from jfreeman@cyberport.com Wed Aug 1 06:25:22 2001 f71BPLZ18941 mail.cyberport.com Subject: Re: Wrapping question Well, I guess I'll jump in on color preservers and take a beating. This past year,I've had a lot of orders for graphite rods, which because they are friendsI've filled. I've played around with feather inlays a la Goldenwitch andhave had the opportunity to play with 3 different preservers and variouswrap finishes. I've also been able to repair some damages (man, can't peopletake care of rods anymore?) to these same rods, and I've reached someconclusions that run parallell with those offered in RodMaker Magazine, forthose that read that publication. With practice and experience (maybe Ishould say "alot of"), color preservers will perform very nicely on silk,and you can still get a wrap that's more than sufficient. I don't find anyweakness, and I won't hesitate to use it anymore. Let me stress a bit moreon experience. You've got to play around and see what works for you. Do abunch of practice wraps and use the preserver and then finish out withvarnish or polyu or whatever. Combinations of finishes work also. Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Wrapping question Friends, With all the virus scare going on right now, thought itmight be time to bring up another subject. Friday I wrappeda nice little rod in Pearsall's Gossamer Antique Gold, anddouble tipped it in deep brown. I put the first coat ofvarnish on the wraps already, no color preservers forme... and it looks, well, it looks crummy. It's not thequality of the finish or the work. I know that it willshine up nice and purty with a few more coats of varnish.It's just that I don't like the looks of the antique goldwraps on a lightly flamed blank. I dragged out another rodI had done the same way several years ago and realize nowthat it's ugly too. Here's my question: What color wraps do you reallythink looks nice on a light to medium flamed blank? I'vebeen doing lots of rods lately with clear wraps tippedburgundy. Some of them even have an inlaid turn or two ofburgundy. They look nice, but what really jumps out at youas sharp looking? Thanks in advance,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from wlwalter77us@yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 07:09:12 2001 f71C9BZ19733 2001 05:08:53 PDT Subject: Re: Wrapping question Rodmakers List-serv Jim,You don't say what CP you're using. Bill W.--- Jim & Sallyann Freeman wrote:Well, I guess I'll jump in on color preservers and take abeating. This past year,I've had a lot of orders for graphite rods, whichbecause they are friendsI've filled. I've played around with feather inlaysa la Goldenwitch andhave had the opportunity to play with 3 differentpreservers and variouswrap finishes. I've also been able to repair somedamages (man, can't peopletake care of rods anymore?) to these same rods, andI've reached someconclusions that run parallell with those offered inRodMaker Magazine, forthose that read that publication. With practice andexperience (maybe Ishould say "alot of"), color preservers will performvery nicely on silk,and you can still get a wrap that's more thansufficient. I don't find anyweakness, and I won't hesitate to use it anymore.Let me stress a bit moreon experience. You've got to play around and seewhat works for you. Do abunch of practice wraps and use the preserver andthen finish out withvarnish or polyu or whatever. Combinations offinishes work also. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:34 PMSubject: Wrapping question Friends, With all the virus scare going on right now,thought itmight be time to bring up another subject. FridayI wrappeda nice little rod in Pearsall's Gossamer AntiqueGold, anddouble tipped it in deep brown. I put the firstcoat ofvarnish on the wraps already, no color preserversforme... and it looks, well, it looks crummy. It'snot thequality of the finish or the work. I know that itwillshine up nice and purty with a few more coats ofvarnish.It's just that I don't like the looks of theantique goldwraps on a lightly flamed blank. I dragged outanother rodI had done the same way several years ago andrealize nowthat it's ugly too. Here's my question: What color wraps do youreallythink looks nice on a light to medium flamedblank? I'vebeen doing lots of rods lately with clear wrapstippedburgundy. Some of them even have an inlaid turnor two ofburgundy. They look nice, but what really jumpsout at youas sharp looking? Thanks in advance,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 07:26:28 2001 f71CQSZ20274 2001 05:26:28 PDT Subject: Re: List member isn't andy a bamboo supplier? timothy --- Tony Miller wrote:Does any one know if Andy Royer is a list member?I was sent an email with a virus infectedattachment.and it looked to be deliberate. My virus protectioncaught it.But I was compelled to open it because it soundedlike a list member.I'm not blaming any one, he may not know about it.It was titled you may want to look at this. Tony Miller ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from ttalsma@macatawa.org Wed Aug 1 07:30:16 2001 f71CUFZ20537 Subject: Re: email clients Nope, the virus file MUST be executed by opening the attachment. Ihumbly stand corrected on the Outlook Express comment aboutauto-executing. I've never seen an email client do that. Someone madea comment about not seeing a macro setting in OE 5.5, apparentlyMicrosoft has learned from its mistakes and taken care of it. That'swhat patches are for Tony, although it would be nice if Microsoft (andother software companies) would release bug-free code the first time. Oops, there I go again, living in my own little dream world. And I'm aprogrammer in real life too! Onis Cogburn wrote: Holey Moley! I just scanned my C: and D: drives and the C: drive had over25,000 files on it! A couple of notes. You guys running Eudora should check yoursettings. If you set up Eudora using the defaults, your attachmentdirectory is probably Eudora/attach/. Now pull down (if you have thelatest rev) the tools menu and select options. Now select attachments from the options menu. Check to make sure the 'delete messages whentrashis empted" is check. Otherwise the attachment remains in the Attachdirectory until some innocent user accidently executes it looking foranother file. Also a note on Outlook. We use that at work. The email, attachments andall is stored in a .pst file. I do not know if that file can spawn thevirus from inside it or not. It reminds me of the containment field inGhostbusters. I am not sure some other external file couldn't set off theviruses in the .pst file. Sleep tight and don't let the virus bite,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com -- Todd Talsma8412 North Maple CourtZeeland MI 49464------ web design business page: http://www.webbizbuilders.com/home page: http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/index.htmgenealogy pages:http://members.nbci.com/ttalsma/family/index.htm from jerryy@webtv.net Wed Aug 1 07:33:55 2001 f71CXsZ20799 (8.8.8-wtv-f/mt.gso.26Feb98) id FAA24407; Wed, 1 Aug 2001 05:33:41 - ETAuAhUAqgu5F0SYrGbRmv6zwJE0g7ydEsQCFQDK0s69l9RDIq9SC76f8LgvyFEmNQ== Subject: Quad ferrules Have just planed the 7 ft. quad that Bob Nunley so generously provided.I know that Bob is on his way up to the FFF conclave. Question on theferrules do you slit the tabs or thin them down and form them to theflats. What did Mr. Edwards do? TIA Jerry Young from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed Aug 1 08:00:31 2001 f71D0SZ21701 Subject: Re: Attachments sent to the list You may want to take 30 sec or a minute max and find out what Outlookdoesbefore publishing things like this.Thanks for the words of sanity Paul.Even freebie Outlook Express can be set up to disable scripts from running.You just have to take a minute or two and do it! If it's so great why doesn't it come with proper security as the default?Rather than becoming an expert after you've got and sent out virus maybeeverybody'd be a lot happier the other way around? I wonder if the authorsof virus are taking advantage of this little feature? The virus that's (probably) inadvertently being sent out by Mr. Pettepher isan executable file (not a script) that is just as likely to infect Eudorausers as anyone else. The simple message here is DON'T RUNATTACHMENTSWITHOUT EXTREME CARE! As for mailing itself out, the worm searches for several different types ofaddress book files including those with .wab, .mbx, and .dbx extensions. Italso can use names found in the "Sent Items" folders of several programsincluding non-Microsoft products like Netscape. That's the case for this virus but in general MS apps are the primaryvector for virus spread and that's the important point. MS have resources on a galatic scale and really should be able to preventalmost all these breaches and bugs before software is released especiallyas it has the computing world firmly by the short and curlies the but itreally does seem that a lot of the R&D of these coms packages are beingdone for free with apparent pleasure by hackers and virus authors. Aproblem is pointed out, MS get the patch done and all you've got to do iskeep getting them. Do you know anybody who was paid by MS for showing howthey made Win 95 crash in the early days?I really don't care whose prog I use. I just want to use my PC with areasonable degree of security without the need to baracde my computer tothe point the associated software is more important than what I want my PC order to do it and be just as confident every other person buying a new PCto get on the net is equally protected.Rather than praise MS and make allowances for it as you would for a smallcompany just out Bill should be whiped naked through the streets forcontinuing to fail to address these problems.Personally watching 10-15 infected messages download almost every time Ilog on and check email has stoped being as much fun as it used to be. Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Yesterday it worked.Today it is not working.Windows is like that. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed Aug 1 08:06:10 2001 f71D67Z22067 Subject: Re: email clients At 08:26 AM 8/1/01 -0400, Todd Talsma wrote:Nope, the virus file MUST be executed by opening the attachment. Ihumbly stand corrected on the Outlook Express comment aboutauto-executing. I've never seen an email client do that. Someone madea comment about not seeing a macro setting in OE 5.5, apparentlyMicrosoft has learned from its mistakes and taken care of it. That'swhat patches are for Tony, although it would be nice if Microsoft (andother software companies) would release bug-free code the first time. Oops, there I go again, living in my own little dream world. And I'm aprogrammer in real life too! I downloaded every patch MS has for OE5.5 and there is still no means ofdoing anything with a macro. And I thought that's what patches were for too.Also, this isn't the first release of anything MS has released.Tony/*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Wed Aug 1 08:16:07 2001 f71DG6Z23227 IAA06400 IAA02968 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: List member Andy is not that kind of guy! All ten of the ones I've got were from whatseemed like list members and I'm sure that none were deliberate. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:06 PM Subject: List member Does any one know if Andy Royer is a list member?I was sent an email with a virus infected attachment.and it looked to be deliberate. My virus protection caught it.But I was compelled to open it because it sounded like a list member.I'm not blaming any one, he may not know about it.It was titled you may want to look at this. Tony Miller from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed Aug 1 08:21:59 2001 f71DLuZ23738 Subject: RE: List member There's no way Andy is doing this intentionaly. At 06:15 AM 8/1/01 -0700, Coffey, Patrick W wrote:Andy is not that kind of guy! All ten of the ones I've got were from whatseemed like list members and I'm sure that none were deliberate. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:06 PM Subject: List member Does any one know if Andy Royer is a list member?I was sent an email with a virus infected attachment.and it looked to be deliberate. My virus protection caught it.But I was compelled to open it because it sounded like a list member.I'm not blaming any one, he may not know about it.It was titled you may want to look at this. Tony Miller /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from lblan@provide.net Wed Aug 1 08:34:19 2001 f71DYIZ24554 Subject: Re: email clients http://netwinsite.com/top_mail.htm Gosh Tony, you are awfully harsh on them, after all, they are still trying torelease something bug free, that works as advertised, and with no securityholes.I'm sure they will get there one of these days. Personally, I'm still waiting Also, this isn't the first release of anything MS has released.Tonyhttp://www.provide.net from avyoung@iinet.net.au Wed Aug 1 08:44:35 2001 f71DiWZ25149 Subject: Re: email clients You're right and so is Todd. I'm just venting my spleen about somethingthat doesn't belong on list.Sorry. Tony At 09:34 AM 8/1/01 +0500, lblan@provide.net wrote:Gosh Tony, you are awfully harsh on them, after all, they are still trying torelease something bug free, that works as advertised, and with no securityholes.I'm sure they will get there one of these days. Personally, I'm still waiting Also, this isn't the first release of anything MS has released.Tonyhttp://www.provide.net /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from pvansch@wethersfield.k12.ct.us Wed Aug 1 09:11:07 2001 f71EB6Z26580 Subject: Removing old varnish What is the best / easiest way to remove old varnish? Peter from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 09:12:55 2001 f71ECsZ26775 Subject: Re: email clients Hi, The more verbose instructions from what I posted last night. Paul +++++++++++++++++++++++++Outlook express actually has more controls than Outlook2000. Under the Tools Pulldown pick options then the security tab. There are two security Zones - Internet and Restricted. You can pick one of the two and these correspond to security zones ininternet explorer. If you then open IE and pick Tools, options and security you'll see fourzones. Two of these are internet and restricted. Open IE (Internet Explorer) and pick Tools, options and security you'll seefourzones. Two of these are internet and restricted that correspond to theOutlookExpress zones. There is a slider that allows you to pick what security level you want forthe Internet Zone and you can also set custom levels. I have it set ratherrestrictive thus I don't get hit by virus.------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: email clients At 08:26 AM 8/1/01 -0400, Todd Talsma wrote:Nope, the virus file MUST be executed by opening the attachment. Ihumbly stand corrected on the Outlook Express comment aboutauto-executing. I've never seen an email client do that. Someone madea comment about not seeing a macro setting in OE 5.5, apparentlyMicrosoft has learned from its mistakes and taken care of it. That'swhat patches are for Tony, although it would be nice if Microsoft (andother software companies) would release bug-free code the first time.Oops, there I go again, living in my own little dream world. And I'm aprogrammer in real life too! I downloaded every patch MS has for OE5.5 and there is still no means ofdoing anything with a macro. And I thought that's what patches were fortoo.Also, this isn't the first release of anything MS has released.Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from flyfish@defnet.com Wed Aug 1 09:35:58 2001 f71EZvZ28988 Subject: Re: List member This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Guys , I'm NOT blaming Andy.I think I said "I'm not blaming anyone" in the post.I wasn't even sure he was a list member. Now I know he is.All I was saying is that it looked intentional, not that Andy was =responsible.I'm very sorry if it sounded that way , I do apologize. Tony Miller BODY {BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} is. responsible.I'm very sorry if it sounded that way , I do apologize.Sincerely Tony Miller from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Aug 1 09:39:44 2001 f71EdhZ29381 Subject: RE: Broken Rod (again) I don't have the taper figures with me. The rod is 7', 3 pc for a 4wt.While it was still casting it was fairly slow in throwing a DT4F line andwith 30' of line out bent into the butt section, but I could hardly feel itload when I switched to a DT3F. Ferrule sizes were 10/64 and 15/64 (Ithink), and the break was just below the upper (10/64) ferrule. The breakis pretty clean, it travelled a 1/4 inch at most from one side of the rod tothe other. In applying the ferrule, if memory serves, I never reached thepoint that I had removed the entire flat, but it did take a fair bit ofwork, with cabinet scraper then file, to cut back the corners. Ferrule tabswere tapered and as far as I could tell I didn't even crack the varnish atthat ferrule during lawn-casting prior to heading to the stream. Heat treating was done in my home oven, the pieces just barely fitcatty- cornered through the oven. 350 degrees for 15 minutes, flipped thepieces at 8 minutes. Another list member has suggested that I may havehadtoo much radiant heat, making the cane brittle. I bent the sections in myhand last night, didn't break anything, but then I really didn't know howmuch to bend before expecting breakage, so I went easy. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Broken Rod (again) Hi James, Tell me a little about your heat treating procedures. Post the specs onhexrod and let us take a look at the stress graphs. Heat treat a sample ofcane left over the same way and break it. What does it look like? Lets start from there Best Regards, Adam Vigil----- Original Message ----- Subject: Broken Rod (again) Hey list, I either am the clumsiest angler ever, or I am doing something seriouslywrong. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Wed Aug 1 09:42:36 2001 f71EgZZ29836 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re:Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig OK, great choice.My question now is which lathe the Taig or Sherline would be a better choice?Which onecomes with the most accessories to accomplish what I want to do(ferrules,reelseats/inserts tube caps, and winding checks??Which lathes accessories are less expensive. Any idea on availability ofparts/accessories here in Canada?? Sorry for the bandwidth, but I am ratherinexperienced in this field and got burned with my Jet wood lathe.Is there someone who has a site of directions to build things like reelseats,ferrules and such??Shawn from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 11:05:14 2001 f71G5DZ04219 2001 09:05:13 PDT Subject: RE: List member "'flyfish@defnet.com'" i wasn't suggesting anything about andy. someone askedwho andy was and if he was part of our community. ijust responded that i believed he sold bamboo. iwasn't accusing anyone of anything. timothy --- "Coffey, Patrick W"wrote:Andy is not that kind of guy! All ten of the onesI've got were from what seemed like list members andI'm sure that none were deliberate. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:06 PM Subject: List member Does any one know if Andy Royer is a list member?I was sent an email with a virus infectedattachment.and it looked to be deliberate. My virusprotection caught it.But I was compelled to open it because it soundedlike a list member.I'm not blaming any one, he may not know about it.It was titled you may want to look at this. Tony Miller ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from tausfeld@frontiernet.net Wed Aug 1 11:30:46 2001 f71GUjZ06460 claiming to be "oemcomputer" 2001 Subject: Revised ferrule making proc. This is a multi-part message in MIME format. All; Here is my procedure that is slightly changed from the one I recently =posted and the male ferrule procedure is included. The dimensions are = The lengths kinda just worked themselves out folowing those rules. I =aimed for a 0.020" wall thickness, there are a few exceptions to allow = Tom Ausfeld Super Z ferrule # 14Female Ferrule (use 5/16" stock) a.. Put piece in chuck with 1/2" exposed.b.. Center drillc.. Drill 11/64" to a depth of .875"d.. Drill 7/32" to a depth of .875"e.. Expose piece 2" and install live center.f.. Groove a shoulder to a depth of .300", 1.69" from drilled end. i.. Taper two dimensions together over approx. 3/8" leaving a .005" =shoulder.j.. Cut off piece, and turn it around in chuck. (leave enough material = k.. Face the end of the piece leaving a .090" shoulder (3/32").l.. Center drill n.. Drill 15/64" to a depth of .875"o.. Ream with .250" reamer, put slight bevel on the inside of the =hole. q.. Put piece on mandrel, sand/file outside of sleeve until outside =dimension is .290" +/- .002".r.. Taper serration and polish.Male Ferrule (use 5/16" stock) a.. Put piece in chuck with 1/2" exposed.b.. Center drillc.. Drill 11/64" to a depth of 1 3/16"d.. Drill 7/32" to a depth of 1 3/16"e.. Expose piece 1 1/2" and install live center.f.. Make groove at 1.25" from drilled end to depth of at least .250".g.. Turn entire piece to .260"h.. Turn ferrule slide to a diameter of .254" starting .845" from =ferrule end. (not drilled end, from groove made earlier)i.. Optional: If you like to have a swell in the ferrule, turn the =first .250" of the drilled end to diameter of .252" leaving approx. =0.250" long shoulder.j.. Cut off at 1.25" from drilled side.k.. Rotate piece in jaws and face off the end.l.. Cut serations .150" deep.m.. Put on mandrel and sand/file ferrule slide to .2505" =(+.0005",-.000").n.. Taper serration and polish. All; Here is my procedure that is slightly changed from = interested I have procedures for other sizes I will send to = Tom Ausfeld Super Z ferrule # 14 Female Ferrule (use 5/16" stock) Put piece in chuck with 1/2" exposed.Center drillDrill 11/64" to a depth of .875"Drill 7/32" to a depth of .875"Expose piece 2" and install live center.Groove a shoulder to a depth of .300", 1.69" from drilled =end.Turn whole piece to a diameter of .294" Turn first .500" on drilled side to a diameter of .252" +/- .002" = shoulder.Cut off piece, and turn it around in chuck. (leave enough material = .090" welt)Face the end of the piece leaving a .090" shoulder (3/32").Center drillDrill 11/64" to a depth of .875" Drill 15/64" to a depth of .875"Ream with .250" reamer, put slight bevel on the inside of the =hole.Cut serrations .200" deep. Put piece on mandrel, sand/file outside of sleeve until outside = is .290" +/- .002".Taper serration and polish.Male Ferrule (use 5/16" stock) Put piece in chuck with 1/2" exposed.Center drillDrill 11/64" to a depth of 1 3/16"Drill 7/32" to a depth of 1 3/16"Expose piece 1 1/2" and install live center.Make groove at 1.25" from drilled end to depth of at least =.250".Turn entire piece to .260"Turn ferrule slide to a diameter of .254" starting .845" from = (not drilled end, from groove made earlier)Optional: If you like to have a swell in the ferrule, turn the = .250" of the drilled end to diameter of .252" leaving approx. 0.250" = shoulder.Cut off at 1.25" from drilled side.Rotate piece in jaws and face off the end.Cut serations .150" deep. (+.0005",-.000").Taper serration and polish. from jvswan@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 12:36:12 2001 f71HaBZ10790 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108Subject: Difference in heat treating ovens Hi all, In browsing the last couple of years worth of posts I noticed that therewere about as many people making and using ovens with heat guns as therewere making and using ovens with elements. About to make my own oven, Iamwondering why I would choose one or the other. All right, I guess myquestion is really "Why use a strip oven?" since the gun oven seems to beless expensive and provides adequate air flow and heat control (assuming agood gun is used). So, without having read what Wayne Cattanach has to say about it (I know, Iknow, but it is on my wish list!), what do you all have to say? Thanks, Jason from rjwlawed@msn.com Wed Aug 1 13:33:32 2001 f71IXVZ13537 Wed, 1 Aug 2001 11:33:26 -0700 Subject: Re: AMAYAH 3-7-01 FILETIME=[7418C6D0:01C11AB8] hi guys, i just recieved 3 mails from andy royer the last one having kbb =toyota 625 instead of amayah 3-7 -01 designation. it's still circulating. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: AMAYAH 3-7-01 It is called kbb Toyota 6-25 now................... danny Subject: Re: AMAYAH 3-7-01 Andy, your computer is infected with amayah 3-7-01 and sharing it with th=e rest of us on the rodmakers listRich Jezioro. At 04:57 PM 7/31/01, Andy Royer wrote: Hi! How are you? I send you this file in order to have your advice See you later. Thanks hi guys, ijus=t recieved 3 mails from andy royer the last one having kbb toyota 625 ins=tead of amayah 3-7 -01 designation. it's still circulating. &n=bsp; ----- Original Message ----- From:Danny =Twang Sent: Wednesday,Augus= Rodm=akers Subject: Re: AMAYAH3-= ......danny From: Rich Jezioro<ric= richjez@enteract.comDate= rodm=akers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: AMAYAH 3-7-01 Andy, your computer is infected with amayah3-7-0=1 and sharing it with the rest of us on the rodmakers listRich Jezior=o.At 04:57 PM 7/31/01, Andy Royer wrote:Content-= te=xtHi! How are you?I send you this file in order to have y=our adviceSee you later.Thanks from teekay35@interlynx.net Wed Aug 1 14:00:03 2001 f71J03Z15186 Subject: Re:Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig Shawn, I notice in Busybee Tools recent catalog a lath that looks prettydecent for $699 Cdn. (approx. $470 US) Busy bee Tools has a store inDartmouth, NS, or try their web site at www.busybeetools.com from rodwrapp@swbell.net Wed Aug 1 14:57:06 2001 f71Jv5Z17673 (Sun Internet Mail Server sims.3.5.2001.05.04.11.50.p10) Subject: Re virus I have been using ME and outlook express for my mail client.. I have notrecieved virus yet and all those emails that were giving virus to everyonedid not give it to me.. I did not open attachments, and I also have beenusing MCafee scan about twice a day a nothing showed.. I would suggestnobody send any attachments and dont open any attachments.. Thanks Dave----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Attachments sent to the list You may want to take 30 sec or a minute max and find out what Outlookdoesbefore publishing things like this.Thanks for the words of sanity Paul.Even freebie Outlook Express can be set up to disable scripts fromrunning.You just have to take a minute or two and do it! If it's so great why doesn't it come with proper security as the default?Rather than becoming an expert after you've got and sent out virus maybeeverybody'd be a lot happier the other way around? I wonder if the authorsof virus are taking advantage of this little feature? The virus that's (probably) inadvertently being sent out by Mr. Pettepherisan executable file (not a script) that is just as likely to infect Eudorausers as anyone else. The simple message here is DON'T RUNATTACHMENTSWITHOUT EXTREME CARE! As for mailing itself out, the worm searches for several different typesofaddress book files including those with .wab, .mbx, and .dbx extensions.Italso can use names found in the "Sent Items" folders of several programsincluding non-Microsoft products like Netscape. That's the case for this virus but in general MS apps are the primaryvector for virus spread and that's the important point.MS have resources on a galatic scale and really should be able to preventalmost all these breaches and bugs before software is released especiallyas it has the computing world firmly by the short and curlies the but itreally does seem that a lot of the R&D of these coms packages are beingdone for free with apparent pleasure by hackers and virus authors. Aproblem is pointed out, MS get the patch done and all you've got to do iskeep getting them. Do you know anybody who was paid by MS for showinghowthey made Win 95 crash in the early days?I really don't care whose prog I use. I just want to use my PC with areasonable degree of security without the need to baracde my computer tothe point the associated software is more important than what I want myPC order to do it and be just as confident every other person buying a new PCto get on the net is equally protected.Rather than praise MS and make allowances for it as you would for a smallcompany just out Bill should be whiped naked through the streets forcontinuing to fail to address these problems.Personally watching 10-15 infected messages download almost every timeIlog on and check email has stoped being as much fun as it used to be. Tony /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Yesterday it worked.Today it is not working.Windows is like that. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from rzimmerman@kcds.net Wed Aug 1 16:04:06 2001 f71L44Z20868 be forged)) Subject: Circulating virus I called Andy Royer and left a message on his answering machine, that he hasa virus and he is sending to us. I think he must not be home otherwise hewould have shut down by now. from jfoster@gte.net Wed Aug 1 16:10:34 2001 f71LAWZ21249 OAA21807 Subject: Re: Richard S. Pettepher Martin Whats your problem.. i don't remember a request for a opinionpoll on non rodmaking events. Jerry from rextutor@about.com Wed Aug 1 16:23:35 2001 f71LNYZ21894 (NPlex 5.5.029) Subject: Re: Difference in heat treating ovens I just finished my oven. It is an elementoven right out of Waynes easier to deal with. I use a heat gun to straighten rods. I have used my oven twice and had to repair it both times . The thermostat was could get a great heat gun for the price of the element. I think you are going to want a heat gun for nodes, if you don't go nodeless , Signup for a free About Email account at http://About.com from channer@frontier.net Wed Aug 1 17:26:28 2001 f71MQRZ24828 Subject: Re: Removing old varnish Peter;With Varnish Remover, of course! Most folks like either 3-M's SafestStripper or CtriStrip, as they are non toxic and won't run the familyout of the house from the fumes, but if your in to cheap buzz's,methylene chloride works like gangbusters.John Peter Van Schaack wrote: What is the best / easiest way to remove old varnish? Peter from thogan@rochester.rr.com Wed Aug 1 17:36:04 2001 f71Ma3Z25207 f71MXbC16320; Subject: Re: Sharpening This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I recently was exposed to the same "scary sharp" system of sharpening. I =have been using water stones prior to this for about 20 years. I am a =total convert now. I find the method of using sandpaper much much =faster, and actually for me more accurate, hence I do it more often, and =therefore my blades tend to be at their best more frequently. I have = Everybody has a system that works for them. This seems to work for me. Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 5:05 PMSubject: Sharpening A friend recently sent me an email inviting me to check out the "Scary =Sharp System" for sharpening plane blades. He stated he preferred it to =using water stones, of which he has several. Accordingly, I ran a search = http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM#condensedI'm also curious if any on the list has used this method and there =opinion of it.Wayne I recently was exposed to the same = system of sharpening. I have been using water stones prior to this for = years. I am a total convert now. I find the method of using sandpaper = faster, and actually for me more accurate, hence I do it more often, and = therefore my blades tend to be at their best more frequently. I have = Everybody has a system that works for= seems to work for me. ----- Original Message ----- oandc = Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 =5:05 PMSubject: Sharpening Gentleman, A friend recently sent me an email = check out the "Scary Sharp System" for sharpening plane blades. He = preferred it to using water stones, of which he has several. = ran a search for it and came up with the following URL. I thought I = share it.http://www.shavings.=net/SCARY.HTM#condensed this method and there opinion of it.Wayne from channer@frontier.net Wed Aug 1 17:36:16 2001 f71MaFZ25223 Subject: Re: Difference in heat treating ovens The drawbacks to the heat gun oven I made were uneven heating andburning out heat guns, usually right in the middle of heat treating somesections. I went to a straightened out hot plate coil, works muchbetter, came with controls, was 2 bucks cheaper than even a cheap heatgun, and is designed for running for long periods. after I made thisoven, I bought a good heat gun and hopefully won't have to buy another.John Jason Swan wrote: Hi all, In browsing the last couple of years worth of posts I noticed that therewere about as many people making and using ovens with heat guns as therewere making and using ovens with elements. About to make my own oven, Iamwondering why I would choose one or the other. All right, I guess myquestion is really "Why use a strip oven?" since the gun oven seems to beless expensive and provides adequate air flow and heat control (assuming agood gun is used). So, without having read what Wayne Cattanach has to say about it (I know,Iknow, but it is on my wish list!), what do you all have to say? Thanks, Jason from brianbli@yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 18:18:29 2001 f71NISZ26599 Aug 2001 16:18:28 PDT Subject: Re: Removing old varnish I've found that NAPA Brand Gasket Remover works justas well as varnish remover you can pick up from theSherwin-Williams paint store. It comes in a spray canand does a great job on the varnish. I like itbecause I don't have to use a brush to apply and it ismuch cheaper, too. If you're wondering how I foundout about it, a gun refinisher told me he used it forremoving the finish from gun stocks. Also, I've never seen any affect on the bamboo. Brian __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from oandc@email.msn.com Wed Aug 1 18:56:55 2001 f71NusZ27421 Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:56:32 -0700 Subject: Book FILETIME=[96EC0E10:01C11AE5] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hello all,I don't know if anyone received my last post as I had a problem with the =list not recognizing me due to Microsoft required changes to Outlook =Express yesterday. Now that I'm back I wanted to post a correction. I =was too hasty in stating that the response to my book query was =unanimous. After making that foolish statement I received a number of =additional responses and the overall response was indeed not unanimous. =Two of the books were about equally recommended for a beginning maker =and the other was generally considered more advanced. Open mouth, insert =foot. I apologize if my hasty declaration gave anyone bad feelings. I do =thank everyone for taking the time to respond. It is apparent that I =will need to read a three books. I'll just have to eat the elephant one =bite at a time. Thanks again.Wayne :^) Hello all,I don't know if anyone received my last= had a problem with the list not recognizing me due to Microsoft required = to Outlook Express yesterday. Now that I'm back I wanted to post a = was too hasty in stating that the response to my book query was = making that foolish statement I received a number of additional = the overall response was indeed not unanimous. Two of the books were = equally recommended for a beginning maker and the other was generally = more advanced. Open mouth, insert foot. I apologize if my hasty = anyone bad feelings. I do thank everyone for taking the time to respond. = apparent that I will need to read a three books. I'll just have to eat = elephant one bite at a time. Thanks again.Wayne:^) from johnsabina@home.com Wed Aug 1 19:12:28 2001 f720CRZ27834 0700 Subject: Lathe Help While trying to decide what kind of small lathe that I should acquire, I hada stroke of very good fortune. A friend at work gave (Price= 0) me a smallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast iron with a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears were included. It is a model number109.21270. Sears says that it was made by Emerson and parts are nolongeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12" or maybe a 6" by 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstock and 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except for three missing pieces. There is nodrive pulley for the external motor. (Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. The through-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell a version of their small 3-jaw chuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slide with a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has a transverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space. The top of this slot is only.500" below the centerline of the spindle. Looks like the missing tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. 2) what does the tool post that I am looking for look like? Any Internetlinks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Wed Aug 1 19:57:31 2001 f720vUZ28624 Wed, 1 Aug 2001 17:50:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Lathe Help --------------B37DED6022DB5FA732B06594 John,I, too, have a Craftsman lathe. Mine was made by Atlas rather thanEmerson. Sears VERY often has tooling available for these lathes, even ifthereplacement parts for the lathe itself is not available. The best source forlathe parts I know is www.clausing-industrial.com. Jolene Olds is theCustomerService Manager and can be reached at:Customer Service at 219-533-0371fax 219-533-0403Clausing Service CenterPO Box 877Goshen, IN. 46527-0877. Clausing should carry all the parts you have mentioned, plus useful thingslike owner's manuals. There is a user group for Atlas Craftsman lathes. You can reach themoderator at: atlas_craftsman Moderator There's also a guy listed in The Planing Form, JC Boegman, I think, whocarries parts for old lathes. I have no experience with his stuff, so can't saymuch more than that. Good luck,Harry Boyd John J Sabina wrote: While trying to decide what kind of small lathe that I should acquire, I hada stroke of very good fortune. A friend at work gave (Price= 0) me asmallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast iron with a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears were included. It is a model number109.21270. Sears says that it was made by Emerson and parts are nolongeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12" or maybe a 6" by 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstock and 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except for three missing pieces. There isnodrive pulley for the external motor. (Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. The through-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell a version of their small 3-jaw chuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slide with a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has a transverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space. The top of this slot is only.500" below the centerline of the spindle. Looks like the missing tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. and2) what does the tool post that I am looking for look like? Any Internetlinks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- --------------B37DED6022DB5FA732B06594 John, made Jolene Olds is the Customer Service Manager and can be reachedat:CustomerService at219-533-0371fax 219-533-0403Clausing Service CenterPO Box 877 mentioned,plus useful things like owner's manuals. You can reach the moderator at: atlas_craftsman Moderator<atlas_craftsman-owner@egroups.com> experiencewith his stuff, so can't say much more than that. John J Sabina wrote:While trying to decide what kind of small lathe thatI should acquire, I had 0) me a small spur gears is a model number areno longer 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstock and 16" from the drivespindleto the right end of the ways. There is no on the spindle is 3-jaw chuck compound slot is only tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. and Internetlinks would be appreciated.Thanks in advance,JJS --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." -- Bamboo Rods -- --------------B37DED6022DB5FA732B06594-- from jfreeman@cyberport.com Wed Aug 1 20:00:39 2001 f7210cZ28892 mail.cyberport.com "Rodmakers List-serv" Subject: Re: Wrapping question Well, I wasn't going to go that far, but since you asked .... I've used Al's ColorRite, U-40 Color Lock 2, and Gudebrod #811. The U-40 and #811 both workwell professionals seem to prefer #811, and it has received rave reviews. Al'sappears to have a solvent carrier, and I haven't had as good a result withit. I have not used Crystal Coat, but I want to soon. Again, everybody hasto experiment and find out what works for them. Some suggest diluting thefirst coat or two by 50% with distilled water. Russ Gooding of Goldenwitchis one. I've done that and had it work fine. Some say that dilutes thesolids (RodMaker MagVol. 4 Issue 2 - The Truth About Color Preserver - goodarticle), and you don't get them as deep into the wrap. There may be sometruth to that for "A" (I haven't had any problems but others I know have);I've never had any problems with 3/0 whatsoever. Again, I suggest a lot ofexperimentation. Use distilled water; don't use it. My opinion is that youhave to get a really good soak on the first application. Really put it onheavy and then come back again as it soaks in. You're trying to get all theway down to the rod, and the first coat will be the most important for that. I don't think there's any doubt that straight varnish or polyu give a bitstronger wrap, however I haven't had any treated with color preserver giveme any problems whatsoever. If you want to be so brave as to offer thepublic a choice of wrap color, you've got to use it. It's damn suprisingwhat colors they will come up with. Jim----- Original Message ----- serv Subject: Re: Wrapping question Jim,You don't say what CP you're using. Bill W.--- Jim & Sallyann Freeman wrote:Well, I guess I'll jump in on color preservers and take abeating. This past year,I've had a lot of orders for graphite rods, whichbecause they are friendsI've filled. I've played around with feather inlaysa la Goldenwitch andhave had the opportunity to play with 3 differentpreservers and variouswrap finishes. I've also been able to repair somedamages (man, can't peopletake care of rods anymore?) to these same rods, andI've reached someconclusions that run parallell with those offered inRodMaker Magazine, forthose that read that publication. With practice andexperience (maybe Ishould say "alot of"), color preservers will performvery nicely on silk,and you can still get a wrap that's more thansufficient. I don't find anyweakness, and I won't hesitate to use it anymore.Let me stress a bit moreon experience. You've got to play around and seewhat works for you. Do abunch of practice wraps and use the preserver andthen finish out withvarnish or polyu or whatever. Combinations offinishes work also. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:34 PMSubject: Wrapping question Friends, With all the virus scare going on right now,thought itmight be time to bring up another subject. FridayI wrappeda nice little rod in Pearsall's Gossamer AntiqueGold, anddouble tipped it in deep brown. I put the firstcoat ofvarnish on the wraps already, no color preserversforme... and it looks, well, it looks crummy. It'snot thequality of the finish or the work. I know that itwillshine up nice and purty with a few more coats ofvarnish.It's just that I don't like the looks of theantique goldwraps on a lightly flamed blank. I dragged outanother rodI had done the same way several years ago andrealize nowthat it's ugly too. Here's my question: What color wraps do youreallythink looks nice on a light to medium flamedblank? I'vebeen doing lots of rods lately with clear wrapstippedburgundy. Some of them even have an inlaid turnor two ofburgundy. They look nice, but what really jumpsout at youas sharp looking? Thanks in advance,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Aug 1 20:31:55 2001 f721VsZ29593 f721Vr326218 Subject: Re: Lathe Help There is a guy in Arizona that has parts for mostAtlas and Craftsman lathes. I got parts from himabout three years ago. I think it was in ApacheJunction. he is in that area.I have to look it up if you need me to. He has anad in in The Planing Form, that is how I got intouch with him.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Harry Boyd wrote: John,I, too, have a Craftsman lathe. Mine wasmade by Atlas rather than Emerson. Sears VERYoften has tooling available for these lathes,even if the replacement parts for the latheitself is not available. The best source forlathe parts I know iswww.clausing-industrial.com. Jolene Olds is theCustomer Service Manager and can be reachedat:Customer Service at 219-533-0371fax 219-533-0403Clausing Service CenterPO Box 877Goshen, IN. 46527-0877. Clausing should carry all the parts you havementioned, plus useful things like owner'smanuals. There is a user group for Atlas Craftsmanlathes. You can reach the moderator at:atlas_craftsman Moderator There's also a guy listed in The PlaningForm, JC Boegman, I think, who carries parts forold lathes. I have no experience with hisstuff, so can't say much more than that. Good luck,Harry Boyd John J Sabina wrote: While trying to decide what kind of smalllathe that I should acquire, I hada stroke of very good fortune. A friend atwork gave (Price= 0) me a smallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast ironwith a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears wereincluded. It is a model number109.21270. Sears says that it was made byEmerson and parts are no longeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12"or maybe a 6" by 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstockand 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except forthree missing pieces. There is nodrive pulley for the external motor.(Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. Thethrough-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell aversion of their small 3-jaw chuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slidewith a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has atransverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space.The top of this slot is only.500" below the centerline of the spindle.Looks like the missing tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. where I might find any parts and2) what does the tool post that I am looking links would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." -- Harry Boyd --http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods -- http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Aug 1 20:49:55 2001 f721nrZ00006 f721np328798;Wed, 1 Aug 2001 20:49:51 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Lathe Help John,I have this same lathe. The spindle is the problem. It can be bent real easy.I would be glad to take some shots of the parts you are missing so you canseewhat they look like.The drive pulley is a 4 step pulley 1/2" hole. I have the step measurements Ican send you. The tool post is a slot type that takes 1/4" tool bits, it has arocker to adjust the height ot the tool bit. The Taper in the head an tailstockis 0 MT. Hard to find. I got a 3 jaw chuck from the guy in Arizona , see myother post. I also got some other parts from him. If the spindle is not bent itwill make you a great little lathe. If it is bent than you can get one from theguy in AZ for 75.00. This lathe also has a back gear for heavier cutting andslower speeds. The allen screw in the back gear housing is loosened andshiftedin the slot. Do not loosen it too much. The dog inside will come out of thetrack. There is also a knurled head pin up front to lock the back gearhousing,The pin slides in a hole in the housing. Don't take it out os back gear andleave the pin engaged, it will shear the key on the shaft. Real pain toreplace.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com John J Sabina wrote: While trying to decide what kind of small lathe that I should acquire, I hada stroke of very good fortune. A friend at work gave (Price= 0) me asmallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast iron with a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears were included. It is a model number109.21270. Sears says that it was made by Emerson and parts are nolongeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12" or maybe a 6" by 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstock and 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except for three missing pieces. There isnodrive pulley for the external motor. (Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. The through-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell a version of their small 3-jaw chuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slide with a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has a transverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space. The top of this slot is only.500" below the centerline of the spindle. Looks like the missing tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. and2) what does the tool post that I am looking for look like? Any Internetlinks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS from rmoon@ida.net Wed Aug 1 20:53:18 2001 f721rHZ00246 Subject: Re: Lathe Help --------------348658969B2E3B62C780AB5E Try the urlhttp://search.netscape.com/search.psp?cp=nrpusfir&search=jc+boegman Asuper explanation of lathes and hasBroegman's address and phone numberLet me know about a 3" chuck and availability of change gears if youtalk to him before I do Ralph --------------348658969B2E3B62C780AB5E Broegman's address and phone numberLet me know about a 3" chuck and availability of change gears if youtalk to him before I doRalph --------------348658969B2E3B62C780AB5E-- from rmoon@ida.net Wed Aug 1 20:55:52 2001 f721tpZ00554 Subject: Re: Lathe Help Sorry the previous url was for the search engine--- disregard and tryhttp://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman/ Ralph from channer@frontier.net Wed Aug 1 21:09:13 2001 f7229CZ01082 Subject: Re: Wrapping question There is one more issue to take into account, most of us dip our rods invarnish, which is much different from applying a finsih to the surfaceof the wrap. If you are wrapping grphite rods, or wrapping after youvarnish, you don't have the problem of the finish soaking into everynook and cranny. I find that the only way I can get a color preservedwrap to turn out is to use the color preserverr, then a coat or two ofvarnish before I dip the rod. These coats are not only used to smooththe surface, but also to dam the tunnels along the guide feet and thelittle gaps where the tags tuck under, I let the varnish run out ontothe rod surface, then scrape it off when it dries as part of the pre-dipcleaning ritual.JohnJim & Sallyann Freeman wrote: Well, I wasn't going to go that far, but since you asked .... I've used Al's ColorRite, U-40 Color Lock 2, and Gudebrod #811. The U-40 and #811 both workwell professionals seem to prefer #811, and it has received rave reviews. Al'sappears to have a solvent carrier, and I haven't had as good a result withit. I have not used Crystal Coat, but I want to soon. Again, everybody hasto experiment and find out what works for them. Some suggest diluting thefirst coat or two by 50% with distilled water. Russ Gooding of Goldenwitchis one. I've done that and had it work fine. Some say that dilutes thesolids (RodMaker MagVol. 4 Issue 2 - The Truth About Color Preserver - goodarticle), and you don't get them as deep into the wrap. There may be sometruth to that for "A" (I haven't had any problems but others I know have);I've never had any problems with 3/0 whatsoever. Again, I suggest a lot ofexperimentation. Use distilled water; don't use it. My opinion is that youhave to get a really good soak on the first application. Really put it onheavy and then come back again as it soaks in. You're trying to get all theway down to the rod, and the first coat will be the most important forthat. I don't think there's any doubt that straight varnish or polyu give a bitstronger wrap, however I haven't had any treated with color preserver giveme any problems whatsoever. If you want to be so brave as to offer thepublic a choice of wrap color, you've got to use it. It's damn suprisingwhat colors they will come up with. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Bill Walters serv Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 6:08 AMSubject: Re: Wrapping question Jim,You don't say what CP you're using. Bill W.--- Jim & Sallyann Freeman wrote:Well, I guess I'll jump in on color preservers and take abeating. This past year,I've had a lot of orders for graphite rods, whichbecause they are friendsI've filled. I've played around with feather inlaysa la Goldenwitch andhave had the opportunity to play with 3 differentpreservers and variouswrap finishes. I've also been able to repair somedamages (man, can't peopletake care of rods anymore?) to these same rods, andI've reached someconclusions that run parallell with those offered inRodMaker Magazine, forthose that read that publication. With practice andexperience (maybe Ishould say "alot of"), color preservers will performvery nicely on silk,and you can still get a wrap that's more thansufficient. I don't find anyweakness, and I won't hesitate to use it anymore.Let me stress a bit moreon experience. You've got to play around and seewhat works for you. Do abunch of practice wraps and use the preserver andthen finish out withvarnish or polyu or whatever. Combinations offinishes work also. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:34 PMSubject: Wrapping question Friends, With all the virus scare going on right now,thought itmight be time to bring up another subject. FridayI wrappeda nice little rod in Pearsall's Gossamer AntiqueGold, anddouble tipped it in deep brown. I put the firstcoat ofvarnish on the wraps already, no color preserversforme... and it looks, well, it looks crummy. It'snot thequality of the finish or the work. I know that itwillshine up nice and purty with a few more coats ofvarnish.It's just that I don't like the looks of theantique goldwraps on a lightly flamed blank. I dragged outanother rodI had done the same way several years ago andrealize nowthat it's ugly too. Here's my question: What color wraps do youreallythink looks nice on a light to medium flamedblank? I'vebeen doing lots of rods lately with clear wrapstippedburgundy. Some of them even have an inlaid turnor two ofburgundy. They look nice, but what really jumpsout at youas sharp looking? Thanks in advance,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from tausfeld@frontiernet.net Wed Aug 1 21:31:04 2001 f722V2Z01597 claiming to be "oemcomputer" 2001 Subject: Re: Lathe Help All, While we are on the subject, I got an Atlas (12" swing, 24" bed) a whileback the only thing missing is the swivel for the compound feed. It cameequipped with a four position turret which is great for ferrules and reelseats, but I would like to cut threads and a compound feed is necessary.Any body know of any body who has a lathe corpse that might have this part.It is $>250 from Clausing. Clausing is great but not cheap. Tom AusfeldRochester, NY ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Lathe Help There is a guy in Arizona that has parts for mostAtlas and Craftsman lathes. I got parts from himabout three years ago. I think it was in ApacheJunction. he is in that area.I have to look it up if you need me to. He has anad in in The Planing Form, that is how I got intouch with him.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Harry Boyd wrote: John,I, too, have a Craftsman lathe. Mine wasmade by Atlas rather than Emerson. Sears VERYoften has tooling available for these lathes,even if the replacement parts for the latheitself is not available. The best source forlathe parts I know iswww.clausing-industrial.com. Jolene Olds is theCustomer Service Manager and can be reachedat:Customer Service at 219-533-0371fax 219-533-0403Clausing Service CenterPO Box 877Goshen, IN. 46527-0877. Clausing should carry all the parts you havementioned, plus useful things like owner'smanuals. There is a user group for Atlas Craftsmanlathes. You can reach the moderator at:atlas_craftsman Moderator There's also a guy listed in The PlaningForm, JC Boegman, I think, who carries parts forold lathes. I have no experience with hisstuff, so can't say much more than that. Good luck,Harry Boyd John J Sabina wrote: While trying to decide what kind of smalllathe that I should acquire, I hada stroke of very good fortune. A friend atwork gave (Price= 0) me a smallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast ironwith a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears wereincluded. It is a model number109.21270. Sears says that it was made byEmerson and parts are no longeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12"or maybe a 6" by 16" as it is12" from the drive spindle to the tailstockand 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except forthree missing pieces. There is nodrive pulley for the external motor.(Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. Thethrough-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell aversion of their small 3-jaw chuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slidewith a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has atransverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space.The top of this slot is only.500" below the centerline of the spindle.Looks like the missing tool postwas a long, low cantilevered device. where I might find any parts and2) what does the tool post that I am looking links would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." -- Harry Boyd --http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods -- http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from rsgould@cmc.net Wed Aug 1 22:41:52 2001 f723fpZ02677 Subject: Re: Get a Spine! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi Harry and All,Sorry I took so long to respond but have been gone fly fishing (again) =in British Columbia and had a fine trip with trout to 17 1/2".Now as to a summary of Lambuth's thinking: Harry Boyd is right, to be =fair much of the book should be studied. However Lambuth does indicated =that there is a difference in the cane properties depending on whether =it is from the windward or leeward side of the culm. He goes on to say =that when testing a rod section for a spine that the "soft" side of the =section is where the guides are to be mounted and that all sections of a =rod should be tested in this manner and the guides placed in this manner =to obtain what he called "Synchronization". Now in my opinion there many =reasons why a rod section has a spine and many folks on this list have =properly detailed those causes. Certainly the list should include =variations in the material properties in any one culm, juxtapositioning =of the splines in relation to their location on the culm, minute =variations in size and angles of each strip, straightness, glue =variations, etc. More important than the spine is the idea of =synchronization because that is how the issue is made to work to our =advantage. Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 8:29 AMSubject: Re: Get a Spine! Letcher Lambuth's book isn't in my library, and at it's current =price in used bookstores I doubt it will be any time soon. Would you = There's quite a thorough discussion about this in Letcher Lambuth's =book " The Angler's Workshop. There you'll find his thinking as to why =it is true and how to "synchronize" (I love that term) a rod. Hi Harry and All,Sorry I took so long to respond but = fly fishing (again) in British Columbia and had a fine trip with trout = 1/2".Now as to a summary of Lambuth's = Boyd is right, to be fair much of the book should be studied. However = does indicated that there is a difference in the cane properties = whether it is from the windward or leeward side of the culm. He goes on = that when testing a rod section for a spine that the "soft" side of the = is where the guides are to be mounted and that all sections of a rod = tested in this manner and the guides placed in this manner to obtain = section has a spine and many folks on this list have = those causes. Certainly the list should include variations in the = properties in any one culm, juxtapositioning of the splines in relation = location on the culm, minute variations in size and angles of each = advantage. Message =----- Harry= Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2001 = AMSubject: Re: Get a Spine! library, and at it's current price in used bookstores I doubt it will = There's = thorough discussion about this in Letcher Lambuth's book " The = Workshop. There you'll find his thinking as to why it is true and = "synchronize" (I love that term) a rod.--= from timklein@qwest.net Wed Aug 1 23:00:06 2001 f72405Z03261 (63.229.226.16) Subject: Time to rename the SirD? ...it's just a little to close to the recent "SirCam" we've all come to knowand hate!---Tim from timklein@qwest.net Wed Aug 1 23:00:06 2001 f72405Z03260 (63.229.226.16) Subject: Re: Attachments sent to the list You wrote: I really don't care whose prog I use. I just want to use my PC with areasonable degree of security without the need to baracde my computer tothe point the associated software is more important than what I want myPC order to do it and be just as confident every other person buying a new PCto get on the net is equally protected.Rather than praise MS and make allowances for it as you would for a smallcompany just out Bill should be whiped naked through the streets forcontinuing to fail to address these problems.Personally watching 10-15 infected messages download almost every timeIlog on and check email has stoped being as much fun as it used to be. Tony, I certainly appreciate your frustration. I've spent the last week ontemporary assignment cleaning, updating, and even rebuilding, computersystems for my company that have been affected by this latest round ofbugs.Unfortunately, you can't count on software companies, vendors or anyoneelseto protect you from the internet. It's a process you have to take an activepart in because it's only going to get worse. The people who write viruses targeted at you, me, and the rest of thegeneral public, are thrillseekers who are simply trying to wreak havoc andgenerate publicity. They go after the big targets, and Microsoft justhappens to be the biggest. If, for some reason, the big target were tochange tomorrow, your Windows system would start looking pretty darnsecure. I work with a great number of people (fortunately, honest people), who arecapable of writing code that could be far more damaging than the viruses wesee day to day. I guarantee you that there isn't a system out there that'snot vulnerable. To your problem though... In case you're still having trouble shutting down scripting on your system,I thought I'd provide a little help. If you've got the problem worked out,you can ignore the rest of this message. This has already been sent out, butI've embellished the directions a little to, hopefully, make things clearer. First - Open your control panel. You should see an icon that's labeled"Internet Options". If you don't, then I don't think you'll be able todisable scripts from running automatically. If it's there, open it. Next - click on the "Security" tab, then click on the "Restricted Sites"icon. Make sure the "Security Level for this zone" box is set to "High",then click on the "Custom Level" button. If you scroll down near the bottom of the "Settings" box, you'll see asection entitled "Scripting". Make sure that each option in this scriptingsection is set to "Disable". If you've downloaded all of the currentpatches, they're probably already checked that way (I suppose Microsoft mayhave removed that section entirely to keep people from accidentally turningthem back on, but they're still listed in my settings). Before VB scriptviruses became the rage (and prior to the patches), these setting weresetto enable and prompt. The patch changes these to disable, but doublecheckto make sure that everything is set to "DISABLE". Click OK until the "Internet Options" program is closed. You're not finishedyet! - Open Outlook Express. Click the "Tools" menu and select "Options". Click the "Security" tab. On this tab, there should be a section that's labeled "Select the InternetExplorer security zone to use". Make sure that the option selected is"Restricted sites zone". Click OK to close. You probably don't need to re-boot, but it never hurts to do that aftermaking important changes, and I'd suggest you go ahead and reboot. Voila! Outlook Express will no longer run scripts automatically. This willprotect you from the viruses that were being activated without ever openingthe message that contained it. Again though, this really won't help you withthe recent SirCam. Best of luck to you! ---Tim from jfreeman@cyberport.com Thu Aug 2 06:41:07 2001 f72Bf1Z13923 mail.cyberport.com Subject: Re: Wrapping question Good point, John. I agree completely. I do pre-dip applications also. Ihaven't done a lot with this, but I believe you can use combinations offinish - something like Gloss coat and and then dip. Or poly u then varnish. Jim----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Wrapping question There is one more issue to take into account, most of us dip our rods invarnish, which is much different from applying a finsih to the surfaceof the wrap. If you are wrapping grphite rods, or wrapping after youvarnish, you don't have the problem of the finish soaking into everynook and cranny. I find that the only way I can get a color preservedwrap to turn out is to use the color preserverr, then a coat or two ofvarnish before I dip the rod. These coats are not only used to smooththe surface, but also to dam the tunnels along the guide feet and thelittle gaps where the tags tuck under, I let the varnish run out ontothe rod surface, then scrape it off when it dries as part of the pre-dipcleaning ritual.JohnJim & Sallyann Freeman wrote: Well, I wasn't going to go that far, but since you asked .... I've used Al'sColorRite, U-40 Color Lock 2, and Gudebrod #811. The U-40 and #811 bothworkwell professionals seem to prefer #811, and it has received rave reviews.Al'sappears to have a solvent carrier, and I haven't had as good a resultwithit. I have not used Crystal Coat, but I want to soon. Again, everybodyhasto experiment and find out what works for them. Some suggest dilutingthefirst coat or two by 50% with distilled water. Russ Gooding ofGoldenwitchis one. I've done that and had it work fine. Some say that dilutes thesolids (RodMaker MagVol. 4 Issue 2 - The Truth About Color Preserver -goodarticle), and you don't get them as deep into the wrap. There may besometruth to that for "A" (I haven't had any problems but others I knowhave);I've never had any problems with 3/0 whatsoever. Again, I suggest a lotofexperimentation. Use distilled water; don't use it. My opinion is thatyouhave to get a really good soak on the first application. Really put itonheavy and then come back again as it soaks in. You're trying to get alltheway down to the rod, and the first coat will be the most important forthat. I don't think there's any doubt that straight varnish or polyu give abitstronger wrap, however I haven't had any treated with color preservergiveme any problems whatsoever. If you want to be so brave as to offer thepublic a choice of wrap color, you've got to use it. It's damn suprisingwhat colors they will come up with. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Bill Walters serv Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 6:08 AMSubject: Re: Wrapping question Jim,You don't say what CP you're using. Bill W.--- Jim & Sallyann Freeman wrote:Well, I guess I'll jump in on color preservers and take abeating. This past year,I've had a lot of orders for graphite rods, whichbecause they are friendsI've filled. I've played around with feather inlaysa la Goldenwitch andhave had the opportunity to play with 3 differentpreservers and variouswrap finishes. I've also been able to repair somedamages (man, can't peopletake care of rods anymore?) to these same rods, andI've reached someconclusions that run parallell with those offered inRodMaker Magazine, forthose that read that publication. With practice andexperience (maybe Ishould say "alot of"), color preservers will performvery nicely on silk,and you can still get a wrap that's more thansufficient. I don't find anyweakness, and I won't hesitate to use it anymore.Let me stress a bit moreon experience. You've got to play around and seewhat works for you. Do abunch of practice wraps and use the preserver andthen finish out withvarnish or polyu or whatever. Combinations offinishes work also. Jim----- Original Message -----From: Harry Boyd Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:34 PMSubject: Wrapping question Friends, With all the virus scare going on right now,thought itmight be time to bring up another subject. FridayI wrappeda nice little rod in Pearsall's Gossamer AntiqueGold, anddouble tipped it in deep brown. I put the firstcoat ofvarnish on the wraps already, no color preserversforme... and it looks, well, it looks crummy. It'snot thequality of the finish or the work. I know that itwillshine up nice and purty with a few more coats ofvarnish.It's just that I don't like the looks of theantique goldwraps on a lightly flamed blank. I dragged outanother rodI had done the same way several years ago andrealize nowthat it's ugly too. Here's my question: What color wraps do youreallythink looks nice on a light to medium flamedblank? I'vebeen doing lots of rods lately with clear wrapstippedburgundy. Some of them even have an inlaid turnor two ofburgundy. They look nice, but what really jumpsout at youas sharp looking? Thanks in advance,Harry --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo!Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from bhoy551@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 08:04:21 2001 f72D4KZ15496 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 09:04:27 -0400 "rodmakers" Subject: Re: Difference in heat treating ovens FILETIME=[A9384FC0:01C11B53] I'm not entirely satisfied with my heatgun oven. I can get up to temp with no problem, but it's still hotter at the bottom than at the top. Horizontal positioning makes it much worse. I use the professional grade craftsman gun, which is rugged and seems well made ( I think it's a Steinhell). But it doesn't seem to move a lot of air. Would getting a gun with a more powerful fan work better? Which one? One wierd thing I've noticed, is that if I plug the exhaust hole at the top of the oven, temps at the top end actually go DOWN! Any ideas? bill At 03:29 PM 8/1/2001 -0600, Rex Tutor wrote:I just finished my oven. It is an element oven right out of Waynesbook. If you aren't handy with electrical, a heat gun might beeasier to deal with. I use a heat gun to straighten rods. I have usedmy oven twice and had to repair it both times . The thermostat wasdifficult to figure out. Finding the element was not easy and Icould get a great heat gun for the price of the element. I think youare going to want a heat gun for nodes, if you don't go nodeless ,anyway . I may yet have to build another over with the heatgun. Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Aug 2 08:53:17 2001 f72DrGZ17908 f72DrF327347 Subject: Atlas and Craftsman lathe Parts To all that asked,Here is the place I got my parts.J.C. Boegman1464 S. Warner Dr.Apache Junction, Az. 85220602 982 8436His ad is in the Planing Form.No commerical conections and all that stuff.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from grnmtrods@outdrs.net Thu Aug 2 10:34:35 2001 f72FYYZ28740 Subject: 3m polishes Hello list, I've been checking all of my local spots out for the 3m polishing suppliesthat were listed the other day and I am not having any luck finding them. If someone mite know of a chain that is selling them please let me know .Also, you don't think that they mite have a different name? thanks,Jim Christman from jvswan@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 10:35:22 2001 f72FZMZ28864 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108Subject: Heat guns, part 2 Hi all, Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. I only wish theresponseswent to the whole list. from the responses I had, the only real drawback to the heat gun oven istheinconsistent temps from the proximal to the distal end of the heat chamber.While some people haven't had a problem with that, some have. This has alsobeen a problem with element ovens as well. But instead of lower temps atthe top, or end in the case of horizontal ovens, the temps are lower at theextremities of the strips (the farther out you go the cooler it gets)resulting in more cooking in the middle, and in some cases, uneven color. The key seems to be in air flow. The most successful, and consistent, ovenshave a high degree of air flow. Is that right? So, direct, or radiant heatovens need a good fan and air gun ovens need a gun with a high cfs rate. So, it looks like I will be making a heat gun oven because it will probablybe better than a cheap radiant heat oven (what I can afford at the moment,at least). What I am wondering, for you oven gurus out there, is what wouldhappen if I put a small vent at the top of the interior heating chamber,several inches below the exhaust opening at the top? My thinking is that itwould allow some of the heat that doesn't go up the heat chamber to exit themain chamber and add more heat at the top of the heat chamber. Will thiswork? Does it make sense? Would it mess up the convection action byallowing an additional place for the heat in the heating chamber to escape? Also, would the heat be more consistent in the heating chamber if a small(3") turbine was added at the bottom? This would create a sort of twistereffect in the chamber (hey, if it works in vacuum cleaners, why not ovens?).Would the movement of the air allow for a more homogenous temp.throughout? Anyway, thanks again for all the help. For those of you wishing to respondto my question, share your insight with the rest of the group. I know thatthe responses that I received from my last question were more thanappropriate for the list, and I'm sure there are several people at least,besides myself, who could benefit from this discussion. Besides, it seemslike the virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. Jason from jvswan@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 10:35:23 2001 f72FZMZ28865 "Rodmakers" User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108Subject: Re: Difference in heat treating ovens Wow, that is weird. Do you think that by plugging the exhaust hole the air,not being able to escape by that route, is drawn out of the chamber and intoanother part of the oven where a better means of escape exists? Like backout of the hole around the heat gun nozzle, or something? Jason On 8/2/01 7:04 AM, "Bill Hoy" wrote: I'm not entirely satisfied with my heatgun oven. I can get up to temp withno problem, but it's still hotter at the bottom than at the top. Horizontalpositioning makes it much worse. I use the professional grade craftsmangun, which is rugged and seems well made ( I think it's a Steinhell). Butit doesn't seem to move a lot of air. Would getting a gun with a morepowerful fan work better? Which one? One wierd thing I've noticed, is that if I plug the exhaust hole at the topof the oven, temps at the top end actually go DOWN! Any ideas? bill At 03:29 PM 8/1/2001 -0600, Rex Tutor wrote:I just finished my oven. It is an element oven right out of Waynesbook. If you aren't handy with electrical, a heat gun might beeasier to deal with. I use a heat gun to straighten rods. I have usedmy oven twice and had to repair it both times . The thermostat wasdifficult to figure out. Finding the element was not easy and Icould get a great heat gun for the price of the element. I think youare going to want a heat gun for nodes, if you don't go nodeless ,anyway . I may yet have to build another over with the heatgun. Sign up for a free About Email account at http://About.com from anglport@con2.com Thu Aug 2 10:39:33 2001 f72FdWZ29446 Subject: Tools and... All,I'm on a mailing list for Victor Machinery Exchange and they just sentme a notice that included this electronic caliper. I thought someone mightbe interested in it. I've never ordered from them, so you're on your ownthere, but "knowledge is power" http://www.victornet.com/productpages/handbook2.html We've recently added a number of items to our sale page, including: 6" Electronic Caliper for $49.90 from oandc@email.msn.com Thu Aug 2 10:40:39 2001 f72FeYZ29632 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:40:12 -0700 Subject: Planing form stations FILETIME=[6B469B70:01C11B69] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Good morning all,I have a couple of questions pertaining to forms this morning. The =first regarding the placement of the steel pins in the push pull form. =Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the set screw and pull bolt at =each station. Penrose suggests placing the set screw and pull bolt =together at each station with the pin midway between each station. With =both variations there is the option to place the set screw on the =opposite side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would be =going with Penrose and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the =form. Why would this not be the preferable method, if indeed there is =one?My second question is on swelled butt forms. My inclination is to =create one form that will do both using the standard 2 1/2" distance =between stations on the lower butt portion of the form. If I wished to =go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this with the last =three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my forms, or would I =need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and Cons? Thanks, = Good morning all, = pertaining to forms this morning. The first regarding the placement of = pins in the push pull form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between = screw and pull bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set = pull bolt together at each station with the pin midway between each = With both variations there is the option to place the set screw on the = side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would be going with = and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the form. Why would = be the preferable method, if indeed there is one? question = butt forms. My inclination is to create one form that will do both using = standard 2 1/2" distance between stations on the lower butt portion of = this with the last three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking = or would I need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and = from bob@downandacross.com Thu Aug 2 11:11:39 2001 f72GBbZ02276 Aug 2001 12:09:46 -0400 Subject: Re: 3m polishes I was able to get the Meguire's polishes at Pep boys. They carry some of the 3M, but not the Finesse IT. SO, I used Perfect and then the Meguire's #7 and #9. It polished spar and PU very nicely.Bob At 11:37 AM 8/2/2001 -0400, you wrote:Hello list, I've been checking all of my local spots out for the 3m polishing suppliesthat were listed the other day and I am not having any luck finding them. If someone mite know of a chain that is selling them please let me know .Also, you don't think that they mite have a different name? thanks,Jim Christman from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 2 11:17:40 2001 f72GHdZ03224 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 09:08:08 -0700 Subject: Re: 3m polishes James, I spent a wonderful hour the other day in an Auto Paint store. I've livedin this area for 43 years and never knew such a place existed. I suspectthatyou have a similar store locally that you do not know about. That's whereyou'll find the 3M stuff. So here's the important question -- how do you find that store? Youprobably won't find it in the local Yellow Pages, but I have a foolproofsuggestion. Trust me, this will work. But you gotta believe!!! Stop in atyour local auto body shop. Don't call on the phone, but stop by, in person.Be really nice, and go in with a smile on your face. Act like they aregenius's, though they probably are not! Be flattering about their work. Tellthem what you're looking for, and chances are they will have some, but won'tcall it the same thing. What you want to ask for is first, "Polish" andsecond, "Swirl Remover". Study the bottles it comes in and you will find thecorrect names and numbers you are looking for. Tell them you need abouthalfa cup of each of the products described. Offer them $5 or $10 for just a*skosh* of each one. They probably buy them in quart bottles. If I was you,I would just "happen" to have a coupla empty 35mm film canisters in each ofmypants pockets. Two film canisters of each will be a lifetime supply for thehobbyist. Now here's the tricky part... If your local body shop does NOT havethe polishes, then very simply and humbly ask them where they purchasetheirpaints? They'll name a local auto parts store. Keep gently pushing. Askthem where they buy stuff that the local auto parts guy doesn't carry. Theywill name a source in the next city of 50K+ population. THAT is your place.I promise you they will have the 3M stuff. I did this exact same thing, lastFriday. It was a joyous journey of adventure and discovery. The place I find is called "Louisiana Auto Paints". It's in Monroe,Louisiana -- in the old, run-down part of the downtown area. They are not inthe phone book. But it's a neat place. Every kind of Meguiar's product.Every kind of sandpaper imaginable. Neat little sanding blocks, and runnippers. And 3M stuff galore. The very, very best find was the simple,overweight, ugly gal that worked behind the counter. She knew more aboutfinishing paints and clear coats than John Zimny!! **That's sayingsomething**. She answered my questions clearly and concisely. She couldfindstuff that I wanted, but didn't know exactly what to call it. All I had to dowas be nice, and humble, and act appreciative. All in all, I had a great afternoon. I hope you have a similar adventure. Remember, you gotta believe!! And keep those cards and letters comin',y'all!! Sign me, HarryAuto Paint Store Evangelist JAMES Christman wrote: Hello list, I've been checking all of my local spots out for the 3m polishing suppliesthat were listed the other day and I am not having any luck finding them. If someone mite know of a chain that is selling them please let me know .Also, you don't think that they mite have a different name? thanks,Jim Christman --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from douglosey@spectrumenergy.com Thu Aug 2 11:31:28 2001 f72GVRZ04610 Subject: spinning rod stress curves This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi all,I have sort of a goofy question....I have planed down and am getting =ready to glue up a pair of spinning rods...the tapers are from the =archives...my question is:...now that I have ventured this far into the =building process I've decided I ought to see what the stress curve looks =like...only problem is..I don't know how to calculate stresses on a =spinning rod....and being a electrical type guy...don't have a clue =about them anyway....any help would be greatly appreciated... thanks,losey Hi all,I have sort of a goofy question....I = down and am getting ready to glue up a pair of spinning rods...the = from the archives...my question is:...now that I have ventured this far = building process I've decided I ought to see what the stress curve looks = like...only problem is..I don't know how to calculate stresses on a = anyway....any help would be greatly appreciated... thanks,losey from teekay35@interlynx.net Thu Aug 2 11:42:20 2001 f72GgJZ05350 Subject: Re: Planing form stations This is a multi-part message in MIME format. If all the push/pull screws are the same size and are on the same side =it is easier to adjust the form. I find that as you approach the =setting that you want I'm tweaking first one screw, then the other as I =watch the dial indicator needle come to the depth i want. I use a =ratchet wrench with a hex tip to fit the socket head screws, so its easy =to adjust one then the other at each station. I also machined a pocket =into the base of my indicator base and glued a magnet into it so the =indicator is not easily knocked off the form. If all the push/pull screws are the = as you approach the setting that you want I'm tweaking first one screw, = other as I watch the dial indicator needle come to the depth i = a ratchet wrench with a hex tip to fit the socket head screws, so its = the base of my indicator base and glued a magnet into it so the = from jvswan@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 11:55:24 2001 f72GtNZ06056 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108 Subject: Re: Planing form stations This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --B_3079594502_126949 Wayne, It occurred to me, when looking at the photos on Thomas Penrose=B9s siterecently, that if the adjustments are on either side of the forms you couldadjust them simultaneously while keeping an eye on your depth gauge (seephoto of his on his site). The other style means you have to adjust one,and then the other, and then back again until it is correct. Probably not a =B3biggie=B2 in the grand scheme of things, but maybe alittlehassle free. Jason On 8/2/01 9:40 AM, "Wayne Kifer" wrote: Good morning all,I have a couple of questions pertaining to forms this morning. The fi=rstregarding the placement of the steel pins in the push pull form. Wayne C.suggests placing the pin between the set screw and pull bolt at each stat=ion.Penrose suggests placing the set screw and pull bolt together at each sta=tionwith the pin midway between each station. With both variations there is t=heoption to place the set screw on the opposite side of the form from the p=ullbolt. My inclination would be going with Penrose and putting the set scre=w onthe opposite side of the form. Why would this not be the preferablemetho=d, ifindeed there is one?My second question is on swelled butt forms. My inclination is to cre=ateone form that will do both using the standard 2 1/2" distance betweensta=tionson the lower butt portion of the form. If I wished to go from .150 to .25=5 forinstance, could I accomplish this with the last three stations at 2 1/2"without permately tweaking my forms, or would I need to increase that to=thelast four stations? Pros and Cons? Thanks, Wayne :^) --B_3079594502_126949 Re: Planing form stations Wayne, It occurred to me, when looking at the photos on Thomas Penrose’ssit=e recently, that if the adjustments are on either side of the forms you coul=d adjust them simultaneously while keeping an eye on your depth gauge (seep= one=, and then the other, and then back again until it is correct. Probably not a “biggie” in the grand scheme of things, butmayb=e a little hassle free. Jason wrot=e: Goodmorning all, th=is morning. The first regarding the placement of the steel pins in the push =pull form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the set screw and pull=bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set screw and pull bolt t=ogether at each station with the pin midway between each station. With both=variations there is the option to place the set screw on the opposite side o=f the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would be going with Penrose an=d putting the set screw on the opposite side of the form. Why would thisnot=be the preferable method, if indeed there is one? inc=lination is to create one form that will do both using the standard 2 1/2&qu=ot; distance between stations on the lower butt portion of the form. If I wi=shed to go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this with the =last three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my forms, orw=ould I need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and Cons?Thank=s, Wayne :^) --B_3079594502_126949-- from anglport@con2.com Thu Aug 2 12:02:05 2001 f72H24Z06617 Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 Jason,I wonder how many of the responses you got were from fellows using theJon McAnulty oven that mounted the interior tube centrally and placedstationary finned turbine baldes around it to hold it in place and swirl theheat as it poceeded down the outer cylinder. That might increase theevenness of the heating. I went the simpler way myself after seeing otherstake the easy way out ( mounting the inner chamber to one wall of the outer)so I'm only wondering about its effect here.You can see Jon's at: http://www.canerod.com/rodmakers/tips/jmHotairOven.html and Don Anderson has one at: http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/tips/daoven.html Art from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 2 12:29:02 2001 f72HT2Z08203 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Straightener All,I found an old photo of Sam Carlson's straightener. You might be interested in this clever approach.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener.jpg -- Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Thu Aug 2 12:39:14 2001 f72HdDZ08869 2001 10:39:14 PDT Subject: Re: Difference in heat treating ovens bill , if you plug the hole you illiminate surculationand you now would have a radiant heat oven. why notconcider putting some sort of exhaust fan on the output. timothy --- Bill Hoy wrote:I'm not entirely satisfied with my heatgun oven. Ican get up to temp with no problem, but it's still hotter at the bottom thanat the top. Horizontal positioning makes it much worse. I use theprofessional grade craftsman gun, which is rugged and seems well made ( I thinkit's a Steinhell). But it doesn't seem to move a lot of air. Would gettinga gun with a more powerful fan work better? Which one? One wierd thing I've noticed, is that if I plug theexhaust hole at the top of the oven, temps at the top end actually go DOWN!Any ideas? bill At 03:29 PM 8/1/2001 -0600, Rex Tutor wrote:I just finished my oven. It is an element ovenright out of Waynesbook. If you aren't handy with electrical, a heatgun might beeasier to deal with. I use a heat gun to straightenrods. I have usedmy oven twice and had to repair it both times . Thethermostat wasdifficult to figure out. Finding the element wasnot easy and Icould get a great heat gun for the price of theelement. I think youare going to want a heat gun for nodes, if youdon't go nodeless ,anyway . I may yet have to build another over withthe heatgun. Sign up for a free About Email account athttp://About.com ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu Aug 2 12:57:18 2001 f72HvHZ09803 MAA14019 MAA23613 (5.5.2650.21) Subject: RE: Straightener this looks like a modified version of the one in Ray Goulds book. Patrick W. CoffeyAOG Incident Repair PlanningPhone: 425-234-2901Fax: 425-237-0083M-2112 M/C 61-79 ---------- Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 10:31 AM Subject: Straightener All,I found an old photo of Sam Carlson's straightener. You might be interested in this clever approach.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener.jpg -- Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 2 12:57:44 2001 f72HvhZ09873 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Another Straightener This one is simpler, also one of Sam's, also using a wooden (maple) cam.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener2.jpg -- Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from jvswan@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 13:03:07 2001 f72I36Z10505 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108 Subject: Re: Straightener Ok, I'm curious. How is it used? Looks like a sure fire finger smasher tome. Jason On 8/2/01 11:31 AM, "Reed Curry" wrote: All,I found an old photo of Sam Carlson's straightener. You might beinterested in this clever approach.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener.jpg from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 2 13:09:34 2001 f72I9XZ12030 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Straightener Jason,Oh, it is, it is...The maple handle has a cam on the inner end that forces the slidingblock toward the fixed block. Any of the various curved faces of the blocks can be locked in place to mate with one another, according to the amount of reverse curvature necessary to straighten the cane.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/Jason Swan wrote: Ok, I'm curious. How is it used? Looks like a sure fire finger smasher tome. Jason On 8/2/01 11:31 AM, "Reed Curry" wrote: All,I found an old photo of Sam Carlson's straightener. You might beinterested in this clever approach.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener.jpg -- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 2 13:10:40 2001 f72IAeZ12246 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 11:03:10 -0700 Subject: Re: Straightener Reed,This looks a little like some of the straightening jigs in Ray Gould'sbook, doesn't it? Thanks for the pic,Harry Reed Curry wrote: All,I found an old photo of Sam Carlson's straightener. You might beinterested in this clever approach.http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/straightener.jpg --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 2 13:15:51 2001 f72IFoZ13236 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Re: Straightener Harry and all,Sorry for the bandwidth. I don't have Ray's book so I wasn't aware that he used the same straightener as Sam.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Harry Boyd wrote: Reed,This looks a little like some of the straightening jigs in Ray Gould'sbook, doesn't it? Thanks for the pic,Harry Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church -- from grnmtrods@outdrs.net Thu Aug 2 13:16:56 2001 f72IGtZ13431 Subject: Re: 3m polishes Thanks all for the help with finding the 3m products. After the vet leavesI'm out the door ,going scouting. Thanks again,Jim Christman----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: 3m polishes I was able to get the Meguire's polishes at Pep boys. They carry some ofthe 3M, but not the Finesse IT. SO, I used Perfect and then the Meguire's#7 and #9. It polished spar and PU very nicely.Bob At 11:37 AM 8/2/2001 -0400, you wrote:Hello list, I've been checking all of my local spots out for the 3m polishingsuppliesthat were listed the other day and I am not having any luck finding them. If someone mite know of a chain that is selling them please let me know .Also, you don't think that they mite have a different name? thanks,Jim Christman from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 2 13:47:52 2001 f72IlqZ15725 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 11:41:05 -0700 Subject: Re: Straightener Reed,No need for an apology. I don't think it's exactly the same since I don'thaveRay's book in front of me. Perhaps Ray will chime in, if he's not off fishing! Harry Reed Curry wrote: Harry and all,Sorry for the bandwidth. I don't have Ray's book so I wasn't awarethathe used the same straightener as Sam.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Harry Boyd wrote: Reed,This looks a little like some of the straightening jigs in Ray Gould'sbook, doesn't it? Thanks for the pic,Harry Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church -- --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from dnorl@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 13:52:09 2001 f72Iq9Z16124 (63.228.46.26) Subject: Re: Straightener This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Here is one that works for me Reed. By now though Everyone is likely gun shyof attachments. This is Bill Waara's and the simple node filing board is from John Bokstrom. The 2 of them together make on heck of a team. Twovenerable names in the art of rod making.Dave Norling-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Straightener Harry and all,Sorry for the bandwidth. I don't have Ray's book so I wasn't aware thathe used the same straightener as Sam.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Harry Boyd wrote: Reed,This looks a little like some of the straightening jigs in RayGould'sbook, doesn't it? Thanks for the pic,Harry Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church from rextutor@about.com Thu Aug 2 14:04:25 2001 f72J4PZ17117 (NPlex 5.5.029) 2001 11:59:21 -0700 Subject: Jeff bamboo fly rod magazines DId you ever sell all your bamboo fly rodmagazines ? Sign up fora free About Email account at http://About.com from anglport@con2.com Thu Aug 2 14:33:11 2001 f72JXBZ19989 Subject: Dealing with attachments Some of the fellows on the list seem to be novices when computing comesup so I'll suggest this to them.I'm using Windows 2000 ME and Outlook Express so this may vary slightlybut not much from edition to edition (though a similar setup worked forWin95, Eudora and McAfee on my old machine).When I get an attachment that's suspect, I save it to a file(right-click it and one option is "Save as" ) I created called "E- mailQuarantine" (I earlier went to Windows Explorer and after clicking "MyDocuments", hit "File" at the top of the window, "New" on the dropdown, and"Folder" on the expansion that occurred. That created a subfolder in "MyDocuments" called "E-mail Quarantine) and then right-click it. That offersup a "Scan with Norton Antivirus" option (among other choices) which Ichoose and then I feel somewhat confident that I can open the file Ireceived.Sooner or later I'll get burned with this and realize why I was a jerk(or lucky) until then, but so far so good!Hope this saves someone some grief,Art of attachments. from rcurry@ttlc.net Thu Aug 2 14:38:53 2001 f72JcqZ20489 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 Subject: Dave Norling's attachments Dave sent some sketches, as attachments, of the devices he uses. We are currently justifiably wary of attachments, so I saved his sketches to my website. Here is Dave's message for those that auto-deleted it: "Here is one that works for me Reed. By now though Everyone is likely gun shyof attachments. This is Bill Waara's and the simple node filing board is from John Bokstrom. The 2 of them together make on heck of a team. Twovenerable names in the art of rod making.Dave Norling"The jpgs are at:http://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/nodepress.jpgandhttp://www.overmywaders.com/extracts/filenode.jpg the Push Toggle Clamp Dave uses can be found athttp://www.grizzlyindustrial.com/fcgi- bin/lookup.fcgi/products/lookup.cfg?q=item&kw=G1777-- Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Aug 2 14:59:24 2001 f72JxOZ21777 f72JxOq09010 Subject: Re: Planing form stations Wayne,I have two sets of forms, home made and storebought. The store bought has the setting screws onthe same side. I find it awkward to set. My homemade ones has the push pull screws on oppositesides. I find it real convenient to set. I use "T"handle allen wrenches and it works as good as Iwant it to. This may not be for everyone. Do whatyou feel will work best for you.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Wayne Kifer wrote: Good morning all, I have a couple ofquestions pertaining to forms this morning. Thefirst regarding the placement of the steel pinsin the push pull form. Wayne C. suggests placingthe pin between the set screw and pull bolt ateach station. Penrose suggests placing the setscrew and pull bolt together at each stationwith the pin midway between each station. Withboth variations there is the option to place theset screw on the opposite side of the form fromthe pull bolt. My inclination would be goingwith Penrose and putting the set screw on theopposite side of the form. Why would this not bethe preferable method, if indeed there isone? My second question is on swelled buttforms. My inclination is to create one form thatwill do both using the standard 2 1/2" distancebetween stations on the lower butt portion ofthe form. If I wished to go from .150 to .255 last three stations at 2 1/2" without permatelytweaking my forms, or would I need to increasethat to the last four stations? Pros and Cons?Thanks, Wayne :^) from jczimny@dol.net Thu Aug 2 15:20:46 2001 f72KKcZ23469 Organization: J. C. Zimny Rod Company Subject: Re: 3m polishes Any auto paint store will supply this item.John Z JAMES Christman wrote: Hello list, I've been checking all of my local spots out for the 3m polishing suppliesthat were listed the other day and I am not having any luck finding them. If someone mite know of a chain that is selling them please let me know .Also, you don't think that they mite have a different name? thanks,Jim Christman from ChristopherO@epicimaging.com Thu Aug 2 15:31:06 2001 f72KV5Z24228 Subject: RE: Taper suggestion This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. try the PHY martha marie. it's a 7'6" medium fast rod, but still has theparabolic kick to it.it's a very light wieght rod, because of the taper design, but very strong,and will lay out very long casts.i fish a WF six on it, some use a double taper five. i've caught everything from small trout, panfish, large & small mouth bass,and even three steelhead this past spring on the rod (the biggest steeliewas 9 or ten pounds). i posted the taper, along with a whole bunch of other PHY tapers within thelast year. search the archives. chris try parabolic kick to it.it's a very light wieght rod, because of the taper design, but very strong, and will lay out very long casts.i fish a WF six on it, some use a double taper five. i've caught everything from small trout, panfish, large & small mouth bass,and even three steelhead this past spring on the rod (the biggest steelie was 9or ten pounds). i posted the taper, along with a whole bunch of other PHY tapers within thelast chris from saweiss@flash.net Thu Aug 2 16:10:31 2001 f72LAQZ25639 Subject: Re: Planing form stations Organization: Prodigy Internet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Re: Planing form stationsWayne,You should use two wrenches at the same time, whether the bolts are =together or on opposite sides, and keep your eye on the depth gauge =while tweaking the pull and push bolts. You need to do it this way =because each adjustment will move the other one as you tighten the bolt.SteveOn 8/2/01 9:40 AM, "Wayne Kifer" wrote: Good morning all,I have a couple of questions pertaining to forms this morning. =The first regarding the placement of the steel pins in the push pull =form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the set screw and pull =bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set screw and pull =bolt together at each station with the pin midway between each station. =With both variations there is the option to place the set screw on the =opposite side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would be =going with Penrose and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the =form. Why would this not be the preferable method, if indeed there is =one?My second question is on swelled butt forms. My inclination is =to create one form that will do both using the standard 2 1/2" distance =between stations on the lower butt portion of the form. If I wished to =go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this with the last =three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my forms, or would I =need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and Cons? Thanks, = Re: Planing form stations Wayne,You should use two wrenches at the same time, whether = together or on opposite sides, and keep your eye on the depth gauge = tweaking the pull and push bolts. You need to do it this way because = adjustment will move theother = you tighten the bolt.SteveOn 8/2/01 9:40 AM, "Wayne Kifer" = wrote: forms this morning. The first regarding the placement of the steel = the push pull form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the = and pull bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set = pull bolt together at each station with the pin midway between each = With both variations there is the option to place the set screw on = opposite side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would = with Penrose and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the = My inclination is to create one form that will do both using the = 1/2" distance between stations on the lower butt portion of the = wished to go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this = the last three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my = would I need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and = Thanks, Wayne :^) from saweiss@flash.net Thu Aug 2 16:10:34 2001 f72LASZ25643 f72LAHr278264 form stations Organization: Prodigy Internet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Re: Planing form stationsWayne,You should use two wrenches at the same time, whether the bolts are =together or on opposite sides, and keep your eye on the depth gauge =while tweaking the pull and push bolts. You need to do it this way =because each adjustment will move the other one as you tighten the bolt.SteveOn 8/2/01 9:40 AM, "Wayne Kifer" wrote: Good morning all,I have a couple of questions pertaining to forms this morning. =The first regarding the placement of the steel pins in the push pull =form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the set screw and pull =bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set screw and pull =bolt together at each station with the pin midway between each station. =With both variations there is the option to place the set screw on the =opposite side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would be =going with Penrose and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the =form. Why would this not be the preferable method, if indeed there is =one?My second question is on swelled butt forms. My inclination is =to create one form that will do both using the standard 2 1/2" distance =between stations on the lower butt portion of the form. If I wished to =go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this with the last =three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my forms, or would I =need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and Cons? Thanks, = Re: Planing form stations Wayne,You should use two wrenches at the same time, whether = together or on opposite sides, and keep your eye on the depth gauge = tweaking the pull and push bolts. You need to do it this way because = adjustment will move theother = you tighten the bolt.SteveOn 8/2/01 9:40 AM, "Wayne Kifer" = wrote: forms this morning. The first regarding the placement of the steel = the push pull form. Wayne C. suggests placing the pin between the = and pull bolt at each station. Penrose suggests placing the set = pull bolt together at each station with the pin midway between each = With both variations there is the option to place the set screw on = opposite side of the form from the pull bolt. My inclination would = with Penrose and putting the set screw on the opposite side of the = My inclination is to create one form that will do both using the = 1/2" distance between stations on the lower butt portion of the = wished to go from .150 to .255 for instance, could I accomplish this = the last three stations at 2 1/2" without permately tweaking my = would I need to increase that to the last four stations? Pros and = Thanks, Wayne :^) from dannyt@frisurf.no Thu Aug 2 16:10:49 2001 f72LAlZ25682 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh- Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Plane tuning Hi folks, I'm having trouble truing up the base on one of my block plane, it is convexlenghtways. After I've tried the usually methode with paper on a flatsurface, I'm just making it more more convex. Anyone with a clever idea outthere? TIA,danny from rjwlawed@msn.com Thu Aug 2 16:15:14 2001 f72LFDZ26326 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 14:15:08 -0700 Subject: Re: Dealing with attachments FILETIME=[3555D100:01C11B98] thanks art,i'm one of those novices. i've been extremely lucky so far as not=to have gotten anything. i have win 98,outlook and mcaffy. so am i corre=ct in thinking your process should work for me?this last rush of viruses =was actually the first time i've had to deal with anything like that.to b=e honest with you, i have yet to hear a warning go off from my pc. i imme=diately deleted all the mails that came from the sources everyone was ge=tting and ran checks a few times a day to be sure.they always came up "no=virus", i almost want to open one just to see what happens with mcaffy. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Dealing with attachments Some of the fellows on the list seem to be novices when computing com=esup so I'll suggest this to them.I'm using Windows 2000 ME and Outlook Express so this may vary sligh=tlybut not much from edition to edition (though a similar setup worked forWin95, Eudora and McAfee on my old machine).When I get an attachment that's suspect, I save it to a file(right-click it and one option is "Save as" ) I created called "E- mailQuarantine" (I earlier went to Windows Explorer and after clicking "MyDocuments", hit "File" at the top of the window, "New" on the dropdown, a=nd"Folder" on the expansion that occurred. That created a subfolder in "MyDocuments" called "E-mail Quarantine) and then right-click it. That offer=sup a "Scan with Norton Antivirus" option (among other choices) which Ichoose and then I feel somewhat confident that I can open the file Ireceived.Sooner or later I'll get burned with this and realize why I was a jer=k(or lucky) until then, but so far so good!Hope this saves someone some grief,Art of attachments. thanks novi=ces. i've been extremely lucky so far as not to have gotten anything. i h=ave win 98,outlook and mcaffy. so am i correct in thinking your process s=hould work for me?this last rush of viruses was actually the first time i='ve had to deal with anything like that.to be honest with you, i have yet=to hear a warning go off from my pc. i immediately deleted all the mail=s that came from the sources everyone was getting and ran checks a fewti=mes a day to be sure.they always came up "no virus", i almost want to ope= ----- Original Message ----- From: Art PortSent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 2:47PM= Address=Cc: rod Subject: Dealing with attachments&n= n=ovices when computing comesup so I'll suggest this to =may vary slightlybut not much from edition to edition (though a simil=ar setup worked forWin95, Eudora and McAfee on my oldmachine).&n= file(right-click it and one option is "Save as" ) I created called "E=- mailQuarantine" (I earlier went to Windows Explorer and after clicki=ng "MyDocuments", hit "File" at the top of the window, "New" on the d=ropdown, and"Folder" on the expansion that occurred. That created a s=ubfolder in "MyDocuments" called "E-mail Quarantine) and then right-c=lick it. That offersup a "Scan with Norton Antivirus" option (among o=ther choices) which Ichoose and then I feel somewhat confident that I= 'll get burned with this and realize why I was a jerk(or lucky) until= = likely g= attachments. from bob@downandacross.com Thu Aug 2 16:33:38 2001 f72LXbZ27211 Subject: Re: Dave Norling's attachments Dave and Reed:Great stuff. Thanks. I have a neat third one from Hein Schrooten. I posted it here:http://www.powerfibers.com/straightener.jpgThanks,Bob At 03:37 PM 8/2/2001 -0400, Reed Curry wrote:Dave sent some sketches, as attachments, of the devices he uses. We are currently justifiably wary of attachments, so I saved his sketches to my website. Here is Dave's message for those that auto-deleted it: from TSmithwick@aol.com Thu Aug 2 17:41:09 2001 f72Mf8Z28893 Subject: Re: Plane tuning In a message dated 8/2/1 9:12:34 PM, dannyt@frisurf.no writes: Danny - I would put the plane upside down in a vise. Draw file the center of the sole until it no longer protrudes and causes the plane to rock when you move it. Then finish with the grit or emery cloth on a flat surface as usual. An automotive body file make really quick work of this sort of thing. - Tom from jvswan@earthlink.net Thu Aug 2 17:52:33 2001 f72MqWZ29300 User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.2509Subject: Dial indicators Ok, I have another equipment question. Can you tell I'm in the windup? I have been looking for dial indicators. I have found many from the lessexpensive Enco to the more expensive Starret. However, none of them seemtohave the base thing that I have seen in photographs. Should I be looking how they would work, well at least, without one. Can you buy themaftermarket, so to speak? And what about the 60 degree points? Noneseemto have one on them. I have seen that those can be purchased separately,but are they standardized? Will they fit most indicators? I should probably check the archives first, so I apologize if I am using upspace for a question that has already been answered. Thanks in advance, Jason from chris_wohlford@yahoo.com Thu Aug 2 18:35:58 2001 f72NZvZ00266 Thu, 02 Aug 2001 16:35:58 PDT Subject: Re: 3m polishes Harry,Great story! Much more fun then the new fangled hightech method I used by visiting:http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/aad/wheretobuy.jhtml --- Harry Boyd wrote:James, I spent a wonderful hour the other day in anAuto Paint store. I've livedin this area for 43 years and never knew such a __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from oandc@email.msn.com Thu Aug 2 19:56:13 2001 f730uCZ01458 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 17:56:11 -0700 Subject: Swelled butts FILETIME=[16D92820:01C11BB7] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. A trip through the archives helped but did not adequately address my =question. Yes, I was overlooking the grip and reel seat section. Having =stated that the question still remains where to place the stations and =how many to use. Harry liked stations 3 thru 5. Mark Cole mentioned =Frank's forms placing intermediate 2 12" at the 7th (thru?) 11th =station. Perhaps some of you making swelled but rods might respond with =where the 2 1/2" stations are located on your forms. ThanksWayne A trip through the archives helped but= adequately address my question. Yes, I was overlooking the grip and reel = section. Having stated that the question still remains where to place = stations and how many to use. Harry liked stations 3 thru 5. Mark Cole = Frank's forms placing intermediate 2 12" at the 7th (thru?) 11th = Perhaps some of you making swelled but rods might respond with where the= stations are located on your forms. ThanksWayne from irish-george@chartermi.net Thu Aug 2 20:08:43 2001 [24.213.60.123] (may be forged)) f7318gZ01795 Subject: Re:Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig Shawn, catalogs. The sites are:http://www.campbelltools.comhttp://www.bluemountainmachinery.com Campbell Tools sells a lot of stuff for model makers (small lathes, mills,materials, etc) and Blue Mountain Machinery sell machinery and parts formetalworking hobbyists (i.e., stuff for around 9-10" lathes). Blue Mountaincurrently has the distribution and manufacture rights for what used to bethe non-CNC portion of the Emco-Maier (Austrian) brand of lathe that madethe later Unimats and Maximats. One other brand you may wish toinvestigateis Sakai...they have been advertising on the back cover of Home ShopMachinist magazine (out of Traverse City, Michigan). For getting a nicefinish on metal, you'll want to have a "power longitudinal feed" on whateverlathe you get...if you want to turn anything while mounted to the blank,you'll want to compare the spindle hole size to the diameter of your rodblanks. Good luck,George----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re:Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig OK, a great choice.My question now is which lathe the Taig or Sherline would be a betterchoice? Which onecomes with the most accessories to accomplish what I want to do(ferrules,reelseats/inserts tube caps, and winding checks??Which lathes accessories are less expensive. Any idea onavailability ofparts/accessories here in Canada?? Sorry for the bandwidth, but I amratherinexperienced in this field and got burned with my Jet wood lathe.Is there someone who has a site of directions to build things likereel seats,ferrules and such??Shawn from irish-george@chartermi.net Thu Aug 2 20:19:22 2001 [24.213.60.123] (may be forged)) f731JMZ02127 "Rodmakers Mail" Subject: Re: Lathe Help Probably two of the best sources (in general) for information, if not parts,are:Dave at Meridian Machinery http://www.mermac.comand Scott Logan of Logan Actuator http://www.loganact.com Dave is a dealer of used machinery and does part out stuff and ispractically a walking encyclopedia of knowledge. Scott Logan formerlyproduced the Logan Lathes...even though your lathe isn't a Logan, I've seenScott help out literally hundreds of folks (myself included) who posted torec.crafts.metalworking a request for either parts or info. Since Dave hasa chance to make a buck here, I'd try him first and use Scott for a lastresort. Good luck,George PS--There is a company in the New England area that advertises in the backof Home Shop Machinist and usually has a 12-15 page list of lathe parts aswell as manufacturing some replacements. I have bought from him beforewithexcellent results, but unfortunately the name escapes me at the moment. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Lathe Help While trying to decide what kind of small lathe that I should acquire, Ihada stroke of very good fortune. A friend at work gave (Price= 0) me asmallCraftsman metal lathe. The lathe is cast iron with a series of spur gearsto drive the cross slide. Spare gears were included. It is a modelnumber109.21270. Sears says that it was made by Emerson and parts are nolongeravailable. I would describe it as a 6" by 12" or maybe a 6" by 16" as itis12" from the drive spindle to the tailstock and 16" from the drive spindleto the right end of the ways. The lathe appears quite usable except for three missing pieces. There isnodrive pulley for the external motor. (Solvable) There is no chuck on thespindle but only a 1/2-20 RH thread. The through-hole in the spindle isabout .350". Sherline appears to sell a version of their small 3- jawchuckwith this thread. The lathe has a cross slide with a rotating compoundslide but no tool post. The cross slide has a transverse slot for a T nutwith a .575" throat and a .770" bottom space. The top of this slot isonly.500" below the centerline of the spindle. Looks like the missing toolpostwas a long, low cantilevered device. and2) what does the tool post that I am looking for look like? Any Internetlinks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, JJS from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 2 20:54:30 2001 f731sTZ02877 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 18:46:57 -0700 Subject: Re: Dial indicators Jason, The dial indicator base I use is from Enco. Phone number is (800)873-3626.www.use-enco.com Price is $11.95. Part # 610-5000, page 303 in the fullcatalog. I can send pictures of it if you like. at Goldenwitch. Do NOT buy the point set from Enco. Harry standard disclaimer -- I do not own Enco, or Goldenwitch -- even though bothofthem ought to give me some stock for all the money I've spent with them. Jason Swan wrote: Ok, I have another equipment question. Can you tell I'm in the windup? I have been looking for dial indicators. I have found many from the lessexpensive Enco to the more expensive Starret. However, none of themseem tohave the base thing that I have seen in photographs. Should I be looking how they would work, well at least, without one. Can you buy themaftermarket, so to speak? And what about the 60 degree points? Noneseemto have one on them. I have seen that those can be purchased separately,but are they standardized? Will they fit most indicators? I should probably check the archives first, so I apologize if I am using upspace for a question that has already been answered. Thanks in advance, Jason --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Thu Aug 2 20:55:23 2001 f731tMZ03064 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 18:48:36 -0700 Subject: Re: 3m polishes Chris, That's way too easy!! Harry Chris Wohlford wrote: Harry,Great story! Much more fun then the new fangled hightech method I used by visiting:http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/aad/wheretobuy.jhtml from rsgould@cmc.net Thu Aug 2 21:13:43 2001 f732DgZ03770 Subject: Re: Swelled butts This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hi Wayne,On one of my forms, a 6 ft long model, the butt section stations are = from 35 to 105". I put additional screws at stations 72 1/2, 77 1/2", 82 =1/2", 87 1/2" and 92 1/2 ". This gives a lot of flexibilty in the butt =swell design and position.Ray Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 5:57 PMSubject: Swelled butts A trip through the archives helped but did not adequately address my =question. Yes, I was overlooking the grip and reel seat section. Having =stated that the question still remains where to place the stations and =how many to use. Harry liked stations 3 thru 5. Mark Cole mentioned =Frank's forms placing intermediate 2 12" at the 7th (thru?) 11th =station. Perhaps some of you making swelled but rods might respond with =where the 2 1/2" stations are located on your forms. ThanksWayne Hi Wayne,On one of my forms, a 6 ft long model,= section stations are from 35 to 105". I put additional screws at = 1/2, 77 1/2", 82 1/2", 87 1/2" and 92 1/2 ". This gives a lot of = the butt swell design and position.Ray ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001= PMSubject: Swelled butts A trip through the archives helped = adequately address my question. Yes, I was overlooking the grip and = section. Having stated that the question still remains where to place = stations and how many to use. Harry liked stations 3 thru 5. Mark Cole = mentioned Frank's forms placing intermediate 2 12" at the 7th (thru?) = station. Perhaps some of you making swelled but rods might respond = the 2 1/2" stations are located on your forms. ThanksWayne from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Thu Aug 2 21:52:51 2001 f732qoZ04390 Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 I've found that propping the heat gun nozzle about 6" from the heat chamberimproves circulation and consistency of temperature between the front andback. This is with a horizontal oven. I'm not sure why this works, but itdoes for me. Tom At 09:35 AM 08/02/2001 -0600, Jason Swan wrote:Hi all, Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. I only wish theresponseswent to the whole list. from the responses I had, the only real drawback to the heat gun oven istheinconsistent temps from the proximal to the distal end of the heatchamber.While some people haven't had a problem with that, some have. This hasalsobeen a problem with element ovens as well. But instead of lower temps atthe top, or end in the case of horizontal ovens, the temps are lower at theextremities of the strips (the farther out you go the cooler it gets)resulting in more cooking in the middle, and in some cases, uneven color. The key seems to be in air flow. The most successful, and consistent,ovenshave a high degree of air flow. Is that right? So, direct, or radiant heatovens need a good fan and air gun ovens need a gun with a high cfs rate. So, it looks like I will be making a heat gun oven because it will probablybe better than a cheap radiant heat oven (what I can afford at the moment,at least). What I am wondering, for you oven gurus out there, is what wouldhappen if I put a small vent at the top of the interior heating chamber,several inches below the exhaust opening at the top? My thinking is that itwould allow some of the heat that doesn't go up the heat chamber to exitthemain chamber and add more heat at the top of the heat chamber. Will thiswork? Does it make sense? Would it mess up the convection action byallowing an additional place for the heat in the heating chamber to escape? Also, would the heat be more consistent in the heating chamber if a small(3") turbine was added at the bottom? This would create a sort of twistereffect in the chamber (hey, if it works in vacuum cleaners, why notovens?).Would the movement of the air allow for a more homogenous temp.throughout? Anyway, thanks again for all the help. For those of you wishing to respondto my question, share your insight with the rest of the group. I know thatthe responses that I received from my last question were more thanappropriate for the list, and I'm sure there are several people at least,besides myself, who could benefit from this discussion. Besides, it seemslike the virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. Jason from channer@frontier.net Thu Aug 2 22:20:44 2001 f733KhZ05103 Subject: Re: Swelled butts Wayne, My forms have them between the last 3 staions on the lage end(came thatway), but I never use them, I like a longer swell better, so I jsut makethe swell in the last 5" before the cork.John Wayne Kifer wrote: A trip through the archives helped but did not adequately address myquestion. Yes, I was overlooking the grip and reel seat section.Having stated that the question still remains where to place thestations and how many to use. Harry liked stations 3 thru 5. Mark Colementioned Frank's forms placing intermediate 2 12" at the 7th (thru?)11th station. Perhaps some of you making swelled but rods mightrespond with where the 2 1/2" stations are located on your forms.ThanksWayne from martinj@aa.net Thu Aug 2 22:23:09 2001 f733N8Z05313 Thu, 2 Aug 2001 20:23:05 -0700 Subject: RE: Plane tuning Are you trying to flatten it with the blade removed? I put mine(blade)in and then back the blade up so that it doesn't protrude. Thatway, the plane has the normal amount of distortion (if any)that it wouldhave when you put the plane blade down to plane. I flattened mine on adisk sander followed by a precision flat plate that we had at work.Kinda like cheating. -----Original Message----- Subject: Plane tuning Hi folks, I'm having trouble truing up the base on one of my block plane, it isconvexlenghtways. After I've tried the usually methode with paper on a flatsurface, I'm just making it more more convex. Anyone with a clever ideaoutthere? TIA,danny from saweiss@flash.net Thu Aug 2 23:25:34 2001 f734PXZ06324 f734PWr61810 Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 Organization: Prodigy Internet Tom,Do you use an extension pipe for the separation, or just hang it out theresix inches away?Steve I've found that propping the heat gun nozzle about 6" from the heatchamberimproves circulation and consistency of temperature between the frontandthe virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. from TBOWDEN@halcyon.com Fri Aug 3 01:11:01 2001 f736B0Z07822 Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 Steve, I just prop the heat gun nozzle a few inches from the tube. Nothing but airin between. I know this sounds goofy, but it seems to work. I originally cut a hole in a piece of sheet metal for the nozzle and placedit right up against the oven. If I turned the heat gun up high enough tokeep the temperature at the far end at 325-350, the temperature at thenearend would go up over 400. Just out of curiosity I moved the plate back afew inches and all of a sudden I could keep the temperature much closer. I'm sure the real root cause of the problem is a poorly designed, amatueroven. But it seems to work for me. Tom At 10:25 PM 08/02/2001 -0600, STEVEN A WEISS wrote:Tom,Do you use an extension pipe for the separation, or just hang it out theresix inches away?Steve I've found that propping the heat gun nozzle about 6" from the heatchamberimproves circulation and consistency of temperature between the frontandthe virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. from canazon@mindspring.com Fri Aug 3 03:16:36 2001 f738GaZ09047 Subject: re: lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. george,i have been looking for a lathe for almost a year now and i am =holding back , mainly , because i've read that you need a 10" swing over =the bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most lathes i've looked at =either don't list the swing over bed, or they have a swing less than =10", or i can't afford it if they do. i know nothing about lathes, but = or am i ..........mike c. george, = you need a 10" swing over the bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most = i've looked at either don't list the swing over bed, or they have a = but maybe you can tell me if i need a 10" swing from rjwlawed@msn.com Fri Aug 3 06:09:04 2001 f73B93Z10332 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 04:08:59 -0700 Subject: Re: lathes FILETIME=[B1D2C4D0:01C11C0C] hi mike,i'm new to the list an to bamboo, but i have a fairly good grasp on mac=hinery and wood working and your post caught my attention. i think you ma=y be confused about what is needed . ance from chuck- center to bed rail measured vertically. here only a coup=le of inches is all that's needed. the 10 inches might be what a guy shou=ld have minimally in horizontal distance between chuck and tail stock. it=is about what you need to get the lenght of a grip and reelseat between =centers for shaping and sanding. i think any one of the minilathes will m=eet that requirement. that's why they're so popular for rodbuilders....th=ey meet the requirements without buying more lathe than you need.the holy grail exhists!.........ron ----- Original Message ----- Subject: re: lathes george,i have been looking for a lathe for almost a year now and i am hold=ing back , mainly , because i've read that you need a 10" swing over the =bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most lathes i've looked at either d=on't list the swing over bed, or they have a swing less than 10", or i ca=n't afford it if they do. i know nothing about lathes, but maybe you can= or am i ..........mike c. the=list an to bamboo, but i have a fairly good grasp on machinery and wood =working and your post caught my attention. i think you may be confused ab= eed 10 inches of "swing". that is the distance from chuck- center to bed =rail measured vertically. here only a couple of inches is all that's need=ed. the 10 inches might be what a guy should have minimally in horizontal=distance between chuck and tail stock. it is about what you need to get&=nbsp;the lenght of a grip and reelseat between centers for shaping and sa=nding. i think any one of the minilathes will meet that requirement. that='s why they're so popular for rodbuilders....they meet the requirements w=ithout buying more lathe than you need. rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu=Subject: re: lathes george, &nbs= ear now and i am holding back , mainly , because i've read that you need =a 10" swing over the bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most lathes i'=ve looked at either don't list the swing over bed, or they have a swing l= &nb= from rjwlawed@msn.com Fri Aug 3 06:18:58 2001 f73BIvZ10601 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 04:18:53 -0700 "rodmakers" Subject: Re: lathe/sprevious post FILETIME=[13FB9820:01C11C0E] that was strange.....that last post from me came through with my wife's n=ame. things that make you go hhhhmmmmmm ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: lathes hi mike,i'm new to the list an to bamboo, but i have a fairly good grasp on mac=hinery and wood working and your post caught my attention. i think you ma=y be confused about what is needed . ance from chuck- center to bed rail measured vertically. here only a coup=le of inches is all that's needed. the 10 inches might be what a guy shou=ld have minimally in horizontal distance between chuck and tail stock. it=is about what you need to get the lenght of a grip and reelseat between =centers for shaping and sanding. i think any one of the minilathes will m=eet that requirement. that's why they're so popular for rodbuilders....th=ey meet the requirements without buying more lathe than you need.the holy grail exhists!.........ron ----- Original Message ----- Subject: re: lathes george,i have been looking for a lathe for almost a year now and i am hold=ing back , mainly , because i've read that you need a 10" swing over the =bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most lathes i've looked at either d=on't list the swing over bed, or they have a swing less than 10", or i ca=n't afford it if they do. i know nothing about lathes, but maybe you can= or am i ..........mike c. that was strange.....that last post from =me came through with my wife's name. things that make you go Fr=om: LAURA WARD Sent: Fri= grasp on machinery and wood working and your post caught my attention. i = = e from chuck- center to bed rail measured vertically. here only a couple =of inches is all that's needed. the 10 inches might be what a guy should =have minimally in horizontal distance between chuck and tail stock. it is= n centers for shaping and sanding. i think any one of the minilathes will=meet that requirement. that's why they're so popular for rodbuilders....=they meet the requirements without buying more lathe than youneed.= Friday= lookin=g for a lathe for almost a year now and i am holding back , mainly , beca=use i've read that you need a 10" swing over the bed ( or center, i'm not=sure which). most lathes i've looked at either don't list the swing over=bed, or they have a swing less than 10", or i can't afford it if they do= n search of the holy grail from rjwlawed@msn.com Fri Aug 3 06:57:03 2001 f73Bv2Z11116 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 04:56:58 -0700 Subject: test FILETIME=[65F313B0:01C11C13] if it happens now, again. reaso=n my mail is going through with my wifes name. just seeing if it happens =now, again. from rodmaker@becclesworkshop.freeserve.co.uk Fri Aug 3 07:01:212001 f73C1KZ11358 helo=default) Subject: UK gathering 31Aug-2Sep 2001 Dear Friends, Just a final reminder that the UK Rodmakers Gathering will be held inShropshire from Friday 31st August - 2nd September. We still have a fewplaces free for those that are interested. The programme is still developing but we hope to cover such subjects as:Tools, history of split cane, impregnation, varnishing and drying, handmills and planing forms, gadgets, tapers and amateur perspectives. We also hope to include some casting, a silent auction and maybe evensome fishing! If you would like to know more then please contact:paul.blakley@ntlworld.comPaul Blakeley 01642 765138orrodmaker@becclesworkshop.freeserve.co.ukSarah Stonehewer- Ford 01502 717256 The weekend will be held at 'The Grange' which is the home of 'Waterlog'magazine who are sponsoring the event. The weekend will cost £120 (gbp)which will include accommodation, meals and coffees! There is a £20supplement for single ccupancy. If there is sufficient interest then we may also discuss thepossibilities of forming a guild or association to further the causeandpromote the benefits of cane rods. We will look forward to speaking and meeting with some of you soon. Tight Lines, Mark Ford from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Fri Aug 3 09:38:50 2001 f73EcnZ16902 09:40:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 Just to add my own experience or luck with a heat gun oven to the mix- theoven I built has virtually no temperature gradient from one end to the other(as measured by a thermometer attached to a coat hanger that I run invarious distances, close the oven and let it equilibrate and then whip outthe thermometer to get a reading- talk about Franken engineering! Its prettyclose, though, I'll bet). The complete design is on the Rodmakers web page.It is a horizontal design and has some baffles to create mixing andturbulence as you are describing below with another approach. I used a pieceof welders iron (right term?) to span the middle of the inner tube to make ashelf. This may modulate the heat some because its mass will act as a heatsink. I don't know if this is good or not but it is flat and straight andthat is what I was shooting for with the shelf to lay the sections on. I usethe Sears 2 speed adjustable heat gun. I run it on the high airflow settingand is about at 1/2 power or less to get the right temperatures. Thisdoesn't seem like a lot of strain for the gun so I don't expect to burn itout (haven't yet) but I also don't make mass numbers of rods. The biggestdrawback I have found with my oven is it is fairly bulky but I put rollercasters on the bottom so it is easy to move around and the outer box issturdy enough to stack things on so I don't lose much in the way of shopspace. I think the key to a heat gun oven is the two tubes and goodinsulation around the outer tube. Otherwise there is a lot of heat losswhich will create temperature gradients and put a lot of strain on your gun.That's my story and I'm sticking to it!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Heat guns, part 2 Hi all, Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. I only wish theresponseswent to the whole list. from the responses I had, the only real drawback to the heat gun oven istheinconsistent temps from the proximal to the distal end of the heatchamber.While some people haven't had a problem with that, some have. This hasalsobeen a problem with element ovens as well. But instead of lower temps atthe top, or end in the case of horizontal ovens, the temps are lower attheextremities of the strips (the farther out you go the cooler it gets)resulting in more cooking in the middle, and in some cases, uneven color. The key seems to be in air flow. The most successful, and consistent,ovenshave a high degree of air flow. Is that right? So, direct, or radiantheatovens need a good fan and air gun ovens need a gun with a high cfs rate. So, it looks like I will be making a heat gun oven because it willprobablybe better than a cheap radiant heat oven (what I can afford at themoment,at least). What I am wondering, for you oven gurus out there, is whatwouldhappen if I put a small vent at the top of the interior heating chamber,several inches below the exhaust opening at the top? My thinking is thatitwould allow some of the heat that doesn't go up the heat chamber to exitthemain chamber and add more heat at the top of the heat chamber. Will thiswork? Does it make sense? Would it mess up the convection action byallowing an additional place for the heat in the heating chamber toescape? Also, would the heat be more consistent in the heating chamber if a small(3") turbine was added at the bottom? This would create a sort of twistereffect in the chamber (hey, if it works in vacuum cleaners, why notovens?).Would the movement of the air allow for a more homogenous temp.throughout? Anyway, thanks again for all the help. For those of you wishing torespondto my question, share your insight with the rest of the group. I knowthatthe responses that I received from my last question were more thanappropriate for the list, and I'm sure there are several people at least,besides myself, who could benefit from this discussion. Besides, it seemslike the virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. Jason from baconrod@gsmrinc.com Fri Aug 3 10:46:53 2001 f73FkqZ21593 Subject: Re: Straightener Reed.Back a few years ago. Sam built and sold a straightner I, and Bob Gorman purchased units from Sam. The same as the pics.Best Hal. Bacon from cathcreek@hotmail.com Fri Aug 3 11:45:12 2001 f73GjBZ27119 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 09:45:07 -0700 Fri, 03 Aug 2001 16:45:07 GMT Subject: Re: Turning grips and cork reelseats. FILETIME=[A72C48B0:01C11C3B] I use drywall sandpaper. It really looks like screen material and works great on cork. I finish with 600 wet/dry stuff. Give it a shot-they have it at Walmart (no financial interest, yadayadaya). Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: Grhghlndr@aol.com Subject: Turning grips and cork reelseats.Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 21:39:42 EDT I was turning a grip and reelseat the other day when I got to thinking.There has to be a better way to do this than just laying into it withdifferent grits of sandpaper. How about some ideas from guys on how theybest turn there cork whether grips or reelseats.Bret _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from OSEGAL@glcc.com Fri Aug 3 13:15:12 2001 f73IFAZ00407 with Novell_GroupWise; Fri, 03 Aug 2001 14:16:42 -0400 Subject: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS f73IFBZ00410 Dear Rodmakers, I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer handson classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer meadvise on this matter? Your ehlp will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Oscar A. Segal from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Aug 3 13:41:07 2001 f73If6Z01685 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 11:34:08 -0700 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Oscar, Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommend someone not toofar from your locale. Harry Boyd Oscar Segal wrote: Dear Rodmakers, I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offerhands on classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer meadvise on this matter? Your ehlp will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Oscar A. Segal --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from OSEGAL@glcc.com Fri Aug 3 14:29:01 2001 f73JT1Z03891 with Novell_GroupWise; Fri, 03 Aug 2001 15:30:36 -0400 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under assignment by =the corporation I work for. I am a hobbyist rod builder and would like to =develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend some =quality time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. Obviously =it would have to be in the States in 2002. Regards, Oscar Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommend someone not too far= I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer =hands on classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer me= Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under assignment= develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend some = time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. Obviously it would = to be in the States in 2002. Regards, = Perhaps = we can recommend someone not too far from your locale. Harry = very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer hands = classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer me advise = Sincerely,= unto = go a fishing..." -- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/-- = -- http://www.fbcwin.com/= Church — from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Fri Aug 3 14:47:00 2001 f73JkxZ04714 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:40:10 -0700 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS --------------A42D7545C331273D0419C3D0 Oscar, In Michigan, Wayne Cattanach offers classes that severalpeople on this list have taken. Ron Barch and John Longoffer classes as well. Chris Bogart offers classes inVirginia. Seems like there are others from this list thatoffer classes as well. C'mon list, help Oscar out here!! Harry Oscar Segal wrote: Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I ama US citizen I am located in Argentina under assignment bythe corporation I work for. I am a hobbyist rod builderand would like to develop further my very basic skills, soI thought I might spend some quality time taking rodbuilding lessons next spring or summer. Obviously it wouldhave to be in the States in 2002. Regards, Oscar Harry Boyd 08/03/01 03:37PM >>>Hi Oscar, Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommendsomeone not too far from your locale. Harry Boyd Oscar Segal wrote: Dear Rodmakers, I am very interested in finding out regarding torodmakers that offer hands on classes/lessons on bamboorod building/making. Could you offer me advise on thismatter? Your ehlp will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Oscar A. Segal --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church _ --Harry Boyd "Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."http://www.canerods.com/ Bamboo Rodshttp://www.fbcwin.com/ Our Church --------------A42D7545C331273D0419C3D0 Oscar, like there are others from this list that offer classes as well. Oscar Segal wrote: you Argentina under assignment by the corporation I work for. I am a hobbyistrod builder and would like to develop further my very basic skills, soI thought I might spend some quality time taking rod building lessons nextspring or summer. Obviously it would have to be in the States in Harry Boyd <fbcwin@3g.quik.com> 08/03/01 03:37PM >>>Hi Oscar,Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommend someone not toofar from your locale.Harry BoydOscar Segal wrote:Dear Rodmakers, I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offerhands on classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offerme advise on this matter? Your ehlp will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Oscar A. Segal--"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd - -http://www.canerods.com/-- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/-- Our Church _ --Harry Boyd"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..." --------------A42D7545C331273D0419C3D0-- from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Fri Aug 3 14:58:47 2001 f73JwWZ05393 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS f73JwlZ05398 Try Lon Blauvelt in falmouth Maine. He has a linkon the rodmakers site.----- Original Message----- Subject: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Dear Rodmakers, I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer handson classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer meadvise on this matter? Your ehlp will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Oscar A. Segal from bcombest@iclub.org Fri Aug 3 15:51:40 2001 f73KpdZ07476 ; Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:38:35 -0400 Subject: Heat treat oven This is a multi-part message in MIME format. HEY LISTI am in the mist of making an oven, using Wayne C's design in "the =book." I cannot find the "compressed fiberglass ductboard, foil =backed." all that I can find is only rated to 220 degrees. Give me a =hint on what exactly and what direction to go.Getting all this stuff together reminds me of some diabolical scavenger =hunt.Bruce Combest HEY LISTI am in the mist of making an oven, = foil backed." all that I can find is only rated to 220 degrees. Give me = on what exactly and what direction to go.Getting all this stuff together reminds= diabolical scavenger hunt.Bruce Combest anglport@con2.com Fri Aug 3 16:21:43 2001 f73LLgZ08737 Subject: Pettepher's virus!!! All,My Norton tells me Mr. Pettepher's Magistr virus is at it again. Don'topen his attachment!Art----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Heat guns, part 2 Just to add my own experience or luck with a heat gun oven to the mix- theoven I built has virtually no temperature gradient from one end to theother(as measured by a thermometer attached to a coat hanger that I run invarious distances, close the oven and let it equilibrate and then whip outthe thermometer to get a reading- talk about Franken engineering! Itsprettyclose, though, I'll bet). The complete design is on the Rodmakers webpage.It is a horizontal design and has some baffles to create mixing andturbulence as you are describing below with another approach. I used apieceof welders iron (right term?) to span the middle of the inner tube to makeashelf. This may modulate the heat some because its mass will act as aheatsink. I don't know if this is good or not but it is flat and straight andthat is what I was shooting for with the shelf to lay the sections on. Iusethe Sears 2 speed adjustable heat gun. I run it on the high airflowsettingand is about at 1/2 power or less to get the right temperatures. Thisdoesn't seem like a lot of strain for the gun so I don't expect to burn itout (haven't yet) but I also don't make mass numbers of rods. The biggestdrawback I have found with my oven is it is fairly bulky but I put rollercasters on the bottom so it is easy to move around and the outer box issturdy enough to stack things on so I don't lose much in the way of shopspace. I think the key to a heat gun oven is the two tubes and goodinsulation around the outer tube. Otherwise there is a lot of heat losswhich will create temperature gradients and put a lot of strain on yourgun.That's my story and I'm sticking to it!Cheers.Jon McAnulty ----- Original Message -----From: "Jason Swan" Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 10:35 AMSubject: Heat guns, part 2 Hi all, Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. I only wish theresponseswent to the whole list. from the responses I had, the only real drawback to the heat gun ovenistheinconsistent temps from the proximal to the distal end of the heatchamber.While some people haven't had a problem with that, some have. This hasalsobeen a problem with element ovens as well. But instead of lower tempsatthe top, or end in the case of horizontal ovens, the temps are lower attheextremities of the strips (the farther out you go the cooler it gets)resulting in more cooking in the middle, and in some cases, unevencolor. The key seems to be in air flow. The most successful, and consistent,ovenshave a high degree of air flow. Is that right? So, direct, or radiantheatovens need a good fan and air gun ovens need a gun with a high cfs rate. So, it looks like I will be making a heat gun oven because it willprobablybe better than a cheap radiant heat oven (what I can afford at themoment,at least). What I am wondering, for you oven gurus out there, is whatwouldhappen if I put a small vent at the top of the interior heating chamber,several inches below the exhaust opening at the top? My thinking isthatitwould allow some of the heat that doesn't go up the heat chamber to exitthemain chamber and add more heat at the top of the heat chamber. Willthiswork? Does it make sense? Would it mess up the convection action byallowing an additional place for the heat in the heating chamber toescape? Also, would the heat be more consistent in the heating chamber if asmall(3") turbine was added at the bottom? This would create a sort oftwistereffect in the chamber (hey, if it works in vacuum cleaners, why notovens?).Would the movement of the air allow for a more homogenous temp.throughout? Anyway, thanks again for all the help. For those of you wishing torespondto my question, share your insight with the rest of the group. I knowthatthe responses that I received from my last question were more thanappropriate for the list, and I'm sure there are several people atleast,besides myself, who could benefit from this discussion. Besides, itseemslike the virus/computer/Outlook Express issue is getting old. Jason from rmoon@ida.net Fri Aug 3 17:00:20 2001 f73M0JZ10189 Subject: virus I see that our friend Richard P is back trying to find someone not onhis toes. Ralph from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Fri Aug 3 17:31:08 2001 f73MV8Z10919 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:30:43 -0400 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Oscar, Among the other names you have received, Jeff Wagner offers classes and =he is near Cleveland Ohio. You can also find a link to his website on =the rodmakers website. Tim Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 3:20 PMSubject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under assignment = like to develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend =some quality time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. =Obviously it would have to be in the States in 2002. Regards, Oscar Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommend someone not too = I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that =offer hands on classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you = Oscar, Among the other names you have = link to his website on the rodmakers website. Tim ----- Original Message ----- Oscar =Segal Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu = Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 = PMSubject: Re: BAMBOO ROD = CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under = develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend some = time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. Obviously it = have to be in the States in 2002. Regards, = we can recommend someone not too far from your locale. Harry= very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer hands = classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer me = unto them, I go a fishing..." -- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/-- = -- Our Church — from irish-george@chartermi.net Fri Aug 3 19:08:25 2001 [24.213.60.123] (may be forged)) f7408OZ12427 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig Oops. Right you are. That should be:http://www.blueridgemachinery.comand the company is Blue Ridge Machinery.That'll teach me to rely on memory! ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig George,Thanks for a great post, but I can't get the second link towork....Mindchecking it one time?? Harry irish-george wrote: Shawn, catalogs. The sites are:http://www.campbelltools.comhttp://www.bluemountainmachinery.com Campbell Tools sells a lot of stuff for model makers (small lathes,mills,materials, etc) and Blue Mountain Machinery sell machinery and parts formetalworking hobbyists (i.e., stuff for around 9-10" lathes). BlueMountaincurrently has the distribution and manufacture rights for what used tobethe non-CNC portion of the Emco-Maier (Austrian) brand of lathe thatmadethe later Unimats and Maximats. One other brand you may wish toinvestigateis Sakai...they have been advertising on the back cover of Home ShopMachinist magazine (out of Traverse City, Michigan). For getting a nicefinish on metal, you'll want to have a "power longitudinal feed" onwhateverlathe you get...if you want to turn anything while mounted to the blank,you'll want to compare the spindle hole size to the diameter of your rodblanks. Good luck,George----- Original Message -----From: "Shawn Pineo" Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 11:45 AMSubject: Re:Unimat metal lathes now Sherline vs Taig OK, bea great choice.My question now is which lathe the Taig or Sherline would be a betterchoice? Which onecomes with the most accessories to accomplish what I want todo(ferrules,reelseats/inserts tube caps, and winding checks??Which lathes accessories are less expensive. Any idea onavailability ofparts/accessories here in Canada?? Sorry for the bandwidth, but I amratherinexperienced in this field and got burned with my Jet wood lathe.Is there someone who has a site of directions to build thingslikereel seats,ferrules and such??Shawn --"Simon Peter saith unto them, I go a fishing..."-- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods --http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from irish-george@chartermi.net Fri Aug 3 19:23:16 2001 [24.213.60.123] (may be forged)) f740NFZ12758 Subject: Re: lathes This is a multi-part message in MIME format. If I am the George this is directed to (???):I don't think you NEED that large of a lathe for rodmaking. If all you =want to do is to turn ferrules (not on rod), you could probably do that =with about a 3" lathe...a few things DO eat away at the "swing over the =bed" spec and those things are the compound (the part the toolholder is =mounted on that, hopefully, is power driven longitudinally along the =lathe) and the toolholder. If you want to turn any grips or reelseat =inserts or make reelseats, you are probably up to a 5-6" (minimum) =lathe. To get a reasonable-size bore through the spindle, you probably =have to go to about a 7" lathe (like some of the Maximats). If I lived =in an apartment, I'd probably have about a 7" Maximat. That being said, =there are quite a few choices out there when you go to about 9- 10"...Jet =has a decent 9" with 20" center to center that goes on sale regularly = a South Bend, Logan, Myford, Standard Modern (Canadian made), or Boxford=(British copy of the South Bend). If you are concerned about getting =parts for an older lathe, I can say from experience that it can be =easier to find a part for a 50 year old South Bend than for most new =Asian lathes (but that doesn't mean the part will be cheap!). Good luck! Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 5:11 AMSubject: re: lathes george,i have been looking for a lathe for almost a year now and i am =holding back , mainly , because i've read that you need a 10" swing over =the bed ( or center, i'm not sure which). most lathes i've looked at =either don't list the swing over bed, or they have a swing less than =10", or i can't afford it if they do. i know nothing about lathes, but = or am i ..........mike c. If I am the George this is directed (???):I don't think you NEED that large of a = could probably do that with about a 3" lathe...a few things DO eat away = "swing over the bed" spec and those things are the compound (the part = toolholder is mounted on that, hopefully, is power driven longitudinally = inserts or make reelseats, you are probably up to a 5-6" (minimum) = To get a reasonable-size bore through the spindle, you probably have to = few choices out there when you go to about 9-10"...Jet has a decent 9" = center to center that goes on sale regularly for about $1000 and is = when not on sale...or you can pick up a South Bend, Logan, Myford, = Modern (Canadian made), or Boxford (British copy of the South = you are concerned about getting parts for an older lathe, I can say from = experience that it can be easier to find a part for a 50 year old South = cheap!). Good luck! ----- Original Message ----- canazon Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 = AMSubject: re: lathes george, looking = lathe for almost a year now and i am holding back , mainly , because = that you need a 10" swing over the bed ( or center, i'm not sure = lathes i've looked at either don't list the swing over bed, or they = about lathes, but maybe you can tell me if i need a 10" swing = search of the holy grail = from fquinchat@locl.net Fri Aug 3 19:32:55 2001Received: from f740WsZ13051 Subject: Agate Does anyone know where to get agate, predrilled, for making my ownstrippers, stripper guides that is? Dennis Bertram from irish-george@chartermi.net Fri Aug 3 19:41:15 2001 [24.213.60.123] (may be forged)) f740fAZ13352 Subject: It doesn't help... Was: Attachments sent to the list It doesn't help that there exists a software development environment called"Virus Development Lab" complete with libraries to assist urban terroristsin accelerating the development of newer and better (???) viruses. You justhave to buy, use, and frequently update one of the better anti- virussoftware packages out there (like Norton or McAfee) and BE CAREFUL. George ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Attachments sent to the list You wrote: I really don't care whose prog I use. I just want to use my PC with areasonable degree of security without the need to baracde my computertothe point the associated software is more important than what I wantmyPC order to do it and be just as confident every other person buying a newPCto get on the net is equally protected.Rather than praise MS and make allowances for it as you would for asmallcompany just out Bill should be whiped naked through the streets forcontinuing to fail to address these problems.Personally watching 10-15 infected messages download almost everytime Ilog on and check email has stoped being as much fun as it used to be. Tony, I certainly appreciate your frustration. I've spent the last week ontemporary assignment cleaning, updating, and even rebuilding, computersystems for my company that have been affected by this latest round ofbugs.Unfortunately, you can't count on software companies, vendors or anyoneelseto protect you from the internet. It's a process you have to take anactivepart in because it's only going to get worse. The people who write viruses targeted at you, me, and the rest of thegeneral public, are thrillseekers who are simply trying to wreak havoc andgenerate publicity. They go after the big targets, and Microsoft justhappens to be the biggest. If, for some reason, the big target were tochange tomorrow, your Windows system would start looking pretty darnsecure. I work with a great number of people (fortunately, honest people), who arecapable of writing code that could be far more damaging than the viruseswesee day to day. I guarantee you that there isn't a system out there that'snot vulnerable. To your problem though... In case you're still having trouble shutting down scripting on yoursystem,I thought I'd provide a little help. If you've got the problem worked out,you can ignore the rest of this message. This has already been sent out,butI've embellished the directions a little to, hopefully, make thingsclearer. First - Open your control panel. You should see an icon that's labeled"Internet Options". If you don't, then I don't think you'll be able todisable scripts from running automatically. If it's there, open it. Next - click on the "Security" tab, then click on the "Restricted Sites"icon. Make sure the "Security Level for this zone" box is set to "High",then click on the "Custom Level" button. If you scroll down near the bottom of the "Settings" box, you'll see asection entitled "Scripting". Make sure that each option in this scriptingsection is set to "Disable". If you've downloaded all of the currentpatches, they're probably already checked that way (I suppose Microsoftmayhave removed that section entirely to keep people from accidentallyturningthem back on, but they're still listed in my settings). Before VB scriptviruses became the rage (and prior to the patches), these setting were setto enable and prompt. The patch changes these to disable, but doublecheckto make sure that everything is set to "DISABLE". Click OK until the "Internet Options" program is closed. You're notfinishedyet! - Open Outlook Express. Click the "Tools" menu and select "Options". Click the "Security" tab. On this tab, there should be a section that's labeled "Select the InternetExplorer security zone to use". Make sure that the option selected is"Restricted sites zone". Click OK to close. You probably don't need to re-boot, but it never hurts to do that aftermaking important changes, and I'd suggest you go ahead and reboot. Voila! Outlook Express will no longer run scripts automatically. This willprotect you from the viruses that were being activated without everopeningthe message that contained it. Again though, this really won't help youwiththe recent SirCam. Best of luck to you! ---Tim from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Aug 3 20:22:00 2001 f741LxZ14029 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: BFRM????? Is any one out there in direct contact with Mark Metcalf of BFRM??? I have about 50 e-mails and my phone calls go unanswered now (I think he knowshow to filtermy e mail address now as well as my phone calls;^) ) and I would REALLYlike totalk with him. Shawn from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Fri Aug 3 20:23:03 2001 f741N2Z14047 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: BFRM????? Is any one out there in direct contact with Mark Metcalf of BFRM??? I have about 50 e-mails and my phone calls go unanswered now (I think he knowshow to filtermy e mail address now as well as my phone calls;^) ) and I would REALLYlike totalk with him again about my subscription refund(or lack thereof). Shawn from martinj@aa.net Sat Aug 4 00:07:47 2001 f7457jZ16165 Fri, 3 Aug 2001 22:07:42 -0700 Subject: RE: virus Organization: "wish I had some" Is Richard a member of this group? I have never seen his name on thelist prior to his sending us virus's. His post didn't look like it wasrelated to the rodbuilding group so I filtered his email to go directlyto the trash. I am not getting the virus's that he is sending, and if heis a member I would probably unblock him. I'm sure that sooner or laterhe will figure this virus thing out and get his computer cleaned up... -----Original Message----- Subject: virus I see that our friend Richard P is back trying to find someone not onhis toes. Ralph from drinkr@voicenet.com Sat Aug 4 08:20:35 2001 f74DKYZ19371 (207.103.134.46) Subject: Catskill Gathering Inquiry I've been away for the past 5 weeks and am probably too late . Is theCatskill gathering filled for this year? from rmoon@ida.net Sat Aug 4 08:40:20 2001 f74DeJZ19797 Subject: Re: virus Martin I have never seen the name before his recent postings. Someone on thelist ran a check and he does not seem to be a member, yet he istargeting the list. His return address had the word "flyfishing" in it,so he might possibly have some peripheral connection. I have blockedthe name to be deleted. I don't want to see it any more. Ralph from mtnvalleyflies@mtnvalleyflies.com Sat Aug 4 09:51:00 2001 f74EoxZ21023 Subject: Re: virus f74EoxZ21024 Maybe he is an executive for a big graphite rod company and sees anyresurgence of cane as a threat?????? ;-) John K-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: virus Martin I have never seen the name before his recent postings. Someone on thelist ran a check and he does not seem to be a member, yet he istargeting the list. His return address had the word "flyfishing" in it,so he might possibly have some peripheral connection. I have blockedthe name to be deleted. I don't want to see it any more. Ralph from bob@downandacross.com Sat Aug 4 11:02:32 2001 f74G2VZ21929 Aug 2001 12:02:57 -0400 Subject: Subscriptions, etc... Dear Rodmakers:Shawn's post earlier reminded me of something I have been meaning to do for a while.In the past, I have been notifying people of new Power Fibers issues, etc... through the list. As the list is not the proper place to do so (I apologize), I would kindly ask that if you would like to be notified of changes or issues coming out, please go to http://powerfibers.com and sign up for the notification list on the "downloads" page.The list will not be notified by me in the future, you will need to sign up personally. I hope this e-mail has not offended anyone. I have only received positive notes from listmembers, and I would like to continue to bring this free service to you all.Thanks for your support,Bob from martinj@aa.net Sat Aug 4 11:11:28 2001 f74GBQZ22172 Sat, 4 Aug 2001 09:11:25 -0700 Subject: RE: virus That's pretty funny! I think I will leave the name blocked for now. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: virus Maybe he is an executive for a big graphite rod company and sees anyresurgence of cane as a threat?????? ;-) John K-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: virus Martin I have never seen the name before his recent postings. Someone on thelist ran a check and he does not seem to be a member, yet he istargeting the list. His return address had the word "flyfishing" init,so he might possibly have some peripheral connection. I have blockedthe name to be deleted. I don't want to see it any more. Ralph from dickay@alltel.net Sat Aug 4 12:25:19 2001 f74HPIZ23179 Sat, 4 Aug 2001 12:25:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat treat oven This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Bruce, Have you tried an Heating & Air Conditioning Supply House or =Contractor? They call it "Duct Board" and it comes in 4' X 10' sheets =1" thick. It is very stiff but can be cut with a sharp pocket knife. =Don't worry about the temp. rating as you will probably burn some of the =binder out of it the first time you use it. You'll know by the odor. =Just be sure that you have two layers of metal, one on each side of the =insulation. Hope this helps.Dick Fuhrman Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 3:51 PMSubject: Heat treat oven HEY LISTI am in the mist of making an oven, using Wayne C's design in "the =book." I cannot find the "compressed fiberglass ductboard, foil =backed." all that I can find is only rated to 220 degrees. Give me a =hint on what exactly and what direction to go.Getting all this stuff together reminds me of some diabolical =scavenger hunt.Bruce Combest Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Bruce= Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 = PMSubject: Heat treat oven HEY LISTI am in the mist of making an oven, = ductboard, foil backed." all that I can find is only rated to 220 = Give me a hint on what exactly and what direction to go.Getting all this stuff together = some diabolical scavenger hunt.Bruce Combest from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sat Aug 4 13:11:00 2001 f74IAxZ23925 2001 11:11:00 PDT Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... bob, isn't this the appropriate place to notify us allof the up coming issue? i think this is the perfectplace. timothy --- Bob Maulucci wrote:Dear Rodmakers:Shawn's post earlier reminded me of something I havebeen meaning to do for a while.In the past, I have been notifying people of newPower Fibers issues, etc... through the list. As the list is not theproper place to do so (I apologize), I would kindly ask that if you wouldlike to be notified of changes or issues coming out, please go tohttp://powerfibers.com and sign up for the notification list on the "downloads"page.The list will not be notified by me in the future,you will need to sign up personally. I hope this e-mail has not offendedanyone. I have only received positive notes from listmembers, and Iwould like to continue to bring this free service to you all.Thanks for your support,Bob ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from bob@downandacross.com Sat Aug 4 13:50:57 2001 f74IouZ24487 Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... Hi Tim:I appreciate the note. I do get some advertising $ for this, and that is a commercial interest. I also, do not want to get into the "Hey buddy, could you post this for me" activities that I have seen.Obviously, without the list, I would not even have finished my first rod. This is not to separate the mag from the list, it is an attempt to accept its guidelines for fair use.Okay, while you got me here, I will mention we will be doing video starting with October. (Now I am one).Thanks,Bob At 11:11 AM 8/4/2001 -0700, you wrote:bob, isn't this the appropriate place to notify us allof the up coming issue? i think this is the perfectplace. timothy from Mark_Dyba@hotmail.com Sat Aug 4 15:13:10 2001 f74KDAZ25603 Sat, 4 Aug 2001 13:13:06 -0700 Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... FILETIME=[DF94ED10:01C11D21] Hi all,Can anyone tell me the dates of the FFF conclave in Livingston Mt?Also will there be a bamboo rod presentation? Mark----- Original Message ----- Subject: Subscriptions, etc... Dear Rodmakers:Shawn's post earlier reminded me of something I have been meaning to dofora while.In the past, I have been notifying people of new Power Fibers issues,etc... through the list. As the list is not the proper place to do so (Iapologize), I would kindly ask that if you would like to be notified ofchanges or issues coming out, please go to http://powerfibers.com andsignup for the notification list on the "downloads" page.The list will not be notified by me in the future, you will need to signuppersonally. I hope this e- mail has not offended anyone. I have onlyreceived positive notes from listmembers, and I would like to continue tobring this free service to you all.Thanks for your support,Bob from bob@downandacross.com Sat Aug 4 15:28:10 2001 f74KS9Z26015 Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... --=====================_3925052==_.ALT HI Mark:Try Ralph Moon. I believe he posted some information to the list regarding this. I cannot seem to find it. rmoon@ida.netBest regards,Bob At 03:07 PM 8/4/2001 -0700, Mark Dyba wrote:Hi all,Can anyone tell me the dates of the FFF conclave in Livingston Mt?Also will there be a bamboo rod presentation? Mark Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com(716) 836- 8297http://www.powerfibers.com the magazinehttp://www.downandacross.com the rodshttp://www.nancyscandy.com the bandhttp://www.buffalozooschool.com the "real job" --=====================_3925052==_.ALT HI Mark:Try Ralph Moon. I believe he posted some information to the listregarding this. I cannot seem to find it. rmoon@ida.netBest regards,BobAt 03:07 PM 8/4/2001 -0700, Mark Dyba wrote:Hi all,Can anyone tell me the dates of the FFF conclave in Livingston Mt?Also will there be a bamboo rod presentation?Mark Bob Mauluccibob@downandacross.com(716) 836- 8297http://www.pow=erfibers.comthe magazinehttp://www.d=ownandacross.comthe rodshttp://www.nan=cyscandy.comthe bandhttp://ww=w.buffalozooschool.comthe "real job" --=====================_3925052==_.ALT-- from rkrees@mcn.net Sat Aug 4 18:17:29 2001 f74NHTZ27935 Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. It is going on right now I belive and tomorrow is the last day. There is =no bamboo booth but that I know of but a few of the boys are there.Ron It is going on right now I belive and tomorrow is = day. There is no bamboo booth but that I know of but a few of the boys = there.Ron from rmoon@ida.net Sat Aug 4 18:32:46 2001 f74NWjZ28164 Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... MarkThe conclave begins on Wednesday of next week. While there will not bea bamboo presentation, there will be a roundtable with lots to read,rodsto cast,rodmaking videos, and lots of good old boy rodmakers. It is inbooth 47. Bob Nunlet will have his bamboo ferrule, and my 7'6" spiralwill be available. Ralph from dnorl@qwest.net Sat Aug 4 22:11:28 2001 f753BSZ00760 (63.228.45.37) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... I agree but I signed up anyway. I wouldn't want to miss a single issue. Bobyou are the tops.Dave Norling-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Subscriptions, etc... bob, isn't this the appropriate place to notify us allof the up coming issue? i think this is the perfectplace. timothy --- Bob Maulucci wrote:Dear Rodmakers:Shawn's post earlier reminded me of something I havebeen meaning to do fora while.In the past, I have been notifying people of newPower Fibers issues,etc... through the list. As the list is not theproper place to do so (Iapologize), I would kindly ask that if you wouldlike to be notified ofchanges or issues coming out, please go tohttp://powerfibers.com and signup for the notification list on the "downloads"page.The list will not be notified by me in the future,you will need to sign uppersonally. I hope this e-mail has not offendedanyone. I have onlyreceived positive notes from listmembers, and Iwould like to continue tobring this free service to you all.Thanks for your support,Bob ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from paul.blakley@ntlworld.com Sun Aug 5 02:17:02 2001 f757H1Z03541 +0100 Subject: Corks......and Wine All,If you have a look at www.corkwatch.com under the FAQ section you willfind lots of interesting information on cork.Just an observation I thought some of you may find ratherinteresting........tight lines......Paul from b2g@jps.net Sun Aug 5 03:56:44 2001 f758uhZ04347 BAA22236 Subject: Bitter Sweet Well the last couple of days has been fill with many hours of rod building.After I have spent the last year gathering the tools needed to venture inthe craft of building cane fly rods, also during that time working on myfirst rod here and there when time permitted. Now in the past 24 hours Ihave just hit the bottom of disappointment. Last night I finished gluing onthe ferrules of the rod I am building, yea I see the light at the end of thetunnel it is starting to look like a rod now. Well this morning I went intothe shop and checked the glue on the ferrules. The female ferrule's gluehad cured and then with is slight tug on the male ferrule, pop, off come themale ferrule. All is not lost I will clean everything up and re-glue it on.So out comes the epoxy and re-gluing the ferrule commenced. Rememberhow Isaid that I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Well boy oh boy thatwasn't no light for the end of the tunnel. Pow! The freight train hit mein one quick snap while I was putting small amount of pressure on the rodtip section to push out the air pockets in the glue. So with my twodaughters standing their all I could do is say something under my breathquietly and stand their bewildered. Like the deer in the head light lookwhile my heart sank. After a few hours of utter disappointment, I picked up where I left off.Well the rod section snapped several inches from the bottom of the sectionso it isn't a throw away section yet. I'll hang onto it for a six foot rodor something like that. Now I had to pick myself up and go on, so luckilywhen building this rod I created a second tip and I could go on with theproject. So this entire day was filled working on the second tip for thisrod. The second rod tip section wasn't pulled out of the glue bindingstring yet, because a week ago I decided not to finish this tip right now sothat I could complete this rod for an upcoming fishing trip I am going on.Well I am now happy to say that at 2:00 am in the morning I finally turnedoff the lights in the shop with the second rod tip finished sanded and theferrule glued on. As well as I finished mounting the cork rod handle on thebutt section of the rod. Now I can relax for the day while things dry, Ideserve it after this disappointing morning I have had. Sorry about the long story but I needed to let it out to my fellowrodmakers. Thanks for the lending ear. Robert H. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Aug 5 07:03:59 2001 f75C3wZ05599 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 Sun, 5 Aug 2001 09:00:24 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Bitter Sweet Hang in there Robert,Someday you'll look back on these past few das andrealize it was all worth it. Trust me on this.Years from now you'll be turning out beautiful works of art and you knowwhat.... you will still learn more with each rod. Best of luck! Shawn Robert Holder wrote: Well the last couple of days has been fill with many hours of rod building.After I have spent the last year gathering the tools needed to venture inthe craft of building cane fly rods, also during that time working on myfirst rod here and there when time permitted. Now in the past 24 hours Ihave just hit the bottom of disappointment. Last night I finished gluing onthe ferrules of the rod I am building, yea I see the light at the end of thetunnel it is starting to look like a rod now. Well this morning I went intothe shop and checked the glue on the ferrules. The female ferrule's gluehad cured and then with is slight tug on the male ferrule, pop, off come themale ferrule. All is not lost I will clean everything up and re-glue it on.So out comes the epoxy and re-gluing the ferrule commenced. Rememberhow Isaid that I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Well boy oh boy thatwasn't no light for the end of the tunnel. Pow! The freight train hit mein one quick snap while I was putting small amount of pressure on the rodtip section to push out the air pockets in the glue. So with my twodaughters standing their all I could do is say something under my breathquietly and stand their bewildered. Like the deer in the head light lookwhile my heart sank. After a few hours of utter disappointment, I picked up where I left off.Well the rod section snapped several inches from the bottom of thesectionso it isn't a throw away section yet. I'll hang onto it for a six foot rodor something like that. Now I had to pick myself up and go on, so luckilywhen building this rod I created a second tip and I could go on with theproject. So this entire day was filled working on the second tip for thisrod. The second rod tip section wasn't pulled out of the glue bindingstring yet, because a week ago I decided not to finish this tip right now sothat I could complete this rod for an upcoming fishing trip I am going on.Well I am now happy to say that at 2:00 am in the morning I finally turnedoff the lights in the shop with the second rod tip finished sanded and theferrule glued on. As well as I finished mounting the cork rod handle on thebutt section of the rod. Now I can relax for the day while things dry, Ideserve it after this disappointing morning I have had. Sorry about the long story but I needed to let it out to my fellowrodmakers. Thanks for the lending ear. Robert H. from flytyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 5 07:33:38 2001 f75CXcZ06112 f75CXYK13434;Sun, 5 Aug 2001 07:33:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Bitter Sweet Bob,You can show me that finished rod when I see you in a few weeks. I bet youwillhave a big smile on your face.I hope to finish the travel rod to take with me now that the cast is off myhand.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Robert Holder wrote: Well the last couple of days has been fill with many hours of rod building.After I have spent the last year gathering the tools needed to venture inthe craft of building cane fly rods, also during that time working on myfirst rod here and there when time permitted. Now in the past 24 hours Ihave just hit the bottom of disappointment. Last night I finished gluing onthe ferrules of the rod I am building, yea I see the light at the end of thetunnel it is starting to look like a rod now. Well this morning I went intothe shop and checked the glue on the ferrules. The female ferrule's gluehad cured and then with is slight tug on the male ferrule, pop, off come themale ferrule. All is not lost I will clean everything up and re-glue it on.So out comes the epoxy and re-gluing the ferrule commenced. Rememberhow Isaid that I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Well boy oh boy thatwasn't no light for the end of the tunnel. Pow! The freight train hit mein one quick snap while I was putting small amount of pressure on the rodtip section to push out the air pockets in the glue. So with my twodaughters standing their all I could do is say something under my breathquietly and stand their bewildered. Like the deer in the head light lookwhile my heart sank. After a few hours of utter disappointment, I picked up where I left off.Well the rod section snapped several inches from the bottom of thesectionso it isn't a throw away section yet. I'll hang onto it for a six foot rodor something like that. Now I had to pick myself up and go on, so luckilywhen building this rod I created a second tip and I could go on with theproject. So this entire day was filled working on the second tip for thisrod. The second rod tip section wasn't pulled out of the glue bindingstring yet, because a week ago I decided not to finish this tip right now sothat I could complete this rod for an upcoming fishing trip I am going on.Well I am now happy to say that at 2:00 am in the morning I finally turnedoff the lights in the shop with the second rod tip finished sanded and theferrule glued on. As well as I finished mounting the cork rod handle on thebutt section of the rod. Now I can relax for the day while things dry, Ideserve it after this disappointing morning I have had. Sorry about the long story but I needed to let it out to my fellowrodmakers. Thanks for the lending ear. Robert H. from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Aug 5 09:42:16 2001 f75EgFZ07879 Subject: Re: Corks......and Wine I was listening to the BBC news and current affairs program the other nightand they had a 15 min segment on cork. It seems the reduction of demandforcork is already beginning to affect the cork growers. Because you don'tkill the cork trees (Cork Oak??) to get the cork it's a very sustainableproduct but the land the trees grow on needs to be utilized or somethingelse will be done with it. Obviously this was all from cork growers andsellers but it makes you wonder. Tony At 08:15 AM 8/5/01 +0100, paul.blakley wrote:All,If you have a look at www.corkwatch.com under the FAQ section you willfind lots of interesting information on cork.Just an observation I thought some of you may find ratherinteresting........tight lines......Paul /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from b2g@jps.net Sun Aug 5 11:16:38 2001 f75GGbZ08765 JAA24419 Subject: Coloring The Fly Rod Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from bob@downandacross.com Sun Aug 5 12:01:24 2001 f75H1NZ09487 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Although I have yet to try it, everyone I know who has had success has tried Pantone markers. I know from personal experiments that traditional stains (like the Min Wax stuff) do not work. Good luck, and when I get a chance to try the Pantones, I will report back to the list.Bob At 10:19 AM 8/2/2001 -0600, Robert Holder wrote:Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from EESweet@aol.com Sun Aug 5 13:07:36 2001 f75I7ZZ10564 Subject: Off Topic - Need metalworking advice Hi All, Please forgive the non-rodmaking post and feel free to delete. I recently purchased an inflatable kayak for fun and fishing, and after taking it out for the first time yesterday have identified some enhancements I'd like to make. It's a pontoon design that uses two solid aluminum braces fore and aft to maintain space for seating in the center. Unfortunately, even with just my girlfriend and me aboard (about 250 lbs), the middle 6 - 7 feet has a pronounced U shape, showing that the pontoons are flexing inward about 2" apiece. I can't imagine what it might be like with my fishing buddy (another 125 lbs.). I'd like to either add a third brace in the middle or make raised seat platforms/braces to correct this. My thought was to use copper or aluminum tubing bent in the shape of the braces ( shaped like )__( ), but I have NO idea how easy/difficult it might be to bend tubing, or the equipment needed to do it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! it incredibly stable, and with the rear skegs, tracks pretty well while paddling. Not as fast as a hard shell, but better than most of the inflatable floor type kayaks. Got a discount by buying a reconditioned one. I expect it will make a great fishing platform (I'll find out next weekend). As usual, I've no financial connection or interest in the company, just sharing some possibly usefull info... As this is off topic, please respond off list. Thanks in advance, Eric Hi All, after taking it out for the first time yesterday have identified someenhancements aluminum braces fore and aft to maintain space for seating in the center. even with just my girlfriend and me aboard (about 250 lbs), the middle 6- 7 feet has a pronounced U shape, showing that the pontoons are flexinginward fishing buddy middle or was to use copper or aluminum tubing bent in the shape of the braces ( might be to bend tubing, appreciated! pontoon design it incredibly stable, and with the rear skegs, tracks pretty well while I expect it will make a great fishing platform (I'll find out next weekend). As usual, I've no financial connection or interest in the company, just sharing some possibly usefull info... As this is off topic, please respond off list. Thanks in advance, Eric from rsgould@cmc.net Sun Aug 5 13:15:19 2001 f75IFJZ10863 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Hi to all,A flaming response.It's too much work to build a rod and then color it some outlandish color.As far as I'm concerned it's either natural, brown toned or flamed.Ray----- Original Message ----- Subject: Coloring The Fly Rod Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach'svideohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from nsflyrods@ns.sympatico.ca Sun Aug 5 14:19:40 2001 f75JJeZ11640 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 Sun, 5 Aug 2001 16:15:24 -0300 Organization: New Scotland Fly Rods Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Robert,I'm not 100% sure but I believe Wayne meant purple wraps for hisdaughters rod.Shawn Robert Holder wrote: Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Aug 5 14:34:19 2001 f75JYIZ12037 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod He said when he colored it purple that he used permanganate which is some stuff you put in a water softener to keep the rust out. He said when he colored it purple that he used permanganate which issome stuff you put in a water softener to keep the rustout. from rjwlawed@msn.com Sun Aug 5 15:00:23 2001 f75K0MZ12484 Sun, 5 Aug 2001 13:00:17 -0700 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod FILETIME=[3FA1D340:01C11DE9] being new to bamboo i've haven't ever done this to cane, but having 20=+years experience in cabinet making i've colored some hardwoods with aut=omotive laquer and it works just like a stain when thinned . go to a auto=paint shop(i usually go to napa) and get a color you like in acrylic laq=uer base (like they use on base coat/clear coat finishes) and thinn it do=wn to a water consistancy. it will wipe on like regular oil base stain an=d leave the grain show like there is nothing on it at all. it is best to =get the reducer for the color from the same supplier and get the slowest =reducer they have,you can even get retarderif you need it. you have to wo=rk kind of fast to cover the entire surface at one time or overlaps on dr=y stain will produce a darker color, but that shouldn't be hard with a ro=d. put some stain on a rag , wrap it around the rod section and pull the =rod through.it dries in 15 min. or so and can be varnished with whatever =you want to use. i've done cabinets in green, red, black,blue,yellow and =white for a child's play room like this and they all worked fine.ron ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Coloring The Fly Rod Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's vi=deohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. hi bob,= hen thinned . go to a auto paint shop(i usually go to napa) and get a col=or you like in acrylic laquer base (like they use on base coat/clear coat=finishes) and thinn it down to a water consistancy. it will wipe on like=regular oil base stain and leave the grain show like there is nothing on=it at all. it is best to get the reducer for the color from the same sup=plier and get the slowest reducer they have,you can even get retarderif y=ou need it. you have to work kind of fast to cover the entire surface at =one time or overlaps on dry stain will produce a darker color, but that s=houldn't be hard with a rod. put some stain on a rag , wrap it around the= can be varnished with whatever you want to use. i've done cabinets in gre=en, red, black,blue,yellow and white for a child's play room like this an=d they all worked fine. =----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Holder Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2001 11:17 AM ach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly = ou all think.Robert H. from dnorl@qwest.net Sun Aug 5 15:38:53 2001 f75KcqZ13154 (63.228.46.33) Subject: hydrometer This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Anyone tried using a hydrometer to keep track of varnish viscosity? =There isn't anything in the archives. I bought one yesterday to try.Dave Norling Anyone tried using a hydrometer to keep track of = viscosity? There isn't anything in the archives. I bought one yesterday = try.Dave Norling from lblan@provide.net Sun Aug 5 15:53:18 2001 f75KrHZ13615 Subject: RE: Coloring The Fly Rod Nope... it's purple! Matches Lindy's waders and the JAF reel. It isn't abright gaudy purple, it's done over Wayne's usual flame job, and is verymuted. I have a couple of the cuts from the blank, just in case I need to dopurple tying tools to match the purple mouse someday. Larry Blan -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Robert,I'm not 100% sure but I believe Wayne meant purple wraps forhisdaughters rod.Shawn Robert Holder wrote: Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach'svideohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from lblan@provide.net Sun Aug 5 15:56:29 2001 f75KuSZ13844 Subject: I hate spelling errors! Wayne's daughter's name is spelled Lyndi, not to be confused with Lindy, oneof my co-workers. Sorry about that! Larry Blan from briansr@point-net.com Sun Aug 5 16:24:11 2001 f75LOAZ14270 Sun, 5 Aug 2001 17:16:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Hi RobertJust add artist's pure colour to your Spar Varnish.Make sure it's ofexcellent qualityCheers Brian----- Original Message ----- Subject: Coloring The Fly Rod Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach'svideohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from harms1@pa.net Sun Aug 5 17:28:26 2001 f75MSPZ15176 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod I can't imagine why someone would want a bamboo rod that doesn'tlook like a bamboo rod. But for those who want to experiment withcoloration, why not just use one of the aniline dyes? There are someavailable now that are UV resistant. Even so, a couple coats of varnishshould provide all the protection you'll need against fading. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Although I have yet to try it, everyone I know who has had success hastried Pantone markers. I know from personal experiments that traditionalstains (like the Min Wax stuff) do not work. Good luck, and when I get achance to try the Pantones, I will report back to the list.Bob At 10:19 AM 8/2/2001 -0600, Robert Holder wrote:Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach'svideohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from dmanders@telusplanet.net Sun Aug 5 18:09:58 2001 f75N9vZ15974 Sun, 5 Aug 2001 17:09:51 -0600 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Robert, Was asked to scarf a tip section once - trouble is to match the original.After several attempts @ getting the heat treatment to give just the rightcolor tone, I gave the lightest color tip section a coat of brownwaterproof marker. Blended the colors by the use of alcohol. Waterproofmarkers can be removed by alcohol. Never used Pa natone markers just thegarden variety available at nearly stationary store.'course, you can get the markers in a host of colors - including purple. catch ya' Don t 10:19 AM 8/2/01 -0600, Robert Holder wrote:Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Aug 5 18:29:23 2001 f75NTMZ16455 Subject: Rod building stuff for sale Hi guys,I just had a call from a guy in Pa. Who is selling all ofhis rod building tools. So, I thought I'd put this out there to someof the new guys on the list, looking for some good tools, for agood price.He has planing forms, I think from Bootstrap. A Lie Nelsonscraper, Garrisons book, First edition. Wayne's book and Video,Culms, aged for seven years. An oven and many other items likemikes, dial gauge, etc.I have no financial interest in this, I'm just trying to helpthis guy out and help out some of the new guys that are looking If anyone is interested in this stuff, e-mail me off list andI will give you his name and phone number. He wants to sell the works as a package, but will sell pieces separately if he has to. Dave LeClair http://hometown.aol.com/leclair123/index.html from JAQFOLL@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 5 18:42:04 2001 f75Ng3Z16850 ;Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:41:58 +0000 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod No, it's a purple rod and I saw it at Carlisle many years ago. I believe heused permanganate to color it for his daughter. Jack from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Aug 5 20:48:05 2001 f761m3Z20692 Mail VirusWall NT); Mon, 06 Aug 2001 09:45:48 +0800 (5.5.2653.19) b2g@jps.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Coloring The Fly Rod Are you sure it wasn't potassium permanganate (KMnO4)? This is a darkpurple soluble crystalline solid, used as a disinfectant and antiseptic.It's also known as Condy's Crystals and is poisonous, so you should becareful with it. Hope this helps.Mike Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod He said when he colored it purple that he used permanganate which is some stuff you put in a water softener to keep the rust out. from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Sun Aug 5 21:40:49 2001 f762emZ21705 2001 19:40:48 PDT Subject: Re: hydrometer dave, how do you use a hydrometer to measureviscosity? timothy --- Dave Norling wrote:Anyone tried using a hydrometer to keep track ofvarnish viscosity? There isn't anything in thearchives. I bought one yesterday to try.Dave Norling ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Aug 5 21:52:25 2001 f762qOZ22064 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod I haven't tried it on bamboo, but Woodcraft sells alinine stain. It is soluble in alcohol and/or water. I stain reelseat inserts with it. I made a chamber out of a galvanized nipple (8" length of galvanized pipe threaded on each end). Two threaded endcaps and a fitting so I can hook up my compressor. Forces the stain completely through the wood. You can get it in most any color including red, green yellow...and as dark as you want. If it will work with hard woods, it should work on cane also. Regardsa,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 01:01 PM 8/5/01 -0400, Downandacross Rod Company wrote:Although I have yet to try it, everyone I know who has had success has tried Pantone markers. I know from personal experiments that traditional stains (like the Min Wax stuff) do not work. Good luck, and when I get a chance to try the Pantones, I will report back to the list.Bob At 10:19 AM 8/2/2001 -0600, Robert Holder wrote:Ok, here is a question for you. In the introduction of W. Cattanach's videohe was talking about how his daughter wanted a purple fly rod. Which hesaid he gave to her for the opening day of fishing. My question is this,how does one go about coloring the cane to get the color of purple or anyother color? Let me know what you all think. Robert H. from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Sun Aug 5 21:57:59 2001 f762vxZ22416 Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod No. He backed out on the potassium permanganate. He used the Pantone markers. I talked with him about it. I was trying to get a purple anodized fittings. Didn't work. Potassium permanganate is a powerful oxidizer. The stuff turned out a yucky brown. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 07:41 PM 8/5/01 -0400, Jacques Follweiler wrote:No, it's a purple rod and I saw it at Carlisle many years ago. I believe heused permanganate to color it for his daughter. Jack from EESweet@aol.com Sun Aug 5 23:12:29 2001 f764CTZ23553 Subject: Metalworking advice Hi All, Well, the list came through for me again, more than a dozen replies to my tube bending question, thanks everyone! The consensus is: Use heavy wall aluminum conduitPack with sand before bending to prevent kinksGood, cheap benders available at Harbor FreightPossibly get an electrician to do the bending Thanks again everyone! Eric HiAll, Well, the list came through for me again, more than a dozen replies tomy Use heavy wall aluminum conduitPack with sand before bending to prevent kinksGood, cheap benders available at Harbor FreightPossibly get an electrician to do the bending Thanks again everyone! Eric from dickay@alltel.net Mon Aug 6 06:57:30 2001 f76BvTZ28168 srv.alltel.net Mon, 6 Aug 2001 06:57:28 -0500 , Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod Onis, On page 181 of Wayne's first book it says that he used PotassiumPermanganate as such. "In preparing to make our daughter's purple fly rod I tried severalcombinations of strains and flaming. I eventually came up with a workablesollution. I first flame a culm of bamboo as I usually do. The culm is thensplit into the workable strips.Before I flatten the nodes I sand the bulk of the enamel off, whichis out of synch with my normal process. I then swab on a solution ofpotassium permanganate and water and allow it to soak into the pores of thepower fibers. After the solution has dried I wash the strips with denaturedalcohol to nuetralize the chemical.The strips are then prepared for heat treating. the nodes areflattened, and the strips triangled. After the strips are heat treated theyare dehydrated and planed normally.The test pieces that I have made so far show a beautiful rich purpletinting. this winter I will be making the complete rod and I am quiteexcited in anticipation of seeing the finished results." As you say this stuff is a powerful oxidizer and it may have turned brownwith age or the heat treating. I know that while in High School I contracted Athelete's Foot and a cure forthis was to swab the infected area with Potassium Permanganate and wearwhite cotton socks that had been boiled. The stuff turned the socks purpleand boiling them only lightened the color a little bit. You could tell thejocks by their purple socks. My mother even made me wear the socks to bedto keep the color off the sheets although my sisters thought purple sheetswould be neat.Dick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod No. He backed out on the potassium permanganate. He used the Pantonemarkers. I talked with him about it. I was trying to get a purpleanodized fittings. Didn't work. Potassium permanganate is a powerfuloxidizer. The stuff turned out a yucky brown. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 07:41 PM 8/5/01 -0400, Jacques Follweiler wrote:No, it's a purple rod and I saw it at Carlisle many years ago. I believeheused permanganate to color it for his daughter. Jack from rcurry@ttlc.net Mon Aug 6 08:42:53 2001 f76DgqZ00666 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20001108Netscape6/6.0 b2g@jps.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod We used to use solutions of potassium permanganate for a certain brown effect on some woods (we used potassium dichromate for most jobs... it reacted with the tannic acid and permitted us to get just the shade of brown we needed). I've tried potassium permanganate on cane and the resultant muddy brown is not very pleasing.Best regards,Reedhttp://www.overmywaders.com/ Roberts, Michael wrote: Are you sure it wasn't potassium permanganate (KMnO4)? This is a darkpurple soluble crystalline solid, used as a disinfectant and antiseptic.It's also known as Condy's Crystals and is poisonous, so you should becareful with it. Hope this helps.Mike Subject: Re: Coloring The Fly Rod He said when he colored it purple that he used permanganate which is some stuff you put in a water softener to keep the rust out. -- from OSEGAL@glcc.com Mon Aug 6 11:08:28 2001 f76G8RZ11996 with Novell_GroupWise; Mon, 06 Aug 2001 12:10:08 -0400 Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Dear Rodmakers friends, I am overwhelmed by the response and dedication that you all have shown. =Thank you ever so much. I will take advantage of the advise receive from =everyone of you, and I am sure I will make the right decision when the =time comes. Needless to say that I am at your disposal for anything you may need from =down South. Thanks and best regards, Oscar "Tim Wilhelm" 08/03/01 07:26PM >>> Oscar, Among the other names you have received, Jeff Wagner offers classes andhe =is near Cleveland Ohio. You can also find a link to his website on the =rodmakers website. Tim Subject: Re: BAMBOO ROD BUILDING/MAKING CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under assignment by =the corporation I work for. I am a hobbyist rod builder and would like to =develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend some =quality time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. Obviously =it would have to be in the States in 2002. Regards, Oscar Tell us where you are. Perhaps then we can recommend someone not too far= I am very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer =hands on classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer me= Dear Rodmakers friends, I am overwhelmed by the response and dedication that you all have = Thank you ever so much. I will take advantage of the advise receive = everyone of you, and I am sure I will make the right decision when the = comes. Needless to say that I am at your disposal for anything you may need = down South. Thanks and best regards, <twilhelm@occasionalrod.com= Oscar, Among the other names you havereceived, = link to his website on the rodmakers website. Tim ----- Original Message ----- Fro= Oscar =Segal Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 = PMSubject: Re: BAMBOO RODBUILDING/M= CLASSES/LESSONS Hi Harry, Thank you for your prompt reply. Although I am a US citizen I am located in Argentina under = develop further my very basic skills, so I thought I might spend some = time taking rod building lessons next spring or summer. Obviously it = have to be in the States in 2002. Regards, = we can recommend someone not too far from your locale. Harry= very interested in finding out regarding to rodmakers that offer hands = classes/lessons on bamboo rod building/making. Could you offer me advise= Peter = unto them, I go a fishing..." -- Harry Boyd -- http://www.canerods.com/-- = -- Our Church — from rzimmerman@kcds.net Mon Aug 6 12:00:08 2001 f76H07Z14180 be forged)) Subject: Off-topic: Colorado fishing Just wondering if anyone on-list could provide me some info about fishingthe North fork of the South Platte? I am going to be in the area aroundGrant, and was particularly interested in the areas accessible from there.Also any tips on fishing Cheesman canyon(access, etc.). Please replyoff-list so we dont bother anyone else. Thanks! Randy Zimmermanrzimmerman@kcds.net from andy@w-link.net Mon Aug 6 13:36:15 2001 f76IaEZ17888 Subject: Last weeks virus (and death of a flyfisher) All, I am aware of the virus sent from my computer to the list last week and Iapologize for any and all inconveniences. If anyone is still havingproblems because of this virus, write to me off the list and I will try tohelp eradicate the virus from your computer. Some have asked why I sentsuch files to the list. Please note that I did no such thing withintention. My computer became infected and the virus sent itself to many ofthe addresses in my email program. As soon as I became aware of what washappening I shut my computer down. How my daughter's name became (thename)attached to the virus message is a mystery to me. -------- Over the years some of you had the pleasure of meeting my former wife whowas an avid flyfisher. Angel was killed in an automobile accident in theGrand Tetons on July 29th. She had just turned 30 and was working tobecomea guide from her home in Wilson, WY. She died near the water. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Broker206.463.1273www.bamboobroker.com from twhittle@cet-inc.com Mon Aug 6 14:27:16 2001 f76JRFZ23208 content-class: urn:content-classes:messageSubject: Eastern Gathering Thread-Topic: Eastern GatheringThread-Index: AcEertRHoJ3Xjoo7EdWHNgBQBMgtsA== f76JRFZ23209 If you're planning to attend the Gathering at Roscoe in September, don'twait too long to register. Registration forms and other info isavailable on Chris Bogart's site www.canerod.com or you can email me offlist and I'll forward them to you. A highlight of the program will be a presentation on Saturday Sept. 8th of the video and "show and tell" of various Garrison items. twhittle@cet-inc.com Thanks, Tom Whittle from avyoung@iinet.net.au Mon Aug 6 19:06:05 2001 f77063Z16524 Subject: Re: Last weeks virus (and death of a flyfisher) Andy, Sorry to read about Angel. Tony Over the years some of you had the pleasure of meeting my former wifewhowas an avid flyfisher. Angel was killed in an automobile accident in theGrand Tetons on July 29th. She had just turned 30 and was working tobecomea guide from her home in Wilson, WY. She died near the water. Cordially, Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Broker206.463.1273www.bamboobroker.com /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from EESweet@aol.com Tue Aug 7 07:21:26 2001 f77CLPZ25678 Subject: Help - electrocution is imminent! Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an electric motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a strange, tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to do with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 AFCProtectedNo PCB'sKTN33U256QAP25 MFD330 VACCDE BZM359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthy fear of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbins and Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems totranslate to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something I can discard or do without? Thanks in advance,Eric Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased anelectric strange, to do (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the followingon the bottom: C 5000 AFCProtectedNo PCB'sKTN33U256QAP25 MFD330 VACCDE BZM359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthyfear Robbins and seems to translate something I can discard or do without? Thanks in advance,Eric from bosmith@ismi.net Tue Aug 7 07:35:28 2001 f77CZQZ26039 [63.215.166.130] (may be forged)) Tue, 7 Aug 2001 08:34:43 -0400 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! --=====================_2753659==_.ALT Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer of some sort. Bob Smith At 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote:Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an electricmotor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a strange,tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to dowith it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval incross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the following onthe bottom: C 5000 AFCProtectedNo PCB'sKTN33U256QAP25 MFD330 VACCDE BZM359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthyfearof it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbins andMyers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems totranslateto me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something Ican discard or do without? Thanks in advance,Eric --=====================_2753659==_.ALT Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer ofsome sort.Bob SmithAt 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote:Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased anelectric strange, to do fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the followingon the bottom: C 5000 AFC Protected No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD 330 VAC CDE BZM 359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthyfear Robbins and translate piece something I can discard or do without? Thanks in advance, Eric --=====================_2753659==_.ALT-- from avyoung@iinet.net.au Tue Aug 7 07:43:54 2001 f77ChpZ26307 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! I have no idea what that is but it sounds like a transformer or somethingso becareful. I remember blowing one up and after recovering from the shock of it(not electric) and realising I was still alive I remember the smell. I askedsome one I though would know what the smell was and asked what atransformerwas filled with and he sort of looked at the dead and smouldering object,pokedit with a screw driver and said "electricity mainly" Tony In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased anelectric motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a strange, tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to do with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid(oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the followingon the bottom: C 5000 AFC Protected No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD 330 VAC CDE BZM 359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthyfear of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbinsand Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems totranslate to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something I can discard or do without? Thanks in advance, Eric /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Windows NT crashed.I am the Blue Screen of Death.No one hears your screams. Unknown /*************************************************************************/ from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Aug 7 07:52:43 2001 f77CqgZ26721 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. A motor is an inductive device and causes the current and voltage to be =out of phase. The capacitance, in this case 25 micri Farads (MFD), will =offset the inductive phase shift and make your motor run more =efficiently. Paul Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:21 AMSubject: Help - electrocution is imminent! In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece = It is a capacitor. A motor is an inductive device and = current and voltage to be out of phase. The capacitance, in this case 25 = Farads (MFD), will offset the inductive phase shift and make your motor = efficiently. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= AMSubject: Help - electrocution = imminent!Hi All, preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out = and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 AFC = No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD 330 VAC CDEBZM = 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact = itself is a Robbins and Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 = Thanks in advance, Eric = from dmanders@telusplanet.net Tue Aug 7 07:53:32 2001 f77CrVZ26842 Subject: test - disregard from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Aug 7 07:58:37 2001 f77CwaZ27254 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. That should read micro farad not micri Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:52 AMSubject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! A motor is an inductive device and causes the current and voltage to =be out of phase. The capacitance, in this case 25 micri Farads (MFD), =will offset the inductive phase shift and make your motor run more =efficiently. Paul Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:21 AMSubject: Help - electrocution is imminent! In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece = That should read micro farad not =micri ----- Original Message ----- Goodwin Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= AMSubject: Re: Help - = imminent! It is a capacitor. A motor is an inductive device and = current and voltage to be out of phase. The capacitance, in this case = Farads (MFD), will offset the inductive phase shift and make your = more efficiently. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, August 07, = AMSubject: Help - electrocution = imminent!Hi All, = preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires = the top, and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 AFC= Protected No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD330 VAC = BZM 359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on = fact possessing a healthy fear of it, I have no idea what this = from wendt@kingcrab.nrl.navy.mil Tue Aug 7 08:50:28 2001 f77DoRZ29743 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! Howdy, Actually, it's what we used to call a BAC - Big A**ed Capacitor. The MFD gives it away. The FD stands for farads, which is measurement of capacitance. You should be able to disregard the capacitor Mark At 08:34 AM 8/7/2001 -0700, you wrote:Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer of some sort. Bob Smith At 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote:Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an electricmotor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a strange,tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to dowith it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval incross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the followingonthe bottom: C 5000 AFCProtectedNo PCB'sKTN33U256QAP25 MFD330 VACCDE BZM359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthy fearof it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbins andMyers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems totranslateto me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something Ican discard or do without? Thanks in advance,Eric from douglosey@spectrumenergy.com Tue Aug 7 09:13:19 2001 f77EDJZ01192 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Eric,Everybody is right in telling you that is a capacitor....if you have a =sadistic streak they are great to charge up and play catch with...or if =you have a real bas@#%d for a foreman on a job site....wire it up to his =chair for a quick bit of excitement in the change shack......ask me how =I know this..... losey Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:21 AMSubject: Help - electrocution is imminent! In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece = Eric,Everybody is right in telling you that = capacitor....if you have a sadistic streak they are great to charge up = catch with...or if you have a real bas@#%d for a foreman on a job = it up to his chair for a quick bit of excitement in the change = how I know this..... losey ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= AMSubject: Help - electrocution = imminent!Hi All, = preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out = and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 AFC = No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD 330 VAC CDEBZM = 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact = itself is a Robbins and Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 = Thanks in advance, Eric = from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Tue Aug 7 09:18:04 2001 f77EI3Z01456 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! The motor should have more than two wires coming out of it. The capacitoris a "starting" (or running) capacitor. The capacitor is connected in serieswith part of the coils within the motor to produce a phase shift resulting in ahigher torque at starting. I.e., it gives the motor a "push" to get it started. Some are wired in permanently, hence running capacitors, some aredisconnected by an internal centrifugal switch, hence starting capacitor. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.comEESweet@aol.com wrote:Hi All, In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an electric motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a strange, tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to do with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 AFCProtectedNo PCB'sKTN33U256QAP25 MFD330 VACCDE BZM359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthyfear of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbins and Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems totranslate to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something I can discard or do without? Thanks in advance,Eric from OSEGAL@glcc.com Tue Aug 7 09:49:03 2001 f77En2Z02799 with Novell_GroupWise; Tue, 07 Aug 2001 10:50:43 -0400 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! Hi Eric, I agree with Bob. If there is a notice "No PCB's", it is, or has built in, =a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an oil bath. Oscar Bob Smith 08/07/01 12:34PM >>>Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer of some =sort. Bob Smith At 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote: In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what to = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the following = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthy = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a Robbins = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece something = Hi Eric, in, a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an oil bath. transformer of some sort.Bob SmithAt 08:21 AM8/7/2001 = EESweet@aol.com wrote:Hi = In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently = fat can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires = out the top, and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 = Protected No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD 330VAC = 359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on electricity, in= possessing a healthy fear of it, I have no idea what this might = The motor itself is a Robbins and Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM,= from EESweet@aol.com Tue Aug 7 10:07:40 2001 f77F7dZ03752 MAILINID122-0807110726; Tue, 07 Aug 2001 11:07:26 -0400 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! So...if I don't use it, I should hang onto it, just in case...? Eric,Everybody is right in telling you that is a capacitor....if you have a sadisticstreak they are great to charge up and play catch with...or if you have a realbas@#%d for a foreman on a job site....wire it up to his chair for a quick bitof excitement in the change shack......ask me how I know this..... losey from pmgoodwin@earthlink.net Tue Aug 7 10:13:37 2001 f77FDaZ04360 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. It's not a transformer. It's a capacitor. Some capacitors have oil in =them. This one probably does but, according to the label, the oil does =not contain PCB's. Most of the transformers that had PCB's were the ones that circulate oil =through them for cooling. Small transformers would not have oil in them. =They would have been soaked in varnish and then baked to bind the =windings together so the wires didn't move around. There may have been =PCB's in the oil base but not necessarily. Paul Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 10:34 AMSubject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! Hi Eric, I agree with Bob. If there is a notice "No PCB's", it is, or has built =in, a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an oil bath. Oscar Bob Smith 08/07/01 12:34PM >>>Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer of =some sort. Bob Smith At 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote: In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased an = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or what = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece = capacitor. Some not contain PCB's. Most of the transformers that hadPCB's = transformers would not have oil in them. They would have been soaked in = and then baked to bind the windings together so the wires didn't move = There may have been PCB's in the oil base but not =necessarily. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Oscar =Segal Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= AMSubject: Re: Help - = imminent! Hi Eric, built in, a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an oil = bath. transformer of some sort.Bob SmithAt 08:21 AM8/7/2001 = EESweet@aol.com =wrote: In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently = fat can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) with two wires = out the top, and has the following on the bottom: C 5000 = Protected No PCB's KTN33U256QAP 25 MFD330 VAC = BZM 359604 8105 Not being much of an expert on = fact possessing a healthy fear of it, I have no idea what this = discard or do without? Thanks in advance, =Eric = from EESweet@aol.com Tue Aug 7 12:19:13 2001 f77HJCZ09076 MAILINID125-0807131900; Tue, 07 Aug 2001 13:19:00 -0400 Subject: Electric Motor Hi All, Once again, thanks to everyone who replied to my electocution post. It turnsout that it is a start capacitor (says so right on the website, imagine that...)which everyone says I can just leave off the installation. Instead I'll just giveit a spin by hand to start the motor. Who knows what kind of disaster was averted, thanks again! Eric from paul@lifeware.com Tue Aug 7 12:31:37 2001 f77HVZZ09692 3B622F5800213CBE for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, 7 Aug 200110:27:18 -0700 Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:26:06 +0000 Subject: Tits on a wrap Sensitivity: Private This is a multi-part message in MIME format. As I see it, I=92m only 80% prefect. I=92m having problems being consist=entwhen it comes to guide wraps; although I am consistent in the way I wrap =theway guide feet. The procedure that I use is to pull the tag end up tight =tothe end of the wrap before I trim it off flush and pull it through. It wo=rksmost of the time, but there are always 2 or 3 wraps on a section that I h=aveto redo because of the =93fuzzes=94 that pull through. I am able to spot =themmost of the time, but just got through varnishing the wraps on a rod I=92=mworking on and missed one. Are there any tricks to minimize the tits befo=reI continue with the other coats of varnish? Or will I have to redo thatwrap? Also, are there any other procedures that might work to do away wit=hthe =93fuzzes=94 altogether? Thanks for the help. Paul York Normal0DocumentEmail I’m only 80%prefect. I’m having problems being consistent when it comes to =guide wraps; althoughI am consistent in the way I wrap the way guide feet. The procedure that =I useis to pull the tag end up tight to the end of the wrap before I trim it =off flushand pull it through. It works most of the time, but there are always 2 =or 3wraps on a section that I have to redo because of the =“fuzzes” that pullthrough. I am able to spot them mostof the time, but just got through varnishing the wraps on a rod =I’m working onand missed one. Are there any tricks to minimize the tits before I =continuewith the other coats of varnish? Or will I have to redo that wrap? Also, =arethere any other procedures that might work to do away with the =“fuzzes” altogether?Thanks for the help. Paul York from thogan@rochester.rr.com Tue Aug 7 13:19:58 2001 f77IJuZ11764 f77IHOC10091 Subject: Tempory guides installation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Does anyone temporarily tape guides on the rod and cast it a few times =prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If so, is this done to =see if you like the rod action or is there some subtle change to the =guide spacing you are looking for? ThanksTaylor Normal0DocumentEmail @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in =1.25in; mso- header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; =mso-paper-source: 0; }P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}P.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso- pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font- family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}SPAN.EmailStyle15 {COLOR: black; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size: =10.0pt; mso- ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial; =mso-bidi-font-family: Arial}DIV.Section1 {page: Section1} Does anyone temporarily tape guides on= cast it a few times prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If = this done to see if you like the rod action or is there some subtle = the guide spacing you are looking for? ThanksTaylor from thogan@rochester.rr.com Tue Aug 7 13:22:09 2001 f77IM9Z12097 f77IJRC11827; Subject: Re: Tits on a wrap This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I have had success gently and quickly passing the virgin wraps under an =alcohol lamp to set them down. Use of a burnishing tools may also prove =productive.Taylor Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 1:30 PMSubject: Tits on a wrap As I see it, I'm only 80% prefect. I'm having problems being =consistent when it comes to guide wraps; although I am consistent in the =way I wrap the way guide feet. The procedure that I use is to pull the =tag end up tight to the end of the wrap before I trim it off flush and =pull it through. It works most of the time, but there are always 2 or 3 =wraps on a section that I have to redo because of the "fuzzes" that pull =through. I am able to spot them most of the time, but just got through =varnishing the wraps on a rod I'm working on and missed one. Are there =any tricks to minimize the tits before I continue with the other coats =of varnish? Or will I have to redo that wrap? Also, are there any other =procedures that might work to do away with the "fuzzes" altogether? =Thanks for the help. Paul York Normal0DocumentEmail @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in =1.25in; mso- header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; =mso-paper-source: 0; }P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}P.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso- pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font- family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}SPAN.EmailStyle15 {COLOR: black; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size: =10.0pt; mso- ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial; =mso-bidi-font-family: Arial}DIV.Section1 {page: Section1} I have had success gently and quickly = virgin wraps under an alcohol lamp to set them down. Use of a burnishing = may also prove productive.Taylor ----- Original Message ----- Paul = Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= PMSubject: Tits on a wrap having problems being consistent when it comes to guide wraps; = consistent in the way I wrap the way guide feet. The procedure that I = to pull the tag end up tight to the end of the wrap before I trim it = and pull it through. It works most of the time, but there are always 2 = wraps on a section that I have to redo because of the = through. I am able to spot them most of the time, but just got = varnishing the wraps on a rod I’m working on and missed one. Are = tricks to minimize the tits before I continue with the other coats of = Or will I have to redo that wrap? Also, are there any other procedures = might work to do away with the “fuzzes” altogether?Thanks = help. York from dannyt@frisurf.no Tue Aug 7 13:33:09 2001 f77IX8Z12972 Tue, 7 Aug 2001 20:32:57 +0200 (MET DST)User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook- Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022 Subject: Re: Tits on a wrap This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does notunderstandthis format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --MS_Mac_OE_3080061176_37739_MIME_Part Hi Paul, Try using a razor blade and trim the fuzz flush with the wraps.I leave my tag end (trim wraps) 1/2", varnish a coat, and trim the tagsafter the varnishg have cured. That way the 3 trim wraps will stay inplace........... regardsdanny Subject: Tits on a wrap As I see it, I=B9m only 80% prefect. I=B9m having problems being consistentwhen it comes to guide wraps; although I am consistent in the way I wrap th=eway guide feet. The procedure that I use is to pull the tag end up tight tothe end of the wrap before I trim it off flush and pull it through. It work=smost of the time, but there are always 2 or 3 wraps on a section that I hav=eto redo because of the =B3fuzzes=B2 that pull through. I am able to spotthemmost of the time, but just got through varnishing the wraps on a rod I=B9mworking on and missed one. Are there any tricks to minimize the tits beforeI continue with the other coats of varnish? Or will I have to redo thatwrap? Also, are there any other procedures that might work to do away withthe =B3fuzzes=B2 altogether? Thanks for the help. --MS_Mac_OE_3080061176_37739_MIME_Part Re: Tits on a wrap Hi Paul, Try using a razor blade and trim the fuzz flush with the wraps.I leave my tag end (trim wraps) 1/2", varnish a coat, and trim the tag=s after the varnishg have cured. That way the 3 trim wraps will stay in plac=e........... regardsdanny Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 12:30:20 -0500 Subject: Tits on a wrap As I see it, I=B9monly 80% pr=efect. I=B9m having problems being consistent when it comes to guidewraps; al=though I am consistent in the way I wrap the way guide feet. The proceduret=hat I use is to pull the tag end up tight to the end of the wrap before I tr=im it off flush and pull it through. It works most of the time, but there ar=e always 2 or 3 wraps on a section that I have to redo because of the=B3fuzze=s=B2 that pull through. I am able to spot them most of the time, butju=st got through varnishing the wraps on a rod I=B9m working on and missedone. =Are there any tricks to minimize the tits before I continue with the other c=oats of varnish? Or will I have to redo that wrap? Also, are there any other=procedures that might work to do away with the =B3fuzzes=B2 altogether?Thanks = Paul York --MS_Mac_OE_3080061176_37739_MIME_Part-- from harms1@pa.net Tue Aug 7 13:54:56 2001 f77IssZ14318 Subject: Re: Tempory guides installation Paul, I ALWAYS do this, but it's pretty stupid, really. I just can't wait to seehow the new rod casts. Not that it matters, cause it's too late to doanything about it anyhow. Also, I have long since worked out my guidespacings, so I'm not going to change those either. I guess it's likesneaking downstairs on Christmas morning to see what treats will be in storewhenthe grownups arrive. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Tempory guides installation Does anyone temporarily tape guides on the rod and cast it a few times priorto permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If so, is this done to see if youlike the rod action or is there some subtle change to the guide spacing youare looking for? ThanksTaylor from Eastkoyfly@aol.com Tue Aug 7 14:57:11 2001 f77JvAZ17283 Subject: (no subject) Any one have Dave Leclair's web address. T.I.A Joseph A Perrigowww.geneseevalleyrods.com5733 Griffith Rd.Portageville,NY 14536716-493-2637 Any one have DaveLeclair's web address. T.I.A www.geneseevalleyrods.com Portageville,NY 14536 from johnh@structsys.com Tue Aug 7 17:09:33 2001 f77M9XZ22101 f77M9JF11637 Subject: tits on wraps This is a multi-part message in MIME format. being something of an amatuer I don't know if I have foolproof =proceedure- but it works for me. When finishing a wrap I wind under the final 10 to 15 wraps a loop of =monofiliment and feed the tag end of the wrap thru the mono loop. when =I've made the final wrap, I gently pull the loop under the wraps until =the tag end of the wraps is snug against the final wrap then pull the =slack out of the tag end, and cut it with scissors as close to the mono =loop as you dare. then quickly and firmly jerk the mono loop and pull =the tag end under. generally the tag end will fall free of the mono =before comming up through the wraps--seems that you need 10 or 15 wraps=to accomplish and the tag end has to be trimmed close to the monoloop =with as little slack as possible. john being something of an amatuer I don't = have foolproof proceedure- but it works for me. When finishing a wrap I wind under the = 15 wraps a loop of monofiliment and feed the tag end of the wrap thru = wraps until the tag end of the wraps is snug against the final wrap then = the slack out of the tag end, and cut it with scissors as close to the = up through the wraps--seems that you need 10 or 15 wraps to accomplish = possible. john from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Tue Aug 7 17:10:36 2001 f77MAaZ22226 [208.27.26.103] Subject: Re: Tempory guides installation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. I do it to check guide placement. I always use Frank's online program = guides on and then place the rod in a jig I made. I put an old fly line =through the guides and attach it to an eyelet on the jig. On the other =end I put just enough weight to flex the rod. I can then move the =guides where I need to to get optimal guide placement. Then I take it =out in the yard and cast the hell out of it, just to see how it feels. Joe Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 2:18 PMSubject: Tempory guides installation Does anyone temporarily tape guides on the rod and cast it a few times =prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If so, is this done to =see if you like the rod action or is there some subtle change to the =guide spacing you are looking for? ThanksTaylor Normal0DocumentEmail @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in =1.25in; mso- header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; =mso-paper-source: 0; }P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso- fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; =mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}P.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso- pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font- family: "Times New Roman"}DIV.MsoAutoSig {FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times NewRoman"; =mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}SPAN.EmailStyle15 {COLOR: black; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-ansi-font-size: =10.0pt; mso- ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial; =mso-bidi-font-family: Arial}DIV.Section1 {page: Section1} online program for guide placement, but I use it only as a = in the yard and cast the hell out of it, just to see how it =feels. Joe other....."What a Great Life". ----- Original Message ----- hogan Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= PM installation Does anyone temporarily tape guides = and cast it a few times prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? = is this done to see if you like the rod action or is there some subtle = to the guide spacing you are looking for? ThanksTaylor from b2g@jps.net Tue Aug 7 18:16:49 2001 f77NGnZ23519 QAA07838 Subject: RE: Bitter Sweet Well I wanted to thank all that responded with their encouragement. Thisevening I was able to take the rod with the 2nd tip outside with the guidestaped on and did some lawn casting with it to get feel for the rod andadjust the guide positioning. Then I took the rod back to the shop andstarted wrapping the guides on. So far so good and the excitement buildssince it has been a long time coming. As far as the performance of the rodit sure was sweet feeling. On the short casts (approx. 30ft) it laid outthe line well with plenty of power to punch out the line (approx. + 60ft).But that is about where I quit for this evening, I didn't want to push myluck. As far as the information about the rod it is a 7'-6", 5 wt.patterned after the Payne 101 but the dimensions were shifted in the tipsection to accommodate my planning forms. I did take the finishedmeasurements of the rod and did a detailed rod comparison of the two rodsand was surprised to discover the differences between the two rods. Thishelped me see how that small change affected the rod performance and itlearning experience for me as well. Thanks again everyone, Robert -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Bitter Sweet Robert, this is PRECISELY what happened to me, TWICE. Rod #1, I wasrubbingout the finish, so close to done I was practically selecting a fly to tieon. I snap the tip. My wife heard the wail from upstairs and the other endof the house. Rod #2, I finish it, entirely finish it. Take it out fishing pretty dam frsutrating, adn I've thought about giving up more than once, butI just keep reminding myself, the members of the rodmakers list are NOT abunch of geniuses (nice guys, but they definiately are not geniuses), so ifthey can it, so can we. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Subject: Bitter Sweet Well the last couple of days has been fill with many hours of rod building.After I have spent the last year gathering the tools needed to venture inthe craft of building cane fly rods, also during that time working on myfirst rod here and there when time permitted. Now in the past 24 hours Ihave just hit the bottom of disappointment. Last night I finished gluing onthe ferrules of the rod I am building, yea I see the light at the end of thetunnel it is starting to look like a rod now. Well this morning I went intothe shop and checked the glue on the ferrules. The female ferrule's gluehad cured and then with is slight tug on the male ferrule, pop, off come themale ferrule. All is not lost I will clean everything up and re-glue it on.So out comes the epoxy and re-gluing the ferrule commenced. Rememberhow Isaid that I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Well boy oh boy thatwasn't no light for the end of the tunnel. Pow! The freight train hit mein one quick snap while I was putting small amount of pressure on the rodtip section to push out the air pockets in the glue. So with my twodaughters standing their all I could do is say something under my breathquietly and stand their bewildered. Like the deer in the head light lookwhile my heart sank. After a few hours of utter disappointment, I picked up where I left off.Well the rod section snapped several inches from the bottom of the sectionso it isn't a throw away section yet. I'll hang onto it for a six foot rodor something like that. Now I had to pick myself up and go on, so luckilywhen building this rod I created a second tip and I could go on with theproject. So this entire day was filled working on the second tip for thisrod. The second rod tip section wasn't pulled out of the glue bindingstring yet, because a week ago I decided not to finish this tip right now sothat I could complete this rod for an upcoming fishing trip I am going on.Well I am now happy to say that at 2:00 am in the morning I finally turnedoff the lights in the shop with the second rod tip finished sanded and theferrule glued on. As well as I finished mounting the cork rod handle on thebutt section of the rod. Now I can relax for the day while things dry, Ideserve it after this disappointing morning I have had. Sorry about the long story but I needed to let it out to my fellowrodmakers. Thanks for the lending ear. Robert H. from edriddle@mindspring.com Tue Aug 7 19:56:46 2001 f780ujZ25124 Subject: One-piece rod This is a multi-part message in MIME format. All: As one who has been refinishing/restoring bamboo fly-rods as a hobby for =quite a while and gleaning related tips from you Listmembers ( GREAT =BUNCH) for the last couple of years, I'm finally seriously considering = I'm convinced the archives can provide all the info I'll need in terms =of the many tooling options, etc., but I've got this "hairy bug" about =building a one piece rod in the 4 to 6 wt. range. This isn't to say =that my first rod will be a one-piece but that's an objective. Any =thoughts from those of you with experince concerning making a one-piecer = Regards.Ed All: As one who has been = you Listmembers ( GREAT BUNCH) for the last couple of years, I'm finally = this "hairy bug" about building a one piece rod in the 4 to 6 wt. = Regards.Ed from canderson@inebraska.com Tue Aug 7 20:29:40 2001 f781TeZ25781 Subject: fishing trip I will be in the Seattle area all next week. Any good trout/salmonaction in the area? from jkcerise@rof.net Tue Aug 7 20:33:55 2001 f781XsZ25977 Subject: Re: Tits on a wrap At 12:30 PM 8/7/2001 -0500, you wrote: As I see it, I m only 80% prefect. I m having problems being consistent when it comes to guide wraps; although I am consistent in the way I wrap the way guide feet. The procedure that I use is to pull the tag end up tight to the end of the wrap before I trim it off flush and pull it through. It works most of the time, but there are always 2 or 3 wraps on a section that I have to redo because of the fuzzes that pull through. I am able to spot them most of the time, but just got through varnishing the wraps on a rod I m working on and missed one. Are there any tricks to minimize the tits before I continue with the other coats of varnish? Or will I have to redo that wrap? Also, are there any other procedures that might work to do away with the fuzzes altogether? Thanks for the help. Paul,Under the heading 'IT WORKS, THEREFORE I DO IT THAT WAY!!' is my method of tying off. I use a loop of 4# mono line to pull the last tag under. It is small in diameter, therefore it leaves the wraps that it used to be under fairly tightly wound when I'm finished. I wrap over the loop where I can. Holding the wraps tight with a fingertip, I cut the wrapping thread about four inches long, pass it through the loop left exposed, and pull it up against the wraps that are in place. Up against, just snugly, not under, at this point. Using a razor blade, I cut the wrapping thread really close to the loop on tight little trims and within 1/16" on the ten turn models. I actually try and saw the thread if I cut it to the longer 1/16" length, fraying it a bit as I 'saw' it off, making it effectively 'thinner' and less obvious after it is pulled under the wraps. Pulling the loop under drags the tag end under the previous wraps locking the wrap in place. Direction of pull it something you will try and learn from as it really does make a difference in the final look. Unless I'm in a bind with a short tieoff, I usually try and pull it almost parallel to the axis of the rod, but on those times when you cannot, a pull more in the direction of the thread direction is in order, but you've gotta be short here or it will leave your 'tits'. A burnishing tool here while spinning the rod in the lathe will further aid you in making the resulting 'bump' disappear. The trick is to cut it short for the shorter ones and as long as practical on the longer ones. Careful with the burnisher, for if turning against the wrap direction, it will tend to drag slack thread toward the end and loosen the wraps to the point of a rewrap. You should be turning reasonably slowly now and burnish the entire wrap so as to eliminate any spaces between the threads (packing the wrap). Don't let 'em kid ya, all wraps look better with a little packing help! A good glass is your bud here! I use either a flip focal or a pair of MagEye's for wrapping and you'll spot space problems well before they become apermanent part of the finished wrap. Also, using a blade rather than a scissor to cut the tag lets you cut it where you want to, not where you have to. The burnishing tool I use is a tying bodkin with a polished metal cap. It has flats for the long flat work and the metal shank works well on tighter areas. There are several different burnishers available commercially, but this one works for me.Finally, now and then (more often than I like!), I think I've done a bang-up job and when I take the rod out of the drying box, Alas!!, you have one of more of those 'tits'!! Very carefully, using a new RB, plane off the top of the 'tit' so it matches the level of the surrounding finish. The second coat will go on and cover this tiny spot as if it wasn't there!! Ever have your rod stop turning after you're snoozing and get a sag of finish? Try the same trick there, plane it down with a 'new' blade and shoot it with another thin coat of finish to cover the planing marks. Takes time, but on a weave or other critical wrap, it can save the day. Try it on a practice stick to find just how drastic you can get here. One new coat on a wrap is often cheaper, laborwise, than a rewrap and if you honestly cannot see it when it is set, neither can your customer. If you can still see it, cut the thing off and you haven't lost any more than you previously thought you had anyway!!! The worst you can do is a rewrap, the best is a great save!!!As in all delicate work, the real success of all of us who do exacting things is our ability to recover successfully when we royally screw things up!! Remember the old days of the typewriter (the what???), one who could erase so you couldn't find it, saved lots of typing time!! Same goes here and we all have had our share of "OH S**T!!!" stories to tell! Sharing these tricks of the trade is what makes rodbuilding the fun that it is. Try subscribing to a couple of the rodbuilding mags and you'll find more tips and tricks than you can remember, but if you save back issues, you'll always have a reference. Time and time again, I've thought I read something about that somewhere, and found a solution to my bungling in a back issue!!! Rodcrafters magazine and Rodmaker are two of the best, but there are others out there. You're reading one right now!!! What a resource we have in one another!! Cheers, John John K. CeriseColorado Custom Rods1205 CoRd 111Carbondale, CO 81623970-963-2795jkcerise@rof.net from jkcerise@rof.net Tue Aug 7 20:46:37 2001 f781kaZ26304 Subject: Re: Tempory guides installation At 02:18 PM 8/7/2001 -0400, taylor hogan wrote:Does anyone temporarily tape guides on the rod and cast it a few times prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If so, is this done to see if you like the rod action or is there some subtle change to the guide spacing you are looking for? I usually tape the guides on and do a static deflection test to assure that the rod is stressed in as even a manner as I can possibly achieve, often using various levels of stress (weight). This lets me 'see' what the rod is doing when it is flexed and sometimes moving a guide as little as a quarter inch makes enough difference to be worth the trouble. Even on those 'Plastics', LOL!! Cheers, john c from martinj@aa.net Tue Aug 7 21:49:24 2001 f782nJZ27286 Tue, 7 Aug 2001 19:49:11 -0700 Subject: RE: Tempory guides installation I Wrap the guides on temporarily, prior to varnish to check the rod tosee if it needs twisting. It is a lot easier to see little twists in therod and to straighten them out with the guides temporarily in place. Ialways check this before by laying the blank flat on a surface andrunning a pencil or an old cut off piece of cane up the blank andlooking to see if the rod rotates, but it is easier to see with guideson. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Tempory guides installation At 02:18 PM 8/7/2001 -0400, taylor hogan wrote:Does anyone temporarily tape guides on the rod and cast it a few times prior to permantly wrap/varnish them in place? If so, is this done tosee if you like the rod action or is there some subtle change to the guide spacing you are looking for? I usually tape the guides on and do a static deflection test to assure that the rod is stressed in as even a manner as I can possibly achieve, often using various levels of stress (weight). This lets me'see' what the rod is doing when it is flexed and sometimes moving a guide as little as a quarter inch makes enough difference to be worth the trouble. Even on those 'Plastics', LOL!! Cheers, john c from richjez@enteract.com Tue Aug 7 22:33:14 2001 f783XDZ27968 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: fishing trip --=====================_19269056==_.ALT No there are no fist there. I will go and suffer in your place. Send me your tickes and hotel reservations; oh and credit card number. :-)Rich Jezioro At 08:32 PM 8/7/01, Craig Anderson wrote:I will be in the Seattle area all next week. Any good trout/salmonaction in the area? --=====================_19269056==_.ALT No there are no fist there. I will go and suffer in yourplace. Send me your tickes and hotel reservations; oh and credit cardnumber. :-)Rich Jezioro At 08:32 PM 8/7/01, Craig Anderson wrote:I will be in the Seattle area all next action in the area? --=====================_19269056==_.ALT-- from DNHayashida@aol.com Wed Aug 8 01:12:40 2001 f786CeZ00233 Subject: Re: Tempory guides installation One thing to be careful of. Some line cleaners have silicone in them. Practice casting can leave the silicone on the rod and give you fish eyes in the wrap and rod varnish. If you do tape guides on to test cast make sureyou clean the rod thoroughly before varnishing. Darryl One thing to be careful of. Some line cleaners have silicone in them. Practice casting can leave the silicone on the rod and give you fish eyesin the wrap and rod varnish. If you do tape guides on to test cast makesure you clean the rod thoroughly before varnishing. Darryl from horsesho@ptd.net Wed Aug 8 05:19:26 2001 f78AJPZ02248 sender ) Subject: Re: One-piece rod --------------F44A48B714D40C9291EBB23D Ed, I have made 1p'cers up to and including 6' in length. Any longer andit's a real pain to tranport. For me a 6' planing form works great. Forlonger single piecers you will need a longer form. You either have tomake it yourself or get one from Jeff Wagner (list member) as he is theonly one that I know that has them over 6' long. You are in luck in that1 piecers are the fastest (by far) rod to make. Marty Ed Riddle wrote: All: As one who has been refinishing/restoring bamboo fly-rods as ahobby for quite a while and gleaning related tips from you Listmembers( GREAT BUNCH) for the last couple of years, I'm finally seriouslyconsidering jumping into the "making" arena. I'm convinced thearchives can provide all the info I'll need in terms of the manytooling options, etc., but I've got this "hairy bug" about building aone piece rod in the 4 to 6 wt. range. This isn't to say that myfirst rod will be a one-piece but that's an objective. Any thoughts from those of you with experince concerning making a one-piecer (maxlength, best forms, etc.) would be appreciated. Regards.Ed --------------F44A48B714D40C9291EBB23D Ed, I have made 1p'cers up to and including 6' in length. Any longer andit's a real pain to tranport. For me a 6' planing form works great. Forlonger single piecers you will need a longer form. You either have to makeit yourself or get one from Jeff Wagner (list member) as he is the onlyone that I know that has them over 6' long. You are in luck in that 1 piecersare the fastest (by far) rod to make. MartyEd Riddle wrote: one who has been refinishing/restoring bamboo fly-rods as a hobby for quitea while and gleaning related tips from you Listmembers ( GREAT BUNCH) forthe last couple of years, I'm finally seriously considering jumping into convinced the archives can provide all the info I'll need in terms of themany tooling options, etc., but I've got this "hairy bug" about building from those of you with experince concerning making a one-piecer (maxlength, --------------F44A48B714D40C9291EBB23D-- from anglport@con2.com Wed Aug 8 07:11:32 2001 f78CBVZ03530 Subject: Re: One-piece rod This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Marty,They're not so hard to transport! Bill Fink makes and uses them all =the time. I teased him about his "rod tube" though. It's name is ="Suburban" I think. *G*Art Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 6:17 AMSubject: Re: One-piece rod Ed, I have made 1p'cers up to and including 6' in length. Any longer =and it's a real pain to tranport. For me a 6' planing form works great. = to make it yourself or get one from Jeff Wagner (list member) as he is =the only one that I know that has them over 6' long. You are in luck in = All: As one who has been refinishing/restoring bamboo fly-rods as a =hobby for quite a while and gleaning related tips from you Listmembers ( =GREAT BUNCH) for the last couple of years, I'm finally seriously =considering jumping into the "making" arena. I'm convinced the archives =can provide all the info I'll need in terms of the many tooling options, =etc., but I've got this "hairy bug" about building a one piece rod in =the 4 to 6 wt. range. This isn't to say that my first rod will be a =one-piece but that's an objective. Any thoughts from those of you with =experince concerning making a one-piecer (max length, best forms, etc.) =would be appreciated. Regards.Ed Marty, hard = his "rod tube" though. It's name is "Suburban" I think. *G*Art ----- Original Message ----- none = =rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Wednesday, August 08, = AMSubject: Re: One-piece =rodEd, I have made 1p'cers up to and including 6' in = longer and it's a real pain to tranport. For me a 6' planing form = it yourself or get one from Jeff Wagner (list member) as he is the = that I know that has them over 6' long. You are in luck in that 1 = fly-rods as a hobby for quite a while and gleaning related tips from = Listmembers ( GREAT BUNCH) for the last couple of years, I'm finally = = archives can provide all the info I'll need in terms of the many = options, etc., but I've got this "hairy bug" about building a one = from dickay@alltel.net Wed Aug 8 07:39:09 2001 f78Cd9Z04102 srv.alltel.net Wed, 8 Aug 2001 07:39:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Eric, Paul and Onis are correct. It is a capacitor. For that size of =motor it can be either a RUN or START capacitor. You may have seen some=electric motors with a hump on top of them. Under the hump was the =capacitor. If you took a ceiling fan apart you would find a small =rectangular box in there with two wire, a run capacitor. Also, a =capacitor and a condenser are the same thing. Look on the motor for a wiring diagram or schematic. The capacitor is =represented by the symbol that looks like this -|(- . Either wire from =the capacitor can be connected in per the wiring diagram. It will help =the motor start and run cooler and more efficiently. Use it. I work with items like this all the time on furnaces and air =conditioners. Some air conditioner compressors have both Start and Run =capacitors. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrman Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 10:13 AMSubject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! It's not a transformer. It's a capacitor. Some capacitors have oil in =them. This one probably does but, according to the label, the oil does =not contain PCB's. Most of the transformers that had PCB's were the ones that circulate =oil through them for cooling. Small transformers would not have oil in =them. They would have been soaked in varnish and then baked to bind the =windings together so the wires didn't move around. There may have been =PCB's in the oil base but not necessarily. Paul Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 10:34 AMSubject: Re: Help - electrocution is imminent! Hi Eric, I agree with Bob. If there is a notice "No PCB's", it is, or has =built in, a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an oil =bath. Oscar Bob Smith 08/07/01 12:34PM >>>Not sure,but the line 'No PCB's' suggests that it is a transformer =of some sort. Bob Smith At 08:21 AM 8/7/2001 -0400, EESweet@aol.com wrote: In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently purchased = motor from a surplus dealer on the web. It arrived, along with a = tin can like device. I don't know what this second piece is or = with it. It's about 6" tall, shaped like a fat can of lighter = cross section) with two wires sticking out the top, and has the = Not being much of an expert on electricity, in fact possessing a = of it, I have no idea what this might be. The motor itself is a = Myers, 1/8 horsepower, 1675 RPM, 115V, 60 HZ type, which seems to = to me as "plug it into the wall and go". Is this second piece = apart you would find a small rectangular box in there with two wire, a = thing. Look on the motor for a wiring diagram= I work with items like this all the = Start and Run capacitors. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrman ----- Original Message ----- Goodwin Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001= AMSubject: Re: Help - = imminent! capacitor. Some = does not contain PCB's. Most of the transformers that had = transformers would not have oil in them. They would have been soaked = varnish and then baked to bind the windings together so the wires = necessarily. Paul ----- Original Message ----- Oscar = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Sent: Tuesday, August 07, = AMSubject: Re: Help - = imminent! Hi Eric, built in, a transformer, or some type of zan electrical coil in an = bath. = transformer of some sort.Bob SmithAt 08:21 AM = -0400, EESweet@aol.com =wrote: In preparation for building a Franken Lathe, I recently = shaped like a fat can of lighter fluid (oval in cross section) = two wires sticking out the top, and has the following on the = C 5000 AFC Protected No PCB'sKTN33U256QAP = 330 VAC CDE BZM 359604 8105 Not beingmuch of = expert on electricity, in fact possessing a healthy fear of = = second piece something I can discard or do without? = = from BarbRain@aol.com Wed Aug 8 08:36:31 2001 f78DaVZ06197 Subject: Re: One-piece rod Ed, if Enzo Ferrari was to build a fly rod, it would be one piece. Their power to weight ratio is enhanced by eliminating the ferule and reducing the butt section accordingly. In addition the flex is not interupted by a stiff area. This makes a greater difference when the the total rod is short. Transportaton is not all that bad, a 7 foot tube easily fits in an RX-7. Maybe that is what the "7" means. Go for it. You will not be sorry. George Rainville Ed, if Enzo Ferrari wasto build a fly rod, it would be one piece. Their power to weight ratio is enhanced by eliminating the ferule and reducingthe butt section accordingly. In addition the flex is not interupted by a stiff area. This makes a greater difference when the the total rod is short. Transportaton is not all that bad, a 7 foot tube easily fits in an RX-7. Maybe that is what the "7" means. Go for it. You will not be sorry. Rainville from edriddle@mindspring.com Wed Aug 8 09:14:53 2001 f78EErZ10014 Subject: Temporary guide installation This is a multi-part message in MIME format. FYI: wrapping, I use little circular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. I found =these in the back of a drawer and remember that they were used by my son=in association with his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong time ago. =They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed FYI: elastics". Ed from gjm80301@yahoo.com Wed Aug 8 09:38:43 2001 f78EcgZ12850 Aug 2001 07:38:43 PDT Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation I do the same thing with bands I cut from latex tubing. Makes itvery easy to try different spacings. --- Ed Riddle wrote:FYI: wrapping, I use little circular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and remember that they wereused by my son in association with his teeth-braces/retainer aloooong time ago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from mbiondo@wuacn.wustl.edu Wed Aug 8 10:12:10 2001 f78FC9Z14505 Subject: Re: One-piece rod Marty seez... Ed, I have made 1p'cers up to and including 6' in length. Any longerand it's a real pain to tranport. For me a 6' planing form worksgreat. For longer single piecers you will need a longer form. A full length form definitely makes things easier, but is not a necessity. Just set your regular forms for the butt half of the rod you are making, and plane that half of the strips. Then reset the forms for the tip half, and start planing the other half of the strip that will be the tip of the rod. I was always amused (and fascinated) by the story about the forms Bill Waara started making rods with. I don't remember the year - maybe the 20's or 30's Bill was working at a Ford plant as a machinist. Not having access to machine tools other than the plant's, and not being allowed to remove material from the plant he made a one foot long set of forms that would fit in his lunchbox so that he could get it out of the plant unseen. The forms were similar to the old Herters non-adjustable forms. I understand he made quite a few rods on those forms, by planing a one foot sections at a time. Where there is a will, there's a way... Mike- from flytyr@southshore.com Wed Aug 8 10:32:12 2001 f78FWBZ15651 f78FWBb12130 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed from lblan@provide.net Wed Aug 8 11:10:11 2001 f78GAAZ18962 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation http://netwinsite.com/top_mail.htm -- ListProc(tm) by CREN Dale Clemens sells surgical tubing in a variety of sizes. Larry Blan Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed http://www.provide.net from RHOLDER@SMURFIT.COM Wed Aug 8 11:23:49 2001 f78GNmZ19736 Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for a fishing trip that is scheduled now it is ready for varnishing. The plan was to varnish the rod this week andlet it cure during the next week. Well that was the plan until this morning. The fellow that I was going with asked me to change the fishing date to thisFriday the 10th. Now here is the dilemma and question for everyone. Is itpossible to put one coat of varnish on the rod this evening let that cure toprotect the rod and the wraps and use the new rod on Friday? Then afterthe trip put the remaining coats of varnish on the rod. The instructions forthe varnish stated to redcoat within 24 hrs of application. But that wouldn'tbe totally possible to do because of the time frame that I am working on. Sofire away and let me know what everyone thinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com from jmpio@nhbm.com Wed Aug 8 11:30:03 2001 f78GU2Z21333 Subject: RE: Varnish Question I don't know what other list members will think of this practice, but it isone I developed from woodworking. When using polyurethane varnishes,including spar polys, the normal extended finishing schedule (coat, dry 24hours, steel wool, coat, dry 24 hours, steel wool, coat, etc.) is necessarybecause of the nature of the poly varnishes. You need to steel wool or sandto create mechanical bonding between coats, and you can't steel wool orsanduntil the prior coat has cured. You can put on multiple coats, however, ifyou don't allow the prior coat to cure. Many of the new varnishes will turnquite tacky within 10-15 minutes, and be relatively stable within an hour oreven less (Minwax Helmsman has this property). You could put on severalcoats in one evening. The downside is that these coats will not look allthat good, and you will end up sanding quite a bit of them off when it comestime to put a real finish on. But in the meantime you can put 3 or 4 coatsof varnish on to protect the rod. If you can then put the rod in a nicewarm, dry place until Friday, those coats will be cured enough to use bythen. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for a fishing trip that isscheduled for next Friday (Aug. 17). The rod was finished being wrappedlast night and now it is ready for varnishing. The plan was to varnish therod this week and let it cure during the next week. Well that was the planuntil this morning. The fellow that I was going with asked me to change thefishing date to this Friday the 10th. Now here is the dilemma and question evening let that cure to protect the rod and the wraps and use the new rodon Friday? Then after the trip put the remaining coats of varnish on therod. The instructions for the varnish stated to redcoat within 24 hrs ofapplication. But that wouldn't be totally possible to do because of thetime frame that I am working on. So fire away and let me know whateveryonethinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com from teekay35@interlynx.net Wed Aug 8 13:54:01 2001 f78Is0Z28309 Subject: Re: Varnish Question Varnishes like Varathane are designed for multiple coats every 4-5 hours onhardwood flooring. This time of year a few hours hanging on the clothesline will cure the varnish very quickly. I've started in the morning with1st coat, second at noon, 3rd at 5.00pm and fished the rod the next day. from dryfly@erols.com Wed Aug 8 14:17:40 2001 f78JHdZ29653 ([207.172.195.208] helo=erols.com) Subject: Re: Varnish Question That could be a problem depending on the humidity. Here in the east thehumidity is currently unbearable. Ted wrote: Varnishes like Varathane are designed for multiple coats every 4-5 hoursonhardwood flooring. This time of year a few hours hanging on the clothesline will cure the varnish very quickly. I've started in the morning with1st coat, second at noon, 3rd at 5.00pm and fished the rod the next day. from jim_hecht@hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 14:27:29 2001 f78JRSZ00395 Wed, 8 Aug 2001 12:27:24 -0700 Wed, 08 Aug 2001 19:27:24 GMT Subject: Lathe threading question FILETIME=[26CF9A60:01C12040] I currently have a Taig, which I have used for rod work and cap and rings, but was hoping to learn to make locking reelseats. Does anyone know if the import 7x10s or 7x12s would be capable of cutting internal and external threads on the diameters used for reelseats? Has anyone successfully done so with these lathes? (I've seen some suggestion that you might need to find a way to slow down the spindle speeds to cut threads in this size material). Any views on these lathes, tips or other advice on making locking reelseats would be appreciated. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from pvansch@wethersfield.k12.ct.us Wed Aug 8 14:31:01 2001 f78JV0Z00786 Subject: Apprentice Is there anyone in Connecticut on the list that might be interested inletting me with them or teach me the art of building bamboo flyrods? Thanks, Peter from twilhelm@occasionalrod.com Wed Aug 8 14:57:11 2001 f78JvAZ03325 Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:57:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation You might find latex tubing at a medical supply store near you. Also I didsome searching on the net for tubing and I found out it is commonly used onspearguns by scuba divers. I haven't checked any of the local dive shopsyet but here is a link to a supply house on the net.http://www.reefscuba.com/surgical_tubing.htm Tim ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed from lblove@omniglobal.net Wed Aug 8 16:25:17 2001 f78LPGZ11702 Subject: RE: Lathe threading question If you need to slow the machine down forthreading use a crank mounted on the back ofthe spindle/throat of the lathe. Myford lathescome with a handle from the factory, all theother machines we made handles/cranks for.Under fire I have just "pulled the chuck over" techinque before on larger lathes when cutting4-40 threads and even 2-56 threads(just make surethat the tool is on centerline of the machine). hope this helps,Brad -----Original Message----- Subject: Lathe threading question I currently have a Taig, which I have used for rod work and cap and rings,but was hoping to learn to make locking reelseats. Does anyone know if theimport 7x10s or 7x12s would be capable of cutting internal and externalthreads on the diameters used for reelseats? Has anyone successfully doneso with these lathes? (I've seen some suggestion that you might need tofind a way to slow down the spindle speeds to cut threads in this sizematerial). Any views on these lathes, tips or other advice on making lockingreelseats would be appreciated. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from cathcreek@hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 16:57:18 2001 f78LvIZ12618 Wed, 8 Aug 2001 14:57:10 -0700 Wed, 08 Aug 2001 21:57:09 GMT Subject: RE: Varnish Question FILETIME=[12A31070:01C12055] you could just use tongue oil on it until you get back and then varnish. I have done this and it worked just fine. Rob Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: jmpio@nhbm.com Subject: RE: Varnish QuestionDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:33:14 -0600 I don't know what other list members will think of this practice, but it isone I developed from woodworking. When using polyurethane varnishes,including spar polys, the normal extended finishing schedule (coat, dry 24hours, steel wool, coat, dry 24 hours, steel wool, coat, etc.) is necessarybecause of the nature of the poly varnishes. You need to steel wool or sandto create mechanical bonding between coats, and you can't steel wool or sanduntil the prior coat has cured. You can put on multiple coats, however, ifyou don't allow the prior coat to cure. Many of the new varnishes will turnquite tacky within 10-15 minutes, and be relatively stable within an hour oreven less (Minwax Helmsman has this property). You could put on severalcoats in one evening. The downside is that these coats will not look allthat good, and you will end up sanding quite a bit of them off when it comestime to put a real finish on. But in the meantime you can put 3 or 4 coatsof varnish on to protect the rod. If you can then put the rod in a nicewarm, dry place until Friday, those coats will be cured enough to use bythen. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for a fishing trip that isscheduled for next Friday (Aug. 17). The rod was finished being wrappedlast night and now it is ready for varnishing. The plan was to varnish therod this week and let it cure during the next week. Well that was the planuntil this morning. The fellow that I was going with asked me to change thefishing date to this Friday the 10th. Now here is the dilemma and question evening let that cure to protect the rod and the wraps and use the new rodon Friday? Then after the trip put the remaining coats of varnish on therod. The instructions for the varnish stated to redcoat within 24 hrs ofapplication. But that wouldn't be totally possible to do because of thetime frame that I am working on. So fire away and let me know what everyonethinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from homes-sold@home.com Wed Aug 8 18:00:46 2001 f78N0jZ14359 femail41.sdc1.sfba.home.com ;Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:00:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Lowe's Hardware carries surgical tubing in different sizes. You can also use"O" rings.----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation You might find latex tubing at a medical supply store near you. Also I didsome searching on the net for tubing and I found out it is commonly used onspearguns by scuba divers. I haven't checked any of the local dive shopsyet but here is a link to a supply house on the net.http://www.reefscuba.com/surgical_tubing.htm Tim ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed from cathcreek@hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 18:23:15 2001 f78NNFZ15348 Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:23:03 -0700 Wed, 08 Aug 2001 23:23:03 GMT Subject: Re: Lathe threading question FILETIME=[129166C0:01C12061] James, the imports have the gears to change the spead for threadcutting. They also have the powerfeed which is what you need to do these. I have yet to try it, but hope to soon. Let me know what you find out! Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: "James Hecht" Subject: Lathe threading questionDate: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:27:24 -0400 I currently have a Taig, which I have used for rod work and cap and rings,but was hoping to learn to make locking reelseats. Does anyone know if theimport 7x10s or 7x12s would be capable of cutting internal and externalthreads on the diameters used for reelseats? Has anyone successfullydoneso with these lathes? (I've seen some suggestion that you might need tofind a way to slow down the spindle speeds to cut threads in this sizematerial). Any views on these lathes, tips or other advice on making lockingreelseats would be appreciated. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from channer@frontier.net Wed Aug 8 18:26:10 2001 f78NQ8Z15600 Subject: Re: Lathe threading question James;The Grizzly 7x12 comes somplete with change gears for thread cutting, itis designed for it. And not too expensive,either, about $450 or $500 ifI remeber correctly.John James Hecht wrote: I currently have a Taig, which I have used for rod work and cap and rings,but was hoping to learn to make locking reelseats. Does anyone know iftheimport 7x10s or 7x12s would be capable of cutting internal and externalthreads on the diameters used for reelseats? Has anyone successfullydoneso with these lathes? (I've seen some suggestion that you might need tofind a way to slow down the spindle speeds to cut threads in this sizematerial). Any views on these lathes, tips or other advice on making lockingreelseats would be appreciated. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Wed Aug 8 20:09:13 2001 f7919DZ19379 2001 18:09:05 PDT Subject: RE: Varnish Question rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu yep! it's true! there are several that have done justthat. but, beware!, those that row against the flowwill be known as rabblerousers! timothy --- Robert Clarke wrote:you could just use tongue oil on it until you getback and then varnish. I have done this and it worked just fine. Rob Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: jmpio@nhbm.com Subject: RE: Varnish QuestionDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:33:14 -0600 I don't know what other list members will think ofthis practice, but it isone I developed from woodworking. When usingpolyurethane varnishes,including spar polys, the normal extended finishingschedule (coat, dry 24hours, steel wool, coat, dry 24 hours, steel wool,coat, etc.) is necessarybecause of the nature of the poly varnishes. Youneed to steel wool or sandto create mechanical bonding between coats, and youcan't steel wool or sanduntil the prior coat has cured. You can put onmultiple coats, however, ifyou don't allow the prior coat to cure. Many ofthe new varnishes will turnquite tacky within 10-15 minutes, and be relativelystable within an hour oreven less (Minwax Helmsman has this property). Youcould put on severalcoats in one evening. The downside is that thesecoats will not look allthat good, and you will end up sanding quite a bitof them off when it comestime to put a real finish on. But in the meantimeyou can put 3 or 4 coatsof varnish on to protect the rod. If you can thenput the rod in a nicewarm, dry place until Friday, those coats will becured enough to use bythen. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for afishing trip that isscheduled for next Friday (Aug. 17). The rod wasfinished being wrappedlast night and now it is ready for varnishing. Theplan was to varnish therod this week and let it cure during the next week.Well that was the planuntil this morning. The fellow that I was goingwith asked me to change thefishing date to this Friday the 10th. Now here isthe dilemma and question varnish on the rod thisevening let that cure to protect the rod and thewraps and use the new rodon Friday? Then after the trip put the remainingcoats of varnish on therod. The instructions for the varnish stated toredcoat within 24 hrs ofapplication. But that wouldn't be totally possibleto do because of thetime frame that I am working on. So fire away andlet me know what everyonethinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messengerhttp://phonecard.yahoo.com/ from bstotz@ma.ultranet.com Wed Aug 8 20:35:25 2001 f791ZOZ20004 Subject: Refinishing Surf Rod I have come into possession of an old bamboo "Montague" surf rod.The rod windings are in black, and I am sure that Montague never used blackon theirrods! Apparently somebody re-did them at some time. (And not too well,either!) I have some deep red and some maroon thread (nylon) that wasgiven tome by my late uncle, who worked at the Montague Rod Shop for many years. Iwould like to re-do all of the windings and maybe even refinish the varnishwork on the rod, but I have no idea what the best way to remove the oldvarnish is! Would it suffice to simply scrape it with something like arazor blade, or is the use of chemical varnish remover the way to go? Thepresent finish is not really too bad, but I just don't want to make athoroughly "botched" job of it either! I really don't intend to put anystress on the rod by using it, but I wish to sort of "restore" it for display.I have built a couple of "Herter's" spinning rods some years ago,but have never worked with bamboo. Any help, tips, web-sites, orwhat-have-you that you can provide will be appreciated!! Thanks,Bill Stotz --------------------------|We ask a simple question | And this is what we wish: |"Are fishermen all liars? |Or do only liars fish?" |--------------------------| --------------------------|We ask a simple question | And this is what we wish: |"Are fishermen all liars? |Or do only liars fish?" |--------------------------| from richjez@enteract.com Wed Aug 8 21:54:39 2001 f792sdZ21634 Subject: Off subject --=====================_8481193==_.ALT I was given a kitchen cart with a butcher block top that is raw wood. I am looking at a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and wondering if it is OK to finish the butcher block top with it. The label warns about getting it in the eyes. It doesn't address the issue of using it on food surfaces. Does anyone know is it is OK to use it on the butcher bloke top? I cannot find a web site for Formbys or I would contact them. Thanks,Rich Jezioro --=====================_8481193==_.ALT I was given a kitchen cart with a butcher block top that israw wood. I am looking at a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and wonderingif it is OK to finish the butcher block top with it. The label warnsabout getting it in the eyes. It doesn't address the issue of using it onfood surfaces. Does anyone know is it is OK to use it on the butcher bloke top? I cannotfind a web site for Formbys or I would contact them. Thanks,Rich Jezioro --=====================_8481193==_.ALT-- from ajthramer@hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 21:59:58 2001 f792xvZ21866 Wed, 8 Aug 2001 19:59:49 -0700 Thu, 09 Aug 2001 02:59:48 GMT Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation FILETIME=[5A5A5750:01C1207F] Would an orthodontist have itty bitty rubber bands? Surely we have one on this diverse group.A.J. From: "Tim Wilhelm" Subject: Re: Temporary guide installationDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:53:09 - 0400 You might find latex tubing at a medical supply store near you. Also I didsome searching on the net for tubing and I found out it is commonly used onspearguns by scuba divers. I haven't checked any of the local dive shopsyet but here is a link to a supply house on the net.http://www.reefscuba.com/surgical_tubing.htm Tim ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:34 AMSubject: Re: Temporary guide installation Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from saweiss@flash.net Wed Aug 8 22:08:23 2001 f7938MZ22273 f7938LX28108 Subject: Re: Varnish Question Organization: Prodigy Internet I think used car salesmen and politicians use tongue oil. The label on thecan of stuff I use says "Tung Oil" :>)Steve you could just use tongue oil on it until you get back and then varnish.Ihave done this and it worked just fine. Rob Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: jmpio@nhbm.com Subject: RE: Varnish QuestionDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:33:14 -0600 I don't know what other list members will think of this practice, but itisone I developed from woodworking. When using polyurethane varnishes,including spar polys, the normal extended finishing schedule (coat, dry24hours, steel wool, coat, dry 24 hours, steel wool, coat, etc.) isnecessarybecause of the nature of the poly varnishes. You need to steel wool orsandto create mechanical bonding between coats, and you can't steel wool orsanduntil the prior coat has cured. You can put on multiple coats, however,ifyou don't allow the prior coat to cure. Many of the new varnishes willturnquite tacky within 10-15 minutes, and be relatively stable within an houroreven less (Minwax Helmsman has this property). You could put on severalcoats in one evening. The downside is that these coats will not look allthat good, and you will end up sanding quite a bit of them off when itcomestime to put a real finish on. But in the meantime you can put 3 or 4coatsof varnish on to protect the rod. If you can then put the rod in a nicewarm, dry place until Friday, those coats will be cured enough to use bythen. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for a fishing trip that isscheduled for next Friday (Aug. 17). The rod was finished being wrappedlast night and now it is ready for varnishing. The plan was to varnishtherod this week and let it cure during the next week. Well that was theplanuntil this morning. The fellow that I was going with asked me to changethefishing date to this Friday the 10th. Now here is the dilemma andquestion evening let that cure to protect the rod and the wraps and use the newrodon Friday? Then after the trip put the remaining coats of varnish on therod. The instructions for the varnish stated to redcoat within 24 hrs ofapplication. But that wouldn't be totally possible to do because of thetime frame that I am working on. So fire away and let me know whateveryonethinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from shane_person@telus.net Wed Aug 8 23:40:45 2001 f794eiZ24158 0600 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Allen Thramer wrote: Would an orthodontist have itty bitty rubber bands? Surely we have one onthis diverse group.A.J. No, I am not an orthodontist, but thanks to my kids, I have supportedone stores and they are available in different strengths. My choice would be to use "O" rings as Don Schneider suggested. You canbuythese in small packages of assorted sizes. I think they would bestrongerthan the orthodontic elastics, and more convenient due to their"roll-ability" Shane from rodwrapp@swbell.net Thu Aug 9 00:51:41 2001 f795peZ25588 (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.1 (built May 7 2001)) Subject: Wrapping tip... This is a multi-part message in MIME format. This is for all you guys that dont like to use color preserver. I have been justwrapping the main wrap and then put 1 coat of Spar on wrap, then the nextday I do my trim bands and apply 811 color preserver and I think everythingturns out great, because you get to keep the orginal color of trim bands andget the transparent look of the guides.. Thanks Dave This is for all you guys that dont like to put 1 coat of Spar on wrap, then the next day I do my trim bands and apply 811color preserver and I think everything turns out great, because you get to keepthe orginal color of trim bands and get the transparent look of the from Lazybee45@aol.com Thu Aug 9 05:09:19 2001 f79A9IZ29019 Subject: Fish Pens Well, well. During a recent excursion to the local Wally world (That is Wal- Mart for those of you in Rio-Palm Beach) I chanced upon (on the "Back to school" kiosks) a display of PENS in the shape of FISH! How Cool! I looked carefully and there are several styles, Including Striped Bass, Mako Shark,MArlin, golden Trout and Rainbow Trout and I don't know what else. Rush right out and hand the Walton family $3.97 ea for these lovely gift run out of ink in a few days" so not worth the $4, but i can dream! I would rather spend $4 on something for fishing itself or for my bicycle!mark (wonko the sane) from horsesho@ptd.net Thu Aug 9 05:33:31 2001 f79AXUZ29601 sender ) Subject: Re: Refinishing Surf Rod Hi Bill, I find the best way to remove old varnish is with a chemical stripper. Ihave done around 100 rods and have never had a problem. I like liguidstrippers asopposed to gel type strippers.The brand names doesn't matter but again Ilike theones that are final washed with mineral spirits (paint thinner) as opposed towater.Brush a coat on in one direction, wait a few , wipe off and repeat untilalltraces are removed, final wipe down W/ paint thinner. Do not go near anywriting orlabels. Remove the varnish around these by scraping. Marty Bill Stotz wrote: I have come into possession of an old bamboo "Montague" surf rod.The rod windings are in black, and I am sure that Montague never usedblackon theirrods! Apparently somebody re-did them at some time. (And not too well,either!) I have some deep red and some maroon thread (nylon) that wasgiven tome by my late uncle, who worked at the Montague Rod Shop for manyyears. Iwould like to re-do all of the windings and maybe even refinish the varnishwork on the rod, but I have no idea what the best way to remove the oldvarnish is! Would it suffice to simply scrape it with something like arazor blade, or is the use of chemical varnish remover the way to go? Thepresent finish is not really too bad, but I just don't want to make athoroughly "botched" job of it either! I really don't intend to put anystress on the rod by using it, but I wish to sort of "restore" it for display.I have built a couple of "Herter's" spinning rods some years ago,but have never worked with bamboo. Any help, tips, web-sites, orwhat-have-you that you can provide will be appreciated!! Thanks,Bill Stotz --------------------------|We ask a simple question |And this is what we wish: |"Are fishermen all liars? |Or do only liars fish?" |--------------------------| --------------------------|We ask a simple question |And this is what we wish: |"Are fishermen all liars? |Or do only liars fish?" |--------------------------| from flytyr@southshore.com Thu Aug 9 07:35:09 2001 f79CZ8Z01444 f79CZ8b25369 Subject: Re: Temporary guide installation Allan,I get mine from a dentist friend. The problem is the smallest ones I can getaretoo big for the tips. I have to twist them double to get them tight enough tohold the guide. That gets hairy on a "skinny"tip section. near the very tip. The 1/16 surgical tube works much betterTony FlyTyr@southshore.com Allen Thramer wrote: Would an orthodontist have itty bitty rubber bands? Surely we have one onthis diverse group.A.J. From: "Tim Wilhelm" Subject: Re: Temporary guide installationDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 15:53:09 - 0400 You might find latex tubing at a medical supply store near you. Also I didsome searching on the net for tubing and I found out it is commonly usedonspearguns by scuba divers. I haven't checked any of the local dive shopsyet but here is a link to a supply house on the net.http://www.reefscuba.com/surgical_tubing.htm Tim ----- Original Message -----From: "Tony Spezio" Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 11:34 AMSubject: Re: Temporary guide installation Ed,I use those too. On the tips I have to twist themdouble to make them smaller. What was better wassurgical tube. I had some with a 1/16 hole in itthat I cut the bands off of it. It is all gone nowand I can't find any more. If someone out thereknows where I can get some I would be interested.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Ed Riddle wrote: FYI: For temporary guide placement and holdingguides in place during wrapping, I use littlecircular rubber-bands 3/16" in diameter. Ifound these in the back of a drawer and rememberthat they were used by my son in associationwith his teeth-braces/retainer a loooong timeago. They're called "orthodontic elastics". Ed _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from drinkr@voicenet.com Thu Aug 9 07:52:39 2001 f79CqcZ01903 (209.71.51.74) Subject: RE: Off subject This is a multi-part message in MIME format. RichI would use either mineral oil or food safe rubbing oil sold by WoodcraftSupply or any other wood craft catalogue.D.Rinker-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 8:12 PM Subject: Off subject I was given a kitchen cart with a butcher block top that is raw wood. I amlooking at a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish and wondering if it is OK tofinish the butcher block top with it. The label warns about getting it inthe eyes. It doesn't address the issue of using it on food surfaces. Does anyone know is it is OK to use it on the butcher bloke top? I cannotfind a web site for Formbys or I would contact them. Thanks,Rich Jezioro would use either mineral oil or food safe rubbing oil sold by Woodcraft = or any other wood craft catalogue.D.Rinker JezioroSent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 8:12 = subjectI was given a kitchencart = butcher block top that is raw wood. I am looking at a can of Formby's = Finish and wondering if it is OK to finish the butcher block top with = label warns about getting it in the eyes. It doesn't address the issue = using it on food surfaces.Does anyone know is it is OK to use = the butcher bloke top? I cannot find a web site for Formbys or I would = them.Thanks,Rich =Jezioro from wendt@kingcrab.nrl.navy.mil Thu Aug 9 09:40:34 2001 f79EeXZ10214 Subject: RE: Varnish Question At 09:57 PM 8/8/2001 +0000, you wrote:you could just use tongue oil on it until you get back and then varnish. I have done this and it worked just fine.^^^^^^^Rob, Wouldn't that result in many splinters in your mouth? ;^} Mark Rob Robert ClarkeCatherine Creek Rodscathcreek@hotmail.comhttp://ccr_2.tripod.com/bamboo/index.html From: jmpio@nhbm.com Subject: RE: Varnish QuestionDate: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:33:14 -0600 I don't know what other list members will think of this practice, but it isone I developed from woodworking. When using polyurethane varnishes,including spar polys, the normal extended finishing schedule (coat, dry 24hours, steel wool, coat, dry 24 hours, steel wool, coat, etc.) is necessarybecause of the nature of the poly varnishes. You need to steel wool orsandto create mechanical bonding between coats, and you can't steel wool orsanduntil the prior coat has cured. You can put on multiple coats, however, ifyou don't allow the prior coat to cure. Many of the new varnishes will turnquite tacky within 10-15 minutes, and be relatively stable within an houroreven less (Minwax Helmsman has this property). You could put on severalcoats in one evening. The downside is that these coats will not look allthat good, and you will end up sanding quite a bit of them off when itcomestime to put a real finish on. But in the meantime you can put 3 or 4 coatsof varnish on to protect the rod. If you can then put the rod in a nicewarm, dry place until Friday, those coats will be cured enough to use bythen. Good luck. -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:21 AM Subject: Varnish Question To all, Currently I have a rod that I am building for a fishing trip that isscheduled for next Friday (Aug. 17). The rod was finished being wrappedlast night and now it is ready for varnishing. The plan was to varnish therod this week and let it cure during the next week. Well that was the planuntil this morning. The fellow that I was going with asked me to changethefishing date to this Friday the 10th. Now here is the dilemma and question evening let that cure to protect the rod and the wraps and use the newrodon Friday? Then after the trip put the remaining coats of varnish on therod. The instructions for the varnish stated to redcoat within 24 hrs ofapplication. But that wouldn't be totally possible to do because of thetime frame that I am working on. So fire away and let me know whateveryonethinks. Robert H.Home email: b2g@jps.net Work email: rholder@smurfit.com _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp from jczimny@dol.net Thu Aug 9 10:30:07 2001 f79FU6Z12528