MillerSent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 3:47 = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: =Heddon? = most rods.Take my favorite the Devine's. They = as good of hardware as any = I'm ducking my head! I didn't say cast better.LOLAll nickel silver parts,Agate = butt ,well documented and limited compared to Heddons. It was twice = Heddon was,so why are Heddons valued higher?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_009A_01C091EE.6A7E9B20-- from goodaple@tcac.net Thu Feb 8 19:17:23 2001 f191HNe02950 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) Subject: Re: group cork order? Organization: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01B0_01C09204.10366A60 Count me in as well. For a couple hundred rings. Thanks, Randall R. =Gregory NW AR. Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:40 AMSubject: Re: group cork order? I would like to be included in that , too . If that is okay ?thanksRex ------=_NextPart_000_01B0_01C09204.10366A60 Count me in as well. For a couple = Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message ----- Rex= Sent: Thursday, February 08, = AMSubject: Re: group cork =order? I would like to be included in that , too . If that = okay?thanksRexSign up for a free About Email account at = = ------=_NextPart_000_01B0_01C09204.10366A60-- from HomeyDKlown@att.net Thu Feb 8 19:20:09 2001 f191K9e03147 ;Fri, 9 Feb 2001 01:20:05 +0000 Subject: Re: Banty Rods I'll second that!! I have Ed Shenck's (sp?) disease. I love shortflyrods. Please post. Dennis Lazybee45@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/8/01 1:31:30 AM Central Standard Time,Ralf.Ladda@t- online.de writes: another request from the German guy who couldn't find what he waslooking for in the rodmakers archives. Since I am fishing small creekswith lots of bushes and trees, I've been looking for tapers for bantyrods, but couldn't find them in the archives (correction - justcouldn't get the right log files I guess). Does anybody have any tapers (Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de) - I don't want to bother the rest of the listwith a topic, that has been probably discussed more than one time. Sorry Regards Ralf from Germany wait wait wait! DO post them to the list. I like little rods too!mark from piscator@macatawa.org Thu Feb 8 19:22:25 2001 f191MOe03315 Subject: Re: Heddon? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C0920D.3D1B3FC0 Well, I'd hate to start aany arguments, but Heddon made many wonderful =flyrods. Some of the earlier rods have cedar or walnut inserts over =nickle siver reel seats, and the ns over plastic was state of the art =when they made them. (Though Heddalyn was pretty bad). Node spacing =was considered wrt adjacent nodes, and the better grade rods got better =node work. The masses were very taken with plastic from WW II to the =early '60's. The varnish issue is probably moot, I've seen many =Heddon's with nice varnish jobs, and I've seen several leonards with =crappy varnish as well. I think a lot has to do with how they were = I think that Heddon made tons of really good rods, and lots of great = Heddon at the bottom-end of the comparison with their contemporaies? I =just don't buy that. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C0920D.3D1B3FC0 Well, I'd hate to start aany= cedar or walnut inserts over nickle siver reel seats, and the ns over = I think that Heddon = really good rods, and lots of great rods (#14, #17, #20, #35, #50, = Heddon at the bottom-endof = that. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C0920D.3D1B3FC0-- from edriddle@mindspring.com Thu Feb 8 19:32:45 2001 f191Wie03832 Subject: Fw: Heddon? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0920E.769BE6E0 Hi Harry:Bob gives good advice. For those of you interested in the old =production rods, I recommend Michael Sinclair's "Bamboo Rod Restoration =Handbook" ($25.00). Therein is an extensive listing of Monty's, =Divine's, H- I's, Heddon's, S.B's, Granger's, Phillipson's, =Shakespeare's, etc., provided primarily for identification/restoration =puposes; however, in addition, those rod's i.d.'d with nickle silver =ferrules (versus chrome plated brass) jump up as preferred (sorry =Darrell)... Tapers aren't listed, as casting/fishability takes a back =seat to collection and restoration in this volume... no financial =connection, blah, blah, but it's a great fireside reader between Gierach =books.Hope I haven't bombed your bandwidth.Ed Subject: Re: Heddon? HI Harry:2 rods that fall into your category that I have and enjoy are a South =Bend Cross #1500 7'6" 5wt and an HI Tonka Queen 7'9" 5 wt. They are both=fantastic rods that could be had for a good price. Although I see Tonka =Queens all the time for $250 (a good buy), I wish I could buy more of =the South Bend Cross rods. That's what I would collect if I had the =time. Jordan's tapers are great and the SB Cross rods are undervalued, I =believe.Best regards,Bob At 05:30 PM 2/8/2001 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote: Sounds to me like you, and a coupla other folks like Darrell, know =more than a little bit about some pretty nice rods that are highly =collectible but still somewhat affordable. For instance, I've been =looking for a Heddon under 8' for quite some time. As high priced as = You guys care to give us a little education? What South Bends, =Shakespeares, Monty's and H-I's should the rest of us be looking out =for? I just restored a Shakespeare A1362 Spring Brook. It's pretty =much of a club. But I didn't know that till I was finished. A little = What did your sig line used to be, Don? Something about wishing = grandfathers fished them. Funny, nobody asks why Leonards are =collected. Bob Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0920E.769BE6E0 Hi Harry: Shakespeare's, etc., provided primarily for identification/restoration = however, in addition, those rod's i.d.'d with nickle silver ferrules = listed, as casting/fishability takes a back seat to collection and = in this volume... no financial connection, blah, blah, but it's a great = reader between Gierach books.Hope I haven't bombed yourbandwidth.Ed From: maulucci Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:49 PMSubject: Re: Heddon?HI Harry:2 rods that fall into your category that I = enjoy are a South Bend Cross #1500 7'6" 5wt and an HI Tonka Queen 7'9" 5 = They are both fantastic rods that could be had for a good price. = Tonka Queens all the time for $250 (a good buy), I wish I could buy more = South Bend Cross rods. That's what I would collect if I had the time. = tapers are great and the SB Cross rods are undervalued, I = regards,BobAt 05:30 PM 2/8/2001 -0600, Harry Boyd=wrote: me = you, and a coupla other folks like Darrell, know more than a little = Canerods@aol.com wrote: Heddon and Granger are collected = collected.-- Harry Boyd"Simon = Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhttp://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218= AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523= bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com= ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0920E.769BE6E0-- from channer1@rmi.net Thu Feb 8 19:33:50 2001 f191Xoe03994 Subject: Re: lathes Mike;You can't even buy a decent drill for $64.00, what kind of lathe do youthink you are going to get for that amount? the first thing you need tocheck is if it has a hole thru the spindle, this sounds like an importwood lathe to me and most of them have a solid spindle.John mike canazon wrote: rexthe company was Central Machinery , out of the harbor frieghtcatalogue. mike canazon still on the bus from channer1@rmi.net Thu Feb 8 19:48:10 2001 f191m9e04649 Subject: Re: Spine Barry;It's another one of the fetishes started by Everett Garrison, few if anyof the production companies(including Payne, Leonard and Dickerson, allof whom used strips from 2 culms in a rod) did this. think about it, ifyou are working alone in your basement, making rods one at a time,doesn't it keep the clutter down to just deal with one culm at a time?John "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Art -- This isn't exactly the issue you raised, but your comment reminds me....Inever have understood the fetish about making a rod all from the sameculm.This could not have anything to do with consistency of the bamboo.Oppositesides of the same culm are different in many cases, while matching ispossible when you mix strips from different culms, if matching mattersthatmuch. It can't be a matter of quality in any practical sense, since theability to choose the best strips from multiple culms is at least as good away to guarantee quality of the material itself. I can only think that thisis one of those arbitrary and challenging approaches that gives peoplepleasure, rather than a matter of craftsmanship or quality in any othersense. Not that I'm against it for that reason. After all, fishing with bamboo oreven plastic poles is an arbitrary and challenging way to get a trout.(Plastic explosives work much better if you don't use too much.) So if it'smore fun to make a rod this way, go for it and enjoy it. But when this kindof thing gets cloaked in the aura of virtuous craftsmanship (not that yousaid this, Art, but it's not uncommon), as if anyone doing otherwise is asomewhat lower form of life, I instinctively look upwind to locate thestockyards I'm smelling. Sorry, I think I got a bit carried away. But no, not everyone does this. Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:24 PM Subject: Re: Spine Stuart,I split my tip STRIPS (not splines) from the same double-pieces (2no.1's, 2 no. 2's etc.) and then the tips are exactly the same. I thought alldid that....Art At 08:33 AM 02/08/2001 +0100, stuart moultrie wrote:Hi Bob, Do you match your tips? If so, how does one do this and follow eachsectionsindividual spine? How can I stagger nodes in a spiral from butt totipand stillfollow the spine? Should we view each section as totally independent ofeachother? When yes then there can be no real point in keeping split stripsin theorder that they come from the culm in. Is there anything to say that the sections then should not come from different culms? Thanks Stuart Bob Nunley wrote: I've built a lot of rods over the last decade + of rodmaking and I'veonlyhad a handful of rods that you could NOT find a spline on.Inescapable factof life in rodmaking, whether it be cane or composite. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Troutgetter@aol.com ; flyfish@defnet.com ;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:22 PMSubject: Re: Spline In a message dated 2/7/2001 8:07:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,nobler@satx.rr.com writes: certainculm, and glued, etc., isn't there always one side where it flexesquicker?This says to me, that each blank will have its own spline ???GMA >>I think soMike from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu Feb 8 19:50:37 2001 f191oae04818 Subject: Sanding blocks To all who have ordered sanding blocks they are in the USPS and on the way. I still have a few left if anyone else is interested.Bret from Canerods@aol.com Thu Feb 8 19:51:09 2001 f191p5e04910 Subject: Re: Heddon? --part1_5a.10e1aff4.27b4a6f6_boundary In a message dated 2/8/01 4:52:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, bmaulucci@adelphia.net writes: HI Harry:2 rods that fall into your category that I have and enjoy are a South Bend Cross #1500 7'6" 5wt and an HI Tonka Queen 7'9" 5 wt. They are both fantastic rods that could be had for a good price. Although I see Tonka Queens all the time for $250 (a good buy), I wish I could buy more of the South Bend Cross rods. That's what I would collect if I had the time. Jordan's tapers are great and the SB Cross rods are undervalued, I believe.Best regards,Bob Bob, steals if the phase of the moon etc. Heddon rods that are in need of rewrap are the best deal and look for 9' or 8''6" Montagues that have the mid range rolled welt STRAIGHT female NS ferrule (may be chromed - remember thiswas when chrome meant quality) or even hand welted Montagues. Say models of Splitswitch and above. But watch out for and stay away from the bait-cast/fly rod combo's. And don't buy the Rapidan's with chrome-plated brass bottle ferrules. Darrell makes a living at selling these things to eBay newbie punters. If the ferrules aren't cracked they soon will be. Any Heddon with rolled-welt rods - some of these can be had for $100. But watch out for the "square shoulder" hand welt Heddon rods in the models#14 - #20 and the Sears #115 & /#125. These ferrules are the only dogs in theHedon line. The rolled welt and the hand welted higher-end ferrules are fine, while the square ones seem to crack. All Heddons share the same taper for thesame ferrule size - more guides and better metal pieces are the only difference except for cane quality. Put more guides on a cheap Heddon and it is a nice rod. Also almost all high grade H-I and better S.B. rods with dry fly trout tapers are also okay. Any Granger rod that sneaks under $200. The $201 - to $350 range is where some nice rods can be had still. Short Montagues (7'0" & 7'6" - 2/2) of mostly Fishkill and above. H-I Tonka Queen, but not the Tonka Prince or Princess. The 7'6" S.B. 260, 290 and 291 are steals at $200 and sometimes can be had for well under $200. Any single tip 7'6" or 8'0" Heddon rods that fall into this price range are also good rods. "Beater" 8'6" or 8'0" Granger rods will fall into the higher end of this price range. If you can scarf repair tips on the 8'0" Granger rods then you might find a good deal. Some made in the UK rods will be decent dealsbecause most people stay away from them. Above this price - Look for quality shorter Heddons, Granger, a few Leonards and used modern rods. Above $650 - why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns --part1_5a.10e1aff4.27b4a6f6_boundary In a message dated2/8/01 4:52:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, bmaulucci@adelphia.net writes: HI Harry:2 rods that fall into your category that I have and enjoy are a SouthBend Cross #1500 7'6" 5wt and an HI Tonka Queen 7'9" 5 wt. They are both fantastic rods that could be had for a good price. Although I see Tonka Queens all the time for $250 (a good buy), I wish I could buy more of the South Bend Cross rods. That's what I would collect if I had the time. Jordan's tapers are great and the SB Cross rods are undervalued, Ibelieve.Best regards,Bob Bob, few steals if the phase of the moon etc. Heddon rods that are in need ofrewrap are the best deal and look for 9' or 8''6" Montagues that have the midrange rolled welt STRAIGHT female NS ferrule (may be chromed - rememberthis was when chrome meant quality) or even hand welted Montagues. Saymodels of Splitswitch and above. But watch out for and stay away from the bait-cast/fly rod combo's. And don't buy the Rapidan's with chrome-plated brass bottle ferrules.Darrell makes a living at selling these things to eBay newbie punters. If the ferrules aren't cracked they soon will be. Any Heddon with rolled-welt rods - some of these can be had for $100.But watch out for the "square shoulder" hand welt Heddon rods in themodels #14 - #20 and the Sears #115 & /#125. These ferrules are the onlydogs in the Hedon line. The rolled welt and the hand welted higher-end ferrules are fine,while the square ones seem to crack. All Heddons share the same taper forthe same ferrule size - more guides and better metal pieces are the onlydifference except for cane quality. Put more guides on a cheap Heddon and it is anice rod. Also almost all high grade H-I and better S.B. rods with dry fly trouttapers are also okay. Any Granger rod that sneaks under $200. The $201 - to $350 range is where some nice rods can be had still.Short Montagues (7'0" & 7'6" - 2/2) of mostly Fishkill and above. H-ITonka Queen, but not the Tonka Prince or Princess. The 7'6" S.B. 260, 290 and 291are steals at $200 and sometimes can be had for well under $200. Anysingle tip 7'6" or 8'0" Heddon rods that fall into this price range are also goodrods. this price range. If you can scarf repair tips on the 8'0" Granger rods thenyou might find a good deal. Some made in the UK rods will be decent dealsbecause most people stay away from them. Above this price - Look for quality shorter Heddons, Granger, a fewLeonards and used modern rods. Above $650 - why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns --part1_5a.10e1aff4.27b4a6f6_boundary-- from dickay@alltel.net Thu Feb 8 20:17:15 2001 f192HEe05913 srv.alltel.net Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:17:15 -0600 Subject: Re: lathes John, Mike, I got the Spring Harbor Freight catalogue yesterday and thatsame wood lathe is now $129.00. Mike, I don't think that this is what youwant. You could turn ferrule stations and cork grips if the spindle ishollow, but not much more. Shawn Pineos Franken Lathe would allow you todothat for less money.Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: lathes Mike;You can't even buy a decent drill for $64.00, what kind of lathe do youthink you are going to get for that amount? the first thing you need tocheck is if it has a hole thru the spindle, this sounds like an importwood lathe to me and most of them have a solid spindle.John mike canazon wrote: rexthe company was Central Machinery , out of the harbor frieghtcatalogue. mike canazon still on the bus from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Feb 8 20:24:54 2001 f192Ore06332 Subject: Re: Fw: Heddon? Sounds like I've received lots of good advice. Best adviceI got was, "Save your money -- you build a better rod thanany of these." I do hope that's true. But I appreciate allthe input as well. Harry Ed Riddle wrote: Bob gives good advice. For those of you interested in theold production rods, I recommend Michael Sinclair's"Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" ($25.00). Therein is anextensive listing of Monty's, Divine's, H-I's, Heddon's,S.B's, Granger's, Phillipson's, Shakespeare's, etc.,provided primarily for identification/restoration puposes;however, in addition, those rod's i.d.'d with nicklesilver ferrules (versus chrome plated brass) jump up aspreferred (sorry Darrell)... Tapers aren't listed, ascasting/fishability takes a back seat to collection andrestoration in this volume... no financial connection,blah, blah, but it's a great fireside reader betweenGierach books.Hope I haven't bombed your bandwidth. from dpeaston@wzrd.com Thu Feb 8 20:25:13 2001 f192PCe06347 Subject: Re: Bamboo Fly Rod Restoration Handbook - Michael Sinclair I am sorry to hear about Mike's health problems. He told me that he hadpurchased the Divine Trade marks and was about to begin making newDivines. I hope he has a speedy recovery and gets his project on track. I am not a rod historian like Mike but I do have most of the makes ofrods recently discussed on the list (Granger, Heddon, Edwards, HI-Highend, Monte Fishkill & South Bends, Divines etc). Each has its good pointsand bad. Most of these points do not correlate as well with the maker'sname as with the model and vintage. For example, Heddons were made innumerous models from the early 1920s until the 1950s. Late Heddons withtennite reel seats like the #8 were not very elegant, but the earlierdeluxe with walnut or cedar seats are! My 9' 2 1/2 F is a heavy mother tocast, My #2F 9'Folsum is a delight. I think it is perhaps a mistake togeneralize too much. -Doug At 04:44 PM 2/8/01 -0800, Darrell Lee wrote: Arial0000,0000,ffffHarry, Arial0000,0000,ffffLikeall VINTAGE cane fly rods, the shorter the more expensive... and under 8'is the 7.5' Heddons which is one of the more expensive Heddons regardlessof models... Arial0000,0000,ffffLongerNEW rods today are more expensive which is the opposite... that is ofcourse because, a 3 piece takes more time and parts to build than a 2piece rod... Arial0000,0000,ffffYesthe 1362 is a broomstick made by South Bend...but if you find an EDWARDSor a HEDDON built Shakespeare... you will be plesantly surprised how nicethey are... Same with the other private label rods made by goodcompanies... Those are the best buys... I recently picked up a "MarshallFields Store for Men" rod... made by Granger! Don has one made byHeddon! And I told him to buy that one... I still kick myself as it wasadvertised as an 8' rod and it was a 7.5' rod for a BARGAIN price! Don,you still owe me! Or the Heddon Black Beauty 8' I told him to buy...When I saw that one... I was again bummed! It had a rare cork reel seat. Arial0000,0000,ffffThehigh grade South Bend rods are as good as the Heddons and Grangers butagain, you need to know WHICH ones are the good ones so to find out, youneed a Michael Sinclair Bamboo Fly rod Restoration Handbook which tellsyou which ones are the good ones... This book is a must have for anyonewho collects or restores vintage/classic rods. Here's the link to findthe book... Arial0000,0000,ffffwww.vfish.net/sinclair.htm Arial0000,0000,ffffMichaelis having some health issues and cannot work on rods for at least a yearaccording to an email I received from him yesterday. So, buy his books tohelp him out. The Divine book is out of print. He also wrote the Heddonbook as well which is available. I also have a few autographed copiesavailable as well. But these will probably be the last ones because ofthe above reason. It took him about a month to sign this last batch Ijust received. Arial0000,0000,ffffDarrellLee www.vfish.net Tahoma-----OriginalMessage----- From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu HarryBoyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 3:31 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Heddon? Don, Sounds to me like you, and a coupla other folks like Darrell, knowmore than a little bit about some pretty nice rods that are highlycollectible but still somewhat affordable. For instance, I've beenlooking for a Heddon under 8' for quite some time. As high priced asthey are, I may be looking quite a while longer. You guys care to give us a little education? What South Bends,Shakespeares, Monty's and H-I's should the rest of us be looking outfor? I just restored a Shakespeare A1362 Spring Brook. It's pretty muchof a club. But I didn't know that till I was finished. A littleinformation from some of you would be a big help. What did your sig line used to be, Don? Something about wishing yourcollected Garrisons and Paynes, but really collecting Monty's? Harry Canerods@aol.com wrote: arialHeddon and Grangerarecollected because so many of our fathers and arialgrandfathers fished them.Funny,nobody asks why Leonards are collected. -- Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rods http://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu Feb 8 20:32:20 2001 f192WKe06962 Subject: Re: Heddon? Bob,I know a guy here in So.bend that has a brand new never fished Cross/SBrod. He had two but I sold one for him when I had my store. He bought thme both new from a sporting goods store in So.Bend.Bret from flyfish@defnet.com Thu Feb 8 20:39:21 2001 f192dKe07389 Subject: Mike Sinclair own's Devine? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C091B2.988A98C0 Wow!Mike if your out there, hire me to build e'm with you!I would love to be part of that project! Were do I send my Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C091B2.988A98C0 Wow!Mike if your out there, hire me to = you!I would love to be part of that = send my Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C091B2.988A98C0-- from harms1@pa.net Thu Feb 8 20:40:42 2001 f192eee07527 Thu, 8 Feb 2001 21:40:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Spline All, I think I'm missing something with this "spline" issue. I am able to detecta spline only in those rods of mine that have some small imperfection in theprocess of construction. But I have never been able to find the spline in asection that I got right. My assumption has always been that if you havechosen a good culm in the first place and built very carefully, there wil beno spline. I've been doing this for twenty-five years, and always believed that (except I've had more than a few. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Spline Stuart,I think you've asked some excellent questions. Unfortunately, I canthink of no intelligent response. Like you, I do my best to keep eachstripin position, then fret with spline later. I don't worry so much about thetip to butt relationship as I do trying to mirror each tip. I had one rodon which I found it impossible. Harry Boyd stuart moultrie wrote: Hmmm.... After spending all that time choosing a culm, splitting as straight aspossible, marking the strips to make sure they are right next to eachother in the finished rod, keeping strip number one of the butt sectionin line with strip number one of the tip section, and generally doingnothing that would compromise the parallel path of the power fibersfrombutt to tip, which should more or less give me a rod with the generalcharacteristics of the original culm (yes I have experimented with usingstrips from opposing positions in the culm)......... I am now supposedto roll my finished section on the workbench to find the "spline" and inthe process ignore the original butt to tip path the power fibers took!!! Does this mean that all the work I have put into keeping strips togetherand in line is pointless or that there is no "spline" that can be foundon a finished rod. Stuart --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from harms1@pa.net Thu Feb 8 20:42:52 2001 f192gpe07759 Thu, 8 Feb 2001 21:42:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Spline Oh, alright! Spine, spine, spine! You happy now?Cheez, wadda grouch, John. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Spline Guy. It's not a spline. It's a spine.JohnZ Harry Boyd wrote: Stuart,I think you've asked some excellent questions. Unfortunately, I canthink of no intelligent response. Like you, I do my best to keep eachstripin position, then fret with spline later. I don't worry so much aboutthetip to butt relationship as I do trying to mirror each tip. I had onerodon which I found it impossible. Harry Boyd stuart moultrie wrote: Hmmm.... After spending all that time choosing a culm, splitting as straight aspossible, marking the strips to make sure they are right next to eachother in the finished rod, keeping strip number one of the buttsectionin line with strip number one of the tip section, and generally doingnothing that would compromise the parallel path of the power fibersfrombutt to tip, which should more or less give me a rod with the generalcharacteristics of the original culm (yes I have experimented withusingstrips from opposing positions in the culm)......... I am now supposedto roll my finished section on the workbench to find the "spline" andinthe process ignore the original butt to tip path the power fibers took!!! Does this mean that all the work I have put into keeping stripstogetherand in line is pointless or that there is no "spline" that can befoundon a finished rod. Stuart --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from canazon@mindspring.com Thu Feb 8 20:51:18 2001 f192pFe08304 Subject: re: group cork This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09218.6EC74F40 i'd go for a group order myselfstill ridin the bus, mike canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09218.6EC74F40 i'd go for a group order myself canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09218.6EC74F40-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Feb 8 20:51:25 2001 f192pNe08309 Subject: Re: Spline I don't know, Bill. I've seen some sections that were as close to perfect as Ican imagine. They still had a definite stronger side and weaker side. Thegraphite boys use a little ball bearing gizmo to locate the strong and weaksides, or as Tom Kirkman calls it, "The effective spine" (or is it Spline,John?). I suspect we might find a strong side in more of our strips if wereally searched for them. One suggestion I read here several years ago suggested holding each flatagainsta table, and vibrating the tip end. The end that vibrates in closest to astraight line is the one you want in the casting plane. I've tried it. Itworks, sometimes. Harry Harry WILLIAM HARMS wrote: I've been doing this for twenty-five years, and always believed that (except I've had more than a few. from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 8 20:54:22 2001 f192sKe08667 Thu, 8 Feb 2001 21:53:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Heddon? --=====================_21765003==_.ALT Good point. You can not get an old rod that even comes close to what I could get from AJ, Genesee Valley Rods, etc.... at under a grand. That's why I decided that I would only buy Jordan built SB Cross rods. I wish I had one of every model. It drastically cuts the field down and takes the temptation away. For the cost of a cheap $300 HI, SB, Monty, Heddon, or whatever, I could build myself about 6 quads that would bury it.Best regards,Bob Above $650 - why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_21765003==_.ALT Good point. You can not get an old rod that even comesclose to what I could get from AJ, Genesee Valley Rods, etc.... at undera grand. That's why I decided that I would only buy Jordan built SB Crossrods. I wish I had one of every model. It drastically cuts the field downand takes the temptation away. For the cost of a cheap $300 HI, SB,Monty, Heddon, or whatever, I could build myself about 6 quads that wouldbury it. Best regards,Bob Above $650 -why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_21765003==_.ALT-- from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Thu Feb 8 21:27:19 2001 f193RIe10049 Subject: Re: (no subject) I've bought 15 culm from him. It was all well worth the price. He didn't even bill me until he had shipped the cane. Don't think I would have been that trusting were the situation reversed. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 06:14 PM 2/8/01 -0500, you wrote:Has anyone on the list had experience purchasing bamboo through AndyRoyer,>The Bamboo Broker. I know Charles Demarest has a solid reputationamong thelist, but I can get three times the raw material from Andy for the sameprice. As a novice I think I might need the extra material for 'learningcurve' from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 8 21:32:43 2001 f193Wge10347 ; Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:20:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Heddon? --=====================_23387239==_.ALT I'm sorry guys, that sounded arrogant. I didn't mean to come off as such.Bob "For the cost of a cheap $300 HI, SB, Monty, Heddon, or whatever, I could build myself about 6 quads that would bury it.Best regards,Bob" Above $650 - why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_23387239==_.ALT I'm sorry guys, that sounded arrogant. I didn't mean to come off as such. Bob "For the cost of a cheap $300 HI, SB, Monty,Heddon, or whatever, I could build myself about 6 quads that would buryit. Best regards,Bob" Above $650 -why aren't you buying new from AJ et al. IMHO, Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_23387239==_.ALT-- from flyfish@defnet.com Thu Feb 8 22:09:00 2001 f19490e11463 Subject: Re: Heddon? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_015C_01C091BF.1FC418A0 Bob you don't have to apologize for that! Your right.I mean the way I figure it most of us out there (I would expect) are =producing better quality than than your average mass produced trade rod. =If were not ,what are we doing then. LOL I'm not saying we shouldn't =give respect to those who came before , but its just natural that we =would improve.I mean just look how detail we get in these discussions. Ifthat determination goes into our rods, I would say the people who buy =our rods are getting the best we can possibly offer.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_015C_01C091BF.1FC418A0 Bob you don't have to apologize for = right.I mean the way I figure it most of us = would expect) are producing better quality than than your average mass = shouldn't give respect to those who came before , but its just natural = would improve.I mean just look how detail we get in = discussions. Ifthat determination goes into our rods,= offer.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_015C_01C091BF.1FC418A0-- from Dean_Burrill@mcafee.com Thu Feb 8 22:17:47 2001 f194Hle11843 (5.5.2650.21) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Collecting cane This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0924F.67A03C40 AMEN! -----Original Message----- Subject: Collecting cane There are fewer Divine collectors, but they still go for a good price... AskDean... he's one of the biggest collectors of Divine. Also, the rod's aremore of the antique variety which I feel are way undervalued... even the10'ers. Darrell -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Heddon? I don't understand how they put a value on most rods.Take my favorite the Devine's. They were built with as good of hardware as any Leonard(maybe better) I'm ducking my head! Ididn't say cast better.LOLAll nickel silver parts,Agate stripper ,swelled butt ,well documented andlimited compared to Heddons. It was twice the rod Heddon was,so why areHeddons valued higher?Tony Miller ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0924F.67A03C40 AMEN! -----Original Message-----From: Darrell Lee 08, 2001 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Collecting caneThere are fewer Divine collectors, but they still go for a good the rod's are more of the antique variety which I feel are way undervalued... even the 10'ers. Darrell -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu MillerSent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 3:47 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Heddon? value on most rods.Take my favorite the Devine's. They were as good of hardware as anyLeonard(maybe better) I'm ducking my head! I didn't say cast better.LOLAll nickel silver parts,Agate stripper,swelled butt ,well documented and limited compared to Heddons. It was twice therod Heddon was,so why are Heddons valued higher?Tony Miller ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0924F.67A03C40-- from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Thu Feb 8 22:20:07 2001 f194K1e12064 Subject: Re: Heddon? DonGood point! Vintage rods are our biggest competition. Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from Dean_Burrill@mcafee.com Thu Feb 8 22:27:55 2001 hosts.mcafee.com [208.228.235.224] (may be forged)) f194Rne12457 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: CaneClinic Closed (was Mike Sinclair own's Devine?) This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09250.C76A15D2 Tony's note prompted me to share this. I got this note from Mr. Sinclairyesterday. Those of you that know him may want to send him an encouragingnote. Dear Friends, I'm sending this email out to all who have been friends of the Cane Clinic. It's important, so I hope you'll read on. that have finally come to a head in the last two weeks. I'm not giving up, but I must give in to the reality of my situation. As friends and clients, you have a right and a need to know how things stand with me. As a result of my health and occupational requirements, I will be unable to work on rods. At least for a year or so. It's not a matter of the time involved, it's the end result of my health troubles. I am having problems with my vision and with numbness in my hands. That pretty much rules out being able to do the type of work that is required for rod restoration. The Docs think I may be able to regain my manual dexterity, and there is hope that my vision will be restored. It's pretty blurry at times, though occasionally it clears up for a little while. To those whose rods have not yet been touched, I send my most sincere apologies. I will return your rods at my expense. I hope that you will be able to find another competent restorer to fill your needs. I've heard some good things about the work done by my buddy Dave Cottengim (Lublgrud@aol.com). If you'd like other recommendations, I'm sure that Bob Corsetti or Len Codella can steer you in the right direction. To those whose rods are "in progress", I will contact you individually. I can offer only two possibilities; one is that I return your rod "as is" with no charge for the work done so far, or that I keep the rod(s) and try towork on them as I can. I'll contact you individually let you decide. To all of my clients I offer my most sincere apologies for any inconvenience I may have caused, and I hope we can do business again someday in the future. Needless to say, this also puts the Divine Rod Company on hold. If you've read the Divine book, you know that this company was snake-bit throughoutits history and it appears that tradition is continuing. Thanks for your patience, and your understanding. Michael Sinclair The Cane Clinic / The Divine Rod Co. http://www.caneclinic.com 3121 Benton Road Paducah, KY 42003 -----Original Message----- Subject: Mike Sinclair own's Devine? Wow!Mike if your out there, hire me to build e'm with you!I would love to be part of that project! Were do I send myresume? Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html flyfish@defnet.com ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09250.C76A15D2 Tony's yesterday. Those of you that know him may want to send him an encouraging note. Dear Friends,I'm sending this email out to all who have been friends of the Cane Clinic. It's important, so I hope you'll read on. that have finally come to a head in the last two weeks. I'm not giving up, but I must give in to the reality of my situation. As friends and clients, you have a right and a need to know how things stand with me. As a result of my health and occupational requirements, I will be unable to work on rods. At least for a year or so. It's not a matter of the time involved, it's the end result of my health troubles. I am having problems with my vision and with numbness in my hands. That pretty much rulesout being able to do the type of work that is required for rod restoration.The Docs think I may be able to regain my manual dexterity, and there is hope that my vision will be restored. It's pretty blurry at times, though occasionally it clears up for a little while.To those whose rods have not yet been touched, I send my most sincere apologies. I will return your rods at my expense. I hope that you will be able to find another competent restorer to fill your needs. I've heardsome good things about the work done by my buddy Dave Cottengim (Lublgrud@aol.com). If you'd like other recommendations, I'm sure thatBob Corsetti or Len Codella can steer you in the right direction. To those whose rods are "in progress", I will contact you individually. I can offer only two possibilities; one is that I return your rod "as is" with no charge for the work done so far, or that I keep the rod(s) and try towork on them as I can. I'll contact you individually let you decide.To all of my clients I offer my most sincere apologies for any inconvenience I may have caused, and I hope we can do business againsome day in the future.Needless to say, this also puts the Divine Rod Company on hold. If you've read the Divine book, you know that this company was snake-bitthroughout its history and it appears that tradition is continuing.Thanks for your patience, and your understanding.Michael Sinclair The Cane Clinic / The Divine Rod Co.http://www.caneclinic.com3121 Benton RoadPaducah, KY 42003 -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller 2001 6:36 Mike Sinclair own's Devine?Wow!Mike if your out there, hire me to build e'mwith you!I would love to be part of that project! Weredo I send my Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html flyfish@defnet.com ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09250.C76A15D2-- from flyfish@defnet.com Thu Feb 8 22:28:30 2001 f194SUe12543 Subject: Re: Collecting cane This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0173_01C091C1.D91F59C0 DeanDo you have a fairy by Devine?I would love to know what the taper is on that rod?That is the only one I have not actually seen only a drawing in Mike's =book.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0173_01C091C1.D91F59C0 Dean Devine?I would love to know what the taper is = rod?That is the only one I have not = a drawing in Mike's book.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0173_01C091C1.D91F59C0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 8 22:30:31 2001 f194UUe12825 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 00:30:18 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: lathes Mike,keep in mind also that you must have a 3 jaw chuck (4 if you buildquads) amback to using the Franken lathe until I get a chuck for the Jet. The chucksare worthalmost as much as the lathe. Makes getting a metal lathe look way moreappealinginstead of a wood when you consider OVERALL price and what you can do withit. Mostsmall metal lathes come with the chuck.I may set the Jet aside for woodworking and get a small metal lathemyself! Shawn Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote: John, Mike, I got the Spring Harbor Freight catalogue yesterday and thatsame wood lathe is now $129.00. Mike, I don't think that this is what youwant. You could turn ferrule stations and cork grips if the spindle ishollow, but not much more. Shawn Pineos Franken Lathe would allow you todothat for less money.Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message -----From: "channer" Cc: Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:37 PMSubject: Re: lathes Mike;You can't even buy a decent drill for $64.00, what kind of lathe do youthink you are going to get for that amount? the first thing you need tocheck is if it has a hole thru the spindle, this sounds like an importwood lathe to me and most of them have a solid spindle.John mike canazon wrote: rexthe company was Central Machinery , out of the harbor frieghtcatalogue. mike canazon still on the bus from Dean_Burrill@mcafee.com Thu Feb 8 22:34:50 2001 hosts.mcafee.com [208.228.235.224] (may be forged)) f194Yie13073 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Collecting cane This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09251.C7C06A3A Yes I do. I'll measure them and post them to the list. There are a coupleother list members waiting for the tapers. from what I can tell there aretwo distinct tapers for the Fairy. The 1917- 1920 (H series serial numbers)rods were softer and fuller flexing, while the Later rods (R series) weredefinitely faster and more of a tip action. I'll post them both in the nextweek or so. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Collecting cane DeanDo you have a fairy by Devine?I would love to know what the taper is on that rod?That is the only one I have not actually seen only a drawing in Mike's book.Tony Miller ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09251.C7C06A3A Yes I couple are both in the next week or so. -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller 2001 8:26 Re: Collecting caneDean Devine?I would love to know what the taper is onthat rod?That is the only one I have not actually seen only a drawing in Mike's book.TonyMiller ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09251.C7C06A3A-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Feb 8 22:38:12 2001 f194cBe13323 Subject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from Dean_Burrill@mcafee.com Thu Feb 8 22:50:10 2001 hosts.mcafee.com [208.228.235.224] (may be forged)) f194o4e13925 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: My little gripe If this was me, I'm sorry. I've been guilty of it before. Every time Ichange computers I forget to straighten it out. -----Original Message----- Subject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from saweiss@flash.net Thu Feb 8 23:07:22 2001 f1957Le14547 f1957HV120048 Subject: Re: Banty Rods I don't know if all would agree that the Paul Young Midge is a banty, but Isure have liked the ones I've made. They are very sensitive, cast well atshort range, and have the guts for longer casts when needed.distanceSteve from Troutgetter@aol.com Thu Feb 8 23:34:43 2001 f195Yge15290 Subject: Re: (no subject) I've bought from Andy and I'll buy again.Mike from goodaple@tcac.net Thu Feb 8 23:43:21 2001 f195hLe15606 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) Subject: Re: My little gripe Organization: How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not. I won'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to know sothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods and stuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Fri Feb 9 00:34:08 2001 f196Y8e16717 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: New vs Old Harry, That wasn't your question... You now raise the discussion betweenvintage/classic/antique rods and new rods... The vintage/classic rods (the group of 40+ year old rods) are collected andsometimes fished. The new rods are fished and sometimes collected... Vintage rods are fun to restore, fish and collect and they usually only goUP in value like money in the bank or in a bond fund. Art, antiques,collectibles all fall into this category. Many people including myselfbuy/own/collect vintage rods for all the above reasons plus they are goodinvestments as well. Like all investments, occasionally your timing might beoff and you overpay or the market might shift and that investment may fallout of popularity for a while depressing prices but in the long term thevintage rods are a good investment that are fun too! New rods are like new cars... the day you use it, it drops 20-30% in value,but in 20-40 years, it will be added to the collectible category and thenrise in value if the quality is good and the design is sound. I must say, that having the pleasure of selling both vintage rods and someof the new rods for members of the list has been a real joy... The qualityof workmanship the modern cane rod maker is superb and certainly beats allthe production rods and even most of the classic old, dead guys... Theasthetics, the appearance, the fittings, reel seats, finish... bravo! What I'd like to see someday is the modern rod makers on the list gettingtogether and designing new taper designs and somehow get the tapersevaluated. It's certainly easier for me to sell a rod from a taper ofGarrison, Dickerson, Payne, etc. that to sell a rod from Joe Smith, maker,with a Joe Smith Taper... It could be the best fly rod on the planet, but itwould be hard to sell until enough people have had a chance to build it,test it, evaluate it, etc. (Sorry if there is a Joe Smith on the list)... Perhaps a committee or at the gatherings, special time should be given torods that are of a makers own taper and some expertcasters/guides/fisherscould evaluate the taper and like the Sir D or some of AJ's or Waynestapers... others would be acknowledged for their taper and contribution tothe craft. A site with rod reviews could be setup so anyone can have accessto the reviews instead of just being a member of the list only having accessto the comments. Whoa... don't get me started... I'm off my soapbox now... End of Manifesto... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Fw: Heddon? Sounds like I've received lots of good advice. Best adviceI got was, "Save your money -- you build a better rod thanany of these." I do hope that's true. But I appreciate allthe input as well. Harry Ed Riddle wrote: Bob gives good advice. For those of you interested in theold production rods, I recommend Michael Sinclair's"Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" ($25.00). Therein is anextensive listing of Monty's, Divine's, H-I's, Heddon's,S.B's, Granger's, Phillipson's, Shakespeare's, etc.,provided primarily for identification/restoration puposes;however, in addition, those rod's i.d.'d with nicklesilver ferrules (versus chrome plated brass) jump up aspreferred (sorry Darrell)... Tapers aren't listed, ascasting/fishability takes a back seat to collection andrestoration in this volume... no financial connection,blah, blah, but it's a great fireside reader betweenGierach books.Hope I haven't bombed your bandwidth. from dutcher@email.msn.com Fri Feb 9 02:45:50 2001 f198jne18274 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 00:45:45 -0800 Subject: Re: Banty Rods I have been under the impression that "banty rod" is a term applied to asmall rod that was made from a larger rod. For example, using the tip andmid-section of a 9' rod to make a 6' rod. Am I fishing or lawn casting onthis one? Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Steven A. Weiss Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 9:07 PMSubject: Re: Banty Rods I don't know if all would agree that the Paul Young Midge is a banty, butIsure have liked the ones I've made. They are very sensitive, cast well atshort range, and have the guts for longer casts when needed.distanceSteve from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Feb 9 05:11:47 2001 f19BBke19285 f19BBZW22278; Subject: Re: Spine Organization: vet John I think the other factor, seldom considered, is that if you (like me) are ahobby rodmaker, working alone in the shed that houses also your wife's carand your home brewing enterprise, building rods from strips split from oneculm, and kept in consistent serial order, makes good sense because, apart from anything else, it makes it easier to stagger the nodes, and ifnecessary, to replace strips with similar ones. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Spine Barry;It's another one of the fetishes started by Everett Garrison, few if anyof the production companies(including Payne, Leonard and Dickerson, allof whom used strips from 2 culms in a rod) did this. think about it, ifyou are working alone in your basement, making rods one at a time,doesn't it keep the clutter down to just deal with one culm at a time?John "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Art -- This isn't exactly the issue you raised, but your comment remindsme....Inever have understood the fetish about making a rod all from the sameculm.This could not have anything to do with consistency of the bamboo.Oppositesides of the same culm are different in many cases, while matching ispossible when you mix strips from different culms, if matching mattersthatmuch. It can't be a matter of quality in any practical sense, since theability to choose the best strips from multiple culms is at least asgood away to guarantee quality of the material itself. I can only think thatthisis one of those arbitrary and challenging approaches that gives peoplepleasure, rather than a matter of craftsmanship or quality in any othersense. Not that I'm against it for that reason. After all, fishing with bamboooreven plastic poles is an arbitrary and challenging way to get a trout.(Plastic explosives work much better if you don't use too much.) So ifit'smore fun to make a rod this way, go for it and enjoy it. But when thiskindof thing gets cloaked in the aura of virtuous craftsmanship (not thatyousaid this, Art, but it's not uncommon), as if anyone doing otherwise isasomewhat lower form of life, I instinctively look upwind to locate thestockyards I'm smelling. Sorry, I think I got a bit carried away. But no, not everyone does this. Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:24 PM Subject: Re: Spine Stuart,I split my tip STRIPS (not splines) from the same double-pieces(2no.1's, 2 no. 2's etc.) and then the tips are exactly the same. I thoughtalldid that....Art At 08:33 AM 02/08/2001 +0100, stuart moultrie wrote:Hi Bob, Do you match your tips? If so, how does one do this and follow eachsectionsindividual spine? How can I stagger nodes in a spiral from butt totipand stillfollow the spine? Should we view each section as totally independent ofeachother? When yes then there can be no real point in keeping splitstripsin theorder that they come from the culm in. Is there anything to say thatthe sections then should not come from different culms? Thanks Stuart Bob Nunley wrote: I've built a lot of rods over the last decade + of rodmaking and I'veonlyhad a handful of rods that you could NOT find a spline on.Inescapable factof life in rodmaking, whether it be cane or composite. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Troutgetter@aol.com ; flyfish@defnet.com ;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:22 PMSubject: Re: Spline In a message dated 2/7/2001 8:07:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,nobler@satx.rr.com writes: certainculm, and glued, etc., isn't there always one side where it flexesquicker?This says to me, that each blank will have its own spline ???GMA >>I think soMike from HomeyDKlown@att.net Fri Feb 9 05:19:18 2001 f19BJCe19478 ;Fri, 9 Feb 2001 11:19:08 +0000 Subject: Re: My little gripe If you have Netscrape, go to edit-preferences. Choose the "Mail &Groups" option and then the "messages" option. There's a check box thatsays "By Default, Send HTML Messages". That box should NOT be checked. That should do it. Randall Gregory wrote: How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not. I won'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to know sothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods and stuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:35 PMSubject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Feb 9 05:20:38 2001 f19BKae19620 f19BKWW22869; Subject: Re: My little gripe Organization: vet Harry I don't even know what that means. Am I doing it? Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not. Iwon'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to know sothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods and stuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:35 PMSubject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from homeydklown@att.net Fri Feb 9 07:22:12 2001 f19DMBe21172 Fri, 09 Feb 2001 13:22:08 +0000 Subject: Two Banty rod tapers Here are a couple of tapers I received from a friend who shall remain nameless (Art Port) ;-) last night. The first is a Payne 4' 4" 2 piece rod. I'm not sure of the line weight of either rod, though I'd guess at a four DT... 0 0.0385 0.04610 0.05915 0.06220 0.06925 0.077 26 0.07930 0.08435 0.08940 0.09445 0.10150 0.10152 0.101 The second is a Hardy 4'4" 2 piece A&F banty. 0 0.0705 0.08810 0.10715 0.11920 0.13325 0.146 20 0.13325 0.14630 0.17535 0.18240 0.19045 0.20550 0.20552 0.205 Estimate, under cork. According to the sheet these tapers came on, the Hardy taper was submitted to the list by Ray Gould. As for the Payne, I'll insert a comment on the spreadsheet that gives a little explanation... I hope this helps satisfy some curiosities on the list. I'd be interested to hear about the results of these numbers if they actually become flyrods. Enjoy, Dennis from beadman@mac.com Fri Feb 9 07:34:23 2001 f19DYMe21451 Subject: Re: My little gripe At 7:27 AM -0800 on 2/9/01, Dennis Haftel wrote about Re: My little gripe If you have Netscrape, go to edit-preferences. Choose the "Mail &Groups" option and then the "messages" option. There's a check box thatsays "By Default, Send HTML Messages". That box should NOT be checked. Thanks, Dennis. Here's another: If you are using Eudora on a PC, go to menu TOOLS, select OPTIONS. Scroll down the icons on the left side until you find STYLED TEXT and left-click on it once. On the right side of the window you'll see the statement "When sending mail with styled text (HTML)" and three little buttons below it. Click on the one that says "Send Plain Text Only", so that a little black dot appears inside the box. If you are using Eudora on a Mac, go to menu SPECIAL, select SETTINGS, scroll down the icons on the left side until you find STYLED TEXT and click on it once. On the right side of the window you'll see the statement "When sending mail with applied fonts & styles", and three little buttons below it. Click on the one that says "Send Plain Text Only", so that a little black dot appears inside the box. Claude from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Feb 9 07:57:37 2001 f19Dvbe21886 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 05:57:02 -0800 Subject: Re: My little gripe Dean,I honestly don't remember who does and who doesn't use html. Didn'tmean to imply that anyone in particular was the culprit.Harry "Burrill, Dean" wrote: If this was me, I'm sorry. I've been guilty of it before. Every time Ichange computers I forget to straighten it out. -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:36 PM Subject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Feb 9 08:05:00 2001 f19E4xe22179 Subject: Re: Banty Rods Well, Dick,Banty rods is one of those terms like spline/spine. ;-) It is used withmultiple intentions. For instance, a Payne Banty rod was a 4'4" rod used bysome with great delight. A banty rod made from the mid and tip of a cheapGIimport is probably going to be a dog.Maybe we should differentiate by using Banty and banty.... Harry "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: I have been under the impression that "banty rod" is a term applied to asmall rod that was made from a larger rod. For example, using the tip andmid-section of a 9' rod to make a 6' rod. Am I fishing or lawn casting onthis one? Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Steven A. Weiss Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 9:07 PMSubject: Re: Banty Rods I don't know if all would agree that the Paul Young Midge is a banty, butIsure have liked the ones I've made. They are very sensitive, cast well atshort range, and have the guts for longer casts when needed.distanceSteve --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 9 08:08:05 2001 f19E84e22399 Subject: Re: Heddon? Harry,I love my 9' Montague Manitou 3wt. The Manitous (with the Landmanreelseat) are the top grade and the only Montagues worth buying,IMHO.... however, Bob Corsetti has a 9' Varney in his latest catalogue.That is something to drool over for appearance, tho' I don't know how itcasts. Of course, it is a one off. The problem with most Montagues(Redwing and below) is that they overbuilt them to ensure sturdiness;since they would be powersanding the blank after glue-up they had toleave extra substance. I'm sure another reason was the understandingthat this was "Everyman's" rod and would be subject to abuse.Another fine rod line is the Edwards' "Bristol". Go for the F7 andabove. The difference between the rods was mostly in the hardware, thetapers are all the same; but, of course, blanks were selected to matchhardware. Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Harry Boyd wrote: Don,Sounds to me like you, and a coupla other folks like Darrell, knowmore than a little bit about some pretty nice rods that are highlycollectible but still somewhat affordable. For instance, I've beenlooking for a Heddon under 8' for quite some time. As high priced asthey are, I may be looking quite a while longer.You guys care to give us a little education? What South Bends,Shakespeares, Monty's and H-I's should the rest of us be looking outfor? I just restored a Shakespeare A1362 Spring Brook. It's prettymuch of a club. But I didn't know that till I was finished. A littleinformation from some of you would be a big help.What did your sig line used to be, Don? Something about wishingyour collected Garrisons and Paynes, but really collecting Monty's? Harry from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 9 08:15:39 2001 f19EFce22769 Rodmakers Subject: Re: Spline Bill,I agree, but only because I believe the experience of an old rodmaker. SamCarlson would scrap any section that had a "jump" as he called it.The graphite and fiberglass makers must inevitably have a Sp(l)ine in theirproduct because of overlap of material. It shouldn't be necessary in cane,though I'm not sure it is seriously deterimental.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ WILLIAM HARMS wrote: All, I think I'm missing something with this "spline" issue. I am able to detecta spline only in those rods of mine that have some small imperfection intheprocess of construction. But I have never been able to find the spline in asection that I got right. My assumption has always been that if you havechosen a good culm in the first place and built very carefully, there wil beno spline. I've been doing this for twenty-five years, and always believed that (except I've had more than a few. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ from penr0295@bendnet.com Fri Feb 9 09:32:32 2001 f19FWVe25631 f19FWSf92495 Subject: Rod Restoration Info Request A person with an FE Thomas has contacted me saying that the mid- sectionofthe rod is separating and needs repair. He asked if I knew any restorers,but I don't really have any contact information for anyone. I wouldappreciate any names of persons with experience with this kind of work. Idon't know how extensive the separation is.Thanks,Thomas Penrose from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri Feb 9 10:12:57 2001 f19GCue27169 with Novell_GroupWise; Fri, 09 Feb 2001 08:12:23 -0800 Subject: Spine testing of strips f19GCve27170 must be really discouraging and inefficient to toss a section after all thework that went into getting to that point. Particularly a hand planer. In arrow making, the shafts are placed on a spine tester and matched interms of spine weight, which has an affect on how the arrow leaves the shelfand recovers from the archers paradox. Although of the same wood a set ofarrow shafts will have different spine weights due to grain and I assumelocation in the tree the wood came from. I was thinking that it might be better to test the deflection of the bamboostrips before they are glued up. This way you could verify that the stripshave similar power, and match six strips that are within a pre- determinedtolerance. I assume this would eliminate the serious jumps. The nodes would play a role because of their increased stiffness, but if using3x3 or 2x2x2 then the strips of the same node spacing could be tested forsimilarity. Might be another option for those that seek no spine in the finished section. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Fri Feb 9 12:21:09 2001 f19IL7e10904 Subject: Spine or Spline: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0929C.3A93EBA0 Just thought I would add my two cents after watching the thread on thissubject. It had me doubting that the term spline was correct so I went tothe dictionary for the definitions. Spine is the spinal or vertebral column;backbone. Any backbonelike part. Spline is a long, narrow, thin strip ofwood, metal, etc.; slat. One is used for the biological and the other todescribed made sections. I will continue to use the term Spline that wastaught to me by my mentor and referred to in many books on rodmaking. Inmyexperience spline does count and does make a difference in performance, Iwould refer you to M. Sinclair book Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook wherehesays "Check the spline of rod yourself; the factories often paid noattention at all to the spline and you can improve the performance of therod if you take the time to spline it properly." The comment that splinedoesn't count is in my opinion one more step in producing a so-so rod. Thisis just my opinion. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0929C.3A93EBA0 Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 Just =thought Iwould add my two cents after watching the thread on this subject. It had =me doubtingthat the term spline was correct so I went to the dictionary for thedefinitions. Spine is the spinal or vertebral column; backbone. Anybackbonelike part. Spline is a long, narrow, thin strip of wood, metal, =etc.;slat. One is used for the biological and the other to described made =sections.I will continue to use the term Spline that was taught to me by my =mentor and referredto in many books on rodmaking. In my experience spline does count and =does makea difference in performance, I would refer you to M. Sinclair book =Bamboo RodRestoration Handbook where he says "Check the spline of rod =yourself; thefactories often paid no attention at all to the spline and you can =improve theperformance of the rod if you take the time to spline it properly." = doesn't =count isin my opinion one more step in producing a so-so rod. This is just my = Signature" Upstream =Always, Tim Doughty Rodmaker ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0929C.3A93EBA0-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Fri Feb 9 13:12:57 2001 f19JCue12569 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:13:05 -0800 Subject: The Spine in the Splines This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C09280.EB61D3A0 Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am I doing it? The input on thissubject has been very informative and much appreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a little back ground information onsome of these finer points of discussion. Bamboo Beaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would have little to do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would be most significant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C09280.EB61D3A0 name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010209T181316ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C09280.EB61D3A0-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 9 13:50:41 2001 f19Joee14755 2001 11:50:42 PST Subject: Re: The Spine in the Splines richard, i think that is the main point. if you placethe guides in relation to the spine your rod has hasless tendency to wobble or twist. that's all. ...andwhether you call it spline, spine, pine, orin-the-groove most everyone knows what we arereferring to. timothy --- "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote:Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am I doingit? The input on thissubject has been very informative and muchappreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a little background information onsome of these finer points of discussion. BambooBeaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would have littleto do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would be mostsignificant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=QUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=0D=0ABrinnon, Washington 98320- 0349=0D=0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010209T181316ZEND:VCARD ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 9 13:53:04 2001 f19Jr3e15002 2001 11:53:05 PST Subject: Re: Spine or Spline: tim, that's more like a nickle's worth. :-) timothy --- Tim Doughty wrote:Just thought I would add my two cents after watchingthe thread on thissubject. It had me doubting that the term spline wascorrect so I went tothe dictionary for the definitions. Spine is thespinal or vertebral column;backbone. Any backbonelike part. Spline is a long,narrow, thin strip ofwood, metal, etc.; slat. One is used for thebiological and the other todescribed made sections. I will continue to use theterm Spline that wastaught to me by my mentor and referred to in manybooks on rodmaking. In myexperience spline does count and does make adifference in performance, Iwould refer you to M. Sinclair book Bamboo RodRestoration Handbook where hesays "Check the spline of rod yourself; thefactories often paid noattention at all to the spline and you can improvethe performance of therod if you take the time to spline it properly." The comment that splinedoesn't count is in my opinion one more step inproducing a so-so rod. Thisis just my opinion. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from iank@ts.co.nz Fri Feb 9 14:55:41 2001 f19KtZe18283 Subject: Re: The Spine in the Splines The correct location of the spline makes a difference in playing a fishalso. I made a cane spinning rod a few years ago , and did not locate thespline. When using this rod to play a large fish it has this unfortunatefeature of suddenly twisting sideways as the spline takes over when the rodis under pressure. I am now very careful about the alignment of the spline and the spine. Ian----- Original Message ----- Subject: The Spine in the Splines Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am I doing it? The input on thissubject has been very informative and much appreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a little back ground informationonsome of these finer points of discussion. Bamboo Beaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would have little to do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would be most significant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from bhoy551@earthlink.net Fri Feb 9 15:27:52 2001 f19LRoe20012 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:29:57 -0500 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: The Spine in the Splines So where does everyone place their guides, on the sp(l)ine, or the opposite flat? I've seen references on this list an elsewhere for both methods. Bill At 09:53 AM 2/10/01 +1300, Ian Kearney wrote:The correct location of the spline makes a difference in playing a fishalso. I made a cane spinning rod a few years ago , and did not locate thespline. When using this rod to play a large fish it has this unfortunatefeature of suddenly twisting sideways as the spline takes over when the rodis under pressure. I am now very careful about the alignment of the spline and the spine. Ian----- Original Message -----From: "Richard R. Dutcher" Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 7:13 AMSubject: The Spine in the Splines Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am I doing it? The input on thissubject has been very informative and much appreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a little back ground informationonsome of these finer points of discussion. Bamboo Beaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would have little to do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would be most significant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from teekay35@interlynx.net Fri Feb 9 15:34:47 2001 f19LYje20551 3FA7BC00A Subject: Rod Spine I was taught many years ago to place the "spine" so that the stiff sideresisted the forces exerted by the fly line drag; that is, drag on the rodcaused by the weight and friction of the line as it swung through thecurrent, and drag from the line when you pick up to make a backcast. If the rod is made very accurately and straight it will be very hard tofind a spine. For this reason, I believe, bamboo rods track very straight,and are very accurate. To test this, hold the rod grip firmly on the edgeof a table or other flat surface so that the rod sticks straight out. Thenlift the rod section an inch or two and release so that the rod tipvibrates vertically back and forth. If the rod is accurate the rod tipwill oscillate in a straight path. If the rod is "off" the tip will beginto oscillate in an oval path. This tendency to "kick" to one side ispresent when you are casting. Given the amazing adaptibility of the human arm/physique this notion isprobably irrelevent. from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Feb 9 15:46:47 2001 f19Lkke21292 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Rod Spine This is how I find the spline on my rods........danny From: "Ted Knott" Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 16:31:50 -0500 Subject: Rod Spine I was taught many years ago to place the "spine" so that the stiff sideresisted the forces exerted by the fly line drag; that is, drag on the rodcaused by the weight and friction of the line as it swung through thecurrent, and drag from the line when you pick up to make a backcast. If the rod is made very accurately and straight it will be very hard tofind a spine. For this reason, I believe, bamboo rods track very straight,and are very accurate. To test this, hold the rod grip firmly on the edgeof a table or other flat surface so that the rod sticks straight out. Thenlift the rod section an inch or two and release so that the rod tipvibrates vertically back and forth. If the rod is accurate the rod tipwill oscillate in a straight path. If the rod is "off" the tip will beginto oscillate in an oval path. This tendency to "kick" to one side ispresent when you are casting. Given the amazing adaptibility of the human arm/physique this notion isprobably irrelevent. from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Feb 9 16:03:43 2001 f19M3ge21983 Subject: Re: The Spine in the Splines You will find if the Spine is off, say 90*, while a load like playing a fish,the rod will want to twist in you hand to the soft side of the rod. Incasting, the line will want to cast off center. Harry mentioned something theother day about checking the spine on a table. If you lay a blank flat on atable with about 2/3 of the tip section off the end and bend the tip andrelease it.If the tip is not on the spine it will oscillate in an oval. The closer to thespine the narrower the oval. When on the spine it should just vibrate up anddown in a straight plane.Doing this will give you an idea of what your line will be doing when youcast a rod that does not have the guides on one or the other side of thespine. (soft or stiff)I do know books call it a spline and it may be, but to me it is the spine I amlooking for. I have made three G------- rods with the guides on the outsidebend, did not like them at all. Made over 100 with the guides on the inside ofthe bend. I find that the guides on the inside seem to cast best for me. Thetradition I have heard is: for power put the guides on the stiff side, foraccuracy put the guides on the soft side. I go with the soft side except forCasting and Saltwater rods. Yes, there can be more than one spine but onewillalways be pronounced . That is the one I use.I have had two bamboo blanks that it was almost impossible to find a spine.Can't tell you why, don't know. I make them all the same way. Now to crawlback into my hole.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am I doing it? The input on thissubject has been very informative and much appreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a little back ground informationonsome of these finer points of discussion. Bamboo Beaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would have little to do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would be most significant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from dnorl@qwest.net Fri Feb 9 18:47:25 2001 f1A0lOe27262 (63.228.47.78) " Randall Gregory" Subject: Re: My little gripe Harry,Me too!Dave-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Harry I don't even know what that means. Am I doing it? Peter----- Original Message -----From: "Randall Gregory" Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:46 PMSubject: Re: My little gripe How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not. Iwon'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to know sothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods andstuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:35 PMSubject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from Mark_Dyba@hotmail.com Fri Feb 9 19:35:27 2001 f1A1ZQe28409 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:35:15 -0800 Subject: rod binder =_NextPart_000_001E_01C092CF.7760EBE0" FILETIME=[B7CC3E00:01C09301] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C092CF.7760EBE0 new to rod construction. I need to know what is the best tyoe of binder =to use for rod construction. Mark ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C092CF.7760EBE0 new to rod construction. I need to know= best tyoe of binder to use for rod construction. =Mark ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C092CF.7760EBE0-- from harms1@pa.net Fri Feb 9 19:44:31 2001 f1A1iUe28769 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 20:44:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Banty Rods Then again, it's possible the proper word all along ought to have been"bantum." There's always that, you know? cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Banty Rods Well, Dick,Banty rods is one of those terms like spline/spine. ;-) It is usedwithmultiple intentions. For instance, a Payne Banty rod was a 4'4" rod usedbysome with great delight. A banty rod made from the mid and tip of a cheapGIimport is probably going to be a dog.Maybe we should differentiate by using Banty and banty.... Harry "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: I have been under the impression that "banty rod" is a term appliedto asmall rod that was made from a larger rod. For example, using the tipandmid-section of a 9' rod to make a 6' rod. Am I fishing or lawn castingonthis one? Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Steven A. Weiss Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 9:07 PMSubject: Re: Banty Rods I don't know if all would agree that the Paul Young Midge is a banty,butIsure have liked the ones I've made. They are very sensitive, cast wellatshort range, and have the guts for longer casts when needed.distanceSteve --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Feb 9 19:58:29 2001 f1A1wSe29211 Subject: Spine spline After I posted my message I got several off listmessages as to why I place my guides on the insideof the curve. Rather than answer them separatelyI will post my reply.I may be all wet but this is my way of thinking.Think of your rod as a bow. With the guides on thesoft ( inside) side when raising the rod to pickup line off the water the line puts load on therod. It will bend and load the rod on the softside, (inside bend) more than it would on thestiff side. As the rod comes up and the line loadsthe rod on the back cast it has resistance fromthe stiff side. It will want come back to neutral.Being that the rod is loaded on the stiff sidenow, it will want to straighten out fast and willthrow the line out with higher speed. Being thatit has to work against itself in the oppositedirection it will not bend as far forward as itdoes back thus keeps from throwing the line down.It will tend to stop quicker and throw the linestraight out instead of down. In fighting thefish, The rod can be raised higher and the fish isfighting the soft side, this is easier on thetippet and more pressure can be put on the tippetwithout it breaking due to working on the softside.What happens when you have no spine, darned if Iknow.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from harms1@pa.net Fri Feb 9 20:04:19 2001 f1A24Ie29472 Fri, 9 Feb 2001 21:04:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Spine or Spline: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B4_01C092DB.AC7F7060 "Taking the time to 'spline' it properly" sounds as if we have just =converted a noun into a new verb for the English lexicon. Considering =the arbitrariness of that move, I shouldn't think Sinclair was much of =an expert on the distinction of spline/spine. But more to the point, I would agree that if you have much of a =detectable spline/spine, you have built a so-so rod. I do not believe =that a truly well- built cane rod will have enough of a "spline" to have =any practical effect on its accuracy. As to the "accuracy factor" =itself, there are way, way too many variables in one's casting style =anyway to know how much inaccuracy is attributable only to the rod =(assuming the well-built rod). Let the email fly, guys! cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 1:28 PMSubject: Spine or Spline: Just thought I would add my two cents after watching the thread on =this subject. It had me doubting that the term spline was correct so I =went to the dictionary for the definitions. Spine is the spinal or =vertebral column; backbone. Any backbonelike part. Spline is a long, =narrow, thin strip of wood, metal, etc.; slat. One is used for the =biological and the other to described made sections. I will continue to =use the term Spline that was taught to me by my mentor and referred to =in many books on rodmaking. In my experience spline does count and does =make a difference in performance, I would refer you to M. Sinclair book =Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook where he says "Check the spline of rod =yourself; the factories often paid no attention at all to the spline and =you can improve the performance of the rod if you take the time to =spline it properly." The comment that spline doesn't count is in my =opinion one more step in producing a so-so rod. This is just my opinion. ======== Upstream Always, Tim Doughty Rodmaker ------=_NextPart_000_00B4_01C092DB.AC7F7060 Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in =1.25in; mso- header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; =mso-paper-source: 0; }P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}P.MsoEnvelopeAddress {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 2in; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: =Arial; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-element: frame; mso-element-frame-width: 5.5in; =mso- element-frame-height: 99.0pt; mso-element-frame-hspace: 9.0pt; =mso- element-wrap: auto; mso-element-anchor-horizontal: page; =mso-element- left: center; mso-element-top: bottom; mso-height-rule: =exactly; mso-bidi- font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New =Roman"}LI.MsoEnvelopeAddress {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 2in; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: =Arial; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-element: frame; mso- element-frame-width: 5.5in; =mso-element-frame-height: 99.0pt; mso- element-frame-hspace: 9.0pt; =mso-element-wrap: auto; mso-element- anchor-horizontal: page; =mso-element-left: center; mso-element-top: bottom; mso-height-rule: =exactly; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font- family: "Times New =Roman"}DIV.MsoEnvelopeAddress {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 2in; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: =Arial; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-element: frame; mso-element-frame-width: 5.5in; =mso-element-frame-height: 99.0pt; mso-element-frame-hspace: 9.0pt; =mso-element-wrap: auto; mso- element-anchor-horizontal: page; =mso-element-left: center; mso-element- top: bottom; mso-height-rule: =exactly; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi- font-family: "Times New =Roman"}P.MsoEnvelopeReturn {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Arial;=mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-bidi-font- family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoEnvelopeReturn {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Arial;=mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoEnvelopeReturn {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Arial;=mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New =Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"}P.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font- family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}SPAN.EmailStyle17 {COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso- style-type: =personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ascii-font- family: =Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial}DIV.Section1 {page: Section1} "Taking the timeto = that move, I shouldn't think Sinclair was much of an = the distinction of spline/spine. But more to the point, Iwould = that if you have much of a detectable spline/spine, you have built a = "accuracy factor" itself, there are way, = inaccuracy is attributable only tothe = (assuming the well-built rod). guys! cheers, =Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here = Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ ----- Original Message ----- Tim Doughty Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001= PMSubject: Spine or Spline: Just = add my two cents after watching the thread on this subject. It had me = backbonelike part. Spline is a long, narrow, thin strip of wood, = slat. One is used for the biological and the other to described made = I will continue to use the term Spline that was taught to me by my = referred to in many books on rodmaking. In my experience spline does = does make a difference in performance, I would refer you to M. = Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook where he says "Check the spline of rod = yourself; the factories often paid no attention at all to the spline = can improve the performance of the rod if you take the time to spline = comment = spline doesn't count is in my opinion one more step in producing a = This is just my opinion. from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Fri Feb 9 20:43:08 2001 (may be forged)) f1A2h8e04033 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Spine John -- What you say makes sense as usual. Also, if I'm in my workshop alone whowill know what I really do down there..... Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Spine Barry;It's another one of the fetishes started by Everett Garrison, few if anyof the production companies(including Payne, Leonard and Dickerson, allof whom used strips from 2 culms in a rod) did this. think about it, ifyou are working alone in your basement, making rods one at a time,doesn't it keep the clutter down to just deal with one culm at a time?John "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Art -- This isn't exactly the issue you raised, but your comment reminds me....Inever have understood the fetish about making a rod all from the sameculm.This could not have anything to do with consistency of the bamboo.Oppositesides of the same culm are different in many cases, while matching ispossible when you mix strips from different culms, if matching mattersthatmuch. It can't be a matter of quality in any practical sense, since theability to choose the best strips from multiple culms is at least as goodaway to guarantee quality of the material itself. I can only think thatthisis one of those arbitrary and challenging approaches that gives peoplepleasure, rather than a matter of craftsmanship or quality in any othersense. Not that I'm against it for that reason. After all, fishing with bamboo oreven plastic poles is an arbitrary and challenging way to get a trout.(Plastic explosives work much better if you don't use too much.) So ifit'smore fun to make a rod this way, go for it and enjoy it. But when thiskindof thing gets cloaked in the aura of virtuous craftsmanship (not that yousaid this, Art, but it's not uncommon), as if anyone doing otherwise is asomewhat lower form of life, I instinctively look upwind to locate thestockyards I'm smelling. Sorry, I think I got a bit carried away. But no, not everyone does this. Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:24 PM Subject: Re: Spine Stuart,I split my tip STRIPS (not splines) from the same double-pieces (2no.1's, 2 no. 2's etc.) and then the tips are exactly the same. I thought alldid that....Art At 08:33 AM 02/08/2001 +0100, stuart moultrie wrote:Hi Bob, Do you match your tips? If so, how does one do this and follow eachsectionsindividual spine? How can I stagger nodes in a spiral from butt totipand stillfollow the spine? Should we view each section as totally independent ofeachother? When yes then there can be no real point in keeping split stripsin theorder that they come from the culm in. Is there anything to say that the sections then should not come from different culms? Thanks Stuart Bob Nunley wrote: I've built a lot of rods over the last decade + of rodmaking and I'veonlyhad a handful of rods that you could NOT find a spline on.Inescapable factof life in rodmaking, whether it be cane or composite. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Troutgetter@aol.com ; flyfish@defnet.com ;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:22 PMSubject: Re: Spline In a message dated 2/7/2001 8:07:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,nobler@satx.rr.com writes: certainculm, and glued, etc., isn't there always one side where it flexesquicker?This says to me, that each blank will have its own spline ???GMA >>I think soMike from teekay35@interlynx.net Fri Feb 9 21:08:34 2001 f1A38Xe04541 Subject: Re: Spine One of the fifteen or more "Waara Taper" rods that will be at this year'sGrand Gathering is a 3 piece version made from the left over strips from 10or more culms. The only consideration given to node and strip position wasto insure no two nodes were adjacent to each other. ----------From: Kling, Barry W. Cc: Rodmakers Subject: RE: SpineDate: Friday, February 09, 2001 9:42 PM John -- What you say makes sense as usual. Also, if I'm in my workshop alone whowill know what I really do down there..... Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 7:52 PM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Spine Barry;It's another one of the fetishes started by Everett Garrison, few if anyof the production companies(including Payne, Leonard and Dickerson, allof whom used strips from 2 culms in a rod) did this. think about it, ifyou are working alone in your basement, making rods one at a time,doesn't it keep the clutter down to just deal with one culm at a time?John "Kling, Barry W." wrote: Art -- This isn't exactly the issue you raised, but your comment remindsme....Inever have understood the fetish about making a rod all from the sameculm.This could not have anything to do with consistency of the bamboo.Oppositesides of the same culm are different in many cases, while matching ispossible when you mix strips from different culms, if matching mattersthatmuch. It can't be a matter of quality in any practical sense, since theability to choose the best strips from multiple culms is at least asgoodaway to guarantee quality of the material itself. I can only think thatthisis one of those arbitrary and challenging approaches that gives peoplepleasure, rather than a matter of craftsmanship or quality in any othersense. Not that I'm against it for that reason. After all, fishing with bamboooreven plastic poles is an arbitrary and challenging way to get a trout.(Plastic explosives work much better if you don't use too much.) So ifit'smore fun to make a rod this way, go for it and enjoy it. But when thiskindof thing gets cloaked in the aura of virtuous craftsmanship (not thatyousaid this, Art, but it's not uncommon), as if anyone doing otherwise isasomewhat lower form of life, I instinctively look upwind to locate thestockyards I'm smelling. Sorry, I think I got a bit carried away. But no, not everyone doesthis. Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:24 PM Subject: Re: Spine Stuart,I split my tip STRIPS (not splines) from the same double-pieces(2no.1's, 2 no. 2's etc.) and then the tips are exactly the same. I thoughtalldid that....Art At 08:33 AM 02/08/2001 +0100, stuart moultrie wrote:Hi Bob, Do you match your tips? If so, how does one do this and follow eachsectionsindividual spine? How can I stagger nodes in a spiral from butt totipand stillfollow the spine? Should we view each section as totally independentofeachother? When yes then there can be no real point in keeping splitstripsin theorder that they come from the culm in. Is there anything to say thatthe sections then should not come from different culms? Thanks Stuart Bob Nunley wrote: I've built a lot of rods over the last decade + of rodmaking andI'veonlyhad a handful of rods that you could NOT find a spline on.Inescapable factof life in rodmaking, whether it be cane or composite. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Troutgetter@aol.com ; flyfish@defnet.com ;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:22 PMSubject: Re: Spline In a message dated 2/7/2001 8:07:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,nobler@satx.rr.com writes: certainculm, and glued, etc., isn't there always one side where it flexesquicker?This says to me, that each blank will have its own spline ???GMA >>I think soMike from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 9 22:10:24 2001 f1A4ANe05457 2001 20:10:25 PST Subject: Re: The Spine in the Splines i do it opposite of garrison most of the time. timothy --- Bill Hoy wrote:So where does everyone place their guides, on thesp(l)ine, or the opposite flat? I've seen references on this list an elsewhere Bill At 09:53 AM 2/10/01 +1300, Ian Kearney wrote:The correct location of the spline makes adifference in playing a fishalso. I made a cane spinning rod a few years ago ,and did not locate thespline. When using this rod to play a large fish ithas this unfortunatefeature of suddenly twisting sideways as the splinetakes over when the rodis under pressure. I am now very careful about the alignment of thespline and the spine. Ian----- Original Message -----From: "Richard R. Dutcher" Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 7:13 AMSubject: The Spine in the Splines Okay, Now that I know how to do it, why I am Idoing it? The input on thissubject has been very informative and muchappreciated but, I am still aninexperienced "Bamboo Beaver" and need a littleback ground information onsome of these finer points of discussion. BambooBeaver, I think I'll usethis one. I am assuming that the spine would havelittle to do with the strengthof a rod i.e., playing a fish. But, would bemost significant in castingcharacteristics. Anyone care to comment? Regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from cwgray@lightcom.net Sat Feb 10 01:44:43 2001 f1A7ige07634 Subject: Value on Goodwin Granger? List folks, need your help, Recently a Goodwin Granger Denver Special came available locally. It is a 9 ft 3/2 but the mid and one tip are short. The mid is 4 in short and the broken tip is 8 in short. The rod has been revarnished at some point, probabaly when one or other of the broken sections was repaired. It has what looks to be the original bag and tube (label missing). It was purchased new by a relative of the seller, the original owner passed away a couple of years ago at 106. The guides and ferrells look to be OK, most of the windings are also, although I'm not sure if it was rewrapped when revarnished. The grip is in good shape and likely cleaned also. There is also the reel with it, a Pfluger "Gem" No. 2095. In checking some of the classic sites prices for this rod seem to run $300 - $400 but for what I suspect are in much better condition than this one. Near as I could find the reel would run $50 +/-. It is a large reel, black, in fair condition. Also any information on line size would be helpful. I figure if I bought it it would be a wall hanger that still got in some fishing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks CW GrayC W Graycwgray@lightcom.net from EM11EM22@aol.com Sat Feb 10 03:10:17 2001 f1A9AHe08426 Subject: spines Dear List:This is what I have gleaned from building graphite and glass rods for 16 years, and working for "the old" Scott Powr-Ply in Berkeley.If you hold the tip or butt at a 45 degree angle, with the tip (of the tip or butt) in the left hand, and the butt (of the tip or butt) on a table.Then with the right hand, press down in the middle of the part, and roll the part back and forth. You will feel the "kick" or "spine," as it rolls back and forth.(That is how we flex tested parts for failure, bend it into a "U", and find the spine.)Sometimes they would break with an explosive SNAP!Because graphite "overlaps" itself, there will be a "kick," sometimes 2 (a hard and soft kick).If you stand the part on end (vertical), and push straight down on the tip, the part will default to a bend. (It will be the natural bend of the rod under a load. And that bend will place the "spine/kick" on either side of the direction of the bend. It's like wearing a knee brace, your knee will only bend naturally from front to back.When the guides are placed on the opposite side from the strongest "kick", then the most stored power is lifting the line from the water for the back cast. (fly rods)If the guides are placed on the same side as the "kick", then the most stored power is used in the forward cast. (casting and spinning rods)Either way, as the rod deforms and bends (casting or fighting a fish), the natural path for the rod is to twist (at least to some degree) to the path of least resistance (I.E. like the knee brace example).I think there are benefits from any of the choices.If bamboo exhibits the same "kick" tendencies, wouldn't the results be the same as graphite? (Even though they are dissimilar materials.............)Regards to the list and thanks for a great place to visit and learn.................Edward Miller (on the west coast) from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Feb 10 04:48:09 2001 f1AAm7e09094 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Value on Goodwin Granger? CW, $300 to $400 is for a complete 9' Granger with 2 tips. All sectionsequal length and in EX. cond. What you have there is a parts rod. Withthe bag and tube $100. The reel $30-$50 more. Marty List folks, need your help, Recently a Goodwin Granger Denver Special came available locally.It is a 9 ft 3/2 but the mid and one tip are short. The mid is 4 inshort and the broken tip is 8 in short. The rod has been revarnishedat some point, probabaly when one or other of the broken sectionswas repaired. It has what looks to be the original bag and tube(label missing). It was purchased new by a relative of the seller, theoriginal owner passed away a couple of years ago at 106. Theguides and ferrells look to be OK, most of the windings are also,although I'm not sure if it was rewrapped when revarnished. Thegrip is in good shape and likely cleaned also. There is also the reelwith it, a Pfluger "Gem" No. 2095. In checking some of the classic sites prices for this rod seem to run$300 - $400 but for what I suspect are in much better condition thanthis one. Near as I could find the reel would run $50 +/-. It is alarge reel, black, in fair condition. Also any information on line size would be helpful. I figure if I bought it it would be a wall hanger that still got in somefishing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks CW GrayC W Graycwgray@lightcom.net from Lazybee45@aol.com Sat Feb 10 07:12:35 2001 f1ADCYe10030 Subject: planing form I am going to my friend Bob's house today to cut my planing form to size, making identical pieces (I hope!) so NOW I have a question about the 60degree bevel. It APPEARS ( from CAne Rodmakers FAQ website) that the cut is .030 deep all the way along the tip side and .090 all along the Butt side. TRUE or FALSE? If true We can cut the bevel on his joiner or his small router table (as opposed to his LARGE router table, his shop is really equipped! He makes Jewelry for a living, VERY fine furinature for a hobby!) IS POSSIBLE??thanksmark from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sat Feb 10 07:16:25 2001 f1ADGOe10225 +0100 Subject: just checking This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0936D.263CA1C0 just to see if I was kicked off - no mail all day.... regards, carsten ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0936D.263CA1C0 just to see if I was kicked off - no = day.... regards, carsten ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C0936D.263CA1C0-- from dpeaston@wzrd.com Sat Feb 10 09:51:02 2001 f1AFp1e13346 Subject: Re: planing form Mark, You need to put a taper into the grove for a final planing form. This isexplained very well on Thomas Penrose'd site at:http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/5262/tonkin.htm Also See Bruce Conner's FAQ on building forms with wood athttp://www.cybercom.net/%7Ebconner/rodNframes.html Don't do anything until you have looked at these sources! See also WaynesBook or several articles in the "Best of the Planing Form." Good Luck-Doug At 08:12 AM 2/10/01 EST, Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:I am going to my friend Bob's house today to cut my planing form to size, making identical pieces (I hope!) so NOW I have a question about the60degree bevel. It APPEARS ( from CAne Rodmakers FAQ website) that the cut is.030 deep all the way along the tip side and .090 all along the Butt side. TRUE or FALSE? If true We can cut the bevel on his joiner or his small router table (as opposed to his LARGE router table, his shop is really equipped!He makes Jewelry for a living, VERY fine furinature for a hobby!) ISPOSSIBLE??thanksmark Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from caneman@clnk.com Sat Feb 10 09:52:15 2001 f1AFqEe13495 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: planing form Mark... better read a somewhere else... there is a site out there somewhere,and it may be on Thomas Penroses' site that deals with cutting the groove indetail (not sure whose site, but it's one of the ones on my Link Page). Butthe groove is definitely not a straight cut down both sides. it is tapered.Basically if your form is completely closed you would be able to plane asmall tapered strip.Now, do NOT use these numbers, because I'm just doing this off the topof my head, but you need a slope on you tapered groove of something like.0015 per inch, so on a 60 inch form, the groove (total, not one side) onthe tip side of your form, would start at .030 on the tip end and end up at.090 on the butt end. on your butt side it would start at .090 and end at.180" Like I said, I'm not sure if that's the slope that is of standarduse, but that slope wouuld definitely work. That would make it possible foryou to make rods with tip sections as fine as .060 and butt sections asheavy as you wish... Check around and see if you can find the proper slope Later, and good luck,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: planing form I am going to my friend Bob's house today to cut my planing form to size,making identical pieces (I hope!) so NOW I have a question about the60degreebevel. It APPEARS ( from CAne Rodmakers FAQ website) that the cut is.030deep all the way along the tip side and .090 all along the Butt side. TRUEor FALSE? If true We can cut the bevel on his joiner or his small routertable (as opposed to his LARGE router table, his shop is really equipped!Hemakes Jewelry for a living, VERY fine furinature for a hobby!) ISPOSSIBLE??thanksmark from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 10 10:43:14 2001 f1AGhDe14320 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Possible virus? Organization: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0934E.B6C882A0 Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snow =white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have =received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. =Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my =system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe =I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0934E.B6C882A0 Hello folks, I keep getting a message = attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when = messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted = completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active with = AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0934E.B6C882A0-- from lblove@omniglobal.net Sat Feb 10 10:43:43 2001 f1AGhhe14335 " Randall Gregory" Subject: RE: My little gripe what he is saying is that instead of basic asc ii text some people are using html(hyper text markup language)to send their email in the format of web pages. if you are using outlook hit the format button on thetop of the editing screen when you write an email,then hit the options button, it will either be "plain text", "html", "enriched text"choose the plain text if using outlook expresshit the tools button on the top of the pagethen options, then the send tab, then selectplain text if using netscape composer, hit edit, then preferences,then the plus sign next to mail/news groups, then the formatting option, then choose the plain text editor use the plain text, for two reasonsone, just about everything can read asc iisecond, reduces the risk of passing a worm/virusto the list. hope this helps Brad -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Harry,Me too!Dave-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Harry I don't even know what that means. Am I doing it? Peter----- Original Message -----From: "Randall Gregory" Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:46 PMSubject: Re: My little gripe How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not. Iwon'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to know sothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods andstuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:35 PMSubject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from caneman@clnk.com Sat Feb 10 10:48:49 2001 f1AGmne14723 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Possible virus? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01C0934E.DFFFF680 Randall,I have gotten it several times to, and I "think" it is a virus. The =email address it comes from is a dummy address that you can't mail back =to, and I know there is a virus out there called SnowWhite, so I do as =you did, delete it from inbox, then delete it from deleted files. I =don't open any attachment unless I'm expecting one from somebody. Bob -----Original Message-----From: Randall Gregory Date: Saturday, February 10, 2001 10:44 AMSubject: Possible virus? Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- =snow white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have =received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. =Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my =system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe =I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01C0934E.DFFFF680 Randall, it = comes from is a dummy address that you can't mail back to, and I know = virus out there called SnowWhite, so I do as you did, delete it from = expecting one from somebody. Bob -----Original = rodmakers list serv <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Saturday, February 10, 2001 10:44 AMSubject:Possible = virus?Hello folks, I keep getting a = has an attachment with it. I have received it several times lately = checking messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus = deleted it completely from my system each time. My virus protection = active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. = Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01C0934E.DFFFF680-- from rp43640@online-club.de Sat Feb 10 11:03:46 2001 f1AH3je15090 sender ) rodmakers list serv Subject: Re: Possible virus? Randall my activated Norton Anitvirus claims it is a virus, so do not open the mail. Christian 10-02-2001 10:46:24, "Randall Gregory" wrote: Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:46:24 -0600 Organization:Subject: Possible virus?Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snowwhite and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. Doesanyoneknow if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system eachtime. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm justpanicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sat Feb 10 11:12:12 2001 f1AHCBe15364 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 12:11:14 -0500 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Possible virus? Hi Randall:I got a warning about this a month ago. It is a virus. About two days later, I received it for the first time. Luckily, I knew enough to delete it and run the virus check, etc... I have received it several times since. I guess someone on the list has it or someone is out to get us.Bob At 10:46 AM 2/10/2001 -0600, Randall Gregory wrote:Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snow white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from rp43640@online-club.de Sat Feb 10 11:13:09 2001 f1AHD8e15491 sender ) Subject: California Does anybody have any suggestion for fishing in california this comingsummer?We will be most likely in state parks but if time allows it would be interestingto knowwhat would be worthwhile to look (fish).Thank you. Christian from flytyr@southshore.com Sat Feb 10 11:37:42 2001 f1AHbfe16179 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:39:30 -0600 Subject: Re: Possible virus? --------------3337BC94FEF7A73A0E4A6652 It ia a virus and I get them in various formsseveral times a day also from Ha Ha. DON'T openit.Tony FlyTyr@southshore,com Randall Gregory wrote: Hello folks, I keep getting a message from (Hahaha ---Entitled --- snow white and the sevendwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I havereceived it several times lately when checkingmessages from the list. Does anyone know if itis a virus etc. I deleted it completely from mysystem each time. My virus protection is activewith no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanksin advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. --------------3337BC94FEF7A73A0E4A6652 It ia a virus and I get them in various forms several times a day also from Ha Ha. DON'T open it. Randall Gregory wrote: Hellofolks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snow whiteand the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have received itseveral times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyoneknow if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system eachtime. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky.Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. --------------3337BC94FEF7A73A0E4A6652-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Feb 10 12:06:15 2001 f1AI6Ee16691 Subject: Wiring question Folks,I've shared before that I am blissfully ignorant when itcomes to anything electric, so you'll understand when I ask I wired a little 1rpm motor this morning in hopes ofusing it with a large spool and a dip tank. Everythingseemed to work great. There's one problem though: When Iplug it in, it turns clockwise. Unplug it. Plug it inagain. Turns Counter clock wise. Not every time, but about75% of the time. What did I do wrong? Thanks in advance,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 10 12:23:05 2001 f1AIN5e17166 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: My little gripe Organization: Makes sense to me. Thanks, Randall G. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: My little gripe well first the html can carry scripts which can do some harm.all the "source code"/ tags are hidden from the user so you reallydont know what your getting, its pretty on the outside and no tellingwhat is on the inside. second the "source code" is what is sent and all the words of themessage is enclosed in tags and the old email viewers freak out on thetags, they just dont understand them This is sample of what the tags look likethe old programs just dont know what to doso the machines lock up or just dont work well also using html can really suck up the bandwidth with all theadded tags that are needed to generate the page. my wife wason a mailing list that one of the ladies sent a picture ofa castle as background and theme music on every posting.it took about 10 minutes to down load each of her posts. also remember that some people in the world are still paying web access so it is just kinda nice not to plug up their serverswith unwanted tags. hope this shed some light on the subject Brad -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 10:56 AM Subject: Re: My little gripe Bradley, Just a curiosity, but how and what does sending in html do? Inwhatway does it create problems? I figure I might as well learn from what Ifix.Thanks Again, Randall R. Gregory ----- Original Message -----From: Bradley Love RandallGregory Cc: 'RODMAKERS' Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 10:39 AMSubject: RE: My little gripe what he is saying is that instead of basic asc ii textsome people are using html(hyper text markup language)to send their email in the format of web pages. if you are using outlook hit the format button on thetop of the editing screen when you write an email,then hit the options button, itwill either be "plain text", "html", "enriched text"choose the plain text if using outlook expresshit the tools button on the top of the pagethen options, then the send tab, then selectplain text if using netscape composer, hit edit, then preferences,then the plus sign next to mail/news groups, thenthe formatting option, then choose the plain text editor use the plain text, for two reasonsone, just about everything can read asc iisecond, reduces the risk of passing a worm/virusto the list. hope this helpsBrad -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 6:45 PM Cc: 'RODMAKERS'Subject: Re: My little gripe Harry,Me too!Dave-----Original Message-----From: petermckean Cc: 'RODMAKERS' Date: Friday, February 09, 2001 5:21 AMSubject: Re: My little gripe Harry I don't even know what that means. Am I doing it? Peter----- Original Message -----From: "Randall Gregory" Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 4:46 PMSubject: Re: My little gripe How do you turn it off? I am not sure if mine is the problem or not.Iwon'tbe offended if someone were to tell me that I am. I just need to knowsothat I can fix it. Sorry, I'm not really into puters, just rods andstuff.Thanks, Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 10:35 PMSubject: My little gripe Friends,I don't gripe too much, and I hope you will hear meout. My computer is a little like me, old and fat andslow. When we use html coding in our emails, it oftencauses problems for other list members. In fact, it crashesmy computer regularly enought to be a problem.I'm not computer savvy enough to tell you how to turn itoff, but some of the members of this list are. I know manyof you, Bob Nunley for example, turn html off for messagesto the list. And I appreciate it. Some of the rest of usought to consider doing the same.Gripe mode off,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 10 13:04:32 2001 f1AJ4Ve18123 Subject: Re: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09305.711205E0 HarryI don't think your wiring is wrong .It is probably the type of motor.I have a small motor I use for wrapping and it does the same thing. I =could be wrong here,I'm no electrician. Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires to connect to a two prong plug. I've =switched them around and it makes no difference.When I switch it on one time it goes one direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes in the opposite. Pretty hard to getit wrong with only two wires. 50/50 chance. So I'm convincedit is the type of motor. If anybody out there knows what were doing =wrong, I'm all ears.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09305.711205E0 HarryI don't think your wiring is wrong =.It is probably the type of =motor.I have a small motor I use for wrapping= the same thing. I could be wrong here,I'm no electrician. =Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires to = difference. direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes in the = hard to getit wrong with only two wires. 50/50 = convincedit is the type of motor. If anybody out = what were doing wrong, I'm all ears.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09305.711205E0-- from martinj@aa.net Sat Feb 10 13:18:51 2001 f1AJIpe18436 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:18:50 -0800X-Intended- For:rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09353.42967860 Just try rotating it in the right direction (by hand) when you start itup... Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 11:02 PM Subject: Re: Wiring Question HarryI don't think your wiring is wrong .It is probably the type of motor.I have a small motor I use for wrapping and it does the same thing. Icould be wrong here,I'm no electrician. Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires to connect to a two prong plug. I'veswitched them around and it makes no difference.When I switch it on one time it goes one direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes in the opposite. Pretty hard to getit wrong with only two wires. 50/50 chance. So I'm convincedit is the type of motor. If anybody out there knows what were doing wrong,I'm all ears.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09353.42967860 up... Martin= MillerSent: Friday, February 09, 2001 11:02 = QuestionHarryI don't think your wiring is wrong =.It is probably the type of =motor.I have a small motor I use for = Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires to = difference. direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes in the = hard to getit wrong with only two wires. 50/50 = I'm convincedit is the type of motor. If anybody = knows what were doing wrong, I'm all ears.Tony =Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09353.42967860-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Sat Feb 10 13:25:01 2001 f1AJP1e18744 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:24:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Wiring Question And then there were three. My wrapping motor does the same thing. Isimple reach out and stop the motor with my hand and it switches directions.If I un- plug the motor sometimes it will not change direction so, stallingit is a better choice for me. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Tony Miller Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 11:01 PMSubject: Re: Wiring Question HarryI don't think your wiring is wrong .It is probably the type of motor.I have a small motor I use for wrapping and it does the same thing. Icould be wrong here,I'm no electrician. Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires to connect to a two prong plug. I'veswitched them around and it makes no difference.When I switch it on one time it goes one direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes in the opposite. Pretty hard to getit wrong with only two wires. 50/50 chance. So I'm convincedit is the type of motor. If anybody out there knows what were doing wrong,I'm all ears.Tony Miller from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat Feb 10 13:34:35 2001 f1AJYYe19147 Subject: Re: Possible virus? Does anyone know how to get rid of a virus in a Mac? I seem to have gotten one from the list and I didn't think Mac was suseptable to this.Bret from homessold@email.msn.com Sat Feb 10 13:34:52 2001 f1AJYpe19234 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 11:34:47 -0800 Subject: Re: Wiring question FILETIME=[87371520:01C09398] Harry,Most motors have a start capacitor to make the motor start in the samedirection every time. If you want to change directions take off the coverplate and change the direction terminal connection.Good luck. Don----- Original Message ----- Subject: Wiring question Folks,I've shared before that I am blissfully ignorant when itcomes to anything electric, so you'll understand when I ask I wired a little 1rpm motor this morning in hopes ofusing it with a large spool and a dip tank. Everythingseemed to work great. There's one problem though: When Iplug it in, it turns clockwise. Unplug it. Plug it inagain. Turns Counter clock wise. Not every time, but about75% of the time. What did I do wrong? Thanks in advance,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from ewp42@yahoo.com Sat Feb 10 13:40:51 2001 f1AJeoe19648 2001 11:40:52 PST Subject: Re: Possible virus? rodmakers list serv Yes, it is a virus. Delete without viewing. Eric __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from djhall@cisco.com Sat Feb 10 13:44:29 2001 f1AJiRe19832 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Wiring question Harry,I was going to wire my 1rpm motor today. I bought mine at McMaster- Carr,perhaps we have the same wiring. Mine has 4 leads coming out of it, andcame with wiring instructions (wish i had a scanner). If yours has 4 leads,let me know and i will mail you or use a draw program for the schematic ifyou want. A (starting) capacitor is wired between the CW and CCW input of themotor.Depending upon which side of this cap the 110v input is applied (via myup/down switch), determines CW or CCW rotation. The cap charging (dv/dt)must provide a initial voltage differential to one side of the motorwindings when compared to the other.Hope this helps, Dan At 12:03 PM 2/10/01 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Folks,I've shared before that I am blissfully ignorant when itcomes to anything electric, so you'll understand when I ask I wired a little 1rpm motor this morning in hopes ofusing it with a large spool and a dip tank. Everythingseemed to work great. There's one problem though: When Iplug it in, it turns clockwise. Unplug it. Plug it inagain. Turns Counter clock wise. Not every time, but about75% of the time. What did I do wrong? Thanks in advance,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from bh887@lafn.org Sat Feb 10 14:51:15 2001 f1AKpEe21221 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Possible virus? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C09360.6E216640 ANY message from HAHAHA has a virus attached. DO NOT OPEN. I got one = from this joker. Update your virus protection, your alarms should be =going off Lee Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:46 AMSubject: Possible virus? Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- =snow white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have =received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. =Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my =system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe =I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C09360.6E216640 ANY message from HAHAHA has a virus alarms should be going off Lee ----- Original Message ----- Randall= Sent: Saturday, February 10, = AMSubject: Possible virus? Hello folks, I keep getting a message = attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when = messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I = completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active = AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C09360.6E216640-- from Canerods@aol.com Sat Feb 10 15:19:55 2001 f1ALJte21994 Subject: Re: California --part1_54.fdc2573.27b70a69_boundary In a message dated 2/10/01 9:13:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, rp43640@online-club.de writes: Does anybody have any suggestion for fishing in california this coming summer?We will be most likely in state parks but if time allows it would be interesting to knowwhat would be worthwhile to look (fish).Thank you. Christian Christian, California is a 14+ hour drive north to south and that's if you are driving at near-supersonic European speeds. What part of California will you be in? In General, the further north or higher in the mountains that you are the the better the trout fishing. If you are tour driving around the state then most people drive from San Francisco to LA along the coast. The freshwater fishing along this route is very limited. If you are inland and in the Sierra Nevada mountains, then any water will be good fishing after the last spring runoff. Yosemite National Park would be my first pick of places to tell you to see and fish. The Merced River flows through the Yosemite Valley. Plus you can drive to unlimited number of other streams and lakes.You need a special fishing permit that you can purchase in the park plus a valid CA state fishing license to fish in the park system. I don't have the 2001 fishing license prices with me. But a California fishing license is about $10/day or much less per day if you buy an annual license. You should try to find a lake or stream that holds the Caliornia state fish - the Golden Trout. Besides being very beautiful, it it is also very rare and C&R is the rule of the day fishing for them. Email off list for more details. Don BurnsCanerods@aol.com --part1_54.fdc2573.27b70a69_boundary In a message dated2/10/01 9:13:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, rp43640@online-club.de writes: Does anybodyhave any suggestion for fishing in california this coming summer?We will be most likely in state parks but if time allows it would be interesting to knowwhat would be worthwhile to look (fish).Thank you. Christian Christian, California is a 14+ hour drive north to south and that's if you aredriving at near-supersonic European speeds. What part of California will you be in? In General, the further north or higher in the mountains that you arethe the better the trout fishing. If you are tour driving around the state then most people drive fromSan Francisco to LA along the coast. The freshwater fishing along thisroute is very limited. If you are inland and in the Sierra Nevada mountains, then any water willbe good fishing after the last spring runoff. Yosemite National Park would be my first pick of places to tell you tosee and fish. The Merced River flows through the Yosemite Valley. Plus youcan drive to unlimited number of other streams and lakes.You need a special fishing permit that you can purchase in the park plus a valid CA state fishing license to fish in the park system. I don't have the 2001 fishing license prices with me. But a California fishing license is about $10/day or much less per day if you buy anannual license. You should try to find a lake or stream that holds the Caliornia statefish - the Golden Trout. Besides being very beautiful, it it is also very rare andC&R is the rule of the day fishing for them. Email off list for more details. Don BurnsCanerods@aol.com --part1_54.fdc2573.27b70a69_boundary-- from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 10 15:20:58 2001 f1ALKwe22158 Subject: Re: Possible virus? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0266_01C09374.FBDFA000 I first got this several days ago. The address listed is a dummy that =the virus uses on all replicant notes it sends out. Someone has gotten =infected and their computer is spitting the replicants out. Don't open = M-D Randall,I have gotten it several times to, and I "think" it is a virus. =The email address it comes from is a dummy address that you can't mail =back to, and I know there is a virus out there called SnowWhite, so I do =as you did, delete it from inbox, then delete it from deleted files. I =don't open any attachment unless I'm expecting one from somebody. Bob From: Randall Gregory Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- =snow white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have =received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. =Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my =system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe =I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0266_01C09374.FBDFA000 I first got this several= The address listed is a dummy that the virus uses on all replicant notes = sends out. Someone has gotten infected and their computer is spitting = M-D Bob =Nunley Randall, gotten = is a dummy address that you can't mail back to, and I know there is a = out there called SnowWhite, so I do as you did, delete it from inbox, = expecting one from somebody. Bob Hello folks, I keep getting a = has an attachment with it. I have received it several times lately = checking messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus = deleted it completely from my system each time. My virus protection = active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. = Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0266_01C09374.FBDFA000-- from dickay@alltel.net Sat Feb 10 16:14:38 2001 f1AMEce23182 srv.alltel.net Sat, 10 Feb 2001 16:14:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Wiring question Harry, If your motor has only two wires, you can't do any wiring wrong.It's just which part of the sine wave that the current is in when you turnit on that determines which way it goes. Remember, household currentreverses itself 60 times a second (60 cycle) if you turn it on in thereverse cycle it will go backwards unless the motor is built with specialwindings to make it start a certain direction. I'd have to see your motorto detemine what it has. Some motors are electrically reversable. That iswhat Don is talking about. I don't beleive that your 1 RPM motor is. Do asdick Dutcher does and stop it by hand and it should reverse.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Wiring question Harry,I was going to wire my 1rpm motor today. I bought mine at McMaster- Carr,perhaps we have the same wiring. Mine has 4 leads coming out of it, andcame with wiring instructions (wish i had a scanner). If yours has 4leads,let me know and i will mail you or use a draw program for the schematic ifyou want.A (starting) capacitor is wired between the CW and CCW input of themotor.Depending upon which side of this cap the 110v input is applied (via myup/down switch), determines CW or CCW rotation. The cap charging(dv/dt)must provide a initial voltage differential to one side of the motorwindings when compared to the other.Hope this helps, Dan At 12:03 PM 2/10/01 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Folks,I've shared before that I am blissfully ignorant when itcomes to anything electric, so you'll understand when I ask I wired a little 1rpm motor this morning in hopes ofusing it with a large spool and a dip tank. Everythingseemed to work great. There's one problem though: When Iplug it in, it turns clockwise. Unplug it. Plug it inagain. Turns Counter clock wise. Not every time, but about75% of the time. What did I do wrong? Thanks in advance,Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from dutcher@email.msn.com Sat Feb 10 16:22:26 2001 f1AMMQe23540 Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:22:22 -0800 Subject: Wiring question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0936C.EC9DF5E0 Absolutely incredible! Thought I would make a good fishing pole. So, Igot an education in Botany focusing on the cellular structure of bamboo. Ofcourse those little cells make up fibers which require education instructural engineering and analysis. Oh yes, becoming a machinist and woodworker to be able to make rod components and more tools. Being a chemistsoI make the right choices of glue and finish. And now, a $10.00 electricmotor requires electrical theory. I LOVE THIS! Keep it coming, guys. My best regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Dan Hall Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 11:41 AMSubject: Re: Wiring question ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0936C.EC9DF5E0 name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010210T222240ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0936C.EC9DF5E0-- from HomeyDKlown@att.net Sat Feb 10 17:14:15 2001 f1ANEFe24525 ;Sat, 10 Feb 2001 23:14:11 +0000 Subject: Re: Wiring question I think the main prerequisite in this whole 'thing' is to be openminded. That includes creativity and I see lots of that here. Ain't itgreat??! Dennis Richard R. Dutcher wrote: Absolutely incredible! Thought I would make a good fishing pole. So, Igot an education in Botany focusing on the cellular structure of bamboo. Ofcourse those little cells make up fibers which require education instructural engineering and analysis. Oh yes, becoming a machinist and woodworker to be able to make rod components and more tools. Being a chemistsoI make the right choices of glue and finish. And now, a $10.00 electricmotor requires electrical theory. I LOVE THIS! Keep it coming, guys. My best regards,DickThe Bamboo Beaver Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Dan Hall Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 11:41 AMSubject: Re: Wiring question ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Richard R. Dutcher Trumpet Methodology, Inc. Richard R. DutcherTrumpet Methodology, Inc. P. O. Box 349 Work Voice: 206-660-1705BrinnonWashington98320-0349USAAdditional Information:Version 2.1Last Name DutcherFirst Name RichardAdditional NameR.Label Work P. O. Box 349 Brinnon, Washington 98320-0349 USARevision 20010210T222240Z from cadams46@juno.com Sat Feb 10 17:15:22 2001 f1ANFLe24638 18:15:21 EST Subject: Heat Treating and Boat Rod I am thinking about redoing my heating oven. Right now I have a heat gunrig and I think I'd rather try an oven with an element of some kind. Hasanyone had any luck with elements found locally like something at thehardware store? Being here in Salt Lake I'd think you could find anelement that'd work but so far nodda. For a while I thought a waterheater element would work, it seemed flexible enough to bend straight butthen I saw that is it very specifically warned only to use immersed inwater. I guess if I have to I could break down and order one.My second question is has any one built the PHY Boat Rod in theArchives? If so is it a 2 piece? The archive says that its a 2pc? so Iassume they weren't sure. Thanks gentlemen, greatly appreciated.Sincerely,C.R. Adams from dnorl@qwest.net Sat Feb 10 17:18:49 2001 f1ANIme24870 (63.228.47.72) Subject: Nobler where are you This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C09385.22567A00 George,I lost your address, Is the only difference between the P41 and the P41N =Speed gearing?Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C09385.22567A00 George,I lost your address, Is the only = between the P41 and the P41N Speed gearing?Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C09385.22567A00-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Feb 10 18:16:41 2001 f1B0Gee26053 Subject: Re: Wiring Question Hi folks,Rather than reply to a dozen folks independently, I'lltry to hit them all here on the list. This motor was madein 1954, so it's older than I am (but not much). It is asynchronous motor, 110v. I've got a grand total of $5 tiedup in it, including shipping. I'll give the "turn it by hand" thing a whirl. We'llsee if that works. Thanks for all the advice!!Harry Tony Miller wrote: HarryI don't think your wiring is wrong .It is probablythe type of motor.I have a small motor I use for wrappingand it does the same thing. I could be wrong here,I'm noelectrician. Howevermy motor is a 110 with two wires toconnect to a two prong plug. I've switched them around andit makes no difference.When I switch it on one time itgoes one direction ,turn it offand then back on it goes inthe opposite. Pretty hard to getit wrong with only twowires. 50/50 chance. So I'm convincedit is the type ofmotor. If anybody out there knows what were doing wrong,I'm all ears.Tony Miller --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from rkrees@mcn.net Sat Feb 10 18:35:05 2001 f1B0Z4e26492 Subject: Re: Heat Treating and Boat Rod ?My oven is made from a element from a convection heat oven from a R.V.1500Watts . I thenhave a fan to move air from a Bathroom Fart Fan and a old thermostat fromaold oven. StateTrailer should have the element for about Twelve Bucks and remember thataslong as the wire isnot broke you can fashion it in any shape that you wish.Ron from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sat Feb 10 18:39:00 2001 f1B0cxe26677 ; Sat, 10 Feb 2001 19:37:59 -0500 Subject: Drying Cabinet Last weekend, I took the plunge and decided to make a new drying cabinet. Previously, I had been using a Rubbermaid cabinet with a halogen lamp in the bottom. I never quite felt comfortable with that, knowing that it was using a tremendous amount of power just to get the temp up in such a big space. (And I needed that cabinet to get the tools off my benches before the gremlins get them.)Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got at the local hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogena bulb because I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of the cabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, the bulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solve the problem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. I don't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from dpeaston@wzrd.com Sat Feb 10 19:26:57 2001 f1B1Que27508 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Bob, Do you have an inlet at the bottom and an exhaust port toward the top? Ifyou have these you should be getting a convection current through the cabinate. Have you checked the temp, say, midway from top to bottom? Also youmay not need such a hot source. I use a 60 watt bulb in a 8" vinyl drainpipe. I let air in all around the bottom and regulate how much comes outthe top. I still get a bit more heat at the bottom than the top. -Doug At 07:36 PM 2/10/01 -0500, Bob Maulucci wrote:Last weekend, I took the plunge and decided to make a new drying cabinet. Previously, I had been using a Rubbermaid cabinet with a halogen lamp in the bottom. I never quite felt comfortable with that, knowing that it was using a tremendous amount of power just to get the temp up in such a big space. (And I needed that cabinet to get the tools off my benches before the gremlins get them.)Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got at the local hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogena bulb because I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of the cabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, the bulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solve the problem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. I don't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat Feb 10 20:45:17 2001 f1B2jGe28341 Subject: Winston Tapers Friends,I've got a customer who thinks he wants a bamboo rodsimilar to those made by Winston. Do any of you have anytapers? Or should I call Glenn Brackett? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from channer1@rmi.net Sat Feb 10 20:51:22 2001 f1B2pLe28574 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Bob;It is too small and the bulb is too close to the wood. I made mine from1"x12" with a plexiglass door and a closet fixture that holds a barebulb in the bottom of it(heat rises, so why put it in the top?), haven'thad any problems with it at all. I also put a coffee can over the bulbafter I varnish a rod and leave it on until the next morning.John Bob Maulucci wrote: Last weekend, I took the plunge and decided to make a new drying cabinet.Previously, I had been using a Rubbermaid cabinet with a halogen lamp inthe bottom. I never quite felt comfortable with that, knowing that it wasusing a tremendous amount of power just to get the temp up in such a bigspace. (And I needed that cabinet to get the tools off my benches beforethe gremlins get them.)Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got at thelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogena bulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of thecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solve theproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 10 21:02:25 2001 f1B32Pe28847 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Darrell Lee's Email address? Organization: Does anyone have Darrell's email address? Thanks in advance, Randall R.Gregory NW AR. from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 10 21:36:01 2001 f1B3Zue29452 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Snowwhite virus sent again. Organization: Did everyone else get the virus email again? It just got emailed to me againwithin the last 10 minutes. I'm really thinking someone on the list is kindof ticked off about something. Peculiar how some people get their kicks fromthis. Oh well, I won't waste any more bandwidth on the issue. Back torodmaking facts. Thanks everyone for the info regarding this. Randall R.Gregory from lblan@provide.net Sat Feb 10 21:45:23 2001 f1B3jMe29744 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: RE: Snowwhite virus sent again. Just an fyi for all who have received these... I haven't gotten a singlemessage with any virii or worms for some weeks. Look elsewhere. Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 10:39 PM Subject: Snowwhite virus sent again. Did everyone else get the virus email again? It just got emailedto me againwithin the last 10 minutes. I'm really thinking someone on thelist is kindof ticked off about something. Peculiar how some people get theirkicks fromthis. Oh well, I won't waste any more bandwidth on the issue. Back torodmaking facts. Thanks everyone for the info regarding this. Randall R.Gregory from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Feb 10 22:01:16 2001 f1B41Fe00127 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Possible virus? rodmakers list serv This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C0939C.28270140 That is definitely a nasty virus... I got an email from a guy in Belgium,and now I'm getting the virus message sent to me in French/Belgiumlanguage... sheeeeesh! Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:46 AM Subject: Possible virus? Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snowwhite and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have receivedit several times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyoneknow if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system each time.My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanksin advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C0939C.28270140 is definitely a nasty virus... I got an email from a guy in Belgium, and = sheeeeesh! Darrell GregorySent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:46 = rodmakers list servSubject: Possible =virus?Hello folks, I keep getting a message = attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when = messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I = completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active = AR. ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01C0939C.28270140-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Feb 10 22:01:17 2001 f1B41Fe00128 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Value on Goodwin Granger? Marty's right on as usual... if it's a hanger... sell one of us the bag andtube... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Value on Goodwin Granger? CW, $300 to $400 is for a complete 9' Granger with 2 tips. All sectionsequal length and in EX. cond. What you have there is a parts rod. Withthe bag and tube $100. The reel $30-$50 more. Marty List folks, need your help, Recently a Goodwin Granger Denver Special came available locally.It is a 9 ft 3/2 but the mid and one tip are short. The mid is 4 inshort and the broken tip is 8 in short. The rod has been revarnishedat some point, probabaly when one or other of the broken sectionswas repaired. It has what looks to be the original bag and tube(label missing). It was purchased new by a relative of the seller, theoriginal owner passed away a couple of years ago at 106. Theguides and ferrells look to be OK, most of the windings are also,although I'm not sure if it was rewrapped when revarnished. Thegrip is in good shape and likely cleaned also. There is also the reelwith it, a Pfluger "Gem" No. 2095. In checking some of the classic sites prices for this rod seem to run$300 - $400 but for what I suspect are in much better condition thanthis one. Near as I could find the reel would run $50 +/-. It is alarge reel, black, in fair condition. Also any information on line size would be helpful. I figure if I bought it it would be a wall hanger that still got in somefishing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks CW GrayC W Graycwgray@lightcom.net from rkrees@mcn.net Sat Feb 10 22:03:44 2001 f1B43ie00494 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. I also have not recieved any mail of this sort from this list this time.Ron from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sat Feb 10 22:08:15 2001 f1B48Ee00719 Subject: Re: Possible virus? Just got a couple titled EM. For those using Eudora, there is a folder titled attachments. It is a sub folder of Eudora. The virus attachments are stored there when the mail is downloaded. If you have received any virus email's, you had better clean it out. They don't (always) get deleted when the email's are deleted. You may have a virus sitting there waiting for you to inadvertently execute it! Best regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.comAt 03:20 PM 2/10/01 -0600, Jojo DeLancier wrote:I first got this several days ago. The address listed is a dummy that the virus uses on all replicant notes it sends out. Someone has gotten infected and their computer is spitting the replicants out. Don't open the attachment, and delete it all.M-DFrom: Bob Nunley Randall,I have gotten it several times to, and I "think" it is a virus. The email address it comes from is a dummy address that you can't mail back to, and I know there is a virus out there called SnowWhite, so I do as you did, delete it from inbox, then delete it from deleted files. I don't open any attachment unless I'm expecting one from somebody. Bob From: Randall Gregory goodaple@tcac.net>Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snow white and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 10 23:18:37 2001 f1B5Iae01751 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: TEST ONLY DISREGARD Organization: from CALucker@aol.com Sat Feb 10 23:51:45 2001 f1B5pie02192 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I made my cabinet out of those 3/4 inch pine boards that are nominally 12 inches wide. The door is clear plexiglas. The cabinet is seven feet high. The bottom is a compartment insulated with fire proof inch and a half foiled foam. In the center of the bottom compartment is a ceramin light fixtureand a 150 watt kitchen bulb. I have the bulb controlled by a dimmer that is mounted on the front of the cabinet about three inches off the floor so I can control it with my foot. I have an aluminum deflector plate with lots of 1/2 inch holees in it above the bulb. I have three thermometers -- near the bottom, middle and top. Near the top of the cabinet i have rails to hold assorted 1 x 2 strips that have lots of hooks on them. I can store up to 12 rod sections in this cabinet easily.Chris from ctn45555@centurytel.net Sat Feb 10 23:59:45 2001 f1B5xie02437 Organization: Smith & Boyd Subject: Sherline Lathe I am considering bying a Sherline mini lathe for rodbuilding. Will beused mainly for turning ferrule stations and cork grips. At some point Iwill probably try my hand at Making ferrules. The offer two models, onewith 8 inch centers and one with 17 inch centers. Bot have a .405 holethrough the headstock. Does anyone have experience with sherline lathes?Do they work well for the purposes I intend? Also, would the 8 inchlathe be big enough for turning a 6 or 7 inch grip. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chad S. Boyd from bh887@lafn.org Sun Feb 11 01:15:25 2001 f1B7FOe03305 Subject: Re: California This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C093B7.A93E3B20 Don, You forgot to mention the California Trout Stamps you must have with the =license. You are right about Yosemite and the waters surrounding it, =but I doubt Christian will get high enough to go after Goldens.Gee, I wonder if he would be interested in a guide? Lee Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 1:19 PMSubject: Re: California Does anybody have any suggestion for fishing in california this = We will be most likely in state parks but if time allows it would be = California is a 14+ hour drive north to south and that's if you are = In General, the further north or higher in the mountains that you are = If you are tour driving around the state then most people drive from = Francisco to LA along the coast. The freshwater fishing along this = If you are inland and in the Sierra Nevada mountains, then any water = Yosemite National Park would be my first pick of places to tell you to = and fish. The Merced River flows through the Yosemite Valley. Plus you = drive to unlimited number of other streams and lakes.You need a = fishing permit that you can purchase in the park plus a valid CA state = I don't have the 2001 fishing license prices with me. But a California = fishing license is about $10/day or much less per day if you buy an = You should try to find a lake or stream that holds the Caliornia state = the Golden Trout. Besides being very beautiful, it it is also very = ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C093B7.A93E3B20 Don, You forgot to mention the California Trout Stamps = Goldens. guide? Lee----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, February 10, = PMSubject: Re: CaliforniaIn a = 2/10/01 9:13:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, rp43640@online-club.de = Does anybody have any suggestion for fishing in = coming summer? We will be most likely in state parks but if = allows it would be interesting to know what would be = Christian, California is a 14+hour = north to south and that's if you are driving at near-supersonic = speeds. What part of California will you be in? In = the further north or higher in the mountains that you are the the = the trout fishing. If you are tour driving around the state = people drive from San Francisco to LA along the coast. The = fishing along this route is very limited. If you are = the Sierra Nevada mountains, then any water will be good fishing = last spring runoff. Yosemite National Park would be my first = places to tell you to see and fish. The Merced River flows through = Yosemite Valley. Plus you can drive to unlimited number of other = and lakes.You need a special fishing permit that you can purchase = park plus a valid CA state fishing license to fish in the park = I don't have the 2001 fishing license prices with me. But a = fishing license is about $10/day or much less per day if you buy = license. You should try to find a lake or stream that = Caliornia state fish - the Golden Trout. Besides being very = it is also very rare and C& R is the rule of the day fishing = Canerods@aol.com ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C093B7.A93E3B20-- from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 11 06:42:01 2001 f1BCg0e05209 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. Guys,I haven't received anything suspicious since the Emmanuelle virus hit sohard. (Fortunately I headed that one off before damage was done.)I think you'd better check any other sources you may be in contactwith.Art At 09:39 PM 02/10/2001 -0600, Randall Gregory wrote:Did everyone else get the virus email again? It just got emailed to me againwithin the last 10 minutes. I'm really thinking someone on the list is kindof ticked off about something. Peculiar how some people get their kicksfromthis. Oh well, I won't waste any more bandwidth on the issue. Back torodmaking facts. Thanks everyone for the info regarding this. Randall R.Gregory from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 11 07:45:33 2001 f1BDjXe05735 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Sun, 11 Feb 2001 07:45:37 -0600 Subject: links Yeah, Yeah, Yeah, I know this is commercialism, but anyone who has links onmy Link Page, if you have a .gif banner or Logo of some kind that you wantput up for your link, please email it to me. I'm going to re-do the linkspage sometime over the next couple of weeks and would like to use bannersorlogos for those who have them... also, anyone who is not on there, thatwants to be, same thing, email me a logo or banner if you have it. If not,then just what you want the description of the link to say. Later,Bob R.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 07:53:13 2001 f1BDrDe05975 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 08:52:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Sherline Lathe HI Chad:I have the 17" one. I believe it is the 4400. It is fine for grips and ferrules.The operator can do lot with practice. I think they are nice.HOWEVER, I would also look into the Harbor Freight and Jet ones in that price range. I saw a friend's Jet lathe a few months back (about $1000), and I could not believe how rigid it was. Much nicer for the extra $300. Also, the Sherline is rather proprietary as far as parts go. After 2 years with it, I bet I could have bought a better, bigger lathe for all the $ I have in the Sherline.Bob At 09:30 PM 2/10/2001 -0800, Amy & Chad wrote:I am considering bying a Sherline mini lathe for rodbuilding. Will beused mainly for turning ferrule stations and cork grips. At some point Iwill probably try my hand at Making ferrules. The offer two models, onewith 8 inch centers and one with 17 inch centers. Bot have a .405 holethrough the headstock. Does anyone have experience with sherline lathes?Do they work well for the purposes I intend? Also, would the 8 inchlathe be big enough for turning a 6 or 7 inch grip. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chad S. Boyd Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 08:02:18 2001 f1BE2He06205 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 09:01:28 -0500 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. HI Art:Thanks for the Inocculate tip a while back. http://antivirus.cai.com/ I have been using this to stay clean since the Navidad one last month. I have been sent Snow White about 4 times in the last month.Bob At 07:42 AM 2/11/2001 -0500, Art Port wrote:Guys,I haven't received anything suspicious since the Emmanuelle virus hit sohard. (Fortunately I headed that one off before damage was done.)I think you'd better check any other sources you may be in contact with.Art At 09:39 PM 02/10/2001 -0600, Randall Gregory wrote:Did everyone else get the virus email again? It just got emailed to meagainwithin the last 10 minutes. I'm really thinking someone on the list is kindof ticked off about something. Peculiar how some people get their kicksfromthis. Oh well, I won't waste any more bandwidth on the issue. Back torodmaking facts. Thanks everyone for the info regarding this. Randall R.Gregory Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 11 08:33:00 2001 f1BEX0e07130 Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. No snowwhite here either. Haven't you guys learned not to open anythingother than jpg's or gif's yet?Avoiding viruses is real easy, if thetitle is something non-rodmaking, dump it! The first 2 yrs I was on thislist, I had an IBM Brontosaurus model 386, no virus protection of anykind, and I never got any of the five jillion viruses that went thruhere because I sent anything with an attachment to the trash, thendumped the trash file.Just a thooughtJohn Art Port wrote: Guys,I haven't received anything suspicious since the Emmanuelle virus hitsohard. (Fortunately I headed that one off before damage was done.)I think you'd better check any other sources you may be in contactwith.Art from thogan@rochester.rr.com Sun Feb 11 08:46:42 2001 f1BEkfe07506 f1BEhOw26949; Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I have had success with a wooden design that is approximately 5 feet tall 2feet wide and 4 inches deep. At the bottom I have a standard incandescentbulb. I also cut a hole in the center and thru hepa filter paper I push airvia a computer fan. This positive vacuum not only makes a dust freeenvironment, but I believe keeps a more even temperature. When theambienttemperature is about 64, the inside is about 85.----- Original Message ----- Subject: Drying Cabinet Last weekend, I took the plunge and decided to make a new drying cabinet.Previously, I had been using a Rubbermaid cabinet with a halogen lamp inthe bottom. I never quite felt comfortable with that, knowing that it wasusing a tremendous amount of power just to get the temp up in such a bigspace. (And I needed that cabinet to get the tools off my benches beforethe gremlins get them.)Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got at thelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogena bulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of thecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solve theproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 08:54:32 2001 f1BEsVe07721 ; Sun, 11 Feb 2001 09:53:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I have received many different designs and had many people respond. Thanks, but how can I save what I already have? Would the concensus be to add a reflector and a lower watt bulb?Thanks,Bob Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got at thelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogena bulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of thecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solve theproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, from dorothyt51@home.com Sun Feb 11 09:41:24 2001 f1BFfNe08252 ;Sun, 11 Feb 2001 07:39:06 -0800 Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. Good advise. Only open jpg's or gif's.Leroy..........----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. No snowwhite here either. Haven't you guys learned not to open anythingother than jpg's or gif's yet?Avoiding viruses is real easy, if thetitle is something non-rodmaking, dump it! The first 2 yrs I was on thislist, I had an IBM Brontosaurus model 386, no virus protection of anykind, and I never got any of the five jillion viruses that went thruhere because I sent anything with an attachment to the trash, thendumped the trash file.Just a thooughtJohn Art Port wrote: Guys,I haven't received anything suspicious since the Emmanuellevirus hit sohard. (Fortunately I headed that one off before damage was done.)I think you'd better check any other sources you may be incontact with.Art from kurt.clement@usa.net Sun Feb 11 10:40:30 2001 f1BGeTe08844 mailer(34FM.0700.15B.01) on Sun Feb 11 16:36:55 GMT 2001 Subject: Re: [Building Forms] f1BGeUe08845 This is several days old, but I am in the process of doing the same thing. Iused 5/16" steel rod for dowels, cut to 1-1/4" and chamfered the ends. Iamusing 5/16" hex head bolts and have set them up so that they are in theorderof push - dowel - pull, with the dowel on the center mark. I used a coarse5/16" tap with the same drill size for the hole you would use for metal -usually indicated on the tap. I would think that using the T-nuts would introduce errors in alignment, andthe maple taps very nicely. I lubricate the bolts and dowels with paraffin,and the dowels press in firmly, with no play, but the forms will slide openwith the pressure from the bolts. Wooden dowels would not be nearly asaccurate, and would swell with changes in the weather - as will the forms, butI would think that wooden dowels would be more prone to sticking. I just finished taping mine last night, and will true up the top and bottomsurfaces with a scraper plane before scraping the taper groove. Try taping directly into some scraps of maple - taps are cheap at a goodharware store. Lubricate the bolts with paraffin,they work very well. Kurt - SW missouri wrote:Finally got tired of draw filing steel forms. Concluded I purchased thewrong steel and did not have the right files. Since it was back to thestarting point, I have now opted for wooden forms, since working with woodis a set of skills I already have, as opposed to metal working. Acquiredsome maple yesterday. Ripped it to 3/4"x2-1/2", screwed the piecestogetherand had a vigorous workout with my Stanley 5-1/2 to joint the edges. I amready to start drilling holes for adjustment screws and dowels and had a fewquestions. 1. Dowels. Everyone seems to recommend steel dowel pins. I don't have aready source for these (could probably find them, but it's work). Waswondering why not use maple or other hardwood dowels? 2. Screws and tapping. Tapping is not a skill I possess. The woodworkerssolution to this problem consists of either threaded brass inserts orT-nuts. T-nuts are readily availabe. threaded brass inserts would hvae tobe ordered, so I am inclined to go with T-nuts and plain old hex-head bolts(I'll go with allen head bolts if I can find them, but that's iffy locally).This will require that I space my push-bolt more than 1/2" from mypull-bolt, which seems to be the recommended distance. Is this a problem atall? I thought one solution would be an assembly in which the set screwpull-bolt and dowel are all placed fairly close together, with the dowel inthe center and directly on the 5" station mark (as opposed to the normallyrecommended set up in which the dowels are centered between stations. Anythoughts on this? Appreciate your help. ____________________________________________________________________Get free email and a permanent address athttp://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 from lblan@provide.net Sun Feb 11 11:31:58 2001 f1BHVve09537 Subject: RE: [Building Forms] This will work just fine for maple, but be aware that if you ever findyourself with a set of steel forms, it will be the start of yet anotherlearning opportunity. Larry Blan Try tapping directly into some scraps of maple - taps are cheap at a goodharware store. Lubricate the bolts with paraffin, they work very well. from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Feb 11 12:21:29 2001 f1BILSe10246 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. Organization: Just wanted to let everyone know that I haven't opened any of these snowwhite messages and each has been deleted each time as well as antivirusprotection was ran each time. I have antivirus set up to run continuously. Iam not infected so there is no worry about passing it on. I would just liketo get out of the address book of the person that is unknowingly sending it.The only messages that I get are from the list. Thanks again, Randall G.PS. I update my antivirus regularly. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. No snowwhite here either. Haven't you guys learned not to open anythingother than jpg's or gif's yet?Avoiding viruses is real easy, if thetitle is something non-rodmaking, dump it! The first 2 yrs I was on thislist, I had an IBM Brontosaurus model 386, no virus protection of anykind, and I never got any of the five jillion viruses that went thruhere because I sent anything with an attachment to the trash, thendumped the trash file.Just a thooughtJohn Art Port wrote: Guys,I haven't received anything suspicious since the Emmanuellevirus hit sohard. (Fortunately I headed that one off before damage was done.)I think you'd better check any other sources you may be incontact with.Art from dickay@alltel.net Sun Feb 11 12:26:56 2001 f1BIQue10494 srv.alltel.net Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:26:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Bob, Yes, I would either line the bottom foot of the cabinet with sheetmetal or some kind of reflector. Dry wood can ignite at about 165ŸF. Iwould go to a lower wattage bulb (60W maybe?) and add circulation via holesboth top and bottom. you can always close off some of the top holes tomakeit warmer in the cabinet. Try this and see how it works.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I have received many different designs and had many people respond.Thanks, but how can I save what I already have? Would the concensus be toadd a reflector and a lower watt bulb?Thanks,Bob Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got atthelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogenabulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside ofthecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood,thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solvetheproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at thetop.Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Feb 11 12:31:42 2001 f1BIVge10744 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Organization: Taylor, I like the computer fan/filter idea. I think I will add one to mine.Thanks for the idea. Randall R. Gregory ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I have had success with a wooden design that is approximately 5 feet tall2feet wide and 4 inches deep. At the bottom I have a standard incandescentbulb. I also cut a hole in the center and thru hepa filter paper I pushairvia a computer fan. This positive vacuum not only makes a dust freeenvironment, but I believe keeps a more even temperature. When theambienttemperature is about 64, the inside is about 85.----- Original Message -----From: "Bob Maulucci" Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 7:36 PMSubject: Drying Cabinet Last weekend, I took the plunge and decided to make a new dryingcabinet.Previously, I had been using a Rubbermaid cabinet with a halogen lamp inthe bottom. I never quite felt comfortable with that, knowing that itwasusing a tremendous amount of power just to get the temp up in such abigspace. (And I needed that cabinet to get the tools off my benches beforethe gremlins get them.)Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got atthelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogenabulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside of thecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood, thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solvetheproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at the top. Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from GriffinJohn@email.msn.com Sun Feb 11 12:34:53 2001 f1BIYqe10973 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 10:34:48 -0800 "Rodmakers@Wugate. Wustl. Edu" Subject: Wooden Threads FILETIME=[5072E0C0:01C09459] Just a couple of tips if you're Tapping Threads Into Wood: - Use coarse threads (USS, not SAE, tap. Best are acme threads; thesetaps and dies are available form any good woodworking supplier. Look at yourbench vise. It has broad shouldered acme threads, if it is a good one). - Reinforce the threads with thin CA glue (tap threads in wood. Usedegreased tap. Flood hole with thin CA. It will wick in . Retap threads. John-----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/free_video/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: [Building Forms] This will work just fine for maple, but be aware that if you ever findyourself with a set of steel forms, it will be the start of yet anotherlearning opportunity. Larry Blan Try tapping directly into some scraps of maple - taps are cheap at agoodharware store. Lubricate the bolts with paraffin, they work very well. from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Sun Feb 11 12:53:54 2001 f1BIrre11549 Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. Howdy All I am rather embarrassed to tell this story, but here it is.This is a particularly irritating virus! It creates a black and whiterotating pinwheel in the center of your screen. Kind of hypnotic and verypersistent. I was in "auto click" mode late one night, opening and deletinga bazillion emails and I accidentally tried to open this file. Nothinghappened though, it is a delayed virus. I deleted it and ran McAfees andfound nothing. I thought I was OK. Then a few days later the pinwheelappeared! It took most of a day to remove it and fix my computer. McAfeeswas useless against it, Norton saved the day. This was my first virusinfestation. I try to pay a little more attention now and avoid "auto click"mode. I don't think that this virus "mails itself" to other addresses in yourlist. I think that some folks are distributing it in mass mailings. Rememberthat if you post in the Newsgroups on Usenet (ROFF) your address could beincluded in those big lists. Ray Wallace ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. Just wanted to let everyone know that I haven't opened any of these snowwhite messages and each has been deleted each time as well as antivirusprotection was ran each time. I have antivirus set up to run continuously.Iam not infected so there is no worry about passing it on. I would justliketo get out of the address book of the person that is unknowingly sendingit.The only messages that I get are from the list. Thanks again, Randall G.PS. I update my antivirus regularly. from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Feb 11 14:06:08 2001 f1BK67e12853 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: Gudebrod vintage b/w Jasper silk thread size A Anybody interested in 50 yd spools of this vintage silk thread? A websiteregular came across several boxes of it and wanted to know if I had anyoneinterested in it. The price is $12/spool or $110 per box of 12 (saves $34).This is the vintage thread on the black wood spools. Nice graphics on thebox. Shipping included. International add $5. It's a good price and this type of thread doesn't come up very often. If there's any interest, I'll have him send them to me. Please contact meoff- list if you are interested. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Feb 11 15:23:31 2001 f1BLNUe14344 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: N. Hollywood Tackle Show Fri-Sat there was a tackle show by NFLCC and there were some interestingitems for sale there. One fellow had 5 saltwater blanks of split cane... Ialmost bought some of them... but I passed... He wanted $50 each. He hadno They looked like they were for about 40-80 lb test line. But, I heard thatto join the Catalina Tuna Club you must catch a tuna on a bamboo rod withlinen line... so that would be interesting... finding some linen line thatis probably 40-60 years old that would still be able to withstand a nice30-60 lb tuna... One seller was asking up to $2,500 for a Kovalasky bamboo marlin rod.Guideswere held on by electrical tape... it was really in need of a restoration...However, an expert in those rods scoffed at the asking price tags... Makes me wonder what my F.E. Thomas bamboo boat rod with a rattan gripandtrumpet guides is worth? Another guy had a couple of fly blanks but they were still in the stringsand lots of open glue lines so they did not look appealing either... $50each. A fellow collector on the second day brought a rod that he wanted me to id awesome! Ivoroid reelseat 3pc/2 tip all full length all agate guides andtop. It was rough but a sight to behold for one interested in the turn ofthe century rods. Landman patent date on reelseat. This rod restored would look awesome with his Meek & Milam's, Talbot's andother fabulous Kentucky reels he owns. The rod even had the original formcase and bag... amazing after about 199 years! He's one of the sharp collectors who buys the casting rods as they can behad cheaply compared to the fly rods... Perhaps in 5-10 years, that marketwill take off... I managed to pick up several quality rods to add to my site, hopefully bytommorrow. End of report. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sun Feb 11 16:13:27 2001 f1BMDMe15307 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: N. Hollywood Tackle Show er... that was supposed to be 100 years... not 199 years... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: N. Hollywood Tackle Show Fri-Sat there was a tackle show by NFLCC and there were some interestingitems for sale there. One fellow had 5 saltwater blanks of split cane... Ialmost bought some of them... but I passed... He wanted $50 each. He hadno They looked like they were for about 40-80 lb test line. But, I heard thatto join the Catalina Tuna Club you must catch a tuna on a bamboo rod withlinen line... so that would be interesting... finding some linen line thatis probably 40-60 years old that would still be able to withstand a nice30-60 lb tuna... One seller was asking up to $2,500 for a Kovalasky bamboo marlin rod.Guideswere held on by electrical tape... it was really in need of a restoration...However, an expert in those rods scoffed at the asking price tags... Makes me wonder what my F.E. Thomas bamboo boat rod with a rattan gripandtrumpet guides is worth? Another guy had a couple of fly blanks but they were still in the stringsand lots of open glue lines so they did not look appealing either... $50each. A fellow collector on the second day brought a rod that he wanted me to id awesome! Ivoroid reelseat 3pc/2 tip all full length all agate guides andtop. It was rough but a sight to behold for one interested in the turn ofthe century rods. Landman patent date on reelseat. This rod restored would look awesome with his Meek & Milam's, Talbot's andother fabulous Kentucky reels he owns. The rod even had the original formcase and bag... amazing after about 199 years! He's one of the sharp collectors who buys the casting rods as they can behad cheaply compared to the fly rods... Perhaps in 5-10 years, that marketwill take off... I managed to pick up several quality rods to add to my site, hopefully bytommorrow. End of report. Darrell Leewww.vfish.net from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 11 16:33:53 2001 f1BMXre15990 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Chris...Make the holes 3/16" if at all possible. Did you know that if a rodsection leans up against a light bulb for an unspecified time, the lignincooks off and the fibers become like strings? Wanna guess how I know this?Art At 12:51 AM 02/11/2001 EST, CALucker@aol.com wrote:I made my cabinet out of those 3/4 inch pine boards that are nominally 12 inches wide. The door is clear plexiglas. The cabinet is seven feet high. The bottom is a compartment insulated with fire proof inch and a half foiled foam. In the center of the bottom compartment is a ceramin light fixtureand a 150 watt kitchen bulb. I have the bulb controlled by a dimmer that is mounted on the front of the cabinet about three inches off the floor so Ican control it with my foot. I have an aluminum deflector plate with lots of 1/2 inch holees in it above the bulb. I have three thermometers -- near the bottom, middle and top. Near the top of the cabinet i have rails to hold assorted 1 x 2 strips that have lots of hooks on them. I can store up to 12 rod sections in this cabinet easily.Chris from Oozakgpt@aol.com Sun Feb 11 16:34:33 2001 f1BMYXe16075 Subject: Nickel silver / reel seats --part1_83.6c24c87.27b86d72_boundary Looking for sources for NS for a few reel seats.Any sources or can anyone part with a little? What sizes would be appropriate?TIA Greg T --part1_83.6c24c87.27b86d72_boundary Looking for sources T --part1_83.6c24c87.27b86d72_boundary-- from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Sun Feb 11 16:51:41 2001 f1BMpZe16656 Subject: Old Winding Checks wanted I am interested in trying to find some of the old style winding checks thatwere used on lots of bamboo rods. Some look like they were metal (maybeNS?) and some were bakelite. Some of them appeared to have a conicalshape.Most fit flush with the end of the cork grip and then tapered down towardthe bamboo. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Joe =================================================Lost in the Hills of East Tennessee with a Bamboo Fly Rod in one handand a cigar in the other....."What a Great Life".http://www.direct-pest.com/rodmaker from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sun Feb 11 17:06:14 2001 f1BN6De17125 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 15:05:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Nickel silver / reel seats --------------6DC1CC351F82AE693710496E Greg,Try Bob Venneri, Russ Gooding, and MetalMart.com Theyall have NS. Harry Boyd Oozakgpt@aol.com wrote: Looking for sources for NS for a few reel seats.Anysources or can anyonepart with a little? What sizes would be appropriate?TIAGreg T --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church --------------6DC1CC351F82AE693710496E Greg, They all have NS. Oozakgpt@aol.com wrote:Looking anyonepart T --Harry Boyd"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." --------------6DC1CC351F82AE693710496E-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 11 17:28:25 2001 f1BNSOe17674 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Winston Tapers Hi Harry, Here are the tapers. I think these rods were refered to as"leetle fellers". 6' 2pc. #3 Winston measured over varnish deduct .003"Tip Butt00 .070" .170"05 .079 .17710 .092 .19015 .105 .20320 .118 .21925 .132 .23330 .145 .245 at 26 3/4" start of grip35 .158 under grip6" grip, 3 1/2" cap & ring seat W/ cork spacer. Medium action rod.Guide spacing 5", 9 7/8", 15 7/8" 23", 30 1/2", 38 3/4", 47" 7' 2pc. #4 Winston measured over varnish deduct .003"Tip Butt00 .065" .185"05 .076 .20110 .096 .21715 .113 .22620 .126 .24425 .138 .26030 .150 .28235 .164 .288 at 34" start of grip40 .182 under grip 5" grip, 3 1/2" cap & ring seat W/ cork spacer. med. fast actionrod.guide spacing, 4", 8", 12 3/4", 18 1/4", 24 1/4",32" ,40", 47 5/8",56". Good Luck, Marty Marty,If you have an occasion to mike the 7' #4, that might be a great help.I'm looking for something smallish, the 8' rod would not fill the bill. Ialready have the 7.5' rod.Thanks for the effort,Harry marty wrote: Hi Harry, I have a 7 1/2' #5 Montana Winston , a 8' #5 San fransisco, a7' #4 San Fransisco. If you want one of these I will mike it for you.All are 2pc. Best, Marty Friends,I've got a customer who thinks he wants a bamboo rodsimilar to those made by Winston. Do any of you have anytapers? Or should I call Glenn Brackett? Thanks,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from Kengorific@aol.com Sun Feb 11 18:37:46 2001 f1C0bke18923 Subject: linear taper I have a tip and mid section from an old flea market rod that I was going to rebuild into a 2pc 6'-4" banty rod. I finally got around to stripping the varnish and measured the taper. The rod seems to have a linear taper, the flat to flat diameter changes by .015" each 5" of length for it's whole length. I knew from the quality of construction and the painted ferrules that the rod was a cheap mass produced one. But now I wonder if thefinished product is going to justify the effort. I am a novice rod builder and was hoping this banty project would be a good learning experience, building some skills for future rods. I am concerned that this linear taper might be a real dog to cast and not be worth the investment of time and parts. Can any of you more experienced rod makers tell me how a 'straight' taper rod might feel? I am guessing that this rod would flex well into the butt secton and have problems developijng much power. Thanks for any input,Ken Is it common to use such ataper? Would such a rod from timklein@qwest.net Sun Feb 11 18:50:45 2001 f1C0oie19368 (63.225.240.105) Subject: Re: Snowwhite virus sent again. John wrote: Haven't you guys learned not to open anythingother than jpg's or gif's yet? I'd be careful about opening jpg's and gifs too. It's not very difficult tomake something LOOK like a jpg or gif on some systems. If you're not using virus protection, I wouldn't open ANY attachment unlessyou know exactly who is sending it and why... (and then I'd probably still delete it!) ---Tim from bassmeister_2000@yahoo.com Sun Feb 11 19:05:22 2001 f1C15Me19973 2001 17:05:23 PST Subject: Re: linear taper --- Kengorific@aol.com wrote:I am a novice rod builder and was hoping this banty projectwould be a good learning experience, building some skills for future rods. Iam concerned that this linear taper might be a real dog to cast and not beworth the investment of time and parts. Hi Ken,I'm most certainly a novice myself and have only refinished rodsor turned Monty's into banty's. For now, don't worry about thetaper! There are so many challenges and intricacies to learnabout! Be happy that the rod will probably cast like a wet duck.That way you can learn some lessons without feeling like youkilled a Payne! If you don't like it when you are done, take off the varnish andtry sanding down the tip section. Can't get worse, right? Have fun! And keep asking questions.Joe =====Joe MulveyStoneham, MA USA __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 11 19:19:35 2001 f1C1JZe20487 Subject: Re:linear taper This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09402.F1042500 KenWhy not build it. Like you said your self "it will give more experience = before I started planing and making my own rods. I think that all the =rods I restored gave me a good head start to making.If you think it might be a tomato stake, just don't put anyvaluable parts that might otherwise be used for a good rod.I've built quite a few banty(mid ,tip) rods and I only had one that =didn't cast good. Then again I think all splitcane rods are unique and =cast good.(some better than others,but all good) I would suggest that =everyone restore before trying to build(that's just my opinion) because =you can save your self allot of costly mistakes. In my mind I've only =just started to learn,but in reality I look back to when I started my =firstrod project (7years ago).It seems like its only been 2 years. LOL Good =luck on it and go for it. Let me know how it turns out.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09402.F1042500 KenWhy not build it. Like you said your = give more experience for future rods". I restored for a few =yearsbefore I started planing and making my= making.If you think it might be a tomato = put anyvaluable parts that might otherwise be= good rod.I've built quite a few banty(mid ,tip) = rods are unique and cast good.(some better than others,but all good) I = suggest that everyone restore before trying to build(that's just my = firstrod project (7years ago).It seems like = been 2 years. LOL Good luck on it and go for it. Let me know how it = out.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09402.F1042500-- from Lazybee45@aol.com Sun Feb 11 19:21:21 2001 f1C1LLe20644 Subject: PLaning form! Okey doke! Boy am I pumped! Finally caught up with buddy bob tonight and went into the workshop to make my planing form. Got the maple cut and drilled and tapped. The form is 78 inches long and we figured out a way to make the 30 degree bevel easily. Attach a wooden "shoe" to my razor plane(uh, guys you gotta get one of these! cheap and really easy to use!) with the correct bevel. Mark the correct depth on the form and usingsmooth strokes, take off the wood. this eliminates the need to make a whole new tool. I have not actually DONE this yet, first I need to attach the bolts, and make sure that the faces are square. Bob and I plan to do this later in the week.Payment will be (for his help) a rod blank. He said, "Ya'know, I have always thought that fly fishing might be fun. I have a couple of kayacks you know (I hadn't!) WOAH! this will make some of this stuff even more fun!hahahahaha!mark from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 11 19:32:44 2001 f1C1Wfe21127 Subject: Re: PLaning form! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C09404.C6596020 MarkCould you explain this shoe attachment. wooden roughing forms, than my final (metal)finish forms. How does it attach to your plane.and any other description would be helpful.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C09404.C6596020 Mark attachment.As a machinist I have more trouble = wooden roughing forms, than my (metal)finish forms. How does it attach to = plane. helpful.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C09404.C6596020-- from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 11 19:51:35 2001 f1C1pYe21885 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Art, LMAO I bet you found that out the same way I did! Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Chris...Make the holes 3/16" if at all possible. Did you know that if a rodsection leans up against a light bulb for an unspecified time, the lignincooks off and the fibers become like strings?Wanna guess how I know this?Art At 12:51 AM 02/11/2001 EST, CALucker@aol.com wrote:I made my cabinet out of those 3/4 inch pine boards that are nominally 12inches wide. The door is clear plexiglas. The cabinet is seven feethigh.The bottom is a compartment insulated with fire proof inch and a halffoiledfoam. In the center of the bottom compartment is a ceramin light fixtureanda 150 watt kitchen bulb. I have the bulb controlled by a dimmer that ismounted on the front of the cabinet about three inches off the floor so Icancontrol it with my foot. I have an aluminum deflector plate with lots of1/2inch holees in it above the bulb. I have three thermometers -- near thebottom, middle and top. Near the top of the cabinet i have rails to holdassorted 1 x 2 strips that have lots of hooks on them. I can store up to12rod sections in this cabinet easily.Chris from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 19:57:39 2001 f1C1vbe22111 ; Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:56:47 -0500 Subject: Drying Cabs Thanks everyone for the good advice. I had no idea that those Phillips Halogena bulbs were the same sort of thing as in a halogen work lamp. Too hot. The cabinet is working great now.I can dip this rod with the full intermediates now. Yahoo!BobBob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 20:02:58 2001 f1C22ue22449 ; Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:02:06 -0500 Subject: Linear Tapers I think many people are having (or have had) good success with more linear tapers. I am currently trying it myself with quad tapers. If you get the right progression (slope?) you want, it is a good starting point to then manipulate the finer areas like the tip and butt. If you look at some of the great casting tapers in a book like "Tournament Fly and Bait Casting" they are all linear. Most have a very even .012-.016" change over every 5 or 6 inches. I could post some if you guys want. (Maybe Paul already did them all?)I have also heard many good things about Hank Woolman's straight tapers. There is a ton of discussion on this in the archives.I say "Go for it."BobBob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 11 20:21:56 2001 f1C2Lte23085 Subject: Re: Drying Cabs Bob,I don't know how far this story got but one of those babies tipped overand necessitated Lionel Hampton's moving to a new apartment a couple yearsback here in NYC. Didn't need NEARly as much room for the belongings he hadleft either!They're toasty little buggers they are!Art At 08:55 PM 02/11/2001 -0500, Bob Maulucci wrote:Thanks everyone for the good advice. I had no idea that those Phillips Halogena bulbs were the same sort of thing as in a halogen work lamp. Too hot. The cabinet is working great now.I can dip this rod with the full intermediates now. Yahoo!BobBob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 20:42:36 2001 f1C2gZe23669 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:41:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Drying Cabs Hi Art:Wow. That's what I call hot stuff. I mean I have got way too much junk around here, but I don't need to get rid of it that way.Bob At 09:21 PM 2/11/2001 -0500, Art Port wrote:Bob,I don't know how far this story got but one of those babies tipped overand necessitated Lionel Hampton's moving to a new apartment a coupleyearsback here in NYC. Didn't need NEARly as much room for the belongings hehadleft either!They're toasty little buggers they are!Art Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from bh887@lafn.org Sun Feb 11 21:21:40 2001 f1C3Lde24497 forged)) Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Bob, About 30 years ago I designed and built my gun cabinet, which holds 12shoulder weapons and eight handguns...and I usually have more than that inthere!...in the 18 cubic foot interior. I heat the cabinet with two 15 wattincadescent bulbs. Have yet to have a gun rust on me. I realize a dryingcabinet will require a bit more heat than what I am generating, but I amsure that 100 watts is far too much. Further, i would suggest you use areflector placed so the heat is shielded from the sides of the cabinet. I'dgo down to a single 75 watt bulb and drop further to a 60 if you feel youare still generating too much heat. All IMHO. Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet I have received many different designs and had many people respond.Thanks, but how can I save what I already have? Would the concensus be toadd a reflector and a lower watt bulb?Thanks,Bob Anyway, I built a 6' tall x6"x6" cabinet from white pine that I got atthelocal hardware store. I installed a fixture and used a 100 w Halogenabulbbecause I wanted to have the bulb last. I noticed that the inside ofthecabinet is scorched around the bulb. What did I do wrong...the wood,thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solvetheproblem. The temp is 130+ at the very bottom and about 96 at thetop.Idon't want to burn down the house.Help.THANKS, from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 11 21:30:21 2001 f1C3UJe24778 Sun, 11 Feb 2001 22:29:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet 75 w seems good so far for this size. I will keep monitoring it for a few days.Thanks,Bob At 07:23 PM 2/11/2001 -0800, Lee Freeman wrote:Bob, About 30 years ago I designed and built my gun cabinet, which holds 12shoulder weapons and eight handguns...and I usually have more than that inthere!...in the 18 cubic foot interior. I heat the cabinet with two 15 wattincadescent bulbs. Have yet to have a gun rust on me. I realize a dryingcabinet will require a bit more heat than what I am generating, but I amsure that 100 watts is far too much. Further, i would suggest you use areflector placed so the heat is shielded from the sides of the cabinet. I'dgo down to a single 75 watt bulb and drop further to a 60 if you feel youare still generating too much heat. All IMHO. Lee Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from saweiss@flash.net Sun Feb 11 23:35:52 2001 f1C5Zle27157 f1C5ZgR180208 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet Bob,Leave the fixture at the bottom for when you want extra heat ( you canconnect it with a dimmer control), but put a cheap 2 tube fluorescent on theside of the cabinet. I also lined my cabinet with aluminum foil to reflectthe light all around. I think that the UV helps cure the varnish, as well asthe warmth of the fluorescents.Be sure to make vent holes top and bottom to get some air flow. You can puta piece of furnace filter over the bottom holes where the air is drawn in.Steve . What did I do wrong...the wood, thebulb, or the wattage? If I use tin foil on the inside, will this solvetheproblem. from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Feb 12 00:16:27 2001 f1C6GQe28156 Subject: Re: linear taper Hi Ken,First of all the experince you'll get in in stripping and rewrapping a rodwill be a valuable learning tool. A straight taper is not at all uncommonand how it will feel will depend on the steepness of the taper or "rise/100"as I call it. Generally the steeper the rise the faster the rod action willbe. You will also be surprised how stiff a short rod will feel compared to along rod such as a 9ft model.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: linear taper I have a tip and mid section from an old flea market rod that I was goingtorebuild into a 2pc 6'-4" banty rod. I finally got around to stripping thevarnish and measured the taper. The rod seems to have a linear taper, theflat to flat diameter changes by .015" each 5" of length for it's wholelength. I knew from the quality of construction and the painted ferrulesthat the rod was a cheap mass produced one. But now I wonder if thefinishedproduct is going to justify the effort. I am a novice rod builder and was hoping this banty project would be agoodlearning experience, building some skills for future rods. I am concernedthat this linear taper might be a real dog to cast and not be worth theinvestment of time and parts. Can any of you more experienced rod makers tell me how a 'straight' taperrod might feel? I am guessing that this rod would flex well into the buttsecton and have problems developijng much power. Thanks for any input,Ken Is it common to use such ataper? Would such a rod from Lazybee45@aol.com Mon Feb 12 03:08:11 2001 f1C98Ae00688 Subject: Re: Drying Cabs In a message dated 2/11/01 8:22:53 PM Central Standard Time, anglport@con2.com writes: At least Hamp saved his Vibes! Or maybe that was a copy he gave to the Smithsonian? Long live the MJQ!!!mark from Lazybee45@aol.com Mon Feb 12 03:08:49 2001 f1C98ne00712 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet In a message dated 2/11/01 9:22:14 PM Central Standard Time,bh887@lafn.org writes: Hey rember this. Any of you guys with daughters, I don't remember the wattage, but the Easy Bake Oven baked cakes (little ones it is true) using only a single lightbulb for a heat source. Still make 'em as far as I know and they work well. I ate MANY a cake by my three daughters while theywere growing up! The 25 year old married a guy who can cook. BOY do I LOVE going to their house!(sad note) wife now has me (and her) on a low fat, low sugar diet. arrgh! I am even reduced to LITE beer! (SOB!)mark from Lazybee45@aol.com Mon Feb 12 03:14:03 2001 f1C9E2e01081 Subject: Re: Drying Cabinet In a message dated 2/11/01 11:36:32 PM Central Standard Time, saweiss@flash.net writes: I got a little scrap of furnace filter last summer while restoring a motorcycle (I used it for the air cleaner element to replace one just like it! Honda wanted $40 for one, the True Value store GAVE me a chunk thesize I needed from a roll of furnace filter material they have on hand. sells for something like $.03 a foot! I needed a piece 5 inches long, they said "Just take it!" I recommend TV stores! LOtS of goodies and the one near me has really helpful older guys working there! (older than me anyway!)mark from stewart4@zbzoom.net Mon Feb 12 06:45:04 2001 f1CCj4e02620 (24.154.23.138) Subject: Node File This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C094C7.D1754460 I have been using a new file for nodes and wanted to let everyone know =about it. The thing works great. It is made by Nicholson and is for =plastics and laminates. Double cut one side and single cut on the other =with a beavertail like modular handle. It doesn't clog and makes a =really smooth cut with much less effort and time than any other file I =have tried. I have tried about everything. It was about $8 at the =local hardware store. Hope this is useful. ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C094C7.D1754460 I have been using a new file for nodes and wanted to= clog and makes a really smooth cut with much less effort and time than = ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01C094C7.D1754460-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Mon Feb 12 09:41:17 2001 f1CFfFe07535 (62.188.136.180) Subject: Everything and anything This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0950A.4C7AC620 Having been of the air for a while, computer had to have a transplant, =I have been following things using a computer at the local library. =But, being public systems, and with all the talk of viruses, I didn't =reply to anything. So, and in no particular order, here's my two bobs =worth:- Lathes. I have in the past built and refurbished several composite =rods. For shaping cork handles I made (copied) ye olde style =reciprocating lathe. If you've not seen one, it's basically a bendy =stick anchored at one end, with a piece of cord going round the piece to =be turned and down to a treadle. It revolves backwards and forwards so = lathe, originally battery powered, intended to shape EPF. Refurbishing cheap, non-descript rods. AS I said earlier, having =worked with composite rods I thought cane wouldn't be a great problem. =Whipping rings on, stripping varnish etc. are basically the same. But =straightening warped cane, replacing ferrules is an other matter. I =over heated one tip, causing it to delaminate at various points and =twist even more. But as they a bits and pieces given to me or picked up =at flea markets I am happy to experiment on them knowing I haven't =wrecked a classic (I hope!!!). To be Continued...... York Sorry if this is a bit long ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0950A.4C7AC620 Having been of the air for a while, computer had to = bobs worth:- refurbished several composite rods. For shaping cork handles I made = bendy stick anchored at one end, with a piece of cord going round the = EPF. Refurbishing cheap, non-descript = said earlier, having worked with composite rods I thought cane wouldn't = wrecked a classic (I hope!!!). SteVe Cook York Sorry if this is a bit long ------=_NextPart_000_008F_01C0950A.4C7AC620-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Mon Feb 12 09:50:36 2001 f1CFoUe08197 (62.188.136.180) Subject: Anything and everything Having been of the air for a while, computer had to have a transplant, Ihave been following things using a computer at the local library. But,being public systems, and with all the talk of viruses, I didn't reply toanything. So, and in no particular order, here's my two bobs worth:- Lathes. I have in the past built and refurbished several composite rods. If you've not seen one, it's basically a bendy stick anchored at one end,with a piece of cord going round the piece to be turned and down to atreadle. It revolves backwards and forwards so you can only cut on the ownstroke. It does however, work very well. originally battery powered, intended to shape EPF. Refurbishing cheap, non-descript rods. AS I said earlier, having workedwith composite rods I thought cane wouldn't be a great problem. Whippingrings on, stripping varnish etc. are basically the same. But straighteningwarped cane, replacing ferrules is an other matter. I over heated one tip,causing it to delaminate at various points and twist even more. But as theya bits and pieces given to me or picked up at flea markets I am happy toexperiment on them knowing I haven't wrecked a classic (I hope!!!). To be Continued...... SteVe Cook York Sorry if this is a bit long Bye for now from Ralf.Ladda@t-online.de Mon Feb 12 09:50:53 2001 f1CFole08216 fwd02.sul.t-online.com +0100 Subject: Tungsten Steel Wire Hi everybody, while ago somebody (unfortunately I can't remember who it was) posted amessage to the list about heat treating / hardening tungsten steel wire process caused the tungsten steel wire to turn black or kind of blue.Does anybody remember what the temperature for the heat treating wasandhow long you have to do it? Thanks in advance Ralf from Germany from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Mon Feb 12 14:57:33 2001 f1CKvVe00494 (5.5.2653.19) rodmakers list serv Subject: RE: Possible virus? This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09536.019839E0 yes it is a virus - destroy it without opening it. then check your system(our firewall and virus scan picked it up thursday). -----Original Message----- Subject: Possible virus? Hello folks, I keep getting a message from ( Hahaha ---Entitled --- snowwhite and the seven dwarfs.) It has an attachment with it. I have receivedit several times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyoneknow if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system each time.My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanksin advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09536.019839E0 yes it firewall and virus scan picked it up thursday). -----Original Message-----From: Randall Gregory 2001 8:46 virus?Hello folks, I keep getting a message attachment with it. I have received it several times lately when checking messages from the list. Does anyone know if it is a virus etc. I deleted it completely from my system each time. My virus protection is active with no alerts. Maybe I'm just panicky. Thanks in advance. Randall Gregory NW AR. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C09536.019839E0-- from ttalsma@macatawa.org Mon Feb 12 15:08:07 2001 f1CL87e01427 Subject: Re: Possible virus? - Nope here's a real one. VIRUS WARNING! MacNet has received several calls from local companies and MacNetmemberswho have been infected with a mutating virus called: Anna Kournikova which has in it's Subject Line: Here you are ;-) orHere you have ;o) orHere you go ;-) Information from CNET: A virus posing as a photo of Russian tennis player Anna Kournikovaspreadaggressively on Monday, as major security companies rushed to updatetheirantivirus software to detect the fast-spreading e-mail virus. Also known as VBS/SST, the virus initially poses as anattachment-- AnnaKournikova.jpg.vbs--included in a message with one ofthreesimilar subject lines: "Here you are ;-)," "here you have ;o)" and "hereyougo ;-)." MacNet system administrators are working on blocking emails carryingthisvirus. If received, please do not open the email and delete it. Formoreinformation please read: CNET:http://news.cnet.com/news/0-1003- 200-4792664.html?tag=mn_hd orMcAffe:http://vil.nai.com/vil/virusChar.asp?virus_k=99011. --Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from stewart4@zbzoom.net Mon Feb 12 17:32:14 2001 f1CNWEe12439 (24.154.23.138) Subject: Node File This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C09522.372A0020 Hey guys,I threw away the package a while ago so I don't have the number. I =will stop by the store in the next day or two and get it though. In the = Total length: 11 5/8"Blade is marked "FOR USE ON PLASTICS"Package was the typical Nicholson Red/White and was marked for plastics =and laminates.As soon as I get the model number I will post it.Get back to you soon, Sean ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C09522.372A0020 Hey guys, a = Blade is marked "FOR USE ONPLASTICS"Package was the typical Nicholson Red/White and was= plastics and laminates.As soon as I get the model number I will post =it. Sean ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C09522.372A0020-- from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon Feb 12 20:46:17 2001 f1D2kBe16238 Subject: Using Ferrule Station Cutters Hi to all,I just wanted to pass along some information concerningmy ferrule Station Cutters. A few of the guys have experiencedsome binding when cutting the stations. I have back bored thesecutters .015 in. to allow for some clearance for this. But, I thinkwhat is happening, is that when you need to cut more than just the corners off of the cane, this is causing more friction andheat, witch is causing the cane to swell more than I had anticipated and the .015 isn't enough. Just to be on the safe side, if you need to cut off more than the corners, start with the next size larger cutter first and then use the proper size cutter. This will help keep the cane frombecoming too hot and swell up larger than the clearance I gavethem. All of you guys that have my cutter sets, be careful whencutting your blanks. If these things bind up enough, they willtwist your blank and cause damage to the blank. Another thing that I will do, if anyone wants me to. If you wantto send the cutters back to me, I'll back bore them larger andthis will definitely take care of this binding problem. All of the new sets I am making now, will be back bored considerably more to allow for any cane swelling. So, if any of you guys are having a problem using these cuttersjust let me know and I will make it right. Sorry for using the list for this, But I thought it was the bestway to reach all of the guys that have these sets. Thanks,Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from drinkr@voicenet.com Mon Feb 12 21:39:17 2001 f1D3d2e17432 (207.103.93.104) Subject: RE: Using Ferrule Station Cutters DaveIve been using the cutters one size larger just to be on the safe side sincethe beginning and I agree that it cuts down on binding. What speed do yourecommend as a cutting speed. If I choose to ream the bore larger what areyou suggesting I should move up to? Thanks for addressing this possibleproblem.Best Regards,David Rinker -----Original Message----- LECLAIR123@aol.com rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Using Ferrule Station Cutters Hi to all,I just wanted to pass along some information concerningmy ferrule Station Cutters. A few of the guys have experiencedsome binding when cutting the stations. I have back bored thesecutters .015 in. to allow for some clearance for this. But, I thinkwhat is happening, is that when you need to cut more than justthe corners off of the cane, this is causing more friction andheat, witch is causing the cane to swell more than I hadanticipated and the .015 isn't enough. Just to be on the safe side, if you need to cut off more thanthe corners, start with the next size larger cutter first and thenuse the proper size cutter. This will help keep the cane frombecoming too hot and swell up larger than the clearance I gavethem. All of you guys that have my cutter sets, be careful whencutting your blanks. If these things bind up enough, they willtwist your blank and cause damage to the blank. Another thing that I will do, if anyone wants me to. If you wantto send the cutters back to me, I'll back bore them larger andthis will definitely take care of this binding problem. All of the new sets I am making now, will be back boredconsiderably more to allow for any cane swelling. So, if any of you guys are having a problem using these cuttersjust let me know and I will make it right. Sorry for using the list for this, But I thought it was the bestway to reach all of the guys that have these sets. Thanks,Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from EM11EM22@aol.com Tue Feb 13 01:12:43 2001 f1D7Cge21644 Subject: test nm from raia.c@tiscalinet.it Tue Feb 13 01:43:24 2001 f1D7hIe22136 2001 08:43:15 +0100 Subject: Unsub: I'll be absent for long timeplease take me off from the list from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 03:22:38 2001 f1D9Mae23117 (62.188.13.221) Subject: Re: Anything and everything cont'd Scrapers. Having been round 'Mousey Thompsons works some years ago Isawthem using bits of galss as scrapers and have been done so my self eversince. A freind instals double glzing so I can get all I want free. Drying cabinets Its my understanding that standard bulbs and tubes donot emit UV so I don't think that is what is helping the curing process.Smoking might help though. It definitely cures kippers (Snigger!!) Rod Rings (Guides) Some time ago I'm sure I found a site with a methodof making snake guides out of paper clips. Does anybody know this site asI've forgotten which it was. from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 03:39:28 2001 f1D9dQe23397 (62.188.13.221) Subject: Banty rods I have just acquired a Sharpe's Featherweight #5, that , , was trampled on is the handle and tip section. If I make it into a 5' rod will it stillwork with a 5wt line all will I need to use something heavier. To me therod would be a lot stiffer and require extra weight to make it 'work'. Cheers SteVe Cook York from dannyt@frisurf.no Tue Feb 13 04:02:36 2001 f1DA2Ze23733 +0100 +0100 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; WinNT4.0; en-US; m18)Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Anything and everything cont'd danny Rod Rings (Guides) Some time ago I'm sure I found a site witha methodof making snake guides out of paper clips. Does anybody knowthis site asI've forgotten which it was. from mrmac@tcimet.net Tue Feb 13 07:56:54 2001 f1DDure25977 FAA11936; Subject: Re: Anything and everything cont'd I think fluorescent bulbs do emit some UV energy. I don't know if it helpswith curing varnishes, but we work with UV curable inks, and have to put UVfilters over the tubes in the shop to prevent problems with the inks createdbythe UV emissions we have measured from the lights. Can't say what percentoftheir energy it is, but it definitely is in the UV wavelengths. FYI. regards, mac SteVe Cook wrote: Drying cabinets Its my understanding that standard bulbs and tubes donot emit UV so I don't think that is what is helping the curing process. from Canerods@aol.com Tue Feb 13 09:34:24 2001 f1DFYNe00108 Subject: Re: Wiring Question --part1_4c.10b837a7.27baadee_boundary I think it needs a starter capacitor to make it want to turn in only one direction. I doubt if one could be added to the motor if it didn't have one when built. dgb --part1_4c.10b837a7.27baadee_boundary I think it needs a startercapacitor to make it want to turn in only one direction. I doubt if one could be added to the motor if it didn't have one when built. dgb --part1_4c.10b837a7.27baadee_boundary-- from Fishnabug@aol.com Tue Feb 13 09:54:05 2001 f1DFrte01118 Subject: Other PHY Para Tapers? --part1_c9.d318b5a.27bab28e_boundary =A0 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para the 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forward mea= Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_c9.d318b5a.27bab28e_boundary =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Does a= the 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers pleaseforw= Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_c9.d318b5a.27bab28e_boundary-- from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Tue Feb 13 10:34:52 2001 f1DGYpe03393 0500 Subject: Montaque market prices: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C095B2.0839D8E0 I am hoping some one on the list can point me to new market prices onmontaques, as I have several in shop needing pricing. Thanks for taking thetime, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C095B2.0839D8E0 Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 I am =hoping someone on the list can point me to new market prices on montaques, as I =haveseveral in shop needing pricing. Thanks for taking the time, =Tim. Signature" Upstream =Always, Tim Doughty Rodmaker ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C095B2.0839D8E0-- from raia.c@tiscalinet.it Tue Feb 13 11:01:48 2001 f1DH1ge04977 2001 18:01:38 +0100 Subject: unsubcription I'll be not at home for long timeplease take me off from the listthankscosimo r. from FlyfishT@aol.com Tue Feb 13 11:04:28 2001 f1DH4Re05236 Subject: orvis taper Hi All,About a week or so there was a orvis superfine taper posted . Could someone send that to me. Thanks Much , tom from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 13 11:11:21 2001 f1DHBKe05806 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:10:54 -0800 Subject: Re: Montaque market prices: f1DHBLe05809 Tim, Here is the Classic Angler site you may already be aware of. I think theinformation is a few years old. I assume most Montagues are of similarvalue, but maybe they've risen since these estimates were compiled. http://www.gorp.com/cl_angle/canecoun/VALUE.htm Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu "Tim Doughty" 02/13/01 08:42AM I am hoping some one on the list can point me to new market prices onmontaques, as I have several in shop needing pricing. Thanks for taking thetime, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker from mrmac@tcimet.net Tue Feb 13 13:28:51 2001 f1DJSae14312 LAA02045 Subject: Epon curing/blank straightening Hello again, rodmakers -Soon will be gluing up the 8015 Guide Special. I'll be using Epon sinceI have enough on hand to glue up 200 years worth of rods at my rate ofproduction. Just learned of the heat set concept for Epon about thetime I finished the last rod and intend to use it this time. What isnot exactly clear to me is whether you should straighten the blankfirst, then do the heat set, or if you should do the heat set and thenthe straightening. Does it matter? Appreciate, yetstillmoreagain, your assistance and wisdom - mac from bhoy551@earthlink.net Tue Feb 13 13:48:10 2001 f1DJm4e15210 Subject: slow motors I recently received a catalog chock full of low rpm motors that might be useful for dip tube setups etc.They include geared motors, dc motors, timing motors, stepping motors and others. Prices start at about eight bucks and range to about $30. Some are higher. Lots of other electrical stuff. The company is called Herbach and Rademan. I just noticed that orders under $25 get charged a $5 "processing fee." They have a VERY extensive website. I've never dealt with this company, and certainly have no commercial interest, but I thought I'd pass it along. www.herbach.com 800/848-8001. Bill from flyfish@defnet.com Tue Feb 13 14:24:44 2001 f1DKOge16754 Subject: Re: Orvis Taper This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C0956C.1FAFDEC0 Tom 5-6wt.Butt Tip80 .261 0 .07675 .261 5 .09470 .246 10 .11165 .231 15 .12460 .226 20 .13355 .207 25 .14450 .194 30 .15945 .190 35 .16440 .170 40 .170Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C0956C.1FAFDEC0 TomIt was me! The taper is a Orvis = 2pc.2tip 5-6wt. Tip80 = .07675 = .09470 .11165 .12460 .133 .144 .159 .164 Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C0956C.1FAFDEC0-- from rextutor@about.com Tue Feb 13 14:49:43 2001 f1DKnge17911 (NPlex 5.1.050) Subject: Re: slow motors f1DKnhe17912 Bill Do you think the 115 Vac Timing Motors on page 11 would work ? Are you going to buy any ? I will start a group order if there is interst. They are 9.95 . I was going to get at least two so all I need is one more motor purchase to get under the $25. credit card order. thanksRex---- Begin Original Message ---- Subject: slow motors I recently received a catalog chock full of low rpm motors that might be useful for dip tube setups etc.They include geared motors, dc motors, timing motors, stepping motors and others. Prices start at about eight bucks and range to about $30. Some are higher. Lots of other electrical stuff. The company is called Herbach and Rademan. I just noticed that orders under $25 get charged a $5 "processing fee." They have a VERY extensive website. I've never dealt with this company, and certainly have no commercial interest, but I thought I'd pass it along. www.herbach.com 800/848-8001. Bill ---- End Original Message ---- Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from FlyfishT@aol.com Tue Feb 13 15:15:10 2001 f1DLF9e19443 Subject: Orvis Taper Thanks guys who sent the orvis taper. Tom from anglport@con2.com Tue Feb 13 15:24:42 2001 f1DLOfe20023 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? f1DLOge20026 There's an 11??!!?!?!Art At 10:53 AM 02/13/2001 EST, Fishnabug@aol.com wrote:Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other than & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forward me a copy. Best Regards, Dave Maxey from dutcher@email.msn.com Tue Feb 13 16:14:22 2001 f1DMELe22527 Tue, 13 Feb 2001 14:14:13 -0800 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? Hi Dave, If you have a Para 11 taper I would sure like to see it. I imagine a fewothers would too. Thanks in advance. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Fishnabug@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:53 AMSubject: Other PHY Para Tapers? Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forwardmeacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Feb 13 17:53:19 2001 f1DNrIe25751 Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:51:12 -0600 Subject: Re: Heddon? There are many of these rods still in great fishing condition. It's mostlybecause they were cared for properly !GMA from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Feb 13 18:17:01 2001 f1E0Gte26763 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? Dave, I would like to see it also. Marty Hi Dave, If you have a Para 11 taper I would sure like to see it. I imagine a fewothers would too. Thanks in advance. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Fishnabug@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 7:53 AMSubject: Other PHY Para Tapers? Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers otherthanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forwardmeacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from LECLAIR123@aol.com Tue Feb 13 19:55:24 2001 f1E1tNe28522 Subject: Re: Using Ferrule Station Cutters bh887@lafn.org, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu In a message dated 02/12/2001 10:39:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, drinkr@voicenet.com writes: Hi Dave,I bored the cutter bodys .015in. oversize for relief. I would probably go another .015 to .020 in. justto be sure there is enough clearance. That would be a bore of.030 or slightly larger, compared to the size of the cutter hole.I should think that that would be plenty.I also recommend a fairly fast speed on the lathe when using the cutters. I think that the slower speed would tend to make thecutter "grab" the cane more. I run my lathe around 750 RPMwhen cutting the stations and haven't had any problems. I wouldrecommend a speed of around 750 or slightly higher when youuse the cutters. Thanks,Dave http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from Troutgetter@aol.com Tue Feb 13 20:13:05 2001 f1E2D4e29063 Subject: Re: Banty rods In a message dated 2/13/2001 1:40:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: Damn it! Mad Cow Disease AGAIN!Mike from HomeyDKlown@att.net Tue Feb 13 20:18:55 2001 f1E2Ise29372 +0000 Subject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from channer1@rmi.net Tue Feb 13 20:41:29 2001 f1E2fOe00146 2001 19:41:22 -0700 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening Mac;The same goes for heat treated Epon as any other glue, get it asstraight as you possibly can BEFORE the glue sets up. That's the beautyof Epon and other slow setting glues, you can afford to fool with it foras long as it takes to get it right. Get it as straight as you possiblycan and then heat er up. A word of advise, if you have a horizontaloven, get the blank good and clean and cut the strings off the ends sothey don't hang up and bend the section you worked so hard tostraighten.John Ralph MacKenzie wrote: Hello again, rodmakers -Soon will be gluing up the 8015 Guide Special. I'll be using Epon sinceI have enough on hand to glue up 200 years worth of rods at my rate ofproduction. Just learned of the heat set concept for Epon about thetime I finished the last rod and intend to use it this time. What isnot exactly clear to me is whether you should straighten the blankfirst, then do the heat set, or if you should do the heat set and thenthe straightening. Does it matter? Appreciate, yetstillmoreagain, your assistance and wisdom - mac from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Feb 13 20:44:56 2001 f1E2ire00352 Tue, 13 Feb 2001 18:44:39 -0800 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Doggone Dennis. You've got to be the only dumb one on this list. Noquestion about it.:-)Harry PS -- Good thing you weren't gluing strips together. Ever tried to getNyatex off your glasses? It's no fun. Believe me. Dennis Haftel wrote: I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 20:45:08 2001 f1E2j6e00366 (62.188.132.118) Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm quite good at dunking the brush in my cup of tea . Thankfully I haven'tattempted to drink the varnish yet. SteVeYork ----- Original Message ----- Subject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from dutcher@email.msn.com Tue Feb 13 20:52:29 2001 f1E2qSe00863 Tue, 13 Feb 2001 18:52:24 -0800 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... There is always fly tying. No mistakes here, ha. Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Haftel Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:26 PMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from caneman@clnk.com Tue Feb 13 20:54:04 2001 f1E2s3e01031 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Dennis,Exactly why I now shave and keep my hair in a pony tail when working onrods... LOL Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from mrmac@tcimet.net Tue Feb 13 21:04:34 2001 f1E34Xe01523 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening Thanks to all for the suggestions. I had somehow been thinking that first theepoxy was allowed to set up at room temperatures, and THEN you applied theheat treatment as a second, separate operation. Don't how I got thatimpresssion, but the responses got me to realize that it is during the initialcure that the heat treatment is to be applied.Now *I'm* straight! best, mac channer wrote: Mac;The same goes for heat treated Epon as any other glue, get it asstraight as you possibly can BEFORE the glue sets up. That's the beautyof Epon and other slow setting glues, you can afford to fool with it foras long as it takes to get it right. Get it as straight as you possiblycan and then heat er up. from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 22:09:51 2001 f1E49ne03314 (62.188.144.232) Subject: Re: Anything and everything cont'd This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0963A.EC2E49E0 Interesting site although given my talents with an iron I don't think = Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:08 AMSubject: Re: Anything and everything cont'd http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/snake/indexe5.html Rod Rings (Guides) Some time ago I'm sure I found a site with a =methodof making snake guides out of paper clips. Does anybody know this =site asI've forgotten which it was. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0963A.EC2E49E0 Thanks Interesting site although given my talents with an = don't think I'll be using his technique foots straightening = ----- Original Message ----- danny = Cc: Rodmakers Sent: Tuesday, February 13, = AMSubject: Re: Anything and = cont'd Rod Rings (Guides) Some time ago =I'm sure I found a site with a methodof making snake guides out of =paper clips. Does anybody know this site asI've forgotten which it =was. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0963A.EC2E49E0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 22:09:53 2001 f1E49qe03321 (62.188.144.232) Subject: Re: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0963B.FCECFB40 You're right about it needing a start capacitor. I acquired a nearly =new bench grinder for nowt with the same problem. Replacing a two bob =item was deemed uneconomical by it's previous owners (the government). =I,m not sure how it's wired, but I'll check it out and let you know. SteVe Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:34 PMSubject: Re: Wiring Question I think it needs a starter capacitor to make it want to turn in only = direction. I doubt if one could be added to the motor if it didn't = ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0963B.FCECFB40 You're right about it needing a start = acquired a nearly new bench grinder for nowt with the same = Replacing a two bob item was deemed uneconomical by it's previous owners = you know. SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Tuesday, February 13, = PMSubject: Re: Wiring =QuestionI think it= starter capacitor to make it want to turn in only one direction. I = if one could be added to the motor if it didn't have one when = dgb ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0963B.FCECFB40-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Feb 13 22:10:49 2001 f1E4Ame03516 2001 20:10:41 PST Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... steve, you are a rodmaker when you drink thetea.....and like it! timothy --- SteVe Cook wrote:I'm quite good at dunking the brush in my cup of tea. Thankfully I haven'tattempted to drink the varnish yet. SteVeYork ----- Original Message -----From: "Dennis Haftel" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:26 AMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but heregoes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first toadmit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? Iwas coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (neverfails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that Ihad varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nicecoat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff",but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. NowI'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It shouldmake a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go inwith large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Tue Feb 13 22:20:05 2001 f1E4K4e04047 (62.188.144.232) Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm English I have to like tea!!! SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... steve, you are a rodmaker when you drink thetea.....and like it! timothy --- SteVe Cook wrote:I'm quite good at dunking the brush in my cup of tea. Thankfully I haven'tattempted to drink the varnish yet. SteVeYork ----- Original Message -----From: "Dennis Haftel" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:26 AMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but heregoes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first toadmit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? Iwas coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (neverfails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that Ihad varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nicecoat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff",but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. NowI'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It shouldmake a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go inwith large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Feb 13 22:26:34 2001 f1E4QYe04382 2001 20:26:35 PST Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... i mean, varnish and all! --- SteVe Cook wrote:I'm English I have to like tea!!! SteVe ----- Original Message ----- From: "timothy troester" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:10 AMSubject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... steve, you are a rodmaker when you drink thetea.....and like it! timothy --- SteVe Cook wrote:I'm quite good at dunking the brush in my cup oftea. Thankfully I haven'tattempted to drink the varnish yet. SteVeYork ----- Original Message -----From: "Dennis Haftel" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 6:26 AMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but heregoes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the firsttoadmit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? Iwas coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw(neverfails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized thatIhad varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has anicecoat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is"fluff",but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. NowI'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! Itshouldmake a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go inwith large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail- only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Spico81@aol.com Tue Feb 13 22:54:35 2001 f1E4sYe05179 Subject: munro forms --part1_94.1013cdf5.27bb696f_boundary Do any of you have experience with munro forms, more specifically the hex form? How fine does the tip section taper down to? Thanks. Sam --part1_94.1013cdf5.27bb696f_boundary Do any of you haveexperience with munro forms, more specifically the hex Sam --part1_94.1013cdf5.27bb696f_boundary-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Wed Feb 14 01:48:39 2001 f1E7mce07960 Tue, 13 Feb 2001 23:48:34 -0800 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:48:34 GMT Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... FILETIME=[889D5810:01C0965A] From: Dennis Haftel Subject: You know you're a rodmaker when...Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 22:26:51 -0800 I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky How about stripping the wet varnish off a blank when just about ALL the wraps bled through. varnishbaby That stuff was all over the shop!. As an aside it did keep down the dust! LOLA.J._________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from bh887@lafn.org Wed Feb 14 02:16:38 2001 f1E8Gae08499 Subject: Re: Banty rods Maybe the thing was employed by Hardy. Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Banty rods In a message dated 2/13/2001 1:40:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: Damn it!Mad Cow Disease AGAIN!Mike from stuart.rod@gmx.de Wed Feb 14 06:08:34 2001 f1EC8Xe10336 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Beat this..... When I first started I had not read one of the books yet, but I had thefirstset of tools for making a rod. So I set my forms planed away and aftertheusual starter problems (not believing my depth gauge readings) made averynice blank thank you very much, But ....it was much smaller than thetaper Iactually set out to make. A mistake in planing form setting? Well I madeanother one to see what I did wrong. Another month later the sameproblem.....measurements across the flats did not match the taper I had set upin myforms, they were much smaller. "Damn this depth gauge, damn this planingform,damn that cat" etc. Whilst standing there taking yet another set of flat to flatmeasurements oneevening it struck me........I had been measuring each strip across theapexduring planing, from apex to apex!! not flat to apex. Like I said....Who can beat that ?Any takers? Stuart Harry Boyd wrote: Doggone Dennis. You've got to be the only dumb one on this list. Noquestion about it.:-)Harry PS -- Good thing you weren't gluing strips together. Ever tried to getNyatex off your glasses? It's no fun. Believe me. Dennis Haftel wrote: I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 06:38:55 2001 f1ECcse10859 (62.188.142.118) Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... No can't beat thatIt just goes to show the old adage 'Measure twice cut once' doesn't alwayswork. What became of the 'thin' tapers? Were they better than the proper one? How does using a mug of tea as a soldering iron stand count. (This trickwas performed in front of the company owner, after I had persuaded him to His response was: 'Oh well, we all learn by our mistakes. AND THE RATE YOURGOING YOU'LL BE A GENIUS BEFORE LONG!!! SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Beat this..... When I first started I had not read one of the books yet, but I had thefirstset of tools for making a rod. So I set my forms planed away and aftertheusual starter problems (not believing my depth gauge readings) made averynice blank thank you very much, But ....it was much smaller than thetaper Iactually set out to make. A mistake in planing form setting? Well I madeanother one to see what I did wrong. Another month later the sameproblem.....measurements across the flats did not match the taper I had set upin myforms, they were much smaller. "Damn this depth gauge, damn this planingform,damn that cat" etc. Whilst standing there taking yet another set of flat to flatmeasurements oneevening it struck me........I had been measuring each strip across theapexduring planing, from apex to apex!! not flat to apex. Like I said....Who can beat that ?Any takers? Stuart Harry Boyd wrote: Doggone Dennis. You've got to be the only dumb one on this list. Noquestion about it.:-)Harry PS -- Good thing you weren't gluing strips together. Ever tried to getNyatex off your glasses? It's no fun. Believe me. Dennis Haftel wrote: I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on myhand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was justwonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patchesonmy mug! Later, Sticky --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from Lazybee45@aol.com Wed Feb 14 07:25:49 2001 f1EDPme11512 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time, stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jet instant glue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yet another crazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezing the bottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensive Beer locker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to work on some small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home from thestore to help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hard I tried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after she stopped laughing!mark from Canerods@aol.com Wed Feb 14 08:35:41 2001 f1EEZee13183 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... --part1_c1.ba27d0d.27bbf1b5_boundary When yu can't hit certain keys n the keybard because yu'll leave bld stains frm the bamb cuts n yur finger tips? dgb --part1_c1.ba27d0d.27bbf1b5_boundary When yu can't hitcertain keys n the keybard because yu'll leave bld stains frm the bamb cuts n yur finger tips? dgb --part1_c1.ba27d0d.27bbf1b5_boundary-- from ttalsma@macatawa.org Wed Feb 14 08:50:47 2001 f1EEoje13948 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... HEY!!! WAIT JUST A MINUTE!!! I resemble that remark (or at least used to). That's when I knew it wastime to stop. Canerods@aol.com wrote: When yu can't hit certain keys n the keybard because yu'll leave bldstainsfrm the bamb cuts n yur finger tips? dgb -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from Kengorific@aol.com Wed Feb 14 09:22:43 2001 f1EFMge16523 Subject: hand plane advise My wife has given me a money toward a tool purchase for Valentines Day! I would like to buy really nice hand plane. So, if you could afford only one really high quality hand plan which one would it be? I already have a fairly nice Baily plan with a fixed throat and screw adjustable blade, I own several good quality hand scrapers and few standard block plans. I saw some very nice things in the Leigh Neilson catalog, including several planes that had a .005 groove just for flyrod makers. Are these tools really worth $250 plus? I am into rodmaking as a hobby, not a profession so I might want to use this new tool for other woodworking projects as well. Any opinions would be welcome, Ken from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 09:33:06 2001 f1EFX0e17186 (62.188.26.201) Subject: Re: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C0969B.ADBB3B80 A large polarized capacity needs to be placed inline on the live side. =the way round depends on the direction you want the motor to go. The =size is dependent on the start-up current required. Ask at the local =motor refurb company I'm sure they will supply the appropriate size. It =might cost more than the motor mind you SteVe Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:09 AMSubject: Re: Wiring Question You're right about it needing a start capacitor. I acquired a nearly =new bench grinder for nowt with the same problem. Replacing a two bob =item was deemed uneconomical by it's previous owners (the government). =I,m not sure how it's wired, but I'll check it out and let you know. SteVe Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 3:34 PMSubject: Re: Wiring Question I think it needs a starter capacitor to make it want to turn in only = direction. I doubt if one could be added to the motor if it didn't = ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C0969B.ADBB3B80 A large polarized capacity needs to be placed inline = the local motor refurb company I'm sure they will supply the appropriate = Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Wednesday, February 14, = AMSubject: Re: Wiring =Question You're right about it needing a start = acquired a nearly new bench grinder for nowt with the same = Replacing a two bob item was deemed uneconomical by it's previous = you know. SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Canerods@aol.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Tuesday, February 13, = PMSubject: Re: Wiring =QuestionI think= starter capacitor to make it want to turn in only one direction. = if one could be added to the motor if it didn't have one when = dgb ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C0969B.ADBB3B80-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 09:41:56 2001 f1EFfoe18053 (62.188.26.201) Subject: Blades for planes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0969C.E7D2F280 Enough of this frivolity, down to some serous stuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for cane planning, lesser blades =won't keep their edge for long, as I have found out. So who supplies =them in England. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all I get are =rather earnest articles about poverty. SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0969C.E7D2F280 stuff. are rather earnest articles about poverty. Cheers SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C0969C.E7D2F280-- from rextutor@about.com Wed Feb 14 09:58:45 2001 f1EFwge18955 (NPlex 5.1.050) 2001 07:58:37 -0800 Subject: reel seat skeleton / components I am going to build some rod seats but I can't make the metal parts. I am looking for a decent price on reel seat skeletons for fly rods.Where do you think I can find these ? thanksRex Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 14 10:13:31 2001 f1EGDUe19935 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 10:11:09 -0600 Subject: Re: My little gripe You are correct Harry. When I first got on the list, over a year ago, manycouldn't read or receive my postings, Once I changed from the html setting,there were no more problems !GMA from Dennishigham@cs.com Wed Feb 14 10:16:44 2001 f1EGGEe20152 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening Mac,That's how I do it. I get the blank as straight as possible, let it sit overnight. Then I pull off the binding string, sand off the excess glue, rebind and heat treat. 180 degrees for 3 to 3 1/2 hours. After the blank is cool I strip off the binding string, sand off any remaining glue and do any final straightening. If you take your time getting the blank straight while the Epon is wet there should be very little straightening needed. Dennis "Thanks to all for the suggestions. I had somehow been thinking that first theepoxy was allowed to set up at room temperatures, and THEN you applied theheat treatment as a second, separate operation. Don't how I got thatimpresssion, but the responses got me to realize that it is during the initialcure that the heat treatment is to be applied.Now *I'm* straight! best, mac" from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 14 10:18:14 2001 f1EGIDe20301 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 10:15:56 -0600 "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: My little gripe In MS, you simply got to "Tools" in the top bar. When the Menu drops down,select Options. Then in the next drop down box select Send. There you willsee Plain Text, or html. Simply click on Plain Text, and it's done !GMA from stewart4@zbzoom.net Wed Feb 14 11:23:39 2001 f1EHNde23950 (24.154.23.138) Subject: Node File Update This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C09681.06171EE0 Hey guys,I just got back from the store. The file number is Nicholson =06612. Lowe's home improvement stores carry it too.Sean ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C09681.06171EE0 Hey guys, = it too. Sean ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C09681.06171EE0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 14 11:35:20 2001 f1EHZIe24784 0500 Subject: Re: hand plane advise This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C0961D.954C56C0 Ken rod makers want people to shell out around a grand that rod. LOL That's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation. Once I received my new Tom Lie Nielsen 212 I think his tools are great and I plan to purchase more in the future. =So I guess you know what my recommendation is. how much more work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be the =first time. But I liken the experience to usingbreathable waders or wading wet. Both have same results,which do you prefer?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C0961D.954C56C0 KenYou know it always strikes me funny = rod makers want people to shell out = grand = samesituation. Once I received my new Tom= 212scraper I knew that I had made the = soon as I used it. ( no commercial interest in = blah blah) I think his tools are great and I plan = more in the future. So I guess you know what my recommendation =is.I have heard of people using glass and = scrapers. And while I'm sure they work and are = can't imagine how much more work it must be. I might= usingbreathable waders or wading wet. Both= results,which do you prefer?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C0961D.954C56C0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 14 11:53:56 2001 f1EHrte25779 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 11:51:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Drying Cabs My drying cabinet is an old Coke machine, with the guts pulled out. I dried7 rods last summer at once, and had room for more ! With those doors, it'sreally sealed !GMA from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Wed Feb 14 12:31:12 2001 f1EIV9e27301 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgetting that it's"reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sitting andworking between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways one time. Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time, stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jet instant glue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yet another crazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezing the bottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensive Beer locker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to work on some small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home from thestore to help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hard I tried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after she stopped laughing!mark from homessold@email.msn.com Wed Feb 14 12:32:55 2001 f1EIWte27478 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 10:32:50 -0800 Subject: Re: hand plane advise FILETIME=[89927390:01C096B4] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09671.69519900 Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality tools. There is no such =thing as a cheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out to be =expensive in the long run when you finally bite the bullet and buy the =tool you should have in the first place. Just wanting to build rods for =myself, I would have been far better off financially buying rods from =one of you but then I would have missed all of the fun. Now I enjoy =building my rods and a few tomato stakes.Don Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:32 PMSubject: Re: hand plane advise Ken rod makers want people to shell out around a grand that rod. LOL That's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation. Once I received my new Tom Lie Nielsen 212 I think his tools are great and I plan to purchase more in the future. =So I guess you know what my recommendation is. how much more work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be the =first time. But I liken the experience to usingbreathable waders or wading wet. Both have same results,which do you prefer?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09671.69519900 Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality = no such thing as a cheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns = expensive in the long run when you finally bite the bullet and buy the = should have in the first place. Just wanting to build rods for myself, I = have been far better off financially buying rods from one of you but = would have missed all of the fun. Now I enjoy building my rods and a few = stakes.Don ----- Original Message ----- Tony = Sent: Tuesday, February 13, = PMSubject: Re: hand plane =advise KenYou know it always strikes me funny = rod makers want people to shell out = grand samesituation. Once I received my new Tom= 212scraper I knew that I had made the = as soon as I used it. ( no commercial interest = company blah blah) I think his tools are great and I = purchase more in the future. So I guess you know what my = is.I have heard of people using glass = scrapers. And while I'm sure they work and are = can't imagine how much more work it must be. I = usingbreathable waders or wading wet. Both= results,which do you prefer?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09671.69519900-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Wed Feb 14 12:35:18 2001 KAA14853 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening OK, OK,....now, I finally do have it all worked out with the help of thelist and some reseach at the Epon site. It is correct to allow the epoxy toinitially set up at room temperature, and then as a second, separateoperation, to do the hi temp cure. As I understand it, what is going on isthat at room temp the epoxy is forming long polymer chains. After they areformed, the high temperature creates crosslinking between them and it isthis crosslinking which improves the properties of the cured resin system.Attempts to do the initial cure at high temperatures would also result inthe crosslinking, but the polymer chain length would be shortened, resultingin less desirable mechanical properties, according to my local polymer pro. So, after every effort to have a nice straight blank while the epoxy isstill wet, if there is still need to do some minor straightening after theepoxy has set, do the high temp cure first, then do the straightening. Thatway, you have the full mechanical strength and a higher heat distortion temp Thank you to all who helped work me through this process. Now it makes alittle more sense as to what, when, and why. best, mac from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 14:27:03 2001 f1EKR2e02002 (62.188.131.74) Subject: Fw: You know you're a rodmaker when... I trust you have a wee noggin with it SteVe Ba tat ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/13/01 10:20:59 PM Central Standard Time,stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: IF IT'S NOT SCOTTISH, IT'S CRAP!! (very tongue in cheek here steve!) Myfamily moved from Scotland to the US in the late 1600s (hmmm, could theJacobites have anything to do with it?) still a bit of Scotish lore intheWallace/Garvey clan around here (also Sutherlands) I grew up drinking teaand have a 'cuppa' beside me as I write this.As an aside, yes, the family IS part of the Wallace (William,longshanks,enemy of the King) clan, rather direct too as I hear it and many of myolderrelatives are William Wallace, (I wonder why?)But I have always enjoyed things British, particularly your humor!please send us more! The beer isn't bad either.cheersmark garvey, Iowa USA from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 14:39:41 2001 f1EKdde02795 (62.188.137.178) Subject: Apocryphal stories This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01C096C2.90E93BC0 Between the wars (and it's not true the only war the Americans ever won, =was the civil war), an apprentice rod builder was sent over to a bench =to rent down a few splines. Jolly pleased with his work he was somewhat =aghast when the master builder returned and as was looking a bit miffed. ="T'other bench", he said, "you've just wrecked the Kings new rod". And =thus the outside splines for HRH's double built salmon rod became a =second tip to a trout rod. What happened to the apprentice I do not =know. This may, or may not, of taken place in Alnwick. Who knows?? SteVe Accidents will happen (even, in the best regulated families). ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01C096C2.90E93BC0 Between the wars (and it's not true the only war the= ever won, was the civil war), an apprentice rod builder was sent over to = aghast when the master builder returned and as was looking a bit = thus the outside splines for HRH's double built salmon rod became a = know. Who knows?? SteVe families). ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01C096C2.90E93BC0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 14 15:08:38 2001 f1EL8be04335 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 17:08:18 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Onis,thank you, thank you, thank you!! I don't feel completely stupid now. I didthe same thing with a dubbing needle once! Drove 2 inches of needle up to thehilt inmy knee. OuchHave done the same thing and crunched the family jewels pretty goodbefore as well,will we ever learn??Shawn k5vkq@ix.netcom.com wrote: Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgetting that it's"reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sitting andworking between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways one time. Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time,stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jet instantglue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yet anothercrazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezing thebottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensiveBeerlocker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to work onsome small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home from thestoreto help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hard Itried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after she stoppedlaughing!mark from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 14 15:26:58 2001 f1ELQwe05418 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 17:26:54 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: hand plane advise --------------3302166852A2D80B6C01F0F6 Hmmmmm,not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth on cheaphomemadetools and still use some of them today. Sure, I would love to go buy the bestbutsometimes cheap homemade tools aren't that bad. Just my opinion, ShawnDon Schneider wrote: Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality tools. There is no such thingas acheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out to be expensive inthe longrun when you finally bite the bullet and buy the tool you should have in thefirstplace. Just wanting to build rods for myself, I would have been far betterofffinancially buying rods from one of you but then I would have missed all ofthefun. Now I enjoy building my rods and a few tomato stakes.Don ----- Original Message -----From: Tony Miller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:32 PMSubject: Re: hand plane adviseKenYou know it always strikes me funny that we asrod makers wantpeopleto shell out around a grandfor a fly rod, but we don't want to pay $200 samesituation. Once I received my new Tom Lie Nielsen 212scraper Iknewthat I had made the right choice as soon asI used it. ( no commercialinterest in the company blah blah)I think his tools are great and I planto purchase more in the future. So I guess you know what myrecommendation is.I have heard of people using glass and handscrapers.Andwhile I'm sure they work and are economical. I can't imaginehowmuchmore work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be the first time.But I liken the experience to usingbreathable waders or wading wet.Bothhave same results,which do you prefer?TonyMillerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html --------------3302166852A2D80B6C01F0F6 Hmmmmm, not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth on cheap homemade toolsand still use some of them today. Sure, I would love to go buy the bestbut sometimes cheap homemade tools aren't that bad. Just my opinion, ShawnDon Schneider wrote: Tony, You are absolutelycorrect about quality tools. There is no such thing as a cheep inexpensivetool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out to be expensive in the long run whenyou finally bite the bullet and buy the tool you should have in the firstplace. Just wanting to build rods for myself, I would have been far betteroff financially buying rods from one of you but then I would have missedall of the fun. Now I enjoy building my rods and a few tomatostakes.Don ----- Original Message ----- From:TonyMiller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 20019:32PM Subject: Re: hand plane advise know it always strikes me funny that we asrodmakers want people to shell out around a grandfora fly rod, but we don't want to pay $200 for a tool to help make that rod.LOL That's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation.Once I received my new Tom Lie Nielsen 212scraperI knew that I had made the right choice as soon asIused it. ( no commercial interest in the company blahblah)Ithink his tools are great and I plan to purchase more in the future. SoI guess you know what my recommendation is.Ihave heard of people using glass and hand scrapers.AndwhileI'm sure they work and are economical. I can't imaginehowmuch more work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be the firsttime. But I liken the experience to usingbreathablewaders or wading wet. Both have same results,whichdo you prefer?Tony --------------3302166852A2D80B6C01F0F6-- from dr.matro@airmail.net Wed Feb 14 15:32:18 2001 f1ELWIe05842 sender: Organization: KC Graphics Subject: Shakespeare1231 creator="4D4F5353" Good afternoon, list I'm in need of wrap info on a Shakespeare 1231 New Gypsy. No, Sinclairdoesn't list it. Spurr's never heard of it. Huff doesn't have a clue,either. This is a rod taken in for repairs and not something on anauction board. TIA Ken Cole from darrell@rockclimbing.org Wed Feb 14 16:00:12 2001 f1EM0Be07343 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Drying Cabs rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Things go better with Coke! Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Drying Cabs My drying cabinet is an old Coke machine, with the guts pulled out. I dried7 rods last summer at once, and had room for more ! With those doors, it'sreally sealed !GMA from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 14 16:17:09 2001 f1EMH8e08087 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:17:04 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods rodmakers list serv Subject: Re: My little gripe Although not completely computer savy, I know there are settings inNetscape (MS tooI think) as to receiving and sending HTML messages, the way mine is set up itpromptsme whether it should send either/or/both depending on the recipients whattheirsettings say. What I'm not sure of is why some peoples computers can'taccept HTML.Is it a matter of settings ,older computers or slower ISPs ???Shawn nobler wrote: In MS, you simply got to "Tools" in the top bar. When the Menu drops down,select Options. Then in the next drop down box select Send. There you willsee Plain Text, or html. Simply click on Plain Text, and it's done !GMA from anglport@con2.com Wed Feb 14 16:17:37 2001 f1EMHae08117 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Welcome to the fold, DUM-DUM! At 10:26 PM 02/13/2001 -0800, Dennis Haftel wrote:I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from anglport@con2.com Wed Feb 14 16:21:00 2001 f1EMKxe08478 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Richard,So you've never tied your whiskers to the fly yet, huh? Waaaait!Art At 06:51 PM 02/13/2001 -0800, Richard R. Dutcher wrote:There is always fly tying. No mistakes here, ha. Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis Haftel Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:26 PMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on my hand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was just wonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patches onmy mug! Later, Sticky from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 14 17:01:45 2001 f1EN1ie10262 0500 Subject: Re:hand plane advise This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0964B.3FFE06E0 Don't get me wrong guys. I made some of my toolsalso. However I like to stick to the rule of only making atool that functions and gives me the same results as oneI can buy(or a quality tool) If it doesn't, I make the sacrifice and buy =one.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0964B.3FFE06E0 Don't get me wrong guys. I made someof = toolsalso. However I like to stick to the = tool that functions and gives me the = as one Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C0964B.3FFE06E0-- from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Wed Feb 14 17:06:59 2001 f1EN6we10495 f1EN6rA09348 Subject: Hardy Flylines Hi Listfolk, I just received a case of Hardy Flylines that will be selling at thewholesale price and less. Please contact me off list for details. Regards, BobFly Supplieshttp://flysupplies.homepage.com/ from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 14 17:30:53 2001 f1ENUqe11169 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:30:44 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Medved beveler --------------7B5D17D777C321D37AE58E4A Greg,Tom,???? and all others interested,as promised I got a "spare"moment today so I popped off a few pictures of my beveller I built from AlMedved'sdesign(a great one at that). I made a few changes to mine and will furtherchange/touch up some things after I get these next dozen rods roughed.I have added a few notes on the pictures that will help anyone that isbuilding/thinking about building this tool.The pictures(8) and text total about 1 meg but shouldn't take too longtoreceive. They should help to answer some of the questions I once asked andsome ofthe ones I received from list members lately.Anyone interested just send me a note and I will send them to you off-line asI know some would not want me to waste the bandwidth. Shawn Oozakgpt@aol.com wrote: In process of building the Medved beveler and I have some benignquestions.#1Anyone on the list using it? #2 It calls for two trays and this is where Iget lost.One tray appears to be a square groove 3/8" x 3/8".The othertray isnaturally a 60 degree groove .How do you get a square spline to auntapered60 degree spline without cutting the 30 degree initial cut in the spline? #3Are the adjustment screw to set tray level and the lock screw to setminimumthickness always flush with the tray's? #4 Is there a depression in thetray's where the router bit exits to adjust spline thickness? TIA Greg T --------------7B5D17D777C321D37AE58E4A Greg,Tom,???? and all others interested, as promised I got a "spare" moment today so I popped off a few picturesof my beveller I built from Al Medved's design(a great one at that). Imade a few changes to mine and will further change/touch up some thingsafter I get these next dozen rods roughed. picturesthat will help anyone that is building/thinking about building this tool. about 1 meg but shouldn't take too long to receive. They should help toanswer some of the questions I once asked and some of the ones I received from list members lately. mea note and I will send them to you off-line as I know some would not wantme to waste the bandwidth. ShawnOozakgpt@aol.com wrote:Inprocess of building the Medved beveler and I have some benignquestions.#1Anyone Igetlost.One tray appears to be a square groove 3/8" x 3/8".The other trayisnaturallya 60 degree groove .How do you get a square spline to auntapered60 degree #3Arethe adjustment screw to set tray level and the lock screw to setminimumthicknessalways flush with the tray's? #4 Is there a depression inthetray'swhere the router bit exits to adjust spline thickness? TIA GregT --------------7B5D17D777C321D37AE58E4A-- from homessold@email.msn.com Wed Feb 14 17:40:33 2001 f1ENeWe11651 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:40:26 -0800 Subject: Re: hand plane advise FILETIME=[82B53140:01C096DF] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0969C.4A49F7C0 Shawn,Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers. I've made and use some of the tools =you have been so kind to share with the list and am grateful to you. It =was not my intention to infer that homemade tools were inferior. I'm in =the process of making my own Hand Mill because I can't justify the =expense of Tom's, which I would have in a heart beat if $ where no =object, for the number of rods I build. However, if it turns out to do a =quality job and easy to use -- success, if not, I've had fun trying and =back to the drawing board.Don Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 2:29 PMSubject: Re: hand plane advise not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth on =cheap homemade tools and still use some of them today. Sure, I would =love to go buy the best but sometimes cheap homemade tools aren't that = = Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality tools. There is no =such thing as a cheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out =to be expensive in the long run when you finally bite the bullet and buy =the tool you should have in the first place. Just wanting to build rods = from one of you but then I would have missed all of the fun. Now I enjoy = ----- Original Message -----From: Tony Miller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:32 PMSubject: Re: hand plane adviseKenYou know it always strikes me funny that we asrod makers want =people to shell out around a grandfor a fly rod, but we don't want to =pay $200 for a tool to help make that rod. LOL That's just a joke! I =went thru the samesituation. Once I received my new Tom Lie Nielsen =212scraper I knew that I had made the right choice as soon asI used it. =( no commercial interest in the company blah blah)I think his tools are =great and I plan to purchase more in the future. So I guess you know =what my recommendation is.I have heard of people using glass and hand =scrapers. Andwhile I'm sure they work and are economical. I can't =imaginehow much more work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be =the first time. But I liken the experience to usingbreathable waders or =wading wet. Both have same results,which do you prefer?Tony = ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0969C.4A49F7C0 Shawn,Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers. I've made and = the tools you have been so kind to share with the list and am grateful = It was not my intention to infer that homemade tools were inferior. I'm = process of making my own Hand Mill because I can't justify the expense = rods I build. However, if it turns out to do a quality job and easy to = success, if not, I've had fun trying and back to the drawing =board.Don ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo = Cc: flyfish@defnet.com ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Wednesday, February 14, = PMSubject: Re: hand plane =advise = not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth on cheap homemade = still use some of them today. Sure, I would love to go buy the best = = Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality = no such thing as a cheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool = be expensive in the long run when you finally bite the bullet and = tool you should have in the first place. Just wanting to build rods = myself, I would have been far better off financially buying rods = you but then I would have missed all of the fun. Now I enjoy = ----- Original Message ----- Miller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, = PM asrod makerswant = fly rod, but we don't want to pay $200 for a tool to help make = LOL That's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation. Once I received my new Tom = 212scraper Iknew = blah)I think his= great and I plan to purchase more in the future. So I guess you = heard of people using glass and hand scrapers. =Andwhile I'm sure they work and are = can't imaginehow = work it must be. I might be wrong here, wouldn't be the first = results,whichdo = Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0969C.4A49F7C0-- from Lazybee45@aol.com Wed Feb 14 17:43:18 2001 f1ENhHe11822 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/14/01 3:08:40 PM Central Standard Time, nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca writes: Hah! Yeah, I remember teaching a woodcarving class when I ran a #3 (3/8 inch) gouge through my left hand demonstrating how NOT to do relief carving!mark from harms1@pa.net Wed Feb 14 17:47:10 2001 f1ENl9e12164 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:47:07 -0500 Subject: Re: hand plane advise This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C096B6.54AFDE40 Ken, I don't know how one estimates what a tool is "worth" in terms of dollar =value. That's anybody guess. More to the point, would be to ask what's =the best tool available for a given job, off" the cane until you get a strip to within, say, .015" of its final =dimensions. Then spend your money on the little Lie-Nielson bronze =block plane (standard angle), and you will feel precision in your hands = Is it worth the money? Some guys would say "No, it just costs too much, =and I'm doing fine with my Stanley." That's ok for them, but I would =never hand plane another strip without that little Lie-Nielson to get me =to my finished dimensions. cheers, Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ Subject: hand plane advise My wife has given me a money toward a tool purchase for Valentines = would like to buy really nice hand plane. So, if you could afford = really high quality hand plan which one would it be? I already have a = nice Baily plan with a fixed throat and screw adjustable blade, I own = good quality hand scrapers and few standard block plans. I saw some = nice things in the Leigh Neilson catalog, including several planes = .005 groove just for flyrod makers. Are these tools really worth $250 = I am into rodmaking as a hobby, not a profession so I might want to = new tool for other woodworking projects as well. Any opinions would = welcome, Ken ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C096B6.54AFDE40 Ken, I don't know howone = the = Record planes are terrific for "hogging off" the cane until you get a = little Lie-Nielson bronze block plane (standard angle), and you will = Is it worth the = without = dimensions. cheers, =Bill -----------------------------------------------------Click = Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/----- Original = From: = Sent:Wednesday, = 2001 10:22 AMSubject: hand advise wife has given me a money toward a tool purchase for Valentines = I am into rodmaking as a hobby, not a profession so I might want to use = ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C096B6.54AFDE40-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Feb 14 17:49:09 2001 f1ENn8e12292 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: You know you're a rodmaker when... Oooooh, I've done that one with a chisel, you get a lot of blood from thatparticular accident. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/14/01 3:08:40 PM Central Standard Time, nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca writes: Hah! Yeah, I remember teaching a woodcarving class when I ran a #3 (3/8 inch) gouge through my left hand demonstrating how NOT to do relief carving!mark from dannyt@frisurf.no Wed Feb 14 17:52:45 2001 f1ENqie12575 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: hand plane advise Don, I have been thinking of trying to make my own as well. My only problem isI've neverseen it for real. Have You made any drawings/plans You would like to shear? Best regardsdanny from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 14 18:02:18 2001 f1F02He13149 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 20:01:59 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: hand plane advise --------------F981C8073855BF37B81C188B Don,Don't worry, no feathers ruffled here. I love fine tools as well as thenextguy and even folded under last week to buying a pro Nikon camera when myold Minoltaworkhorse would have done just fine. A good tool is a pleasure to own forsure. Ijust think that aspiring builders should know that there are inexpensiveoptionsavailable and they can turn out a really great rod using tools they madethemselves.i encourage people to build their own metal forms as it sets yourdetermination. Ilaugh every time someone hears how I built my forms and they say " oh no Idon't havethat kind of time and patience I just want to build a bamboo rod"No offense for those of you lucky enough to be able to buy all your toolsfromthe start,Shawn Don Schneider wrote: Shawn,Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers. I've made and use some of thetools youhave been so kind to share with the list and am grateful to you. It was notmyintention to infer that homemade tools were inferior. I'm in the process ofmakingmy own Hand Mill because I can't justify the expense of Tom's, which I wouldhavein a heart beat if $ where no object, for the number of rods I build.However, ifit turns out to do a quality job and easy to use -- success, if not, I've hadfuntrying and back to the drawing board.Don ----- Original Message -----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: flyfish@defnet.com ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 2:29 PMSubject: Re: hand plane adviseHmmmmm,not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth oncheap homemade tools and still use some of them today. Sure, I wouldloveto go buy the best but sometimes cheap homemade tools aren't thatbad.Just my opinion, ShawnDon Schneider wrote: Tony, You are absolutely correct about quality tools. There is no suchthing as a cheep inexpensive tool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out to beexpensive in the long run when you finally bite the bullet and buy thetool you should have in the first place. Just wanting to build rods formyself, I would have been far better off financially buying rods fromone of you but then I would have missed all of the fun. Now I enjoybuilding my rods and a few tomato stakes.Don ----- Original Message -----From: Tony Miller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 9:32 PMSubject: Re: hand plane adviseKenYou know it always strikes me funny that we asrod makerswant people to shell out around a grandfor a fly rod, but wedon't want to pay $200 for a tool to help make that rod. LOLThat's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation. Once Ireceived my new Tom Lie Nielsen 212scraper I knew that I hadmade the right choice as soon asI used it. ( no commercialinterest in the company blah blah)I think his tools are greatand I plan to purchase more in the future. So I guess youknow what my recommendation is.I have heard of people usingglass and hand scrapers. Andwhile I'm sure they work and areeconomical. I can't imaginehow much more work it must be. Imight be wrong here, wouldn't be the first time. But I likenthe experience to usingbreathable waders or wading wet. Bothhave same results,which do you prefer?TonyMillerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html --------------F981C8073855BF37B81C188B Don, feathersruffled here. I love fine tools as well as the next guy and even foldedunder last week to buying a pro Nikon camera when my old Minolta workhorsewould have done just fine. A good tool is a pleasure to own for sure. Ijust think that aspiring builders should know that there are inexpensiveoptions available and they can turn out a really great rod using toolsthey made themselves. i encourage people to build their own metal formsas it sets your determination. I laugh every time someone hears how I builtmy forms and they say " oh no I don't have that kind of time and patienceI just want to build a bamboo rod" be able to buy all your tools from the start, ShawnDon Schneider wrote: mean to ruffle your feathers. I've made and use some of the tools you havebeen so kind to share with the list and am grateful to you. It was notmy intention to infer that homemade tools were inferior. I'm in the processof making my own Hand Mill because I can't justify the expense of Tom's,which I would have in a heart beat if $ where no object, for the numberof rods I build. However, if it turns out to do a quality job and easyto use -- success, if not, I've had fun trying and back to the drawingboard.Don ----- Original Message ----- From:ShawnPineo Cc: flyfish@defnet.com; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 20012:29 PM Subject: Re: hand plane advise not necessarily true. I cut my rod building teeth on cheap homemade toolsand still use some of them today. Sure, I would love to go buy the bestbut sometimes cheap homemade tools aren't that bad. Just my opinion, ShawnDon Schneider wrote: Tony, You are absolutelycorrect about quality tools. There is no such thing as a cheep inexpensivetool. In MHO, a cheep tool turns out to be expensive in the long run whenyou finally bite the bullet and buy the tool you should have in the firstplace. Just wanting to build rods for myself, I would have been far betteroff financially buying rods from one of you but then I would have missedall of the fun. Now I enjoy building my rods and a few tomatostakes.Don ----- Original Message ----- From:TonyMiller Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 20019:32PM Subject: Re: hand plane advise funny that we asrod makers want people to shell out around a grandfor afly rod, but we don't want to pay $200 for a tool to help make that rod.LOL That's just a joke! I went thru the samesituation. Once I receivedmy new Tom Lie Nielsen 212scraper I knew that I had made the right choiceas soon asI used it. ( no commercial interest in the company blah blah)Ithink his tools are great and I plan to purchase more in the future. SoI guess you know what my recommendation is.I have heard of people usingglass and hand scrapers. Andwhile I'm sure they work and are economical.I can't imaginehow much more work it must be. I might be wrong here,wouldn'tbe the first time. But I liken the experience to usingbreathable wadersor wading wet. Both have same results,which do you prefer?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html --------------F981C8073855BF37B81C188B-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Feb 14 18:36:20 2001 f1F0aJe14350 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 16:36:06 -0800 Subject: Re: My little gripe Hi Shawn,I'm anything but an expert here, but the gripe is many sided.First, slow dial-up connections and ISP's. I'd love to have a cableconnection, butthere is no such thing in these parts. And I'm not convinced of the viabilityofsatellite connections, not to mention their high cost. Second, html goes beserk on my laptop monitor at 800x600. Someone onthe list uses alight blue font. I can never read those message. Others tend to use coloredorpatterned backgrounds. Those tend to lock up my Netscape 4.76, Windows98, 400mhzToshiba laptop. Finally, the html makes every message much larger, and increases thedownload timeconsiderably. I'm on several list-serv's and manage to get about 250 emailseach day.Everything from bamboo rods to post modern, neo-orthodox theology isfunneled through thesame ISP. Most messages go directly in the trash. But most lists stronglydiscouragehtml, for some of the same reasons I've cited above. Again, I don't mean to be a curmudgeon about this. I'm just asking that webeconsiderate of one another and follow some fairly widespread, thoughcertainly notuniversal, list-serv guidelines. Either that, or I was just having a bad day when I started this thread. Happy Valentine's Day,Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: What I'm not sure of is why some peoples computers can't accept HTML.Is it a matter of settings ,older computers or slower ISPs ???Shawn from Canerods@aol.com Wed Feb 14 18:44:26 2001 f1F0hre14708 Subject: Re: Shakespeare1231 --part1_64.b4182e1.27bc8021_boundary In a message dated 2/14/01 1:33:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, dr.matro@airmail.net writes: Good afternoon, list I'm in need of wrap info on a Shakespeare 1231 New Gypsy. No, Sinclairdoesn't list it. Spurr's never heard of it. Huff doesn't have a clue,either. This is a rod taken in for repairs and not something on anauction board. TIA Ken Cole Ken, What colors are on it now? I'd start with matching what's on it now, unless you suspect that it's had a rewrap job in the past. If it's rewrapped, then I'd try to figure out which manufacturer Shakespeare used to built it then find a Gypsy of the same time period/manufacturer and match it. Don Burns --part1_64.b4182e1.27bc8021_boundary In a message dated2/14/01 1:33:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, dr.matro@airmail.net writes: Good afternoon, list I'm in need of wrap info on a Shakespeare 1231 New Gypsy. No, Sinclairdoesn't list it. Spurr's never heard of it. Huff doesn't have a clue,either. This is a rod taken in for repairs and not something on anauction board. TIA Ken Cole Ken, What colors are on it now? I'd start with matching what's on it now,unless you suspect that it's had a rewrap job in the past. If it's rewrapped,then I'd try to figure out which manufacturer Shakespeare used to built itthen find a Gypsy of the same time period/manufacturer and match it. Don Burns --part1_64.b4182e1.27bc8021_boundary-- from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Feb 14 19:19:42 2001 f1F1Jfe15461 0600 Subject: Bob Maulucci Bob,My reply to you 5 days ago just came back as "undeliverable"Can you get back to me.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from rcurry@ttlc.net Wed Feb 14 20:26:27 2001 f1F2QQe17686 Subject: Stanley 12 1/2 deemed life-threatening All,I've stubbed my toe for the last time on a Stanley 12 1/2 scraperplane in my den. I'm not doing large scale woodworking anymore, so ifanyone wants to trade some flies, ferrules, etc. for this, pleasecontact me offline. [The 12 1/2 is a pull scraper with a cast frame androsewood handles and sole.]I hope no one considers this commercial.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 20:30:57 2001 f1F2Uue17901 (62.188.150.17) Subject: Planes quadrates et al This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007A_01C096F7.63EDEF00 My first rod of rent bambooThe story so far. Having read Bruce's article it all sounded so simple, =compared to building a hex planning form. So in I dived. First project, =a 3=BD' tip section for an old 'Spanish reed' bottom rod, simple linear =taper. Having carefully planned the corner of a nice bit of ash, I then =set about trying this method out with some bits of 'Burma Cane' . =Whether it was just beginners luck, or what, out of a dozen attempts I =managed to create four usable bits. These are now 'in the string' =curing. How it will work in the rod is an matter. I'll let you all =know.I do intend to build a hex planning form, now I've fathomed out the =plans. As for blades, its of to the ironmongers later for a couple of new =Stanley's. ------=_NextPart_000_007A_01C096F7.63EDEF00 My first rod of rent bamboo dived. First project, a 3=BD' tip section for an old 'Spanish reed' = you all know.I do intend to build a hex planning form, now I've = out the plans. As for blades, its of to the ironmongers later for a = new Stanley's. ------=_NextPart_000_007A_01C096F7.63EDEF00-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 20:30:58 2001 f1F2Uve17905 (62.188.150.17) Subject: Re: Blades for planes , books You're right about the Garrison book, a very worthy tome indeed. It readssomewhat like a post graduate thesis. I'm glad you recommend theCattanachbook as I've ordered this from my local bookshop. At present I have RichardWalkers Rod building for amateurs (found in a junk shop for 50p!!!) and abook by Lawton Moss. I've given the people at the bookshop a list and theyare seeing what the can get, at reasonable prices. Ten rods for a fiver sounds like a pretty reasonable deal to me. I'm of tothe ironmongers later to replace the blades I have, although they hone upwell they just won't keep their edge. SteVeYork ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Blades for planes The options are either import or use the standard Stanley blades,sharpen regularly, regrind after a couple of rods ( assuming the planehas been well tuned ) and replace after say 10 rods ( if your lucky ).The cost for a Stanley planing iron is about £5 so replacement won'tbreak the bank.........PaulPoint of note; from your postings to the list I see that you are a beginner.I assumeyou have some good books e.g Cattanach ( forget the Garrisonbook.....you would never build a rod first time from that one )or RayGould etc.If you haven't then invest in one.I also see that you fancy building a Quad using Bruce Conners method.Myrecommendation would be forget it......buy or make a planing form for aHex and progress with a good book........best regards.......Paul SteVe Cook wrote: What's the viable alternative? SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: "paul.blakley" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:48 PMSubject: Re: Blades for planes Steve,You can't get them here !What you have to do is import from the States...but note the cost ofairmail plus customs duty can for some people make this ratherexpensive.........Paul SteVe Cook wrote: Enough of this frivolity, down to some serous stuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for cane planning, lesserbladeswon't keep their edge for long, as I have found out. So whosuppliesthem in England. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all I get arerather earnest articles about poverty. CheersSteVe from iank@ts.co.nz Wed Feb 14 20:38:15 2001 f1F2cDe18430 2001 19:53:38 +1300 Subject: Fw: Virus worm to be aware of ---Urgent This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C095F6.801001C0 This may be of interest to you guys. I have received it twice already = The dangerous thing is that it will come from someone you know with a =message "this may be of interest to you" or " check this:)" or " here = regards and be careful Subject: Virus worm to be aware of A mass-mailing virus masquerading as a picture of international tennis =star Anna Kournikova is spreading rapidly around the Internet. Within a =few hours of discovery, it has already infected thousands of computers =in both the U.S. and the U.K., and infection rates were growing = The email carrying the virus arrives with the subject line: "Here you =have, ;o)". The message body reads "Hi: Check this!" and the infected =attachment is named "AnnaK! ournikova.jpg.vbs". Due to the nature of =such email-borne viruses, the email will be received from someone you =know. Other variants may follow, with different subject lines, message =bodies, or attachment names. As often occurs, the virus name differs =among vendors. Following are the most common aliases: "Anna Kournikova", ="Onthefly", "SST", "I-Worm.Lee.o", "VBS/SST, "VBS/Anna", "VBS/Kalamar", = According to reports from MessageLabs, an ISP service provider in the =UK, nearly 4,500 copies have already been detected by their facility, =and detection rates are growing exponentially. The virus spread is being = http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/vbs.sst@mm.html regardsPeter, Diana and Ben ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C095F6.801001C0 This may be of interest to you guys. I = The dangerous thing is that it will = :)" and similar short cheerful notes.= regards and be careful Ian From: Kearney Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 1:11 PMSubject: Virus worm to be aware of mass-mailing virus masquerading as a picture of international tennis = Kournikova is spreading rapidly around the Internet. Within a few hours = discovery, it has already infected thousands of computers in both the = the U.K., and infection rates were growing exponentially, according to =MSNBC news reports and MessageLabs Inc The email carrying the virus arrives with the subject line: = have, ;o)". The message body reads "Hi: Check this!" and the infected = is named "AnnaK! ournikova.jpg.vbs". Due to the nature of such = viruses, the email will be received from someone you know. Other = follow, with different subject lines, message bodies, or attachment = often occurs, the virus name differs among vendors. Following are the = common aliases: "Anna Kournikova", "Onthefly", "SST", "I-Worm.Lee.o", = "VBS/Anna", "VBS/Kalamar", "VBS/VBSWG.J", and "VBS_Kalamar.a". = to reports from MessageLabs, an ISP service provider in the UK, nearly = copies have already been detected by their facility, and detection rates = LoveLetter virus. Further details at http:=//www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/vbs.sst@mm.htmlr= Diana and Ben ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C095F6.801001C0-- from homessold@email.msn.com Wed Feb 14 20:47:54 2001 f1F2lre19006 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:47:49 -0800 Subject: Re: hand plane advise FILETIME=[AF807B70:01C096F9] Danny,I've never seen Tom's Hand Mill and I don't have any plans/drawing of whatI've been doing for the past year. This has been a design as you go thing.If you look at my email address you will understand why I don't have muchtime to devote to this project. I get about one day a week to play withbuilding flyrods, fly fishing, etc. Basically I designed and built two planes that hold two 60 degree lathe bitsmounted side by side and plane cutting depth adjustable up and down. Thereason for two planes, one for tips, smaller bits & one for butts, largerbits. The part of the plane that hold the bits pivots inside one end of theplane body, the other end has the depth adjustment screw. The sides of the plane straddle the adjustable up & down base, adjustableevery 5", that the bamboo rests on. This base rides in a square grove in thelower base, which is anchored to my bench top, to add support so that theadjustable part doesn't twist. Biggest problems I've had is anchoring the bamboo on one end and not takingto large a cut. The bamboo seems to self align as it passes through the bitsas long as you plane away from the anchor, other direction makes great firestarting wood. As long as you take your time, it makes perfect 60's. I'm planning on stopping by to see Tom this summer and will probably orderthe real thing. Don ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: hand plane advise Don, I have been thinking of trying to make my own as well. My only problem isI've neverseen it for real. Have You made any drawings/plans You would like toshear? Best regardsdanny from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 20:53:12 2001 f1F2rBe19303 (62.188.150.17) Subject: Re: My little gripe I'm defiantly not an expert on matters relating to HTML (I've only had thecomputer 6 weeks and still on a training course). But since sticking toplain text may earlier problems have vanished, strange colours/fonts,e- mails going to wrong addresses etc.I think I caused a bit of havoc to thelist around this time, for which I apologize. Others on the course tell methe same thing. Despite interrogating help lines, suppliers the only answerswe get are along the lines of 'it can't do that', It must be some you'redoing'. The only common thing we all have is we use dialup modems and thesecan drop to pitiful speeds (a download the other day dropped to 468B/s, NOTKB--B . It was going to take 7h 36min). so its plain text for me from here on in, know doubt fix will turn up oneday. But I can't help thinking the phone system is going to fall apart inthe same way he railways did. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Hi Shawn,I'm anything but an expert here, but the gripe is many sided.First, slow dial-up connections and ISP's. I'd love to have a cableconnection, butthere is no such thing in these parts. And I'm not convinced of theviability ofsatellite connections, not to mention their high cost. Second, html goes beserk on my laptop monitor at 800x600. Someoneonthe list uses alight blue font. I can never read those message. Others tend to usecolored orpatterned backgrounds. Those tend to lock up my Netscape 4.76, Windows98, 400mhzToshiba laptop. Finally, the html makes every message much larger, and increases thedownload timeconsiderably. I'm on several list-serv's and manage to get about 250emails each day.Everything from bamboo rods to post modern, neo-orthodox theology isfunneled through thesame ISP. Most messages go directly in the trash. But most listsstrongly discouragehtml, for some of the same reasons I've cited above. Again, I don't mean to be a curmudgeon about this. I'm just askingthat we beconsiderate of one another and follow some fairly widespread, thoughcertainly notuniversal, list-serv guidelines. Either that, or I was just having a bad day when I started thisthread. Happy Valentine's Day,Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: What I'm not sure of is why some peoples computers can't accept HTML.Is it a matter of settings ,older computers or slower ISPs ???Shawn from ctn45555@centurytel.net Wed Feb 14 21:25:04 2001 f1F3P3e20271 Organization: Smith & Boyd Subject: Re: hand plane advise --------------1FB704982F20FAF909FBF3F6 Ken: I've got a Stanley G12 and a Lie-Nielson block plane. Both work justfine. However, when you get down to the last few plane strokes, takingoff very small amounts of material, the Lie-Nielson really comes intoit's own and does a great job of taking the strip down to the form. Thatsaid, the G12 and a handmade scraper would likely accomplish the samething for less money. Also keep in mind that less expensive planesbecome less inexpensive if you have to buy replacement blades for them.The LN comes with a very good blade right out of the box. Good Luck, Chad S. Boyd Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/----- Original Message -----From: Wednesday,February 14, 2001 10:22 AMSubject: hand plane advise > My wife hasgiven me a money toward a tool purchase for Valentines Day! Iwould like to buy really nice hand plane. So, if you could affordonly onereally high quality hand plan which one would it be? I already havea fairlynice Baily plan with a fixed throat and screw adjustable blade, Iown severalgood quality hand scrapers and few standard block plans. I saw someverynice things in the Leigh Neilson catalog, including several planesthat had a.005 groove just for flyrod makers. Are these tools really worth$250 plus?I am into rodmaking as a hobby, not a profession so I might want touse thisnew tool for other woodworking projects as well. Any opinions wouldbewelcome, Ken --------------1FB704982F20FAF909FBF3F6 Ken:I've got a Stanley G12 and a Lie-Nielson block plane. Both work justfine. However, when you get down to the last few plane strokes, takingoff very small amounts of material, the Lie-Nielson really comes into it'sown and does a great job of taking the strip down to the form. That said,the G12 and a handmade scraper would likely accomplish the same thing forless money. Also keep in mind that less expensive planes become lessinexpensiveif you have to buy replacement blades for them. The LN comes with a verygood blade right out of the box.Good Luck,Chad S. Boyd Click here for FreeVideo!!http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/-----Original Message -----From: <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu>Sent:Wednesday, February 14, 2001 10:22 AMSubject: My wife has given me a money toward a tool purchase for Valentines Iwould like to buyreally really high qualityhand nice Baily plan witha fixed throat and screw adjustable blade, I own severalgood quality handscrapers nice things in theLeighNeilson catalog, including several planes that had a.005 groove just for plus?I am into rodmakingasa hobby, not a profession so I might want to use thisnew tool for otherwoodworking welcome,Ken --------------1FB704982F20FAF909FBF3F6-- from dickay@alltel.net Wed Feb 14 21:26:25 2001 f1F3QKe20420 srv.alltel.net Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:26:21 -0600 Subject: Re: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C096CC.504703E0 Guys, Remember, Harry was talking about a 1 RPM Synchronus 110V motor. =This is the type of small gear motor used for displays in stores and =such. Very similar to a clock motor. I scrounge them from humidifiers. =You would barely notice its weight sitting in your hand if your are = A motor with a start capacitor usually has some type of switch =arrangement within the motor to disconnect the capacitor after the =motor gets up to speed. On some motors this is done externally with a =special relay. I have had to specify these components when I worked for = Harry's best bet is to stop it by hand and give it a turn in the right =direction.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C096CC.504703E0 = A motor with a start capacitor usually has some type= Harry's best bet is to stop it by hand and give it a = the right direction.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C096CC.504703E0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 21:28:48 2001 f1F3Sle20640 (62.188.150.17) "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Blades for planes , books Unfortunately this one got away be fore I could add the following:- What books do the list think are essential reading for somebody new tobamboo rod building Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Blades for planes , books You're right about the Garrison book, a very worthy tome indeed. It readssomewhat like a post graduate thesis. I'm glad you recommend theCattanachbook as I've ordered this from my local bookshop. At present I haveRichardWalkers Rod building for amateurs (found in a junk shop for 50p!!!) and abook by Lawton Moss. I've given the people at the bookshop a list andtheyare seeing what the can get, at reasonable prices. Ten rods for a fiver sounds like a pretty reasonable deal to me. I'm oftothe ironmongers later to replace the blades I have, although they hone upwell they just won't keep their edge. SteVeYork ----- Original Message -----From: "paul.blakley" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 10:03 PMSubject: Re: Blades for planes The options are either import or use the standard Stanley blades,sharpen regularly, regrind after a couple of rods ( assuming the planehas been well tuned ) and replace after say 10 rods ( if your lucky ).The cost for a Stanley planing iron is about £5 so replacement won'tbreak the bank.........PaulPoint of note; from your postings to the list I see that you are a beginner.I assumeyou have some good books e.g Cattanach ( forget the Garrisonbook.....you would never build a rod first time from that one )or RayGould etc.If you haven't then invest in one.I also see that you fancy building a Quad using Bruce Conners method.Myrecommendation would be forget it......buy or make a planing form for aHex and progress with a good book........best regards.......Paul SteVe Cook wrote: What's the viable alternative? SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: "paul.blakley" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 4:48 PMSubject: Re: Blades for planes Steve,You can't get them here !What you have to do is import from the States...but note the cost ofairmail plus customs duty can for some people make this ratherexpensive.........Paul SteVe Cook wrote: Enough of this frivolity, down to some serous stuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for cane planning, lesserbladeswon't keep their edge for long, as I have found out. So whosuppliesthem in England. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all I getarerather earnest articles about poverty. CheersSteVe from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Wed Feb 14 21:56:32 2001 f1F3uQe21429 (62.188.150.17) Subject: Re: Wiring Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C09703.8B7E9A40 you're right. I've reread the original thread. for some reason I thought =it was some thundering great thing. i have one from an old kitchen =clock. It has a check pawl inthe gear box which means it always starts =in the right direction, although it might be to provide the 'tick-tock' =noise. Sorry if I sent anybody on a wild goose chase. Cheers, SteVe Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 3:23 AMSubject: Re: Wiring Question Guys, Remember, Harry was talking about a 1 RPM Synchronus 110V =motor. This is the type of small gear motor used for displays in stores =and such. Very similar to a clock motor. I scrounge them from =humidifiers. You would barely notice its weight sitting in your hand if = A motor with a start capacitor usually has some type of switch =arrangement within the motor to disconnect the capacitor after the =motor gets up to speed. On some motors this is done externally with a =special relay. I have had to specify these components when I worked for = Harry's best bet is to stop it by hand and give it a turn in the right =direction.Dick Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C09703.8B7E9A40 you're right. I've reread the original thread. for = starts in the right direction, although it might be to provide the = Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Dick = Fuhrman ; Canerods@aol.com ; fbcwin@3g.quik.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Thursday, February 15, = AMSubject: Re: Wiring =Question = A motor with a start capacitor usually has some = Harry's best bet is to stop it by hand and give it = the right direction.Dick =Fuhrman ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C09703.8B7E9A40-- from trippma@mindspring.com Thu Feb 15 00:01:59 2001 f1F61xe24018 Subject: Re: My little gripe Don't know about older versions of Outlook Express, but the new versionallows you to set up text or html preferences for each entry in your addressbook. It also allows you to change those settings "on the fly" as it were, from the Format menu. -Mark ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Hi Shawn,I'm anything but an expert here, but the gripe is many sided.First, slow dial-up connections and ISP's. I'd love to have a cableconnection, butthere is no such thing in these parts. And I'm not convinced of theviability ofsatellite connections, not to mention their high cost. Second, html goes beserk on my laptop monitor at 800x600. Someoneonthe list uses alight blue font. I can never read those message. Others tend to usecolored orpatterned backgrounds. Those tend to lock up my Netscape 4.76, Windows98, 400mhzToshiba laptop. Finally, the html makes every message much larger, and increases thedownload timeconsiderably. I'm on several list-serv's and manage to get about 250emails each day.Everything from bamboo rods to post modern, neo-orthodox theology isfunneled through thesame ISP. Most messages go directly in the trash. But most listsstrongly discouragehtml, for some of the same reasons I've cited above. Again, I don't mean to be a curmudgeon about this. I'm just askingthat we beconsiderate of one another and follow some fairly widespread, thoughcertainly notuniversal, list-serv guidelines. Either that, or I was just having a bad day when I started thisthread. Happy Valentine's Day,Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: What I'm not sure of is why some peoples computers can't accept HTML.Is it a matter of settings ,older computers or slower ISPs ???Shawn from dannyt@frisurf.no Thu Feb 15 01:09:20 2001 f1F79Je25766 +0100 +0100 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; WinNT4.0; en-US; m18)Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? Are You guys pulling a leg here, or is it aPara11???If so we have to get Martin to chase down that taper danny from dutcher@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 01:20:28 2001 f1F7KRe26091 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:20:23 -0800 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... ----- Original Message -----From: Lazybee45@aol.com Cc: Lazybee45@aol.com ; stuart.rod@gmx.de ;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 3:42 PMSubject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/14/01 3:08:40 PM Central Standard Time,nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca writes: Hah! Yeah, I remember teaching a woodcarving class when I ran a #3 (3/8inch) gouge through my left hand demonstrating how NOT to do reliefcarving!mark Did you get the point across? Sorry, I'm just a sick S.O.B andcouldn't resist. Regards,Dick from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 15 04:21:23 2001 f1FALMe27826 Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:11:29 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Bob Maulucci Guys:If anyone else is having trouble getting me please let me know. I am sorry. My ISP change a month ago is still showing some effects. Sorry, Harry, but the cable modem was worth it. You would like it. My info is below.Best regards,BobBob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 15 07:54:42 2001 f1FDsae02029 hme0.telusplanet.net Subject: Worm Virus - Question for Computer Guru's Guys/Gals, I've been infected twice over the past week with a worm virus. I don'tthink it came from Rodmakers but of more interest, I want not to past italong. Occasionally I create documents in Word and as I understand the problem,the worm can reside in Word. The question is whether I can right click,highlight the required text and paste to a email without passing along thevirus.Please some help here. Thanx, Don> from eamlee@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 07:56:42 2001 f1FDufe02238 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 05:56:37 -0800 Subject: unsubscribe FILETIME=[1D768770:01C09757] please unsubscribe from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 08:25:47 2001 f1FEPje03342 (62.188.19.37) Subject: Re: Planes quadrates et al I had to attempt this method to just to find out for myself. It's notsomething I will be repeating in a hurry. Apart from which, the hex form isaesthetically more pleasing. So, it's out to the shed with my new blades toget a bit farther with my planning form.thanks for your interst Cheers,SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Planes quadrates et al Steve,The planing form ( adjustable taper )for a Quad is a very ,veryspecialised form indeed and although the quad uses fewer strips than ahex it is far ,far harder to make .I reitterate my previous comments........stick with a Hex for your firstrods........Paul from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 08:25:48 2001 f1FEPme03347 (62.188.19.37) Subject: Re: Blades for planes , books Thanks RayThe has been ordered The story was told to me by a dubius old rascal who seemed to havecrammedtwoo hundred years into his ninety one if he is to be believd. I have lotsmore, I'm saving them for my own web. which should be up and running in thenext couple of weeks. Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Blades for planes , books Hi Steve,I enjoyed your apocryphal story about making splines! As to what books toread I'll be the first to admit you should have a look at the one I wrotetitled: "Constructing Cane Rods: Secrets of the Bamboo Fly Rod". There'slots of drawings and photographs to help you get started and a goodsectionon taper design. Let me know if I can be of any help.Ray Gould---- - Original Message -----From: "SteVe Cook" "Rodmakers" Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:30 PMSubject: Re: Blades for planes , books Unfortunately this one got away be fore I could add the following:- What books do the list think are essential reading for somebody new tobamboo rod building Cheers, SteVe CheersSteVe from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 08:25:54 2001 f1FEPge03340 (62.188.19.37) Subject: UV and varnish This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09756.8D3ADA80 Good morning U.S.A. I've just spent an interesting morning at the ironmongers. According to =their coverings and treatments expert, the majority of varnishes benefit = from UV and also need light to cure well, he doesn't recommend leaving =things to dry overnight as the varnish doesn't harden as much. Having =mentioned the drying cabinet/light box we had a trip to the lighting =dept. The spec sheets for various bulbs and tubes were examined and =where mentioned the do indeed emit some UV(I stand corrected on this =one), quite what the numbers mean in comparison to normal; daylight we =didn't know. He therefore thought the drying cabinet would be very =beneficial. He didn't, however, think the addition of a 'black =light'/UV tube (of the type used in night clubs/discos) would confer any =additional benefits. Sorry if I'm repeating what you already know, but = Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09756.8D3ADA80 Good morning U.S.A. majority of varnishes benefit from UV and also need light to cure well, = doesn't recommend leaving things to dry overnight as the varnish doesn't = examined and where mentioned the do indeed emit some UV(I stand = tube (of the type used in night clubs/discos) would confer any = it does account for some of the problems i had in the past. Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09756.8D3ADA80-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 08:51:29 2001 f1FEpRe04876 (62.188.19.37) Subject: Re: Worm Virus - Question for Computer Guru's If a virus/worm wants to leave your system it will. The only cure is to getrid.If you follow this link http://antivirus.cai.com/ you will find some FREEsoftware ( the supplier is Computer Associates, a very reputable outfit)that will do the trick I know from personal experience. I don't know whoposted it originally, but, thank you whoever it was.----- Original Message ----- Subject: Worm Virus - Question for Computer Guru's Guys/Gals, I've been infected twice over the past week with a worm virus. I don'tthink it came from Rodmakers but of more interest, I want not to past italong.Occasionally I create documents in Word and as I understand the problem,the worm can reside in Word. The question is whether I can right click,highlight the required text and paste to a email without passing along thevirus.Please some help here. Thanx, Don from dorothyt51@home.com Thu Feb 15 09:03:56 2001 f1FF3se05552 femail13.sdc1.sfba.home.com ;Thu, 15 Feb 2001 07:03:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Blades for planes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0971D.0A0947C0 Do you have someone who supplies Lie Nielsen planes in the UK? Use both =Hock and LN irons, personal preference is the LN iron. Later, Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:43 AMSubject: Blades for planes Enough of this frivolity, down to some serous stuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for cane planning, lesser blades =won't keep their edge for long, as I have found out. So who supplies =them in England. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all I get are =rather earnest articles about poverty. SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0971D.0A0947C0 Do you have someone who supplies Lie = iron. Later, ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Wednesday, February 14, = AMSubject: Blades for =planes stuff. lesser blades won't keep their edge for long, as I have found = get are rather earnest articles about poverty. Cheers SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C0971D.0A0947C0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 09:29:52 2001 f1FFTpe07034 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 09:27:06 -0600 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? I posted the PHY Para #11 last year, so it should be in the archives. It's a9.5' bass bugging rod, but should do well on steelhead, salmon and such,using a WF-8 line. I bought this rod from Paul in 1953.GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Feb 15 09:58:15 2001 f1FFw8e08507 2001 07:58:10 PST Subject: Re: Blades for planes request the A2 blades from LN. timothy --- Dorothy Teeple wrote:Do you have someone who supplies Lie Nielsen planesin the UK? Use both Hock and LN irons, personalpreference is the LN iron. Later,Leroy....... ----- Original Message ----- From: SteVe Cook Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 7:43 AMSubject: Blades for planes Enough of this frivolity, down to some serousstuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for caneplanning, lesser blades won't keep their edge forlong, as I have found out. So who supplies them inEngland. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all Iget are rather earnest articles about poverty. Cheers SteVe ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from saweiss@flash.net Thu Feb 15 10:16:19 2001 f1FGGJe09317 f1FGGEG239790 Subject: Re: UV and varnish This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0972F.F8004C00 Check the archives. You will find some helpful info ondrying =cabinets,UV, lights, and curing varnishes.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0972F.F8004C00 Check the archives. You will find some helpful info = cabinets,UV, lights, and curing varnishes.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0972F.F8004C00-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Feb 15 10:33:11 2001 f1FGXAe10468 2001 08:33:06 PST Subject: para 11 this is copied from the archives. timothy Subject: Re: PHY Parabolic #11 O.K., here are the dimensions for the Paul H, Young#11 parabolic 3 - =pc. rod, at 9'-4". Measurements are taken from thebare cane at the tip =top, in the noted measurements. Note that from the 35"mark, to the 37" =mark, this is the distance from 35", to the edge ofthe tip male ferrule =serration. I gave this dimension, because it's wherethe cane enters the =ferrule. However, the 41.5" mark is taken from the 35"mark, in a 6.5' =jump. this is due to the whole ferrule, and a guidepreventing a =measurement at 5" increments. Tip top =3D .08405" =3D .0914 (5")5" =3D .1143 (10")5" =3D .1347 (15")5" =3D .1523 (20")5" =3D .1631 (25")5" =3D .1854 (30")5" =3D .2123 (35")2" =3D .2221 (37") (at end of serrations of male, tipferrule)****6.5" =3D .2120 (41.5")3.5" =3D .2199 (45")6" =3D .2428 (51")6" =3D ..2560 (57")6" =3D .2704 (63")5" =3D .2793 (68")5" =3D .3002 (73")6" =3D .3203 (79")6.5" =3D .3231 (85.5")5" =3D .3506 (90.5")5" =3D ..3625 (100.5")5" =3D ..3625 (105.5") *** Note: This dimension bothers me, and I willre-check. I checked =again this morning, and they are accurate ! GMA I forgot to add that the grip to end of the reel seatis = long, and there is no winding check. ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 10:50:37 2001 f1FGoVe11217 (62.188.150.56) Subject: Re: UV and varnish This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0976F.B224E3E0 I'm working my way through them, and like all the best information is =somewaht contradictory and confusing. But there agins so's life. =Somebody with a little time and effort could turn them into a very =interesting book.....Thinking about..... i'm sure I've seen somthing =about this somewhere.... will check on that Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 4:16 PMSubject: Re: UV and varnish Check the archives. You will find some helpful info ondrying =cabinets,UV, lights, and curing varnishes.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0976F.B224E3E0 I'm working my way through them, and like all the = interesting book.....Thinking about..... i'm sure I've seen somthing = somewhere.... will check on that ----- Original Message ----- Steven = Sent: Thursday, February 15, = PMSubject: Re: UV and =varnish Check the archives. You will find some helpful = cabinets,UV, lights, and curing varnishes.Steve ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C0976F.B224E3E0-- from rextutor@about.com Thu Feb 15 12:21:37 2001 f1FILae15011 (NPlex 5.1.050) Subject: Slow Motors I was looking for a motor to build a powerwrapper and found a better They don't have a minimum order so a group order is not required. I think they might fit your needs , too,find the motors at http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18.Rex Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 13:50:29 2001 f1FJoSe17732 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 13:47:47 -0600 Subject: Re: para 11 Thanks Tim for putting the Para #11 on the list. I just noticed an error, inthat the 6.5' dimension at the tip ferrule, should read 6.5". I know many covet only short rods, but this was my first PHY, and I stilllove to cast and fish it ! It is pure simple pleasure to double haul andshoot a bug with so little effort. GMA from stuart.rod@gmx.de Thu Feb 15 15:10:42 2001 f1FLAfe21039 Subject: Re: para 11 Hi everybody, Speaking of double hauling, I have a friend (graphite user at the moment) whodouble hauls all his casts for some reason, it seems to suit him so that'sfine,but I was wondering if there is a taper that is recommended by those of youwhodo double haul (I don't have to in the river I fish in) on a regular basis andthat is suited to this type of casting. Does double hauling place more stressona rod than normal casting does? Stuart nobler wrote: Thanks Tim for putting the Para #11 on the list. I just noticed an error, inthat the 6.5' dimension at the tip ferrule, should read 6.5". I know many covet only short rods, but this was my first PHY, and I stilllove to cast and fish it ! It is pure simple pleasure to double haul andshoot a bug with so little effort. GMA from ewp42@yahoo.com Thu Feb 15 15:19:28 2001 f1FLJRe21446 2001 13:19:25 PST Subject: Re: para 11 Depends on how he does his hauling. If he has a long casting strokeand a smooth haul, a para taper would be lovely. OTOH, most grpahiteusers have fallen into the short stroke-quick haul mode because of thespeed of those rods. Dunno what direction I'd recommend in bamboo forthat type of stroke. Eric __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Feb 15 15:59:22 2001 f1FLxLe23138 2001 13:59:20 PST Subject: Re: para 11 stuart, double-hauling is a line manipulationtechnique that is not only used to to send your linecareening over 100 feet but also used to fine tuneyour cast mid-air to place the fly on the mark, pickupa nymph from under the water and into a good backcast, load a fast taper to a short accurate cast andsetup and shoot a roll cast to a hard to reach spot onthe river. i suppose i haul most casts muself. itbecomes second nature but like patting your head andrubbing your belly until you learn. ...upward and onward! timothy --- stuart moultrie wrote:Hi everybody, Speaking of double hauling, I have a friend(graphite user at the moment) whodouble hauls all his casts for some reason, it seemsto suit him so that's fine,but I was wondering if there is a taper that isrecommended by those of you whodo double haul (I don't have to in the river I fishin) on a regular basis andthat is suited to this type of casting. Does doublehauling place more stress ona rod than normal casting does? Stuart nobler wrote: Thanks Tim for putting the Para #11 on the list. Ijust noticed an error, inthat the 6.5' dimension at the tip ferrule, shouldread 6.5". I know many covet only short rods, but this was myfirst PHY, and I stilllove to cast and fish it ! It is pure simplepleasure to double haul andshoot a bug with so little effort. GMA ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 16:13:17 2001 f1FMDCe23807 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:10:31 -0600 Subject: Re: para 11 It doesn't seem to, if it's not a bad over load. All my PHY's are stillperfectly straight ! I have on rare occasions double hauled with my Midge ! GMA from stpete@netten.net Thu Feb 15 16:57:59 2001 f1FMvwe25961 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:01:00 -0600 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Ouch!! &*$^!!! Are you aware that you can locate minute cuts and knicks in your hand withmany solvents such as acetone or denatured alcohol? Yes, you can. Rick k5vkq@ix.netcom.com wrote: Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgetting that it's"reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sitting andworking between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways one time. Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time,stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jet instantglue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yet anothercrazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezing thebottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensiveBeerlocker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to work onsome small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home from thestoreto help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hard Itried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after she stoppedlaughing!mark from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 15 17:24:05 2001 f1FNO4e26759 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Beveller pictures on my Eboard page Hi all,since there were so many requests for these pictures I posted them tomy EBoard page (you know the one with the scary pictures of the scary Frankentools!)Sorry for the size/quality, I am sooooo busy but I wanted to get thoseoutto you because I know some are building right now and I hope these help out. Iwillfix things up when I get a spare moment (does that ever happen here???)P.S don't be scared to browse around I added something else you may beinterestedin ;^)Once again sorry for the horrid pictures of the Franken tools (theyweretaken before I was a Photographer with my web cam, I will fix them up soonaspossible,Shawn from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 15 17:31:17 2001 f1FNV7e27106 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:29:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Beveller pictures on my Eboard page Shawn:What is the URL for the site?Thanks,Bob At 07:26 PM 2/15/2001 -0500, Shawn Pineo wrote:Hi all,since there were so many requests for these pictures I posted them to my EBoard page (you know the one with the scary pictures of the scary Franken tools!)Sorry for the size/quality, I am sooooo busy but I wanted to get those outto you because I know some are building right now and I hope these help out. I willfix things up when I get a spare moment (does that ever happen here???)P.S don't be scared to browse around I added something else you may be interestedin ;^)Once again sorry for the horrid pictures of the Franken tools (they weretaken before I was a Photographer with my web cam, I will fix them up soonaspossible,Shawn Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 15 17:57:02 2001 f1FNv1e27967 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Beveller pictures on my Eboard page Sorry guys,I was in such a hurry I forgot the page link! Ever have one ofthosedays?Weeks?? Months??? Here it iswww.shawnsbamboopage.eboard.com ,Shawn Shawn Pineo wrote: Hi all,since there were so many requests for these pictures I posted themto my EBoard page (you know the one with the scary pictures of the scary Frankentools!)Sorry for the size/quality, I am sooooo busy but I wanted to getthose outto you because I know some are building right now and I hope these helpout. I willfix things up when I get a spare moment (does that ever happen here???)P.S don't be scared to browse around I added something else you may beinterestedin ;^)Once again sorry for the horrid pictures of the Franken tools (theyweretaken before I was a Photographer with my web cam, I will fix them up soonaspossible,Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 15 18:46:04 2001 f1G0k3e29532 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:45:59 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Back when I used to work on F18 aircraft I ran a piece of .51 thoulockwire(coathanger!!) through the palm of my hand, ouch. Later in the day Idropped a fuel fitting intoa bucket of jet fuel, without thinking I reached in and grabbed it, won't dothat again!!!Shawn Rick Crenshaw wrote: Ouch!! &*$^!!! Are you aware that you can locate minute cuts and knicks in your handwith many solvents such as acetone or denatured alcohol? Yes, you can. Rick k5vkq@ix.netcom.com wrote: Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgetting that it's"reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sitting andworking between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways one time. Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time,stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jetinstantglue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yet anothercrazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezing thebottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensiveBeerlocker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to workonsome small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home from thestoreto help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hard Itried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after she stoppedlaughing!mark from briansr@point-net.com Thu Feb 15 18:59:12 2001 f1G0xBe00021 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:58:52 -0500 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Hi ShawnServes you right for not working on REAL A/Cie: anything with pistons ,an CF 104 or 101 or the ONLY REAL A/C in theCanadian Department of Armed Services - a Herk .Cheers Brian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Back when I used to work on F18 aircraft I ran a piece of .51 thoulockwire(coathanger!!) through the palm of my hand, ouch. Later in the day Idropped a fuel fitting intoa bucket of jet fuel, without thinking I reached in and grabbed it, won'tdo that again!!!Shawn Rick Crenshaw wrote: Ouch!! &*$^!!! Are you aware that you can locate minute cuts and knicks in your handwith many solvents such as acetone or denatured alcohol? Yes, you can. Rick k5vkq@ix.netcom.com wrote: Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgettingthat it's "reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sittingand working between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways one time.Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time,stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jetinstantglue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yetanothercrazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezingthebottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my rather extensiveBeerlocker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over to workonsome small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home fromthestoreto help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matter how hardItried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after shestoppedlaughing!mark from jojo@ipa.net Thu Feb 15 19:01:57 2001 f1G11pe00218 Subject: Re: Blades for planes The LN blades will outlast the sharpness of a Hock by at least 2:1, if not3:1. M-D From: "timothy troester" request the A2 blades from LN. timothy --- Dorothy Teeple wrote: Do you have someone who supplies Lie Nielsen planesin the UK? Use both Hock and LN irons, personalpreference is the LN iron. Later,Leroy....... ----- Original Message -----From: SteVe Cook Enough of this frivolity, down to some serousstuff. I know 'Hock' blades are de rigueur for caneplanning, lesser blades won't keep their edge forlong, as I have found out. So who supplies them inEngland. Despite trawling the net for 'Hock', all Iget are rather earnest articles about poverty. CheersSteVe from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 19:04:18 2001 f1G14Ce00452 (62.188.145.254) Subject: What drugs should I be taking This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C097B4.062A0B20 Oh no! It's that SteVe taking up the bandwidth again. I don't know if it's my age, or a symptom of bamboo rod making ( I =suspect the later), but the 'world' starts to appear different.I thought I'd crack on and get my hex planning form built. So having =drilled and tapped assorted holes, to microscopic precision, it was time =to bolt the damn thing together. Dowels and bolts at the ready, this =stunning piece of kit was about to come together. Strangely nothing =seemed to align. I now have two left hand side (or is it right hand side) pieces of =planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this usual. Cheers, sSteVe ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C097B4.062A0B20 = again. I don't know if it's my age, or a symptom of bamboo = ( I suspect the later), but the 'world' starts to appear =different.I thought I'd crack on and get my hex planning at the ready, this stunning piece of kit was about to come = Strangely nothing seemed to align. I now have two left hand side (or is it right hand = pieces of planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this =usual. Cheers, sSteVe ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C097B4.062A0B20-- from TSmithwick@aol.com Thu Feb 15 19:08:38 2001 f1G18ce00763 Subject: Re: para 11 In a message dated 2/15/1 9:11:45 PM, stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Stuart - IMHO double hauling puts less stress on the rod, especially if you are casting for distance. If you try to cast distance with your wrist only, you will eventually put shock waves into the rod and the line. I believe this is more abusive than the smoother bend put in the rod by hauling. At the risk of starting a furor, I suggest that only double haulers should use Para type tapers. If you are only using your wrist, I think you will get better results from fast or progressive type tapers with less perceived weight as a benefit. Having said that, let me also add that any rod's performance will be enhanced by a well timed double haul. If you don't know how to do it, try to get a look at Mel Kreiger's original casting video. His method of teaching it is very effective. from Lazybee45@aol.com Thu Feb 15 19:09:57 2001 f1G19ue00912 Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... In a message dated 2/15/01 6:59:27 PM Central Standard Time, briansr@point-net.com writes: Cheers Brian >>Everyone knows that a REAL AIRCRAFT has two wings one above the otherand a round engine, ie Waco, Stearman, Beech Staggerwing etc.mark from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 15 19:11:44 2001 f1G1Bhe01142 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:11:39 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods stuart.rod@gmx.de, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... I did work on a Lancaster, Mosquito and Spitfire once(they had long sinceretired)and went on to the Sea King for 5 years before remustering to my newtrade... phototech :^)Shawn brian sturrock wrote: Hi ShawnServes you right for not working on REAL A/Cie: anything with pistons ,an CF 104 or 101 or the ONLY REAL A/C in theCanadian Department of Armed Services - a Herk .Cheers Brian----- Original Message -----From: "Shawn Pineo" Cc: ; ;; Sent: February 15, 2001 8:48 PMSubject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Back when I used to work on F18 aircraft I ran a piece of .51 thoulockwire(coathanger!!) through the palm of my hand, ouch. Later in the dayIdropped a fuel fitting intoa bucket of jet fuel, without thinking I reached in and grabbed it, won'tdo that again!!!Shawn Rick Crenshaw wrote: Ouch!! &*$^!!! Are you aware that you can locate minute cuts and knicks in your handwith many solvents such as acetone or denatured alcohol? Yes, you can. Rick k5vkq@ix.netcom.com wrote: Sorry Mark. I guess you will get two of these. I keep forgettingthat it's "reply to all". I used to catch things that rolled off the bench where I was sittingand working between my knees. Caught an xacto knife crossways onetime.Don't do that any more. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 2/14/01 6:09:07 AM Central Standard Time,stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Hmmm. not with rodmaking, but I once spilled a whole bottle of Jetinstantglue, the liquid super glue, while building a model airplane (yetanothercrazy hobby) It flowed like water all over the bench, (I was squeezingthebottle and the top popped off) my shirt front and my ratherextensiveBeerlocker where it was pressed against the bench as I leaned over toworkonsome small part. I had to wait for my dear wife to come home fromthestore> > > > to help release me. I couldn't reach the debonder, no matterhow hardItried. But realeasing myself did not take too long..... after shestoppedlaughing!mark from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 19:21:48 2001 f1G1Lke01690 (62.188.145.254) , Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Do you have the tapers for these? Another amazing shaft of wit. From.... SteVe ----- Original Message ----- ; Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... I did work on a Lancaster, Mosquito and Spitfire once(they had long sinceretired)and went on to the Sea King for 5 years before remustering to my newtrade... phototech :^)Shawn from splitcane@home.com Thu Feb 15 19:24:47 2001 f1G1Oke01884 ;Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:24:48 -0800 "rodmakers" Subject: Re: Shakespeare1231 Ken, South Bend and Montague built most of the Shakespeare rods, chancesareit's a Montague. I have a original Gypsy built by Montague, the wraps areolive tipped in black, with a black and gold signature wraps. I can send aphoto if needed, just let me know... Take Care, Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good afternoon, list I'm in need of wrap info on a Shakespeare 1231 New Gypsy. No, Sinclairdoesn't list it. Spurr's never heard of it. Huff doesn't have a clue,either. from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Thu Feb 15 19:29:37 2001 f1G1Tae02190 (5.5.2653.19) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: para 11 to play devils advocate, the sudden loading of the rod due to the quick pullof double hauling may put much higher stresses in the rod compared to thesmoother acceleration/loading of conventional casting. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: para 11 In a message dated 2/15/1 9:11:45 PM, stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: Stuart - IMHO double hauling puts less stress on the rod, especially if you are casting for distance. If you try to cast distance with your wrist only, you will eventually put shock waves into the rod and the line. I believethis is more abusive than the smoother bend put in the rod by hauling. At the risk of starting a furor, I suggest that only double haulers should use Para type tapers. If you are only using your wrist, I think you will get better results from fast or progressive type tapers with less perceived weight as a benefit. Having said that, let me also add that any rod's performance will be enhanced by a well timed double haul. If you don't know how to do it, try to get a look at Mel Kreiger's original casting video. His method of teaching it is very effective. from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 19:38:39 2001 f1G1cde03051 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:35:32 -0600 , Subject: Re: para 11 Not if you don't try to pick up too much line. The value of the double haulis that you can let out and shoot more line after a short line pick up !GMA from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Thu Feb 15 19:49:49 2001 f1G1nme03480 (62.188.135.130) , Subject: Re: para 11 from my experience ( limited it may be), the results must be dependent onthe action and length of the rod, the longer( within reason) and fasteraction the better. Double hauling a through action rod just results in thewhole shooting match collapsing. Although some people seem to be able toget away with the most horrendous casting actions ( a bit like golfersswings I suppose).I tend to suffer most early season, when switch between reservoirs andrivers. SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: para 11 to play devils advocate, the sudden loading of the rod due to the quickpullof double hauling may put much higher stresses in the rod compared to thesmoother acceleration/loading of conventional casting. -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:08 PM Subject: Re: para 11 In a message dated 2/15/1 9:11:45 PM, stuart.rod@gmx.de writes: a rod than normal casting does? >> Stuart - IMHO double hauling puts less stress on the rod, especially ifyouare casting for distance. If you try to cast distance with your wristonly,you will eventually put shock waves into the rod and the line. I believethisis more abusive than the smoother bend put in the rod by hauling.At the risk of starting a furor, I suggest that only double haulers shoulduse Para type tapers. If you are only using your wrist, I think you willget better results from fast or progressive type tapers with less perceivedweight as a benefit. Having said that, let me also add that any rod'sperformance will be enhanced by a well timed double haul. If you don'tknowhow to do it, try to get a look at Mel Kreiger's original casting video.His method of teaching it is very effective. from jfreeman@cyberport.com Thu Feb 15 20:01:37 2001 f1G21ae04289 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... All, My problem is, you know - some of the late and greats have suggested thatyou're supposed to keep a whiskey glass on the tying bench with which to wetyour fingers while tying? - well, evaporation has led me to "dry" flies andthe long walk to the dog house! I get it in my beard too. Don't even talk tome about glue! Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: You know you're a rodmaker when... Richard,So you've never tied your whiskers to the fly yet, huh? Waaaait!Art At 06:51 PM 02/13/2001 -0800, Richard R. Dutcher wrote:There is always fly tying. No mistakes here, ha. Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Dennis Haftel Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 10:26 PMSubject: You know you're a rodmaker when... I'm a little hesitant to send this, but here goes... OK. I know I'm wierd, and I'll be the first to admit it. But hasanyone else had similar experiences to this? I was coating new wrapswith varnish when I had an itch near my jaw (never fails when you'reencumbered). I scratched it and realized that I had varnish on myhand,but a little too late. My beard now has a nice coat of high gloss ManO' War in a few spots. I know this is "fluff", but I was justwonderinghow many others have had similar experiences. Now I'm off to find themineral spirits so I can wash my face! It should make a lastingimpression in the office tomorrow when I go in with large red patchesonmy mug! Later, Sticky from Kengorific@aol.com Thu Feb 15 21:41:26 2001 f1G3fPe07267 Subject: low cost ferrules I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice I know that my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I am trying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have found snake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive through Cabela's and other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able to find are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I am sure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind of investment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of a source from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 21:51:04 2001 f1G3oxe07660 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:48:04 -0600 Subject: Re: low cost ferrules Contact Tony Young on our list. He's in Australia, but turns out excellentwork, and at about half the cost of over here ! BTW, don't EVER scrimp onferrules ! You put in too much hard labor to have cheap ferrules spoil it !GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu Feb 15 21:53:40 2001 f1G3ree07902 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 21:50:44 -0600 , , Subject: Re: para 11 The modified parabolic is ideal for the double haul, once you get the rhythmof the action(s). I own no real fast tip rods, so have never tried to doublehaul with one.GMA from Troutgetter@aol.com Thu Feb 15 21:56:04 2001 f1G3u3e08099 Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking In a message dated 2/15/2001 5:04:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: I want the one's you're taking!Mike from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Thu Feb 15 21:57:49 2001 f1G3vle08298 Mail VirusWall NT); Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:56:26 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: FW: low cost ferrules Hi Ken,contact Tony Young. His ferrules are great quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to be prettycheap for you. You are in the States aren't you? The only downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States.As far as your first few rods being "more learning curve than art",I don't agree. If anything, you tend to be more meticulous with your firstrods as you are trying so hard to do everything just right. You'll lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it to havecheap and nasty ferrules on it. I'll bet you never sell it either. Good luck Mike from Spico81@aol.com Thu Feb 15 22:00:09 2001 f1G408e08525 Subject: Colorado Bootstrap forms --part1_e2.107a7d2f.27bdffc1_boundary Does anybody know how small the tip section tapers down to on Colorado Bootstrap forms? Also, do they come ready to use? --part1_e2.107a7d2f.27bdffc1_boundary Does anybody know howsmall the tip section tapers down to on Colorado use? --part1_e2.107a7d2f.27bdffc1_boundary-- from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 15 22:04:43 2001 f1G44ge08792 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:03:51 -0500 Subject: Re: low cost ferrules I would not do it. Don't go cheaper than the Cortland ones. I know it is hard to believe, but it will be the kind of thing that ruins your whole experience when the rod falls apart during a trip. Making a rod is not rocket science, it will turn out much better than you could imagine. The good ferrules are worth it. Believe me, I have cut off (or heated off) several sets of the good ones I screwed up. It's not really all that much cash. My best advice, get good ones, and get them fitted. You'll be much happier knowing that the ferrules were one of the easier parts.My .02,Bob At 10:41 PM 2/15/2001 -0500, Kengorific@aol.com wrote:I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice I knowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive throughCabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind ofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of asource Ken Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from Spico81@aol.com Thu Feb 15 22:05:39 2001 f1G45de08932 Subject: Used Final forms --part1_51.7854fb2.27be0108_boundary Just thought I might ask if any of you have any used finish planing forms you might want to sell. Thanks --part1_51.7854fb2.27be0108_boundary Just thought I might askif any of you have any used finish planing forms you --part1_51.7854fb2.27be0108_boundary-- from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Thu Feb 15 22:07:48 2001 f1G47le09156 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 23:06:50 -0500 "'RODMAKERS'" Subject: Re: FW: low cost ferrules My first rod is still my best in many ways. It is hard to believe that so many rods later, this would still be true. It's not because I have not learned a lot or gotten better at the finesse things. It is just that you spend 100 hours on the first one, and only 50 on all the rest. I agree with you Mike, whole heartedly. \BTW, Tony gets those suckers out faster than you would ever think. Theyare a great buy.Bob At 11:51 AM 2/16/2001 +0800, Roberts, Michael wrote:Hi Ken,contact Tony Young. His ferrules are great quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to be prettycheap for you. You are in the States aren't you? The only downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States.As far as your first few rods being "more learning curve than art",I don't agree. If anything, you tend to be more meticulous with your firstrods as you are trying so hard to do everything just right. You'll lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it to havecheap and nasty ferrules on it. I'll bet you never sell it either. Good luck Mike Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from caneman@clnk.com Thu Feb 15 22:08:27 2001 f1G48Re09275 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00FB_01C0979B.D060BE20 Just cut a piece of bamboo strip and start stirring your coffee with =it every morning... that will eventually brain damage you enough that =you'll do something like this, and say.... "hmmmmm... $h!# Happens!" and =just go about rebuilding it without a second thought... I think it's the =resins in the cane that make rodmakers pay no mind to mishaps, and =stirring coffee with a piece of scrap is a much more pleasant way of =getting the resin in your system than via cane cuts and splinters! *S* Later,BobPS, It never ends... A couple of months back, i was building a 6'6" 3 wt = them, worked too many hours in the shop one day, and made one beautiful =tip section and two mirrored butt sections. $h|# Happens!-----Original Message-----From: SteVe Cook Date: Thursday, February 15, 2001 7:05 PMSubject: What drugs should I be taking Oh no! It's that SteVe taking up the bandwidth again. I don't know if it's my age, or a symptom of bamboo rod making ( I =suspect the later), but the 'world' starts to appear different.I thought I'd crack on and get my hex planning form built. So =having drilled and tapped assorted holes, to microscopic precision, it =was time to bolt the damn thing together. Dowels and bolts at the =ready, this stunning piece of kit was about to come together. Strangely =nothing seemed to align. I now have two left hand side (or is it right hand side) pieces of =planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this usual. Cheers, sSteVe ------=_NextPart_000_00FB_01C0979B.D060BE20 Steve, piece = eventually brain damage you enough that you'll do something like this, = say.... "hmmmmm... $h!# Happens!" and just go about rebuilding = without a second thought... I think it's the resins in the cane that = rodmakers pay no mind to mishaps, and stirring coffee with a piece of = much more pleasant way of getting the resin in your system than via cane = and splinters! *S* Later,BobPS, It never ends... A couple of months back, i was = to mirror them, worked too many hours in the shop one day, and made Happens! -----Original = SteVe Cook <stevexcook@uk.packardbell.o= Rodmakers <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Thursday, February 15, 2001 7:05 PMSubject: What = I be taking again. I don't know if it's my age, or a symptom of = different.I thought I'd crack on and get my hex planning = align. I now have two left hand side (or is it right = pieces of planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this =usual. Cheers, sSteVe ------=_NextPart_000_00FB_01C0979B.D060BE20-- from Fishnabug@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:57:06 2001 f1G5v6e11307 Subject: RE: Colorado Bootstrap forms --part1_d6.26b8bfa.27be1b28_boundary Re: small tip sizes on Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go down to .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaning out the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to clean off any burrs or edges. Great forms!!! Dave --part1_d6.26b8bfa.27be1b28_boundary Re: small tip sizes onFranks forms, they are great. I'm able to go down to .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaningout the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to cleanoff any burrs or edges. Great forms!!! Dave --part1_d6.26b8bfa.27be1b28_boundary-- from martinj@aa.net Fri Feb 16 00:04:28 2001 f1G64Re11713 Thu, 15 Feb 2001 22:04:22 -0800 Subject: RE: Worm Virus - Question for Computer Guru's Were you infected twice or just received the virus twice in the last week?If you were infected twice in the last two weeks, I would say quit doubleclicking on attachments unless you know what they are and check the fileextensions. Lately the most common are *.vbs attachments. If you were just current virus scanning software, it should be picked up and cleaned orremoved before you can get to it. Even this latest virus the "AnnaKornikovia.vbs" virus was picked up and stopped by a two month old Mcafeevirus dat file from some of the workstations at work. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Andersen Subject: Worm Virus - Question for Computer Guru's Guys/Gals, I've been infected twice over the past week with a worm virus. I don'tthink it came from Rodmakers but of more interest, I want not to past italong.Occasionally I create documents in Word and as I understand the problem,the worm can reside in Word. The question is whether I can right click,highlight the required text and paste to a email without passing along thevirus.Please some help here. Thanx, Don from shane_person@telus.net Fri Feb 16 02:01:16 2001 f1G81Fe13572 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 01:01:11 -0700 rodmakers list serv Subject: Re: My little gripe Hi Harry,I am with you all the way on this one! HTML is just plain bad news am on other lists, mostly computer programming subjects, and theyin some cases block HTML messages, or at the very least stronglydisapprove. (They also disapprove of the kind of levity that is evident on this list :), not that I am complaining, as it is a nicechange from sometimes pretty droll stuff). Most also do not allow attachments, but provide space where they can be uploaded to for download by those interested. I am not advocating that for this list, as there is not much traffic in them here. In anyevent, they should be checked for viri before opening. HTML can also contain undesirable JavaScript that will not beapparent to the recipient until something goes wrong. Most of the newer browser versions have options to turn off JavaScript Shane Harry Boyd wrote: Hi Shawn,I'm anything but an expert here, but the gripe is many sided.First, slow dial-up connections and ISP's. I'd love to have a cableconnection, butthere is no such thing in these parts. And I'm not convinced of the viabilityofsatellite connections, not to mention their high cost. Second, html goes beserk on my laptop monitor at 800x600. Someoneon the list uses alight blue font. I can never read those message. Others tend to usecolored orpatterned backgrounds. Those tend to lock up my Netscape 4.76, Windows98, 400mhzToshiba laptop. Finally, the html makes every message much larger, and increases thedownload timeconsiderably. I'm on several list-serv's and manage to get about 250emails each day.Everything from bamboo rods to post modern, neo-orthodox theology isfunneled through thesame ISP. Most messages go directly in the trash. But most lists stronglydiscouragehtml, for some of the same reasons I've cited above. Again, I don't mean to be a curmudgeon about this. I'm just asking thatwe beconsiderate of one another and follow some fairly widespread, thoughcertainly notuniversal, list-serv guidelines. Either that, or I was just having a bad day when I started this thread. Happy Valentine's Day,Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: What I'm not sure of is why some peoples computers can't accept HTML.Is it a matter of settings ,older computers or slower ISPs ???Shawn from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 07:34:45 2001 f1GDYie17180 (62.188.22.141) Subject: Re: low cost ferrules Ken,Like you, I'm gathering bits for my first attempts, and don't want to partwith more money then I have to. But I have steared clear of cheap ferrules.My experiences refurbishing non descript British course rods shows theproblems with them. On every last one of them the female ferules wre split.I've benn lucky in acquring a selection of better quality plain brassferrules suitable for replacing these, but for fly rods I intend to purchasesomething better, espescially as they tend to be smaller and under greaterstrees.Good luck with your first attempts. SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: low cost ferrules I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice Iknowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive throughCabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kindofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of asource Ken from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 07:49:08 2001 f1GDn7e17509 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:46:14 -0600 Subject: Re: low cost ferrules About brass ferrules: Super Z once had a line of brass ferrules in mostsizes. These were under $10/set ! I have spinning rods with these ferrules,that have caught tarpon to snook, and never a sign of trouble, since theearly 1960's ! In this case, it's HOW they are made, not the material !GMA from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 08:37:27 2001 f1GEbQe19096 (62.188.22.141) Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turn onepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearly uponus, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt. Iwill be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". It'svery much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Anysuggestions?? Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking In a message dated 2/15/2001 5:04:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this usual. >> I want the one's you're taking!Mike from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 08:38:52 2001 f1GEcpe19257 (62.188.143.12) "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: My little gripe I agree with you on this one, having 'looked' in for a while, the humour andminor(?) deviations lold me it was the place to be. some lists takethemseleve to seriously. I joined one and sent my first message in the wrongformat ( not fully understaanding things back then), I was closed from thelist imediatly with a very curt message. I made no attempt to rejoin. Humouris vital - no matter how seriuos the subject. Cheers to all on the list (I'll have a drink on your behalf this evening) SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe Hi Harry,........(They also disapprove of the kind of levity that isevident on this list :), not that I am complaining, as it is a nicechange from sometimes pretty droll stuff). Shane from Andrew_Harsanyi@ibi.com Fri Feb 16 08:49:56 2001 f1GEnte19811 0500 Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have used anexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drill byhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from stewart4@zbzoom.net Fri Feb 16 09:28:51 2001 f1GFSoe21372 (24.154.23.138) Subject: Taper Request This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C09803.4C69CD60 Hello Everyone,I have started a para 14 and noticed the Young website offers three =tips. Does anyone have the tapers for these? I have a taper with a =tiptop dimension of .072. Searching the archives produced the same =taper I have. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C09803.4C69CD60 Hello Everyone, para = greatly appreciated. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C09803.4C69CD60-- from Canerods@aol.com Fri Feb 16 09:45:18 2001 f1GFjHe22513 Subject: Re: Colorado Bootstrap forms --part1_d9.10507178.27bea501_boundary In a message dated 2/15/01 9:57:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, Fishnabug@aol.com writes: Re: small tip sizes on Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go down to .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaning out the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to clean off any burrs or edges. Great forms!!! Dave Does Frank still sell them? What's the current price? Don Burns --part1_d9.10507178.27bea501_boundary In a message dated2/15/01 9:57:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, Fishnabug@aol.com writes: Re: small tip sizes on Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go downto .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaning out the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to cleanoff any burrs or edges. Great forms!!! Dave Does Frank still sell them? What's the current price? Don Burns --part1_d9.10507178.27bea501_boundary-- from Canerods@aol.com Fri Feb 16 09:45:19 2001 f1GFjHe22514 Subject: Re: FW: low cost ferrules --part1_67.fcd6879.27bea503_boundary In a message dated 2/15/01 7:58:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au writes: Hi Ken,contact Tony Young. His ferrules are great quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to beprettycheap for you. You are in the States aren't you? The only downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States.As far as your first few rods being "more learning curve than art",I don't agree. If anything, you tend to be more meticulous with your firstrods as you are trying so hard to do everything just right. You'll lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it tohavecheap and nasty ferrules on it. I'll bet you never sell it either. Good luck Mike Hey, stop telling everyone to buy ferrules from Tony - he's building me a rod and he's too damn busy to get to it. Don Burns --part1_67.fcd6879.27bea503_boundary In a message dated2/15/01 7:58:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au writes: Hi Ken, quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to bepretty downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States. curve than art", your first lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it tohave Good luck Mike Hey, stop telling everyone to buy ferrules from Tony - he's building me arod Don Burns --part1_67.fcd6879.27bea503_boundary-- from GriffinJohn@email.msn.com Fri Feb 16 09:49:05 2001 f1GFn1e22952 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 07:48:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork FILETIME=[F7568020:01C0982F] Dremel with sanding drum works great. I use 1/2" and 3/8" dia. Coarse gritdrums, smooth manually. John-----------------------------------------------------Click here for Free Video!!http://www.gohip.com/free_video/ ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have usedanexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drillbyhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from gjm80301@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 09:57:25 2001 f1GFvOe23432