from WayneCatt@aol.com Thu Feb 2 08:32:25 1995 Subject: 95 Eastern Gathering Tenitive plans are being made for a June 23 -24 (1995) get together at the Fly Factory Clubhouse in Grayling, Mi. For the last 4 years this gettogether has been held in the East (Carlisle Pa) area. This way it will give those living in the Midwest a better chance of attending and Ron and I a breakfrom the 28 hours on the road. In years past there have been about 45 attend the annual event. Any Comments or questions would be appreciated - after allthis gathering is intended for folks like yourself. Wayne Wayne Catt@AOL or The Planing Form P.O.Box 365 Hasting, Mi from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Thu Feb 2 09:27:54 1995 Subject: Nodeless construction A friend and I are getting ready to make our first cane rods. He's a machinist and I'm a weekend woodworker, so its a good collaboration to this point. Anyway, I've got Wayne's book and he has another book. Neither describes nodeless construction. I'm wondering how it works; i.e. what kind of joint or splice do you use between the abutting strips? Does it have any advantages in the finished rod? Which books describe it? ...................................................................... Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is better Information and Media Technologies than a waterproof coat and a Univ Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke, stetzer@csd.uwm.edu "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from reed@speedy.palette.com Thu Feb 2 10:40:54 1995 Subject: Re: 95 Eastern Gathering I got a lot out of the 94 gathering and will look forward to more info onthe 95. The bull sessions were the highpoint for me. I look forward to seeingthe folks again. Please send the game plan as it evolves. reed curry reed@palette.com from michael Thu Feb 2 10:47:53 1995 Subject: Re: Nodeless construction Frank was saying... A friend and I are getting ready to make our first cane rods. He's a machinist and I'm a weekend woodworker, so its a good collaboration to this point. A match made in heaven, I'd say!!! :-) I was even thinking about taking some basic machine shop classes so I could do it myself!!! :-) Anyway, I've got Wayne's book and he has another book. Neither describes nodeless construction. I'm wondering how it works; i.e. what kind of joint or splice do you use between the abutting strips? Does it have any advantages in the finished rod? Which books describe it? As I recall, Garrison book, A Master's Guide to Bamboo Rodmaking, has good write up on forming splices, and mentions that he has built nodeless rods. Mike Biondo michael@wupsych.wustl.edu from WayneCatt@aol.com Thu Feb 2 14:53:01 1995 Subject: Gathering Description I have been asked what the rodmakers gatherings are like - so here goes. The gatherings are for those that are interested in bamboo rodmaking orthat think they might be. And it is a good opportunity to meet like minded individuals. In the past we have asked for volunteers to put on talks and slide showson general rodmaking issues as well as special interests(spiral made rods -glue formulations - and rodmaking equipment). The idea is to have somethingfor everyone from the information seeker to the advanced. Personally it is a time when I get to see many of the friends that I have made over the years but see only once or twice a year. This last weekend I stayed with the Demarests and they sound like they will be able to makeit. This is also a time to see the works of many makers and to cast theirrods, share tapers, & tell stories. And the fishing at this time of the year isn't all that bad either- the Hex hatch normally starts June 17th.Grayling isthe home of the AuSable and the Manistee is only 7 mile away. What more can I tell you - the more that show up the better it is for all. I would quess that the following would be there for sure Ron Barch Myself - Matt - Lyndi Harold and Eileen Demarest Larry (Mouseman) Blan Sam Surre Carlos Santos(Charlottesville, Va) Marlene (IHT Rod Co) Osborn - You'll have to ask her what it means Ken Rongey Bob Braendle Mike Ells and several others that I don't want to put on the spot Wayne from johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu Fri Feb 3 12:17:30 1995 Subject: Payne tapers If there is sufficient interest I can provide tapers for Payne 8 foot medium slow #5 and 9 foot #6 fast action 3 piece rods. John Friedman from johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu Fri Feb 3 12:33:10 1995 Subject: Payne Tapers Cont. It looks like there is interest so we need to decide how to measure. I can give micrometer readings every X inches from grip forward to tip top but need a concensus on the value of X. John Friedman from johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu Fri Feb 3 12:49:40 1995 Subject: PayneTapers #3 OK, I will measure the rods starting with tip top down every five inches and give these values say next week. from reed@speedy.palette.com Fri Feb 3 14:04:38 1995 Subject: A Taper I sent this taper to the FF list a few months ago. I will try to send one per week if anyone is interested. ********************************************** The following is the taper taken from an F.E. Thomas "Dirigo", 9', 3pc., 6wt., 5.75 oz rod. Rod was built ca. 1930 with full intermediates of six winds spaced from 3/8" at the tip to 1 5/16" at the butt. The varnish is thin so a deduction of .001" from the numbers below might be applicable. The 96.25" measurement is the end of the signature wraps 2" from the grip. Due to the presence of winds, placement of the measuring points may be accurate to only +/- .25". Inches Thous 0 .059 5 .088 10 .100 15 .133 20 .145 25 .153 30 .169 35 .185 Ferr .185 40 .195 45 .215 50 .231 55 .245 60 .247 65 .259 70 .270 Ferr .270 Ferr .285 75 .290 80 .312 85 .325 90 .339 95 .367 96.25 .385 ******************************************************* You will note that the diameter is measured across flats, starting at thetip, at 5" intervals. Five inches has come to be a standard spacing among hand-planers. Tapers may be sent to me at reed@palette.com Thank you, reed curry from michael Fri Feb 3 15:47:30 1995 Subject: Re: A Taper Reed seez... I sent this taper to the FF list a few months ago. I will try to send oneper week if anyone is interested. Please do Reed, I for one would be very interested in seeing them. Thanks... Mike- from michael Fri Feb 3 16:14:08 1995 Subject: Rodmaking Books Here is a list of books that I know of on Bamboo Rodmaking. Any others that anyone knows of... Mike- =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Handcrafting Bamboo Fly Rods - Wayne Cattanach A Master's Guide to Building Bamboo Flyrods - Everett Garrison How to make Bamboo Fly Rods - George W. Barnes Bamboo Fly Rods - Claude Krieder The Angler's Workshop - Letcher Lambuth How to Build Own Split Cane Fishing Rod - G. Lawton Moss from reed@speedy.palette.com Fri Feb 3 14:04:38 1995 Subject: A Taper I sent this taper to the FF list a few months ago. I will try to send one per week if anyone is interested. ********************************************** The following is the taper taken from an F.E. Thomas "Dirigo", 9', 3pc., 6wt., 5.75 oz rod. Rod was built ca. 1930 with full intermediates of six winds spaced from 3/8" at the tip to 1 5/16" at the butt. The varnish is thin so a deduction of .001" from the numbers below might be applicable. The 96.25" measurement is the end of the signature wraps 2" from the grip. Due to the presence of winds, placement of the measuring points may be accurate to only +/- .25". Inches Thous 0 .059 5 .088 10 .100 15 .133 20 .145 25 .153 30 .169 35 .185 Ferr .185 40 .195 45 .215 50 .231 55 .245 60 .247 65 .259 70 .270 Ferr .270 Ferr .285 75 .290 80 .312 85 .325 90 .339 95 .367 96.25 .385 ******************************************************* You will note that the diameter is measured across flats, starting at thetip, at 5" intervals. Five inches has come to be a standard spacing among hand-planers. Tapers may be sent to me at reed@palette.com Thank you, reed curry from tert@cc.uib.no Sat Feb 4 09:44:40 1995 Subject: Re: Rodmaking Books Here is a list of books that I know of on Bamboo Rodmaking. Any others that anyone knows of... Mike- =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Handcrafting Bamboo Fly Rods - Wayne Cattanach A Master's Guide to Building Bamboo Flyrods - Everett Garrison How to make Bamboo Fly Rods - George W. Barnes Bamboo Fly Rods - Claude Krieder The Angler's Workshop - Letcher Lambuth How to Build Own Split Cane Fishing Rod - G. Lawton Moss Stangbygging - Preben Torp Jakobsen (in Danish) --Terje Tveras, Univ. of Bergen, Norway tert@cc.uib.no from rcurry@jlc.net Sun Feb 5 17:37:51 1995 Subject: Reaming cork grips I was reaming a new cork grip (to fit John Friedman's new 4wt) last night when I thought that I might tell the list of my approach on this matter. I purchase coarse rock-tumbling grit from a hobby supply store, $5 for a large bag. I then coat an old cane midsection with "carpenter's glue" and roll the coated part in a pile of the grit; shaking off any excess. I prepare an old butt section in like manner. Once dry these make the best tapered reamers available; you twirl the cork grip (what will be the butt end toward you) slowly down the taper of the mid, without forcing it, then you proceed to use the butt section in a similar manner. In just a few minutes you will have sized the grip to fit the new rod. reed curry reed@palette.com from ae684@detroit.freenet.org Sun Feb 5 22:39:20 1995 Subject: Re: Reaming cork grips Quoting Reed: I was reaming a new cork grip (to fit John Friedman's new 4wt) last night when I thought that I might tell the list of my approach on this matter. I purchase coarse rock-tumbling grit from a hobby supply store, $5 for a large bag. I then coat an old cane midsection with "carpenter's glue" and roll the coated part in a pile of the grit; shaking off any excess. I prepare an old butt section in like manner. Once dry these make the best tapered reamers available; you twirl the cork grip (what will be the butt end toward you) slowly down the taper of the mid, without forcing it,then you proceed to use the butt section in a similar manner. In just a few minutes you will have sized the grip to fit the new rod. I have used this method with fiberglass sections chucked into the lathe. It works great. One word of caution however; if one of those pieces of grit sticks inside the grip, it will leave a _very_ unsightly gouge in the wood. -- Larry Blan ae684@detroit.freenet.org _____________________________________________ from tert@cc.uib.no Mon Feb 6 04:07:50 1995 Subject: Re: Reaming cork grips I was reaming a new cork grip (to fit John Friedman's new 4wt) last night when I thought that I might tell the list of my approach on this matter. I purchase coarse rock-tumbling grit from a hobby supply store, $5 for a large bag. I then coat an old cane midsection with "carpenter's glue" and roll the coated part in a pile of the grit; shaking off any excess. I prepare an old butt section in like manner. Once dry these make the best tapered reamers available; you twirl the cork grip (what will be the butt end toward you) slowly down the taper of the mid, without forcing it,then you proceed to use the butt section in a similar manner. In just a few minutes you will have sized the grip to fit the new rod. reed curry reed@palette.com I also use this approach, only I first drill out the hole in the grip so that the hole is about halv a millimeter smaller than it should be at the forward end. Then I use a butt section cane where I have folded a long strip of grit paper (or whatever you call it) and fastened it with a piece of tape on each end. The grit paper can easily be changed when it is worn out. Drilling in cork must be done very cautiously. Use gradually bigger and brigger size of the drill and follow the path of the hole already made. If not, the edge of the holes may be damaged, and another effect may be an off-centered hole. Adusting the handle this way takes five minutes. --Terje Tveras, Univ. of Bergen, Norway tert@cc.uib.no from michael Mon Feb 6 09:23:52 1995 Subject: Re: Reaming cork grips Neat idea Reed!!! Mike- from reed@speedy.palette.com Mon Feb 6 09:30:22 1995 Subject: Re: Rodmaking Books I'd like to add to the list of good books on cane rodmaking: Amateur Rodmaking by Frazer First published in 1914 and reprinted many times (my copy is 1949), thisbook has a lot of good historical info as well as sections on various wood rods.Some good ideas in here. reed curry reed@palette.com rcurry@jlc.net from tert@cc.uib.no Mon Feb 6 10:04:48 1995 Subject: Re: Rodmaking Books Amateur Rodmaking by Frazer First published in 1914 and reprinted many times (my copy is 1949), thisbook has a lot of good historical info as well as sections on various wood rods. reed curry Does it describe the pre-cane rods too? I am particularely thinking of the rods made by the London tackle makers in 1800-1850. --Terje Tveras, Univ. of Bergen, Norway tert@cc.uib.no from reed@speedy.palette.com Mon Feb 6 10:24:49 1995 Subject: Re: Rodmaking Books Terje, Yes, there is info on pre-cane. As well as discussing the virtues ofvarious woods, Frazer gives instructions for building different wood rods. reed reed@palette.com from rcurry@jlc.net Sun Feb 12 11:48:46 1995 Subject: Another taper The following is taken from a rob a-building for John Friedman, list-member. I did not build this from the culm (alas, I would be most proud if I had); rather the tips came from one contemporary rodmaker (Ron Mckinley) andthe butt is a 1958 run from Sam Carlson, when he was still looking at 6-sided.I have intentionally made the length 8'2" in order to get the Garrison style grip up onto the swelled butt and still have the nice match at the ferrules. Taper for 8'2" 2/2 4dt. 1" .068 5" .073 10" .087 15" .100 20" .118 25" .129 30" .140 35" .158 40" .170 45" .185 47.5" .192 Length of tips with ferrules 49.25" 51.5" .198 55" .202 60" .214 65" .227 70" .249 75" .272 80" .303 85" .334 90" .453 Top of grip reed curry rcurry@jlc.net reed@palette.com from Bob356@aol.com Wed Feb 15 14:53:54 1995 Subject: Pen for Inscribing New Rods While shopping for a Valentine's Day card at a local Hallmark shop, I founda Marvy Uchida Liquid Gold Opaque Paint Marker, No. 200, fine point, by DecoColor. This is similar to a technical pen, and is available in gold, silver, black, and assorted colors. It also is available in a broad point. Cost is about US$3, and it claims to "permanently cover nearly anysurface, and is weatherproof". Anyone have any experience with this for inscribing new rods? I plan to dull the finish on my Sage 586LL blank with steelwool, inscribe it with this pen, then cover it with FlexCoat after it dries. Any comments? Bob Joyce Bob356@aol.com Knoxville, Tennessee USA from johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu Wed Feb 15 16:18:30 1995 Subject: Payne Rod Tapers As I promised last week, here are the tapers from my Payne rods. I hope they prove useful. John Friedman Payne Tapers from BNUTTALL@FIDO.MM.UKY.EDU Thu Feb 16 10:51:44 1995 Subject: Taking the plunge Folks, OK, I have taken the plunge and ordered a Pacific Bay blank for a 9-foot 7-weight rod. I am going to be receiving a package very soon with glues, guides, reel seats, an instruction book, and others. There have been several posts to the FLYFISH list recently on finding the spline of a blank. Now, two questions: 1) When you find the spline by rolling the blank, and you locate where it "jumps", is the spline then on the top or the bottom? 2) Should you find the spline for each individual rod section, or the whole blank? Or, should you do it for each section, assemble the blank, thencheck Also, this is my first project; start-up costs (books, glues, brushes, and other supplies) are mounting. How essential is a drying motor? Brandon C. Nuttall K K GGGG SSSS BNUTTALL@FIDO.MM.UKY.EDU Kentucky Geological Survey KKK G SS (606) 257-5500 University of Kentucky KKK G GG SS 228 Mining & Mineral Resources Bldg K K GGGG SSSS Lexington, Kentucky 40506-0107 from elb@telemark.cs.utah.edu Thu Feb 16 13:16:44 1995 Subject: Re: Taking the plunge Also, this is my first project; start-up costs (books, glues, brushes, and other supplies) are mounting. How essential is a drying motor? My experience is that turning the rod is essential to get a really smooth finish on the flex-coat (assuming that you are using something like flex-coat on the guide wraps). However, I didn't spend a lot of money on the drying motor. What I did was go to a local thrift store and buy a 50 cent electric alarm clock that had a second hand. I then glued a small dowel to the second hand and attached the rod to that dowel. I put a couple casters together on a board to sit the rest of the rod in so that it could turn, plugged in the clock, and let the clock rotate the rod at one rev/minute. Actually, this broke down after a while (the second hand came off) so for later rods I took the clock apart and just used the motor that was inside the clock by itself by mounting it on a piece of scrap wood. Seems to work just as well (maybe even better since the motor itself goes slightly faster. The second hand was apparently geared down a little). I've also heard of people using rotisserie motors from old barbeques for drying motors. The point is that a small, cheap, low rmp, motor shouldn't be that hard to find. -Erik -------- Erik Brunvand Email: brunvand@cs.utah.edu Assistant Professor, Computer Science Phone: (801)581-4345 University of Utah, SLC, UT 84112 Fax: (801)581-5843 http://www.cs.utah.edu/~elb from YE67@MUSIC.FERRIS.EDU Fri Feb 17 10:40:23 1995 Subject: Mike Ells Here - 17 Feb. To Mike Biondo (and others interested). Remember our conversation re: splitting the culm inth 1/4" wide pieces and mine had a tendency to wander? You had read in a book that that can be controlled. Well... I spent almost 2 hours with Wayne last night and YES IT CAN BE CONTRO LLED!!!!!!!!!! It is almost something that cannot be described - only seen and done. I watched Wayne do it and then he handed it to me and told me to do it - and I didn't want to ruin his stuff!!!! Anyway, I did it and it worked. It goes sort of like this. First you must remember to keep the bamboo fro (knife) perpendicular to the bamboo! Second, imagine the culm in front of you and you are holding it in your left hand and splitting with your right in a right to left motion. If the side closest to you is getting fatter and the side farthest from you is getting thinner, press your left thumb into the culm to apply pressure (push the culm away from your body) and with the fro, apply pressure with the back (blunt) edge to the