from horsesho@ptd.net Fri Jun 1 05:05:31 2001 f51A5UT09678 sender ) Subject: Re: Rod Identification Yes it sounds like an HI as they used mostly white ink to mark the rods. Butcould also be a Montague . Both companys made many trade rods that thehardware or sporting goods store that sold them would have them markedwhateverthey wanted. Marty Tom Bowden wrote: A friend showed me a rod that his grandfather bought for his dad back inthe 30's or 40's. They lived in New Jersey. It's an 8' 3 piece made oflightly flamed cane with a few dark spots. Node spacing is random with afew nodes on adjoining strips. No major glue lines. The reel seat is ascrew downlock with the front hood attached to the locking nut - appearstobe nickle plated brass with an aluminum spacer. There's a groove on theback of the reel seat. The ferrules are nickle plated brass with"shoulders" - look a lot like the Montague ferrules shown in Sinclair'sbook. Wraps are red with 4 narrow white signature wraps around a redband.The only marking on the rod is "Mountaineer" hand- written in white ink (nowhas a cream/gold coloration due to varnish). One of the ferrules iscracked, but I was able to assemble the rod & it appears to have a niceslow action with good tip recovery. My guess is that this is a Montague, or maybe an H-I that was madespecially for someone. There are no "Mountaineer" models listed anywhereinSinclair's book. Is anyone familiar with a rod like this? Thanks Tom from bob@downandacross.com Fri Jun 1 07:04:39 2001 f51C4cT10937 Jun 2001 08:03:34 -0400 Subject: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp --=====================_3221657==_.ALT HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of course these items are available other places, so no financial interest).1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic for removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I am being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_3221657==_.ALT HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shapeallows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always usedmy noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It isfaster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I ambeing careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_3221657==_.ALT-- from jmpio@nhbm.com Fri Jun 1 08:47:01 2001 f51Dl0T13864 Subject: RE: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. Haven't used the gun, but for this newbie node straightening is a timeconsuming process. Heat, press, sight, heat, press, sight, heat, press,sight, move to next node. As a result I like to turn on some music whiledoing it. The heat gun would make this impossible. Imagine straighteningthe strips (or maybe you have) for a 3 piece, 2 tip with a heat gun blastingthe whole time. I guess the upside is it would eventually start to warm upmy unheated shop. -----Original Message----- Subject: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of course theseitems are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, andthey seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allowspretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always used mynoisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by the lamp. Ifound it much easier to control the application of heat. It is faster andmuch quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I am being careful touse the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com , the onlinemagazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com , yoursource mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716- 836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Haven't used the gun, but for this newbie node to 3 is it would eventually start to warm up my unheatedshop. -----Original Message-----From: Bob Maulucci 6:04 Survey: Heat gun vs. LampHI all:Two things to share afterhaving received a big tool order. (Of course these items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic for removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only theglue. Their shape allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun. I have toadmit, I am thoroughly impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I am being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and vice versa)Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source forhex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from dryfly@erols.com Fri Jun 1 09:33:30 2001 f51EXUT15562 ([208.58.203.233] helo=erols.com) Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp --------------D69DD104BB9E901D3EA6E28C Bob I agree about the triangular scrapers, they work great. I've continued to use a heat gun from my straightening after I brownedup an area on a blank using a alcohol lamp. Since then the only use thelamp gets it when I singe the wraps before applying the first coat ofvarnish. Since you brought up tools, I'll give praise to Dave LeClair's ferrulestation cutters. I used them on a rod the other night and they workedgreat. It saves so much time over turning the stations the traditionalway in my metal lathe and all the fit checking that goes with it. Touse the cutters, I first scored the cane where I wanted the cut to stop,applied some masking tape as a stop and to prevent a splintering beyondthe area to be cut, I used a 13/64 cutter to knock down the edges andthen I used a 12/64 cutter, the size to match the ferrules and after alittle sandpaper, the ferrules fit fine. After using the ferrulestation cutters, I'm even considering buying the reel seat stationcutters. Great tools may this hobby much more enjoyable. I must be getting oldor I'm turning in to my dad, who would have guessed I'd ever get exitedover tools. Next thing you know, I'll be spending idle time at Lowesor Home Depot. Bob Williams Bob Maulucci wrote: HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest).1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shapeallows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having alwaysused my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed bythe lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat.It is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench,and I am being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --------------D69DD104BB9E901D3EA6E28C BobI agree about the triangular scrapers, they work great.I've continued to use a heat gun from my straightening after I browned the lamp gets it when I singe the wraps before applying the first coatof varnish.Since you brought up tools, I'll give praise to Dave LeClair's ferrule To use the cutters, I first scored the cane where I wanted the cut to stop,applied some masking tape as a stop and to prevent a splintering beyondthe area to be cut, I used a 13/64 cutter to knock down the edges and thenI used a 12/64 cutter, the size to match the ferrules and after a little cutters, I'm even considering buying the reel seat station cutters. old or I'm turning in to my dad, who would have guessed I'd ever get exited at Lowes or Home Depot.Bob WilliamsBob Maulucci wrote: Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest).1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allowspretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having alwaysused my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It isfaster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I ambeing careful to use the right fuel.Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) BobMaulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherlinelathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867- 0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --------------D69DD104BB9E901D3EA6E28C-- from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Fri Jun 1 10:22:35 2001 f51FMWT17660 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp Hi Bob,I have both. At the present time though, I am using steam for nodeflattening. I use the lamp and/or heat gun for any other chore. Who is GW? I would like to find out more about those scrapers. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com bob@downandacross.com wrote: HI all: Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shapeallows pretty nice precision. 2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always usedmy noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It isfaster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I ambeing careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci ================================================== http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmaking http://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more 218 Wallace Avenue Buffalo, NY 14216 716-836-8297 home 716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.net bob@downandacross.com from atlasc1@earthlink.net Fri Jun 1 11:26:00 2001 f51GPxT21395 JAA07391 Subject: Re: Balance This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I have always found the notion of stationary rod balance an interesting =one. Casting and playing fish are the most important actions of the rod =why do we spend so much time trying to balance rods on our index fingers =looking for a balance point. We all now that the dynamic action of a =fly rod while casting changes the point of balance instantaneously. Not =only is the balance of the rod changed constantly due to the =acceleration/deceleration of the tip and mid section it is changed by =the actively changing weight of the line as the length is increased and =decreased. What is perceived as "balanced" while resting it on an index =finger does not translate into "balanced" while it is in action. The =fact of the matter is a heavy reel or adding weight to a reel seat may =feel balanced when holding it still, it tends to rob the rod of its =potential in casting. The trend nowadays is light rods and heavy reels, =This is a mistake. Vince Marinaro spelled it out quite well in his book =In the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this very issue of balanced =rods, heavy reels and weighted reel seats. He tells of Leonard breaking =all casting records in his day by doing something different in his =tournament casting. Leonard came up onto the casting platform with rod =in hand with no reel, he put the line onto the floor and broke many =records in distance casting. What he had found out that others hadn't =was a heavy reel dampens the rods action and thus robs it of some of =its potential energy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reel and no =reel and note the distance you can cast as well as the action of the rod =and the energy required to cast. I did this twenty years ago and have =always looked for light reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend is =Hardy light weight series, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series and =Bill Ballans heirloom and classic reels (they are not the lightest but =sometime tradition prevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. I have always found the notion of = important actions of the rod why do we spend so much time trying to = instantaneously. Not only is the balance of the rod changed constantly = the acceleration/deceleration of the tip and mid section it is changed = of the matter is a heavy reel or adding weight to a reel seat may feel = mistake. Vince Marinaro spelled it out quite well in his book In the = reels and weighted reel seats. He tells of Leonard breaking all casting = came up onto the casting platform with rod in hand with no reel, he put = onto the floor and broke many records in distance casting. What he had = it of some of its potential energy. Go out and cast your rods with a = and no reel and note the distance you can cast as well as the action of = always looked for light reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend is = light weight series, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series and Bill = heirloom and classic reels (they are not the lightest but sometime = prevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino,CA. from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Fri Jun 1 12:14:18 2001 f51HEHT23758 2001 10:14:15 PDT Subject: Re: Balance This all fine and dandy. I've seen this argumentbefore and IMHO its predicated on a casting tournamentwhere distance is all important and not fishing for 8hours at a stretch. Have you ever taken a 9' cane rodand fished it with a real light reel, making ittip-heavy to begin with, and cast that for 5, 6 or 7hours? By the end of the day my arm felt like lead.Sure you're robbing the rod of some of its potential making the total load, coming from the front part ofthe rod, easier to handle. Practical experienceteaches that there is a range of weight with which arod can be most effectively used. Too little weightand your putting extra stress on your arm, too muchweight and your stressing a different set of muscles. In terms of distance, unless we are talking aboutsteelheading or saltwater fishing (maybe putting thereel in a holder or pocket would help with distance inthese cases) most of don't need to cast much beyond50' and a decent cane rod with even a heavier reel canaccomplish that without wiping out your arm. Whatwe're doing by establishing the static balance pointwith the finger under the grip, is to establish a goodstarting point for the swaying forces that take placewhile casting. I for one, am not willing to give upthe notion of balance, just to cast 80' with a #20 flythat I can't see at that distance anyway. --- Adam Vigil wrote:I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one. Casting and playingfish are the most important actions of the rod whydo we spend so much time trying to balance rods onour index fingers looking for a balance point. Weall now that the dynamic action of a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is the balance of the rodchanged constantly due to theacceleration/deceleration of the tip and mid sectionit is changed by the actively changing weight of theline as the length is increased and decreased. Whatis perceived as "balanced" while resting it on anindex finger does not translate into "balanced"while it is in action. The fact of the matter is aheavy reel or adding weight to a reel seat may feelbalanced when holding it still, it tends to rob therod of its potential in casting. The trend nowadaysis light rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled it out quite well in his bookIn the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells of Leonard breaking all castingrecords in his day by doing something different inhis tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform with rod in hand with no reel, heput the line onto the floor and broke many recordsin distance casting. What he had found out thatothers hadn't was a heavy reel dampens the rodsaction and thus robs it of some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note the distance you can cast aswell as the action of the rod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked for light reels for my rods.Light reels I recommend is Hardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloom and classic reels (they arenot the lightest but sometime tradition prevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from DNHayashida@aol.com Fri Jun 1 14:25:38 2001 f51JPbT27679 Subject: Re: Balance --part1_77.1588a974.2849461f_boundary I was composing a rebuttal to Adam's post when Bill's post came through. Couldn't have said it better myself. Big difference between casting for distance and casting for fishing. Why don't the tournament casters take the reel off of their rods for distance if it helps? They already strip all the line off the reels an lay it out on the floor.Darryl In a message dated 6/1/01 10:15:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wlwalter77us@yahoo.com writes:This all fine and dandy. I've seen this argumentbefore and IMHO its predicated on a casting tournamentwhere distance is all important and not fishing for 8hours at a stretch. Have you ever taken a 9' cane rodand fished it with a real light reel, making ittip-heavy to begin with, and cast that for 5, 6 or 7hours? By the end of the day my arm felt like lead.Sure you're robbing the rod of some of its potential making the total load, coming from the front part ofthe rod, easier to handle. Practical experienceteaches that there is a range of weight with which arod can be most effectively used. Too little weightand your putting extra stress on your arm, too muchweight and your stressing a different set of muscles. In terms of distance, unless we are talking aboutsteelheading or saltwater fishing (maybe putting thereel in a holder or pocket would help with distance inthese cases) most of don't need to cast much beyond50' and a decent cane rod with even a heavier reel canaccomplish that without wiping out your arm. Whatwe're doing by establishing the static balance pointwith the finger under the grip, is to establish a goodstarting point for the swaying forces that take placewhile casting. I for one, am not willing to give upthe notion of balance, just to cast 80' with a #20 flythat I can't see at that distance anyway. --- Adam Vigil wrote:I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one. Casting and playingfish are the most important actions of the rod whydo we spend so much time trying to balance rods onour index fingers looking for a balance point. Weall now that the dynamic action of a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is the balance of the rodchanged constantly due to theacceleration/deceleration of the tip and mid sectionit is changed by the actively changing weight of theline as the length is increased and decreased. Whatis perceived as "balanced" while resting it on anindex finger does not translate into "balanced"while it is in action. The fact of the matter is aheavy reel or adding weight to a reel seat may feelbalanced when holding it still, it tends to rob therod of its potential in casting. The trend nowadaysis light rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled it out quite well in his bookIn the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells of Leonard breaking all castingrecords in his day by doing something different inhis tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform with rod in hand with no reel, heput the line onto the floor and broke many recordsin distance casting. What he had found out thatothers hadn't was a heavy reel dampens the rodsaction and thus robs it of some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note the distance you can cast aswell as the action of the rod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked for light reels for my rods.Light reels I recommend is Hardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloom and classic reels (they arenot the lightest but sometime tradition prevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. --part1_77.1588a974.2849461f_boundary I was composing a rebuttal to Adam's post when Bill's post camethrough. Couldn't have said it better myself. Big difference between casting for distance and casting for fishing. Why don't the tournament casterstake the reel off of their rods for distance if it helps? They already strip all the line off the reels an lay it out on the floor.Darryl In a message dated 6/1/01 10:15:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, wlwalter77us@yahoo.com writes:This all fine and dandy. I've seen this argumentbefore and IMHO its predicated on a casting tournamentwhere distance is all important and not fishing for 8hours at a stretch. Have you ever taken a 9' cane rodand fished it with a real light reel, making ittip-heavy to begin with, and cast that for 5, 6 or 7hours? By the end of the day my arm felt like lead.Sure you're robbing the rod of some of its potential making the total load, coming from the front part ofthe rod, easier to handle. Practical experienceteaches that there is a range of weight with which arod can be most effectively used. Too little weightand your putting extra stress on your arm, too muchweight and your stressing a different set of muscles. In terms of distance, unless we are talking aboutsteelheading or saltwater fishing (maybe putting thereel in a holder or pocket would help with distance inthese cases) most of don't need to cast much beyond50' and a decent cane rod with even a heavier reel canaccomplish that without wiping out your arm. Whatwe're doing by establishing the static balance pointwith the finger under the grip, is to establish a goodstarting point for the swaying forces that take placewhile casting. I for one, am not willing to give upthe notion of balance, just to cast 80' with a #20 flythat I can't see at that distance anyway. --part1_77.1588a974.2849461f_boundary-- from live2huntfish@yahoo.com Fri Jun 1 14:36:50 2001 f51JanT28317 (216.241.172.138) Subject: RE: Balance This is a very unscientific guess, but is it possible that in fishing thebalance of the rod is more important than in tournament casting because ifthe fishing is done well, the majority of the time is spent holding(balancing) the rod while the fly is on the water, not continually casting.I know if I cast a lot my arm gets tired, but if I fish a long time with atip heavy rod (not balanced with enough weight behind my hand) my wristgetstired. Seems like we may be debating apples and oranges. Al Rittlive2huntfish@yahoo.com -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Balance This all fine and dandy. I've seen this argumentbefore and IMHO its predicated on a casting tournamentwhere distance is all important and not fishing for 8hours at a stretch. Have you ever taken a 9' cane rodand fished it with a real light reel, making ittip-heavy to begin with, and cast that for 5, 6 or 7hours? By the end of the day my arm felt like lead.Sure you're robbing the rod of some of its potential making the total load, coming from the front part ofthe rod, easier to handle. Practical experienceteaches that there is a range of weight with which arod can be most effectively used. Too little weightand your putting extra stress on your arm, too muchweight and your stressing a different set of muscles. In terms of distance, unless we are talking aboutsteelheading or saltwater fishing (maybe putting thereel in a holder or pocket would help with distance inthese cases) most of don't need to cast much beyond50' and a decent cane rod with even a heavier reel canaccomplish that without wiping out your arm. Whatwe're doing by establishing the static balance pointwith the finger under the grip, is to establish a goodstarting point for the swaying forces that take placewhile casting. I for one, am not willing to give upthe notion of balance, just to cast 80' with a #20 flythat I can't see at that distance anyway. --- Adam Vigil wrote:I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one. Casting and playingfish are the most important actions of the rod whydo we spend so much time trying to balance rods onour index fingers looking for a balance point. Weall now that the dynamic action of a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is the balance of the rodchanged constantly due to theacceleration/deceleration of the tip and mid sectionit is changed by the actively changing weight of theline as the length is increased and decreased. Whatis perceived as "balanced" while resting it on anindex finger does not translate into "balanced"while it is in action. The fact of the matter is aheavy reel or adding weight to a reel seat may feelbalanced when holding it still, it tends to rob therod of its potential in casting. The trend nowadaysis light rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled it out quite well in his bookIn the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells of Leonard breaking all castingrecords in his day by doing something different inhis tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform with rod in hand with no reel, heput the line onto the floor and broke many recordsin distance casting. What he had found out thatothers hadn't was a heavy reel dampens the rodsaction and thus robs it of some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note the distance you can cast aswell as the action of the rod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked for light reels for my rods.Light reels I recommend is Hardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloom and classic reels (they arenot the lightest but sometime tradition prevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:45 2001 f51LHiT02330 Subject: Canadian Canoe --part1_8.153c180d.2849606c_boundary Has anyone built this rod? If so what do you think of it. I need a second rod for Quebec for sea run Trout.Bret --part1_8.153c180d.2849606c_boundary rod for Quebec for sea run Trout.Bret --part1_8.153c180d.2849606c_boundary-- from jojo@ipa.net Fri Jun 1 17:20:25 2001 f51MKMT03944 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I already had a machinist's scraper, and you're right about the ease =factor, Bob. Mine just doesn't look as classy as the one Golden Witch =sells. I prefer my heat gun, noise and all, as it seems to be much =quicker for straightening strips. Of course, I'm soaking my strips, and =the heat gun is set at MAX heat, so this may account for my perception =of it being faster than the lamp. For straightening sections I still =prefer the heat gun, but do everything I can beforehand to not have to =straighten sections once they come out of the string. M-D HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of course = 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic for =removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, =and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape =allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always =used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by =the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It =is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I = Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and vice =versa) Bob Maulucci= http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboo=rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, =and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com I already had a = and you're right about the ease factor, Bob. Mine just doesn't look as = the one Golden Witch sells. I prefer my heat gun, noise and all, as it = be much quicker for straightening strips. Of course, I'm soaking my = the heat gun is set at MAX heat, so this may account for my perception = being faster than the lamp. For straightening sections I still prefer = gun, but do everything I can beforehand to not have to straighten = they come out of the string. M-D Maulucci HI all:Two things to share after having received a = order. (Of course these items are available other places, so no = interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are = fantastic for removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the = spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their = allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp = yesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am = thoroughly impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control = application of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an = the bench, and I am being careful to use the right fuel. = versa) = = bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for= quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, = accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com= from bob@downandacross.com Fri Jun 1 17:32:18 2001 f51MWGT04419 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp --=====================_8311370==_.ALT Better advice was never given.M-D, you say those are called machinist's scrapers?Bob At 05:19 PM 6/1/2001 -0500, Jojo DeLancier wrote: I can beforehand to not have to straighten sections once they come out of the string. M-D From: Bob Maulucci HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of course these items are available other places, so no financial interest).1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic for removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I am being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_8311370==_.ALT Better advice was never given. M-D, you say those are called machinist's scrapers?BobAt 05:19 PM 6/1/2001 -0500, Jojo DeLancier wrote: gun, but do everything I can beforehand to not have to straightensections once they come out of the string. M-D From: BobMaulucci HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, andthey seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allowspretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having alwaysused my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It is fasterand much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I am being carefulto use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine forbamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hexand quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, andaccessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine forbamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hexand quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, andaccessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_8311370==_.ALT-- from jojo@ipa.net Fri Jun 1 17:37:29 2001 f51MbTT04744 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Yeah, that is the only name I've ever known them by. I believe that Mr. =Moon has used these for rodmaking purposes for many years. Didn't you = scrapers?Bob At 05:19 PM 6/1/2001 -0500, Jojo DeLancier wrote: everything I can beforehand to not have to straighten sections once they =come out of the string. Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of =course these items are available other places, so no financial = 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic = spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their = 2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having =always used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly =impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application =of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the = Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and =vice versa) = http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo = http://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate =bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and = bob@downandacross.com Bob Maulucci= http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboo=rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, =and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Yeah, that is the = ever known them by. I believe that Mr. Moon has used these for rodmaking = Downandacross Rods Better advice was never given. M-D, you say those = called machinist's scrapers?BobAt 05:19 PM 6/1/2001 -0500, = sections = prefer the heat gun, but do everything I can beforehand to not have to = straighten sections once they come out of the string. From: Bob = Two things to share after having received a big tool order. = these items are available other places, so no financial interest). = 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are = removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I = they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape = 2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having = used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed = lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. = faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and = being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? = versa) = http://www.powerfibers.com, the online = http://www.downandacross.com, your source= quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, = 716-867-0523 cellular =bob@downandacross.com= = = bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for= quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, = accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from jojo@ipa.net Fri Jun 1 17:43:02 2001 f51Mh1T05054 Subject: Straightening Blanks Bob's post on heat gun vs. lamp for straightening sections made me think ofthe task of straightening glued blanks while still in the string, with theadhesive still wet, and what a pain it can be. Has anyone a novel way ofapproaching this, that doesn't take a half hour to accomplish? I'm stilltesting a technique, while not new or revolutionary does use differentmaterials. I tried something different today, and won't know until tomorrowhow it turned out. I'll share if you will. M-D from channer@frontier.net Fri Jun 1 18:11:22 2001 f51NBMT05753 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp Jim;If you heat your nodes more than once, you are defeating yourself. Heatwell, press with the enamel up for 5 seconds for butt strips, 3 or 4 fortips, then turn the enamel side to the jaws and press while you heat thenext node. Hollow the pith side of your nodes with a half round rasp ordrum sander. If you reheat a node, all the kinks and curves you got outthe first time will come right back.John from rmoon@ida.net Fri Jun 1 18:16:44 2001 f51NGhT06098 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp --------------590F786CF1B24899A3BE5471 Thanks for the plug. Yes I have used them for thirty years.If it is not too much, I am sending a copy of the article. Rod Rack . . .Scrapers for Cane bamboo rod. But thetask of gathering the necessary tools and materials seemedinsurmount-able and Ireluctantly let my dream die. Later, my interest wasreawakened by variousmagazine articles geared to the home rod builder. Thesearticles had fore-seenmy problems and led me to many sources of the tools andmaterial I needed. Butone problem remained. Try as I might I could not find asatisfactory scraperwith which to achieve the final and very exacting tapers forthe cane sections.None of the tools and techniques I had read about worked forme. Then, in a small Denver industrial sup-ply house, I foundthe tool that I wassure must exist. It is a three cornered, bluntly tapered,hollow ground, hardsteel ma-chinist's scraper. It has provided me with themeans to work to theextremely close tolerances required in the final tapering ofthe bamboosections. The tool should be held with the wooden handle in the palmof your handand with your index finger on top of the blade to providethe proper amount ofpressure. Place the blade at a slight angle to the rodsection and cant itslightly off vertical. I have found two basic strokes to beuseful. The first stroke is a rapid back and forth motion used toremove materialrapidly. Be very careful when using this stroke. There is atendency to cut intothe bamboo fibers on the return stroke which creates a smalldepression. Unlessextreme care is used this depression will rapidlyenlarge and become deeper, ruining the section. Should adepression appear, aquick pass or two with a sanding block loaded with 320 gritDurite No-Filsand-paper will correct the uneven spot without taking offtoo much material. The second stroke is a slow one that should be made withmoderate pressure inone direction only. It is used to remove the finalthousandth of an inch or so from the section Shavings of .001 inch or less can be madewith this scraper. Ihave found that the scraper works best when the sections arecarefully prepared.A very light sanding with No-Fil sandpaper be-fore you beginscraping will makethe job much easier. Since the blade is made of carbide steel it keeps its edge oc-casional pass with a fine file will dress the edge if itbecomes dull. The scrapers are not easy to find. Few hardware stores carrythem, althoughdealers listed under "machine tools" in the yellow pages ofyour telephonedi-rectory often do. The scrapers I have been using aremanufactured by theSimonds Company and by Nicholson Files; they are alsoavailable from othermanufacturers of machine tools. The best size and kind toget is a straight3/8 inch blade like the tool with the black handle in theillustra-tion. Theseare very hard to find and you will more commonly find 1/2inch scrapers with thecurved tip like those with the light handles. These toolsare called bydifferent names: machinist's scraper, bearing scraper ordeburring tool. Youmight have to describe it to the clerk. The cost varies fromabout $3.50 to$10.00 for a single tool, and up to about $20.00 for sets.The scrapersillustrated all cost in the $3.50 range and have been mostsatisfactory. RALPHMOON +I Jojo DeLancier wrote: Yeah, that is the only name I've ever known them by. Ibelieve that Mr. Moon has used these for rodmakingpurposes for many years. Didn't you once write an articlerelating to the use of these, Mr. Moon? --------------590F786CF1B24899A3BE5471 is not too much, I am sending a copy of the article. Rod Rack . . .Scrapers for Cane rod. But thetask of gathering the necessary tools and materials seemedinsurmount-ableand Ireluctantly let my dream die. Later, my interest was reawakened byvariousmagazine articles geared to the home rod builder. These articles hadfore-seenmy problems and led me to many sources of the tools and material Ineeded. Butone problem remained. Try as I might I could not find a satisfactoryscraperwith which to achieve the final and very exacting tapers for the canesections.None of the tools and techniques I had read about worked for me.Then, in a small Denver industrial sup-ply house, I found the tool thatI wassure must exist. It is a three cornered, bluntly tapered, hollow ground,hardsteel ma-chinist's scraper. It has provided me with the means to workto theextremely close tolerances required in the final tapering of the bamboosections.The tool should be held with the wooden handle in the palm of your handand with your index finger on top of the blade to provide the properamount ofpressure. Place the blade at a slight angle to the rod section andcant itslightly off vertical. I have found two basic strokes to be useful.The first stroke is a rapid back and forth motion used to removematerialrapidly. Be very careful when using this stroke. There is a tendencyto cut intothe bamboo fibers on the return stroke which creates a smalldepression.Unlessextreme care is used this depression will rapidlyenlarge and become deeper, ruining the section. Should a depressionappear, aquick pass or two with a sanding block loaded with 320 grit DuriteNo-Filsand-paper will correct the uneven spot without taking off too muchmaterial.The second stroke is a slow one that should be made with moderatepressureinone direction only. It is used to remove the final thousandth of aninch or so from the section Shavings of .001 inch or less can be made with thisscraper. Ihave found that the scraper works best when the sections are carefullyprepared.A very light sanding with No-Fil sandpaper be-fore you begin scrapingwill makethe job much easier.Since the blade is made of carbide steel it keeps its edge for a longtime. Anoc-casional pass with a fine file will dress the edge if it becomesdull.The scrapers are not easy to find. Few hardware stores carry them,althoughdealers listed under "machine tools" in the yellow pages of yourtelephonedi-rectory often do. The scrapers I have been using are manufactured Simonds Company and by Nicholson Files; they are also available fromothermanufacturers of machine tools. The best size and kind to get is astraight3/8 inch blade like the tool with the black handle in the illustra- tion.Theseare very hard to find and you will more commonly find 1/2 inch scraperswith thecurved tip like those with the light handles. These tools are calledbydifferent names: machinist's scraper, bearing scraper or deburringtool. Youmight have to describe it to the clerk. The cost varies from about$3.50 to$10.00 for a single tool, and up to about $20.00 for sets. The scrapersillustrated all cost in the $3.50 range and have been most satisfactory.RALPHMOON +I Jojo DeLancier wrote:-->Yeah,that is the only name I've ever known them by. I believe that Mr. Moonhas used these for rodmaking purposes for many years. Didn't you oncewritean article relating to the use of these, Mr.Moon? --------------590F786CF1B24899A3BE5471-- from channer@frontier.net Fri Jun 1 18:19:45 2001 f51NJjT06251 Subject: Re: Straightening Blanks Mark;A few things I have found that help are to first of all, tune yourbinder to have the blank come out of it as straight as possible. Hangingthe sections with as much weight as the string will stand helps a bit,as does heat setting the glue with the rod tensioned in a rack will helpsome,too, but it seems that no matter what I do, I always have a fewbends to get out of the tips, butts don't seem to be much problem.John Jojo DeLancier wrote: Bob's post on heat gun vs. lamp for straightening sections made me thinkofthe task of straightening glued blanks while still in the string, with theadhesive still wet, and what a pain it can be. Has anyone a novel way ofapproaching this, that doesn't take a half hour to accomplish? I'm stilltesting a technique, while not new or revolutionary does use differentmaterials. I tried something different today, and won't know until tomorrowhow it turned out. I'll share if you will. M-D from harms1@pa.net Fri Jun 1 18:22:45 2001 f51NMiT06517 Subject: Re: Balance Adam, You are DEAD RIGHT, my friend. It is one of the strangest things to me, whythere has been such a tremendous proliferation of fly reel manufacturers(and models) over the past 5-7 years, and yet nearly all of those reels arefar, far heavier than they should be. And now the large arbor reels(although handy, in one sense) are heavier still. I just don't understandit. How in the world did this hoax about a "balanced" outfit ever emerge? It's one thing to perpetrate a marketing ploy on the unsuspecting "newbies"and make it stick, but why have experienced fly fishermen fall for thisnonsense? Vince Marinaro was exactly correct in his analysis of thedampening effect of weight in the grip area of a rod. Vince and I spentmany years together, fishing and building rods, and we know how deadlyweight is to the action of a good rod. The lighest reel you can possiblyfind is what is wanted. I don't believe you'll ever convince the marketplace that all these fancyand expensive new reels offer no practictical improvement for ordinary troutfishing. On the contrary, most of the newer reels only hamper a rod'snatural abilities. Give me a Hardy or the old Orvis CFO--these will alwaysbe my first choice in a reel (although, size-for-size, one could also find acouple other reels that are lightweight). cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Balance I have always found the notion of stationary rod balance an interesting one.Casting and playing fish are the most important actions of the rod why do wespend so much time trying to balance rods on our index fingers looking for abalance point. We all now that the dynamic action of a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balance instantaneously. Not only is thebalance of the rod changed constantly due to the acceleration/decelerationof the tip and mid section it is changed by the actively changing weight ofthe line as the length is increased and decreased. What is perceived as"balanced" while resting it on an index finger does not translate into"balanced" while it is in action. The fact of the matter is a heavy reel oradding weight to a reel seat may feel balanced when holding it still, ittends to rob the rod of its potential in casting. The trend nowadays islight rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake. Vince Marinaro spelled itout quite well in his book In the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weighted reel seats. He tells ofLeonard breaking all casting records in his day by doing something differentin his tournament casting. Leonard came up onto the casting platform withrod in hand with no reel, he put the line onto the floor and broke manyrecords in distance casting. What he had found out that others hadn't was aheavy reel dampens the rods action and thus robs it of some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reel and no reel and note thedistance you can cast as well as the action of the rod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago and have always looked forlight reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend is Hardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series and Bill Ballans heirloomand classic reels (they are not the lightest but sometime traditionprevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Jun 1 18:26:11 2001 f51NQAT06728 hme0.telusplanet.net Fri, 1 Jun 2001 17:26:03 -0600 Subject: Re: Some bone fish rod thoughts Taylor, I've never fished salt water and likely will not but your request trippedthe memory cells and I had a look @ a book written by Joe Brooks calledthe "Complete Book of Flyfishing and published in 1948 . Mr. Brooks formany years was the fishing editor for Outdoor Life magazine and had theopportunity to fish around the world. from what I can remember, he, withothers, pioneered fishing salt with flies. His comments are particularlyimportant as he would have had access to a host of rods from allmanufacturers. Joe wrote: " The 9 and 9 1/2 footers are also commonly used in saltwaterflyfishing. When you are fishing the salt there is usually some wind andto meet this contingency alone the slow 9' or 9 1/2' rod is far ahead ofeither a shorter or faster stick, both of which would call for repeatedfalse casts to get the line out in the wind, especially with the large,wind resistant flies used in the salt. The long slow rod also allow you to make long casts and because of theheight of the rod, to drop your fly in water five inches deep and, byholding the rod high as you retrieve, to then swim that fly nicelythrough this thin water. The slow action is also of prime importancebecause saltwater fish are continually on the move, not on a feedingstation, as are trout, and the angler must flip the fly out fast to anoncomer before it sees him and flushes. In many cases saltwater flyfishing call for spilt-second action. The faster the fly is delivered,the more likely it will get a hit. A slow action rod will get the fly outwith a single false cast, while a shorter, stiffer stick would requireseveral. He goes on to say: " In my opinion, the 9 1/2 foot stick has it over the9 footer for saltwater casting because it can do everything the shorterone can, and can do a couple of them better. It enables the caster tokeep his back cast high, and lets him impart better action to the fly,which is important in the salt; and it also enables him to keep the flyhigh in the water when fishing the shallows, so that it will not sink andcatch on underwater growth. However, a 9 foot rod with a slow action willalso handle a WF8F line, which is best suited to ocean fishing." And to para-phrase a complete paragraph: " Stiff rod show their valuewhen anglers go for 100 pound tarpon .... The same applies with the flyrod technique for taking sailfish and striped marlin. The slow actionalone does the job except for the few anglers who go for extra-bigfish." And for line sizes he says: "A WF8F will being out everything that is inthe rod. You can short the head of the line and the weight up front willpull the shooting line after it. It is possible to pick up 35 feet ofline and shoot a additional 35 feet, all with only one back cast. Ittakes the work out a fishing and an angler who uses this equipment canfish all day with pleasure. Yet if he were to try to pick up, say 50 feetof line, false cast it a couple of times, and heave it out, his arm wouldfall off by the end of the day." So from a man who has nearly done it all in terms of flyfishing aroundthe world, Joe seems convinced that a 9 or 9 1/2 foot slow action in a 8wt. is the answer. Thought you might like to factor this into your decision. catch ya' Don t 08:55 PM 5/31/01 -0400, taylor hogan wrote: ArialHas anyone had anyexperience bone fishing with bamboo? Any tapers one might suggest for such an activity would be mostappreciated. ArialThanks Taylor from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Jun 1 18:35:53 2001 f51NZqT07168 hme0.telusplanet.net Fri, 1 Jun 2001 17:35:45 -0600 "and Collecting" Subject: Re:Scrapers To all, The scrapers mentioned are bearing scrapers and are available in severalconfigurations and lengths. I knew what they were and had used them fortruing the babbitt mains and cons on large bearings used in very largeslow speed engines. Queried a bunch of tool companies who were also awareto their existence where I could get a couple. The search was finallyover when I found them in the McMaster-Carr catalogue. They were only acouple of bucks 20 years ago - not sure of price now. regards, Don At 06:31 PM 6/1/01 -0400, Downandacross Rods wrote: Better advice was never given. M-D, you say those are called machinist's scrapers? Bob At 05:19 PM 6/1/2001 -0500, Jojo DeLancier wrote: but do everything I can beforehand to not have to straighten sectionsonce they come out of the string. M-D left HI all: Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shapeallows pretty nice precision. 2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always usedmy noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It isfaster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I ambeing careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and viceversa) 0000,0000,8080BobMaulucci ==================================================8080,8080,0000 http://www.powerfibers.com, the onlinemagazine for bamboo rodmaking http://www.downandacross.com, yoursource lathes, mills, and accessories, and more 218 Wallace Avenue Buffalo, NY 14216 716-836-8297 home 716-867-0523 cellular 8080,8080,0000 bmaulucci@adelphia.net bob@downandacross.com 0000,0000,8080BobMaulucci ================================================== 8080,8080,0000http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmaking http://www.downandacross.com, yoursource lathes, mills, and accessories, and more 218 Wallace Avenue Buffalo, NY 14216 716-836-8297 home 716-867-0523 cellular 8080,8080,0000bmaulucci@adelphia.net bob@downandacross.com from atlasc1@earthlink.net Fri Jun 1 18:45:48 2001 f51NjkT07569 QAA14246 Subject: Re; Balance This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Ding, Ding, Ding....back up the truck. My post was giving an example =that was stated in Marinaro's book. It was used there for the same =reason I used it. It demonstrated that a heavy reel dampened the casting =ablity of the rod. I was not talking about casting great distances or =tournament casting abilities on the water. If you add weight to your =reel seat or choose a heavy reel to "balance" the rod as you hold it on =the stream that is fine. It is for a specific reason....just not for =casting. There are 3 basic motions an object can do 1. Rotate 2. =Translate 3. Torque. Casting is the combination of rotation and =translaton. The axis of rotation changes instaneously in casting with =the tip to casting to the cork throughout different areas of the =rod.The length of cast be it long or short is still dampened with too =heavy a reel and requires more energy from upper extremity and thoracic =spine. This will take its toll on the caster even at short distances. =Less energy used in casting is less fatique to the caster. I did not =advocate using no reels only light reels and many of you probably use =the reels I mentioned. Casting 10 feet or 50 feet with a trout rod, the =rod will cast with less effort to the caster. Yes with long heavy =tipped rods a heavy reel will move the stationary fulcrum point closer =to the rear giving a mechanical advantage in "lifting" the rod and =moving it through an arc. In that case it is a compromise needed to even =use the rod. The reels such as the Colorado, CFO type, Hardy's, Tibor =and Ballans weigh from 3.5 to 5 oz. those are rather light reels =compared to some that are weighing in at 6oz or more. So if you want to =put a heavy reel on your rod...no sweat never said anything other than =it dampens the rod, the rod will still cast fine. The fact is once you =spend your time and money buying a reel that "balances" your rod on your =finger your effforts are in vain once you cast the rod and the balance =point moved and will continue to move as you cast line. Chances are =those that take issue with this subject are using the very reels or =similar ones I mentioned. I choose to "Balance" my rods by casting them =with line at various distances and determine the reel that "feels" best =suited to the rod and my casting style. Maybe I am funny that way...but =I also test drove my car instead of just kicking the tires and slamming = Adam Vigil Ding, Ding, Ding....back up the truck. = giving an example that was stated in Marinaro's book. It was used there = same reason I used it. It demonstrated that a heavy reel dampened the = seat or choose a heavy reel to "balance" the rod as you hold it on the = that is fine. It is for a specific reason....just not for casting. There = basic motions an object can do 1. Rotate 2. Translate 3. Torque. Casting = = probably use the reels I mentioned. Casting 10 feet or 50 feet with a = point closer to the rear giving a mechanical advantage in "lifting" the = heavy reel on your rod...no sweat never said anything other than it = effforts are in vain once you cast the rod and the balance point moved = continue to move as you cast line. Chances are those that take issue = subject are using the very reels or similar ones I mentioned. I choose = "Balance" my rods by casting them with line at various distances and = the reel that "feels" best suited to the rod and my casting style. Maybe = funny that way...but I also test drove my car instead of just kicking = Adam Vigil from anglport@con2.com Fri Jun 1 18:52:54 2001 f51NqrT07848 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp so this may account for my perception of it beingfaster than the lamp. M-D, Respectfully speaking....BULL!!! I used that furschlugginer alcohol lamp called nodes "God's gift to rodmakers". I couldn't believe how fast andeffective that heat gun was the first time I tried it. I'll NEVER go backto that primitive source of fire! I can do the nodes in two 6' strips infive minutes with the new technology. You can have my heat gun "when youpry it from my cold dead hands"! (Apologies to Charlton Heston)Fighting fire with heatgun....Art At 05:19 PM 06/01/2001 -0500, Jojo DeLancier wrote:I already had a machinist's scraper, and you're right about the easefactor, Bob. Mine just doesn't look as classy as the one Golden Witchsells. I prefer my heat gun, noise and all, as it seems to be much quicker gun is set at MAX heat, so this may account for my perception of it beingfaster than the lamp. For straightening sections I still prefer the heat gun, but do everything I can beforehand to not have to straighten sectionsonce they come out of the string. M-D From: Bob Maulucci HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of coursethese items are available other places, so no financial interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic forremoving glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent,and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always usedmy noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by thelamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It isfaster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I ambeing careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and vice versa)Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadratebamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories,and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Jun 1 18:55:44 2001 f51NthT08079 f51Nwn704656;Fri, 1 Jun 2001 18:58:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Straightening Blanks Jojo,I will share with you. After binding,I make a loop that centers on the heavy part of the stick. On the smallerend,I make another centered loop. The sticks are hung by the larger end. On thelower loop I hang a plumbers lead bar, In one end of the bar I screwed in alarge cup hook. That hook goes in the string loop at the bottom. I getvirtually no twist with the 4 string binder that I use for gluing. Afterhanging the stick and attaching the weight I run my fingers down each flat. Ilet them hang for 18-20 hours, unwrap, scrape, rebind and heat set. After18-20hours the glue is real easy to remove with a scraper or single edge razorblade. It is still in it's uncured state.I have found that there is no straightening I have to do when I finish thestick.Caution, the loops have to be centered on the stick. I can send you a shot ofthis.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Jojo DeLancier wrote: Bob's post on heat gun vs. lamp for straightening sections made me thinkofthe task of straightening glued blanks while still in the string, with theadhesive still wet, and what a pain it can be. Has anyone a novel way ofapproaching this, that doesn't take a half hour to accomplish? I'm stilltesting a technique, while not new or revolutionary does use differentmaterials. I tried something different today, and won't know until tomorrowhow it turned out. I'll share if you will. M-D from tausfeld@frontiernet.net Fri Jun 1 19:29:01 2001 f520SxT08886 claiming to be "oemcomputer" Subject: For snake makers.... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hello, Has anybody tried making snakes out of high carbon music wire (zinc = If I use stainless steel, how do I make it black, same question for = What about tiptops? What do I use for tubing? Any recommendations? thanksTom Ausfeld Rochester, NY Hello, Has anybody tried making snakes out of high carbon= If I use stainless steel, how do I make it black, = What other considerations/suggestions are = = recommendations? thanksTom Ausfeld Rochester, NY from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Jun 1 19:58:19 2001 f520wIT09649 Subject: Re: For snake makers.... In a message dated 06/01/2001 8:29:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tausfeld@frontiernet.net writes: Hi Tom,Most of the guys are using music wire to form they're snake guides. As far as blackening stainless wire, I'vefound that dipping them into my Oxidizer will usually turn themdark. Tip tops are made with very small diameter brass tubing.You can usually get this from Micro-Mark or Small Parts Inc. Dave http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Jun 1 20:11:44 2001 f521BhT10094 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp In a message dated 06/01/2001 7:17:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,rmoon@ida.net writes: from TSmithwick@aol.com Fri Jun 1 20:19:19 2001 f521JIT10333 Subject: Re: For snake makers.... In a message dated 6/2/1 12:29:53 AM, tausfeld@frontiernet.net writes: Tom - I suspect the reason the zinc is there is for a lubricant in forming processes, as well as a retardant to corrosion. Zinc is very soft and would wear off a guide quickly. I think you would be better off with Dave LeClair's method of case hardening bare carbon steel wire. Stainless is pretty impervious to coloring solutions, but if you heat it to 600-700* F, a dark brown oxide will form. This has to be controlled, however, because if you go much hotter, some nasty things will happen to the metal. Unless I am badly mistaken, no one ever used tungsten for guides. I think a common springsteel wire, alloyed with tungsten was used. But I have never heard the alloy named, and can't help any more than this. from vfish@vFish.net Fri Jun 1 20:32:21 2001 f521WLT10658 Subject: Bamboo Rod Maker in VA wanted... I got an odd request today... Here it is... Do you know where a person can go to apprentice with a rod maker? I wouldlove to find a rod maker that would be interested in either coming to work DavidCharlottesville, VA 22901 If anybody is interested, please email me offlist and I will give you hiscontact info. Darrell Leewww.vfish.netFine Books & Videos for bamboo rod people from thogan@rochester.rr.com Fri Jun 1 20:45:06 2001 f521j6T11023 f521hPW15304; "Don & Sandy Andersen" Subject: Re: Some bone fish rod thoughts This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Thanks for all the research on the appropriate characteristics of the =best salt water rod. I am having difficulty with the slower the better, =as far as limiting the number of false casts. All this talk about slow =versus fast rods gets me thinking again about more rigorous mathematical = ThanksTaylor Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 7:46 PMSubject: Re: Some bone fish rod thoughts Taylor, I've never fished salt water and likely will not but your request =tripped the memory cells and I had a look @ a book written by Joe Brooks =called the "Complete Book of Flyfishing and published in 1948 . Mr. =Brooks for many years was the fishing editor for Outdoor Life magazine =and had the opportunity to fish around the world. from what I can =remember, he, with others, pioneered fishing salt with flies. His =comments are particularly important as he would have had access to a =host of rods from all manufacturers.Joe wrote: " The 9 and 9 1/2 footers are also commonly used in =saltwater flyfishing. When you are fishing the salt there is usually =some wind and to meet this contingency alone the slow 9' or 9 1/2' rod =is far ahead of either a shorter or faster stick, both of which would =call for repeated false casts to get the line out in the wind, =especially with the large, wind resistant flies used in the salt.The long slow rod also allow you to make long casts and because of the =height of the rod, to drop your fly in water five inches deep and, by =holding the rod high as you retrieve, to then swim that fly nicely =through this thin water. The slow action is also of prime importance =because saltwater fish are continually on the move, not on a feeding =station, as are trout, and the angler must flip the fly out fast to an =oncomer before it sees him and flushes. In many cases saltwater fly =fishing call for spilt-second action. The faster the fly is delivered, =the more likely it will get a hit. A slow action rod will get the fly =out with a single false cast, while a shorter, stiffer stick would =require several.He goes on to say: " In my opinion, the 9 1/2 foot stick has it over =the 9 footer for saltwater casting because it can do everything the =shorter one can, and can do a couple of them better. It enables the =caster to keep his back cast high, and lets him impart better action to =the fly, which is important in the salt; and it also enables him to keep =the fly high in the water when fishing the shallows, so that it will not =sink and catch on underwater growth. However, a 9 foot rod with a slow =action will also handle a WF8F line, which is best suited to ocean =fishing."And to para-phrase a complete paragraph: " Stiff rod show their value =when anglers go for 100 pound tarpon .... The same applies with the fly =rod technique for taking sailfish and striped marlin. The slow action =alone does the job except for the few anglers who go for extra-big =fish."And for line sizes he says: "A WF8F will being out everything that is =in the rod. You can short the head of the line and the weight up front =will pull the shooting line after it. It is possible to pick up 35 feet =of line and shoot a additional 35 feet, all with only one back cast. It =takes the work out a fishing and an angler who uses this equipment can =fish all day with pleasure. Yet if he were to try to pick up, say 50 =feet of line, false cast it a couple of times, and heave it out, his arm =would fall off by the end of the day."So from a man who has nearly done it all in terms of flyfishing around =the world, Joe seems convinced that a 9 or 9 1/2 foot slow action in a 8 =wt. is the answer.Thought you might like to factor this into your decision. catch ya' Don Has anyone had any experience bone fishing with bamboo?Any tapers one might suggest for such an activity would be most =appreciated. ThanksTaylor Thanks for all the research on the = characteristics of the best salt water rod. I am having difficulty with = slower the better, as far as limiting the number of false casts. All = ThanksTaylor ----- Original Message ----- & Sandy Andersen =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 =7:46 PMSubject: Re: Some bone fish rod= thoughtsTaylor,I've = salt water and likely will not but your request tripped the memory = had a look @ a book written by Joe Brooks called the "Complete Book of = Flyfishing and published in 1948 . Mr. Brooks for many years was the = editor for Outdoor Life magazine and had the opportunity to fish = world. from what I can remember, he, with others, pioneered fishing = flies. His comments are particularly important as he would have had = a host of rods from all manufacturers.Joe wrote: " The 9 and 9 1/2 = are also commonly used in saltwater flyfishing. When you are fishing = there is usually some wind and to meet this contingency alone the slow = 1/2' rod is far ahead of either a shorter or faster stick, both of = call for repeated false casts to get the line out in the wind, = the large, wind resistant flies used in the salt.The long slow rod = allow you to make long casts and because of the height of the rod, to = your fly in water five inches deep and, by holding the rod high as you = retrieve, to then swim that fly nicely through this thin water. The = action is also of prime importance because saltwater fish are = the move, not on a feeding station, as are trout, and the angler must = fly out fast to an oncomer before it sees him and flushes. In many = saltwater fly fishing call for spilt-second action. The faster the fly = delivered, the more likely it will get a hit. A slow action rod will = fly out with a single false cast, while a shorter, stiffer stick would = several.He goes on to say: " In my opinion, the 9 1/2 foot stick = over the 9 footer for saltwater casting because it can do everything = shorter one can, and can do a couple of them better. It enables the = keep his back cast high, and lets him impart better action to the fly, = is important in the salt; and it also enables him to keep the fly high = water when fishing the shallows, so that it will not sink and catch on = underwater growth. However, a 9 foot rod with a slow action will also = WF8F line, which is best suited to ocean fishing."And to = complete paragraph: " Stiff rod show their value when anglers go for = tarpon .... The same applies with the fly rod technique for taking = and striped marlin. The slow action alone does the job except for the = anglers who go for extra-big fish."And for line sizes he says: "A = will being out everything that is in the rod. You can short the head = line and the weight up front will pull the shooting line after it. It = possible to pick up 35 feet of line and shoot a additional 35 feet, = only one back cast. It takes the work out a fishing and an angler who = this equipment can fish all day with pleasure. Yet if he were to try = up, say 50 feet of line, false cast it a couple of times, and heave it = his arm would fall off by the end of the day."So from a man who = done it all in terms of flyfishing around the world, Joe seems = a 9 or 9 1/2 foot slow action in a 8 wt. is the answer.Thought you = ya'Dont 08:55 PM 5/31/01 -0400, taylorhogan = Has anyone had experience bone fishing with bamboo?Any tapers one might suggest= such an activity would be most =appreciated.ThanksTaylor<<<< from flytyr@southshore.com Fri Jun 1 20:52:28 2001 f521qST11267 f521tZ717495;Fri, 1 Jun 2001 20:55:35 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp Heat gun any day over the lamp. I use the lamp forsinging if needed.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Bob Maulucci wrote: HI all:Two things to share after having received a bigtool order. (Of course these items are availableother places, so no financial interest).1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GWcatalog) are fantastic for removing glue fromthe blanks. It really cut down on the time Ispent, and they seem to be very gentle, removingonly the glue. Their shape allows pretty niceprecision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp beforeyesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun.I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed bythe lamp. I found it much easier to control theapplication of heat. It is faster and muchquieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench,and I am being careful to use the right fuel. Here's the question...how many prefer the gunover the lamp? (and vice versa) Bob Maulucci ================================================= http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine http://www.downandacross.com, your source forhex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines andleaders, sherline lathes, mills, andaccessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867- 0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Jun 1 22:19:38 2001 f523JbT12545 2001 20:19:36 PDT Subject: Re: Balance rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu i read an interview of walt powell where he saidesencially the same thing. timothy --- WILLIAM HARMS wrote:Adam, You are DEAD RIGHT, my friend. It is one of thestrangest things to me, whythere has been such a tremendous proliferation offly reel manufacturers(and models) over the past 5-7 years, and yet nearlyall of those reels arefar, far heavier than they should be. And now thelarge arbor reels(although handy, in one sense) are heavier still. Ijust don't understandit. How in the world did this hoax about a"balanced" outfit ever emerge? It's one thing to perpetrate a marketing ploy on theunsuspecting "newbies"and make it stick, but why have experienced flyfishermen fall for thisnonsense? Vince Marinaro was exactly correct in hisanalysis of thedampening effect of weight in the grip area of arod. Vince and I spentmany years together, fishing and building rods, andwe know how deadlyweight is to the action of a good rod. The lighestreel you can possiblyfind is what is wanted. I don't believe you'll ever convince the marketplacethat all these fancyand expensive new reels offer no practicticalimprovement for ordinary troutfishing. On the contrary, most of the newer reelsonly hamper a rod'snatural abilities. Give me a Hardy or the old OrvisCFO--these will alwaysbe my first choice in a reel (although,size-for-size, one could also find acouple other reels that are lightweight). cheers, Bill ----- Original Message -----From: "Adam Vigil" Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:37 PMSubject: Re: Balance I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one.Casting and playing fish are the most importantactions of the rod why do wespend so much time trying to balance rods on ourindex fingers looking for abalance point. We all now that the dynamic actionof a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is thebalance of the rod changed constantly due to theacceleration/decelerationof the tip and mid section it is changed by theactively changing weight ofthe line as the length is increased and decreased. What is perceived as"balanced" while resting it on an index finger doesnot translate into"balanced" while it is in action. The fact of thematter is a heavy reel oradding weight to a reel seat may feel balanced whenholding it still, ittends to rob the rod of its potential in casting. The trend nowadays islight rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled itout quite well in his book In the Ring of the Rise. He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells ofLeonard breaking all casting records in his day bydoing something differentin his tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform withrod in hand with no reel, he put the line onto thefloor and broke manyrecords in distance casting. What he had found outthat others hadn't was aheavy reel dampens the rods action and thus robs itof some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note thedistance you can cast as well as the action of therod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked forlight reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend isHardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloomand classic reels (they are not the lightest butsometime traditionprevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sat Jun 2 03:21:54 2001 f528LsT16619 Sat, 2 Jun 2001 01:21:47 -0700 Sat, 02 Jun 2001 08:21:47 GMT Subject: scrapers FILETIME=[11075700:01C0EB3D] The scrapers that Bob refers to are bearing scrapers,left over from thetime when engine bearings were supplied slightly oversize or were supplied with the bearing babbit poured into place in the engine block. The scrapers were used to fit the bearing to the main and/or rod journal of the crankshaft. also the cam bearings which were usually the poured in place type. Mine are my grandfathers, left over from when he used to take the cat apart and lay all the parts on a tarp with sack tags on the parts to identify what went where on the family filbert farm ( before they started to be called 'hazelnuts'). They used to go out to the Willamette River at the front of the property with the wagon and use dip nets and pitchforks to toss salmon into the wagon for food for the winter. Lots of floods and no dams at the time. The farm became a victim of 'eminent domain' and is now a park.A.J.Thramer_________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Jun 2 03:38:13 2001 f528cBT16939 f528c0c20555; Subject: Re: Canadian Canoe This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Bret I built a Canadian Canoe a couple of years ago and have used it a lot =since both for some saltwater stuff and in big stillwater fishing. I am =a bit of a Payne worshipper, and it's a good rod; I am not altogether =sure, though, that it mightn't be a bit heavier than it has to be to do =what it does. Nice rod, but I wouldn't build it again. eter Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:17 AMSubject: Canadian Canoe Has anyone built this rod? If so what do you think of it. I need a = Bret I built a Canadian Canoe a couple of = have used it a lot since both for some saltwater stuff and in big = fishing. I am a bit of a Payne worshipper, and it's a good rod; I am not = again. eter ----- Original Message ----- Grhghlndr@aol.com bob@downandacross.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 = AMSubject: Canadian CanoeHasanyone = Quebec for sea run Trout. Bret = from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Jun 2 03:49:49 2001 f528nlT17224 Subject: Re: scrapers Hey, Allen - that's what I do for a living! Taking the cat apart, I mean. Of course, I'm a veterinarian, so I do have a license. :-) Peter----- Original Message ----- Subject: scrapers The scrapers that Bob refers to are bearing scrapers,left over from thetimewhen engine bearings were supplied slightly oversize or were supplied withthe bearing babbit poured into place in the engine block. The scraperswereused to fit the bearing to the main and/or rod journal of the crankshaft.also the cam bearings which were usually the poured in place type. Minearemy grandfathers, left over from when he used to take the cat apart andlayall the parts on a tarp with sack tags on the parts to identify what wentwhere on the family filbert farm ( before they started to be called'hazelnuts'). They used to go out to the Willamette River at the front ofthe property with the wagon and use dip nets and pitchforks to tosssalmoninto the wagon for food for the winter. Lots of floods and no dams at thetime. The farm became a victim of 'eminent domain' and is now a park.A.J.Thramer _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com from dmanders@telusplanet.net Sat Jun 2 06:30:29 2001 f52BUST18926 hme0.telusplanet.net Subject: Heat gun vs lamp question Guys, I've used both and am using the heat gun in spite of the noise for thefollowing reason. The heat coming from the lamp is a "plume" that is small@ the source and rapidly disperses throughout the air above the lamp. The"plume" of heat is easily destroyed by waving anything above it. This makesprecise application of heat to a troublesome node tough to do. The heatgun, through the use of the fan arrangement, makes a "contained plume"thatis directed. When a piece of cane is waved through the "plume" of heat, itquickly reestablishes its form because of the fans flow.All this means is that I can hold a strip on the edge of the fan outletslot and get heat exactly where I would like it. Haven't filled thealcohol lamp for about 3 years. Now if someone would just come up with a type of funnel to place over alamp so that the heat comes out on just the right spot, I'd be back to thelamp. It certainly is quieter and costs less to operate. catch ya' Don from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Jun 2 08:42:19 2001 f52DgIT20372 Subject: Re: Canadian Canoe "Rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Peter,that wasn't the rod you took to Qld after Barramundi was it? Tony At 07:36 PM 6/2/01 +1000, Peter McKean wrote: Bret I built a Canadian Canoe a couple of years ago and have used it a lot sinceboth for some saltwater stuff and in big stillwater fishing. I am a bit of aPayne worshipper, and it's a good rod; I am not altogether sure, though,thatit mightn't be a bit heavier than it has to be to do what it does. Nice rod, but I wouldn't build it again. eter ----- Original Message ----- From: Grhghlndr@aol.com bob@downandacross.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:17 AM Subject: Canadian Canoe Has anyone built this rod? If so what do you think of it. I need asecond rod for Quebec for sea run Trout. Bret /**************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you love a thing let it go,If it returns it's yours,If it doesn't, hunt it down and kill it. /**************************************************************************/ from rsgould@cmc.net Sat Jun 2 10:49:37 2001 f52FnaT22398 Subject: Rod Maker I.D. This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi to all,Does anyone on the list know who a New Zealand rodmaker with the =initials W.B.D. might be? He has made a rod named "North Fork".RayP.S. Just returned from my third trip to British Columbia where I was =pursuing the wily kamloops trout. Spring is late, landed (and released) =trout to 19" but the water is still cold with few hatches. Left last =Wednesday in a snow storm to return home. Hi to all,Does anyone on the list know who a New= Fork".RayP.S. Just returned from my third trip = Columbia where I was pursuing the wily kamloops trout. Spring is late, = (and released) trout to 19" but the water is still cold with few = last Wednesday in a snow storm to return =home. from lblove@omniglobal.net Sat Jun 2 11:14:24 2001 f52GENT22676 Subject: RE: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hey everyone,You can get tri-corner scrapers from a few different place. MSC, Rutland,Bass, King Supplyall have a supply of them. Vargus and Voga also make tri cornered scraperblades thatfit into their universal handles. In a pinch, hallow grinding the faces ofa tri-cornered filewith a fine grit grinding wheel also works. Brad-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 6:07 PM Cc: and CollectingSubject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp Thanks for the plug. Yes I have used them for thirty years. If it is nottoo much, I am sending a copy of the article. Rod Rack . . .Scrapers for Cane But thetask of gathering the necessary tools and materials seemed insurmount-ableand Ireluctantly let my dream die. Later, my interest was reawakened by variousmagazine articles geared to the home rod builder. These articles hadfore-seenmy problems and led me to many sources of the tools and material Ineeded.Butone problem remained. Try as I might I could not find a satisfactoryscraperwith which to achieve the final and very exacting tapers for the canesections.None of the tools and techniques I had read about worked for me. Then, in a small Denver industrial sup-ply house, I found the tool that Iwassure must exist. It is a three cornered, bluntly tapered, hollow ground,hardsteel ma-chinist's scraper. It has provided me with the means to work totheextremely close tolerances required in the final tapering of the bamboosections. The tool should be held with the wooden handle in the palm of your handand with your index finger on top of the blade to provide the properamount ofpressure. Place the blade at a slight angle to the rod section and cant itslightly off vertical. I have found two basic strokes to be useful. The first stroke is a rapid back and forth motion used to remove materialrapidly. Be very careful when using this stroke. There is a tendency tocut intothe bamboo fibers on the return stroke which creates a small depression.Unlessextreme care is used this depression will rapidlyenlarge and become deeper, ruining the section. Should a depressionappear, aquick pass or two with a sanding block loaded with 320 grit Durite No-Filsand-paper will correct the uneven spot without taking off too muchmaterial. The second stroke is a slow one that should be made with moderatepressureinone direction only. It is used to remove the final thousandth of an inchor so from the section Shavings of .001 inch or less can be made with thisscraper. Ihave found that the scraper works best when the sections are carefullyprepared.A very light sanding with No-Fil sandpaper be-fore you begin scraping willmakethe job much easier. Since the blade is made of carbide steel it keeps its edge for a longtime. Anoc-casional pass with a fine file will dress the edge if it becomes dull. The scrapers are not easy to find. Few hardware stores carry them,althoughdealers listed under "machine tools" in the yellow pages of your telephonedi-rectory often do. The scrapers I have been using are manufactured bytheSimonds Company and by Nicholson Files; they are also available from othermanufacturers of machine tools. The best size and kind to get is astraight3/8 inch blade like the tool with the black handle in the illustra- tion.Theseare very hard to find and you will more commonly find 1/2 inch scraperswith thecurved tip like those with the light handles. These tools are called bydifferent names: machinist's scraper, bearing scraper or deburring tool.Youmight have to describe it to the clerk. The cost varies from about $3.50to$10.00 for a single tool, and up to about $20.00 for sets. The scrapersillustrated all cost in the $3.50 range and have been most satisfactory.RALPHMOON +I Jojo DeLancier wrote: Yeah, that is the only name I've ever known them by. I believe that Mr.Moon has used these for rodmaking purposes for many years. Didn't youoncewrite an article relating to the use of these, Mr. Moon? everyone, blades that tri-cornered file fine grit grinding wheel also works. Brad MoonSent: Friday, June 01, 2001 6:07 jojo@ipa.netCc: and CollectingSubject: Re: = gun vs. LampThanks for the plug. Yes I have used= Rod Rack . . . Scrapers for Cane For years I had been = my-self that I would build a bamboo rod. But the task of gathering = necessary tools and materials seemed insurmount-able and I = my dream die. Later, my interest was reawakened by various = articles geared to the home rod builder. These articles had fore-seen = problems and led me to many sources of the tools and material I = one problem remained. Try as I might I could not find a = scraper with which to achieve the final and very exacting tapers = cane sections. None of the tools and techniques I had read about = Then, in a small Denver industrial sup-ply house, I found the tool = was sure must exist. It is a three cornered, bluntly tapered, = ground, hard steel ma-chinist's scraper. It has provided me with = to work to the extremely close tolerances required in the final = The tool should be held with the wooden handle in the palm of your = and with your index finger on top of the blade to provide the = amount of pressure. Place the blade at a slight angle to the rod = and cant it slightly off vertical. I have found two basic strokes = The first stroke is a rapid back and forth motion used to remove = rapidly. Be very careful when using this stroke. There is a = cut into the bamboo fibers on the return stroke which creates a = depression. Unless extreme care is used this depression will = enlarge and become deeper, ruining the section. Should a = appear, a quick pass or two with a sanding block loaded with 320 = Durite No-Fil sand-paper will correct the uneven spot without = The second stroke is a slow one that should be made with moderate = in one direction only. It is used to remove the final thousandth = inch or so from the section Shavings of .001 inch or less can be = this scraper. I have found that the scraper works best when the = are carefully prepared. A very light sanding with No-Fil sandpaper = Since the blade is made of carbide steel it keeps its edge for a = An oc-casional pass with a fine file will dress the edge if it = The scrapers are not easy to find. Few hardware stores carry them, = dealers listed under "machine tools" in the yellow pages of your = di-rectory often do. The scrapers I have been using are = the Simonds Company and by Nicholson Files; they are also = other manufacturers of machine tools. The best size and kind to = straight 3/8 inch blade like the tool with the black handle in the = illustra-tion. These are very hard to find and you will more = 1/2 inch scrapers with the curved tip like those with the light = These tools are called by different names: machinist's scraper, = scraper or deburring tool. You might have to describe it to the = cost varies from about $3.50 to $10.00 for a single tool, and up = $20.00 for sets. The scrapers illustrated all cost in the $3.50 = =-->Yeah, that is the only name I've = them by. I believe that Mr. Moon has used these for rodmaking = many years. Didn't you once write an article relating to the use of = Mr.Moon? from TSmithwick@aol.com Sat Jun 2 11:32:14 2001 f52GWDT23077 Subject: taped splice A few people have recently asked about the taped splices. I posted a couple photos at http://members.aol.com/tsmithwick splicetip.jpg shows the end of the splice. If you look at the near section you can see the lighter colored reinforcing strip glued to the back of the section. whole splice.jpg shows the whole joint, and also shows the protective splints which are tied to the splices when the rod is not assembled. The reinforcement strips are cane strips of the same size as the strips in the joint.They are glued to the back of each section after the splices are cut. They are glued power fiber to power fiber, and then filed and carved to shape. If I had this splice to do over, I would carve these a bit thinner, as the joint is a bit bulky for my taste.Tony's suggestion of having a hardwood face on the joints sounds good to me also.Use a powerful glue. These joints get a lot of stress. from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Sat Jun 2 15:46:02 2001 f52Kk1T25600 NAA13681 NAA26296 0700 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: rod balance in the latest (summer 2001) issue of Northwest Fly Fishing is a article aboutPeter Schwab, one of the first people to write about the great steelheadfishing here on the west coast. The picture of him has him wearing the newlyinvented "belly winder reel" in 1945. This reel mounted on ones belt and therod was fished without a reel mounted on it. The reel was made by WordenCompany in Yakima Washington. Schwab wrote about it in a article in SportsAfield Fishing Annual in 1942, title a "better fly rod grasp". Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 from Mark_Dyba@hotmail.com Sat Jun 2 16:07:38 2001 f52L7bT25699 Sat, 2 Jun 2001 13:20:00 -0700 "Adam Vigil" , Subject: Re: Balance FILETIME=[66657100:01C0EBA1] An old friend of mine, Bill Lynch, once said that "a reek is nothing morethan a place to keep your line." After 40 years of fly fishing I must saythat I agree. How in the world are these reel companies able to fool thepeople into buying $300 dollar reels for trout fishing. There must be agillion dollar mark-up in that stuff and a million people with too much cashin hand.Mark----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Balance i read an interview of walt powell where he saidesencially the same thing. timothy --- WILLIAM HARMS wrote:Adam, You are DEAD RIGHT, my friend. It is one of thestrangest things to me, whythere has been such a tremendous proliferation offly reel manufacturers(and models) over the past 5-7 years, and yet nearlyall of those reels arefar, far heavier than they should be. And now thelarge arbor reels(although handy, in one sense) are heavier still. Ijust don't understandit. How in the world did this hoax about a"balanced" outfit ever emerge? It's one thing to perpetrate a marketing ploy on theunsuspecting "newbies"and make it stick, but why have experienced flyfishermen fall for thisnonsense? Vince Marinaro was exactly correct in hisanalysis of thedampening effect of weight in the grip area of arod. Vince and I spentmany years together, fishing and building rods, andwe know how deadlyweight is to the action of a good rod. The lighestreel you can possiblyfind is what is wanted. I don't believe you'll ever convince the marketplacethat all these fancyand expensive new reels offer no practicticalimprovement for ordinary troutfishing. On the contrary, most of the newer reelsonly hamper a rod'snatural abilities. Give me a Hardy or the old OrvisCFO--these will alwaysbe my first choice in a reel (although,size-for-size, one could also find acouple other reels that are lightweight). cheers, Bill ----- Original Message -----From: "Adam Vigil" Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:37 PMSubject: Re: Balance I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one.Casting and playing fish are the most importantactions of the rod why do wespend so much time trying to balance rods on ourindex fingers looking for abalance point. We all now that the dynamic actionof a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is thebalance of the rod changed constantly due to theacceleration/decelerationof the tip and mid section it is changed by theactively changing weight ofthe line as the length is increased and decreased.What is perceived as"balanced" while resting it on an index finger doesnot translate into"balanced" while it is in action. The fact of thematter is a heavy reel oradding weight to a reel seat may feel balanced whenholding it still, ittends to rob the rod of its potential in casting.The trend nowadays islight rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled itout quite well in his book In the Ring of the Rise.He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells ofLeonard breaking all casting records in his day bydoing something differentin his tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform withrod in hand with no reel, he put the line onto thefloor and broke manyrecords in distance casting. What he had found outthat others hadn't was aheavy reel dampens the rods action and thus robs itof some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note thedistance you can cast as well as the action of therod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked forlight reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend isHardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloomand classic reels (they are not the lightest butsometime traditionprevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from robertgkope@home.com Sat Jun 2 20:04:16 2001 f5314GT28370 femail13.sdc1.sfba.home.com ;Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:04:09 -0700 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Bob, I prefer my heat gun. I used a lamp on my first rod and had problems =avoiding charring the cane. I find the heat gun much easier to control =and easier to focus the heat for removing the kinks at nodes. You can =turn the temperature down to where there is little risk of burning the =cane, and with a fishtail attachment, you can heat up several inches of =cane or focus it on a single spot. To be fair, I just fired up the old =lamp and gave it another try. I still prefer the gun in spite of the = -- Robert Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 5:04 AMSubject: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp HI all:Two things to share after having received a big tool order. (Of course = 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are fantastic for =removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the time I spent, =and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their shape =allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp before yesterday, having always =used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am thoroughly impressed by =the lamp. I found it much easier to control the application of heat. It =is faster and much quieter. I have an extinguisher by the bench, and I = Here's the question...how many prefer the gun over the lamp? (and vice =versa) Bob Maulucci= http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboo=rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, =and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com Bob, much easier to control and easier to focus the heat for removing the = burning the cane, and with a fishtail attachment, you can heat up = --Robert ----- Original Message ----- Maulucci Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 =5:04 AMSubject: Survey: Heat gun vs. =LampHI all:Two things to share after having received a = order. (Of course these items are available other places, so no = interest). 1. The triangular scrapers (like in the GW catalog) are = fantastic for removing glue from the blanks. It really cut down on the = spent, and they seem to be very gentle, removing only the glue. Their = allows pretty nice precision.2. I had never used an alcohol lamp = yesterday, having always used my noisy heat gun. I have to admit, I am = thoroughly impressed by the lamp. I found it much easier to control = application of heat. It is faster and much quieter. I have an = the bench, and I am being careful to use the right fuel. = versa) = = bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for= quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, = accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com= from robertgkope@home.com Sat Jun 2 20:04:37 2001 f5314aT28389 femail13.sdc1.sfba.home.com ;Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:04:29 -0700 Subject: Re: Some bone fish rod thoughts This is a multi-part message in MIME format. That sounds a lot like Chris Bogart's Big Dog. Robert Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 4:46 PMSubject: Re: Some bone fish rod thoughts Taylor, I've never fished salt water and likely will not but your request =tripped the memory cells and I had a look @ a book written by Joe Brooks =called the "Complete Book of Flyfishing and published in 1948 . Mr. =Brooks for many years was the fishing editor for Outdoor Life magazine =and had the opportunity to fish around the world. from what I can =remember, he, with others, pioneered fishing salt with flies. His =comments are particularly important as he would have had access to a =host of rods from all manufacturers.Joe wrote: " The 9 and 9 1/2 footers are also commonly used in =saltwater flyfishing. When you are fishing the salt there is usually =some wind and to meet this contingency alone the slow 9' or 9 1/2' rod =is far ahead of either a shorter or faster stick, both of which would =call for repeated false casts to get the line out in the wind, =especially with the large, wind resistant flies used in the salt.The long slow rod also allow you to make long casts and because of the =height of the rod, to drop your fly in water five inches deep and, by =holding the rod high as you retrieve, to then swim that fly nicely =through this thin water. The slow action is also of prime importance =because saltwater fish are continually on the move, not on a feeding =station, as are trout, and the angler must flip the fly out fast to an =oncomer before it sees him and flushes. In many cases saltwater fly =fishing call for spilt-second action. The faster the fly is delivered, =the more likely it will get a hit. A slow action rod will get the fly =out with a single false cast, while a shorter, stiffer stick would =require several.He goes on to say: " In my opinion, the 9 1/2 foot stick has it over =the 9 footer for saltwater casting because it can do everything the =shorter one can, and can do a couple of them better. It enables the =caster to keep his back cast high, and lets him impart better action to =the fly, which is important in the salt; and it also enables him to keep =the fly high in the water when fishing the shallows, so that it will not =sink and catch on underwater growth. However, a 9 foot rod with a slow =action will also handle a WF8F line, which is best suited to ocean =fishing."And to para-phrase a complete paragraph: " Stiff rod show their value =when anglers go for 100 pound tarpon .... The same applies with the fly =rod technique for taking sailfish and striped marlin. The slow action =alone does the job except for the few anglers who go for extra-big =fish."And for line sizes he says: "A WF8F will being out everything that is =in the rod. You can short the head of the line and the weight up front =will pull the shooting line after it. It is possible to pick up 35 feet =of line and shoot a additional 35 feet, all with only one back cast. It =takes the work out a fishing and an angler who uses this equipment can =fish all day with pleasure. Yet if he were to try to pick up, say 50 =feet of line, false cast it a couple of times, and heave it out, his arm =would fall off by the end of the day."So from a man who has nearly done it all in terms of flyfishing around =the world, Joe seems convinced that a 9 or 9 1/2 foot slow action in a 8 =wt. is the answer.Thought you might like to factor this into your decision. catch ya' Don That sounds a lot like Chris Bogart's = Dog. Robert ----- Original Message ----- & Sandy Andersen ; =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 =4:46 PMSubject: Re: Some bone fish rod= thoughtsTaylor,I've never fished salt water and likely = but your request tripped the memory cells and I had a look @ a book = Joe Brooks called the "Complete Book of Flyfishing and published in = Brooks for many years was the fishing editor for Outdoor Life magazine = the opportunity to fish around the world. from what I can remember, = others, pioneered fishing salt with flies. His comments are = manufacturers.Joe wrote: " The 9 and 9 1/2 footers are also = in saltwater flyfishing. When you are fishing the salt there is = wind and to meet this contingency alone the slow 9' or 9 1/2' rod is = of either a shorter or faster stick, both of which would call for = false casts to get the line out in the wind, especially with the = resistant flies used in the salt.The long slow rod also allow you = long casts and because of the height of the rod, to drop your fly in = five inches deep and, by holding the rod high as you retrieve, to then = that fly nicely through this thin water. The slow action is also of = importance because saltwater fish are continually on the move, not on = feeding station, as are trout, and the angler must flip the fly out = oncomer before it sees him and flushes. In many cases saltwater fly = call for spilt-second action. The faster the fly is delivered, the = it will get a hit. A slow action rod will get the fly out with a = cast, while a shorter, stiffer stick would require several.He goes = say: " In my opinion, the 9 1/2 foot stick has it over the 9 footer = saltwater casting because it can do everything the shorter one can, = a couple of them better. It enables the caster to keep his back cast = lets him impart better action to the fly, which is important in the = it also enables him to keep the fly high in the water when fishing the = shallows, so that it will not sink and catch on underwater growth. = 9 foot rod with a slow action will also handle a WF8F line, which is = suited to ocean fishing."And to para-phrase a complete paragraph: = rod show their value when anglers go for 100 pound tarpon .... The = applies with the fly rod technique for taking sailfish and striped = slow action alone does the job except for the few anglers who go for = fish."And for line sizes he says: "A WF8F will being out = is in the rod. You can short the head of the line and the weight up = pull the shooting line after it. It is possible to pick up 35 feet of = shoot a additional 35 feet, all with only one back cast. It takes the = pleasure. Yet if he were to try to pick up, say 50 feet of line, false = a couple of times, and heave it out, his arm would fall off by the end = day."So from a man who has nearly done it all in terms of = around the world, Joe seems convinced that a 9 or 9 1/2 foot slow = 8 wt. is the answer.Thought you might like to factor this into = decision.catchya'Don from Dennishigham@cs.com Sun Jun 3 10:30:06 2001 f53FU5T07906 Subject: Grayrock 2001 Schedule cattanach@wmis.net, ccurrojr@voyager.net, BambooRods@aol.com,Bambull@webtv.net, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,steves@troutbums.com,MiTiernan@aol.com Gentlemen; register) here's the schedule for the rodmakers gathering @ Grayling,MI., June 21-23.We'll start with dinner at Whispering Pines Campground, Thurs. night the21st starting around 6pm and going until ???. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Grayling there will be maps available at the "Clubhouse". The "Clubhouse" is the cream cinderblock building across the street from The Fly Factory (Ray's Canoe Livery) on main street(highway 72 )& on the river in Grayling. Drive thru Grayling from the south, cross the river look right...you can't miss it.All Friday and Saturday activities will be at the Clubhouse.Friday9am Welcome & Harold Demarest speaking about his friend Luis Marden. Mr. Marden was the Chief of the Foreign Editorial Staff for National Geographic anda bamboo rodmaker. Luis' rodmaking equipment will be available for purchase on Saturday afternoon. 10am-4pm Beginners Workshop - Wayne Cattanach and a group of BambooElves10am Al Medved will demonstrate the Medved Beveler and the Medved TaperMill11am Reed Curry/Olaf Borge - Silk Lines their use,care and restoration. Olaf is a dealer in both Theibault and Phoenix lines and will have silk lines in weights 2 to 9 in both weight forward and double taper available for those who want to try a silk line. Special graphite dispensation for those who want to trya silk line on that 8 or 9wt bonefish rod.12am Lunch 1pm Morgan Hand Mill - Doug Hall & Dennis Higham2pm Nodeless Construction - Chris Bogart3pm The Grand Experiment - John Long. The Grand Experiment was aproject involving a number of rodmakers headed by John to build a series of rodsto the same taper but using different construction techniques...ie no heat treating, hollow built, etc. 4pm Casting Workshop - Tune up your cast or work on some advancedtechniques?pm Dinner & 90th Birthday Party for Harold Demarest Saturday9am Rod/Taper Design - Wayne Cattanach10am Finishing Techniques - John Zimny11am Ferrule Mounting - Jeff Wagner12pm Lunch1- 4pm Sell & Swap for those who want to sell or swap 1pm Alternate Grips of Bark & Rattan - Mike Biondo & Al Medved2pm Sharp-O-Rama - Miles Tiernan will demonstrate all the various ways to sharpen plane blades3pm Building Hexagonal Wood Rodcases - Ron Barch4pm Discussion Group w/ a number of accomplished/professionalrodmakers answering audience questions 5pm Trout Bum Bar-B-Q - This is a separate and voluntary activity requiring separate registration and a $50.00 fee. contact Steve Southard at517-348- 5844 or steves@troutbums.com or Victor Edwards at 517-348-8956 for info. gathering, registration form and pictures of past rodmakers gatherings or www.troutbums.com for TBBQ info Best, Dennis from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Jun 3 11:42:53 2001 f53GgqT08772 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu --part1_20.175ebd49.284bc2ff_boundary If you listen to Hendrix or Stevie Ray Vaughn like I do you can use the heatgun with no problem with hearing the music.LOL!Bret --part1_20.175ebd49.284bc2ff_boundary If you listen to Hendrix or Stevie Ray Vaughn like I do you can use the heatgun with no problem with hearing the music.LOL! --part1_20.175ebd49.284bc2ff_boundary-- from jojo@ipa.net Sun Jun 3 16:30:18 2001 f53LUGT11553 Subject: Re: Balance Mark, Considering that the wholesale price of the reel is 40% less than the retailoffering, that gives you a dealer cost of $ 180.00. Ever try to make a reelof that caliber? Betcha' can't for $ 300.00, much less for $ 180.00. Thesame goes for plastic rods. Everybody has to make money, and fly fishing isa niche market. Niche markets always command greater prices from thelimitedmarket. You are correct, I believe, about reels being nothing more than lineholders. It's just that some people prefer a nicer line holder than others.With the now available plastic reels it is possible to obtain a line holder plastic ones for that matter, but I don't. It takes all types, and there'salways someone ready to market to them. M-D An old friend of mine, Bill Lynch, once said that "a reek is nothing morethan a place to keep your line." After 40 years of fly fishing I must saythat I agree. How in the world are these reel companies able to fool thepeople into buying $300 dollar reels for trout fishing. There must be agillion dollar mark-up in that stuff and a million people with too muchcashin hand.Mark----- Original Message -----From: timothy troester Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 8:19 PMSubject: Re: Balance i read an interview of walt powell where he saidesencially the same thing. timothy --- WILLIAM HARMS wrote:Adam, You are DEAD RIGHT, my friend. It is one of thestrangest things to me, whythere has been such a tremendous proliferation offly reel manufacturers(and models) over the past 5-7 years, and yet nearlyall of those reels arefar, far heavier than they should be. And now thelarge arbor reels(although handy, in one sense) are heavier still. Ijust don't understandit. How in the world did this hoax about a"balanced" outfit ever emerge? It's one thing to perpetrate a marketing ploy on theunsuspecting "newbies"and make it stick, but why have experienced flyfishermen fall for thisnonsense? Vince Marinaro was exactly correct in hisanalysis of thedampening effect of weight in the grip area of arod. Vince and I spentmany years together, fishing and building rods, andwe know how deadlyweight is to the action of a good rod. The lighestreel you can possiblyfind is what is wanted. I don't believe you'll ever convince the marketplacethat all these fancyand expensive new reels offer no practicticalimprovement for ordinary troutfishing. On the contrary, most of the newer reelsonly hamper a rod'snatural abilities. Give me a Hardy or the old OrvisCFO--these will alwaysbe my first choice in a reel (although,size-for-size, one could also find acouple other reels that are lightweight). cheers, Bill ----- Original Message -----From: "Adam Vigil" Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:37 PMSubject: Re: Balance I have always found the notion of stationary rodbalance an interesting one.Casting and playing fish are the most importantactions of the rod why do wespend so much time trying to balance rods on ourindex fingers looking for abalance point. We all now that the dynamic actionof a fly rod whilecasting changes the point of balanceinstantaneously. Not only is thebalance of the rod changed constantly due to theacceleration/decelerationof the tip and mid section it is changed by theactively changing weight ofthe line as the length is increased and decreased.What is perceived as"balanced" while resting it on an index finger doesnot translate into"balanced" while it is in action. The fact of thematter is a heavy reel oradding weight to a reel seat may feel balanced whenholding it still, ittends to rob the rod of its potential in casting.The trend nowadays islight rods and heavy reels, This is a mistake.Vince Marinaro spelled itout quite well in his book In the Ring of the Rise.He speaks on this veryissue of balanced rods, heavy reels and weightedreel seats. He tells ofLeonard breaking all casting records in his day bydoing something differentin his tournament casting. Leonard came up onto thecasting platform withrod in hand with no reel, he put the line onto thefloor and broke manyrecords in distance casting. What he had found outthat others hadn't was aheavy reel dampens the rods action and thus robs itof some of its potentialenergy. Go out and cast your rods with a heavy reeland no reel and note thedistance you can cast as well as the action of therod and the energyrequired to cast. I did this twenty years ago andhave always looked forlight reels for my rods. Light reels I recommend isHardy light weightseries, Ross Colorado, Tibor light trout series andBill Ballans heirloomand classic reels (they are not the lightest butsometime traditionprevails). Sorry about the length, Adam Vigil Chino, CA. ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ from jojo@ipa.net Sun Jun 3 17:05:10 2001 f53M59T12075 Subject: Re: Straightening Blanks List: The long distance phone lines were out around here for an afternoon and anight, I was waiting for the digest yesterday to see how much had beenposted to the List. I didn't get the digest at all yesterday, so still don'tknow. As to what I have been experimenting with: I got some braided PET wire loomthat will withstand higher temperatures. This works on the Chinese handcuffprinciple. I have tried various weights hanging from the end, and keptthinking that I didn't have enough weight. Well, at 20 lbs. it doesn't makeany more difference than does 2*. If there was a bend in the section before,there'll be one after. I got to thinking that with all the friction provided from the braid itself that the section couldn't slide if it wanted to, sonow am experimenting with having only a piece at each end for 6"- 8", with10 lbs. hung from the end. Now, I had the sections straight as it were, butwe'll see if this manifests any change. They weren't perfectly straight, andmaybe they will be after all. I'll know tomorrow, and will report. M-D from Lazybee45@aol.com Sun Jun 3 19:38:40 2001 f540cdT13973 Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu In a message dated 6/3/01 11:43:29 AM Central Daylight Time, Grhghlndr@aol.com writes: Emmerson,Lake and Palmer, or maybe Jethro Tull. POSSIBLY even TabBenoit! Good screaming Blues works well too.mark visit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html from bob@downandacross.com Sun Jun 3 19:58:30 2001 f540wTT14415 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Survey: Heat gun vs. Lamp --=====================_2875703==_.ALT I prefer King Crimson or Allan Holdsworth, but those work for me too.Bob At 08:38 PM 6/3/2001 -0400, Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 6/3/01 11:43:29 AM Central Daylight Time,Grhghlndr@aol.com writes: heatgun with no problem with hearing the music.LOL! >> Emmerson,Lake and Palmer, or maybe Jethro Tull. POSSIBLY even TabBenoit!Good screaming Blues works well too.mark visit Magic Mark's home pagehttp://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_2875703==_.ALT I prefer King Crimson or Allan Holdsworth, but those work for me too. BobAt 08:38 PM 6/3/2001 -0400, Lazybee45@aol.com wrote:In a message dated 6/3/01 11:43:29AM Central Daylight Time, Grhghlndr@aol.com writes:<< If you listen to Hendrix or Stevie Ray Vaughn like I do you canuse the even Good screaming Blues works well too.markvisit Magic Mark's home page http://hometown.aol.com/lazybee45/myhomepage/business.html Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo rods, silk lines and leaders,sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716- 867-0523 cellular bmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_2875703==_.ALT-- from bob@downandacross.com Sun Jun 3 20:07:09 2001 f54178T14721 Jun 2001 21:07:05 -0400 Subject: Urac failure --=====================_3392331==_.ALT I used the Borden brand Urac today and had it fail. I thoroughly mixed 20 g of the liquid with 3 g of the powder (used the scale I bought from McMaster-Carr). Suggested ratio was 100 parts to 15 parts. I had somespare strips to try. I bound them and let sit for about 12 hours at 65- 70* or so. I took the string off and I put them in the drying cab at 80*-85*. When I checked at the 24 hour mark, they delaminated pretty badly. Any ideas? Could it be that I needed to keep them bound? Or could the strips have been too dry? Any help would be appreciated. I loved the clean up and the color, but need it to work. I am sure I did something wrong, but I don't know what. I would really like to use this glue, as it seemed great. Bottle said 75 was optimal but the basement is 10* lower, drying cabinet is 80-85* this time of year. Thanks in advance, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com, the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com, your source for hex and quadrate bamboorods, silk lines and leaders, sherline lathes, mills, and accessories, and more218 Wallace AvenueBuffalo, NY 14216716-836-8297 home716-867-0523 cellularbmaulucci@adelphia.netbob@downandacross.com --=====================_3392331==_.ALT I used the Borden brand Urac today and had it fail. I thoroughly mixed 20g of the liquid with 3 g of the powder (used the scale I bought fromMcMaster- Carr). Suggested ratio was 100 parts to 15 parts. I had somespare strips to try. I bound them and let sit for about 12 hours at65-70* or so. I took the string off and I put them in the drying cab at80*-85*. When I checked at the 24 hour mark, they delaminated prettybadly. Any ideas? Could it be that I needed to keep them bound? Or couldthe strips have been too dry? Any help would be appreciated. I loved theclean up and the color, but need it to work. I am sure I did somethingwrong, but I don't know what. I would really like to use this glue, as itseemed great. Bottle said 75 was optimal but the basement is 10* lower,drying cabinet is 80-85* this time of year. Thanks in advance, Bob Maulucci==================================================http://www.powerfibers.com,the online magazine for bamboo rodmakinghttp://www.downandacross.com,your source for hex and quadrate bamboo ro