2001 07:57:25 PST Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening John is right, of course, and I would add to it. I find that if youcan nearly straighten the blank in the first half hour after glueing,you then can go back an hour or so later and get that final twitchout of it after the Epon has just slightly stiffened and the blankdoesn't slip around quite so easily. I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry --- channer wrote:Mac;The same goes for heat treated Epon as any other glue, get it asstraight as you possibly can BEFORE the glue sets up. That's thebeautyof Epon and other slow setting glues, you can afford to fool withit foras long as it takes to get it right. Get it as straight as youpossiblycan and then heat er up. A word of advise, if you have a horizontaloven, get the blank good and clean and cut the strings off the endssothey don't hang up and bend the section you worked so hard tostraighten.John Ralph MacKenzie wrote: Hello again, rodmakers -Soon will be gluing up the 8015 Guide Special. I'll be usingEpon sinceI have enough on hand to glue up 200 years worth of rods at myrate ofproduction. Just learned of the heat set concept for Epon aboutthetime I finished the last rod and intend to use it this time. What isnot exactly clear to me is whether you should straighten theblankfirst, then do the heat set, or if you should do the heat set andthenthe straightening. Does it matter? Appreciate, yetstillmoreagain, your assistance and wisdom - mac __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 09:59:28 2001 f1GFxRe23653 (62.188.150.198) Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork hi Andy,I use a simple reciprocal, foot powered lathe. If you would like a diagramlet me know and I' ll post it of list, as an attachment SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have usedanexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drillbyhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 10:04:40 2001 f1GG4de24096 (62.188.150.198) Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Thanks Bob,I've never fished with anything less than a 4/5 wt. so I thought this wouldbe the place to start, as would, or should, have some idea if the rod 'feelsright' Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Steve,You're welcome to one of my tapers, and for the brookies that size,I'drecommend the 6'6" 2 wt. The rod is soft, bends into the butt sectionnicely during casting and playing a fish, and will put a delicate cast out10 feet, or can power out to 50 ft if you want it to.If you want to know how it casts from someone other than me, contactwildlife artist Michael Simons of Livingston, Montana atAfgantrout@aol.com. Michael is a great guy and a very avid flyfisher and I built this rodforhim and shipped it about two weeks ago. He plans to use it for fishingthesmall creeks for native cuts and brookies in SW Montana. I don't know ifhe's had a chance to fish it yet because of the winter weather there, butIdo know that he has cast it and has had other people at the FFFHeadquartersin Livingston cast it, and they all loved it.If you think you may want the taper, let me know and I'll send it toyou. Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: SteVe Cook rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:38 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turnonepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyuponus, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt.Iwill be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14".It'svery much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Anysuggestions?? Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 3:55 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking In a message dated 2/15/2001 5:04:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: planning form. Should I see a doctor, or is this usual. >> I want the one's you're taking!Mike from EESweet@aol.com Fri Feb 16 10:06:57 2001 f1GG6ue24346 Subject: unsubscribe from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 10:11:14 2001 f1GGBDe24628 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:11:14 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GGBEe24629 I say, old chap, You are spot on. Last Year I refinished a britishsalmon rod, build anno 1908, give or take a couple of years.It was obviously well used, but the brass ferrules still wereperfectly OK. (sorry, could not resist the old chap routine - shall abstainin the future) regards, carsten ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: low cost ferrules About brass ferrules: Super Z once had a line of brass ferrules in mostsizes. These were under $10/set ! I have spinning rods with these ferrules,that have caught tarpon to snook, and never a sign of trouble, since theearly 1960's ! In this case, it's HOW they are made, not the material !GMA from Canerods@aol.com Fri Feb 16 10:12:55 2001 f1GGCse24758 Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary In a message dated 2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turn onepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyuponus, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt. Iwill be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". It'svery much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Anysuggestions?? Cheers SteVe SteVe, You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you see this way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the two grooves will be mirror image of each other. Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover that you filed the swelled butt taper on the wrong side. Don B. --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary In a message dated2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org writes: A couple ofrather fine local ales ( only to excess mind you???) Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), turnonepiece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking good. So, what to build???My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season nearlyupon myaged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' 4/5wt. will be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". suggestions?? Cheers SteVe SteVe, You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you seethis way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the twogrooves Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover thatyou Don B. --part1_47.788da90.27beab5b_boundary-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Fri Feb 16 10:20:32 2001 f1GGKUe25448 (62.188.150.40) "rodmakers list serv" Subject: Re: My little gripe I'm at the computer training centre (yes this is part of the training), andthe 'experts' here suggest the HTML problems are not with HTML per se. Butwith the version (newness) used of the software. A couple of experimentsthis afternoon have shown this up quite vividly. Creating and formatting a message using a machine with Windows ME andOutlook version 5.5, posting it, then opening it on a machine with Win 98and Outlook 4.?? resulted in a partially undecipherable mess. But workingthe other way round presented no problems .'Plain text' of coarse behaved no matter which direction it went.They also believe Win 98 to be more stable then ME ( despite Microsoft'sclaims) and generally advise anybody getting a new machine to get 98 if theycan). I've only had my Me machine since the begining of the year and I've alreadydownloaded nearly a Gig of updates and patches. Cheers, SteVe ---- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: My little gripe I agree with you on this one, having 'looked' in for a while, the humourandminor(?) deviations lold me it was the place to be. some lists takethemseleve to seriously. I joined one and sent my first message in thewrongformat ( not fully understaanding things back then), I was closed from thelist imediatly with a very curt message. I made no attempt to rejoin.Humouris vital - no matter how seriuos the subject. Cheers to all on the list (I'll have a drink on your behalf this evening) SteVe ----- Original Message -----From: "Shane Person" Cc: ; "rodmakers list serv" Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:01 AMSubject: Re: My little gripe Hi Harry,........(They also disapprove of the kind of levity that isevident on this list :), not that I am complaining, as it is a nicechange from sometimes pretty droll stuff). Shane from if6were9@bellsouth.net Fri Feb 16 10:46:48 2001 f1GGkle26715 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Take your calipers to your local home labyrinth and find a piece of brass tubejust a bit smaller than the recess you want. At home, saw off a piece of thetube and with a file, sharpen one end of this section. If you have a drill witha large enough chuck, chuck it up and go to work, otherwise, cut a 3/8plywoodplug that will fit in the end of your tube/cutter. Find the center of this plugand drill a 1/4" through hole. Mount the plug on a bolt and secure it with anut on the backside. Glue this plug in your tube, make sure the centerline ofthe bolt and the tube are parallel. Once the glue has dried, chuck the bolt upin your drill and cut. If you really want to get fancy, make up a pilot thatwill keep the cutter centered on the hole in the cork ring. I've got these inmany different sizes, not only to use for grips, but they work great forturningold flip flops into sponge bug bodies. "Harsanyi, Andrew" wrote: Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have used anexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drill byhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from dorothyt51@home.com Fri Feb 16 10:55:33 2001 f1GGtWe27328 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 08:53:11 -0800 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Anglers Workshop sells single rings with a pockets cut in them for yourpurpose. No financial interest or whatever.Leroy........----- Original Message ----- Subject: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have usedanexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drillbyhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from Andrew_Harsanyi@ibi.com Fri Feb 16 11:14:37 2001 f1GHEae29273 0500 Subject: RE: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Thanks for all the good ideas! Andy from homessold@email.msn.com Fri Feb 16 11:17:22 2001 f1GHHMe29606 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 09:17:12 -0800 , Subject: Re: What drugs should I be taking FILETIME=[4E03DE70:01C0983C] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80 Steve,I'm curious, how did you taper your forms prior to bolting them =together????Don Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 8:12 AMSubject: Re: What drugs should I be taking Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep can do), = piece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's looking = My original intention was a MKIV Avon, but with the trout season = us, I think a fly rod is the order of the day. Something to replace = aged, through action (even the handle bends!!) Fibretube. 7' - 8' = will be mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - = very much a 'hook & hold' situation, so a 'soft' rod is vital. Any = You're supposed to tell people that you planned this all along - you = way when you make your swelled butt groove on the flip side the two = Except the 2.5" screw will be at the wrong end after you discover that = ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80 Steve,I'm curious, how did you taper your forms prior to = them together????Don ----- Original Message ----- ; Troutgetter@aol.com ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001= AMSubject: Re: What drugs should = takingIn a = 2/16/01 6:38:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevexcook@uk.packardbell.o= writes: A couple of rather fine local ales ( only to excess mind = Problem solved ( it's surprising what a good nights sleep = turn one piece upside down and plane/scrape a new 'groove'. it's = good. So, what to build??? My original intention was a = Avon, but with the trout season nearly upon us, I think a fly = mainly short casting 10' - 20' to native Brownies, 10" - 14". = SteVe, You're supposed to tellpeople = you planned this all along - you see this way when you make your = butt groove on the flip side the two grooves will be mirror image = you discover that you filed the swelled butt taper on the wrong = ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C097F8.D2915F80-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Feb 16 11:38:56 2001 f1GHcte00886 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening I know You hate it, but You should always use gloves when handling glueto prevent developing allergy, epoxy is one of them You for sure willget allergic to.......... danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri Feb 16 11:39:51 2001 f1GHdoe01055 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:39:43 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening .......the dust from sanding cured epoxy is also not good for Yourhealth......danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 13:16:03 2001 f1GJG2e04663 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:12:53 -0600 , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules No problem with the "Old Chap" Carsten, although it is a bit funny for a 5thgeneration TEXAN ! Brass does work well tho' !GMA from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 13:25:38 2001 f1GJPbe05137 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:25:37 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GJPce05138 Are You telling that there was non-indian inhabitants in Texas before JohnWayne???? regards, carsten No problem with the "Old Chap" Carsten, although it is a bit funny for a 5thgeneration TEXAN ! Brass does work well tho' !GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 13:40:50 2001 f1GJene05932 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 13:37:45 -0600 , , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules The first settler in Texas was Adam Lawrence, who obtained a land grantfromthe president of Mexico. This was in the late 1815 era. My great, greatgrandfather married Lawrence's daughter, and moved to his settlementabout1821 ! The West and Texas was allot rougher then the movie studios can put on thescreen ! GMA from cmj@post11.tele.dk Fri Feb 16 13:54:01 2001 f1GJs0e07006 ;Fri, 16 Feb 2001 20:54:00 +0100 , Subject: Sv: low cost ferrules f1GJs0e07007 Yet another illusion gone - sic.I do not doubt the roughness of the times,times were different then. Often wonder if we todaycould have endured "the good ol'days". Probably not.Nostalgia and Hollywood have a lot to answer for,I presume. regards,carsten ----- Original Message ----- ; ; Subject: Re: low cost ferrules The first settler in Texas was Adam Lawrence, who obtained a land grantfromthe president of Mexico. This was in the late 1815 era. My great, greatgrandfather married Lawrence's daughter, and moved to his settlementabout1821 ! The West and Texas was allot rougher then the movie studios can put onthescreen ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 14:39:06 2001 f1GKd4e09725 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:35:44 -0600 , Subject: Re: low cost ferrules Yes, I'm now convinced I lived my Golden Years, during the 1940's, '50's,and 60's ! Back then I had my health, and I was bullet proof ! GMA from darrell@rockclimbing.org Fri Feb 16 15:55:30 2001 f1GLtTe14744 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: low cost ferrules I agree with everyone about going for quality... That said, I do have the plated brass ones. You can use a hot stick ferruleglue and if you like your project rod, you can remove the cheapies and puton a good set later. Please contact me off list, if you are still interested. Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: low cost ferrules I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice I knowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive through Cabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind ofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of a source Ken from bhoy551@earthlink.net Fri Feb 16 15:57:50 2001 f1GLvne14989 NAA18607 Subject: Oven, 826 epon Having built a few nodeless rods, I'm finallly breaking down and building a neuneman-type tempering oven. I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use it horizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me from building a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout 150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just tested mine in boiling water and it only read 150*. On a somewhat related subject, does anyone know the heat deflection temperature of 826 epon? My idea is to use it on splices, heat treat the untapered strips so they have a higher deflection temperature than an un- heat treated blank using 828. The literature from the versamatics website says that 828 heat treated vs un-heat treated gives about a 60* range to play with. I'm wondering whether 826 would give me a wider range. Does this make sense? Thanks,Bill from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Feb 16 16:00:48 2001 f1GM0ke15269 Subject: Re: low cost ferrules I have to agree with Bob.I thought the same thing, heck it is my first rod. I used a 6.00 ferrule andregretted it till this day. Being that it was my first, I am leaving it like itis. With the grace of god and a great big Jacobs three jaw chuck I tighten itbackup when it starts "clicking".Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Maulucci wrote: I would not do it. Don't go cheaper than the Cortland ones. I know it ishard to believe, but it will be the kind of thing that ruins your wholeexperience when the rod falls apart during a trip. Making a rod is notrocket science, it will turn out much better than you could imagine. Thegood ferrules are worth it. Believe me, I have cut off (or heated off)several sets of the good ones I screwed up. It's not really all that muchcash. My best advice, get good ones, and get them fitted. You'll be muchhappier knowing that the ferrules were one of the easier parts.My .02,Bob At 10:41 PM 2/15/2001 -0500, Kengorific@aol.com wrote:I am currently gathering supplies for my first cane rod. As a novice Iknowthat my first few projects will be more 'learning curve' than art, so I amtrying to find lower cost components of adequate quality. I have foundsnake guides, cork and reel seats that aren't too expensive throughCabela'sand other mass market outlets. But the only ferrules I have been able tofind are high quality nickle silver ones going for $36 to $50. While I amsure these items are well worth the cost, I would like to save that kind ofinvestment for later rods that are 'keepers'. Does anyone know of asource Ken Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri Feb 16 16:35:49 2001 f1GMZme17238 Subject: Setting Forms - Alternate methods Well here I am scanning the budget, reviewing the list of tools yet to bebuilt or purchased, and they just don't match up. The largest item(financially) left on the tool list is a depth guage. I can get a cheapone, but I'd rather not. Then I remembered reading about using a rod tomeasure depth, so I dug up the article. Looks simple enough as I alreadyhave decent dial caliper. But the article discusses this method merely as away to calibrate the depth guage. Is it feasible/practical to use thismethod for setting the forms? I realize it would certainly take a littlelonger than using a quality depth guage, but would it take too long to beuseful? from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Fri Feb 16 16:50:21 2001 f1GMoJe17933 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:50:15 +0000 Frank Neunemann ,"JANSNOWRICHARDS@aol.com" ,"Dennishigham@cs.com" ,Jim Forshey , Sean Mc Sharry,stuart moultrie , John Cooper,Rodmakers Mark Ford ,Golden Witch Subject: UK RODMAKERS MEETING 2001 Last year you may remember that the idea of a UK rodmakers meeting wasbeing floated.Well it's finally to happen with the help and sponsorshipof Waterlog Fishing Magazine (www.waterlogmagazine.co.uk). Venue; The Grange,Ellesmere,Shropshire.Dates; 31st August,1st and 2nd September The weekend is for professional and amateur bamboo rod builders.Theweekend will not be a teaching weekend but rather a conference for thosealready building bamboo rods.Presentations and led discussions willfocus on the areas of formers and binders,amateur perspectives,splitcane origins,gadgets and gizmo's,impregnation techniques,suppliers andgroup orders,and, the possibilies and problems of forming a guild.Therewill also be a silent auction of various fishing and rod buildingrelated items throughout the weekend. Attendees should not feel obliged to share all their tradesecrets,however,it is hoped that much benefit could be made of thesharing and dissemination of more general information.We are especiallykeen in hearing from people who may be interested in giving a shortpresentation to be followed by a group discussion on the subject. Waterlog will be supporting and hosting the weekend at the Grange.Theweekend starts on the friday evening with a meal and drinkies.Theprogramme of talks will run throughout Saturday and Sunday morning.The weekend will cost £120 ( UK sterling ) which will cover two nightsaccomodation,breakfast,lunch,dinner and coffee.The venue boasts manyfacilities including a very fine angling library.There will be castingon the lawn and fishing opportunities on the sunday afternoon.Waterlogare graciously donating theconference facilities for free. There is already a healthy list of professional and amateurs interestedin attending the weekend , so for further information please contacteither;Paul Blakeley(01642) 765138paul.blakley@ntlworld.com OR Mark Ford01502 717256rodmaker@becclesworkshop.freeserve.co.uk Accomodation is limited and will be provided on a first come firstserved basis.For booking details telephone Sarah Stonehewer-Ford on01502 717256 ( evenings and weekends only ) from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Fri Feb 16 17:00:03 2001 f1GN01e18419 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:59:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Setting Forms - Alternate methods You should get a depth gauge. It is very needed, and the only way in my book. You can probably make a good base, but I really recommend a god quality gauge and some sort of standard to check it with. Jeff Wagner has them. So do others. (GW, etc....)I check my settings several times as I go up and down the Hand Mill (or forms). I find the digimatic Mitotoyu (sp?) gauges to be excellent. Good luck,Bob At 03:37 PM 2/16/2001 -0700, you wrote:Well here I am scanning the budget, reviewing the list of tools yet to bebuilt or purchased, and they just don't match up. The largest item(financially) left on the tool list is a depth guage. I can get a cheapone, but I'd rather not. Then I remembered reading about using a rod tomeasure depth, so I dug up the article. Looks simple enough as I alreadyhave decent dial caliper. But the article discusses this method merely as away to calibrate the depth guage. Is it feasible/practical to use thismethod for setting the forms? I realize it would certainly take a littlelonger than using a quality depth guage, but would it take too long to beuseful? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from jojo@ipa.net Fri Feb 16 17:05:41 2001 f1GN5ee18734 Subject: Re: Epon curing/blank straightening Use only nitrile gloves. Latex gloves won't do the job. Do not wear, norbreathe epoxy. I've been using the stuff for over 25 years, and never had aproblem. On the other hand, I know of people who, in attempting to buildexperimental aircraft, through their carelessness got themselvessystemically sensitized and can't get near the stuff ever again.M- D I know You hate it, but You should always use gloves when handling glueto prevent developing allergy, epoxy is one of them You for sure willget allergic to.......... danny I love working with Epon, but fear I may have a slight allergy to it.I'm going to wear gloves next time and see if that helps. Hate tochange glue. Jerry from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 18:08:27 2001 f1H08Qe20580 Subject: Calcutta Cane yore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Feb 16 19:40:23 2001 f1H1eMe22899 Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane Great stuff Reed, particularly liked the old ads.Thanks.Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Calcutta Cane yore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 19:53:21 2001 f1H1rKe23337 Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane Ed,Thanks. I'm planning on getting some Walden, some Foote, and some moreTravers on my extracts page soon. You might enjoy those. Winter is also agood time for reading.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Ed Riddle wrote: Great stuff Reed, particularly liked the old ads.Thanks.Ed from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 20:04:08 2001 f1H247e23753 2001 18:04:09 PST Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane reed, it looks alot like bamboo, doesn't it? :-) timothy --- reed curry wrote: looked like in days ofyore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri Feb 16 20:08:32 2001 f1H28Ve23952 0500Message-ID: Subject: Re: Calcutta Cane timothy,Sure does, but bamboo with a case of the black measles.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ timothy troester wrote: reed, it looks alot like bamboo, doesn't it? :-)timothy --- reed curry wrote: looked like in days ofyore, I scanned in a section of a rod.http://www.overmywaders.com/photos.html Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ -- from jfreeman@cyberport.com Fri Feb 16 20:11:08 2001 f1H2B3e24129 Subject: Re: Colorado Bootstrap forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440 If you find that .023 is not small enough, you can have just the last =12-18" of the form milled off in a taper to what you need. I had to do =so with mine and have had no problems as a result. It's easier to get = Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 10:56 PMSubject: RE: Colorado Bootstrap forms Re: small tip sizes on Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go = .023 (for a final tip of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after = the middle of the forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to = ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440 All, If you find that .023 is not small = have just the last 12-18" of the form milled off in a taper to what you = had to do so with mine and have had no problems as a result. It's easier = Jim ----- Original Message ----- Fishnabug@aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 15, = PMSubject: RE: Colorado Bootstrap= formsRe: small= Franks forms, they are great. I'm able to go down to .023 (for a = of .046, haven't tried any smaller ) after cleaning out the middle = forms and less than 5 minutes of draw filing to clean off any = edges. Great forms!!! Dave = ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C0984C.4926F440-- from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 16 20:30:10 2001 f1H2U9e24827 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Andy,I use a piece of tubing, ground around the end to form asharp "blade." I use this in my lathe chuck, with the grip in mytail stock and run the tubing into the last ring, to the depth Iwant. Then with a sharp knife, I slide the blade into the cut andpush the blade in towards the center hole of the grip and thecork will break off in pieces, leaving an exact circular hole, foryour reel seat. If you are careful, I should think you could do this by holdingthe grip in one hand, center the tubing "cutter" and rotate the tubing with your other hand, while pushing it into the cork ring.. Dave L. http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Feb 16 20:30:49 2001 f1H2Uhe24849 Subject: Flintlocks & American magazines FNeunemann@compuserve.com,JANSNOWRICHARDS@aol.com, Dennishigham@cs.com, jim@seahorses.com,seanmcs@ar.com.au, stuart.rod@gmx.de, jcooper@interalpha.co.uk,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu gwti@desupernet.net List,The people who were interested in the flintlocks and the American magazines could you please e-mail me off list. My computer did a major faux paus and deleted all your addresses and interests.Bret from dpeaston@wzrd.com Fri Feb 16 20:57:05 2001 f1H2v4e25826 , ,, Subject: Re: para 11 George, I think you've put your finger on it! Perhaps some casters have problemswith paras because they do not do a double haul. It real does wonders forline speed and loop control. It makes my paras feel sooo good! -Doug At 10:01 PM 2/15/01 -0600, nobler wrote:The modified parabolic is ideal for the double haul, once you get the rhythmof the action(s). I own no real fast tip rods, so have never tried to doublehaul with one.GMA Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from kurt.clement@usa.net Fri Feb 16 21:19:48 2001 f1H3Jle26397 mailer(34FM.0700.15B.01) on Sat Feb 17 03:19:41 GMT 2001 Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] f1H3Jme26398 Bill, I dropped the first glass candy thermometer within 30 min. Went out andbought a Taylor electronic cooking thermometer, LCD display, about an 8"probeon a 24" lead that I poke through the three holes in my vertical heat gunoven. Has a timer and a temp alarm built in. Plus I let my wife use it whenI'm not cooking rods. (She has forgiven me for dropping her candy thermo Ithink). Less than $20 at Target. Goes up to 400F. Kurt Bill Hoy wrote: I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use it horizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me from building a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout 150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just tested mine in boiling water and it only read 150*. ____________________________________________________________________Get free email and a permanent address athttp://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 from caneman@clnk.com Fri Feb 16 21:28:19 2001 f1H3SJe26737 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] Hope you don't mind if I make a suggestion (the engineer coming out in menow! LOL) Any thermometer you use, needs have a scale at least twice thetemp you want to measure. One that would read max of from zero to 800-1000would be ideal for a heat treating oven. I don't want to get into a longdiscertation on the details of why, but this is true of any scale. I knowthere are a couple of electricians out there, and when you use a mulitmeteryou do the same thing... if you want to measure 120 volts, you use the 250volt scale. All has to do with relative accuracy. Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [Oven, 826 epon] Bill, I dropped the first glass candy thermometer within 30 min. Went out andbought a Taylor electronic cooking thermometer, LCD display, about an 8"probeon a 24" lead that I poke through the three holes in my vertical heat gunoven. Has a timer and a temp alarm built in. Plus I let my wife use itwhenI'm not cooking rods. (She has forgiven me for dropping her candy thermo Ithink). Less than $20 at Target. Goes up to 400F. Kurt Bill Hoy wrote: I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use ithorizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me frombuilding a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just testedmine in boiling water and it only read 150*. ____________________________________________________________________Get free email and a permanent address athttp://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 from stpete@netten.net Fri Feb 16 22:04:09 2001 f1H448e27470 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:07:57 -0600 Subject: Re: Cutting circular recessed area in cork Andrew, Try a Forstner bit of the proper size for the hardware you are inserting.Forstner bits are available in a very good range of sizes and you will end upwith a flat bottomed recess if you don't need to go all the way through thecorkring. Cheap ones work fine with cork, don't splurge. Also, you can pick up avery useful drill press from Harbor Freight (don't throw too many stones - Iknow, I know...) for about $40-50 dollars!! It's a piece of junk as far as realdrill presses go, but it will work great for drilling cork, turning grips onmandrels, I've even made forms with mine (see T. Penrose's webpage!) ANDat$40-50 bucks, it costs less than many hand drills. Rick C. "Harsanyi, Andrew" wrote: Any suggestions on how to cut a circular recessed area in a cork handle toaccomodate a reelseat? I don't have a lathe or a drill press. I have used anexacto knife, but I would think there is a better way that requires lessmanuals dexterity and patience. One thought I had was taking a single ringof cork (more if necessary) before gluing the handle up and using a drill byhand to cut a hole in it to size. Is there a tool that can do this(something handheld with a circular blade)? Thanks, Andy from nobler@satx.rr.com Fri Feb 16 22:11:31 2001 f1H4BUe27752 Fri, 16 Feb 2001 22:08:17 -0600 , ,,"Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 The big thing is those used to fast tip rods, just can't wait for the wholerod to work, and deliver its full power ! After a little while, you learn tosense when that "tug" is coming, that tells you the back cast is ready ! That's about as well as i can describe it.GMA from cadams46@juno.com Fri Feb 16 23:29:20 2001 f1H5TJe29245 00:28:54 EST Subject: electric oven Just finished my electric hot plate oven. Thanks guys for thesuggestions, it turned out great. It's almost as much fun to build a new tool then it is to build a flyrod. Great feeling when you can standback and look at what you finished. In experimenting with my oven Ifound that with the thermostat I used it goes up to about 250* F thenshuts down. By the way so far I've had good luck with a smokerthermometer I picked up at Walmart for $15 it goes to 500*. Do you guys think 250* is a good temp? I could pretty easily rig it togo hotter, I think but it does seem to me that it would be ok. Thanks inadvance.C.R. Adams from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Feb 17 01:41:28 2001 f1H7fQe01636 f1H7ew028518; Subject: Re: hand plane advise Organization: vet Hello, danny If you say things like "you would like to shear" when you are in NewZealand, you'll find yourself up to your butt in sheep! Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: hand plane advise Don, I have been thinking of trying to make my own as well. My only problem isI've neverseen it for real. Have You made any drawings/plans You would like toshear? Best regardsdanny from piscator@macatawa.org Sat Feb 17 09:44:28 2001 f1HFiRe06312 , ,,, "Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 The first rod I built was a Para 14 (also found the taper for a para 13, ifanybody's interested ;^o) and I was sooo disapointed that the thing castlike a rug beater. Then I spent an afternoon playing with it with differentlines and put a TT 4/5 on it and slowed down (I was probably worn out bythis time!) and let the rod work. The rod started shooting line likenobody's business. At one time I was holding about 30' of coiled line in myhand while casting the rest, and shot everything but the last 5 feet of lineand was holding on to backing. I just stood there and giggleduncontrollably. I've been a paraholic ever since. Brian from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 09:48:29 2001 f1HFmTe06513 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:45:02 -0600 , ,,, "Douglas P. Easton" Subject: Re: para 11 Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 10:09:37 2001 f1HG9ae06892 2001 08:09:38 PST Subject: sanding block hi brett, i got my sanding block from you and amtickled. it's a little block. just what i needed. itis simple and to the point. i have a 1" wide ruler icut my strips with and i have been using it ever sinceit arrived. thanks again! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from thinair@townsqr.com Sat Feb 17 12:29:39 2001 f1HITUe08440 compaqwww.townsqr.com ;Sat, 17 Feb 2001 12:22:38 -0600 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built It has a 20/64 ferrule and 8/64 tip top. The entire rod is 8'9" and the tipis a few inches longer than the butt section. The story I have is thatYoung used the tip from a Para 20 for the rod. With an equal length butt,it would make a 9' Para 20. There are a few photos athttp://users.townsqr.com/abeged/cast.htm. I haven't been able to find outmuch about any other Para 20's around, however. Does anyone knowanythingabout such an animal? I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone's interested I can. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Other PHY Para Tapers? Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forward meacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from robert.warholm@home.com Sat Feb 17 14:30:51 2001 f1HKUoe10206 0800 Subject: Fw: para 11 I'll Second that request for the Para 13 taper - noting that up to thispoint thaere has resently been the discovery of a para 11 to add to the 14,15, 16 (another ? recient find/public listing) and 17. Watching this progression I think it is only logical that someone out therehas a, Dare I say, "Para 12 Taper" and how Knows what other 10,18 ... Just thought I'd see or am I way off base. Rob W.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: para 11 Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:25:24 2001 f1HLPOe11083 Subject: Re: Oven, 826 epon Bill,I don't see why you couldn't use the oven horizontally provided you haveenough air volume flowing through the oven. You can buy a pyrometer foraround a $100 that is very accurate. My understanding is that 826 is merelya less viscous version of 828, so it should be the same.M-D Having built a few nodeless rods, I'm finallly breaking down and buildinganeuneman-type tempering oven. I understand the chimney theory behind it, but is it possible to use ithorizontally. The same ceiling height restrictions have prevented me frombuilding a dip tube. Any recommendations for a thermometer? Meat thermometers only go toabout150-200*F. Candy thermometers are notoriously innacurate (I just testedmine in boiling water and it only read 150*. On a somewhat related subject, does anyone know the heat deflectiontemperature of 826 epon? My idea is to use it on splices, heat treat theuntapered strips so they have a higher deflection temperature than anun-heat treated blank using 828. The literature from the versamaticswebsite says that 828 heat treated vs un-heat treated gives about a 60*range to play with. I'm wondering whether 826 would give me a wider range.Does this make sense? Thanks,Bill from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:43:49 2001 f1HLhne11633 Subject: Re: para 11 Publish to the List, please.M-D Yes, I'd like the tapers for both the #13 & #14 please.GMA from jojo@ipa.net Sat Feb 17 15:47:39 2001 f1HLlde11851 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? Gary,Some of us collect tapers like we do bad habits, even if we would never usethem. Please mic the sections and post to the List.M-D ----- Original Message ----- I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone's interested I can. From: Fishnabug@aol.com Does anyone know if Mr. Young produced other Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Para tapers please forwardmeacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 16:07:18 2001 f1HM7He12304 2001 14:07:13 PST Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? i've been told by those who believe they're going somewhere in this life that all this stuff is a bad habit!timothy --- Jojo DeLancier wrote:Gary,Some of us collect tapers like we do bad habits,even if we would never usethem. Please mic the sections and post to the List.M-D ----- Original Message -----From: "Gary" I have a Young "experimental steelhead baitcaster" from 1948 that he built I haven't miked the tip section, but if anyone'sinterested I can. From: Fishnabug@aol.com Does anyone know if Mr. Young producedother Para tapers other thanthe 11, 14, 15, 16, & 17? If anyone has such Paratapers please forward meacopy. Best Regards,Dave Maxey ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Fishnabug@aol.com Sat Feb 17 16:40:33 2001 f1HMeWe13257 Subject: Tapers Collection --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some the other doesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary Gary, et. al. progressive rate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some theother doesn't have. I am specifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the TexasGeneral. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey --part1_72.7f2f713.27c057b8_boundary-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Feb 17 16:57:48 2001 f1HMvle13711 2001 14:57:49 PST Subject: Re: Tapers Collection that was 200 tapers or 200 bad habit? i'll stand mylist of bad habits up to anyones. as tapers go, i'mabit short of 200. i'm about to the point of notwanting anymore tapers. i'll have to build them all,you know. timothy --- Fishnabug@aol.com wrote:Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressiverate that I collect bad habits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see ifwe have some the other doesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I amspecifically interested in Mr. Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and17 and the others; Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rodand the Texas General. Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from dannyt@frisurf.no Sat Feb 17 17:51:13 2001 f1HNpCe14819 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Ferrule cement I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from piscator@macatawa.org Sat Feb 17 18:11:55 2001 f1I0Bse15238 Subject: hahahah virus This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0 HEY! Somebody just sent me the hahahaha virus. You should check your =box if you just sent me an e-mail about the para13. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0 about the para13. Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09916.00AAD5E0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 18:26:52 2001 f1I0Qpe15613 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:23:29 -0600 Subject: Re: Tapers Collection I'd sure like the taper for your Texas General, if it's the original 8.5'version I had 2 of once. The archives list it as a 9' or 9.5'.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 18:38:43 2001 f1I0che15928 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:35:24 -0600 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? You certainly have an amazing collection of PHY's work. Those varnishedwraps are sure "right on", as I bought a number of spools of that beigecolor from Paul. His commercial rods, stocked at a local sporting goodsstore in Dallas, all used that thread color, but they were color preserved.I really prefer the varnish filled treatment, as it's so much longerlasting. You'd do us all a favor by posting those tapers. I had one of his spinningrods about 1953, and caught some nice bass on it. It was the most parabolicof any PHY I've seen. GMA from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Feb 17 19:04:08 2001 f1I147e16510 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Danny,After you have the ferrule on the rod, put a double wrap of brasssnare wire (strong, flexible brass wire) around the ferrule with about afoot extra on both ends. Tuck the rod under your arm and, holding bothends of the snare wire pull it slowly down over the tabs, while rotatingthe ferrule gently above the alcohol lamp.The wire comes easily out of the excess cement, and the tabs have beenpushed tight to the cane.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Danny Twang wrote: I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny -- from Lazybee45@aol.com Sat Feb 17 19:40:36 2001 f1I1eZe17415 Subject: Re: Other PHY Para Tapers? In a message dated 2/17/01 3:48:40 PM Central Standard Time, jojo@ipa.net writes: yes YES YES! Addicted I AM!!!mark from RMargiotta@aol.com Sat Feb 17 19:49:48 2001 f1I1nle17795 Subject: Payne Model 204L Taper Speaking of tapers, does someone have the 204L taper (8'6" 3 pc for a 4 or5 wt) they'd be willing to post? Thanks. --Rich from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:20:36 2001 f1I2KYe18740 (62.188.143.155) Subject: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00 flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of the =reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00 restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or= pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BD02A4.0CF02A00-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:17 2001 f1I2bGe19349 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09953.7F754120-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:19 2001 f1I2bIe19361 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C09953.8D0C4220-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:23 2001 f1I2bLe19370 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09953.91123A00-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:26 2001 f1I2bOe19381 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09953.941DF360-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:29 2001 f1I2bRe19393 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C09953.9718E3E0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:32 2001 f1I2bUe19425 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C09953.998D8D60-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:34 2001 f1I2bXe19446 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C09953.9CB1B0C0-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:37 2001 f1I2bae19453 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09953.9FCE3300-- from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sat Feb 17 20:37:41 2001 f1I2bee19477 (62.188.156.77) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600 Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600 ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = pictures of the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me =knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C09953.A4B78600-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 17 20:52:47 2001 f1I2qke21392 Subject: Re: Steve Cook This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940 Is it my computer that is malfunctioning or yours?I just received 9 emails from you (repeat messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes . You might want to check it out. =If it's my system email me and let me know.ThanksTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940 Steve Is it my computer that is = yours? = messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes .= want to check it out. If it's my system email me and let me =know.ThanksTonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C098C7.02489940-- from lblan@provide.net Sat Feb 17 20:54:47 2001 f1I2ske21629 Subject: RE: Steve Cook This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0 Not your system, saw the same thing here.Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 9:50 AM Subject: Re: Steve Cook SteveIs it my computer that is malfunctioning or yours?I just received 9 emails from you (repeat messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes . You might want to check it out. Ifit's my system email me and let me know.ThanksTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0 your system, saw the same thing here.Larry Blan MillerSent: Saturday, February 17, 2001 9:50 = CookSteve Is it my computer that is = yours? messages)And I'm receiving one every 3 minutes= want to check it out. If it's my system email me and let me =know.ThanksTony =Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C0992C.29AA20C0-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Sat Feb 17 21:30:57 2001 (may be forged)) f1I3Uue22985 (5.5.2653.19) Subject: RE: low cost ferrules He's right. My first rod isn't my prettiest but it casts very well and I'veheard similar things from many others....Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: FW: low cost ferrules Hi Ken,contact Tony Young. His ferrules are great quality nickel silverand, with the exchange rate the way it is, they should work out to be prettycheap for you. You are in the States aren't you? The only downside I canthink of is that coming from Australia might take a little bit longer thanif you bought them in the States.As far as your first few rods being "more learning curve than art",I don't agree. If anything, you tend to be more meticulous with your firstrods as you are trying so hard to do everything just right. You'll lookback at that first rod for many years and it would be a shame for it to havecheap and nasty ferrules on it. I'll bet you never sell it either. Good luck Mike from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Sat Feb 17 21:32:04 2001 f1I3W3e23098 Subject: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my other rods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinny tipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 22:16:53 2001 f1I4Gqe24440 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 22:13:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Steve Cook It sounds like he's picked up some virus ! GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sat Feb 17 22:22:40 2001 f1I4Mee24756 Sat, 17 Feb 2001 22:19:18 -0600 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Often a section keeping a set, even after all the tricks in straightening,tends to lean toward too much tension in the binding operation. Get it tootight, and even the wet glue won't let it move. Most of the masters stayed with 2x2, or 3x3 stagger of the nodes, as Irecall. GMA from castafly@gbis.com Sun Feb 18 02:49:50 2001 f1I8nne00752 AAA05759 User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Anyone Have A Taig Lathe? I am thinking about getting a Taig Lathe to help with turning grips andferrule stations. Does anyone have one of these lathes? Are they adequate (about $250)? They seem close to a sherline, but for a much better price... Thanks! from dutcher@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 03:43:12 2001 f1I9hCe01986 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 01:43:08 -0800 Subject: Guide Size, Not Spaceing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60 Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of information onguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. I amsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean? Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a given linediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down the rodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is a lotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they are madeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60 name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010218T094328ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01C0994C.31074C60-- from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sun Feb 18 03:54:03 2001 f1I9s2e02354 +0100 Subject: PHY The Perfectionist This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0 Guys It is with a sad heart I have to ask for Your help.A good friend of mine has asked me to help himdispose of an original PHY Perfectionist. Being hospitalized with a terminal stomach cancer,Ken cannot do it himself. He is a man with a brave heart,and has asked me to help him finding a good home for his favoritrod. He bought it in 1979/80 direct from the PHY company.It is fished, but well cared for. The serial No. is in the4000 range, can be established at a later time. love to by it from Ken, but insist of paying a fair price, whichI perhaps cannot afford. If so, I shall do everythingpossible to sell it to a caring owner. regards, Carsten Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0 Guys It is with a sad heart I have to ask = help.A good friend of mine has asked me to= him Perfectionist. Being hospitalized with a terminal = cancer,Ken cannot do it himself. He is a man = heart,and has asked me to help him finding a= rod. He bought it in 1979/80 direct fromthe = company.It is fished, but well cared for. The = in the4000 range, can be established at a = time. dearly love to by it from Ken, but insist of = price, whichI perhaps cannot afford. If so, I shall = everythingpossible to sell it to a caring =owner. regards, Carsten =Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0999A.4FBEEDE0-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Feb 18 04:15:29 2001 f1IAFQe02966 f1IAFC081270; Subject: Re: Tapers Collection Organization: vet Dave All I can say is that you'd better not have had that Para 16 taper for morethan a couple of weeks, or Martin will come after you! :-) Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tapers Collection Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect badhabits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some the otherdoesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr.Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others;Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General.Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 18 04:56:03 2001 f1IAu2e03868 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Hi Danny, I use a product called ferrul-Tite (available anywhere archeryequipment is sold).I imagine it works the same with the Gudebrod. I heatit up and apply it to the ferrule station and a bit to the inside of theferrule. Heat and send it home and while still fairly hot roll myfingers around the serrations. If after it cools I am not satisfied withthe fit at the serrations I heat just the serrations and repeat. Alwaysclean the interior of the ferrule with alcohol or laquer thinner first.I have used it for years with no problems. Marty I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sun Feb 18 06:50:08 2001 f1ICo7e06041 (62.188.156.163) Subject: Re: Catfish & lathes (virus??) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380 List,Sorry about that chaps, my fault. In an effort not to tie up bandwidth, =the LAN server only sends 'priority messages out straight away. The =rest are spooled then sent out early morning. Nobodty told me of the =change. Hope it didn't cause to many worries. Cheers, SteVe Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 2:36 AMSubject: Re: Catfish & lathes Sent: Saturday, December 06, 1997 11:07 AMSubject: Catfish & lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) I've had to restore my =computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod and/or the pictures of =the reciprocating lathe, will they please let me know Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380 List, = tie up bandwidth, the LAN server only sends 'priority messages out = worries. Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook ; Rodmakers Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= AMSubject: Re: Catfish & =lathes ----- Original Message ----- SteVe Cook Sent: Saturday, December 06, = AMSubject: Catfish & =lathes flowing a power failure (of my own doing) = to restore my computer software.Who ever wanted the taper for the 9' pier rod = knowsorry about this Cheers, SteVe ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C099A9.22C17380-- from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 18 08:14:40 2001 f1IEEde08110 2001 07:14:40 -0700 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom;You are all set to learn how to scarf now. Take the 10" piece that brokeoff of the last tip and scarf it to the first one that broke at 6".Adjust your scarf position and guide position so the joint fals underthe second guide. I had the same problem with my first rod and it hasbeen fished hard for 5 yrs without any problems.John Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 18 08:20:42 2001 f1IEKfe08591 2001 07:20:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Dick;To me guide sizes are somewhat of a compromise between what looiks rightand what works right. I don't like the looks of oversize guides onbamboo rods at all, but I do realize that the line has to pass thru themeasily in order for the rod to cast right. I have settled on 8mmTitanium Carbide strippers with snakes going from size 2 at the largestto 2/0 at the smallest. a size 3 maybe wouldn't look too out of place ona 9'6wt, in which case I would stop at 1/0 before the tip. so far Ihaven't had any complaints about the guides choking the line and my ownrods seem to cast and shoot just fine.John "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of informationonguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. I amsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean? Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a given linediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down the rodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is a lotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they aremadeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from bydesign@cfw.com Sun Feb 18 08:56:59 2001 f1IEuwe09593 Subject: Ferrule removal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0 After botching a tip section for a 3wt rod, I would like to reclaim as =much hardware off the tip as possible for a newly planed tip. The =guides should not be a problem but I'm not so sure about the tip-top and =male ferrule which are epoxied-Devcon 2 ton. If I alternate heat and =cold would I stand a chance? Then there is the issue of cleaning them =too. Is this practical, are there other methods, or should I just punt, =let it be a learning experience and get on with a new ferrule? Thanks,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0 After botching a tip section for a 3wt = like to reclaim as much hardware off the tip as possible for a newly = ferrule? Thanks,RichYoung ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09991.39B450C0-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 09:28:19 2001 f1IFSEe10457 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 09:24:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing I don't know about the others, but because of the newer lines being so muchlarger in diameter, I have used the largest guides that won't make adifference in the action. As for stripping guide, if it's a 2 - pc. for an #8 line, I wouldn'thesitate to use a 9.5mm guide, which = 3/8". You are correct in yourthinking it seems, as this makes casting so much easier due to less linedrag. GMA from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Sun Feb 18 10:58:58 2001 f1IGwve12555 0500 Subject: attaching ferrules: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0 I find electrical straps work really well for this purpose, clean up most ofepoxy after pulling tight and let set. After drying clean up with acetone arazor blade. This method allows for epoxy to bind inside and betweenserrations. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0 Normal0DocumentEmail =0=0 I find =electricalstraps work really well for this purpose, clean up most of epoxy after =pulling tightand let set. After drying clean up with acetone a razor blade. This =methodallows for epoxy to bind inside and between serrations. Take care, =Tim. Signature" Upstream =Always, Tim Doughty Rodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods=.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C099A3.3EC523C0-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Sun Feb 18 11:26:25 2001 f1IHQOe13374 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from b2g@jps.net Sun Feb 18 11:33:06 2001 f1IHX5e13727 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Organization: Badges 2 Go Dick, This is the rule of thumb I use for my rod building. I use a size 8stripper for fly-lines for line weights 2 through 5; and a number 10stripper with line weights 6 through 9. For the number of guides I put onemore guide then the length of the rod in feet (this does not including thetiptop and stripper). For the size of the snake guides I make theprogressively larger form the tip to the butt. Here are some examples ofwhat works for me. 6' midge rod: tiptop, 4/0, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, #8 stripper6 1/2' rod: tiptop, 4/0, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1, 1, #8 stripper7' rod: tiptop, 3/0, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1/0, 1, 2, #8 stripper7 1/2' rod: tiptop, 3/0, 2/0, 2/0, 1/0, 1/0, 1, 1, 2, #8 stripper Hope this helps. Robert H. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Guide Size, Not Spaceing Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information on determiningthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount of informationonguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Am I wrong in assuming the line diameter is the determining factor. Iamsaying diameter not line weight because of the difference between PVC andsilk. Is the size of the stripping guide established first or is thesmallest guide on the tip established first. Stripping guides are usuallysized in millimeters, how are snake guides sized, i.e. what does 2/0 mean?Ifind that stripping guides only come in two or sometimes three sizes. Whatdo I choose? If it is determined what the smallest guide is for a givenlinediameter is it a matter of gradually increasing the guide size down therodto the stripper guide? What happens on shorter rods when it maybenecessaryto skip a guide size? Should the skip occur near the butt or the tip? Whathappens on longer rods that may require using the same size guide twice?Should the duplication occur near the butt or the tip? I know this is alotof question but, I also know there are a lot of good answers out there. Best regards,Dick After picking just the right taper and getting it all put together Ihate to just through on a set of guides. I am thinking the correct size ofguides must be as important as the placement or the material they aremadeof.Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Feb 18 11:37:08 2001 f1IHb7e13994 Subject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one time because the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on them and the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and has some pretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them. Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem? I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth I use on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 18 12:01:30 2001 f1II1Ue14988 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, here. Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 18 12:05:05 2001 f1II55e15223 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Oxidized ferrules Bret,Hit kmart or Wal mart and get some Tarnex. That won't completely cleanthem, but will remove most of the oxidation without removing any metal,thenmaybe you can get them polished out without compromising the fit.Someone told me about that years ago when i had a Heddon that had badlyoxidized males. It worked. Finished off with a VERY light hand buffingwith a product called Flitz... If you can find flitz, use it sparingly,because it won't look like it's taking off metal at all, then all of asudden, you have a loose fit... very pretty bright polished ferrules, but aloose fit! Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one timebecause the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on themand the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and hassomepretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them.Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem?I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth Iuse on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from piscator@macatawa.org Sun Feb 18 12:07:24 2001 f1II7Ne15409 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, with pin-tails. Tried corners, didn't like the look, tried flats nopin-tails, didn't like the look. I learned from Wayne, so I may be biased,but the transition zone just seems to flow from ferrule into the rod sectionthis way the best. FWIW. Brian from bydesign@cfw.com Sun Feb 18 12:45:19 2001 f1IIjIe16654 Subject: Ferrule removal -Thanks! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20 Thanks to all who responded-just finished and everything came off =without a hitch. I guess one ever really gets off the learning curve of =rodmaking. Thanks again,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20 Thanks to all who responded-just = learning curve of rodmaking. Thanks again,RichYoung ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099B1.251D1D20-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 12:53:32 2001 f1IIrVe17100 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 10:53:04 -0800 Subject: Re: Oxidized ferrules Hi Bret, I ran into this problem a few times and lived to tell about it, so far.First, use a cotton swab to apply a moderate amount of metal cleaner insidethe female ferrule. Give the chemicals in the cleaner a chance to loosen theoxidation. Second, Use a small round file (blunt end) or a wood dowel thathas been roughed up with coarse sand paper. Take 4/0 steel wool and starttounwrap the pad. Spin the steel fibers onto the file or dowel. Try not tobuild a taper around the file. I like to use a round file with no taper. Thefile holds the spun steel wool securely. Turn this reamer into the femaleferrule a few turns. Clean out with a cotton swab and repeat until the maleend fits properly. I always wax the male ferrule during the trials. All ofthe polishing is following the circumference of the ferrules and now the twopieces are being forced together at ninety degrees to the fine polishingserration's. The wax will give just enough lubrication to allow the twopieces to lap together through normal use. I hope this works as well foryou, good luck. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Grhghlndr@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 9:36 AMSubject: Oxidized ferrules List, I have taken in a rod that must have sat in some water at one timebecause the ferrules are oxidized. The male slides have oxidation on themand the females have oxidation in them. Now this is a spey rod and hassomepretty awesome looking ferrules so I do not want to have to replace them.Does anyone have a solution on cleaning the females out without ruiningthem?I have started to clean the males very carefully with a polishing cloth Iuse on the brass on guns when I build them. Bret from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 14:46:45 2001 f1IKkie20106 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:43:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, like PHY !GMA from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 15:08:39 2001 f1IL8ce20646 Subject: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 15:14:10 2001 f1ILE4e20856 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:13:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Reed's overmywaders.com site has a lot of these in his Herter's excerpts. I have made these into a pdf if anyone wants it. I will post some casting tapers from "Tournament Fly and Baitcasting" today.Bob At 03:18 PM 2/18/2001 -0600, Randy Zimmerman wrote:I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 15:23:39 2001 f1ILNXe21344 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:19:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I posted the Marinaro taper for a light lure casting rod. It was made forChas. K. Fox author of a book on light lure bass fishing mostly, in Pa.. If you can't find it, I'll dig it out of the book again.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 15:24:59 2001 f1ILOxe21493 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:20:56 -0600 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers I know I would Bob, and thanks for the offer.GMA from canazon@mindspring.com Sun Feb 18 15:26:04 2001 f1ILQ4e21622 Subject: re: guide size This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320 i have kind of the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk =line on my rod and am wondering if i should use smaller guides still ridin' the bus ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320 guides bus ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01C099C7.28DA2320-- from dnorl@qwest.net Sun Feb 18 15:31:36 2001 f1ILVZe22051 (63.228.44.153) " rod 'akers" Subject: Re: sanding block Brett,Still have some blocks?Dave-----Original Message----- Subject: sanding block hi brett, i got my sanding block from you and amtickled. it's a little block. just what i needed. itis simple and to the point. i have a 1" wide ruler icut my strips with and i have been using it ever sinceit arrived. thanks again! timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 16:02:33 2001 f1IM2Se22984 Subject: RE: Spinning and casting rod tapers Thanks a lot fellows! Do you suppose the lighter casting rod tapers would besuitable for spinning? I will check Reed's tapers, and would appreciate anyother leads you can think of...Randy from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Feb 18 16:38:13 2001 f1IMcCe23757 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 22:38:13 +0000 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Randy,I recently posted the tapers from 'Tournament Fly & Bait casting on thelist.I assume Bob is posting the same ones?I have also just completed and cast ( yesterday ) and fished ( today )the 'Fox' taper that George( thanks George ) was on about.For lightlures ( 1/4-3/8oz) it's a fine, forgiving tool.The Claude M Kreider book also contains several casting and spinningtapers......if you would like these let me know .Talk about being weird.......I live in the UK where lure fishing with aspinning rod is deemed weird.I am now fishing with those strange lookingrods( bamboo.....even weirder ) with a trigger grip and vintagemultipliers on top to boot !..........Paul Randy Zimmerman wrote: I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could find withthe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tell mewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I have thebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :) Thanks! from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 18 16:46:48 2001 f1IMkge24055 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Hi Danny, On the flats. Marty Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from zimmer@adams.net Sun Feb 18 16:52:05 2001 f1IMq3e24361 Subject: Re: spinning and casting rod tapers Paul, Bob, Et Al: Yes I think Bob posted your tapers, interesting howsimilar some of them are at first glance. I printed out the Herter's tapersthat Reed has on his website and they have sort of a "family resemblance".Maybe the casting tapers were never as highly evolved as flyrod tapers???Anyway thank you for the info...Randy from nobler@satx.rr.com Sun Feb 18 17:03:58 2001 f1IN3we24838 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 17:00:20 -0600 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Great, you show 'em Paul ! It's magic when you have a real balanced castingrod set up ! I'm glad your meeting sounds like it went well !GMA from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Feb 18 17:11:06 2001 f1INB6e25183 Subject: HAHAHA List,Guess what showed up in my e-mail today. the hahaha note. Of course Iam deleting it but it is being sent around again.bret from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 17:14:20 2001 f1INEEe25459 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:13:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers HI Paul:I bought the book after your initial post. It is great. I did not know you posted any more than the fly rods. Maybe you could repost? If so, thanks BobBob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 18 17:16:21 2001 f1INGKe25669 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 18:15:36 -0500 Subject: Re: spinning and casting rod tapers Hi Randy:Actually, I just sent them to you (I think). If anyone else wants them, maybe Paul would be willing to repost.Bob At 05:02 PM 2/18/2001 -0600, Randy Zimmerman wrote:Paul, Bob, Et Al: Yes I think Bob posted your tapers, interesting howsimilar some of them are at first glance. I printed out the Herter's tapersthat Reed has on his website and they have sort of a "family resemblance".Maybe the casting tapers were never as highly evolved as flyrod tapers???Anyway thank you for the info...Randy Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Sun Feb 18 17:40:26 2001 f1INeOe26471 (62.188.28.168) Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Hi Paul, It's not that long ago that spinning was considered weird here, never mindwith a bit of 'stick'. I've just spent a couple of hours this afternoonflinging a Colorado Spoon round, with 7' of greenheart and an old Fleetwing.Had a great time catching 2lb 'jacks'. The rest of the 'anglers looked asmiserable as sin, waving £1000 plastic poles around for a few of ounces ofroach. We could be the forerunners of a great new trend. Cheers SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Spinning rod and casting rod tapers Randy,I recently posted the tapers from 'Tournament Fly & Bait casting on thelist.I assume Bob is posting the same ones?I have also just completed and cast ( yesterday ) and fished ( today )the 'Fox' taper that George( thanks George ) was on about.For lightlures ( 1/4-3/8oz) it's a fine, forgiving tool.The Claude M Kreider book also contains several casting and spinningtapers......if you would like these let me know .Talk about being weird.......I live in the UK where lure fishing with aspinning rod is deemed weird.I am now fishing with those strange lookingrods( bamboo.....even weirder ) with a trigger grip and vintagemultipliers on top to boot !..........Paul Randy Zimmerman wrote: I noticed mention of a PHY spinning or casting rod taper. I have beensearching for some casting and spinning rod tapers...I find none in theRodmakers archives and there are very few mentions that I could findwiththe search engine. Would someone be able to provide some, and/or tellmewhere I might find some tapers? I would be forever indebted as I havethebug to build some casting and spinning rods (I know--its weird) :)Thanks! from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:25:27 2001 f1J0PQe27336 Subject: Re: Anyone Have A Taig Lathe? Yes, I have one. It is a great little lathe, especially considering the costof it, and the available tooling. The aesthetics aren't the best, especiallywhen compared to the Sherline, but you can't beat the price for theprecision it offers. You will need to open up the spindle hole in order toaccommodate larger rod sections, but that is about the only mod you *need*to make.M-D I am thinking about getting a Taig Lathe to help with turning grips andferrule stations. Does anyone have one of these lathes? Are theyadequate (about $250)? They seem close to a sherline, but for a much betterprice... Thanks! from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:32:26 2001 f1J0WKe27632 Subject: Re: Tapers Collection Peter,I was being kind to Dave, and assuming that he was referring to the 16 taperwhich I posted to the List. I even offered him the unknown PHY taper whichis in the Archives, and provided me by the Rev. Boyd, but he neverresponded. My kindness, however, does have its limitations. };^)>M-D Dave All I can say is that you'd better not have had that Para 16 taper formorethan a couple of weeks, or Martin will come after you! :-) Peter From: Fishnabug@aol.com Gary, et. al.I too collect tapers the same progressive rate that I collect badhabits. I'd be interested to compare notes to see if we have some theotherdoesn't have.At last count I had about 200. I am specifically interested in Mr.Youngs. I currently have the Para 11, 14, 15, 16 and 17 and the others;Driggs River, Perfectionist, Martha Marie, Boat Rod and the Texas General.Are there any you may have to add to this? Best Regards,Dave Maxey from jojo@ipa.net Sun Feb 18 18:40:22 2001 f1J0eLe27948 Subject: Re: Guide Size, Not Spaceing I would concur with John on what looks right, and what works. Don Phillips,in his book "The Technology of Fly Rods" has a nice illustration on page 75wherein he shows the relative relationships of 6wt and 8wt lines to a 2/0guide. There is considerable space available even with the 8wt line.M-D Dick;To me guide sizes are somewhat of a compromise between what looiksrightand what works right. I don't like the looks of oversize guides onbamboo rods at all, but I do realize that the line has to pass thru themeasily in order for the rod to cast right. I have settled on 8mmTitanium Carbide strippers with snakes going from size 2 at the largestto 2/0 at the smallest. a size 3 maybe wouldn't look too out of place ona 9'6wt, in which case I would stop at 1/0 before the tip. so far Ihaven't had any complaints about the guides choking the line and my ownrods seem to cast and shoot just fine.John "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Good morning List, I have been searching the List archives for information ondeterminingthe proper size guides to use. I have found a large amount ofinformation onguide placement but, nothing on what size of guide to use. Best regards,Dick from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 18 18:46:15 2001 f1J0kFe28176 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:45:28 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a little morecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the lastcouple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're not careful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away,Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftover strips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner or later,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Sun Feb 18 19:09:43 2001 f1J19de29081 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:12:56 -0500 Subject: RE: attaching ferrules: Hi Tim, the plastic straps used to bind wiring together. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: attaching ferrules: what is an electrical strap? timothy --- Tim Doughty wrote:I find electrical straps work really well for thispurpose, clean up most ofepoxy after pulling tight and let set. After dryingclean up with acetone arazor blade. This method allows for epoxy to bindinside and betweenserrations. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Feb 18 19:21:14 2001 f1J1LEe29530 Rodmakers Info Subject: Re: attaching ferrules: Tim, In New England we call them "cable ties".Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Tim Doughty wrote: Hi Tim, the plastic straps used to bind wiring together. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Feb 18 19:46:38 2001 f1J1kbe00400 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Organization: Same for me. Always the flats. Randall R. Gregory NW AR. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Flats, here. Bob-----Original Message-----From: Danny Twang Date: Sunday, February 18, 2001 11:27 AMSubject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from iank@ts.co.nz Sun Feb 18 20:30:27 2001 f1J2UPe01313 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom, Just to support Shawn's opinion ( and that is not to say two wrongs make aright). I had similar experiences with nodes snapping at final planning andflexing a few years ago. I was probably doing something wrong in my heatingand pressing. I now do not press the nodes. I file them at the stage ofroughing , then give them a sand for final flatness prior to final planning. Since doing this I have had no problems. The nodes may be a little larger inappearance, but not much , and it eliminates a step which has the potentialto create a major weakness in the rod. This weakness only becomes apparentwhen you catch the largest fish ever if the strip gets through the initialflex test. Ian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a littlemorecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the lastcouple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're notcareful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away, Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound,and deletednoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put agoodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. deletedWhat could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Feb 18 20:40:04 2001 f1J2e2e01685 Mail VirusWall NT); Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:31:24 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) "Roberts, Michael",rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: FW: low cost ferrules Hey, stop telling everyone to buy ferrules from Tony - he's building me arod and he's too damn busy to get to it. Don Burns Hi Don,What is the ID on the rod? I'll have to have a look at it before it getsshipped out. And please accept my most humble apologies for any delay Imayhave caused : )Stay luckyMike from piscator@macatawa.org Sun Feb 18 20:57:03 2001 f1J2uwe02243 Subject: Summer trip to Yellowstone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0 Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and Island =Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there or have =some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any suggestions = TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0 Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but= TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C099F6.43D968A0-- from cadams46@juno.com Sun Feb 18 21:03:37 2001 f1J33ae02568 22:02:54 EST Subject: Fly Fishing History Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loop andprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall. Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Sun Feb 18 21:26:27 2001 f1J3QQe03105 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History How long will it be in Utah? Any idea what the schedule is? Ray Wallace Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loop andprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall. Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Sun Feb 18 21:27:25 2001 f1J3ROe03202 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! Ian and Shawn, I think you're right about too much heat when pressing thenodes. All of my previous rods have been 8'+ 5-7 weights with fairly strongtips. The small diameter tip section probably revealed the flaw in my process! Thanks so much for the advice. I really learn a lot from you experts on theList Serv Tom from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Feb 18 21:33:03 2001 f1J3X2e03620 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I have only one thing to add. It's still the middle of winter and the air is very dry. Humidity is much lower than in the summertime so the nodes get ultra dry when you heat them and this makes them very brittle; so that when you "crush" them with the vise..... Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 08:48 PM 2/18/01 -0500, Shawn Pineo wrote:Tom,just my opinion here, but it sounds as if you need to be a little morecareful when heating and pressing your nodes, especially around the last couple onthe tip. I find they get real brittle on the smaller strips if you're not careful.Use the heat slowly and sparingly and I think your problem will go away, Shawn Tom Bowden wrote: I'm a beginner. My first six rods turned out good - structurally sound, andprogressively better in terms of minor glue lines and things like that. I'mreally having fun with this! And then I try a Cattanach 6' four weight taper using some leftoverstrips from previous rods. The butt section turns out good, but the first tipsection broke about 6" from the tip when I was sanding off excess glue(URAC 185 in my case). I figured that was bound to happen sooner orlater,so no problem, just build another tip section. Tip #2 broke in the samespot during the binding process. On my third attempt, I tried staggeringthe nodes closer together so I'd have no nodes in the first 10" from thetip. When I removed the binding cord and sanded the excess glue off, Inoticed that the rod kept a "set" near the tip when I bent it. I put a goodbend in it and - SNAP! Right at 10" where the nodes were. I'm using the exact same process that has worked before. I've even builtanother blank since the first tip broke, and it turned out good. So I don'tthink I have glue problems. The only thing that's different on the 6'- 4weight is the slender tip (.070,.074..079,.100) compared to my otherrods.The only thing I can think of is that the nodes on such a small diameterstrip are really weak. What could I be doing wrong? Are there any special processes for skinnytipsections? Any thoughts would be appreciated! TIA Tom from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 21:38:40 2001 f1J3cde03922 Subject: Re:Summer trip to Yellowstone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40 ago. The park has its own licensing system so you need to get a license =inside the park. You can fish the Firehole ,Gibbon,and Madison on the Saturday beginning memorial day weekend. The =Yellowstone(in the park)does not open until July 15th. According to the =regulations sheet they gave me. We fished the Firehole in late June. =Both times were Excellent! So much it inspired me to name one of my rods =the Firehole. I am used to fishing eastern streams so fishing the =Firehole was (all to easy). Fish the Firehole near were the little =Firehole enters it(just below it). Both seasons they hit little yellow =caddis (sizes 16&18) Take parachutes, olive and sulphur. I used a =Michigan pattern called a borcher drythat worked extremely well in size 14. Also did well on a olive pheasant =tail that I tie. My 13 year old daughter caught a real nice 17 1/2 inch =brown on a borcher dry. She was usinga 3wt fly rod with a 6x tippet (not bad eh). A lot of people were =fishing the Madison, but it was a little crowded. You will catch allot =of Rainbows around 12" to 14". Don't use any lead they have a NO LEAD =regulation. Hope this helped!Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40 I was at Yellowstone this last Summer = seasons ago. The park has its own licensing = need to get a license inside the park. You can fish the Firehole =,Gibbon,and Madison on the Saturday = memorial day weekend. The Yellowstone(in the park)does not open until = According to the regulations sheet they gave me. We fished the Firehole = June. Both times were Excellent! So much it inspired me to name one of = the Firehole. I am used to fishing eastern streams so fishing the = (all to easy). Fish the Firehole near were the little Firehole enters = below it). Both seasons they hit little yellow caddis (sizes 16&18) = parachutes, olive and sulphur. I used a Michigan pattern called a = drythat worked extremely well in size 14. = usinga 3wt fly rod with a 6x tippet (not bad= lot of people were fishing the Madison, but it was a little crowded. You = catch allot of Rainbows around 12" to 14". Don't use any lead they have = LEAD regulation. Hope this helped!Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09996.94DF9A40-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Feb 18 21:44:38 2001 f1J3iae04230 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! I'm bloody gun shy about computer virus lately having been struck severaltimes in the last couple of weeks but damn the torpedoes it's a sorry daywhen the maggots keep you off a list! It may be worth a try of just filing the nodes and not pressing them atall. There is enough confusion of fibers in the nodes as they are let alonedeforming them more by driving them into the spline further. Tony At 07:33 PM 2/18/01 -0800, Tom Bowden wrote:Ian and Shawn, I think you're right about too much heat when pressing thenodes. All of my previous rods have been 8'+ 5-7 weights with fairly strongtips. The small diameter tip section probably revealed the flaw in myprocess! Thanks so much for the advice. I really learn a lot from you experts on theList Serv Tom /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way. Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Feb 18 21:45:55 2001 f1J3jse04374 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement I use golf club epoxy to attach the ferrules. I put enough epoxy on the blank and in the ferrule so that when I press the rod into the ferrule, it overflows. If it is excessive, I wipe some away, but I leave a goodly amount of the "overflow. I have a bobbin with a spool of quilting thread in it. I start winding this around the serrations in the ferrule pulling it tightly to the rod. I stop and wiggle it to make sure it is seating with the tabs on the flats. When it is to tight to wiggle, I wind the thread so that it covers all of the glued area. I let it set and when the epoxy is set, I pull the end of the quilting thread and spin it away. I then take some fine sandpaper and a small file and prepare the ferrule for the wrapping thread. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 12:49 AM 2/18/01 +0100, Danny Twang wrote:I have some Gudebrod ferrule cement I'm going to try on some ferrules. How shall I get the tabs glued tight to the cane?I have trouble with it when I'm using epoxy and PU, and I'msure it's not easier with the cement with the short set up time......Any trick of the trade out there? TIAdanny from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:19:36 2001 f1J4JZe05384 Subject: Re:Fly Fishing History This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0 You must be referring to the American Museum of FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've been there too.It's really cool, they have just about every rod imaginable.Did they have the Baby Catskill (Leonard) at the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've ever seen. If you ever get a chance =to go to Vermont you should check it out. You can also see the Orvis =Main store and fish the Battenkill. And they have a great golf course =there set into the mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also go skiing =there too. Great little New England town. You would be surprised that =the museum is sort of small, but the gear they have is incredible. As = really old rods before 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in good condition (hold on to it). I =have thought of making a rod that had those, but they are not as =practical as snake guides and I'm not sure if there would be any =interest in them. But they look cool on a rod.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0 Ray You must be referring to the American= FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've = too. the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've = you ever get a chance to go to Vermont you should check it out. You can = the Orvis Main store and fish the Battenkill. And they have a great golf = there set into the mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also go skiing = too. Great little New England town. You would be surprised that the = sort of small, but the gear they have is incredible. As for the rods = the ring and strap for guides, that was common on really old rods before = 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in = (hold on to it). I have thought of making a rod that had those, but they = as practical as snake guides and I'm not sure if there would be any = them. But they look cool on a rod.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0999C.4FEF3AC0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:23:46 2001 f1J4Nje05602 Subject: Got the fever! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20 Sorry guys I don't mean to ramble ,but I have been making rods for two =months straight and today I got the fever to flyfish. I'm sure this must =be happening to some of you too!LOL So you know what I mean.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20 Sorry guys I don't mean to ramble ,but= making rods for two months straight and today I got the fever to = sure this must be happening to some of you too!LOL So you know what I =mean.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C0999C.E42D5D20-- from rmoon@ida.net Sun Feb 18 22:25:09 2001 f1J4P7e05732 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History Until May 4th Ralph Ray Wallace wrote: How long will it be in Utah? Any idea what the schedule is? Ray Wallace Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loopandprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall.Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 22:39:32 2001 f1J4dWe06301 Subject: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0 TonyHave you tried installing Norton antivirus?I have it in my computer and I've never got a virus yet.My Norton always catches it before it gets into the computer and allows =me to delete it. Also you can get online updated protection from new =viruses when you choose.It also allows you to scan your system for =viruses. I highly recommend it. Well worth the cost of the program.Just a suggestion. Hope it helps.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0 Tony antivirus?I have it in my computer and I've never= yet.My Norton always catches it before it = computer and allows me to delete it. Also you can get online updated = from new viruses when you choose.It also allows you to scan your system = program.Just a suggestion. Hope it =helps.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C0999F.1A612DC0-- from homessold@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 23:01:35 2001 f1J51Te07257 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:01:24 -0800 Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone FILETIME=[0299C200:01C09A31] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260 Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if they don't have what you =want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of your other =needs.Don Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:00 PMSubject: Summer trip to Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and =Island Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there =or have some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any =suggestions for a good guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260 Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if = all = other needs.Don ----- Original Message ----- Creek Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PMSubject: Summer trip to =Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but= guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C099EE.0DB36260-- from homessold@email.msn.com Sun Feb 18 23:04:31 2001 f1J54Ve07522 Sun, 18 Feb 2001 21:04:23 -0800 ,"Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone FILETIME=[6DD0CF50:01C09A31] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260 Brian, Sorry about that, the second web page is Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 9:02 PMSubject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if they don't have what you =want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of your other =needs.Don Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 7:00 PMSubject: Summer trip to Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, but we're going to be in Yellowstone and =Island Park, ID the first two weeks of August. Anyone live out there =or have some idea of what flies we need to start tying? Also, any =suggestions for a good guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260 Brian, Sorry about that, the second web page iswww.westyellowstone.com= ----- Original Message ----- Schneider Rodmakers Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PM Yellowstone Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.com if= all = other needs.Don ----- Original Message ----- Creek Sent: Sunday, February 18, = PM Yellowstone Hi Y'All, Sorry to get off topic, = guide? TIA Brian ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C099EE.76FC8260-- from jkcerise@rof.net Sun Feb 18 23:15:17 2001 f1J5FFe08180 Subject: Re: Summer trip to Yellowstone At 09:02 PM 02/18/01 -0800, you wrote:Brian, Checkout www.jacklinsflyshop.comif they don't have what you want, no one does. Also check www.westyellow.com for all of yourother needs.Don Brian,I 'think' Don meant to send you here:http://www.westyellowstone.com/ Have Fun! John from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 18 23:21:51 2001 f1J5Loe08535 Subject: Re: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20 Tony sorry it didn't help.Yes the Norton does have a online update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no =new updates at that time. And It reminds meto update every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn the computer on. I =think all that is adjustable settings.And I can scan whenever I choose also. Very handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virus problems =lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off list and let me know how much your =ferrules cost. And are they similar to Super Swiss? ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20 help. update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. = know if there are no new updates at that time. And It reminds =meto update every 24 hours. It also scans= the computer on. I think all that is adjustable settings. = handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , = the virus problems lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off = Swiss? flyfish@defnet.com www.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_012B_01C099A5.02DA7A20-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Mon Feb 19 02:23:53 2001 f1J8Nqe13395 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 00:23:49 -0800 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 08:23:48 GMT Subject: re: guide size FILETIME=[48C36C60:01C09A4D] From: "mike canazon" Subject: re: guide sizeDate: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 16:23:42 -0800 i have kind of the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk line on my rod and am wondering if i should use smaller guides still ridin' the busmike canazon Use the larger size guides, otherwise you are stuck with a rod made for silk only. Silk goes through large guides just dandy but... as many of us know a synthetic line does'nt go through the dinky guides worth a damn. I size my guides 1/0 to #3 on rods up through 8', 1/0 to #4 on rods over 8ft both with a 10mm carboloy, 3 wts (when I get talked into making one of the worthless things) get an 8mm strip and #2 to 1/0. Salmon / Steelhead rods get two strippers 12 and 10mm and #4 through #1 and a lg ring tip. Probably alot of western bias here, I don't care much if the rod looks 'pretty' if the line won't go out the end of the rod. When you have 6ft to go to get the fly to the hole on the stump stretch of the N. Umpqua and the ubiquitous rock ledge is at your back aesthetic considerations begin to pale.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from stevexcook@uk.packardbell.org Mon Feb 19 02:50:18 2001 f1J8oGe14023 (62.188.17.120) Subject: Re: Tony Young This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_016C_01C09A50.DB06EFE0 The free download from Computer Assocites does very much the same thing. Cheers, SteVe Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 5:19 PMSubject: Re: Tony Young Tony sorry it didn't help.Yes the Norton does have a online update.I'm able to update whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no =new updates at that time. And It reminds meto update every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn the computer on. I =think all that is adjustable settings.And I can scan whenever I choose also. Very handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virus problems =lately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off list and let me know how much your =ferrules cost. And are they similar to Super Swiss? ------=_NextPart_000_016C_01C09A50.DB06EFE0 The free download from Computer Assocites doesvery = same thing. http://antivirus.cai.com/= Cheers, SteVe ----- Original Message ----- Tony = Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001= PMSubject: Re: Tony Young help. update.I'm able to update whenever I choose.= know if there are no new updates at that time. And It reminds =meto update every 24 hours. It also = turn the computer on. I think all that is adjustable =settings. choose = handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list = all the virus problems lately,I thought others might =benefit.Buy the way, could you email me off = Swiss? flyfish@defnet.com = www.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_016C_01C09A50.DB06EFE0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Feb 19 04:26:22 2001 f1JAQLe15827 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:25:42 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Tony Young --------------1EB92FF2059724C422EAF432 Tony,I have Norton Utilities on my computer and I agree, it is awesome. Theonlyproblem lies is when you have more than one e mail account, then you mustmanuallyconfigure your e mail protection. I haven't been able to get that set up yet. Itis alittle out of my computer league ;^)Shawn Tony Miller wrote: Tony sorry it didn't help.Yes the Norton does have a online update.I'm abletoupdate whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no new updates atthat time.And It reminds meto update every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn thecomputeron. I think all that is adjustable settings.And I can scan whenever I choosealso.Very handy.I wouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virusproblemslately,I thought others might benefit.Buy the way, could you email me offlist andlet me know how much your ferrules cost. And are they similar to SuperSwiss?TonyMillerflyfish@defnet.comwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html --------------1EB92FF2059724C422EAF432 Tony, Utilitieson my computer and I agree, it is awesome. The only problem lies is whenyou have more than one e mail account, then you must manually configureyour e mail protection. I haven't been able to get that set up yet. Itis a little out of my computer league ShawnTony Miller wrote: Tony the Norton does have a online update.I'mable to update whenever I choose. It lets me know if there are no newupdatesat that time. And It reminds metoupdate every 24 hours. It also scans when I turn the computer on. I thinkall that is adjustable settings.AndI can scan whenever I choose also. Very handy.Iwouldn't have put this on the list , but with all the virus problems lately,Ithought others might benefit.Buythe way, could you email me off list and let me know how much your ferrulescost. And are they similar to Super Swiss?TonyMillerflyfish@defnet.comwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html --------------1EB92FF2059724C422EAF432-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Feb 19 04:31:30 2001 f1JAVTe16014 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:30:50 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: guide size AJ,that hurts!! ;^)Shawn Allen Thramer wrote:"3 wts (when I get talked into making one of the worthless things) get an 8" from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Feb 19 04:38:56 2001 f1JAcue16324 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:38:17 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: guide size --------------5C733992898B4E51D1AD788B Mike,I lean a little towards smallish guides on my light rods but would havetoagree with AJ, on larger rods and rods where distance becomes increasinglyimportantgo bigger.One other thing to keep in mind is that not all the new lines are big, theTriangle Tapers are actually pretty small once you get past the head. If youarethinking of using the new DT lines at a later time forget the small guides! Shawnmike canazon wrote: i have kind of the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk line onmyrod and am wondering if i should use smaller guides still ridin' thebus mike canazon --------------5C733992898B4E51D1AD788B Mike, littletowards smallish guides on my light rods but would have to agree with AJ,on larger rods and rods where distance becomes increasingly important gobigger. thingto keep in mind is that not all the new lines are big, the Triangle Tapersare actually pretty small once you get past the head. If you are thinkingof using the new DT lines at a later time forget the small guides! Shawnmike canazon wrote: the same question as richard. i am going to use a silk line on my rod and mike canazon --------------5C733992898B4E51D1AD788B-- from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Feb 19 04:40:11 2001 f1JAeBe16419 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History That Orvis is pre 1900 before snake guides. Built by CFO himself. Marty Today I went down to see the history of fly fishing show down at theUniversity of Utah and I mean to tell you guys it was great. It was atraveling show that is on loan here from some big fishing museum inVermont. They had 14 minutes of the Garrison Movie showing in a loop andprobally 50 bamboos from the early 1800's and up. First time I've everseen a Garrison. They also had a PHY Midge and a PHY that said Ferrule18/64ths on it. I assume that means in is a para 18 right?Oh and they had the whole bench out of Leonard's shop if I recall.Could have been another rod makers but that was really something thatthey brought in the whole bench with most of the tools and nessities onit.My point and the reason I bring this up is I saw an old Orvis rod downthere and instead of regular guides it had what looked to be ring andstrap hook keepers. Has anyone ever seen this? Why would you do that,it dosen't seem that it would save enough space to really help instorage. So if anyones in Salt Lake or if you hear about that show I'drun down and see it. A bargain at $4.C.R. Adams from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Feb 19 04:46:47 2001 f1JAkle16754 Organization: ProLog Subject: Polyurethane glue for ferrules. Hi List, Is anyone using Poly glue for setting ferrules? Sounds like itwould be good. The ferrules can also be removed easily with heat as thelable states heat resistant to 200F. Marty from zimmer@adams.net Mon Feb 19 05:42:11 2001 f1JBgAe17802 Subject: Re: virus protection In regards the previous discussion of virus protection, I upgraded mycomputer last week because of all the trouble we've been having. I havealways used Mcafee and upgraded to their on-line product "Activeshield". Theurl is http://www.mcafee.com/. Apparently I needed to do it as the scanfound 2 "worms" in my files. They were the "kakworm" variety, which thesoftware susequently erradicated. I have tried scans with other productsandhave never detected anything, so, I like this product. You can sign up for asubscription on-line and download at that time. Didnt mean to eat upbandwidth, but thought someone might want another option. I have nocommercial interest, etc., etc. RANDY ZIMMERMANzimmer@adams.netZIMMERMAN BROS., INC. SINCE 1915www.zimmermanbros.com from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Feb 19 08:06:13 2001 f1JE6Ce20417 Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Place the serrations on the corners of the hex and the tabs on the flats.Thus the cross section of the rod becomes "rounder" in that area and makesabetter looking rod wrap.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Ferrule cement Thanks for all the input.Here is an other one How do You place the tabs, on the apex like Garrison or on the flats likeWayne C? TIAdanny from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Feb 19 09:35:08 2001 f1JFZ7e24616 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:31:20 -0600 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History It sure sounds like a great show ! That type of guides really dates the timeit was made. Campbell's book has the dates I think, but I'm sure it's in the1800's, or very early 1900's.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Mon Feb 19 09:37:02 2001 f1JFb1e24756 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:33:13 -0600 Subject: Re: Rod #7 - Snakebite! from all I can gather, soaking the strips before planning, helps avoid suchnode failures too.GMA from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Mon Feb 19 11:02:19 2001 f1JH2Ie27871 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 12:00:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History I have a rod with those sort of guides that a friend gave me. It came fromhis father's estate. It's not in that good of shape, missing severalguides. Has a rattan grip on it. I keep it in my office and it is always agood conversation piece when clients stop by. I've been told by a localcollector that that type of guide was used in the 1880's and 1890's. Ihaven't researched it any further and don't know if I can determine who themaker was or not. I may have to followup on that one day. RegardsTim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History It sure sounds like a great show ! That type of guides really dates thetimeit was made. Campbell's book has the dates I think, but I'm sure it's inthe1800's, or very early 1900's.GMA from Canerods@aol.com Mon Feb 19 12:56:10 2001 f1JIu9e01230 Subject: Re: Tony Young --part1_33.10e13df7.27c2c61d_boundary The best way is to turn off automatic download of attachments to posts from the list. Don Burns --part1_33.10e13df7.27c2c61d_boundary The best way is to turnoff automatic download of attachments to posts from Don Burns --part1_33.10e13df7.27c2c61d_boundary-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Feb 19 14:14:36 2001 f1JKEWe04559 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Fly Fishing History This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C09A6B.0A2A5AE0 I spoke to the curator when I visited them and they can go to other citiesto display... I'd thought about getting a FFF club to sponsor one in the LosAngeles area, but I never followed through as I've got enough alligator nowto tend to... Darrell-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 8:17 AM Subject: Re:Fly Fishing History RayYou must be referring to the American Museum of FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've been there too.It's really cool, they have just about every rod imaginable.Did they have the Baby Catskill (Leonard) at the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've ever seen. If you ever get a chance togo to Vermont you should check it out. You can also see the Orvis Main storeand fish the Battenkill. And they have a great golf course there set intothe mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also go skiing there too. Greatlittle New England town. You would be surprised that the museum is sort ofsmall, but the gear they have is incredible. As for the rods that have thering and strap for guides, that was common on really old rods before 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in good condition (hold on to it). I havethought of making a rod that had those, but they are not as practical assnake guides and I'm not sure if there would be any interest in them. Butthey look cool on a rod.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C09A6B.0A2A5AE0 spoke to the curator when I visited them and they can go to other cities = display... I'd thought about getting a FFF club to sponsor one in the = Angeles area, but I never followed through as I've got enough alligator = tend to... Darrell MillerSent: Sunday, February 18, 2001 8:17 HistoryRay You must be referring to theAmerican = FlyFishing in Manchester Vermont. I've = too.It's really cool, they have just = = the show?That had to be the coolest rod I've = you ever get a chance to go to Vermont you should check it out. You = see the Orvis Main store and fish the Battenkill. And they have a = course there set into the mountains. If I'm not mistaken you can also = skiing there too. Great little New England town. You would be = the museum is sort of small, but the gear they have is incredible. As = rods that have the ring and strap for guides, that was common on = rods before 1870's.If you find a rod that has those in = condition (hold on to it). I have thought of making a rod that had = they are not as practical as snake guides and I'm not sure if there = any interest in them. But they look cool on a rod.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C09A6B.0A2A5AE0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon Feb 19 14:17:30 2001 f1JKHTe04802 Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:16:47 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Polyurethane glue for ferrules. Marty,I've done 2 ferrules on my personal rods with PU and no problems sofar!Make sure they are bound down good while drying though. Shawn marty wrote: Hi List, Is anyone using Poly glue for setting ferrules? Sounds like itwould be good. The ferrules can also be removed easily with heat as thelable states heat resistant to 200F. Marty from gwbarnes@gwi.net Mon Feb 19 15:18:30 2001 f1JLISe06864 Subject: Replacement Parts Just learned PAC BAY will not sell replacemnt parts for their reelseats. It's a whole reel seat or nothing. Thought others might like toknow. from darrell@rockclimbing.org Mon Feb 19 20:20:15 2001 f1K2KFe14796 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Fly Fishing History I've been browsing thru a book printed in 1869 and they talked of splitbamboo rods, loose ring guides and the like... Split bamboo salmon rods of 15-21 feet!!! Surprisingly many things haven't changed... The author is dissin' the baitfishermen... Darrell -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History I have a rod with those sort of guides that a friend gave me. It came fromhis father's estate. It's not in that good of shape, missing severalguides. Has a rattan grip on it. I keep it in my office and it is always agood conversation piece when clients stop by. I've been told by a localcollector that that type of guide was used in the 1880's and 1890's. Ihaven't researched it any further and don't know if I can determine who themaker was or not. I may have to followup on that one day. RegardsTim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Fly Fishing History It sure sounds like a great show ! That type of guides really dates thetimeit was made. Campbell's book has the dates I think, but I'm sure it's inthe1800's, or very early 1900's.GMA from piscator@macatawa.org Mon Feb 19 21:08:30 2001 f1K38Ue15976 Subject: Fw: Hexrod 7'9'' PHY Para13 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C09AC0.E5B4BEC0 Here's para13 taper. It is saved as PARA13 on on-line hexrod for 3 days ifyou want to play with it there. Just dont change the original! Sorry if this is not a good way to send this data. Tight (Glue) Lines,Brian ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hexrod 7'9'' PHY Para13 These are the tables you requested for rod 7'9'' PHY Para13 ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C09AC0.E5B4BEC0 name="hexrod.email221979" filename="hexrod.email221979" 7'9'' PHY Para13Detailed Design Numbers-- from Dimensions------------------------------------------------------------------------ Basic Rod Design Parameters: Ferrule #1: Size 13/64; Wt 0.271 oz.; Rod Dim 12.63/64 @ 47 in ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Stress Components at One Inch IntervalsPt Tip Line V&G Ferrule Bamboo Total Dimension F(b)1 1.34 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.01 1.35 0.069 =348432 2.69 0.01 0.01 0.00 0.02 2.72 0.070 =654583 4.03 0.01 0.03 0.00 0.04 4.11 0.072 =925554 5.37 0.02 0.05 0.00 0.08 5.53 0.073 =1164505 6.71 0.04 0.08 0.00 0.13 6.96 0.075 =1375356 8.06 0.05 0.11 0.00 0.20 8.42 0.078 =1501887 9.40 0.07 0.15 0.00 0.28 9.90 0.080 =1599948 10.74 0.10 0.20 0.00 0.37 11.41 0.083 =1675059 12.09 0.12 0.25 0.00 0.48 12.94 0.085 =17315910 13.43 0.15 0.31 0.00 0.61 14.50 0.088 =17730911 14.77 0.18 0.38 0.00 0.75 16.08 0.093 =16881112 16.12 0.22 0.45 0.00 0.92 17.70 0.097 =16060613 17.46 0.26 0.53 0.00 1.10 19.34 0.102 =15279814 18.80 0.30 0.61 0.00 1.31 21.02 0.106 =14543715 20.14 0.34 0.70 0.00 1.55 22.74 0.111 =13853816 21.49 0.39 0.80 0.00 1.81 24.49 0.113 =14294117 22.83 0.44 0.91 0.00 2.10 26.28 0.114 =14703718 24.17 0.49 1.02 0.00 2.43 28.11 0.116 =15085019 25.52 0.55 1.13 0.00 2.78 29.98 0.117 =15440120 26.86 0.61 1.26 0.00 3.17 31.89 0.119 =15771221 28.20 0.67 1.38 0.00 3.59 33.85 0.126 =14167522 29.55 0.73 1.52 0.00 4.05 35.85 0.133 =12812323 30.89 0.80 1.66 0.00 4.54 37.90 0.139 =11657724 32.23 0.87 1.81 0.00 5.09 40.00 0.146 =10666525 33.58 0.95 1.96 0.00 5.68 42.16 0.153 =9809626 34.92 1.02 2.12 0.00 6.32 44.39 0.155 =9971427 36.26 1.10 2.29 0.00 7.02 46.68 0.157 =10128828 37.60 1.19 2.46 0.00 7.78 49.04 0.158 =10281829 38.95 1.27 2.64 0.00 8.60 51.46 0.160 =10430730 40.29 1.36 2.83 0.00 9.48 53.96 0.162 =10575731 41.63 1.45 3.02 0.00 10.41 56.52 0.164 =10756432 42.98 1.55 3.22 0.00 11.41 59.16 0.165 =10934133 44.32 1.65 3.42 0.00 12.47 61.86 0.167 =11108734 45.66 1.75 3.63 0.00 13.60 64.65 0.168 =11280535 47.00 1.85 3.85 0.00 14.79 67.50 0.170 =11449636 48.35 1.96 4.07 0.00 16.05 70.44 0.173 =11375737 49.69 2.07 4.30 0.00 17.38 73.45 0.176 =11303738 51.03 2.18 4.54 0.00 18.78 76.54 0.178 =11233639 52.38 2.30 4.78 0.00 20.25 79.71 0.181 =11165640 53.72 2.42 5.03 0.00 21.80 82.98 0.184 =11099841 55.06 2.54 5.29 0.00 23.43 86.32 0.185 =11288142 56.41 2.67 5.55 0.00 25.14 89.76 0.187 =11475743 57.75 2.80 5.81 0.00 26.93 93.29 0.188 =11662544 59.09 2.93 6.09 0.00 28.80 96.91 0.190 =11848645 60.44 3.06 6.37 0.00 30.75 100.62 0.191 =12033946 61.78 3.20 6.65 0.00 32.79 104.43 0.194 =11881847 63.12 3.34 6.95 0.00 34.92 108.33 0.197 =11736048 64.46 3.49 7.25 1.08 37.14 113.41 0.201 =11708349 65.81 3.63 7.55 2.17 39.44 118.60 0.204 =11676150 67.15 3.78 7.86 3.25 41.85 123.90 0.207 =11640351 68.49 3.93 8.18 4.34 44.35 129.30 0.207 =12077752 69.84 4.09 8.50 5.42 46.96 134.81 0.208 =12520153 71.18 4.25 8.83 6.50 49.67 140.43 0.208 =12967154 72.52 4.41 9.17 7.59 52.47 146.16 0.209 =13418855 73.86 4.58 9.51 8.67 55.38 152.01 0.209 =13875256 75.21 4.74 9.86 9.76 58.39 157.96 0.212 =13893557 76.55 4.92 10.22 10.84 61.50 164.02 0.214 =13907958 77.89 5.09 10.58 11.92 64.71 170.20 0.217 =13918959 79.24 5.27 10.95 13.01 68.04 176.50 0.219 =13926960 80.58 5.45 11.32 14.09 71.48 182.92 0.222 =13932261 81.92 5.63 11.70 15.18 75.03 189.46 0.224 =14122962 83.27 5.82 12.09 16.26 78.70 196.13 0.225 =14310663 84.61 6.00 12.48 17.34 82.48 202.92 0.227 =14495264 85.95 6.20 12.88 18.43 86.39 209.85 0.228 =14677065 87.30 6.39 13.29 19.51 90.41 216.90 0.230 =14855966 88.64 6.59 13.70 20.60 94.56 224.09 0.234 =14611867 89.98 6.79 14.12 21.68 98.84 231.41 0.238 =14376768 91.32 7.00 14.54 22.76 103.24 238.87 0.241 =14150469 92.67 7.20 14.97 23.85 107.78 246.47 0.245 =13932570 94.01 7.41 15.41 24.93 112.46 254.23 0.249 =13722971 95.35 7.63 15.86 26.02 117.28 262.14 0.251 =13748372 96.70 7.84 16.31 27.10 122.25 270.20 0.254 =13773073 98.04 8.06 16.76 28.18 127.37 278.42 0.256 =13796974 99.38 8.28 17.22 29.27 132.65 286.80 0.259 =13820375 100.72 8.51 17.69 30.35 138.07 295.35 0.261 =13843276 102.07 8.74 18.17 31.44 143.66 304.07 0.259 =14550677 103.41 8.97 18.65 32.52 149.40 312.95 0.257 =15292078 104.75 9.20 19.14 33.60 155.29 321.99 0.256 =16068779 106.10 9.44 19.63 34.69 161.34 331.20 0.254 =16882280 107.44 9.68 20.13 35.77 167.53 340.56 0.252 =17734181 108.78 9.93 20.64 36.86 173.88 350.08 0.252 =18175782 110.13 10.17 21.15 37.94 180.37 359.76 0.253 =18622783 111.47 10.42 21.67 39.02 187.00 369.59 0.253 =19075084 112.81 10.67 22.20 40.11 193.79 379.58 0.253 =195326------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C09AC0.E5B4BEC0-- from piscator@macatawa.org Mon Feb 19 21:33:53 2001 f1K3Xme16618 "Richard R. Dutcher" Subject: Re: Hexrod 7'9'' PHY Para13 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C09AC4.6F7FFC20 Try word or note pad. ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C09AC4.6F7FFC20 pad. ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C09AC4.6F7FFC20-- from lblan@provide.net Mon Feb 19 22:57:28 2001 f1K4vSe18509 Subject: RE: virus protection Just another option, and one that doesn't require a cash outlay. InnoculateIT by CAI. www.cai.com It is free, and offers free updates. The updates to the vir.dat filesfeature a seamless install, literally click and forget. The have a network version they charge $$$$$$$$ for, but make the personaledition available free of charge. How well does it work you ask? I'm using MS Outlook (quiet Jerry) and havenot been infected once by any of the worms that have come our way thesepastfew months. Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu ZimmermanSent: Monday, February 19, 2001 6:52 AM Subject: Re: virus protection In regards the previous discussion of virus protection, I upgraded mycomputer last week because of all the trouble we've been having. I havealways used Mcafee and upgraded to their on-line product"Activeshield". Theurl is http://www.mcafee.com/. Apparently I needed to do it as the scanfound 2 "worms" in my files. They were the "kakworm" variety, which thesoftware susequently erradicated. I have tried scans with otherproducts andhave never detected anything, so, I like this product. You cansign up for asubscription on-line and download at that time. Didnt mean to eat upbandwidth, but thought someone might want another option. I have nocommercial interest, etc., etc. RANDY ZIMMERMANzimmer@adams.netZIMMERMAN BROS., INC. SINCE 1915www.zimmermanbros.com from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Feb 20 00:02:49 2001 f1K62le19987 Subject: RE: virus protection not practical for me to install an anti virus prog on my machine. Notsaying nothing will work but it's a hasle trying. I tend to use the siteLarry mentioned every few days as a result and it's picked up the reminantsof attached virus that while on my PC never infected it because they werenever run.It's free but it works well.Fingers X'd. Tony At 11:57 PM 2/19/01 -0500, Larry Blan wrote:Just another option, and one that doesn't require a cash outlay. InnoculateIT by CAI. www.cai.com It is free, and offers free updates. The updates to the vir.dat filesfeature a seamless install, literally click and forget. The have a network version they charge $$$$$$$$ for, but make thepersonaledition available free of charge. How well does it work you ask? I'm using MS Outlook (quiet Jerry) and havenot been infected once by any of the worms that have come our way thesepastfew months. Larry Blan /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way. Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from ttalsma@macatawa.org Tue Feb 20 06:48:25 2001 f1KCmPe23939 Subject: Re: virus protection Funny, I don't really think this list is where all of these viruses arecoming from. The only time I've seen the Anna K. virus is when someonehere at work can't get it through their head that they don't need toexecute the attachments with the .vbs extensions. Unless you need touse macros, there IS a way to disable your PC from even being able torun these attachments. Solves the problem straight away. If anyone isinterested in the how-to on that, let me know and I can post it. Tony Young wrote: not practical for me to install an anti virus prog on my machine. Notsaying nothing will work but it's a hasle trying. I tend to use the siteLarry mentioned every few days as a result and it's picked up thereminantsof attached virus that while on my PC never infected it because they werenever run.It's free but it works well.Fingers X'd. Tony At 11:57 PM 2/19/01 -0500, Larry Blan wrote:Just another option, and one that doesn't require a cash outlay. InnoculateIT by CAI. www.cai.com It is free, and offers free updates. The updates to the vir.dat filesfeature a seamless install, literally click and forget. The have a network version they charge $$$$$$$$ for, but make thepersonaledition available free of charge. How well does it work you ask? I'm using MS Outlook (quiet Jerry) and havenot been infected once by any of the worms that have come our waythese pastfew months. Larry Blan /**************************************************************************/ AV YoungVisit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way.Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi /**************************************************************************/ -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from piscator@macatawa.org Tue Feb 20 08:09:29 2001 f1KE9Pe25415 "danny twang" Subject: Re: Fw: Hexrod 7'9'' PHY Para13 Danny, No, I've never even seen one. The guide spacing for the rod is listed as: Butt from top of ferrule above welt 4.2513.2522.75 stripper Tip from bottom of slide 6 3/815 1/823.2530.537 1/842.54/64 tip top Thank Wayne for this. He gave me a xerox of a sheet with the taper. Didn'teven know I had it until I was sorting through things ths winter. Enjoy, Brian from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Feb 20 09:31:35 2001 f1KFVXe28440 Subject: Re: virus protection I didn't get any virus *from* the list, I was getting so many attachmentswith various virus because I'm on so many people's email lists who didinfect their machine which infected others who I was also on etc and Iwasn't convinced any software was 100% up to date with all of theattachments I was seeing I was afraid I would give one *to* the list.Considering how many people are on this listserv there are surprisingly fewvirus on it. I do work for a few places that are staffed by teen aged males. When Iphoned to tell one of the places what they were doing the kid I spoke totold me Anna K could give him anything she wanted. What hope have I? One comment I saw on this list about 10 days back was it's ok to open gifand jpg files. Strictly speaking it is but you need to know before clickingon it that it *really* is a graphics file and it's a bad practice to feelsecure thinking it's always ok. Windoze being the virus author's happy hunting ground that it is has lotsof back doors and a really neat one is to use a seemingly harmles filenaming convention.Depending on how the OS has been set up windoze may only report the firstpart of a file name if it detects a file extension it recognises.Possibly it's set so you'll always see the file's extension which is beterbut still not quite there.Very few have it set so you can see the entire file name including all fileextensions. This function is not always available depending on the program.What does all this mean? As an example you would see this *SAME* filereported in one of the following manner: Trap_for_young_playersTrap_for_young_players.gifTrap_for_young_players.gif.vbs Remember all the above files are the same file, just reported differently.No matter how many extensions you see the file is the same and has thesameeffect.So, you've got to ask yourself. Am I feeling lucky??? Tony At 07:44 AM 2/20/01 -0500, Todd Talsma wrote:Funny, I don't really think this list is where all of these viruses arecoming from. The only time I've seen the Anna K. virus is when someonehere at work can't get it through their head that they don't need toexecute the attachments with the .vbs extensions. Unless you need touse macros, there IS a way to disable your PC from even being able torun these attachments. Solves the problem straight away. If anyone isinterested in the how-to on that, let me know and I can post it. Tony Young wrote: not practical for me to install an anti virus prog on my machine. Notsaying nothing will work but it's a hasle trying. I tend to use the siteLarry mentioned every few days as a result and it's picked up thereminantsof attached virus that while on my PC never infected it because theywerenever run.It's free but it works well.Fingers X'd. Tony At 11:57 PM 2/19/01 -0500, Larry Blan wrote:Just another option, and one that doesn't require a cash outlay. InnoculateIT by CAI. www.cai.com It is free, and offers free updates. The updates to the vir.dat filesfeature a seamless install, literally click and forget. The have a network version they charge $$$$$$$$ for, but make thepersonaledition available free of charge. How well does it work you ask? I'm using MS Outlook (quiet Jerry) andhavenot been infected once by any of the worms that have come our waythesepastfew months. Larry Blan /**************************************************************************/ AV YoungVisit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way.Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi /**************************************************************************/ -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way. Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from gjm80301@yahoo.com Tue Feb 20 09:46:44 2001 f1KFkhe29045 2001 07:46:45 PST Subject: Re: virus protection Tony, One way to determine if a file is really a jpg or gif would be toavoid just clicking on it and instead opening your graphics softwareand try to open the file from there. If it is not a graphics file,it will come back unrecognized. Jerry --- Tony Young wrote:I didn't get any virus *from* the list, I was getting so manyattachmentswith various virus because I'm on so many people's email lists whodidinfect their machine which infected others who I was also on etcand Iwasn't convinced any software was 100% up to date with all of theattachments I was seeing I was afraid I would give one *to* thelist.Considering how many people are on this listserv there aresurprisingly fewvirus on it. I do work for a few places that are staffed by teen aged males.When Iphoned to tell one of the places what they were doing the kid Ispoke totold me Anna K could give him anything she wanted. What hope haveI? One comment I saw on this list about 10 days back was it's ok toopen gifand jpg files. Strictly speaking it is but you need to know beforeclickingon it that it *really* is a graphics file and it's a bad practiceto feelsecure thinking it's always ok. Windoze being the virus author's happy hunting ground that it ishas lotsof back doors and a really neat one is to use a seemingly harmlesfilenaming convention.Depending on how the OS has been set up windoze may only report thefirstpart of a file name if it detects a file extension it recognises.Possibly it's set so you'll always see the file's extension whichis beterbut still not quite there.Very few have it set so you can see the entire file name includingall fileextensions. This function is not always available depending on theprogram.What does all this mean? As an example you would see this *SAME*filereported in one of the following manner: Trap_for_young_playersTrap_for_young_players.gifTrap_for_young_players.gif.vbs Remember all the above files are the same file, just reporteddifferently.No matter how many extensions you see the file is the same and hasthe sameeffect.So, you've got to ask yourself. Am I feeling lucky??? Tony At 07:44 AM 2/20/01 -0500, Todd Talsma wrote:Funny, I don't really think this list is where all of theseviruses arecoming from. The only time I've seen the Anna K. virus is whensomeonehere at work can't get it through their head that they don't needtoexecute the attachments with the .vbs extensions. Unless you needtouse macros, there IS a way to disable your PC from even being abletorun these attachments. Solves the problem straight away. Ifanyone isinterested in the how-to on that, let me know and I can post it. Tony Young wrote: my PC it'snot practical for me to install an anti virus prog on mymachine. Notsaying nothing will work but it's a hasle trying. I tend to usethe siteLarry mentioned every few days as a result and it's picked upthe reminantsof attached virus that while on my PC never infected it becausethey werenever run.It's free but it works well.Fingers X'd. Tony At 11:57 PM 2/19/01 -0500, Larry Blan wrote:Just another option, and one that doesn't require a cashoutlay. InnoculateIT by CAI. www.cai.com It is free, and offers free updates. The updates to the vir.datfilesfeature a seamless install, literally click and forget. The have a network version they charge $$$$$$$$ for, but makethe personaledition available free of charge. How well does it work you ask? I'm using MS Outlook (quietJerry) and havenot been infected once by any of the worms that have come ourway thesepastfew months. Larry Blan /**************************************************************************/ AV YoungVisit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly andforget thetrue Way.Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi /**************************************************************************/ -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly andforget thetrue Way. Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Feb 20 09:57:53 2001 f1KFvpe29818 Subject: Re: virus protection That's right. The other is just delete all attachments with extremeprejudice if you're not expecting any. Tony At 07:46 AM 2/20/01 -0800, Jerry Madigan wrote:Tony, One way to determine if a file is really a jpg or gif would be toavoid just clicking on it and instead opening your graphics softwareand try to open the file from there. If it is not a graphics file,it will come back unrecognized. Jerry /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way. Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Tue Feb 20 10:37:17 2001 f1KGbEe01596 Tue, 20 Feb 2001 11:40:28 -0500 Subject: RE: virus protection Hi Tony, One way to over come viruses is to have anyone who sends you an e- mailattachment is to put today's date in the subject. By doing so you circumventattachments from e-mials use to transmit viruses. If you are not expectingattachments treat them as default viruses. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: virus protection That's right. The other is just delete all attachments with extremeprejudice if you're not expecting any. Tony At 07:46 AM 2/20/01 -0800, Jerry Madigan wrote:Tony, One way to determine if a file is really a jpg or gif would be toavoid just clicking on it and instead opening your graphics softwareand try to open the file from there. If it is not a graphics file,it will come back unrecognized. Jerry /**************************************************************************/ AV YoungVisit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget thetrue Way.Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from parataper@hotmail.com Tue Feb 20 12:59:27 2001 f1KIxLe07466 Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:59:18 -0800 HTTP; Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:59:17 GMT FILETIME=[39D96EC0:01C09B6F] Does anyone have an original 8.5' PHY Texas General taper they wouldshare? I'd like to see how it would do as a saltwater rod for Texas type fishing, or other sugestions would help. MP_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Feb 20 13:45:26 2001 f1KJjPe09386 Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:41:13 -0600 Subject: Re: It was given here yesterday ! I'll try to re-post it.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Feb 20 13:57:27 2001 f1KJvRe10057 Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:53:19 -0600 Subject: Fw: PHY Texas General taper The butt section under the handle was left out, and is .335", for the 8.5'rod.GMA----- Original Message ----- Subject: PHY Texas General taper Thanks to all who gave me input on this taper. My plan is to make it as a3piece, so if it stinks, I'll make a new mid with the offending swelladveraged out. Anyway, here is the taper. She's an 8 ft 2pc 7/8 wt. Overvarnish-you subtract (maybe 4-5 thou thick) from tip:1 .0915 .11810 .14415 .16420 .17025 .18930 .20535 .23040 .24045 .24449 .249 (50" under male ferrule)53 .268 (at base of female)55 .27660 .29365 .283 (?!)70 .29775 .31580 .316 (the PHY signature flat-ish spot of a para)85 .33090 .33591 .335 at handle- assuming .335 under cork.Handle is only 61/2". Rob Hoffhines from jfoster@gte.net Tue Feb 20 14:37:16 2001 f1KKbFe11864 Subject: Re: virus protection creator="4D4F5353" Tim, allhas anyone checked out Tim's site, http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/i think his server has screwed him up? jerry from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Tue Feb 20 14:58:43 2001 f1KKwhe13148 Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:02:05 -0500 Subject: RE: virus protection Hi Jerry, My apology for the web site, it is under construction as we speak. The webstore and links are not in place but we needed to put it up on the server totest work formats. When it is ready for lunch I will let you and the listknow, not looking for business blah, blah, blah. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: virus protection Tim, allhas anyone checked out Tim's site, http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/i think his server has screwed him up? jerry from rmoon@ida.net Tue Feb 20 15:00:24 2001 f1KL0Oe13318 Subject: Re: virus protection Jerry Foster wrote: Tim, allhas anyone checked out Tim's site, http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/i think his server has screwed him up? jerry Jerry i hope that there was not a virus there. It looks like hell!Ralph from jfoster@gte.net Tue Feb 20 15:16:42 2001 f1KLGfe14422 Subject: Re: Hardy Flylines creator="4D4F5353" Rodmakers with webpages I finally got my tools back and am going to update my site...so what.. one of the things i've noticed is a lack of titles on some of yourpages..or, appropriate titles:things like; home, my site, flystuff, etc,usually get deleted from my bookmarks. most page building programs giveyou a field to fill for this function. it might help your business a little, and your hit rate. meant to be helpful jerry from Millsx5@aol.com Tue Feb 20 15:41:51 2001 f1KLfoe15657 Subject: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to the list and I'm interested in obtaining information on where to purchase a Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills from DragonflyMAE@aol.com Tue Feb 20 18:03:54 2001 f1L03ce21828 Subject: ferrules --part1_82.71ec2c6.27c45fb2_boundary looking for ferrules --part1_82.71ec2c6.27c45fb2_boundary looking forferrules --part1_82.71ec2c6.27c45fb2_boundary-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Feb 20 18:08:58 2001 f1L08we22068 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Garrison 193 vs Midge List,I have two Midges lying in front of me split out,straightened/flattened,androughed out. I cut them a bit long, as experience has taught me not to temptfate andI was thinking I haven't made any of Garrison's tapers yet. I was debatingmaking oneof the tapers Garrison's 193 6' 9" 4 wt and one Midge instead of 2 Midges.This is one of the few rods I have never heard anything about (the 193)so Iwas wondering before I commit to it, if anyone knew any details of this rod orhadbuilt it??Yeah I know it's a short rod and that means I'll probably fall in love with itand have to keep this one....but I can't help myself!Shawn from DragonflyMAE@aol.com Tue Feb 20 18:11:02 2001 f1L0B1e22239 Subject: ferrule search --part1_a8.115f9fcd.27c46181_boundary Could anyone please help me find aluminum ferrules?I got a kick out of the black aluminum ferrules on a Paul Young Midge, and I would like to copy this rod for my own collection.Any info would be greatly appreciated.Matthew --part1_a8.115f9fcd.27c46181_boundary Could anyone please helpme find aluminum ferrules?I got a kick out of the black aluminum ferrules on a Paul Young Midge,and I would like to copy this rod for my own collection.Any info would be greatly appreciated. --part1_a8.115f9fcd.27c46181_boundary-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 20 18:47:24 2001 f1L0lNe23430 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:47:05 -0800 Subject: Re: Garrison 193 vs Midge f1L0lNe23431 Shawn, I've fished quite a bit with "a" Midge taper using a 4DT and have only lawncast a 193 with a 3DT. They each have their own unique feel in that theMidge has more strength in the top portion and is stronger at a longerdistance with it's parabolic type action flexing into the handle, while the 193is the more delicate (in my opinon) progressive/straight type taper flexingmore progressively toward the tip. Tom Smithwick recommended the 3 DT line with the 193 taper and that iswhat I used and feel it is a good match. The 193 casts nicely from 15'-40',and throws nice loops. The Midge taper works best for me at medium distances 0f say 20' to 50+'although I know others opinions may differ. I was always pleasantly surprisedat the strength of the Midge taper at say 45+', it really casts very nice forme at that distance. Make one of each. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu Shawn Pineo 02/20/01 05:11PM >>>List,I have two Midges lying in front of me split out,straightened/flattened,androughed out. I cut them a bit long, as experience has taught me not to temptfate andI was thinking I haven't made any of Garrison's tapers yet. I was debatingmaking oneof the tapers Garrison's 193 6' 9" 4 wt and one Midge instead of 2 Midges.This is one of the few rods I have never heard anything about (the 193)so Iwas wondering before I commit to it, if anyone knew any details of this rod orhadbuilt it??Yeah I know it's a short rod and that means I'll probably fall in love with itand have to keep this one....but I can't help myself!Shawn from dickay@alltel.net Tue Feb 20 18:59:35 2001 f1L0xYe24040 srv.alltel.net Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:59:33 -0600 Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Mike, Welcome to the List. Try Lowe's or Home Depot. I have seen them atthe local Lowe's. It is a block plane with an adjustable blade andadjustable throat.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message ----- Subject: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to the list and I'm interested inobtaining information on where to purchase a Stanley No. 9 1/2 blockplane.Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills from TSmithwick@aol.com Tue Feb 20 19:21:38 2001 f1L1Lbe24796 Subject: Re: Garrison 193 vs Midge Shawn - I am in basic agreement with Chris. I consider the Midge to be the better all around small stream taper, but the Garrison is really nice for fishing tiny flys in exacting conditions. Build them both, you won't be sorry. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Feb 20 20:00:19 2001 f1L20Ie25770 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Radium Springs, B.C. in June??? Hi list,a friend of mine is getting married in the later part of June in RadiumSprings, B.C, he has offered to fly me out and put me up if I shoot hisweddingpictures for him(good deal eh??)What are some good bets that time of year?? I know that the Bow isacouple hours?? from there, are there any other hot spots and what should Ibring forgear/flies??Don and Ron, that's out close to you isn't it??Sorry for the bandwidth,Shawn from Bambull@webtv.net Tue Feb 20 20:06:06 2001 f1L261e25994 (8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id SAA06867; Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:06:02 - ETAsAhQlrjckvhWB04ShwndSEXl4ljn3LAIUfQ4At3YA3JfL6xbgsa3Ec+Kzr+g= Subject: Garrison 193 vs. Midge Shawn, I think Chris and Tom hit the nail on the head with their responses.Being partial to small rods, the 193 was my favorite rod for years untilI built the Midge. Now I have two favorites. Each rod is unique and apleasure to use. But I can't say one is better than the other, justdifferent. I use a WF3 on the 193 and a WF4 on the Midge. I agree, you have to build them both. And while you're at it, try theSmidgen. It's as much fun as the other two. Al from Lazybee45@aol.com Tue Feb 20 21:21:17 2001 f1L3LHe27932 Subject: new rod taper. OK, I was at my fly tying class tonight and Doug, the guy who "owns" theroom (he is a physics teacher at a local High School and he allows us to use the room) and I have been discussing bamboo rods. He said he got one on thewest side of the Rocky Mts in Colorado for a decent price but it has no name on it, Ddown locking reel and all Cork grip and reel seat. Nice two piece of about 6' 3" and he is using 5 wt line on it. I tried it and it casts VERY nicely. We were casting in the hallway at the school, crouching down and angling the rod so it wouldnt hit the cielling or lockers. We were putting the line out 50-60 ft under these conditions. NICE feel! I measured it and this is what I got. NO Garuntees! But here is the taper Tip .0755 .082510 .1015 .11520 .1425 .16530 .17535 .1940 .1945 .20550 .2355 .2560 .26565 .285The balance is taken up by the butt and reel seat Overall length is 75.75 inchesThe ferrule is between 35 and 40 inch stations. How much do I deduct for finish? I really want to make one like this myself! Anyone have any idea of who might have made this rod?mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from flyfish@defnet.com Tue Feb 20 21:42:48 2001 f1L3gme28714 Subject: Re:new rod taper This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0154_01C09B29.7E2210A0 I would deduct at least .003 for the finish(if it was a varnishfinish) If it was poly, I might add another .001 Rememberthat there is finish on both flats(this is sometimes overlooked when =subtracting finish,the tendency is to onlysubtract one thickness)just a reminder. Like the time Icut the rod section twice and the dang thing was still too short LOL =(that's just a joke)The rod you describe, is there any chance it is a mid -tipbanty rod?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0154_01C09B29.7E2210A0 I would deduct at least .003 for the = was a varnishfinish) If it was poly, I might add = Rememberthat there is finish on both flats(this = only the time Icut the rod section twice and the dang= still too short LOL (that's just a joke)The rod you describe, is there any = mid -tipbanty rod?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0154_01C09B29.7E2210A0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Tue Feb 20 22:04:49 2001 f1L44me29438 Subject: Re:new rod taper This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0169_01C09B2C.93F13A20 the mid and the tip of a 9 ft rod. Allot of times that works out to make =a 6' 3" rod. But if it has two tips, it is probably not one of those. =However it had no name on it and it could of been made from a rod that =had two tips. But probably not in this case. Does the rod have rounded =corners or are the corners nice and sharp? I don't want to lead you on a =wild goose chase , new rods are also made in that length too. Another =thing that made me wonder is that the tip was larger than most new =makers make them. However there again I have a Orvis 6'6" that has =almost the same dimensions as the ones you posted.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0169_01C09B2C.93F13A20 Mark What I meant by Banty rod ( A rod that= from the mid and the tip of a 9 ft rod. = that works out to make a 6' 3" rod. But if it has two tips, it is = rod that had two tips. But probably not in this case. Does the rod have = corners or are the corners nice and sharp? I don't want to lead you on a = goose chase , new rods are also made in that length too. Another thing = me wonder is that the tip was larger than most new makers make them. = there again I have a Orvis 6'6" that has almost the same dimensions as = you posted.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0169_01C09B2C.93F13A20-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Feb 20 22:19:08 2001 f1L4J6e29891 2001 20:19:06 PST Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane the one you want from lowes is the stanley G12-020 oron the box the # is 12-920. it is about 29.00. this isreferred to the 91/2 by many. it is the modernversion. it weighs in more than the older 91/2 whichcan still be purchased from some catalogs. the g12-020is what i and many are using. if you want to upgradesomeday get the lei neilsen(sp) block plane for about150.00 or you can get the record standard block plane them need to be lapped. timothy --- Millsx5@aol.com wrote:Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to the listand I'm interested in obtaining information on where to purchase a StanleyNo. 9 1/2 block plane. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue Feb 20 22:26:02 2001 f1L4Q1e00237 2001 20:26:03 PST Subject: Re: new rod taper. mark, this is what you do: get a new note book andstart listing all the tapers you want to build. beforethe end of the summer you will have accumulated in thenote book your future life's work. ;-) are you sureyou want to put yourself through this? timothy --- Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:OK, I was at my fly tying class tonight and Doug,the guy who "owns" the room (he is a physics teacher at a local High School andhe allows us to use the room) and I have been discussing bamboo rods. Hesaid he got one on th ewest side of the Rocky Mts in Colorado for a decent pricebut it has no name on it, Ddown locking reel and all Cork grip and reelseat. Nice two piece of about 6' 3" and he is using 5 wt line on it. I ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from idinsy@global.co.za Wed Feb 21 06:37:23 2001 f1LCbGe07215 +0200 (SAT) Subject: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09C14.B7CEB470 Please take me off your list.Kind regards Ian Gornall ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09C14.B7CEB470 Please take me off your =list.Kind regards IanGornall ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C09C14.B7CEB470-- from ttalsma@macatawa.org Wed Feb 21 06:59:37 2001 f1LCxbe07596 Subject: Re: Hardy Flylines Very good point Jerry. The search engines look at both content -and- the page titles. If youhave a web site that you want to get the most hits from, you can makeyour page titles as long as you want. Though there is a limit to theamount of text that will show up in the title bar of the "window" (inquotes for you mac people) that your browser is opened in, a lot of webdesign newsletters that I receive are suggesting that you put yourkeywords in the title as well as in the meta- tags and the body of yourweb page. The more times you give the search engines your keywords, thebetter the search placement (to a certain extent of course). If you have any other questions, let me know. Jerry Foster wrote: Rodmakers with webpages I finally got my tools back and am going to update my site...so what.. one of the things i've noticed is a lack of titles on some of yourpages..or, appropriate titles:things like; home, my site, flystuff, etc,usually get deleted from my bookmarks. most page building programs giveyou a field to fill for this function. it might help your business a little, and your hit rate. meant to be helpful jerry -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 21 09:35:04 2001 f1LFZ3e11684 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:30:41 -0600 Subject: Re: ferrule search I seem to recall a brand called "Feather Weight", that was used often in the1950-'60 era. Their ferrules were all alum. ally, and came in black, gold,and natural alum., as I remember. I've no idea if they are still made.GMA from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 21 09:38:58 2001 f1LFcve11966 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:34:32 -0600 Subject: Re: Garrison 193 vs Midge There ain't nothing like a Midge", or some similar song !GMA from bhoy551@earthlink.net Wed Feb 21 10:23:20 2001 f1LGNJe14466 0500 Subject: Thanks Thanks, everyone who responded to my recent question about tempering ovens. I think I'm on the right track now. bill from bhoy551@earthlink.net Wed Feb 21 10:25:56 2001 f1LGPue14723 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:21:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Mike, If you are buying a G12-020, don't be afraid to take them out of the box to check fit and finish. I eyeballed four before I found one that seemed to be true in all directions and held the blade securely and square. I use mine seems to love to take very fine shavings. It's a little bigger than the classic 9/12 and doesn't fit my hand as well as the 9-1/2 or the 18, which is the knuckle joint version. I really like the 18. If you are into vintage tools like I am, ebay has scads of them for $15 up, but be careful of condition. Bumps and dings are alright if the mouth is clean with no nicks. Make sure all the adjustment levers are there and adjustments work. Some eras are more sought after than others, but Ipicked up a nice sweetheart era ('20s-mid 30s)18 for less than $25 last year. Good Luckbill At 08:19 PM 2/20/01 -0800, timothy troester wrote:the one you want from lowes is the stanley G12-020 oron the box the # is 12-920. it is about 29.00. this isreferred to the 91/2 by many. it is the modernversion. it weighs in more than the older 91/2 whichcan still be purchased from some catalogs. the g12-020is what i and many are using. if you want to upgradesomeday get the lei neilsen(sp) block plane for about150.00 or you can get the record standard block plane them need to be lapped. timothy --- Millsx5@aol.com wrote:Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to the listand I'm interested inobtaining information on where to purchase a StanleyNo. 9 1/2 block plane.Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from rsgould@cmc.net Wed Feb 21 10:53:42 2001 f1LGrfe16233 Subject: Aluminum ferrules This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09BE3.BF261780 I have a bunch of the featherweight aluminum ferrules (new) in black and =in gold of various sizes from 11/64 to 21/64". Contact me off list if =interested.Ray Gould ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09BE3.BF261780 I have a bunch of the featherweight = ferrules (new) in black and in gold of various sizes from 11/64 to = Contact me off list if interested.RayGould ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C09BE3.BF261780-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Wed Feb 21 11:27:21 2001 f1LHRLe17823 2001 09:27:22 PST Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane "rod 'akers" john, some use the 601/2 and like it. others believethe angle is too low for this work and will causelifting at the nodes. it has a 12* angle and the 91/2has a 21* angle. i have used a 601/2 that was mygrandfathers. there is no substitute for a sharp planeblade. timothy --- John Griffin wrote:I have an old Stanley #60 1/2; will it suffice? Tks, John ----- Original Message -----From: Bill HoySent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 11:28 AM Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Mike, If you are buying a G12-020, don't be afraid to takethem out of the box tocheck fit and finish. I eyeballed four before Ifound one that seemed to betrue in all directions and held the blade securelyand square. I use mine good control and itseems to love to take very fine shavings. It's alittle bigger than theclassic 9/12 and doesn't fit my hand as well as the9-1/2 or the 18, whichis the knuckle joint version. I really like the 18. If you are into vintage tools like I am, ebay hasscads of them for $15 up,but be careful of condition. Bumps and dings arealright if the mouth isclean with no nicks. Make sure all the adjustmentlevers are there andadjustments work. Some eras are more sought afterthan others, but I pickedup a nice sweetheart era ('20s-mid 30s)18 for lessthan $25 last year. Good Luckbill At 08:19 PM 2/20/01 -0800, timothy troester wrote:the one you want from lowes is the stanley G12-020oron the box the # is 12-920. it is about 29.00. thisisreferred to the 91/2 by many. it is the modernversion. it weighs in more than the older 91/2whichcan still be purchased from some catalogs. theg12-020is what i and many are using. if you want toupgradesomeday get the lei neilsen(sp) block plane forabout150.00 or you can get the record standard blockplane them need to be lapped. timothy --- Millsx5@aol.com wrote:Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to thelistand I'm interested inobtaining information on where to purchase aStanleyNo. 9 1/2 block plane.Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at greatprices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/Getyour FREE download of MSN Explorer at href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 21 12:59:32 2001 f1LIxVe21159 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:54:46 -0600 Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Be sure and compare with a Record before you buy !GMA from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Wed Feb 21 14:36:35 2001 (may be forged)) f1LKaYe25094 (5.5.2653.19) Subject: RE: new rod taper. I graphed this taper and it looks like a Phillipson taper. That's a Denver,Colo, company run by a former Granger-Wright/McGill manager. A photo ofthereel seat/grip and ferrules would help confirm that, there are much moreexperienced people than me on the list who could probably give you a prettyfirm opinion. Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: new rod taper. OK, I was at my fly tying class tonight and Doug, the guy who "owns" theroom (he is a physics teacher at a local High School and he allows us to use the room) and I have been discussing bamboo rods. He said he got one on thewest side of the Rocky Mts in Colorado for a decent price but it has no name on it, Ddown locking reel and all Cork grip and reel seat. Nice two piece of about 6' 3" and he is using 5 wt line on it. I tried it and it casts VERY nicely. We were casting in the hallway at the school, crouching down and angling the rod so it wouldnt hit the cielling or lockers. We were putting the line out 50-60 ft under these conditions. NICE feel! I measured it and this is what I got. NO Garuntees! But here is the taper Tip .0755 .082510 .1015 .11520 .1425 .16530 .17535 .1940 .1945 .20550 .2355 .2560 .26565 .285The balance is taken up by the butt and reel seat Overall length is 75.75 inchesThe ferrule is between 35 and 40 inch stations. How much do I deduct for finish? I really want to make one like this myself! Anyone have any idea of who might have made this rod?mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from horsesho@ptd.net Wed Feb 21 16:11:30 2001 f1LMBTe29263 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: new rod taper. The rod casts 50-60' very well but how does it cast at 5-20'? Thats themark of a good small trout rod! Marty I graphed this taper and it looks like a Phillipson taper. That's a Denver,Colo, company run by a former Granger-Wright/McGill manager. A photo ofthereel seat/grip and ferrules would help confirm that, there are much moreexperienced people than me on the list who could probably give you a prettyfirm opinion. Barry -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:21 PM OK, I was at my fly tying class tonight and Doug, the guy who "owns" theroom(he is a physics teacher at a local High School and he allows us to use theroom) and I have been discussing bamboo rods. He said he got one on thewestside of the Rocky Mts in Colorado for a decent price but it has no name onit, Ddown locking reel and all Cork grip and reel seat. Nice two piece ofabout 6' 3" and he is using 5 wt line on it. I tried it and it casts VERYnicely. We were casting in the hallway at the school, crouching down andangling the rod so it wouldnt hit the cielling or lockers. We were puttingthe line out 50-60 ft under these conditions. NICE feel! I measured it and this is what I got. NO Garuntees! But here is the taper Tip .0755 .082510 .1015 .11520 .1425 .16530 .17535 .1940 .1945 .20550 .2355 .2560 .26565 .285The balance is taken up by the butt and reel seat Overall length is 75.75inchesThe ferrule is between 35 and 40 inch stations.How much do I deduct for finish? I really want to make one like thismyself! Anyone have any idea of who might have made this rod?mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Wed Feb 21 16:49:10 2001 f1LMn9e01148 [204.253.245.34] (may be forged)) 16:41:21 2001 -0600 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: Plane Irons Have any on the list made any of their own plane irons? I have the means tomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (I work in a manufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been looking at what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of the air-quenched tool steels lookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyone ever use A2 tool steel forplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X 1.5" X 20" long, and canmike one of my hock blades to get the advancing slots spacing and overallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to 55 Rc. Any advice? from jojo@ipa.net Wed Feb 21 17:05:53 2001 f1LN5le02036 Subject: Re: Stanley No. 9 1/2 block plane Hi, Mike. Welcome.Try flea markets, and antique stores if you are interested in the olderversions.Martin-Darrell Greetings to the list. I just subscribed to the list and I'm interested inobtaining information on where to purchase a Stanley No. 9 1/2 blockplane.Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Mills from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 21 17:07:17 2001 f1LN7Ge02223 0500 Subject: Re: Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09BCC.29174B40 TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with no a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, then =made a tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutes =on a surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the =front page of my web page.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09BCC.29174B40 TroyGo figure I made my own! =LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I = with nomilling machine or surface grinder. = press and a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed = triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered = indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to = depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) = done it in a few minutes on a surface grinder. If you want to see a = there is one on the front page of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09BCC.29174B40-- from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 21 17:28:28 2001 f1LNSSe03104 0500 Subject: Re : Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09BCF.206B1C80 Troy sorry about that. You were referring to the Irons in the plane.I =didn't read your message all the way through.Thought you were talking about forms. High speed steelwould work if you can get ahold of it for blades. If you heat treat =steel doesn't really matter if you use air, oil or waterquenched steel as long as it gets to the right Rockwell hardness. It =might matter if you were using it for something different than plane = ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09BCF.206B1C80 Troy sorry about that. You were = Irons in the plane.I didn't read your message all the way =through.Thought you were talking about forms.= steelwould work if you can get ahold of it = blades. If you heat treat steel doesn't really matter if you use air, = waterquenched steel as long as it gets to = Rockwell hardness. It might matter if you were using it for something = Tony = ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C09BCF.206B1C80-- from caneman@clnk.com Wed Feb 21 17:33:06 2001 f1LNX1e03490 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_04ED_01C09C2C.1760FC60 Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice to =offer. Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for =the steel, I have never researched and don't know anything about what =kind of steel the Hock blades are made from, but they are definitely =superior to whatever it is that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very =anxious to see what you come up with! Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with no a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, =then made a tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few =minutes on a surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one =on the front page of my web page.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_04ED_01C09C2C.1760FC60 Tony, irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy, never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steel the = blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever it is = with! Later,Bob -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: = IronsTroyGo figure I made my own! =LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. = them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. = drill press and a hand file and a hand tap. Draw = triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered = dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to= depth.Draw filling took allot of time = done it in a few minutes on a surface grinder. If you want to see a = there is one on the front page of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_04ED_01C09C2C.1760FC60-- from Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Wed Feb 21 17:38:28 2001 f1LNcRe03921 [204.253.245.34] (may be forged)) 17:30:37 2001 -0600 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first try arelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you one fora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice to offer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for the steel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steel theHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press and a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, then madea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutes ona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 21 17:39:50 2001 f1LNdoe04079 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 19:39:04 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: new rod taper. Mark,I looked at the stress curves on this rod briefly before I went to workandthought that they looked familiar, then later in the day I remembered whereI hadseen a curve close to that!When I got home I checked and although not an exact match (I amallowing alittle for fudge factor here,sqinting a little and rounding some # ), the taperclosely resembles a the 6' 3" 4wt version of the Sir D with a heavy coat ofvarnishon it.The stress curve is close too, although the first hump is a little sharper,could this be some budding rod makers attempt at a Sir D (6' 3" 4 wt)??? Lazybee45@aol.com wrote: OK, I was at my fly tying class tonight and Doug, the guy who "owns" theroom(he is a physics teacher at a local High School and he allows us to use theroom) and I have been discussing bamboo rods. He said he got one on thewestside of the Rocky Mts in Colorado for a decent price but it has no name onit, Ddown locking reel and all Cork grip and reel seat. Nice two piece ofabout 6' 3" and he is using 5 wt line on it. I tried it and it casts VERYnicely. We were casting in the hallway at the school, crouching down andangling the rod so it wouldnt hit the cielling or lockers. We were puttingthe line out 50-60 ft under these conditions. NICE feel! I measured it andthis is what I got. NO Garuntees! But here is the taper Tip .0755 .082510 .1015 .11520 .1425 .16530 .17535 .1940 .1945 .20550 .2355 .2560 .26565 .285The balance is taken up by the butt and reel seat Overall length is 75.75inchesThe ferrule is between 35 and 40 inch stations.How much do I deduct for finish? I really want to make one like thismyself! Anyone have any idea of who might have made this rod?mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 21 17:43:04 2001 f1LNh3e04419 0500 Subject: Re: Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C09BD1.29BD0EE0 Sorry about that guys guess I should read the messages all the way = speed steel. I'm going look it up to see what the hardness is on HS =steel.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C09BD1.29BD0EE0 Sorry about that guys guess I should = messages all the way through LOL Troy I would try to harden the steel to= equivalent of high speed steel. I'm going look it up to = hardness is on HS steel.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C09BD1.29BD0EE0-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Feb 21 18:02:07 2001 f1M026e05444 "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: Plane Irons Actually the Hock tools site has some info on this.www.hocktools.com/steelrap.htm Some folks are definitely using A2 forplaneirons, including, I think, Veritas. Hock claims to get Rc62 from theirhigh-carbon steel. According to Hock, the trade off to be made is betweenhardness (which equates to holding an edge longer) verses brittleness.Harder steels are more brittle. For rodmaking, I don't see how brittlenesswould be a problem as it might be for typical woodworking applications wherethe iron can be expected to run into knots or whatnot that might chip theblade. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first try arelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you one fora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice to offer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for the steel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steel theHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press and a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, then madea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutes ona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 21 18:02:33 2001 f1M02Xe05509 0500 Subject: Re: Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C09BD3.E214E9C0 Just looked it up high speed steel after hardening and quenched should =be between Rockwell C-63 and C-65.After drawing, the hardness should be Rockwell C-64 and C-66.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C09BD3.E214E9C0 Just looked it up high speed steel = and quenched should be between Rockwell C-63 and C-65.After drawing, the hardness should be= and C-66.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C09BD3.E214E9C0-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Wed Feb 21 18:06:28 2001 f1M06Re05838 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Re : Plane Irons Last time this issue was discussed here, I asked a "machine friend"regarding this, and he suggested to weld on a strip of Sandvik scraper forthe edge....... Also if steel was cooled in thin oil after heating, the steel would be hardwithout brittle......... I know nothing about this, just refering to what he told me. regardsdanny from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 21 18:18:37 2001 f1M0Iae06360 0500 Subject: Re: Plane blades This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C09BD6.1F9F15C0 I think your friend is right to some extent. Thefaster you cool it down there is more of a tendency toput hair line cracks in the metal inturn making it more brittle.The thinner the oil the slower the transfer of heat. Althoughnot by much. ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C09BD6.1F9F15C0 Danny I think your friend is right to some = Thefaster you cool it down there is more = toput hair line cracks in the metal = more brittle.The thinner the oil the slower the = heat. Althoughnot by much.Tony = ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C09BD6.1F9F15C0-- from Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Wed Feb 21 18:21:55 2001 f1M0Lse06621 [204.253.245.34] (may be forged)) 18:14:08 2001 -0600 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Re : Plane Irons Was he referring to carbide? Reverend Harry has some blades like thesethatare too cool...... The oil quench that he was talking about would not be necessary with the A2steel, as you can air quench without deformation. My metallurgist isgetting me the optimal HT spec to achieve the best Rc. You're right, I willnot concern myself with whether the blade is brittle in this case, becauseI'm hoping to avoid impacts on it that would chip it..... Thanks for the advice -- TAM -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Re : Plane Irons Last time this issue was discussed here, I asked a "machine friend"regarding this, and he suggested to weld on a strip of Sandvik scraper forthe edge....... Also if steel was cooled in thin oil after heating, the steel would be hardwithout brittle......... I know nothing about this, just refering to what he told me. regardsdanny from Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Wed Feb 21 18:23:49 2001 f1M0Nme06853 [204.253.245.34] (may be forged)) 18:16:03 2001 -0600 (5.5.2448.0) "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: Plane Irons I've been on the Hock website before, but my internet connection is downpresently.... even carburizing for that matter), but then I would have to re-harden themevery so many sharpenings. This would not be practical if I were makingthem for someone else. They would have to send them back to be re- hardenedevery couple weeks. Hock has the right idea -- high carbon steel is the wayto go, even though you have oxidation to contend with. Don't know the exactchemistry/HT combination that he's using to achieve 62+ Rc, but thatexplains why they last so darn long once you get them sharp! Thanks to all -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Actually the Hock tools site has some info on this.www.hocktools.com/steelrap.htm Some folks are definitely using A2 forplaneirons, including, I think, Veritas. Hock claims to get Rc62 from theirhigh-carbon steel. According to Hock, the trade off to be made is betweenhardness (which equates to holding an edge longer) verses brittleness.Harder steels are more brittle. For rodmaking, I don't see how brittlenesswould be a problem as it might be for typical woodworking applications wherethe iron can be expected to run into knots or whatnot that might chip theblade. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first try arelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you one fora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice to offer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for the steel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steel theHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press and a hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, then madea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutes ona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from channer1@rmi.net Wed Feb 21 21:16:36 2001 f1M3GZe10599 20:16:31 -0700 Subject: Re: Plane Irons Troy;Go to Lie-Nielsen's site and see if they have any information about whattheir blades are made of. I have 2 Hock blades, one takes and holds anedge quite well, the other works me to death to get it sharp, then inabout 2 strips its dull again. I have grooved planes, so they nevertouch the forms. I bought a Lie-Nielsen rodmakers plane last fall and sofar the blade in it out lasts the Hock blades about 2-1 and I set itdown low enough to take a bit of metal with the last pass or 2.John "Miller, Troy" wrote: Have any on the list made any of their own plane irons? I have the meanstomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (I work in amanufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been looking at what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of the air-quenched tool steels lookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyone ever use A2 tool steel forplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X 1.5" X 20" long, and canmike one of my hock blades to get the advancing slots spacing and overallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to 55 Rc. Any advice? from saweiss@flash.net Wed Feb 21 21:39:05 2001 f1M3d4e11217 f1M3d4W181556 Subject: Re: Plane Irons Hock now offers cryogenically treated A2 plane irons.Steve Have any on the list made any of their own plane irons? I have the meanstomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (I work in amanufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been looking at what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of the air-quenched tool steelslookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyone ever use A2 tool steelforplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X 1.5" X 20" long, andcanmike one of my hock blades to get the advancing slots spacing and overallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to 55 Rc. Any advice? from jfoster@gte.net Wed Feb 21 21:40:52 2001 f1M3epe11366 Subject: Re: Plane Irons creator="4D4F5353" James I guess i'm quite sloppier than the rest..my plane sill bounces off myforms occasionally, not good on crystalline structures.. jerry from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 21 22:08:41 2001 f1M48fe12089 Wed, 21 Feb 2001 22:04:03 -0600 Subject: Re: Plane blades When hardening, salt water gets the metal hardest, but very brittle. Thisrequires annealing, which some steels may not accept. Next is plain water,then thin oil, and on to heavy motor oil, which is least hard. All of thesesteps require special annealing after hardening. In short, go buy a Hock blade and forget it, unless you have a foundry !GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Wed Feb 21 22:25:40 2001 f1M4Pde12570 2001 20:25:40 PST Subject: Re: Plane Irons LN will sell you a2 blades if you ask for them --- channer wrote:Troy;Go to Lie-Nielsen's site and see if they have anyinformation about whattheir blades are made of. I have 2 Hock blades, onetakes and holds anedge quite well, the other works me to death to getit sharp, then inabout 2 strips its dull again. I have groovedplanes, so they nevertouch the forms. I bought a Lie-Nielsen rodmakersplane last fall and sofar the blade in it out lasts the Hock blades about2-1 and I set itdown low enough to take a bit of metal with the lastpass or 2.John "Miller, Troy" wrote: Have any on the list made any of their own planeirons? I have the means tomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (Iwork in a manufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been lookingat what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of theair-quenched tool steels lookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyoneever use A2 tool steel forplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X1.5" X 20" long, and canmike one of my hock blades to get the advancingslots spacing and overallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to55 Rc. Any advice? ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from petermckean@netspace.net.au Thu Feb 22 04:17:16 2001 f1MAFte17414 f1MAEW032029; Subject: Re: Plane Irons Troy Unless you have an unlimited supply of the tool steel, you might think aboutsimply brazing an inch or so of the stuff to a less expensive base. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first tryarelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you onefora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 05:31 PM Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice tooffer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for thesteel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steeltheHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller > rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu >Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press anda hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, thenmadea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutesona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from petermckean@netspace.net.au Thu Feb 22 04:17:16 2001 f1MAG8e17419 f1MAG3032152; Subject: Re: Plane Irons Steven Unless you have absolutely unlimited tool steel here, you might like tothink about brazing an inch or so onto a piece of softer stock to conservethe expensive stuff. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Hock now offers cryogenically treated A2 plane irons.Steve Have any on the list made any of their own plane irons? I have themeanstomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (I work in amanufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been looking at what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of the air-quenched tool steelslookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyone ever use A2 tool steelforplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X 1.5" X 20" long, andcanmike one of my hock blades to get the advancing slots spacing andoverallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to 55 Rc. Any advice? from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu Feb 22 09:07:08 2001 f1MF77e22175 Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Subject: RE: Plane Irons Some woodworkers are brazing a carbide tip on their plane blades. A realbugger to sharpen but takes and holds a great edge for a long time,supposedly. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Troy Unless you have an unlimited supply of the tool steel, you might think aboutsimply brazing an inch or so of the stuff to a less expensive base. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first tryarelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you onefora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 05:31 PM Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice tooffer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for thesteel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steeltheHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller > rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu >Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press anda hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, thenmadea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutesona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from bamboo@pa.net Thu Feb 22 09:55:44 2001 f1MFthe24278 Subject: dipping devices This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09CBF.6651D720 Anyone have any recommendations on motors to be used for extraction from =finish ? Sources? Finishing cabinet ideas etc. Would love to hear =about them. Thanks Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09CBF.6651D720 Anyone have any recommendations on = Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09CBF.6651D720-- from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Thu Feb 22 11:44:17 2001 f1MHiGe29081 Subject: (no subject) Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from rmcelvain@uswest.net Thu Feb 22 11:49:42 2001 f1MHnfe29501 oemcomputer.uswest.net) (63.230.4.162) Subject: Re: (no subject) I copied (905) 689-0880 from the list about a year ago.BobAt 12:43 PM 2/22/01 -0500, you wrote:Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from martinj@aa.net Thu Feb 22 15:37:41 2001 f1MLbee09086 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:37:08 -0800X-Intended- For:rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Plane Irons carbide will take an edge anywhere as sharp as steel. It "will" holdwhatever edge you manage to put on it for quite a while though... Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Some woodworkers are brazing a carbide tip on their plane blades. A realbugger to sharpen but takes and holds a great edge for a long time,supposedly. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Troy Unless you have an unlimited supply of the tool steel, you might think aboutsimply brazing an inch or so of the stuff to a less expensive base. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first tryarelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you onefora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 05:31 PM Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice tooffer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for thesteel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steeltheHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller > rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu >Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press anda hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, thenmadea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutesona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from martinj@aa.net Thu Feb 22 15:41:00 2001 f1MLete09360 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 13:40:50 -0800 Subject: RE: dipping devices This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C09CD5.1353CCC0 I use a motor from a barbecue rotisserie. Nice heavy duty motor that runsabout $20 to $30 bucks retail and about $1.00 garage sale. I had to gear itdown so that I would remove at about 4 inches a minute though. Stock, withmy setup, it was too fast. Might not be with all setup's though. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 5:06 AM Subject: dipping devices Anyone have any recommendations on motors to be used for extractionfromfinish ? Sources? Finishing cabinet ideas etc. Would love to hear aboutthem. Thanks Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C09CD5.1353CCC0 a motor from a barbecue rotisserie. Nice heavy duty motor that runs = $30 bucks retail and about $1.00 garage sale. I had to gear it down so = would remove at about 4 inches a minute though. Stock, with my setup, it = fast. Might not be with all setup's though. Martin= TaylorSent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 5:06 = rodmakersSubject: dipping devicesAnyone have any recommendations on= Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C09CD5.1353CCC0-- from jojo@ipa.net Thu Feb 22 15:51:38 2001 f1MLpWe10162 Subject: Re: dipping devices This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C09CE6.347B97A0 Both Grainger and McMaster-Carr have geared motors in the $30 - $40 =price range, and a variety of speeds. I believe it is Grainger that has =the reversible motor. I use a motor reduced to 1 rpm with a threaded =pulley that winds the line at the rate of 4 ipm. The extraction rate is =subjective and dependant upon the varnish viscosity. Do your own math to =suit. The whole drying chamber/dip tube rig is a piece of 12" sewer =pipe, 13' long. I can do single piece 6' rods this way. M-D Anyone have any recommendations on motors to be used for extraction = from finish ? Sources? Finishing cabinet ideas etc. Would love to =hear about them. Thanks Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C09CE6.347B97A0 Both = McMaster-Carr have geared motors in the $30 - $40 price range, and a = speeds. I believe it is Grainger that has the reversible motor. I use a = reduced to 1 rpm with a threaded pulley that winds the line at the rate = viscosity. Do your own math to suit. The whole drying chamber/dip tube = way. www.mcmaster.com = M-D BillTaylor = Anyone have any recommendations on= Bill ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01C09CE6.347B97A0-- from jojo@ipa.net Thu Feb 22 15:51:46 2001 f1MLpee10174 Subject: Re: (no subject) Joe,Have you tried a search engine? Of course, this only works if they have aweb presence, in some fashion.M-D Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from jojo@ipa.net Thu Feb 22 15:51:52 2001 f1MLpbe10168 Subject: Re: Plane Irons I believe that the L-N blades are A2, or maybe it's AUS 8, and my experiencewith Hock and L-Nblades matches that of John's. Harry's carbide blades are quite the planingcat's meow. Harry, any word on the HSS blades from OZ? There are somefairlyexotic metals available, at great cost of course, that would make greatplane irons. They, too, would have a sharpening similarity to carbide. M-D Troy;Go to Lie-Nielsen's site and see if they have any information about whattheir blades are made of. I have 2 Hock blades, one takes and holds anedge quite well, the other works me to death to get it sharp, then inabout 2 strips its dull again. I have grooved planes, so they nevertouch the forms. I bought a Lie-Nielsen rodmakers plane last fall and sofar the blade in it out lasts the Hock blades about 2-1 and I set itdown low enough to take a bit of metal with the last pass or 2.John "Miller, Troy" wrote: Have any on the list made any of their own plane irons? I have themeans tomachine them, and experiment with heat treating (I work in amanufacturingplant for oilfield equipment). I've been looking at what might be asuitable steel to start with, and one of the air-quenched tool steelslookslike it might be easiest to try at first. Anyone ever use A2 tool steelforplane irons? I have a sample here that is .125" X 1.5" X 20" long, andcanmike one of my hock blades to get the advancing slots spacing andoverallshape. Will attempt to heat treat to about 52 to 55 Rc. Any advice? from rgelder@excite.ca Thu Feb 22 16:29:31 2001 f1MMTRe12150 0800 Subject: Re: (no subject) Had them bookmarked for planing forms.They are at http://www.spectranet.ca/grindstone/You know the spiel, no financial interest blah, blah, blah ....ron On Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:45:41 -0600, jojo@ipa.net wrote: Joe,Have you tried a search engine? Of course, this only works if they have aweb presence, in some fashion.M-D From: Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com _______________________________________________________Get 100% FREE email for life from Excite CanadaVisit http://mail.excite.ca from Mark_Dyba@hotmail.com Thu Feb 22 16:54:56 2001 f1MMrje13511 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 14:53:41 -0800 Subject: lathe =_NextPart_000_001F_01C09CEF.CC227160" FILETIME=[4D3A01F0:01C09D22] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C09CEF.CC227160 Dear Rod Builders:Can anyone give me the name of a lathe, not to expensive,that can be =used for rod building.regards, Mark ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C09CEF.CC227160 Dear Rod Builders:Can anyone give me the name of alathe, = expensive,that can be used for rod building.regards, =Mark ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C09CEF.CC227160-- from homessold@email.msn.com Thu Feb 22 17:47:51 2001 f1MNlQe15930 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:44:43 -0800 , Subject: Re: Plane Irons www.japanwoodworker.comThe unique feature of these Hock blades is the Cryogenic tempering process.After quenching, each blade undergoes a 40 hour process of being cooledto -320ŸF and then brought back to ambient temperature before being slowlyheated to +300F. The blade is then slowly cooled to room temperatureachieving a Rockwell C62 hardness. This treatment increases the steel'stoughness and wear resistance without any increase in brittleness. Theresult is blade which will hold its edge longer, so you can keep workinginstead of sharpening.No financial interest etc, etc.Don- ---- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons carbide will take an edge anywhere as sharp as steel. It "will" holdwhatever edge you manage to put on it for quite a while though... Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Some woodworkers are brazing a carbide tip on their plane blades. A realbugger to sharpen but takes and holds a great edge for a long time,supposedly. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons Troy Unless you have an unlimited supply of the tool steel, you might think aboutsimply brazing an inch or so of the stuff to a less expensive base. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Plane Irons Hi Bob -- Well, I know that the odds of turning out a great blade on the first tryarelow, but I have a metallurgist as a coach, and I think I'm on the righttrack. If I get a process to where I'm happy with it, I'll send you onefora pro's feedback...... Wish me luck -- TAM -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 05:31 PM Subject: Re: Plane Irons Tony,He's talking about plane irons (blades) not planing forms.Troy,Sounds like quite a task, and honestly, don't have any advice tooffer.Sounds like you have the right equipment and facilities. As for thesteel,I have never researched and don't know anything about what kind of steeltheHock blades are made from, but they are definitely superior to whatever itis that Stanley uses. I, for one, am very anxious to see what you come upwith! Later,Bob -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller > rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu >Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:08 PMSubject: Re: Plane Irons TroyGo figure I made my own! LOLI'll bet you didn't expect that. And I made them with nomilling machine or surface grinder. Just a drill press anda hand file and a hand tap. Draw filed them flat and drilled them, thenmadea tool from a broken piece of triangular60 degree file to cut the tapered groove. Used dial indicatorwith a home made aluminum base to calibrate depth.Draw filling took allot of time (days) could of done it in a few minutesona surface grinder. If you want to see a picture there is one on the frontpage of my web page.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html from dpeaston@wzrd.com Thu Feb 22 18:27:01 2001 f1N0R0e16928 Subject: Re: (no subject) At 12:43 PM 2/22/01 EST, Eastkoyfly@aol.com wrote:Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com Joe, It is:24 Mill St. N.Watertown, OntCanada LOR 2HO(905) 689-0880 -DougDoug EastonTonawanda, NY from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 22 18:55:54 2001 f1N0tre17575 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:54:17 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: (no subject) Joe,try http://www.spectranet.ca/grindstoneShawn Eastkoyfly@aol.com wrote: Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Thu Feb 22 18:57:32 2001 f1N0vVe17694 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:44:17 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: (no subject) Joe,try this: http://www.spectranet.ca/grindstone ShawnEastkoyfly@aol.com wrote: Does anyone have the # for Grind Stone Angler in Canada. T.I.A Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Feb 22 21:33:45 2001 f1N3Xie20899 Subject: Did I miss anything? Ooops,I've been wonderin' why I wasn't getting any mail fromRodmakers. I had begun to think no one had anything tosay. Then I decided, naaahh, no way the list is thisquiet. Did a little checking, and figured out I've beenoff-list for about a week. So, did I miss anything? Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from swilson1@whc.net Thu Feb 22 21:57:06 2001 f1N3v6e21421 ; Subject: hock plane blade order This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09D12.4FA41760 Has anyone that participated in Darrell Lee's plane blade order received =the blades (or at least heard from Darrell)? S. Wilson ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09D12.4FA41760 Has anyone that participated in Darrell= blade order received the blades (or at least heard from =Darrell)? S. Wilson ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C09D12.4FA41760-- from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Thu Feb 22 22:09:33 2001 f1N49We21778 Thu, 22 Feb 2001 23:07:10 -0500 Subject: South Bend #59 While with a client yesterday, he pulled out a South Bend #59 to show me andasked me to restore it. I haven't restored any rods and am reluctant to doanything to it but would like some information about the rod and what can bedone if anyone can help me. The rod is South Bend Model 59. It is a 9' / 3 piece with 2 tips. One tipis about 3" short. It has the original cloth bag. It was owned by hisfather, now deceased, and has sentimental value. His dad had it reworkedwhen the tip was broken. The replaced tip appears to be made for a spinningrod. I don't believe the wraps are original since they are about an inchlong and are orange with a yellow trim wrap. They are bright orange andyellow so I would suspect a color preserver was used. It was re-finishedbut the finish looks like it was dried in a dust storm. I'm assuming thenew finish is varnish. The blank visible below the guides shows theoriginal finish. What little you can see of the original finish appears ingood shape so I am not certain why the fellow that reworked it didn'tvarnish only the wraps. Also because the original finish can be seen belowthe guides, the rod was not dipped when refinishing. (Probably another clueabout the guy that did the restoration.) The stripper guide is not agateand the feet on the snakes do not appear to have been filed down so it is myopinion that all the guides were replaced when it was re- wrapped. As Iunderstand it his father had someone do the work a long time ago. I don't know when it was refinished but my first thoughts and advice to himwas to leave it as is since that is the rod that his father fished andprobably has more memories in the current condition. In my opinion if therod is restored then it will no longer be his father's rod if you understandwhat I am saying. Anyhow, he insisted that I take it with me and I feel an obligation to atleast find out more about the rod and what can be done to it. Whether I dothe work or not remains to be seen. I don't mind destroying my own stuffbut hate the idea of ruining someone elses particularly if it is one ofthese inexpensive, yet priceless to him, collectables. Any and all advice or information would be appreciated. Tim from avyoung@iinet.net.au Thu Feb 22 22:19:28 2001 f1N4JQe22168 Subject: Re: Plane Irons I contacted the mob doing these plane irons a couple of months back andspoke to them about the irons. At that point they had sent one to PeterMcKean on this list so hopefuly he could reply about that. He's havingproblems with his PC lately though so possibly he wont see this post but Ican say he found the carbide tiped irons impossible to sharpen though hedidn't have a green stone which is what you need. I'd say Peter was tryingto get an edge the same as the HSS iron which I don't *think* would havebeen possible.As far as the HSS tiped irons went they were only offering them in Englishmade 60 1/2. I explained to them they needed to make them for the 9 1/2forus which started a discussion as to the why of it all and they agreed tomake a run of them when the current stocks ran low. from what I was able to work out and based on Peter's comments to me theHSS seemed the best way to go. They achieve a better edge than carbide andwent plenty long before needing sharpening.Peter being a vet has a thing about very sharp edges and I have to agree. Ithink it's better to have a sharper edge that requires a little moreregular sharpening than an edge that is not quite as keen but hardly everneeds work. Never having tried the carbide iron though that's just theory.I know I prefer HSS cutters making ferrules than carbide ones for thatreason. I need to contect these blokes again and I'll let the list know what's up. Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from iank@ts.co.nz Thu Feb 22 22:24:21 2001 f1N4OJe22438 Subject: Re: Did I miss anything? And we missed you too Harry ..:)) It also dropped me about the same time , but it only took me a couple ofdays to figure out that these guys just could not be this quiet for thislong. Ian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Did I miss anything? Ooops,I've been wonderin' why I wasn't getting any mail fromRodmakers. I had begun to think no one had anything tosay. Then I decided, naaahh, no way the list is thisquiet. Did a little checking, and figured out I've beenoff-list for about a week. So, did I miss anything? Harry --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from mrmac@tcimet.net Thu Feb 22 22:57:26 2001 f1N4vQe23117 Subject: Re: Plane Irons Don't know if you can get this stuff in the right sizes to try to make aplane blade, but we use some stuff called CPM10V at work. I looked upit's properties and it sounds like it might do quite well for a longlife plane blade, though it might be hard to sharpen. Tougher thancarbide, with excellent wear properties. Probably a little pricey, buthey! we're all fringe around here, anyway. I mean, if we were, ya know,just making *fishing rods* it'd be a different matter, but......hey,let's go Hi Tech! CPM 10V is a unique tool steel made by the Crucible Metallurgy Process. Itis designed with atough, air hardening base analysis with added high carbon and vanadium forexceptionally goodwear resistance, toughness and strength for cold and worm work toolingapplications. The exceptional wear resistance and good toughness of CPM10V makes it aexcellent canidateto replace carbide and other highly wear resistant materials in cold worktooling applications,paticularly where tool toughness is a problem, or where cost effectivenesscan be demonstrated. Typical applications include: Knives for Slitters, Shearing, Trimming,Granulating, Pelletizing* Punches * Dies * Molds FYI - mac from piscator@macatawa.org Thu Feb 22 23:33:30 2001 f1N5XTe23824 Subject: Re: Plane Irons Make up a batch for old 9 1/2 stanley planes and send me one. I'll betatest it for free. Can probably sharpen it on my diamond stones. ;^) Brian from flyfish@defnet.com Fri Feb 23 00:08:14 2001 f1N68Ee24593 Subject: Re: Plane Irons This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09CD0.05FBE9E0 I'm gonna have to agree with Tony Young on this one.Carbide is hard to sharpen unless you have a special wheel.And even then it is tough. Also you might be able to get it sharp enough =but carbide traditionally cuts better(at least on metal) when it is =slightly dulled. On cane I could only guess.Also it would not be worth the hassle , I would just buy a high speed =steel blade . As far as hardening carbon steel,same thing to much hassle. I like a challenge, but I think this is just =easier to buy one in this case. I barley have time to build rods and =most of the tools, let alone harden blades LOL. You will spend more in =tooling to make your own blades and then still pay allot for the =material. If you have all the tooling and you plan to sell =blades(hopefully for a good price) then it might be worth the time . =Just my opinion, I Don't want to discourage anyone from trying new =things. I'msure a bigger company buys their material in larger quantities and that =allows them to sell their blades cheaper than we could make our own. =Correct me if I'm wrong, maybeblades are more expensive than I realize.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09CD0.05FBE9E0 I'm gonna have to agree with TonyYoung = one.Carbide is hard to sharpen unless you = special wheel.And even then it is tough. Also you = to get it sharp enough but carbide traditionally cuts better(at least on = when it is slightly dulled. On cane I could only guess.Also it would not be worth the hassle ,= steel,same thing to much hassle. I like a = I think this is just easier to buy one in this case. I barley have time = rods and most of the tools, let alone harden blades LOL. You will spend = tooling to make your own blades and then still pay allot for the = you have all the tooling and you plan to sell blades(hopefully for a = discourage anyone from trying new things. I'msure a bigger company buys their = quantities and that allows them to sell their blades cheaper than we = our own. Correct me if I'm wrong, maybe realize.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C09CD0.05FBE9E0-- from bh887@lafn.org Fri Feb 23 04:05:53 2001 f1NA5qe27087 Subject: Re: South Bend #59 Don't have a #59, Tim, but I do have a #359 in what I believe is originalcondition. The difference is that the #59 is a bass action and the #359 isa dry fly action, according to South Bend, at least. My rod is nicelyvarnished, guide feet are properly tapered, and the wraps are a deep maroonin color, no tipping, and well varnished. The cork grip is made up ofbeveled rings, and there is a thumb flat on the end of the grip. Theoriginal label is still on the flat, which makes me think the rod isunfished. The rod is three piece with two tips and 8 1/2 feet. Both mytips are the same length. I understand what you are saying about leaving the rod in the condition hisfather fished it. Restoring it would not be fully possible with the shorttip anyway. Suppose it all depends on whether he is paying you for it, inwhich case I guess you have to do what he asks. If it is as a favor, do thebest you can to point out the inconsistency of changing his father's rod. Lee----- Original Message ----- Subject: South Bend #59 While with a client yesterday, he pulled out a South Bend #59 to show meandasked me to restore it. I haven't restored any rods and am reluctant todoanything to it but would like some information about the rod and what canbedone if anyone can help me. The rod is South Bend Model 59. It is a 9' / 3 piece with 2 tips. Onetipis about 3" short. It has the original cloth bag. It was owned by hisfather, now deceased, and has sentimental value. His dad had it reworkedwhen the tip was broken. The replaced tip appears to be made for aspinningrod. I don't believe the wraps are original since they are about an inchlong and are orange with a yellow trim wrap. They are bright orange andyellow so I would suspect a color preserver was used. It was re-finishedbut the finish looks like it was dried in a dust storm. I'm assuming thenew finish is varnish. The blank visible below the guides shows theoriginal finish. What little you can see of the original finish appearsingood shape so I am not certain why the fellow that reworked it didn'tvarnish only the wraps. Also because the original finish can be seenbelowthe guides, the rod was not dipped when refinishing. (Probably anotherclueabout the guy that did the restoration.) The stripper guide is not agateand the feet on the snakes do not appear to have been filed down so it ismyopinion that all the guides were replaced when it was re- wrapped. As Iunderstand it his father had someone do the work a long time ago. I don't know when it was refinished but my first thoughts and advice tohimwas to leave it as is since that is the rod that his father fished andprobably has more memories in the current condition. In my opinion if therod is restored then it will no longer be his father's rod if youunderstandwhat I am saying. Anyhow, he insisted that I take it with me and I feel an obligation to atleast find out more about the rod and what can be done to it. Whether Idothe work or not remains to be seen. I don't mind destroying my own stuffbut hate the idea of ruining someone elses particularly if it is one ofthese inexpensive, yet priceless to him, collectables. Any and all advice or information would be appreciated. Tim from petermckean@netspace.net.au Fri Feb 23 04:28:14 2001 f1NASDe27404 f1NAS9041603; Subject: Re: Plane Irons Hello Tony and others You're right , Tony, about the plane irons from Woodworks Book & Tool. They a couple of their HSS irons for the Stanley. I sharpen my plane irons on a set of Japanese waterstones (800, 1200,6000,and 8000 used serially, the last with a Nawara rubbing stone) and yes, I dolike them sharp! If I can't get a perfect, distortion-free reflection ofwhat in my case passes for a face in the bevelled surface, I start again. I mostly use irons from Gary Hock, and I like them very much - in fact, theyare at this point my favourites, both to sharpen and to use. However, I am also most impressed with the Woodworks HSS item. It waspossible for me to sharpen with my existing tools, got as sharp as any steelI have ever tried in tools, and holds an edge through final planing anentire rod if you are lucky, careful, and been living a moderately cleanlife of late! Mind you, I have my strips pretty close to final tolerancesbefore starting what I euphemistically term "final planing" so I am probablybeing a bit over-enthusiastic there. Why am I not more enthusiastic about these irons? Well, I have them only tofit my Stanley 9 1/2 block plane at this point, and I think it is a bloodyawful plane for anything other than rough planing. Woodworks at this timehave no HSS irons available for the Record, which I think is a beautifulplane, and the one I use for nearly all my finishing work (the "nearly"reflects the lucky fact that I have a Lie-Nielsen scraping plane which alsocomes in for a fair bit of use in the final preparation stages). So until I can evaluate their relative performance in the Record, I cannotsay whether I think they are as good as the Hock product - but they arebloody good nevertheless. Tony, I don't know what was wrong with my damned computer! Well, I DO,actually, but I know you are less than supportive of the theory of DivineIntervention. However, my conviction is that the supreme being has simplybroadened his options a bit and is now banning ops on the whole shootingmatch, and not only on the scanner! An humble theory, but it satisfies allthe parameters of the puzzle, and it fills a sort of an inner need withinme. Stay happy Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Plane Irons I contacted the mob doing these plane irons a couple of months back andspoke to them about the irons. At that point they had sent one to PeterMcKean on this list so hopefuly he could reply about that. He's havingproblems with his PC lately though so possibly he wont see this post but Ican say he found the carbide tiped irons impossible to sharpen though hedidn't have a green stone which is what you need. I'd say Peter was tryingto get an edge the same as the HSS iron which I don't *think* would havebeen possible.As far as the HSS tiped irons went they were only offering them in Englishmade 60 1/2. I explained to them they needed to make them for the 9 1/2forus which started a discussion as to the why of it all and they agreed tomake a run of them when the current stocks ran low. from what I was able to work out and based on Peter's comments to metheHSS seemed the best way to go. They achieve a better edge than carbideandwent plenty long before needing sharpening.Peter being a vet has a thing about very sharp edges and I have to agree.Ithink it's better to have a sharper edge that requires a little moreregular sharpening than an edge that is not quite as keen but hardly everneeds work. Never having tried the carbide iron though that's just theory.I know I prefer HSS cutters making ferrules than carbide ones for thatreason. I need to contect these blokes again and I'll let the list know what's up. Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from caneman@clnk.com Fri Feb 23 10:17:42 2001 f1NGHee03970 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:17:01 -0600 Subject: Another Malady OK, I know everyone has had machine troubles in their shops, but lastweek I was working on a ferrule for someone and I'd set up my lathe and itnothing was staying right. I checked and rechecked. I finally put a grambar in my chuck and it was 0.011" off center! Couldn't figure out whathappened, but I've been having accuracy problems out of this puppy for about3 weeks now... ever since I took too deep a cut in a piece of 1" NS bar andhung her up. Anyways, I adjusted my tail stock to line it up, then startedwith a new piece of NS and the same thing, the hole bored way off centerwhich will make a 1/8" hole a LOT larger than it needs to be. Put a dialindicator on my chuck and it was running true (0.0005 runout isn't bad on achuck), so I couldn't figure out what the deal was. Finally, for somereason, I looked on the back of the casting that the spindle goes in, andthere was a piece of the casting laying on the bench behind the lathe.Called the manufacturer and sure enough, they had the part in stock, notcheap but they had it... It should be here either today or Monday and I canget it back together.In the meantime, night before last, I figured I might as well take itapart and get it everything cleaned up spic and span to put in the newcasing. Some of these parts are pressed in, as you know, and can be aregular bitch to get out. Had my gear puller on a shaft (one coming out ofthe top of the casting to run an optional milling head ), trying to get thebearing race off of it, and it wasn't coming, so I took a torch (replacingall the bearings & races anyways, so wasn't worried about heating it alittle), and put pressure on the the gear puller as I heated the race.Well, it still didn't move. I'm thinking... maybe I don't have the gearpuller centered good and it's trying to pull it off at an angle, so I leanover the top of the lathe, looked at the shaft from the end, give it alittle tug (maybe it was a big tug... really can't remember) and all of asudden, things decide to come off...You'd be absolutely astounded how fast a bearing race and the shaft canleave it's place in a casing, when it's under intense pressure from apuller. I don't know the exact speed, but I do know the entire assemblymade it from its place in the casing to my forehead in less than amicrosecond. Billie (some of you know her) was in the shop, started gettinghysterical, so much so that she couldn't move to help me. I felt like I'djust been sucker punched by Muhammed Ali, and definitely had a case ofBoxerLegs there for awhile... There was blood everywhere (small head woundsbleeda LOT more than any other cut does), and keep in mind that I was in a bit ofa stooper by that time. I immediately wiped the blood out of my eyes withmy forearm, and remember wondering "Why did that thing all of a suddenjumpout of there like that?" Next thing I remember is how hot the race was as Ipicked it up to inspect it to see WHY. Of course, it only took a fractionof a second to inspect this piece of hot material, and upon releasing it toit's former spot on the shop floor, I reared back violently (a normalreaction to blistering your fingers), similtaneously uttering phrases whichI would refrain from using in front of the good Rev. Boyd, and hit the backof my head on the corner of an open cabinet door behind the lathe bench.Actually, if it had been some of my other friends instead of Billie, theywould have been laughing so hard they couldn't have helped me, but she didfinally settle down enough to get me in the house ( you should have seen all120 pounds of her trying to direct 265 pounds of me on wobbly legs to thekitchen) and clean up my head, front and back.A trip to the ER confirmed a very minute crack in the orbit around myleft eye, and that there was nothing to do about it, except let it heal...I was told my head would be a "little" sore for a few days... a grossunderstatement... The little dimple from the cabinet door on my bald spotwasn't worthy of stitches, and the cut over my left eye on my forehead...well, lets just say that the way things go around here, I keep a good supplyof butterfly stitches and Steri-Strips, and the ER Doc thought I did asufficient job of closing the cut, so no stitches there. Of course that mayhave been affected by me arguing for several hours about the need to see aPhysician, and it was just about too late to sew it up anyways.The E.R. Dr. did put me on bed rest for a couple of days, since Irefused an overnight stay in the hospital, saying I had a slight concussion,so yesterday, Billie and I went to the North Fork of the White River to findwhere the Cutthroats were on the spawning "beds"... Worked for me, notsurethe Dr. Clark would have approved, but he's not a FlyFisher and justwouldn't understand... OH, and the fishing was great!!! Lessons learned...1. Torches make parts come loose and makes them fly at anextraordinary rate of speed.2. Torches make those flying parts hot and you should NOT pick themup to seewhy they flew so fast (being dizzy and disoriented is noexcuse)...3. Torches in general are evil... use a bearing press instead...4. Looking directly at hot parts under pressure will definitelycontribute tomaking them come loose...5. Cabinet doors have hinges on them... Those hinges have apurpose, They make thedoor swing so that you can close it and not hit your head onit. Take advantage ofthe designated use of those hinges...6. Lathes are expensive, but so are E.R. visits, so all in all, Iprobably would have beenbetter off just to buy a new lathe. I'm sure it's gonnacost me several hundreddollars for X-rays, treatment, and some guy with a higher edto tell me to remaininactive for a few days... (nothing personal against thephysicians on the list, justhate to be goaded into a trip to the ER by my family andgirlfriend, when I was still alive and walking!)7. No matter what happens, it could always have been worse... atleast I had a deadman switch on my torch (I now understand completely why theycall them that, justas I am now aquainted with the term "out on your feet") anddid not burn downthe shop! Tight lines, all BobR.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm from flyfish@defnet.com Fri Feb 23 10:54:12 2001 f1NGsBe06021 Subject: Re: Another Malady This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C09D2A.65579600 BobWow! what a story! I hope your alright!It sounded bad, but I will admit it was hard not to laugh.Sorry about that. I'll bet you close those cabinet doors from now on. I =have seen many people get injured in the shopsI have worked in(and I won't go into any boring stories) butthe part were you went to inspect the hot race while you had just gotten =hit. That is very common thing people do. It's almost like they believe =that it could not of been them that made the mistake, but it must have =been a defective part(or something) so they forget about the fact they =just lost theirfinger (or something) and go back to inspect. Not me I guess I'm kind of =a wimp when it comes to that .I could care less about why it happen and =insist on going to the hospital(as fast as I can!)LOL But Also you =would not believe how many times I've been TIG welding and someone will =come up right after I stop and touch the part. And of course I say " =didn't you just see me welding it" LOLIf you familiar with TIG welding , It must be the fact that they don't =see any slag(because there is none in the process). Well heal up fast! =And be careful next time(slow down) LOLTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C09D2A.65579600 Bob alright! not to laugh.Sorry about that. I'll bet you close = doors from now on. I have seen many people get injured in the =shopsI have worked in(and I won't go into = stories) butthe part were you went to inspect the = almost like they believe that it could not of been them that made the = but it must have been a defective part(or something) so they forget = fact they just lost their inspect. Not me I guess I'm kind of a wimp when it comes to that .I = less about why it happen and insist on going to the hospital(as fast as = times = part. And of course I say " didn't you just see me welding it" LOLIf you familiar with TIG welding , It must be the fact that they = any slag(because there is none in the process). Well heal up fast! And = careful next time(slow down) LOLTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C09D2A.65579600-- from gjm80301@yahoo.com Fri Feb 23 11:13:19 2001 f1NHDIe06963 2001 09:13:09 PST Subject: Re: Another Malady Bob, I'm only now coming to understand that maybe it's best that wecouldn't hook up in Monatana last summer. Somebody is watching out for me. Jerry --- Bob Nunley wrote:OK, I know everyone has had machine troubles in their shops,but lastweek I was working on a ferrule for someone and I'd set up my latheand itnothing was staying right. I checked and rechecked. I finally puta grambar in my chuck and it was 0.011" off center! Couldn't figure outwhathappened, but I've been having accuracy problems out of this puppy 3 weeks now... ever since I took too deep a cut in a piece of 1" NSbar andhung her up. Anyways, I adjusted my tail stock to line it up, thenstartedwith a new piece of NS and the same thing, the hole bored way offcenterwhich will make a 1/8" hole a LOT larger than it needs to be. Puta dialindicator on my chuck and it was running true (0.0005 runout isn'tbad on achuck), so I couldn't figure out what the deal was. Finally, forsomereason, I looked on the back of the casting that the spindle goesin, andthere was a piece of the casting laying on the bench behind thelathe.Called the manufacturer and sure enough, they had the part instock, notcheap but they had it... It should be here either today or Mondayand I canget it back together.In the meantime, night before last, I figured I might as welltake itapart and get it everything cleaned up spic and span to put in thenewcasing. Some of these parts are pressed in, as you know, and canbe aregular bitch to get out. Had my gear puller on a shaft (onecoming out ofthe top of the casting to run an optional milling head ), trying toget thebearing race off of it, and it wasn't coming, so I took a torch(replacingall the bearings & races anyways, so wasn't worried about heatingit alittle), and put pressure on the the gear puller as I heated therace.Well, it still didn't move. I'm thinking... maybe I don't have thegearpuller centered good and it's trying to pull it off at an angle, soI leanover the top of the lathe, looked at the shaft from the end, giveit alittle tug (maybe it was a big tug... really can't remember) andall of asudden, things decide to come off...You'd be absolutely astounded how fast a bearing race and theshaft canleave it's place in a casing, when it's under intense pressure fromapuller. I don't know the exact speed, but I do know the entireassemblymade it from its place in the casing to my forehead in less than amicrosecond. Billie (some of you know her) was in the shop,started gettinghysterical, so much so that she couldn't move to help me. I feltlike I'djust been sucker punched by Muhammed Ali, and definitely had a caseof BoxerLegs there for awhile... There was blood everywhere (small headwounds bleeda LOT more than any other cut does), and keep in mind that I was ina bit ofa stooper by that time. I immediately wiped the blood out of myeyes withmy forearm, and remember wondering "Why did that thing all of asudden jumpout of there like that?" Next thing I remember is how hot the racewas as Ipicked it up to inspect it to see WHY. Of course, it only took afractionof a second to inspect this piece of hot material, and uponreleasing it toit's former spot on the shop floor, I reared back violently (anormalreaction to blistering your fingers), similtaneously utteringphrases whichI would refrain from using in front of the good Rev. Boyd, and hitthe backof my head on the corner of an open cabinet door behind the lathebench.Actually, if it had been some of my other friends instead ofBillie, theywould have been laughing so hard they couldn't have helped me, butshe didfinally settle down enough to get me in the house ( you should haveseen all120 pounds of her trying to direct 265 pounds of me on wobbly legsto thekitchen) and clean up my head, front and back.A trip to the ER confirmed a very minute crack in the orbitaround myleft eye, and that there was nothing to do about it, except let itheal...I was told my head would be a "little" sore for a few days... agrossunderstatement... The little dimple from the cabinet door on mybald spotwasn't worthy of stitches, and the cut over my left eye on myforehead...well, lets just say that the way things go around here, I keep agood supplyof butterfly stitches and Steri-Strips, and the ER Doc thought Idid asufficient job of closing the cut, so no stitches there. Of coursethat mayhave been affected by me arguing for several hours about the needto see aPhysician, and it was just about too late to sew it up anyways.The E.R. Dr. did put me on bed rest for a couple of days, sinceIrefused an overnight stay in the hospital, saying I had a slightconcussion,so yesterday, Billie and I went to the North Fork of the WhiteRiver to findwhere the Cutthroats were on the spawning "beds"... Worked for me,not surethe Dr. Clark would have approved, but he's not a FlyFisher andjustwouldn't understand... OH, and the fishing was great!!! Lessons learned...1. Torches make parts come loose and makes them fly at anextraordinary rate of speed.2. Torches make those flying parts hot and you should NOTpick themup to seewhy they flew so fast (being dizzy and disorientedis noexcuse)...3. Torches in general are evil... use a bearing pressinstead...4. Looking directly at hot parts under pressure willdefinitelycontribute tomaking them come loose...5. Cabinet doors have hinges on them... Those hinges haveapurpose, They make thedoor swing so that you can close it and not hityour head onit. Take advantage ofthe designated use of those hinges...6. Lathes are expensive, but so are E.R. visits, so all inall, Iprobably would have beenbetter off just to buy a new lathe. I'm sure it'sgonnacost me several hundreddollars for X-rays, treatment, and some guy with ahigher edto tell me to remaininactive for a few days... (nothing personalagainst thephysicians on the list, justhate to be goaded into a trip to the ER by myfamily andgirlfriend, when I was stillalive and walking!)7. No matter what happens, it could always have beenworse... atleast I had a deadman switch on my torch (I now understand completelywhy theycall them that, justas I am now aquainted with the term "out on yourfeet") anddid not burn downthe shop! Tight lines, all BobR.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Feb 23 11:14:09 2001 f1NHE8e07091 hme0.telusplanet.net Subject: It's all about semantics Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on just whatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from dutcher@email.msn.com Fri Feb 23 11:54:43 2001 f1NHsge09303 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:54:35 -0800 Subject: Re: Another Malady Good grief Bob, You are a true survivor. There is only one thing left for you to do.Find a way to blame it on your girl friend or the cat. Make it two things,don't forget to wear your shop helmet. Joking aside, thanks for sharing. It takes a secure man to share theless than perfect moments in life. I offer you my hand. I do hope thatBillie made it all feel better with a little TLC and not an "I told you so". My best regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: Bob Nunley Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:14 AMSubject: Another Malady OK, I know everyone has had machine troubles in their shops, but lastweek I was working on a ferrule for someone and I'd set up my lathe and itnothing was staying right. I checked and rechecked. I finally put a grambar in my chuck and it was 0.011" off center! Couldn't figure out whathappened, but I've been having accuracy problems out of this puppy forabout3 weeks now... ever since I took too deep a cut in a piece of 1" NS barandhung her up. Anyways, I adjusted my tail stock to line it up, thenstartedwith a new piece of NS and the same thing, the hole bored way off centerwhich will make a 1/8" hole a LOT larger than it needs to be. Put a dialindicator on my chuck and it was running true (0.0005 runout isn't bad onachuck), so I couldn't figure out what the deal was. Finally, for somereason, I looked on the back of the casting that the spindle goes in, andthere was a piece of the casting laying on the bench behind the lathe.Called the manufacturer and sure enough, they had the part in stock,notcheap but they had it... It should be here either today or Monday and Icanget it back together.In the meantime, night before last, I figured I might as well take itapart and get it everything cleaned up spic and span to put in the newcasing. Some of these parts are pressed in, as you know, and can be aregular bitch to get out. Had my gear puller on a shaft (one coming outofthe top of the casting to run an optional milling head ), trying to getthebearing race off of it, and it wasn't coming, so I took a torch (replacingall the bearings & races anyways, so wasn't worried about heating it alittle), and put pressure on the the gear puller as I heated the race.Well, it still didn't move. I'm thinking... maybe I don't have the gearpuller centered good and it's trying to pull it off at an angle, so I leanover the top of the lathe, looked at the shaft from the end, give it alittle tug (maybe it was a big tug... really can't remember) and all of asudden, things decide to come off...You'd be absolutely astounded how fast a bearing race and the shaftcanleave it's place in a casing, when it's under intense pressure from apuller. I don't know the exact speed, but I do know the entire assemblymade it from its place in the casing to my forehead in less than amicrosecond. Billie (some of you know her) was in the shop, startedgettinghysterical, so much so that she couldn't move to help me. I felt like I'djust been sucker punched by Muhammed Ali, and definitely had a case ofBoxerLegs there for awhile... There was blood everywhere (small head woundsbleeda LOT more than any other cut does), and keep in mind that I was in a bitofa stooper by that time. I immediately wiped the blood out of my eyes withmy forearm, and remember wondering "Why did that thing all of a suddenjumpout of there like that?" Next thing I remember is how hot the race was asIpicked it up to inspect it to see WHY. Of course, it only took a fractionof a second to inspect this piece of hot material, and upon releasing ittoit's former spot on the shop floor, I reared back violently (a normalreaction to blistering your fingers), similtaneously uttering phraseswhichI would refrain from using in front of the good Rev. Boyd, and hit thebackof my head on the corner of an open cabinet door behind the lathe bench.Actually, if it had been some of my other friends instead of Billie, theywould have been laughing so hard they couldn't have helped me, but she didfinally settle down enough to get me in the house ( you should have seenall120 pounds of her trying to direct 265 pounds of me on wobbly legs to thekitchen) and clean up my head, front and back.A trip to the ER confirmed a very minute crack in the orbit around myleft eye, and that there was nothing to do about it, except let it heal...I was told my head would be a "little" sore for a few days... a grossunderstatement... The little dimple from the cabinet door on my bald spotwasn't worthy of stitches, and the cut over my left eye on my forehead...well, lets just say that the way things go around here, I keep a goodsupplyof butterfly stitches and Steri-Strips, and the ER Doc thought I did asufficient job of closing the cut, so no stitches there. Of course thatmayhave been affected by me arguing for several hours about the need to seeaPhysician, and it was just about too late to sew it up anyways.The E.R. Dr. did put me on bed rest for a couple of days, since Irefused an overnight stay in the hospital, saying I had a slightconcussion,so yesterday, Billie and I went to the North Fork of the White River tofindwhere the Cutthroats were on the spawning "beds"... Worked for me, notsurethe Dr. Clark would have approved, but he's not a FlyFisher and justwouldn't understand... OH, and the fishing was great!!! Lessons learned...1. Torches make parts come loose and makes them fly at anextraordinary rate of speed.2. Torches make those flying parts hot and you should NOT pickthemup to seewhy they flew so fast (being dizzy and disoriented is noexcuse)...3. Torches in general are evil... use a bearing press instead...4. Looking directly at hot parts under pressure will definitelycontribute tomaking them come loose...5. Cabinet doors have hinges on them... Those hinges have apurpose, They make thedoor swing so that you can close it and not hit your headonit. Take advantage ofthe designated use of those hinges...6. Lathes are expensive, but so are E.R. visits, so all in all, Iprobably would have beenbetter off just to buy a new lathe. I'm sure it's gonnacost me several hundreddollars for X-rays, treatment, and some guy with a higheredto tell me to remaininactive for a few days... (nothing personal against thephysicians on the list, justhate to be goaded into a trip to the ER by my family andgirlfriend, when I was stillalive and walking!)7. No matter what happens, it could always have been worse... atleast I had a deadman switch on my torch (I now understand completely whytheycall them that, justas I am now aquainted with the term "out on your feet")anddid not burn downthe shop! Tight lines, all BobR.L. "Bob" Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Bamboo Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Feb 23 12:24:17 2001 f1NIOHe10440 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:24:00 -0800 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Don,We're rod makers and rod designers. And what we make are both bamboorods and cane rods.And yes, we're more than a little bit strange. Harry Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from flyfish@defnet.com Fri Feb 23 13:46:59 2001 f1NJkwe13754 Subject: Good Wraps This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09D42.88B46520 I do my wraps after the final coat of finish on my rods.I have also done restorations were I do the wraps andthen put the finish on the rod. My question is how many of you do wraps =last? I love the look of the wraps last on a rodbut the problem is (doing them before the finish) is allot easierand the chance of nicking the final finish ( with sand paper )is not a problem. I'm thinking I might want to go back to doing them =before the finish, but I do not like the way the finish rounds the =corners of the wrap. Any suggestions?What do you guys do? Or is this just the way it is? What might I be over =looking here? I do my finish with spar varnish. Making wraps is the part =I look least forward to doing in the process of making a rod. Could it =just be that?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09D42.88B46520 I do my wraps after the final coat of = rods.I have also done restorations were I do= andthen put the finish on the rod. My = rodbut the problem is (doing them before = is allot easierand the chance of nicking the final = sand paper )is not a problem. I'm thinking I might = back to doing them before the finish, but I do not like the way the = rounds the corners of the wrap. Any suggestions?What do you guys do? Or is this just = What might I be over looking here? I do my finish with spar varnish. = wraps is the part I look least forward to doing in the process of making = Could it just be that?TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C09D42.88B46520-- from Canerods@aol.com Fri Feb 23 15:19:55 2001 f1NLJse17402 Subject: Re: South Bend #59 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu --part1_c3.e32130e.27c82ddc_boundary In a message dated 2/23/01 2:06:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,bh887@lafn.org writes: Restoring it would not be fully possible with the shorttip anyway. Why not scarf the tip too? dgb --part1_c3.e32130e.27c82ddc_boundary In a message dated2/23/01 2:06:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, bh887@lafn.org writes: Restoring itwould not be fully possible with the short Why not scarf the tip too? dgb --part1_c3.e32130e.27c82ddc_boundary-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Feb 23 15:29:50 2001 f1NLTne17968 2001 13:29:47 PST Subject: Re: It's all about semantics YEP! YEP! "STRANGE" THAT ABOUT COVERS IT! timothy --- Don & Sandy Andersen wrote:Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers orassemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or canerods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and whatreally stuck on just whatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices!http://auctions.yahoo.com/ from jojo@ipa.net Fri Feb 23 16:20:47 2001 f1NMKje20089 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Don,As one who resists labels, how about: We are (strange) people who makerodsof bamboo, a part of which includes design and assembly.M-D Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on just whatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from WilhelmRG@aol.com Fri Feb 23 16:51:23 2001 f1NMpJe21253 Subject: Re: hock plane blade order --part1_8f.744c5d1.27c84328_boundary Scott; I have not received any type of reply from Darrell Lee. He does not answer e-mail or provide any updates. Probably something is not right. I had looked forwarded in receiving the blades I ordered. Ron --part1_8f.744c5d1.27c84328_boundary Scott; not answer looked forwarded in receiving the blades I ordered. Ron --part1_8f.744c5d1.27c84328_boundary-- from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Fri Feb 23 17:16:40 2001 f1NNGde21977 ; Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:15:57 -0500 Subject: TU funnies Read the funniest thing today in the 2001 Trout Unlimited calendar, "Donate$1,000 and we will send you this Winston rod made of handrolled graphite."The only handrolled thing I ever thought there was on a trout stream was agood cigar.Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Fri Feb 23 17:35:58 2001 f1NNZre22575 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 18:33:16 -0500 Subject: Re: TU funnies Imagine the size of the builder's arms! That stuff is rolled under quite abit of pressure isn't it? ;^) Tim----- Original Message ----- Subject: TU funnies Read the funniest thing today in the 2001 Trout Unlimited calendar,"Donate$1,000 and we will send you this Winston rod made of handrolled graphite."The only handrolled thing I ever thought there was on a trout stream was agood cigar.Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Feb 23 17:40:28 2001 f1NNeRe22799 Subject: Re: TU funnies Bob,You're either showing your age or your naivete, my friend. (How are wesupposed to know what age fellow listers are?) Some of us from the babyboomergeneration can think of other things you smoke that are handrollled. Ihaven'tsone that in a very long time, though. Harry Bob Maulucci wrote: Read the funniest thing today in the 2001 Trout Unlimited calendar,"Donate$1,000 and we will send you this Winston rod made of handrolled graphite."The only handrolled thing I ever thought there was on a trout stream was agood cigar. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Feb 23 18:11:04 2001 f1O0B3e23547 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:56:39 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Another Malady Bob,glad to hear you survived! Must have been a phase of the moon, myweek wasn'tmuch better! Hope your head stops aching soon, maybe kick back a day ortwo and putyour feet up. The world looks allot better after you step back and re-group.Maybe anice hot totty by the fireplace getting gear ready for the upcoming season isinorder??Shawn from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Fri Feb 23 18:11:44 2001 f1O0Bhe23641 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:11:01 -0500 Subject: Re: TU funnies I just figured if I left that out people would fill in their own blanks. No pun intended on the "blanks" part. I have smelled signs of the green stuff in these parts. You found me out, I am really a 16 year old girl. Darn.LOL,Bobby Sue At 05:37 PM 2/23/2001 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Bob,You're either showing your age or your naivete, my friend. (How are wesupposed to know what age fellow listers are?) Some of us from the babyboomergeneration can think of other things you smoke that are handrollled. I haven'tsone that in a very long time, though. Harry Bob Maulucci wrote: Read the funniest thing today in the 2001 Trout Unlimited calendar,"Donate$1,000 and we will send you this Winston rod made of handrolledgraphite."The only handrolled thing I ever thought there was on a trout stream wasagood cigar. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Feb 23 18:11:47 2001 f1O0Ble23646 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Rod builders build the rod on a supplied blank. Rod makers make theblank. We are all rod designers and there isn't anyone on this list with"both oars in the water". Marty Don,As one who resists labels, how about: We are (strange) people who makerodsof bamboo, a part of which includes design and assembly.M-D From: "Don & Sandy Andersen" Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on just whatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from dutcher@email.msn.com Fri Feb 23 18:25:37 2001 f1O0Pae24317 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 16:25:32 -0800 Subject: Re: hock plane blade order Hi Wilhelm, I have made an order and received it in the last two weeks with DarrellLee. In fact, I believe he has posted to the list within that time frame. Ithink he has a telephone number listed on his web site. Why not give him acall? Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: WilhelmRG@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:50 PMSubject: Re: hock plane blade order Scott; I have not received any type of reply from Darrell Lee. He does notanswere-mail or provide any updates. Probably something is not right. I hadlooked forwarded in receiving the blades I ordered. Ron from BambooRods@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:33:02 2001 f1O0X1e24619 Subject: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's Does anyone have any experience with the new Bellinger Roughing andTapering Beveler? Pro's and Con's. Supposedly, butt sections come within .025 and tips .035. I have a Morgan now and have been finishing on traditional forms anyway. TIADoug from JAQFOLL@worldnet.att.net Fri Feb 23 18:33:30 2001 f1O0XPe24701 ;Sat, 24 Feb 2001 00:33:17 +0000 Subject: Re: hock plane blade order This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C09DCF.9F427E20 Not yet Scott, patiently waiting. Jack ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C09DCF.9F427E20 Not yet Scott, patiently =waiting. Jack ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C09DCF.9F427E20-- from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Fri Feb 23 18:43:03 2001 f1O0h1e25139 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:42:11 -0500 Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's I just got a check for one out to Russ. I hope to hear more soon. I too have the Hand Mill, but ripping these through the beveller will speed things up. I will be glad to give a report when it gets here. I was going to just get the roughing one, but if it can taper strips, why not?Bob At 07:31 PM 2/23/2001 -0500, you wrote:Does anyone have any experience with the new Bellinger Roughing andTaperingBeveler? Pro's and Con's. Supposedly, butt sections come within .025 andtips .035. I have a Morgan now and have been finishing on traditional formsanyway. TIADoug Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from caneman@clnk.com Fri Feb 23 18:47:51 2001 f1O0loe25340 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: It's all about semantics We're supposed to have Oars????? -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Rod builders build the rod on a supplied blank. Rod makers make theblank. We are all rod designers and there isn't anyone on this list with"both oars in the water". Marty Don,As one who resists labels, how about: We are (strange) people who makerodsof bamboo, a part of which includes design and assembly.M-D From: "Don & Sandy Andersen" Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on justwhatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Feb 23 19:46:50 2001 f1O1kne26938 Subject: Re: TU funnies Harry: Having hit the big Six-Oh this past October puts me a lap ahead of youbaby- boomers, but I remember "rolling" them cigareets when I was a"youngin"and getting my fanny tanned as a reward. :-)Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: TU funnies Bob,You're either showing your age or your naivete, my friend. (How arewesupposed to know what age fellow listers are?) Some of us from the babyboomergeneration can think of other things you smoke that are handrollled. Ihaven'tsone that in a very long time, though. Harry Bob Maulucci wrote: Read the funniest thing today in the 2001 Trout Unlimited calendar,"Donate$1,000 and we will send you this Winston rod made of handrolledgraphite."The only handrolled thing I ever thought there was on a trout stream wasagood cigar. from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Feb 23 19:54:31 2001 f1O1sRe27177 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Bob: If you locate the oars, for God's sake... BE CAREFUL!!! Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: It's all about semantics We're supposed to have Oars????? -----Original Message-----From: marty Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:13 PMSubject: Re: It's all about semantics Rod builders build the rod on a supplied blank. Rod makers make theblank. We are all rod designers and there isn't anyone on this list with"both oars in the water". Marty Don,As one who resists labels, how about: We are (strange) people whomakerodsof bamboo, a part of which includes design and assembly.M-D From: "Don & Sandy Andersen" Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on justwhatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from Lazybee45@aol.com Fri Feb 23 19:57:50 2001 f1O1vne27412 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics In a message dated 2/23/01 6:12:42 PM Central Standard Time,horsesho@ptd.net writes: AMEN!mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Feb 23 20:17:43 2001 f1O2Hge27910 Subject: Re: hock plane blade order/been there Dick and list,Now we all know that Darrell Lee is one of the regular guys on the list and he is one of the last people we would have to worry about being scammed by. At times we all run into some difficulties about getting things done and integrity was questioned and all that came out just fine,right Don D. so don't you guys who ordered from Darrell Lee get your panties in an uproar he will come thru for you just fine.Been there.Bret from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Feb 23 20:21:34 2001 f1O2LTe28157 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:20:45 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: hock plane blade order Guys,that sounds odd for Darrell, he is usually right on top of things?? Cometothink of it, I haven't seen too many posts from him in a while, hopeeverything isOK.I don't think you guys have too much too worry about with Darrell, he hasagood reputation for following through on his sales and my dealings with himhave gonesmoothly.Shawn "Richard R. Dutcher" wrote: Hi Wilhelm, I have made an order and received it in the last two weeks with DarrellLee. In fact, I believe he has posted to the list within that time frame. Ithink he has a telephone number listed on his web site. Why not give him acall? Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----- Original Message -----From: WilhelmRG@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 2:50 PMSubject: Re: hock plane blade order Scott; I have not received any type of reply from Darrell Lee. He does notanswere-mail or provide any updates. Probably something is not right. I hadlooked forwarded in receiving the blades I ordered. Ron from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Feb 23 20:26:39 2001 f1O2Qde28405 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:25:55 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: It's all about semantics I would settle for the paddles my wife keeps telling me I'm up the creekwithout! Shawn Bob Nunley wrote: We're supposed to have Oars????? -----Original Message----- Date: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:13 PMSubject: Re: It's all about semantics Rod builders build the rod on a supplied blank. Rod makers make theblank. We are all rod designers and there isn't anyone on this list with"both oars in the water". Marty Don,As one who resists labels, how about: We are (strange) people whomakerodsof bamboo, a part of which includes design and assembly.M-D From: "Don & Sandy Andersen" Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on justwhatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from piscator@macatawa.org Fri Feb 23 21:05:03 2001 f1O352e29233 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Hey, that's not what Terry calls us! BC from piscator@macatawa.org Fri Feb 23 21:09:11 2001 f1O39Ae29440 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics "I believe I'm just a figment of my own imagination, 'cause only someonejust like me could ever dream me up. I'm a 14 carat cuckoo, living coloranimation. I'm a cross between a silver chalise and a Dixie cup." from "Ode to the Road", from piscator@macatawa.org Fri Feb 23 21:19:44 2001 f1O3Jhe29889 Subject: Re: TU funnies Does anyone know when the Southfield, MI fly fishing show is? Brian from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Fri Feb 23 21:57:43 2001 f1O3vge00646 Subject: Re: South Bend #59 I think there's 2 ways to look at it. On the one hand, you could leave therod as-is so he can pull it out of the closet every once in a while andremember his father. On the other hand, you can fix it so it's fishable andhe can remember his dad when he's on the water. I did the latter with my Dad's old Heddon #10. One tip section was broke,the varnish was toast, the guides had rusted out, and the cork grip waschewed to pieces. I refinished it as a 3/1 - the only things "original" onthe rod are the ferrules, the reel seat, and the bamboo itself. In factthis was my first experience with bamboo rod work. Fortunately my fathergot to see the rod before he passed away. He was thrilled and proud, andhanded it to me and said "go catch a fish with it." He died a few yearslater. Every year I take it out fishing at least once and remember Dad -not as a broken down relic in the closet, but as a living thing outenjoying the fishing. Sure, it isn't 100% original. But it's still Dad'sold rod to me. And that's what really counts! It really is a personal thing. This is just another way of looking at theoptions. Tom from flyfish@defnet.com Fri Feb 23 22:38:47 2001 f1O4cie01538 Subject: Re: Southfield show This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C09D8C.BE9E46C0 BrianIt's March 10th & 11th.I'm an exhibitor there. I'm in booth #82Any body else going to the Southfield show in Michigan?If you go,stop by my booth and say Hi so I can meet some of you face to = Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C09D8C.BE9E46C0 BrianIt's March 10th & =11th. #82Any body else going to the Southfield = Michigan?If you go,stop by my booth and say Hi = some of you face to face. Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C09D8C.BE9E46C0-- from ddeloach@pcisys.net Fri Feb 23 22:40:43 2001 f1O4ece01724; env- from (ddeloach@pcisys.net) Subject: Re: hock plane blade order/been there Remember awhile back myintegrity was questioned and all that came out just fine,right Don D.Come on now, Bret--easy for you to say--you didn't have to wait four months Having said that Darrell is very reputable. I just ordered cork from him afew days ago and he shipped the day my cashiers check arrived. He emailedmeyesterday morning as matter of fact. Don from flyfish@defnet.com Fri Feb 23 22:43:17 2001 f1O4hFe01991 Subject: Re: South Bend # 59 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C09D8D.61FA0A20 Tom Excellent advise ! I could not agree with you more.I think you are right on target with your suggestion.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C09D8D.61FA0A20 Tom Excellent advise ! I could not = more.I think you are right on target with = suggestion.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C09D8D.61FA0A20-- from Lazybee45@aol.com Fri Feb 23 23:20:28 2001 f1O5KFe02721 Subject: razor planes I just got started on my roughing out of cane strips. I hope to make a rod out of them but you never know! (Thanks for the roughing form Martin!) I cut two pieces tonight and will work on more tomorrow. Big problem will of course be a source of cane inIowa, but I am sure that can be remediedwithout having to buy $100 worth at a time I hope! (budget here guys!) from my model building I have several small "Razor planes" and was anxious to see how they would work with cane. I used my antique (my great grandfather's ) block plane for some of the shaping and after sharpening, it was perfectly nice. But I got out my "David" plane and my Master Airscrew and started playing with them. End result is that they make nice cuts, particularly considering what they cost. The David cost me something under $10 a few years ago, and the Master Airscrew, at last glance at towerHobbies was about $6 or 7. They may not be great for final scraping, but they are pretty effective for some work and the blades are disposable! (they arerazor blades more or less) I don't know if anyone has tried these, but I have used mine for years and considering the cost, they seem to last a very long time. My last Master Airscrew was only "ruined" becasue I epoxied it to a block of wood for an ANGLE cutting plane. worth a try anyway. Now to get busy on trying to cut the rest and actually finish my planing form and do an actual taper!mark "Never eat more than you can lift!" Miss Piggy from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sat Feb 24 01:32:00 2001 f1O7Vpe04160 Fri, 23 Feb 2001 23:31:43 -0800 Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:31:43 GMT Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's FILETIME=[D5D2DA20:01C09E33] From: BambooRods@aol.com Subject: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con'sDate: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:31:10 EST Does anyone have any experience with the new Bellinger Roughing and TaperingBeveler? Pro's and Con's. Supposedly, butt sections come within .025 andtips .035. I have a Morgan now and have been finishing on traditional formsanyway. TIADoug The combo rougher and taper mill is a pretty slick unit for what it was designed to do, provide a tapering attatchment for the rougher at a more affordable price than buying the Dickerson beveler and a rougher. An excellent tool if you are building a dozen or two rods a year. If you want to build a dozen a month then get the seperate pieces. It does have the additional advantage of not taking up near the space of the Dickerson/rougher combo. BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another new toy he is working on. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well also. I watched D. Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum salmon rod. I don't know how much help it would be to a proficient hand planer though. It will take the place of gaining the experience however. I went home and timed myself to see if it would be any faster than finishing the strips in the blocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a 2/2 rod by hand and about 3 times that long with the machine. The bad part is the estimated 5 digit cost too. My poor wife only gets nervous when I look at shotguns and bamboo machinery! :) A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 24 01:56:54 2001 f1O7ume04512 Subject: Re: Allen This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C09DA8.6236D0C0 I need to make sure I'm reading this right.You finish hand plane down 18 strips in 30 minutes.The way I figure that , its about 1 strip in 1minute and 40 seconds. Is =that correct? Did I get it right. If it isI must be incredibly slow and I need to know what I'm doing wrong. I'm =serious here. This is not a joke or a slam.It takes me allot longer. Although I'm positive I'm slow at it ,I didn't realize till now just how slow. LOLWill I get that fast in time?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C09DA8.6236D0C0 Allen right. minutes.The way I figure that , its about 1 = isI must be incredibly slow and I need to = I'm doing wrong. I'm serious here. This is not a joke or a =slam.It takes me allot longer. Although I'm = slow at it ,I didn't realize till now just how = LOLWill I get that fast in =time?TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C09DA8.6236D0C0-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Feb 24 04:03:38 2001 f1OA3be05773 Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Don You SMOKE the BROWN stuff! You SMOKE the BROWN stuff! Leave the GREEN stuff alone! Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: It's all about semantics Guys/Gals, I've 2 questions: Are we rod builders or makers or designers or assemblers or what? Are rods made from bamboo - bamboo rods or cane rods? I was writing an article today c/w bio and what really stuck on just whatwe are other than strange. catch ya' Don from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Feb 24 04:11:00 2001 f1OAAxe06010 f1OAAo092342; Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Yes, but Terry is a sad case. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: It's all about semantics Hey, that's not what Terry calls us! BC from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Feb 24 04:18:58 2001 f1OAIue06291 f1OAIr092596; Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's Allen Sorry to be contrary, but NOTHING willever take the place of "gaining theexperience". Peter ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's From: BambooRods@aol.com Subject: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con'sDate: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:31:10 EST Does anyone have any experience with the new Bellinger Roughing andTaperingBeveler? Pro's and Con's. Supposedly, butt sections come within .025andtips .035. I have a Morgan now and have been finishing on traditionalformsanyway. TIADoug The combo rougher and taper mill is a pretty slick unit for what it wasdesigned to do, provide a tapering attatchment for the rougher at a moreaffordable price than buying the Dickerson beveler and a rougher. Anexcellent tool if you are building a dozen or two rods a year. If you wantto build a dozen a month then get the seperate pieces. It does have theadditional advantage of not taking up near the space of theDickerson/rougher combo. BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another new toy he is workingon. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well also. I watched D.Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum salmon rod. I don'tknow how much help it would be to a proficient hand planer though. It willtake the place of gaining the experience however. I went home and timedmyself to see if it would be any faster than finishing the strips in theblocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a 2/2 rod by hand and about 3times that long with the machine. The bad part is the estimated 5 digitcosttoo. My poor wife only gets nervous when I look at shotguns and bamboomachinery! :) A.J.Thramer _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Feb 24 06:11:37 2001 f1OCBbe07469 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Winston Tapers Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote: Marty,cool.thanksBretBret, Here is the Winston 8' 2pc. #5 I promised. This is the best 8'er Iever casted, second would be the 8' WM Granger tapers.The tip dimensions seem a bit "thick ankled" but I love how it handlesa line. Rod has true medium action. Winston (Doug Merrick) 8' 2/2 DT #5 line. Deduct .004 forvarnish Butt Tip00 .220" .082"05 .230 .08910 .240 .10615 .249 .12420 .263 .12825 .277 .15030 .285 .16835 .304 .184381/4" .312 start of grip40 under grip? .19445 " " " .21748 " " " .222 Guide spacing Tip Butt4 1/4" 4 1/8"8 1/4 11 1/412 3/4 19 3/8 (stripper)18 1/2 24 3/830 3/83744 1/8 6" Grip/ 4" DL bakelite seatGood Luck, Marty from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 24 06:21:49 2001 f1OCLne07724 Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:21:09 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Winston Tapers Marty,any idea of the age of this rod??Shawn Bret, Here is the Winston 8' 2pc. #5 I promised. This is the best 8'er Iever casted, second would be the 8' WM Granger tapers.The tip dimensions seem a bit "thick ankled" but I love how it handlesa line. Rod has true medium action. Winston (Doug Merrick) 8' 2/2 DT #5 line. Deduct .004 forvarnish from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Sat Feb 24 07:12:18 2001 f1ODCHe08343 Subject: Fwd: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's --part1_47.7d8bb5c.27c90b2c_boundary www.geneseevalleyrods.com --part1_47.7d8bb5c.27c90b2c_boundary Full-name: Eastkoyfly Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's I have the rough out machine and I can say that I love it. It does what it is made to do. A very well built unit! I have also been looking in to mills and as far as I can tell I will still be much faster by hand.Joewww.geneseevalleyrods.com --part1_47.7d8bb5c.27c90b2c_boundary-- from stpete@netten.net Sat Feb 24 08:27:03 2001 f1OER2e10577 Subject: Jax Iron? I was reading in Gierach's new book that he blackened his bead chain forfly eyes with Jax Iron, a steel and iron blackener, which Mike Clarkuses to blacken his ferrules. Now, I am more than happy with DaveLeClair's NS Oxidizer and have a long time supply (I only make aboutthree or four rods a year). It has performed flawlessly for me and Iprefer to support rodmakers and rodmaker suppliers. But I am always onthe look out for new sources just in case one source dries up. Anyone ever heard of or use this Jax Iron? If it is similar toBirchwood Casey's cold blue I'd like to know so that I can write it offmy list. Dave's stuff is far superior. But if it is working well forsomeone, I'd like to know. Rick C. from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Feb 24 08:41:20 2001 f1OEfJe10993 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Winston Tapers Hi Shawn, late 60's to 1970. Serial #96xx. It has the flesh colorednylon wraps tipped maroon . Marty Marty,any idea of the age of this rod??Shawn Bret, Here is the Winston 8' 2pc. #5 I promised. This is the best 8'er Iever casted, second would be the 8' WM Granger tapers.The tip dimensions seem a bit "thick ankled" but I love how it handlesa line. Rod has true medium action. Winston (Doug Merrick) 8' 2/2 DT #5 line. Deduct .004 forvarnish from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Feb 24 08:45:51 2001 f1OEjpe11246 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Jax Iron? I have been using Birchwood Casey's Brass Black for years with nocomplaints. I do not think that steel blackeners will work on NS, Brassor copper or vice versa. Marty I was reading in Gierach's new book that he blackened his bead chain forfly eyes with Jax Iron, a steel and iron blackener, which Mike Clarkuses to blacken his ferrules. Now, I am more than happy with DaveLeClair's NS Oxidizer and have a long time supply (I only make aboutthree or four rods a year). It has performed flawlessly for me and Iprefer to support rodmakers and rodmaker suppliers. But I am always onthe look out for new sources just in case one source dries up. Anyone ever heard of or use this Jax Iron? If it is similar toBirchwood Casey's cold blue I'd like to know so that I can write it offmy list. Dave's stuff is far superior. But if it is working well forsomeone, I'd like to know. Rick C. from horsesho@ptd.net Sat Feb 24 08:50:46 2001 f1OEoje11469 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Winston Tapers Yes it's hollow built. Sorry for not posting it on the taper. Marty Hi Marty: is that by any chance a Winston hollow made rod? I want tomake an8-foot no. 5 for personal use, and will make this one per yourstatement.Just need to know if any hollowing should be done to get as close aspossibleto the casting response of your rod. Best, Richard Tyree from HalManas@aol.com Sat Feb 24 09:04:02 2001 f1OF42e11834 Subject: Winston tapers List,Does anyone out there have the tapers for any of the short Winston rods? I'm looking for anything in the 5 1/2' to 6 1/2' range in a 4 or 5 weight. Thanks, Hal from johnsabina@home.com Sat Feb 24 09:09:18 2001 f1OF9He12074 ;Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:09:11 -0800 Subject: Re: TU funnies Brian: The 2001 Midwest Fly Fishing Exposition will be held on March 10 and 11,2001. The show is held at the Southfield Civic Center Pavilion located at26000 Evergreen Road, Southfield, MI. (This is about 1/2 mile south of theEvergreen exit off I-696.) The show is presented by the Michigan FlyFishing Club, an FFF affiliate. Show hours are 10 AM to 7 PM on Saturdayand 10 AM to 5 PM on Sunday. Admission is $10.00 for adults with children14 and under FREE. This is the largest show in Michigan and draws many fishermen and rodmakers. Usually Ron Barch, Jeff Wagner, John Zimmy, Wayne Cattanach, andothers attend. JJS----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: TU funnies Does anyone know when the Southfield, MI fly fishing show is? Brian from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 24 10:11:20 2001 f1OGBJe13119 Subject: Re: Allen This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C09DED.906F5800 OK It was explained to me that Allen has a hand mill.I understand now. Thought for a second I was getting old LOL As Richard =the Photo Copy Guy from Saturday Night Live would say " look at the new =guy, Makin the mistake"Bamboominator, Bamboomanarama, Bamboomanalamadingdong. LOL see ifthat =word makes it through spell checker?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C09DED.906F5800 OK It was explained to me that Allen = mill.I understand now. Thought for a second= Live would say " look at the new guy, Makin the mistake" checker?TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C09DED.906F5800-- from piscator@macatawa.org Sat Feb 24 10:16:36 2001 f1OGGZe13337 "Jerry Snider" Subject: Southfield, MI Fly Fishing Show Anyone want to get together and talk rodmaking forbreakfast/lunch/dinner/drinks/whatever (but not the stuff Harry wastalkingabout, "Its hard to leave when you can't find the door.") during theSouthfield show? Brian from goodaple@tcac.net Sat Feb 24 11:24:48 2001 f1OHOle14257 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Re: Winston tapers Organization: How about in the seven foot range as well. I would like to build one forpersonal use to compare to some others that I have made. Thanks, RandallGregory NW AR. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Winston tapers List,Does anyone out there have the tapers for any of the short Winstonrods?I'm looking for anything in the 5 1/2' to 6 1/2' range in a 4 or 5 weight. Thanks, Hal from Canerods@aol.com Sat Feb 24 12:00:33 2001 f1OI0We14872 Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's --part1_ac.1165ecb2.27c950ad_boundary In a message dated 2/23/01 11:32:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, ajthramer@hotmail.com writes: BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another new toy he is working on. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well also. I watched D. Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum salmon rod. I don't know how much help it would be to a proficient hand planer though. It will take the place of gaining the experience however. I went home and timed myself to see if it would be any faster than finishing the strips in the blocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a 2/2 rod by hand and about 3 times that long with the machine. The bad part is the estimated 5 digit cost too. My poor wife only gets nervous when I look at shotguns and bamboo machinery! :) A.J.Thramer AJ, I'm only beginning to know how to plane my own strips, but I can tell you that the day I can plane strips that fast is the day I'll take my wife out I used to watch my grandfather cut lead glass crystal objects (last glass cutter for Dorflinger's Glass Company) and at a pace that was simplyamazing. Watching you plane bamboo must also be an experience. Too bad the word "masterpiece" has lost its original meaning. For I believe that you must be a master at your trade. And a true master is a joy to watch. Don Burns PS - This is not to imply that anyone else on the list isn't also a master bamboo rodmaker. --part1_ac.1165ecb2.27c950ad_boundary In a message dated2/23/01 11:32:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, ajthramer@hotmail.com writes: BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another new toy he isworking on. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well also. I watched D. Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum salmon rod. I don't know how much help it would be to a proficient hand planer though. Itwill take the place of gaining the experience however. I went home andtimed myself to see if it would be any faster than finishing the strips in the blocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a 2/2 rod by hand and about3 times that long with the machine. The bad part is the estimated 5 digit cost too. My poor wife only gets nervous when I look at shotguns and bamboo machinery! :) A.J.Thramer AJ, I'm only beginning to know how to plane my own strips, but I can tell you that the day I can plane strips that fast is the day I'll take my wife out I used to watch my grandfather cut lead glass crystal objects (lastglass cutter for Dorflinger's Glass Company) and at a pace that was simplyamazing. Watching you plane bamboo must also be an experience. Too bad theword "masterpiece" has lost its original meaning. For I believe that you mustbe a master at your trade. And a true master is a joy to watch. Don Burns PS - This is not to imply that anyone else on the list isn't also a master bamboo rodmaker. --part1_ac.1165ecb2.27c950ad_boundary-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Feb 24 12:32:30 2001 f1OIWTe15546 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C09E4C.56E7AA60 Jeez Don... You trying to get a discount from AJ? LOL !!! Haven't you learned yet? If you compliment a rod maker, they will raisetheir prices! 8^) Darrellwww.vfish.net-----Original Message-----From: owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:00 AM Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's In a message dated 2/23/01 11:32:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,ajthramer@hotmail.com writes: BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another new toy he isworkingon. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well also. I watched D.Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum salmon rod. Idon'tknow how much help it would be to a proficient hand planer though. Itwilltake the place of gaining the experience however. I went home and timedmyself to see if it would be any faster than finishing the strips in theblocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a 2/2 rod by hand and about 3times that long with the machine. The bad part is the estimated 5 digitcosttoo. My poor wife only gets nervous when I look at shotguns and bamboomachinery! :) A.J.Thramer AJ, I'm only beginning to know how to plane my own strips, but I can tell youthat the day I can plane strips that fast is the day I'll take my wife out I used to watch my grandfather cut lead glass crystal objects (last glasscutter for Dorflinger's Glass Company) and at a pace that was simplyamazing. Watching you plane bamboo must also be an experience. Too bad the word"masterpiece" has lost its original meaning. For I believe that you mustbe amaster at your trade. And a true master is a joy to watch. Don Burns PS - This is not to imply that anyone else on the list isn't also a masterbamboo rodmaker. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C09E4C.56E7AA60 Don... !!! Darrellwww.vfish.net Canerods@aol.comSent: Saturday, February 24, 200110:00 = ajthramer@hotmail.com writes: BTW I was at Bellingers shop last Saturday, another = he is working on. A beveler that will do finish cuts, and well = watched D. Whitehead and Al cut out a pair of butts for a Gillum = rod. I don't know how much help it would be to a proficient hand = though. It will take the place of gaining the experience = home and timed myself to see if it would be any faster than = the strips in the blocks. Nope, not for me. About 30 min for a = the estimated 5 digit cost too. My poor wife only gets = I look at shotguns and bamboo machinery! :) AJ, I'm only beginning to knowhow to = my own strips, but I can tell you that the day I can plane strips = fast is the day I'll take my wife out for a very expensive dinner! = I used to watch my grandfather cut lead glass crystal objects = glass cutter for Dorflinger's Glass Company) and at a pace that = amazing. Watching you plane bamboo must also be an experience.= the word "masterpiece" has lost its original meaning. For I = you must be a master at your trade. And a true master is a joy to = Don Burns PS - This is not to imply that anyone else = ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C09E4C.56E7AA60-- from chris_wohlford@yahoo.com Sat Feb 24 13:22:38 2001 f1OJMXe16478 2001 11:22:30 PST Subject: Bamboo Rod Library update List,Just a note that I posted an update to "The Bamboo FlyRod Library" (http://www.artistree.com/SplitCaneLibrary/ ). A few ofthe most notable additions were: Scott, Kathy. Moose in the Water / Bamboo on theBench: A Journal and a Journey, Alder Creek Publishing[2001] - Wonderful new book. Highly recommended! Schrooten, Hein, S. Splitcanerods for Fly-Fishing,Self-published [1997] - Newer comprehensive manualwith interesting approaches to building bamboo rods. Limited editions published in English, Dutch, German &Norwegian. Smith, Red. Red Smith On Fishing, Doubleday [1963] -Contains chapter on Payne rods. McNalley, Tom (ed). Fisherman's Digest - FirstAnnual Edition, John, Paul & Co. [1958] - Containsarticle titled "Paul Young - Master Rod Builder" byJack Van Coevering. Includes many photos of Paul andhis shop. On another note, if anyone is willing to supply mewith info (issue #, date, article title & author) onthe articles that have been appearing in the CanadianFly Fisher I would appreciate it. Best Regards, Chris __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from darrell@rockclimbing.org Sat Feb 24 13:39:12 2001 f1OJd6e16887 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: Bamboo Rod Library update This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C09E56.3463B6A0 Great job Chris! Darrell Lee www.vfish.net Ebay sale -----Original Message----- Subject: Bamboo Rod Library update List,Just a note that I posted an update to "The Bamboo FlyRod Library" (http://www.artistree.com/SplitCaneLibrary/ ). A few ofthe most notable additions were: . Scott, Kathy. Moose in the Water / Bamboo on theBench: A Journal and a Journey, Alder Creek Publishing[2001] - Wonderful new book. Highly recommended! . Schrooten, Hein, S. Splitcanerods for Fly-Fishing,Self-published [1997] - Newer comprehensive manualwith interesting approaches to building bamboo rods.Limited editions published in English, Dutch, German &Norwegian. . Smith, Red. Red Smith On Fishing, Doubleday [1963] -Contains chapter on Payne rods. . McNalley, Tom (ed). Fisherman's Digest - FirstAnnual Edition, John, Paul & Co. [1958] - Containsarticle titled "Paul Young - Master Rod Builder" byJack Van Coevering. Includes many photos of Paul andhis shop. On another note, if anyone is willing to supply mewith info (issue #, date, article title & author) onthe articles that have been appearing in the CanadianFly Fisher I would appreciate it. Best Regards, Chris __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C09E56.3463B6A0 rodmakers@w= Behalf Of Chris WohlfordSent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 11:23 = updateList,Just a note that I posted an update to "The= FlyRod Library" (http://www.artistree.= ). A few ofthe most notable additions were:. Scott, Kathy. = the Water / Bamboo on theBench: A Journal and a Journey, Alder Creek= Publishing[2001] - Wonderful new book. Highly Schrooten, Hein, S. Splitcanerods for Fly-Fishing,Self-published = Newer comprehensive manualwith interesting approaches to building = &Norwegian.. Smith, Red. Red Smith On Fishing,Doubleday = -Contains chapter on Payne rods.. McNalley, Tom (ed). = Van Coevering. Includes many photos of Paul andhis shop.On= note, if anyone is willing to supply mewith info (issue #, date, = Regards,Chris____________________________________________= ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C09E56.3463B6A0-- from Canerods@aol.com Sat Feb 24 14:31:22 2001 f1OKVMe17720 Subject: Re: Bellinger Mill Pro's/Con's --part1_98.1100fc8a.27c973f2_boundary In a message dated 2/24/01 10:33:46 AM Pacific Standard Time, darrell@rockclimbing.org writes: Jeez Don... You trying to get a discount from AJ? LOL !!! Haven't you learned yet? If you compliment a rod maker, they will raise their prices! 8^) Darrellhttp://www.vfish.net/ Darrell, Didn't I tell you that AJ has sold me rods for waaaaaaaaaay under the price he charges you. I guess I forgot to tell you that. I see that you're selling some bamboo and other stuff on eBay - too early to keep the culms for the Bishop gathering? If anyone needs bamboo, I've seen some of the same batch of culms that Darrell has listed and it is nice. He's also selling some rodmaking books - including Wayne's new book, but don't bid on that auction - I plan on winning at least one of the two up for sale. Don Burns PS - search under seller "darrell9" if you are looking for his culms. Else ignore this post and don't search for Wayne's book!!!! --part1_98.1100fc8a.27c973f2_boundary In a message dated2/24/01 10:33:46 AM Pacific Standard Time, darrell@rockclimbing.org writes: Jeez Don... You trying to get a discount from AJ? rod maker, they will raise Darrellhttp://www.vfish.net/ Darrell, Didn't I tell you that AJ has sold me rods for waaaaaaaaaay under theprice I see that you're selling some bamboo and other stuff on eBay - tooearly to keep the culms for the Bishop gathering? If anyone needs bamboo, I've seen some of the same batch of culmsthat Darrell has listed and it is nice. He's also selling some rodmaking books - including Wayne's new book,but don't bid on that auction - I plan on winning at least one of the two up sale. Don Burns PS - search under seller "darrell9" if you are looking for his culms. Else ignore this post and don't search for Wayne's book!!!! --part1_98.1100fc8a.27c973f2_boundary-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat Feb 24 17:35:00 2001 f1ONYue20358 Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:34:16 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Jax Iron? Last year, when I flew to Reading, Pennsylvania with the Sea King I made apointof going to visit Russ Gooding out at Golden Witch, for two main reasons 1) Iwasdying to meet another Bamboo addict (they are few and far between here inEasternCanada) and 2) to bring back that elusive Payne blackening fluid.even atalmost $50Canadian for a little bottle(still worth every cent!). I have protected everydroplike gold as it cannot be shipped into Canada.I remustered(changed jobs in the Canadian Forces) shortly after that tripandrealized I work with blackening fluid every day at work now as aphotographer! Thefixer we use is supposed to be excellent!My question is, can anyone tell me the particulars about using this stuffforblackening?? Do you use it the same way as the Payne formula?? By thesounds ofthings it may just be safer to use as well. Anyone out there have first handexperience with blackening using this stuff??TIA,Shawn marty wrote: I have been using Birchwood Casey's Brass Black for years with nocomplaints. I do not think that steel blackeners will work on NS, Brassor copper or vice versa. Marty I was reading in Gierach's new book that he blackened his bead chain forfly eyes with Jax Iron, a steel and iron blackener, which Mike Clarkuses to blacken his ferrules. Now, I am more than happy with DaveLeClair's NS Oxidizer and have a long time supply (I only make aboutthree or four rods a year). It has performed flawlessly for me and Iprefer to support rodmakers and rodmaker suppliers. But I am alwaysonthe look out for new sources just in case one source dries up. Anyone ever heard of or use this Jax Iron? If it is similar toBirchwood Casey's cold blue I'd like to know so that I can write it offmy list. Dave's stuff is far superior. But if it is working well forsomeone, I'd like to know. Rick C. from dannyt@frisurf.no Sat Feb 24 17:45:26 2001 f1ONjPe20756 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Jax Iron? Hi Shawn, I've been using photo fixer from both Kodak and Ilford with excellentresults. Its easy to use, here is how I do it: I clean the ferrules withalcohol, wash with clean water and let dry. Then I damp a rag with the fixerand rotate the ferrule in the rag until I get the color I want. It takes nomore than a minute to blackend them, I have never timed it, but I think I'mclose..... Then I clean the ferrules with lots of water, and dry it with apaper towel.I leave it like that, with no varnish over, it is so easy to redo them ifthe colore ever wears of.......... regardsdanny from bydesign@cfw.com Sat Feb 24 18:00:56 2001 f1P00te21167 Subject: Consistant mistake/problem This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09E94.2314FBA0 I am working on my 8th rod and have encountered the same situation with =the 7th and now this one. My tip section(3pc rod) seems to veer off =slighty in one direction. It would seem to me that I have a ferrule =station problem, but I am not sure. The section itself seems to be =straight, and the assembled rod appears straight until I sight down with =one eye closed. I would appreciate soem advise and suggestions. Thanks,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09E94.2314FBA0 I am working on my 8th rod and have = seems to be straight, and the assembled rod appears straight until I = suggestions. Thanks,RichYoung ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09E94.2314FBA0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 24 19:39:59 2001 f1P1dxe22562 Subject: Re: consistant mistake /problem This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09E3C.F8F66EA0 I think what you are experiencing here is a eye dominantproblem. I have seen this in many people who target shoot.I myself am right eye dominant ,but my daughter is left eye dominant. =The reason I say this, is that you said the rod appears straight till =you shut one eye. Then it seems crooked.Try this first. Take your right arm and aim along it(while pointing at =an object. Then close your left eye as you sight down your arm with your =right eye. If the object you are looking at stays in the target, you are =right eye dominant.Then try doing the opposite with your left arm sight =with your left eye and close your right eye. The target should appear =to move to the left. If your right eye dominant.If all this works the other way around. And the target moves on your =right eye then you are left eye dominant. You might be sighting down =your rods with the wrong eye. This is common in people who are say( =right handed but left eye dominant) they have trouble shooting to =because they are always shooting to one side or the other ,but they =swear that they are aiming directly at the target. I had a friend I used =to clay shoot with and he could never hit any until I figured out that =was his problem. If it is yours it might make your rods appear to be off =to one side when in actuality they are straight.Try this first. What =keyed me to it is that you said "it was when you sighted down the rod, =and closed one eye". If this is not the problem then look elsewhere.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09E3C.F8F66EA0 Rich I think what you are experiencing here = dominantproblem. I have seen this in many = shoot.I myself am right eye dominant ,but my= left eye dominant. The reason I say this, is that you said the rod = straight till you shut one eye. Then it seems crooked.Try this first. Take your right arm and= it(while pointing at an object. Then close your left eye as you sight = arm with your right eye. If the object you are looking at stays in the = you are right eye dominant.Then try doing the opposite with your left = to move to the left. If your right eye dominant.If all this works the other way around. = target moves on your right eye then you are left eye dominant. You might = sighting down your rods with the wrong eye. This is common in people who = say( right handed but left eye dominant) they have trouble shooting to = they are always shooting to one side or the other ,but they swear that = aiming directly at the target. I had a friend I used to clay shoot with = could never hit any until I figured out that was his problem. If it is = might make your rods appear to be off to one side when in actuality they = straight.Try this first. What keyed me to it is that you said "it was = sighted down the rod, and closed one eye". If this is not the problem = elsewhere.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C09E3C.F8F66EA0-- from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Feb 24 19:49:47 2001 f1P1nke22843 Subject: Re: Consistant mistake /problem 2 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C09E3E.5763E7A0 If this is not the problem then it is most likely in thebinder. Look there next for too much tension or too much weight. Also do =you roll you rods with your palms before glue sets?Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C09E3E.5763E7A0 Rich If this is not the problem then it is = in thebinder. Look there next for too much = sets?TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C09E3E.5763E7A0-- from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Feb 24 21:17:58 2001 f1P3Hve24067 Subject: Re: Consistant mistake/problem This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C09E96.7476CE40 Hi Rich,You may have a ferrule mounting problem indeed. When you mount the rod =section in a lathe there should not be any runout on the rod section if =the section is straight. If there is runout and the section is then =turned for the ferrule fit it could cock the alignment. Try all 3 flat =alternatives in the chuck and you may find one runs truer than the =others. Straighten the rod section before mounting the ferrules.Ray Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 4:01 PMSubject: Consistant mistake/problem I am working on my 8th rod and have encountered the same situation =with the 7th and now this one. My tip section(3pc rod) seems to veer =off slighty in one direction. It would seem to me that I have a ferrule =station problem, but I am not sure. The section itself seems to be =straight, and the assembled rod appears straight until I sight down with =one eye closed. I would appreciate soem advise and suggestions. Thanks,Rich Young ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C09E96.7476CE40 Hi Rich,You may have a ferrule mountingproblem = When you mount the rod section in a lathe there should not be any runout = rod section if the section is straight. If there is runout and the = then turned for the ferrule fit it could cock the alignment. Try all 3 = Straighten the rod section before mounting the ferrules.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Beth =Young Sent: Saturday, February 24, = PMSubject: Consistant =mistake/problem I am working on my 8th rod and have = itself seems to be straight, and the assembled rod appears straight = suggestions. Thanks,Rich =Young ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C09E96.7476CE40-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Sat Feb 24 23:31:24 2001 f1P5VIe25802 with Novell_GroupWise; Sat, 24 Feb 2001 21:31:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Allen f1P5VOe25809 Hi Tony, Not to speak for A.J. but I believe he was comparing running a tapered stripthrough this new finish beveler of Bellinger's to arrive at final dimensions asopposed to hand planing the final .020" (about 20 strokes). A couple minutesor less per strip sounds about right for someone with his experience. A.J. has a hand mill??? I don't think so. 2/24 8:12a >>>OK It was explained to me that Allen has a hand mill.I understand now. Thought for a second I was getting old LOL As Richard thePhoto Copy Guy from Saturday Night Live would say " look at the new guy,Makin the mistake"Bamboominator, Bamboomanarama, Bamboomanalamadingdong. LOL see ifthat word makes it through spell checker?Tony Miller from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sun Feb 25 05:08:14 2001 f1PB8De28778 Subject: I'm no longer a..... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C09EF1.7CC0F020 "bamboo virgin!!" I've been on the list for a few months trying to learn as much as I couldbefore I made my first rod. I took a class this past week with Lon Blauveltand built a Garrison 201E. Wow, what a rod!!!!!! If you will pardon thepun, I'm hooked!!!!!!I've built and repaired "plastic" rods for years, and was getting completelybored with that-it takes little imagination after a while. the subject, but still felt quite daunted. I also didn't want to investtime/money in tools if I wasn't going to like it. Unfortunately, we have about 3 feet of snow on the ground up here in centralMaine and expecting more today, so it will be a while before I get to putthe rod through its paces!!I can't wait to get set up to start making them. I already have my next 3planned out!! Sorry for the bandwidth, but I just had to share my excitement! John K. ------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C09EF1.7CC0F020 "bamboo =virgin!!" I've been on the list for a few = hooked!!!!!!I've built and repaired = imagination after a while. way = read some wonderful books on the subject, but still felt quite = also didn't want to invest time/money in tools if I wasn't going to like = it. Unfortunately, we have about 3 feet of snow on the = here in central Maine and expecting more today, so it will be a while = I can't wait to get set up to start making = already have my next 3 planned out!! Sorry for the bandwidth, but I just had to share excitement! John K. ------=_NextPart_000_0063_01C09EF1.7CC0F020-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 25 06:50:31 2001 f1PCoUe29630 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 08:49:51 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... --------------B6B53CBFC695671B1EA66392 John,welcome to our nightmare! Kiss your bank account, spare time,unusedareas ofyour house/workshop, wife and any portion of sanity you have good bye.Before youknow it you'll be like the rest of us babbling bamboo-philes, unable tocomplete athought or sentence unless it is bamboo related! Congratulations!, ShawnP.S. It's not really that bad.....it's worse! John Kenealy wrote: "bamboo virgin!!" I've been on the list for a few months trying to learn asmuchas I could before I made my first rod. I took a class this past week withLonBlauvelt and built a Garrison 201E. Wow, what a rod!!!!!! If you will pardonthepun, I'm hooked!!!!!!I've built and repaired "plastic" rods for years, and wasgetting completely bored with that-it takes little imagination after a while.Forme, taking a class was the way to go- I've read some wonderful books onthesubject, but still felt quite daunted. I also didn't want to investtime/money intools if I wasn't going to like it. Unfortunately, we have about 3 feet ofsnow onthe ground up here in central Maine and expecting more today, so it will bea whilebefore I get to put the rod through its paces!!I can't wait to get set up tostartmaking them. I already have my next 3 planned out!! Sorry for thebandwidth, but Ijust had to share my excitement! John K. --------------B6B53CBFC695671B1EA66392 John, nightmare!Kiss your bank account, spare time,unused areas of your house/workshop,wife and any portion of sanity you have good bye. Before you know it you'llbe like the rest of us babbling bamboo-philes, unable to complete a thoughtor sentence unless it is bamboo related! Congratulations!, ShawnP.S. It's not really that bad.....it's worse!John Kenealy wrote: beenon the list for a few months trying to learn as much as I could before pardon the pun, I'm hooked!!!!!!I'vebuilt and repaired "plastic" rods for years, and was getting completelybored with that-it takes little imagination after a me, taking a class was the way to go- I've read some wonderful books on invest time/money in tools if I wasn't going to like we have about 3 feet of snow on the ground up here in central Maine andexpecting more today, so it will be a while before I get to put the rodthrough its paces!!I can't wait to get set up to start K. --------------B6B53CBFC695671B1EA66392-- from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 25 07:18:42 2001 f1PDIfe00010 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0AA0_01C09EFA.CAE08BE0 Amen, Shawn... On the other hand, I've got three ex-wives, and I've =never had one of my rods complain about me taking off on fishing trips, =leaving my socks in the living room floor or spending time with the lady =flyfishers, etc... *S* Bob-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 6:56 AMSubject: Re: I'm no longer a..... welcome to our nightmare! Kiss your bank account, spare =time,unused areas of your house/workshop, wife and any portion of sanity =you have good bye. Before you know it you'll be like the rest of us =babbling bamboo- philes, unable to complete a thought or sentence unless = = = "bamboo virgin!!" I've been on the list for a few months trying =to learn as much as I could before I made my first rod. I took a class =this past week with Lon Blauvelt and built a Garrison 201E. Wow, what a =rod!!!!!! If you will pardon the pun, I'm hooked!!!!!!I've built and =repaired "plastic" rods for years, and was getting completely bored with =that-it takes little imagination after a while. For me, taking a class =was the way to go- I've read some wonderful books on the subject, but =still felt quite daunted. I also didn't want to invest time/money in =tools if I wasn't going to like it. Unfortunately, we have about 3 feet =of snow on the ground up here in central Maine and expecting more today, =so it will be a while before I get to put the rod through its paces!!I =can't wait to get set up to start making them. I already have my next 3 =planned out!! Sorry for the bandwidth, but I just had to share my =excitement! John K. ------=_NextPart_000_0AA0_01C09EFA.CAE08BE0 Amen, Shawn... On the other hand,= ex-wives, and I've never had one of my rods complain about me taking off = fishing trips, leaving my socks in the living room floor or spending = the lady flyfishers, etc... *S* Bob -----Original = Shawn Pineo <nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca&g= mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalle= <mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalle= Rodmakers <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sunday, February 25, 2001 6:56 AMSubject: Re: I'm no= house/workshop, wife and any portion of sanity you have good bye. = know it you'll be like the rest of us babbling bamboo-philes, unable = = = trying to learn as much as I could before I made my first = took a class this past week with Lon Blauvelt and built a = and repaired "plastic" rods for years, and was getting = taking a class was the way to go- I've read some wonderful books = of snow on the ground up here in central Maine and expecting = paces!!I can't wait to get set up to = K. ------=_NextPart_000_0AA0_01C09EFA.CAE08BE0-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 25 07:24:05 2001 f1PDO4e00257 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:23:25 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... He He He!! That reminds me of one other thing I forgot Bob, you'll constantlybewaiting to hear that incoming mail notification on your computer too John. Iusuallyleave mine up and running so I can tell immediately I have Bamboo related infoon mycomputer. I warned you this isn't pretty!;^)Shawn from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sun Feb 25 07:35:55 2001 f1PDZse00546 Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... f1PDZse00547 Thanks for all the kind words and encouragement to all!!! I've been tying flies for over 25 years(started by taking a class from RonKusse at HL Leonard Rod-I grew up 20 minutes from Central Valley- went toschool in Washingtonville, where Ron lives- then off to college and settledhere in Maine-so I guess that I have come full circle) and still get greatsatisfaction out of tying new patterns and trying them out. This will bemuch the same, but on a larger scale!!!! I can honestly say that I apreciate how helpful people on the list are to eachother and I hope some day, after more experience, that I'll be able to share alittle knowledge with others. John K.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... He He He!! That reminds me of one other thing I forgot Bob, you'll constantlybewaiting to hear that incoming mail notification on your computer too John. Iusuallyleave mine up and running so I can tell immediately I have Bamboo relatedinfo on mycomputer. I warned you this isn't pretty!;^)Shawn from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 25 07:48:54 2001 f1PDmre00835 ; Sun, 25 Feb 2001 08:48:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Allen Chris is right. I know from corresponding with A.J. that he does not have a Hand Mill. We had talked about whether it was a feasible way to finish strips off of the beveller. I know a few others who can whack out a great strip with a plane and a beveller in that time. If you are using a beveller that tapers strips, these numbers are pretty fair. Even with a rough beveller that does not taper, one with skill can do a strip fast. I think it is a matter of not worrying a bout angles because they are dead on. If you have a ritual for doing things, time is not as big a factor. Whack out some strips and have three planes ready to go. You will be done in no time. If you had a butt form and a tip form, you'd be in business.One thing I think is odd is how none of the machines (Until now) are recommended to give you final dimensions. However, almost every machine used in the classic era did so, right? Payne, or South Bend for that matter, was not finishing off strips by hand, right? You'd think we could do better.Bob At 09:30 PM 2/24/2001 -0800, you wrote:Hi Tony, Not to speak for A.J. but I believe he was comparing running a tapered strip through this new finish beveler of Bellinger's to arrive at final dimensions as opposed to hand planing the final .020" (about 20 strokes). A couple minutes or less per strip sounds about right for someone with his experience. A.J. has a hand mill??? I don't think so. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from channer1@rmi.net Sun Feb 25 08:29:41 2001 f1PETee02004 2001 07:29:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Allen Bob;It's not that we can't do better than the old production companies now,it's more that none of us have the money it takes to build a machinethat will cut finished strips ready to glue. I have talked to Ron Kusseabout this and from what I understand, it takes a sizeable commitment tobuild such a machine, around $25,000 would get it built.John Bob Maulucci wrote: Chris is right. I know from corresponding with A.J. that he does not have aHand Mill. We had talked about whether it was a feasible way to finishstrips off of the beveller. I know a few others who can whack out a greatstrip with a plane and a beveller in that time. If you are using a bevellerthat tapers strips, these numbers are pretty fair. Even with a roughbeveller that does not taper, one with skill can do a strip fast. I thinkit is a matter of not worrying a bout angles because they are dead on. Ifyou have a ritual for doing things, time is not as big a factor. Whack outsome strips and have three planes ready to go. You will be done in no time.If you had a butt form and a tip form, you'd be in business.One thing I think is odd is how none of the machines (Until now) arerecommended to give you final dimensions. However, almost every machineused in the classic era did so, right? Payne, or South Bend for thatmatter, was not finishing off strips by hand, right? You'd think we coulddo better.Bob At 09:30 PM 2/24/2001 -0800, you wrote:Hi Tony, Not to speak for A.J. but I believe he was comparing running a taperedstrip through this new finish beveler of Bellinger's to arrive at finaldimensions as opposed to hand planing the final .020" (about 20strokes). A couple minutes or less per strip sounds about right forsomeone with his experience. A.J. has a hand mill??? I don't think so. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 25 10:15:51 2001 f1PGFne03022 Subject: Re: Allen This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C09EB7.5909EB80 Sorry guysonce again I screwed up. I was told it was a beveler, but instead got it =confused with hand mill. I'm trying to complete a rod for the show ,I'm = I'm running close on the time. It's the one with the rattangrip that everyone on the list was kind enough to share the information =on how to go about it. BTW thanks to all who helped. But running close =to time has made me make some mistakes, because I should be working on = playing on the computer. LOL But I can't help it I just love to talk rod = Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C09EB7.5909EB80 Sorry guysonce again I screwed up. I was told it = beveler, but instead got it confused with hand mill. I'm trying to = rod for the show ,I'm doing in a two weeks, and I'm running close on the time. It's the = the rattangrip that everyone on the list was kind= share the information on how to go about it. BTW thanks to all who = running close to time has made me make some mistakes, because I should = working on the rod instead of playing on the computer. LOL But I = just love to talk rod making. TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C09EB7.5909EB80-- from Lazybee45@aol.com Sun Feb 25 10:27:52 2001 f1PGRpe03358 Subject: a couple of rod tapers Okey Doke. I did a bit of measuring this AM these rods are from a friend. The Casting rod has ZERO identifying marks but appears to be of fair quality. It has been used a lot. Any of you who know anything about, I would apreceate any information you have.As to the other rod, I have an identifying mark JAY HARVEY under the reel seat. opinions here, it is in "fair" shape. useable, but not pretty. should I go to a bunch of trouble and make it nice, or simply clean it up and give it back as a decoration for my buddy. (it was his grandfathers rod) Any purposes.I am probably going to restore the Casting rod for him if possible (it looks nice really!) so tips on this would be helpful as well.thanks, mark Casting Rod2 piece 84 3/4 overall lengthTip 42 1/4 Tip .115 .1310 .1415 .1620 .17824 .1930 .235 .21 40 .225ferrule45 .23+50 .2455 .2660 .2865 .2970 .373 .31 the grip is 11 3/8 long and is flared at both ends and has a pair of aluminum rings to capture the reel foot. overall quality is pretty nice! It does have brass/chrome plate ferrules, but they seem to be fairly nice. Jay Harveythis has a good amount of varnish on it the casting rod doesn't seem to have nearly as much. Tip 1 38 1/2 inches tip 2 is the SAME except it is 37 5/8 tip .095 .1110 .1215 .1420 .1525 .1730 .1835 .19 mid section measured from the end of the rod 1.12 inches below the tip ofthe ferrule. OL 39 inches tip (just aft of the ferrule)tip .25 .2210 .2315 .25520 .2725 .2930 .335 .31 Butt 38 3/4 OL measured from 1.34 below the ferrule tip. tip .3255 .3410 .3515 .3620 .3723 1/2 the butt starts to swell noticably!25 .43527 .49note 1/2 back the butt measures .5 under silk wraps."Piscator non solum Piscatur" "Piscator non solum Piscatur" from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 25 10:35:49 2001 f1PGZme03618 Subject: Re:I'm no longer a..... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09EBA.14C90D40 John Don't worry too much about your marriage.I've been married 17 yrs to the same women andShe doesn't mind the rod making toomuch (I don't Think?)LOLEven though she complains about not having a kitchen andsaying things like play with me instead of those fishing rods.OK forget what I said earlier. If you need me to give you the name of my =florist let me know. They have the Anthony Miller special ( a dozen =roses). Make sure they save you a table at the local fancy restaurant on =Fridays, a good supply of apology cards from HallMark and start becoming =friends with the local jeweler( sadly If he isn't into fly fishing you =will have to force him , to make him understand)LOLBut don't let me discourage you, I think my wife is looking into a group = Just kidding here LOL good luck and have funTony MiIler ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09EBA.14C90D40 JohnCongratulations and good luck. = marriage.I've been married 17 yrs to the same = andShe doesn't mind the rod making =too Think?)LOLEven though she complains about not = kitchen andsaying things like play with me instead = fishing rods.OK forget what I said earlier. If you = give you the name of my florist let me know. They have the Anthony = special ( a dozen roses). Make sure they save you a table at the local = restaurant on Fridays, a good supply of apology cards from HallMark and = becoming friends with the local jeweler( sadly If he isn't into fly = will have to force him , to make him understand)LOLBut don't let me discourage you, I = Just kidding here LOL good luck and = funTony MiIlerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09EBA.14C90D40-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 25 10:40:31 2001 f1PGeUe03847 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 12:39:51 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Allen Bob and all,Did the "Bastard" machine mill to final?? Seems to me Irememberhe had a bale of money tied up in it and he went on quite a bit about it on hiswebpage when it was up.Shawn Bob Maulucci wrote: Chris is right. I know from corresponding with A.J. that he does not have aHand Mill. We had talked about whether it was a feasible way to finishstrips off of the beveller. I know a few others who can whack out a greatstrip with a plane and a beveller in that time. If you are using a bevellerthat tapers strips, these numbers are pretty fair. Even with a roughbeveller that does not taper, one with skill can do a strip fast. I thinkit is a matter of not worrying a bout angles because they are dead on. Ifyou have a ritual for doing things, time is not as big a factor. Whack outsome strips and have three planes ready to go. You will be done in no time.If you had a butt form and a tip form, you'd be in business.One thing I think is odd is how none of the machines (Until now) arerecommended to give you final dimensions. However, almost every machineused in the classic era did so, right? Payne, or South Bend for thatmatter, was not finishing off strips by hand, right? You'd think we coulddo better.Bob At 09:30 PM 2/24/2001 -0800, you wrote:Hi Tony, Not to speak for A.J. but I believe he was comparing running a taperedstrip through this new finish beveler of Bellinger's to arrive at finaldimensions as opposed to hand planing the final .020" (about 20strokes). A couple minutes or less per strip sounds about right forsomeone with his experience. A.J. has a hand mill??? I don't think so. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sun Feb 25 10:41:57 2001 f1PGfue04036 Subject: Re:I'm no longer a..... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09F20.162B9A20 Thanks Tony, She actually got a casting lesson from Cathy Beck a few weeks ago, andseemspretty interested in the whole thing- so maybe if I make her a fly rod,it'll save on flowers, cards and dinners?????????John K. -----Original Message-----From: Tony Miller Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 11:37 AMSubject: Re:I'm no longer a..... JohnCongratulations and good luck.Don't worry too much about your marriage.I've been married 17 yrs to the same women andShe doesn't mind the rod making toomuch (I don't Think?)LOLEven though she complains about not having a kitchen andsaying things like play with me instead of those fishing rods.OK forget what I said earlier. If you need me to give you the name of myflorist let me know. They have the Anthony Miller special ( a dozen roses).Make sure they save you a table at the local fancy restaurant on Fridays, agood supply of apology cards from HallMark and start becoming friends withthe local jeweler( sadly If he isn't into fly fishing you will have to forcehim , to make him understand)LOLBut don't let me discourage you, I think my wife is looking into a grouptherapy for wives of rod makers.Just kidding here LOL good luck and have funTony MiIlerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09F20.162B9A20 Thanks Tony, She actually got a casting lesson from Cathy Beck a= ago, and seems pretty interested in the whole thing- so maybe if I make = fly rod, it'll save on flowers, cards and dinners?????????John K. -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sunday, February 25, 2001 11:37 AMSubject: Re:I'm no= a.....JohnCongratulations and good luck. = marriage.I've been married 17 yrs to the = and too Think?)LOLEven though she complains about not= kitchen andsaying things like play with me = those fishing rods.OK forget what I said earlier. If = to give you the name of my florist let me know. They have the = special ( a dozen roses). Make sure they save you a table at the = restaurant on Fridays, a good supply of apology cards from HallMark = start becoming friends with the local jeweler( sadly If he isn't = fishing you will have to force him , to make him =understand)LOLBut don't let me discourage you, I = Just kidding here LOL good luck and = funTony MiIlerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C09F20.162B9A20-- from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 25 10:52:30 2001 f1PGqTe04374 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Allen It did after several revisions, repairs and modifications, but I've neverseen a blank milled on it, so I don't know how well it milled to finals. Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Allen Bob and all,Did the "Bastard" machine mill to final?? Seems to me Irememberhe had a bale of money tied up in it and he went on quite a bit about it onhis webpage when it was up.Shawn Bob Maulucci wrote: Chris is right. I know from corresponding with A.J. that he does not haveaHand Mill. We had talked about whether it was a feasible way to finishstrips off of the beveller. I know a few others who can whack out a greatstrip with a plane and a beveller in that time. If you are using abevellerthat tapers strips, these numbers are pretty fair. Even with a roughbeveller that does not taper, one with skill can do a strip fast. I thinkit is a matter of not worrying a bout angles because they are dead on. Ifyou have a ritual for doing things, time is not as big a factor. Whackoutsome strips and have three planes ready to go. You will be done in notime.If you had a butt form and a tip form, you'd be in business.One thing I think is odd is how none of the machines (Until now) arerecommended to give you final dimensions. However, almost everymachineused in the classic era did so, right? Payne, or South Bend for thatmatter, was not finishing off strips by hand, right? You'd think we coulddo better.Bob At 09:30 PM 2/24/2001 -0800, you wrote:Hi Tony, Not to speak for A.J. but I believe he was comparing running a taperedstrip through this new finish beveler of Bellinger's to arrive at finaldimensions as opposed to hand planing the final .020" (about 20strokes). A couple minutes or less per strip sounds about right forsomeone with his experience. A.J. has a hand mill??? I don't think so. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from flyfish@defnet.com Sun Feb 25 10:54:52 2001 f1PGspe04607 Subject: Re: John K This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09EBC.D183F420 JohnI'm just having fun here.I actually have been married 17yrs and my wife(Tammy) and 13yr old =daughter(Cindy) both fly fish and are pretty good atit . In fact fly fishing has been a focal point for me and my wife to =share time and would definitely contribute to the success of my =marriage. (Including the rod building)I'm 35 and my generation is NOT known for successful marriages. I got =the award for being married the longest at my 15 yr HS reunion. No =other couple even came close in years. I owe fly fishing allot.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09EBC.D183F420 JohnI'm just having fun here.I actually have been married 17yrs and= wife(Tammy) and 13yr old daughter(Cindy) both fly fish and are pretty = atit . In fact fly fishing has = point for me and my wife to share time and would definitely contribute = success of my marriage. (Including the rod building) = fishing allot.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C09EBC.D183F420-- from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Sun Feb 25 12:02:34 2001 f1PI2Xe05635 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:01:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Allen I really don't know. But with all the huffing and puffing George does on his site about milling machine problems, maybe he should have a Hand Mill or two and a roughing beveller. Instead of wasting months building and rebuilding a machine, he could be spitting out glue line free rods. (OK, maybe not perfect, but light on the glue lines at worst).Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from dpvbkjs@somtel.com Sun Feb 25 13:44:15 2001 f1PJiEe07278 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:44:02 -0500 Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... Hi, John.. ...and congratulations! If you ever want to "talk bamboo" here in CentralMaine, just let us know. We're in Mercer, between Augusta and Farmington. And in keeping with the thread on the list, we've been married (forever)and find this addiction mutually enjoyable. Kathy (with David over my shoulder) from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sun Feb 25 14:59:57 2001 f1PKxue08446 +0100 Subject: PHY Perfectionist This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C09F77.864A1320 Listers A couple of days ago I asked for an estimate of a PHY Perfectionistand had several answers on/off list. I know this is perhaps not de rigeur, but if somebody have any ideas ashow to dispose of such a rod, or would like to buyit, please contact me off list. It is not my rod,and I do not have anyfinancial interest, excepy but to help a friend. regards, carsten ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C09F77.864A1320 Listers A couple of days ago I asked for an = PHY Perfectionistand had several answers on/off =list. I know this is perhaps not de rigeur, = somebody have any ideas ashow to dispose of such a rod, or would= buyit, please contact me off list. It is = rod,and I do not have anyfinancial interest, excepy but to help = friend. regards, carsten ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C09F77.864A1320-- from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 25 16:17:51 2001 f1PMHoe09718 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... John, You started in the House of Leonard and now reside in the area ofFE Thomas. You are starting with a very good pedigree! Be carfull withyour cash for you have caught the disease with no known cure. Marty Thanks for all the kind words and encouragement to all!!! I've been tying flies for over 25 years(started by taking a class from RonKusse at HL Leonard Rod-I grew up 20 minutes from Central Valley- went toschool in Washingtonville, where Ron lives- then off to college and settledhere in Maine-so I guess that I have come full circle) and still get greatsatisfaction out of tying new patterns and trying them out. This will bemuch the same, but on a larger scale!!!! I can honestly say that I apreciate how helpful people on the list are toeach other and I hope some day, after more experience, that I'll be able toshare a little knowledge with others. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: Rod Makers List Serve Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 8:25 AMSubject: Re: I'm no longer a..... He He He!! That reminds me of one other thing I forgot Bob, you'llconstantly bewaiting to hear that incoming mail notification on your computer too John.I usuallyleave mine up and running so I can tell immediately I have Bamboo relatedinfo on mycomputer. I warned you this isn't pretty!;^)Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Feb 25 16:26:39 2001 f1PMQce10047 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page once again and Ihave aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs for my page. IhaveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related to rodbuilding. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others here looking so Ifiguredthe non related thing was a non issue. from horsesho@ptd.net Sun Feb 25 16:27:58 2001 f1PMRve10195 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: a couple of rod tapers Mark, Jay Harvey is a trade name of a sporting goods house out ofPhiladelphia named EK Tryon & Co.. Another trade name of this companywas Kingfisher. The early rods which I think yours is was made byMontague rod co. They are usually a higher grade Montague. Later rodswere made by Heddon. Value for a 91/2' Harvey with 1 full length tip and1 short in EX. cond. is $100-125. Okey Doke. I did a bit of measuring this AM these rods are from a friend.The Casting rod has ZERO identifying marks but appears to be of fairquality.It has been used a lot. Any of you who know anything about, I wouldapreceate any information you have.As to the other rod, I have an identifying mark JAY HARVEY under thereel seat. opinions here, it is in "fair" shape. useable, but not pretty.should I go to a bunch of trouble and make it nice, or simply clean it up andgive it back as a decoration for my buddy. (it was his grandfathers rod) Any purposes.I am probably going to restore the Casting rod for him if possible (it looksnice really!) so tips on this would be helpful as well.thanks,mark Casting Rod2 piece 84 3/4 overall lengthTip 42 1/4 Tip .115 .1310 .1415 .1620 .17824 .1930 .235 .2140 .225ferrule45 .23+50 .2455 .2660 .2865 .2970 .373 .31 the grip is 11 3/8 long and is flared at both ends and has a pair ofaluminum rings to capture the reel foot. overall quality is pretty nice! Itdoes have brass/chrome plate ferrules, but they seem to be fairly nice. Jay Harveythis has a good amount of varnish on it the casting rod doesn't seem tohave nearly as much. Tip 1 38 1/2 inches tip 2 is the SAME except it is 37 5/8 tip .095 .1110 .1215 .1420 .1525 .1730 .1835 .19 mid section measured from the end of the rod 1.12 inches below the tip oftheferrule. OL 39 inches tip (just aft of the ferrule)tip .25 .2210 .2315 .25520 .2725 .2930 .335 .31 Butt 38 3/4 OL measured from 1.34 below the ferrule tip. tip .3255 .3410 .3515 .3620 .3723 1/2 the butt starts to swell noticably!25 .43527 .49note 1/2 back the butt measures .5 under silk wraps."Piscator non solum Piscatur" "Piscator non solum Piscatur" from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sun Feb 25 16:49:21 2001 f1PMnKe10774 Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... f1PMnLe10775 Thanks so much!! It's good to know that there are other "Mainiacs" out there!!!!!! You are just a"stone's throw away- we should talk bamboo!! John K.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: I'm no longer a..... Hi, John.. ...and congratulations! If you ever want to "talk bamboo" here in CentralMaine, just let us know. We're in Mercer, between Augusta and Farmington. And in keeping with the thread on the list, we've been married (forever)and find this addiction mutually enjoyable. Kathy (with David over my shoulder) from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sun Feb 25 17:01:15 2001 f1PN19e11204 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart f1PN1Ee11205 Shawn, I'm not sure where to get that stuff, but I have a bit of advice: Stay away from the animated stuff. It takes longer to download, takesattention away from the subject at hand and looks less professional than astraightforward site. I know my site isn't perfect, by any means, but I've had a site for about 3+years now and this is what I've learned along the way. John K.-----Original Message----- Subject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page once again and Ihave aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs for my page.I haveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related to rodbuilding. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others here looking so Ifiguredthe non related thing was a non issue. from trippma@mindspring.com Sun Feb 25 18:17:35 2001 f1Q0HZe12882 Subject: test. Disregard test from ttalsma@macatawa.org Sun Feb 25 18:46:29 2001 f1Q0kTe13621 Service Version 5.5.2448.0) Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart I would beg to differ that an animation makes a site look lessprofessional. I feel that if done right, an animation actually enhancesa site and brings a visitor farther into a site. Yes, some animationsare tacky or detract from the site, but if you have something that isrelated to your field that is animated, why not use it. Also, if theyare done right, they don't need to be any larger than static files. I don't personally know about any fly fishing specific web art, butthere are definately a ton of sites that you could check. You just needto work the search engines to find what you want. Personally, I think work, not clip art anyway. Just my 2 cents. John Kenealy wrote: Shawn, I'm not sure where to get that stuff, but I have a bit of advice: Stay away from the animated stuff. It takes longer to download, takesattention away from the subject at hand and looks less professionalthan a straightforward site. I know my site isn't perfect, by any means, but I've had a site forabout 3+ years now and this is what I've learned along the way. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 5:28 PMSubject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page onceagain and I have aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs formy page. I haveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related torod building. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others herelooking so I figuredthe non related thing was a non issue. --Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy home page:http://member.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Sun Feb 25 19:03:29 2001 f1Q13Se14139 RAA29773 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart If you have a slow connection animations are a real pain. they can be quitelarge and take forever to download. It got to the point that I started using a program that filters them out.The program allows me to selectively filter all advertisements, cookies,animations, backgroung music and pop-up windows and java applets andscripts. Make browsing much quicker and the companies that profile yourevery click don't learn a bit about me. Animations can be catchy but they can also annoy as well. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart I would beg to differ that an animation makes a site look lessprofessional. I feel that if done right, an animation actually enhancesa site and brings a visitor farther into a site. Yes, some animationsare tacky or detract from the site, but if you have something that isrelated to your field that is animated, why not use it. Also, if theyare done right, they don't need to be any larger than static files. I don't personally know about any fly fishing specific web art, butthere are definately a ton of sites that you could check. You just needto work the search engines to find what you want. Personally, I think work, not clip art anyway. Just my 2 cents. John Kenealy wrote: Shawn, I'm not sure where to get that stuff, but I have a bit of advice: Stay away from the animated stuff. It takes longer to download, takesattention away from the subject at hand and looks less professionalthan a straightforward site. I know my site isn't perfect, by any means, but I've had a site forabout 3+ years now and this is what I've learned along the way. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 5:28 PMSubject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page onceagain and I have aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs formy page. I haveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related torod building. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others herelooking so I figuredthe non related thing was a non issue. --Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy home page:http://member.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sun Feb 25 19:08:22 2001 f1Q18Le14375 Sun, 25 Feb 2001 17:08:14 -0800 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 01:08:14 GMT Subject: Re: Allen FILETIME=[986C3830:01C09F90] He did use it to final taper the strips(and does) but the results would not be acceptable to anyone I know. There were prominant glue lines interspersed with even more prominent glue gaps, tolerances were +- .030. The taper doesn't mean much at that point in time. Trying to compete with a low line Montague doen't seem to be a productive use of time and effort. As to the question of the old rodmakers and their bevelers there was alot of variation in the tapers. I think that is why we get such a variation in the tapers that are posted to the list of supposedly the same rod model. I built a saw beveler that does indeed do a strip to finish taper in one pass in about 2-2 1/2 min but it is delicate, cranky and hard to keep in regulation. Easier to rely on the most adaptable tools ever used by man... the hand,eye, and brain.A.J.Thramer From: nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca (Shawn Pineo) CC: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: AllenDate: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 12:43:22 -0500 Bob and all,Did the "Bastard" machine mill to final?? Seems to me I rememberhe had a bale of money tied up in it and he went on quite a bit about it on his webpage when it was up.Shawn _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from caneman@clnk.com Sun Feb 25 21:34:26 2001 f1Q3YPe16722 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart Shawn,I have a good friend in Livingston, Montana, that is one of theforemost fishing artist in the country... his name is Michael Simons. He iscurrently designing a "logo" for me, and he has done this for many,including Steve and Charlie Jenkins, Goldenwitch, etc. You might want tocontact him and have him do a logo for you... believe me, it's well worththe price, which is VERY modest considering what many graphic artistschargethese days. Michael did the Mural on the FFF Flyfishing Museum wall and iscurrently doing a series of trout paintings on consignment from one of thosefamous "plate" companies. Contact him at afgantrout@aol.com , I promiseyouwill not be disappointed in either his prices or his work.Usual disclamer... no commercial or financial interest, etc.... Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page once again andI have aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs for mypage. I haveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related to rodbuilding. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others here looking so Ifiguredthe non related thing was a non issue. from goodaple@tcac.net Sun Feb 25 21:39:52 2001 f1Q3dle16970 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensed1ebd4f8b91132ed01cf0e3e933da025) 0600 Subject: Shawn Pineo / Taper Request Organization: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09F73.F6CA91A0 Shawn, Do you still have the taper for a Bill Stanley Favorite 7ft.3/4 =wt? If so could you send it to me? I would really appreciate it. Also =have you made a rod off of this taper and how did you like it? What =action would you say it has? Thanks in advance, Randall R. Gregory NW = ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09F73.F6CA91A0 Shawn, Do you still have the taper for = Stanley Favorite 7ft.3/4 wt? If so could you send it to me? I would = appreciate it. Also have you made a rod off of this taper and how did = it? What action would you say it has? Thanks in advance, Randall R. = ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C09F73.F6CA91A0-- from miangler@yahoo.com Mon Feb 26 00:09:20 2001 f1Q69Ke19538 2001 22:09:21 PST Subject: Hello there! My name is Mike Janik, and on the advice of about 15people from the VFS rod building board I am now here. I fell in love with cane rods about a year ago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into buildingthem (since I can't afford to buy all of the ones Iwant) so I am an absolute novice. I am just nowbeginning to buy some tools and am saving up for a setof planing forms. I am probably about 2 years away from actually having everything to start building so Ihope that you'll all be patient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions. Here are a few ofthem: The first one takes guts, but I was wonderingif any rodmakers out there would be interested indonating some of their scrap bamboo so that I mightbegin practicing splitting, straightening, andrough-planing strips. I live in Kalamazoo, MI so ifthere is anyone within a 100 mile radius that isinterested in helping me, I could come and pick it up.Second, I want the first rod I build to be based on aDickerson steelhead/salmon taper, but after that Iwant to build myself a baitcasting rod for muskyfishing (my only non-fly fishing obsession... noreason I can't do it on a cane rod?!?) does anyoneknow of a taper for such a rod? Third, has anyone outthere built a bamboo two- handed spey casting rod? Iam interested in something that would cast an 8/9line. Thanks for the help! I am humbled and honoredto be in such great company! Mike miangler@yahoo.com =====http://miangler.homestead.com/home.html __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from flyfish@defnet.com Mon Feb 26 00:19:17 2001 f1Q6JHe19890 Subject: Re:Hello there This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C09F2D.1B462360 Hi MikeGlad to have you aboard. This is a great list with a great bunch of =people.I live within a 100 miles of you in Defiance, OhioI might be able to set you up with a culm to practice with. Southfield , Michigan March 10th And 11thTony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C09F2D.1B462360 Hi MikeGlad to have you aboard. This is a = a great bunch of people.I live within a 100 miles of you in = OhioI might be able to set you up with a = practice with.I'm also gonna be at the Michigan fly = in Southfield , Michigan March 10th 11thTony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C09F2D.1B462360-- from stpete@netten.net Mon Feb 26 00:59:39 2001 f1Q6xce20610 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 01:03:27 -0600 Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike, Indeed you should be humbled to be among us. Almost every man here is atopnotch engineer, a meticulous artisan, and of impeccable reputation.Our rods are, in general, flawless. We share a unique bond in that wehave suffered many tireless years learning this craft. (We have evenbeen known to go so far as to actually go fishing every now and then.)I have met many of the fine fellows on this list. The collectiveknowledge among us is absolutely astounding. You should find the timeto go to a rodmaker's gathering. There you can sit up all night andlisten to the profound and enlightening shards of wisdom this group willshare with the select few who have elected to join us. I hope you areprepared for this arduous journey. Perhaps one day, after a long anddifficult apprenticeship, you will actually begin to understand stresscharts. Keep in mind that very few people have the mental capacity andphysical dexterity to build bamboo fly rods. Don't become disgusted ifyou are not one of them. If you don't believe me, then go tohttp://www.curro.net/ and take a look at some of the rodmakingimpresarios at the Grayrock and Southern Rodmakers Gatherings. Rick C. P.S. Get some steel and start making your forms. Mike Janik wrote: My name is Mike Janik,... I fell in love with cane rods about a yearago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into building them ... so I aman absolute novice.... I am probably about 2 years away from actuallyhaving everything to start building so I hope that you'll all bepatient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions.... Thanks for the help! I amhumbled and honored to be in such great company!Mikemiangler@yahoo.com from caneman@clnk.com Mon Feb 26 05:03:02 2001 f1QB31e23826 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Hello there! LMAO... Don't know what else to say, but what a way to wake up in themorning, to such words of wisdom from Mr. Rick! Sorry, hard to type with these tears in my eyes! Bob-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike, Indeed you should be humbled to be among us. Almost every man here is atopnotch engineer, a meticulous artisan, and of impeccable reputation.Our rods are, in general, flawless. We share a unique bond in that wehave suffered many tireless years learning this craft. (We have evenbeen known to go so far as to actually go fishing every now and then.)I have met many of the fine fellows on this list. The collectiveknowledge among us is absolutely astounding. You should find the timeto go to a rodmaker's gathering. There you can sit up all night andlisten to the profound and enlightening shards of wisdom this groupwill>share with the select few who have elected to join us. I hope you areprepared for this arduous journey. Perhaps one day, after a long anddifficult apprenticeship, you will actually begin to understand stresscharts. Keep in mind that very few people have the mental capacity andphysical dexterity to build bamboo fly rods. Don't become disgusted ifyou are not one of them. If you don't believe me, then go tohttp://www.curro.net/ and take a look at some of the rodmakingimpresarios at the Grayrock and Southern Rodmakers Gatherings. Rick C. P.S. Get some steel and start making your forms. Mike Janik wrote: My name is Mike Janik,... I fell in love with cane rods about a yearago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into building them ... so I aman absolute novice.... I am probably about 2 years away from actuallyhaving everything to start building so I hope that you'll all bepatient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions.... Thanks for the help! I amhumbled and honored to be in such great company!Mikemiangler@yahoo.com from dnorl@qwest.net Mon Feb 26 05:23:56 2001 f1QBNte24195 (63.228.44.236) Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike,If you are a graphite rod builder, you have probably got a whole closet fullof rods. This journey you are about to take is quite an adventure. Don'thurry through it with the thought that you have to get a rod made. Savor allthe steps along the way. Keep in mind that you dont need another rod.Dave-----Original Message----- Subject: Hello there! My name is Mike Janik, and on the advice of about 15people from the VFS rod building board I am now here.I fell in love with cane rods about a year ago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into buildingthem (since I can't afford to buy all of the ones Iwant) so I am an absolute novice. I am just nowbeginning to buy some tools and am saving up for a setof planing forms. I am probably about 2 years away from actually having everything to start building so Ihope that you'll all be patient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions. Here are a few ofthem: The first one takes guts, but I was wonderingif any rodmakers out there would be interested indonating some of their scrap bamboo so that I mightbegin practicing splitting, straightening, andrough-planing strips. I live in Kalamazoo, MI so ifthere is anyone within a 100 mile radius that isinterested in helping me, I could come and pick it up.Second, I want the first rod I build to be based on aDickerson steelhead/salmon taper, but after that Iwant to build myself a baitcasting rod for muskyfishing (my only non-fly fishing obsession... noreason I can't do it on a cane rod?!?) does anyoneknow of a taper for such a rod? Third, has anyone outthere built a bamboo two- handed spey casting rod? Iam interested in something that would cast an 8/9line. Thanks for the help! I am humbled and honoredto be in such great company! Mike miangler@yahoo.com =====http://miangler.homestead.com/home.html __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from icezeb@tutopia.com Mon Feb 26 05:27:21 2001 f1QBRKe24397 3A93D4C9000A2ECA for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 26 Feb 200103:27:15 -0800 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 11:27:13 +0000 Subject: bamboo culms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C09FCF.DF565E80 I wait they have patience with my poor English. I have built canes in = The first one is: with who can I contact stops to obtain culms of bamboo = the problem that I have is that I have to pay a shipment and very high =taxes for hit culms, spotted or in not well state. the Argentinean = as I can not choose what I buy to be very far, I wanted to contact me = C=E9sar ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C09FCF.DF565E80 with my poor English. I have built canes in Argentina for eight years. I = problem that I have is that I have to pay a shipment and very high taxes = culms, spotted or in not well state. the Argentinean customs also puts = C=E9sar ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C09FCF.DF565E80-- from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Feb 26 06:40:08 2001 f1QCe7e25234 Subject: Re: Hello there! Bob:I'm hoping those "tears in the eyes" came from Rick's verbage and not fromyour having found the "oars" and getting yourself slapped up side the headmy them. Now I'm LMAO too... 8>)Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Hello there! LMAO... Don't know what else to say, but what a way to wake up in themorning, to such words of wisdom from Mr. Rick! Sorry, hard to type with these tears in my eyes! Bob-----Original Message-----From: Rick Crenshaw Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 1:00 AMSubject: Re: Hello there! Mike, Indeed you should be humbled to be among us. Almost every man here isatopnotch engineer, a meticulous artisan, and of impeccable reputation.Our rods are, in general, flawless. We share a unique bond in that wehave suffered many tireless years learning this craft. (We have evenbeen known to go so far as to actually go fishing every now and then.)I have met many of the fine fellows on this list. The collectiveknowledge among us is absolutely astounding. You should find the timeto go to a rodmaker's gathering. There you can sit up all night andlisten to the profound and enlightening shards of wisdom this group willshare with the select few who have elected to join us. I hope you areprepared for this arduous journey. Perhaps one day, after a long anddifficult apprenticeship, you will actually begin to understand stresscharts. Keep in mind that very few people have the mental capacity andphysical dexterity to build bamboo fly rods. Don't become disgusted ifyou are not one of them. If you don't believe me, then go tohttp://www.curro.net/ and take a look at some of the rodmakingimpresarios at the Grayrock and Southern Rodmakers Gatherings. Rick C. P.S. Get some steel and start making your forms. Mike Janik wrote: My name is Mike Janik,... I fell in love with cane rods about a yearago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into building them ... so I aman absolute novice.... I am probably about 2 years away from actuallyhaving everything to start building so I hope that you'll all bepatient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions.... Thanks for the help! I amhumbled and honored to be in such great company!Mikemiangler@yahoo.com from HallowellMA@atgi.spear.navy.mil Mon Feb 26 06:50:06 2001 f1QCo5e25494 Subject: Unsubscribe from ttalsma@macatawa.org Mon Feb 26 06:51:01 2001 f1QCp0e25624 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart If it is a slow connection that you have, then you should turn off allimages. I still believe that done right, an animation can be pulled offthat is no larger than a static image. All images should be optomizedso that they don't take a long time to load. After all, the lateststatistics show that you only have a vistor's interest for about 20 to30 seconds anyway. I think that the "slow" connection would be anything below a 56kconnection. That's what I have at home and I haven't seen the need tostop seeing images. Most of the web sites being designed today areusing graphics as an integral part of the site. If you aren't seeingthe graphics (whether they be static or animated) you really aren'tgetting the full picture (no pun intended). Paul Goodwin wrote: If you have a slow connection animations are a real pain. they can be quitelarge and take forever to download. It got to the point that I started using a program that filters them out.The program allows me to selectively filter all advertisements, cookies,animations, backgroung music and pop-up windows and java applets andscripts. Make browsing much quicker and the companies that profile yourevery click don't learn a bit about me. Animations can be catchy but they can also annoy as well. Paul ----- Original Message -----From: "Todd Talsma" Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 7:51 PMSubject: Re: Rodmakers clipart I would beg to differ that an animation makes a site look lessprofessional. I feel that if done right, an animation actually enhancesa site and brings a visitor farther into a site. Yes, some animationsare tacky or detract from the site, but if you have something that isrelated to your field that is animated, why not use it. Also, if theyare done right, they don't need to be any larger than static files. I don't personally know about any fly fishing specific web art, butthere are definately a ton of sites that you could check. You just needto work the search engines to find what you want. Personally, I think work, not clip art anyway. Just my 2 cents. John Kenealy wrote: Shawn, I'm not sure where to get that stuff, but I have a bit of advice: Stay away from the animated stuff. It takes longer to download, takesattention away from the subject at hand and looks less professionalthan a straightforward site. I know my site isn't perfect, by any means, but I've had a site forabout 3+ years now and this is what I've learned along the way. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Date: Sunday, February 25, 2001 5:28 PMSubject: Rodmakers clipart Friends,I am slowly wading through building my web page onceagain and I have aquestion for those more experienced than I in these matters.I am looking for some pictures/clipart/annimated gifs formy page. I haveCoreldraw 9 which has some fishing clipart but not a lot related torod building. Isthere a anyone who can help me locate some cool stuff for my page?? ShawnP.S sorry for the bandwidth but I'm sure there are others herelooking so I figuredthe non related thing was a non issue. --Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy home page:http://member.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from cattanac@wmis.net Mon Feb 26 06:53:15 2001 f1QCrFe25872 Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike -I am about 100 miles away - but will be in Portage this afternoon - Wayne----- Original Message ----- Subject: Hello there! My name is Mike Janik, and on the advice of about 15people from the VFS rod building board I am now here. I fell in love with cane rods about a year ago andhave firmly decided that I want to get into buildingthem (since I can't afford to buy all of the ones Iwant) so I am an absolute novice. I am just nowbeginning to buy some tools and am saving up for a setof planing forms. I am probably about 2 years away from actually having everything to start building so Ihope that you'll all be patient with me as I fumbleabout here asking stupid questions. Here are a few ofthem: The first one takes guts, but I was wonderingif any rodmakers out there would be interested indonating some of their scrap bamboo so that I mightbegin practicing splitting, straightening, andrough-planing strips. I live in Kalamazoo, MI so ifthere is anyone within a 100 mile radius that isinterested in helping me, I could come and pick it up.Second, I want the first rod I build to be based on aDickerson steelhead/salmon taper, but after that Iwant to build myself a baitcasting rod for muskyfishing (my only non-fly fishing obsession... noreason I can't do it on a cane rod?!?) does anyoneknow of a taper for such a rod? Third, has anyone outthere built a bamboo two- handed spey casting rod? Iam interested in something that would cast an 8/9line. Thanks for the help! I am humbled and honoredto be in such great company! Mike miangler@yahoo.com =====http://miangler.homestead.com/home.html __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from dickay@alltel.net Mon Feb 26 07:12:44 2001 f1QDCie26271 srv.alltel.net Mon, 26 Feb 2001 07:12:44 -0600 Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike, Take up Wayne's offer and meet him this afternoon if you can. Wayneis the author of a very fine book on Bamboo Rod Making and lives inCasnovia, MI. northwest of Grand Rapids. Ron Barch the editor of the Planing Form Newsletter lives in Hastings, MI. There are a lot of rodmakers in your area. I'm originally from KZoo and now live Arkansas. As Rick says get to a gathering if you can. Greyrock is the weekend afterFather's Day weekend in Greyling, MI. Also do a search for Rodmakers and find the Rodmakers Homepage andcheck outthe list archives. Lots of great info there. Last of all don't take as gospel everything that you read here. Those whohave been here awhile are laughing through there tears at Rick C's post. Good Luck and maybe we'll meet sometime.Dick Fuhrman from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Feb 26 07:59:52 2001 f1QDxqe27066 Subject: Fw: A new virus Subject: A new virus Microsoft ( www.microsoft.comHREF="http://www.microsoft.com/">http://www.microsoft.com )and by McAfee (www.mcafee.comHREF="http://www.mcafee.com/">http://www.mcafee.com ) asthe most destructive ever! This virus was discovered yesterday afternoon by McAfee and no vaccine has yet been developed. This virus simply destroys Sector Zero from the hard disk, where vital information for its functioning are stored. This virus acts in the following manner: It sends itself automatically to all contacts on your list with the title "A Virtual Card for You". As soon as the supposed virtual card is opened, the computer freezes so that the user has to reboot. When the ctrl+alt+del keys or the reset button are pressed, the virus destroys Sector Zero, thus permanently destroying the hard disk.Yesterday in just a few hours this virus caused panic in New York,according to news broadcast by CNN ( HREF="http://www.cnn.com/">www.cnn.com http://www.cnn.com http://www.cnn.com > HREF="http://www.cnn.com/">http://www.cnn.com This alert was received by an employee of Microsoft itself. So don't open any mails with subject "A Virtual Card for You". As soon as you get the mail, delete it. Please pass on this mail to all your friends. Forward this to everyone in your address book. I would rather receive this 25 times than not at all.Also: Intel announced that a new and very destructive virus was discovered recently. If you receive an email called " An Internet Flower For You", do not open it. Delete it right away! This virus removes all dynamic link libraries (.dll files) from your computer. Your computer will not beable to boot up. ! ! SEND THIS TO EVERYONE ON YOUR CONTACT LIST!! from edriddle@mindspring.com Mon Feb 26 09:00:03 2001 f1QF03e29053 Subject: Fw: IT'S A HOAX, Folks! Fw: A new virus Sorry 'bout that. Thanks Todd.Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: IT'S A HOAX, Folks! Fw: A new virus http://vil.mcafee.com/dispVirus.asp?virus_k=98893& -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from rextutor@about.com Mon Feb 26 12:29:34 2001 f1QITXe08961 (NPlex 5.1.050) 2001 10:29:28 -0800 Subject: Gatherings Where do you find out about bamboo rod makers gathersings? Are there plans to have one this year in the west ? I live in Denver but would travel some.thanksRex Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Feb 26 14:01:22 2001 f1QK1Ge12918 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:01:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Gatherings Rex,You might want to keep an eye on The Planing Form. Ron Barch, theeditor, does a good job of keeping us bamboo nuts informed on what'scoming up. http://www.curro.net/SRG/index.html Harry Rex Tutor wrote: Where do you find out about bamboo rod makers gathersings? --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from Andrew_Harsanyi@ibi.com Mon Feb 26 14:08:23 2001 f1QK8Me13349 0500 Subject: Valley Forge Fly show This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A02F.986002F0 Does anyone know anything about the upcoming Valley Forge PA fly fishingshow? Is it worth going to? Is there typically (I assume it's an annualevent) a good bamboo turnout? Andy ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A02F.986002F0 Valley Forge Fly show Does anyone know anything about the upcoming Valley=Forge PA fly fishing show? Is it worth going to? Is there typically (I =assume it's an annual event) a good bamboo turnout? Andy ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A02F.986002F0-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Feb 26 14:24:49 2001 f1QKOme14259 2001 12:24:46 PST Subject: Re: Valley Forge Fly show andy, it's worth going to, if only for no otherreason, for just a little while if it will cause youto refrain from wandering around in the basement,mumbling to yourself, picking at bamboo splinters inyour hands and bumping your head like me. this is asymptom of the common affliction of which we haverecently spoken. timothy --- "Harsanyi, Andrew" wrote:Does anyone know anything about the upcoming ValleyForge PA fly fishingshow? Is it worth going to? Is there typically (Iassume it's an annualevent) a good bamboo turnout? Andy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Spico81@aol.com Mon Feb 26 16:25:57 2001 f1QMPue19860 Subject: splitting vs. cutting --part1_ca.1157c558.27cc31b8_boundary Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with a fineblade to cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there a reason not to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam --part1_ca.1157c558.27cc31b8_boundary Does anybody usesomething like a bandsaw or any other saw with a fine blade there a reason not to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam --part1_ca.1157c558.27cc31b8_boundary-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Feb 26 16:29:21 2001 f1QMTKe20086 Subject: Roughing Form I seem to recall that some of you guys do without the 87 degree roughingform. Is my memory correct? Is the first roughing form really necessary?Would appreciate any insight. from anglport@con2.com Mon Feb 26 16:32:44 2001 f1QMWhe20351 Subject: Re: Gatherings I think you'll also find info about next year's Catskill Gathering on thissite of last year's. http://www.canerod.com/Gatherings/Catskill/Catskill2000.html Art At 01:59 PM 02/26/2001 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote:Rex,You might want to keep an eye on The Planing Form. Ron Barch, theeditor, does a good job of keeping us bamboo nuts informed on what'scoming up. http://www.curro.net/SRG/index.html Harry Rex Tutor wrote: Where do you find out about bamboo rod makers gathersings? --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from rextutor@about.com Mon Feb 26 16:41:42 2001 f1QMffe21113 (NPlex 5.1.050) Subject: Colorado Gatherings I don't know if there is enough interest . I know of a couple of pros but not well enough to ask them. Mike Clark in Lyons and theres a fellow in Littleton who has a pro shop and does lots of restoration and sells components. I just don't know of any clubs or organizations or enough people to attend. I would be interested in a beginners class and I can't even find that here in Denver. You ? Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from zimmer@adams.net Mon Feb 26 16:54:54 2001 f1QMsre21732 Subject: Steve Wilks E-mail address Just wondering if anyone knows the current e-mail of Steve Wilks? He islisted on the Rodmakers Tools Page as "Pentools". The address in rodmakerscomes back as "no known"-undeliverable...thanks RANDY ZIMMERMANzimmer@adams.netZIMMERMAN BROS., INC. SINCE 1915www.zimmermanbros.com from HomeyDKlown@att.net Mon Feb 26 17:12:03 2001 f1QNBve22398 ;Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:11:54 +0000 "'RODMAKERS@WUGATE.WUSTL.EDU'" Subject: RE: Roughing Form James, I made a roughing form with those funky angles when I started but don't useit anymore. I might get flamed for this, but I use my final forms forroughing, first angle and all. I just set the butt side extra large so Idon't overshrink the strips when heat treating. Disclaimer: This advice is worth what you paid for it! Just kidding. It'sprobably worth even less! Butt seriously, that method has worked forme Dennis -----Original Message----- Subject: Roughing Form I seem to recall that some of you guys do without the 87 degree roughingform. Is my memory correct? Is the first roughing form really necessary?Would appreciate any insight. from jteft@frontiernet.net Mon Feb 26 17:24:17 2001 f1QNOGe22840 claiming to be "jteft" 2001 Subject: Handle Smell This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0A018.93B2C600 Need some help. Opened one of my rod tubes to check out the rod (plastic =type) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to be coming from =the cork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last time I = Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have scubed with tooth =brush ,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just used =a mixture of baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of =the tube for the enxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0A018.93B2C600 Need some help. Opened one of my rod tubes tocheck = rod (plastic type) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to be = from the cork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last = used it. Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have= tooth brush ,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just = mixture of baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the = the enxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01C0A018.93B2C600-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon Feb 26 17:27:23 2001 f1QNRMe23090 rodmakers Subject: RE: Handle Smell This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A04B.F5604AB6 This happened to the graph**e rod I use most frequently. Handle smelled ofstale sweat, same smell I used to get from my running shoes. I scrubbedwith Soft Scrub, and allowed it to dry thoroughly in the sun and it wentaway. -----Original Message----- Subject: Handle Smell Need some help. Opened one of my rod tubes to check out the rod (plastictype) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to be coming from thecork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last time I used it. Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have scubed with tooth brush,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just used a mixtureof baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the tube for theenxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A04B.F5604AB6 This scrubbed with Soft Scrub, and allowed it to dry thoroughly in the sun and it went away. -----Original Message-----From: Jim Tefft 2001 3:22 SmellNeed some help. Opened one of my rod tubes to checkout the rod (plastic type) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to becoming from the cork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last time I used it. Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Havescubed with tooth brush ,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Havejust used a mixture of baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the tube for the enxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.JimT ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A04B.F5604AB6-- from jvswan@earthlink.net Mon Feb 26 17:42:02 2001 f1QNg1e23680 User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022Subject: Re: Handle Smell This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3066050518_11838863_MIME_Part Jim, et al: I have used cleaners that contain live enzymes that break down all sorts oforganic compounds (usually the source of the smell) such as sweat, blood,pet pee, etc. This may do the trick since it is non-corrosive and won'tdamage the cork. You can find the stuff at commercial cleaning places forabout $12 a bottle. It is usually concentrated, so one bottle may make acouple of gallons of the stuff. Jason Subject: Handle Smell Need some help. Opened one of my rod tubes to check out the rod (plastictype) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to be coming from thecork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last time I used it.Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have scubed with tooth brush,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just used a mixtureof baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the tube for theenxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T --MS_Mac_OE_3066050518_11838863_MIME_Part Re: Handle Smell Jim, et al: I have used cleaners that contain live enzymes that break down all sorts of=organic compounds (usually the source of the smell) such as sweat, blood,p= places= make a couple of gallons of the stuff. Jason Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:21:38 -0500 Subject: Handle Smell Need some help. Opened one of my rodtubes to ch=eck out the rod (plastic type) and was knocked over by a smell whichappears=to be coming from the cork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:=-( last time I used it. Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have scubed with tooth brush,=baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just used a mixture o=f baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the tube for the =enxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T --MS_Mac_OE_3066050518_11838863_MIME_Part-- from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Feb 26 17:54:12 2001 f1QNsBe24110 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Valley Forge Fly show Hi Andy , AKA "Bait Fisherman" The show at Valley Forge is Identical tothe Somerset Show. Same exact promoter. I am going as it's the only gamein town. Marty Does anyone know anything about the upcoming Valley Forge PA flyfishing show? Is it worth going to? Is there typically (I assume it'san annual event) a good bamboo turnout? Andy from jojo@ipa.net Mon Feb 26 18:00:24 2001 f1R00Ne24496 Subject: Re: Hello there! Mike, We are indeed pleased to have you humbly in our company, and we are evenmore pleased that you are honored by being in our presence.Welcome aboard. M-D My name is Mike Janik, I am humbled and honoredto be in such great company! from horsesho@ptd.net Mon Feb 26 18:02:44 2001 f1R02ce24717 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: Roughing Form marty wrote: When I first started I used a steel V type planing block(unadjustable).The type as seen in McLanes standard fishingencyclopedia. With this unit I did not need a roughing form. I did itall with a mike and the V-block. It took forever! IF I remember rightwhat I did was wittle a rough angle with a knife and drop it in a slot.It is much easier to make a wood roughing form or get one from GoldenWitch. BTW , I still use that V-block for roughing prior to heattreating. Marty I seem to recall that some of you guys do without the 87 degree roughingform. Is my memory correct? Is the first roughing form reallynecessary?Would appreciate any insight. from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Mon Feb 26 18:17:21 2001 f1R0HKe25364 Subject: Beveler f1R0HLe25365 I've seen some drawings and pictures of the Medved style beveler.To anyone who is familiar with them: Is there any reason why one couldn't setup a router table the same way- the difference being that the router bitwould be on a vertical plane as opposed to the horizontal plane and thebeveling bed would be turned on its side instead of cradling the strip? The reason I ask is twofold: 1. I have a router/shaper table with the machine built in and I have enoughstuff to buy/make/aquire as it is.2. I've already had 2 operations on my wrist for torn cartilage and I'm looking planing. Thanks in advance. John K. from ddeloach@pcisys.net Mon Feb 26 18:43:22 2001 f1R0hMe26230 env- from (ddeloach@pcisys.net) Subject: Royer Cane Has anyone made a rod out of Andy Royers first batch of cane (mid- 97).Justcurious since I bought some back then and haven't made a rod from it yet. Itlooks good though some culms have shallow PF but at least none havegrowersmarks. ThxDon from sats@gte.net Mon Feb 26 19:05:38 2001 f1R15be27042 Subject: Boat rod Blanks I know where there are about 50 boat rod blanks. Appear never to have beenused. The tip section would make a good butt section for a 3p. If any one'sinterested I'll try to get some more info. Price would be cheep. I think theywant to get rid of them. Probably around $10~$20. ----------------------------Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Florida(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netMeet me at http://home1.gte.net/sats from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Mon Feb 26 19:25:26 2001 f1R1PQe27584 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 20:28:51 -0500 Subject: RE: Montaque market prices: Dear Terry, Thanks for the info, I watch a Montaque Sunbeam auction on Ebay and close Flash, the rod looked to be a Sunbeam in untouched condition. Hard to getsolid market prices. I would be interest in the publication that you mentionif you could e-mail me a place to subscribe it would be very muchappreciated. Take care, Tim. Upstream Always, Tim DoughtyRodmaker http://www.upstreamcustomrods.com/ -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Montaque market prices: I am hoping some one on the list can point me to new market prices onmontaques, as I have several in shop needing pricing. Thanks for taking thetime, Tim.The latest "Classic Chronicle" came in the mail today. Montague's were from$70to $275. They seem to center around $100 to $175, ----------------------------Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Florida(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netMeet me at http://home1.gte.net/sats from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Feb 26 20:09:24 2001 f1R29Oe28587 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Beveler Carl O'Connor has designed such a beveler and has displayed it at severalGatherings. I think that there are drawings in one of the last two yearsPlaning Form ----------From: John Kenealy Subject: BevelerDate: Monday, February 26, 2001 7:18 PM I've seen some drawings and pictures of the Medved style beveler.To anyone who is familiar with them: Is there any reason why one couldn'tset up a router table the same way- the difference being that the routerbit would be on a vertical plane as opposed to the horizontal plane and thebeveling bed would be turned on its side instead of cradling the strip? The reason I ask is twofold: 1. I have a router/shaper table with the machine built in and I haveenough stuff to buy/make/aquire as it is.2. I've already had 2 operations on my wrist for torn cartilage and I'mlooking for a way to do the rough stuff by machine to save my wrist for thefinal planing. Thanks in advance. John K. from BigJohn47@aol.com Mon Feb 26 20:11:25 2001 f1R2BPe28798 Subject: wrapping thread --part1_3b.10f8b991.27cc66ba_boundary just interested to know what type and size of thread everyone prefers,anddo you use one size for guides and one size for ferrules.tia john --part1_3b.10f8b991.27cc66ba_boundary just interested to knowwhat type and size of thread everyone prefers,and do you use one size for guides and one size for ferrules. --part1_3b.10f8b991.27cc66ba_boundary-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Feb 26 20:40:58 2001 f1R2eue29734 Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting Being someone who loves his bandsaw until I tried using it to rip strips Ithought all this hand splitting was madness until I tried. I am now a fan ofhand splitting.The problem with bandsawing bamboo strips is you need to saw them so widedueto all the wondering that happens during the cuting. There seems to be nopractical way of using a fence to control all the wondering that happensduringthe sawing without making very wide strips. I don't ordinarily get too workedup when things go wrong in my workshop I take it calmly when a router bithitsa hidden nail for eg but the air was blue the day I tried bandsawing strips.I know there are people doing this with success but it's not worth the workupdeveloping when there is a simpler way.Take a look at the archives and find Peter McKean's very good description ofsplitting bamboo using the Bob Nunley method. You'll have half the culm splitusing this method before you get the fence setup and bandsaw running. Tony At 05:24 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with a fineblade to cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there areason not to do this? Just curious. Thanks, Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Mon Feb 26 20:56:54 2001 f1R2ure00218 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:53:34 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: RE: splitting vs. cutting Listen to Tony on this one. I wasn't with him when he tried bandsawingstrips but I saw the dust plume from my place.....and I live fifteen milesaway! Mike from Troutgetter@aol.com Mon Feb 26 21:09:43 2001 f1R39ce00720 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart --part1_d3.11077064.27cc7461_boundary Paul, ToddI like the moving pictures. I like shiny things too!Mike --part1_d3.11077064.27cc7461_boundary Paul, ToddI like the moving pictures. I like shiny things too!Mike --part1_d3.11077064.27cc7461_boundary-- from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Mon Feb 26 21:13:48 2001 f1R3Dle00929 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:13:37 -0800 Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting Just the other day a guy in a fly shop told me that Orvis saws their culms.Don't know if that is true or not? Ray Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with a finebladeto cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there areasonnot to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Mon Feb 26 21:14:09 2001 f1R3E8e01005 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 22:13:25 -0500 Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting Hi Sam and Tony:I agree with Tony on avoiding sawing strips. It is not only because of run out on the strips or waste, it is for me a matter of safety and speed. Cane and saw blades are not two things I like to mix. You could easily send the bamboo flying if you mess up. It could get ugly.Spilt by hand.I use a combination of methods. I have two vices on different tables. After splitting the whole culm into 2, I figure out how I want to finish it off. Making quads, you really need less strips, but they need to be wide enough to make up the whole depth of the rod. Generally .350 or .4 might be needed on a bigger 5 or 6 weight. Anyway, I mark of the splits with a pencil on the end. I start the spilt with a froe and mallet at the butt end. I take the culm to the first vice which holds a thin knife, and I push the split past the first node. On bigger sections (or the first few splits) I can easily control the split all the way down. When the splits get smaller I repeat the same process, except that after getting through the first node, I move over to the other vice. I clamp the tip (far) section into the vice tightly (but not enough to crack or split the strip. It happens if you clamp down too hard). Then I take each side of the split and pull evenly with both hands away from the split/center. If the split strays, I return the strips to the center. I then pull on the thicker side only, until the split returns on target, and then I use even pulling to finish the strip. It works just fine. I don't know how this compares to what Bob Nunley does, but I think it may be almost the same. Bob may very well have told me about this a while back. (He is doing an article for the next Power Fibers on his technique, and I cannot wait to see the first draft.)Give it a shot.BobBob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.comhttp://www.downandacross.com218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from Lafaryjim@aol.com Mon Feb 26 21:16:48 2001 f1R3Gge01238 Subject: size of file to use? --part1_3e.7fa1b38.27cc75fc_boundary I'm in the process of making a planing form using Penrose's information. Can you tell me what size of a triangular file to use to file the 60 degree angle. thanks. --part1_3e.7fa1b38.27cc75fc_boundary I'm in the process ofmaking a planing form using Penrose's information. Can you tell me what size of a triangular file to use to file the 60degree angle. thanks. --part1_3e.7fa1b38.27cc75fc_boundary-- from channer1@rmi.net Mon Feb 26 21:25:52 2001 f1R3Poe01588 Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting Tony;I don't have a bandsaw and have never used one for cutting bamboo, but I amacarpenter by trade and have used a bandsaw on the job many times. It seemsto methat to cut even width strips on a bandsaw that you should use a pin for afenceinstead of the standard fence, this will aloow the body of the cane to turn asitwill, but keep the cut strip the proper width. Try cutting a point on a boardandclamp the board to the table with the point aiming at the side of the bladeandthe distance from the point to the blade the width of strip you want. I wouldalso think that some kind of support for the curved side of the culm to be inorder. Just a thought.John Tony Young wrote: Being someone who loves his bandsaw until I tried using it to rip strips Ithought all this hand splitting was madness until I tried. I am now a fan ofhand splitting.The problem with bandsawing bamboo strips is you need to saw them sowide dueto all the wondering that happens during the cuting. There seems to be nopractical way of using a fence to control all the wondering that happensduringthe sawing without making very wide strips. I don't ordinarily get tooworkedup when things go wrong in my workshop I take it calmly when a router bithitsa hidden nail for eg but the air was blue the day I tried bandsawing strips.I know there are people doing this with success but it's not worth the workupdeveloping when there is a simpler way.Take a look at the archives and find Peter McKean's very good descriptionofsplitting bamboo using the Bob Nunley method. You'll have half the culmsplitusing this method before you get the fence setup and bandsaw running. Tony At 05:24 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with a finebladeto cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there areason not to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Mon Feb 26 21:26:40 2001 f1R3Qde01678 Subject: NW Rodmakers Hello All Are there any list members in the Northwest US? Any Rodmakers gatheringsinthe NW? Ray from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Feb 26 21:53:09 2001 f1R3r9e02683 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Beveler Hi John,There is no reason why the router bit can't be vertical and the form up onedge. My friend and fishing partner and fellow rod builder Jack Byrd hasdone just exactly that and we've run strips thru his machine quite nicely.Jack does not have email but if you wish to phone him his number is425-774-0270. Jack co-chaired two of the Corbett Lake bamboo rodbuildersworkshops with me.Ray Gould----- Original Message ----- Subject: Beveler I've seen some drawings and pictures of the Medved style beveler.To anyone who is familiar with them: Is there any reason why one couldn'tset up a router table the same way- the difference being that the router bitwould be on a vertical plane as opposed to the horizontal plane and thebeveling bed would be turned on its side instead of cradling the strip? The reason I ask is twofold: 1. I have a router/shaper table with the machine built in and I haveenough stuff to buy/make/aquire as it is.2. I've already had 2 operations on my wrist for torn cartilage and I'mlooking for a way to do the rough stuff by machine to save my wrist for thefinal planing. Thanks in advance. John K. from caneman@clnk.com Mon Feb 26 21:53:23 2001 f1R3rMe02718 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: wrapping thread This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01C0A03E.3AB91B00 Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob -----Original Message-----From: BigJohn47@aol.com Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 PMSubject: wrapping thread just interested to know what type and size of thread everyone = tia = ------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01C0A03E.3AB91B00 Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob -----Original = BigJohn47@aol.com = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 PMSubject: interested to know what type and size of thread everyone prefers,and = = john ------=_NextPart_000_01F9_01C0A03E.3AB91B00-- from rsgould@cmc.net Mon Feb 26 21:57:01 2001 f1R3v0e02978 Subject: Re: Gatherings Hi Rex,There is to be a gathering in the west at Troutdale Oregon in May this year. Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Gatherings Where do you find out about bamboo rod makers gathersings?Are there plans to have one this year in the west ? I live in Denverbut would travel some.thanksRex Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from petermckean@netspace.net.au Mon Feb 26 22:09:54 2001 f1R49re03634 f1R49l039379; Subject: Re: Royer Cane Don Yes, I did. I remember Tony telling me that it was a culm from Andy Royer;and I looked at it for a long time before deciding to use it, as the powerfibre depth appeared so very thin, and seemed to cut off so abruptly. I am a pretty green rodmaker, and it takes me a lomg time to plane up a rod,and I really didn't think much of putting in all that time and findingmyself with a bum rod at the end. I made a rod that was not a big gutbuster, a Sir D in fact, out of deferenceto the PF, and it is just fine! So I made another, stretched out 6" longer,butt- swelled and beefed up, and that is fine as well (well, in fact it is abugger of a rod, but that is due to my footling around with the taper, andin no way to the cane quality). The cane is good. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Royer Cane Has anyone made a rod out of Andy Royers first batch of cane (mid- 97).Justcurious since I bought some back then and haven't made a rod from it yet.Itlooks good though some culms have shallow PF but at least none havegrowersmarks. ThxDon from dnorl@qwest.net Mon Feb 26 22:13:02 2001 f1R4D1e03876 (63.228.47.99) " " Subject: Re: wrapping thread This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C0A040.A93D6CA0 Right on Bob,Dave-----Original Message-----From: Bob Nunley rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 9:54 PMSubject: Re: wrapping thread Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob -----Original Message-----From: BigJohn47@aol.com Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 PMSubject: wrapping thread just interested to know what type and size of thread everyone = = ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C0A040.A93D6CA0 Right on Bob,Dave -----Original = <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Monday, February 26, 2001 9:54 PMSubject: Re: = threadPearsalls Gossamer foreverything. Bob Message-----From: BigJohn47@aol.com rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Monday, February 26, 2001 8:12 PMSubject: = interested to know what type and size of thread everyone = = john ------=_NextPart_000_007E_01C0A040.A93D6CA0-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Feb 26 22:28:01 2001 f1R4S0e04501 Subject: Re: wrapping thread Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the PearsallsGossamer for guides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from channer@frontier.net Mon Feb 26 22:37:02 2001 f1R4b1e04888 Subject: Re: wrapping thread Harry and Bob;How in blazes do you keep from breaking the darn stuff every 3rd or 4thturn??? I tried gossamer for trim wraps on one rod and used up the wholespool just to get that one rod done.John Harry Boyd wrote: Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the PearsallsGossamer for guides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from Spico81@aol.com Mon Feb 26 22:38:25 2001 f1R4cKe05084 Subject: thanks everyone --part1_c.11c6377d.27cc892a_boundary I just tried Nunley's splitting method on some scrap pieces and it works great. Its fast, its efficient, and I never have to worry about cutting my fingers off with a saw. Thanks,Sam --part1_c.11c6377d.27cc892a_boundary I just tried Nunley'ssplitting method on some scrap pieces and it works cutting my Thanks,Sam --part1_c.11c6377d.27cc892a_boundary-- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Mon Feb 26 22:58:17 2001 f1R4wGe05793 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 20:58:14 -0800 Subject: Re: wrapping thread John,You might try using less tension on the thread. ;-) I use an oldHerter's spool tensioning device, and a good magnifying lamp. The trick forme is being able to see the tiny little stuff. Harry channer wrote: Harry and Bob;How in blazes do you keep from breaking the darn stuff every 3rd or 4thturn??? I tried gossamer for trim wraps on one rod and used up the wholespool just to get that one rod done.John Harry Boyd wrote: Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the PearsallsGossamer for guides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from jkcerise@rof.net Mon Feb 26 23:07:34 2001 f1R57Xe06191 Subject: Re: Fw: A new virus At 09:01 AM 02/26/01 -0500, you wrote: Subject: A new virus from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon Feb 26 23:20:47 2001 f1R5Kle06621 2001 21:20:41 PST Subject: rods and reels for sale? all, someone listed a website in the last week thathad a lot of rods and reels for sale and i deleted it.the gentleman was in florida. would someone help meout? timothy ====="Gooda' morning mister bear" __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from miangler@yahoo.com Mon Feb 26 23:27:12 2001 f1R5RBe06918 2001 21:27:13 PST Subject: Thanks! I just wanted to say thanks for the volume response tomy post. Wayne, I am sorry I missed you! The onlytime I get to check my email is at night! I work along-hour job and have a 7 month old boy that keeps mereally busy. I hope that we can perhaps meet in thenear future. I do get up to the Muskegon often andpass right through Casnovia. If anyone can point mein the direction of someone who can help me makeplaning forms and a binder I'd appreciate it. Moneyis really short right now...trying to figure out how Iam going to come up with this years fishing liscensebefore next week... I am pretty rich though when itcomes to the desire to get into this. Thanks all, Mike =====http://miangler.homestead.com/home.html __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Mon Feb 26 23:54:55 2001 f1R5sre07696 Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 27 Feb 2001 13:53:06 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Thanks! Hi Mike,Thomas Penrose (among others) has really good instructions forbuilding your own planing forms. If you want to save some time and moneyyou can make them out of hardwood. Mine took about a day to make and thecost was about US$15-00. I do plan on making some steel or brass formswhentime permits (I've got the "make-your-own-silk-flyline-bug" at the moment)but the wooden version has produced a few very acceptable rods.Don't think you have to mortgage the house to build your firstrod. Get just enough stuff to do the job and decide later what else you'd"like" to have. Here's what I started out with four years ago and, to bequite honest, I haven't added much to it:Wooden planing formsWooden roughing formsRecord block planeDipping tubeI bind by hand at the moment; building nodeless means I don'tneed a specially built heat treating oven; Tony Young (another list member)supplies very reasonably priced ferrules; and all the guides, silk, handlesetc. are available from REC or Anglers Workshop. Welcome aboard and bestofluckMike from flyfish@defnet.com Tue Feb 27 00:12:53 2001 f1R6Cre08500 Subject: Catskill gathering This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C09FF5.61038B40 Last fall I took a trip to Vermont and on my way backmy wife and I stopped in to the catskill museum. Later that dayI was told by the waitress at that little Italian place acrossthe street from the Beaverkill angler that there was a rodmakers =gathering at the museum and I should stay till next weekend. =Unfortunately I could not. I was bummed to say the least. I wasn't on =the list at that time and had no knowledge of it ,or I would have =postponed my trip by a week. But the fishing that weekend(I was there) =before the gathering was beautiful weather and the fishing on the =willowemoc was fabulous, right in the stretch in front of the museum and =upstream in the faster water too. My question is while you were there , =did (any who attended) do any fishing and was the weather good? funny =how things work I fished the beaverkill and did not do well at all but =the willowemoc wasfantastic. Sorry this is not a rodmaking subject ,but I just got to know =\.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C09FF5.61038B40 Last fall I took a trip to Vermont and = backmy wife and I stopped in to the = Later that dayI was told by the waitress at that = place across there was a rodmakers gathering at the museum and I should stay till = wasn't on the list at that time and had no knowledge of it ,or I would = willowemoc was fabulous, right in the stretch in front of the museum and = upstream in the faster water too. My question is while you were there , = work I fished the beaverkill and did not do well at all but the = wasfantastic. Sorry this is not a = ,but I just got to know .Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C09FF5.61038B40-- from caneman@clnk.com Tue Feb 27 00:45:01 2001 f1R6j0e09594 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: wrapping thread John... Valium... it'll do the trick every time... have a bottle of 300 each10 mg's in my cabinet, right next to my wrap varnish! :^)Seriously, I have never had any problem, but I use very little tensionwhen wrapping it. Just enough to hold it in place. I do occasionally breaka 3 wide tipping wrap, but not too often. I guess it's just a matter ofgetting used to it.Plain truth... my eyes are going the way of my knees and I am seriouslyconsidering going to naples, which if I understand correctly, is justslightly smaller than 3/0 Kanakame or YLI. Just a matter of I can see itbetter, and the Gossamer is so thin that sometimes you won't see a gap in ituntil you put a sealer coat on it (or at least I won't), so in comes theNaples, as soon as I use up about 20 spools of the Gossamer I have. Later,Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: wrapping thread Harry and Bob;How in blazes do you keep from breaking the darn stuff every 3rd or 4thturn??? I tried gossamer for trim wraps on one rod and used up the wholespool just to get that one rod done.John Harry Boyd wrote: Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the PearsallsGossamer for guides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from mikejj@qwest.net Tue Feb 27 00:50:28 2001 f1R6oRe10286 (209.181.84.215) Subject: Member sections In what member section would I post a question for cane rod from caneman@clnk.com Tue Feb 27 00:54:48 2001 f1R6sle10467 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: wrapping thread Harry,In a way I see your thinking that the ferrule wraps reinforce the areaaround the ferrule station, or at least that it moves some of the stressesaround on the rod, but on the other hand, silk, per diameter, is muchstronger than steel... steel is stronger than nickel, so how strong do weneed to be to reinforce something with something whose shear strength isstonger than the reinforced material? Whew... did that come out right?Personally, I consider the ferrule wraps to be much akin to tipping andare nothing more that to hold the tabs down against the rod and fordecoration. I don't think (I've been wrong before, however) that theferrule wraps provide any strength to the ferrule station or the area aboveor below it. If the sections are properly heat treated, properly planed,properly glued, and properly fitted to the RIGHT ferrule for the diameter ofthe rod, then strength at, above or below the ferrule station should not bean issue, and in my experience has never been an issue. Wraps serve threefuntions... 1. hold the guide feet down, 2. hold the ferrule tabs down, 3.make the rod pretty. Wraps whose purpose was to help hold a rod togetherwent out with the use of Hide Glue in the Pinky Gillum days. (speaking hereof the intermediate wraps common on 19th century and early 20th centuryrodsthat were glued up with hide glues, and similar glues that are very inferiorto even the worst rod glue we use today)Just as an example... Many of you have seen and cast my Brookie, the 6'4wt... it's wrapped from end to end with Gossamer, the guide wraps are 8turns longer than the feet and the ferrule wraps are 8 turns longer thanwhat it takes to cover the tabs. The 8 turn thing is just a number I pickedout of the air, so all of my rods will be wrapped as close to exactly thesame... Point is, I use as little silk as possible... to me, a greatclassic car isn't one that has so much chrome on it that you can't see thesheet metal, and the same holds true, in my eyes, for a fine cane rod...Silk is the chrome of rodmaking, and I don't like to use anymore than isnecessary.Back to my point... The rod I wrote about above, the 6' 4wt, is NOT adelicate little dry fly rod, it is a semi-para that is well capable ofcasting in excess of 80 feet of line on dry land and in the casting poolsand has consistently thrown heavy nymphs and even the occasional woolybooger (hate those things, but when you're having a bad day, you gotta dowhat you gotta do!) on the water in excess of 60 feet (about my limit onthe water, after all, the rod is only 6' long!), and one that has landedbows and browns ranging from 10" to 26"... and I don't baby in a fish... Ilike to get them in quick and release them quick (better chance of survival aren't failin' on this puppy!I just started using Gossamer a year and a half ago... maybe 2 yearsnow, not sure... in any case, somewhere between 40 and 60 rods have beenwrapped with it just like I described above with only one failure... Andyes, it was at the ferrule, and the guy had 96 feet of DT 4 line out withthe rod, was slightly "under the influence" and was double hauling like amadman trying to hit a fire hydrant we measured at 110 feet away, when ithappened... The way he was bending that rod, I could have had the ferrulestations wrapped in titanium wire and it would have broken! I certainlydon't believe that a heavier silk wrap would have saved that poor littlerod. The caster doomed the rod when he stared double hauling over 90 feetof line in the air. Mike Shaffer, aka Doc, of the listserv was there (wewere all a bit under the influence)... ask him... this guy could make a flyline sing.... but made the rod sing it's last note, at least for awhile...it is now Billie's 5'11 1/2" 4wt... and holding up great! Later,Bob----Original Message----- Subject: Re: wrapping thread Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the Pearsalls>Gossamer forguides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Tue Feb 27 01:35:51 2001 f1R7Zoe12817 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:35:47 -0800 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 07:35:46 GMT Subject: Re: NW Rodmakers FILETIME=[E65DFA60:01C0A08F] I'm in Eugene Or and so is Chris McDowell, Bellinger and Whitehead are in Salem OR. A gathering is in Troutdale Or another in BC Canada. I think they alternate years. This is the troutdale year and it is coming up this spring. I don't go to those things much, maybe some of the NW's who are a little more social can give you more specifics.A.J.Thramer From: "Ray Wallace" Subject: NW RodmakersDate: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 19:29:57 -0800 Hello All Are there any list members in the Northwest US? Any Rodmakersgatherings inthe NW? Ray _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from ajthramer@hotmail.com Tue Feb 27 01:39:24 2001 f1R7dOe12995 Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:39:20 -0800 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 07:39:20 GMT Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting FILETIME=[65A8F400:01C0A090] When I tried it I used a post type of fence and it worked fine, the same kind of fence you would use for resawing. However splitting is alot faster after you learn to do it, it wastes less cane and you get a better rod also. Just one more thing that simply has to be learned to be a rodbuilder.A.J.Thramer From: channer CC: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: splitting vs. cuttingDate: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 20:22:29 -0700 Tony;I don't have a bandsaw and have never used one for cutting bamboo, but Iam acarpenter by trade and have used a bandsaw on the job many times. Itseems to methat to cut even width strips on a bandsaw that you should use a pin for a fenceinstead of the standard fence, this will aloow the body of the cane to turn as itwill, but keep the cut strip the proper width. Try cutting a point on a board andclamp the board to the table with the point aiming at the side of the blade andthe distance from the point to the blade the width of strip you want. I wouldalso think that some kind of support for the curved side of the culm to be inorder. Just a thought.John Tony Young wrote: Being someone who loves his bandsaw until I tried using it to rip strips Ithought all this hand splitting was madness until I tried. I am now a fan ofhand splitting.The problem with bandsawing bamboo strips is you need to saw them so wide dueto all the wondering that happens during the cuting. There seems to be nopractical way of using a fence to control all the wondering that happensduringthe sawing without making very wide strips. I don't ordinarily get too workedup when things go wrong in my workshop I take it calmly when a router bit hitsa hidden nail for eg but the air was blue the day I tried bandsawing strips.I know there are people doing this with success but it's not worth the work updeveloping when there is a simpler way.Take a look at the archives and find Peter McKean's very good description ofsplitting bamboo using the Bob Nunley method. You'll have half the culm splitusing this method before you get the fence setup and bandsaw running. Tony At 05:24 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with afinebladeto cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there areason not to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Tue Feb 27 04:09:36 2001 f1RA9Ze14850 Subject: Beveler This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C0A07B.A1D84260 Thanks Tod and Ray for the info on the beveler. I was prety sure that Icould rig something up. John K. ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C0A07B.A1D84260 Thanks Tod and Ray for the infoon = up. JohnK. ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C0A07B.A1D84260-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue Feb 27 04:29:57 2001 f1RATue15148 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 06:29:16 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: wrapping thread Shame on you Bob,A Harley man like yourself talking about using chromesparingly! .....Sorry I couldn't help myself >;^)~Shawn Bob Nunley wrote: . to me, a greatclassic car isn't one that has so much chrome on it that you can't see thesheet metal, and the same holds true, in my eyes, for a fine cane rod...Silk is the chrome of rodmaking, and I don't like to use anymore than isnecessary. from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Feb 27 04:53:49 2001 f1RArme15543 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: wrapping thread Pursell's Naples for guides/ferrules and Gossomar fortipping/intermediates. I still use size A or OO for restorations onproduction rods. Marty just interested to know what type and size of thread everyoneprefers,and doyou use one size for guides and one size for ferrules.tiajohn from ttalsma@macatawa.org Tue Feb 27 06:38:35 2001 f1RCcZe16644 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart Oh, Oh. Looks like we have a spin fisherman on our hands! Troutgetter@aol.com wrote: Paul, ToddI like the moving pictures. I like shiny things too!Mike -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue Feb 27 07:04:56 2001 f1RD4ue17077 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 06:58:43 -0600 Subject: Re: wrapping thread You make great sense here Bob, with one exception that has some merit.Thisis the tab area of each ferrule serving as a transfer for loads. Because ofthese tabs flexing with the rod, a sharp hinge point at a hard edge isavoided, and the load(s) are transferred more smoothly.GMA from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Feb 27 07:16:28 2001 f1RDGQe17440 Subject: Re: splitting vs. cutting John,bandsawing can be done with sucess. I know Todd Young (PHY) bandsawsbecause I saw his setup which works well for him I just think it's mucheasier, faster and less emotionaly disturbing to split. The big problem from my point of view is the strips need to be sawn two wide and bandsawingalso takes too long to do comparatively speaking. It isn't just waste ofbamboo but it takes too long to plane to a workable size. If you're machinemilling it wouldn't be an issue. Anybody who hasn't tried the Bob'sMaulucci and Nunley method should try it at least once before setting upbandsaws and other Heath Robertson type devices. If you try it I thinkyou'd agree messing about with machinery for splitting just isn't worth thetrouble by comparison. Tony At 08:22 PM 2/26/01 -0700, channer wrote:Tony;I don't have a bandsaw and have never used one for cutting bamboo, but Iam acarpenter by trade and have used a bandsaw on the job many times. Itseemsto methat to cut even width strips on a bandsaw that you should use a pin for afenceinstead of the standard fence, this will aloow the body of the cane toturn as itwill, but keep the cut strip the proper width. Try cutting a point on aboard andclamp the board to the table with the point aiming at the side of theblade andthe distance from the point to the blade the width of strip you want. Iwouldalso think that some kind of support for the curved side of the culm to beinorder. Just a thought.John Tony Young wrote: Being someone who loves his bandsaw until I tried using it to rip strips Ithought all this hand splitting was madness until I tried. I am now afan ofhand splitting.The problem with bandsawing bamboo strips is you need to saw them sowide dueto all the wondering that happens during the cuting. There seems to be nopractical way of using a fence to control all the wondering that happensduringthe sawing without making very wide strips. I don't ordinarily get tooworkedup when things go wrong in my workshop I take it calmly when a routerbit hitsa hidden nail for eg but the air was blue the day I tried bandsawingstrips.I know there are people doing this with success but it's not worth thework updeveloping when there is a simpler way.Take a look at the archives and find Peter McKean's very gooddescription ofsplitting bamboo using the Bob Nunley method. You'll have half the culmsplitusing this method before you get the fence setup and bandsaw running. Tony At 05:24 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: Does anybody use something like a bandsaw or any other saw with a finebladeto cut their culms in sections rather than splitting them? Is there areason not to do this? Just curious.Thanks,Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from dnorl@qwest.net Tue Feb 27 07:23:25 2001 f1RDNOe17684 (63.228.44.65) Subject: Re: wrapping thread Bob's Comments are right on plus here are my thoughts -------I would liketo have the wraps be perfectly flat on the rod with no bump whatsoeverwherethe thread is. This of course is not possible so instead I like to use thethinnest thread I can get. in order to have the least amount of build at thewraps. No question it is picky work using it. It makes A thread look likekite string. For my rods I think it's worth the extra effort.Dave----- Original Message----- Subject: Re: wrapping thread Harry,In a way I see your thinking that the ferrule wraps reinforce the areaaround the ferrule station, or at least that it moves some of the stressesaround on the rod, but on the other hand, silk, per diameter, is muchstronger than steel... steel is stronger than nickel, so how strong do weneed to be to reinforce something with something whose shear strength isstonger than the reinforced material? Whew... did that come out right?Personally, I consider the ferrule wraps to be much akin to tippingandare nothing more that to hold the tabs down against the rod and fordecoration. I don't think (I've been wrong before, however) that theferrule wraps provide any strength to the ferrule station or the area aboveor below it. If the sections are properly heat treated, properly planed,properly glued, and properly fitted to the RIGHT ferrule for the diameterofthe rod, then strength at, above or below the ferrule station should not bean issue, and in my experience has never been an issue. Wraps serve threefuntions... 1. hold the guide feet down, 2. hold the ferrule tabs down, 3.make the rod pretty. Wraps whose purpose was to help hold a rod togetherwent out with the use of Hide Glue in the Pinky Gillum days. (speakinghereof the intermediate wraps common on 19th century and early 20th centuryrodsthat were glued up with hide glues, and similar glues that are veryinferiorto even the worst rod glue we use today)Just as an example... Many of you have seen and cast my Brookie, the6'4wt... it's wrapped from end to end with Gossamer, the guide wraps are 8turns longer than the feet and the ferrule wraps are 8 turns longer thanwhat it takes to cover the tabs. The 8 turn thing is just a number I pickedout of the air, so all of my rods will be wrapped as close to exactly thesame... Point is, I use as little silk as possible... to me, a greatclassic car isn't one that has so much chrome on it that you can't see thesheet metal, and the same holds true, in my eyes, for a fine cane rod...Silk is the chrome of rodmaking, and I don't like to use anymore than isnecessary.Back to my point... The rod I wrote about above, the 6' 4wt, is NOT adelicate little dry fly rod, it is a semi-para that is well capable ofcasting in excess of 80 feet of line on dry land and in the casting poolsand has consistently thrown heavy nymphs and even the occasional woolybooger (hate those things, but when you're having a bad day, you gotta dowhat you gotta do!) on the water in excess of 60 feet (about my limit onthe water, after all, the rod is only 6' long!), and one that has landedbows and browns ranging from 10" to 26"... and I don't baby in a fish... Ilike to get them in quick and release them quick (better chance of survival aren't failin' on this puppy!I just started using Gossamer a year and a half ago... maybe 2 yearsnow, not sure... in any case, somewhere between 40 and 60 rods have beenwrapped with it just like I described above with only one failure... Andyes, it was at the ferrule, and the guy had 96 feet of DT 4 line out withthe rod, was slightly "under the influence" and was double hauling like amadman trying to hit a fire hydrant we measured at 110 feet away, when ithappened... The way he was bending that rod, I could have had the ferrulestations wrapped in titanium wire and it would have broken! I certainlydon't believe that a heavier silk wrap would have saved that poor littlerod. The caster doomed the rod when he stared double hauling over 90 feetof line in the air. Mike Shaffer, aka Doc, of the listserv was there (wewere all a bit under the influence)... ask him... this guy could make a flyline sing.... but made the rod sing it's last note, at least for awhile...it is now Billie's 5'11 1/2" 4wt... and holding up great! Later,Bob----Original Message-----From: Harry Boyd Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:28 PMSubject: Re: wrapping thread Dave, Bob,Gotta differ with you guys here. I like the PearsallsGossamer for guides. But I use a heavier thread at theferrules. So far I've been using either Angler's Workshopor Gudebrod for ferrule wraps, but I intend to order somePearsall's Naples soon. I know the thread is not designedto hold the ferrules on, but I do believe that itre-inforces the ferrule station slightly. Using a heavierthread makes me feel better about transferring a little morestress down (or up) the rod and away from the problem proneferrule area. Also, I tend to place a separate wrap thesame length as the ferrule wrap immediately us (or down) thesection. Sometimes I separate them with a trim wrap,sometimes I don't. Just my opinion,Harry Dave Norling wrote: Right on Bob,Dave Bob Nunley wrote: Pearsalls Gossamer for everything. Bob --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from RMargiotta@aol.com Tue Feb 27 07:27:30 2001 f1RDRTe17941 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes Ditto for me. The Gossamer is just too thin for my abilities. I find it's too easy to leave gaps (correctable to some degree by burnishing) and"double wraps" (not correctable), especially on butt sections. The Naples is a nice compromise. I'll use A on large rods and if I want a contrasting dark color While we're on the subject, my own observations on thread diameters seemto be different from what has been tossed about. I find the Naples too be thicker than the YLI 100 (3/0), and not equivalent to 4/0. And I find Gossamer to be just a little thinner than the 100, at least the spools I've been buying recently. I have some older Pearsalls Gossamer that are truly super thin. Is there a way to settle this. I fear my dial caliper won't do the job on such a compressible material. --Rich from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Feb 27 07:53:14 2001 f1RDrBe18560 Subject: Re: thanks everyone As I metioned before on this thread, anybody who hasn't tried this methodshould. Peter McKean spoke to me about how easy it was at a time when Iwasonly making nodeless rods so I didn't try it right off. When I made some rodswith nodes I initially thought the only reason nobody bandsaws is because alotof makers didn't own one. I found it it's because it's possibly the worst wayto do the job. I tried straight fences, pin fences, no fence, threats,swearing, foot stamping, thin blades, wide blades, blunt blades sharp blades,hi speed, slow and med speeds. I even kicked the saw. As a late teen in mythird year as a 'prettice boat builder I was making a glued lap plywood yachttender dingy a week for a few months using nothing more than a band saw,blockplane and pencil so I know my way around a band saw. I've also wrecked 3brandnew router bits in a half hr from hitting hidden nails, droped an almost newdrill into the sea while it was running, watched as my (also running) outboardmotor also droped into the sea when the mounting bracket parted from theboat,almost lost a finger to a (suddenly) spinning drill bit in a morse taper. Allthese things and more I took with a shrug and put down to experience thoughI've wondered if somebody up there was hinting at something with theoutboardthing but this was different this was Tony v The Bamboo.After a couple of hrs with nothing to show but strips far too wide for myliking or very nice kindeling I switched off the bandsaw and sat down where Iam now and read Peter's explanation of Bob's method. Litteraly 15 mins laterIhad 26 perfectly split strips on my bench. My advise if you haven't tried it is to right now, get up, grab a culm and tryit. Tony At 11:38 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: I just tried Nunley's splitting method on some scrap pieces and it works great. Its fast, its efficient, and I never have to worry about cutting my fingers off with a saw. Thanks, Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue Feb 27 08:25:25 2001 f1REPOe19999 Subject: Re: wrapping thread Well shoot Bob, We're splitting hairs again, aren't we? Guess I would have really upsetfolks if I said that I wrapped above and below ferrules because Garrison did itthat way!! Guess I've been at this long enough now to begin to developcurmudgeon-ness. I do it my way, because it's the right way. And if youwantto go on doing it the wrong way (your way), well, that's fine with me! Good to see that you've at least thought your methods through, though. All said with a definite grin, my friend. Harry Bob Nunley wrote: George,You're absolutely right on that, but my feeling is that this load straintransfer is minimal even though it does exist. I don't feel thatoverwrapping it with a larger diameter silk is toing to minimize thosestress factors, rather that, if anything, it might move those stresses toanarea of the rod that was not supposed to bend that much to begin with. So,would overwrapping with a larger diameter help the rod by moving thosestresses, or would it hurt the action by putting those stresses on an areaof the rod where they don't belong?Lets for example say you move those stresses down towards the butt.Granted, you are then moving them to an area of the rod that is larger indiameter, but at the same time, you're moving them to an area of the rodthat has more "weight" in front of it in a casting action. It has thatparticular diamter to cause it to react in a particular manner to the weightof the line, guides, varnish, etc, that are ahead of that area. Wouldn'tdoing anything to move the stresses back to this larger diameter areacauseundo stress on that area that would not need to be there? Again, if wemovepart of the total stresses for the ferrule area towards the tip of the rod,then would it not add more stress to an area of the rod that has lessdiameter, causing the tip to react more harshly to the bending momentsthanit's designed to do? More dangerous here, because you are pushing thestresses up the rod where the rod is smaller in diameter, to get it away from the ferrule where, in most tapers, the rod is designed to be relativelythick in order to handle the additional stress on that area of the rod.I don't want to inihibit or move any of those stresses, because Idesigned my tapers so that they would have a relatively steady bend from10"inches below the tip to about 10" below the ferrule. In doing this, you cansee that the ferrule itself is under quite a bending force. Matter of fact,I actually broke a female CSE Ferrule on my "snake rod", the 8' 6 wt cannoncasting it. But I've never broken a rod where it attaches to the ferrule.They, like any of the modern classics (payne, young, leonard, etc...) aredesigned to take those kind of stresses, and I don't feel that moving thosestresses around on the rod is necessarily a good thing to do.That being said, I don't think silk is going to move the stresses...yes, silk is one of the strongest organic materials known, but it is wrappedaround the rod. There is the possibility of seperation on every turn of thewraps. It would be great for holding a badly glued rod together, but thenature of the way we wrap rods, I think silk ends up being the "pretty"rather than a functional part of the rod. Now, if you wanted tocrossweavethe silk, a la some of the surf rod and bait rod buildiers, then yep, thisstuff is going to stiffen the devil out of anything you put it over. from canazon@mindspring.com Tue Feb 27 08:46:45 2001 f1REkie21018 Subject: re catskill gathering, now fishing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0A0A1.973FE620 tony,i have fished the beaverkill and shied away from the willowemoc, =because people tend to go with the things they have had success with. =this year, because of all the bad weather we had (rain) the rivers were =charged all summer and the fishing was the best anyone could remember. =the word was the willowemoc held more and bigger fish than the =beaverkill. and yes, it was cloudy and cool the weekend of the =gathering, and yes some people did fish, but i was to absorbed in =learning all that i could from the rodmakers to fish at all. and yes i =did return to fish the wemoc. although i caught no fish i did leave some =sore mouthed fish. still ridin the busmike canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0A0A1.973FE620 tony, shied away from the willowemoc, because people tend to go with the = have had success with. this year, because of all the bad weather we had = the rivers were charged all summer and the fishing was the best anyone = remember. the word was the willowemoc held more and bigger fish than the = beaverkill. and yes, it was cloudy and cool the weekend of the = yes some people did fish, but i was to absorbed in learning all that i = from the rodmakers to fish at all. and yes i did return to fish the = although i caught no fish i did leave some sore mouthed =fish. mike canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0A0A1.973FE620-- from canazon@mindspring.com Tue Feb 27 08:55:00 2001 f1REsxe21513 Subject: re; valley forge This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0A0A2.BE9425A0 gentlemen,i have already spouted off on this subject once before, so i won't =go full bore, but find a little time to see a.k. best's slide show, if =he's still there. you'll get a few good laughs, and hear a very = the usual diclaimers apply. from the bus, mike canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0A0A2.BE9425A0 this subject once before, so i won't go full bore, but find a little = and hear a very interesting discussion. apply. mike canazon ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C0A0A2.BE9425A0-- from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Tue Feb 27 09:51:13 2001 f1RFpCe23845 KAA17535; Subject: Re: wrapping thread I'm using Pearsall's gossamer from Golden Witch. It's really nice. Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com BigJohn47@aol.com wrote:just interested to know what type and size of thread everyone prefers,anddo you use one size for guides and one size for ferrules.tia john from rextutor@about.com Tue Feb 27 10:07:32 2001 f1RG7Ve24617 (NPlex 5.1.050) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: NW Rodmakers Please include me in any NW gathering Info.I could use a trip to Oregon / Washington and do some fishing on the wayRexSign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 27 10:29:49 2001 f1RGTme25646 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 27 Feb 2001 08:29:41 -0800 Subject: Re: NW Rodmakers f1RGTne25647 Here is a message that was posted by Kevin Callaway on 1-15-01. Chris M. ü---------------------------------------------------------Troutdale Gathering 2001 Finally, someone is going to tell you what is going on. To start this off, the dates of the gathering are May 5 and 6. This isthe first year that we have tried a two day program and I am hoping thatit will have plenty to offer everyone. This is what I know so far. The first day (Sat. 5) will have a similarformat to previous years with a meeting at the Troutdale CommunityCenter. As for Sunday the 6th, we have access to the Wilderness Lakesfishing facility about 20 miles south or Portland. There are threeprivate lakes to choose from with Rainbow to 7 lbs, Black bass, bluegill and crappie. The lakes are private and pleasant and we will havethe whole place to ourselves. Now comes the problems. I have an opinion that the most prominentreason we enjoy getting together is for social fellowship and thereassurance that although we are insane to the rest of the world, we arenot alone. With that in mind, I would like to put together a programthat has a smorgasbord of events rather that the more stagnant seateddiscussions or presentations. This type of program would allow people topick and choose from a scheduled list of events and still have thefreedom to socialize. The problem is, this style requires a largecommitment from the attendees to participate. So our first hurdle is toget people who are willing to offer up any type of demonstration. Thedemonstration could range from the preparing and presenting of a handoutto showing off a piece of equipment or procedure. It does not have to belong or involved just of interest to rodmakers. I would appreciatehearing any feedback on this idea (good or bad) and I would especiallyenjoy hearing from people who are willing to participate. Without thegroups involvement it will be very difficult to create a successfulgathering. The next question involves money and time. As I understand it from GaryLohkamp, we are allowed to use the Troutdale facility with thestipulation that we do not charge admission. And I would certainly liketo continue that tradition. There is however the question of being fedand watered. What is the feeling of the attendees to the following:having a catered lunch (probably about 15.00), and meeting at arestaurant for an unhosted dinner. Also, there is the cost of thefishing trip. Access for the day is 500.00 for the group. If we dividethat up it is not bad (10-20.00 depending on attendance). would you alsolike a catered lunch for the fishing trip?. If we go with the cateredlunches etc. the cost of the gathering could be around 50 to 60.00. Iwould like to hear your preference to being catered or left to fend foryourselves. I will go with the majority response on this one. Lastly, who do you blame for this- My name is Kevin Callaway and I canbe reached at callrods@teleport.com or (503) 590-3120 eve. If I havefigured out a way to hide from you, you can contact Chris Obuchowski atChristopherO@epicimaging.com If you are planning to attend, please drop one of us a note so we canstart figuring a head count. The formal registration info should go outsoon. Thank you from cathcreek@hotmail.com Tue Feb 27 12:32:14 2001 f1RIW8e02865 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 10:32:05 -0800 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 18:32:05 GMT Subject: stabilized wood inserts FILETIME=[959BD370:01C0A0EB] I tried the archives with little luck. Anyone have a method and what materials are needed to stabilize wood before turning? I found one post in archives, but I thought someone had mentioned plexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want to use for some seats and I would really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from gdabrowski@yahoo.com Tue Feb 27 12:55:28 2001 f1RItRe03790 2001 10:55:29 PST Subject: stabilizing wood for inserts Bob; I send my insert blanks to Wood StabilizingSpecialists International who processes them andreturns them to me. Take a look at their site http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml Gary Dabrowskihttp://brooksiderod.tripod.com --- Robert Clarke wrote: I tried the archives with little luck. Anyonehave a method and what materials are needed to stabilize wood beforeturning? I found one post in archives, but I thought someone had mentionedplexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want touse for some seats and I would really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from dickay@alltel.net Tue Feb 27 13:00:33 2001 f1RJ0We04116 srv.alltel.net Tue, 27 Feb 2001 13:00:33 -0600 Subject: Re: size of file to use? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A0BC.BF1082C0 Jim, About a 6" to 8" long one. Small, so you can epoxy it to a block =of wood. Break or cut off the tang.Dick Fuhrman Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 9:16 PMSubject: size of file to use? I'm in the process of making a planing form using Penrose's = Can you tell me what size of a triangular file to use to file the 60 = ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A0BC.BF1082C0 Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Lafaryjim@aol.com Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001= PMSubject: size of file to =use?I'm in the= making a planing form using Penrose's information. Can you = what size of a triangular file to use to file the 60 degree angle. = thanks. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A0BC.BF1082C0-- from dickay@alltel.net Tue Feb 27 13:35:03 2001 f1RJYwe05381 srv.alltel.net Tue, 27 Feb 2001 13:34:51 -0600 Subject: Re: stabilized wood inserts Rob, Onis Cogburn uses Plexiglas and Acetone for impregnation of Bamboo.Pentacryl is used for stabilizing wood.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message ----- Subject: stabilized wood inserts I tried the archives with little luck. Anyone have a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood before turning? I found one postinarchives, but I thought someone had mentioned plexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want to use for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Tue Feb 27 13:56:40 2001 f1RJude06444 Subject: Re: stabilized wood inserts You are probably referring to my posts. I use an acetone/plexiglas mixtureon my reel inserts. Pieces of plexiglas are dropped in a container of acetoneand left for a couple of days. The plexiglas disolves in the acetone making asyrup similar in appearance to clear Kayro syrup. I add a bottle, (three ozs. Ithink) of clear dope (model airplane paint) to it. I don't know if that's needed,I will find out when my present supply runs out. I add acetone and dilute tothe consistency of milk. I have a chamber made from a 1 1/4" galvanizediron nipple 8" long and two end caps. One endcap was bored and threaded totake a 1/4" NTP fitting (compressed air). I drop the wood (1"x1"x4 to 41/2" in my case) and a socket from my wrench set to hold it down, add theacetone/plexiglas misture and screw the cap on and hook up to mycompressor. I leave it overnight at around 100 psi. I let it dry out for abouta week before turning. The set up also works great for dying the wood. I use analine dye fromWoodcraft. The dye is dissolved in denatured alcohol and the sameprocedure as above is used. Hope this is what you were looking for. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com cathcreek@hotmail.com wrote: I tried the archives with little luck. Anyone have a method and what materials are needed to stabilize wood before turning? I found one post in archives, but I thought someone had mentioned plexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want to use for some seats and I would really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Tue Feb 27 14:04:28 2001 f1RK4Se06945 Subject: Re: stabilized wood inserts Hi Dick. I haven't tried it for the bamboo yet. I haven't decided there isenough of an overwhelming need to impregnate the bamboo to justify it. There is also the question of whether the plexiglas would affect the bondingof the glue. One of these days, I will try it but I'm in no hurry. I do all my reelseats this way. Works good for the curly and bird eye maple stuff. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote:Rob, Onis Cogburn uses Plexiglas and Acetone for impregnation of Bamboo.Pentacryl is used for stabilizing wood.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message ----- Subject: stabilized wood inserts I tried the archives with little luck. Anyone have a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood before turning? I found one postinarchives, but I thought someone had mentioned plexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want to use for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from RMargiotta@aol.com Tue Feb 27 14:24:43 2001 f1RKOge08160 Subject: Wise Fisherman's Encyclopedia I have several copies of the Wise Fisherman's Encyclopedia I need to get of the closet. This is the one with the extended rod building section by Louis Feirabend. CONTACT OFFLIST ONLY: rmargiotta@aol.com --Rich from Troutgetter@aol.com Tue Feb 27 14:46:40 2001 Subject: Re: Rodmakers clipart --part1_8.10cf2af0.27cd6ba4_boundary In a message dated 2/27/2001 4:39:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, ttalsma@macatawa.org writes: Oh, Oh. Looks like we have a spin fisherman on our hands! Troutgetter@aol.com wrote: Paul, ToddI like the moving pictures. I like shiny things too!Mike -- Todd Talsma That was mean! 8^(Mike --part1_8.10cf2af0.27cd6ba4_boundary In a message dated2/27/2001 4:39:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, ttalsma@macatawa.org writes: Oh, Oh. Troutgetter@aol.com wrote: -- Todd Talsma That was mean! 8^(Mike --part1_8.10cf2af0.27cd6ba4_boundary-- from petermckean@netspace.net.au Tue Feb 27 16:02:47 2001 f1RM2je13383 f1RM2V007731; Subject: Re: thanks everyone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0A165.1D405CA0 Hi, Tony and others Since it won't be on the archive yet, written in July 2000, I am attaching acopy of the note on hand splitting here for anyone who's interested. I knowthere is a certain reticence about opening attachments, but this one hasbeen through Mcafee many times, and as far as I am able to determine, issafe to open. Good luck, and I certainly second your thoughts about this method of handsplitting, PLAGIARISED by me from its originators I freely acknowledge! Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: thanks everyone As I metioned before on this thread, anybody who hasn't tried this methodshould. Peter McKean spoke to me about how easy it was at a time when Iwasonly making nodeless rods so I didn't try it right off. When I made somerodswith nodes I initially thought the only reason nobody bandsaws is becausealotof makers didn't own one. I found it it's because it's possibly the worstwayto do the job. I tried straight fences, pin fences, no fence, threats,swearing, foot stamping, thin blades, wide blades, blunt blades sharpblades,hi speed, slow and med speeds. I even kicked the saw. As a late teen in mythird year as a 'prettice boat builder I was making a glued lap plywoodyachttender dingy a week for a few months using nothing more than a band saw,blockplane and pencil so I know my way around a band saw. I've also wrecked 3brandnew router bits in a half hr from hitting hidden nails, droped an almostnewdrill into the sea while it was running, watched as my (also running)outboardmotor also droped into the sea when the mounting bracket parted from theboat,almost lost a finger to a (suddenly) spinning drill bit in a morse taper.Allthese things and more I took with a shrug and put down to experiencethoughI've wondered if somebody up there was hinting at something with theoutboardthing but this was different this was Tony v The Bamboo.After a couple of hrs with nothing to show but strips far too wide for myliking or very nice kindeling I switched off the bandsaw and sat downwhere Iam now and read Peter's explanation of Bob's method. Litteraly 15 minslater Ihad 26 perfectly split strips on my bench.My advise if you haven't tried it is to right now, get up, grab a culm andtryit. Tony At 11:38 PM 2/26/01 -0500, Spico81@aol.com wrote: I just tried Nunley's splitting method on some scrap pieces and it worksgreat. Its fast, its efficient, and I never have to worry about cuttingmyfingers off with a saw.Thanks,Sam /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html The node has been torn.The iron that was not sharp.Time, effort wasted.This strip is now trash. /*************************************************************************/ ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0A165.1D405CA0 name="My split note.eml" filename="My split note.eml" e6R6DMG12749; e6R6CtG12674 Subject: Re: Splitting - Richard and Bob Organization: vet OK Stuart, here we go Halve your culm pretty much as usual, and knock out the internodal dams. Ifyou are in the habit of filing the nodes at this point, go ahead.Personally, I find it easier and tidier to do that when the strips are dowmto 1/2" or so, as I seem to cause less collateral damage to the cane oneither side of the node that way. Mount the half culm in a wood vice with the curved, convex, enamelled sidefacing upward. Mount it in such a way that there are only about 6- 10"protruding from the vice toward you. Do not overtighten the vice - you wantit just firm enough to stop slippage of the culm toward you, and to preventrotation in the vice while you are working on the job. Do not overtighten tothe point where you crack or even stress the culm. Take your preferred weapon ( you may very well call it a "froe" but I callit a bloody old broken butcher's knife which I have ground down to a sort ofvery flat double edged chisel sort of thingy ) and a mallet. Very carefully measure the midpoint ( or the 1/3 point or whatever youchoose, but I think it's easier to halve it; but I did both, and both workedwell ) and start the split, making certain that it's vertical, by tappingthe splitting tool along about 6" or so. At this point, at the risk ofoverstating the obvious, your split will be stopped about 2" to 6" short ofwhere the culm is secured in the vice. Put down the splitting thingy, and don your leather gloves, which willprevent slippage, cuttage, and bleedage, and swearage! Grasp one piece of the cane in each hand, and gently but firmly pull themapart from one another. Keep it all level, and try to keep an equal pull oneither hand. When the split gets down there to the vice, loosen the vice andpull the culm out another foot or so, re-tighten, and repeat the split bypulling the bits apart again. Don't rush. And so on and so on , "walking" the split down to the vice each time untilyou are at the end of the piece, at which time you have 2 pieces, and youcan start again, this time with much greater confidence. Now the point that was made by Richard and Bob in their descriptions is thatthere is a little bit of magic in this business, and it's this - WHEN ( NOT"IF", YOU'LL NOTICE ) THE SPLIT STARTS TO WANDER TO ONE SIDE, you canmostlycorrect it, and the way you do it is this : hold the side toward which thesplit is "walking" ( which will, of course, be the narrower of the 2 stripsat this stage ) firmly with your gloved hand, and apply firm pullingpressure on it ALONG ITS LONG AXIS. That is, you don't pull it away to theside as you would in normal splitting. You just hold it, I guess, in itsnatural position, AND YOU PULL ONLY THE THICKER PIECE TO THE SIDE TOCONTINUE THE SPLIT. You will find that the split walks back to the middle,at which stage you go back to bilateral pulling and thus continue splitting. I found that somewhere along the route I lost one strip which seemed totaper out to nothing; and I had a couple of thinnish ones, but usable. Ithink that the unavoidable loss was that the original check split, as wellas the halving split, may not have followed the natural planes of cleavageof the cane as well as the subsequent hand splits. I think that covers most things that were in the originals. Bob, I thinkdoesn't use the vice, but straddles the culm like a hobby horse whilesplitting; and one of them was adamant that he only ever halved the pieces,never thirds. I found the vice to be a nice stabilising point, and didn'thave any difficulty in "thirding", but of course there is no guarantee thatthe next one I do will be as easy as this one was. I think that, with alittle foresight you could split around leaf nodes, wormholes and otherabominations in the cane, but have not as yet had to try to do that. I don't know if you can make sense out of that. Sorry to the members of thelist for the length of the note, but there seems to have been some interest,and for some reason ( my fault, I guess ), the attachments don't seem to begetting through. Go for it Peter petermckean@netspace.net.au"It's a funny old world. A man's lucky to get out of it alive."W.C.Fields----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Splitting - Richard and Bob Sorry to say, I have the same problem with the archives. I did not getyourattachment and was very disapointed. Please try again. I would love tohereyour technique. I waste alot of cane. The only difference is I can geta12" culm for $20 US. I know that makes you mad. stuart ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C0A165.1D405CA0-- from horsesho@ptd.net Tue Feb 27 16:49:18 2001 f1RMnHe15145 Organization: ProLog Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes I find the same thing as far as thread diam. go. You really can't go bythe numbers . You really have to look at it and compare. I see noadvantage to the super fine Gossomer compared to Naples. I also feelthat over the years the very fine Gossomer will need to be rewrapedsooner than the Naples or heavier OO silk. Marty Ditto for me. The Gossamer is just too thin for my abilities. I find it'stoo easy to leave gaps (correctable to some degree by burnishing) and"doublewraps" (not correctable), especially on butt sections. The Naples is a nicecompromise. I'll use A on large rods and if I want a contrasting dark color While we're on the subject, my own observations on thread diameters seemtobe different from what has been tossed about. I find the Naples too bethicker than the YLI 100 (3/0), and not equivalent to 4/0. And I findGossamer to be just a little thinner than the 100, at least the spools I'vebeen buying recently. I have some older Pearsalls Gossamer that are trulysuper thin. Is there a way to settle this. I fear my dial caliper won't dothe job on such a compressible material. --Rich from bhoy551@earthlink.net Tue Feb 27 18:06:04 2001 f1S062e18081 Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:08:17 -0500 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes Ray Gould posted the following information a while back and I archived it. As you can see, the measurements were taken a while back, so current stuff may be different. At 08:26 PM 4/22/99 -0700, Ray Gould wrote: During a Corbett Lake British Columbia bamboo rodbuilders workshop in1992Mr. Richard Sherman of Huntington Beach California presented a wonderfulsummary for us regarding thread manufacturers, sources, and sizecomparisons. He used an optical comparator to produce the following data:Gudebrod Nylon size "A" = 0.010" diameterGudebrod Nylon size "AA" = 0.008" diameterElephant silk 40 din = "A" = 0.010" diameterPhoenix silk 60 din = "OO" = 0.008" diameterGudebrod silk "OO" = 0.008" diameterPearsall silk "6-0" = 0.006" diameter In his documentation Richard indicated that Elephant silk is "pure nett"silk thread which produces a finish without "whiskers or hairs". It alsostates that size 60 is equivalent to "OO", size 40 is equivalent to "A",and size 24 is equivalent to "C". Now that I look closely at this data I wonder if the Gudebrod nylon size"AA" isn't actually supposed to be size "OO".RayAt 05:45 PM 2/27/01 -0500, marty wrote:I find the same thing as far as thread diam. go. You really can't go bythe numbers . You really have to look at it and compare. I see noadvantage to the super fine Gossomer compared to Naples. I also feelthat over the years the very fine Gossomer will need to be rewrapedsooner than the Naples or heavier OO silk. Marty Ditto for me. The Gossamer is just too thin for my abilities. I find it'stoo easy to leave gaps (correctable to some degree by burnishing) and "doublewraps" (not correctable), especially on butt sections. The Naples is a nicecompromise. I'll use A on large rods and if I want a contrasting dark color While we're on the subject, my own observations on thread diametersseem tobe different from what has been tossed about. I find the Naples too bethicker than the YLI 100 (3/0), and not equivalent to 4/0. And I findGossamer to be just a little thinner than the 100, at least the spools I'vebeen buying recently. I have some older Pearsalls Gossamer that aretrulysuper thin. Is there a way to settle this. I fear my dial caliper won't dothe job on such a compressible material. --Rich from rcurry@ttlc.net Tue Feb 27 18:22:22 2001 f1S0MMe18776 Subject: Fly Rod and Reel Article Perhaps the Fly Rod and Reel article "Making your own" will increase theinterest in making cane rods; but it is just as likely to stir interestin people to purchase cane rods from modern builders.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from flyfish@defnet.com Tue Feb 27 18:33:57 2001 f1S0Xue19130 Subject: Reed This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0A08F.473E3300 Reed = What month issue is that in? Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0A08F.473E3300 in?Thanks in advance Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C0A08F.473E3300-- from rcurry@ttlc.net Tue Feb 27 18:44:57 2001 f1S0iue19536 Subject: Re: Reed Tony,Sorry, April 2001.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Tony Miller wrote: Reed What month issue is that in?Thanks in advanceTony Miller -- from jojo@ipa.net Tue Feb 27 19:55:10 2001 f1S1t8e21108 Subject: Re: Handle Smell It's not the cork. It's the PLASTIC! HMMMWWAAAAHAAHAHAHAHAAAA! };^)>M-D This happened to the graph**e rod I use most frequently. Handle smelled ofstale sweat, same smell I used to get from my running shoes. I scrubbedwith Soft Scrub, and allowed it to dry thoroughly in the sun and it wentaway. Need some help. Opened one of my rod tubes to check out the rod (plastictype) and was knocked over by a smell which appears to be coming from thecork handle. Not ruling out that I put it away wet..:-( last time I used it.Anyone faced that problem and have a remedy. Have scubed with tooth brush,baking soda and water still appears to be Stinky. Have just used a mixtureof baking soda, lemon juice and water. Will leave it out of the tube for theenxt week to air out..Thanks in advance.Jim T from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 27 20:12:01 2001 f1S2C0e21546 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 27 Feb 2001 18:11:50 -0800 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes f1S2C1e21547 Are you guys using the Rice 6/0 silk we ordered as a group in the Java Beigeand Antique Gold a couple years back? Now that stuff is tiny. Makes memotion sick trying to focus on it. I wonder what the diameter is? Chris from miangler@yahoo.com Tue Feb 27 22:29:23 2001 f1S4TMe24452 2001 20:29:24 PST Subject: Getting started: Question on wood forms. Well, I have decided to try going with a set of woodenforms on the advice of several who have been kindenough to offer the advice. Next question... cananyone point me in the right direction of getting myhands on a schematic or plans on building a set? Iwould also be willing to buy a set off of anyone whomight have graduated to a metal set and isn't usingtheir wooden ones anymore. Let me know. Again guysthanks for the advice and encouragement. I hope I canreturn the favors one day! Mike Janik =====http://miangler.homestead.com/home.html __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Tue Feb 27 22:49:01 2001 f1S4mxe24961 Mail VirusWall NT); Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:47:20 +0800 (5.5.2651.58) Subject: Build your own forms!.htm This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_000_01C0A141.886A01EE Hi Mike,try this. It's by Bruce Conner, another list member and all roundgood guy. His page was one of the first things I found when I got thebamboo rod bug. CheersMike ------_=_NextPart_000_01C0A141.886A01EE name="Build your own forms!.htm" filename="Build your own forms!.htm" =0A==0A=Build your own forms!=0A==0A==0A==0A==0A=HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN WOODEN PLANING FORMS=0A==0A= =0A=Many of you have asked how I made my wooden planing forms, so I decided =to put it in writing. It's not very hard to make good forms out of =wood, and is much easier than making them out of metal. Accuracy is =not impaired from what I have been able to measure. Hard woods will =hold dimensions well.=0A==0A=Read the entire document before you start collecting materials, there =are some things you will need to know before you buy the wood.=0A==0A=The first thing to make is the scraper. You will use a 60 degree lathe =tool as the "blade" in this scraper. This is a metal wroking lathe =tool, not a woodworking tool. This can be purchased from any good tool =supply house. A carbide tip is OK, but high speed steel will do just =as well. My lathe tool is a 1/2 inch size. You could go larger, but =don't go smaller. Take a look at the drawing =and you will see how the tool is made. You can make it out of =several pieces of wood epoxied together. Just use a router to make the =square hole and put a cap on the end. Be sure to mark the centerline =of the tool along its length. Put the blade in with the cutting edge =facing the backwards. You will pull with this scraper, not push.=0A==0A=I suggest that you use hard maple, also called "rock" maple to make =your forms. It is hard, has a fine grain which makes working it =easier, and is readily available. You can make your forms anywhere = from 5 feet to 8 feet long, depending on what you want to make. If you =are going to make one piece rods, you might want to make a really long =form. Make the forms at least one foot longer than the longest length =of rod section you want to make. 5 feet is about the shortest you =should go unless you have a very special reason to make them =shorter.=0A==0A=Get 2 pieces of hard maple, each 1 by 2 inches (actual dimension will =be 3/4 by 1 3/4 or so because of milling) and 5 feet long. Place them =with the wide faces together align all the edges and clamp together at =both ends. Now drill a hole for a wood screw at about 2 inches from =each end. The screws hold everything in place while you drill the =holes for the adjustment bolts. Use screws that are just a bit shorter =than the overall thickness and countersink the heads.=0A==0A=There are two ways you can make the adjustment work. You can use =shoulder bolts (also called axle bolts) and set screws or you can use =plain bolts, steel pins, and set screws. The illustration shows =shoulder bolts. The shoulder bolts (or plain bolts) pull the sides of =the forms together and the set screws push them apart. The pins or =shoulder on the shoulder bolts keep everything located. =0A==0A=Put a mark at 1 inch from one end. This is going to be the "Shallow" =end of the form. Label it so. Label the other end "Deep". Starting =at the 1 inch mark you just made, measure off 5 inch increments down =one side of the forms. =0A==0A=Now, starting the the first mark you made, make another mark 1/2 inch =past each existing mark. Put a little "S" on these new marks to keep = from getting confused when you are drilling later.=0A==0A=Now draw a line lengthwise down the exact center of the forms. The =points where the lines cross is where you will drill.=0A==0A=Take a look at your shoulder bolts, they should have a shoulder section =3/8 inch diameter by 1 inch long with a 1/4-20 threaded end 1/2 inch =long. The set screws should be 1/4-20 thread by 3/4 inch long. =0A==0A=You are ready to drill the holes for the shoulder bolts. The guide =hole for the shoulder of the bolt MUST be concentric with the threaded =hole, so you need to either solidly clamp the form to your drill press =table, or put on a dowel hole drilling jig of some sort, depending on =what you have. Don't try to do this freehand! Leave enough room to =put in the largest of your drill bits when you set the height of the =drill press table, because you don't want to move anything between =drill changes. This is very important!=0A==0A=You will need a "brad point" or "Forstner" type twist drill for the 3/8 =inch hole. This type of drill bit has a flat end, not pointed and they =cut a very clean hole. You need the flat end to keep from cutting too =far into the threaded section of the hole. These drills are readily =available from most woodworker supplies or home supply stores. =0A==0A=Put in the 3/8 inch drill bit and align your form for the first bolt =hole (the ones NOT marked "S"!) Clamp the form in place and drill the =hole just a hair over 1 inch deep. This will go all the way through =the first piece of wood and a little over 1/4 inch into the piece =underneath. Don't drill too shallow or you wont be able to close your =forms all the way. Putting a drill stop on the drill is recommended, =or you can make a mark with a magic marker and watch carefully if you =have the nerves for it! Remove the 3/8 inch drill bit and put in a =3/16 inch drill bit. Don't move the forms at all during this =procedure. Now using the 3/16ths bit, drill all the way through to the =far side of the forms. You now have concentric holes! Repeat this =procedure all the way down the form until all the bolt holes are =drilled. Remove the screws which are holding the forms together.=0A==0A=Take the side of the form which has the marks on it and drill the =setscrew holes (the ones marked "S") just drill all the way through =the single piece of wood with the 3/16ths inch bit.=0A==0A=Using a 1/4-20 starter tap, tap all the setscrew holes. Then tap the =bolt holes in the other side of the form, but BE SURE to start the =threads from the countersunk hole you made with the 3/8ths inch drill. =(This is the side which would be on the INSIDE of the forms when they =are put together) This will insure that the bolts go in properly. =0A==0A=Put some beeswax or candlewax on the threads and the shoulder of the =bolts and put the forms together. The shoulder bolts should fit VERY =firmly into the holes. Snug up the bolts and check to be sure that the =forms pull together fully. If for some reason you didn't drill the =shoulder bolt holes deep enough, you will have to put a washer under =the bolt head to fix it. Wax the threads of the setscrews and install =them too, but don't tighten them. Now that the forms are put together, =take a scraper and level the tiny imperfections on the surface where =the grooves will go. The two pieces of wood may not line up exactly, =so you need to make them do so now. If you have a thickness planer or =a jointer you can do a really good job using that. A hand scraper will =do if you don't have the big tools. =0A==0A=When you are done getting everything level, use a fine waterproof =marker and put a line across the top of the form at each bolt location. =These will be your station marks for settings when you adjust the =forms. Do this on both sides.=0A==0A=Now you need to set the forms so you can put in the groove on the first =side. Do the side for making butt sections first because there is more =room for correcting errors as you learn the feel of the scraper tool. ==0A==0A=Set the forms to be about 1/16 inch apart down the entire length. =Loosen the bolts and use the set screws to push the forms apart. Take =your 60 degree depth gauge and put it at the first station at the ="Deep" end. Set the dial to zero and lock it in place. This is your =reference point for setting all the other stations. Loosen the =shoulder bolts about 3/16ths of an inch at all the stations except the =first one which you just set. This allows the forms to spread as you =do the rest of the adjustments. =0A==0A=Put the gauge on the next station and adjust the forms until the groove =is .005 wider than the first station. You may have to fiddle a bit =with the bolt and setscrew to make this happen. Be sure the bolt is =tight (just slightly firm pressure on the wrench, DO NOT over tighten). =Go to the next station and make that one .005 wider than the last one =and continue in this fashion all the way up the form. Now go back to =station 1 and check to see if it is still set to zero on your gauge. =It probably wont be! This is normal, don't worry. Adjust it until it =is at zero again and then recheck the settings of all the other =stations. They will almost certainly need readjustment. It may take 3 =or 4 passes up and down the forms until the the adjustments settle in. =Just fiddle with it until it is right and each station is .005 inch =wider than the last one. The space between the sides is now a nice =even taper from narrow to wide and you are ready to scrape the groove. =IMPORTANT: Note that the settings will make the space wider at the ="Shallow" end and wider at the "Deep" end. It will all make sense when =you start to scrape the groove. Take a look at the picture for clarification.=0A==0A=Set the scraper so that the blade just barely touches the wood when you =set it in first station at the "Deep" end (that is where the space is =the narrowest right now). Keeping the centerline of the scraper =aligned with the center of the space between the sides of the form, =scrape with a pulling motion until the scraper no longer touches the =wood. It won't take much, but you will notice that you now have a very =short section with a shallow 60 degree groove in it! Readjust the =scraper to take a little deeper bite and using a light touch, continue =to scrape out the groove. =0A==0A=If you find your tool biting in or chattering, you either have the tool =set for too deep a cut, or you are cutting against the grain. If you =are against the grain, just scrape from the opposite direction and see =if that fixes it. Sometimes you will need to work from one direction =on part of the groove and from the other direction on another part of =the groove. It's just the nature of the wood. If you get a nice =straight grained piece it will make life easier.=0A==0A=Keep repeating the adjustments and scraping until you find that you are =getting a groove at along the whole length of the form. Now you need =to start watching how deep you make the groove. Use your dial vernier =(the one you are going to use to measure your bamboo strips) and =measure the depth of the groove at the SHALLOWEST end (the "Shallow" =labeled end) by using the little tail that sticks out of the end of the =gauge when you open it up. It acts as a depth gauge when used like =this. You want to make the shallow end of the groove be .090 inches =deep. That's DEEP, not wide! Take a look a the diagram to see what I mean just to be =sure.=0A==0A=Once you have the groove scraped to the proper depth, you are ready to =do the other side of the form which will be for making your tip =sections. You will need to check the settings at the stations on the =other side to be sure they all are getting wider by .005 inch at each =station. It should still be OK, but it may need a little tweaking to =get the setup again. Proceed with the scraping just like you did on =the other side, except this time the depth of the groove will be a lot =less. The shallow end will only measure .030 inches. This isn't easy =to measure with the depth gauge, but take your time and don't overcut. =If it is a couple of thousanths too shallow, that is OK. Remember, =it's adjustable!=0A==0A=Loosen the setscrews and tighten the bolts to close the forms fully. =Run your 60 degree depth gauge up and down the forms in the groove to =see if there are any high spots, if there are, mark them with a pencil =and after opening the forms back up a bit (the whole length) use a =triangular file to clean up the trouble spots.=0A==0A==0A=Your forms are now finished! Have a cup of coffee or whatever it is =you do to celebrate a job well done. You deserve it!=0A==0A=To use the forms, adjust them to the correct depth using the 60 degree =gauge. Be sure to recheck all the stations a few times because setting =one will sometimes throw the one you just did out of adjustment. I =usually do at least 3 checks. Only takes a couple of minutes and this =is what determines the taper of your splines, so get it right.=0A==0A=You can email me from here!=0A==0A==0A=Bruce Conner / bconner@cybercom.net =0A==0A==0A=Return to the Bamboo FAQ=0A=You are number =0A=to access this page since December 20, 1995.=0A= ------_=_NextPart_000_01C0A141.886A01EE-- from CALucker@aol.com Tue Feb 27 23:01:05 2001 f1S514e25337 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes When I set up the Antique Gold custom order i told Rice (The company that bought Belding Corticelli) to make what they call 6/0. I really wanted 4/0 but they only gave me the choice of 6/0 and A. I gave Rice the spool of original Java Beige but did not do the Java Beige order because I wanted to wait until Rice could make the color in the 3/0 to 4/0 size that Payne used at one time. Someone else. I cannot remember whom, picked up on the opportunity to have Rice make the silk order. few years ago was $100 per pound with a five pound minimum. Five pounds translates into almost 27 three ounce spools of silk. I think the actual cost was $22.42 per spool/person. I didn't want anyone to pay me until they saw the silk. Everyone paid -- that says a lot about the folks on this list. Please note, if you ask Rice to do a custom order, DO NOT TELL THEM THESILK IS FOR FISHING RODS. You wwill get tax forms six months after you complete the order and distribution. Chris Lucker from petermckean@netspace.net.au Wed Feb 28 05:36:40 2001 f1SBade01725 f1SBaT004013; Subject: Re: stabilized wood inserts Just while on the subject, I had some advice from Bob that it might beappropriate to impregnate the male/female bit of the rod I made withbambooferrules with this Plexiglass/acetone soup. I was a bit concerned that the cane to cane union might work loose fairlyquickly, and had already tried to toughen it up with low viscositycyanacrylate, but didn't seem to get anywhere much. But the Plexiglass seems to work really well. Of course, I am only able to give the opinion on the way it handles andturns; I have no idea whether the toughening was ever really needed in thefirst place. Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: stabilized wood inserts Hi Dick. I haven't tried it for the bamboo yet. I haven't decided thereis enough of an overwhelming need to impregnate the bamboo to justify it.There is also the question of whether the plexiglas would affect the bondingof the glue. One of these days, I will try it but I'm in no hurry. I doall my reel seats this way. Works good for the curly and bird eye maplestuff. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Dick & Kathy Fuhrman wrote:Rob, Onis Cogburn uses Plexiglas and Acetone for impregnation ofBamboo.Pentacryl is used for stabilizing wood.Dick Fuhrman----- Original Message -----From: "Robert Clarke" Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 6:32 PMSubject: stabilized wood inserts I tried the archives with little luck. Anyone have a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood before turning? I found one postinarchives, but I thought someone had mentioned plexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want to use for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Wed Feb 28 05:46:03 2001 f1SBk3e01945 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 06:46:03 -0500 Subject: Re: stabilizing wood for inserts - Why? Gary, There is probably an obvious answer to this question but I have thought toolong on it to see it. (You know - think long, think wrong) What are thebenefits of stabilized wood inserts? Wood turners stabilize wood with pentacryl to prevent the wood fromcheckingor splitting as the wood dries. It can be turned without being fully driedand retreated as you work the piece. WSSI treats wood that already has a moisture content of less than 10% orasa bowl turning friend says, "It is already stable at that moisture content." It seems therefore that using pentacryl gets the wood on the lathe andworked without splitting while the benefit of using wood stabilized by WSSIis found after the rod is completed. If that is the case a properly oiled,varnished or whatever insert would not need to be treated by WSSI. Somebody set me straight on this. ThanksTim ----- Original Message ----- Subject: stabilizing wood for inserts Bob; I send my insert blanks to Wood StabilizingSpecialists International who processes them andreturns them to me. Take a look at their site http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml Gary Dabrowskihttp://brooksiderod.tripod.com --- Robert Clarke wrote: I tried the archives with little luck. Anyonehave a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood beforeturning? I found one post inarchives, but I thought someone had mentionedplexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want touse for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from bmaulucci@adelphia.net Wed Feb 28 05:57:59 2001 f1SBvwe02168 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 06:57:19 -0500 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes I recall getting Java Beige Rice from Jon Lintvet, I believe.Bob At 12:00 AM 2/28/2001 -0500, CALucker@aol.com wrote:Someone else. I cannot remember whom, picked up on theopportunity to have Rice make the silk order. Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com from gdabrowski@yahoo.com Wed Feb 28 08:12:43 2001 f1SEChe03784 2001 06:12:39 PST Subject: stabilizing wood for inserts - Why? Tim; The PMMA stabilization provides a coupleadvantages. First it densifyes the woodpermitting even the most complex grained woods tobe drilled,turned and milled without chippingout. This is attractive to me as I use a lot offancy walnut having convoluted grain which woulddo so if not stabilized. Second the processprovides a finish which is distributed throughoutthe material. After machining, this finish (thePMMA) may be buffed up to a high sheen (thesurface being now without any visual grain) andalso makes the insert completely waterproof. Gary Dabrowskihttp://brooksiderod.tripod.com --- Tim Wilhelm wrote:Gary, There is probably an obvious answer to thisquestion but I have thought toolong on it to see it. (You know - think long,think wrong) What are thebenefits of stabilized wood inserts? Wood turners stabilize wood with pentacryl toprevent the wood from checkingor splitting as the wood dries. It can beturned without being fully driedand retreated as you work the piece. WSSI treats wood that already has a moisturecontent of less than 10% or asa bowl turning friend says, "It is alreadystable at that moisture content." It seems therefore that using pentacryl getsthe wood on the lathe andworked without splitting while the benefit ofusing wood stabilized by WSSIis found after the rod is completed. If thatis the case a properly oiled,varnished or whatever insert would not need tobe treated by WSSI. Somebody set me straight on this. ThanksTim __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Feb 28 08:33:19 2001 f1SEXIe04862 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 06:33:16 -0800 Subject: Re: stabilizing wood for inserts - Why? Tim,I may be out of line here, answering a question addressed to Gary. Butthat's never stopped me from jumping in before, so here goes. :-0One of the difficulties with using varnished, tru-oiled, polyur'd, ortung-oiled inserts in our reel seats is that all these finishes are fragilecompared to stabilizing, or impregnating. The foot of the reel subtlyscratchesthe finish on the insert, as do the sliding bands which keep the reel in place.In time, the reel seat insert needs to be refinished. Even worse, if the finishallows moisture to absorb and evaporate, the possibility for swelling andshrinking exists. Thus the reel can be stuck on the rod, or fall off the rod.A stabilized or impregnated insert minimizes the difficulties describedabove. There is no finish on the insert. It is just buffed on a cotton wheel.So if the insert need touching up, a few passes of a loose cotton buffingwheeland white rouge will take care of it. Because the plastical stuff (technicalterm) is actually in the wood rather than on the wood, the insert is not asprone to swelling and shrinking. One further advantage to impregnating orstabilizing is that burled woods tend to fly apart while being turned on thelathe, and the stabilizing makes that possibility much more remote, althoughitcan still happen. Hope this helps,harry Tim Wilhelm wrote: Gary, There is probably an obvious answer to this question but I have thought toolong on it to see it. (You know - think long, think wrong) What are thebenefits of stabilized wood inserts? Wood turners stabilize wood with pentacryl to prevent the wood fromcheckingor splitting as the wood dries. It can be turned without being fully driedand retreated as you work the piece. WSSI treats wood that already has a moisture content of less than 10% orasa bowl turning friend says, "It is already stable at that moisture content." It seems therefore that using pentacryl gets the wood on the lathe andworked without splitting while the benefit of using wood stabilized by WSSIis found after the rod is completed. If that is the case a properly oiled,varnished or whatever insert would not need to be treated by WSSI. Somebody set me straight on this. ThanksTim ----- Original Message -----From: "Gary Dabrowski" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 1:55 PMSubject: stabilizing wood for inserts Bob; I send my insert blanks to Wood StabilizingSpecialists International who processes them andreturns them to me. Take a look at their site http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml Gary Dabrowskihttp://brooksiderod.tripod.com --- Robert Clarke wrote: I tried the archives with little luck. Anyonehave a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood beforeturning? I found one post inarchives, but I thought someone had mentionedplexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want touse for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from jczimny@dol.net Wed Feb 28 08:37:50 2001 f1SEbne05137 Organization: J. C. Zimny Rod Company cathcreek@hotmail.comSubject: Re: stabilizing wood for inserts - Why? Tim,The benefit for the rodmaker in impregnated spacers is that there is notneed tofinish the wood. A light buffing and wax gives a beautiful result. Other thanthat, the impregnation process does prevent checking. In burls and woodsproneto checking (mesquite), the process does work.Most American and Euopean hardwoods would not particularly benefit fromimpregnation as long as they are properly dried.John Z Tim Wilhelm wrote: Gary, There is probably an obvious answer to this question but I have thought toolong on it to see it. (You know - think long, think wrong) What are thebenefits of stabilized wood inserts? Wood turners stabilize wood with pentacryl to prevent the wood fromcheckingor splitting as the wood dries. It can be turned without being fully driedand retreated as you work the piece. WSSI treats wood that already has a moisture content of less than 10% orasa bowl turning friend says, "It is already stable at that moisture content." It seems therefore that using pentacryl gets the wood on the lathe andworked without splitting while the benefit of using wood stabilized by WSSIis found after the rod is completed. If that is the case a properly oiled,varnished or whatever insert would not need to be treated by WSSI. Somebody set me straight on this. ThanksTim ----- Original Message -----From: "Gary Dabrowski" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 1:55 PMSubject: stabilizing wood for inserts Bob; I send my insert blanks to Wood StabilizingSpecialists International who processes them andreturns them to me. Take a look at their site http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml Gary Dabrowskihttp://brooksiderod.tripod.com --- Robert Clarke wrote: I tried the archives with little luck. Anyonehave a method and whatmaterials are needed to stabilize wood beforeturning? I found one post inarchives, but I thought someone had mentionedplexiglas and acetone? Any ideas? I have some black walnut I want touse for some seats and Iwould really like to stabilize before I turn. Thanks, Rob Clarkecathcreek@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Feb 28 10:21:26 2001 f1SGLPe09331 with Novell_GroupWise; Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:21:02 -0800 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes f1SGLQe09332 Chris L., It really was an excellent deal you set up for us on the Gold and Jon Lintveton the Beige. I'm sure my rolls will be a lifetime supply. I've been using theJava Beige quite a lot. I recently used the Antique Gold on a rod and it has avery nice look unpreserved. Not as orange as the YLI #78 Antique Gold, butmuch more of a true gold. If a person can work with the tiny diameter of 6/0it really does make for a low profile and smooth wrap. Chris M. 02/27/01 09:00PM >>>When I set up the Antique Gold custom order i told Rice (The company that bought Belding Corticelli) to make what they call 6/0. I really wanted 4/0 but they only gave me the choice of 6/0 and A. I gave Rice the spool of original Java Beige but did not do the Java Beige order because I wanted to wait until Rice could make the color in the 3/0 to 4/0 size that Payne used at one time. Someone else. I cannot remember whom, picked up on the opportunity to have Rice make the silk order. few years ago was $100 per pound with a five pound minimum. Five pounds translates into almost 27 three ounce spools of silk. I think the actual cost was $22.42 per spool/person. I didn't want anyone to pay me until they saw the silk. Everyone paid -- that says a lot about the folks on this list. Please note, if you ask Rice to do a custom order, DO NOT TELL THEM THESILK IS FOR FISHING RODS. You wwill get tax forms six months after you complete the order and distribution. Chris Lucker from Canerods@aol.com Wed Feb 28 13:12:15 2001 f1SJCEe15258 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes --part1_17.12376172.27cea761_boundary Chris, I was one of the lucky one's to get a spool of the Antique Gold thread buy. I missed out on the Biege. I never could get a reply from Lon. What ever happened to him? He's not on the list anymore, is he? (are you?) Don Burns --part1_17.12376172.27cea761_boundary Chris, I was one of the lucky one's to get a spool of the Antique Gold threadbuy. I missed out on the Biege. I never could get a reply from Lon. What ever happened to him? He's not on the list anymore, is he? (are you?) Don Burns --part1_17.12376172.27cea761_boundary-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Wed Feb 28 15:09:41 2001 f1SL9ee19794 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 13:09:32 -0800 Subject: 7.0 Earthquake in Seattle This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C0A187.C8A9C500 Hello All, This was the hardest earthquake I have yet to experience. I was onboardon the bridge at the time. I could feel pounding on the hull of the boat,then the vessel started to rise and fall. I could not see any visible causeat the time. Next the water in the harbor began to percolate straight intothe air, no waves, just spiting straight up something like a tide rip.Finally the pilings in the dock system began to pound the docks. I did notthink those things could move so much. I have been through eighty mile perhour winds at this mooring and that does not come close to the movement Isaw to day. The whole thing lasted a little more than thirty seconds. A longduration for an earthquake, I am told. The boat is still afloat, the bamboois still in the appropriate number of pieces, and me, I need a shower and achange of clothes. Regards to all,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C0A187.C8A9C500 name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL:URL:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010228T211011ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C0A187.C8A9C500-- from darrell@rockclimbing.org Wed Feb 28 16:27:50 2001 f1SMRoe23524 sims.3.5.2000.01.05.12.18.p9) Subject: RE: 7.0 Earthquake in Seattle Well, That's worse than California has ever had... Also, I think California hashad more rain this year so far than Washington... go figure... Darrellwww.vfish.net -----Original Message----- Subject: 7.0 Earthquake in Seattle Hello All, This was the hardest earthquake I have yet to experience. I was onboardon the bridge at the time. I could feel pounding on the hull of the boat,then the vessel started to rise and fall. I could not see any visible causeat the time. Next the water in the harbor began to percolate straight intothe air, no waves, just spiting straight up something like a tide rip.Finally the pilings in the dock system began to pound the docks. I did notthink those things could move so much. I have been through eighty mile perhour winds at this mooring and that does not come close to the movement Isaw to day. The whole thing lasted a little more than thirty seconds. A longduration for an earthquake, I am told. The boat is still afloat, the bamboois still in the appropriate number of pieces, and me, I need a shower and achange of clothes. Regards to all,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from Grhghlndr@aol.com Wed Feb 28 16:31:41 2001 f1SMVee23875 Feb 2001 17:31:18 -0500 Subject: Florida Keys List,I hate to tell you guys this up north but the weather here has been in the 80sthe whole time we have been here and the fishin has been great.Bret from oossg@vbe.com Wed Feb 28 16:38:25 2001 f1SMcOe24461 Organization: Oshkosh Office Systems Subject: Kodak Fixer I just picked up a bag of fixer. For some reason I thought it would bea liquid.Did I get the right stuff for darkening hardware?Do I need to mix it all at once?Does it have a shelf life?TIAScott from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Feb 28 16:42:02 2001 f1SMg1e24801 Subject: Sharpening How many of you sharpen your plane irons with a micro-bevel? To those whohave tried it both with and without, which do you prefer and why? from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 28 16:53:27 2001 f1SMrQe25469 0500 Subject: Re:Kodak Fixer This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A14A.62EB1800 ScottYou got the right stuff.You have to mix it with water.As far as the shelf life, I'm not sure.I use it to do the parts for one rod and then dispose of it.Just mix up what you need.It reacts slower than brass black.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A14A.62EB1800 ScottYou got the right stuff.You have to mix it with =water. sure.I use it to do the parts for one rod = dispose of it.Just mix up what youneed.It reacts slower than brass =black.TonyMiller ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A14A.62EB1800-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Wed Feb 28 16:55:15 2001 f1SMtEe25668 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:55:04 +0100 (MET)User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630) Subject: Re: Kodak Fixer Scott, I have never tried the powder fixer for bluing, but it might work. I wouldsuggest You only use 1/4-1/5 of the water for the mixture. It will lastforever in a closed bottle...... If it doesn't work out, buy Kodak T-MAX fixer or Ilford Multigrade Fixer,they are both liquid. I use both straight from the can...... regardsdanny From: "Scott W. Grady" Organization: Oshkosh Office Systems Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:20:58 -0600 Subject: Kodak Fixer I just picked up a bag of fixer. For some reason I thought it would bea liquid.Did I get the right stuff for darkening hardware?Do I need to mix it all at once?Does it have a shelf life?TIAScott from stpete@netten.net Wed Feb 28 16:59:34 2001 f1SMxXe25981 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:02:58 -0600 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes I was greedy and got in on both buys of the Rice 6/0 silk. I am more thanhappy with the colors, thread diameter, and quality. Anyone who has seenmy fishing poles would be quick to agree that the finish is less thanprofessional. I dip the rods several times and hope dust doesn't collect onthem. (I think sanding varnish is for people who sell their rods). But usingquality components and materials makes my rods look like theyare soundly made and well thought through. It is obvious that I am in a rushto cast and fish them. BTW, you should see the 'custom made' PVC tubes Ikeep them in. I do spend the time to make sure the tube and the capsare the same shade of off-white. At least I put mine in a tube! Right,Wayne? RC Christopher McDowell wrote: Are you guys using the Rice 6/0 silk we ordered as a group in the JavaBeige and Antique Gold a couple years back? Now that stuff is tiny. Makesme motion sick trying to focus on it. I wonder what the diameter is? Chris from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 28 17:06:40 2001 f1SN6de26445 0500 Subject: Re: Kodak Fixer This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0A14C.3CAB0040 DannyI didn't realize that it come in a liquid form.Does it work better?When I asked for it at the photo shop ,the powderis all they had, but it worked.Tony Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0A14C.3CAB0040 DannyI didn't realize that it come in a = form.Does it work better?When I asked for it at the photo shop = powderis all they had, but it =worked.Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C0A14C.3CAB0040-- from nobler@satx.rr.com Wed Feb 28 17:08:39 2001 f1SN8de26622 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:02:00 -0600 Subject: Re: Florida Keys We had 80 here in San Antonio yesterday, then a front hit last night. Ourhigh today was about 46 ! We'll be back in the 70's Sat. tho' !GMA from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Wed Feb 28 17:26:52 2001 f1SNQpe27453 Subject: Re: Florida Keys f1SNQqe27454 You think that's fun- The snow is still waist -deep and it'll be 10 below againtonight up here- so there!!!!! John K.-----Original Message----- ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Florida Keys List,I hate to tell you guys this up north but the weather here has been in the80s the whole time we have been here and the fishin has been great.Bret from CALucker@aol.com Wed Feb 28 17:43:29 2001 f1SNhTe28082 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes In a message dated 2/28/01 2:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, stpete@netten.net writes: I stopped hoping years ago. I simply came out with my own line of rods called the "Angora Series."Chris Lucker from rcurry@ttlc.net Wed Feb 28 17:55:01 2001 f1SNsqe28636 Subject: Reelseat with fighting butt All,I just received a bronze reelseat with detachable fighting butt fromTony Young. A very clever and solid bit of work. You can see a jpg at http://www.overmywaders.com/reelseat.jpg Usual disclaimer applies.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Feb 28 18:25:09 2001 f210P7e29572 0500 Subject: Re:Thread size, now finish This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A157.30016B80 Guys I think the finish is the hardest part of rodmaking.I'm constantly trying to get a better finish.But no matter how hard I try I can still see a few dust specsin my finish. When I think back on all the rods I have seenI don't remember ever seeing dust in any of them. LOLBut then it hit me, I didn't put them 2 inches away from my nose to =inspect them, like I do with my rods.I just wonder if there are dust specs in those rods.The best finish I have ever seen is on Jeff Wagner's rods.I must admit he sets the bar high for the rest of us. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A157.30016B80 Guys I think the finish is the hardest = rodmaking.I'm constantly trying to get a finish.But no matter how hard I try I can = dust specs = rods I have seenI don't remember ever seeing dust in = LOL inches away from my nose to inspect them, like I do with my =rods. rods.The best finish I have ever seen is on = Wagner's rods.I must admit he sets the bar high for = us.Have you guys seen his = ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C0A157.30016B80-- from GriffinJohn@msn.com Wed Feb 28 18:32:26 2001 f210WPe29934 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:32:21 -0800 Subject: Heddon Help? 125 Expert =_NextPart_001_0007_01C0A1BD.E71E7E00" FILETIME=[146514E0:01C0A1E7] ------=_NextPart_001_0007_01C0A1BD.E71E7E00 I am fixing up a Heddon #125 8 1/2' 3/2. The blank, grip, and seat are ba=sically in fine shape, but the windings are brittle, and a couple of guid=es are missing. In addition, the butt/mid ferrule is cracked. I would lik=e to restore the rod to original, as much as possible Any advice would be appreciated: - Where can I find Heddon Gold wrapping thread? (It has black tipping; I =plan to use 3/0 YLI black for this) - I've removed and sent the cracked ferrule to Ricks Rods in Denver. If h=e isn't able to match, are there any other sources? - The rod looks as if it was used v little, yet the cracked ferrule. Shou=ld I replace the female mid and male tip ferrule pieces as well? They're =not cracked at this time, but I do plan to fish this rod. - The ferrules look like NS, but are Japanned(?) gold, as are the guides.=Any source for Japanning laquer these days? I called the vendor noted in=Sinclair's book (Constantines), but didn't come up with anything. - The stripper is missing. Anyone know the original stripper type on this=rod? Sinclair notes that it and the snakes are "plated" a gold color - The rod has an added on hookkeeper. Sinclair's Restoration book says op=en hookkeeper, but also says straight grip (its a reversed wells) and mar=oon wraps (they're gold), so maybe I have a different year rod? Can't tel=l if it originally had a hookkeeper not. Anyone know? - How about rod finish? I just read Sinclair's Heddon book, and it mentio=ns that Heddon airbrushed a (modified spar varnish) finish onto the rods.=I would like to try doing this. Has anyone else tried spraying? Do it be=fore or after wrapping? (or both?) JohnGet your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0007_01C0A1BD.E71E7E00 I amfix= basically in fine shape, but the windings are brittle, and a couple of gu= - Where can I find Heddon Gold wrapping thread? (It has black tipping; I= removed and sent the cracked ferrule to Ricks Rods in Denver. If he isn't= - The rod looks as if it was used v little, yet the cracked ferrule. Sho=uld I replace the female mid and male tip ferrule pieces as well? They're=not cracked at this time, but I do plan to fish this rod. &nb=sp; - The ferrules look like NS, but are Japanned(?) gold, as =are the guides. Any source for Japanning laquer these days? I called the =vendor noted in Sinclair's book (Constantines), but didn't come up with a= k= - The rod has an added on hookkeeper. Sinclair's Restoration book says o=pen hookkeeper, but also says straight grip (its a reversed wells) and&nb=sp;maroon wraps (they're gold), so maybe I have a different year rod? Can='t tell if it originally had a hookkeeper not. Anyone know? &n=bsp; - How about rod finish? I just read Sinclair's Heddon boo= finish onto the rods. I would like to try doing this. Has anyone else tri= John Get y=our FREE download of MSN Explorer at =http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0007_01C0A1BD.E71E7E00-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Feb 28 19:00:39 2001 f2110ce00888 with Novell_GroupWise; Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:00:23 -0800 Subject: Re: Heddon Help? 125 Expert f2110de00889 I used YLI Antique Gold #78 preserved with lacquer and it was a pretty goodmatch for the #125 Expert color. Lacquer darkens the thread a little morethen water based preserver and the darker color was closer to original. This site indicated they had some original Heddon ferrules for sale in 2F size, you would probably have to lacquer them gold. Matching the color exactly willbe tough so another option is to re-coat all gold parts.http://members.home.net/splitcane/rodpage.html I believe the original stripper is a compact Perfection style in about a size #6or #8. I've not seen any modern stripper guides that are the same, butsomeone might no of a brand that is close. The #125 I re-finished had gold wraps, not maroon, and all the highernumbered Heddons I've seen had strap and ring hookkeepers and open wasthe most common wrap pattern. Chris "John Griffin" 02/28/01 04:37PM >>>I am fixing up a Heddon #125 8 1/2' 3/2. The blank, grip, and seat arebasically in fine shape, but the windings are brittle, and a couple of guides aremissing. In addition, the butt/mid ferrule is cracked. I would like to restorethe rod to original, as much as possible Any advice would be appreciated: - Where can I find Heddon Gold wrapping thread? (It has black tipping; I plan touse 3/0 YLI black for this) - I've removed and sent the cracked ferrule to Ricks Rods in Denver. If heisn't able to match, are there any other sources? - The rod looks as if it was used v little, yet the cracked ferrule. Should Ireplace the female mid and male tip ferrule pieces as well? They're notcracked at this time, but I do plan to fish this rod. - The ferrules look like NS, but are Japanned(?) gold, as are the guides. Anysource for Japanning laquer these days? I called the vendor noted in Sinclair'sbook (Constantines), but didn't come up with anything. - The stripper is missing. Anyone know the original stripper type on this rod?Sinclair notes that it and the snakes are "plated" a gold color - The rod has an added on hookkeeper. Sinclair's Restoration book says openhookkeeper, but also says straight grip (its a reversed wells) and maroonwraps (they're gold), so maybe I have a different year rod? Can't tell if itoriginally had a hookkeeper not. Anyone know? - How about rod finish? I just read Sinclair's Heddon book, and it mentionsthat Heddon airbrushed a (modified spar varnish) finish onto the rods. I wouldlike to try doing this. Has anyone else tried spraying? Do it before or afterwrapping? (or both?) Many TIA, JohnGet your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from rsgould@cmc.net Wed Feb 28 19:07:38 2001 f2117be01207 Subject: Re: 7.0 Earthquake in Seattle HI Richard and All,I was on the 5th floor of a building in the downtown area Seattle area closeto where the maximum damage to structures occurred (within a block or so)working with a group on the Washington State Salmon Recovery strategywhenthe quake hit. It was intense indeed and very scary. All one could do was tohang on and try to protect yourself for the duration of the quake whichlasted about a full minute. Luckily the building I was in was new and didn'tfail although I saw cracks in the walls and chunks of cement on the floor aswe exited down the stairwell and got outside. What a mess and there was alot of very terrified people. I can also remember what the 1949 earthquakewas like here in Seattle and this seemed worse. When I finally got home Ifound my wife and home were okay, thank goodness. Geez, I hope I don'texperience that again although now I find myself bracing for theaftershocks!Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: 7.0 Earthquake in Seattle Hello All, This was the hardest earthquake I have yet to experience. I wasonboardon the bridge at the time. I could feel pounding on the hull of the boat,then the vessel started to rise and fall. I could not see any visiblecauseat the time. Next the water in the harbor began to percolate straight intothe air, no waves, just spiting straight up something like a tide rip.Finally the pilings in the dock system began to pound the docks. I did notthink those things could move so much. I have been through eighty mile perhour winds at this mooring and that does not come close to the movementIsaw to day. The whole thing lasted a little more than thirty seconds. A longduration for an earthquake, I am told. The boat is still afloat, thebamboois still in the appropriate number of pieces, and me, I need a shower andachange of clothes. Regards to all,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com from Lazybee45@aol.com Wed Feb 28 19:09:04 2001 f21193e01373 Subject: Re: Florida Keys In a message dated 2/28/01 5:27:42 PM Central Standard Time, mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com writes: Yuh! I live inIOWA and we had 2 degrees this AM as I went to work. COLD! Sunday we had so much snow that they closed some highways in NW Iowa. arrrrgh! Come ON spring! We have had 90 days with snow on the ground sofar this winter, (continously!) mark "Piscator non solum Piscatur" from Canerods@aol.com Wed Feb 28 19:09:15 2001 f2119Ee01436 Subject: Re: Heddon Help? 125 Expert --part1_23.810ae48.27cefb2b_boundary John, Tony Young in Perth Austrailia has the proper ferrule design for these rods, I sent him a cracked ferrule. He'd need to know what size it is that you need. If the rod isn't marked in it's "F" size then you'll need to come up with the 64th's. I can supply the stripper guide. Email me for details. The gold thread with black tipping is standard on all of these rods. So is gold metal bits. You can use an gold spray paint or other gold paint to spray the metal. When covered with the new varnish it should lok okay. The thread itself is hard to match and you might want to rewrap the wholerod with antique gold from Angler's Workshop or Grudbrod gold thread. DarrellLee might have the proper thread on his website too. All Heddon rods have strap and ring hookkeepers that are wrapped in theopen style. There's no maroon on this rod. You should be able to buy a can of McKosky's Man-O-War gloss spar varnish in a spray can. Try it. Don't use varitane or othe rpoly-urethane varnishes. Don Burns --part1_23.810ae48.27cefb2b_boundary John, Tony Young in Perth Austrailia has the proper ferrule design for theserods, I sent him a cracked ferrule. He'd need to know what size it is that you need. If the rod isn't marked in it's "F" size then you'll need to come up with the 64th's. I can supply the stripper guide. Email me for details. The gold thread with black tipping is standard on all of these rods. So is gold metal bits. You can use an gold spray paint or other gold paint tospray the metal. When covered with the new varnish it should lok okay. The thread itself is hard to match and you might want to rewrap thewhole rod with antique gold from Angler's Workshop or Grudbrod gold thread.Darrell Lee might have the proper thread on his website too. All Heddon rods have strap and ring hookkeepers that are wrapped inthe open style. There's no maroon on this rod. You should be able to buy a can of McKosky's Man-O-War gloss sparvarnish in a spray can. Try it. Don't use varitane or othe rpoly-urethanevarnishes. Don Burns --part1_23.810ae48.27cefb2b_boundary-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Feb 28 19:23:10 2001 f211N9e01996 Wed, 28 Feb 2001 21:22:29 -0400 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Florida Keys I got you all beat so far, -20 here today, I'm not complaining though 6 yearsof -50weather in Northern Alberta makes this Nova Scotia weather a cakewalk! Shawn Lazybee45@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/28/01 5:27:42 PM Central Standard Time,mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com writes: again tonight up here- so there!!!!! John K. >>Yuh! I live inIOWA and we had 2 degrees this AM as I went to work. COLD!Sunday we had so much snow that they closed some highways in NW Iowa.arrrrgh! Come ON spring! We have had 90 days with snow on the ground sofarthis winter, (continously!)mark "Piscator non solum Piscatur" from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Wed Feb 28 19:39:27 2001 f211dPe02505 Subject: Re: Florida Keys f211dQe02506 That's ok Just wait until mid-July when the air temperature here is 75 and the water is62. The fish will be rising and I'll be casting my new bamboo rod out on theKennebec. What will it be like in the Keys then?????-----Original Message-- --- Grhghlndr@aol.com ; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Florida Keys I got you all beat so far, -20 here today, I'm not complaining though 6 yearsof -50weather in Northern Alberta makes this Nova Scotia weather a cakewalk! Shawn Lazybee45@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/28/01 5:27:42 PM Central Standard Time,mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com writes: again tonight up here- so there!!!!! John K. >>Yuh! I live inIOWA and we had 2 degrees this AM as I went to work. COLD!Sunday we had so much snow that they closed some highways in NW Iowa.arrrrgh! Come ON spring! We have had 90 days with snow on the groundso farthis winter, (continously!)mark "Piscator non solum Piscatur" from Troutgetter@aol.com Wed Feb 28 20:52:10 2001 f212q9e04294 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes --part1_31.1118db62.27cf1308_boundary In a message dated 2/28/2001 2:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, stpete@netten.net writes: BTW, you should see the 'custom made' PVC tubes I keep them in. I dospend the time to make sure the tube and the caps Perhaps a group order is in the works here. I can never seem to get my pvc tube color to match the cap color. It's embarrassing!Mike --part1_31.1118db62.27cf1308_boundary In a message dated2/28/2001 2:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, stpete@netten.net writes: BTW, you should the time to make sure the tube and the capsare the same shade of off- white. Perhaps a group order is in the works here. I can never seem to get mypvc tube color to match the cap color. It's embarrassing!Mike --part1_31.1118db62.27cf1308_boundary-- from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Feb 28 21:31:30 2001 f213VUe05123 0600 Subject: Re: wrapping thread -- now thread sizes --------------866EC324DA434AEEE80DD57D Try Wal Mart Pharmacy Caps. They match real good.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Troutgetter@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/28/2001 2:59:59 PM PacificStandard Time,stpete@netten.net writes: BTW, you should see the 'custom made' PVCtubes I keep them in. I do spendthe time to make sure the tube and the capsare the same shade of off-white. Perhaps a group order is in the works here. Ican never seem to get my pvctube color to match the cap color. It'sembarrassing!Mike --------------866EC324DA434AEEE80DD57D Try Wal Mart Pharmacy Caps. They match real good. Troutgetter@aol.com wrote:In amessagedated 2/28/2001 2:59:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,stpete@netten.netwrites: BTW, spendthe time to make sure thetube and the capsare the same shade of off- white. Perhaps a group order isin the works here. I can never seem to get my pvctube color to match thecap color. It's embarrassing!Mike