb, that was given newguides and another coat of varnish somewhere along the line. This rodwas about as ugly as one can imagine. Corners rounded, glue lines, acouple of small fractures, badly wrapped and varnished. Upon strippingthe varnish I discoverd the maker had never even removed the enamel fromthe cane!! Upon scraping and sanding off the enamel I discovered afairly well-built rod. Glue lines visible in just two places, thesanding sharpened up the corners a lot, the turning at the ferrulestations was done pretty well and showed good work once all the gunk wasremoved, and since it needed scraping anyway, I was able to remove thefile marks that had been left on all the nodes by the original maker.This rod is really a hidden treasure, but it raised a couple ofquestions. Does removal of the enamel change the action of the rod? I'm not reallysure how much I scraped off to get down to a clean surface, but it was alot of varnish and not a whole lot of cane. What effect do you thinkthis will have. Does anyone know of any makers that intentionally sold unfinished rods(by unfinished I mean the enamel, the file marks on the nodes). Doesthis help identify the rod at all? TIA from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Oct 12 12:24:10 2000 e9CHO9G09296 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:25:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures James,I had such a rod shown to me last year. The way you described this rod theycould be twins. The owner is keeping it just as it is, he claims it is wortha lot of money. I just kept my mouth shut.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com James wrote: Took another break from drawfiling last night (y'all warned me it wastedious, and you were right) to work on two restoration/rebuildprojects. One rod is my sis-in-law's grandpa's rod. He obviouslyfished it often and hard. Thanks to some list members help, I concludedit is most likely a cheap, turn of the century Chubb, that was given newguides and another coat of varnish somewhere along the line. This rodwas about as ugly as one can imagine. Corners rounded, glue lines, acouple of small fractures, badly wrapped and varnished. Upon strippingthe varnish I discoverd the maker had never even removed the enamelfromthe cane!! Upon scraping and sanding off the enamel I discovered afairly well-built rod. Glue lines visible in just two places, thesanding sharpened up the corners a lot, the turning at the ferrulestations was done pretty well and showed good work once all the gunk wasremoved, and since it needed scraping anyway, I was able to remove thefile marks that had been left on all the nodes by the original maker.This rod is really a hidden treasure, but it raised a couple ofquestions. Does removal of the enamel change the action of the rod? I'm not reallysure how much I scraped off to get down to a clean surface, but it was alot of varnish and not a whole lot of cane. What effect do you thinkthis will have. Does anyone know of any makers that intentionally sold unfinished rods(by unfinished I mean the enamel, the file marks on the nodes). Doesthis help identify the rod at all? TIA from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Thu Oct 12 12:30:18 2000 e9CHUGG09563 NAA03875; Subject: Re: Thank you When I first married, SWMBO was a little possessive of my time but after 30something years of marriage, I guess she has decided I am incurable. Besides, she likes to fish too. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de wrote:Hello list, thank you all for the informations on rod building, especially on guidespacing (Special thanks to Art Port, Larry Blan, Tom Bowden, PatrickCoffey, Danny Twang and Nobler). But there is one thing I have to blameyou all for: None of you guys warned me of getting hooked to buildingsplit cane rods. Whenever I have the time I sneak to my shop and work onbamboo strips, ferrules and so on. Guess who is not very happy with that- my dear beloved wife. Unfortunately she doesn't either care forfishing or eating fish. So each time I return from a frustrating fishingtrip with zero fish in my basket, she is more than happy, because shewon't have to deal with the smelly stuff (that's what she calls them).But the poor fellow I am is really proud and happy to be part of thislist, among the finest experts on rod building from the USA, Canada,Australia, Europe and the rest of the world. Gut Span (means: Successful planing, my regards to Stefan Grau fromSwitzerland) your poor fellow from Germany Ralf from caneman@clnk.com Thu Oct 12 12:55:25 2000 e9CHtOG10456 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures James,I have seen a few rods with the enamel still on them go through theshop. Two of the ones I saw were Union Hardware rods (can't remember whomade UH, but someone on the list will know). These were production rods,put out pretty fast, and probably the low end of the production line, butthat doesn't mean they won't be great casting rods, just means they wereputout as fast as they could be produced, with little attention toappearance... and yep, sometimes some pretty awful glue lines...As for whether removing the enamel will affect the action. I don'tthink so, just don't go "too deep". Of course there are different schoolsof thought on this, but I try to remove only the enamel so that the powerfibers can be exposed. Actually, it's just aesthetics, but, to me, that'san important part of having a nice cane rod, is having a pretty cane rod. Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Hidden Treasures Took another break from drawfiling last night (y'all warned me it wastedious, and you were right) to work on two restoration/rebuildprojects. One rod is my sis-in-law's grandpa's rod. He obviouslyfished it often and hard. Thanks to some list members help, I concludedit is most likely a cheap, turn of the century Chubb, that was given newguides and another coat of varnish somewhere along the line. This rodwas about as ugly as one can imagine. Corners rounded, glue lines, acouple of small fractures, badly wrapped and varnished. Upon strippingthe varnish I discoverd the maker had never even removed the enamel fromthe cane!! Upon scraping and sanding off the enamel I discovered afairly well-built rod. Glue lines visible in just two places, thesanding sharpened up the corners a lot, the turning at the ferrulestations was done pretty well and showed good work once all the gunk wasremoved, and since it needed scraping anyway, I was able to remove thefile marks that had been left on all the nodes by the original maker.This rod is really a hidden treasure, but it raised a couple ofquestions. Does removal of the enamel change the action of the rod? I'm not reallysure how much I scraped off to get down to a clean surface, but it was alot of varnish and not a whole lot of cane. What effect do you thinkthis will have. Does anyone know of any makers that intentionally sold unfinished rods(by unfinished I mean the enamel, the file marks on the nodes). Doesthis help identify the rod at all? TIA from rmoon@ida.net Thu Oct 12 13:25:58 2000 e9CIPvG11641 Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures I tend to agree with Bob. The enamel does have some weight, and I amsure contributes to the action, but I would guess it is quitenegligible. I'd remove it. Incidentally Bob, I think I have discoveredthe color preserver to end all others. I am still doing some tests, butI think it got me out of the problems with the jasper thread. I willlet you know laterRalph from edriddle@mindspring.com Thu Oct 12 13:41:39 2000 e9CIfcG12341 Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures James & Bob, et. al: According to a Heddon "private brand list", dated 1937, reprinted in M.Sinclair's "Heddon" book (pgs. 176 - 178); they made rods labeled for manyfirms including Union Hardware & Metal, Co. - Connecticut. This isn't tosay that Union relied solely on Heddon for their fly rods, I don't know.The referenced list includes rod names for many firms, but none listed forUnion. As a rule, rods manufactured for others didn't measure up in qualityto those sold with the own mfg'ers label, so I've read. I know this doesn't Regards,Ed-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures James,I have seen a few rods with the enamel still on them go through theshop. Two of the ones I saw were Union Hardware rods (can't rememberwhomade UH, but someone on the list will know). These were production rods,put out pretty fast, and probably the low end of the production line, but Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: James Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:05 AMSubject: Hidden Treasures Does anyone know of any makers that intentionally sold unfinished rods(by unfinished I mean the enamel, the file marks on the nodes). Doesthis help identify the rod at all? TIA from RHOLDER@SMURFIT.COM Thu Oct 12 14:47:16 2000 e9CJlFG15299 Subject: Devcon Flexane 80 Fellow Rod builders. I have a general question for anybody that has herd of a product fromDevconcalled Flexane 80. This castable, non-shrinking, medium viscosity urethanecompound is used all the time at my work for bounding metal rings together.I was wondering if anyone has used this semi-rigid, flexible, waterproof,rubber compound to glue the strips can together. Any comments would behelpful. Thanks. Robert H. from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Thu Oct 12 15:48:13 2000 e9CKm8G17646 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:46:39 +0000 Subject: Re: Devcon Flexane 80 Bob,The only experience I have had with flexane was several years ago when Iused it in some sea water corrosion tests ......after several months insubmerged seawater saturated with hydrogen sulphide the stuff totallychanged properties........I would forget the thought of using it andstick with traditional adhesives.......Paul "Holder, Robert" wrote: Fellow Rod builders. I have a general question for anybody that has herd of a product fromDevconcalled Flexane 80. This castable, non-shrinking, medium viscosityurethanecompound is used all the time at my work for bounding metal ringstogether.I was wondering if anyone has used this semi-rigid, flexible, waterproof,rubber compound to glue the strips can together. Any comments would behelpful. Thanks. Robert H. from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Oct 12 15:59:17 2000 e9CKxGG18259 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:22:34 -0700 Subject: Enamel and sharp hexagons e9CKxGG18260 I think most of us flatten the enamel side of our strips prior to final planing. I wonder how much power fiber material we're removing particularly in thebutt strips. In order to flatten a concave strip we have to remove morethen just the enamel to arrive at flatness and sharp hexagons. One of you engineer/mathematicians probably has a formula based on culmcircumference related to strip width. The smaller the culm circumferencethe more material that must be removed to arrive at flatness. Doublejeopardy. Already shallower power fibers that have to be ground even moreto get the flat strips. I guess it's still a case by case situation with bamboo being natural andtherefore varied some, and we can't always assume larger culms havedeeper power fibers. Use the good stuff for parabolic rods that will havemore stress in the base of the rod and the smaller culms for fast actionrods with lower stress in the base. Chris from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu Oct 12 16:13:25 2000 e9CLDOG18825 OAA23295 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study on this and what he told us atcorbette lake is that you don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of power fibers. He wasworking in conjunction with I think a physics professor from one of the majoruniversities in California and the Dr. showed a slid projection of what he hadfound so far and Bob said he would be publishing his findings sometime thisyear. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 12:22 PM Subject: Enamel and sharp hexagons I think most of us flatten the enamel side of our strips prior to finalplaning. I wonder how much power fiber material we're removing particularlyin the butt strips. In order to flatten a concave strip we have to removemore then just the enamel to arrive at flatness and sharp hexagons. One of you engineer/mathematicians probably has a formula based on culmcircumference related to strip width. The smaller the culm circumferencethe more material that must be removed to arrive at flatness. Doublejeopardy. Already shallower power fibers that have to be ground even moreto get the flat strips. I guess it's still a case by case situation with bamboo being natural andtherefore varied some, and we can't always assume larger culms havedeeper power fibers. Use the good stuff for parabolic rods that will havemore stress in the base of the rod and the smaller culms for fast actionrods with lower stress in the base. Chris from newmin@ptdprolog.net Thu Oct 12 16:17:23 2000 e9CLHMG19017 Subject: straightening This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C03470.DBDDC6A0 Hello Guys, I've been lurking for a while and have a question: Any =hints or tips on straightening my glued blanks. They are coming off the =binder pretty straight, its just the last bit of tweeking that has me =baffled. Other than patience is there any tricks that I should know? =Watching this list has been a lot of help. thanks in advanceNewmin ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C03470.DBDDC6A0 coming off the binder pretty straight, its just the last bit of tweeking = advanceNewmin ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C03470.DBDDC6A0-- from rafick@3riversweb.net Thu Oct 12 16:24:12 2000 e9CLOBG19369 Subject: cork rich ? Would anyone on rodmakers be interested in trading really good cork for a2/2 3wt. blank, I have a number of 6'6" 3wts glued up and could part withone.Still in glue and binding cord, will need 11/64 ferrule, and finished out If interested email off list. RA R.A.Fick Bamboo Fly RodsThe best rods are being made today.www.angelfire.com/in2/rafickrods from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Oct 12 17:20:02 2000 e9CMK1G22211 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 17:19:57 -0500 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures The Union Hardware rod I have, has Montague type ferrules, and looks likemed. quality Monty. GMA from darrell@rockclimbing.org Thu Oct 12 17:33:36 2000 e9CMXZG22817 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: Bishop Rodmakers Gathering - This weekend! - Walt Powell The gathering is a go! If you planned to go and need directions, please visitwww.vfish.net/gwbishop.htm, subscribe to the newsletter on that page andthen you can visit the message archives and get the directions to ChuckIrvines house where festivities begin Friday night. MAJOR BUMMER -- Walton Powell, our featured speaker, called this morningand due to unexpected and unforeseen circumstances, he cannot attend ourgathering. However, the show will go on! We will have demos on the Morgan Hand Mill, JW Beveller, Bellinger Binder,How to Scarf a tip and many more interesting demos. Also, Saturday nite willhave a professional flyfishing guide from Bishop will give us some tips infishing the Bishop streams and lakes in the area. The registration fee will not be required now. Any questions, contact Darrell Lee or Chuck Irvine. Chuck's number is760- 387-0033 in Bishop. See ya, Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from horsesho@ptd.net Thu Oct 12 18:36:42 2000 e9CNafG24416 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: straightening Newmin wrote: Hello Guys, I've been lurking for a while and have a question: Anyhints or tips on straightening my glued blanks. They are coming offthe binder pretty straight, its just the last bit of tweeking that hasme baffled. Other than patience is there any tricks that I shouldknow? Watching this list has been a lot of help. thanks in advanceNewminHeat straightening works best over a heat gun using your bare hands.This way you can make sure the rod doesn't get too hot. If it's too hotto hold it's too hot. First take out any twists than sight the blank andmark the flat with a pencil at the bend. Roll it over the heat andreverse bend it slightly . Hold it 10 seconds and sight it again. Repeatif nesesary. Work slowly until it's as "straight as a redneck on aKeywest vacation" Marty from marcdupuis@home.com Thu Oct 12 19:03:16 2000 e9D03GG25209 0700 Organization: @Home Network Member Subject: Yet again guide spacing Hello all, I'm just reading "Somewhere Down the Crazy River" by Paul Boote andJeremy Wade, about Mahseer fishing in India and Goliath tigerfishfishing in Africa. Good book, but at one point Paul builds rods (plasticones, I think) to earn a living and allow him to fish in strange places. Upon starting to build rods as a business Paul was told by a friend: "It will stop you from going fishing, Paul. And wreck all the enjoymentwhen you do. Three years from now you'll be playing golf!" Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building plasticand not cane? Marc from Canerods@aol.com Thu Oct 12 19:05:53 2000 e9D05qG25406 Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures In a message dated 10/12/00 9:13:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,jmpio@nhbm.com writes: Lots of Japanese rods had file marks. Some of the earlier Montagues thatI've seen were round because they were matching greenheart wood rod look. Sothe enamel would be a clue to old age and the file marks would represent a botton-end for quality. The ferrules and reelseat would be the best clue as to brand. Union Hardware bought rods from Montague, H-I and just about anyone that could make them. There was a lot of companies that were bought and sold too. At one point Winchester sold their rod division to H-I and gave H-I rights to use the Winchester name. I get a kick out of eBay bidders paying big bucks But I guess it's not any funnier than the big bucks that a Young labeled, yet Heddon made, rod will sell for with the should know better collectors! All IMHO, Don B. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Oct 12 19:27:27 2000 e9D0RRG26029 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 17:27:12 -0700 Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Marc,I can't say that I've experienced quite the same thing, but I havedecided to cut back on my rodmaking next year. Like many of the guys onthis list, I'm a part timer. I have a real job that, despite what some ofyou say :-), keeps me busy 40-60 hours each week. I've built 10 rods in thepast year, only one of which was for me. The others were either sold orgiven away. That's too many rods for a guy who only gets 10-20 hours perweek in the shop.Something has to suffer. For me, it's been my fishing time. Other thana two-week trip to Alaska, I've been in cold water less than ten times thisyear. In fact, this past weekend I did a demo on rod-building, and wasterribly jealous of my friends, (including a couple of list-members!) whowere able to spend a significant amount of that time fishing.I've just about quit playing golf, and I used to be fairly good at it (4handicap). Next year, I'm going to hand off some of the SRGresponsibilities, and limit myself to 8 rods, at least three of which staywith me! Harry Marc Dupuis wrote: ...... Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building plasticand not cane? --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from caneman@clnk.com Thu Oct 12 19:51:11 2000 e9D0pAG26605 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:44:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C03485.34EE48A0 Well, got to put in my 2 cents worth on this one... Rodmaking full =time will get to you from time to time... I haven't been able to travel =and fish like I could in the 80's, there aren't many slow days when I =can just sit around and enjoy a pot of coffee on the front porch, and =when it gets hectic in that shop, sometimes I just want to throw up my =hands and have a big ass bamboo bonfire, using my planing forms as a =poker, and my silk thread as kindling... but then again, when it gets =reallybad, I can walk away for a couple of days, or sometime only a few =hours, and think about WHY I do what I do... I do it because I love to =work with my hands, I love flyfishing, I love bamboo rods, and I'm =addicted to the URAC and varnish fumes *S*. Yes, sometimes it gets =frustrating, and sometimes I get so snowed under that I don't think I'll =ever plane my way out, and if I do, I'm worried about finding my way out =of the shavings, but for me, it only takes a short time of reflection = Oh, and Harry... I didn't get to do ANY fishing at the Southern... a =lot of casting in the casting pools, and a lot of watching others cast =and answering questions, but not one line dropped in trout waters, so I =join you in your envy of those who had time to wet a line in the White =or NorthFork. I understand the trout were jumping out of the water on =the North Fork screaming "CATCH ME! CATCH ME!" Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Marc,I can't say that I've experienced quite the same thing, but I havedecided to cut back on my rodmaking next year. Like many of the guys =onthis list, I'm a part timer. I have a real job that, despite what some =ofyou say :-), keeps me busy 40-60 hours each week. I've built 10 rods =in thepast year, only one of which was for me. The others were either sold =orgiven away. That's too many rods for a guy who only gets 10-20 hours =perweek in the shop.Something has to suffer. For me, it's been my fishing time. Other =thana two-week trip to Alaska, I've been in cold water less than ten times =thisyear. In fact, this past weekend I did a demo on rod-building, and wasterribly jealous of my friends, (including a couple of list-members!) =whowere able to spend a significant amount of that time fishing.I've just about quit playing golf, and I used to be fairly good at =it (4handicap). Next year, I'm going to hand off some of the SRGresponsibilities, and limit myself to 8 rods, at least three of which =staywith me! Harry Marc Dupuis wrote: ...... Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help =me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building =plasticand not cane? --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C03485.34EE48A0 Rodmaking full time will get to you from time to time... I haven't been = travel and fish like I could in the 80's, there aren't many slow days = just sit around and enjoy a pot of coffee on the front porch, and when = hectic in that shop, sometimes I just want to throw up my hands and have = ass bamboo bonfire, using my planing forms as a poker, and my silk = kindling... but then again, when it gets really bad, I can walk away for = couple of days, or sometime only a few hours, and think about WHY I do = do... I do it because I love to work with my hands, I love flyfishing, I = bamboo rods, and I'm addicted tothe = so snowed under that I don't think I'll ever plane my way out, and if I = worried about finding my way out of the shavings, but for me, it only = short time of reflection for the dying embers to grow back into a raging = fire... Southern... a lot of casting in the casting pools, and a lot of watching = cast and answering questions, but not one line dropped in trout waters, = join you in your envy of those who had time to wet a line in the White = NorthFork. I understand the trout were jumping out of the water on the = Fork screaming "CATCH ME! CATCH ME!" Bob-----Original Message-----From: = marcdupuis@home.com rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= can't = client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, = ------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C03485.34EE48A0-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Oct 12 20:30:53 2000 e9D1UqG27963 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 12 Oct 2000 17:16:32 -0700 Subject: Re: Hidden Treasures e9D1UqG27964 I've seen enamel on an early Vomhoffe rod (not sure who made these),Horrocks Ibbotsen rods, a c. 1915 "TipTop" label (looks like Montagueferrules) and many of the hardware store 1900-1930 rods with the formfitted cases. Chris from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Thu Oct 12 22:10:06 2000 e9D3A3G00016 Mail VirusWall NT); Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:07:21 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) timothy troester Subject: RE: Thank you Tony,I know you don't mind sleeping on the workbench but, as I keeptelling you, if you don't remember to turn all the power tools off first,you'll end up doing yourself serious harm. God, you might even damage yourdrinking arm.I'll come over with a few dozen beers on the weekend and see if Ican negotiate some house entry conditions for you. I'm pretty confident wecan have you sleeping in the lounge room within the next few weeks anddepending on how negotiations progress, who knows, you might even get toexperience a real mattress before Christmas : ) Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Thank you Between that, the anti social behavour endemic to all bamboo rodmakers tonon makers, the swarf and shavings I'm always covered in, the used bandaids on the bathroom hand basin *and* she knows what I'm like I'm lucky I'mallowed inside even if it is just to change lightbulbs :-) Don't knock sleeping on the workbench till you try it. Tony At 07:49 AM 10/12/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:tony, is that why they say you're living in the shedout back of the house? :-) timothy --- Tony Young wrote:I must confess when it comes to the wife detartmentI'm saddled with onewho understands me. :-) Tony At 02:17 AM 10/12/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:Ralf,The wife dilemma is universal... except for inmy situation. As muchtime as I've spent in the shop in the past decade(actually more, but don'twant to give away my age... LOL), I have managed to"run off" two wives!So, now, the only one that gets lonely when I am inthe shop planing onstrips is my dog, and if she gets too lonely,she'll just come out and layunder the workbench while I plane. I never couldget either of my wives tolay under the workbench! If ever I marry again, Ithink it will have to beto a lady that loves flyfishing, loves bamboo, andowns her own planingforms... well, a sizable inheritance wouldn't hurteither! Later,Bob /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'lltell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'll tell you one of them." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Oct 12 22:11:46 2000 e9D3BjG00159 20:11:44 PDT Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or how did hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make? timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study onthis and what he told us at corbette lake is thatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of powerfibers. He was working in conjunction with I think a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from channer1@rmi.net Thu Oct 12 22:44:31 2000 e9D3iUG00960 Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Marc;It doesn't matter what kind of rods you build, you have to at least notmind, if not actually like, the b.s. with the customers. A harse trainerI used to work for always used to say" this would be a damn goodbusiness if it weren't for the customers" I think it applies to everybusiness.John Marc Dupuis wrote: Hello all, I'm just reading "Somewhere Down the Crazy River" by Paul Boote andJeremy Wade, about Mahseer fishing in India and Goliath tigerfishfishing in Africa. Good book, but at one point Paul builds rods (plasticones, I think) to earn a living and allow him to fish in strange places. Upon starting to build rods as a business Paul was told by a friend: "It will stop you from going fishing, Paul. And wreck all the enjoymentwhen you do. Three years from now you'll be playing golf!" Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building plasticand not cane? Marc from channer1@rmi.net Thu Oct 12 22:48:49 2000 e9D3mmG01177 Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Harry;I make about 8 rods a year, mostly consignment sold, a few orders, and Itell folks they take 3 months. That way i just work on them for a anhour or 2 when I get home and in the early morning when I'm up anyway onthe 1 weekend day i don't go fishing. Doesn't it say in the Good Booksomeplace that "on the 7th day, He went fishing"?John Harry Boyd wrote: Marc,I can't say that I've experienced quite the same thing, but I havedecided to cut back on my rodmaking next year. Like many of the guys onthis list, I'm a part timer. I have a real job that, despite what some ofyou say :-), keeps me busy 40-60 hours each week. I've built 10 rods inthepast year, only one of which was for me. The others were either sold orgiven away. That's too many rods for a guy who only gets 10-20 hours perweek in the shop.Something has to suffer. For me, it's been my fishing time. Other thana two-week trip to Alaska, I've been in cold water less than ten times thisyear. In fact, this past weekend I did a demo on rod-building, and wasterribly jealous of my friends, (including a couple of list-members!) whowere able to spend a significant amount of that time fishing.I've just about quit playing golf, and I used to be fairly good at it (4handicap). Next year, I'm going to hand off some of the SRGresponsibilities, and limit myself to 8 rods, at least three of which staywith me! Harry Marc Dupuis wrote: ...... Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building plasticand not cane? --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from marcdupuis@home.com Thu Oct 12 22:54:18 2000 e9D3sHG01407 0700 Organization: @Home Network Member Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Thanks Harry and Bob on your insights. I'm impressed a person can build ten rods a year part time, Harry. Youmust love it enough to continue, even if you need to be more 'selfish'and keep more than one rod next year, and get out and do some of thoseother things you like. Beyond that I can't comment on building full time- if I can get my gear in order and build one rod this winter, I'll bemore than pleased. Besides, some days there's more traffic on this list than at FF@. I'mgoing to have to start filing informative posts in some logical fashionsoon, or start to use the archives. There's SO much here. I see much hasbeen done since the rodbuilding seminar I went to way too long ago. Cheers Marc from saweiss@flash.net Thu Oct 12 23:36:22 2000 e9D4aLG02210 Subject: Fairy Catskill This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C03487.AA62B9C0 Does anyone know anything about the Leonard "Fairy Catskill" rods? =Supposedly, they were made in 9' for 3 & 4 weight lines. I would like to =have a taper to try.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C03487.AA62B9C0 Does anyone know anything aboutthe = "Fairy Catskill" rods? Supposedly, they were made in 9' for 3 & 4 = lines. I would like to have a taper to try.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C03487.AA62B9C0-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Fri Oct 13 01:47:13 2000 e9D6lCG04355 Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:47:03 -0700 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 06:47:03 GMT Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing FILETIME=[65005360:01C034E1] From: Marc Dupuis Subject: Yet again guide spacingDate: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 20:01:31 -0400 Hello all, I'm just reading "Somewhere Down the Crazy River" by Paul Boote andJeremy Wade, about Mahseer fishing in India and Goliath tigerfishfishing in Africa. Good book, but at one point Paul builds rods (plasticones, I think) to earn a living and allow him to fish in strange places. Upon starting to build rods as a business Paul was told by a friend: "It will stop you from going fishing, Paul. And wreck all the enjoymentwhen you do. Three years from now you'll be playing golf!" Five years later, Paul writes: "My business had become a tyranny. If I discussed line-guide spacingswith a client for nearly an hour just one more time, then, so help me, Iwould kill!" Have any of you been so affected? Or is because he was building plasticand not cane? Marc An excellent question! I will admit to thinking at first, "will this accursed thread never die?" but ... I stopped building for commercial purposes about 8-10 yrs ago. Mostly due to what he said. Endless inane questions about the rods that would be fully answered by even the most circumspect perusal of the info that I sent them. Most of it is my own personality quirks, these are the same quirks that let me happily build rods one after another for year after year though. My solution was suggested to me by Len Codella when he was trying to get me to build a few rods for him after I told him what drove me crazy about the rod business. He said that some are the builders and some are the salesmen, why don't you let me handle that end of it for you? Started building again and have never looked back, I sell to about a dozen dealers and I have my life back. Not to say there are no problems or frustrations but it cut them way back. Without their help I would never be able to produce the number of rods I want to,and a short 10 minconversation will yield an order for 5-10-15 rods instead of 3 or 4 hour long conversations about my choice in varnish or indeed what the guide spacing is.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Oct 13 04:52:24 2000 e9D9qMG06529 Subject: Re: Enamel and sharp hexagons Organization: vet Patrick That's a very interesting figure. In the admittedly few rods I have made, Ifind that I have to flatten the enamel strips a bit to make the strips sitflat enough in the forms to make planing accurate and to avoid not exactly"chipping" of the nodes, but sort of dipping of the node areas. I used to do this with a glass block and sandpaper, but now use myLie-Nielsen scraper. I will measure it next time to see how much I remove,at least as accurately as I can measure it. I take enough off that thecolour is lightened (I mostly flame my rods) but not much, over the nodes;and it doesn't seem to me to affect the rod performance at all. It occurs to me that .050 is actually a hell of a lot of cane, and you'dhave to do a lot to cut the nodes back that much. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study on this and what he toldus at corbette lake is that you don't get a dramatic drop in strength tillyou remove 50 thousands from the outer surface of power fibers. He wasworking in conjunction with I think a physics professor from one of themajor universities in California and the Dr. showed a slid projection ofwhat he had found so far and Bob said he would be publishing his findingssometime this year. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 12:22 PM Subject: Enamel and sharp hexagons I think most of us flatten the enamel side of our strips prior to finalplaning. I wonder how much power fiber material we're removing particularlyin the butt strips. In order to flatten a concave strip we have to removemore then just the enamel to arrive at flatness and sharp hexagons. One of you engineer/mathematicians probably has a formula based onculmcircumference related to strip width. The smaller the culm circumferencethe more material that must be removed to arrive at flatness. Doublejeopardy. Already shallower power fibers that have to be ground even moreto get the flat strips. I guess it's still a case by case situation with bamboo being naturaland therefore varied some, and we can't always assume larger culms havedeeper power fibers. Use the good stuff for parabolic rods that will havemore stress in the base of the rod and the smaller culms for fast actionrods with lower stress in the base. Chris from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Oct 13 05:22:47 2000 e9DAMjG06883 Subject: Re: Thank you Organization: vet Someone once said, "I like Kipling",And it sunk in with scarcely a ripple;But all through my life I have wonderedHow the hell do you bloody well "kipple"? And now they say Tony's a VikingWith the great bristling beard that he likes ;But this time I'm asking the question -What on earth does he DO when he "vikes"? Does he play with his beard and look evil,Arousing the terrors within us,Or festoon it with chewed bits of pizzaAnd rinse it with spillings of Guinness; Or does he zoom round in his "longship"Face looking like thunder, but meaner,Firing salvoes of empty wine bottles,The scourge of the trembling marina? But when I think more about TonyThe whole Viking thing sort of mellows -His Danegeld, if ever requiredWould be just the respect of his fellows. Anon (I wish)----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Thank you You forgot to mention the smell....or is that just me??? Tony At 07:45 AM 10/12/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:But there is onething I have to blameyou all for: None of you guys warned me of gettinghooked to buildingsplit cane rods. Whenever I have the time I sneak tomy shop and work onbamboo strips, ferrules and so on. Guess who is notvery happy with that well..welcome to the crowd. it's all down hill fromhere. before long you'll be smokin' cigars, mutterin'to yourself and droolin' whiskey down your chin....andif you work it right she'll order you to your shop tilyou can learn to behave in polite society. after awhile you'll have a cot in the shed and come back tothe house once a day for a meal. your neigbors willshun you and small children will flee screaming at thesite of you. so far, i can only speculate as to whathappens after this. :-) timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html "A man has two reasons for doing anything and he'll tell you one ofthem." Timothy Troester's Dad. /*************************************************************************/ from cfreaner@hq.nasa.gov Fri Oct 13 07:51:53 2000 e9DCprG08515 Subject: Fwd: Attention PC Users - Virus Alert - W95.MTX Subject: Attention PC Users - Virus Alert - W95.MTXFrom: IT Notice Sender: owner-headquarters@lists.hq.nasa.gov This message is being transmitted to all NASA HQ employees.Point of Contact: IntelliCenter, 1-877-706-4407 or 358-HELP (4357)-------------------- --------------------------------------------- ATTENTION PC USERS - VIRUS ALERT - W95.MTX W95.MTX is a destructive virus that propagates using e-mail. Itmodifies Windows executable files, often times beyond repair.This virus appears as an email attachment, with a blank subjectfield. The attachments associated with the email manifestthemselves in several ways by using a variety of file names aslisted below. For those files with .PIF extensions, the .PIFextension may or may not be visible. If you receive an email message that contains an attachment withany of the following file names, DELETE THE MESSAGE from YOUR PCand contact the IntelliCenter, 358-HELP or 1-877-706-4407, toreport this virus incident. I_wanna_see_you.txt.pifMatrix_screen_saver.scrLove_letter_for_you.txt.pifNew_playboy_screen_saver.scrBill_gates_piece.jpg.pifTiazinha.jpg.pifFeiticeira_nua.jpg.pifGeocities_free_sites.txt.pifNew_napster_site.txt.pifMetallica_song.mp3.pifAnti_cih.exeInternet_security_forum.doc.pifAlanis_screen_saver.scrReader_digest_letter.txt.pifWin_$100_now.doc.pifIs_linux_good_enough!.txt.pifQi_test.exeAvp_updates.exeSeicho_no_ie.exeYou_are_fat!.txt.pifFree_xxx_sites.txt.pifI_am_sorry.doc.pifMe_nude.avi.pifSorry_about_yesterday.doc.pifProtect_your_credit.html.pifJimi_hendrix.mp3.pifHanson.scrF___ing_with_dogs.scrMatrix_2_is_out.scrZipped_files.exeBlink_182.mp3.pif We are working with Command AntiVirus for an update to detect anderadicate this virus. If you have any questions or concerns,please contact the IntelliCenter at 358-HELP or 1-877-706-4407. -----------------------------------------------------------------This "IT Notice" is being transmitted by InfoCom,Code CI-3, HQ Information Technology & CommunicationsDivision. For more information on InfoCom services, call202- 358-2299 or 202-358-4817, or visit the InfoCom webpage at http://www.hq.nasa.gov/hq/infocom.htm from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Fri Oct 13 08:29:32 2000 e9DDTUG09714 GAA03965 (5.5.2650.21) "'rodmakers'" Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons removing 10 thousands from the outside surface drops tensile strength by6.6%. In bending, strength drops by 15% at the adjacent node and that theleast weakness in a rod section is with spiral node spacing or nodeless. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:11 PM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or how did hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make? timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study onthis and what he told us at corbette lake is thatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of powerfibers. He was working in conjunction with I think a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Fri Oct 13 09:09:22 2000 e9DE9MG10898 Subject: Re: Attention PC Users - Virus Alert - W95.MTX Recently, I was invaded by a trojan virus that sneaks in as part of an email. It replaces Notepad.exe with a larger file and sends out copies to everyone in your address book plus sends some info about your system to someplacein China. Remember that email several of us received about Chinese bamboo rods? Connected??????? In my case, McAfee caught the change in file size for Notepad, but could not solve the file swap. I had to delete the larger phony notepad.exe file and replace it with a clean Notepad.exe from backup. Look for a notepad.exe larger than about 50K - 52K and delete it. Don Burns PS - I have now once again pi$$ed off some people by blocking allattachments to my email and so I haven't received a few files sent by friends and newsgroups. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Oct 13 09:41:39 2000 e9DEfcG12710 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 07:41:28 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing channer wrote: Harry;I make about 8 rods a year, mostly consignment sold, a few orders, and Itell folks they take 3 months. That way i just work on them for a anhour or 2 when I get home and in the early morning when I'm up anyway onthe 1 weekend day i don't go fishing. Doesn't it say in the Good Booksomeplace that "on the 7th day, He went fishing"?John John,Notice my signature line, from Simon Peter? But I really think that the BigGuy did something other than fish on the 7th Day.I guess I came off as a little burned out in my previous post. The truth isthat I'm working hard to get two rods out before the Southern RodmakersGathering,and it's going to be close! Does anyone know how to make varnish set reallyhardin just a few hours? (Just kidding) Harry--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." John 21:3 Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from dhaftel@att.com Fri Oct 13 09:50:14 2000 e9DEoDG13087 KAA20101; (8.8.8+Sun/ATTEMS-1.4.1 sol2) (5.5.2652.35) Subject: RE: Yet again guide spacing Does anyone know how to make varnish set really hardin just a few hours? Sure I do, Harry. Just put the rods in the freezer! ;-) Dennis from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Oct 13 09:55:04 2000 e9DEt4G13371 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:56:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Yet again guide spacing Once it's dust free, temp. inside my minivan gets to 140 deg. F., in summer! This does speed it up ! GMA from Ron_Elder@cpr.ca Fri Oct 13 10:04:01 2000 e9DF40G13826 1999)) id 87256977.0052C5F5 ; Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:04:06 -0600 Subject: Float Tube Rod? Looking for a 9' 4/5wt 2or3 piece taper that would make a good rod forusing in a float tube. Any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance,....ron from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Fri Oct 13 10:06:29 2000 e9DF6TG13992 Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons So far I've seen reports and some numbers on the effect of taking a giventhickness of enamel/fibers off the surface of a strip or section, and it ishelpful to be able to predict the effect of various amounts of materialremoval. But I don't think the info we've seen addresses a question I findmore important - that's the question of the difference between a strip (orsection) made after minimal removal of enamel/fibers vs a strip OF THESAMEFINAL DIMENSIONS made with a greater thickness removed. The answer isprobably different for tip vs butt strips. Anyone know if this sort oftesting has been done? Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons removing 10 thousands from the outside surface drops tensile strength by6.6%. In bending, strength drops by 15% at the adjacent node and that theleast weakness in a rod section is with spiral node spacing or nodeless. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:11 PM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or how did hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make? timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study onthis and what he told us at corbette lake is thatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of powerfibers. He was working in conjunction with I think a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from eestlow@yahoo.com Fri Oct 13 10:37:57 2000 e9DFbvG15360 2000 08:37:51 PDT Subject: Plane Tuning Hello all: I've been lurking for a week or two, was a somewhatactive member of the list a year ago before lifeintervened. My post of a few days ago was a bit terse.I apologize for that. I just picked up an old Stanley plane with no markingson it (besides the word Stanley). It wants a bit ofwork and I'm wondering if someone can point me to thescary sharp method of sharpening and/or to generalplane tuning info. The Stanley Plane site link onRodmakers is apparently defunct. At least I get a File404. I also get a 404 on a URL I have that once heldinstructions for the scary sharp method. I'd appreciate any help, public or private. Best regards,-Ed Estlow __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri Oct 13 10:57:37 2000 e9DFvaG16041 Subject: RE: Plane Tuning There is a forum out there of woodworkers who prefer handtools, theycall themselves "neanderthal" woodworkers in jest, and they know justabout everything about hand planes. You can find them atwww.wwforum.com, known as the "Badger Pond" website. Somwhere withinthe www.wwforum.com website is an article by a man named RJ Whelan, whowrote about 19 Steps to Tuning a Plane. This is a great work, withgreat info about reviving those old handplanes. By the way, Stanley didnot mark a model number on the 9-1/2 (or several of its other blockplanes) for many many years, so this tool could easily be one of those.At the same wwforum.com site, you should be able to search for ScarySharp and find the original article on this method. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 9:38 AM Subject: Plane Tuning Hello all: I've been lurking for a week or two, was a somewhatactive member of the list a year ago before lifeintervened. My post of a few days ago was a bit terse.I apologize for that. I just picked up an old Stanley plane with no markingson it (besides the word Stanley). It wants a bit ofwork and I'm wondering if someone can point me to thescary sharp method of sharpening and/or to generalplane tuning info. The Stanley Plane site link onRodmakers is apparently defunct. At least I get a File404. I also get a 404 on a URL I have that once heldinstructions for the scary sharp method. I'd appreciate any help, public or private. Best regards,-Ed Estlow __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from freaner@home.com Fri Oct 13 12:55:58 2000 e9DHtqG19978 Subject: Re: Enamel and sharp hexagons At 12:22 PM -0700 on 10/12/00, CHRISTOPHER MCDOWELL wrote about Enamel and sharp hexagons One of you engineer/mathematicians probably has a formula based on culm circumference related to strip width. The smaller the culm circumference the more material that must be removed to arrive at flatness. Double jeopardy. Already shallower power fibers that have to be ground even more to get the flat strips. I didn't have a formula per se handy, but it was an interesting way to spend lunch . To sand down (or plane off) the enamel, JUST enough to make the strip flat, which will still leave enamel on the 2 of the 3 apexes, means removing the curved portion of the enamel that is above the two apexes. The height of this curved portion in the center, compared to a line connecting the two apexes, is Culm Diameter: 1.5 in. 2.0 in. 2.5 in. Enamel Center Height: 0.00502 in. 0.00376 in. 0.00300 in. I don't know how thick the enamel is on an average culm, but what these numbers tell me, is that if one removes enough enamel so that the two apexes no longer have any enamel at all on them, then the center of the flat will have cut into the power fibers or other material below the enamel only the amount shown above: roughly 0.004 inches. I also don't know if this is enough to significantly affect the performance or not. Hope this helps. Claude from bob@downandacross.com Fri Oct 13 13:18:33 2000 e9DIIWG20773 Subject: Ferrule making supplies --=====================_20760401==_.ALT Could someone who is presently making ferrules from bar stock give mesome advice on what to purchase as far as reamers go.Also, if I am going to ream to 14/64 for a ferrule of that size, what would I use to drill the hole first, i.e., how much smaller? Secondly, has anyone tried the all-in-one drill/reaming bits from Travers? They claim they can do both in one shot. As I don't have a lot of tooling, this might be worth a shot. I am ready to buy the gear, just not sure what to go with.TIA, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_20760401==_.ALT Could someone who is presently making ferrules from bar stockgive me some advice on what to purchase as far as reamers go. Also, if I am going to ream to 14/64 for a ferrule of that size,what would I use to drill the hole first, i.e., how much smaller?Secondly, has anyone tried the all-in-one drill/reaming bits fromTravers? They claim they can do both in one shot. As I don't have a lotof tooling, this might be worth a shot. I am ready to buy the gear, justnot sure what to go with. TIA, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_20760401==_.ALT-- from bob@downandacross.com Fri Oct 13 13:29:09 2000 e9DIT8G21300 Subject: Re: Ferrule making supplies --=====================_21397918==_.ALT Those all-in-one bits are on Travers Catalog, p.50. At 02:17 PM 10/13/00 -0400, bob maulucci wrote:Could someone who is presently making ferrules from bar stock give mesome advice on what to purchase as far as reamers go.Also, if I am going to ream to 14/64 for a ferrule of that size, what would I use to drill the hole first, i.e., how much smaller? Secondly, has anyone tried the all-in-one drill/reaming bits from Travers? They claim they can do both in one shot. As I don't have a lot of tooling, this might be worth a shot. I am ready to buy the gear, just not sure what to go with.TIA, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_21397918==_.ALT Those all-in-one bits are on Travers Catalog, p.50. At 02:17 PM 10/13/00 -0400, bob maulucci wrote:Could someone who is presently making ferrules from bar stock give me some advice on what to purchase as far as reamersgo. Also, if I am going to ream to 14/64 for a ferrule of that size, whatwould I use to drill the hole first, i.e., how much smaller? Secondly,has anyone tried the all-in-one drill/reaming bits from Travers? Theyclaim they can do both in one shot. As I don't have a lot of tooling,this might be worth a shot. I am ready to buy the gear, just not surewhat to go with. TIA, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com SplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_21397918==_.ALT-- from caneman@clnk.com Fri Oct 13 13:30:19 2000 e9DIUIG21405 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:23:42 -0500 Subject: Enamel and Nodes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C03519.255D4D20 I have always been fanatic about pressing nodes, but I've been =thinking a lot in the past few months about something. I've built a lot =of rods, and have restored/repaired a lot more. One company, that =builds and sells a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and price =wise, is R.L. Winston Rod Company. Winston doesn't press nodes, they =sand them flat on a disc sander. I've done a few "touch-ups" and =rewrapped a guide or two on Winston Rods, and have owned a couple =myself... wish I still had one of them, cause it was a casting machine! =In any case, one thing I have NEVER seen in a Winston, is a failure in =the node areas and I've never seen a winston take a set at the nodes =(what I mean is a pronounced and sharp set where the nodes are matched = My questions is, are we putting too much emphasis, as modern =rodmakers, on pressing nodes? On a culm I just randomly picked out of =the shop, an untouched node is, on the average down this particular =culm, about 0.055" above the surface of the internodal regions. OK, =when we file or sand the node prior to pressing, we probably take off at =least .020" just to get rid of the prominent ridge and groove on the =node and to make it smoothe enough for pressing. Then we press the hell =out of it, and almost inevitably, we're going to take a few more =thousandths off when we prep the strip for beveling... some even more =than that, since I know many at least flatten the enamel surface with a =scraper so the strip will fit the forms well. So... lets just say we =have prepped the node, pressed it, filed it to take out any remaining =ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape the rest of the enamel =surface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" that we take off somewhere =in the neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in this process and then =another couple of thousandths or more when we sand the blank after =glueing? If so, then would we be damaging the node and compromising =it's strength by simply sanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, = I took that same culm that I measured the node height on and cut a =piece off of it that would include a node, then split it, pressed the =node on one of the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the node =the way Winston does... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that =many to know when to quit! I ate the first two up in the sander. What =I saw, was a node that was slightly longer in appearance overall (about =1/4 inche longer), but that had an unusual and really quite attractive =look to it. After that, I broke both pieces at the node, and while I =didn't use any sort of gage to measure the breaking point, the "feel" =when they broke, or the point they broke at with me pulling on them =sideways in a bench vice, seemed the same. With my hand, I could feel =no difference... both were tough to break, and the physical =characteristics of the breaks were the same. By that, I mean the =splintering of both strips was similar to the naked eye.So that poses the question... Do we put too much emphasis on =pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so close in characteristics and =strength that it really doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT in the =way they look?I still press, and those of you that know me personally, know that =getting me to change the way I do things is probably on the same level =of difficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a question that has =been dwelling on my mind for quite some time.Fire away! I already put on my bullet proof rodmaking vest! LOL Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm ------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C03519.255D4D20 = that builds and sells a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and price = a guide or two on Winston Rods, and have owned a couple myself... wish I = have NEVER seen in a Winston, is a failure in the node areas and I've = a winston take a set at the nodes (what I mean is a pronounced and sharp = of the shop, an untouched node is, on the average down this particular = and to make it smoothe enough for pressing. Then we press the hell out = and almost inevitably, we're going to take a few more thousandths off = prep the strip for beveling... some even more than that, since I know = least flatten the enamel surface with a scraper so the strip will fit = to take out any remaining ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape = of the enamel surface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" = take off somewhere in the neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in = process and then another couple of thousandths or more when we sand the = it's strength by simply sanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, = and cut a piece off of it that would include a node, then split it, = node on one of the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the node = Winston does... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that many to = a node that was slightly longer in appearance overall (about 1/4 inche = that, I broke both pieces at the node, and while I didn't use any sort = to measure the breaking point, the "feel" when they broke, or = point they broke at with me pulling on them sideways in a bench vice, = break, and the physical characteristics of the breaks were the = that, I mean the splintering of both strips was similar to the naked =eye. = emphasis on pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so close in = strength that it really doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT in the = they look? know that getting me to change the way I do things is probably on the = of difficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a question that has = dwelling on my mind for quite some time. rodmaking vest! LOL Bob = Rodsht=tp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm= ------=_NextPart_000_03A5_01C03519.255D4D20-- from bob@downandacross.com Fri Oct 13 13:48:26 2000 e9DImQG22508 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes Bob:I noticed too, that the nodes open up (widen) a bit when sanded. I believe you are probably right that they are just as strong. I think the look is the biggest difference. Have not had a rod break at the node either way yet!Bob M. At 01:26 PM 10/13/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote:I have always been fanatic about pressing nodes, but I've been thinking a lot in the past few months about something. I've built a lot of rods, and have restored/repaired a lot more. One company, that builds and sells a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and price wise, is R.L. Winston Rod Company. Winston doesn't press nodes, they sand them flat on a disc sander. I've done a few "touch-ups" and rewrapped a guide or two on Winston Rods, and have owned a couple myself... wish I still had one of them, cause it was a casting machine! In any case, one thing I have NEVER seen in a Winston, is a failure in the node areas and I've never seen a winston take a set at the nodes (what I mean is a pronounced and sharp set where the nodes are matched up when spaced).My questions is, are we putting too much emphasis, as modern rodmakers, on pressing nodes? On a culm I just randomly picked out of the shop, an untouched node is, on the average down this particular culm, about 0.055" above the surface of the internodal regions. OK, when we file or sand the node prior to pressing, we probably take off at least .020" just to get rid of the prominent ridge and groove on the node and to make it smoothe enough for pressing. Then we press the hell out of it, and almost inevitably, we're going to take a few more thousandths off when we prep the strip for beveling... some even more than that, since I know many at least flatten the enamel surface with a scraper so the strip will fit the forms well. So... lets just say we have prepped the node, pressed it, filed it to take out any remaining ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape the rest of the enamel surface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" that we take off somewhere in the neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in this process and then another couple of thousandths or more when we sand the blank after glueing? If so, then would we be damaging the node and compromising it's strength by simply sanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, Heddon, and many many others?I took that same culm that I measured the node height on and cut a piece off of it that would include a node, then split it, pressed the node on one of the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the node the way Winston does... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that many to know when to quit! I ate the first two up in the sander. What I saw, was a node that was slightly longer in appearance overall (about 1/4 inche longer), but that had an unusual and really quite attractive look to it. After that, I broke both pieces at the node, and while I didn't use any sort of gage to measure the breaking point, the "feel" when they broke, or the point they broke at with me pulling on them sideways in a bench vice, seemed the same. With my hand, I could feel no difference... both were tough to break, and the physical characteristics of the breaks were the same. By that, I mean the splintering of both strips was similar to the naked eye.So that poses the question... Do we put too much emphasis on pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so close in characteristics and strength that it really doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT in the way they look?I still press, and those of you that know me personally, know that getting me to change the way I do things is probably on the same level of difficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a question that has been dwelling on my mind for quite some time.Fire away! I already put on my bullet proof rodmaking vest! LOL Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://membe rs.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm from rmoon@ida.net Fri Oct 13 14:53:12 2000 e9DJrBG24759 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes BobI very much think you have a point. Personnaly I sometimes press nodes,but each time I do I cringe a little inside, because I am sure that itis not the way to go and is not necessary. (See! Those ingrained firsthabits are difficult to break.) The compressed node I think is in astate of tension. Displaced nodes are not, presumably, but I cringe abit if the pith side is hollowed out. I have never had a rod (mine oranyone elses) break at the node. I have simply filed most of my nodeslevel, unless there is a reason to not file that much. such as a verypronounced dip before the node. Ray Goulds little machine is maybe theway to go, rather than the jaws of a vise. Ralph from anglport@con2.com Fri Oct 13 15:18:54 2000 e9DKIrG25788 Subject: Re: Plane Tuning Ed,Welcome back! I've been able to get it at: http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#original 'Course I can't get it to work right NOW, but...... Hope you have better luck,Art At 08:37 AM 10/13/2000 -0700, Ed Estlow wrote:Hello all: I've been lurking for a week or two, was a somewhatactive member of the list a year ago before lifeintervened. My post of a few days ago was a bit terse.I apologize for that. I just picked up an old Stanley plane with no markingson it (besides the word Stanley). It wants a bit ofwork and I'm wondering if someone can point me to thescary sharp method of sharpening and/or to generalplane tuning info. The Stanley Plane site link onRodmakers is apparently defunct. At least I get a File404. I also get a 404 on a URL I have that once heldinstructions for the scary sharp method. I'd appreciate any help, public or private. Best regards,-Ed Estlow __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from zimmer@adams.net Fri Oct 13 16:15:58 2000 e9DLFwG09962 (qmailr@216.138.0.16) Subject: Bamboo casting rod This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C03531.9DF93B00 A fellow just walked into my office with a Horrocks and Ibbotson casting =rod (looks pretty stiff) the little label says genuine tonkin cane and =written in script is the inscription "Go Getter" the varnish is starting =to get a little deterioated but from what I can see, the rod looks =fairly well built. it is 54" from bottom of turned hardwood handle to =tiptop. Maybe a musky rod? It does have a nice Pfleuger Supreme casting =reel on it. Any information would be appreciated. This is a little =off-subject but I thought was interesting because they were proud to =claim it as Tonkin cane...Randy Zimmerman ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C03531.9DF93B00 A fellow just walked into my office with a Horrocks = Ibbotson casting rod (looks pretty stiff) the little label says genuine = cane and written in script is the inscription "Go Getter" the varnish is = looks fairly well built. it is 54" from bottom of turned hardwood handle = tiptop. Maybe a musky rod? It does have a nice Pfleuger Supreme casting = it. Any information would be appreciated. This is a little off-subject = cane...Randy Zimmerman ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C03531.9DF93B00-- from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 13 16:49:42 2000 e9DLnfG11323 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 16:50:57 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes --------------874F34A7C40E70870ED0CC9C Bob,I have only made a few rods and blanks, I am on #28 now. The first rod I made, I sanded the nodesflat on a 1" belt sander. The rod looks good andcasts as good as it looks if not better. It wasthe easy way to go after the frustration ofsplitting the first culm. Personally I like thelooks of the sanded nodes. That is the only one Idid that way. I then started to heat flatten butstill filed off the rest of the node. Now I spendtoo much time trying to get the nodal area assmall as I can get it. I have been wondering if itis worth the trouble. No mater what you do therewill still be the little fingers showing though alot smaller. What lead me to the smaller nodalarea is the fact that it is just a sign of goodworkmanship on a rod. I have to try to do thingsas good as can be done. Don't ask me why, I guessit is from my airplane days. I would continue tosand the nodes if it were not for the fact thatsmall nodal areas seem to be judged by othermakers as a quality factor. I still file off theones that go under the grip if they are bothersomenodes.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Nunley wrote: I have always been fanatic about pressingnodes, but I've been thinking a lot in the pastfew months about something. I've built a lot ofrods, and have restored/repaired a lot more.One company, that builds and sells a very highend bamboo rod, both quality and price wise, isR.L. --------------874F34A7C40E70870ED0CC9C Bob, first rod I made, I sanded the nodes flat on a 1" belt sander. The rodlooks good and casts as good as it looks if not better. It was the easyway to go after the frustration of splitting the first culm. PersonallyI like the looks of the sanded nodes. That is the only one I did that way.I then started to heat flatten but still filed off the rest of the node.Now I spend too much time trying to get the nodal area as small as I canget it. I have been wondering if it is worth the trouble. No mater whatyou do there will still be the little fingers showing though a lot smaller.What lead me to the smaller nodal area is the fact that it is just a signof good workmanship on a rod. I have to try to do things as good as canbe done. Don't ask me why, I guess it is from my airplane days. I wouldcontinue to sand the nodes if it were not for the fact that small nodalareas seem to be judged by other makers as a quality factor. I still fileoff the ones that go under the grip if they are bothersome nodes. Bob Nunley wrote: been fanatic about pressing nodes, but I've been thinking a lot in the a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and price wise, is --------------874F34A7C40E70870ED0CC9C-- from rsgould@cmc.net Fri Oct 13 16:52:27 2000 e9DLqQG11564 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes Organization: GOULD This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C03525.13CDF260 Hi Bob,Yes perhaps there is too much emphasis on pressing nodes. I my own rod =building I do both filing and pressing. The filing is done first to =level off the top of each strip and then each strip is pressed in the =gadget I call a "presser" to take the kinks out and straighten up trhe =fibers in the nodes and adjacent areas. Final strength of the strips has =not been a problem.Ray Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 11:26 AMSubject: Enamel and Nodes I have always been fanatic about pressing nodes, but I've been =thinking a lot in the past few months about something. I've built a lot =of rods, and have restored/repaired a lot more. One company, that =builds and sells a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and price =wise, is R.L. Winston Rod Company. Winston doesn't press nodes, they =sand them flat on a disc sander. I've done a few "touch-ups" and =rewrapped a guide or two on Winston Rods, and have owned a couple =myself... wish I still had one of them, cause it was a casting machine! =In any case, one thing I have NEVER seen in a Winston, is a failure in =the node areas and I've never seen a winston take a set at the nodes =(what I mean is a pronounced and sharp set where the nodes are matched = My questions is, are we putting too much emphasis, as modern =rodmakers, on pressing nodes? On a culm I just randomly picked out of =the shop, an untouched node is, on the average down this particular =culm, about 0.055" above the surface of the internodal regions. OK, =when we file or sand the node prior to pressing, we probably take off at =least .020" just to get rid of the prominent ridge and groove on the =node and to make it smoothe enough for pressing. Then we press the hell =out of it, and almost inevitably, we're going to take a few more =thousandths off when we prep the strip for beveling... some even more =than that, since I know many at least flatten the enamel surface with a =scraper so the strip will fit the forms well. So... lets just say we =have prepped the node, pressed it, filed it to take out any remaining =ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape the rest of the enamel =surface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" that we take off somewhere =in the neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in this process and then =another couple of thousandths or more when we sand the blank after =glueing? If so, then would we be damaging the node and compromising =it's strength by simply sanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, = I took that same culm that I measured the node height on and cut a =piece off of it that would include a node, then split it, pressed the =node on one of the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the node =the way Winston does... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that =many to know when to quit! I ate the first two up in the sander. What =I saw, was a node that was slightly longer in appearance overall (about =1/4 inche longer), but that had an unusual and really quite attractive =look to it. After that, I broke both pieces at the node, and while I =didn't use any sort of gage to measure the breaking point, the "feel" =when they broke, or the point they broke at with me pulling on them =sideways in a bench vice, seemed the same. With my hand, I could feel =no difference... both were tough to break, and the physical =characteristics of the breaks were the same. By that, I mean the =splintering of both strips was similar to the naked eye.So that poses the question... Do we put too much emphasis on =pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so close in characteristics and =strength that it really doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT in the =way they look?I still press, and those of you that know me personally, know that =getting me to change the way I do things is probably on the same level =of difficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a question that has =been dwelling on my mind for quite some time.Fire away! I already put on my bullet proof rodmaking vest! LOL Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C03525.13CDF260 Hi Bob,Yes perhaps there is too muchemphasis = nodes. I my own rod building I do both filing and pressing. The filing = first to level off the top of each strip and then each strip is pressed = gadget I call a "presser" to take the kinks out and straighten up trhe = the nodes and adjacent areas. Final strength of the strips has not been = problem.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Bob =Nunley = Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 = AMSubject: Enamel and Nodes that builds and sells a very high end bamboo rod, both quality and = or two on Winston Rods, and have owned a couple myself... wish I still = NEVER seen in a Winston, is a failure in the node areas and I've never = winston take a set at the nodes (what I mean is a pronounced and sharp = out of the shop, an untouched node is, on the average down this = we file or sand the node prior to pressing, we probably take off at = to make it smoothe enough for pressing. Then we press the hell out of = almost inevitably, we're going to take a few more thousandths off when = the strip for beveling... some even more than that, since I know many = flatten the enamel surface with a scraper so the strip will fit the = to take out any remaining ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape = of the enamel surface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" that we = somewhere in the neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in this = then another couple of thousandths or more when we sand the blank = strength by simply sanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, = = on and cut a piece off of it that would include a node, then split it, = the node on one of the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the = way Winston does... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that = saw, was a node that was slightly longer in appearance overall (about = inche longer), but that had an unusual and really quite attractive = any sort of gage to measure the breaking point, the "feel" when they = the point they broke at with me pulling on them sideways in a bench = tough to break, and the physical characteristics of the breaks were = naked eye. emphasis on pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so close in = and strength that it really doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT = way they look? personally, know that getting me to change the way I do things is = the same level of difficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a = that has been dwelling on my mind for quite some time. rodmaking vest! LOL Bob Rodsht=tp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm= ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C03525.13CDF260-- from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 13 17:05:37 2000 e9DM5aG12177 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 17:06:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes Ralph,What I have been doing is cut out a moon " no comment" shape on the pithside of the strip at the nodes. I use a small band saw for this and only cutthe pith on the strip. When I heat press the node it flattens out to somedegree but mostly it displaces itself. After I straighten the strips andstart the 60* bevel I go back and flatten the nodes. It takes very littleheat to do this due to the fact that this is done on wet strips. You haveseen one of my blanks and know what they look like. This may not be the"proper" way of doing things but I find it does a pretty good job of keepingthose nodal areas small.FlyTyr@southshore.comRalph W Moon wrote: BobI very much think you have a point. Personnaly I sometimes press nodes,but each time I do I cringe a little inside, because I am sure that itis not the way to go and is not necessary. (See! Those ingrained firsthabits are difficult to break.) The compressed node I think is in astate of tension. Displaced nodes are not, presumably, but I cringe abit if the pith side is hollowed out. I have never had a rod (mine oranyone elses) break at the node. I have simply filed most of my nodeslevel, unless there is a reason to not file that much. such as a verypronounced dip before the node. Ray Goulds little machine is maybe theway to go, rather than the jaws of a vise. Ralph from lblan@provide.net Fri Oct 13 18:32:05 2000 e9DNW5G14273 Subject: RE: Plane Tuning And don't forget "The Electronic Neanderthal" an outstanding Stanleyreference.http://almond.srv.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html Larry Blan -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Tuning There is a forum out there of woodworkers who prefer handtools, theycall themselves "neanderthal" woodworkers in jest, and they know justabout everything about hand planes. You can find them atwww.wwforum.com, known as the "Badger Pond" website. Somwhere withinthe www.wwforum.com website is an article by a man named RJ Whelan, whowrote about 19 Steps to Tuning a Plane. This is a great work, withgreat info about reviving those old handplanes. By the way, Stanley didnot mark a model number on the 9-1/2 (or several of its other blockplanes) for many many years, so this tool could easily be one of those.At the same wwforum.com site, you should be able to search for ScarySharp and find the original article on this method. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 9:38 AM Subject: Plane Tuning Hello all: I've been lurking for a week or two, was a somewhatactive member of the list a year ago before lifeintervened. My post of a few days ago was a bit terse.I apologize for that. I just picked up an old Stanley plane with no markingson it (besides the word Stanley). It wants a bit ofwork and I'm wondering if someone can point me to thescary sharp method of sharpening and/or to generalplane tuning info. The Stanley Plane site link onRodmakers is apparently defunct. At least I get a File404. I also get a 404 on a URL I have that once heldinstructions for the scary sharp method. I'd appreciate any help, public or private. Best regards,-Ed Estlow __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from lblove@omniglobal.net Fri Oct 13 18:36:18 2000 e9DNaHG14456 Subject: Re: Plane Tuning Hi Ed,I have just recieved a copy of a book by the title of "The CompleteGuide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee(the owner of Lee Valley). In the book it covers everything you ever wanted to know about sharpening hand tools and fine tuning planes. I am sure that the book could be sourced by any large libary in a book exchange or fromthe local book store or Lee Valley directly. The book is on loan to me use to discribe him. Brad ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Plane Tuning I just picked up an old Stanley plane with no markingson it (besides the word Stanley). It wants a bit ofwork and I'm wondering if someone can point me to thescary sharp method of sharpening and/or to generalplane tuning info from rbrand@mmcable.com Fri Oct 13 19:16:55 2000 e9E0GtG15681 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 19:16:54 -0500 Subject: Newbie and Planing forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C0354A.372FB7A0 Another newbie here.I have been lurking for a few weeks also, so I =finally got the courage to just jump in and ask. I've learned so much =already by reading everyone's post's, but I still have many question's. = I have my steel planing forms ready for the bevel at this time,but I'm =not quite sure how to go about putting the bevel on them without getting =one end deeper than the other. I have put many hours in these forms up =to this point, and I would REALLY hate to mess them up now. Your advise =is greatly appreciated! Thank youRodney Brand ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C0354A.372FB7A0 Hello All! = much already by reading everyone's post's, but I still have many = will start with one for now. this time,but I'm not quite sure how to go about putting the bevel on = without getting one end deeper than the other. I have put many hours in = forms up to this point, and I would REALLY hate to mess them up now. = is greatly appreciated! Thank youRodney Brand ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C0354A.372FB7A0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Oct 13 19:39:50 2000 e9E0doG16150 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 19:39:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Bamboo casting rod They put that on all their rods, that I have, or have seen. In general, theyare sort of middle class, to low grade in cane. GMA from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Oct 13 20:34:19 2000 e9E1YIG17165 Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:34:15 -0700 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes Bob,Even if you don't press nodes, don't you still have toheat and straighten nearly every node? I straighten andpress in one quick operation, so it only takes a few minutesmore per rod. But I see your point completely - Garrisonhanded down a bunch of his own peculiarities and they became"gospel." Someone else handed down the node pressing as"gospel" when in fact it is just another solution to adifficult problem.The exception to my statement is one already mentioned -nodes which have a deep indention above or below them.Those culms probably ought to be rejected. I'm finishing upa couple of rods from "humpy" noded cane, and I wish I hadthrown the entire culm away!Another thought - perhaps one reason some makers do notpress nodes is that they don't straighten them either. Theyeither rough out on a saw, or use oversized pieces of bambooand go straight to a mill of some sort. In that case, thetime savings versus pressing and straightening each nodewould be significant. Just my $.02,Harry Bob Nunley wrote: .... >So that poses the question... Do we put too muchemphasis on pressing nodes, or are sanded nodes so closein characteristics and strength that it really doesn'tmake that much difference, EXCEPT in the way they look? from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Oct 13 21:04:34 2000 e9E24XG17864 Subject: Re: Ferrule making supplies In a message dated 10/13/2000 2:19:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bob@downandacross.com writes: Bob, You don't want to ream more than .005 at a time,preferably less than .005in. Drill the ferrule to within .005in. of your final dim. then ream to your final dim. Don't forget, mostdrill bits will drill a slightly larger hole than the size of the bit!Experiment with your bits first, to see what size hole they willdrill. When reaming, go slow, use plenty of oil and neverrotate the work piece in the opposite direction. Always keepthe reamers blades going in the cutting direction, even whenbacking the reamer out of the hole. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from HalManas@aol.com Fri Oct 13 21:16:40 2000 e9E2GdG18162 Subject: Guide spacing for Digger's PDG rod List,Does anyone have the correct or original guide spacing for Francis "Digger" Degere's "Pretty Darn Good" Rod? The taper is in the latest Planing Form issue 65 Sept/Oct 2000. By the way station 55 should read .226 not .126. Thanks in advance. Hal from jhiggs@home.com Fri Oct 13 21:17:27 2000 e9E2HRG18263 Subject: Re: Abercrombie & Fitch Hardy Banty Rods I hope you will all bear with my ignorance in posting to a listserver(first time) and my lack of rod knowledge.I joined this listserver after an internet search directed me to thisarea.My father liked to fish and while he never had a lot of time nor a vastcollection of rods, he did have one that may be theitem you describe in your posting.I have the rod in front of me now. It is very short- 2 small sections,cork handled - odd bronzish colour to the body. Thereis a label near the handle in text black stating "Abercrombie & Fitch -New York - Chicago - San Francisco and about two inchesfurther up the rod is, in quotations " Banty 44" followed immediately by"-1 ok" not in quotes. The banty text appears tobe written directly on the rod. The joints (ferrules?) are gold or brassin colour and the 4 guides and top piece are steel coloured.Anything you could tell me about this rod would be greatly appreciated.My father used a a tiny 2 1/2" by 1in wide reel engraved on its back as" Made by Hardy Bros. Ltd. England for Abercrombie and Fitch co. TheFlyweight Silent Check" Thank you al fror your indulgence. Can anyone on the list supply me with a taper for the Hardy 4'4" BantyRod they produced for the New York sporting goods store AbercrombieandFitch ?Any other details about this particular model would also beappreciated.Hardy's have one of these rods in there museum in Alnwick, England but all attempts to get an inspection of the rod or details released havebeen unsuccesful. from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Oct 13 21:23:42 2000 e9E2NgG18502 19:23:41 PDT Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons barry, i think this is a serious concideration andwould in no way want to appear to minimise it byasking a parallel question as way of comparison andincrease discussion because i think it has to be afactor in this concideration. (yes i read it too buti'm not going to rewrite it:-)) what about thedifference between culms? timothy --- "Kling, Barry W." wrote: So far I've seen reports and some numbers on theeffect of taking a giventhickness of enamel/fibers off the surface of astrip or section, and it ishelpful to be able to predict the effect of variousamounts of materialremoval. But I don't think the info we've seenaddresses a question I findmore important - that's the question of thedifference between a strip (orsection) made after minimal removal of enamel/fibersvs a strip OF THE SAMEFINAL DIMENSIONS made with a greater thicknessremoved. The answer isprobably different for tip vs butt strips. Anyoneknow if this sort oftesting has been done? Barry -----Original Message-----From: Coffey, Patrick W Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:29 AM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons removing 10 thousands from the outside surface dropstensile strength by6.6%. In bending, strength drops by 15% at theadjacent node and that theleast weakness in a rod section is with spiral nodespacing or nodeless. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: timothy Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:11 PM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or howdid hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make? timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a studyonthis and what he told us at corbette lake isthatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength tillyouremove 50 thousands from the outer surface ofpowerfibers. He was working in conjunction with Ithink a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access fromanywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 13 21:28:48 2000 e9E2SkG18759 Subject: Re: Guide spacing for Digger's PDG rod The mention of The Planing Form reminds me of a question I have beenmeaning toask the list. Does anyone have issue # 30 that would make me a copy. I havethemall except that one. Somehow it was lost when I moved, along with severalotheritems.Thanks in advance.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com HalManas@aol.com wrote: List,Does anyone have the correct or original guide spacing for Francis"Digger" Degere's "Pretty Darn Good" Rod? The taper is in the latestPlaningForm issue 65 Sept/Oct 2000. By the way station 55 should read .226 not.126. Thanks in advance. Hal from channer1@rmi.net Fri Oct 13 21:30:09 2000 e9E2U9G18903 Subject: signoff I'm going out of town for at least a week and I can't seem to signoff from the list, could someone please remind me how to get this done, Idon't want to come home to 400 emails waiting to be downloaded. I triedusnsubscribe rodmakers John Channer, but it came back as incorrectsyntax. HELP!John from ROBERT.KOPE@prodigy.net Fri Oct 13 21:34:19 2000 e9E2YIG19178 e9E2YDj102746 Subject: Re: straightening Newmin, Marty is right about straightening after the glue has set, but I think yourquestion was about getting a section straight while the glue is still wet. A number of listmembers have recommended slapping a freshly gluedsectiondown on a flat surface. This is supposed to get the section perfectlystraight in the plane that you slap it. Then you rotate the section andrepeat the process until the section is completely straight. I tried thisand couldn't seem to get it to work. Ray Gould designed a jig with 2 drill chucks to hold the ends of a rodsection. The chucks can be rotated to remove twists, and tension on theblank will also hold it straight while the glue dries. I believe this wouldhelp, but have not tried it myself. One concern I have is that this approachseems like it would leave internal stresses in the splines by simply holdingthem straight while the glue cures when you really want to get the splinesto slide relative to each other to relieve the stresses. A number of folks have also recommended rolling the section firmly against aflat surface. The idea is to start with your hands in the middle and workyour hands out to the ends as you roll the section back and forth. Thisapproach has worked for me to remove major kinks, but doesn't seem to domuch for those last few minor bends. I think that if it doesn't come out of the binder straight, you probablyneed to just be patient and carefully work the kinks out the ends of thesection. You can try holding it down against the workbench with a finger orthumb while you pull the section back (kind of like pulling back a billiardcue, preparing to shoot). Or you can just try to work the kinks out theends freehand. That's what always seemed to work best for me when I wasbinding by hand. Now that I built a decent binder, I'm happy to hang themup just as they come out of the binder and use the heat gun to remove anyminor twists or bends after they cure. -- Robert Kope-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: straightening Newmin wrote: Hello Guys, I've been lurking for a while and have a question: Anyhints or tips on straightening my glued blanks. They are coming offthe binder pretty straight, its just the last bit of tweeking that hasme baffled. Other than patience is there any tricks that I shouldknow? Watching this list has been a lot of help. thanks in advanceNewminHeat straightening works best over a heat gun using your bare hands.This way you can make sure the rod doesn't get too hot. If it's too hotto hold it's too hot. First take out any twists than sight the blank andmark the flat with a pencil at the bend. Roll it over the heat andreverse bend it slightly . Hold it 10 seconds and sight it again. Repeatif nesesary. Work slowly until it's as "straight as a redneck on aKeywest vacation" Marty from channer1@rmi.net Fri Oct 13 21:34:53 2000 e9E2YqG19260 Subject: signoff Never mind guys, I found it and will go into vacation mode until I getback, I'll see what I missed in the archives.thanks anywayJohn from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Oct 13 21:37:48 2000 e9E2bkG19496 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:37:37 +0800 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:37:36 +0800 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes I am new to this rods with node stuff so what I think my count for squat butthe last few rods I've made not nodeless if you understand my meaning havehadthe nodes flattened with the rough grinding wheel I use for dressing roughsteel.My reasoning for not pressing them is two fold and as I said I could be deadwrong here. Firstly, I can't see why it matters. As long as there is enough left to dressup with a plane in the final stages. Secondly and most importantly as far as I can see it doesn't deform thespline.It just seems a very unusual thing to intentionaly squeeze the node into analready densly packed and confused region. It can't aid in strength in any wayand IMHO it would actually weaken it because of the deformation of the splinenecessary to ram it home. As far as I can see the nodes look exactly the same ground/sanded as thaydopressed and planed. Tony At 01:26 PM 10/13/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote: I have always been fanatic about pressing nodes, but I've beenthinking alot in the past few months about something. I've built a lot of rods, andhave restored/repaired a lot more. One company, that builds and sells averyhigh end bamboo rod, both quality and price wise, is R.L. Winston RodCompany. Winston doesn't press nodes, they sand them flat on a discsander. I've done a few "touch-ups" and rewrapped a guide or two on Winston Rods,andhave owned a couple myself... wish I still had one of them, cause it was acasting machine! In any case, one thing I have NEVER seen in a Winston,is afailure in the node areas and I've never seen a winston take a set at thenodes (what I mean is a pronounced and sharp set where the nodes arematchedup when spaced). My questions is, are we putting too much emphasis, as modernrodmakers,on pressing nodes? On a culm I just randomly picked out of the shop, anuntouched node is, on the average down this particular culm, about 0.055"above the surface of the internodal regions. OK, when we file or sand thenode prior to pressing, we probably take off at least .020" just to get ridof the prominent ridge and groove on the node and to make it smootheenough going to take a few more thousandths off when we prep the strip forbeveling... some even more than that, since I know many at least flattentheenamel surface with a scraper so the strip will fit the forms well. So...lets just say we have prepped the node, pressed it, filed it to take out anyremaining ridges, then scrape the node when we scrape the rest of theenamelsurface... Would it be fair to "guesstimate" that we take off somewhere inthe neighborhood of .025 to .035 of the node in this process and thenanothercouple of thousandths or more when we sand the blank after glueing? Ifso,then would we be damaging the node and compromising it's strength bysimplysanding the node, ala Winston, T&T, Leonard, Heddon, and many manyothers? I took that same culm that I measured the node height on and cut apieceoff of it that would include a node, then split it, pressed the node on oneof the strips the way I normally do, then sanded the node the way Winstondoes... actually sanded 3 nodes, because it took me that many to knowwhen toquit! I ate the first two up in the sander. What I saw, was a node thatwasslightly longer in appearance overall (about 1/4 inche longer), but that hadan unusual and really quite attractive look to it. After that, I broke bothpieces at the node, and while I didn't use any sort of gage to measure thebreaking point, the "feel" when they broke, or the point they broke at withme pulling on them sideways in a bench vice, seemed the same. With myhand,I could feel no difference... both were tough to break, and the physicalcharacteristics of the breaks were the same. By that, I mean thesplinteringof both strips was similar to the naked eye.So that poses the question... Do we put too much emphasis on pressingnodes, or are sanded nodes so close in characteristics and strength that itreally doesn't make that much difference, EXCEPT in the way they look?I still press, and those of you that know me personally, know thatgetting me to change the way I do things is probably on the same level ofdifficulty as getting pigs to fly, but this is a question that has beendwelling on my mind for quite some time.Fire away! I already put on my bullet proof rodmaking vest! LOL Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rods http://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sat Oct 14 02:06:26 2000 e9E76PG23841 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 08:06:23 +0100 Subject: Re: Abercrombie & Fitch Hardy Banty Rods James, Congratulations ( and welcome to the list !)on having in your posessionnot only an hairloom but a rather rare rod ! The 'Banty' was 44 " long when assembled ,to the best of my knowledgewas produced for a short time in the 30's(I stand to be correctd on this?)especially for the American market and to the best of my knowledgeonly ever for the then well known and prestigious sporting goods storeAbercrombie and Fitch.The 'Banty' was never sold here in the UK and to the best of myknowledge there were no more than a few hundred ever made( I havechecked this out with 'Hardy' directly......I live very close to theirmuseum at Alnwick in Northumberland where the rod was made and havealways found them totally unhelpful !!!).The 'Banty' in the Hardy museum is fitted with a tip top and threeguides, all of which are snakes.The rod has red/ruby wraps(whippings)andalso has intermediate wraps on about 2" centres if my memory iscorrect?The reel seat is cork with an end pocket and sliding band.Theferrules will be Hardy 'brass' type and all writing on the rod will bein black india ink. One point to note about the Hardy ferrules ( and nothing to do with yourrod)is that virtually every Hardy Bamboo I have ever seen for arefinish/refurbishment on a well used rod has had the serrations at theends of the ferrules and under the whippings broken off due to fatigueas the sections here are 'thinner than paper'.Hardy do however stillsupply ferrules for restorations ( at an incredibly silly price ! ). The reel that you describe as being used by your'dad' would be the idealmatch for the rod and again was quite rare reel ( particularly with asilent check )and was designed to take the smallest size of level silkline then made and sold by Hardy. If I was to put a monetary value on the rod I would think that here inthe UK a dealer would be asking around £500 UK sterling for the rod andcirca £200 UK sterling for the reel.One last point.......if you could ever send me digital pictures of therod I would be extremely grateful............regards......Paul James Higgs wrote: I hope you will all bear with my ignorance in posting to a listserver(first time) and my lack of rod knowledge.I joined this listserver after an internet search directed me to thisarea.My father liked to fish and while he never had a lot of time nor a vastcollection of rods, he did have one that may be theitem you describe in your posting.I have the rod in front of me now. It is very short- 2 small sections,cork handled - odd bronzish colour to the body. Thereis a label near the handle in text black stating "Abercrombie & Fitch -New York - Chicago - San Francisco and about two inchesfurther up the rod is, in quotations " Banty 44" followed immediately by"-1 ok" not in quotes. The banty text appears tobe written directly on the rod. The joints (ferrules?) are gold or brassin colour and the 4 guides and top piece are steel coloured.Anything you could tell me about this rod would be greatly appreciated.My father used a a tiny 2 1/2" by 1in wide reel engraved on its back as" Made by Hardy Bros. Ltd. England for Abercrombie and Fitch co. TheFlyweight Silent Check" Thank you al fror your indulgence. Can anyone on the list supply me with a taper for the Hardy 4'4" BantyRod they produced for the New York sporting goods store AbercrombieandFitch ?Any other details about this particular model would also beappreciated.Hardy's have one of these rods in there museum in Alnwick, England but all attempts to get an inspection of the rod or details released havebeen unsuccesful. from grau@buchlang.com Sat Oct 14 03:22:46 2000 e9E8MjG24698 (MET DST) Organization: Lang Info Access Subject: Cheap planes and other interesting tools Hi gang here`s a interesting link for all newbies ( and profs also) -http://www.fine- tools.com/ A german distrubutor for planes and more - look also for the bamboo splitterthey have...http://www.fine-tools.com/ba.htm Oh yes - i`m not in business with this ditributor, but think any help isalways great for us.. regards Stefan from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Oct 14 05:07:36 2000 e9EA7YG25572 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Abercrombie & Fitch Hardy Banty Rods Hi James, What you have there is an A&F Banty Fiberglass rod andmatching Hardy silent check reel . These outfits sold in the 1960's for$50. Current value in EX. cond. $300. They had a special short taper5wt. line designed for them called the Banty Fly Line. As for the A&FBanty Bamboo rod , these were made for A&F by Orvis and are real "broomSticks". A maker is better off working out his own taper than using thatone. The Glass rod is a much- much better caster. Marty I hope you will all bear with my ignorance in posting to a listserver(first time) and my lack of rod knowledge.I joined this listserver after an internet search directed me to thisarea.My father liked to fish and while he never had a lot of time nor a vastcollection of rods, he did have one that may be theitem you describe in your posting.I have the rod in front of me now. It is very short- 2 small sections,cork handled - odd bronzish colour to the body. Thereis a label near the handle in text black stating "Abercrombie & Fitch -New York - Chicago - San Francisco and about two inchesfurther up the rod is, in quotations " Banty 44" followed immediately by"-1 ok" not in quotes. The banty text appears tobe written directly on the rod. The joints (ferrules?) are gold or brassin colour and the 4 guides and top piece are steel coloured.Anything you could tell me about this rod would be greatly appreciated.My father used a a tiny 2 1/2" by 1in wide reel engraved on its back as" Made by Hardy Bros. Ltd. England for Abercrombie and Fitch co. TheFlyweight Silent Check" Thank you al fror your indulgence. Can anyone on the list supply me with a taper for the Hardy 4'4" BantyRod they produced for the New York sporting goods store AbercrombieandFitch ?Any other details about this particular model would also beappreciated.Hardy's have one of these rods in there museum in Alnwick, England but all attempts to get an inspection of the rod or details released havebeen unsuccesful. from saltwein@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 14 05:41:39 2000 e9EAfcG26015 ;Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:41:32 +0000 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes snip..............As far as I can see the nodes look exactly the same ground/sanded as thaydopressed and planed. Tony At 01:26 PM 10/13/00 -0500, Bob Nunley wrote: Tony, If you have a scanner or a digital camera, I would be interested inseeing the end result of your ground nodes. If this process could beshortened it would take a heap of time from building. I have always seenit as a strictly cosmetic issue. Regards, Steve from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Oct 14 07:25:29 2000 e9ECPSG26908 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 07:26:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes I find this thread extremely interesting, as I have examined my PHY rods,and in some areas, I find it difficult to even find a node ! These rods came from the early, to mid-1950 era, and have never seemed to lack in power, orto have changed any ! I'd sure like to hear bob Summers, comments on howthis was done, while he was with Paul. GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Oct 14 07:34:54 2000 e9ECYrG27131 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 07:36:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Ferrule making supplies Dave has the reaming exactly right, ferrules or whatever. It's always bestto use 2 or 3 smaller pilot sizes, working up to the final drill size beforereaming. I've found softer metals, such as alum., brass, or N.S., cut easierand more accurately by using parabolic fluted drills. N.S. is a softermat'l. when compared to steels. There is a better way to drill and ream, than just using the scale on mosttail stock quills. This involves making a split collar plate affair, thatclamps onto the tail stock quill. Then mounting a dial indicator, that iszeroed against this plate. You can then know to the nearest .001", how deepyou are drilling the hole. I have a photo of this set up, I can send toanyone interested. GMA from Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de Sat Oct 14 09:36:22 2000 e9EEaLG00073 fwd02.sul.t-online.com Subject: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Hello list, I've ordered a rough out beveller from Golden Witch and I need a voltageconverter from 220 V -> 110 V for it. I live in Germany and can't findsuch a converter in any shop. Could you guys (especially the Europeans,hi Stefan Grau and Stuart Moultrie) help me out? Thanks a lot Ralf from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sat Oct 14 09:36:50 2000 e9EEanG00143 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 15:36:43 +0100 Subject: Re: Abercrombie & Fitch Hardy Banty Rods Marty,I assumed the rod to be bamboo as I am not aware that Hardy producedfibreglass rods before the JET models in the 60's/early70's.........perhaps James can advise what the material is ?As for Bamboo Bantys being made by Orvis this is also true, they werethe other A@F Bamboo Banty manufacturer together with Hardy .I have made a copy of the Hardy Bamboo Banty using a taper kindlysupplied by one of the list members and I must say it fishes with a 4#rather well. marty wrote: Hi James, What you have there is an A&F Banty Fiberglass rod andmatching Hardy silent check reel . These outfits sold in the 1960's for$50. Current value in EX. cond. $300. They had a special short taper5wt. line designed for them called the Banty Fly Line. As for the A&FBanty Bamboo rod , these were made for A&F by Orvis and are real "broomSticks". A maker is better off working out his own taper than using thatone. The Glass rod is a much- much better caster. Marty I hope you will all bear with my ignorance in posting to a listserver(first time) and my lack of rod knowledge.I joined this listserver after an internet search directed me to thisarea.My father liked to fish and while he never had a lot of time nor a vastcollection of rods, he did have one that may be theitem you describe in your posting.I have the rod in front of me now. It is very short- 2 small sections,cork handled - odd bronzish colour to the body. Thereis a label near the handle in text black stating "Abercrombie & Fitch -New York - Chicago - San Francisco and about two inchesfurther up the rod is, in quotations " Banty 44" followed immediately by"-1 ok" not in quotes. The banty text appears tobe written directly on the rod. The joints (ferrules?) are gold or brassin colour and the 4 guides and top piece are steel coloured.Anything you could tell me about this rod would be greatly appreciated.My father used a a tiny 2 1/2" by 1in wide reel engraved on its back as" Made by Hardy Bros. Ltd. England for Abercrombie and Fitch co. TheFlyweight Silent Check" Thank you al fror your indulgence. Can anyone on the list supply me with a taper for the Hardy 4'4" BantyRod they produced for the New York sporting goods store AbercrombieandFitch ?Any other details about this particular model would also beappreciated.Hardy's have one of these rods in there museum in Alnwick, Englandbut all attempts to get an inspection of the rod or details released havebeen unsuccesful. from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sat Oct 14 09:51:50 2000 [62.253.162.47] (may be forged)) e9EEpnG00640 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 15:51:44 +0100 Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Try RS Components, if they don't have it, it doesn't exist !www.rs- components.comwww.rs-components.co.ukJust one point of note.......will the US motors work on your powersupply, i.e are the phases equivalent ?Regards.........Paul Ralf Ladda wrote: Hello list, I've ordered a rough out beveller from Golden Witch and I need a voltageconverter from 220 V -> 110 V for it. I live in Germany and can't findsuch a converter in any shop. Could you guys (especially the Europeans,hi Stefan Grau and Stuart Moultrie) help me out? Thanks a lot Ralf from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Oct 14 12:38:59 2000 e9EHcwG03064 10:38:58 PDT Subject: varnish stuff all, i lost my notes! what is the name of theproduct you can spray ontop of your varnish in the canbefore you close the lid to displace the oxygen andwho is the supplier? thanks! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Oct 14 13:00:59 2000 e9EI0wG03500 Subject: Found another line In pawing through my fly-tying room I found another silk line and sohave started another contest on my webpage. This month's question shouldbe a puzzler!Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Oct 14 13:21:54 2000 e9EILrG04090 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: varnish stuff Hi Timothy, The stuff I have is called Bloxegen. I bought mine throughWoodcraft Co. Marty all, i lost my notes! what is the name of theproduct you can spray ontop of your varnish in the canbefore you close the lid to displace the oxygen andwho is the supplier? thanks! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Oct 14 13:29:28 2000 e9EITSG04402 Subject: Newmin Organization: GOULD This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C035D1.F528C260 Hey Newmin, send me your email address so I can help you on rod =straightening.Ray Gould ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C035D1.F528C260 Hey Newmin, send me your emailaddress = help you on rod straightening.RayGould ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C035D1.F528C260-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Sat Oct 14 15:38:45 2000 e9EKciG06730 Subject: Re: varnish stuff FWIW, I just got a can from Russ at Goldenwitch. He's just startedcarrying it. mac marty wrote: Hi Timothy, The stuff I have is called Bloxegen. I bought mine throughWoodcraft Co. Marty all, i lost my notes! what is the name of theproduct you can spray ontop of your varnish in the canbefore you close the lid to displace the oxygen andwho is the supplier? thanks! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Oct 14 18:21:14 2000 e9ENLDG09766 Subject: Cork rings slipping Friends,I use a home-made cork clamp to compress cork ringson the rod before turning my grips. The cork clamp is twopieces of 1x2 lumber connected with four eye-bolts, wingnuts, and two small chains. When I tighten the wing nuts,the boards press the cork together.Lately I've noticed that the corks tend to slideeither up or down, giving me a problem with reel seatspacing. I've solved it by adding a ring if the space isnear the reel seat, or sanding off a ring if the cork hasslid down.Guess I'm asking if anyone has a simple, yetelegant, solution to keep the cork from sliding out ofplace. I've tried gluing the first ring in place a day orso before the others, but the pressure from the clamp seemsto move that ring anyway. Any ideas? Thanks in advance,Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from bob@downandacross.com Sat Oct 14 18:28:56 2000 e9ENStG10009 Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Harry:Have you tried big flat washers on either end before clamping. This keeps my handles really tight. I guess they are 1.5" and have about a .400 hole. This way they don't leave rings indented in the cork.Is this what you were asking?Best regards,Bob At 06:19 PM 10/14/00 -0500, you wrote:Friends,I use a home-made cork clamp to compress cork ringson the rod before turning my grips. The cork clamp is twopieces of 1x2 lumber connected with four eye-bolts, wingnuts, and two small chains. When I tighten the wing nuts,the boards press the cork together.Lately I've noticed that the corks tend to slideeither up or down, giving me a problem with reel seatspacing. I've solved it by adding a ring if the space isnear the reel seat, or sanding off a ring if the cork hasslid down.Guess I'm asking if anyone has a simple, yetelegant, solution to keep the cork from sliding out ofplace. I've tried gluing the first ring in place a day orso before the others, but the pressure from the clamp seemsto move that ring anyway. Any ideas? Thanks in advance,Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from caneman@clnk.com Sat Oct 14 19:07:40 2000 e9F07dG10795 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Harry,Yep, they'll slip every time if you don't watch them. What I do is markwhere the lower ring is going to go on the butt end, put a couple of roundsof masking tape around it so that the ring will butt up to the tape. Afteryou tighten your clamp, it may move... the tape will help keep it frommoving down, but if it moves up, just lightly tap it with a rubber malletuntil the tape is against the bottom cork ring.Another thing that will help. I'm assuming you have two round holes inyour cork vise. cut the hole in the lower one halfway all the way throughto one side... in other words, cut from each side of the hole, a straightline to the outside, so you can better see whether the cork is slipping ornot, this will also give you a little more room to wipe off any excessadhesive that oozes out of the end.One more trick... since you are using a wooden cork vise, I bet you'vealready found out that it doesn't take much stray adhesive to make your gripa part of the cork vise... cut out squares of wax paper and lay them betweenthe cork and the wood. This will peel right off of the cork and gives you abarrier between the wood and the grip so it won't stick. Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Cork rings slipping Friends,I use a home-made cork clamp to compress cork ringson the rod before turning my grips. The cork clamp is twopieces of 1x2 lumber connected with four eye-bolts, wingnuts, and two small chains. When I tighten the wing nuts,the boards press the cork together.Lately I've noticed that the corks tend to slideeither up or down, giving me a problem with reel seatspacing. I've solved it by adding a ring if the space isnear the reel seat, or sanding off a ring if the cork hasslid down.Guess I'm asking if anyone has a simple, yetelegant, solution to keep the cork from sliding out ofplace. I've tried gluing the first ring in place a day orso before the others, but the pressure from the clamp seemsto move that ring anyway. Any ideas? Thanks in advance,Harry--Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Oct 14 19:48:17 2000 e9F0mBG11411 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 17:48:09 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Bob,Heck, my rings slip even when I AM watching them! Masking tape as a stopblock -- that's the simple solution I was looking for. Thanks Bob. Good adviceall the way around. BTW - how did you figure out that a wooden cork vise willeasily glue itself to the rod? I hope you learned more easily than I did. I'llbetca I've screwed up just about every way imaginable. Some of thosemistakes Ionly made once.... Thanks,Harry Bob Nunley wrote: Harry,Yep, they'll slip every time if you don't watch them. What I do is markwhere the lower ring is going to go on the butt end, put a couple of roundsof masking tape around it so that the ring will butt up to the tape. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Oct 14 20:11:27 2000 e9F1BQG11802 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Ralph Moon Ralph,The package arrived safely today. I'll do my part tomorrow and getthings moving to Richard. Sorry to put this on the list, folks, but Ideleted Ralph's previous message without thinking about it. Harry Boyd from MasjC1@aol.com Sat Oct 14 20:53:23 2000 e9F1rMG12514 Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Harry, I had the same problem. The solution I came up with was to add a stop block at the end of the press. The contraption looks something like below (if my ASCII art works) I II II I___I__I__ adjustableI II I___I__I__ adjustableI I___I__I__ fixed The "I"s are 1/4" threaded rod and the underlines "_"are wood blocks. The first 2 blocks have a slot to accept the rod shaft. These slots are centered in the blocks The bottom block has an indentation to accept the rod butt.The lower block is fixed in place and the other two are adjustable. The second block is adjusted with wing nuts so that the correct spacing for the reel seat is maintained between it and the lower fixed block. This provides the correct distance for the particular reel seat being used. When the upper block is compressed during cork gluing The lower cork cannot ride up the rod shaft and increase the rod length in the reel seat area as the lower cork cannot move. Only the upper cork moves to provide compression. This solved my problem of compressing the cork from two directions which lengthened the reel seat dimension. It is very simple, but I would be pleased to bring it to SRG if anyone is interested. Mark Cole from ROBERT.KOPE@prodigy.net Sat Oct 14 21:21:14 2000 e9F2LDG13031 e9F2LBp103734;Sat, 14 Oct 2000 22:21:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Enamel and sharp hexagons That's exactly the research that Bob Milward did. He took sections offiber, of standard dimensions, at various depths below the enamel. Hecompared samples from butts, mids, and top ends of culms, and fromvariousdistances away from nodes. He had these standard strips of fibers tested on a flyrod while casting, in contrast with Garrison's static calculationsthat are the basis the stress curves we are all familiar with. I forgetexactly what the bottom like was, but it was something like: the ultimaterod would be a double-built, hollow, nodeless, spiral quad. As Patrick mentioned, the results of this study are supposed to be publishedin a book that should be out soon. The book is also supposed to includeplans for many of Bob's machines, and should be a valuable addition to anyrodmaker's library. (No commercial interest, yada yada yada ...) -- Robert Kope-----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons So far I've seen reports and some numbers on the effect of taking a giventhickness of enamel/fibers off the surface of a strip or section, and it ishelpful to be able to predict the effect of various amounts of materialremoval. But I don't think the info we've seen addresses a question I findmore important - that's the question of the difference between a strip (orsection) made after minimal removal of enamel/fibers vs a strip OF THESAMEFINAL DIMENSIONS made with a greater thickness removed. The answer isprobably different for tip vs butt strips. Anyone know if this sort oftesting has been done? Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:29 AM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons removing 10 thousands from the outside surface drops tensile strength by6.6%. In bending, strength drops by 15% at the adjacent node and that theleast weakness in a rod section is with spiral node spacing or nodeless. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:11 PM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or how did hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make?timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study onthis and what he told us at corbette lake is thatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of powerfibers. He was working in conjunction with I think a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sun Oct 15 01:05:29 2000 e9F65SG16623 Sat, 14 Oct 2000 23:05:24 -0700 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 06:05:24 GMT Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V FILETIME=[E84205B0:01C0366D] From: Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de (Ralf Ladda) Subject: Converter 220 V -> 110 VDate: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 16:32:06 +0200 Hello list, I've ordered a rough out beveller from Golden Witch and I need a voltageconverter from 220 V -> 110 V for it. I live in Germany and can't findsuch a converter in any shop. Could you guys (especially the Europeans,hi Stefan Grau and Stuart Moultrie) help me out? Thanks a lot Ralf Hi Ralf, Al Bellinger(who makes the rougher for GW) uses an industrial GE 3/4 HP motor on the rougher which can be wired inside to run on either 110/115 or 220/230 so you should not need to buy anything. The wiring instructions are on a decal on the side of the motor. I believe he sends out all the machines set up for 110/115 initially.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Oct 15 04:15:21 2000 e9F9FLG18426 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Bob, My solution is always install the reel seat first and let the epoxydry. Then clamp the rings to the seat. Marty Bob,Heck, my rings slip even when I AM watching them! Masking tape as astopblock -- that's the simple solution I was looking for. Thanks Bob. Goodadviceall the way around. BTW - how did you figure out that a wooden cork visewilleasily glue itself to the rod? I hope you learned more easily than I did. I'llbetca I've screwed up just about every way imaginable. Some of thosemistakes Ionly made once.... Thanks,Harry Bob Nunley wrote: Harry,Yep, they'll slip every time if you don't watch them. What I do is markwhere the lower ring is going to go on the butt end, put a couple ofroundsof masking tape around it so that the ring will butt up to the tape. from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Oct 15 05:43:15 2000 e9FAhDG19442 Subject: enamel removal Organization: vet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00BE_01C036F0.7FC8F060 Hello all Sorry to reopen two probably discussed-out topics, but have been away a =couple of days, and these are, if not exactly things that keep me awake =at night, at least they are subjects that I think about at times when I =should be concentrating on something else; like driving the car, or =getting a good drift, or important stuff like that. (1) when you scrape away the enamel to "flatten" the surface, it seems =to me that the degree to which you weaken the strip will be inversely =proportional to the width of the strip ( or to some function of the =width at any rate ).So the closer you are to finished dimension when you flatten, the less =you will have to scrape away to get a relatively straight line from edge =to edge.Is that correct? Or are my spatial thingies running amok again? If it is as I think, it is a powerful argument for controlled splitting =into smallish strips; quite apart from the great saving in wasted cane, =that is! (2) I had a little difficulty deciding what the consensus was about the = It would be lovely to think that I could leave that step out of the =process as it seems to me, anyway, that the fewer times one has to =heat-soften a piece of cane, the better. Very interesting about the =Winston rods. Do those fortunate rodmakers who use the Morgan mill press their nodes? =Is this a subject on which you feel strongly, Tom? ------=_NextPart_000_00BE_01C036F0.7FC8F060 Hello all Sorry to reopen two probably = at times when I should be concentrating on something else; like driving = or getting a good drift, or important stuff like that. (1) when you scrape away the enamelto = the surface, it seems to me that the degree to which you weaken the = be inversely proportional to the width of the strip ( or to = function of the width at any rate ).So the closer you are to finished = you flatten, the less you will have to scrape away to get a relatively = line from edge to edge.Is that correct? Or are my spatial = amok again? If it is as I think, it is a powerful = controlled splitting into smallish strips; quite apart from the great = wasted cane, that is! (2) I had a little difficulty deciding = consensus was about the need for node pressing (squashing?) after = It would be lovely to think that I = step out of the process as it seems to me, anyway, that the fewer times = to heat-soften a piece of cane, the better. Very interesting about the = Do those fortunate rodmakers who use= Tom? ------=_NextPart_000_00BE_01C036F0.7FC8F060-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Sun Oct 15 06:54:45 2000 e9FBsiG20175 Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons Thanks for the info! I can guarantee he'll sell at least one copy.Especially helpful to know that ultimate rod should be a quad -- somehowwhen I add those last two hollow double built nodeless strips things go downhill in a rush. -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 9:07 PM Subject: Re: Enamel and sharp hexagons That's exactly the research that Bob Milward did. He tooksections offiber, of standard dimensions, at various depths below theenamel. Hecompared samples from butts, mids, and top ends of culms,and from variousdistances away from nodes. He had these standard strips offibers tested dynamic stresseson a flyrod while casting, in contrast with Garrison'sstatic calculationsthat are the basis the stress curves we are all familiarwith. I forgetexactly what the bottom like was, but it was something like:the ultimaterod would be a double-built, hollow, nodeless, spiral quad. As Patrick mentioned, the results of this study are supposedto be publishedin a book that should be out soon. The book is alsosupposed to includeplans for many of Bob's machines, and should be a valuableaddition to anyrodmaker's library. (No commercial interest, yada yada yada...) -- Robert Kope-----Original Message-----From: Kling, Barry W. Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:08 AMSubject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons So far I've seen reports and some numbers on the effect oftaking a giventhickness of enamel/fibers off the surface of a strip orsection, and it ishelpful to be able to predict the effect of various amountsof materialremoval. But I don't think the info we've seen addresses aquestion I findmore important - that's the question of the differencebetween a strip (orsection) made after minimal removal of enamel/fibers vs astrip OF THE SAMEFINAL DIMENSIONS made with a greater thickness removed. Theanswer isprobably different for tip vs butt strips. Anyone know ifthis sort oftesting has been done? Barry -----Original Message-----From: Coffey, Patrick W Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:29 AM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons removing 10 thousands from the outside surface dropstensile strength by6.6%. In bending, strength drops by 15% at the adjacentnode and that theleast weakness in a rod section is with spiral node spacingor nodeless. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 8:11 PM Subject: RE: Enamel and sharp hexagons patrick, what was he calling dramatic. or how did hedefine dramatic. how much diff did .050 make?timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Bob Milward is getting ready to publish a study onthis and what he told us at corbette lake is thatyou don't get a dramatic drop in strength till youremove 50 thousands from the outer surface of powerfibers. He was working in conjunction with I think a ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access fromanywhere!http://mail.yahoo.com/ from amcsmith@psouth.net Sun Oct 15 07:44:41 2000 e9FCieG20675 [12.27.191.181] rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V ralfi beleave thethe europeans use 50 cycles not 60 so your motorwill run 20% or so slower than stated on the name plateit should still workchris smith At 06:05 AM 10/15/00 +0000, Allen Thramer wrote: From: Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de (Ralf Ladda) Subject: Converter 220 V -> 110 VDate: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 16:32:06 +0200 Hello list, I've ordered a rough out beveller from Golden Witch and I need a voltageconverter from 220 V -> 110 V for it. I live in Germany and can't findsuch a converter in any shop. Could you guys (especially the Europeans,hi Stefan Grau and Stuart Moultrie) help me out? Thanks a lot RalfHi Ralf, Al Bellinger(who makes the rougher for GW) uses an industrial GE 3/4 HP motor on the rougher which can be wired inside to run on either 110/115 or 220/230 so you should not need to buy anything. The wiring instructions are on a decal on the side of the motor. I believe he sends out all the machines set up for 110/115 initially.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from bob@downandacross.com Sun Oct 15 08:36:33 2000 e9FDaWG21800 Subject: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 --=====================_3129998==_.ALT Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, without profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense to this information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sure you don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have already committed to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_3129998==_.ALT Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premierissue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy itthoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. Itcan be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will needAdobe Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial,without profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not takeoffense to this information. If you do, please contact me off-list and Iwill make sure you don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who havealready committed to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_3129998==_.ALT-- from cbogart@shentel.net Sun Oct 15 08:50:36 2000 e9FDoZG22079 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:50:34 -0400 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" (5.0.2195;1) Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Bob Very good job - and who said we will miss "that rag". This may be theway to go for us - printing costs are just about right. Keep up the good work and look forward to the second issue (alwaysthe hardest). Small suggestion - I know you have to keep the size of the file down - this screen optimized is good for reading and reference but . . . you maywant to offer the option of a print optimized version with high quality graphics ifthe person is willing to pay the download size penalty inorder to get picturequalityto print out and see detail. Regards Chris --Original Message Text--- Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue ofmy online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, shareit with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense tothis information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sure youdon't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have alreadycommitted to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_ Bob Very good job - and who said we will miss "that rag". This may be theway to go for us - printing costs are just about right. Keep up the good work and look forward to the second issue (alwaysthe hardest). Small suggestion - I know you have to keep the size of the file down - this screen optimized is good for reading and reference but . . . you maywant to offer the option of a print optimized version with high quality graphics ifthe person is willing to pay the download size penalty inorder to get picturequalityto print out and see detail. Regards Chris --Original Message Text---From: bob maulucciDate: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:35:36 -0400 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue ofmy online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, shareit with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense tothis information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sureyou don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have alreadycommitted to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4963456=_=_=_-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Sun Oct 15 08:58:57 2000 e9FDwuG22346 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C036B0.0CD67860 Bob - This is tremendous. Anyone offended by anything in it had better justcontribute a (civil) article on the subject. All you deserve is gratitudeand appreciation. If there's anything I can do to help, please let meknow.....Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue ofmy online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, shareit with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdf It is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense tothis information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sureyou don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have alreadycommitted to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines ------_=_NextPart_001_01C036B0.0CD67860 0DocumentEmail 9.35 =pt6.35 pt B=ob – Thisis tremendous. Anyone offended by anything in it had better just =contribute a(civil) article on the subject. All you deserve is gratitude and =appreciation.If there’s anything I can do to help, please let me =know…..Barry -----OriginalMessage-----From: bob maulucci Sent: Sunday, October =15, 20008:36 AM rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Power Fibers =OnlineMagazine, Take 1 Greetings:= As promised,I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue of my online =bamboorod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, share it with a =friend,andcontribute to it in the future. It can be found at:= http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdf= It is a quick1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need Adobe Acrobat =Reader toview it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.com= I=would liketo make a point that this project is non-commercial, without profit oradvertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense to thisinformation. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sure =youdon't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.= Thanks toeveryone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have already =committed toissue 2. Best regards,= Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines == ------_=_NextPart_001_01C036B0.0CD67860-- from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sun Oct 15 09:10:25 2000 e9FEAPG22615 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0ABA_01C03690.E268BF80 Hi, I only got to browse it quickly since I'm at the office this morning :-( = I do have one question though. What is that thing on the cover? Paul Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:35 AMSubject: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier =issue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it =thoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. =It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need =Adobe Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at =http://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, =without profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take =offense to this information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I =will make sure you don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have =already committed to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Maulucci Power Fibers Online Magazine ------=_NextPart_000_0ABA_01C03690.E268BF80 Hi, I only got to browse it quickly since = office this morning :-( but it looks great. I do have one question though. What is= on the cover? Paul ----- Original Message ----- maulucci Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000= AMSubject: Power Fibers Online = Take 1 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier = of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it = it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found =at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will = Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.comI would like to make a point that this project is non- commercial, = profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense = information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make = don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have = committed to issue 2. MagazineSplit = and Silk Lines ------=_NextPart_000_0ABA_01C03690.E268BF80-- from lblan@provide.net Sun Oct 15 09:12:45 2000 e9FECjG22803 Subject: RE: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C03690.7A171EE0 Wow... outstanding effort! May not miss that *other* mag after all! Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:36 AM Subject: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue ofmy online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, shareit with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense tothis information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sureyou don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have alreadycommitted to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C03690.7A171EE0 outstanding effort! May not miss that *other* mag after =all! Larry Blan maulucciSent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:36 = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Power Fibers Online = Take 1Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier = of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it = it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found =at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will = Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.comI would like to make a point that this project is non- commercial, = profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense = information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make = don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have = committed to issue 2. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C03690.7A171EE0-- from owen@davies.mv.com Sun Oct 15 09:14:45 2000 e9FEEiG22962 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 There have been a couple of references lately to theMorgan hand mill. This is new since I last tried to keepup with the mailing list. It will be a long time before I haveany legitimate use for such a tool, but my curiosity is up.Can someone tell me where to learn more about it? Many thanks. Owen Davies from lblove@omniglobal.net Sun Oct 15 09:20:59 2000 e9FEKwG23221 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Tom's site is at http://www.troutrods.com/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 There have been a couple of references lately to theMorgan hand mill. This is new since I last tried to keepup with the mailing list. It will be a long time before I haveany legitimate use for such a tool, but my curiosity is up.Can someone tell me where to learn more about it? Many thanks. Owen Davies from bob@downandacross.com Sun Oct 15 09:26:14 2000 e9FEQEG23422 Subject: Hand Mill I would go right to the source. Tom Morgan (http://www.troutrods.com/) is a fantastic person who will give you a super brochure and answer any questions you have. His site has nice info.Also, Bill Lamberson did a fine review of the Hand Mill in the Planing Form. (Within the last year.) I would see if Ron Barch has a back issue. The Planing Form is a must anyway.Contact me off list if you need more info.Bob At 10:14 AM 10/15/00 -0400, you wrote:There have been a couple of references lately to theMorgan hand mill. This is new since I last tried to keepup with the mailing list. It will be a long time before I haveany legitimate use for such a tool, but my curiosity is up.Can someone tell me where to learn more about it? Many thanks. Owen Davies from bob@downandacross.com Sun Oct 15 09:39:05 2000 e9FEd4G23833 Subject: Online Mag --=====================_6884431==_.ALT Guys,I just wanted to add that the mag will shoot for quarterly for now. See you in December.Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_6884431==_.ALT Guys, I just wanted to add that the mag will shoot for quarterly for now. Seeyou in December. Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_6884431==_.ALT-- from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Oct 15 09:41:09 2000 e9FEf8G23990 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 15:41:07 +0100 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Bob,I have just tried to download Acrobat Reader and it would appear it willtake me circa 58 minutes to download......is thisnormal?????????.....Paul bob maulucci wrote: Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premierissue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy itthoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute to it in the future.It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will needAdobe Acrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial,without profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not takeoffense to this information. If you do, please contact me off-list andI will make sure you don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who havealready committed to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Oct 15 09:49:55 2000 e9FEnsG24312 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 09:51:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Isn't Europe and the U.K. on DC, not AC ? I can't find my razor converter,used when I was there, to check. GMA from owen@davies.mv.com Sun Oct 15 10:29:35 2000 e9FFTYG25003 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 I wrote: There have been a couple of references lately to theMorgan hand mill. (etc.) Oops! Sorry I blew the subject line. I started out to saywhat a great job Bob had done on the magazine. Can'tthink where that message got to. Which reminds me: Wonderful first issue, Bob! Best of luck withfuture editions. Owen Davies from cathcreek@hotmail.com Sun Oct 15 10:35:53 2000 e9FFZqG25229 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 08:35:47 -0700 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 15:35:47 GMT Subject: Was:Yet again guide spacing Now: Fishing FILETIME=[97266A90:01C036BD] Folks, sorry for the late reply on this thread and for keeping it alive (A.J. :)) I have been burried in my other job (the one that I pay the bills with)and have not kept up with my email. I have the same issue that I have fished less than 6 times this year. A few of us in Oregon tried to get together last month and just fish bamboo. Unfortunately, I didn't make it there because of work and I think some others didn't either. I would suggest to the list that folks get together to just fish and that they actually follow through with it and fish (unlike me). No lawn casting, no wiggling. Just bring rods that you fish with and that you would let your buddies fish with and do it. I think we will really do it someday in Oregon. Maybe it would work elsewhere too. My rodmaking is taking a back seat to other things as of late and I actually don't want any more rod orders til I catch up with the next 3 rods. (ok, 4 if you count the one for me) Sorry for keeping this going. I will crawl back under my rock for a while. Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com p.s. Great job to Bob M for the online mag!!!! _________________________________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. from MasjC1@aol.com Sun Oct 15 10:57:19 2000 e9FFvIG25604 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Bob, Great effort. I can't wait for the second issue. Keep up the great work. Mark Cole from jhiggs@home.com Sun Oct 15 11:27:45 2000 e9FGRiG26130 0700 Subject: Re: Abercrombie & Fitch Hardy Banty Rods Sorry Paul, I believe Marty is correct and the rod must befibreglass.Sorry for dashing any hopes. I did warn all of my ignorance.I thank all of you who responded to my post. I can't believe there is somuch specific knowledge out there. If I may beg your indulgence further,I got the rest of my fathers rods out from the back of the garage and ifyou can indicate anything regarding the value or general information onthe following I would be most appreciative. One rod is a fibreglass rod with the label "Montague " on it. Thewrappings are alternating blue and white, a 3 piece rod 8 1/2 ' inlength. The label is marked "Holloglass" Another rod is (I'm going out on a limb here in respect of my pastperformance!) cane labeled "Sunlight N.K.K. Made in Tokyo Japan" itis a 3 piece rod in an odd seven sided not octagonal cross section. The last rod has its original black metal tube stamped Heddon , blackcloth wrapping and label. The label is marked "Genuine Hedon SplitBamboo Rod" Then goes on to describe the "Rod with the Fighting Heart"It is a 3 piece rod with an extra 3rd piece. The rod is marked upon itin black "Black Beauty #17 8 1/2' 2F HD Har &" "Heddon" THe final item I have of his, although it seems to me I am missing areel somewhere is a reel. It is 3 3/8" across by 1 3/8" wide. Brushedaluminum faced and a sort of pebbled bronze/brown rear. There is markingwithin a small aluminum disk on the rear indicating "77 OceanCity Madein Philadelphia". Another small disk (tension?) near the bottom of therear face is marked "CDEFGH HEH HDH HCH GBG" clockwise. I am aware these items are likely all very common but if any of youhave any interest I can get some digital photos posted and supply thegroup with the URL. Thank you all once again for your insight. What you have there is an A&F Banty Fiberglass rod andmatching Hardy silent check reel . These outfits sold in the 1960's for$50. Current value in EX. cond. $300. They had a special short taper5wt. line designed for them called the Banty Fly Line. As for the A&FBanty Bamboo rod , these were made for A&F by Orvis and are real "broomSticks". from jourdoktorn@chello.se Sun Oct 15 11:29:58 2000 e9FGTvG26280 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.00 201-232-116 license13ed6d939a101f33a28aa8ad6d2fac65) Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:29:25 +0200 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 --------------F210970CE4950923A87B115F Bob,this magazine is a great work! I live in Sweden and am very impressed.Hope you can keep up the good work and look forward to the second issue. Regards,Jan Nystrom bob maulucci wrote: Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted thepremier issue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope youenjoy it thoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute to it inthe future. It can be foundat:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfIt is a quick 1 minuteor so download on a 56k modem. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader toview it. This can be downloaded for free at http://www.adobe.comIwould like to make a point that this project is non-commercial,without profit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not takeoffense to this information. If you do, please contact me off-list andI will make sure you don't get this info when issue 2 rollsaround.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all whohave already committed to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --------------F210970CE4950923A87B115F Bob, impressed.Hope you can keep up the good work and look forward to the second issue.Regards,Jan Nystrom bob maulucci wrote:Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finishedand posted the premier issue of my online bamboo rod making magazine. Ihope you enjoy it thoroughly, share it with a friend,and contribute toit in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfItis a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.comIwould like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offenseto this information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will makesure you don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyonewho contributed to issue 1 and to all who have already committed to issue2.Best regards,Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPowerFibersOnline MagazineSplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --------------F210970CE4950923A87B115F-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Oct 15 11:33:31 2000 e9FGXUG26502 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 11:34:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping You could try just tack gluing each ring, with a couple of tiny spots ofglue. Or slide rings of rough sandpaper on between each ring. They could bea doubled up piece, cut a little smaller that the grip O.D. ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Oct 15 11:46:47 2000 e9FGkkG26831 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 11:48:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping In modeling with soft balsa, we tack glue pieces for carving, with a sheetof newspaper in between, each piece. Then these come apart very easily,without damage to the wood. GMA from piscator@crosswinds.net Sun Oct 15 12:46:58 2000 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 The thing looks like Paul Young's old "Ring of Fire," that's hoe heflame tempered his cane. Bob, Outstanding e-zine. Congratulations!! Brian from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sun Oct 15 13:05:26 2000 e9FI5PG29289 ;Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:05:24 +0200 Subject: Sv: Converter 220 V -> 110 V e9FI5QG29290 No, we're on 220v 50 herz AC regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Isn't Europe and the U.K. on DC, not AC ? I can't find my razor converter,used when I was there, to check. GMA from rp43640@online-club.de Sun Oct 15 13:40:24 2000 e9FIeNG00077 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:40:33 +0200 (METDST) Liste Subject: Re: Sv: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Carsten, small correction since a few years ago Europe has a harmonised voltage 230V(+/- 10%) 50 Hzand for 3 phase 400 V (was 380 V) Christian Carsten Jorgensen wrote: No, we're on 220v 50 herz AC regards,carsten ----- Original Message -----From: nobler Cc: Liste Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 4:55 PMSubject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V Isn't Europe and the U.K. on DC, not AC ? I can't find my razor converter,used when I was there, to check. GMA from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Oct 15 14:19:22 2000 e9FJJLG01607 VL-MS-MR001.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) Subject: RE: Ferrule making supplies Experiment with your bits first, to see what size hole they willdrill. Here's a dumb question: how do you accurately measure the size of a holedrilled by your bits? Thanks, Richard from flyrod@pop.digisys.net Sun Oct 15 15:20:19 2000 e9FKKJG02684 Subject: wow Howdy all, It's good to be back after a week of chasing antelope in eastern Montana. Had a great trip, five hunters, five nice 'loper bucks. I'll put some pics on the website when they come come back from the processer. Looks like a lot going on as I had 350 + emails! Bobs Online mag is incredible, hope everyone checked it out. Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from flyrod@pop.digisys.net Sun Oct 15 15:20:24 2000 e9FKKOG02693 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Great job Bob ! Keep it up Jim Flinchbaughflyrod@digisys.nethttp://www.digisys.net/users/flyrod from bob@downandacross.com Sun Oct 15 17:36:27 2000 e9FMaQG05312 Subject: Power Fibers Changes --=====================_35529370==_.ALT Hi:Made some small changes to the text in my quad article. Subtract .004 for varnish. Also, thanks tp Roch Margiotta for the taper in the first place.http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfBest regards,Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_35529370==_.ALT Hi:Made some small changes to the text in my quad article. Subtract.004 for varnish. Also, thanks tp Roch Margiotta for the taper in thefirst place.http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfBest regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplitCane Fly Rods and Silk Lines --=====================_35529370==_.ALT-- from richjez@enteract.com Sun Oct 15 17:58:00 2000 e9FMvxG05770 Subject: Re: Converter 220 V -> 110 V --=====================_14982528==_.ALT The UK and Europe is on 240 volts, 50 cycle AC. DC won't carry far over wires. When they first wired Chicago and other cities, it was in DC. The line resistance caused substantial voltage drops more than a few blocks from the power station. So I have been told by a electrician uncle.RIch Jezioro At 09:55 AM 10/15/00, nobler wrote:Isn't Europe and the U.K. on DC, not AC ? I can't find my razor converter,used when I was there, to check. GMA *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):>-- =====================_14982528==_.ALT The UK and Europe is on 240 volts, 50 cycle AC. DC won'tcarry far over wires. When they first wired Chicago and other cities, itwas in DC. The line resistance caused substantial voltage drops more thana few blocks from the power station. So I have been told by a electricianuncle.RIch Jezioro At 09:55 AM 10/15/00, nobler wrote:Isn't Europe and the U.K. on DC, not AC ? Ican't find my razor converter,used when I was there, to check. GMA *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_14982528==_.ALT-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Oct 15 17:58:28 2000 e9FMwSG05835 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 17:58:28 -0500 , Subject: Re: Ferrule making supplies A hole gauge will get you close, but intra-mics start at about $275 ! Thelittle ball gauges get you close enough to know where you are. These arejust a few bucks, for a set. GMA from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Oct 15 18:10:48 2000 e9FNAlG06350 Subject: Got a question I had two butt sections and three tip sectionsthat I had just applied Epon glue and rolled upready to bind. I was cleaning some glue off mygloves with vinegar and dropped the bottle on thework bench. About 8 " of all the sticks got wet. Iopened the sticks up, wiped them down the best Icould and reapplied Epon to the wiped off areas. Iknow I should not had the bottle where it could ofspilled on the sticks, It wont happen again.My question, would these blanks be ok to use orjust scrap them. They are bound and hanging now.A lot of work to throw out.Thanks in advance.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Oct 15 18:35:32 2000 e9FNZWG07017 Subject: Re: Ferrule making supplies rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu In a message dated 10/15/2000 3:19:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: Richard, You can use either a digital caliper or a bore gaugeif you have one. If you want a true reading, all the way down the bore, you will need a bore gauge. When checking a "drilled" hole, Ijust use my caliper. That will give me a good enough reading, soI will know how much I have to ream, because I don't like reamingmore than .005in. at a crack. It's hard on the reamer. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Oct 15 19:08:48 2000 e9G08lG07807 VL-MS-MR001.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) 15 Oct 2000 20:08:47 -0400 Subject: Mystery rod Hello, Can anyone identify the following rod: http://pages.infinit.net/rnantel/unknown1.jpg http://pages.infinit.net/rnantel/unknown2.jpg Details: The rod is 9ft, 3-piece, two-tip. Blued nickle silver ferruleswith an interesting welt to the ferrules (see pictures), agate stripperguide, non-tube tip-tops (sorry, don't know the names of the tip-tops thatare actually two metal strips that pinch a couple of opposing flats), metaluplocking reel seat (chromed ?), dark red wraps, reverse half-wells grip.Also, not pictured is a signature wrap about six inches up from the gripwhich consists of a one-inch wide area where the thread is wrapped in acriss-cross pattern. I'm trying to figure out whether I should restore this or not. Many thanks, Richard from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Oct 15 19:21:33 2000 e9G0LWG08128 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 In a message dated 10/15/2000 9:37:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bob@downandacross.com writes: Bob, Great job. I'm impressed. I think this is a great idea.Keep up the good work. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun Oct 15 19:25:03 2000 e9G0P2G08333 VL-MS-MR002.sc1.videotron.ca (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) 15 Oct 2000 20:25:02 -0400 Subject: Grand River Gathering Would anyone know if there are plans to have a Grand River Gathering nextspring? Richard from anglport@con2.com Sun Oct 15 22:07:23 2000 e9G37MG11931 Subject: Wooden tube supplies All,I don't know who was asking, but I just got a copy of The WoodcraftCatalog and it has veneer tubing by the foot and cappings in brass. Thecost is close to prohibitive to my mind, $5 - $9 a foot for the tube andbrass caps @ $20 for 2" diam. but it's in there if you want/need it.Their website is at www.woodcraft.com and the phone is 800-225-1153. Thestuff is on p 156.No yadayada,Art from bob@downandacross.com Sun Oct 15 22:13:29 2000 e9G3DTG12201 Subject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut his ferrule stations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these tools something used today in machining? Someone asked me about these and although I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from gjm80301@yahoo.com Sun Oct 15 22:30:40 2000 e9G3UYG12741 2000 20:30:32 PDT Subject: Re: Power Fibers Changes Hi bob. Magazine looks great. It gives folks a better format than an emailto describe worthwhile techniques, etc. I'm trying to remember where we are. Your last note said I would getdt 4 soon. Hasit been sent yet? Jerry--- bob maulucci wrote: Hi:Made some small changes to the text in my quad article. Subtract.004 for varnish. Also, thanks tp Roch Margiotta for the taper in the firstplace.http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfBest regards,Bob Mauluccidownandacross.comPower Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Oct 15 22:33:02 2000 e9G3X0G12887 Mail VirusWall NT); Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:23:23 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Top shelf Bob ! Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Greetings:As promised, I have just recently finished and posted the premier issue ofmy online bamboo rod making magazine. I hope you enjoy it thoroughly, shareit with a friend,and contribute to it in the future. It can be found at:http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdf It is a quick 1 minute or so download on a 56k modem. You will need AdobeAcrobat Reader to view it. This can be downloaded for free athttp://www.adobe.com I would like to make a point that this project is non-commercial, withoutprofit or advertisement. I hope therefore that you do not take offense tothis information. If you do, please contact me off-list and I will make sureyou don't get this info when issue 2 rolls around.Thanks to everyone who contributed to issue 1 and to all who have alreadycommitted to issue 2.Best regards, Bob Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit Cane Fly Rods and Silk Lines from rmoon@ida.net Sun Oct 15 22:38:48 2000 e9G3cmG13218 Subject: Re: Got a question TonyI get in a fix like this all too often. Think of the worst. You throwthem away. On the other hand finish them up and if they don't go tohell on you you are ahead of the game. and then can throw them out. Chances are they will be ok, if you got the mess cleaned up quicklyRalph from gjm80301@yahoo.com Sun Oct 15 22:41:12 2000 e9G3fBG13408 2000 20:41:12 PDT Subject: Sanding Nodes The discussion the last couple of days inspired me to give this atry. I built a small fence for my 1" x 30" belt sander so that the beltwas flush with surrounding enamel and sanded ridges off a whole culm.It generally cut a 3/4" swath around the culm with not collaateraldamage. To clean it up, I then sanded each node lengthwise with 100grit on a block. I ended up with almost (very close) flat nodeareas. Then split in half and flamed medium. Split the culm andsanded the enamel off a couple of 1/4" strips. The nodes blend in so well that they can be hard to see and seem nolarger than normal to me. I'm going to try this on an few rods. Thanks. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from bamboo@pa.net Sun Oct 15 23:27:01 2000 e9G4R1G14476 Subject: straightening This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C036FF.BD85D940 The past two rods I glued up after I was done rolling on a flat surface =and playing with in all othersorts of ways, I hung up to dry with =weights attached. I used a gallon of paint on the butt section, and 2 =lb. binding weights on the tips. Worked pretty well, although no one =ever accused me of having the straightest rods in the world either. ------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C036FF.BD85D940 The past two rods I glued up after I = rolling on a flat surface and playing with in all othersorts of ways, I = although no one ever accused me of having the straightest rods in the = either. ------=_NextPart_000_0091_01C036FF.BD85D940-- from stpete@netten.net Sun Oct 15 23:47:28 2000 e9G4lRG15058 Sun, 15 Oct 2000 23:00:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Cork rings slipping Harry, my cork vices look like Mark's. Heck, I thought this was the standard.I picked that trick up on the list long ago. ONE thing I've done right. Now, cutting the blanks to the correct length on three piece rods. I'd like tohave another shot at two of the last three piecer's I've made. Tips and midscome out perfectly the same length. Overall rod is right on the money. Buttsection came out 1/2" too short on both rods. I've yet to figure out how mymathwent wrong, but at least I'm consistant. Rick MasjC1@aol.com wrote: Harry, I had the same problem. The solution I came up with was to add a stopblockat the end of the press. The contraption looks something like below (if myASCII art works) I II II I___I__I__ adjustableI II I___I__I__ adjustableI I___I__I__ fixed The "I"s are 1/4" threaded rod and the underlines "_"are wood blocks. Thefirst 2 blocks have a slot to accept the rod shaft. These slots arecenteredin the blocks The bottom block has an indentation to accept the rod butt.Thelower block is fixed in place and the other two are adjustable. The secondblock is adjusted with wing nuts so that the correct spacing for the reelseat is maintained between it and the lower fixed block. This provides thecorrect distance for the particular reel seat being used. When the upperblock is compressed during cork gluing The lower cork cannot ride up therodshaft and increase the rod length in the reel seat area as the lower corkcannot move. Only the upper cork moves to provide compression. This solved my problem of compressing the cork from two directions whichlengthened the reel seat dimension. It is very simple, but I would be pleased to bring it to SRG if anyone isinterested. Mark Cole from caneman@clnk.com Sun Oct 15 23:56:39 2000 e9G4udG15359 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, Yep, I know... and I have a set for 12's and 13's, just haven't madethe rest of them up yet. What I did was took 1/2" round stock, drill thehole in the center (desired size of ferrule station), cut a cross in it witha bandsaw, then the tedious part... file an edge on each of the flats so itwill cut the bamboo... They're just outside cutters and they're probablyavailable somewhere, but I never could find them, so I just built some tosee if they would work. They do a pretty good job, but don't just start todrive them straight onto a hex... kind round the first 1/4" or so and drivethem slowly down as far as needed with the tailstock. Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut his ferrulestations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these toolssomething used today in machining? Someone asked me about these andalthough I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from raia.c@tiscalinet.it Mon Oct 16 01:51:24 2000 e9G6pNG17621 2000 08:50:35 +0200 Subject: Swell Butt Planing Form Dear FriendsCould be possible to have in detail the mesauraments for building aSWELL BUTT PALNING FORM ( 72")I try to ask several Rodmakers but no answear or " I don't know "Is it so difficult or is a TOP SECRET ?????I hope in your helpthanks for your attention Cosimo Raia E-mail: raia.c@tiscalinet.it from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Mon Oct 16 06:30:00 2000 e9GBTxG20419 "Rodmakers \(E-mail\)" Subject: Re: Swell Butt Planing Form When I started to build my forms I found a message in the rodmakersarchives. At butt end of the form put the push/pull screws every 2.5" instead ofevery5". I was able to get a pretty steep swell on my first rod by doing this. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Swell Butt Planing Form Dear FriendsCould be possible to have in detail the mesauraments for building aSWELL BUTT PALNING FORM ( 72")I try to ask several Rodmakers but no answear or " I don't know "Is it so difficult or is a TOP SECRET ?????I hope in your helpthanks for your attention Cosimo Raia E-mail: raia.c@tiscalinet.it from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Oct 16 07:44:52 2000 e9GCipG21390 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 07:46:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations I never heard of such a cutter ! GMA from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Oct 16 08:10:22 2000 e9GDALG22459 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 06:10:07 -0700 Subject: Cutting three piece rods (was Re: Cork rings slipping) Rick,When cutting three piece rods, I find it simplest to cut the tip sectionsfirst.Cut off an excess from the tip end, then glue on the tiptop with hotmelt oranothertemporary adhesive. Then fit the ferrule, and make sure the length isexactly right,say 32.45" for an 8 foot rod.Next I fit the female ferrule on the mid. That's the tricky one. Once thefemale is installed, I measure the mid against the completed tips (again,32.45") andinstall the male ferrule accordingly.Finally, I install the ferrule on the butt section, and only then cut the buttend of the rod to length, again measuring against the already completedsections.The butt cap on REC reel seats is usually 1/10" to 1/8" thick, but I don't cutthatlast little bit off till I'm ready to fit the reel seat.Tom Penrose's page has good instruction on cutting to length. But I'vefound themethod outlined above works very well. The trick is that you install femaleferrulesbefore cutting the butt end of the section. Hope this helps,Harry Rick Crenshaw wrote: Harry, my cork vices look like Mark's. Heck, I thought this was thestandard.I picked that trick up on the list long ago. ONE thing I've done right. Now, cutting the blanks to the correct length on three piece rods. I'd liketohave another shot at two of the last three piecer's I've made. Tips andmidscome out perfectly the same length. Overall rod is right on the money. Buttsection came out 1/2" too short on both rods. I've yet to figure out howmy mathwent wrong, but at least I'm consistant. Rick MasjC1@aol.com wrote: Harry, I had the same problem. The solution I came up with was to add a stopblockat the end of the press. The contraption looks something like below (ifmyASCII art works) I II II I___I__I__ adjustableI II I___I__I__ adjustableI I___I__I__ fixed The "I"s are 1/4" threaded rod and the underlines "_"are wood blocks.Thefirst 2 blocks have a slot to accept the rod shaft. These slots arecenteredin the blocks The bottom block has an indentation to accept the rod butt.Thelower block is fixed in place and the other two are adjustable. The secondblock is adjusted with wing nuts so that the correct spacing for the reelseat is maintained between it and the lower fixed block. This provides thecorrect distance for the particular reel seat being used. When the upperblock is compressed during cork gluing The lower cork cannot ride up therodshaft and increase the rod length in the reel seat area as the lower corkcannot move. Only the upper cork moves to provide compression. This solved my problem of compressing the cork from two directionswhichlengthened the reel seat dimension. It is very simple, but I would be pleased to bring it to SRG if anyone isinterested. Mark Cole --Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Mon Oct 16 09:59:26 2000 e9GExPG27582 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Bob, Your first issue is super! I'm glad that someone picked up on my suggestion to go online with the BFR magazine. While I had hopes to get Mark to save his investment in time by going online, it seems you've come off the bench to fill his shoes. As they say in eastern PA - "More power to you!" Great premier issue and long live "Power Fibers"! Sincerely, Don Burns from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Mon Oct 16 10:55:18 2000 e9GFtFG00542 0400 Subject: OMAR NEEDHAM: Thanks This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03768.BF024F60 ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C03768.BF09F080 Just wanted to thank the list member who help me find the info on OmarNeedham that I was looking for. Had a very nice talk with Joe Garman and putnew info from him into Omar's file. Thanks once again, Tim.Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C03768.BF09F080 v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 Just wanted to thank the list =member whohelp me find the info on Omar Needham that I was looking for. Had a very =nicetalk with Joe Garman and put new info from him into Omar's file. Thanks =onceagain, Tim.FromSSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Mon Oct 16 13:41:36 2000 e9GIfZG06680 0400 Subject: ring of fire Has anybody on the list built one of these, or got the specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic - the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort of genius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? from FISHWOOL@aol.com Mon Oct 16 13:50:40 2000 e9GIoeG07112 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes Bob, Ray, et. al.As I consider a node to be a discontinuity I don't feel that sanding the nodes flat weakens the strip. I still heat and straighten in the enamel's plane but am starting to not press the "hump" out. from bending strips to destruction I've never had a node break.Just my $.02.Hank. from rmoon@ida.net Mon Oct 16 14:04:21 2000 e9GJ4KG07714 Subject: Re: Enamel and Nodes I haven't either Hank!!Ralph from handlen@megalink.net Mon Oct 16 14:13:05 2000 e9GJD5G08241 Subject: please remove me This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C03784.DC3140C0 thanky you,paul handlen ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C03784.DC3140C0 please remove me from your you, handlen ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C03784.DC3140C0-- from stuart.rod@gmx.de Mon Oct 16 14:24:08 2000 e9GJO7G08870 Subject: Nodes Wasn't there someone on the list a while back telling us non believersthat he had been planing the enamel and nodes from his strips for quitea while without seeing any problems arise? Was it Darryl.... Perhaps now that we are all ears (with the vision of asimple node solution who could blame us) he could let us have some moreinformation. Stuart Moultrie from fquinchat@locl.net Mon Oct 16 14:59:29 2000 e9GJxSG10507 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? Seems like it could twist the end of the rod off very easily. Dennis Bertram -----Original Message----- Serve Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, Yep, I know... and I have a set for 12's and 13's, just haven't madethe rest of them up yet. What I did was took 1/2" round stock, drill thehole in the center (desired size of ferrule station), cut a cross in itwitha bandsaw, then the tedious part... file an edge on each of the flats so itwill cut the bamboo... They're just outside cutters and they're probablyavailable somewhere, but I never could find them, so I just built some tosee if they would work. They do a pretty good job, but don't just start todrive them straight onto a hex... kind round the first 1/4" or so and drivethem slowly down as far as needed with the tailstock. Bob-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 10:07 PMSubject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut his ferrulestations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these toolssomething used today in machining? Someone asked me about these andalthough I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from mep@mint.net Mon Oct 16 15:12:28 2000 e9GKCRG11077 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 16:12:20 -0400 Subject: Re: Nodes Well, It wasn't me but I have always planed the enamel and nodes on mystrips! I use a Lie Nielson scraper plane and turn the edge of the blade like onewould a cabinet scraper. Works like a charm! The other thing I have done isknock the nodes down just a bit with a #50 Nicholson pattern makers raspfirst then the plane. The nodes come out smooth as glass. Mike stuart moultrie wrote: Wasn't there someone on the list a while back telling us non believersthat he had been planing the enamel and nodes from his strips for quitea while without seeing any problems arise? Was it Darryl.... Perhaps now that we are all ears (with the vision of asimple node solution who could blame us) he could let us have some moreinformation. Stuart Moultrie from cmj@post11.tele.dk Mon Oct 16 15:12:55 2000 e9GKCsG11122 +0200 Subject: Wooden rods e9GKCtG11123 Listers A friend of mine wants to build rods outof hickory. Anyone have any informationabout this? I have a copy of a 1994 article from"the Planing Form" - additional infoor URL's are welcome. regards, carsten from rcolo@ix.netcom.com Mon Oct 16 15:14:03 2000 e9GKE2G11226 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Changes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C0378B.7794DBC0 Hi Bob,I have a model #50 Edwards 8' DT5 in two piece. Would be happy to mike =it...Tell me how....Rich Colo-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 8:36 PMSubject: Power Fibers Changes Hi:Made some small changes to the text in my quad article. Subtract =.004 for varnish. Also, thanks tp Roch Margiotta for the taper in the =first place.http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdf Bob Maulucci Power Fibers Online Magazine ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C0378B.7794DBC0 Hi Bob,I have amodel = Colo -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sunday, October 15, 2000 8:36 PMSubject: PowerFibers = ChangesHi:Made some small changes to the text in my quad article. = place.http://www.downandacross.com/powerfibers1.pdfBest = Bob =Mauluccidownandacross.com Power Fibers Online MagazineSplit = and Silk Lines ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C0378B.7794DBC0-- from caneman@clnk.com Mon Oct 16 15:26:28 2000 e9GKQSG12051 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Dennies,That's exactly what it looks like... or rather what it should look like, andyep, if you try to go too fast with it, it'll eat a rod in a heartbeat. Keyis go slow, run your lathe slow, and don't get in a hurry driving this thingdown the rod and keep your cutter edges very very sharp. Yes, the rod doesrotate in the lathe. Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? Seems like it could twist the end of the rod off very easily. Dennis Bertram -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley Serve Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 11:56 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, Yep, I know... and I have a set for 12's and 13's, just haven't madethe rest of them up yet. What I did was took 1/2" round stock, drill thehole in the center (desired size of ferrule station), cut a cross in itwitha bandsaw, then the tedious part... file an edge on each of the flats soitwill cut the bamboo... They're just outside cutters and they're probablyavailable somewhere, but I never could find them, so I just built some tosee if they would work. They do a pretty good job, but don't just starttodrive them straight onto a hex... kind round the first 1/4" or so anddrivethem slowly down as far as needed with the tailstock. Bob-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 10:07 PMSubject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut his ferrulestations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these toolssomething used today in machining? Someone asked me about these andalthough I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Oct 16 15:58:39 2000 e9GKwcG13569 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:58:34 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: Wooden rods Carsten Jorgensen wrote: A friend of mine wants to build rods outof hickory. Anyone have any informationabout this? I have a copy of a 1994 article from"the Planing Form" - additional infoor URL's are welcome. Carsten,I suspect the article from TPF is the same one that's in "The Bestof TPF." Also of interest is a recent article in Rodmaker Magazine. Isuspect reprints are available, and I can look up a url if you need it. Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Oct 16 16:02:48 2000 e9GL2lG13847 14:02:40 PDT Subject: Re: ring of fire i looked into building one. it's forced air andnatural gas. the plumbers i talked to just laughrd atme. i was told i wouldn't be able to aford it. idon't think i would want it in the basement and i'msure i would be violating some code to do so but iwonder about a scaled down model and using propane. if you had a large family you could get six torches atkmart and give one to each kid :-) why couldn't aperson get 6 nozzles in a ring and run them off asingle tank? it would still needto be used in an openarea. how about mounting one on a trailer and drivingit to all the rod makers gatherings. timothy --- Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or gotthe specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic- the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort ofgenius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Oct 16 16:11:42 2000 e9GLBfG14397 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:11:35 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Web developer wanted Friends,If this is out of bounds, I sincerely apologize. I wonder if any of you are interested in developing a website for mein exchange for a rod, or other flyfishing stuff? Let's keep this offthe lists, PLEASE. Contact me at or (318)435-4359days, and (318)435-2278 at home. Thanks,Harry Boyd--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from dnorl@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 17:13:04 2000 e9GMD3G16576 (63.228.5.108) Subject: Rod case This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C03796.2EBE0100Content-Type: text/plain; Just got a cordura double rod case with separate dividers for bamboo = from Barcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industry great workmanship =very good price. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.com No =commercial interest etc. etc.Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C03796.2EBE0100 Just got a cordura double rod case= dividers for bamboo from Barcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage = commercial interest etc. etc.Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C03796.2EBE0100-- from bob@downandacross.com Mon Oct 16 17:58:25 2000 e9GMwOG17954 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: Re: ring of fire How about Martin Keane's book. There is at least some info in there. The book might be available at the library. That's were I got my look at it. At 02:42 PM 10/16/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or got the specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic - the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort of genius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Oct 16 18:05:16 2000 e9GN5DG18241 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:51:44 +0800 Subject: Re: Power Fibers Online Magazine, Take 1 Bob,very well done indeed. 10 points!!! Tony/*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from bob@downandacross.com Mon Oct 16 18:09:05 2000 e9GN94G18470 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations It's kind of like a socket with cutters on the inside the same diameter as the ferrule would be. The blank is chucked in the lathe, and the cutter is advance from the tail stock and cuts the station.It does sound dangerous though, doesn't it? However, I ask because I have noticed that the last ferrules I mounted looked skewed, probably from deflection. I know there are other remedies for this, like working the lathe correctly, but heck, this sounded interesting.Bob At 03:12 PM 10/16/00 -0500, Dennis Bertram wrote:Bob, I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? Seems like it could twist the end of the rod off very easily. Dennis Bertram -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley Serve Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 11:56 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, Yep, I know... and I have a set for 12's and 13's, just haven't madethe rest of them up yet. What I did was took 1/2" round stock, drill thehole in the center (desired size of ferrule station), cut a cross in itwitha bandsaw, then the tedious part... file an edge on each of the flats so itwill cut the bamboo... They're just outside cutters and they're probablyavailable somewhere, but I never could find them, so I just built some tosee if they would work. They do a pretty good job, but don't just start todrive them straight onto a hex... kind round the first 1/4" or so and drivethem slowly down as far as needed with the tailstock. Bob-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 10:07 PMSubject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut his ferrulestations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these toolssomething used today in machining? Someone asked me about these andalthough I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from anglport@con2.com Mon Oct 16 18:54:59 2000 e9GNswG19860 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: Re: ring of fire Yeah, Bob, Keane has 5 pgs on him and brands him a definite genius in hisworking of cane and taxidermy. If I didn't type like grass I'd send it outmyself and if I though Keane would allow it, I'd send a photocopy of themto Reed to scan into his excellently informative site.Reed, you want to chase THAT will-o-the-wisp? ;^)Art At 06:57 PM 10/16/2000 -0400, bob maulucci wrote:How about Martin Keane's book. There is at least some info in there. The book might be available at the library. That's were I got my look at it. At 02:42 PM 10/16/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or got the specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic - the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort of genius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon Oct 16 18:58:18 2000 e9GNwHG20142 with Novell_GroupWise; Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:12:20 -0700 Subject: Re: ring of fire e9GNwIG20143 Timothy, Rather then the full culm going through a ring of flame and pushing moisturedown the cells and out the ends, maybe you could try something a littledifferent and smaller scale but of the same concept. Split the culm intosixths. Build a rack (wire cage of some kind) that holds two propane bottletorches (the good torches) with spreaders attached to the nozzles such thatthe torch tips are maybe 1" apart and facing each other. Or some other kind of set up so the nozzles face each other and you canguide a sixth culm through the center of the flames. With a wire fence in place to guide the bamboo through the center of theflames, you could feed 1/6 culm sections through the "face of fire" at anequal rate. You would be getting equal heat on both sides of the mostly flatsixth culms. Flaming the pith side of a culm makes for a messy project until you get thestrips worked down some, since you'll be working with charred pith in theroughing stage, but you would be getting flame tempering that moves themoisture down the cells from both sides of a bamboo strip. Possibly resultingin more moisture being removed from the deeper fiber cells and morethorough bonding going on between the cells. Maybe. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from anglport@con2.com Mon Oct 16 19:01:03 2000 e9H012G20354 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob,I think you can get skewed ferrules no matter how you cut the stationsifthe rod isn't coaxial with the lathe. I've done it myself after thinkingall was well. A run-out indicator (machinists, some help here?) mounted onthe cross-slide and shims to adjust the setting of the blank in a 3 jaw,"self-centering" chuck will alleviate most of the problem ( a straightblank helps a lot too, of course).If that suckah ain't turnin' on the axis without runout, you're going tobe unhappy with the results!Art At 07:08 PM 10/16/2000 -0400, bob maulucci wrote:It's kind of like a socket with cutters on the inside the same diameter as the ferrule would be. The blank is chucked in the lathe, and the cutter is advance from the tail stock and cuts the station.It does sound dangerous though, doesn't it? However, I ask because I have noticed that the last ferrules I mounted looked skewed, probably from deflection. I know there are other remedies for this, like working the lathe correctly, but heck, this sounded interesting.Bob At 03:12 PM 10/16/00 -0500, Dennis Bertram wrote:Bob, I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? Seems like it could twist the end of the rod off very easily. Dennis Bertram -----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley Serve Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 11:56 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, Yep, I know... and I have a set for 12's and 13's, just haven't madethe rest of them up yet. What I did was took 1/2" round stock, drill thehole in the center (desired size of ferrule station), cut a cross in itwitha bandsaw, then the tedious part... file an edge on each of the flatsso itwill cut the bamboo... They're just outside cutters and they're probablyavailable somewhere, but I never could find them, so I just built some tosee if they would work. They do a pretty good job, but don't juststart todrive them straight onto a hex... kind round the first 1/4" or so anddrivethem slowly down as far as needed with the tailstock. Bob-----Original Message-----From: bob maulucci Date: Sunday, October 15, 2000 10:07 PMSubject: Cutters for ferrule stations Does anyone know the kind of tools used by Dickerson to cut hisferrulestations? The book on him calls them "inside cutters." Are these toolssomething used today in machining? Someone asked me about theseandalthough I have the book, I have no idea. (As usual.)Thanks,Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from bob@downandacross.com Mon Oct 16 19:09:27 2000 e9H09QG20879 Subject: Re: ring of fire Yeah, I have a photocopy only. Man, Mr. Keane could make a killing reissuing that book, with minor updates.Bob At 07:55 PM 10/16/00 -0400, you wrote:Yeah, Bob, Keane has 5 pgs on him and brands him a definite genius in hisworking of cane and taxidermy. If I didn't type like grass I'd send it outmyself and if I though Keane would allow it, I'd send a photocopy of themto Reed to scan into his excellently informative site.Reed, you want to chase THAT will-o-the-wisp? ;^)Art At 06:57 PM 10/16/2000 -0400, bob maulucci wrote:How about Martin Keane's book. There is at least some info in there. Thebook might be available at the library. That's were I got my look at it. At 02:42 PM 10/16/00 -0400, Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or got the specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic - the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort of genius. Is there adecentbiography of him anywhere? from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon Oct 16 19:33:15 2000 e9H0XFG22463 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations In a message dated 10/16/2000 4:00:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, fquinchat@locl.net writes: Your on the right track. MSC sells these cutters. They area reamer for reaming the outside of the stock, instead of the inside. I for get what they call them or what page they are on, but if you look through they're catalog, I'm sure you will find them. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from fquinchat@locl.net Mon Oct 16 19:52:58 2000 e9H0qvG23328 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations David, Thanks. I just found hollow mills in the KBC sale catalog. 5/8 OD shankwith holes 1/8 thru 3/8 in 1/32 increments. Would probably be easy enoughto grind the bore to get the odd 1/64 ths. Only $16 each. Dennis Bertram-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations In a message dated 10/16/2000 4:00:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,fquinchat@locl.net writes: I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? >> Your on the right track. MSC sells these cutters. They area reamer for reaming the outside of the stock, instead of theinside. I for get what they call them or what page they are on, butif you look through they're catalog, I'm sure you will find them. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon Oct 16 19:56:43 2000 e9H0ugG23541 Subject: Re: ring of fire/Martin Keane book List,I have this book and it shows some nice pictures of PHYs stuff. I remember when Jack Young gave me a tour of the shop back in the early 70s and I was just amazed at the tools and the machines. I spent the better part of a day with him and really had a great time of it. This was back in the days of the waining of the bamboo rod because of graphite and boron coming into vogue. I was discouraged by Jack to try and get involved with making rods becausehis sales had really declined. I still look at the catalog he gave me and I wish I would have bought some rods from him at $300.00 or so a piece. I kick myself in the a-- for this one. I wish you all could have been with me that day as it was a real treat. I did buy some fly tying material from him that says Paul Young Rods on it and I have never opened those packages for some reason. I will probaly put them in my display cabinet with my other old fly fishing stuff.Bret from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Oct 16 19:57:51 2000 e9H0voG23666 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:59:04 -0500 ,"Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations The way to be certain your blank is chucked dead true, is to use a tinycenter drill, and center drill the center of the blank, and then support itwith a live center, while turning the station. Most 3-jaw chucks will chuckwithin .003/.004", and this is pretty close for this job. Turning at about200 rpm, and taking light cuts, is the rest of it. If you want to beabsolute, use a 4-jaw, and fuss with it, until you have it right on. Takereadings on all 6 flats, and take the average as true. GMA from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Oct 16 20:42:50 2000 e9H1gnG25169 Mon, 16 Oct 2000 12:30:11 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Southern Rodmakers Gathering 2000 Friends,Here's a look at our Program Schedule for SRG 2000. Some changesmay be made, but this will give you a good idea of what we haveplanned. Please don't forget something for our Silent Auction, since wehope to make some sort of conservation related donation from ourproceeds this year. ALSO, please bring your own lawn chairs, and your own drinks. Wehave a few charis, but not nearly enough. And the only drink we'll beproviding is water. Straight out of the tap. You're on your own there. Sorry if any of you get this more than once. See you next week,Harry SRG 2000 Program Schedule Thursday, October 26 4:00 pm Registration Opens6:00 Pizza's at Fulton's7:00 First Seminar "How to Catch Fish on the White and NorthFork Rivers"Dale Fulton, Blue Ribbon Flies Friday, October 27 6:00 am Light Breakfast and Cajun Coffee, then go fishing! 9:00 Harold Demarest _ Tonkin Bamboo Today10:00 Beginner's Workshop begins11:00 Bob Nunley - Splitting bamboo by hand(For beginners and everyone else!)12:00 Lunch - Subs and Pasta Salad from Sandy's Deli1:00pm Morten Lovstad - Innovative ideas2:00 John Zimny - Varnish 3:00 Al Medved - Making Rattan Grips, Beveler 4:00 Roundtable Discussion _ Selling your rods4:00 The Cosmic Cast-off _ Dennis Higham and others 6:00 pm Friday Night Party at Fulton's LodgeBret's Barbeque for SupperSilent Auction ConcludesDoor Prizes Saturday, October 28 6:00 am Light Breakfast and Cajun Coffee, then go fishing! 9:00 Beginner's Workshop resumes9:30 Group Discussion _ Sharpening, Edge Holding in variousblades(For beginners and everyone else!)10:00 Bill Lamberson - Morgan Hand Mill11:00 Dennis Crockett - Gear Motor Binder 12:00 noon Ken Cole's Famous Burgers _ An SRG Tradition 1:00 - 4:00 Sell and swap time _ bring out anything you want to sell --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ from bob@downandacross.com Mon Oct 16 21:02:04 2000 e9H223G25739 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations http://www.kbctools.com/us/showlargepage.cfm?id=26These the right ones?Thanks for the tip. How would these attach to the lathe's end chuck? At 08:05 PM 10/16/00 -0500, Dennis Bertram wrote:David, Thanks. I just found hollow mills in the KBC sale catalog. 5/8 OD shankwith holes 1/8 thru 3/8 in 1/32 increments. Would probably be easyenoughto grind the bore to get the odd 1/64 ths. Only $16 each. Dennis Bertram-----Original Message-----From: LECLAIR123@aol.com Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 7:33 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations In a message dated 10/16/2000 4:00:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,fquinchat@locl.net writes: I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill with thehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? >> Your on the right track. MSC sells these cutters. They area reamer for reaming the outside of the stock, instead of theinside. I for get what they call them or what page they are on, butif you look through they're catalog, I'm sure you will find them. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from caneman@clnk.com Mon Oct 16 21:17:23 2000 e9H2HNG26281 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob,Those are definitely the right idea. The only problem with those, in mycase at least, is that I only have a 1/2" chuck for my tailstock. Thesmallest of these is 5/8" OD shaft. Of course, you might be able to turnthem down to 1/2" on one end so they'll work in a half inch chuck... eitherthat, or maybe someone with more knowledge of machines (chime in here,George) would know of an easier way to get them to work. Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations http://www.kbctools.com/us/showlargepage.cfm?id=26These the right ones?Thanks for the tip. How would these attach to the lathe's end chuck? At 08:05 PM 10/16/00 -0500, Dennis Bertram wrote:David, Thanks. I just found hollow mills in the KBC sale catalog. 5/8 OD shankwith holes 1/8 thru 3/8 in 1/32 increments. Would probably be easyenoughto grind the bore to get the odd 1/64 ths. Only $16 each. Dennis Bertram-----Original Message-----From: LECLAIR123@aol.com Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 7:33 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations In a message dated 10/16/2000 4:00:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,fquinchat@locl.net writes: I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill withthehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? >> Your on the right track. MSC sells these cutters. Theyarea reamer for reaming the outside of the stock, instead of theinside. I for get what they call them or what page they are on, butif you look through they're catalog, I'm sure you will find them. DaveLeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from fquinchat@locl.net Mon Oct 16 21:39:25 2000 e9H2dPG27259 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob, You will need a 5/8 Jacobs chuck for the tail stock. Also a problem for meas mine is only 1/2". Dennis Bertram -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations http://www.kbctools.com/us/showlargepage.cfm?id=26These the right ones?Thanks for the tip. How would these attach to the lathe's end chuck? At 08:05 PM 10/16/00 -0500, Dennis Bertram wrote:David, Thanks. I just found hollow mills in the KBC sale catalog. 5/8 OD shankwith holes 1/8 thru 3/8 in 1/32 increments. Would probably be easyenoughto grind the bore to get the odd 1/64 ths. Only $16 each. Dennis Bertram-----Original Message-----From: LECLAIR123@aol.com Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 7:33 PMSubject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations In a message dated 10/16/2000 4:00:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,fquinchat@locl.net writes: I can't quite get the hang of what this tool looks like. Does the rodrotate in the lathe? Does it look like a hollow 4 flute end mill withthehollow the same dia as the ferrule station? >> Your on the right track. MSC sells these cutters. Theyarea reamer for reaming the outside of the stock, instead of theinside. I for get what they call them or what page they are on, butif you look through they're catalog, I'm sure you will find them. DaveLeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from jojo@ipa.net Mon Oct 16 21:47:30 2000 e9H2lSG27587 Subject: Re: straightening This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C037BA.597BBC60 Bill, I tried this once. Seems the weights wanted to twist on the string with =which they were tied. Ever see a tip section with a 360* twist in the =last two inches of the tip? It's not pretty. Martin-Darrell Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 8:29 PMSubject: straightening The past two rods I glued up after I was done rolling on a flat =surface and playing with in all othersorts of ways, I hung up to dry =with weights attached. I used a gallon of paint on the butt section, =and 2 lb. binding weights on the tips. Worked pretty well, although no =one ever accused me of having the straightest rods in the world either. ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C037BA.597BBC60 Bill, I tried this once.Seems = pretty. Martin-Darrell ----- Original Message ----- BillTaylor = Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000= PMSubject: straightening The past two rods I glued up after I = rolling on a flat surface and playing with in all othersorts of ways, = although no one ever accused me of having the straightest rods in the = either. ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C037BA.597BBC60-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon Oct 16 21:58:59 2000 e9H2wwG27973 Subject: Re: Southern Rodmakers Gathering 2000 Bret from anglport@con2.com Mon Oct 16 22:08:15 2000 e9H38EG28279 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations George,Am I right in presuming you mean to mount the blank so the end is flushwith the front of the chuck and center-drill it then, and then pull it outthe required distance and use the live center to force it to stay on axis?If it's allowed to project the full amount before you drill it, thedrilling may still be off-center, no?Art At 08:03 PM 10/16/2000 -0500, nobler wrote:The way to be certain your blank is chucked dead true, is to use a tinycenter drill, and center drill the center of the blank, and then support itwith a live center, while turning the station. Most 3-jaw chucks will chuckwithin .003/.004", and this is pretty close for this job. Turning at about200 rpm, and taking light cuts, is the rest of it. If you want to beabsolute, use a 4-jaw, and fuss with it, until you have it right on. Takereadings on all 6 flats, and take the average as true. GMA from mstevens@ptdprolog.net Mon Oct 16 22:23:24 2000 e9H3NNG28920 Subject: Using Hoolow Mills You can make an adapter to hold larger diameter tools in your tail stockchuck. Take a piece of 7/8 or 1 inch and turn a half inch shank on one end.Turn around and drill and ream or bore a 5/8 hole. Drill and tap at rightangle to the 5/8 hole for a set screw. Put the 5/8 hollow mill in and lockwith the set screw. Do the 5/8 hole with a 4 jaw chuck or a collet so itwill be concentric. I use this for various screw machine tools in my tail stock chuck al thetime. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307C Effort PA 18330 610 681 5670 http://www.mikestevens.com http://www.OldTackle.com mstevens@ptdprolog.net mstevens@oldtackle.com Collector of Heddon Bamboo rodsJ.A. Coxe baitcasting reelsHeddon River Runt Spooks Maker of Fine Sights for Antique Single Shot TargetRifles from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 00:05:50 2000 e9H55mG02435 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:05:39 +0800 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:05:32 +0800 Subject: Re: ring of fire I saw Tod Young's re creation of this at his workshop but not in action.Tod said it was a hasle to get the preasure and spread right but he likesit. Looked quite interesting.Tod's workshop was in a state of motion when I was there so things weren'treally operational while he was re vamping the place but I did notice thering had a lot of empty space all around it. Must be the greatest sourse of heat and flame since Krakatoa when he firesit up. Tony At 02:02 PM 10/16/00 -0700, timothy troester wrote:i looked into building one. it's forced air andnatural gas. the plumbers i talked to just laughrd atme. i was told i wouldn't be able to aford it. idon't think i would want it in the basement and i'msure i would be violating some code to do so but iwonder about a scaled down model and using propane. if you had a large family you could get six torches atkmart and give one to each kid :-) why couldn't aperson get 6 nozzles in a ring and run them off asingle tank? it would still needto be used in an openarea. how about mounting one on a trailer and drivingit to all the rod makers gatherings. timothy --- Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or gotthe specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic- the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort ofgenius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 00:05:59 2000 e9H55uG02440 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:05:42 +0800 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:05:40 +0800 Subject: Re: Rod case I saw some very very nice rod cases while at Greyling last year made by JimBureau. The work was perfect and the timber he uses is outstanding. Jim is atrue craftsman and not just with cases, he rods are excellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, I just saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separate dividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industry great workmanship verygoodprice. catalog from them atbardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterestetc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from lblove@omniglobal.net Tue Oct 17 01:03:07 2000 e9H636G03941 , Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Go and get a end mill holder that is built for a 5/8" diametershank and has a morse taper that fits your tail stock.this is how we hold our custom swedging dies at work... msc has a few in 2 mt athttp://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatSectionView.process?RestartFlow=t&Merchant_Id=1&p_section_Id=1137&Section_Id=1137&p_product_type_Id=716&ShowProductList=t&p_att_type_id_0=19397&p_att_value_id_0=146991&p_search_flag_0=1&p_att_type_id_1=15756&p_att_value_id_1=24265&p_search_flag_1=1&SelectedAtt.length=2&pbegin=0&pcount=15&NameVector%5B0%5D.Name=Shank+Taper&NameVector%5B0%5D.Value=2&NameVector%5B1%5D.Name=Hole+Diameter&NameVector%5B1%5D.Value=.6250&NameVector.length=2&View.x.x=109&View.x.y=11 no commercial interest, just knew they had them there, Travers and Grizzlyalso have them... hope this helpsBrad ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations Bob,Those are definitely the right idea. The only problem with those, inmycase at least, is that I only have a 1/2" chuck for my tailstock. Thesmallest of these is 5/8" OD shaft. Of course, you might be able to turnthem down to 1/2" on one end so they'll work in a half inch chuck...eitherthat, or maybe someone with more knowledge of machines (chime in here,George) would know of an easier way to get them to work. Later,Bob from scan.oest@post.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 07:17:14 2000 e9HCHDG08626 +0200 Subject: Re.: Ring of Fire e9HCHEG08627 Being a convinced PHY fan (nothing new to most members on this list)I have, in the semidark hours of dawn, often wondered, if I could build sucha "Ring of Fire". The picture I saw for the first time several years ago, andthe thought of building the device has haunted me ever since. As I make my own devices for rodmaking, I primarely looked into the thingwith the thought of doing it myself. I have abstained from doing so, due tothe fact that A) I know too little about this subject, and B) if something goeswrong when using the thing, it goes wrong in a BIG way. Timothy's idea abouta trailer is really good, although I would transport the thing to a place faraway from people, pets, houses and other objects not being bomb proof. As for having a pro to build the device, it was ruled out of two reasons.The idea was presented to SWMBO who did not think it necessaryin order to maintain and secure the current level of common wellbeing inthis little family. Diplomaticaaly You could say she did not fancy the ideaout of financial and safety reasons. Nice to know she cares.......... Tears running down my nose I must accept the fact that my rodmakingcareer,if such is feasible, will not include "The Ring of Fire" Should anyone of my rodmaking friends around the world show more couragethan I and make the device, I will look forward to hear of his/her experienceswith the thing. Posthumally (is this the right word?) knowledge will beappreciatedtoo, if a way of conveying can be established. This might be Harry'sdepartmentthough, as I fear he is better connected in this area than Yours Truly.This is ofcourse pure speculation. Life must go on, but it would have been nice to have a "Ring of Fire" Wouldhavebeen a fast way to grill sausages as well.... regards, carsten Subject: Re: ring of fire i looked into building one. it's forced air andnatural gas. the plumbers i talked to just laughrd atme. i was told i wouldn't be able to aford it. idon't think i would want it in the basement and i'msure i would be violating some code to do so but iwonder about a scaled down model and using propane. if you had a large family you could get six torches atkmart and give one to each kid :-) why couldn't aperson get 6 nozzles in a ring and run them off asingle tank? it would still needto be used in an openarea. how about mounting one on a trailer and drivingit to all the rod makers gatherings. timothy --- Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or gotthe specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic- the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort ofgenius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 07:29:53 2000 e9HCToG09281 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:29:47 +0800 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:32:12 +0800 Subject: Re.: Ring of Fire e9HCTqG09282 I keep telling you guys, buy SWMBO the gear. Get her involved, I know thesethings :-) Tony At 02:26 PM 10/17/00 +0200, Carsten Jorgensen wrote:Being a convinced PHY fan (nothing new to most members on this list)I have, in the semidark hours of dawn, often wondered, if I could build sucha "Ring of Fire". The picture I saw for the first time several years ago, andthe thought of building the device has haunted me ever since. As I make my own devices for rodmaking, I primarely looked into the thingwith the thought of doing it myself. I have abstained from doing so, due tothe fact that A) I know too little about this subject, and B) if somethinggoeswrong when using the thing, it goes wrong in a BIG way. Timothy's ideaabouta trailer is really good, although I would transport the thing to a placefar away from people, pets, houses and other objects not being bomb proof. As for having a pro to build the device, it was ruled out of two reasons.The idea was presented to SWMBO who did not think it necessaryin order to maintain and secure the current level of common wellbeing inthis little family. Diplomaticaaly You could say she did not fancy the ideaout of financial and safety reasons. Nice to know she cares.......... Tears running down my nose I must accept the fact that my rodmakingcareer,if such is feasible, will not include "The Ring of Fire" Should anyone of my rodmaking friends around the world show morecouragethan I and make the device, I will look forward to hear of his/herexperienceswith the thing. Posthumally (is this the right word?) knowledge will beappreciatedtoo, if a way of conveying can be established. This might be Harry'sdepartmentthough, as I fear he is better connected in this area than Yours Truly.This is ofcourse pure speculation. Life must go on, but it would have been nice to have a "Ring of Fire"Would havebeen a fast way to grill sausages as well.... regards, carsten Subject: Re: ring of fire i looked into building one. it's forced air andnatural gas. the plumbers i talked to just laughrd atme. i was told i wouldn't be able to aford it. idon't think i would want it in the basement and i'msure i would be violating some code to do so but iwonder about a scaled down model and using propane. if you had a large family you could get six torches atkmart and give one to each kid :-) why couldn't aperson get 6 nozzles in a ring and run them off asingle tank? it would still needto be used in an openarea. how about mounting one on a trailer and drivingit to all the rod makers gatherings. timothy --- Seth Steinzor wrote:Has anybody on the list built one of these, or gotthe specifications? Isit a horribly unsafe thing? And, on a related topic- the more I learnabout PHY, the more he seems like some sort ofgenius. Is there a decentbiography of him anywhere? ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Oct 17 07:41:18 2000 e9HCfHG09783 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 05:41:12 -0700 Subject: Re: Re.: Ring of Fire Friends,Finally a topic I'm an expert on -- explosions! (Just kidding) Okay, one ofmyDeacons owns a propane company. My cousin owns another propanecompany. I'll showthem some pictures and see what I can come up with. If it works, is anyonewilling tohelp finance this project, or at least help clean up the mess? screen whilelaughing out loud. Harry Carsten Jorgensen wrote: As for having a pro to build the device, it was ruled out of two reasons.The idea was presented to SWMBO who did not think it necessaryin order to maintain and secure the current level of common wellbeing inthis little family. Diplomaticaaly You could say she did not fancy the ideaout of financial and safety reasons. Nice to know she cares............... This might be Harry's departmentthough, as I fear he is better connected in this area than Yours Truly.This is ofcourse pure speculation. from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Oct 17 09:16:33 2000 e9HEGXG13287 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 09:16:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations A tail stock chuck is the only way ! Jacobs makes chucks clear up over an1", I even have one that will hold larger dies, for cutting threads onshafts. Now those with small lathes, may find there are none that will fit asmaller machine. They do have every size of Morse taper adapter for all thetapers. I suppose you could make an adapter to hold your 1/2" chuck, providing youhave the space on the bed to do it ? GMA from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Tue Oct 17 09:36:40 2000 e9HEaeG14481 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 09:35:41 -0500 R8.31.00.5) Subject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some of the rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??) wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types to use or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, how thick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panel break along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. I don't really have any experience with these more exotic types of wood in such an application. Any suggestions would be mucho appreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-Mail I saw some very very nice rod cases while at Greyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber he uses is outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods are excellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, I just saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separate dividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industry great workmanship verygood price. catalog from them atbardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Tue Oct 17 09:56:54 2000 e9HEurG15981 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:56:52 -0400 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case I don't think burl wood be appropriate for this application - for one thing,you're going to find it difficult to get pieces of burl that are three orfour feet long! :-) But a highly figured wood such as tight tiger maplecould be spectacular. It's all a matter of taste. There's a lot to be said think a plain wood might be more elegant than something with a lot of visualfuss. Imagine a rod case of bleached ash or birch! it would look like alight saber. ;-) As for the thickness of the panels, I've been ripping them to 3/8 inch.That's plenty thick enough for strength - thicker than the cedar stripsyou'd use to build some types of canoe - and the beveled edges are broadenough to give a good glue surface. Didn't Wayne write once about having awood rod case fall off the top of his car and explode? That's what you wantto avoid. -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 10:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some of the rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??) wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types to use or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, how thick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panel break along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. I don't really have any experience with these more exotic types of wood in such an application. Any suggestions would be mucho appreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while at Greyling last year made byJim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber he uses is outstanding. Jim isa true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods are excellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, I just saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separate dividers for bamboofromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industry great workmanship verygood price. catalog from them atbardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Oct 17 10:08:28 2000 e9HF8RG16826 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:08:28 -0500 "Art Port" Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations That's it exactly ! When center drilling anything, you do it with the itemvery close to the chuck. GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Oct 17 10:11:38 2000 e9HFBbG17128 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:11:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Using Hoolow Mills Yes but the larger hole must not allow movement, when the set screw intightened, and the work must be zeroed before boring the second hole. GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Oct 17 10:19:16 2000 e9HFJFG17528 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:19:08 -0500 Subject: Re: ring of fire Paul was very proud of his heat treating method, and felt it gave him adistinct advantage ! He wrote about this more than once, but nevermentionedthe "ring of fire" ! GMA from rfjoinery@creativequest.com Tue Oct 17 10:21:27 2000 e9HFLQG17728 Subject: Re: Rod case woods At 09:38 AM 10/17/00 -0500, you wrote:I really like the wood hex cases that some of the rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??) wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types to use or avoid on these? I agree with Seth's comments pretty much, that burl/intensely figured woodis hard to find in the sizes needed, it can be fragile, and I too thinkit's a matter of personal taste what kind of look you want for a case orany functional piece of this size. If you want to pursue the burl idea, try veneer. Most of the choice burland heavy figured wood that hits the market, gets snatched up by veneercompanies, they can pay more because they add more value and command ahigher end price. Hence there's tons of gorgeous figured veneer available.Now the technology to apply veneer well takes some practice and a littleequipment, but we rodmakers will try anything, right? For the substrate(the lumber core that the veneer's glued to, and which structurally formsthe box) many straight-grained woods will do, my first choice would bemahogany, it's very stable and straight, and glues real well. Conventional practice for veneering on solid wood, calls for applyingveneer to both faces, to balance the moisture permeability of both sidesand prevent warp later on. Especially important if the piece is exposed tomoisture swings, like at streamside! On the other hand, as long as your hexglue up is real sound, I'd think you could get away with just veneering theoutside face. You'll want to apply some finish inside and out, which can bea trick; wipe on a varnish before applying the end caps? If you're using exotic woods, or even if you're using any hardwood at allthese days, you should be aware that we can use "certified",sustainably-harvested wood, that's taken from the land in such a way as toallow long-term conservation of the forest and the diversity of itsecosystem. Sure it costs a little more, but conservation of watershed iscritical to fine fishing anywhere, right? No commercial interest etc etc, and I don't sell lumber, but if you'reinterested I can refer you to suppliers. from mevans@acxiom.com Tue Oct 17 10:37:54 2000 e9HFbsG18659 crichton.acxiom.com ;Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:44:53 -0500 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case Hi Jon, I stained one of these last night. I could not stand to watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a good case. I would not worry about the figure of the wood, etc. If you choose something exotic, it will probably be a harder wood than native hardwoods. Just avoid knots and defects if you join and plane rough stock. Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. The boards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the end caps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inch boards. You pay a premium for this wood compared to other options, but it was less than $20 total and the wood is nicely finished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying a tube. Mark -----Original Message----- Subject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some of the rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??) wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types to use or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, how thick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panel break along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. I don't really have any experience with these more exotic types of wood in such an application. Any suggestions would be mucho appreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-Mail I saw some very very nice rod cases while at Greyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber he uses is outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods are excellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, I just saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separate dividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industry great workmanship verygood price. catalog from them atbardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Oct 17 10:38:52 2000 e9HFcqG18818 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:38:50 -0500 , Subject: Re: Cutters for ferrule stations I stand corrected, as I'd forgotten the mill holders, mentioned by Brad. GMA from eestlow@yahoo.com Tue Oct 17 10:50:30 2000 e9HFoUG19413 2000 08:50:24 PDT Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case "'mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu'" Good morning all: I'm curious - how do these cases stand up to therigors of travel and just daily wear and tear (saydropping on a corner)? I recently flew to Montana fora week's fishing with several friends. When we gotthere, one guy's Stanley steel thermos, which had beenINSIDE his soft dufflebag, was severely dented. Analuminum tube would have been similarly dented withpossible damage to a rod inside. How might a wood tubehave withstood this? Thanks for any insights. Best regards,-Ed Estlow --- mevans - Mark Evans wrote:Hi Jon, I stained one of these last night. I could not standto watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a good case.I would not worry about the figure of the wood, etc. If youchoose something exotic, it will probably be a harder wood thannative hardwoods. Just avoid knots and defects if you join and planerough stock. Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. Theboards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the endcaps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inchboards. You pay a premium for this wood compared to otheroptions, but it was less than $20 total and the wood is nicelyfinished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying atube. Mark -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some ofthe rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??)wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types touse or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, howthick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panelbreak along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. Idon't really have any experience with these more exotic types of woodin such an application. Any suggestions would be muchoappreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while atGreyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber he usesis outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods areexcellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, Ijust saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separatedividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industrygreat workmanship verygood price. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from caneman@clnk.com Tue Oct 17 11:14:26 2000 e9HGEPG20409 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Re[2]: Rod case Ed,I've made hex wooden rod tubes for a number of years. The only one I'veever had any problem with is one that I backed over with my car. Other thanthat one, they've held up just fine, but I don't use highly figured woodseither. Most of the woods I use are straight grained walnut, mahogony,cherry, maple, etc. Bob -----Original Message----- 'mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu' Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case Good morning all: I'm curious - how do these cases stand up to therigors of travel and just daily wear and tear (saydropping on a corner)? I recently flew to Montana fora week's fishing with several friends. When we gotthere, one guy's Stanley steel thermos, which had beenINSIDE his soft dufflebag, was severely dented. Analuminum tube would have been similarly dented withpossible damage to a rod inside. How might a wood tubehave withstood this? Thanks for any insights. Best regards,-Ed Estlow --- mevans - Mark Evans wrote:Hi Jon,I stained one of these last night. I could not standto watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a good case.I would notworry about the figure of the wood, etc. If youchoose somethingexotic, it will probably be a harder wood thannative hardwoods.Just avoid knots and defects if you join and planerough stock.Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. Theboards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the endcaps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inchboards.You pay a premium for this wood compared to otheroptions, but itwas less than $20 total and the wood is nicelyfinished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying atube. Mark -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some ofthe rodmakers create.Especially when heavily grained or burled (??)wood is used. Doesanyone have any suggestions on wood types touse or avoid on these?Also, to cut the side panels of the case, howthick do you cut thepiece? In my mind I can see a too thin panelbreak along a burl lineor grain if it is the wrong type of wood. Idon't really have anyexperience with these more exotic types of woodin such anapplication. Any suggestions would be muchoappreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod caseAuthor: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while atGreyling last year made by JimBureau. The work was perfect and the timber he usesis outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods areexcellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, Ijust saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separatedividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industrygreat workmanship verygoodprice. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.comNo commercialinterestetc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Tue Oct 17 11:18:22 2000 e9HGIMG20676 LAA09266 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: case Just something to think about, Bob Milward made a rod case out of a lengthof culm. He split it length wise down the middle, lined it with red felt coveringpieces of fitted foam, brass hinges and scrim shawed and varnished the outside of the blonde culm. It was the most beautiful case that I had ever seenand just seemed to fit in with the cane rod inside and he used a culm thatwasn't good enough to make a rod out of. He left the end dams in so he didn'tneed endcaps for it. The rod inside had gold plated ferrules and reel bands---most impressive. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Oct 17 12:03:14 2000 e9HH37G22638 10:16:05 PDT Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case all, schedual 40 pvc is the best but doesn't lookgood. i had a semi run over the pvc with a rod in it.the rod lived. the poor high end aluminum tube didnot. timothy --- Ed Estlow wrote:Good morning all: I'm curious - how do these cases stand up to therigors of travel and just daily wear and tear (saydropping on a corner)? I recently flew to Montanafora week's fishing with several friends. When we gotthere, one guy's Stanley steel thermos, which hadbeenINSIDE his soft dufflebag, was severely dented. Analuminum tube would have been similarly dented withpossible damage to a rod inside. How might a woodtubehave withstood this? Thanks for any insights. Best regards,-Ed Estlow --- mevans - Mark Evans wrote:Hi Jon, I stained one of these last night. I could notstandto watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a goodcase.I would not worry about the figure of the wood, etc. If youchoose something exotic, it will probably be a harder wood thannative hardwoods. Just avoid knots and defects if you join and planerough stock. Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. Theboards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the endcaps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inchboards. You pay a premium for this wood compared to otheroptions, but it was less than $20 total and the wood is nicelyfinished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying atube. Mark -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some ofthe rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled(??)wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types touse or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, howthick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panelbreak along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. Idon't really have any experience with these more exotic types ofwoodin such an application. Any suggestions would be muchoappreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while atGreyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber heusesis outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rodsareexcellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, Ijust saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separatedividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industrygreat workmanship verygood price. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from jteft@frontiernet.net Tue Oct 17 12:06:19 2000 e9HH6IG22848 claiming to be "jteft" 2000 Subject: Splicing Block This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0383A.DC99CEE0 Need some suggestions on how to seat bamboo into a splicing block. I have a splicing block which meets the Charmichael dimensions of 5/32 = How are the nodeless builders getting a tight fit ? I can see placing a =shim in before tightening the block as one way or I can sand down the =block half that has the notch. The original culm was a 1 1/2 could that =be one of the reasons for the wall thickness and would it be thicker in =a 2 inch or greater. Think I will shim for now to keep the process going.Thanks,Jim Tefft ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0383A.DC99CEE0 Need some suggestions on how toseat = a splicing block. I have a splicing block which meets= Charmichael dimensions of 5/32 for the notch that I purchased. My tip = less than 5/32 thick. How are the nodeless builders getting a tight fit = see placing a shim in before tightening the block as one way or I can = the block half that has the notch. The original culm was a 1 1/2 could = one of the reasons for the wall thickness and would it be thicker in a 2 = greater. going. Jim Tefft ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0383A.DC99CEE0-- from gjm80301@yahoo.com Tue Oct 17 12:12:41 2000 e9HHCeG23165 2000 10:12:40 PDT Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case That's the way I travel, Tim. BTW, Wayne has a sad story about a hex case made of highly figuredwood, but he may force you to travel to Grayrock to hear it. --- timothy troester wrote:all, schedual 40 pvc is the best but doesn't lookgood. i had a semi run over the pvc with a rod in it.the rod lived. the poor high end aluminum tube didnot. timothy --- Ed Estlow wrote:Good morning all: I'm curious - how do these cases stand up to therigors of travel and just daily wear and tear (saydropping on a corner)? I recently flew to Montanafora week's fishing with several friends. When we gotthere, one guy's Stanley steel thermos, which hadbeenINSIDE his soft dufflebag, was severely dented. Analuminum tube would have been similarly dented withpossible damage to a rod inside. How might a woodtubehave withstood this? Thanks for any insights. Best regards,-Ed Estlow --- mevans - Mark Evans wrote:Hi Jon, I stained one of these last night. I could notstandto watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a goodcase.I would not worry about the figure of the wood, etc. If youchoose something exotic, it will probably be a harder wood thannative hardwoods. Just avoid knots and defects if you join and planerough stock. Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. Theboards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the endcaps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inchboards. You pay a premium for this wood compared to otheroptions, but it was less than $20 total and the wood is nicelyfinished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying atube. Mark -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some ofthe rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled(??)wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types touse or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, howthick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panelbreak along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. Idon't really have any experience with these more exotic types ofwoodin such an application. Any suggestions would be muchoappreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while atGreyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber heusesis outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rodsareexcellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, Ijust saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separatedividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industrygreat workmanship verygood price. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ from caneman@clnk.com Tue Oct 17 12:18:52 2000 e9HHIpG23481 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Splicing Block This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01C03833.D7578AA0 Jim,I now have two splicing blocks, but before I built the one for esp =thin tips, I used to use masking tape as a shim. Ugly but it's cheap =and it works. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Jim Tefft Date: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:00 PMSubject: Splicing Block Need some suggestions on how to seat bamboo into a splicing block. I have a splicing block which meets the Charmichael dimensions of =5/32 for the notch that I purchased. My tip pieces are less than 5/32 =thick. How are the nodeless builders getting a tight fit ? I can see =placing a shim in before tightening the block as one way or I can sand =down the block half that has the notch. The original culm was a 1 1/2 =could that be one of the reasons for the wall thickness and would it be =thicker in a 2 inch or greater. Think I will shim for now to keep the process going.Thanks,Jim Tefft ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01C03833.D7578AA0 Jim, two = blocks, but before I built the one for esp thin tips, I used to use = Bob -----Original = rodmakers <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:00 PMSubject: BlockNeed some suggestions on howto = into a splicing block. I have a splicing block which = Charmichael dimensions of 5/32 for the notch that I purchased. My = are less than 5/32 thick. How are the nodeless builders getting a = ? I can see placing a shim in before tightening the block as one way = can sand down the block half that has the notch. The original culm = 1/2 could that be one of the reasons for the wall thickness and = thicker in a 2 inch or greater. going. Jim =Tefft ------=_NextPart_000_019A_01C03833.D7578AA0-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 12:28:46 2000 e9HHSiG23978 +0200 Subject: type="multipart/alternative"; This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C03870.E60A4820 ------=_NextPart_001_0020_01C03870.E60A4820 Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makes I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten> from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 12:33:36 2000 e9HHXYG24290 Subject: RE: Re[2]: Rod case "'mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu'" ,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu You make a good point. Same thing happened to my hip flask recently AND Ilost my rods which were in a nice looking rod case for a few days. ThoughtI'd be fishing graphite for a while there.The lesson I learnt was always keep your hip flask where it belongs, ie.your hip pocket and argue with the airport security people that it reallydoes only have wiskey in it and no it doesn't have simtex or whtever in afalse bottom and never carry rods on public transport in a half decentlooking rod case, use the dodgiest looking length of PVC plumbing pipe youcan find. It may even be worth smearing grease or old paint on it to makeit look like something nobody would pinch.They take a hell of a beating too so your rods may even make it in one piece. Tony At 08:50 AM 10/17/00 -0700, Ed Estlow wrote:Good morning all: I'm curious - how do these cases stand up to therigors of travel and just daily wear and tear (saydropping on a corner)? I recently flew to Montana fora week's fishing with several friends. When we gotthere, one guy's Stanley steel thermos, which had beenINSIDE his soft dufflebag, was severely dented. Analuminum tube would have been similarly dented withpossible damage to a rod inside. How might a wood tubehave withstood this? Thanks for any insights. Best regards,-Ed Estlow --- mevans - Mark Evans wrote:Hi Jon, I stained one of these last night. I could not standto watchthe Redbirds get drilled. I think any 3/8 inch hardwood will make a good case.I would not worry about the figure of the wood, etc. If youchoose something exotic, it will probably be a harder wood thannative hardwoods. Just avoid knots and defects if you join and planerough stock. Once it is glued, the stock will be rock solid. I bought Red Oak from the craft bins at Lowes. Theboards were4 x 4 x 3/8. They have matching S4S for the endcaps along side it.I'm sure you could make a good case with 3 inchboards. You pay a premium for this wood compared to otheroptions, but it was less than $20 total and the wood is nicelyfinished and free of defects. Enjoy! I think this is much nicer than buying atube. Mark -----Original Message-----From: mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 9:39 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re[2]: Rod case I really like the wood hex cases that some ofthe rodmakers create. Especially when heavily grained or burled (??)wood is used. Does anyone have any suggestions on wood types touse or avoid on these? Also, to cut the side panels of the case, howthick do you cut the piece? In my mind I can see a too thin panelbreak along a burl line or grain if it is the wrong type of wood. Idon't really have any experience with these more exotic types of woodin such an application. Any suggestions would be muchoappreciado!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Rod case Author: at Internet-MailDate: 10/17/00 10:41 AM I saw some very very nice rod cases while atGreyling last year made by Jim Bureau. The work was perfect and the timber he usesis outstanding. Jim is a true craftsman and not just with cases, he rods areexcellent.Sorry but I don't know how he deals with these, Ijust saw several. Tony At 05:26 PM 10/16/00 -0500, David Norling wrote: Just got a cordura double rod case with separatedividers for bamboo fromBarcole in Libby Montana. Small cottage industrygreat workmanship verygood price. catalog from them at bardoleusa@lclink.com No commercialinterest etc. etc.Dave /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.http://im.yahoo.com/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from dannyt@frisurf.no Tue Oct 17 12:36:03 2000 e9HHa2G24642 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:35:55 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3054742510_36743_MIME_Part Why can`t I see Your attachment?BTW. I thought it was banned on this list..............:-) regardsdanny Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makesthe insulated stove pipe red-hot inside. I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten --MS_Mac_OE_3054742510_36743_MIME_Part Re: Why can`t I see Your attachment? BTW. I thought it was banned on this list..............:-) regardsdanny Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:31:51 +0200 Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makesthe insulated stove pipe red-hot inside. I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten --MS_Mac_OE_3054742510_36743_MIME_Part-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 12:39:51 2000 e9HHdoG24944 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:39:48 +0200 "Rodmakers" Subject: Sv: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C03872.99FB8A00 Re:Danny There is no attachment. The picture is part of the mailIs Your browser abled to show pictures? Anyone else who cant see the picture below the text?If so, I will mai the picture as an attachment. No virae,just a picture. regards,carsten Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 7:35 PM BTW. I thought it was banned on this list..............:-) regardsdanny From: Carsten J=F8rgensen Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:31:51 +0200 Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makes I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one =half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the =otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C03872.99FB8A00 Re: Danny There is no attachment. The picture is= mail pictures? Anyone else who cant see the picture = text?If so, I will mai the picture as an = virae,just a picture. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Danny = Sent: Wednesday, October 18, = PMSubject: Re: Why can`t I see Your attachment? BTW. I thought it= banned on this list..............:-)regardsdanny <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= ListersHaving = shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the = selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing = 10 minutes makesthe insulated stove pipe red-hot inside. = take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the = inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time = it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm = aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The = blasting all of the time.Please wear stout leather gloves, = =works.regards,carsten ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C03872.99FB8A00-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 12:41:40 2000 e9HHfZG25097 +0200 Subject: "Pipe of Fire" picture attached This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C03872.CB58DE40 ------=_NextPart_001_0057_01C03872.CB58DE40 here it is ragards,carsten from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 12:43:54 2000 e9HHhkG25308 Subject: Re: --=====================_10284866==_ type="text/plain"; --=====================_10284867==_.REL Carsten,looks great but if that's galv steel better be careful of fumes. Just thinking of when I saw Tod Young's ring of fire it appeared to me thedevice wouldn't just heat the bamboo as much as blast it in in localised=areaswith what I guess is the wrong term but plasma for a short period of timerather than give the bamboo a soaking heat because of the effect he waslookingfor. Tony Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makes I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten 9cea8e.jpg from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Oct 17 12:43:54 2000 e9HHhkG25308 Subject: Re: --=====================_10284866==_ type="text/plain"; --=====================_10284867==_.REL Carsten,looks great but if that's galv steel better be careful of fumes. Just thinking of when I saw Tod Young's ring of fire it appeared to me thedevice wouldn't just heat the bamboo as much as blast it in in localised=areaswith what I guess is the wrong term but plasma for a short period of timerather than give the bamboo a soaking heat because of the effect he waslookingfor. Tony Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" The picture below is, I hope, selfexplanatory. Let me just addthat having the torch blazing for some 10 minutes makes I then take the culm, unsplit except for sticking a long rodthrough the dams inside, an move it fast forwards and backwards,at the same time rotating it along the longitudal axis. When one half ofthe 6 feet culm has aquired the right color, I reverse and do the otherhalf. The burner is blasting all of the time. Please wear stout leather gloves, as this is HOT work. This is the nearest thing to the real deal. It works. regards,carsten 9cea8e.jpg from dannyt@frisurf.no Tue Oct 17 12:44:34 2000 e9HHiXG25406 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:44:23 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: "Pipe of Fire" picture attached This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3054743017_67281_MIME_Part Carsten, Now I can see it, loud and clear........ regardsdanny Subject: "Pipe of Fire" picture attached here it is ragards,carsten --MS_Mac_OE_3054743017_67281_MIME_Part Re: "Pipe of Fire" picture attached Carsten, Now I can see it, loud and clear........ regardsdanny Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:45:25 +0200 <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu&=gt;Subject: "Pipe of Fire" picture attached here it is ragards,carsten --MS_Mac_OE_3054743017_67281_MIME_Part-- from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Tue Oct 17 12:52:13 2000 e9HHqCG25909 Subject: Re: your mail Carsten, I'm not quite sure of the scale of the thing. Is this a small torchlike one uses to solder copper pipes, or a large torch that saya roofer uses to melt tar roofing in place? On Tue, 17 Oct 2000, Carsten Jorgensen wrote: Listers Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 12:55:16 2000 e9HHtFG26162 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:55:14 +0200 Subject: Sv: e9HHtGG26163 Tony When it comes to heattreating, I've tried it all, I think.Heatgun oven, Garrison elecic oven, freehand styletorch, hell, I even had the use of the stone ovenin the local pizzeria a couple of times. My experience is that nothing comes close tomy "Pipe of Fire" and I think You are right - theblasting is the thing. I guess the "Ring of Fire" is better which is why I'dlove to have one, but...... As to fumes, I only do the thing outside. Tried itonly once in my basement. SWMBO does NOTlike the smell of toasted bamboo which wasexplained to me in a way not to be misunderstood. The things one has to endure...... regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Carsten,looks great but if that's galv steel better be careful of fumes. Just thinking of when I saw Tod Young's ring of fire it appeared to me thedevice wouldn't just heat the bamboo as much as blast it in in localised areaswith what I guess is the wrong term but plasma for a short period of timerather than give the bamboo a soaking heat because of the effect he waslookingfor. Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from rens.oosthoek@wxs.nl Tue Oct 17 12:55:43 2000 e9HHtgG26248 ; Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:55:35 +0200 Subject: Hexrod This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C03873.3FA2C400 Dear listmembers, Could any of you please show me where to get the Hexrod programme. I'm =not looking for Wayne's version but for , I think, Bruce Conners. It was =this neat little programme which did all the work for you. By simply =adding the details of a specific rod it would produce a graph of the =results'. Changing tapers was a piece of cake. All in all it made me do =what I never achieved with Wayne's Hexrod: understand it. It was a =desktop version that worked well with windows. Several computer crashes =have left me Hexrodless and seriously handicapped. T.i.a. Rens Oosthoek ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C03873.3FA2C400 Dear listmembers, Could any of you please show me where= Hexrod programme. I'm not looking for Wayne's version but for , I think, = Conners. It was this neat little programme which did all the work for = simply adding the details of a specific rod it would produce a graph of = results'. Changing tapers was a piece of cake. All in all it made me do = never achieved with Wayne's Hexrod: understand it. It was a desktop = worked well with windows. Several computer crashes have left me = seriously handicapped. T.i.a. Rens =Oosthoek ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C03873.3FA2C400-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 12:58:18 2000 e9HHwHG26486 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:58:16 +0200 Subject: Sv: your mail e9HHwIG26487 Frank It is the latter. One has to create an inferno insidethe stove pipe. It is full power all of the timewhen heat treating. The pipe is my small portable model. In our fishingclub we have a larger and twice as long piece ofpipe. This gives even more heat and is better, orat least easier to use without burning the cane. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: your mail Carsten, I'm not quite sure of the scale of the thing. Is this a small torchlike one uses to solder copper pipes, or a large torch that saya roofer uses to melt tar roofing in place? from cmj@post11.tele.dk Tue Oct 17 13:05:16 2000 e9HI5FG27074 +0200 Subject: Re.: "Pipe of Fire" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01C03876.27A38C60 Listers I got the message below. Anyone one having had the picplease notice me if You want to. delivered because canerods is not accepting mail with attachmentsor embedded images regards,carsten ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01C03876.27A38C60 Listers I got the message below. Anyone one = picplease notice me if You want =to. Sorry cmj@post11.tele.dk. Your mail to= could not be delivered because canerods is not = with attachments images regards,carsten ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01C03876.27A38C60-- from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Oct 17 13:07:38 2000 e9HI7bG27388 Subject: Re: ring of fire/Martin Keane book Organization: GOULD Hi to all,There's a neighbor up the street who has a Paul H. Young rod for sale if anyof you collectors are interested contact me off list and I'll furnish you aphone number.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: ring of fire/Martin Keane book List,I have this book and it shows some nice pictures of PHYs stuff. Irememberwhen Jack Young gave me a tour of the shop back in the early 70s and Iwasjust amazed at the tools and the machines. I spent the better part of adaywith him and really had a great time of it. This was back in the days ofthewaining of the bamboo rod because of graphite and boron coming intovogue.Iwas discouraged by Jack to try and get involved with making rods becausehissales had really declined. I still look at the catalog he gave me and IwishI would have bought some rods from him at $300.00 or so a piece. I kickmyself in the a-- for this one. I wish you all could have been with methatday as it was a real treat. I did buy some fly tying material from himthatsays Paul Young Rods on it and I have never opened those packages forsomereason. I will probaly put them in my display cabinet with my other oldflyfishing stuff.Bret from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Oct 17 13:23:42 2000 e9HINfG28489 Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:23:37 -0700 Organization: First Baptist Church Subject: Re: --------------7F513F3B1C1F1138E0B0F4AA Carsten Jorgensen wrote: Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have tobecontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" Carsten, and others, You're rig looks interesting, but how badly do you want a "ring offire"? I did some checking at lunch today, like I mentioned earlier.The fellow I checked with is an engineer who owns a propane company, andhe said that the picture I showed him of the ring of fire looks prettysimple. The real high cost is paying a welder to create the outerring. Otherwise, one might use what he calls "weed burner rigs" foreach of the 6 nozzles. Some of you northern (read "yankee") types mightknow them as "ice melters." With a regulator on a propane line,blowback pressure shouldn't be an issue.His suggestion was that rather than building the outer round ring,one might make a two-tiered rig. A frame would hold two pipes paralellto the ground. Each of those two pipes could handle three nozzles, in ahexagon pattern. One hose would feed both pipes. My only questions concern the heat output of the rig he designed forme on the spot. I picked up one of the weed burners, and will try itnext time I flame some cane. If it works well, I might try putting sixtogether at one time. Harry Carsten Jorgensen wrote: Having realized I shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have tobecontend with the second best, my "pipe of Fire" --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." Harry Boydhttp://HarryBoydbamboorods.eboard.com/ --------------7F513F3B1C1F1138E0B0F4AA Carsten Jørgensen wrote:Having realizedI shall never have a "Ring of Fire" I have to becontendwith the second best, my "pipe of Fire" Carsten, and others, a propane company, and he said that the picture I showed him of the ring northern regulatoron a propane line, blowback pressure shouldn't be an issue. pipes. burners, might try putting six together at one time. Carsten Jørgensen wrote:Having realized