Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 8:12 PM Subject: Re: Blanks Please include video of this technique on the Power Fibers site, and/or onthe CD. Should be very informative, not to mention entertaining. M-D From: "Bob Maulucci" Oh man, my secret technique is out! I wrap the blank by putting a bobbin in my mouth and spinning on my head. Basically you could make a better blank while break dancing blindfolded even if you are new to rodmaking. from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Fri Dec 14 19:23:37 2001 fBF1Nbt07400 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:23:37 -0600 fBF1NSu12023 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:23:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Blanks SET RODMAKERS NO GERHKE BobFly Suppliesaflyshop.com On Fri, 14 Dec 2001, Paul Hamm wrote: Hello, I am new to cane, and thought for my first rod I wouldbuild from a blank. The prices are a little more thanI anticipated. I did find one in my price range made input as to the quality of these blanks. Thank you, Paul __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com from bob@downandacross.com Fri Dec 14 19:39:42 2001 fBF1dft08979 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:39:41 -0600 Subject: RE: Blanks M-D:Wait til you see the velour sweat suit, Adidas, and the Kangol hat. Bob -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Blanks Please include video of this technique on the Power Fibers site, and/or onthe CD. Should be very informative, not to mention entertaining. M-D Oh man, my secret technique is out! I wrap the blank by putting a bobbin in my mouth and spinning on my head. Basically you could make a better blank while break dancing blindfolded even if you are new to rodmaking. from jvb@sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 14 19:56:53 2001 fBF1urt11510 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:56:53 -0600 fBF1unO199776 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:56:49 -0500 Subject: First Rod Question Well I finally assembled all the tools I need to complete my first rod. =I am about to get started and have been practicing splitting, filing, =straightening, flattening nodes and rough planing. I do have one =question. When flattening nodes I keep running into a problem with =getting them completely flat. As a result when I am rough planing they =don't always fit tightly against the form. Although I have been able to =still get a nice 60 degree angle I'm concerned this may lead to problems =down the road. I don't want to make too many mistakes when I begin =working on a good piece of cane. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Jim started and have been practicing splitting, filing, straightening, = nodes I keep running into a problem with getting them completely = a result when I am rough planing they don't always fit tightly against = help.Jim from edriddle@mindspring.com Fri Dec 14 19:58:22 2001 fBF1wLt11904 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:58:21 -0600 helo=oemcomputer) id 16F45k-00059k-00 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:58:20 -0500 Subject: Re: Blanks Good shot!.....errr, I mean...., Great Cast Bob!!!Ed ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Blanks SET RODMAKERS NO GERHKE BobFly Suppliesaflyshop.com On Fri, 14 Dec 2001, Paul Hamm wrote: Hello, I am new to cane, and thought for my first rod I wouldbuild from a blank. The prices are a little more thanI anticipated. I did find one in my price range made input as to the quality of these blanks. Thank you, Paul __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com from rodwrapp@swbell.net Fri Dec 14 20:05:52 2001 fBF25qt12641 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:05:52 -0600 (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.1 (built May 7 2001)) Subject: Re: Blanks rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Hal Bacon has some real nice blanks also.. Thanks Davehttp://www.geocities.com/davesrods ----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Blanks Paul, If you are going to buy a blank - try A.J. Thramer or Mark Ruhe. These two guys are good. And there are several more on the list that make top notchquality blanks. Cheers, Alberta Al P.S. no financial interest blah blah - I just know that there stuff is good. -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 2:05 PM Subject: Re: Blanks Paul,A good question! Try a search in rodmakers archives. I think you willfind more information than you need. Jim "Paul Hamm" 12/14/01 12:24PM >>> Hello, I am new to cane, and thought for my first rod I wouldbuild from a blank. The prices are a little more thanI anticipated. I did find one in my price range made input as to the quality of these blanks. Thank you, Paul __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com from jojo@ipa.net Fri Dec 14 20:38:06 2001 fBF2c5t17108 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:38:05 -0600 helo=default) id 16F4iC-0000zl-00 for RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.edu; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:38:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Blanks Great idea, Larry! I'd be more than happy to contribute to a travel fund soBob could come to Arkansas and demonstrate the technique for us at SRG.Biondo, you keeping tabs on the money for this, too? M-D Come on MD... give the folks that organize the Gatherings a break. You know they are always looking for volunteers to put on demos and workshops. Ithink a live demonstration is in order! Larry Blan Please include video of this technique on the Power Fibers site, and/or on the CD. Should be very informative, not to mention entertaining. M-D From: "Bob Maulucci" Oh man, my secret technique is out! I wrap the blank by putting a bobbin in my mouth and spinning on my head. Basically you could make a better blank while break dancing blindfolded even if you are new to rodmaking. from jojo@ipa.net Fri Dec 14 20:57:14 2001 fBF2vDt19177 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:57:13 -0600 helo=default) id 16F50i-0002aj-00 for RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.edu; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:57:12 -0500 Subject: Re: First Rod Question You'll get as many answers as there are people who will respond (an =opinionated lot, we are), but tell us what technique you're using to = M-D Well I finally assembled all the tools I need to complete my first =rod. I am about to get started and have been practicing splitting, =filing, straightening, flattening nodes and rough planing. I do have =one question. When flattening nodes I keep running into a problem with =getting them completely flat. As a result when I am rough planing they =don't always fit tightly against the form. Although I have been able to =still get a nice 60 degree angle I'm concerned this may lead to problems =down the road. I don't want to make too many mistakes when I begin =working on a good piece of cane. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Jim You'll get as many = are people who will respond (an opinionated lot, we are), but tell us = technique you're using to flatten the nodes now. M-D Jim and = Brandt finally assembled all the tools I need to complete my first = still get a nice 60 degree angle I'm concerned this may lead to = help.Jim from cw@vanion.com Fri Dec 14 21:15:52 2001 fBF3Fpt20510 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:15:51 -0600 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:20:28 -0700 Subject: Ray Ashley Almost got a rod on ebay, but lost at the last minute. However found out =it was made by Ray Ashley from Endicott NY. He'd been making rods since =the fourties. Thought I'd see if anyone knew a little more about his =work. The rod was a nicely appointed 8'2" 2/2 with different taper tips, =NS ferrules, and a nice dn-sl seat with blk plastic insert. Any imfo =appreciated. Thanks, Chad Almost got a rod on ebay, but lost= minute. However found out it was made by Ray Ashley from Endicott NY. = making rods since the fourties. Thought I'd see if anyone knew a little = about his work. The rod was a nicely appointed 8'2" 2/2 with = taper tips, NS ferrules, and a nice dn-sl seat with blk plastic insert. = appreciated. Thanks, Chad from jojo@ipa.net Fri Dec 14 21:23:17 2001 fBF3NHt20742 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:23:17 -0600 helo=default) id 16F5Pv-0007Rl-00 for RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.edu; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:23:17 -0500 Subject: Another Virus Don't know that this came through the List, for sure, but it is theMagistr/B It came from an e-mail lsalvador@sprint.ca I'll check and see ifhe is on the List, or not. While we're on the subject of virii, I came across a viral program calledPanda from Spain. Seems to work quite well, much faster than either Nortonor McAfee, updates daily automatically, and so far nothing has gotten pastit, which is more than I can say for either of the two others. I have theTitanium version.www.pandasoftware.com As you might surmise, I own this company, so have a heavily vested interest.;o) M-D from lblan@provide.net Fri Dec 14 21:53:23 2001 fBF3rMt21345 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:53:22 -0600 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:53:21 -0500 Subject: RE: Another Virus Just happened to do a "Review" yesterday. No one with that email as of then. Another AV program that I really like is E Trust by Computer Associates.This is the commercial replacement for the program they used to offer freeof charge. They let registered users of the free version buy this one*cheap*. I've not been affected by any of the virii that have hit the list,although some of this is due to my ISP filtering on the server now. Ireceive an update almost every day, I have had as many as three in one day.Updates install seamlessly, no reboot required. It is the most unobtrusiveAV program I've used to date (and I have registered versions of McAfee andNorton being used for coasters). Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:23 PM Subject: Another Virus Don't know that this came through the List, for sure, but it is theMagistr/B It came from an e-mail lsalvador@sprint.ca I'll check and see ifhe is on the List, or not. While we're on the subject of virii, I came across a viral program calledPanda from Spain. Seems to work quite well, much faster than eitherNortonor McAfee, updates daily automatically, and so far nothing has gotten pastit, which is more than I can say for either of the two others. I have theTitanium version.www.pandasoftware.com As you might surmise, I own this company, so have a heavilyvested interest.;o) M-D from ajthramer@hotmail.com Fri Dec 14 22:02:11 2001 fBF42Bt21700 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:02:11 -0600 Fri, 14 Dec 2001 20:01:57 -0800 Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:01:57 GMT Subject: Fuzzies Pt2 FILETIME=[3DB76720:01C1851D] I have found that rolling the fuzzies off it works much better if I wear a pair of leather work gloves, the rough out type. It might be something peculiar to the way I make the strips , or , maybe not.A.J. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer athttp://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. from caneman@clnk.com Fri Dec 14 22:24:40 2001 fBF4Odt22189 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:24:40 -0600 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Fuzzies Pt2 Allen,It may be that I've never worn gloves so after years of bamboo cuts andsplinters, maybe my hands are about the same texure as roughout gloves!*S*Something peculiar about the way you make strips??? Face it, we makerods!!! There's something a little peculiar about ALL of us!Oh, I see, you were talking about technique! Sorry! :^) Later,Bob R.L. Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Cane Flyrodshttp://www.caneflyrod.com- ---- Original Message ----- Subject: Fuzzies Pt2 I have found that rolling the fuzzies off it works much better if I wear apair of leather work gloves, the rough out type. It might be somethingpeculiar to the way I make the strips , or , maybe not.A.J. _________________________________________________________________Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. from rextutor@yahoo.com Fri Dec 14 22:32:51 2001 fBF4Wot22509 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:32:50 -0600 14 Dec 2001 20:32:49 PST Subject: RE: Thread tensioners Rodmakers Mail I have a tensioner just like that - Dilled a holesmaller than the support post , with a firm push andepoxy glue. --- Darrin Curtis wrote: No financial interest. I found thread tensioners the address below. The question I have is, how doyou connect the tensionerto anything. They do not have a normal screw mount.If anyone has a good http://www.wagnerrods.com/tools.html Darrin Curtis __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Dec 14 22:39:02 2001 fBF4d1t22763 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:39:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I agree with this. The bench plane angle of attack and chip breaker setup is a lot better for planing bamboo. I do think you could do the whole job with one provided you have a means of holding the strip in place that wasn't too much hassle when it came to flipping one side to the other AND the plane is tuned for the job as Darrell wrote ie. the frog needs to be set so the mouth has a very fine opening just as you need on a block plane and is achieved with the adjustable throat.The iron also keeps it's edge a lot longer when used at a higher angle as well. Tony At 07:21 PM 12/14/01 -0500, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for final planing. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot with preventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Fri Dec 14 22:39:03 2001 fBF4d1t22764 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:39:02 -0600 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.e" Subject: RE: Blanks Have you guys ever pulled a sewing machine bobbin mechanism apart to see how one works?Who ever devised it was a genius but what was he on when he did it? Tony At 07:41 PM 12/14/01 -0500, Bob Maulucci wrote: Oh man, my secret technique is out! I wrap the blank by putting a bobbin inmy mouth and spinning on my head. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:16 PM Subject: Re: Blanks Basically you could make a better blank while break dancing blindfolded evenif you are new to rodmaking. /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from tjtrodmaker@yahoo.com Fri Dec 14 23:14:46 2001 fBF5Ejt23745 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:14:45 -0600 Dec 2001 21:14:44 PST Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu i was just telling jim bureau the other day that ablock plane with a bench plane blade setup is what weneed for the job. maybe someone could promote alie-nielsen exec to building bamboo rods. timothy --- Tony Young wrote: I agree with this. The bench plane angle of attackand chip breaker setup is a lot better for planing bamboo. I do think youcould do the whole job with one provided you have a means of holding thestrip in place that wasn't too much hassle when it came to flipping oneside to the other AND the plane is tuned for the job as Darrell wrote ie.the frog needs to be set so the mouth has a very fine opening just as youneed on a block plane and is achieved with the adjustable throat.The iron also keeps it's edge a lot longer when usedat a higher angle as well. Tony At 07:21 PM 12/14/01 -0500, DNHayashida@aol.comwrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for final planing. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot with preventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure outhow to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying toscrounge up the 50 cents." Dave Gingery /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com from b2g@jps.net Fri Dec 14 23:53:06 2001 fBF5r5t24364 for ; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:53:05 -0600 helo=default) id 16F7ku-0000OL-00; Fri, 14 Dec 2001 21:53:04 -0800 Subject: RE: First Rod Questions I'd be more inclined to suggest a polyurethane glue, i.e, Gorilla Glue, ProBond II, etc. What do some of you guys who use this think? Does hehave enough working time to bind and straighten, considering this is his first rod? My answer to this is yes. My first rod was built using this glue and Ididn't have any trouble gluing and straightening before the glue started toset. But of course I used a binder also. I did try a practice run tryingto bind a rod by hand and that was all it took. I pulled the string off andI went looking in the garage for the hardware I need to build a binder. Thecost of building my Garrison binder top the scale of a whopping $10 for onepulley, fender washers, and a spring. Robert H. from KyleDruey@aol.com Sat Dec 15 00:25:47 2001 fBF6Pkt25105 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 00:25:47 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:25:39 - Subject: Mid Section I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the butt section makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... but what about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips from the lower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Is this a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of this rod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin' jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, took me one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for the last strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips to figure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after each pass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensions were all within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough to move on to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 00:47:08 2001 fBF6l7t25616 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 00:47:07 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:45:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Fuzzies Pt 1or 2 Fuzzies? Am I missing something here? Are you referring to the cane having Fuzzies?At least that's what I'm getting out of the discussion.:)I get that right up until I'm on target with the scraping.But when it comes out of the form no fuzzies that I can see.Of course I'm murder on forms and I scrap till I get metal.LOLI could be wrong, but fuzzies is an indication to me I'm not at the form = Should I not be going down that far?I get really sharp corners. Any opinions, do you guys do it different?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} Are you referring to the cane having Fuzzies?At least that's what I'm getting out of the discussion.:) scraping.But when it comes out of the form no fuzzies that I can see. metal.LOLI could be wrong, but fuzzies is an indication to me I'm not at the = different?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Dec 15 02:02:57 2001 fBF82tt26356 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 02:02:55 - rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I mentioned this to Thom about a year ago and he didn't seem very interested. I guess he knows the interest and possible number of planes he could sell and decided it's not worth the hassle. He more or less told me altering the sharpening angle is all I need to do and go away, politely of course [:-)] In the mean time, I have a prototype of exactly what I think is needed already made and it works great. It's a bit dodgy looking so I wont show it yet but if I can make it look a bit nicer and get one little problem solved I'll let you know about how it all goes. Tony At 09:14 PM 12/14/01 -0800, timothy troester wrote: i was just telling jim bureau the other day that ablock plane with a bench plane blade setup is what weneed for the job. maybe someone could promote alie-nielsen exec to building bamboo rods. timothy --- Tony Young wrote: I agree with this. The bench plane angle of attackand chip breaker setupis a lot better for planing bamboo. I do think youcould do the whole jobwith one provided you have a means of holding thestrip in place thatwasn't too much hassle when it came to flipping oneside to the other ANDthe plane is tuned for the job as Darrell wrote ie.the frog needs to beset so the mouth has a very fine opening just as youneed on a block planeand is achieved with the adjustable throat.The iron also keeps it's edge a lot longer when usedat a higher angle as well. Tony At 07:21 PM 12/14/01 -0500, DNHayashida@aol.comwrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for final planing. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot with preventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure outhow to do a $50.00project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying toscrounge up the 50 cents." Dave Gingery /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Dec 15 02:47:10 2001 fBF8l8t26821 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 02:47:09 - Subject: Speaking of snake bites in the land down under...... Don't do this at home kiddies... http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,3441448%5E1702,00.html /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sat Dec 15 03:09:30 2001 fBF99Tt27231 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:09:29 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:09:24 -0800 Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:09:23 GMT Subject: Re: Fuzzies Pt 1or 2 FILETIME=[30938BC0:01C18548] One word - bevelerA.J. From: "Tony Miller" Subject: Re: Fuzzies Pt 1or 2Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:48:03 -0500 Fuzzies? Am I missing something here?Seriously, what are you guys referring too?Are you referring to the cane having Fuzzies?At least that's what I'm getting out of the discussion.:)I get that right up until I'm on target with the scraping.But when it comes out of the form no fuzzies that I can see.Of course I'm murder on forms and I scrap till I get metal.LOLI could be wrong, but fuzzies is an indication to me I'm not at the form line.Should I not be going down that far?I get really sharp corners. Any opinions, do you guys do it different?Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html _________________________________________________________________Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sat Dec 15 03:12:13 2001 fBF9CCt27461 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 03:12:12 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 01:12:06 -0800 Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:12:06 GMT rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Bench Planes continued FILETIME=[919846E0:01C18548] There is already a builder who has a small custom plane maker building one as we speak. I will let you know when it is completed. And whether the planemaker will build more.A.J. From: timothy troester rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Bench Planes continued i was just telling jim bureau the other day that ablock plane with a bench plane blade setup is what weneed for the job. maybe someone could promote alie-nielsen exec to building bamboo rods. timothy --- Tony Young wrote: I agree with this. The bench plane angle of attackand chip breaker setupis a lot better for planing bamboo. I do think youcould do the whole jobwith one provided you have a means of holding thestrip in place thatwasn't too much hassle when it came to flipping oneside to the other ANDthe plane is tuned for the job as Darrell wrote ie.the frog needs to beset so the mouth has a very fine opening just as youneed on a block planeand is achieved with the adjustable throat.The iron also keeps it's edge a lot longer when usedat a higher angle as well. Tony At 07:21 PM 12/14/01 -0500, DNHayashida@aol.comwrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for final planing. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot with preventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida /*************************************************************************/ AV Young Visit my web site at:www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure outhow to do a $50.00project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying toscrounge up the 50 cents." Dave Gingery /*************************************************************************/ ====="Gooda' mornin', mister bear!" ...Ride, boldly ride,"The shade replied, -"If you seek for Eldorado!" -- E.A.Poe __________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all ofyour unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.comor bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 04:02:27 2001 fBFA2Ot28284 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:02:25 - fBFA2It56858; Subject: Re: fuzzy edges My best suggestion is get your plane blades sharper and don't scrape the =last thousandths - plane it! Peter My best suggestion is get your plane = and don't scrape the last thousandths - plane it! Peter from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 04:06:49 2001 fBFA6kt28497 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:06:46 - fBFA6Pt57484; Subject: Re: Blanks Oh no, no, please no! Peter from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 04:30:46 2001 fBFAUit29079 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:30:44 - Subject: Re: First Rod Questions Martin It occurs to me that if that people building their first rods are reallyworried about binding time, probably the most logical thing would be to usea slower glue at first; if you use a binder and run into some sort of faecalstorm, you've got enough to worry about without having the blank glued tothe the binder and to two separate bits of string, one of which has no end,and all of which are bonded to your gloves. Ask me, as they say, how I know that! Peter from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 04:36:20 2001 fBFAaIt29444 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:36:19 - fBFAa4561932; Subject: Re: First Rod Questions I use a big G-clamp on the back of the bench, which holds two bits of woodseparated by two strips of felt; I run the thread between the pieces offelt, and then wrap the rod. You can vary the tension as much as you like.The whole process is a pain in the arse! A binder is better! Peter from "Marty D. aka \"none" Sat Dec 15 05:01:21 2001 fBFB1Lt29952 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:01:21 - (uvscan: v4.1.60/v4175. . Clean. Processed in 1.999297 secs); 15 Dec 200111:01:20 -0000 sender ) Subject: Re: Mid Section Use 6 strips from the butt. More power fibers and you will have more ofthesestrips to pick from. Marty KyleDruey@aol.com wrote: I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the buttsection makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... butwhat about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips fromthelower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, tookme one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for thelast strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips tofigure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after eachpass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensionswereall within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough tomoveon to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from "Marty D. aka \"none" Sat Dec 15 05:23:46 2001 fBFBNjt00434 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:23:45 - (uvscan: v4.1.60/v4175. . Clean. Processed in 1.098654 secs); 15 Dec 200111:23:45 -0000 sender ) Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25 After years of trying different planes I finally found the set up Ilike. I use a Lie-Nielson 9 1/2 (LN91/2) with a .002" grooved sole forgetting the strips within .002" off the form. I finish with aLie-Nielson 103 Special (LN103SP). This is a very small plane with afixed throat setting with interchangable throat plates to change thesetting (so I guess it's not really fixed). I use it to make the lastfew swipes on each strip. This set up save the form and blades fromnicks. This plane is uncataloged and has to be asked for. George Mauertold me about it. Now what do I do with the Stanely 9 1/2 and half dozenHock blades? Marty DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane onebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00).Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it isperfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, andmoving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for finalplaning. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 91/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called atote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane islevel or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes(45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the blockplanes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot withpreventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay,this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nodto the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (youget less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful,but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25 After years of trying different planes I finally found the set up I like.I use a Lie-Nielson 9 1/2 (LN91/2) with a .002" grooved sole for gettingthe strips within .002" off the form. I finish with a Lie-Nielson 103 Special(LN103SP). This is a very small plane with a fixed throat setting withinterchangable throat plates to change the setting (so I guess it's notreally fixed). I use it to make the last few swipes on each strip. Thisset up save the form and blades from nicks. This plane is uncataloged andhas to be asked for. George Mauer told me about it. Now what do I do withthe Stanely 9 1/2 and half dozen Hock blades? MartyDNHayashida@aol.com wrote:Allowme a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for$50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wisethere is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sandingin a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrowthe throat, I tested it for final planing. It worksgreat!Thesmaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2,the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allowsa lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. Ireally believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lotbetter for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breakermoved close to the edge helps a lot with preventinglifts.Afterall my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is whatI recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), asize 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of themwith a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary.How's that for busting a Garrison- ism?DarrylHayashida --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25-- from carstenjorgensen@mail.dk Sat Dec 15 08:11:58 2001 fBFEBut02173 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:11:56 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued the finish planing andthe block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few =forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure =grip of the stripwhen planing, have a look at http://home11.inet.tele.dk/cmj/upload1.htm All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with =the other,do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will be =revealed to Yourdoubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used for finish =planing. Pics are somewhat big, so will take some time to download, but You =will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen the benchplane for the finish planing andthe block plane for the rought stuff. = eventually, save a few forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for = how to have a secure grip of the stripwhen planing, have a look =at http://home11.inet.te=le.dk/cmj/upload1.htm All of You rodmakers the plane with = hold the strip with the other,do have a look and behold, a new and = of planing will be revealed to Yourdoubting eyes. There is even a pic of = benchplane - used for finish planing. Pics are somewhat big, so will take = download, but You will be rewarded. regards, jorgensen from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 08:30:28 2001 fBFEURt04148 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:30:27 -0600 0000 Subject: Re: Another Virus Jojo This one came up on my wif's e-mail but not one mine. She is not on thelist Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jojo@ipa.net Sat Dec 15 08:56:18 2001 fBFEuHt04777 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:56:17 - helo=default) id 16FGES-0003Rn-00 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:56:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten, You're preaching to the great unwashed. I had the idea, at one time, to usea toggle clamp to hold the strips, but opted instead to ascend to theloftier metaphysical plane (no pun intended) of the Morgan Hand Mill and themilling machine, leaving behind the trappings of the amateur rodmakers --the plane and the form. (Sorry, I couldn't resist taking a TA shot of moraland mechanical superiority.) M-D finish planing and the block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually,save a few forlorn souls?Well, it doesn't matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip ofthe strip when planing, have a look at All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with theother, do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will berevealed to Your doubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used download, but You will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 09:04:04 2001 fBFF43t05065 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:04:03 - 0000 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten and Jojo I too thought of using a toiggle clamp, but I find that a 1" springclamp is just as good. Different strokes for different folks.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jojo@ipa.net Sat Dec 15 09:14:07 2001 fBFFE6t05400 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:14:06 -0600 helo=default) id 16FGVp-0002gf-00 for RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.edu; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:14:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I do still have forms, by the way, which are elevated 1" above the workbench. A spring clamp would do as well on them, with less fuss. Carsten andRalph, how much extra length do you guys leave on your strips to account forthe clamping, and for the plane length. Are you holding the strip by hand,starting to plane, getting past the clamping point, then clamping, or . . .? M-D Carsten and Jojo I too thought of using a toiggle clamp, but I find that a 1" springclamp is just as good. Different strokes for different folks.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 09:22:14 2001 fBFFMEt05783 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:22:14 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:20:58 -0500 Subject: Re:Fuzzies Pt 1or 2 Please explain, you got me curious.I'd be very interested in any suggestions.I don't own any type of beveler or mill at the moment.But I've always wondered if either would be good investment. Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} Allen Please explain, you got me curious. I don't own any type of beveler or mill at the moment. investment.thanks Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from atlasc1@earthlink.net Sat Dec 15 09:36:25 2001 fBFFaPt06271 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:36:25 - ([209.178.134.163] helo=g2t8c9) id 16FGrL-00040I-00; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:36:20 -0800 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued M-D, I looked at the Morgan HandMill and I thought you could hook that sucker upto a worm gear and motor and then go get some coffee while it makes thestrips for you. Shoot you might take a look at JW one pass mill and youreally would ascend to the highest level of rodmaking nirvana and become aZen master of Tonkin manipulation through advanced switch activation. I am waiting for the day that JW makes a mill that is voice activated. Justimagine you simply say "Para 15" and the form is set and the cutters go towork. Adam Vigil----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten, You're preaching to the great unwashed. I had the idea, at one time, to use a toggle clamp to hold the strips, but opted instead to ascend to theloftier metaphysical plane (no pun intended) of the Morgan Hand Mill and the milling machine, leaving behind the trappings of the amateur rodmakers --the plane and the form. (Sorry, I couldn't resist taking a TA shot of moral and mechanical superiority.) M-D From: Carsten Jorgensen finish planing and the block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few forlorn souls?Well, it doesn't matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip of the strip when planing, have a look at All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with theother, do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will berevealed to Your doubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used download, but You will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 09:38:23 2001 fBFFcNt06511 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:38:23 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:37:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Snake bites in the land down TonyI was watching a show the other day and A guy was saying his job was =treating snake bites.I know, go figure? LOL But any way he said 98% of people he treats are =males betweenthe ages of 16 and 25 that get bit on the hands.He said he had no real evidence of his theory ,but he thinks it's =because they were trying to catch the snakes. LOL www.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} Tony treating snake bites. treats are males betweenthe ages of 16 and 25 that get bit on the hands.He said he had no real evidence of his theory ,but he thinks it's = they were trying to catch the snakes. LOL www.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 10:09:32 2001 fBFG9Vt07266 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:09:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued M.D. I don't leave much excess. Usually 2" at the top and 2" at theother end. I do position the clamp so that I can plane the butt endThat is, you don't leave the clamp at the butt all of the time. Move itaround.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jvswan@earthlink.net Sat Dec 15 11:28:45 2001 fBFHSit08325 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:28:44 - (209.181.151.110) User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued What about those Japanese block planes that are supposed to be pulledinstead of pushed? Don't those have a higher angle of attack? Some ofthemdon't seem to be too big, either. Jason from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 11:47:29 2001 fBFHlSt08839 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:47:28 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:46:12 -0500 Subject: Nice work!!!! I just seen for the first time a picture of Adam Vigil's Rod work.It was a very clear picture and I have a high resolution screen.Adam has given out alot of compliments on other people's work and is a =great contributor to this list. As well as giving out information =freely. Very ,very Nice work Adam! pointing out his talent to the list.I would love to put an attachment to this post, but as you all know some =peoples servers can't handle attachments. And I've been in enough hot =water lately LOL:))Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} I just seen for the first time a picture of Adam Vigil's Rod =work.It was a very clear picture and I have a high resolution =screen.Adam has given out alot of compliments on other people's work and = great contributor to this list. As well as giving out information =freely. Very ,very Nice work Adam!Adam is a very modest person, so I hope he doesn't get mad at me = pointing out his talent to the list. enough hot water lately LOL:))Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from wkifer@harborside.com Sat Dec 15 11:49:02 2001 fBFHn1t09017 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:49:01 - 0000 Subject: Skip-Email Address --=======2966493======= ascii; format=flowed Skip,Lost your email address. Would you reply so I can get it in my address book.Thanks,Wayne --=======2966493=======-- from TSmithwick@aol.com Sat Dec 15 12:05:26 2001 fBFI5Pt09501 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:05:25 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I have to admit I got interested in this after Darryl's original post. The only thing I had around to try was a 15" Stanley #5 jack plane. I was thinking this would mean I could not start planing closer than about 10" from the clamp. As soon as I got set up and picked up the tool, however, I realized that all you have to do is turn the plane at an angle to the cutting direction, and you can get very close to the clamp. This is a good practice anyway, as it results in a cleaner cut. Most craftsmen who use planes, other than us, push them at an angle. Of course, it is a problem if you groove the sole. Anyway, It seemed to me the idea of using these planes has merit. Even the old jack plane, which has an uneven sole, and was not nearly sharpened to our standards, cut untreated nodes very nicely. It's too heavy for this work, IMHO but far from useless. I guess I need to start looking around for a #2 or 3. from harms1@pa.net Sat Dec 15 12:20:49 2001 fBFIKmt09962 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:20:49 - Subject: Re: First Rod Question Jim, The node problem you are having will indeed cause problems when you glueandbind the rod. At each node there will be dips and/or rises that will havethe effect of ruining the desired taper. Nodes must be dead flat before youcomplete final planing. Depending upon the particular culm of cane itself, the split-out strips willneed both filing and heat-straightening at the nodes. Sometimes a node willbe humped, and will show a little depression on one side (sometimes on bothsides). The ridge of each node must be filed away, but don't take the nodedown much farther than just below its surface. Now, rough plane the stripdown toward a 1/4" in width, and reduce its thickness as well (taking carethat you don't go beyond the intended half-thickness of the taper). Roughplaning to smaller, "squared" proportions is advised for ease ofheat- straightening--which follows. Next, heat straighten the node by bending upward, against the hump. Thiswill cause the strip to take on a rather severe, upward (concave) curve.When cooled, then heat straighted the area(s) where the depressionsoccurred, by bending each of them downward. The enamel side of the stripshould now have become quite flat, and any remaining unevenness can befiled. As a side-note, perfect flattening of the node areas becomes increasinglyeasy the more the dimensions of a given strip are reduced. Best of luck,Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: First Rod Question Well I finally assembled all the tools I need to complete my first rod. I amabout to get started and have been practicing splitting, filing,straightening, flattening nodes and rough planing. I do have one question.When flattening nodes I keep running into a problem with getting themcompletely flat. As a result when I am rough planing they don't always fittightly against the form. Although I have been able to still get a nice 60degree angle I'm concerned this may lead to problems down the road. I don'twant to make too many mistakes when I begin working on a good piece ofcane.Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Jim from homes-sold@attbi.com Sat Dec 15 12:27:38 2001 fBFIRct10296 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:27:38 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:27:29 +0000 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Yes, you pull them.In a catalog I have from "The Japan Wordwooker" says:"Chinese style planes are unique compared to Western planes in that theblade is bedded at 60Ÿ. Since the blade is sharpened with a 30Ÿ bevel, itcan be reversed in the body to make a 90Ÿ scraper plane able to handle anyparticularly nasty grains. The blades are made from high quality toolsteel".The blades are 6mm thick tempered to Rockwell 62Ÿ-64Ÿ and the planebodieshave an adjustable throat.The Palm Plane looks of particular interest to me, 4 3/4" long with a 1 1/4"wide blade.The Smoothing Plane is 8 1/4" long with a 2" wide blade.Anybody ever use one of these?Don----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued What about those Japanese block planes that are supposed to be pulledinstead of pushed? from harms1@pa.net Sat Dec 15 12:33:49 2001 fBFIXmt10687 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:33:48 - Subject: Re: Mid Section Kyle, consideration as to strip-selection from the culm. Larger rods, yes. Thehalf-dimension for the largest part of a mid-section is usually no greaterthan the depth of the power-fibers at the half-way-point of a good culm, soyou're safe enough. On the other hand, you should have plenty of caneavailable in the butt area of the culm to take all six strips for both yourbutt and your mid sections. Having said that, there is also no good reason why you couldn't do as yousuggest--use three strips from the butt and three from the tip. The onlyconsideration here would be that node-spacing would be quite different instrips taken from the two areas of a culm. You would need to do some"jockeying" to achieve a good staggering pattern, but I imagine you couldwork that out. In all, I wouldn't worry much about the issue unless you are building alarge rod. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Mid Section I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the butt section makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... but what about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips from the lower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, took me one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for the last strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips to figure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after each pass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensions were all within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough to move on to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Dec 15 12:52:22 2001 fBFIqMt11215 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:52:22 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:52:17 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I have seen this phenomena myself. I guess rodmakers are a skeptical lot,we= tend to need corroborating testimony to start believing the experience ofon= person. Nobody believed me until Reed Curry tried out a bench plane.Darryl Hayashida carstenjorgensen@mail.dk writes: finish planing and forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a securegrip= the stripwhen planing, have a look at I have seen this phenomena myself. I guess rodmakers are a skeptical lot,we=tend to need corroborating testimony to start believing the experience ofo=ne person. Nobody believed me until Reed Curry tried out a bench plane.Darryl Hayashida In a message dated 12/15/01 6:12:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,carstenjorgens=en@mail.dk writes: benchp=lane for the finish planing andthe block plane for theroug=ht stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4tmatter, B=UT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip of the stripwhen planing, have alook at= from channer@frontier.net Sat Dec 15 13:02:18 2001 fBFJ2Ht11543 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:02:17 - Subject: Re: Mid Section Or you could either order your culms for 3 pc rods cut to 4' lengthsinstead of 6' or cut your 12' culms to 4' yourself. just a thoughtjohn WILLIAM HARMS wrote: Kyle, consideration as to strip-selection from the culm. Larger rods, yes. Thehalf-dimension for the largest part of a mid-section is usually no greaterthan the depth of the power-fibers at the half-way-point of a good culm, soyou're safe enough. On the other hand, you should have plenty of caneavailable in the butt area of the culm to take all six strips for both yourbutt and your mid sections. Having said that, there is also no good reason why you couldn't do as yousuggest--use three strips from the butt and three from the tip. The onlyconsideration here would be that node-spacing would be quite different instrips taken from the two areas of a culm. You would need to do some"jockeying" to achieve a good staggering pattern, but I imagine you couldwork that out. In all, I wouldn't worry much about the issue unless you are building alarge rod. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message -----From: Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 1:25 AMSubject: Mid Section I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the butt section makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... but what about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips from the lower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, took me one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for the last strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips to figure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after each pass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensions were all within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough to move on to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Dec 15 13:22:51 2001 fBFJMot12040 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:22:50 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:22:36 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued The Lie-Nielsen No. 1 bench plane seems to be a good size for final planing, but the rear tote is so ridiculously small no one's hands can get in that small space. I wonder if a ball handle front and rear wouldn't make that one a good final plane?Darryl In a message dated 12/15/01 12:03:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, avyoung@iinet.net.au writes: I mentioned this to Thom about a year ago and he didn't seem very interested. I guess he knows the interest and possible number of planes he could sell and decided it's not worth the hassle. He more or less told me altering the sharpening angle is all I need to do and go away, politely of course [:-)] In the mean time, I have a prototype of exactly what I think is needed already made and it works great. It's a bit dodgy looking so I wont show it yet but if I can make it look a bit nicer and get one little problem solved I'll let you know about how it all goes. Tony The Lie-Nielsen No. 1 bench plane seems to be a good size for final planing,but the rear tote is so ridiculously small no one's hands can get in that smallspace. I wonder if a ball handle front and rear wouldn't make that one a goodfinal plane?Darryl In a message dated 12/15/01 12:03:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,avyoung@iinet.net.au writes:I mentioned this to Thom about ayear ago and he didn't seem very interested. I guess he knows the interest and possible number of planes he could sell and decided it's not worth the hassle. He more or less told me altering the sharpening angle is all I need to do and go away, politely of course :-) In the mean time, I have a prototype of exactly what I think is needed already made and it works great. It's a bit dodgy looking so I wont show it yet but if I can make it look a bit nicer and get one little problem solved I'll let you know about how it all goes. Tony from dickay@alltel.net Sat Dec 15 14:28:52 2001 fBFKSpt13073 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:28:51 - srv.alltel.net Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:28:45 -0600 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Two New Rods Troy, I have driven that stretch from Poteau to Broken Bow in rain and fogwith a van that was acting up. It is not fun. However, in the spring orfall when the weather is pretty it is beautiful. My wife doesn't like iteven in pretty weather when we go from Broken Bow to Poteau pulling thefifth wheel. Any speed is too fast for her coming down that stretch withall the turns. Going up is OK but coming down is bad. Bob is a great guy and we have missed him at the Fort Smith Flyfishersmeetings the last few months.Dick FuhrmanP.S. Bob, what did you do, eat the Fish Camp out of house and home. Wentover there about a month ago and it was closed. With the Silver Dollarclosed and the Black Angus gone where is there to eat in Poteau? Braums! from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat Dec 15 14:32:13 2001 fBFKWCt13320 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:32:12 - Subject: belding Corticelli Does anyone have a spare spool of Belding Corticelli silk thread size A in color 5010 that I could buy? I am redoing a rod and this is the closest color I can come up with to match the original color. Bret http://bretsovens.bravepages.com/ Does anyone have aspare spool of Belding Corticelli silk thread size A in color 5010 that I could Bret http://bretsovens.bravepages.com/ from bamboo@pa.net Sat Dec 15 15:54:35 2001 fBFLsYt14503 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:54:35 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:51:54 - Subject: taper request Subject: Re: First Rod Questions Martin It occurs to me that if that people building their first rods are reallyworried about binding time, probably the most logical thing would be to usea slower glue at first; if you use a binder and run into some sort of faecalstorm, you've got enough to worry about without having the blank glued tothe the binder and to two separate bits of string, one of which has no end,and all of which are bonded to your gloves. Ask me, as they say, how I know that! Peter from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 04:36:20 2001 fBFAaIt29444 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 04:36:19 - fBFAa4561932; Subject: Re: First Rod Questions I use a big G-clamp on the back of the bench, which holds two bits of woodseparated by two strips of felt; I run the thread between the pieces offelt, and then wrap the rod. You can vary the tension as much as you like.The whole process is a pain in the arse! A binder is better! Peter from "Marty D. aka \"none" Sat Dec 15 05:01:21 2001 fBFB1Lt29952 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:01:21 - (uvscan: v4.1.60/v4175. . Clean. Processed in 1.999297 secs); 15 Dec 200111:01:20 -0000 sender ) Subject: Re: Mid Section Use 6 strips from the butt. More power fibers and you will have more ofthesestrips to pick from. Marty KyleDruey@aol.com wrote: I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the buttsection makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... butwhat about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips fromthelower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, tookme one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for thelast strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips tofigure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after eachpass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensionswereall within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough tomoveon to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from "Marty D. aka \"none" Sat Dec 15 05:23:46 2001 fBFBNjt00434 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 05:23:45 - (uvscan: v4.1.60/v4175. . Clean. Processed in 1.098654 secs); 15 Dec 200111:23:45 -0000 sender ) Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25 After years of trying different planes I finally found the set up Ilike. I use a Lie-Nielson 9 1/2 (LN91/2) with a .002" grooved sole forgetting the strips within .002" off the form. I finish with aLie-Nielson 103 Special (LN103SP). This is a very small plane with afixed throat setting with interchangable throat plates to change thesetting (so I guess it's not really fixed). I use it to make the lastfew swipes on each strip. This set up save the form and blades fromnicks. This plane is uncataloged and has to be asked for. George Mauertold me about it. Now what do I do with the Stanely 9 1/2 and half dozenHock blades? Marty DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: Allow me a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane onebay for $50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00).Appearance wise there is a few problems, but mechanically it isperfect. After sanding in a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, andmoving the frog up to narrow the throat, I tested it for finalplaning. It works great! The smaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 91/2, the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called atote) allows a lot of control in being able to judge if the plane islevel or not. I really believe the angle of the blade in bench planes(45 deg.) is a lot better for planing with the grain than the blockplanes, and the chip breaker moved close to the edge helps a lot withpreventing lifts. After all my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay,this is what I recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nodto the 3), a size 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (youget less of them with a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful,but not necessary. How's that for busting a Garrison-ism?Darryl Hayashida --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25 After years of trying different planes I finally found the set up I like.I use a Lie-Nielson 9 1/2 (LN91/2) with a .002" grooved sole for gettingthe strips within .002" off the form. I finish with a Lie-Nielson 103 Special(LN103SP). This is a very small plane with a fixed throat setting withinterchangable throat plates to change the setting (so I guess it's notreally fixed). I use it to make the last few swipes on each strip. Thisset up save the form and blades from nicks. This plane is uncataloged andhas to be asked for. George Mauer told me about it. Now what do I do withthe Stanely 9 1/2 and half dozen Hock blades? MartyDNHayashida@aol.com wrote:Allowme a little bit of a "tool gloat". I got a size 2 bench plane on ebay for$50.00 (usually you can't touch one for under $150.00). Appearance wisethere is a few problems, but mechanically it is perfect. After sandingin a .002 groove, sharpening the blade, and moving the frog up to narrowthe throat, I tested it for final planing. It worksgreat!Thesmaller size 2 bench plane is just as controllable as a Stanley 9 1/2,the weight being just a bit more, but the rear handle (called a tote) allowsa lot of control in being able to judge if the plane is level or not. Ireally believe the angle of the blade in bench planes (45 deg.) is a lotbetter for planing with the grain than the block planes, and the chip breakermoved close to the edge helps a lot with preventinglifts.Afterall my adventures in bench planes and in buying them on ebay, this is whatI recommend. A size 3 or 4 for roughing (I'd give the nod to the 3), asize 2 for final planing, a scraper for fixing lifts (you get less of themwith a bench plane). A 9 1/2 block plane is useful, but not necessary.How's that for busting a Garrison- ism?DarrylHayashida --------------68545F4BE25ED29D208DFB25-- from carstenjorgensen@mail.dk Sat Dec 15 08:11:58 2001 fBFEBut02173 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:11:56 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued the finish planing andthe block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few =forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure =grip of the stripwhen planing, have a look at http://home11.inet.tele.dk/cmj/upload1.htm All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with =the other,do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will be =revealed to Yourdoubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used for finish =planing. Pics are somewhat big, so will take some time to download, but You =will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen the benchplane for the finish planing andthe block plane for the rought stuff. = eventually, save a few forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for = how to have a secure grip of the stripwhen planing, have a look =at http://home11.inet.te=le.dk/cmj/upload1.htm All of You rodmakers the plane with = hold the strip with the other,do have a look and behold, a new and = of planing will be revealed to Yourdoubting eyes. There is even a pic of = benchplane - used for finish planing. Pics are somewhat big, so will take = download, but You will be rewarded. regards, jorgensen from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 08:30:28 2001 fBFEURt04148 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:30:27 -0600 0000 Subject: Re: Another Virus Jojo This one came up on my wif's e-mail but not one mine. She is not on thelist Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jojo@ipa.net Sat Dec 15 08:56:18 2001 fBFEuHt04777 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 08:56:17 - helo=default) id 16FGES-0003Rn-00 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:56:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten, You're preaching to the great unwashed. I had the idea, at one time, to usea toggle clamp to hold the strips, but opted instead to ascend to theloftier metaphysical plane (no pun intended) of the Morgan Hand Mill and themilling machine, leaving behind the trappings of the amateur rodmakers --the plane and the form. (Sorry, I couldn't resist taking a TA shot of moraland mechanical superiority.) M-D finish planing and the block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually,save a few forlorn souls?Well, it doesn't matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip ofthe strip when planing, have a look at All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with theother, do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will berevealed to Your doubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used download, but You will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 09:04:04 2001 fBFF43t05065 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:04:03 - 0000 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten and Jojo I too thought of using a toiggle clamp, but I find that a 1" springclamp is just as good. Different strokes for different folks.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jojo@ipa.net Sat Dec 15 09:14:07 2001 fBFFE6t05400 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:14:06 -0600 helo=default) id 16FGVp-0002gf-00 for RODMAKERS@mail.wustl.edu; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:14:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I do still have forms, by the way, which are elevated 1" above the workbench. A spring clamp would do as well on them, with less fuss. Carsten andRalph, how much extra length do you guys leave on your strips to account forthe clamping, and for the plane length. Are you holding the strip by hand,starting to plane, getting past the clamping point, then clamping, or . . .? M-D Carsten and Jojo I too thought of using a toiggle clamp, but I find that a 1" springclamp is just as good. Different strokes for different folks.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 09:22:14 2001 fBFFMEt05783 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:22:14 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:20:58 -0500 Subject: Re:Fuzzies Pt 1or 2 Please explain, you got me curious.I'd be very interested in any suggestions.I don't own any type of beveler or mill at the moment.But I've always wondered if either would be good investment. Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} Allen Please explain, you got me curious. I don't own any type of beveler or mill at the moment. investment.thanks Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from atlasc1@earthlink.net Sat Dec 15 09:36:25 2001 fBFFaPt06271 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:36:25 - ([209.178.134.163] helo=g2t8c9) id 16FGrL-00040I-00; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 07:36:20 -0800 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued M-D, I looked at the Morgan HandMill and I thought you could hook that sucker upto a worm gear and motor and then go get some coffee while it makes thestrips for you. Shoot you might take a look at JW one pass mill and youreally would ascend to the highest level of rodmaking nirvana and become aZen master of Tonkin manipulation through advanced switch activation. I am waiting for the day that JW makes a mill that is voice activated. Justimagine you simply say "Para 15" and the form is set and the cutters go towork. Adam Vigil----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Carsten, You're preaching to the great unwashed. I had the idea, at one time, to use a toggle clamp to hold the strips, but opted instead to ascend to theloftier metaphysical plane (no pun intended) of the Morgan Hand Mill and the milling machine, leaving behind the trappings of the amateur rodmakers --the plane and the form. (Sorry, I couldn't resist taking a TA shot of moral and mechanical superiority.) M-D From: Carsten Jorgensen finish planing and the block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few forlorn souls?Well, it doesn't matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip of the strip when planing, have a look at All of You rodmakers the plane with one hand and hold the strip with theother, do have a look and behold, a new and easier way of planing will berevealed to Your doubting eyes. There is even a pic of my benchplane - used download, but You will be rewarded. regards, carsten jorgensen from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 09:38:23 2001 fBFFcNt06511 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:38:23 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:37:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Snake bites in the land down TonyI was watching a show the other day and A guy was saying his job was =treating snake bites.I know, go figure? LOL But any way he said 98% of people he treats are =males betweenthe ages of 16 and 25 that get bit on the hands.He said he had no real evidence of his theory ,but he thinks it's =because they were trying to catch the snakes. LOL www.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} Tony treating snake bites. treats are males betweenthe ages of 16 and 25 that get bit on the hands.He said he had no real evidence of his theory ,but he thinks it's = they were trying to catch the snakes. LOL www.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from rmoon@ida.net Sat Dec 15 10:09:32 2001 fBFG9Vt07266 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:09:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued M.D. I don't leave much excess. Usually 2" at the top and 2" at theother end. I do position the clamp so that I can plane the butt endThat is, you don't leave the clamp at the butt all of the time. Move itaround.Ralph --WWW.ida.net/users/rmoon/Symposium from jvswan@earthlink.net Sat Dec 15 11:28:45 2001 fBFHSit08325 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:28:44 - (209.181.151.110) User-Agent: Microsoft-Entourage/9.0.1.3108 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued What about those Japanese block planes that are supposed to be pulledinstead of pushed? Don't those have a higher angle of attack? Some ofthemdon't seem to be too big, either. Jason from flyfish@defnet.com Sat Dec 15 11:47:29 2001 fBFHlSt08839 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:47:28 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:46:12 -0500 Subject: Nice work!!!! I just seen for the first time a picture of Adam Vigil's Rod work.It was a very clear picture and I have a high resolution screen.Adam has given out alot of compliments on other people's work and is a =great contributor to this list. As well as giving out information =freely. Very ,very Nice work Adam! pointing out his talent to the list.I would love to put an attachment to this post, but as you all know some =peoples servers can't handle attachments. And I've been in enough hot =water lately LOL:))Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html BODY { BACKGROUND-POSITION: left top; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: #000000; =BACKGROUND-REPEAT: no-repeat; FONT-FAMILY: Garamond MT} I just seen for the first time a picture of Adam Vigil's Rod =work.It was a very clear picture and I have a high resolution =screen.Adam has given out alot of compliments on other people's work and = great contributor to this list. As well as giving out information =freely. Very ,very Nice work Adam!Adam is a very modest person, so I hope he doesn't get mad at me = pointing out his talent to the list. enough hot water lately LOL:))Tony Millerwww.homestead.com/=bambooshop/home.html from wkifer@harborside.com Sat Dec 15 11:49:02 2001 fBFHn1t09017 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:49:01 - 0000 Subject: Skip-Email Address --=======2966493======= ascii; format=flowed Skip,Lost your email address. Would you reply so I can get it in my address book.Thanks,Wayne --=======2966493=======-- from TSmithwick@aol.com Sat Dec 15 12:05:26 2001 fBFI5Pt09501 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:05:25 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I have to admit I got interested in this after Darryl's original post. The only thing I had around to try was a 15" Stanley #5 jack plane. I was thinking this would mean I could not start planing closer than about 10" from the clamp. As soon as I got set up and picked up the tool, however, I realized that all you have to do is turn the plane at an angle to the cutting direction, and you can get very close to the clamp. This is a good practice anyway, as it results in a cleaner cut. Most craftsmen who use planes, other than us, push them at an angle. Of course, it is a problem if you groove the sole. Anyway, It seemed to me the idea of using these planes has merit. Even the old jack plane, which has an uneven sole, and was not nearly sharpened to our standards, cut untreated nodes very nicely. It's too heavy for this work, IMHO but far from useless. I guess I need to start looking around for a #2 or 3. from harms1@pa.net Sat Dec 15 12:20:49 2001 fBFIKmt09962 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:20:49 - Subject: Re: First Rod Question Jim, The node problem you are having will indeed cause problems when you glueandbind the rod. At each node there will be dips and/or rises that will havethe effect of ruining the desired taper. Nodes must be dead flat before youcomplete final planing. Depending upon the particular culm of cane itself, the split-out strips willneed both filing and heat-straightening at the nodes. Sometimes a node willbe humped, and will show a little depression on one side (sometimes on bothsides). The ridge of each node must be filed away, but don't take the nodedown much farther than just below its surface. Now, rough plane the stripdown toward a 1/4" in width, and reduce its thickness as well (taking carethat you don't go beyond the intended half-thickness of the taper). Roughplaning to smaller, "squared" proportions is advised for ease ofheat- straightening--which follows. Next, heat straighten the node by bending upward, against the hump. Thiswill cause the strip to take on a rather severe, upward (concave) curve.When cooled, then heat straighted the area(s) where the depressionsoccurred, by bending each of them downward. The enamel side of the stripshould now have become quite flat, and any remaining unevenness can befiled. As a side-note, perfect flattening of the node areas becomes increasinglyeasy the more the dimensions of a given strip are reduced. Best of luck,Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: First Rod Question Well I finally assembled all the tools I need to complete my first rod. I amabout to get started and have been practicing splitting, filing,straightening, flattening nodes and rough planing. I do have one question.When flattening nodes I keep running into a problem with getting themcompletely flat. As a result when I am rough planing they don't always fittightly against the form. Although I have been able to still get a nice 60degree angle I'm concerned this may lead to problems down the road. I don'twant to make too many mistakes when I begin working on a good piece ofcane.Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Jim from homes-sold@attbi.com Sat Dec 15 12:27:38 2001 fBFIRct10296 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:27:38 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:27:29 +0000 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Yes, you pull them.In a catalog I have from "The Japan Wordwooker" says:"Chinese style planes are unique compared to Western planes in that theblade is bedded at 60Ÿ. Since the blade is sharpened with a 30Ÿ bevel, itcan be reversed in the body to make a 90Ÿ scraper plane able to handle anyparticularly nasty grains. The blades are made from high quality toolsteel".The blades are 6mm thick tempered to Rockwell 62Ÿ-64Ÿ and the planebodieshave an adjustable throat.The Palm Plane looks of particular interest to me, 4 3/4" long with a 1 1/4"wide blade.The Smoothing Plane is 8 1/4" long with a 2" wide blade.Anybody ever use one of these?Don----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued What about those Japanese block planes that are supposed to be pulledinstead of pushed? from harms1@pa.net Sat Dec 15 12:33:49 2001 fBFIXmt10687 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:33:48 - Subject: Re: Mid Section Kyle, consideration as to strip-selection from the culm. Larger rods, yes. Thehalf-dimension for the largest part of a mid-section is usually no greaterthan the depth of the power-fibers at the half-way-point of a good culm, soyou're safe enough. On the other hand, you should have plenty of caneavailable in the butt area of the culm to take all six strips for both yourbutt and your mid sections. Having said that, there is also no good reason why you couldn't do as yousuggest--use three strips from the butt and three from the tip. The onlyconsideration here would be that node-spacing would be quite different instrips taken from the two areas of a culm. You would need to do some"jockeying" to achieve a good staggering pattern, but I imagine you couldwork that out. In all, I wouldn't worry much about the issue unless you are building alarge rod. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Mid Section I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the butt section makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... but what about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips from the lower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, took me one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for the last strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips to figure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after each pass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensions were all within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough to move on to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Dec 15 12:52:22 2001 fBFIqMt11215 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:52:22 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:52:17 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued I have seen this phenomena myself. I guess rodmakers are a skeptical lot,we= tend to need corroborating testimony to start believing the experience ofon= person. Nobody believed me until Reed Curry tried out a bench plane.Darryl Hayashida carstenjorgensen@mail.dk writes: finish planing and forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4t matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a securegrip= the stripwhen planing, have a look at I have seen this phenomena myself. I guess rodmakers are a skeptical lot,we=tend to need corroborating testimony to start believing the experience ofo=ne person. Nobody believed me until Reed Curry tried out a bench plane.Darryl Hayashida In a message dated 12/15/01 6:12:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,carstenjorgens=en@mail.dk writes: benchp=lane for the finish planing andthe block plane for theroug=ht stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few forlorn souls? Well, it doesn=B4tmatter, B=UT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip of the stripwhen planing, have alook at= from channer@frontier.net Sat Dec 15 13:02:18 2001 fBFJ2Ht11543 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:02:17 - Subject: Re: Mid Section Or you could either order your culms for 3 pc rods cut to 4' lengthsinstead of 6' or cut your 12' culms to 4' yourself. just a thoughtjohn WILLIAM HARMS wrote: Kyle, consideration as to strip-selection from the culm. Larger rods, yes. Thehalf-dimension for the largest part of a mid-section is usually no greaterthan the depth of the power-fibers at the half-way-point of a good culm, soyou're safe enough. On the other hand, you should have plenty of caneavailable in the butt area of the culm to take all six strips for both yourbutt and your mid sections. Having said that, there is also no good reason why you couldn't do as yousuggest--use three strips from the butt and three from the tip. The onlyconsideration here would be that node-spacing would be quite different instrips taken from the two areas of a culm. You would need to do some"jockeying" to achieve a good staggering pattern, but I imagine you couldwork that out. In all, I wouldn't worry much about the issue unless you are building alarge rod. cheers, Bill ----- Original Message -----From: Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 1:25 AMSubject: Mid Section I'm making a three piece rod. Using the lower half of the culm for the butt section makes sense as does using the upper half for the tip section... but what about the middle section? I was thinking of using three strips from the lower culm and three strips from the upper culm, and alternating them. Isthis a bad idea, or does it really matter? Maybe I'm getting too anal about this, but isn't that half the fun of thisrod making? TIA, Kyle Fired up the Medved Machine tonight for the maiden voyage... stokin'jamocin'! Man, is that thing cool! The learning curve isn't too bad, took me one hour on the initial strip (which was a throw away), took 10' for the last strip. Don't laugh too hard over this, but it took me three strips to figure out that I needed to flip sides and raise the bed a little after each pass! Finally go to the point where the three point-to-apex dimensions were all within 5 mils of one another - hope this tolerance is good enough to move on to final planing! Thanks everyone for your help with the Medved Beveler. from DNHayashida@aol.com Sat Dec 15 13:22:51 2001 fBFJMot12040 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:22:50 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:22:36 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued The Lie-Nielsen No. 1 bench plane seems to be a good size for final planing, but the rear tote is so ridiculously small no one's hands can get in that small space. I wonder if a ball handle front and rear wouldn't make that one a good final plane?Darryl In a message dated 12/15/01 12:03:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, avyoung@iinet.net.au writes: I mentioned this to Thom about a year ago and he didn't seem very interested. I guess he knows the interest and possible number of planes he could sell and decided it's not worth the hassle. He more or less told me altering the sharpening angle is all I need to do and go away, politely of course [:-)] In the mean time, I have a prototype of exactly what I think is needed already made and it works great. It's a bit dodgy looking so I wont show it yet but if I can make it look a bit nicer and get one little problem solved I'll let you know about how it all goes. Tony The Lie-Nielsen No. 1 bench plane seems to be a good size for final planing,but the rear tote is so ridiculously small no one's hands can get in that smallspace. I wonder if a ball handle front and rear wouldn't make that one a goodfinal plane?Darryl In a message dated 12/15/01 12:03:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,avyoung@iinet.net.au writes:I mentioned this to Thom about ayear ago and he didn't seem very interested. I guess he knows the interest and possible number of planes he could sell and decided it's not worth the hassle. He more or less told me altering the sharpening angle is all I need to do and go away, politely of course :-) In the mean time, I have a prototype of exactly what I think is needed already made and it works great. It's a bit dodgy looking so I wont show it yet but if I can make it look a bit nicer and get one little problem solved I'll let you know about how it all goes. Tony from dickay@alltel.net Sat Dec 15 14:28:52 2001 fBFKSpt13073 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:28:51 - srv.alltel.net Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:28:45 -0600 "Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Two New Rods Troy, I have driven that stretch from Poteau to Broken Bow in rain and fogwith a van that was acting up. It is not fun. However, in the spring orfall when the weather is pretty it is beautiful. My wife doesn't like iteven in pretty weather when we go from Broken Bow to Poteau pulling thefifth wheel. Any speed is too fast for her coming down that stretch withall the turns. Going up is OK but coming down is bad. Bob is a great guy and we have missed him at the Fort Smith Flyfishersmeetings the last few months.Dick FuhrmanP.S. Bob, what did you do, eat the Fish Camp out of house and home. Wentover there about a month ago and it was closed. With the Silver Dollarclosed and the Black Angus gone where is there to eat in Poteau? Braums! from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat Dec 15 14:32:13 2001 fBFKWCt13320 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 14:32:12 - Subject: belding Corticelli Does anyone have a spare spool of Belding Corticelli silk thread size A in color 5010 that I could buy? I am redoing a rod and this is the closest color I can come up with to match the original color. Bret http://bretsovens.bravepages.com/ Does anyone have aspare spool of Belding Corticelli silk thread size A in color 5010 that I could Bret http://bretsovens.bravepages.com/ from bamboo@pa.net Sat Dec 15 15:54:35 2001 fBFLsYt14503 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 15:54:35 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:51:54 - Subject: taper request I had a gentleman request an unusual rod taper today. A 6'9" 5 weight =three piece that is rather quick. I'm playing with some numbers now =but was curious if any of you fellows might have built anything similar =and could make a recommendation.Thanks,Bill I had a gentleman request an unusual = playing with some numbers now but was curious if any of you fellows = built anything similar and could make a recommendation.Thanks,Bill from teekay35@interlynx.net Sat Dec 15 16:08:22 2001 fBFM8Lt14840 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:08:21 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Hi, Tom. I've been using an old #4 1/2 Bailley plane for several years now.Last year I got an A2 blade from Lee Valley and the combinatioon really hogsoff shavings and does it cleanly. It would be nice to see a shorter/smallerversion of this for rodmakers. from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sat Dec 15 16:18:03 2001 fBFMI1t15177 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:18:02 - fBFMHrA16405; Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued That's what I do - raised a couple of inches.Use spring clamps. Leave NO extra, just move the spring clamp once each pass. No trouble onceyou get used to it, and the old right hand develops a killer handshake grip! Peter from thogan@rochester.rr.com Sat Dec 15 16:35:24 2001 fBFMZOt15697 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:35:24 - fBFMZI802546 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:35:18 - Subject: Silk on Ferrules I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies.I would like to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior ofthe silk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this?ThanksTaylor from mschaffer@mindspring.com Sat Dec 15 16:49:27 2001 fBFMnQt16070 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:49:26 - helo=004314280) id 16FNcU-0003gs-00 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:49:26 -0500 Subject: Stanley/ Bailey planes Sitting out here in the shop, I happened to eyeball some of my planes =that I have hanging on the wall. Doggone if I don't have three =Stanley/Bailey planes- nos. 3, 4, and 5, and a Shelton no.14. All the =planes have flat soles except the #4 which has multiple grooves in the =sole. Talk about not being able to see the forest for the trees!I guess I had better put some elbow grease on these planes although they =aren't in bad condition anyway.Guys, did the Baileys come before the Stanley, then Stanley bought the =design rights from Bailey? And what's with Shelton? Mike Sitting out here in the shop, I = the planes have flat soles except the #4 which has multiple grooves in = trees!I guess I had better put some elbow = planes although they aren't in bad condition anyway.Guys, did the Baileys come before the = Shelton? Mike from "Marty D. aka \"none" Sat Dec 15 16:57:06 2001 fBFMv5t16394 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:57:05 -0600 v4.1.60/v4175. . Clean. Processed in 2.867264 secs); 15 Dec 200122:57:04 -0000 Subject: Re: Delamination "kinda" One more ? No , Titebond II and Titebond II Extend are heat resistant only, not heat proof.You can heat straighten however, just use less heat more slowly. Marty BambooRods@aol.com wrote: Thanks for all the advice.... one more question. Having repaired as advised,will the TB II hold up to the heat from straightening? I am going to need toget rid of a long sweep that is in the tip. TIADoug from channer@frontier.net Sat Dec 15 18:35:16 2001 fBG0ZFt17450 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:35:16 - Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Taylor;I just polish the part of the ferrule that gets wrapped over after Ithin the tabs down, even on blackened ferrules. At least this gives anice background for the wraps. Most of my rods get wrapped in lightcinnamon, which turns a medium brown when varnished and the ferrulesshow up a little lighter, but I think it looks good that way.john taylor hogan wrote: I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies.I would like to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior ofthe silk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this?ThanksTaylor from robertgkope@attbi.com Sat Dec 15 19:21:41 2001 fBG1Let18127 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:21:40 - Sun, 16 Dec 2001 01:21:30 +0000 ,"Rodmakers Mail" Subject: Re: Thread tensioners My solution was to attach an aluminum block about 1x2x3 inches onto thetopof my binder. I drilled 1/4" holes for the tensioners and put set screwsinto the sides of the holes to secure the tensioners. I also used the blockto mount all my thread guides for my binding thread. -- Robert----- Original Message ----- Subject: RE: Thread tensioners No financial interest. I found thread tensioners for $3 plus shipping atthe address below. The question I have is, how do you connect the tensioner to anything. They do not have a normal screw mount. If anyone has a good http://www.wagnerrods.com/tools.html Darrin Curtis from caneman@clnk.com Sat Dec 15 19:45:44 2001 fBG1jit18547 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 19:45:44 - (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) ,"Rod Makers List Serve" Subject: Re: Two New Rods LOL, Well, there is Warehouse Willies, but to tell you the truth, I'd ratherdrive to Fort Smith to eat... a lot better, although the garlic Shrimp at WWisn't shabby.I don't know what happened to the Fish Camp... a few of my biker buddiesand I went in there one Friday night and the next day they were locked down!*S* I'm sure it had NOTHING to do with the clientelle! BobPS: I'll be back to FFFlyfishers... just been too busy these past fewmonths. I hear the banquet was great and Jason Borgers presentation wasoutstanding. R.L. Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Cane Flyrodshttp://www.caneflyrod.com- ---- Original Message ----- ListServe" Subject: Re: Two New Rods Troy, I have driven that stretch from Poteau to Broken Bow in rain and fog with a van that was acting up. It is not fun. However, in the spring orfall when the weather is pretty it is beautiful. My wife doesn't like iteven in pretty weather when we go from Broken Bow to Poteau pulling thefifth wheel. Any speed is too fast for her coming down that stretch withall the turns. Going up is OK but coming down is bad. Bob is a great guy and we have missed him at the Fort Smith Flyfishersmeetings the last few months.Dick FuhrmanP.S. Bob, what did you do, eat the Fish Camp out of house and home. Wentover there about a month ago and it was closed. With the Silver Dollarclosed and the Black Angus gone where is there to eat in Poteau? Braums! from darrell@vFish.net Sat Dec 15 21:36:24 2001 fBG3aNt19928 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:36:23 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:35:51 -0600 Subject: RE: Silk on Ferrules You either use dark thread such as copper, browns, reds, black or else usecolor preserver so the silk won't go translucent. Darrell -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Taylor;I just polish the part of the ferrule that gets wrapped over after Ithin the tabs down, even on blackened ferrules. At least this gives anice background for the wraps. Most of my rods get wrapped in lightcinnamon, which turns a medium brown when varnished and the ferrulesshow up a little lighter, but I think it looks good that way.john taylor hogan wrote: I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies.I would like to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior of the silk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this?ThanksTaylor from lblan@provide.net Sat Dec 15 21:49:20 2001 fBG3nKt20351 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:49:20 - for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:49:15 - Subject: Router turned reel seats A short time back, there was some discussion regarding the use of a router(table mounted) to turn reel seat inserts. Ran across this today, it is made http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/fullpres.exe?PARTNUM=900-307 Larry Blan from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Dec 15 22:32:07 2001 fBG4W6t21059 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:32:06 - Subject: Re: Snake bites in the land down That'd be about right. Personally I leave them all alone treating them all as if they were loaded guns pointing at me but then I'm at peace with myself in the way of snake behavior.I've had some very close calls over the years with a couple of snakes strike at me but in one case (brown snake in Victoria ) it got the clothing I was wearing and in the other (Death Adder in Far North Queensland) it didn't penetrate the military surplus US marine gaitors with a cloth sample bag with it's bottom torn out to keep spear grass seeds out of my socks I was wearing.In the last case there was a Kiwi working with us who was completely terrified about snakes. There are zero snakes in NZ and a lot of Kiwis are mortally terrified of them mainly I guess because they simply don't realise they aren't all that bad unless you annoy them (in general)It was the height of Summer we were all seeing at least 5 or more a day so he was really on edge all the time, at one point when some intentional burning off was being done so new shoots would form during the expected rains we saw in excess of thirty a day as they moved out of the burned areas into areas still grassed.We were surveying a grid for magnatometer work. I crossed a small ditch you could jump across where there was a pretty big snake sunning himself and called to Les to be careful not to walk into the ditch but not why thinking he'd know why.I looked through the lens of the theodolite just in time to see the target fall over, I looked up and saw Les throw all the survey pegs over his shoulder and bolt. Apparently he saw a snake, possibly the one in the ditch. He took to the nearest tree and knocked a green tree ant nest onto himself. These aren't that bad individually but a half million angry ants are always bad. He finally got these off and only had a few hundred in his closes then realised a little tree snake was in a tree just nearby.I went to him and said maybe it'd be best to knock off for the day so we went back to camp, Les drank pretty heavy that night and droped a beer bottle then stepped on the glass making a hell of a gash that needed stiches so we fixed that up there and then. Les though a few stitches and a week off was worth the hassle. Every day he had a ritual of putting on his leather gaitors which he told us he bought in the US and were used by the rattle snake catchers which went right to his knees. I told him on his first day he didn't need these things around here which is true. He looked with that "I'm saved" sort of look and one of the other blokes piped up and said "sure, they wont try to bite you in the leg, they'll go for your throat". To which Les told him "I BLOODY KNOW THAT!!!"He got used to them in the end. Tony At 10:39 AM 12/15/01 -0500, Tony Miller wrote: TonyI was watching a show the other day and A guy was saying his job was treating snake bites.I know, go figure? LOL But any way he said 98% of people he treats are males betweenthe ages of 16 and 25 that get bit on the hands.He said he had no real evidence of his theory ,but he thinks it's because they were trying to catch the snakes. LOLTony Millerwww.homestead.com/bambooshop/home.html /**************************************************************************/ AV YoungVisit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html If you learn "indoor" techniques, you will think narrowly and forget the true Way.Thus you will have difficulty in actual encounters. Myamoto Musashi/**************************************************************************/ from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Dec 15 22:45:15 2001 fBG4jDt21504 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:45:13 - "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued fBG4jEt21505 I have and have also made a couple as they are very easy to make being more or less Krenov type planes which I would think are Europeanised Asian planes. You can push these planes as well. The reason Japanes/Chinese style planes are designed to be pulled is they work off the floor not at work benches (for the most part) so it's a lot easier to pull a plane from that posture than push. It also makes sense to pull a plane and saw than push if you think about it.As I wrote just before the problem with these planes is they all have a wooden sole so they'll chop out pretty fast in our use. The mouth opening is also too wide.One other hassle is the iron adjustment is done by tapping the *plane* NOT the iron with a small hammer. You tap the fron to make the iron slip down more and visa versa.You get the hang of it pretty quick and it's actually not too bad BUT it's not hi tech enough for most people. Having this sort of adjustment also means once the iron has lost it's edge you HAVE to resharpen it else it wont stay in place because the force of pushing it forces it back out. Tony At 10:28 AM 12/15/01 -0800, Don Schneider wrote: Yes, you pull them.In a catalog I have from "The Japan Wordwooker" says:"Chinese style planes are unique compared to Western planes in that theblade is bedded at 60Ÿ. Since the blade is sharpened with a 30Ÿ bevel, itcan be reversed in the body to make a 90Ÿ scraper plane able to handle anyparticularly nasty grains. The blades are made from high quality toolsteel".The blades are 6mm thick tempered to Rockwell 62Ÿ-64Ÿ and the planebodieshave an adjustable throat.The Palm Plane looks of particular interest to me, 4 3/4" long with a 1 1/4"wide blade.The Smoothing Plane is 8 1/4" long with a 2" wide blade.Anybody ever use one of these?Don----- Original Message -----From: "Jason Swan" Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:28 AMSubject: Re: Bench Planes continued What about those Japanese block planes that are supposed to be pulledinstead of pushed? /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from martinrjensen@attbi.com Sat Dec 15 22:52:29 2001 fBG4qSt21772 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:52:28 - ;Sun, 16 Dec 2001 04:52:22 +0000 Subject: RE: Silk on Ferrules Organization: wish I had some The serrations will definitely show through on light silk. You just haveto get used to it. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Silk on Ferrules I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies. I wouldlike to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior of thesilk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this? Thanks Taylor from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sat Dec 15 22:57:26 2001 fBG4vOt22026 for ; Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:57:24 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued fBG4vPt22027 There have been a few of us using a bench plane for a while now. I was using a wooden one with a high angle of attack I made a while back and the sole lasts only a short time which I'd have expected but it worked very well.There are other reasons to use one also.A bench plane wont follow the ups and downs of a spline so you get a straight spline much faster than you do using a block plane which will follow the ups and downs of the spline in the initial form because it's so short.I don't actually use an initial or intermediate form any longer for this reason but just put the strip in the final form and plane it. You get to the stage of having to think seriously about accurate work pretty fast if you use one. There are a couple of reasons for this. First is what I wrote above, the reason planes are made in varying lengths is the longer the plane the more humps it'll take off without going up and down the valleys if that makes sense. Imagine a snow sledge that's 5 feet long going up and down mogals, now imagine one 30 feet long that only travels along the tops. That means you get a very even strip fast.The other obvious reason is you have some serious pressure behind the plane because you have all your weight behind it and you are using two hands.A block plane is at this stage still the best plane to use IMHO for the final passes. Tony At 01:52 PM 12/15/01 -0500, DNHayashida@aol.com wrote: I have seen this phenomena myself. I guess rodmakers are a skeptical lot, we tend to need corroborating testimony to start believing the experience of one person. Nobody believed me until Reed Curry tried out a bench plane.Darryl Hayashida In a message dated 12/15/01 6:12:54 AM Pacific Standard Time, carstenjorgensen@mail.dk writes: finish planing andthe block plane for the rought stuff. Will I, eventually, save a few forlorn souls? Well, it doesn't matter, BUT: for Your info as how to have a secure grip of the stripwhen planing, have a look at /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from caneman@clnk.com Sun Dec 16 00:33:59 2001 fBG6Xwt23655 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 00:33:58 - (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-61365U2500L250S0V35) Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Taylor,I learned a long time ago from watching and admiring the work of GunterHenseler, a German Rodmaker, that you should clean up your ferrules asthough they would be exposed and never covered with wraps. Generally,whenI use red on the wraps, I use red on the ferrules, if I use clear on thewraps, then I'll clear wrap the ferrules. Silk (or nylon) wraps aren'tdesigned to hide mistakes on ferrules, rather they serve two functions,holding the tabs in place and enhancing the beauty of what should already bea finely crafted fishing rod.John Channer said it best. Polish the tabs just as you would the restof your rod. Don't let those tabs fall below the standards that you set forexposed components, after all, your ferrule wraps should NOT serve thepurpose of hiding mistakes! Why should your ferrule tabs not be as smoothand perfect as your reel seat, your guide feet and the rest of your rod? Myopinion, they shouldn't be anything less. They should be as close toperfect as you can get them, so there should be no reason to worry aboutusing dark colors to hide them. Anyone who appreciates fine rods willappreciate the fact that you aren't trying to hide your ferrule tabs under acolor that doesn't match the rest of the rod. This is especially true ifyou choose to wrap the rod in clear (white) silk.As I posted recently, my 14 year has his first rod near completion. Hisferrule tabs are pretty close to perfect and the tabs are 'clear' wrappedwith red tipping. Admittedly, he had a LOT of help with the wraps, but Imade HIM dress the ferrule to what I thought they should be. My opinion isthat if a 14 year old can do it, anyone can. All it takes is just a littleextra time, and when you're going to put 40 hours in a rod, what is a fewmore minutes to make the tabs look as good as the rest of it? Tyler, my 14year old, now has his butt section wrapped and the wraps sealed and they arejust as clean as the ferrule wraps... no gaps in the Clear wraps andcertainly, no mistakes underneath, because when you're making a rod thatyouexpect someone to pay over a grand for, you just do it right... you don'tmake mistakes.Sorry if I sound a little Anal Retentive about this, but my idea offerrule wraps has never had anything to do with using a color dark enough tohide my laziness. They should be something that just stabelizes work thatyou are proud of having done. Later,Bob R.L. Nunley, RodmakerCustom Split Cane Flyrodshttp://www.caneflyrod.com- ---- Original Message ----- Subject: Silk on Ferrules I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies.I would like to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior of the silk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this?ThanksTaylor from ajthramer@hotmail.com Sun Dec 16 01:11:02 2001 fBG7B1t24232 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 01:11:02 - Sat, 15 Dec 2001 23:10:56 -0800 Sun, 16 Dec 2001 07:10:56 GMT Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules FILETIME=[CE7969F0:01C18600] One solution is to use non serrated ferrules. You thin down the part that would normally be serrated so that is just a few thousandths thick at the edge, anneal the edge, and polish.A.J. From: "taylor hogan" Subject: Silk on FerrulesDate: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 17:33:28 -0500 I have only used nylon wraps on ferrules. My humble apologies.I would like to try silk, but I am nervous that the translucent behavior ofthe silk will show the serrations in the ferrule, and won't look too good.How do other people handle this?ThanksTaylor _________________________________________________________________Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com from petermckean@netspace.net.au Sun Dec 16 04:17:21 2001 fBGAHJt25891 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 04:17:20 - fBGAHDC06634; Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Hello AJ When I first started making bamboo rods, which isn't all that many rods ago,I was under the impression that it was structurally necessary to "crown"ferrule serrations; not sure why, but I thought it was adurability/continuity thing. The last couple of rods, I have just polished the tabs and tapered themdown very fine, and I like the look much better. I still have this kind ofthing that the serrations have to be there. Still not entirely sure justwhy. So is there any reason at all for having the serrated tabs, other thantradition? Or, perhaps putting it another way, any reason for NOT havingthem? Assuming, I guess, that you don't like the look of crowned ferrules,in which case they obviously have to be there. Peter from splitcane@attbi.com Sun Dec 16 05:12:32 2001 fBGBCWt26596 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 05:12:32 - Subject: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi List, I do not know if this has been covered or not, but I thought itworth the mentioning... I have a firewall called Zone Alarm and every once in awhile a programcalled WNAD.EXE asks for permission to access the web I shut it downeverytime but got curious and this is what I found... If you have visited or viewed contents form Twistedhumor.com orSwapnut.com,you may have inversely load "spyware" on your computer. This runs in thebackground without your knowledge every time connect to the web, it goesoutand gets advertising and brings it back to your computer for display at atime release set by the writers of this fine software. On a side note itcould be taking info from your computer and delivering to these samepeople... Here's a link to the Houston Chronicle that will tell you everything youwill need to know about this "spyware" and how to get rid of it... http://www.chron.com/cs/CDA/story.hts/business/1112456 Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Rodswww.denverdave.net from fbcwin@3g.quik.com Sun Dec 16 06:57:08 2001 fBGCv7t27483 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 06:57:07 - (authenticated) Sun, 16 Dec 2001 04:56:33 -0800 Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued Tony, Tapping the body of the plane with a small wooden or plastic mallet is not abad method at all for moving the iron in Stanley-type block planes athousandth ortwo either direction. If I find that I want to move things a little withoutchanging my settings, I just give the plane a little whack with the plastichandleof a good sized screwdriver.One of the few tricks John Bradford taught me. Harry Tony Young wrote: One other hassle is the iron adjustment is done by tapping the *plane* NOTthe iron with a small hammer. You tap the fron to make the iron slip downmore and visa versa.You get the hang of it pretty quick and it's actually not too bad BUT it'snot hi tech enough for most people. -- -- Harry Boyd --http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods -- http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- from splitcane@attbi.com Sun Dec 16 07:12:13 2001 fBGDCCt27895 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 07:12:13 -0600 Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:12:07 +0000 Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Art, The Chronicle page must be down, if you go to www.yahoo.com andtypein WNAD.EXE you will get several hits ( 55 ) all explaining the "TrojanHorse / SpyWare" Twistedhumor.com loaded on millions of computers as afundraiser for Sept 11, but now refuses to comment on! PS, The music download software from www.swapnut.com has the same"Spyware"in it and it's a product of www.RankYou.com Check it out, another reason toinstall a FireWall to protect you from these HACKS! Here's a link to the FireWall I use: http://www.zonealarm.com/ sure thereare free FireWall's out there but you usually get what you pay for... * * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------------------* * * * * * * * * *-------- ----------------------------------* * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------------- -----* * * * * * * * * *------------------------------------------* * * * * * * * * * --- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------" United We Stand " Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Rodswww.denverdave.net ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Dave,Can you check that Chronical URL? I get "Can't be displayed" when I try to access it.Thanks,Art from avyoung@iinet.net.au Sun Dec 16 08:12:23 2001 fBGECLt28527 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 08:12:21 - Subject: Re: Bench Planes continued You're right Harry. It's also good for shifting sideways when you've run out of adjustment.Basically, hammers are handy things to have around and I have them all the way from a tiny tack hammer to an 8 pounder . One of my favorite tools in fact [:-)] I just need remember that if the only tool I ever use is a hammer I'll treat every job like a nail as the saying goes:-) Tony At 06:53 AM 12/16/01 -0600, Harry Boyd wrote: Tony, Tapping the body of the plane with a small wooden or plastic mallet is not abad method at all for moving the iron in Stanley-type block planes a thousandth ortwo either direction. If I find that I want to move things a little withoutchanging my settings, I just give the plane a little whack with the plastic handleof a good sized screwdriver.One of the few tricks John Bradford taught me. Harry Tony Young wrote: One other hassle is the iron adjustment is done by tapping the *plane*NOTthe iron with a small hammer. You tap the fron to make the iron slip downmore and visa versa.You get the hang of it pretty quick and it's actually not too bad BUT it'snot hi tech enough for most people. -- -- Harry Boyd --http://www.canerods.com/ -- Bamboo Rods -- http://www.fbcwin.com/ -- Our Church -- /*************************************************************************/AV Young Visit my web site at: www.iinet.net.au/~avyoung/flyrod.html Most of my life was spent in trying to figure out how to do a $50.00 project for 50 cents,and the remainder of my time was spent in trying to scrounge up the 50cents." Dave Gingery/*************************************************************************/ from darrell@vFish.net Sun Dec 16 08:57:53 2001 fBGEvqt29126 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 08:57:53 -0600 Sun, 16 Dec 2001 08:57:49 -0600 Subject: RE: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Dave, Glad to see you're back! We were worried about you... Zonealarm has a Freeware version that I've been running for months... Iprobably should pay and upgrade to the pro version as the freebie version isawesome so the $$ version must be a lot better. They are so prolific intheir sales promotions, I've just been waiting for a deal too good to passup to upgrade. There are many programs now that install spyware on your machine and aprogram like zonealarm is really advised to help you block some of the crapcoming at us. Regards, Darrell LeeAnglers Collectibles Exchangehttp://www.vfish.netInfo & Int'l Line: (323)465-4551 ==================Angling, collecting & rod making books at:http://www.vfish.net/files/acebooks7.PDF================== -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Art, The Chronicle page must be down, if you go to www.yahoo.com andtypein WNAD.EXE you will get several hits ( 55 ) all explaining the "TrojanHorse / SpyWare" Twistedhumor.com loaded on millions of computers as afundraiser for Sept 11, but now refuses to comment on! PS, The music download software from www.swapnut.com has the same"Spyware"in it and it's a product of www.RankYou.com Check it out, another reason toinstall a FireWall to protect you from these HACKS! Here's a link to the FireWall I use: http://www.zonealarm.com/ sure thereare free FireWall's out there but you usually get what you pay for... * * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------------------* * * * * * * * * *-------- ----------------------------------* * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------------- -----* * * * * * * * * *------------------------------------------* * * * * * * * * * --- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------" United We Stand " Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Rodswww.denverdave.net ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Dave,Can you check that Chronical URL? I get "Can't be displayed" when I try to access it.Thanks,Art from lblan@provide.net Sun Dec 16 09:27:59 2001 fBGFRxt29589 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:27:59 - for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 10:27:57 - Subject: RE: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? ZoneAlarm by itself won't prevent you from receiving, installing, orexecuting adware applications. What it will do, is warn you if a programtries to access the internet, thereby allowing you to take action to removethe adware. There are applications that work specifically on adware, some ofthese are quite often bundled with the ZoneAlarm full version promotions.And of course, just to keep things interesting for us, some of the recentworms attempt to work around ZoneAlarm's protection. ZA is such a popularpersonal firewall, it is an easy target. Larry Blan -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 9:58 AM Subject: RE: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Dave, Glad to see you're back! We were worried about you... Zonealarm has a Freeware version that I've been running for months... Iprobably should pay and upgrade to the pro version as the freebieversion isawesome so the $$ version must be a lot better. They are so prolific intheir sales promotions, I've just been waiting for a deal too good to passup to upgrade. There are many programs now that install spyware on your machine and aprogram like zonealarm is really advised to help you block someof the crapcoming at us. Regards, Darrell Lee -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 4:47 AM Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Art, The Chronicle page must be down, if you go to www.yahoo.com and typein WNAD.EXE you will get several hits ( 55 ) all explaining the "TrojanHorse / SpyWare" Twistedhumor.com loaded on millions of computers as afundraiser for Sept 11, but now refuses to comment on! PS, The music download software from www.swapnut.com has the same"Spyware"in it and it's a product of www.RankYou.com Check it out, another reason toinstall a FireWall to protect you from these HACKS! Here's a link to the FireWall I use: http://www.zonealarm.com/ sure thereare free FireWall's out there but you usually get what you pay for... Take Care, Dave Denver Dave's Vintage Bamboo Rods ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Software Loaded On Your Computer Without Premission? Hi Dave,Can you check that Chronical URL? I get "Can't be displayed" when I try to access it.Thanks,Art from goodaple@cox-internet.com Sun Dec 16 09:33:02 2001 fBGFX1t29842 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:33:01 -0600 (InterMail vK.4.02.00.10 201-232-116-110 licensedd72657b95c070b1853187e4f5a0d6a7) Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Peter, As I understand it, it allows for a transfer of energy experienced from one section to another. The ferrules kind of create a rigid point inthe rod and the tabs help to transfer some of the stress at this point. Ilike the tabs for that reason. Hope this helps. Randall G. NW AR.----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Silk on Ferrules Hello AJ When I first started making bamboo rods, which isn't all that many rods ago, I was under the impression that it was structurally necessary to "crown"ferrule serrations; not sure why, but I thought it was adurability/continuity thing. The last couple of rods, I have just polished the tabs and tapered themdown very fine, and I like the look much better. I still have this kind of thing that the serrations have to be there. Still not entirely sure justwhy. So is there any reason at all for having the serrated tabs, other thantradition? Or, perhaps putting it another way, any reason for NOT havingthem? Assuming, I guess, that you don't like the look of crowned ferrules,in which case they obviously have to be there. Peter from lblan@provide.net Sun Dec 16 09:55:44 2001 fBGFtht00262 for ; Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:55:43 - Subject: RE: Stanley/ Bailey planes Leonard Bailey held the original patent rights to the Bailey design. Stanleybought the patent rights in the late 1860's. The one with the grooves on thebottom is a "corrugated" plane. The grooves were supposed to reducefrictionor suction on the sole. The model number should be a 4C, the "C" standing with them, but from what I have heard, they were considered to have been oflesser quality than a Stanley. My advice is to sharpen them and use them. Do not start asking questions. Itis the beginning of a very slippery slope indeed. Next, you will findyourself hanging out on the Neanderthal forums, and trying to keep up hereas well. You think flyrods are an expensive hobby? Ha! We don't hold acandle to plane collectors. Let me give you a bit of a push though... http://almond.srv.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html - The Electronic NeanderthalLarry Blan-----Original Message----- Subject: Stanley/ Bailey planes Sitting out here in the shop, I happened to eyeball some of my planes that Ihave ha