from rwallace@greatnorthern.net Tue May 1 05:56:51 2001 f41AuoS13183 Tue, 1 May 2001 03:56:48 -0700 Subject: Re: Shipping a rod by USPS FEDEX! I shipped half of a bundle of bamboo from WA to Ken in CO. The folksat the station had lots of weird looks and questions, but they didn't chargeme for the super long cardboard boxes or the 50 miles of packing tape. Theyeven helped me with the packing and asked me to bring in a rod to showthem!They also have on line tracking and price quotes at www.fedex.com Of course I have no financial interest, I just want to fly their airplanes! Ray Wallace Does anyone know if the USPS will ship rods that are in an aluminum tubeinside and outer PVC tube? (I know it sounds crazy, but I want to makesurethis particular rod gets there in one piece). I know they often have weirdrequirements. The tube will meet the length and girth requirements, and Iknow it will be heavy. UPS is not an option. Basically, I want to justslapa label on the PVC.Thanks in advance. Bob Maulucci from nobler@satx.rr.com Tue May 1 06:17:28 2001 f41BHRS13497 f41BHJdQ012032; , , Subject: Re: 8' 9" rod for salmon My old PHY catalog spoke Bobby Doer fishing for salmon when playing for theBoston team ! It makes no matter, it's another great taper. I thought it wasin the archives, but if not, I'll post it here shortly.GMA from dnorl@qwest.net Tue May 1 07:59:54 2001 f41CxrS15018 (63.228.46.108) Subject: Cattanch VCR tapes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Someone asked about availability of the Cattanach tapes a while back. I =found some, contact me off list for address.Dave Someone asked about availabilityof = address.Dave from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue May 1 09:29:56 2001 f41ETtS18353 Subject: First Rod blues I cannot believe the sheer stupidity of what I have done. My first rod wasfinally into the stage of assembling components and finishing. I hadalready put two coats of varnish on the blank and yesterday received in themail the guides and thread I wanted for this rod. I discovered thatwrapping a varnished rod is a little different and more difficult thanwrapping one without varnish. The second coat of varnish was not adheringproperly under the abuse of sliding thread and burnishing, and the wrapswere nearly impossible to get right, so I decided to remove the top coat ofvarnish by rubbing it out with steel wool before proceeding. It was late atnight, I was aggravated by my difficulties in attempting to wrap (I alsoquit smoking three days ago so I'm more than a little on edge anyway), whenI start rubbing the tip section with steel wool. Not even thinking, I pickup the joint wrap the wool around it and start rubbing, working my waytoward the tip. First time the steel wool reaches the tip of the rod, onthe downstroke it catches the tip, fractures the joint about 1/3 of the waydown. I don't know why I was doing this, I am fully aware that the onlyway to sand or rub a tip section is to set it flat on the bench, but there Iwas doing it wrong and now with a broken rod. Due to errors in planing andproblems with the quality of the cane, this became, during construction a 1tip rod. It is now a no-tip rod. I was so close to actually being able tocast my first rod. Those of who remember your first one, will rememberhowdifficult it was, every step of the way had to be thought out, agonizedover, then finally you had to set aside trepidation and just pick up thetools and do it. You invest so much of yourself in that first rod. I,unfortunately, will now never have a first rod. The fracture is repairable,but I just cannot see the point in repairing it. The rod would come off thebench for the first time and already be damaged, seems silly to do. Asubstantial part of me wants to put the tools away, just forget about thisridiculous idea of building overpriced, overengineered, overly delicate toysout of an oversized grass from the other side of the world. Another part ofme was out in the shop this morning checking on the progress of what wouldhave been rod #2, trying to figure out if I can get it done before myMemorial Day trip to Yellowstone. (I so wanted to fish my own rod on theFirehole, boy did I want that). Why the hell would a moderately successful,fully rational, reasonably well-adjust man like myself care so much about afreaking fly rod? Sorry, there really is no point to this post, I just had to vent, and I knewthat at least some of the people on this list would understand. from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue May 1 10:19:03 2001 f41FJ2S20518 Subject: Test from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue May 1 10:19:40 2001 f41FJdS20627 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 01 May 2001 08:19:10 -0700 Subject: RE: 8' 9" rod for salmon f41FJdS20629 This has nothing to do with rodmaking, just a side note. I do yard work foran 86 year old friend, Bud Brewer, here in Eugene who was a pitcher for St.Louis at some point in time and played for other farm teams in the 30's and40's. Somewhere along the way, probably due to their close proximity, hemet up with Bobby Doerr and they became friends. Last Summer I was working at Bud's house and he was leaving to go over to Bobby Doerr's houseto visit. Bobby lives in Junction City, about 10 miles from my house. I'll haveto ask Bud to see if Bobby has any fishing/rod stories to pass along. Chris McDowell "Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD" 04/30/01 05:39PM >>>actually, the bobby doerr was designed as a steelhead rod for the ballplayer from oregon.it's along, relatively heavy (although all nine foot nine weight cane rodsare), and very powerful parabolic rod.throws nice long casts, but doesn't roll cast well (you can't one handedspey cast with it). chris -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: 8' 9" rod for salmon PHY made the Bobby Doer as a salmon rod for the ball player. It's not bad asa bugging rod, and I'd think good for steelhead too !GMA from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue May 1 10:20:22 2001 f41FKKS20846 Subject: First Rod blues I cannot believe the sheer stupidity of what I have done. My first rodwas finally into the stage of assembling components and finishing. I hadalready put two coats of varnish on the blank and yesterday received inthe mail the guides and thread I wanted for this rod. I discovered thatwrapping a varnished rod is a little different and more difficult thanwrapping one without varnish. The second coat of varnish was notadheringproperly under the abuse of sliding thread and burnishing, and the wrapswere nearly impossible to get right, so I decided to remove the top coatof varnish by rubbing it out with steel wool before proceeding. It waslate at night, I was aggravated by my difficulties in attempting to wrap(I also quit smoking three days ago so I'm more than a little on edgeanyway), when I start rubbing the tip section with steel wool. Not eventhinking, I pick up the joint wrap the wool around it and start rubbing,working my way toward the tip. First time the steel wool reaches the tipof the rod, on the downstroke it catches the tip, fractures the jointabout 1/3 of the way down. I don't know why I was doing this, I amfully aware that the only way to sand or rub a tip section is to set itflat on the bench, but there I was doing it wrong and now with a brokenrod. Due to errors in planing and problems with the quality of the cane,this became, during construction a 1 tip rod. It is now a no-tip rod. Iwas so close to actually being able to cast my first rod. Those of whoremember your first one, will remember how difficult it was, every step ofthe way had to be thought out, agonized over, then finally you had to setaside trepidation and just pick up the tools and do it. You invest somuch of yourself in that first rod. I, unfortunately, will now never havea first rod. The fracture is repairable, but I just cannot see the pointin repairing it. The rod would come off the bench for the first time andalready be damaged, seems silly to do. A substantial part of me wants toput the tools away, just forget about this ridiculous idea of buildingoverpriced, overengineered, overly delicate toys out of an oversized grass from the other side of the world. Another part of me was out in the shopthis morning checking on the progress of what would have been rod #2,trying to figure out if I can get it done before my Memorial Day trip toYellowstone. (I so wanted to fish my own rod on the Firehole, boy did Iwant that). Why the hell would a moderately successful, fully rational,reasonably well-adjust man like myself care so much about a freaking flyrod? Sorry, there really is no point to this post, I just had to vent, and Iknew that at least some of the people on this list would understand. from AlanM@unityhealth.com Tue May 1 10:36:32 2001 f41FaWS21755 2001 15:37:44 UT 2001 15:36:50 UT (5.5.2653.19) Subject: Re: First Rod blues Look on the bright side: you have the time, space, and money to have atleast made the effort in the first place. I've been quietly wanting tobuild my first bamboo rod for the past five years, but in all that time I'velived in an apartment and can't figure out where I would be able to do therequired work - hence, no space. I actually have been considering renting astorage unit somewhere with a power jack in it just so I could build abamboo rod. In any case, finish rod #2 and consider it rod #1, since rod #1never actually became rod #1. I would imagine (and I can only imagine atthis point) that if you finish rod #2 and save rod #1 for repairing later,you'll look back on this foible with some degree of humor - probably atabout the same time you are setting the hook on a fine fish with rod #2. Right now I'm in a position where I look forward to the day I get to screwup my first attempt at making a bamboo fly rod; I envy you. Were I in yourshoes I would probably repair the broken tip anyway. Perfection is not somuch a requirement as a goal, and to me, catching a trout on a beautifulstream on the first rod I ever built - even if it less than perfect, seemsas close to perfection as one needs to come to achieve some real sinceregrace in his or her life. And, looking forward, having achieved that stateof grace and self-sufficiency that some regard as the complete fisherman,you can then rest at ease and build that better rod. Then if you want to give me the less than perfect first attempt, I'llhappily take it off your hands. :) Al from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Tue May 1 10:55:51 2001 f41FtoS22875 2001 08:55:53 PDT Subject: Re: First Rod blues alan, i've thot alot about making a rod in a smallapartment. if i had to move back into those diggs iwould still build a rod. i think i've got it figuredout. timothy --- Alan Macey wrote:Look on the bright side: you have the time, space,and money to have atleast made the effort in the first place. I've beenquietly wanting tobuild my first bamboo rod for the past five years,but in all that time I'velived in an apartment and can't figure out where Iwould be able to do therequired work - hence, no space. I actually havebeen considering renting astorage unit somewhere with a power jack in it justso I could build abamboo rod. In any case, finish rod #2 and considerit rod #1, since rod #1never actually became rod #1. I would imagine (andI can only imagine atthis point) that if you finish rod #2 and save rod#1 for repairing later,you'll look back on this foible with some degree ofhumor - probably atabout the same time you are setting the hook on afine fish with rod #2. Right now I'm in a position where I look forward tothe day I get to screwup my first attempt at making a bamboo fly rod; Ienvy you. Were I in yourshoes I would probably repair the broken tip anyway.Perfection is not somuch a requirement as a goal, and to me, catching atrout on a beautifulstream on the first rod I ever built - even if itless than perfect, seemsas close to perfection as one needs to come toachieve some real sinceregrace in his or her life. And, looking forward,having achieved that stateof grace and self- sufficiency that some regard asthe complete fisherman,you can then rest at ease and build that better rod. Then if you want to give me the less than perfectfirst attempt, I'llhappily take it off your hands. :) Al ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Tue May 1 11:06:44 2001 f41G6iS23814 2001 09:06:47 PDT Subject: Soaking and planning Decided to try soaking and planning some cane to seeif it made straightening and planning any easier. Itdid in fact make it easier. My question is this, doesanyone have a rod that they have been fishing awhile,that used this technique? Wondering if itaffects the structural longevity of the cane? Thanks,Bill Walters __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue May 1 11:51:11 2001 f41Gp9S25909 Subject: Re: First Rod blues Just wait till you're sanding the fitted handle in the lathe and when yousneeze you don't let go of the sandpaper wraped around the handle. The result looks very much like a bird cage without the functionality. NowTHAT will ruin your feeling of well being. Tony At 08:55 AM 5/1/01 -0700, timothy troester wrote:alan, i've thot alot about making a rod in a smallapartment. if i had to move back into those diggs iwould still build a rod. i think i've got it figuredout. timothy --- Alan Macey wrote:Look on the bright side: you have the time, space,and money to have atleast made the effort in the first place. I've beenquietly wanting tobuild my first bamboo rod for the past five years,but in all that time I'velived in an apartment and can't figure out where Iwould be able to do therequired work - hence, no space. I actually havebeen considering renting astorage unit somewhere with a power jack in it justso I could build abamboo rod. In any case, finish rod #2 and considerit rod #1, since rod #1never actually became rod #1. I would imagine (andI can only imagine atthis point) that if you finish rod #2 and save rod#1 for repairing later,you'll look back on this foible with some degree ofhumor - probably atabout the same time you are setting the hook on afine fish with rod #2. Right now I'm in a position where I look forward tothe day I get to screwup my first attempt at making a bamboo fly rod; Ienvy you. Were I in yourshoes I would probably repair the broken tip anyway.Perfection is not somuch a requirement as a goal, and to me, catching atrout on a beautifulstream on the first rod I ever built - even if itless than perfect, seemsas close to perfection as one needs to come toachieve some real sinceregrace in his or her life. And, looking forward,having achieved that stateof grace and self- sufficiency that some regard asthe complete fisherman,you can then rest at ease and build that better rod. Then if you want to give me the less than perfectfirst attempt, I'llhappily take it off your hands. :) Al ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you love a thing let it go,If it returns it's yours,If it doesn't, hunt it down and kill it. /**************************************************************************/ from flyfish@defnet.com Tue May 1 12:11:33 2001 f41HBWS27143 Subject: TEST /Delete This is a multi-part message in MIME format. from flyfish@defnet.com Tue May 1 12:29:38 2001 f41HTcS27845 Subject: Re:First Rod Blues This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I have fished the Firehole with a rod I restoredand it's a great feeling!You still have time to make a replacement tipbefore memorial day.Plane out a new tip and if you need any help on That is the way I do it on my rods. Email me off list if you want the =help. You can call me too(419)782-5752Tony Miller DON'T GIVE UP! IT IS WORTH I have fished the Fireholewith = restoredand it's a great =feeling!You still have time to make a= tipbefore memorial =day.Plane out a new tip and if you= help onputting the wraps on after = I can help. That is the way I do it on my= (419)782-5752Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Tue May 1 12:56:54 2001 f41HurS28932 2001 10:30:17 PDT Subject: Test, please delete Test to see if still receiving from list. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from mbiondo@wuacn.wustl.edu Tue May 1 13:03:17 2001 f41I3GS29384 Subject: Re: First Rod blues I cannot believe the sheer stupidity of what I have done. ... Jim, all is not lost! It's not that tough to splice a new section rod onto your tip. A similar tip mishap happened to listmember Doug Hall upon arriving at The Grayrock Rodmakers Gathering a couple years ago. When Doug pulled his rod out of the tube to go fishing, he found the tip section broke 6 - 8 inches from the tip. Wayne took the dimensions at the break, got a nodeless splicing block that was laying around, mounted the good part of Doug's tip section in the block, and planed a nice scarf. Then took an old tip section that was laying around, found the spot on the tip of that section that matched the dimensions taken from Doug's section, and planed a scarf on that. Slap some glue on the two pieces and bound it up. The repair worked fine, and he fished it the rest of the week while in Grayling! Even if you didn't have any old tip sections laying around, it would still probably take less time to plane, and glue up a small section of tip than it would for a whole tip section. Hell, you could even use the scraps of cane you have left over. Point is, it might not be as "perfect", or "aesthetically pleasing" as if it never happened, but I bet you would have a cane rod to fish on that Yellowstone trip at the end of the month! And you would enjoy it just as much! Mike - hey man, it's just a fishin' pole - BiondoSt. Louis, MO from AlanM@unityhealth.com Tue May 1 13:36:25 2001 f41IaOS01281 2001 18:37:37 UT 2001 18:36:43 UT (5.5.2653.19) Subject: Wisconsin rodbuilders Does anyone know of any Wisconsin (around Madison ideally) rodbuilders thatmight be kind enough to let a complete novice shadow them for a day or so,provide pointers, and generally pour their expertise into the empty vesselthat is my head? I'd like to find a good mentor to learn this art form. Any info. would begreatly appreciated. Thanks,Al from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue May 1 14:49:24 2001 f41JnNS05033 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: clean thinner! Guys,got a problem hopefully you can help me with. I used to use bottle andballoon for varnishing but I now have moved up to a drip tube, problem I'mhaving nowis impurities in my thinner.I originally thought I had gotten dust in my spar urethane, so I replaceditand had the same thing. On further investigation I realized that the more Itriedcleaning my drip tube the worse it got. I looked carefully at the walls of thetubeafter rinsing with thinner and saw tiny specs clinging to the walls. I found theculprit!My problem now is, finding a CLEAN alternative to the Canadian Tirethinner Ihave been using. Someone mentioned recently that allot of thinners are madefromrecycled material with impurities, they were right! Before with bottle andballoon,the problem was non existent as I always had a new dip container and freshsparurethane.Suggestions please?? Hopefully the alternatives will be available here inNova Scotia.TIA,Shawn "Striving for perfect finish" Pineo from flyfish@defnet.com Tue May 1 15:46:09 2001 f41Kk8S07933 Subject: test/delete This is a multi-part message in MIME format. test test from flyfish@defnet.com Tue May 1 15:53:29 2001 f41KrTS08318 Subject: Fw: Re:First Rod Blues This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Subject: Re:First Rod Blues I have fished the Firehole with a rod I restoredand it's a great feeling!You still have time to make a replacement tipbefore memorial day.Plane out a new tip and if you need any help on That is the way I do it on my rods. Email me off list if you want the =help. You can call me too(419)782-5752Tony Miller From:Tony =Miller Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 12:46 PMSubject: Re:First Rod Blues DON'T GIVE UP! IT IS WORTH I have fished the Fireholewith = restoredand it's a great =feeling!You still have time to make a= tipbefore memorial =day.Plane out a new tip and if you= help onputting the wraps on after = I can help. That is the way I do it on my= (419)782-5752Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/= from jmpio@nhbm.com Tue May 1 16:20:32 2001 f41LKUS09682 Subject: Repairing Fracture Thanks for all the support I've received throughout the day in response to"First Rod Blues." Several of you suggested, properly, that I get rightback up on that horse. I intend to do so immediately. First I need todecide whether to attempt to repair the damage I did last night, or simplymove on to another rod that has already been started. I guess my decisiondepends in part on the answer to this question: I've reviewed Garrison's approach to repairing a fracture. The damage Idid to my tip section was that I bent it far enough for approximately halfof the thickness of the cane to splinter. Garrison's approach of separatingthe splinters than trying to lay each of them down in their originalpositions within the section, essentially reconstituting the rod, looks likea method that would only be suited for surgeons accustomed to reattachingbody parts. Is this really doable? Would any of you do it, or would youjust find another tip section and splice it on? (I probably don't have afine enough tip section, so I might have create about 12" of tip from rawcane). Alternatively, should I just move on to a new rod (I've already got abouthalf of the preliminary planing done on Rod #2, I was working on that onewhile I waited for hardware to arrive). Again thanks for your support and advice. from channer@frontier.net Tue May 1 17:30:02 2001 f41MU1S12213 Subject: Re: Repairing Fracture Jim;Either make a short section to scarf on to the one you broke, or makeanother tip section or 2. Don't get yourself in a sweat about using thesame culm, it's your own rod after all, you're not charging someone$1500.00 for it and it really doesn't matter all that much. Many morerods have been made with mismatched cane than wwere ever built from thesame culm.I had many of the same problems with my first rod. I didmanage to complete it as a 2 tip rod, but the butt section has severalgrowers marks in it, and one of the tips is scarfed together from 2others that luckily broke in 2 different places(be darn careful with theheat gun when straightening near the tips).John jmpio@nhbm.com wrote: Thanks for all the support I've received throughout the day in response to"First Rod Blues." Several of you suggested, properly, that I get rightback up on that horse. I intend to do so immediately. First I need todecide whether to attempt to repair the damage I did last night, or simplymove on to another rod that has already been started. I guess my decisiondepends in part on the answer to this question: I've reviewed Garrison's approach to repairing a fracture. The damage Idid to my tip section was that I bent it far enough for approximately halfof the thickness of the cane to splinter. Garrison's approach of separatingthe splinters than trying to lay each of them down in their originalpositions within the section, essentially reconstituting the rod, looks likea method that would only be suited for surgeons accustomed toreattachingbody parts. Is this really doable? Would any of you do it, or would youjust find another tip section and splice it on? (I probably don't have afine enough tip section, so I might have create about 12" of tip from rawcane). Alternatively, should I just move on to a new rod (I've already got abouthalf of the preliminary planing done on Rod #2, I was working on that onewhile I waited for hardware to arrive). Again thanks for your support and advice. from hartzell@easystreet.com Tue May 1 19:04:13 2001 f4204CS14368 f42049n05238; Subject: Re: Repairing Fracture Hi.It would seem that the best solution for you is to try the Garrison methodof putting the pieces back together. It does work., I have done it manytimes. Get some small pins and separate each little segment of the splitwiththem so that the rod looks like a porcupine with all the pins sticking out fromit. Use some slow setting glue and one by one set the pieces back the waytheywere. Wrap tightly with string. You may want to put an invisible wrap overthewhole thing, but I have never had one break again there.Good luck. And you will have learned a new skill. Make some lemonade out ofthe lemon.Ed Hartzell jmpio@nhbm.com wrote: Thanks for all the support I've received throughout the day in response to"First Rod Blues." Several of you suggested, properly, that I get rightback up on that horse. I intend to do so immediately. First I need todecide whether to attempt to repair the damage I did last night, or simplymove on to another rod that has already been started. I guess my decisiondepends in part on the answer to this question: I've reviewed Garrison's approach to repairing a fracture. The damage Idid to my tip section was that I bent it far enough for approximately halfof the thickness of the cane to splinter. Garrison's approach of separatingthe splinters than trying to lay each of them down in their originalpositions within the section, essentially reconstituting the rod, looks likea method that would only be suited for surgeons accustomed toreattachingbody parts. Is this really doable? Would any of you do it, or would youjust find another tip section and splice it on? (I probably don't have afine enough tip section, so I might have create about 12" of tip from rawcane). Alternatively, should I just move on to a new rod (I've already got abouthalf of the preliminary planing done on Rod #2, I was working on that onewhile I waited for hardware to arrive). Again thanks for your support and advice. from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Tue May 1 19:06:05 2001 f42064S14483 Tue, 1 May 2001 17:05:59 -0700 Subject: Re: clean thinner! Shawn,Have you thought of taping a rag to a long stick, and using just a littlethinner onthe rag? I suspect your thinner is doing the job, but you're having a difficulttimegetting all the "chunks" rinsed away. Harry Shawn Pineo wrote: Guys,got a problem hopefully you can help me with. I used to use bottle andballoon for varnishing but I now have moved up to a drip tube, problem I'mhaving nowis impurities in my thinner.I originally thought I had gotten dust in my spar urethane, so Ireplaced itand had the same thing. On further investigation I realized that the more Itriedcleaning my drip tube the worse it got. I looked carefully at the walls of thetubeafter rinsing with thinner and saw tiny specs clinging to the walls. I foundtheculprit!My problem now is, finding a CLEAN alternative to the Canadian Tirethinner Ihave been using. Someone mentioned recently that allot of thinners aremade fromrecycled material with impurities, they were right! Before with bottle andballoon,the problem was non existent as I always had a new dip container and freshsparurethane.Suggestions please?? Hopefully the alternatives will be available hereinNova Scotia.TIA,Shawn "Striving for perfect finish" Pineo --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from stpete@netten.net Tue May 1 19:27:50 2001 f420RnS15160 Tue, 1 May 2001 18:34:53 -0500 Subject: Re: Repairing Fracture I will be attempting this on a broken tip section in the next month. I'm glad tohear the encouraging results you have had, Ed. I suspect that my problemstemmed from A) binding too tightly, and B) using a 1:1 Epon resin:hardner mixture.Although that is the first failure of any rod joint/seam (and I'm mightytough onthem), the break occurred on one half the rod (3 strips) and shows a cleanline ofseparation for about 1-1/2" from the 3 strips that did not break. from here on out it is 2:1 ratio and heat setting the blanks. Rick C. Ed Hartzell wrote: Hi.It would seem that the best solution for you is to try the Garrisonmethodof putting the pieces back together. It does work., I have done it manytimes. Get some small pins and separate each little segment of the splitwiththem so that the rod looks like a porcupine with all the pins sticking outfromit. Use some slow setting glue and one by one set the pieces back the waytheywere. Wrap tightly with string. You may want to put an invisible wrap overthewhole thing, but I have never had one break again there.Good luck. And you will have learned a new skill. Make some lemonade outofthe lemon.Ed Hartzell jmpio@nhbm.com wrote: Thanks for all the support I've received throughout the day in responseto"First Rod Blues." Several of you suggested, properly, that I get rightback up on that horse. I intend to do so immediately. First I need todecide whether to attempt to repair the damage I did last night, orsimplymove on to another rod that has already been started. I guess mydecisiondepends in part on the answer to this question: I've reviewed Garrison's approach to repairing a fracture. The damage Idid to my tip section was that I bent it far enough for approximately halfof the thickness of the cane to splinter. Garrison's approach ofseparatingthe splinters than trying to lay each of them down in their originalpositions within the section, essentially reconstituting the rod, looks likea method that would only be suited for surgeons accustomed toreattachingbody parts. Is this really doable? Would any of you do it, or would youjust find another tip section and splice it on? (I probably don't have afine enough tip section, so I might have create about 12" of tip from rawcane). Alternatively, should I just move on to a new rod (I've already got abouthalf of the preliminary planing done on Rod #2, I was working on that onewhile I waited for hardware to arrive). Again thanks for your support and advice. from dnorl@qwest.net Tue May 1 20:08:35 2001 f4218YS16129 (63.228.44.105) Subject: Lee Freeman This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Lee I've tried to answer your e-mail but I can't get it to go through. I = web site is www.galaxymall.com/stores/outdoorsDave Lee I've tried to answer your e-mail = get it to go through. I stumbled on this web site for the Cattanach = web site is www.galaxymall.com/sto=res/outdoorsDave from lawdevil@ix.netcom.com Tue May 1 21:07:20 2001 f4227IS17305 Subject: Re: clean thinner! OK - dumb question - what is "bottle and balloon"? Mike ----- Original Message -----. I used to use bottle and balloon for varnishing but I now have moved up toa drip tube, .Shawn "Striving for perfect finish" Pineo from Canerods@aol.com Tue May 1 23:40:56 2001 f424etS19616 Subject: Re: Repairing Fracture --part1_4e.153d82e6.2820e9d0_boundary You can do it. Get a few pins and some single edged razor blades to work on aligning the powerfibers. I'd use Titebond II glue for the glue, so be fast with getting everything in place when the glue is in place. I'd overwrap the fracture with 3/0 white silk when you're all done. Don Burns --part1_4e.153d82e6.2820e9d0_boundary You can do it. Get a fewpins and some single edged razor blades to work on aligning the powerfibers. I'd use Titebond II glue for the glue, so be fast with getting everything in place when the glue is in place. I'd overwrap the fracture with 3/0 white silk when you're all done. Don Burns --part1_4e.153d82e6.2820e9d0_boundary-- from caneman@clnk.com Wed May 2 00:14:22 2001 f425ELS20122 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: First Rod bluesDate: Wed, 2 May 2001 00:06:12 -0500 OHHHHHHH... let me tell you, you are NOT the first one this has happened to.My first rod was a 4 tip rod, because it took me that long to get the ONLYtip to the rod right. Yes, I broke one with steel wool (one reason I don'tuse it at all anymore) and I over sanded one, making my 4 wt rod about a 0wt, and one was just so far out of whack that it could be nothing but a"goat beater".Don't lay down the tools... believe me, things DO get better, and thedelimna your in right now is a relatively common one... and if it makes youfeel any better, after almost 300 rods, I screwed one up beyond repairyesterday... not a tip section but a BUTT section! Now when someone that is"supposedly" so experienced as I, can totally screw up a butt section beyondrepaire and still pick up my tools and carry on, then don't think for aminute, that there's any reason you should lay down your tools.Just stick with it... things will get better! If I had quit 13 yearsago because of my mistakes, then I wouldn't be where I am today... a povertystricken, broke to the bone, rodmaker! *S* Straight splits,BobR.L. Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Cane Fly Rodshttp://members.clnk.com/caneman/images/flystuff/caneindex.htm ----- Original Message ----- Subject: First Rod blues I cannot believe the sheer stupidity of what I have done. My first rodwas finally into the stage of assembling components and finishing. Ihadalready put two coats of varnish on the blank and yesterday received inthe mail the guides and thread I wanted for this rod. I discovered thatwrapping a varnished rod is a little different and more difficult thanwrapping one without varnish. The second coat of varnish was notadheringproperly under the abuse of sliding thread and burnishing, and the wrapswere nearly impossible to get right, so I decided to remove the top coatof varnish by rubbing it out with steel wool before proceeding. It waslate at night, I was aggravated by my difficulties in attempting to wrap(I also quit smoking three days ago so I'm more than a little on edgeanyway), when I start rubbing the tip section with steel wool. Not eventhinking, I pick up the joint wrap the wool around it and start rubbing,working my way toward the tip. First time the steel wool reaches thetipof the rod, on the downstroke it catches the tip, fractures the jointabout 1/3 of the way down. I don't know why I was doing this, I amfully aware that the only way to sand or rub a tip section is to set itflat on the bench, but there I was doing it wrong and now with a brokenrod. Due to errors in planing and problems with the quality of thecane,this became, during construction a 1 tip rod. It is now a no-tip rod.Iwas so close to actually being able to cast my first rod. Those of whoremember your first one, will remember how difficult it was, every stepofthe way had to be thought out, agonized over, then finally you had tosetaside trepidation and just pick up the tools and do it. You invest somuch of yourself in that first rod. I, unfortunately, will now neverhavea first rod. The fracture is repairable, but I just cannot see thepointin repairing it. The rod would come off the bench for the first timeandalready be damaged, seems silly to do. A substantial part of me wantstoput the tools away, just forget about this ridiculous idea of buildingoverpriced, overengineered, overly delicate toys out of an oversizedgrass from the other side of the world. Another part of me was out in theshopthis morning checking on the progress of what would have been rod #2,trying to figure out if I can get it done before my Memorial Day trip toYellowstone. (I so wanted to fish my own rod on the Firehole, boy did Iwant that). Why the hell would a moderately successful, fully rational,reasonably well-adjust man like myself care so much about a freaking flyrod? Sorry, there really is no point to this post, I just had to vent, and Iknew that at least some of the people on this list would understand. from dnorl@qwest.net Wed May 2 06:15:24 2001 f42BFNS23337 (63.228.44.210) Subject: Cattanach tapes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Sorry guys tapes are all gone!Wayne maybe there is still a market. Sorry guys tapes are all =gone! market.Dave from dpeaston@wzrd.com Wed May 2 07:05:57 2001 f42C5uS23718 Subject: Re: Repairing Fracture At 05:12 PM 5/1/01 -0700, Ed Hartzell wrote:Hi.It would seem that the best solution for you is to try the Garrisonmethodof putting the pieces back together. It does work., I have done it manytimes. Get some small pins and separate each little segment of the splitwiththem so that the rod looks like a porcupine with all the pins sticking outfromit. Use some slow setting glue and one by one set the pieces back the waytheywere. Wrap tightly with string. You may want to put an invisible wrapover thewhole thing, but I have never had one break again there.Good luck. And you will have learned a new skill. Make some lemonade outofthe lemon.Ed Hartzell jmpio@nhbm.com wrote: Yes, It works for me. It is a major restoration tool. I would use theProbond glue from "Elmer" allow 24 hours drying time, sand and wrap overthe break with Pearsall's gossamer(white). When you varnish the wrap, usewarm thinned SPAR varnish. Polyurethane never gives a truly clear wrap. Askme how I know. Enjoy your first rod!! -DougDoug EastonTonawanda, NY from BigJohn47@aol.com Wed May 2 07:25:58 2001 f42CPwS24273 Subject: ferrules --part1_b2.14e4b760.282156ce_boundary does anyone know of a source or have any information on turning ferrulesout of bar stock. i would like to try and turn my own. i have some nickle silver and duronze bar stock, any info would be great. --part1_b2.14e4b760.282156ce_boundary does anyone know of asource or have any information on turning ferrules out of bar stock. i would like to try and turn my own. i have some nicklesilver and duronze bar stock, any info would be great. --part1_b2.14e4b760.282156ce_boundary-- from stoltz10@home.com Wed May 2 09:37:38 2001 f42EbcS29189 femail11.sdc1.sfba.home.com 0700 Subject: test delete This is a multi-part message in MIME format. from Canerods@aol.com Wed May 2 10:25:13 2001 f42FPCS01495 Subject: Repairing a D.S. error --part1_dd.13e25a92.282180b9_boundary All, That "Repairing Fracture" thread must have put a "hex" on me. (pun) Yesterday, I was finishing off a scarf repaired tip belonging to a nice Cross rod. A rod that belongs to a fellow rod repair person (I hope he doesn't see this post!) and so I decided that the repaired tip turned out looking so good (pat pat pat on my back) that I'd do him an extra favor and match up the missing tiptop with the one on the other tip. I found one of one of my old- stock "pear" tiptops that was a perfect match with that orginial tiptop and then I figured I'd go ahead and install it on the tip so as to mark flat one. (tip was stripped) I took one quick scrap along the newly "stretched" tip section, with my handy-dandy razorbrade, to begin rounding the "hex" of tip so I could glue on the tiptop. Oh, (bleep)! No!!! Oh, yes! About 3/8" of the end broke off. Argh! %@&* I really don't want to rescarf that tip since I had to beg you rodmakers to run off some repair pieces for me and now I've wasted one! Mike, please forgive me!! Just goes to show you that the old saying "no good deed goes unpunished" is true. Don Burns --part1_dd.13e25a92.282180b9_boundary All, That "Repairing Fracture" thread must have put a "hex" on me. (pun) Yesterday, I was finishing off a scarf repaired tip belonging to a niceCross rod. A rod that belongs to a fellow rod repair person (I hope he doesn'tsee this post!) and so I decided that the repaired tip turned out looking sogood (pat pat pat on my back) that I'd do him an extra favor and match upthe missing tiptop with the one on the other tip. I found one of one of my old- stock "pear" tiptops that was a perfect match with that orginialtiptop and then I figured I'd go ahead and install it on the tip so as to mark flat one. (tip was stripped) I took one quick scrap along the newly "stretched" tip section, with my handy-dandy razorbrade, to begin rounding the "hex" of tip so I couldglue on the tiptop. Oh, (bleep)! No!!! Oh, yes! About 3/8" of the end broke off. Argh! %@&* I really don't want to rescarf that tip since I had to beg you rodmakersto run off some repair pieces for me and now I've wasted one! Mike, please forgive me!! Just goes to show you that the old saying "no good deed goesunpunished" is true. Don Burns --part1_dd.13e25a92.282180b9_boundary-- from bhoy551@earthlink.net Wed May 2 11:03:42 2001 [208.248.194.247] (may be forged)) f42G3gS04977 Wed, 2 May 2001 12:01:16 -0400 Subject: Leonard Duracane FILETIME=[1E63EAA0:01C0D321] The list is slow, so, I cast my first real "classic" cane rod the other day, an 8-foot, five wt. Leonard Duracane, marked #1680 that is on consignment sale at the local fly shop. What a sweet casting rod! Tight loop, lots of power and delicate presentation. Slow, it bent right to the grip. Somewhat discouraging since none of my four rods so far even comes close to this one. Does anybody know anything about duracane? It's obviously impregnated, and an archive search indicated that someone else (Sharpes?) built the blanks. Does anybody know if this is a Leonard Taper? It doesn't match anything in the archives, under Leonard. But it comes close to a Payne 102. Any idea of the value of such a rod? It's on sale for $995. I'm not tempted to buy it, but I miked it and plan to build the taper when I finish the three rods that are under construction. I'll post the taper and finish details if anybody's interested. I also saved it in Hexrod under the file name LD1680, if anybody's wants to look at the stresses. Bill Hoy from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Wed May 2 12:03:32 2001 f42H3VS07808 May 2001 10:03:34 PDT Subject: Re: Leonard Duracane Got me interested, would love to see the taper on thisrod and any other info you can provide, like the guidespacing. --- Bill Hoy wrote:The list is slow, so, I cast my first real "classic" cane rod the otherday, an 8-foot, five wt. Leonard Duracane, marked #1680 that is onconsignment sale at the local fly shop. What a sweet casting rod! Tight loop, lots of powerand delicate presentation. Slow, it bent right to the grip.Somewhat discouraging since none of my four rods so far even comes close to thisone. Does anybody know anything about duracane? It'sobviously impregnated, and an archive search indicated that someone else(Sharpes?) built the blanks. Does anybody know if this is a Leonard Taper? Itdoesn't match anything in the archives, under Leonard. But it comes close to aPayne 102. Any idea of the value of such a rod? It's on sale to buy it, but I miked it and plan to build thetaper when I finish the three rods that are under construction. I'll post the taper and finish details if anybody'sinterested. I also saved it in Hexrod under the file name LD1680, ifanybody's wants to look at the stresses. Bill Hoy __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from bhoy551@earthlink.net Wed May 2 13:09:35 2001 f42I9YS10889 Wed, 2 May 2001 14:09:50 -0400 Subject: Re: Leonard Duracane FILETIME=[14A5D8E0:01C0D333] I left my notes at home, but I'll post the details after work. bill At 10:03 AM 5/2/2001 -0700, Bill Walters wrote:Got me interested, would love to see the taper on thisrod and any other info you can provide, like the guidespacing. --- Bill Hoy wrote:The list is slow, so, I cast my first real "classic" cane rod the otherday, an 8-foot, five wt.Leonard Duracane, marked #1680 that is onconsignment sale at the local flyshop. What a sweet casting rod! Tight loop, lots of powerand delicatepresentation. Slow, it bent right to the grip.Somewhat discouraging sincenone of my four rods so far even comes close to thisone. Does anybody know anything about duracane? It'sobviously impregnated, andan archive search indicated that someone else(Sharpes?) built the blanks.Does anybody know if this is a Leonard Taper? Itdoesn't match anything inthe archives, under Leonard. But it comes close to aPayne 102. Any idea of the value of such a rod? It's on sale to buy it, but I miked it and plan to build thetaper when I finish thethree rods that are under construction. I'll post the taper and finish details if anybody'sinterested. I alsosaved it in Hexrod under the file name LD1680, ifanybody's wants to lookat the stresses. Bill Hoy __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from horsesho@ptd.net Wed May 2 16:36:48 2001 f42LamS20927 Subject: Re: Leonard Duracane The Leonard Duracane rods were made from impregnated blanks imported from England and built by from what I understand was a British furnituremanufacturing co. The T&T Special Trouter series rods were also made from English imported blanks. Both the Special Trouter and Duracaneseries have brought much more than they are worth at auction. Marty Bill Walters wrote: Got me interested, would love to see the taper on thisrod and any other info you can provide, like the guidespacing. --- Bill Hoy wrote:The list is slow, so, I cast my first real "classic" cane rod the otherday, an 8-foot, five wt.Leonard Duracane, marked #1680 that is onconsignment sale at the local flyshop. What a sweet casting rod! Tight loop, lots of powerand delicatepresentation. Slow, it bent right to the grip.Somewhat discouraging sincenone of my four rods so far even comes close to thisone. Does anybody know anything about duracane? It'sobviously impregnated, andan archive search indicated that someone else(Sharpes?) built the blanks.Does anybody know if this is a Leonard Taper? Itdoesn't match anything inthe archives, under Leonard. But it comes close to aPayne 102. Any idea of the value of such a rod? It's on sale to buy it, but I miked it and plan to build thetaper when I finish thethree rods that are under construction. I'll post the taper and finish details if anybody'sinterested. I alsosaved it in Hexrod under the file name LD1680, ifanybody's wants to lookat the stresses. Bill Hoy __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from Troutgetter@aol.com Wed May 2 20:13:56 2001 f431DuS25522 Subject: Re: Repairing a D.S. error --part1_d.13f472a4.28220ac8_boundary Don, I'll make you an extra.Love,Mike --part1_d.13f472a4.28220ac8_boundary Don, I'll make you an extra.Love,Mike --part1_d.13f472a4.28220ac8_boundary-- from papa474849@yahoo.com Wed May 2 21:51:26 2001 f432pOS27310 2001 19:51:26 PDT Subject: how to remove rust stains Hello,I'm new to the list and am not a builder, but arefinisher (for fun, alas, not profit). I have a Philippson Paragon with severe black ruststains on the bamboo from the old, rusted guide feet.I found in the Rodmakers archive that oxalic acid isthe stuff to use to get this off. I got some and havejust tried it out. No luck. In fact, I seem to beremoving something else. I'm using a small piece of0000 steel wool to apply the stuff to the strippedrod. I'm getting some kind of residue on the steelwool and I'm afraid I'm removing wood, not stain. Anyone got some tips? Thanks a lot,/paul __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from mgjanik@yahoo.com Wed May 2 23:41:41 2001 f434ffS29077 2001 21:41:39 PDT Subject: Filing the node, how much is too much? I have decided that the first rod is going to be aDriggs River Special. I have flamed my culm and havestarted filing down the nodes. I had one that waspretty bad and ended up filing the s@%t out of it. Then I went back to Howell and he says not to fileflush. I almost did, will this cause a problem? Howmuch is too much? Mike Janik __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from mgjanik@yahoo.com Wed May 2 23:48:33 2001 f434mXS29303 2001 21:48:34 PDT Subject: Driggs River As I stated earlier, I am going with the Driggs for afirst rod. I have heard a lot of talk on this rodsuggesting that it is better suited to a 5wt ratherthan the listed 4. Would this be a DT or WF. Iprefer WF, even for bamboo. If I were to go with aWulf TT, which one do I go with? I am also wonderingif anyone has a guide spacing chart for this rod? Forguides, should I start with a 1/0 or 2/0 sized guide? I guess I should just be asking what the snake sizesequence is. Sorry for all the questions, I need theguidance though! Thankyou, Mike Janik __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from mgjanik@yahoo.com Thu May 3 00:09:48 2001 f4359lS29934 2001 22:09:48 PDT Subject: Trouble getting started! Ah heck! Here I am asking questions when i know darnwell its another phase of my overall procrastinationin this whole project! I'll just run down to thebasement, turn on the light, look at the bench withall the tools neatly laid out, shudder, turn off thelight, go back upstairs and watch All in the Family orsomeother late night nonsense TV. I have been doingthat for the last month! This is worse than when Iwas getting up the guts to ask my now father-in-law shake this? First it was impossible because I didn'thave the tools. Now I've got them and it still seemsimpossible. I am intimidated by the very thought ofdoing this, and yet there's that trip to the BoisBrule coming up the first weekend in June! I even putthe cart in front of the horse and bought one of thosesnazzy Bougle 1904 repros with the leather case to goon my first rod, etc... and ordered a whole bale fromDemarest fearing the worst in this latest conflictwith China... Obviously I am committed but why can'tI just get going! Sorry to bore anyone with this bit of drivel, but Ifigured if I need moral support, this is the place togo! Thanks! Mike __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from dryfly@erols.com Thu May 3 00:39:23 2001 f435dNS00594 ([207.172.116.175] helo=homeserver) Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Mike I can understand your concern and you're not alone. I owned all my toolsand cane for at least a year before I started. I had assembled graphite andfiberglass rods since the 70's, refinished a number of cane rods, andassembled cane rods from blanks I had purchased from other builders. Butstill I was hesitant to begin from scratch. I decided to sell a number ofmy graphite rods and invest the time and money to take a class. It turnedout to be the best thing I ever did. However, looking back my fear andanxiety turned out to be a lot of wasted energy, energy I could have spentbuilding. I would guess that most of the builders today started on theirown, armed with only the Garrison book as their guide. One thing I'velearned along the way is that you'll learn something with every rod youbuild. Feel free to continue to post questions to Rodmakers. This is afraternity that is eager to share and help others. So go get started, youwill make some mistakes along the way as we all continue to do (some of useven fish with are mistakes). However, you will get to a point in theprocess and say to yourself "you know I can do this, it really isn't thathard" and then you'll be the next one giving advice to another new, scaredand procrastinating beginner. Good LuckBob ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Trouble getting started! Ah heck! Here I am asking questions when i know darnwell its another phase of my overall procrastinationin this whole project! I'll just run down to thebasement, turn on the light, look at the bench withall the tools neatly laid out, shudder, turn off thelight, go back upstairs and watch All in the Family orsomeother late night nonsense TV. I have been doingthat for the last month! This is worse than when Iwas getting up the guts to ask my now father-in-law shake this? First it was impossible because I didn'thave the tools. Now I've got them and it still seemsimpossible. I am intimidated by the very thought ofdoing this, and yet there's that trip to the BoisBrule coming up the first weekend in June! I even putthe cart in front of the horse and bought one of thosesnazzy Bougle 1904 repros with the leather case to goon my first rod, etc... and ordered a whole bale fromDemarest fearing the worst in this latest conflictwith China... Obviously I am committed but why can'tI just get going! Sorry to bore anyone with this bit of drivel, but Ifigured if I need moral support, this is the place togo! Thanks! Mike __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Thu May 3 01:56:36 2001 f436uZS01960 Wed, 2 May 2001 23:56:24 -0700 Thu, 03 May 2001 06:56:23 GMT Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! FILETIME=[2AB59290:01C0D39E] I have seen this problem crop up in many of the things that make up life. Mostly in connection with cane of course because that IS my life. You are paralyzed by the fear of failure? (Oh no! Here it comes!) You are in no way expected to master the process on your first try but one thing is absolutely assured, you will never get it if you don't try. The bamboo is relatively cheap and that is all you are risking. Even if you get tho the point of using components they can all be salvaged. I still remember staring at the first tip I made(successfuly) , absolutely could not believe that the thing would work. Surely the old masters had some sort of magic that they usedto keep the thing together. It was the fourth try before I completed a rod. You know... in the days when we used mastadon tendons to bind the sections and polished the rod with yak hair from the north slope of Everest :) Every try I got a little further as I debugged the tools I made and learned to use the rest. No calling up Goldenwitch and ordering the 'Professional Rodmaker In A Box' kit(no doubt it had 'ACME' stamped on the side). All who have a sensitive aesthetic sense please do not read further The only true failure is failing to try. Don't know who to ascribe that to but...A.J. From: M Janik Subject: Trouble getting started! Ah heck! Here I am asking questions when i know darnwell its another phase of my overall procrastinationin this whole project! I'll just run down to thebasement, turn on the light, look at the bench withall the tools neatly laid out, shudder, turn off thelight, go back upstairs and watch All in the Family orsomeother late night nonsense TV. I have been doingthat for the last month! This is worse than when Iwas getting up the guts to ask my now father-in-law shake this? First it was impossible because I didn'thave the tools. Now I've got them and it still seemsimpossible. I am intimidated by the very thought ofdoing this, and yet there's that trip to the BoisBrule coming up the first weekend in June! I even putthe cart in front of the horse and bought one of thosesnazzy Bougle 1904 repros with the leather case to goon my first rod, etc... and ordered a whole bale fromDemarest fearing the worst in this latest conflictwith China... Obviously I am committed but why can'tI just get going! Sorry to bore anyone with this bit of drivel, but Ifigured if I need moral support, this is the place togo! Thanks! Mike __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from beadman@mac.com Thu May 3 07:09:23 2001 f43C9MS04666 Subject: Fwd: News from CPSC - Recall Sorry for the bandwidth, but just in case some of you may have purchased one of these...Claude Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 16:02:19 -0400From: Angela Pompey ... May 2, 2001 (301) 504-0580 Ext. 1187Release # 01-139 CPSC, Firms Announce Recall of Novelty Cigarette Lighters and PropaneTorches The following product safety recalls were conducted by firms incooperation with the CPSC. For more information about recalls, visitCPSC's web site at http://www.cpsc.gov. ,,, PRODUCT: Propane Torches - Harbor Freight Tools, of Camarillo, Calif.,is voluntarily recalling about 500 propane torches. The propane torch,measuring about 22.5 inches long, comes as a "kit" with a wand, flowvalve, turbo blast trigger, hard rubber grip and a hose that attaches to propane tanks. Writing on the hose of reads, "IN-8MM OUT-13MM BURST525PSI PRESSURE WORK 150 PSI MADE IN CHINA." The propane torch wassold ina clear plastic-wrap package with a white cardboard backing andcontained "Harbor Freight Tools Assembly and Operating Instructions."Harbor Freight Tools stores and catalogs nationwide sold these torches from May 2000 through September 2000 for about $20. Similar torchesmarked "Made in Italy," are not part of this recall. PROBLEM: The hose that comes with the propane torch can crack orburst,presenting a fire and explosion hazard. INCIDENTS/INJURIES: CPSC and Harbor Freight Tools have received tworeports of torch hoses cracking and then bursting into a flash flame.One consumer suffered third-degree burns on his legs, and a secondconsumer suffered first-degree burns to his hand and arm. WHAT TO DO: Stop using the propane torches immediately. Consumersshould call Harbor Freight Tools at (800) 444-3353 between 8 a.m. and 4:30p.m. PT Monday through Friday to obtain a refund. To see a picture of the recalled product(s) and/or to establish a link from yourweb site to this press release on CPSC's web site, link to the followingaddress: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml01/01139.html.TheU.S. ConsumerProduct Safety Commission protects the public from unreasonable risksofinjuryor death from 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency'sjurisdiction.To report a dangerous product or a product-related injury, call CPSC'shotline at(800) 638-2772 or CPSC's teletypewriter at (800) 638-8270, or visitCPSC'sweb site at http://www.cpsc.gov/talk.html. For information on CPSC'sfax-on-demandservice, call the above numbers or visit the web site athttp://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/103.html.To order a press release through fax-on-demand, call (301) 504-0051fromthe handsetof your fax machine and enter the release number. Consumers canobtainthis release andrecall information at CPSC's web site at http://www.cpsc.gov. from beaconplumb@earthlink.net Thu May 3 07:17:13 2001 f43CHCS04929 FAA23309; "rodmakers@mail.wustl.edu" Subject: Clean thinner.. Shawn, I used a drip tube in the eighties when I had 7' ceilings and I useda 3" copper tube. Decided early on not to worry about cleaning the tube.I just left the varnished blank dry in the tube along with any varnishon the walls of the tube. The whole set up was warmed by light bulbs anddried quickly. I only opened the tube when removing rods and I would doall three sections at once. Not knowing very much about thinners, I usedtemperature to control viscocity of the varnish. Worked well for awhile, but wasteful, and I missed the visual kick of watching sectionscome out of the varnish. Less is more - stop cleaning. Willis from tausfeld@frontiernet.net Thu May 3 08:36:52 2001 f43DaqS07301 Thu, 3 May 2001 09:36:43 -0400 claiming to be "oemcomputer" 2001 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Mike, How about a little peer pressure: Come on Mike, plane some cane, just a little, it won't kill ya... come onwe all do it... tom ausfeldRochester, NY ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Trouble getting started! Ah heck! Here I am asking questions when i know darnwell its another phase of my overall procrastinationin this whole project! I'll just run down to thebasement, turn on the light, look at the bench withall the tools neatly laid out, shudder, turn off thelight, go back upstairs and watch All in the Family orsomeother late night nonsense TV. I have been doingthat for the last month! This is worse than when Iwas getting up the guts to ask my now father-in-law shake this? First it was impossible because I didn'thave the tools. Now I've got them and it still seemsimpossible. I am intimidated by the very thought ofdoing this, and yet there's that trip to the BoisBrule coming up the first weekend in June! I even putthe cart in front of the horse and bought one of thosesnazzy Bougle 1904 repros with the leather case to goon my first rod, etc... and ordered a whole bale fromDemarest fearing the worst in this latest conflictwith China... Obviously I am committed but why can'tI just get going! Sorry to bore anyone with this bit of drivel, but Ifigured if I need moral support, this is the place togo! Thanks! Mike __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Thu May 3 08:45:32 2001 f43DjVS07762 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! --part1_17.152117c2.2822baf2_boundary All, Speaking of trouble getting started. I think it's long overdue that buy a set of planing forms. Anyone have a set that they're selling? Don Burns --part1_17.152117c2.2822baf2_boundary All, Speaking of trouble getting started. I think it's long overdue that buy aset of planing forms. Anyone have a set that they're selling? Don Burns --part1_17.152117c2.2822baf2_boundary-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu May 3 09:27:41 2001 f43EReS09618 Subject: Fwd: FW: Humor: Bill & George ride the train together/joke delete --part1_d0.151a1682.2822c4cb_boundary Guys,This is a great joke. Hope you enjoy it. Usual disclaimer as well. If you opened this and were warned in the subject field to delete you have no reason to be POed.Bret --part1_d0.151a1682.2822c4cb_boundary May 2001 09:51:35 2000 May 2001 09:51:22 -0400 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 03 May 2001 08:49:57 -0500 Subject: Fwd: FW: Humor: Bill & George ride the train together "Kim Armstrong" ,"Katrina Pope" ,"Linda Reiter" Subject: Fwd: FW: Humor: Bill & George ride the train together Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:19:24 GMT 132.233.48.205(Norton AntiVirus for Internet Email Gateways 1.0) ;Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:19:27 0000 (GMT) (5.5.2653.19) Subject: FW: Humor: Bill & George ride the train together This is the best Clinton/Bush joke yet!!-Tom Bill Clinton and George Bush are riding on a train together and sittingacross from them are a spectacular looking blonde and a frightfully awfullooking fat lady. After several minutes of the trip, the train passesthrough a dark tunnel, and the unmistakable sound of a slap is heard.When they leave the tunnel, Clinton has a big red slap mark on his cheek. (1) The blonde thought - "That rascal Clinton wanted to touch me and bymistake, he must have put his hand on the fat lady, who in turn must haveslapped his face" (2) The fat lady thought - "That dirty old Bill Clinton laid his hands onthe blonde and she smacked him". (3) Bill Clinton thought - "George put his hand on that blonde and bymistake she slapped me". (4) George Bush thought - "I hope there's another tunnel soon so I can smackClinton again". --part1_d0.151a1682.2822c4cb_boundary-- from bhoy551@earthlink.net Thu May 3 09:38:43 2001 f43EcfS10285 Thu, 3 May 2001 10:38:56 -0400 Subject: Leonard Duracane Taper FILETIME=[C891E960:01C0D3DE] Here's the taper for the Leonard Duracane, 8' 2/2. Averaged over threeflats.The rod is impregnated so nothing was deducted for varnish 1 .0745 .08410 .10115 .11420 .13025 .14430 .15735 .17140 .18945 .202Ferrule @ 48"50 .21655 .23260 .24265 .25570 .26675 .28580 .29485 .310 Guide Spacing from tip5"9-3/4"15"21-3/8"27-5/8"34-1/4"41-1/8"60-1/2"71-1/4" stripper Dark Green wraps w/no tippingStrap & Ring HookkeeperNS winding check6" cigar gripDownlocking aluminium reel seat with cedar insert. Coarse thread w/foot holder incorporated into the ring (no separate ring)The ferrules, guides and buttcap are blued, but not the reel seat locking hardware. Tom McDonnell sent me a post that very well describes this rod: ""Leonard duracanes were built in England under contract and were made to alevel that was less cosmetic than the standards, Catskills, etc. Leonarddeveloped these tapers but they were completely unlike their high end rods,as the tapers were slower and flexed more into the butt. They were theintroductory bamboo with the hopes of cultivating buyers for the realLeonards. The construction of these rods was quite good, and from what I'veheard from a reliable source these duracanes forced the English makers toimprove their traditional offerings to match the performance of theLeonards.The duracane style is essentially what Orvis uses now, impregnation, sloweractions, fair cosmetics and hardware, etc. Hope this helps. Tom McDonnell "" WHile it may be the same style as the modern Orvis rods, the blank construction is much nicer than any Orvis I've seen. It really casts like a dream, very powerful and forgiving of a pathetic caster like me. Bill Hoy from canazon@mindspring.com Thu May 3 10:04:34 2001 f43F4XS11446 Subject: re: trouble starting This is a multi-part message in MIME format. mike,waynes's way of filing nodes made it really simple. just file the =node till yu can run your fingernail over it without catching it. now =you're ready to split your strips. if you have been following the thread =on nunley's no- brainer splitting method you'll go through the whole bale = worry about the other stuff, spacing and guides and varnish. you'll have =plenty to think about as you plane.i built my tools as i needed them, right now i'm finishing up my =drying cabinet and am getting started on the dip tube because last nite =while the bus was steamrollin along, i became the proud papa of a 6 foot =4weight, screen door slammin rod! thank you bob and srg. the whole =family came down for the delivery, and i brought the little darlin out =this morning. she's beautiful.now go do it! oh yeah, i hope to christen this baby in some crystal clear canadian =waters when the bus rolls into fergus mike, way = nodes made it really simple. just file the node till yu can run your = over it without catching it. now you're ready to split your strips. if = been following the thread on nunley's no-brainer splitting method you'll = and plane. don't worry about the other stuff, spacing and guides and = you'll have plenty to think about as you plane. needed them, right now i'm finishing up my drying cabinet and am getting = on the dip tube because last nite while the bus was steamrollin along, i = and srg. the whole family came down for the delivery, and i brought the = darlin out this morning. she's beautiful. it! oh yeah, i hope to christen this baby = crystal clear canadian waters when the bus rolls into fergus from rextutor@about.com Thu May 3 10:04:40 2001 f43F4dS11469 (NPlex 5.1.050) 2001 08:02:42 -0700 Subject: Milward binder. I started my bamboo rod building with abinder. I do restores and had sections that were splitting. In the past , I wrapping equipment , just carefully cleaning up glue after. I got the binder working yesterday but am having trouble getting it to function properly. Where I am stuck is that the hand crank wheel won't pull the polycord . The wheel just spins. No friction. If I hand push the pulleys with the thread then all 4 pulley wheels turn and the binder basicly works. (I have to fine tune the tension on the cotton thread). I have tried roughing the crank wheel to gain friction. I have increased tension on the chord . I can;t imagine i need to shorted the chord as it is very difficult to get off and on. Any ideas ? Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from dannyt@frisurf.no Thu May 3 11:15:02 2001 f43GF1S14753 Thu, 3 May 2001 18:14:49 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook- Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Re: Milward binder. This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3071758487_23231_MIME_Part Try some rubber band in the groove.danny Subject: Milward binder. I started my bamboo rod building with a binder. I do restores and hadsections that were splitting. In the past , I have bound with mywrapping equipment , just carefully cleaning up glue after. I got thebinder working yesterday but am having trouble getting it to functionproperly. Where I am stuck is that the hand crank wheel won't pullthe polycord . The wheel just spins. No friction. If I hand push thepulleys with the thread then all 4 pulley wheels turn and the binderbasicly works. (I have to fine tune the tension on the cottonthread). I have tried roughing the crank wheel to gain friction. Ihave increased tension on the chord . I can;t imagine i need toshorted the chord as it is very difficult to get off and on.Any ideas ? Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com --MS_Mac_OE_3071758487_23231_MIME_Part Re: Milward binder. Try some rubber band in the groove.danny Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 09:07:50 -0600 Subject: Milward binder. I started my bamboo rodbuilding wi=th a binder. I do restores and had wrapping equipment , just carefully cleaning up glue after. I got the binder working yesterday but am having trouble getting it to function properly. Where I am stuck is that the hand crank wheel won't pull the polycord . The wheel just spins. No friction. If I hand push the pulleys with the thread then all 4 pulley wheels turn and the binder basicly works. (I have to fine tune the tension on the cotton thread). I have tried roughing the crank wheel to gain friction. I have increased tension on the chord . I can;t imagine i need to shorted the chord as it is very difficult to get off and on. Any ideas ? Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com --MS_Mac_OE_3071758487_23231_MIME_Part-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu May 3 11:32:39 2001 f43GWcS15497 2001 09:32:40 PDT Subject: Re: how to remove rust stains i have found, and it would be intresting to hear someof the oldtimers comment on this, that some of theproduction rods had some gooey,stickey stuff under thewraps, that is difficult to get off... and i assumewas applied to facilitate wrapping. i don't know whyelse it would be there. maybe this is what you haverun into. i only thot of this because i was discussingit with a rod restoration guy this passed weekend. timothy --- Paul Ausick wrote:Hello,I'm new to the list and am not a builder, but arefinisher (for fun, alas, not profit). I have a Philippson Paragon with severe black ruststains on the bamboo from the old, rusted guidefeet.I found in the Rodmakers archive that oxalic acid isthe stuff to use to get this off. I got some andhavejust tried it out. No luck. In fact, I seem to beremoving something else. I'm using a small piece of0000 steel wool to apply the stuff to the strippedrod. I'm getting some kind of residue on the steelwool and I'm afraid I'm removing wood, not stain. Anyone got some tips? Thanks a lot,/paul __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at greatpriceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from piscator@macatawa.org Thu May 3 11:37:26 2001 f43GbPS15838 Subject: Re: how to remove rust stains Go to an irrigation supply house (Toro, Rainbird) and buy a pint of thestuff they sell homeowners to remove rust stains from decks and houses. I'mtold it is mostly citric acid, but man does it work on decks! Never triedit on a rod. Brian from dryfly@erols.com Thu May 3 12:26:11 2001 f43HQAS17785 ([207.172.206.127] helo=erols.com) Subject: Re: how to remove rust stains Also turns a flamed rod into a blond rod and reduces the rod by one lineweight:) Sorry couldn't resist poking fun at using an acid on a bamboo rod Brian Creek wrote: Go to an irrigation supply house (Toro, Rainbird) and buy a pint of thestuff they sell homeowners to remove rust stains from decks and houses. I'mtold it is mostly citric acid, but man does it work on decks! Never triedit on a rod. Brian from flytyr@southshore.com Thu May 3 12:40:45 2001 f43HeiS18465 f43H8oV04168 Subject: Re: Milward binder. Rex,I put a large rubber band on my crank pulley.Found one that fit it well and put some doublesided tape in the pulley groove first then therubber band.It works real well for me. Not seeing your binderI really can't suggest any thing else at thispoint.The only other thing might be that your belt hasbeen impregnated with a lot of glue and making itreal smooth causing it to slip.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rex Tutor wrote: I started my bamboo rodbuilding with a binder. I dorestores and hadsections that weresplitting. In the past , Ihave bound with mywrapping equipment , justcarefully cleaning up glueafter. I got thebinder working yesterday butam having trouble getting itto functionproperly. Where I am stuckis that the hand crank wheelwon't pullthe polycord . The wheeljust spins. No friction. IfI hand push thepulleys with the thread thenall 4 pulley wheels turn andthe binderbasicly works. (I have tofine tune the tension on thecottonthread). I have triedroughing the crank wheel togain friction. Ihave increased tension onthe chord . I can;t imaginei need toshorted the chord as it isvery difficult to get offand on.Any ideas ? Sign up for a free AboutEmail account athttp://About.com from Mark_Dyba@hotmail.com Thu May 3 14:27:21 2001 f43JRKS23020 Thu, 3 May 2001 12:27:12 -0700 Subject: fishing yellowstone area FILETIME=[0DED9EF0:01C0D407] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. If any rodmakers plan to fish the yellowstone area this August and would =like to spend a day fishing with another long time fly fisher please let =me know. I have fished this area, particularily Henry's Lake for many =years and I would enjoy fishing and visiting with another rod builder. If any rodmakers plan to fish the = this August and would like to spend a day fishing with another long time = fisher please let me know. I have fished this area, particularily = builder. from nobler@satx.rr.com Thu May 3 14:48:58 2001 f43JmvS24301 f43JmsdQ015824; Subject: Re: how to remove rust stains Gunsmiths use a product from Brownell's in Montezuma, Ia. that will dissolverust on a steel surface. I've had excellent luck with it, and if the rustisn't too old, there is no etching of the steel. I've not tried it on cane,but the rust color goes away when it's applied !GMA from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu May 3 14:55:11 2001 f43JtAS24709 2001 12:55:11 PDT Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! i second the motion! do it one step at a time. workout each step as you move thru the process. don'tfocus on a step in the process prior to your arrivalat that step. just take it one step at a time. forexample: don't worry about whether to dip your rod orbrush your rod or whether to wrap prior or post guidewrapping if you have yet to saw the culm in 2 pcs andsplit it up. timothy --- Bob Williams wrote:Mike I can understand your concern and you're not alone. I owned all my toolsand cane for at least a year before I started. Ihad assembled graphite andfiberglass rods since the 70's, refinished a numberof cane rods, andassembled cane rods from blanks I had purchased fromother builders. Butstill I was hesitant to begin from scratch. Idecided to sell a number ofmy graphite rods and invest the time and money totake a class. It turnedout to be the best thing I ever did. However,looking back my fear andanxiety turned out to be a lot of wasted energy,energy I could have spentbuilding. I would guess that most of the builderstoday started on theirown, armed with only the Garrison book as theirguide. One thing I'velearned along the way is that you'll learn somethingwith every rod youbuild. Feel free to continue to post questions toRodmakers. This is afraternity that is eager to share and help others. So go get started, youwill make some mistakes along the way as we allcontinue to do (some of useven fish with are mistakes). However, you will getto a point in theprocess and say to yourself "you know I can do this,it really isn't thathard" and then you'll be the next one giving adviceto another new, scaredand procrastinating beginner. Good LuckBob ----- Original Message -----From: "M Janik" Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 1:09 AMSubject: Trouble getting started! Ah heck! Here I am asking questions when i knowdarnwell its another phase of my overallprocrastinationin this whole project! I'll just run down to thebasement, turn on the light, look at the benchwithall the tools neatly laid out, shudder, turn offthelight, go back upstairs and watch All in theFamily orsomeother late night nonsense TV. I have beendoingthat for the last month! This is worse than whenIwas getting up the guts to ask my nowfather-in-law shake this? First it was impossible because Ididn'thave the tools. Now I've got them and it stillseemsimpossible. I am intimidated by the very thoughtofdoing this, and yet there's that trip to the BoisBrule coming up the first weekend in June! I evenputthe cart in front of the horse and bought one ofthosesnazzy Bougle 1904 repros with the leather case togoon my first rod, etc... and ordered a whole balefromDemarest fearing the worst in this latest conflictwith China... Obviously I am committed but whycan'tI just get going! Sorry to bore anyone with this bit of drivel, butIfigured if I need moral support, this is the placetogo! Thanks! Mike __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at greatpriceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from canazon@mindspring.com Thu May 3 22:05:03 2001 f44352S06573 Subject: re: fishing yellowstone This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Are you ridin the Bus or what? :>)mike p;mike from rextutor@about.com Thu May 3 22:17:20 2001 f443HKS07020 (NPlex 5.5.015.3) 2001 20:15:24 -0700 Subject: Milward binder resolved Thanks for all your great help on the binder.A rubber band on the drive pulley did the trick. I will get a chance to use it, because I have some bamboo and started my forms while I was thinking about the binder. I used my wrapping board to repair the vintage split bamboo sections for restoration which is too bad but a test of the rubber band on a dowel indicates that it will work.Appreciate the large and useful response. Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from measter1@home.com Fri May 4 00:17:21 2001 f445HKS09173 Subject: Morgan Handmill Attn. Rodmakers,Arthritus forcing me to part with my handmill. Contact me offlist fordetails.Regards,Markmeaster1@home.com from timklein@qwest.net Fri May 4 01:58:48 2001 f446wlS10679 (63.225.242.154) Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! I had exactly the same problem when I got started. I would go out to thegarage and fiddle around with the tools, organize, re-organize, plan, etc..Everything except start on the rod. Don't worry about it too much Mike, I'membarrassed to say how long it took me to get around to actually completingmy first rod. I still have the problem occasionally when starting a rod. The problem is just that the task at hand is so daunting. The half an houror so you've got right now just doesn't seem to be worth using towards the60 hours or so it'll take to finish that first rod. It doesn't seem likeenough time to really make a dent in this humongous task ahead of you, soyou waste the half hour on something worthless like sipping a cup of coffeeand shaving arm hairs to make sure your plane blade hasn't mysteriouslydulled over it's long period of non-use. What finally gets me going when this hapens is to break the rodmaking stepsdown to the smallest possible thing you can think of. going to use on the next rod and, if I'm up to it, extend the check splitall the way down the culm. This is a very short easy task to accomplish, andI don't really have any trouble making myself do this small task. Somenights, I'll complete the task and stop. Other nights, making myself startis the hard part and I find that I'll just keep working for a while. I might plan to split the culm in half, then thirds the next night. I don'tplan any farther than this next step because I really don't know whetherI'll stop when I'm done or whether I'll keep working once I've started. AsI'm cleaning up from tonight's work, I plan my next step; maybe splittingout enough strips for a butt section. I use this tactic all the way through the rod, making sure to plan my nextaction while cleaning up from the current step. Having a small amount ofwork to do when I step into the garage keeps me from thinking too much; Ijust go out there to perform that small task. Each task is no more of acommitment than sacrificing arm hair, so I'm able to accomplish somethingthat ultimatley whittles that 40 or 50 hours down to 20, 10, 5, ..... Next thing you know, your assignment for tomorrow is to lawn cast yourfirstrod! ---Tim from Troy.Miller@BakerOilTools.com Fri May 4 07:17:13 2001 f44CHDS13740 [204.253.245.34] (may be forged)) (5.5.2653.19) Subject: RE: Trouble getting started! Take a bow for an excellent motivational speech, Tim. You really made adent in my "fear of failure" psyche. I'M GONNA GO FINISH MAKING MY FORMSAND GET STARTED SPLITTING THIS WEEKEND! Thanks -- TAM -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! I had exactly the same problem when I got started. I would go out to thegarage and fiddle around with the tools, organize, re-organize, plan, etc..Everything except start on the rod. Don't worry about it too much Mike, I'membarrassed to say how long it took me to get around to actually completingmy first rod. I still have the problem occasionally when starting a rod. The problem is just that the task at hand is so daunting. The half an houror so you've got right now just doesn't seem to be worth using towards the60 hours or so it'll take to finish that first rod. It doesn't seem likeenough time to really make a dent in this humongous task ahead of you, soyou waste the half hour on something worthless like sipping a cup of coffeeand shaving arm hairs to make sure your plane blade hasn't mysteriouslydulled over it's long period of non-use. What finally gets me going when this hapens is to break the rodmaking stepsdown to the smallest possible thing you can think of. going to use on the next rod and, if I'm up to it, extend the check splitall the way down the culm. This is a very short easy task to accomplish, andI don't really have any trouble making myself do this small task. Somenights, I'll complete the task and stop. Other nights, making myself startis the hard part and I find that I'll just keep working for a while. I might plan to split the culm in half, then thirds the next night. I don'tplan any farther than this next step because I really don't know whetherI'll stop when I'm done or whether I'll keep working once I've started. AsI'm cleaning up from tonight's work, I plan my next step; maybe splittingout enough strips for a butt section. I use this tactic all the way through the rod, making sure to plan my nextaction while cleaning up from the current step. Having a small amount ofwork to do when I step into the garage keeps me from thinking too much; Ijust go out there to perform that small task. Each task is no more of acommitment than sacrificing arm hair, so I'm able to accomplish somethingthat ultimatley whittles that 40 or 50 hours down to 20, 10, 5, ..... Next thing you know, your assignment for tomorrow is to lawn cast yourfirstrod! ---Tim from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri May 4 09:45:45 2001 f44EjiS18101 Subject: First Rod Blues Revisited Want to thank you all again for getting me over my little rodmaking "crisis"the other day. I have repaired the fracture my clumsiness caused. Thesplinters went back together fairly well, glued it all up with Titebond IIExtend (the long open time version of Titebond II). Although the repair isnearly invisible, and the repaired section seems to be stronger than thesurrounding cane (there is just a little bit of a slightly flat stretch whenI bend the joint) I went ahead and wrapped it in white silk. I havefinished wrapping the guides on the tip section, it's ready for varnish.Tonight I'll install reelseat and grip, tomorrow morning probably I'll wrapthe last of the guides and the hookkeeper on the butt section, and it willbe ready for varnish by Saturday night. Not only is this rod going to beready for Memorial Day, there is a good chance I will be able to take itwith me to San Francisco in a little over a week. I won't be doing anyfishing there, but I am planning on checking out the Golden Gate CastingClub, which seems like an ideal place to test cast my new rod. Theencouragement received from all you folks lit a fire under my backside, Ihave also started working feverishly on rod #2, hoping that I can also haveit done by memorial day. That way not only can I fish a rod of my ownmaking on the Firehole on opening day, but so can my father-in-law who isgoing with me. Thanks again, everyone. If any of you folks are in theBoise, Idaho area (either permanently of visiting), I'd love to commiserate,speculate and procrastinate with any of you. James Piotrowski from mtbrown@sprynet.com Fri May 4 11:52:34 2001 f44GqXS23069 Subject: decals This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi all: Working on several restoration's for my personal collection. =Any info on a source for Montague and HI decals to replace the damaged =ones?Mike = Montague and HI decals to replace the damaged ones?Mike from mrmac@tcimet.net Fri May 4 12:19:37 2001 f44HJaS24182 KAA17456 Subject: steel wool I've seen a couple references to 6/0 steel wool, yet I can't find anyonearound here carrying anything finer than 4/0. Any suggestions where 6/0can be had? thanks mac from Canerods@aol.com Fri May 4 15:23:21 2001 f44KNKS00357 Subject: Re: steel wool --part1_8e.1519745c.282469ad_boundary Mac, Let me know if you find get an answer to this. Don Burns --part1_8e.1519745c.282469ad_boundary Mac, Let me know if you find get an answer to this. Don Burns --part1_8e.1519745c.282469ad_boundary-- from hartzell@easystreet.com Fri May 4 18:37:34 2001 f44NbXS05620 f44NbXD27045; Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Tim,Very good advice. Hemingway always stopped before he ran out of wordsso hehad something to start on the next day.Ed Tim Klein wrote: I had exactly the same problem when I got started. I would go out to thegarage and fiddle around with the tools, organize, re-organize, plan, etc..Everything except start on the rod. Don't worry about it too much Mike, I'membarrassed to say how long it took me to get around to actuallycompletingmy first rod. I still have the problem occasionally when starting a rod. The problem is just that the task at hand is so daunting. The half an houror so you've got right now just doesn't seem to be worth using towards the60 hours or so it'll take to finish that first rod. It doesn't seem likeenough time to really make a dent in this humongous task ahead of you, soyou waste the half hour on something worthless like sipping a cup of coffeeand shaving arm hairs to make sure your plane blade hasn't mysteriouslydulled over it's long period of non-use. What finally gets me going when this hapens is to break the rodmakingstepsdown to the smallest possible thing you can think of. going to use on the next rod and, if I'm up to it, extend the check splitall the way down the culm. This is a very short easy task to accomplish,andI don't really have any trouble making myself do this small task. Somenights, I'll complete the task and stop. Other nights, making myself startis the hard part and I find that I'll just keep working for a while. I might plan to split the culm in half, then thirds the next night. I don'tplan any farther than this next step because I really don't know whetherI'll stop when I'm done or whether I'll keep working once I've started. AsI'm cleaning up from tonight's work, I plan my next step; maybe splittingout enough strips for a butt section. I use this tactic all the way through the rod, making sure to plan my nextaction while cleaning up from the current step. Having a small amount ofwork to do when I step into the garage keeps me from thinking too much; Ijust go out there to perform that small task. Each task is no more of acommitment than sacrificing arm hair, so I'm able to accomplish somethingthat ultimatley whittles that 40 or 50 hours down to 20, 10, 5, ..... Next thing you know, your assignment for tomorrow is to lawn cast yourfirstrod! ---Tim from Canerods@aol.com Fri May 4 20:10:11 2001 f451AAS06970 Subject: Bounced? --part1_9.14d73a48.2824acd4_boundary All, Is it quiet or have I been bounced? Try thinking of a political, TV or hollyweird person, then think of what kind of rodmakers they'd be. IE Bill O'Reilly - "I make fly rods only - this is a no spin zone!" Don Burns --part1_9.14d73a48.2824acd4_boundary All, Is it quiet or have I been bounced? Try thinking of a political, TV or hollyweird person, then think of whatkind of rodmakers they'd be. IE Bill O'Reilly - "I make fly rods only - this is a no spin zone!" Don Burns --part1_9.14d73a48.2824acd4_boundary-- from piscator@macatawa.org Fri May 4 20:35:18 2001 f451ZHS07466 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'd never getdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the fly rod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used to yoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made the perfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted the wallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets, busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dipping booth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the better partof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I think of myfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being a writer waskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, even whenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from channer@frontier.net Fri May 4 21:17:58 2001 f452HvS08390 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Good Grief!!! I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making the formsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done until itwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta get offyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I been waitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'd never getdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the fly rod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used to yoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made the perfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted the wallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets, busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dipping booth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the better partof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I think of myfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being a writer waskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, even whenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat May 5 08:29:46 2001 f45DTjS14942 Sat, 5 May 2001 10:29:05 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboo with abutterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had to use asharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^)Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making the formsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done until itwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta get offyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I been waitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'd nevergetdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the fly rod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used toyoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted the wallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets, busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the betterpartof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I think ofmyfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being a writerwaskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, even whenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sat May 5 08:35:52 2001 f45DZpS15223 GAA26816 GAA26723 (5.5.2650.21) "'nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca'" Subject: RE: Trouble getting started! in my day we split the cane with our teeth and planed by scraping with ourfinger nails - rock hadn't been invented yet! Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 7:33 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Trouble getting started! Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboo with abutterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had to use asharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^)Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making theformsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done until itwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta get offyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I been waitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'd nevergetdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the fly rod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used toyoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted thewallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets, bustedahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the betterpartof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I think ofmyfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being a writerwaskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, evenwhenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from dryfly@erols.com Sat May 5 08:54:33 2001 f45DsVS15657 ([207.172.206.114] helo=homeserver) Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! At least you had teeth and finger nails. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Trouble getting started! in my day we split the cane with our teeth and planed by scraping with ourfinger nails - rock hadn't been invented yet! Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 7:33 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Trouble getting started! Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboowith a butterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had touse asharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^) Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making theformsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done untilitwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta getoffyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I beenwaitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'dnever getdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the flyrod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get usedto yoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. FirstIorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools.Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted thewallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets,busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gaswaterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took thebetter partof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when Ithink of myfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being awriter waskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, evenwhenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of yoursystemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sat May 5 08:57:41 2001 f45DveS15883 GAA00828 0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: FW: Trouble getting started! must be the pits having to gum your cane! Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 7:00 AM nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.caCc: rodmakersSubject: Re: Trouble getting started! At least you had teeth and finger nails. ----- Original Message -----From: "Coffey, Patrick W" Cc: "rodmakers" Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 9:35 AMSubject: RE: Trouble getting started! in my day we split the cane with our teeth and planed by scraping withourfinger nails - rock hadn't been invented yet! Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 7:33 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Trouble getting started! Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboowith a butterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had touse asharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^) Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making theformsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done untilitwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta getoffyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I beenwaitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'dnever getdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the flyrod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get usedto yoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. FirstIorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools.Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted thewallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets,busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gaswaterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took thebetter partof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when Ithink of myfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being awriter waskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day,evenwhenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of yoursystemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from mgjanik@yahoo.com Sat May 5 11:00:08 2001 f45G07S17634 2001 09:00:09 PDT Subject: Storing a planing form 989078409=:1206" --0-1804289383-989078409=:1206 No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I was wondering what some of you guys dowith your planing form when it isn't in use. I don't have a damp basement oranything, but I just thought that I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench when I am not using them. Mike ---------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets& more!--0-1804289383- 989078409=:1206 No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I was wondering don't have a damp basement or anything, but I just thought that I should dosomething more with my forms than just let them sit on top of the benchwhen I am not using them. MikeDo YouYahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bidon cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more!--0-1804289383- 989078409=:1206-- from Lazybee45@aol.com Sat May 5 11:05:46 2001 f45G5jS17869 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form either large Zip tie loops or Twine loops. My planing form is Maple so not as heavy as steel, but heavier hanging loops should be no problem and there are several types of hooks intended for tools and bicycles and such that should work just dandy. Or you could fit a bracket to the wall and make a special shelf.Anyone else?mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat May 5 11:18:06 2001 f45GI5S18106 Sat, 5 May 2001 09:18:00 -0700 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form Hi Mike,I just stand mine in the corner of the shop. But I dooil them down quite thoroughly. Louisiana weather will rustanything. I learned that the hard way. Harry M Janik wrote: I was wondering what some of you guys do with your planingform when it isn't in use. from mgjanik@yahoo.com Sat May 5 11:19:57 2001 f45GJuS18302 2001 09:19:58 PDT Subject: Hardy Reels 989079598=:80384" --0-499812273-989079598=:80384 I hope this is ok, I have absolutely nothing to gain personally from this. Whilesearching the web I have come across a UK website that sells Hardy reels atwhatever the going exchange rate happens to be when you place your order. When I do the currency conversion it comes out to much less than what theyare selling for over here. If anyone is interested please email me off list, orif there is a consensus that this sort of thing is ok, I will be more than happyto go ahead and post it. Mike ---------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets& more!--0-499812273- 989079598=:80384 I hope this is ok, I have absolutely nothing to gain personally from sells Hardy reels at whatever the going exchange rate happens to be when interested please email me off list, or if there is a consensus that this sort MikeDo You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bidon cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more!--0-499812273-989079598=:80384-- from flytyr@southshore.com Sat May 5 11:33:05 2001 f45GX4S18552 f45GYKV01409 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started!Now ?? uphill It is starting to get deep and I don't mean the snow. Shawn, how can you walkuphillboth ways. Would not one way be downhill.Now I am neing a smart you know what. List is slow so I thought I would startsomething.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Shawn Pineo wrote: Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboo with abutterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had to use asharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^)Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making theformsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done until itwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta get offyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I been waitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'd nevergetdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the fly rod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used toyoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted thewallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets, bustedahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the betterpartof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states, butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I think ofmyfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being a writerwaskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, evenwhenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from flytyr@southshore.com Sat May 5 11:34:30 2001 f45GYTS18652 f45GZjV01523 Subject: Re: Trouble getting started! Phew, Deeper yet.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com "Coffey, Patrick W" wrote: in my day we split the cane with our teeth and planed by scraping with ourfinger nails - rock hadn't been invented yet! Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ----------From: Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 7:33 AM Cc: RodmakersSubject: Re: Trouble getting started! Oh yeah,well when I first started we had to cut our own bamboo with abutterknife and walk up hill barefoot in snow both ways to get it, we had to useasharpened rock to plane with too! Beat that one ;^)Shawn channer wrote: Good Grief!!!I thought I was the worst procrastinator in the entire world, but Imanaged to get my first rod done in 3 months, including making theformsand building the shop to make them in. I built my forms and split androughed the strips under the open sky, didn't get the shop done until itwas time to finish plane. What it all boils down to is you gotta get offyour duff and get to work, the elves won't do it for you.( I been waitin they haven't lifted a finger yet)John Brian Creek wrote: I had the same problem and was complaining to Wayne C. that I'dnever getdone. He suggested I just spend an hour a night working on the flyrod.Best advice anyone ever gave me. You fall into a rythym, get used toyoursurroundings, become intimate with your tools and materials. First Iorganized and sharpened alot. Then I fiddled with jigs and tools. Then Isorted and organized my notes and tapers, built shelves, made theperfectsanding block, hung some cool posters (thanks Chuck!), painted thewallswhite so as to reflect more light, put in new lights and outlets,busted ahole in the floor for the dip tube, realized hole was next to gas waterheater, cussed a blue streak and busted a new hole. Built a dippingbooth,and somewhere in there I finished my first rod. Only took the betterpartof 18 months. I still love to fish it, and have done so in 13 states,butit's pretty ugly compared to the rods I make now. Still, when I thinkof myfavorite fishing trips since, that rod is in most memories. Some famous writer once said that the toughest part of being awriter waskeeping your ass planted in a chair for several hours each day, evenwhenyou were writing poorly. You have to get the junk out of your systemeventually, so just get down to it. Don't worry, you'll get there. Brian from flytyr@southshore.com Sat May 5 11:47:06 2001 f45Gl5S19070 f45GmLV02377 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form I put up some heavy pegboard on one wall in mysmall shop. That is where I store my metal andwood forms. Keeps them out of the way till I wantto use them. I also have my binder and heat treatoven mounted on the same wall. Would be glad tosend you a shot of the wall with the pegboard.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of you guys do with yourplaning form when it isn't in use. I don't havea damp basement or anything, but I just thoughtthat I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench whenI am not using them. Mike -------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stufflike Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more! from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sat May 5 11:56:46 2001 f45GukS19408 JAA04691 JAA21275 0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: splitter I think that splitter from herters? that was on ebay and on the list a week orso ago, takes the place of ones hands when splitting with the cane heldeither in a vice or between ones legs. It looks like you put both wheels in thecrack and lever the plit either to the right of left to direct the split, ie downthe middle with no run out. This might be a useful tool for some one to make. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from horsesho@ptd.net Sat May 5 13:21:24 2001 f45ILNS20834 sender ) Subject: Re: Storing a planing form --------------B3106A02624220FCE51513F7 I use it in the kitchen as a combination nutcracker / paperweight. Marty M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I was wondering what some of youguys do with your planing form when it isn't in use. I don't have adamp basement or anything, but I just thought that I should dosomething more with my forms than just let them sit on top of thebench when I am not using them. Mike -----------------------------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews BandTickets & more! --------------B3106A02624220FCE51513F7 I use it in the kitchen as a combination nutcracker / paperweight. MartyM Janik wrote:No, it hasn't come to thisyet,but I was wondering what some of you guys do with your planing form when just thought that I should do something more with my forms than just letthem sit on top of the bench when I am not using them. Mike Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click andbid on cool stuff like DaveMatthews Band Tickets & more! --------------B3106A02624220FCE51513F7-- from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat May 5 13:54:22 2001 f45IsLS21487 2001 11:54:23 PDT Subject: Re: Storing a planing form you're a man after my own heart! how about a date! timothy --- none wrote:I use it in the kitchen as a combination nutcracker/ paperweight. Marty M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of youguys do with your planing form when it isn't inuse. I don't have adamp basement or anything, but I just thought thatI should dosomething more with my forms than just let themsit on top of thebench when I am not using them. Mike -----------------------------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff likeDave Matthews BandTickets & more! ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat May 5 16:46:55 2001 f45LksS24436 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form --part1_103.2ced858.2825cebd_boundary I just store mine flat on top of one of my benches or if I am working on a gun and need botj benches I store it in a crawl space on top of some 2x4s.B --part1_103.2ced858.2825cebd_boundary I just store mine flat ontop of one of my benches or if I am working on a gun and need botj benches I store it in a crawl space on top of some2x4s.B --part1_103.2ced858.2825cebd_boundary-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat May 5 16:59:33 2001 f45LxVS24768 Subject: Re: decals --part1_22.158f4a08.2825d1ba_boundary can anyone give me the price for a cortland 444 weitgh forward floating line #6? Thanks.Bret --part1_22.158f4a08.2825d1ba_boundary can anyone give me theprice for a cortland 444 weitgh forward floating line Bret --part1_22.158f4a08.2825d1ba_boundary-- from anglport@con2.com Sat May 5 19:00:41 2001 f4600eS27259 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form Jeez, you guys call yourselves rodmakers? Why (or when) would it have to bePUT away????Art At 11:49 AM 05/05/2001 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I put up some heavy pegboard on one wall in mysmall shop. That is where I store my metal andwood forms. Keeps them out of the way till I wantto use them. I also have my binder and heat treatoven mounted on the same wall. Would be glad tosend you a shot of the wall with the pegboard.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of you guys do with yourplaning form when it isn't in use. I don't havea damp basement or anything, but I just thoughtthat I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench whenI am not using them. Mike -------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stufflike Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more! from horsesho@ptd.net Sat May 5 19:09:55 2001 f4609sS27555 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form Garden is full of weeds, grass is growing fast, fish are rising. Marty Art Port wrote: Jeez, you guys call yourselves rodmakers? Why (or when) would it have tobePUT away????Art At 11:49 AM 05/05/2001 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I put up some heavy pegboard on one wall in mysmall shop. That is where I store my metal andwood forms. Keeps them out of the way till I wantto use them. I also have my binder and heat treatoven mounted on the same wall. Would be glad tosend you a shot of the wall with the pegboard.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of you guys do with yourplaning form when it isn't in use. I don't havea damp basement or anything, but I just thoughtthat I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench whenI am not using them. Mike -------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stufflike Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more! from flytyr@southshore.com Sat May 5 19:13:20 2001 f460DJS27787 f460E6V02370;Sat, 5 May 2001 19:14:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form With a 5 1/2' wide shop I have to put things away in order to have room tofinish a rod but it goes right back on the bench when I am through with gluing. I have the pegboard wall and a workbench with just enough space to walkbetween them.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Art Port wrote: Jeez, you guys call yourselves rodmakers? Why (or when) would it have tobePUT away????Art At 11:49 AM 05/05/2001 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I put up some heavy pegboard on one wall in mysmall shop. That is where I store my metal andwood forms. Keeps them out of the way till I wantto use them. I also have my binder and heat treatoven mounted on the same wall. Would be glad tosend you a shot of the wall with the pegboard.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of you guys do with yourplaning form when it isn't in use. I don't havea damp basement or anything, but I just thoughtthat I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench whenI am not using them. Mike -------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stufflike Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more! from anglport@con2.com Sat May 5 19:19:08 2001 f460J6S28035 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form Sounds like we're all livin' the same life!Art At 07:14 PM 05/05/2001 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:With a 5 1/2' wide shop I have to put things away in order to have room tofinish a rod but it goes right back on the bench when I am through withgluing. I have the pegboard wall and a workbench with just enough space to walkbetween them.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Art Port wrote: Jeez, you guys call yourselves rodmakers? Why (or when) would it have tobePUT away????Art At 11:49 AM 05/05/2001 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote:I put up some heavy pegboard on one wall in mysmall shop. That is where I store my metal andwood forms. Keeps them out of the way till I wantto use them. I also have my binder and heat treatoven mounted on the same wall. Would be glad tosend you a shot of the wall with the pegboard.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I waswondering what some of you guys do with yourplaning form when it isn't in use. I don't havea damp basement or anything, but I just thoughtthat I should do something more with my formsthan just let them sit on top of the bench whenI am not using them. Mike -------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stufflike Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more! from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat May 5 20:08:20 2001 f4618JS29067 Sat, 5 May 2001 22:07:39 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: decals --------------371328F65014EDA4D255C017 At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of a newprinterpaper (I think it was printer paper??) that made realistic decals. If you couldfindthis stuff, which if I remember correctly was like the little decals used forplasticmodels, you know, the soak and apply kind with clear background, it wouldsimply be amatter of scanning an original, cleaning it up in Photoshop (or equivalent) andprinting it.If you do manage to track down a source for this paper I would love to hearaboutit, best of luck,Shawn Mike and Melissa Brown wrote: Hi all: Working on several restoration's for my personal collection. Anyinfo ona source for Montague and HI decals to replace the damaged ones?Mike --------------371328F65014EDA4D255C017 At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of a new printer paper(I think it was printer paper??) that made realistic decals. If you couldfind this stuff, which if I remember correctly was like the little decalsused for plastic models, you know, the soak and apply kind with clearbackground,it would simply be a matter of scanning an original, cleaning it up inPhotoshop (or equivalent) and printing it. love to hear about it, best of luck, ShawnMike and Melissa Brown wrote: Hi Any info on a source for Montague and HI decals to replace the damagedones?Mike --------------371328F65014EDA4D255C017-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat May 5 20:10:29 2001 f461ASS29230 Sat, 5 May 2001 22:09:48 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Storing a planing form --------------1C2997B63184C87315BBB23A Always use them!! This prevents rust both on the forms and on you (Rustnever sleepsas Neil Young said);^)Shawn M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I was wondering what some of you guysdo withyour planing form when it isn't in use. I don't have a damp basement oranything,but I just thought that I should do something more with my forms than justlet themsit on top of the bench when I am not using them. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews BandTickets &more! --------------1C2997B63184C87315BBB23A Always use them!! This prevents rust both on the forms and on you (Rustnever sleeps as Neil Young said) ;^) ShawnM Janik wrote:No, it hasn't come to thisyet,but I was wondering what some of you guys do with your planing form when just thought that I should do something more with my forms than just letthem sit on top of the bench when I am not using them. Mike Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click andbid on cool stuff like DaveMatthews Band Tickets & more! --------------1C2997B63184C87315BBB23A-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sat May 5 20:16:46 2001 f461GjS29512 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Used book dealers?? Anyone ever dealt with a used book search agency called "RGW Used BookSearch" ???JUst curious as I got an e mail from them today. Shawn from cdn@ticon.net Sat May 5 22:27:43 2001 f463RgS01437 (216.145.216.161) Subject: varmor on wraps HI folks,To those of you that use Pratt and Lambert or do you thin and to what ratio for doingwraps?(I'm using Pearsals gossamer)TIA.Ned from cdn@ticon.net Sat May 5 22:30:14 2001 f463UES01617 (216.145.216.161) Subject: varmor wraps Sorry- forgot to mention that I'm not usingcolor preserver. from richjez@enteract.com Sat May 5 23:18:16 2001 f464IFS02547 Subject: Re: Used book dealers?? --=====================_2189188==_.ALT Geese I got 2. Is it time for an email to abuse @ Rich Jezioro At 09:20 PM 5/5/01, Shawn Pineo wrote:Anyone ever dealt with a used book search agency called "RGW Used Book Search" ???JUst curious as I got an e mail from them today. Shawn *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):> --=====================_2189188==_.ALT Geese I got 2. Is it time for an email to abuse @ Rich Jezioro Anyone ever dealt with a used book searchagency called "RGW Used Book Search" ???JUst curious as I got an e mail from them today. Shawn *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_2189188==_.ALT-- from rextutor@about.com Sun May 6 07:48:08 2001 f46Cm7S07885 (NPlex 5.1.050) Subject: Re: decals I would think a small clear mailing address Transfer paper might reverse the image.Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from vze27n6j@verizon.net Sun May 6 08:14:29 2001 f46DETS09806 ; id IAA127865632 Subject: Re: decals This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I think Micro-Mark carries it. 800-225-1066 They also have a web site =www.micromark.com Frank Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 10:11 PMSubject: Re: decals At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of a =new printer paper (I think it was printer paper??) that made realistic =decals. If you could find this stuff, which if I remember correctly was =like the little decals used for plastic models, you know, the soak and =apply kind with clear background, it would simply be a matter of =scanning an original, cleaning it up in Photoshop (or equivalent) and = If you do manage to track down a source for this paper I would love = Hi all: Working on several restoration's for my personal =collection. Any info on a source for Montague and HI decals to replace =the damaged ones?Mike They also have a web site www.micromark.com Frank ----- Original Message ----- Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 = PMSubject: Re: decals= At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of a new printer = think it was printer paper??) that made realistic decals. If you could = this stuff, which if I remember correctly was like the little decals = plastic models, you know, the soak and apply kind with clear = would simply be a matter of scanning an original, cleaning it up in = = Hi = ones?Mike from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sun May 6 08:33:55 2001 f46DXsS09960 GAA17936 GAA23140 (5.5.2650.21) "'richjez@enteract.com'" Subject: RE: Used book dealers?? rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu I got two of these yesterday, my question is how did they get our emailaddresses? Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 9:19 PM Subject: Re: Used book dealers?? Geese I got 2. Is it time for an email to abuse @ Rich Jezioro At 09:20 PM 5/5/01, Shawn Pineo wrote: Anyone ever dealt with a used book search agency called "RGW UsedBook Search" ???JUst curious as I got an e mail from them today. Shawn *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @/||/____/||_________________________________________|| /\ ))):> > >))):> from ggwillia@bellsouth.net Sun May 6 09:50:27 2001 f46EoQS12216 Subject: Unsubscribe Please unsubscribe, thank you. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun May 6 10:36:28 2001 f46FaRS12756 Sun, 6 May 2001 12:35:46 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: decals --------------F616F9FBACF861C32259E441 Not a problem REx, with Photoshop you can flip the image backwards so itprintscorrectly if need be.Shawn Rex Tutor wrote: I would think a small clear mailing address would work. (avery5667)Transfer paper might reverse the image. Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com --------------F616F9FBACF861C32259E441 Not a problem REx, with Photoshop you can flip the image backwards so itprints correctly if need be. ShawnRex Tutor wrote: I would think a small clear mailing address would (avery 5667)Transfer paper might reverse the image. Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com --------------F616F9FBACF861C32259E441-- from stpete@netten.net Sun May 6 12:31:07 2001 f46HV6S14134 Sun, 6 May 2001 12:31:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Storing a planing form If I stored my planing forms in the kitchen, I GUARANTEE it would beused as a nutcracker... only it would be the wife doing the cracking. Rick C. none wrote: I use it in the kitchen as a combination nutcracker / paperweight.Marty M Janik wrote: No, it hasn't come to this yet, but I was wondering what some of youguys do with your planing form when it isn't in use. I don't have adamp basement or anything, but I just thought that I should dosomething more with my forms than just let them sit on top of thebench when I am not using them. Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave MatthewsBand Tickets & more! from stuart.rod@gmx.de Sun May 6 12:45:08 2001 f46Hj7S14583 Subject: Guide programm Good Evening / Morning A couple of weeks ago somebody sent a list of 3 or 4 sites related toFlyrod actions, it was part of a discussion on the book about themechanics of flyrods. I had to redo my hard disc last week and lost anice guide spacing programm that was on one of the mentioned sites. Hasanybody still got the message with the links. Can you let me have it? Thankyou Stuart from baconrod@gsmrinc.com Sun May 6 13:02:51 2001 f46I2oS15111 Subject: Re: Leonard Duracane Taper Bill.The original Leonard Duracanes were developed by Hap Mills and Ted Simroe in 1975. They them modified the tapers in 1981. The taper you measured is from the later (1981) modification. Some builders think that Farlow (Sharpe) of Scotland built the blanks, a Co. in England built all the duracane blanks from day one.The original blanks for the 8" were run to 54" long so they could make a 8' (5 wtg) I have the original tapers if you want them.Best Hal Bacon from Lazybee45@aol.com Sun May 6 13:11:19 2001 f46IBIS15822 Subject: Re: Used book dealers?? In a message dated 5/6/01 8:39:33 AM Central Daylight Time, Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com writes: i don't think it was from the list, because i didn't get one. That or my credit rating is not good enough ;-)mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from beadman@mac.com Sun May 6 13:11:38 2001 f46IBbS16083 Subject: Fwd: Re: New taper design program needs your input! Is this the one?Claude From: "taylor hogan" Subject: Re: New taper design program needs your input!Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:37:57 -0500X-Priority: 3 Sender: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu I have dug up what I referenced in an earlier email regarding available workon various aspects of the physics of fly fishing. I hope this helps anyoneinterested. A web site regarding a company that produces software that simulates thedynamics of objects. A fly rod is one examplehttp://www.intrinsics.com/Demo/Flyrod.html The classic article regarding the physics of fly castinghttp://space.mit.edu/~kommers/fly.html The references for the above articlehttp://space.mit.edu/~kommers/refs.html Empiral Rod testinghttp://www3.wcu.edu/~mbrown/summary.html The results of the above testhttp://www3.wcu.edu/~mbrown/spreaddata.html A very good site, regarding the mathematics of fly fishinghttp://users.cybercity.dk/~bcc25154/home.html ----- Original Message -----From: "Mark A. Tripp" Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 12:21 AMSubject: New taper design program needs your input! Fellow bamboo junkies: I am beginning the design phase for a new taper creation softwareprogram.I am fairly new to the world of cane rods, and have built only a handful,but have considerable experience in software design and programming. Since I am committed to a user-centric product, I would like to solicitinput from the list as to the specifications for the program. I have manyof my own ideas, particularly as far as the user interface goes, but needtohear from those who know about taper design best -- list members! Theproject will take a while to implement. I plan on doing complete designbefore writing code, and would like you all to be a part of the designprocess. So, here is your chance to give input from the ground up. What wouldyoulike to see? What specific features should it have? Should the Garrisonmath be the starting point, or is there other methodology that is anoption?You get the idea! I don't know if it is appropriate to clog up the list,but the synergy that occurs when this group gets to discussing "stuff" isinvaluable. If there is a consensus that it is inappropriate for thelist,please email me directly. If there is enough interest, I'll look in tosetting up a forum with listbot or some such service. I look forward to reading any and all ideas. Regards, Mark Tripp from Canerods@aol.com Sun May 6 15:16:32 2001 f46KGVS24203 Subject: hock brades --part1_d2.62e98a9.28270b15_boundary All, Darrell Lee is selling Hock blades on ebay for the English Stanleys/Record planes. Price seems right (at the moment) if you can use this blade. I need the "USA" blades myself. Don Burns --part1_d2.62e98a9.28270b15_boundary All, Darrell Lee is selling Hock blades on ebay for the EnglishStanleys/Record planes. Price seems right (at the moment) if you can use this blade. Ineed the "USA" blades myself. Don Burns --part1_d2.62e98a9.28270b15_boundary-- from Canerods@aol.com Sun May 6 15:23:03 2001 f46KN2S25048 Subject: Re: hock brades --part1_27.1519655a.28270c9a_boundary Oops. Try Hock blades not brades. --part1_27.1519655a.28270c9a_boundary Oops. Try Hock blades --part1_27.1519655a.28270c9a_boundary-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun May 6 15:43:05 2001 f46Kh4S26994 Subject: Ray Gould's eyes only --part1_49.b05903d.2827114c_boundary Ray,I have not seen you on the list lately and I was just wondering how you were doing and how Christen was. I sent her an e-mail awhile back and was hoping she got it as I had not gotten a reply. I pray that allis well. Tell her my wife and I were thinking about her. Bret --part1_49.b05903d.2827114c_boundary Ray, lately and I was just wondering how back and Bret --part1_49.b05903d.2827114c_boundary-- from dickay@alltel.net Sun May 6 19:41:49 2001 f470fmS21287 srv.alltel.net Sun, 6 May 2001 19:41:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Guide programm Stuart, These were references sent to the List by Taylor Hogan in referenceto a new program being develpoed by someone. Maybe this is what your werethinking of? Hope it helps.Dick Fuhrman I have dug up what I referenced in an earlier email regarding available workon various aspects of the physics of fly fishing. I hope this helps anyoneinterested. A web site regarding a company that produces software that simulates thedynamics of objects. A fly rod is one examplehttp://www.intrinsics.com/Demo/Flyrod.html The classic article regarding the physics of fly castinghttp://space.mit.edu/~kommers/fly.html The references for the above articlehttp://space.mit.edu/~kommers/refs.html Empiral Rod testinghttp://www3.wcu.edu/~mbrown/summary.html The results of the above testhttp://www3.wcu.edu/~mbrown/spreaddata.html A very good site, regarding the mathematics of fly fishinghttp://users.cybercity.dk/~bcc25154/home.html ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Guide programm Good Evening / Morning A couple of weeks ago somebody sent a list of 3 or 4 sites related toFlyrod actions, it was part of a discussion on the book about themechanics of flyrods. I had to redo my hard disc last week and lost anice guide spacing programm that was on one of the mentioned sites. Hasanybody still got the message with the links. Can you let me have it? Thankyou Stuart from MasjC1@aol.com Sun May 6 21:49:15 2001 f472nES24568 Subject: Re: decals --part1_64.dca7f48.28276718_boundary Shawn, Micro-Mark carries it. www.micromark.com or 1-800-225-1066 Mark Cole --part1_64.dca7f48.28276718_boundary Shawn, 1-800-225-1066 Mark Cole --part1_64.dca7f48.28276718_boundary-- from MasjC1@aol.com Sun May 6 22:05:24 2001 f4735MS25119 Subject: Mike in Houston --part1_75.144edebf.28276ae5_boundary Mike, I've lost your e-mail address. How is your May schedule? My 5 days in China turned into 3 weeks. I'm back but, can't find your e-mail address. I you are still interested in getting together please let me know. Mark Cole --part1_75.144edebf.28276ae5_boundary Mike, I've lost your e-mail address. How is your May schedule? My 5 days inChina turned into 3 weeks. I'm back but, can't find your e-mail address. I youare still interested in getting together please let me know. Mark Cole --part1_75.144edebf.28276ae5_boundary-- from mgjanik@yahoo.com Mon May 7 00:54:05 2001 f475s4S28118 2001 22:53:56 PDT Subject: Buying cane 989214836=:56432" --0-1957747793-989214836=:56432 I am ready to purchase 10-20 culms. I have called Demarest and decided towait to find a business address to have it sent to. In the meantime I havebeen surfing around and wondering what all my options are. I thought that I'dask the advice of the list. Is there anyone here in lower Michigan that wouldlike to sell some cane? I have the money to do this now, but the longer I wait,the more time my wife has to change her mind (she's hinted already). I'd bewilling to drive out for it as long as you are within 1-2hours from Kalamazoo. Barring that option, is there another dealer out there that I should be lookingat? Thanks! PS: Thanks for the encouraging words, I started rough planing tonight! ---------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bid on cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets& more!--0-1957747793- 989214836=:56432 meantime I have been surfing around and wondering what all my options money to do this now, but the longer I wait, the more time my wife has to option, is there another dealer out there that I should be lookingat?Thanks!PS: Thanks for the encouraging words, I started rough planingtonight!Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - Click and bidon cool stuff like Dave Matthews Band Tickets & more!--0-1957747793-989214836=:56432-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Mon May 7 04:03:43 2001 f4793gS00411 Mon, 7 May 2001 02:03:39 -0700 Subject: Nortwest Bamboo Rodmakers Gathering FILETIME=[9BC71420:01C0D6D4] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi All, While you were trying to figure out how to store your planing forms,some of us were figuring out how to use them. The gathering was a great success in my opinion. The demonstrationswerevery helpful as they cleared-up a lot of the gray areas left from readingabout how it is done. I particularly enjoyed meeting people from the list.It is nice to have a face to go with a name. I was surprised by the numberof people that came but, are not affiliated with the list. I think there area lot more of us out there than I realized. The gathering was very well organized. Take a bow, Kevin Callaway andChris Obuchowski. I would like to thank Ed Hartzell and A. J. Thramer fortheir help in clarifying my muddy-waters. One more item I want to mention very carefully. I saw the very bestmanufactured guides I have ever seen. Absolutely perfect proportions andready to wrap. Contact me off-list and I will share what I know. Regards to all,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com name="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" filename="Richard R. Dutcher.vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Dutcher;Richard;R.FN:Richard R. DutcherNICKNAME:DickORG:Trumpet Methodology, Inc.TEL;WORK;VOICE:206- 660-1705ADR;WORK:;;P. O. Box 349;Brinnon;Washington;98320- 0349;USALABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:P. O. Box349=3D0D=3D0ABrinnon, =Washington 98320- 0349=3D0D=3D0AUSAURL;WORK:http://www.geckotech.com/dutcherEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:dutcher@msn.comREV:20010507T090252ZEND:VCARD from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 7 06:15:19 2001 f47BFIS01693 Subject: Re: Buying cane --=====================_66278439==_.ALT The cane,service, and price I received from Imperial Bamboo was excellent. The cane is better than most I have seen. I know it sounds like hype. but theses culms are so much more straight, I don't spend half the time I used to. Shipping to a residential street was not bad at all. 4 culms was $740. I don't know how that compares.Bob At 10:53 PM 5/6/2001 -0700, M Janik wrote: I am ready to purchase 10-20 culms. I have called Demarest and decided to wait to find a business address to have it sent to. In the meantime I have been surfing around and wondering what all my options are. I thought that I'd ask the advice of the list. Is there anyone here in lower Michigan that would like to sell some cane? I have the money to do this now, but the longer I wait, the more time my wife has to change her mind (she's hinted already). I'd be willing to drive out for it as long as you are within 1-2hours from Kalamazoo. Barring that option, is there another dealer out there that I should be looking at? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_66278439==_.ALT The cane,service, and price I received from Imperial Bamboo wasexcellent. The cane is better than most I have seen. I know it soundslike hype. but theses culms are so much more straight, I don't spend halfthe time I used to. Shipping to a residential street was not bad at all.4 culms was $740. I don't know how that compares. BobAt 10:53 PM 5/6/2001 -0700, M Janik wrote:I am ready to purchase 10-20 this now, but the longer I wait, the more time my wife has to change her option, is there another dealer out there that I should be lookingat? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_66278439==_.ALT-- from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 7 06:18:22 2001 f47BILS01860 May 2001 07:17:37 -0400 Subject: duplicate messages --=====================_66460234==_.ALT Is anyone else experiencing duplicate messages from the list? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_66460234==_.ALT Is anyone else experiencing duplicate messages from the list? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_66460234==_.ALT-- from Mvpff@aol.com Mon May 7 06:57:14 2001 f47BvES02427 Subject: Unsubscribe Please unsubscribeThanks, Mark from channer@frontier.net Mon May 7 07:28:59 2001 f47CSwS03132 Subject: Re: Buying cane Bob;I sure hope you meant 40 culms instead of 4.John Downandacross Rods wrote: The cane,service, and price I received from Imperial Bamboo wasexcellent. The cane is better than most I have seen. I know it soundslike hype. but theses culms are so much more straight, I don't spendhalf the time I used to. Shipping to a residential street was not badat all. 4 culms was $740. I don't know how that compares.Bob At 10:53 PM 5/6/2001 -0700, M Janik wrote: I am ready to purchase 10-20 culms. I have called Demarest anddecided to wait to find a business address to have it sent to. Inthe meantime I have been surfing around and wondering what all myoptions are. I thought that I'd ask the advice of the list. Isthere anyone here in lower Michigan that would like to sell somecane? I have the money to do this now, but the longer I wait, themore time my wife has to change her mind (she's hinted already).I'd be willing to drive out for it as long as you are within1-2hours from Kalamazoo. Barring that option, is there anotherdealer out there that I should be looking at? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from mwflytyer@hotmail.com Mon May 7 08:36:57 2001 f47DauS05411 Mon, 7 May 2001 06:36:54 -0700 Mon, 07 May 2001 13:36:54 GMT Subject: problem with Cattenaugh video, vol 1 FILETIME=[C78C6990:01C0D6FA] folks: I bought the 2 vol video tape set of Wayne Cattenaugh's this pastweekend at Cabela's bargain basement cave in their Sidney, NE store. Two problems crept up: #1: the vol 1 tape is blank, but has sound#2: since I bought it on clearance, I can't return it!! Does anyone have wayne's email address -or- a suggestions on how to burn a good copy of the tape to replace my defective one? thanks! cheers,Steve SchweitzerPartner & Co-FounderThe Global Fly Fisherhttp://globalflyfisher.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from jmpio@nhbm.com Mon May 7 09:34:03 2001 f47EY2S07607 Subject: Finishing trouble Well, my first rod is now actually a fly rod. It's not entirely done, stillneeds some work on the varnish, and it is not entirely pretty (visible gluelines in at least three spots, about 1" each, and not the best caneselection) but it is indeed a flyrod. Thanks for all your help andencouragement. As you may recall, a week ago I was ready to throw thethingin the scrap heap. A week later, I'm planning on putting a line on ittonight an doing a little test casting. But I'm still having trouble withwrapping and finishing. Wrapping. I'm using Pearsall's gossamer silk, because I love the colors.But I'm having a hell of a time getting smooth wraps. Seems like everyother wrap manages to get a cross-over during burnishing. I don't rememberhaving this trouble back in my days of using nylon thread on graph**eblanks. I want to to use silk, but am wondering if I just need to find alarger thread size or what? Any advice please? Finishing. Having a couple of problems here. I had to repair a fracturedtip. Wrapped the repaired area with white YLI silk. The guides are allwrapped with olive Pearsall's gossamer. I used Minwax Helmsman SparUrethane. I did not thin it, but I did warm it up. I applied with a sablebrush, got full coverage and, I thought, full penetration. The wraps lookedthoroughly soaked in varnish. The white silk went totally translucent,almost transparent, the olive was also nearly transparent when wet. Afterthat first coat dried, the white silk turned white again, or rather sort ofmottled white and translucent. The olive silk is just a little bit mottled.Should I have thinned the varnish as well as warming it? How do I gettransparent repair wraps? And how do I avoid the mottled look? TIA for all your help. from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Mon May 7 09:38:07 2001 f47Ec6S08004 Subject: Re: duplicate messages Hi Bob,Ithink that started a year or so ago, when the default was changed fromreply to reply to all. At least I don't remember it hapening before then. Ifsomeone uses the reply to all, it sends you an email direct and also one fromthe list server. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com bob@downandacross.com wrote: Is anyone else experiencing duplicate messages from the list? Bob Maulucci ================================================== http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmaking http://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more 218 Wallace Avenue Buffalo, NY 14216 716-836-8297 home 716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.net bob@downandacross.com from Canerods@aol.com Mon May 7 11:16:50 2001 f47GGnS14845 Subject: Re: problem with Cattenaugh video, vol 1 --part1_d8.5ebb1d8.28282440_boundary Steve, The tape might not be blank on the video - if there's a anti-copy signal maybe your VCR can't handle it. I've had problems viewing reatal tapes on one of our VCR's and the answer always seems to be run it on a different brand VCR. Don Burns --part1_d8.5ebb1d8.28282440_boundary Steve, The tape might not be blank on the video - if there's a anti-copy signal maybe your VCR can't handle it. I've had problems viewing reatal tapeson one of our VCR's and the answer always seems to be run it on a differentbrand VCR. Don Burns --part1_d8.5ebb1d8.28282440_boundary-- from KlingB@health.missouri.edu Mon May 7 14:54:25 2001 [161.130.112.185] (may be forged)) f47JsOS23708 (5.5.2653.19) Subject: RE: Finishing trouble I've used the same varnish and find it takes 2 coats, sometimes 3, beforethe wraps remain tranparent. Depends on how thick the coats are. But itdoeswork. Barry -----Original Message----- Subject: Finishing trouble Well, my first rod is now actually a fly rod. It's not entirely done, stillneeds some work on the varnish, and it is not entirely pretty (visible gluelines in at least three spots, about 1" each, and not the best caneselection) but it is indeed a flyrod. Thanks for all your help andencouragement. As you may recall, a week ago I was ready to throw thethingin the scrap heap. A week later, I'm planning on putting a line on ittonight an doing a little test casting. But I'm still having trouble withwrapping and finishing. Wrapping. I'm using Pearsall's gossamer silk, because I love the colors.But I'm having a hell of a time getting smooth wraps. Seems like everyother wrap manages to get a cross-over during burnishing. I don't rememberhaving this trouble back in my days of using nylon thread on graph**eblanks. I want to to use silk, but am wondering if I just need to find alarger thread size or what? Any advice please? Finishing. Having a couple of problems here. I had to repair a fracturedtip. Wrapped the repaired area with white YLI silk. The guides are allwrapped with olive Pearsall's gossamer. I used Minwax Helmsman SparUrethane. I did not thin it, but I did warm it up. I applied with a sablebrush, got full coverage and, I thought, full penetration. The wraps lookedthoroughly soaked in varnish. The white silk went totally translucent,almost transparent, the olive was also nearly transparent when wet. Afterthat first coat dried, the white silk turned white again, or rather sort ofmottled white and translucent. The olive silk is just a little bit mottled.Should I have thinned the varnish as well as warming it? How do I gettransparent repair wraps? And how do I avoid the mottled look? TIA for all your help. from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 7 15:06:35 2001 f47K6XS24469 May 2001 16:06:31 -0400 Subject: Bales vs. culms --=====================_98157290==_.ALT Those were $170 bales not culms. Sorry for the confusion, although I know you are all smart enough to see right through that one. How much would you have to charge to make a rod out of a $170 culm? Probably what a new big name rod costs. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_98157290==_.ALT Those were $170 bales not culms. Sorry for the confusion, although I knowyou are all smart enough to see right through that one. How much wouldyou have to charge to make a rod out of a $170 culm? Probably what a newbig name rod costs. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_98157290==_.ALT-- from horsesho@ptd.net Mon May 7 16:37:58 2001 f47LbvS28886 sender ) Subject: Re: Bales vs. culms --------------C4BA304759666525D90E7496 Glad you straightened that out Bob. I was about to start brokering mysupply. Marty Bob Maulucci wrote: Those were $170 bales not culms. Sorry for the confusion, although Iknow you are all smart enough to see right through that one. How muchwould you have to charge to make a rod out of a $170 culm? Probablywhat a new big name rod costs. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --------------C4BA304759666525D90E7496 Glad you straightened that out Bob. I was about to start brokering mysupply.MartyBob Maulucci wrote: the confusion, although I know you are all smart enough to see right throughthat one. How much would you have to charge to make a rod out of a $170culm? Probably what a new big name rod costs. BobMaulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherlinelathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867- 0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --------------C4BA304759666525D90E7496-- from channer@frontier.net Mon May 7 16:51:15 2001 f47LpES29449 Subject: Re: Finishing trouble Jim; act as a color preserver, some brands more than others, varnish willnot.John jmpio@nhbm.com wrote: Well, my first rod is now actually a fly rod. It's not entirely done, stillneeds some work on the varnish, and it is not entirely pretty (visible gluelines in at least three spots, about 1" each, and not the best caneselection) but it is indeed a flyrod. Thanks for all your help andencouragement. As you may recall, a week ago I was ready to throw thethingin the scrap heap. A week later, I'm planning on putting a line on ittonight an doing a little test casting. But I'm still having trouble withwrapping and finishing. Wrapping. I'm using Pearsall's gossamer silk, because I love the colors.But I'm having a hell of a time getting smooth wraps. Seems like everyother wrap manages to get a cross-over during burnishing. I don'trememberhaving this trouble back in my days of using nylon thread on graph**eblanks. I want to to use silk, but am wondering if I just need to find alarger thread size or what? Any advice please? Finishing. Having a couple of problems here. I had to repair a fracturedtip. Wrapped the repaired area with white YLI silk. The guides are allwrapped with olive Pearsall's gossamer. I used Minwax Helmsman SparUrethane. I did not thin it, but I did warm it up. I applied with a sablebrush, got full coverage and, I thought, full penetration. The wraps lookedthoroughly soaked in varnish. The white silk went totally translucent,almost transparent, the olive was also nearly transparent when wet. Afterthat first coat dried, the white silk turned white again, or rather sort ofmottled white and translucent. The olive silk is just a little bit mottled.Should I have thinned the varnish as well as warming it? How do I gettransparent repair wraps? And how do I avoid the mottled look? TIA for all your help. from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 7 16:53:29 2001 f47LrSS29650 Subject: Re: Finishing trouble Yeah, a quart of spar (I use Man O War) will be better and go a long way. At 03:50 PM 5/7/2001 -0600, you wrote:Jim; act as a color preserver, some brands more than others, varnish willnot.John from rextutor@about.com Mon May 7 18:33:11 2001 f47NXAS02662 (NPlex 5.1.050) Subject: Re: duplicate messages Yes But I get duplicates such as the one Ijust read twice from Bob just viewing and I got 2 of them. THat doesn'thappen all the time but it does happen. Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from thogan@rochester.rr.com Mon May 7 20:01:13 2001 f4811DS04290 f480xHM26577 Subject: YAM This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Yet another mistake.The art/craft of building bamboo fly rods never ceases to amaze me.Just when I think I have learned everything, and my next rod will be the =perfect one, I am humbled by some error. My latest I thought I would =share with anyone who cares. I could not figure out why planing was going rough. I had just tuned up =my plane, gotten a "scary sharp" edge, but I was gouging. Just when I =was about to throw the plane, I examined it, and the throat was wide =open. Closing this to just a hair open made the plane once again work =smoothly. I will never forget the experience, and hope that my next rod, =well will be the perfect one. Taylor Yet another mistake.The art/craft of building bamboo fly = ceases to amaze me.Just when I think I have learned = next rod will be the perfect one, I am humbled by some error. My latest = thought I would share with anyone who cares. I could not figure out why planing was = I had just tuned up my plane, gotten a "scary sharp" edge, but I was = Just when I was about to throw the plane, I examined it, and the throat = open. Closing this to just a hair open made the plane once again work = I will never forget the experience, and hope that my next rod, well will = perfect one. Taylor from caneman@clnk.com Mon May 7 20:25:49 2001 f481PmS04800 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Mon, 7 May 2001 19:53:58 -0500 Subject: planing forms This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Anyone need a set of forms? email me offlist for details. Bob details. Bob from drinkr@voicenet.com Mon May 7 21:00:22 2001 f4820LS05647 default) (209.71.51.130) Subject: 8 1/2 Guide Spacing This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I was working out guide spacing for an 8 * ' 8wt. Salmon Taper in advanceconstruction. I wanted to attach the guide to the ferrule "Garrison" andhollow build by scooping out between the webs. Normally I adjust the guidesto the rod after construction but because of this construction techniqueobviously I wont be able to fit the guides as usual. Any suggestion forsuccessful spacing for my parameters would be greatly appreciated. Thanksin advanceDavid Rinker name="winmail.dat" filename="winmail.dat" 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 from fquinchat@locl.net Mon May 7 21:02:16 2001 f4822FS05822 Subject: Re: decals This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Shawn, I had good luck with decal supplies from Micromark using my ink jet =printer. Dennis Bertram-----Original Message-----From: Shawn Pineo Cc: Rodmakers Date: Saturday, May 05, 2001 8:10 PMSubject: Re: decals At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of =a new printer paper (I think it was printer paper??) that made realistic =decals. If you could find this stuff, which if I remember correctly was =like the little decals used for plastic models, you know, the soak and =apply kind with clear background, it would simply be a matter of =scanning an original, cleaning it up in Photoshop (or equivalent) and = If you do manage to track down a source for this paper I would love = Hi all: Working on several restoration's for my personal =collection. Any info on a source for Montague and HI decals to replace =the damaged ones?Mike Shawn, I had good luck with decal supplies from Micromark = ink jet printer. Dennis Bertram -----Original = Shawn Pineo <nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca&g= mtbrown@sprynet.com = Rodmakers <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= = At one time a few years back I recall seeing mention of a new = (I think it was printer paper??) that made realistic decals. If you = find this stuff, which if I remember correctly was like the little = used for plastic models, you know, the soak and apply kind with = background, it would simply be a matter of scanning an original, = to track down a source for this paper I would love to hear about it, = = Hi = ones?Mike from Nodewrrior@aol.com Mon May 7 22:49:18 2001 f483nGS07789 Subject: Re: Finishing trouble If your thread tensioning device is of the sewing machine type, the squishing of the silk might be putting twist in the silk strand. I switched to a system that applies brake pressure to the spool, the silk goes unmolested. Coren's Rod and Reel in Chicago makes a great tensioner/holder. i don't know what their stock situation is, but I can give you a ph# off list.I always put three preliminary coats of varnish on my wraps before varnishing. Give that a try. Good luck, Rob Hoffhines from Finanplanr@aol.com Tue May 8 00:14:01 2001 f485E0S10455 Subject: Bob Maulucci e-mail address or website? Does anyone on this list know the email address and/or website url for Bob Maulucci? Thanks,Stuart Kirkfield from beadman@mac.com Tue May 8 10:08:23 2001 f48F8MS21835 Subject: Re: Bob Maulucci e-mail address or Web site? At 1:13 AM -0400 on 5/8/01, Finanplanr@aol.com wrote about Bob Maulucci e-mail address or Web site? Does anyone on this list know the email address and/or website url for BobMaulucci? Thanks,Stuart Kirkfield Stuart: send a message to listproc@wugate.wustl.edu and in the text part put only review rodmakers and in a few seconds, you'll receive a list of ALL subscribers and their email addresses. Claude from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Tue May 8 12:35:42 2001 f48HZfS29289 Subject: wayne cattanach does anyone off hand know wayne's website address? chris from ttalsma@macatawa.org Tue May 8 12:42:41 2001 f48HgeS29653 Rodmakers List Subject: Re: wayne cattanach That would be: http://www.wcattanachrodco.com/ "Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD" wrote: does anyone off hand know wayne's website address? chris -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ web design business page: http://ttalsma.bizland.com/home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from AlanM@unityhealth.com Tue May 8 12:46:38 2001 f48HkbS29886 2001 17:47:52 UT 2001 17:46:55 UT (5.5.2653.19) "'rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu'" Subject: RE: wayne cattanach http://www.wcattanachrodco.com/ -----Original Message-----From: Christopher A. Obuchowski, MD Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 12:30 PM Subject: wayne cattanach does anyone off hand know wayne's website address? chris from cdn@ticon.net Tue May 8 20:10:02 2001 f491A2S15267 Subject: dipping in varmor Thanks for all the very helpfull replies to my varmor wrapquestion. Here's a related question to varmor users- whatis the approximate between dip time for this finish? I amnot going to sand between second and third coats but I dontwant the finish to harden too much between dips-should the first coat be soft wet or just barely tacky before the next dip?I'll be dipping in a purified air type chamber, somewhat likeWaynes design.Thank to all.Ned from Nodewrrior@aol.com Tue May 8 21:00:09 2001 f49208S16256 Subject: Re: dipping in varmor Maybe there is a window of time in which to 2nd coat that I missed. but I made a real mess out of a rod by dipping a second coat before thepreceeding coat had set. The effect was the 1st coat disintegrated, leaving raggedglobs in the finish-YUCK! I now make sure I wait about 24 houre between coats. I too use P&L Varmor by the way. Rob Hoffhines from cphisey@neca.com Tue May 8 23:07:03 2001 f49472S18861 Subject: Re: Bob Maulucci e-mail address or website? Hi Stuart,Bob's got two web sites : http://www.powerfibers.com andhttp://www.downandacross.comHis email is : bmaulucci@adelphia.netAddress is218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216How are things out Colorado ways. We haven't had rain in CT for a month.Therivers look like it's August already. I suppose the Farmington is fine,though I haven't gotten out there yet this year.Take Care,Charlie Hisey (on the banks of the Willimantic) ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Bob Maulucci e-mail address or website? Does anyone on this list know the email address and/or website url for BobMaulucci? Thanks,Stuart Kirkfield from stoltz10@home.com Wed May 9 09:46:58 2001 f49EkvS00955 femail11.sdc1.sfba.home.com 0700 Subject: test delete This is a multi-part message in MIME format. from baconrod@gsmrinc.com Wed May 9 11:39:23 2001 f49GdMS06620 Subject: Re: Leonard Duracane Tapers --Message-Boundary-27735 Here are the Leonard Duracane tapers that I measured on blanks years ago. I have extended the lengths so you can Make 3 line wtgs from these tapers.Best Hal Bacon --Message-Boundary-27735 The following section of this message contains a file attachmentprepared for transmission using the Internet MIME message format.If you are using Pegasus Mail, or any another MIME-compliant system,you should be able to save it or view it from within your mailer.If you cannot, please ask your system administrator for assistance.>Fromharms1@pa.net Wed May 9 17:04:00 2001 f49M3mS21436 "Tom Whittle" , "Tom Davis" ,"Ted Rist" , "Steven L. Bender" ,, "Steve Deckert" ,"Stephanie Ann Lowe" ,"Stephanie Ann Lowe" ,,, "Rodmakers","Randall Gregory" , "R MCNAMEE" ,"Philip Taylor" , "Pete Hiatt" ,"Paula Paxton" , "Paul Harms" ,"Pamela Marie Baumgardner" ,"Morgan Hand Mill" ,"Mitzi Paulette Taylor" ,"Mike Biondo" , "Michael Brennan","McNamee, Robert" ,"Lyle Parfrey" , ,"Kireta, Sr. Andy G. (CDA)" ,"Joe Lauver" , "Jodi Reese" ,, "Jerry Thomas Taylor" ,, "Golden Witch" ,"Glenn O. Baker" , "Donna M Marshalek","Don DeLoach" ,"David H. Williams, III" ,"Dave Williams" , ,"BH&G Shopping" ,,"Arne Mason" , "Adrian Rossi" Subject: WARNING ABOUT "HOMEPAGE" VIRUS Dear All, I am sending this message to you because my computer was infected with anemail virus. It is called "Homepage." DO NOT OPEN IT! If opened, the virus spreads quickly to everyone in your email directory,exposing all on the list to a series of highly offensive pornographic sites. Simply DELETE the message from your machine without opening it. If youopenthe attachment, you'll have to do what I'm doing now. We have no idea wherethe virus originated, but it is particularly insidious because it's not theusual "exe." attachment that we've become accustomed to avoiding. My sincerest apologies to all those in my address book who may have beenaffected by this. Bill Harms from setissma@email.msn.com Wed May 9 21:19:28 2001 f4A2JRS26359 Wed, 9 May 2001 19:19:24 -0700 Subject: question about a tip section FILETIME=[A1F78990:01C0D8F7] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I am new to the list and the craft. I glued my second rod with Nyatex, =heat treated the glued section for about a 1/2 hour at 200 F, then let =it cure for 10 days. It is a 7 foot 4 weight Dickerson taper. The =problem is that the tip sections seem weak. If I flex the blank, I can =produce a set that the tip end of the section retains, well = Before final planing, the tips were heat treated at 350 F until they =darkened slightly (about 15 minutes). The epoxy is fully cured. Both are =surprisingly close to specifications (+ or - .002). Bamboo was of good =quality. Tips were stored in my basement at 65-70 F with a dehumidifier =running, but sitting on a table or hanging in the drying rack. About =45-55 % humidity. I can think of several possibilities: 1. The tips were not heat treated adequately before final planing. =Maybe, but they looked almost overcooked when I took them out. 2. I failed to store them in a dry enough environment during planing and =curing. Moisture has re-entered the cane and softened the action. 3. I have no prior experience with a four weight with a fine tip, and am =expecting bamboo to act like some other material. Perhaps, but the =sister rod (a 7 1/2 foot 5 weight Dickerson) seems much stronger by = I am open to suggestions here. Do I have a problem, and if so, is there =anything I can do at this point? Jeff Schaeffer I am new to the list and the craft. I = second rod with Nyatex, heat treated the glued section for about a 1/2 = 200 F, then let it cure for 10 days. It is a 7 foot 4 weight Dickerson = The problem is that the tip sections seem weak. If I flex the blank, I = Before final planing, the tips were = 350 F until they darkened slightly (about 15 minutes). The epoxy is = Both are surprisingly close to specifications (+ or - .002). Bamboo was = quality. Tips were stored in my basement at 65-70 F with a dehumidifier = but sitting on a table or hanging in the drying rack. About 45-55 % = can think of several possibilities: 1. The tips were not heat treated = final planing. Maybe, but they looked almost overcooked when I took them = out. 2. I failed to store them in a dry = environment during planing and curing. Moisture has re-entered the cane = softened the action. 3. I have no prior experience with a = = I am open to suggestions here. Do I = point? Jeff =Schaeffer from cattanac@wmis.net Wed May 9 22:10:21 2001 f4A3AKS27350 Subject: Re: question about a tip section This is a multi-part message in MIME format. A couple suggestions - hopefully they may help1) if you can use your heat treating oven to try to dehydrate the =section - but first weight it on a very accurate scale - a grain scale =that bullet loaders uses is adequate - the create an oven temp of about =120 - with my oven thermostat that temperature is achieved by just =turning the dial until it first clicks when the oven is room temp - then =place the section into the oven and let it set there for a couple of =days - at that time reweigh it and compare results - understand that you =are doing here - for every 4 degrees that you increase the temp above ='normal' room temperature - you will reduce the humidity by =approximately 10 % so if you workshop is say 70 an increase to 120 will =remove virtually all moisture - and by allowing the section to set in =the atmosphere for several days it allows the quested trapped moisture =time to escape Hey give this a try and report back to the group Wayne Jeff - suggestions = they may help1) if you can use your heat treating = dehydrate the section - but first weight it on a very accurate scale - a = scale that bullet loaders uses is adequate - the create an oven temp of = the dial until it first clicks when the oven is room temp - then place = section into the oven and let it set there for a couple of days - at = reweigh it and compare results - understand that you are doing here - = 4 degrees that you increase the temp above 'normal' room temperature - = reduce the humidity by approximately 10 % so if you workshop is say 70 = increase to 120 will remove virtually all moisture - and by allowing the = to set in the atmosphere for several days it allows the quested trapped = time to escape Hey give this a try and report back to = group Wayne from stuart.rod@gmx.de Thu May 10 07:10:48 2001 f4ACAlS04344 Subject: Flylines O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from danny.twang@pd.no Thu May 10 07:14:34 2001 f4ACEWS04593 Thu, 10 May 2001 14:14:28 +0200 Thu, 10 May 2001 14:14:27 +0200 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; WinNT4.0; en-US; m18)Gecko/20001108 Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Flylines There is no alternatives. Once You have tried silk, You are sold:-) I still have a plastic line I use (haven`t got the $ to buy me a new silk:-( it is a Orvis SpringcreekDT4. danny Stuart Moultrie wrote: O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Thu May 10 09:26:55 2001 f4AEQtS08758 Subject: Re: Flylines f4AEQtS08759 I like the Wulff Triangle Tapers. John K.-----Original Message----- Subject: Flylines O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu May 10 10:14:17 2001 f4AFEGS11539 2001 08:14:19 PDT Subject: Re: Flylines i like the sa mastery xps dt tapers timothy --- Stuart Moultrie wrote:O.K this is the question that is asked on a regularbasis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (Iforgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of flyline which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 -4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody usingthese? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will thinksilk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from dutcher@email.msn.com Thu May 10 10:14:19 2001 f4AFEJS11551 Thu, 10 May 2001 08:14:16 -0700 Subject: Re: Flylines FILETIME=[E10FE980:01C0D963] Hi Stuart, I try to use the cheapest line I can find. I have found, that afterdetonating the depth-charge, about two to three feet of my line is burnedoff. Considering the cost of black-market explosives fly fishing can getrather expensive. Yes, it is fly fishing. You should see how the fish flywhen there is ignition. Just remember, "kill more than you can carry". Now we will see if anyone reads these posts. Hmm, I can't remember if Itook my medication this morning. Stuart, I use Scientific Anglers, Mastery lines when I am not using are- conditioned silk. I like weight-forward styles because quite often I amcasting shorter distances than the rods were designed for. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message -----From: Stuart Moultrie Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2001 5:15 AMSubject: Flylines O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu May 10 10:32:49 2001 f4AFWnS12516 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Flylines Dick,The more traditional approach, in keeping with your cane rod, uses quicklime (sodium) in a weighted cork bottle. Throw the bottle in the pool and use your flyline to pull the cork free. Your line will last longer this way.Seriously, Walmart has some SA lines, in WF and DT, that are just fine and only cost about $10.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ dutcher wrote: Hi Stuart, I try to use the cheapest line I can find. I have found, that afterdetonating the depth-charge, about two to three feet of my line is burnedoff. Considering the cost of black-market explosives fly fishing can getrather expensive. Yes, it is fly fishing. You should see how the fish flywhen there is ignition. Just remember, "kill more than you can carry". Now we will see if anyone reads these posts. Hmm, I can't remember if Itook my medication this morning. Stuart, I use Scientific Anglers, Mastery lines when I am not using are- conditioned silk. I like weight-forward styles because quite often I amcasting shorter distances than the rods were designed for. Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- from dpeaston@wzrd.com Thu May 10 13:44:19 2001 f4AIiJS20709 Subject: Re: Flylines Wulff TT has my vote too. You get very nice loops without high line speedand the front taper gives you nice presentations. -DougAt 10:22 AM 5/10/01 -0400, John Kenealy wrote:I like the Wulff Triangle Tapers. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Stuart Moultrie Date: Thursday, May 10, 2001 8:11 AMSubject: Flylines O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from Canerods@aol.com Thu May 10 14:27:21 2001 f4AJRKS22831 Subject: Reelseat removal? --part1_e6.1531e770.282c4590_boundary All, All right is everyone on vacation at once? I've been looking for a replacement reelseat for my 7'6" Heddon rod for some time now. I just found and purchased a Heddon tubular metal rod with the correct reelseat spacer. In the past heating these realseats in boiling water just left be with a discolored spacer still attached to the rod. How should I try to remove the reelseat? I'm leaning towards sawing the shaft and trying to bend the metal away from the spacer. Or leaving the metal inside as a sleeve. Don Burns --part1_e6.1531e770.282c4590_boundary All, All right is everyone on vacation at once? I've been looking for a replacement reelseat for my 7'6" Heddon rod forsome time now. I just found and purchased a Heddon tubular metal rod withthe correct reelseat spacer. In the past heating these realseats in boiling water just left be with a discolored spacer still attached to the rod. How should I try to removethe reelseat? I'm leaning towards sawing the shaft and trying to bend the metal away from the spacer. Or leaving the metal inside as a sleeve. Don Burns --part1_e6.1531e770.282c4590_boundary-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Thu May 10 14:31:34 2001 f4AJVXS23224 Subject: RE: Reelseat removal? This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. I've had the same problem. On one seat I successfully sawed off the butt ofthe rod then bored a hole down the center of the seat on my drillpress. Idon't think I'll do it again with a DP though, I'm convinced I merely gotlucky and got a straight, centered hole. If you have a lathe I would use itto bore a new hole, just choose a speed that will allow the bit to cut awaythe metal without overheating. -----Original Message----- Subject: Reelseat removal? All, All right is everyone on vacation at once? I've been looking for a replacement reelseat for my 7'6" Heddon rod for some time now. I just found and purchased a Heddon tubular metal rod with the correct reelseat spacer. In the past heating these realseats in boiling water just left be with a discolored spacer still attached to the rod. How should I try to remove the reelseat? I'm leaning towards sawing the shaft and trying to bend the metal away from the spacer. Or leaving the metal inside as a sleeve. Don Burns I've of the don't think I'll do it again with a DP though, I'm convinced I merely got lucky bore a new hole, just choose a speed that will allow the bit to cut away the metal without overheating. -----Original Message-----From: Canerods@aol.com 1:27 Reelseat removal?All, All right is everyone on vacation at once? I've beenlooking I just found and purchased a Heddon tubular metal rod with the correct reelseat spacer. In the past heating these realseats in boilingwater just left be with a discolored spacer still attached to the rod. How should I try to remove the reelseat? I'm leaning towardssawing the shaft and trying to bend the metal away from the spacer. Orleaving the metal inside as a sleeve. Don Burns from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Thu May 10 14:34:15 2001 f4AJYES23581 Thu, 10 May 2001 20:34:12 +0100 Subject: Re: Flylines Silk Fly lines are just great with a cane rod but a lot of my fishingis on small heavilly over grown streams and you have to ask the questionif throwing an expensive line around among stones, boulders ,bramblesand trees and the resulting damage that can result from a seasons hardfishing ( I fish three or four times a week ......'foot and mouth'permitting that is)justifies their use ? settled on using 'quality 'pvc mill ends for most of my type of fishing\.I generally pay about $5 for these lines and one will last my kind offishing about one season............Paul Stuart Moultrie wrote: O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu May 10 14:44:09 2001 f4AJi8S24126 with Novell_GroupWise; Thu, 10 May 2001 12:43:56 -0700 Subject: Granger Name f4AJi9S24127 I know that Ricksrods owns the Phillipson name, but I forget who owns theGranger name, or the Wright and McGill Granger name. Anyone know? from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Thu May 10 15:05:54 2001 f4AK5rS25239 Subject: Re: Flylines f4AK5rS25240 I carry Wulff, RIO and Cortland lines and you can cast pretty much what youwant before you buy. John K.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Flylines You will get plenty of opinions. I like the triange tapers first andultra 3 DT lines second in general, but it is rod-specific. Whichbrings up the real point - does anybody know of a fly shop that hassamples of the actual lines they sell to test? The usual scam is tohave some old junkers to cast that bear no resemblance to the ones inthe boxes on the shelf. You need to cast a line just as much as youdo a rod to know what you are getting. I guess they figure that youwill buy several that way. Oh, and the "you can bring it back if itdoesn't work out" assurance has not proven real sincere in myexperience. Yes, the eventually take it back, with majorarm-twisting with plenty of pissing and moaning thrown in. A pet peeve, as you can tell. --- John Kenealy wrote:I like the Wulff Triangle Tapers. John K.-----Original Message-----From: Stuart Moultrie Date: Thursday, May 10, 2001 8:11 AMSubject: Flylines O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but oneIdon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line whichworkbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and waslookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but whataboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from Canerods@aol.com Thu May 10 15:12:50 2001 f4AKCnS25696 Subject: Re: Granger Name --part1_bb.e587eac.282c5035_boundary Chris, I think it's still Wright & McGill and they sell their new stuff under the Eagle Claw name. Don --part1_bb.e587eac.282c5035_boundary Chris, I think it's still Wright & McGill and they sell their new stuff underthe Eagle Claw name. Don --part1_bb.e587eac.282c5035_boundary-- from hartzell@easystreet.com Thu May 10 16:28:12 2001 f4ALSCS28867 f4ALS8922611; Subject: Re: question about a tip section --------------4B364293FF8748C6FACE6287 Sounds like bad bamboo. Did you flex each strip before planing to seeif there was a weak spot?ED setissma wrote: I am new to the list and the craft. I glued my second rod with Nyatex,heat treated the glued section for about a 1/2 hour at 200 F, then letit cure for 10 days. It is a 7 foot 4 weight Dickerson taper. Theproblem is that the tip sections seem weak. If I flex the blank, I canproduce a set that the tip end of the section retains, wellindefinitely. Before final planing, the tips were heat treated at 350F until they darkened slightly (about 15 minutes). The epoxy is fullycured. Both are surprisingly close to specifications (+ or - .002).Bamboo was of good quality. Tips were stored in my basement at 65-70 Fwith a dehumidifier running, but sitting on a table or hanging in thedrying rack. About 45-55 % humidity. I can think of severalpossibilities: 1. The tips were not heat treated adequately beforefinal planing. Maybe, but they looked almost overcooked when I tookthem out. 2. I failed to store them in a dry enough environment duringplaning and curing. Moisture has re-entered the cane and softened theaction. 3. I have no prior experience with a four weight with a finetip, and am expecting bamboo to act like some other material. Perhaps,but the sister rod (a 7 1/2 foot 5 weight Dickerson) seems muchstronger by comparison even accounting for the fact that it is aheavier rod. I am open to suggestions here. Do I have a problem, andif so, is there anything I can do at this point? Jeff Schaeffer --------------4B364293FF8748C6FACE6287 see if there was a weak spot?EDsetissma wrote: Iam new to the list and the craft. I glued my second rod with Nyatex, heattreated the glued section for about a 1/2 hour at 200 F, then let it cure the tip sections seem weak. If I flex the blank, I can produce a set thatthe tip end of the section retains, well final planing, the tips were heat treated at 350 F until they darkenedslightly (about 15 minutes). The epoxy is fully cured. Both are surprisinglyclose to specifications (+ or - .002). Bamboo was of good quality. Tipswere stored in my basement at 65-70 F with a dehumidifier running, butsitting on a table or hanging in the drying rack. About 45-55 % humidity. The tips were not heat treated adequately before final planing. Maybe,but they looked almost overcooked when I took them I failed to store them in a dry enough environment during planing and curing.Moisture has re-entered the cane and softened the I have no prior experience with a four weight with a fine tip, and am expectingbamboo to act like some other material. Perhaps, but the sister rod (a7 1/2 foot 5 weight Dickerson) seems much stronger by comparison evenaccounting am open to suggestions here. Do I have a problem, and if so, is thereanything Schaeffer --------------4B364293FF8748C6FACE6287-- from horsesho@ptd.net Thu May 10 16:44:14 2001 f4ALiES29579 0000 Subject: Re: Flylines The best lines on Bamboo are the DT's. Doesn't really matter what brand aslong as it's a quality line. Of course just my opinion. Marty Stuart Moultrie wrote: O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu May 10 17:09:53 2001 f4AM9qS00414 Subject: Re: Flylines Marty, Stuart, and others, Best line I've ever fished, period, is a Mackenzie Airflo 7000TS. Thelines are supple enough to handle well. They float higher than any otherlines, making mending line simple. They'll cast a country mile. They evencome with a 5 year no-crack guarantee. I like weight forward. I also really like the Airflo Delta Taper. Italked about both of them a good little bit on the list about 6 weeks ago. They're available from our own list's Bob Perry at http://aflyshop.com.And no, I don't get a kickback from Bob -- although I've sent him a littlebusiness now and then, simply because he's been good to me. Harry none wrote: The best lines on Bamboo are the DT's. Doesn't really matter what brandaslong as it's a quality line. Of course just my opinion. Marty Stuart Moultrie wrote: O.K this is the question that is asked on a regular basis but one Idon't seem to have paid enough attention to (I forgot the answer). What is the general consensus regarding types of fly line which workbest with Bamboo. I need a couple of new lines (#3 - 4)and was lookingat the Sage Quiet Taper lines........anybody using these? Is thereanything better? I know a lot of you will think silk, but what aboutalternatives? Thanks Stuart --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from Lazybee45@aol.com Thu May 10 21:23:41 2001 f4B2NeS04508 Subject: Re: Flylines I get SA fly line from K-Mart (sacralige!) for $9.95 and it works pretty well for me anyway.mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from bob@downandacross.com Fri May 11 07:31:39 2001 f4BCVcS10431 May 2001 08:31:35 -0400 Subject: dies --=====================_35859686==_.ALT Anyone using dies to stamp initials or logos into their components?Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_35859686==_.ALT Anyone using dies to stamp initials or logos into their components?Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_35859686==_.ALT-- from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Fri May 11 08:50:35 2001 f4BDoYS12842 f4BDoaK27260 Subject: Re: Flylines On Thu, 10 May 2001, Harry Boyd wrote: Marty, Stuart, and others, Best line I've ever fished, period, is a Mackenzie Airflo 7000TS. Thelines are supple enough to handle well. They float higher than any otherlines, making mending line simple. They'll cast a country mile. They evencome with a 5 year no-crack guarantee. I like weight forward. I also really like the Airflo Delta Taper. Italked about both of them a good little bit on the list about 6 weeks ago. The Delta Taper is a long front taper like Triangle Taper. And if theTT line wears out in a year (along with the warranty), the Delta willstill be going strong. I've converted a few local bamboo folks previouslyusing TT lines to Deltas. There is also an Airflo Long Belly line thatsome folks seem to prefer. And to confuse things even more, TT is nolonger using the dual line designation but Delta still is, ie. 3/4, 4/5etc. Regards, BobFly Suppliesaflyshop.com from mcranna@anearbyplanet.com Fri May 11 09:18:04 2001 f4BEI3S13833 Fri, 11 May 2001 08:18:01 -0600 Subject: Guide Spacing - homepage This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Stuart, check out this link. When Dick Fuhrman posted the list of links =in response to your email, I decided to check them out. This one =wouldn't load for some reason, but Mr. Gregerson kindly corrected that =problem. Check it out. He's done some very interesting work here and =one of the program downloads is a handy guide spacing program. Haven't =had the chance yet to empirically evaluate the numbers.http://users.cybercity.dk/~bcc25154/home.html Regards, Mike Cranna = city.dk/~bcc25154/home.html Regards, Mike =Cranna name="homepage.url" filename="homepage.url" [DEFAULT]BASEURL=http://users.cybercity.dk/~bcc25154/home.html [InternetShortcut]URL=http://users.cybercity.dk/~bcc25154/home.htmlModified=4026FA5124DAC00170 from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Fri May 11 11:17:29 2001 f4BGHTS18251 0400 Subject: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi List, My firewall picked up this e-mail from the list, do not open this e-mailwith attachment. Take care Tim. Upstream Always Tim DoughtyRodmaker Normal0DocumentEmail Hi List, My firewall picked up this e-mail from the list, do not open this =e-mailwith attachment. Take care Tim. =A0AUTOTEXTLIST \s "E-mail =Signature" Upstream =Always Tim Doughty Rodmaker from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri May 11 11:56:09 2001 f4BGu7S20003 Subject: Re: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! I picked up a virus from the list on my other computer and it wont let me do anything at all with that computer. I tell you if it wasn't for certain things with a Mac they would be the perfect computer. No viruses on it so I guess I made the correct choice by keeeping the Mac for my shop stuff.Bret from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri May 11 13:03:28 2001 f4BI3RS24188 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh- Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Re: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3072456200_143802_MIME_Part Sorry guys, I should have warned You, we had this virus going hereyesterday....... danny Subject: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Hi List, My firewall picked up this e-mail from the list, do not open this e-mailwith attachment. Take care Tim. Upstream Always Tim Doughty Rodmaker --MS_Mac_OE_3072456200_143802_MIME_Part Re: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry guys, I should have warned You, we had this virus going here yesterda=y....... danny From: "Tim Doughty" Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:19:01 -0400 Subject: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! HiList, My firewall picked up this e-mail from th=e list, do not open this e-mail with attachment. Take careTim. Upstream Always Tim Doughty Rodmaker --MS_Mac_OE_3072456200_143802_MIME_Part-- from dannyt@frisurf.no Fri May 11 13:03:30 2001 f4BI3TS24192 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh- Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Re: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! You should have bought an new Mac instead of that PC, it is the perfectcomputer;-) danny From: Grhghlndr@aol.com Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 12:54:41 EDT Subject: Re: VIRUS ALERT: GUIDE SPACING-HOMEPAGE!!!!!!!!!!!! I picked up a virus from the list on my other computer and it wont let medoanything at all with that computer. I tell you if it wasn't for certainthings with a Mac they would be the perfect computer. No viruses on it soIguess I made the correct choice by keeeping the Mac for my shop stuff.Bret from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Fri May 11 16:35:54 2001 f4BLZrS02403 Subject: RE: Gathering Recap the meeting was held saturday may 5 at the Kelly Center in Tigard, OR, andsunday may 6 at the Wilderness Lakes in Canby, OR.saturday's event started at 9 AM with registration (headed by kevincallaway's 8 year old daughter chloe), coffee and donuts. there were about 40 in attendance, including such notables as Alecjackson,ed hartzell, dwight lyons, darell whitehead, marty karsteader, dean jones,lyle varnado, mike mccoy, al bellinger, AJ thramer, chris mcdowell, kevincallaway, tom fulk, robert cope, christopher obuchowski, and a whole lotofothers (i appologize to everyone i've left out). the first item on the venue was the round table discussion, covering suchtopics as heat treating (still no concensus regarding times andtemperatures), the best glue for ferrules (no concensus) and whether ornotto pin,hand planing versus milling, and determining a rod worth (bothmonetarily and as a fishing tool). after a short break for lunch in the local taverns, the meetingre- commencedat around 1 PM. a discussion and demostration of the morgan hand mill(including the prototype cutter head for hollow fluting)provided bychristopher obuchowski, and also a stimulating and lively discussion ofquadrods, and scarf jointed, ferrule-less rod construction. Marty karsteadermodelled a new press machine for quickly and efficiently displacing nodesinstrips. Steve Kiley displayed a host of powered tools for all facets ofrodmaking, and keving callaway held an intro to rodmaking clinic 101 fornewbe and wannabe rodmakers in attendance. also during the afternoon parties and individuals kept slipping outdoorstocast the various rods brought by the attendees.The scarf jointed, ferrule-less quad produced by christopherobuchowski (taper provided by bob malucci who converted the 7 foot 4/5wtsir D taper originated by wayne cattanach) raised someeyebrows due to the extremely light weight (no metal ferrules) anddelicate yet ery powerful action. so did the exquisitely delicate miniature full wells grip on> chris mcdowell'ssmall stream trout rod, and the slow but powerful biglakerods by tom fulk and dwight lyons. the afternoon's activities were capped by the silent auction mastered bydean jones. Thanks go out to the various individuals and vendors whosedonations made the auction possible, including mike McKoy of snake brandguides, al bellinger, harold and eileen demarest, alec jackson, REC,Goldenwitch, and all the others i've failed to name. a dozen or so of the die-hards adjourned to cafe alegro for pitchers ofbeer, pasta, and more pitchers of beer. sunday's event consisted of fishing two small and one larger privatelakes,primarily with cane rods, in the gentle sunshine. more beer was involved.trout, bass, crappies and panfish were involved (some to quite large sizes-the largest personally witnessed was a trout of around five pounds). from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Fri May 11 19:08:02 2001 f4C081S05534 2001 17:08:01 PDT Subject: Quad winding check Curious, what do you guys that build quads, use forwinding checks? I'm working on my first quad and havesome ideas but nothing jumps right out at me. Wouldappreciate any suggestions. Will need a check for thisfirst rod at least since I'm using what would havebeen a throw away grip by turning some wood as aspacer because the grip is bored too large (got a dealon some grips that have real clear cork but are boredoverly large). Thanks, Bill Walters. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from bob@downandacross.com Fri May 11 19:18:28 2001 f4C0IRS05772 Subject: Re: Quad winding check --=====================_15770963==_.ALT Hi Bill:Are you reading my mind? I just got a message from a very well respected builder and supplier today, and he is making some punches available for doing this. E-mail me off list if interested.Take care,Bob At 05:08 PM 5/11/2001 -0700, Bill Walters wrote:Curious, what do you guys that build quads, use forwinding checks? I'm working on my first quad and havesome ideas but nothing jumps right out at me. Wouldappreciate any suggestions. Will need a check for thisfirst rod at least since I'm using what would havebeen a throw away grip by turning some wood as aspacer because the grip is bored too large (got a dealon some grips that have real clear cork but are boredoverly large). Thanks, Bill Walters. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_15770963==_.ALT Hi Bill:Are you reading my mind? I just got a message from a very well respectedbuilder and supplier today, and he is making some punches available fordoing this. E-mail me off list if interested. Take care,BobAt 05:08 PM 5/11/2001 -0700, Bill Walters wrote:Curious, what do you guys thatbuild quads, use forwinding checks? I'm working on my first quad and havesome ideas but nothing jumps right out at me. Wouldappreciate any suggestions. Will need a check for thisfirst rod at least since I'm using what would havebeen a throw away grip by turning some wood as aspacer because the grip is bored too large (got a dealon some grips that have real clear cork but are boredoverly large). Thanks, Bill Walters.__________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_15770963==_.ALT-- from BigJohn47@aol.com Fri May 11 21:46:51 2001 f4C2koS07746 Subject: wooden forms --part1_3e.b969783.282dfe12_boundary hey guys i have made myself a set of wooden planing forms and i waswondering if you put a finish on them or leave them raw. thanks john --part1_3e.b969783.282dfe12_boundary hey guys i have mademyself a set of wooden planing forms and i was wondering if you put a finish on them or leave them raw. john --part1_3e.b969783.282dfe12_boundary-- from parataper@hotmail.com Sat May 12 08:57:49 2001 f4CDvmS15727 Sat, 12 May 2001 06:57:47 -0700 HTTP; Sat, 12 May 2001 13:57:46 GMT FILETIME=[8649D810:01C0DAEB] Hey guys, I need guide spacing for a PHY Midge. Thanks, MP_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from bob@downandacross.com Sat May 12 09:13:08 2001 f4CED7S16061 Subject: Re: --=====================_65848394==_.ALT Here is the guide spacing on the PHY Midge. It was sent to me from a listmember. Sorry I cannot remember who, but thanks.Bob Starting at the tip: 5", 6-3/8" 6-13/16", 6-7/16", 7-7/8", 5-1/2", toend of male ferrule. Male portion that fits inside the female is .875". from end of female ferrule: 5", 9-1/2", 16-1/2" to front of grip,3-15/16" to end of grip, 3-1/8" from end of grip, to end of rod/reel seat.Total length of the entire female ferrule is 2". At 08:57 AM 5/12/2001 -0500, mark petrie wrote:Hey guys, I need guide spacing for a PHY Midge. Thanks, MP_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_65848394==_.ALT Here is the guide spacing on the PHY Midge. It was sent to me from alistmember. Sorry I cannot remember who, but thanks.Bob 6-13/16", 6-7/16", 7-7/8", 5-1/2", toend of male ferrule. Male portion that fits inside the female is.875". 9-1/2", 16-1/2" to front of grip,3-15/16" to end of grip, 3- 1/8" from end of grip, to end ofrod/reel seat.Total length of the entire female ferrule is 2". At 08:57 AM 5/12/2001 -0500, mark petrie wrote: _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_65848394==_.ALT-- from bob@downandacross.com Sat May 12 13:58:52 2001 f4CIwpS20054 May 2001 14:58:06 -0400 Subject: everybody gone fishing? --=====================_8662320==_.ALT Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_8662320==_.ALT Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_8662320==_.ALT-- from iank@ts.co.nz Sat May 12 15:43:14 2001 f4CKhCS21322 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. The drought has finally broken down here and the rivers are high and = Ian Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 6:58 AMSubject: everybody gone fishing? Bob Maulucci==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboo=rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, =and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com It looks that way Bob. The drought has finally broken down = rivers are high and dirty Ian ----- Original Message ----- Maulucci Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 6:58=AMSubject: everybody gone =fishing? =Maulucci=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhttp://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine= bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for= quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, = accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com= from anglport@con2.com Sat May 12 16:12:09 2001 f4CLC9S21805 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? I was beginning to think that the Homepage worm had overloaded thelist(that's what I believe it's designed to do). Good to see someone ELSE can'tgo fishing this weekend! Mother's Day indeed!8^)Have a good one with yours,Art At 08:38 AM 05/13/2001 +1200, Ian Kearney wrote:It looks that way Bob. The drought has finally broken down here andthe rivers are high and dirty Ian ----- Original Message ----- May 13, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: everybody gone fishing? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sat May 12 17:14:17 2001 f4CMEGS22747 Sat, 12 May 2001 15:14:10 -0700 Subject: Re: wooden forms John,Haven't seen any response yet, so I'll jump in andsuggest that you not bother with finish on wooden forms.The planing and scraping would remove it rather quickly. Ifyou wanted to finish the sides, I'm sure that would beokay. But not the surfaces on which you actually plane... Harry BigJohn47@aol.com wrote: hey guys i have made myself a set of wooden planing formsand i was wonderingif you put a finish on them or leave them raw. thanksjohn --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from johanyga@online.no Sat May 12 18:05:18 2001 f4CN5GS23743 Sun, 13 May 2001 01:01:14 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: SV: everybody gone fishing? I've been out fishing for the first time this year. Got nothing, butnevertheless my Tex.Gen. and I had a good time.Johan(Norway) -----Opprinnelig melding-----Fra: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sendt: 12. mai 2001 23:12Til: iank@ts.co.nz; bob@downandacross.comKopi: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduEmne: Re: everybody gone fishing? I was beginning to think that the Homepage worm had overloaded thelist(that's what I believe it's designed to do). Good to see someone ELSE can'tgo fishing this weekend!Mother's Day indeed!8^)Have a good one with yours,Art At 08:38 AM 05/13/2001 +1200, Ian Kearney wrote:It looks that way Bob. The drought has finally broken down here andthe rivers are high and dirty Ian ----- Original Message ----- May 13, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: everybody gone fishing? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from Lazybee45@aol.com Sat May 12 18:25:38 2001 f4CNPbS24085 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? In a message dated 5/12/01 4:12:45 PM Central Daylight Time, anglport@con2.com writes: I would have liked to go fishing, but no such luck. Not only Mother's day ('Whaddya MEAN you are not going to make me breakfast in bed!) But Iowa experienced some really nasty storms in th elast coupleof days. The local creeks are up and dirty and nasty. We had hail nearly golf ball size the other night! So I went and watched my Son-in-law play Rugby. He is the hooker. good player! Headhunters RULE!!! (28-15 over the dweebs from Clinton!) Fun game, no major injuries, not even any real blood stains!mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from setissma@email.msn.com Sat May 12 19:34:08 2001 f4D0Y7S24945 Sat, 12 May 2001 17:34:05 -0700 Subject: Re: set in a tip section FILETIME=[6A686720:01C0DB44] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Several days ago I posted a question regarding a recently glued tip =section that took a permanent set after being flexed. As usual, I =received many thoughtful ideas, and several contributors asked me to =post results. Here is what was suggested, my response, and the surprise =ending. Several people suggested that the The Nyatex had not set properly, or =that it might be old. The can was new, but I had done only a short heat =set based on some advice I had gotten from an Epoxy expert. I did a =standard Nyatex heat set treatment, but no dice. Things were pretty much =the same. Another person suggested that the bamboo was bad, and asked if I had =flexed each strip before gluing. I had, and they all passed. There was =adequate depth of power fibers so that each strip had no pith. I had =done the "use your worst culm for your first rod" approach, but the culm =was bad only in the sense that the freight company had crushed it and I =was lucky to get a single rod. Wayne C. thought that the rod might have absorbed moisture during the =time it was being planed and glued, and suggested several days at a =temperature of 120 F might remove any moisture in the cane. Alas, I my =oven is rather crude, and I did not have this capability. Also, I =reasoned that the standard heat set treatment would have dried things = While eyeing the trash can, I flexed the tips, and suddenly thought " =this cane acts like it has not been heat treated". I heated the oven to =375, and stuck them in for 15 minutes. When they came out, they were =perfect. I can still put a slight set in the tips, but only if I flex =them way beyond what would ever occur while casting. Both tips have that ="snappy" recovery that was missing before. Why they did not fall apart =at that temperature is something I will never know, but I have gone over =each one and the glue joints seem strong as before. My best guess is =that for some reason my previous heat treatment was inadequate. Perhaps=I overestimated the time it was in the oven and took it out too soon, or =the temperature dropped considerably from opening the cover too many =times. Jeff Schaeffer Jeff Schaeffer Several days ago I posted a question = ending. Several people suggested that the The= from an Epoxy expert. I did a standard Nyatex heat set treatment, but no = Things were pretty much the same. Another person suggested that the = strip had no pith. I had done the "use your worst culm for your first = approach, but the culm was bad only in the sense that the freight = crushed it and I was lucky to get a single rod. absorbed moisture during the time it was being planed and glued, and = = While eyeing the trash can, I flexed = while casting. Both tips have that "snappy" recovery that was missing = Why they did not fall apart at that temperature is something I will = but I have gone over each one and the glue joints seem strong as before. = guess is that for some reason my previous heat treatment was inadequate.= times. Thanks to everyone for their advice. = Jeff SchaefferManchester, = Schaeffer from mschaffer@mindspring.com Sat May 12 20:12:39 2001 f4D1CcS25448 Subject: Fw: This weekend's activities This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Subject: This weekend's activities We all remember that sunday is Mother's Day, but in some parts of the =country it is also highschool Prom night, so Let's all cross our fingers =that the kids have a fun evening and come home safely! Just my 2 cents worth! Mike From: shaffer wugate,wustl,eduSent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 9:10 PMSubject: This weekend's activities We all remember that sunday isMother's = some parts of the country it is also highschool Prom night, so Let's all = our fingers that the kids have a fun evening and come home =safely! Just my 2 cents worth! Mike from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Sat May 12 20:31:41 2001 f4D1VeS25791 f4D1VfR04603; Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? Yes, just back from fishing. Although the thunder, lightning andtorrential rain did end the evening hatch an hour early. Regards, BobFly Suppliesaflyshop.com from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sat May 12 20:57:24 2001 f4D1vNS26214 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? I wish I could have gone fishing today. Instead I worked in my shopall day. Just like every other day. One of these days, I'll get to gofishing.. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from teekay35@interlynx.net Sat May 12 21:21:12 2001 f4D2LBS26640 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? Have fished 6 days in the past two weeks. Gave the 8' 0", #7 rod a goodworkout on the Ganaraska River. Landed several steelhead in the 10 lb.range. And the rod is still straight!! from vfish@vFish.net Sat May 12 23:12:38 2001 f4D4CbS28305 Subject: I'm back... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I've been off list for 2-3 weeks now... I was enjoying the reduced emails...but I got one email talking about a recent gathering so I just had toresubscribe to get caught up... My mail server is still down at the darrell@rockclimbing.org email addressso I've subscribed using my darrell@vfish.net email address. I just recently discovered that my mailserver switched hosts and sohopefully I'll be able to retrieve my old messages for the last few weeks... If anybody has been trying to reach me... here I am... Darrell LeeBamboo Rod Book Auction I've been off list for 2-3 weeks now... I was enjoying = reduced emails... but I got one email talking about a recent gathering = had to resubscribe to get caught up...My mail server is still = address.I just recently discovered that my mailserver switched = am... from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun May 13 00:59:14 2001 f4D5xDS29503 f4D5xA054275; Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? Nope, sorry, that's not Rugby! Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? In a message dated 5/12/01 4:12:45 PM Central Daylight Time,anglport@con2.com writes: (that's what I believe it's designed to do). Good to see someone ELSEcan'tgo fishing this weekend!Mother's Day indeed!8^)Have a good one with yours,Art >> I would have liked to go fishing, but no such luck. Not only Mother's day('Whaddya MEAN you are not going to make me breakfast in bed!) But Iowaexperienced some really nasty storms in th elast coupleof days. The localcreeks are up and dirty and nasty. We had hail nearly golf ball size theother night! So I went and watched my Son-in-law play Rugby. He is thehooker. good player! Headhunters RULE!!! (28-15 over the dweebs fromClinton!) Fun game, no major injuries, not even any real blood stains!mark visit Magic Mark's home pagehttp://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun May 13 06:41:27 2001 f4DBfQS01868 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Hardy Marksman question Hi all,does anyone know about the Hardy "Marksman"?? There is one for salelocallythat I am thinking of buying if it is in good shape. All I can find out so faraboutthe rod is that it is a 8'3" 2 pc in the Palakona series, the owner is away fortheweekend and that info is from the only tidbit I could find on the internetabout therod.I am presuming it is typically Hardy/British slow action but wassurprisedthat it was 2 pc??? Perhaps it is a trout model?? Anyone have any info, linewt andapproximate value would be really appreciated, but anything else you couldtell meabout the rod would help,TIA,ShawnP.S. I also spotted two (I believe) silk lines, Heddon, I'm going to contact theseller later in the day. from homes-sold@home.com Sun May 13 07:30:16 2001 f4DCUFS02378 femail13.sdc1.sfba.home.com 0700 Subject: List trouble I'm receiving double messages from the list. I'm assuming it's because Ihave signed up for the list on two email accounts. My problem is when I tryto unsubscribe from one of the email accounts i get the following error msg: The message could not be sent because one of the recipients was rejectedbythe server. The rejected e-mail address was 'listproc@mail.wustl.edu'.Subject 'unsubscribe', Account: 'pop3.email.msn.com', Server: Unable to relay for listproc@mail.wustl.edu', Port: 25, Secure(SSL): No,Server Error: 550, Error Number: 0x800CCC79 Any suggestions? from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sun May 13 09:02:38 2001 f4DE2bS04787 HAA18665 HAA10295 0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: Detroit Got up this morning to go to work (Sunday/mothers day overtime) and thesky was falling. Now every one knows that it never rains in Seattle especiallyduring the middle of the drought we have been going through this year. WhenI got to work I was informed that I have to go to Detroit in a couple of weeksand fix a downed airplane. The question I have is, are there any makers outthere in Detroit that I could get a hold of and get a bamboo fix. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sun May 13 09:58:35 2001 f4DEwYS05790 2001 07:58:38 PDT Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? all, i've been fishing. 1lb bluegills aren't brooktrout but they're a gas! timothy --- Peter McKean wrote:Nope, sorry, that's not Rugby! Peter----- Original Message -----From: Cc: Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 9:00 AMSubject: Re: everybody gone fishing? In a message dated 5/12/01 4:12:45 PM CentralDaylight Time,anglport@con2.com writes: worm had overloaded thelist(that's what I believe it's designed to do). Goodto see someone ELSEcan'tgo fishing this weekend!Mother's Day indeed!8^)Have a good one with yours,Art >> I would have liked to go fishing, but no suchluck. Not only Mother's day('Whaddya MEAN you are not going to make mebreakfast in bed!) But Iowaexperienced some really nasty storms in th elastcoupleof days. The localcreeks are up and dirty and nasty. We had hailnearly golf ball size theother night! So I went and watched my Son-in-lawplay Rugby. He is thehooker. good player! Headhunters RULE!!! (28-15over the dweebs fromClinton!) Fun game, no major injuries, not evenany real blood stains!mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from atlasc1@earthlink.net Sun May 13 10:18:10 2001 f4DFI9S06316 IAA20335 Subject: glueing up straight This is a multi-part message in MIME format. On working on my first rod I try to create it in my mind before it is =done in cane. I am working on my first rod which is a Sir D. Planning =went good and I took my time trying to make sure things were done right. =When it came time to glue up the thoughts of how am I going to get and =keep this thing straight. I am using epon and tite bond II for splices =so heat straightening after glue up can be problematic if over heated. =So I had an idea and went to the archives to see who else had the same = pool que to get it straight what can be done to make sure it stays =straight? What I did and others have done similarly is to take the 60 =degree roughing form and lay the section in the groove with two of the =flats being supported on the form ( blank was rubbed down with white =vinegar on a rag to remove Epon). I then took twine and tied it to one =end of the form then proceeded to wrap the blank (mildly) with about 2 =inch wraps from but to tip. After wrapping over the blank I then eyeball =the seams and flats and made a few adjustments while strapped to the =form. I then wrapped it in the other direction. I let it set for an =hour and unwrapped it to see if any corrections need to be made ( none). =I then rewrapped it and let it set for 24 hours. When I finally took it =off the form and removed the string the butt was straight and ready to =go. I know others have used forms for straightening and place weight on =them to hold down the section. Using the twine I was able to make =adjustment while on the form and it prove to be helpful. Maybe this is =common knowledge to some but it came to me as a good idea. I don't claim =it is an original thought of mine, I share it for those of use who don't =want to deal with post glue up straightening. Whew! I usually am not so verbose, Adam Vigil On working on my first rod I try to = mind before it is done in cane. I am working on my first rod which is a = Planning went good and I took my time trying to make sure things were = and keep this thing straight. I am using epon and tite bond II for = heat straightening after glue up can be problematic if over = a pool que to get it straight what can be done to make sure it stays = roughing form and lay the section in the groove with two of the flats = supported on the form ( blank was rubbed down with white vinegar = seams and flats and made a few adjustments while strapped to the form. I = was able to make adjustment while on the form and it prove to be = this is common knowledge to some but it came to me as a good idea. I = it is an original thought of mine, I share it for those of use who don't = deal with post glue up straightening. verbose, AdamVigil from caneman@clnk.com Sun May 13 10:36:25 2001 f4DFaOS06753 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Sun, 13 May 2001 10:04:54 -0500 Subject: Re: everybody gone fishing? One Pound Bluegills? I'm on my way! *S* Bob all, i've been fishing. 1lb bluegills aren't brooktrout but they're a gas! timothy from Canerods@aol.com Sun May 13 13:52:17 2001 f4DIqGS09361 --part1_a7.e601389.283031d6_boundary All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague style step- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males are cracked. I want to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule set but if I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way too large for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use a ferrule sized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to 75 years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in the females. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthen heat or ????????? Don Burns --part1_a7.e601389.283031d6_boundary All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague style step- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males arecracked. I want to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule setbut if I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way too large for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use aferrule sized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to75 years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in the females. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40and then heat or ????????? Don Burns --part1_a7.e601389.283031d6_boundary-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun May 13 14:06:53 2001 f4DJ6pS09731 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set --=====================_95533145==_.ALT I have used CSE super step downs on old SBs and they work great. Of course, Tony could make them too, and he does great work. Send him the old onesand save $50 at least!Bob At 02:52 PM 5/13/2001 -0400, Canerods@aol.com wrote:All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague stylestep- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males are cracked. Iwant to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule set butif I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way toolarge for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use a ferrulesized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to 75years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in thefemales. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthenheat or ????????? Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_95533145==_.ALT I have used CSE super step downs on old SBs and they work great. Ofcourse, Tony could make them too, and he does great work. Send him theold ones and save $50 at least!BobAt 02:52 PM 5/13/2001 -0400, Canerods@aol.com wrote:All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montaguestyle step-down female ferrule. But the female and the two males are cracked. I want to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule setbut if I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way too large for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use aferrule sized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to75 years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in the females. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthen heat or ????????? Don Burns Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_95533145==_.ALT-- from dutcher@email.msn.com Sun May 13 16:19:39 2001 f4DLJcS11479 Sun, 13 May 2001 14:19:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set FILETIME=[6A1F7930:01C0DBF2] Hi Don, I am going to cast my vote for pulling the old ferrules and shippingthem off to Tony. I think turning down a ferrule station is asking forfuture disaster. Building up a ferrule station is better but, a compromiseat best. Custom ferrules will give you exactly what you want, Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message -----From: Canerods@aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:52 AMSubject: Replacing old ferule set All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague stylestep- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males are cracked. Iwant to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule setbutif I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way toolarge for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use a ferrulesized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to 75years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in thefemales. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthenheat or ????????? Don Burns from horsesho@ptd.net Sun May 13 16:35:49 2001 f4DLZmS11819 0000 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set --------------B4459917C070AF0C1C49E890 Get a set of Super SD (step down) ferrules from Bailey Wood (ClassicSporting Enterprises). He makes them as replacements for Montague andother prodution type rods that used SD ferrules. I am sure Tony can setyou up also. This is the best way to go although a sleeve would workfine.. Better than fooling with the ferrule station dimensions. Marty Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montaguestylestep- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males arecracked. Iwant to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferruleset butif I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are waytoolarge for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use aferrulesized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new maleferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50to 75years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up inthefemales. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthenheat or ????????? Don Burns --------------B4459917C070AF0C1C49E890 Get a set of Super SD (step down) ferrules from Bailey Wood (ClassicSportingEnterprises). He makes them as replacements for Montague and otherprodutiontype rods that used SD ferrules. I am sure Tony can set you up also. Thisis the best way to go although a sleeve would work fine.. Better than foolingwith the ferrule station dimensions. MartyCanerods@aol.com wrote:All,I'm rebuilding an old 7'6"(2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague stylestep-down female ferrule.But the female and the two males are cracked. Iwant to replace the ferruleset with an old high quality NS ferrule set butif I match the female ferrulestation then the male ferrules are way toolarge for thetips.Which isbetter:1) Turn down the butt toallow the female ferrule to fit and use a ferrulesized to fit thetips.Or2) Sleeve the male ferrulesand match the female to the butt section.2A - Use thread to buildup the male ferrule stationor2B - use the old maleferrulesas sleeves inside the new male ferrules.Or maybe3) Forget it and buy acustomset of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classicferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to 75years old and the males(2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in thefemales. How would you getthem apart after all these years? WD-40 and thenheat or?????????Don Burns --------------B4459917C070AF0C1C49E890-- from JAQFOLL@worldnet.att.net Sun May 13 19:11:02 2001 f4E0B1S13598 +0000 Subject: Bamboo flooring I just read an article in today's paper that bamboo flooring is beingintroduced to the building trade as a good substitute for oak. Article alsosaid that it takes many years to grow an oak to lumber size however in threeyears bamboo can be harvested for use in flooring. This is really scary. Isure hope that they are not interested in Tonkin cane and stick to the otherstuff. Jack from martinj@aa.net Sun May 13 20:02:12 2001 f4E12BS14442 Sun, 13 May 2001 18:02:09 -0700 Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring You better hope they are! Increased demand means more bamboo. More likelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want.Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Bamboo flooring I just read an article in today's paper that bamboo flooring is beingintroduced to the building trade as a good substitute for oak. Article alsosaid that it takes many years to grow an oak to lumber size however in threeyears bamboo can be harvested for use in flooring. This is really scary. Isure hope that they are not interested in Tonkin cane and stick to the otherstuff. Jack from owen@davies.mv.com Sun May 13 22:06:02 2001 f4E361S15979 Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand means more bamboo. Morelikelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I can cite acounter-example. One of my other interests is the constructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material for the modelsthat interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitka spruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of the FAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the best strength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so it was cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce of aircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in California gasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the older modelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problem is, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up. The market rod-quality bamboo--that no one can be bothered picking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to be turned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happen to Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without good cause. Owen Davies from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sun May 13 22:35:14 2001 f4E3ZDS16489 2001 20:35:16 PDT Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring speaking of tonkin, does anyone have a source for verylarge diameter tonkin? timothy --- Owen Davies wrote:Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand meansmore bamboo. More likelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I cancite acounter-example. One of my other interests is theconstructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material that interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitkaspruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of theFAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the beststrength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so itwas cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce ofaircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in Californiagasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the oldermodelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problemis, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up. The market the market forrod-quality bamboo--that no one can be botheredpicking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to beturned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happento Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without goodcause. Owen Davies ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from robert.kope@prodigy.net Sun May 13 23:13:46 2001 f4E4DjS17287 f4E4Diw259726;Mon, 14 May 2001 00:13:45 -0400 Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Andy Royer sells what he calls big ugly culms. These are up to 3" indiameter, but tend to have more defects than smaller culms. I got one ofthese in the silent auction at Corbett Lake last year and it is amazing bothin terms of diameter and depth of fibers. Tonkin cane doesn't get anybigger than this. -- Robert Kope----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring speaking of tonkin, does anyone have a source for verylarge diameter tonkin? timothy --- Owen Davies wrote:Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand meansmore bamboo. More likelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I cancite acounter-example. One of my other interests is theconstructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material that interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitkaspruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of theFAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the beststrength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so itwas cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce ofaircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in Californiagasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the oldermodelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problemis, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up.The market the market forrod-quality bamboo--that no one can be botheredpicking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to beturned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happento Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without goodcause. Owen Davies ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from richjez@enteract.com Sun May 13 23:39:51 2001 f4E4dpS18787 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set --=====================_11105068==_.ALT Isn't it interesting that Tony is the lists favorite four letter word. (Sorry I couldn't t resist.)Rich At 04:19 PM 5/13/01, dutcher wrote:Hi Don, I am going to cast my vote for pulling the old ferrules and shippingthem off to Tony. I think turning down a ferrule station is asking forfuture disaster. Building up a ferrule station is better but, a compromiseat best. Custom ferrules will give you exactly what you want, Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message -----From: Canerods@aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:52 AMSubject: Replacing old ferule set All, I'm rebuilding an old 7'6" (2/2) rod. It was made with a Montague stylestep- down female ferrule. But the female and the two males are cracked.Iwant to replace the ferrule set with an old high quality NS ferrule setbutif I match the female ferrule station then the male ferrules are way toolarge for the tips. Which is better: 1) Turn down the butt to allow the female ferrule to fit and use a ferrulesized to fit the tips. Or 2) Sleeve the male ferrules and match the female to the butt section. 2A - Use thread to build up the male ferrule station or 2B - use the old male ferrules as sleeves inside the new male ferrules. Or maybe 3) Forget it and buy a custom set of ferrules from Tony Young. Related question. The classic ferrule sets that I want to use are 50 to 75years old and the males (2 ferrule sets to be use) are seized up in thefemales. How would you get them apart after all these years? WD-40 andthenheat or ????????? Don Burns *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@/||/____/||_________________________________________||/\))):> > ))):> --=====================_11105068==_.ALT Isn't it interesting that Tony is the lists favorite fourletter word. (Sorry I couldn't t resist.)Rich At 04:19 PM 5/13/01, dutcher wrote:Hi Don, ferrules and shippingthem off to Tony. I think turning down a ferrule station is askingforfuture disaster. Building up a ferrule station is better but, acompromiseat best. Custom ferrules will give you exactly what you want, Regards,Dick Richard R. Dutcherdutcher@msn.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------= ---- Montague style cracked. I ferrule setbut way too ferrule section. ferrules. Young. 50 to 75 in the andthen *_____________ ___________________) @/ ||/ ____/||_________________________________________ p;/\ ; / bsp; --=====================_11105068==_.ALT-- from martinj@aa.net Mon May 14 00:23:17 2001 f4E5NGS19709 Sun, 13 May 2001 22:23:17 -0700 Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring You do bring up a good point and one that I HAD thought of. My thinking isthat the bamboo rod building community does not buy enough to support anindustry. If not for flooring and or scaffolding uses then we would probablyhave to fish with plastic. I know they use it for scaffolding, I don't knowhow big the market is on flooring though. Probably don't "need" tonkin forflooring anyway. I'm glad they use it for scaffolding... Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand means more bamboo. Morelikelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I can cite acounter-example. One of my other interests is the constructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material for the modelsthat interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitka spruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of the FAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the best strength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so it was cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce of aircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in California gasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the older modelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problem is, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up. The market rod-quality bamboo--that no one can be bothered picking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to be turned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happen to Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without good cause. Owen Davies from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon May 14 00:49:45 2001 f4E5niS20162 "Carl O'Connor" , "James Bond" Subject: Grand Gathering/Canadian cane The Canadian Cane/Grand Gathering, May 26, 27 is shaping up well. Atthis time we have nearly 70 rod makers registered. Our accommodation islimited to 80 persons, so if you are thinking about registration you shouldcontact me now. site at www.pathcom.com/~blades from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon May 14 04:02:36 2001 f4E92YS22343 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set Thank you.........I think.............probably................... :-) At 11:40 PM 5/13/01 -0500, Rich Jezioro wrote: Isn't it interesting that Tony is the lists favorite four letter word.(SorryI couldn't t resist.)Rich At 04:19 PM 5/13/01, dutcher wrote: Hi Don, I am going to cast my vote for pulling the old ferrules and shippingthem off to Tony. I think turning down a ferrule station is asking forfuture disaster. Building up a ferrule station is better but, a compromiseat best. Custom ferrules will give you exactly what you want, Regards,Dick /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you love a thing let it go,If it returns it's yours,If it doesn't, hunt it down and kill it. /**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon May 14 04:02:38 2001 f4E92aS22344 Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring I've seen bamboo flooring and it's very nice stuff, like to use it myselfsome time. Looks like it's split in half, steamed and flattened. Looks alot like maple in colour with very straight "grain" and the nodes give anice regular pattern that is un regular enough to be interesting if youknow what I mean. You'd mistake it for wood unless you were looking for itand certainly anybody not interested in bamboo in some way would tell anydif at all and take it for timber.Without knowing the full environmental impact of growing bamboo I'd havethought it was a lot less wastefull to grow grass for flooring than timber.It's hard to imagine this affecting rod making bamboo in any negative waybecause it's alreadt used for so many things already that rods would haveto represent a very minor percentage of the total grown though theDemarests would be the best people to say.Actually if flooring etc became more common it may actually gaurenteesupply for all time. Bamboo is a fast crop unlike Sitka or timber ingeneral, more like hay almost so although it's a quick return it takesspace and it's not as good a return as tabaco or state sanctioned opium forexample and because China is now a place where individuals can make money level growing it may not be very appealing so the farmers may one day turnthe land over to another crop. Tony At 10:24 PM 5/13/01 -0700, Martin Jensen wrote:You do bring up a good point and one that I HAD thought of. My thinking isthat the bamboo rod building community does not buy enough to support anindustry. If not for flooring and or scaffolding uses then we would probablyhave to fish with plastic. I know they use it for scaffolding, I don't knowhow big the market is on flooring though. Probably don't "need" tonkin forflooring anyway. I'm glad they use it for scaffolding... Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:06 PM Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand means more bamboo. Morelikelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I can cite acounter-example. One of my other interests is the constructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material for the modelsthat interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitka spruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of the FAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the best strength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so it was cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce of aircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in California gasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the older modelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problem is, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up. The market rod-quality bamboo--that no one can be bothered picking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to be turned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happen to Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without good cause. Owen Davies /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you love a thing let it go,If it returns it's yours,If it doesn't, hunt it down and kill it. /**************************************************************************/ from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon May 14 08:42:19 2001 f4EDgIS26685 GAA11697 GAA24298 (5.5.2650.21) "'JAQFOLL@worldnet.att.net'" Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring Andy royer, one of our bamboo suppliers sells or used to sell bamboo flooringand the stuff is beautiful and long wearing. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 5:10 PM Subject: Bamboo flooring I just read an article in today's paper that bamboo flooring is beingintroduced to the building trade as a good substitute for oak. Article alsosaid that it takes many years to grow an oak to lumber size however inthreeyears bamboo can be harvested for use in flooring. This is really scary. Isure hope that they are not interested in Tonkin cane and stick to theotherstuff. Jack from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Mon May 14 11:31:32 2001 f4EGVVS03667 2001 09:31:35 PDT Subject: Re: Bamboo Sources owen@davies.mv.com, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu The Bamboo BrokerAndy Royerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fx --- Rex Tutor wrote: SO what's the contactinfo for you bamboo source , Andy Royer ?thanks, ---- Begin Original Message ---- From: "Robert Kope" Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Andy Royer sells what he calls big ugly culms. Theseare up to 3" indiameter, but tend to have more defects than smallerculms. I got one ofthese in the silent auction at Corbett Lake last yearand it is amazing bothin terms of diameter and depth of fibers. Tonkin canedoesn't get anybigger than this. -- Robert Kope----- Original Message -----From: "timothy troester" Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring very wrote: demand means we want. Unfortunately, I can is the material Sitka of the best available, so it of California the older Problem up. of like bothered to be happen without good E.A.Poe __________________________________________________ great prices ---- End Original Message ---- Sign up for a free About Emailaccount at http://About.com ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great priceshttp://auctions.yahoo.com/ from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon May 14 13:18:38 2001 f4EIIcS07847 12B34BEF6 Subject: Canadian Cane Rod Gathering At this point we have an excellent program and nearly 70 people registered.Our cut-off point is 80. A list of program topics goes in the mail today accommodation, see our web site www.pathcom.com/~blades from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Mon May 14 13:52:54 2001 f4EIqrS09445 Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring read the Angler's Bamboo by Luis Marden. the vast majority of the tonkincane crop goes to europe and asia for use in funiture making, garden stakes(and in the old days ski poles). something i didn't know before (i jsut recently got a copy of the book) isthat charles demarest, father of harold demarest, was responsible forhelping to accidentally discover tonkin cane as a rod making material. atthe time he was importing rugs, and tonkin was used for carpet poles.McClure and the early rodmakers got a hold of some, and the rest is history. chris -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Bamboo flooring You do bring up a good point and one that I HAD thought of. My thinking isthat the bamboo rod building community does not buy enough to support anindustry. If not for flooring and or scaffolding uses then we would probablyhave to fish with plastic. I know they use it for scaffolding, I don't knowhow big the market is on flooring though. Probably don't "need" tonkin forflooring anyway. I'm glad they use it for scaffolding... Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring Martin Jensen hopefully observed: You better hope they are! Increased demand means more bamboo. Morelikelythat we will be able to get the bamboo we want. It certainly sounds reasonable. Unfortunately, I can cite acounter-example. One of my other interests is the constructionand restoration of airplanes. A critical material for the modelsthat interest me is extremely-straight grain Sitka spruce. Thereare alternatives, but NACA, the forerunner of the FAA, choseSitka because it had pretty much the best strength-to-weightratio available and it was readily available, so it was cheap. Fast-forward about 75 years. Sitka spruce of aircraft qualityis worth a lot more than its weight in California gasoline,and pieces large enough to restore some of the older modelswith big wings essentially can't be had. Problem is, in thelast 15 years or so, other demand has sprung up. The market rod-quality bamboo--that no one can be bothered picking it outof the ship loads that go to Japan every day to be turned intocardboard boxes. This does not mean that the same thing will happen to Tonkincane, but I didn't become a pessimist without good cause. Owen Davies from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Mon May 14 15:35:37 2001 f4EKZaS13908 Subject: RE: scarf ferruled Sir D quad Hi danny. i built the blank to specs using the quad conversion of the sir Ddeveloped by bob malucci.i extended the sections an extra five inches at the ferrule ends to allow made previously for a rod repair to plane the ends to be scarfed. thetapered ends of the scarf tabs should be at right angles (perpendicular) tothe guide flat. this allows maximal immobilization by the tape used tosecure the joint (if the scarf plane was parellel to the guide flat therewould be extreme shearing forcesi then made re-inforcing tabs to support the thin end-tabs of the scarffollowing the recommendations of jocelyn de lespinay ( from the frenchrodmakers club) that was published several years ago in the planing form.these consist of small triangular pieces of cane, planed also in thescarfing block, that are the length of the finnished scarf. these are thenglued enamel side to enamel along the sides of the rod shaft at the scarftabs. the entire rod was finnished with dipped polyurethane, including the flatsurfaces of the scarf tabs and reinforcements (which i think is criticalsince these are open end grain which could readily absorb water). the rod is assembled to be fished by placing the flats of the scarfstogether, reinforcing tabs out, and taping with electrical tape (color ofyour choice; i use black to match the blackened reel seat and guides). whenassembled there is a small diamonded shaped swell under the tape,perpendicular to the guide flats. the advantages seen so far are that there is no non-flexing metal tube inthe middle of the rod to interrupt the rod action; the rod bends as onecontinuous unit from tip to handle (like a one piece rod, but without thedifficulties of storing and transporting a one piece). also the rod isincredibly light, and feels lighter yet because the weight of a ferrule(which moves the balance of the rod out toward the tip) is absent, thereforethe entire weight of the rod feels like it is right in the casting hand. i am planning to build a second rod to this taper, possibly with bambooferrules or conventional metal ferrules. this will allow comparison of anytrue differences in casting action (and will give me a rod to fish with - myfiance loves the rod and has already appropriated it for her own personaluse). chris -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Gathering Recap Hi Christopher, The scarf jointed, ferrule-less quad produced by christopherobuchowski (taper provided by bob malucci who converted the 7 foot 4/5wtsir D taper originated by wayne cattanach) raised someeyebrows due to the extremely light weight ........I would be veryinterested in hearing more about the scarfing, did You make a swell at the "ferrule station", or did You just make the rod as normal, and scarf it? I`ve seen some Sharps salmon spey rods made that way, they did have a swell at the scarf.............. TIA,danny from bob@downandacross.com Mon May 14 16:57:37 2001 f4ELvaS17217 May 2001 17:57:32 -0400 Subject: items for sale --=====================_7364243==_.ALT If anyone is interested in a used Bellinger binder and/or a GW rod wrapper, could you contact me off-list? Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_7364243==_.ALT If anyone is interested in a used Bellinger binder and/or a GW rodwrapper, could you contact me off-list? Thanks, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_7364243==_.ALT-- from RONGEY@aol.com Mon May 14 18:33:38 2001 f4ENXcS19726 Subject: bamboo flooring --part1_bd.e7d1136.2831c54a_boundary We recently had a bamboo floor installed as part of a kitchen renovatopm project. It really is beautiful with a soft caramel color and subtle node pattern. I tried to put blemishes on a sample prior to installation. As you mught imagine, it is quite hard and durable. Ken Rongey --part1_bd.e7d1136.2831c54a_boundary We recently had abamboo floor installed as part of a kitchen renovatopm It really is beautiful with a soft caramel color and subtle node pattern. mught imagine, it is quite hard and durable. Ken Rongey --part1_bd.e7d1136.2831c54a_boundary-- from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Mon May 14 19:14:18 2001 f4F0EHS20381 Mon, 14 May 2001 21:13:30 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: bamboo flooring --------------929EB04B03807EE7892B762E Bet my kitchen floor would look awesome in FLAMED CANE! Glidden even has apaintcolor called "bamboo" , hmmmm.... perhaps my new shop would lookbetter???Shawn RONGEY@aol.com wrote: We recently had a bamboo floor installed as part of a kitchen renovatopmproject. It really is beautiful with a soft caramel color and subtle node pattern. I tried to put blemishes on a sample prior to installation. As you mughtimagine, it is quite hard and durable. Ken Rongey --------------929EB04B03807EE7892B762E Bet my kitchen floor would look awesome in FLAMED CANE! Glidden even hasa paint color called "bamboo" , hmmmm.... perhaps my new shop would lookbetter??? ShawnRONGEY@aol.com wrote:Werecentlyhad a bamboo floor installed as part of a kitchen renovatopmproject.It really is beautiful witha soft caramel color and subtle node pattern.I tried to put blemishes imagine, it is quite hardand durable.KenRongey --------------929EB04B03807EE7892B762E-- from jojo@ipa.net Mon May 14 20:25:44 2001 f4F1PeS21604 Subject: Re: Bamboo flooring I've got some. It's called Plyboo. Great stuff.www.onlinefloorstore.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/plyboo.html M-D From: "Jacques Follweiler" I just read an article in today's paper that bamboo flooring is beingintroduced to the building trade as a good substitute for oak. Articlealsosaid that it takes many years to grow an oak to lumber size however inthreeyears bamboo can be harvested for use in flooring. This is really scary. Isure hope that they are not interested in Tonkin cane and stick to theotherstuff. Jack from jojo@ipa.net Mon May 14 20:28:02 2001 f4F1S1S21800 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Rich, Tony! Tony it to Tony. You dirty, rotten Tony. Whatsamatter, can't get = M-D Isn't it interesting that Tony is the lists favorite four letter word. =(Sorry I couldn't t resist.)Rich Rich, Tony! Tony it to Tony.= rotten Tony. Whatsamatter, can't get your Tony together? Well, I'll be a = a Tony. M-D Jezioro resist.)Rich from jojo@ipa.net Mon May 14 20:29:15 2001 f4F1TES21956 Subject: Re: Replacing old ferule set Tony you too, Tony. M-D Thank you.........I think.............probably................... :-) At 11:40 PM 5/13/01 -0500, Rich Jezioro wrote: Isn't it interesting that Tony is the lists favorite four letter word.(SorryI couldn't t resist.)Rich At 04:19 PM 5/13/01, dutcher wrote: Hi Don, I am going to cast my vote for pulling the old ferrules andshippingthem off to Tony. I think turning down a ferrule station is asking forfuture disaster. Building up a ferrule station is better but, acompromiseat best. Custom ferrules will give you exactly what you want, Regards,Dick /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you love a thing let it go,If it returns it's yours,If it doesn't, hunt it down and kill it. /**************************************************************************/ from Grhghlndr@aol.com Tue May 15 10:22:14 2001 f4FFMDS05468 Subject: How close is too close? What is the general concensious of how close the stripping guide should lay to the butt of the rod? I usually try and put it no closer than 22"s but I am doing a 6'3" two piece rod right now and when I lay out for spacing (with a guide right below the ferrule) I come up with only about 20"s from the butt line coming off the reel for smooth casting. Any thoughts on this one?Bret from SBDunn@aol.com Tue May 15 10:33:02 2001 f4FFX1S06046 Subject: Re: How close is too close? --part1_a4.142f20c7.2832a5fc_boundary I think it has more to do with the size of the fisherman than the fly rod. The position of the stripper should not interfere with the casters normal stripping action. Regards, Steve. --part1_a4.142f20c7.2832a5fc_boundary I think it has more to do The position of the stripper should not interfere with the castersnormal stripping action. Regards, Steve. --part1_a4.142f20c7.2832a5fc_boundary-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Tue May 15 10:33:52 2001 f4FFXqS06141 Subject: Re: How close is too close? rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu oh yeh, i have tried different formulas and programs to lay this out, keeping a guide by the ferrule and i eother come up with the 20" mark or it lays out to 27"s. i think this is too far at 27"s any thoughts on that one?B from GRNMTRODS@aol.com Tue May 15 10:37:41 2001 f4FFbeS06460 Subject: Grayrock 2001 --part1_15.1445b3ca.2832a726_boundary Hello anyone, I've lost my paper work on Grayrock. Does anyone have any info. Like where to go, times ,and planned events. Thanks, Jim --part1_15.1445b3ca.2832a726_boundary Hello anyone, I've lost my paper work on Grayrock. Does anyone have any info. Likewhere to go, times ,and planned events. Thanks, Jim --part1_15.1445b3ca.2832a726_boundary-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue May 15 10:38:10 2001 f4FFc9S06580 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 15 May 2001 08:37:42 -0700 Subject: Re: How close is too close? f4FFc9S06581 With longer, heavier rods I keep my elbow lower and closer to my body whencasting so a stripper guide farther away would be best. With tiny rods Ioften raise my arm higher to get the rod higher off the water, and in doingso, having the stripper guide closer to the grip would be fine for me. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu 05/15/01 08:21AM >>>What is the general concensious of how close the stripping guide should lay to the butt of the rod? I usually try and put it no closer than 22"s but I am doing a 6'3" two piece rod right now and when I lay out for spacing (with a guide right below the ferrule) I come up with only about 20"s from the butt line coming off the reel for smooth casting. Any thoughts on this one?Bret from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Tue May 15 11:06:12 2001 f4FG6CS08020 LAA23616 JAA00262 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: How close is too close? I don't know about you but I usually kick mine over to the next flat left orright, depending on whether the guy is right or left handed, of the one thereel lines up with so the line comes in and out of the guides with less of anangle than if it lined up with the reel. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 8:21 AM Subject: How close is too close? What is the general concensious of how close the stripping guide should lay to the butt of the rod? I usually try and put it no closer than 22"s but I am doing a 6'3" two piece rod right now and when I lay out for spacing (with a guide right below the ferrule) I come up with only about 20"s from thebutt line coming off the reel for smooth casting. Any thoughts on this one?Bret from rodsupstream@exploremaine.com Tue May 15 11:09:32 2001 f4FG9VS08259 0400 Subject: Re: How close is too close? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. The first stripping guide is a balance between line transition and theperson's physical needs. The rule of thumb is to measure the distant of thecasting arm from the person's arm pit to the middle finger and add 2 inches.You than do a static test to see how this is lining up, next tape the rodtogether and have the person cast and drop the line to see if he can easilypick up the dropped line and the transition from the reel to the guide hasbeen optimized. If you would like to try a little experiment place the next snake after thestripping guide 100 m.m. or about 4 inches up the blank, it makes adifference in the amount of line you can cast over all. I have configured mypersonnel fly rods in this manner and once shown to clients they elect touse this configuration. Looks different but it really does work. Take care,Tim. Upstream Always Tim DoughtyRodmaker Normal0DocumentEmail The first stripping guide is a balance between line transition =and theperson=92s physical needs. The rule of thumb is to measure the distant =of thecasting arm from the person=92s arm pit to the middle finger and add 2 =inches.You than do a static test to see how this is lining up, next tape the =rodtogether and have the person cast and drop the line to see if he can =easilypick up the dropped line and the transition from the reel to the guide =has beenoptimized. If you would like to try a little experiment place the next snake =afterthe stripping guide 100 m.m. or about 4 inches up the blank, it makes adifference in the amount of line you can cast over all. I have =configured mypersonnel fly rods in this manner and once shown to clients they elect =to usethis configuration. Looks different but it really does work. Take care, =Tim. =A0AUTOTEXTLIST \s "E-mail =Signature" Upstream =Always Tim Doughty Rodmaker from parataper@hotmail.com Tue May 15 11:18:30 2001 f4FGITS08852 Tue, 15 May 2001 09:18:28 -0700 HTTP; Tue, 15 May 2001 16:18:27 GMT FILETIME=[ACB91620:01C0DD5A] Hi, would anyone using the dissolved Plexiglas formula to stabilize wood contact me off list. Thanks, MP_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Tue May 15 13:34:38 2001 f4FIYbS13522 Tue, 15 May 2001 15:33:58 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Mark,sounds interesting, you might want to share this one?? Perhaps this isjustthe conversation we need to liven up the list! It has been a little dull herelately. Shawn mark petrie wrote: Hi, would anyone using the dissolved Plexiglas formula to stabilize woodcontact me off list. Thanks, MP _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from anglport@con2.com Tue May 15 15:07:46 2001 f4FK7kS17374 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: How close is too close? Bret,I used this on a 6'3" er. 4.00 8.57 13.71 19.43 25.71 32.57 40.00 48.00 That may put the stripper too far away for your taste (at 27" from thebutt), but at least you can reach out to strip line without overreaching it.This was done with the Clemens formula. It requires the 8 guides as 7screws up. The general rule with that formula is you need one more guidethan the no. of feet in the rod or you'll get a ferrule smack dab on theferrule. If you want to try 6, it suggests this spacing. 4.00 9.60 16.80 25.60 36.00 48.00 If you want to send the no. of guides, the dist. down for the first guide,and the dist. UP for the stripper, I can run them through the formula. Ifyou have Excel '97, I'll send you the Sheet and you can run your own.Art At 11:21 AM 05/15/2001 EDT, Grhghlndr@aol.com wrote:What is the general concensious of how close the stripping guide should lay to the butt of the rod? I usually try and put it no closer than 22"s but I am doing a 6'3" two piece rod right now and when I lay out for spacing (with a guide right below the ferrule) I come up with only about 20"s from thebutt of line coming off the reel for smooth casting. Any thoughts on this one?Bret from robert.kope@prodigy.net Tue May 15 18:35:28 2001 f4FNZSS22746 f4FNZSq135192;Tue, 15 May 2001 19:35:28 -0400 Subject: Re: How close is too close? I use the simple geometric progression for guide spacing outlined in Wayne'sbook with the stripper just below the butt ferrule on the 3-pc and the firstsnake just below the ferrule on a 2-pc. I've never made a 6'3" rod, but ona 6'8" 2-pc rod that puts the stripper at about 29.5" from the butt. Iguess I don't think 27" is too far. -- Robert----- Original Message ----- Subject: How close is too close? What is the general concensious of how close the stripping guide shouldlayto the butt of the rod? I usually try and put it no closer than 22"s butIam doing a 6'3" two piece rod right now and when I lay out for spacing(witha guide right below the ferrule) I come up with only about 20"s from thebutt ofline coming off the reel for smooth casting. Any thoughts on this one?Bret from bob@downandacross.com Tue May 15 19:17:54 2001 f4G0HrS23483 May 2001 20:17:47 -0400 Subject: items for sale are gone --=====================_15224746==_.ALT The binder and wrapper are sold and paid for. Thanks to everyone who replied off list. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_15224746==_.ALT The binder and wrapper are sold and paid for. Thanks to everyone whoreplied off list. Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_15224746==_.ALT-- from mgjanik@yahoo.com Tue May 15 20:08:48 2001 f4G18lS24266 2001 18:08:51 PDT Subject: Guide spacing for Driggs River? 989975331=:32771" --0-846930886-989975331=:32771 Could someone please email me the guide spacing for a PHY Driggs RiverSpecial? I have scoured the web as best I can and can't find it. Thanks! Mike ---------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?--0-846930886-989975331=:32771 Could someone please email me the guide spacing for a PHY Driggs River Yahoo! Auctions $2 MillionSweepstakes - Got something to sell?--0- 846930886-989975331=:32771-- from mgjanik@yahoo.com Tue May 15 20:13:50 2001 f4G1DnS24518 2001 18:13:33 PDT Subject: What do you do for moisture/dust control? 989975613=:11579" --0-424238335-989975613=:11579 Just wondering how some of you guys solve the moisture and dust controlproblems in your workshops. I straightened a bunch of strips only to go downto the basement (my ONLY option for workspace) and find them crookedagain a few days later. I am sure when I get into the finishing stages dustwill be trouble too. Thanks ~ Mike ---------------------------------Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?--0-424238335-989975613=:11579 Just wondering how some of you guys solve the moisture and dust control go down to the basement (my ONLY option for workspace) and find them Yahoo! Auctions $2 MillionSweepstakes - Got something to sell?--0- 424238335-989975613=:11579-- from bob@downandacross.com Tue May 15 20:47:05 2001 f4G1l3S25260 Subject: Re: What do you do for moisture/dust control? --=====================_20582717==_.ALT Hi Mike:Store butt and tip sections separately in 3" tubes with big dessicant packs at the bottom. (American Science Surplus) Dehumidifers work okay too ifyou remember to dump the water! Personally, I think that once you heat trea, you have limited the amount that will return. I don't sweat it, especially when using PU glue to glue up. IT using the ambient moisture and sucks the water right out as it catalyzes/foams. it changes the air in my room 12 times an hour. If you get into the habit of spraying the varnishing room first with water, the dust is minimized.Best regards,Bob At 06:13 PM 5/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:Just wondering how some of you guys solve the moisture and dust control problems in your workshops. I straightened a bunch of strips only to go down to the basement (my ONLY option for workspace) and find themcrooked again a few days later. I am sure when I get into the finishing stages dust will be trouble too. Thanks ~ Mike Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_20582717==_.ALT Hi Mike:Store butt and tip sections separately in 3" tubes with bigdessicant packs at the bottom. (American Science Surplus) Dehumidiferswork okay too if you remember to dump the water! Personally, I think thatonce you heat trea, you have limited the amount that will return. I don'tsweat it, especially when using PU glue to glue up. IT using the ambientmoisture and sucks the water right out as it catalyzes/foams. and it changes the air in my room 12 times an hour. If you get into thehabit of spraying the varnishing room first with water, the dust isminimized. Best regards,BobAt 06:13 PM 5/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:Just wondering how some of you guys straightened a bunch of strips only to go down to the basement (my ONLY I am sure when I get into the finishing stages dust will be trouble Do You Yahoo!?Yahoo!Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell? Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_20582717==_.ALT-- from Troutgetter@aol.com Tue May 15 21:40:31 2001 f4G2eUS26181 Subject: Re: How close is too close? rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu --part1_86.a9909cc.28334273_boundary Bret,The strippers I've placed on 6'3"s have been about 27" fron the bottom ofthe reel seat, or about 18" from the top of the grip as I build a 6" grip. I have found this comfortable for me. Shoots line just fine and the numbers where taken from Wayne's guide program. Too easy! Mike --part1_86.a9909cc.28334273_boundary Bret,The strippers I've placed on 6'3"s have been about 27" fron the bottomof the reel seat, or about 18" from the top of the grip as I build a 6" grip. Ihave found this comfortable for me. Shoots line just fine and the numberswhere taken from Wayne's guide program. Too easy! Mike --part1_86.a9909cc.28334273_boundary-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Wed May 16 09:45:18 2001 f4GEjIS06502 Subject: dial indicator --part1_be.1491a33c.2833ec53_boundary I have a fairly new dial indicator for sale with a hardwood/maple base and 60 degree point I would like to sell. If anyone is interested contact me off list.Bret --part1_be.1491a33c.2833ec53_boundary I have a fairly new dial indicator for sale with a hardwood/maple baseand 60 me off list.Bret --part1_be.1491a33c.2833ec53_boundary-- from Dennishigham@cs.com Wed May 16 11:04:53 2001 f4GG4qS09511 Subject: Re: How close is too close? I used the following spacing on the last 6'3" I did...4 1/4, 9 1/8, 14 1/2, 20 1/2, 27 1/4, 34 3/8, 42, 50 1/2. Leaves 24 1/2" from stripper to butt cap. Dennis from stuart.rod@gmx.de Wed May 16 12:13:43 2001 f4GHDgS11967 Subject: Methods Hi List, recently Ralf Ladda and I visited Walter Brunner, an internationallyknown rodmaker, in Austria. He was a very kind and informative man whowas willing to share his knowledge and expert advice on bamboorodmaking. His shop, situated in Steyr in Austria is a Bamboo rodmakersparadise. I am sure that the methods he uses are not only used by him,but they do differ from the usual rodmakers ways. Walter Brunner is 74and has been making rods since the second world war. He designed rods He has been a professional rodmaker for a very long time. Heat Treating: The culm is split by hand and then the nodal damm isremoved with a disc sander. Then all the strips are strapped to a solidmetal pipe. The metal pipe is then hung on a slow revolving hook and anelectric oven consisting of two elements about a foot in height andmounted either side of the pipe is moved up and down parallel to theculm by a motor and chain setup while the culm is rotated. The entire(split) culm is then heat treated until a certain brown tone is achieved (it is a very light colour). I suppose the process is a bit likeelectric flaming. All treated strips are kept in a warm box at 40ŸC. Straightening: The bends and curves between the nodes are straightenedand then the nodes themselves are straightened using a heat gun. At this point the enamel and the lip on the node are STILL INTACT. There hasbeen no filing done. He then pesses the node with a vertical press which has a jaw with a small recess cut into it to accomodate the nodal lip!!The strips are now flat and straight with only the lip to file offbefore bevelling. This means that his strips do not recieve a primary bevel and nodes donot pop back out during heat treating because it is done before the node is pressed. The strips are then final tapered in an amazing machine that he designed himself which lifts the strip on a pivoted bed into the cutters. He does not remove the pith before tapering, it is removed during the bevellingprocess. Then he glues .Then ferrules. Then varnishing is done by hand rubbing one coat of varnish with anylon stocking and a further two coats with a brush. The finish is perfect. He allowed Ralf and I to cast one of his rods, he makes only short dryfly rods, called Amabile.......what a rod, so much power with so littleeffort. As a stress graph it looks a little (very, very little) like BobNunleys 6' 0'' 4 Weight. Very stiff compared to a Sir D for instance,but what a fantastic feeling of line control. So the most interesting part is not putting a primary bevel into thestrips. Can hand planers also save this part of the process? I am making a rod at the moment skipping the primary bevel and heat treating stripsbound to a pipe in my Neunemann oven.I have removed the nodal lip and will straighten and press nodes soon. What do you think? Stuart from caneman@clnk.com Wed May 16 12:45:58 2001 f4GHjvS13396 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Methods Stuart,A couple of years back I bought some cane that had been heat treated asa whole culm (It had a check split in it, but nothing else). The cane wasbeautifully toned and needed no further heat treating. I made a couple offly rods and a spinning rod for a friend from it and the only problem I saw,was that this stuff planed like IRON! It was tough! For hand planing, Idon't think I'd use it again, but if I did have a power mill, then Iwouldn't have to worry about the extra aches and pains of hand planing itand would give it another shot... still have a bit of it laying aroundsomewhere, and at the rate I'm going on it, my power mill will be perfectedsometime close to the end of the next decade or two, so maybe someday I'lltry it again! *S*I do like the idea of pressing the nodes without filing the lip.Hmmmmm... may have to run to the hardware store and buy a vice I can millarecess in to give this a shot. It would certainly seem that it woulddecrease the visible size of the node, which, while small nodes may not be anecessity for a fine rod, I think we all certainly know it is desirable bymany collectors/buyers. This method, if I'm understanding it correctly,would definitely make the nodal area on a finished rod VERY small... I likethat idea.As far as not rough beveling before hand planing... well, before Ibought the Bellinger Beveller, I used my planing forms to rough bevel. Noproblem with doing that except that the tips are a bit harder to hold on agood 60 on the tip side of the form... solution: start your tip strips onthe butt section side of the form, get all six of them down close to buttstrip dimensions, then turn over the forms and finish them on the tip side.Shouldn't cause you any problems at all, and since you're heat treatingbefore you bevel, then there is really no reason for you to rough bevel.You can go straight to finished dimension from the split strip.Good luck on this and let us all know how this method works out for you. Later,Bob ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Methods Hi List, recently Ralf Ladda and I visited Walter Brunner, an internationallyknown rodmaker, in Austria. He was a very kind and informative man whowas willing to share his knowledge and expert advice on bamboorodmaking. His shop, situated in Steyr in Austria is a Bamboo rodmakersparadise. I am sure that the methods he uses are not only used by him,but they do differ from the usual rodmakers ways. Walter Brunner is 74and has been making rods since the second world war. He designed rods He has been a professional rodmaker for a very long time. Heat Treating: The culm is split by hand and then the nodal damm isremoved with a disc sander. Then all the strips are strapped to a solidmetal pipe. The metal pipe is then hung on a slow revolving hook and anelectric oven consisting of two elements about a foot in height andmounted either side of the pipe is moved up and down parallel to theculm by a motor and chain setup while the culm is rotated. The entire(split) culm is then heat treated until a certain brown tone is achieved (it is a very light colour). I suppose the process is a bit likeelectric flaming. All treated strips are kept in a warm box at 40ŸC. Straightening: The bends and curves between the nodes are straightenedand then the nodes themselves are straightened using a heat gun. At this point the enamel and the lip on the node are STILL INTACT. There hasbeen no filing done. He then pesses the node with a vertical press which has a jaw with a small recess cut into it to accomodate the nodal lip!!The strips are now flat and straight with only the lip to file offbefore bevelling. This means that his strips do not recieve a primary bevel and nodes donot pop back out during heat treating because it is done before the node is pressed. The strips are then final tapered in an amazing machine that he designed himself which lifts the strip on a pivoted bed into the cutters. He does not remove the pith before tapering, it is removed during the bevellingprocess. Then he glues .Then ferrules. Then varnishing is done by hand rubbing one coat of varnish with anylon stocking and a further two coats with a brush. The finish is perfect. He allowed Ralf and I to cast one of his rods, he makes only short dryfly rods, called Amabile.......what a rod, so much power with so littleeffort. As a stress graph it looks a little (very, very little) like BobNunleys 6' 0'' 4 Weight. Very stiff compared to a Sir D for instance,but what a fantastic feeling of line control. So the most interesting part is not putting a primary bevel into the