2001 07:57:25 PST Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening John is right, of course, and I would add to it. I find that if youcan nearly straighten the blank in the first half hour after glueing,you then can go back an hour or so later and get that final twitchout of it after the Epon has just slightly stiffened and the blankdoesn't slip around quite so easily. I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry --- channer wrote:Mac;The same goes for heat treated Epon as any other glue, get it asstraight as you possibly can BEFORE the glue sets up. That's thebeautyof Epon and other slow setting glues, you can afford to fool withit foras long as it takes to get it right. Get it as straight as youpossiblycan and then heat er up. A word of advise, if you have a horizontaloven, get the blank good and clean and cut the strings off the endssothey don't hang up and bend the section you worked so hard tostraighten.John Ralph MacKenzie wrote: Hello again, rodmakers -Soon will be gluing up the 8015 Guide Special. I'll be usingEpon sinceI have enough on hand to glue up 200 years worth of rods at myrate ofproduction. Just learned of the heat set concept for Epon aboutthetime I finished the last rod and intend to use it this time. What isnot exactly clear to me is whether you should straighten theblankfirst, then do the heat set, or if you should do the heat set andthenthe straightening. Does it matter? Appreciate, yetstillmoreagain, your assistance and wisdom - mac __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 09:59:28 2001 f1GFxRe23653 (62.188.150.198) Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork hi Andy,I use a simple reciprocal, foot powered lathe. If you would like a diagramlet me know and I' ll post it of list, as an attachment SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have usedanexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drillbyhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 10:04:40 2001 f1GG4de24096 (62.188.150.198) Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Thanks Bob,I've never fished with anything less than a 4/5 wt. so I thought this wouldbe the place to start, as would, or should, have some idea if the rod 'feelsright' Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Steve,You're welcome to one of my tapers, and for the brookies that size,I'drecommend the 6'6" 2 wt. The rod is soft, bends into the butt sectionnicely during casting and playing a fish, and will put a delicate cast out10 feet, or can power out to 50 ft if you want it to.If you want to know how it casts from someone other than me, contactwildlife artist Michael Simons of Livingston, Montana atAfgantrout@aol.com. Michael is a great guy and a very avid flyfisher and I built this rodforhim and shipped it about two weeks ago. He plans to use it for fishingthesmall creeks for native cuts and brookies in SW Montana. I don't know ifhe's had a chance to fish it yet because of the winter weather there, butIdo know that he has cast it and has had other people at the FFFHeadquartersin Livingston cast it, and they all loved it.If you think you may want the taper, let me know and I'll send it toyou. Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: SteVe Cook rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:38 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turnonepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyuponus, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt.Iwill be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14".It'svery much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Anysuggestions?? Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 3:55 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking In a message dated 2/15/2001 5:04:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this usual. >> I want the one's you're taking!Mike from EESweet@aol.com Fri Feb 16 10:06:57 2001 f1GG6ue24346 Subject: unsubscribe from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 10:11:14 2001 f1GGBDe24628 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:11:14 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GGBEe24629 I say, old chap, You are spot on. Last Year I refinished a britishsalmon rod, build anno 1908, give or take a couple of years.It was obviously well used, but the brass ferrules still wereperfectly OK. (sorry, could not resist the old chap routine - shall abstainin the future) regards, carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: low cost ferrules About brass ferrules: Super Z once had a line of brass ferrules in mostsizes. These were under $10/set ! I have spinning rods with these ferrules,that have caught tarpon to snook, and never a sign of trouble, since theearly 1960's ! In this case, it's HOW they are made, not the material !GMA from Canerods@aol.com Fri Feb 16 10:12:55 2001 f1GGCse24758 Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary In a message dated 2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turn onepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyuponus, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt. Iwill be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". It'svery much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Anysuggestions?? Cheers SteVe SteVe, You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you see this way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the two grooves will be mirror image of each other. Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover that you filed the swelled butt taper on the wrong side. Don B. --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary In a message dated2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: A couple ofrather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turnonepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyupon myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt. will be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". suggestions?? Cheers SteVe SteVe, You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you seethis way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the twogrooves Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover thatyou Don B. --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 10:20:32 2001 f1GGKUe25448 (62.188.150.40) "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: My little gripe I'm at the computer training centre (yes this is part of the training), andthe 'experts' here suggest the HTML problems are not with HTML per se. Butwith the version (newness) used of the software. A couple of experimentsthis afternoon have shown this up quite vividly. Creating and formatting a message using a machine with Windows ME andOutlook version 5.5, posting it, then opening it on a machine with Win 98and Outlook 4.?? resulted in a partially undecipherable mess. But workingthe other way round presented no problems .'Plain text' of coarse behaved no matter which direction it went.They also believe Win 98 to be more stable then ME ( despite Microsoft'sclaims) and generally advise anybody getting a new machine to get 98 if theycan). I've only had my Me machine since the begining of the year and I've alreadydownloaded nearly a Gig of updates and patches. Cheers, SteVe ---- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe I agree with you on this one, having 'looked' in for a while, the humourandminor(?) deviations lold me it was the place to be. some lists takethemseleve to seriously. I joined one and sent my first message in thewrongformat ( not fully understaanding things back then), I was closed from thelist imediatly with a very curt message. I made no attempt to rejoin.Humouris vital - no matter how seriuos the subject. Cheers to all on the list (I'll have a drink on your behalf this evening) SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: "Shane Person" Cc: ; "rodmakers list serv" Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:01 AMSubject: Re: My little gripe Hi Harry,........(They also disapprove of the kind of levity that isevident on this list :), not that I am complaining, as it is a nicechange from sometimes pretty droll stuff). Shane from if6were9@bellsouth.net Fri Feb 16 10:46:48 2001 f1GGkle26715 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Take your calipers to your local home labyrinth and find a piece of brass tubejust a bit smaller than the recess you want. At home, saw off a piece of thetube and with a file, sharpen one end of this section. If you have a drill witha large enough chuck, chuck it up and go to work, otherwise, cut a 3/8plywoodplug that will fit in the end of your tube/cutter. Find the center of this plugand drill a 1/4" through hole. Mount the plug on a bolt and secure it with anut on the backside. Glue this plug in your tube, make sure the centerline ofthe bolt and the tube are parallel. Once the glue has dried, chuck the bolt upin your drill and cut. If you really want to get fancy, make up a pilot thatwill keep the cutter centered on the hole in the cork ring. I've got these inmany different sizes, not only to use for grips, but they work great forturningold flip flops into sponge bug bodies. "Harsanyi, Andrew" wrote: Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have used anexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drill byhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from dorothyt51@home.com Fri Feb 16 10:55:33 2001 f1GGtWe27328 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:53:11 -0800 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Anglers Workshop sells single rings with a pockets cut in them for yourpurpose. No financial interest or whatever.Leroy........----- Original Message ----- Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have usedanexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drillbyhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from Andrew_Harsanyi@ibi.com Fri Feb 16 11:14:37 2001 f1GHEae29273 0500 Subject: RE: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Thanks for all the good ideas! Andy from homessold@email.msn.com Fri Feb 16 11:17:22 2001 f1GHHMe29606 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:17:12 -0800 , Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking FILETIME=[4E03DE70:01C0983C] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80 Steve,I'm curious, how did you taper your forms prior to bolting them =together????Don Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:12 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), = piece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking = My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season = us, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace = aged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' = will be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - = very much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Any = You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you = way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the two = Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover that = ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80 Steve,I'm curious, how did you taper your forms prior to = them together????Don ----- Original Message ----- ; Troutgetter@aol.com ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001= AMSubject: Re: What drugs should = takingIn a = 2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.o= writes: A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind = Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep = turn one piece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's = good. So, what to build??? My original intention was a = Avon, but with the trout season nearly upon us, I think a fly = mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". = SteVe, You're supposed to tellpeople = you planned this all along - you see this way when you make your = butt groove on the flip side the two grooves will be mirror image = you discover that you filed the swelled butt taper on the wrong = ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Feb 16 11:38:56 2001 f1GHcte00886 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening I know You hate it, but You should always use gloves when handling glueto prevent developing allergy, epoxy is one of them You for sure willget allergic to.......... danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Feb 16 11:39:51 2001 f1GHdoe01055 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:39:43 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening .......the dust from sanding cured epoxy is also not good for Yourhealth......danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 13:16:03 2001 f1GJG2e04663 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:12:53 -0600 , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules No problem with the "Old Chap" Carsten, although it is a bit funny for a 5thgeneration TEXAN ! Brass does work well tho' !GMA from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 13:25:38 2001 f1GJPbe05137 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:25:37 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GJPce05138 Are You telling that there was non-indian inhabitants in Texas before JohnWayne???? regards, carsten No problem with the "Old Chap" Carsten, although it is a bit funny for a 5thgeneration TEXAN ! Brass does work well tho' !GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 13:40:50 2001 f1GJene05932 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:37:45 -0600 , , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules The first settler in Texas was Adam Lawrence, who obtained a land grantfromthe president of Mexico. This was in the late 1815 era. My great, greatgrandfather married Lawrence's daughter, and moved to his settlementabout1821 ! The West and Texas was allot rougher then the movie studios can put on thescreen ! GMA from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 13:54:01 2001 f1GJs0e07006 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:54:00 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GJs0e07007 Yet another illusion gone - sic.I do not doubt the roughness of the times,times were different then. Often wonder if we todaycould have endured "the good ol'days". Probably not.Nostalgia and Hollywood have a lot to answer for,I presume. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- ; ; Subject: Re: low cost ferrules The first settler in Texas was Adam Lawrence, who obtained a land grantfromthe president of Mexico. This was in the late 1815 era. My great, greatgrandfather married Lawrence's daughter, and moved to his settlementabout1821 ! The West and Texas was allot rougher then the movie studios can put onthescreen ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 14:39:06 2001 f1GKd4e09725 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:35:44 -0600 , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules Yes, I'm now convinced I lived my Golden Years, during the 1940's, '50's,and 60's ! Back then I had my health, and I was bullet proof ! GMA from darrell@rockclimbing.org Fri Feb 16 15:55:30 2001 f1GLtTe14744 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: low cost ferrules I agree with everyone about going for quality... That said, I do have the plated brass ones. You can use a hot stick ferruleglue and if you like your project rod, you can remove the cheapies and puton a good set later. Please contact me off list, if you are still interested. Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: low cost ferrules I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice I knowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive through Cabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind ofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of a source Ken from bhoy551@earthlink.net Fri Feb 16 15:57:50 2001 f1GLvne14989 NAA18607 Subject: Oven, 826 epon Having built a few nodeless rods, I'm finallly breaking down and building a neuneman-type tempering oven. I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use it horizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me from building a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout 150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just tested mine in boiling water and it only read 150*. On a somewhat related subject, does anyone know the heat deflection temperature of 826 epon? My idea is to use it on splices, heat treat the untapered strips so they have a higher deflection temperature than an un- heat treated blank using 828. The literature from the versamatics website says that 828 heat treated vs un-heat treated gives about a 60* range to play with. I'm wondering whether 826 would give me a wider range. Does this make sense? Thanks,Bill from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Feb 16 16:00:48 2001 f1GM0ke15269 Subject: Re: low cost ferrules I have to agree with Bob.I thought the same thing, heck it is my first rod. I used a 6.00 ferrule andregretted it till this day. Being that it was my first, I am leaving it like itis. With the grace of god and a great big Jacobs three jaw chuck I tighten itbackup when it starts "clicking".Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Maulucci wrote: I would not do it. Don't go cheaper than the Cortland ones. I know it ishard to believe, but it will be the kind of thing that ruins your wholeexperience when the rod falls apart during a trip. Making a rod is notrocket science, it will turn out much better than you could imagine. Thegood ferrules are worth it. Believe me, I have cut off (or heated off)several sets of the good ones I screwed up. It's not really all that muchcash. My best advice, get good ones, and get them fitted. You'll be muchhappier knowing that the ferrules were one of the easier parts.My .02,Bob At 10:41 PM 2/15/2001 -0500, Kengorific@aol.com wrote:I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice Iknowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive throughCabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind ofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of asource Ken Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri Feb 16 16:35:49 2001 f1GMZme17238 Subject: Setting Forms - Alternate methods Well here I am scanning the budget, reviewing the list of tools yet to bebuilt or purchased, and they just don't match up. The largest item(financially) left on the tool list is a depth guage. I can get a cheapone, but I'd rather not. Then I remembered reading about using a rod tomeasure depth, so I dug up the article. Looks simple enough as I alreadyhave decent dial caliper. But the article discusses this method merely as away to calibrate the depth guage. Is it feasible/practical to use thismethod for setting the forms? I realize it would certainly take a littlelonger than using a quality depth guage, but would it take too long to beuseful? from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Fri Feb 16 16:50:21 2001 f1GMoJe17933 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:50:15 +0000 Frank Neunemann ,"JANSNOWRICHARDS@aol.com" ,"Dennishigham@cs.com" ,Jim Forshey , Sean Mc Sharry,stuart moultrie , John Cooper,Rodmakers Mark Ford ,Golden Witch Subject: UK RODMAKERS MEETING 2001 Last year you may remember that the idea of a UK rodmakers meeting wasbeing floated.Well it's finally to happen with the help and sponsorshipof Waterlog Fishing Magazine (www.waterlogmagazine.co.uk). Venue; The Grange,Ellesmere,Shropshire.Dates; 31st August,1st and 2nd September The weekend is for professional and amateur bamboo rod builders.Theweekend will not be a teaching weekend but rather a conference for thosealready building bamboo rods.Presentations and led discussions willfocus on the areas of formers and binders,amateur perspectives,splitcane origins,gadgets and gizmo's,impregnation techniques,suppliers andgroup orders,and, the possibilies and problems of forming a guild.Therewill also be a silent auction of various fishing and rod buildingrelated items throughout the weekend. Attendees should not feel obliged to share all their tradesecrets,however,it is hoped that much benefit could be made of thesharing and dissemination of more general information.We are especiallykeen in hearing from people who may be interested in giving a shortpresentation to be followed by a group discussion on the subject. Waterlog will be supporting and hosting the weekend at the Grange.Theweekend starts on the friday evening with a meal and drinkies.Theprogramme of talks will run throughout Saturday and Sunday morning.The weekend will cost £120 ( UK sterling ) which will cover two nightsaccomodation,breakfast,lunch,dinner and coffee.The venue boasts manyfacilities including a very fine angling library.There will be castingon the lawn and fishing opportunities on the sunday afternoon.Waterlogare graciously donating theconference facilities for free. There is already a healthy list of professional and amateurs interestedin attending the weekend , so for further information please contacteither;Paul Blakeley(01642) 765138paul.blakley@ntlworld.com OR Mark Ford01502 717256rodmaker@becclesworkshop.freeserve.co.uk Accomodation is limited and will be provided on a first come firstserved basis.For booking details telephone Sarah Stonehewer-Ford on01502 717256 ( evenings and weekends only ) from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Fri Feb 16 17:00:03 2001 f1GN01e18419 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:59:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Setting Forms - Alternate methods You should get a depth gauge. It is very needed, and the only way in my book. You can probably make a good base, but I really recommend a god quality gauge and some sort of standard to check it with. Jeff Wagner has them. So do others. (GW, etc....)I check my settings several times as I go up and down the Hand Mill (or forms). I find the digimatic Mitotoyu (sp?) gauges to be excellent. Good luck,Bob At 03:37 PM 2/16/2001 -0700, you wrote:Well here I am scanning the budget, reviewing the list of tools yet to bebuilt or purchased, and they just don't match up. The largest item(financially) left on the tool list is a depth guage. I can get a cheapone, but I'd rather not. Then I remembered reading about using a rod tomeasure depth, so I dug up the article. Looks simple enough as I alreadyhave decent dial caliper. But the article discusses this method merely as away to calibrate the depth guage. Is it feasible/practical to use thismethod for setting the forms? I realize it would certainly take a littlelonger than using a quality depth guage, but would it take too long to beuseful? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from jojo@ipa.net Fri Feb 16 17:05:41 2001 f1GN5ee18734 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening Use only nitrile gloves. Latex gloves won't do the job. Do not wear, norbreathe epoxy. I've been using the stuff for over 25 years, and never had aproblem. On the other hand, I know of people who, in attempting to buildexperimental aircraft, through their carelessness got themselvessystemically sensitized and can't get near the stuff ever again.M- D I know You hate it, but You should always use gloves when handling glueto prevent developing allergy, epoxy is one of them You for sure willget allergic to.......... danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 18:08:27 2001 f1H08Qe20580 Subject: Calcutta Cane yore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Feb 16 19:40:23 2001 f1H1eMe22899 Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane Great stuff Reed, particularly liked the old ads.Thanks.Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Calcutta Cane yore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 19:53:21 2001 f1H1rKe23337 Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane Ed,Thanks. I'm planning on getting some Walden, some Foote, and some moreTravers on my extracts page soon. You might enjoy those. Winter is also agood time for reading.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Ed Riddle wrote: Great stuff Reed, particularly liked the old ads.Thanks.Ed from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 20:04:08 2001 f1H247e23753 2001 18:04:09 PST Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane reed, it looks alot like bamboo, doesn't it? :-) timothy --- reed curry wrote: looked like in days ofyore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 20:08:32 2001 f1H28Ve23952 0500Message-ID: Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane timothy,Sure does, but bamboo with a case of the black measles.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ timothy troester wrote: reed, it looks alot like bamboo, doesn't it? :-)timothy --- reed curry wrote: looked like in days ofyore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ -- from jfreeman@cyberport.com Fri Feb 16 20:11:08 2001 f1H2B3e24129 Subject: Re: Colorado Bootstrap forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440 If you find that .023 is not small enough, you can have just the last =12-18" of the form milled off in a taper to what you need. I had to do =so with mine and have had no problems as a result. It's easier to get = Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 10:56 PMSubject: RE: Colorado Bootstrap forms Re: small tip sizes on Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go = .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after = the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to = ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440 All, If you find that .023 is not small = have just the last 12-18" of the form milled off in a taper to what you = had to do so with mine and have had no problems as a result. It's easier = Jim ----- Original Message ----- Fishnabug@aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 15, = PMSubject: RE: Colorado Bootstrap= formsRe: small= Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go down to .023 (for a = of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaning out the middle = forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to clean off any = edges. Great forms!!! Dave = ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440-- from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 16 20:30:10 2001 f1H2U9e24827 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Andy,I use a piece of tubing, ground around the end to form asharp "blade." I use this in my lathe chuck, with the grip in mytail stock and run the tubing into the last ring, to the depth Iwant. Then with a sharp knife, I slide the blade into the cut andpush the blade in towards the center hole of the grip and thecork will break off in pieces, leaving an exact circular hole, foryour reel seat. If you are careful, I should think you could do this by holdingthe grip in one hand, center the tubing "cutter" and rotate the tubing with your other hand, while pushing it into the cork ring.. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Feb 16 20:30:49 2001 f1H2Uhe24849 Subject: Flintlocks & American magazines FNeunemann@compuserve.com,JANSNOWRICHARDS@aol.com, Dennishigham@cs.com, jim@seahorses.com,seanmcs@ar.com.au, stuart.rod@gmx.de, jcooper@interalpha.co.uk,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu gwti@desupernet.net List,The people who were interested in the flintlocks and the American magazines could you please e-mail me off list. My computer did a major faux paus and deleted all your addresses and interests.Bret from dpeaston@wzrd.com Fri Feb 16 20:57:05 2001 f1H2v4e25826 , ,, Subject: Re: para 11 George, I think you've put your finger on it! Perhaps some casters have problemswith paras because they do not do a double haul. It real does wonders forline speed and loop control. It makes my paras feel sooo good! -Doug At 10:01 PM 2/15/01 -0600, nobler wrote:The modified parabolic is ideal for the double haul, once you get the rhythmof the action(s). I own no real fast tip rods, so have never tried to doublehaul with one.GMA Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from kurt.clement@usa.net Fri Feb 16 21:19:48 2001 f1H3Jle26397 mailer(34FM.0700.15B.01) on Sat Feb 17 03:19:41 GMT 2001 Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] f1H3Jme26398 Bill, I dropped the first glass candy thermometer within 30 min. Went out andbought a Taylor electronic cooking thermometer, LCD display, about an 8"probeon a 24" lead that I poke through the three holes in my vertical heat gunoven. Has a timer and a temp alarm built in. Plus I let my wife use it whenI'm not cooking rods. (She has forgiven me for dropping her candy thermo Ithink). Less than $20 at Target. Goes up to 400F. Kurt Bill Hoy wrote: I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use it horizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me from building a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout 150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just tested mine in boiling water and it only read 150*. ____________________________________________________________________Get free email and a permanent address athttp://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 from caneman@clnk.com Fri Feb 16 21:28:19 2001 f1H3SJe26737 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] Hope you don't mind if I make a suggestion (the engineer coming out in menow! LOL) Any thermometer you use, needs have a scale at least twice thetemp you want to measure. One that would read max of from zero to 800-1000would be ideal for a heat treating oven. I don't want to get into a longdiscertation on the details of why, but this is true of any scale. I knowthere are a couple of electricians out there, and when you use a mulitmeteryou do the same thing... if you want to measure 120 volts, you use the 250volt scale. All has to do with relative accuracy. Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] Bill, I dropped the first glass candy thermometer within 30 min. Went out andbought a Taylor electronic cooking thermometer, LCD display, about an 8"probeon a 24" lead that I poke through the three holes in my vertical heat gunoven. Has a timer and a temp alarm built in. Plus I let my wife use itwhenI'm not cooking rods. (She has forgiven me for dropping her candy thermo Ithink). Less than $20 at Target. Goes up to 400F. Kurt Bill Hoy wrote: I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use ithorizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me frombuilding a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just testedmine in boiling water and it only read 150*. ____________________________________________________________________Get free email and a permanent address athttp://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 from stpete@netten.net Fri Feb 16 22:04:09 2001 f1H448e27470 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:07:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Andrew, Try a Forstner bit of the proper size for the hardware you are inserting.Forstner bits are available in a very good range of sizes and you will end upwith a flat bottomed recess if you don't need to go all the way through thecorkring. Cheap ones work fine with cork, don't splurge. Also, you can pick up avery useful drill press from Harbor Freight (don't throw too many stones - Iknow, I know...) for about $40-50 dollars!! It's a piece of junk as far as realdrill presses go, but it will work great for drilling cork, turning grips onmandrels, I've even made forms with mine (see T. Penrose's webpage!) ANDat$40-50 bucks, it costs less than many hand drills. Rick C. "Harsanyi, Andrew" wrote: Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have used anexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drill byhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 22:11:31 2001 f1H4BUe27752 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:08:17 -0600 , ,,"Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 The big thing is those used to fast tip rods, just can't wait for the wholerod to work, and deliver its full power ! After a little while, you learn tosense when that "tug" is coming, that tells you the back cast is ready ! That's about as well as i can describe it.GMA from cadams46@juno.com Fri Feb 16 23:29:20 2001 f1H5TJe29245 00:28:54 EST Subject: electric oven Just finished my electric hot plate oven. Thanks guys for thesuggestions, it turned out great. It's almost as much fun to build a new tool then it is to build a flyrod. Great feeling when you can standback and look at what you finished. In experimenting with my oven Ifound that with the thermostat I used it goes up to about 250* F thenshuts down. By the way so far I've had good luck with a smokerthermometer I picked up at Walmart for $15 it goes to 500*. Do you guys think 250* is a good temp? I could pretty easily rig it togo hotter, I think but it does seem to me that it would be ok. Thanks inadvance.C.R. Adams from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Feb 17 01:41:28 2001 f1H7fQe01636 f1H7ew028518; Subject: Re: hand plane advise Organization: vet Hello, danny If you say things like "you would like to shear" when you are in NewZealand, you'll find yourself up to your butt in sheep! Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: hand plane advise Don, I have been thinking of trying to make my own as well. My only problem isI've neverseen it for real. Have You made any drawings/plans You would like toshear? Best regardsdanny from piscator@macatawa.org Sat Feb 17 09:44:28 2001 f1HFiRe06312 , ,,, "Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 The first rod I built was a Para 14 (also found the taper for a para 13, ifanybody's interested ;^o) and I was sooo disapointed that the thing castlike a rug beater. Then I spent an afternoon playing with it with differentlines and put a TT 4/5 on it and slowed down (I was probably worn out bythis time!) and let the rod work. The rod started shooting line likenobody's business. At one time I was holding about 30' of coiled line in myhand while casting the rest, and shot everything but the last 5 feet of lineand was holding on to backing. I just stood there and giggleduncontrollably. I've been a paraholic ever since. Brian from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 09:48:29 2001 f1HFmTe06513 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:45:02 -0600 , ,,, "Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 10:09:37 2001 f1HG9ae06892 2001 08:09:38 PST Subject: sanding block hi brett, i got my sanding block from you and amtickled. it's a little block. just what i needed. itis simple and to the point. i have a 1" wide ruler icut my strips with and i have been using it ever sinceit arrived. thanks again! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from thinair@townsqr.com Sat Feb 17 12:29:39 2001 f1HITUe08440 compaqwww.townsqr.com ;Sat, 17 Feb 2001 12:22:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built It has a 20/64 ferrule and 8/64 tip top. The entire rod is 8'9" and the tipis a few inches longer than the butt section. The story I have is thatYoung used the tip from a Para 20 for the rod. With an equal length butt,it would make a 9' Para 20. There are a few photos athttp://users.townsqr.com/abeged/cast.htm. I haven't been able to find outmuch about any other Para 20's around, however. Does anyone knowanythingabout such an animal? I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone's interested I can. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Other PHY Para Tapers? Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forward meacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from robert.warholm@home.com Sat Feb 17 14:30:51 2001 f1HKUoe10206 0800 Subject: Fw: para 11 I'll Second that request for the Para 13 taper - noting that up to thispoint thaere has resently been the discovery of a para 11 to add to the 14,15, 16 (another ? recient find/public listing) and 17. Watching this progression I think it is only logical that someone out therehas a, Dare I say, "Para 12 Taper" and how Knows what other 10,18 ... Just thought I'd see or am I way off base. Rob W.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: para 11 Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:25:24 2001 f1HLPOe11083 Subject: Re: Oven, 826 epon Bill,I don't see why you couldn't use the oven horizontally provided you haveenough air volume flowing through the oven. You can buy a pyrometer foraround a $100 that is very accurate. My understanding is that 826 is merelya less viscous version of 828, so it should be the same.M-D Having built a few nodeless rods, I'm finallly breaking down and buildinganeuneman-type tempering oven. I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use ithorizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me frombuilding a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just testedmine in boiling water and it only read 150*. On a somewhat related subject, does anyone know the heat deflectiontemperature of 826 epon? My idea is to use it on splices, heat treat theuntapered strips so they have a higher deflection temperature than anun-heat treated blank using 828. The literature from the versamaticswebsite says that 828 heat treated vs un-heat treated gives about a 60*range to play with. I'm wondering whether 826 would give me a wider range.Does this make sense? Thanks,Bill from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:43:49 2001 f1HLhne11633 Subject: Re: para 11 Publish to the List, please.M-D Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:47:39 2001 f1HLlde11851 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? Gary,Some of us collect tapers like we do bad habits, even if we would never usethem. Please mic the sections and post to the List.M-D ----- Original Message ----- I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone's interested I can. From: Fishnabug@aol.com Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forwardmeacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 16:07:18 2001 f1HM7He12304 2001 14:07:13 PST Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? i've been told by those who believe they're going somewhere in this life that all this stuff is a bad habit!timothy --- Jojo DeLancier wrote:Gary,Some of us collect tapers like we do bad habits,even if we would never usethem. Please mic the sections and post to the List.M-D ----- Original Message -----From: "Gary" I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone'sinterested I can. From: Fishnabug@aol.com Does anyone know if Mr. Young producedother Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Paratapers please forward meacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Fishnabug@aol.com Sat Feb 17 16:40:33 2001 f1HMeWe13257 Subject: Tapers Collection --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some the other doesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary Gary, et. al. progressive rate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some theother doesn't have. I am specifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the TexasGeneral. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 16:57:48 2001 f1HMvle13711 2001 14:57:49 PST Subject: Re: Tapers Collection that was 200 tapers or 200 bad habit? i'll stand mylist of bad habits up to anyones. as tapers go, i'mabit short of 200. i'm about to the point of notwanting anymore tapers. i'll have to build them all,you know. timothy --- Fishnabug@aol.com wrote:Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressiverate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see ifwe have some the other doesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I amspecifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rodand the Texas General. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from dannyt@frisurf.no Sat Feb 17 17:51:13 2001 f1HNpCe14819 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Ferrule cement I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from piscator@macatawa.org Sat Feb 17 18:11:55 2001 f1I0Bse15238 Subject: hahahah virus This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0 HEY! Somebody just sent me the hahahaha virus. You should check your =box if you just sent me an e-mail about the para13. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0 about the para13. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 18:26:52 2001 f1I0Qpe15613 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:23:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Tapers Collection I'd sure like the taper for your Texas General, if it's the original 8.5'version I had 2 of once. The archives list it as a 9' or 9.5'.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 18:38:43 2001 f1I0che15928 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:35:24 -0600 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? You certainly have an amazing collection of PHY's work. Those varnishedwraps are sure "right on", as I bought a number of spools of that beigecolor from Paul. His commercial rods, stocked at a local sporting goodsstore in Dallas, all used that thread color, but they were color preserved.I really prefer the varnish filled treatment, as it's so much longerlasting. You'd do us all a favor by posting those tapers. I had one of his spinningrods about 1953, and caught some nice bass on it. It was the most parabolicof any PHY I've seen. GMA from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Feb 17 19:04:08 2001 f1I147e16510 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Danny,After you have the ferrule on the rod, put a double wrap of brasssnare wire (strong, flexible brass wire) around the ferrule with about afoot extra on both ends. Tuck the rod under your arm and, holding bothends of the snare wire pull it slowly down over the tabs, while rotatingthe ferrule gently above the alcohol lamp.The wire comes easily out of the excess cement, and the tabs have beenpushed tight to the cane.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Danny Twang wrote: I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny -- from Lazybee45@aol.com Sat Feb 17 19:40:36 2001 f1I1eZe17415 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? In a message dated 2/17/01 3:48:40 PM Central Standard Time, jojo@ipa.net writes: yes YES YES! Addicted I AM!!!mark from RMargiotta@aol.com Sat Feb 17 19:49:48 2001 f1I1nle17795 Subject: Payne Model 204L Taper Speaking of tapers, does someone have the 204L taper (8'6" 3 pc for a 4 or5 wt) they'd be willing to post? Thanks. --Rich from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:20:36 2001 f1I2KYe18740 (62.188.143.155) Subject: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00 flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of the =reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00 restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or= pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:17 2001 f1I2bGe19349 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:19 2001 f1I2bIe19361 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:23 2001 f1I2bLe19370 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:26 2001 f1I2bOe19381 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:29 2001 f1I2bRe19393 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:32 2001 f1I2bUe19425 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:34 2001 f1I2bXe19446 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:37 2001 f1I2bae19453 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:41 2001 f1I2bee19477 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 17 20:52:47 2001 f1I2qke21392 Subject: Re: Steve Cook This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940 Is it my computer that is malfunctioning or yours?I just received 9 emails from you (repeat messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes . You might want to check it out. =If it's my system email me and let me know.ThanksTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940 Steve Is it my computer that is = yours? = messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes .= want to check it out. If it's my system email me and let me =know.ThanksTonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940-- from lblan@provide.net Sat Feb 17 20:54:47 2001 f1I2ske21629 Subject: RE: Steve Cook This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0 Not your system, saw the same thing here.Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 9:50 AM Subject: Re: Steve Cook SteveIs it my computer that is malfunctioning or yours?I just received 9 emails from you (repeat messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes . You might want to check it out. Ifit's my system email me and let me know.ThanksTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0 your system, saw the same thing here.Larry Blan MillerSent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 9:50 = CookSteve Is it my computer that is = yours? messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes= want to check it out. If it's my system email me and let me =know.ThanksTony =Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Sat Feb 17 21:30:57 2001 (may be forged)) f1I3Uue22985 (5.5.2653.19) Subject: RE: low cost ferrules He's right. My first rod isn't my prettiest but it casts very well and I'veheard similar things from many others....Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: FW: low cost ferrules Hi Ken,contact Tony Young. His ferrules are great quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to be prettycheap for you. You are in the States aren't you? The only downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States.As far as your first few rods being "more learning curve than art",I don't agree. If anything, you tend to be more meticulous with your firstrods as you are trying so hard to do everything just right. You'll lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it to havecheap and nasty ferrules on it. I'll bet you never sell it either. Good luck Mike from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Sat Feb 17 21:32:04 2001 f1I3W3e23098 Subject: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my other rods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinny tipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 22:16:53 2001 f1I4Gqe24440 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 22:13:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Steve Cook It sounds like he's picked up some virus ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 22:22:40 2001 f1I4Mee24756 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 22:19:18 -0600 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Often a section keeping a set, even after all the tricks in straightening,tends to lean toward too much tension in the binding operation. Get it tootight, and even the wet glue won't let it move. Most of the masters stayed with 2x2, or 3x3 stagger of the nodes, as Irecall. GMA from castafly@gbis.com Sun Feb 18 02:49:50 2001 f1I8nne00752 AAA05759 User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Anyone Have A Taig Lathe? I am thinking about getting a Taig Lathe to help with turning grips andferrule stations. Does anyone have one of these lathes? Are they adequate (about $250)? They seem close to a sherline, but for a much better price... Thanks! from dutcher@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 03:43:12 2001 f1I9hCe01986 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 01:43:08 -0800 Subject: Guide Size, Not Spaceing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60 Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of information onguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. I amsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean? Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a given linediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down the rodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is a lotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they are madeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60 name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010218T094328ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sun Feb 18 03:54:03 2001 f1I9s2e02354 +0100 Subject: PHY The Perfectionist This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0 Guys It is with a sad heart I have to ask for Your help.A good friend of mine has asked me to help himdispose of an original PHY Perfectionist. Being hospitalized with a terminal stomach cancer,Ken cannot do it himself. He is a man with a brave heart,and has asked me to help him finding a good home for his favoritrod. He bought it in 1979/80 direct from the PHY company.It is fished, but well cared for. The serial No. is in the4000 range, can be established at a later time. love to by it from Ken, but insist of paying a fair price, whichI perhaps cannot afford. If so, I shall do everythingpossible to sell it to a caring owner. regards, Carsten Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0 Guys It is with a sad heart I have to ask = help.A good friend of mine has asked me to= him Perfectionist. Being hospitalized with a terminal = cancer,Ken cannot do it himself. He is a man = heart,and has asked me to help him finding a= rod. He bought it in 1979/80 direct fromthe = company.It is fished, but well cared for. The = in the4000 range, can be established at a = time. dearly love to by it from Ken, but insist of = price, whichI perhaps cannot afford. If so, I shall = everythingpossible to sell it to a caring =owner. regards, Carsten =Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Feb 18 04:15:29 2001 f1IAFQe02966 f1IAFC081270; Subject: Re: Tapers Collection Organization: vet Dave All I can say is that you'd better not have had that Para 16 taper for morethan a couple of weeks, or Martin will come after you! :-) Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tapers Collection Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect badhabits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some the otherdoesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr.Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others;Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General.Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 18 04:56:03 2001 f1IAu2e03868 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Hi Danny, I use a product called ferrul-Tite (available anywhere archeryequipment is sold).I imagine it works the same with the Gudebrod. I heatit up and apply it to the ferrule station and a bit to the inside of theferrule. Heat and send it home and while still fairly hot roll myfingers around the serrations. If after it cools I am not satisfied withthe fit at the serrations I heat just the serrations and repeat. Alwaysclean the interior of the ferrule with alcohol or laquer thinner first.I have used it for years with no problems. Marty I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sun Feb 18 06:50:08 2001 f1ICo7e06041 (62.188.156.163) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes (virus??) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380 List,Sorry about that chaps, my fault. In an effort not to tie up bandwidth, =the LAN server only sends 'priority messages out straight away. The =rest are spooled then sent out early morning. Nobodty told me of the =change. Hope it didn't cause to many worries. Cheers, SteVe Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 2:36 AMSubject: Re: Catfish & lathes Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380 List, = tie up bandwidth, the LAN server only sends 'priority messages out = worries. Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook ; Rodmakers Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= AMSubject: Re: Catfish & =lathes ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = to restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380-- from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 18 08:14:40 2001 f1IEEde08110 2001 07:14:40 -0700 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom;You are all set to learn how to scarf now. Take the 10" piece that brokeoff of the last tip and scarf it to the first one that broke at 6".Adjust your scarf position and guide position so the joint fals underthe second guide. I had the same problem with my first rod and it hasbeen fished hard for 5 yrs without any problems.John Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 18 08:20:42 2001 f1IEKfe08591 2001 07:20:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Dick;To me guide sizes are somewhat of a compromise between what looiks rightand what works right. I don't like the looks of oversize guides onbamboo rods at all, but I do realize that the line has to pass thru themeasily in order for the rod to cast right. I have settled on 8mmTitanium Carbide strippers with snakes going from size 2 at the largestto 2/0 at the smallest. a size 3 maybe wouldn't look too out of place ona 9'6wt, in which case I would stop at 1/0 before the tip. so far Ihaven't had any complaints about the guides choking the line and my ownrods seem to cast and shoot just fine.John "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of informationonguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. I amsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean? Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a given linediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down the rodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is a lotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they aremadeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from bydesign@cfw.com Sun Feb 18 08:56:59 2001 f1IEuwe09593 Subject: Ferrule removal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0 After botching a tip section for a 3wt rod, I would like to reclaim as =much hardware off the tip as possible for a newly planed tip. The =guides should not be a problem but I'm not so sure about the tip-top and =male ferrule which are epoxied-Devcon 2 ton. If I alternate heat and =cold would I stand a chance? Then there is the issue of cleaning them =too. Is this practical, are there other methods, or should I just punt, =let it be a learning experience and get on with a new ferrule? Thanks,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0 After botching a tip section for a 3wt = like to reclaim as much hardware off the tip as possible for a newly = ferrule? Thanks,RichYoung ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 09:28:19 2001 f1IFSEe10457 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 09:24:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing I don't know about the others, but because of the newer lines being so muchlarger in diameter, I have used the largest guides that won't make adifference in the action. As for stripping guide, if it's a 2 - pc. for an #8 line, I wouldn'thesitate to use a 9.5mm guide, which = 3/8". You are correct in yourthinking it seems, as this makes casting so much easier due to less linedrag. GMA from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Sun Feb 18 10:58:58 2001 f1IGwve12555 0500 Subject: attaching ferrules: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0 I find electrical straps work really well for this purpose, clean up most ofepoxy after pulling tight and let set. After drying clean up with acetone arazor blade. This method allows for epoxy to bind inside and betweenserrations. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0 Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 I find =electricalstraps work really well for this purpose, clean up most of epoxy after =pulling tightand let set. After drying clean up with acetone a razor blade. This =methodallows for epoxy to bind inside and between serrations. Take care, =Tim. Signature" Upstream =Always, Tim Doughty Rodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods=.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Sun Feb 18 11:26:25 2001 f1IHQOe13374 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from b2g@jps.net Sun Feb 18 11:33:06 2001 f1IHX5e13727 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Organization: Badges 2 Go Dick, This is the rule of thumb I use for my rod building. I use a size 8stripper for fly-lines for line weights 2 through 5; and a number 10stripper with line weights 6 through 9. For the number of guides I put onemore guide then the length of the rod in feet (this does not including thetiptop and stripper). For the size of the snake guides I make theprogressively larger form the tip to the butt. Here are some examples ofwhat works for me. 6' midge rod: tiptop, 4/0, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, #8 stripper6 1/2' rod: tiptop, 4/0, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 1, #8 stripper7' rod: tiptop, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1/0, 1, 2, #8 stripper7 1/2' rod: tiptop, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1/0, 1, 1, 2, #8 stripper Hope this helps. Robert H. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of informationonguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. Iamsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean?Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a givenlinediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down therodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is alotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they aremadeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Feb 18 11:37:08 2001 f1IHb7e13994 Subject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one time because the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on them and the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and has some pretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them. Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem? I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth I use on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 18 12:01:30 2001 f1II1Ue14988 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, here. Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 18 12:05:05 2001 f1II55e15223 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Oxidized ferrules Bret,Hit kmart or Wal mart and get some Tarnex. That won't completely cleanthem, but will remove most of the oxidation without removing any metal,thenmaybe you can get them polished out without compromising the fit.Someone told me about that years ago when i had a Heddon that had badlyoxidized males. It worked. Finished off with a VERY light hand buffingwith a product called Flitz... If you can find flitz, use it sparingly,because it won't look like it's taking off metal at all, then all of asudden, you have a loose fit... very pretty bright polished ferrules, but aloose fit! Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one timebecause the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on themand the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and hassomepretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them.Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem?I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth Iuse on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from piscator@macatawa.org Sun Feb 18 12:07:24 2001 f1II7Ne15409 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, with pin-tails. Tried corners, didn't like the look, tried flats nopin-tails, didn't like the look. I learned from Wayne, so I may be biased,but the transition zone just seems to flow from ferrule into the rod sectionthis way the best. FWIW. Brian from bydesign@cfw.com Sun Feb 18 12:45:19 2001 f1IIjIe16654 Subject: Ferrule removal -Thanks! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20 Thanks to all who responded-just finished and everything came off =without a hitch. I guess one ever really gets off the learning curve of =rodmaking. Thanks again,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20 Thanks to all who responded-just = learning curve of rodmaking. Thanks again,RichYoung ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 12:53:32 2001 f1IIrVe17100 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 10:53:04 -0800 Subject: Re: Oxidized ferrules Hi Bret, I ran into this problem a few times and lived to tell about it, so far.First, use a cotton swab to apply a moderate amount of metal cleaner insidethe female ferrule. Give the chemicals in the cleaner a chance to loosen theoxidation. Second, Use a small round file (blunt end) or a wood dowel thathas been roughed up with coarse sand paper. Take 4/0 steel wool and starttounwrap the pad. Spin the steel fibers onto the file or dowel. Try not tobuild a taper around the file. I like to use a round file with no taper. Thefile holds the spun steel wool securely. Turn this reamer into the femaleferrule a few turns. Clean out with a cotton swab and repeat until the maleend fits properly. I always wax the male ferrule during the trials. All ofthe polishing is following the circumference of the ferrules and now the twopieces are being forced together at ninety degrees to the fine polishingserration's. The wax will give just enough lubrication to allow the twopieces to lap together through normal use. I hope this works as well foryou, good luck. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Grhghlndr@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 9:36 AMSubject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one timebecause the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on themand the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and hassomepretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them.Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem?I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth Iuse on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 14:46:45 2001 f1IKkie20106 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:43:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, like PHY !GMA from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 15:08:39 2001 f1IL8ce20646 Subject: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 15:14:10 2001 f1ILE4e20856 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:13:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Reed's overmywaders.com site has a lot of these in his Herter's excerpts. I have made these into a pdf if anyone wants it. I will post some casting tapers from "Tournament Fly and Baitcasting" today.Bob At 03:18 PM 2/18/2001 -0600, Randy Zimmerman wrote:I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 15:23:39 2001 f1ILNXe21344 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:19:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I posted the Marinaro taper for a light lure casting rod. It was made forChas. K. Fox author of a book on light lure bass fishing mostly, in Pa.. If you can't find it, I'll dig it out of the book again.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 15:24:59 2001 f1ILOxe21493 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:20:56 -0600 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I know I would Bob, and thanks for the offer.GMA from canazon@mindspring.com Sun Feb 18 15:26:04 2001 f1ILQ4e21622 Subject: re: guide size This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320 i have kind of the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk =line on my rod and am wondering if i should use smaller guides still ridin' the bus ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320 guides bus ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320-- from dnorl@qwest.net Sun Feb 18 15:31:36 2001 f1ILVZe22051 (63.228.44.153) " rod 'akers" Subject: Re: sanding block Brett,Still have some blocks?Dave-----Original Message----- Subject: sanding block hi brett, i got my sanding block from you and amtickled. it's a little block. just what i needed. itis simple and to the point. i have a 1" wide ruler icut my strips with and i have been using it ever sinceit arrived. thanks again! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 16:02:33 2001 f1IM2Se22984 Subject: RE: Spinning and casting rod tapers Thanks a lot fellows! Do you suppose the lighter casting rod tapers would besuitable for spinning? I will check Reed's tapers, and would appreciate anyother leads you can think of...Randy from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Feb 18 16:38:13 2001 f1IMcCe23757 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 22:38:13 +0000 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Randy,I recently posted the tapers from 'Tournament Fly & Bait casting on thelist.I assume Bob is posting the same ones?I have also just completed and cast ( yesterday ) and fished ( today )the 'Fox' taper that George( thanks George ) was on about.For lightlures ( 1/4-3/8oz) it's a fine, forgiving tool.The Claude M Kreider book also contains several casting and spinningtapers......if you would like these let me know .Talk about being weird.......I live in the UK where lure fishing with aspinning rod is deemed weird.I am now fishing with those strange lookingrods( bamboo.....even weirder ) with a trigger grip and vintagemultipliers on top to boot !..........Paul Randy Zimmerman wrote: I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 18 16:46:48 2001 f1IMkge24055 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Hi Danny, On the flats. Marty Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 16:52:05 2001 f1IMq3e24361 Subject: Re: spinning and casting rod tapers Paul, Bob, Et Al: Yes I think Bob posted your tapers, interesting howsimilar some of them are at first glance. I printed out the Herter's tapersthat Reed has on his website and they have sort of a "family resemblance".Maybe the casting tapers were never as highly evolved as flyrod tapers???Anyway thank you for the info...Randy from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 17:03:58 2001 f1IN3we24838 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 17:00:20 -0600 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Great, you show 'em Paul ! It's magic when you have a real balanced castingrod set up ! I'm glad your meeting sounds like it went well !GMA from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Feb 18 17:11:06 2001 f1INB6e25183 Subject: HAHAHA List,Guess what showed up in my e-mail today. the hahaha note. Of course Iam deleting it but it is being sent around again.bret from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 17:14:20 2001 f1INEEe25459 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:13:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers HI Paul:I bought the book after your initial post. It is great. I did not know you posted any more than the fly rods. Maybe you could repost? If so, thanks BobBob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 17:16:21 2001 f1INGKe25669 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:15:36 -0500 Subject: Re: spinning and casting rod tapers Hi Randy:Actually, I just sent them to you (I think). If anyone else wants them, maybe Paul would be willing to repost.Bob At 05:02 PM 2/18/2001 -0600, Randy Zimmerman wrote:Paul, Bob, Et Al: Yes I think Bob posted your tapers, interesting howsimilar some of them are at first glance. I printed out the Herter's tapersthat Reed has on his website and they have sort of a "family resemblance".Maybe the casting tapers were never as highly evolved as flyrod tapers???Anyway thank you for the info...Randy Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sun Feb 18 17:40:26 2001 f1INeOe26471 (62.188.28.168) Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Hi Paul, It's not that long ago that spinning was considered weird here, never mindwith a bit of 'stick'. I've just spent a couple of hours this afternoonflinging a Colorado Spoon round, with 7' of greenheart and an old Fleetwing.Had a great time catching 2lb 'jacks'. The rest of the 'anglers looked asmiserable as sin, waving £1000 plastic poles around for a few of ounces ofroach. We could be the forerunners of a great new trend. Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Randy,I recently posted the tapers from 'Tournament Fly & Bait casting on thelist.I assume Bob is posting the same ones?I have also just completed and cast ( yesterday ) and fished ( today )the 'Fox' taper that George( thanks George ) was on about.For lightlures ( 1/4-3/8oz) it's a fine, forgiving tool.The Claude M Kreider book also contains several casting and spinningtapers......if you would like these let me know .Talk about being weird.......I live in the UK where lure fishing with aspinning rod is deemed weird.I am now fishing with those strange lookingrods( bamboo.....even weirder ) with a trigger grip and vintagemultipliers on top to boot !..........Paul Randy Zimmerman wrote: I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could findwiththe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tellmewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I havethebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :)Thanks! from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:25:27 2001 f1J0PQe27336 Subject: Re: Anyone Have A Taig Lathe? Yes, I have one. It is a great little lathe, especially considering the costof it, and the available tooling. The aesthetics aren't the best, especiallywhen compared to the Sherline, but you can't beat the price for theprecision it offers. You will need to open up the spindle hole in order toaccommodate larger rod sections, but that is about the only mod you *need*to make.M-D I am thinking about getting a Taig Lathe to help with turning grips andferrule stations. Does anyone have one of these lathes? Are theyadequate (about $250)? They seem close to a sherline, but for a much betterprice... Thanks! from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:32:26 2001 f1J0WKe27632 Subject: Re: Tapers Collection Peter,I was being kind to Dave, and assuming that he was referring to the 16 taperwhich I posted to the List. I even offered him the unknown PHY taper whichis in the Archives, and provided me by the Rev. Boyd, but he neverresponded. My kindness, however, does have its limitations. };^)>M-D Dave All I can say is that you'd better not have had that Para 16 taper formorethan a couple of weeks, or Martin will come after you! :-) Peter From: Fishnabug@aol.com Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect badhabits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some theotherdoesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr.Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others;Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General.Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:40:22 2001 f1J0eLe27948 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing I would concur with John on what looks right, and what works. Don Phillips,in his book "The Technology of Fly Rods" has a nice illustration on page 75wherein he shows the relative relationships of 6wt and 8wt lines to a 2/0guide. There is considerable space available even with the 8wt line.M-D Dick;To me guide sizes are somewhat of a compromise between what looiksrightand what works right. I don't like the looks of oversize guides onbamboo rods at all, but I do realize that the line has to pass thru themeasily in order for the rod to cast right. I have settled on 8mmTitanium Carbide strippers with snakes going from size 2 at the largestto 2/0 at the smallest. a size 3 maybe wouldn't look too out of place ona 9'6wt, in which case I would stop at 1/0 before the tip. so far Ihaven't had any complaints about the guides choking the line and my ownrods seem to cast and shoot just fine.John "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information ondeterminingthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount ofinformation onguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Best regards,Dick from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 18 18:46:15 2001 f1J0kFe28176 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:45:28 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a little morecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the lastcouple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're not careful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away,Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Sun Feb 18 19:09:43 2001 f1J19de29081 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:12:56 -0500 Subject: RE: attaching ferrules: Hi Tim, the plastic straps used to bind wiring together. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: attaching ferrules: what is an electrical strap? timothy --- Tim Doughty wrote:I find electrical straps work really well for thispurpose, clean up most ofepoxy after pulling tight and let set. After dryingclean up with acetone arazor blade. This method allows for epoxy to bindinside and betweenserrations. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Feb 18 19:21:14 2001 f1J1LEe29530 Rodmakers Info Subject: Re: attaching ferrules: Tim, In New England we call them "cable ties".Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Tim Doughty wrote: Hi Tim, the plastic straps used to bind wiring together. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Feb 18 19:46:38 2001 f1J1kbe00400 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Organization: Same for me. Always the flats. Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, here. Bob-----Original Message-----From: Danny Twang Date: Sunday, February 18, 2001 11:27 AMSubject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from iank@ts.co.nz Sun Feb 18 20:30:27 2001 f1J2UPe01313 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom, Just to support Shawn's opinion ( and that is not to say two wrongs make aright). I had similar experiences with nodes snapping at final planning andflexing a few years ago. I was probably doing something wrong in my heatingand pressing. I now do not press the nodes. I file them at the stage ofroughing , then give them a sand for final flatness prior to final planning. Since doing this I have had no problems. The nodes may be a little larger inappearance, but not much , and it eliminates a step which has the potentialto create a major weakness in the rod. This weakness only becomes apparentwhen you catch the largest fish ever if the strip gets through the initialflex test. Ian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a littlemorecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the lastcouple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're notcareful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away, Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound,and deletednoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put agoodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. deletedWhat could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Feb 18 20:40:04 2001 f1J2e2e01685 Mail VirusWall NT); Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:31:24 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) "Roberts, Michael",rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: FW: low cost ferrules Hey, stop telling everyone to buy ferrules from Tony - he's building me arod and he's too damn busy to get to it. Don Burns Hi Don,What is the ID on the rod? I'll have to have a look at it before it getsshipped out. And please accept my most humble apologies for any delay Imayhave caused : )Stay luckyMike from piscator@macatawa.org Sun Feb 18 20:57:03 2001 f1J2uwe02243 Subject: Summer trip to Yellowstone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0 Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and Island =Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there or have =some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any suggestions = TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0 Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but= TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0-- from cadams46@juno.com Sun Feb 18 21:03:37 2001 f1J33ae02568 22:02:54 EST Subject: Fly Fishing History Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loop andprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall. Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Sun Feb 18 21:26:27 2001 f1J3QQe03105 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History How long will it be in Utah? Any idea what the schedule is? Ray Wallace Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loop andprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall. Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Sun Feb 18 21:27:25 2001 f1J3ROe03202 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Ian and Shawn, I think you're right about too much heat when pressing thenodes. All of my previous rods have been 8'+ 5-7 weights with fairly strongtips. The small diameter tip section probably revealed the flaw in my process! Thanks so much for the advice. I really learn a lot from you experts on theList Serv Tom from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Feb 18 21:33:03 2001 f1J3X2e03620 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I have only one thing to add. It's still the middle of winter and the air is very dry. Humidity is much lower than in the summertime so the nodes get ultra dry when you heat them and this makes them very brittle; so that when you "crush" them with the vise..... Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 08:48 PM 2/18/01 -0500, Shawn Pineo wrote:Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a little morecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the last couple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're not careful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away, Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftoverstrips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner orlater,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 21:38:40 2001 f1J3cde03922 Subject: Re:Summer trip to Yellowstone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40 ago. The park has its own licensing system so you need to get a license =inside the park. You can fish the Firehole ,Gibbon,and Madison on the Saturday beginning memorial day weekend. The =Yellowstone(in the park)does not open until July 15th. According to the =regulations sheet they gave me. We fished the Firehole in late June. =Both times were Excellent! So much it inspired me to name one of my rods =the Firehole. I am used to fishing eastern streams so fishing the =Firehole was (all to easy). Fish the Firehole near were the little =Firehole enters it(just below it). Both seasons they hit little yellow =caddis (sizes 16&18) Take parachutes, olive and sulphur. I used a =Michigan pattern called a borcher drythat worked extremely well in size 14. Also did well on a olive pheasant =tail that I tie. My 13 year old daughter caught a real nice 17 1/2 inch =brown on a borcher dry. She was usinga 3wt fly rod with a 6x tippet (not bad eh). A lot of people were =fishing the Madison, but it was a little crowded. You will catch allot =of Rainbows around 12" to 14". Don't use any lead they have a NO LEAD =regulation. Hope this helped!Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40 I was at Yellowstone this last Summer = seasons ago. The park has its own licensing = need to get a license inside the park. You can fish the Firehole =,Gibbon,and Madison on the Saturday = memorial day weekend. The Yellowstone(in the park)does not open until = According to the regulations sheet they gave me. We fished the Firehole = June. Both times were Excellent! So much it inspired me to name one of = the Firehole. I am used to fishing eastern streams so fishing the = (all to easy). Fish the Firehole near were the little Firehole enters = below it). Both seasons they hit little yellow caddis (sizes 16&18) = parachutes, olive and sulphur. I used a Michigan pattern called a = drythat worked extremely well in size 14. = usinga 3wt fly rod with a 6x tippet (not bad= lot of people were fishing the Madison, but it was a little crowded. You = catch allot of Rainbows around 12" to 14". Don't use any lead they have = LEAD regulation. Hope this helped!Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Feb 18 21:44:38 2001 f1J3iae04230 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I'm bloody gun shy about computer virus lately having been struck severaltimes in the last couple of weeks but damn the torpedoes it's a sorry daywhen the maggots keep you off a list! It may be worth a try of just filing the nodes and not pressing them atall. There is enough confusion of fibers in the nodes as they are let alonedeforming them more by driving them into the spline further. Tony At 07:33 PM 2/18/01 -0800, Tom Bowden wrote:Ian and Shawn, I think you're right about too much heat when pressing thenodes. All of my previous rods have been 8'+ 5-7 weights with fairly strongtips. The small diameter tip section probably revealed the flaw in myprocess! Thanks so much for the advice. I really learn a lot from you experts on theList Serv Tom /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way. Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Feb 18 21:45:55 2001 f1J3jse04374 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement I use golf club epoxy to attach the ferrules. I put enough epoxy on the blank and in the ferrule so that when I press the rod into the ferrule, it overflows. If it is excessive, I wipe some away, but I leave a goodly amount of the "overflow. I have a bobbin with a spool of quilting thread in it. I start winding this around the serrations in the ferrule pulling it tightly to the rod. I stop and wiggle it to make sure it is seating with the tabs on the flats. When it is to tight to wiggle, I wind the thread so that it covers all of the glued area. I let it set and when the epoxy is set, I pull the end of the quilting thread and spin it away. I then take some fine sandpaper and a small file and prepare the ferrule for the wrapping thread. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 12:49 AM 2/18/01 +0100, Danny Twang wrote:I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:19:36 2001 f1J4JZe05384 Subject: Re:Fly Fishing History This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0 You must be referring to the American Museum of FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've been there too.It's really cool, they have just about every rod imaginable.Did they have the Baby Catskill (Leonard) at the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've ever seen. If you ever get a chance =to go to Vermont you should check it out. You can also see the Orvis =Main store and fish the Battenkill. And they have a great golf course =there set into the mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also go skiing =there too. Great little New England town. You would be surprised that =the museum is sort of small, but the gear they have is incredible. As = really old rods before 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in good condition (hold on to it). I =have thought of making a rod that had those, but they are not as =practical as snake guides and I'm not sure if there would be any =interest in them. But they look cool on a rod.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0 Ray You must be referring to the American= FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've = too. the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've = you ever get a chance to go to Vermont you should check it out. You can = the Orvis Main store and fish the Battenkill. And they have a great golf = there set into the mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also go skiing = too. Great little New England town. You would be surprised that the = sort of small, but the gear they have is incredible. As for the rods = the ring and strap for guides, that was common on really old rods before = 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in = (hold on to it). I have thought of making a rod that had those, but they = as practical as snake guides and I'm not sure if there would be any = them. But they look cool on a rod.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:23:46 2001 f1J4Nje05602 Subject: Got the fever! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20 Sorry guys I don't mean to ramble ,but I have been making rods for two =months straight and today I got the fever to flyfish. I'm sure this must =be happening to some of you too!LOL So you know what I mean.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20 Sorry guys I don't mean to ramble ,but= making rods for two months straight and today I got the fever to = sure this must be happening to some of you too!LOL So you know what I =mean.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20-- from rmoon@ida.net Sun Feb 18 22:25:09 2001 f1J4P7e05732 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History Until May 4th Ralph Ray Wallace wrote: How long will it be in Utah? Any idea what the schedule is? Ray Wallace Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loopandprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall.Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:39:32 2001 f1J4dWe06301 Subject: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0 TonyHave you tried installing Norton antivirus?I have it in my computer and I've never got a virus yet.My Norton always catches it before it gets into the computer and allows =me to delete it. Also you can get online updated protection from new =viruses when you choose.It also allows you to scan your system for =viruses. I highly recommend it. Well worth the cost of the program.Just a suggestion. Hope it helps.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0 Tony antivirus?I have it in my computer and I've never= yet.My Norton always catches it before it = computer and allows me to delete it. Also you can get online updated = from new viruses when you choose.It also allows you to scan your system = program.Just a suggestion. Hope it =helps.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0-- from homessold@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 23:01:35 2001 f1J51Te07257 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:01:24 -0800 Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone FILETIME=[0299C200:01C09A31] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260 Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if they don't have what you =want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of your other =needs.Don Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:00 PMSubject: Summer trip to Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and =Island Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there =or have some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any =suggestions for a good guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260 Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if = all = other needs.Don ----- Original Message ----- Creek Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PMSubject: Summer trip to =Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but= guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260-- from homessold@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 23:04:31 2001 f1J54Ve07522 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:04:23 -0800 ,"Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone FILETIME=[6DD0CF50:01C09A31] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260 Brian, Sorry about that, the second web page is Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 9:02 PMSubject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if they don't have what you =want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of your other =needs.Don Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:00 PMSubject: Summer trip to Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and =Island Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there =or have some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any =suggestions for a good guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260 Brian, Sorry about that, the second web page iswww.westyellowstone.com= ----- Original Message ----- Schneider Rodmakers Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PM Yellowstone Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if= all = other needs.Don ----- Original Message ----- Creek Sent: Sunday, February 18, = PM Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, = guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260-- from jkcerise@rof.net Sun Feb 18 23:15:17 2001 f1J5FFe08180 Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone At 09:02 PM 02/18/01 -0800, you wrote:Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.comif they don't have what you want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of yourother needs.Don Brian,I 'think' Don meant to send you here:http://www.westyellowstone.com/ Have Fun! John from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 23:21:51 2001 f1J5Loe08535 Subject: Re: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20 Tony sorry it didn't help.Yes the Norton does have a online update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no =new updates at that time. And It reminds meto update every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn the computer on. I =think all that is adjustable settings.And I can scan whenever I choose also. Very handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virus problems =lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off list and let me know how much your =ferrules cost. And are they similar to Super Swiss? ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20 help. update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. = know if there are no new updates at that time. And It reminds =meto update every 24 hours. It also scans= the computer on. I think all that is adjustable settings. = handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , = the virus problems lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off = Swiss? flyfish@defnet.com www.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Mon Feb 19 02:23:53 2001 f1J8Nqe13395 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 00:23:49 -0800 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 08:23:48 GMT Subject: re: guide size FILETIME=[48C36C60:01C09A4D] From: "mike canazon" Subject: re: guide sizeDate: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:23:42 -0800 i have kind of the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk line on my rod and am wondering if i should use smaller guides still ridin' the busmike canazon Use the larger size guides, otherwise you are stuck with a rod made for silk only. Silk goes through large guides just dandy but... as many of us know a synthetic line does'nt go through the dinky guides worth a damn. I size my guides 1/0 to #3 on rods up through 8', 1/0 to #4 on rods over 8ft both with a 10mm carboloy, 3 wts (when I get talked into making one of the worthless things) get an 8mm strip and #2 to 1/0. Salmon / Steelhead rods get two strippers 12 and 10mm and #4 through #1 and a lg ring tip. Probably alot of western bias here, I don't care much if the rod looks 'pretty' if the line won't go out the end of the rod. When you have 6ft to go to get the fly to the hole on the stump stretch of the N. Umpqua and the ubiquitous rock ledge is at your back aesthetic considerations begin to pale.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Mon Feb 19 02:50:18 2001 f1J8oGe14023 (62.188.17.120) Subject: Re: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_016C_01C09A50.DB06EFE0 The free download from Computer Assocites does very much the same thing. Cheers, SteVe Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 5:19 PMSubject: Re: Tony Young Tony sorry it didn't help.Yes the Norton does have a online update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no =new updates at that time. And It reminds meto update every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn the computer on. I =think all that is adjustable settings.And I can scan whenever I choose also. Very handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virus problems =lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off list and let me know how much your =ferrules cost. And are they similar to Super Swiss? ------=_NextPart_000_016C_01C09A50.DB06EFE0 The free download from Computer Assocites doesvery = same thing. http://antivirus.cai.com/= Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Tony = Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PMSubject: Re: Tony Young help. update.I'm able to update whenever I choose.= know if there are no new updates at that time. And It reminds =meto update every 24 hours. It also = turn the computer on. I think all that is adjustable =settings. choose = handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list = all the virus problems lately,I thou