from richjez@enteract.com Mon Jul 27 22:02:45 1998 At 09:33 PM 7/27/98 -0500, you wrote:What is with all these no subject/no message messages????? I haveabout 6or 8 of these, is it something wrong with my server, or am I missing thejoke? John Channer *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @ /||/______/_||_________________________________________|| /\ / \ > > from richjez@enteract.com Mon Jul 27 22:04:53 1998 At 09:46 PM 7/27/98 -0500, you wrote:To All I have scanned the Roscoe Gathering Poster - I have reduced it as faras I can to get the size down to send via the listserver. I believe that Istillretained enough detail to read. Again Kim has done an excellent job again with her artwork. Chris from timklein@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 27 22:36:45 1998 No, the rod design program seems to work fine for me. I did have trouble with the leader maker program though. I get an errormessage whenever I try to run the setup program. Tim--- from channer@hubwest.com Tue Jul 28 00:28:27 1998 John Channer from channer@hubwest.com Tue Jul 28 00:34:28 1998 Rich and Tim:Was there a message that went with your reply's to Chris? All I got was arepeat of the 2 posts from Chris, but no message from you guys included. Ithink we are having technical difficulties. John from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Tue Jul 28 02:56:47 1998 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id TAA24721 for ;Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:56:34+1200 Subject: Re: John and Davy , It must be a Server problem , same difficulty here regards iankAt 10:13 PM 27/07/98 CDT, you wrote:-----Original Message-----From: gwilson@shaw.wave.ca Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 7:22 PM Does anyone know why I am receiving these messages with absolutely notext,or very little? It's only the postings from this list. Is this happeningto anybody else? Davy Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from OBorge@aiss.uic.edu Tue Jul 28 05:37:04 1998 Subject: RE: Bob Summers recommends the use of Ivory soapas a ferrule lubricant. I have tried it and it does seem tohelp with tight ferrules. Olaf BorgeSystems Programmer/System SoftwareUniversity of Illinois/AISS/CNO312/996-5212 -----Original Message-----From: stetzer@csd.uwm.edu [SMTP:stetzer@csd.uwm.edu]Sent: Monday, July 27, 1998 9:40 PM Subject: I tried the behind-the-knees pull and only managed to pop a guide out from its wrap and imbed the guide foot in my hand. Then I triedice (on the ferrule, not my hand). Finally, heat from an alcohol lampdid the trick. I heated for maybe three second then tried, then threeseconds more and it popped. My theory is that we keep the male slide nice and clean but neglectthe female. Also the humidity is no doubt a factor. Good luck.-------------Frank Stetzer On Sat, 25 Jul 1998, Mike Fennell wrote: Due to the hot humid weather here in East Tennessee, problems withferrules becoming stuck are bothering me. I have tried the twopersontwo hand pull method and applying a cold compress(ice gel bag) tothemale ferrule with no luck. Can someone please help this poor olemtn'boy? from destinycon@mindspring.com Tue Jul 28 06:52:22 1998 Subject: Re: At 09:33 PM 7/27/98 CDT, you wrote:What is with all these no subject/no message messages????? I haveabout 6or 8 of these, is it something wrong with my server, or am I missing thejoke? John Channer I'm in the same boat. hope it's worked out soon.Gary H. from flyfisher@cmix.com Tue Jul 28 06:55:54 1998 Don B. RO>John and Davy ,RO>It must be a Server problem , same difficulty here RO>regards RO>iankRO>At 10:13 PM 27/07/98 CDT, you wrote:RO>>-----Original Message-----RO>>From: gwilson@shaw.wave.ca RO>>Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 7:22 PMRO>>RO>>RO>>RO>>RO>>RO>>RO>>Does anyone know why I am receiving these messages with absolutelyno text,RO>>or very little? It's only the postings from this list. Is this happeningRO>>to anybody else?RO>>RO>>DavyRO>>RO>>RO>>RO>Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556RO>104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374RO>RichmondRO>New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from DEMARALON@aol.com Tue Jul 28 07:44:28 1998 Subject: Re: Rodbuilder in Quebec Area Suggest you contact Terry Ackland at hexagon@odyssee.net.Eileen Demarest, Charles H. Demarest, Inc. from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue Jul 28 07:47:50 1998 (may be forged)) Subject: Re: RO>At 09:33 PM 7/27/98 CDT, you wrote:RO>>What is with all these no subject/no message messages????? I haveabout 6RO>>or 8 of these, is it something wrong with my server, or am I missingtheRO>joke?RO>>RO>>John ChannerRO>>RO>>RO>I'm in the same boat. hope it's worked out soon.RO>Gary H. I think that the Roscoe Info that Chris tried to send got converted toand sent as a Hex Dump. Embedded in that must be some instructions thatreally upset the server. Maybe a dose of Pepto Bisomal would solve theproblem Dick Fuhrman from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Jul 28 08:04:39 1998 boito.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id JAA21029 for; Tue, 28 Subject: FW: Empty messages I too have been receiving many messages with no subject and no text.Anyonewho has posted something in the last 48 hours should repost. Richard -----Original Message----- channer@hubwest.com Subject: What is with all these no subject/no message messages????? I haveabout 6or 8 of these, is it something wrong with my server, or am I missing thejoke? John Channer from michael@wugate.wustl.edu Tue Jul 28 09:06:07 1998 Subject: Re: FW: Empty messages I too have been receiving many messages with no subject and no text.Anyonewho has posted something in the last 48 hours should repost. No need to repost. The server is alive and well. It appears most of theempty messages were from the same address...probably someone new,trying tofigure out email. ORN (Obligatory Rodmaking Note) Started Wayne's 6'3" 4WT; that makes*three* rods in progress now; if I ever decide to come up with a logo itshould probably read: Procrastination Rod Co. Mike BiondoRODMAKERS Listguy from dmanders@ccinet.ab.ca Tue Jul 28 09:25:34 1998 Subject: Re: Depth of Groove for a Stanley 9 1/2 George wrote: Perhaps I stated it poorly. If the sole is not grooved the iron mustproject belowthe bottom of the sole in order to cut, otherwise the cutting edge isabove thematerial you are trying to plane. If the plane is grooved, the iron must project into the groove or it willnot cut.Again the cutting edge will be above the material you are trying to cut. My point was that a 0.003" depth of groove will not increase thedimension ofstrips being planed 0.003". The maximum, if it really happens at all, willbe0.003" minus the amount that the blade projects into the groove. George The above is exactly what I said in the first note I sent about grooves. Ifyou groove your plane - you have to allow for the groove in your forms. Don from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Jul 28 10:28:52 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Daily dumb question Steve,I personally don't know of anyone with used forms, but you might eithermake your own, or check with John Lintvet. He has a used tool page on hiswebsite. The address is on Rodbuilders at Munro Rod Company.Wish I could be more help.Harry Boyd Steve Stillabower wrote: Hi All, O.K., time for my daly dumb question - anyone know of some decent usedplaning forms for sale? And/or other "necessitites" for that matter? Just trying to get the ducks in a row. SteveSteve and Julie StillabowerIndianapolis, INsjstill@indy.net"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman,tryingto outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, andgettinglicked in the process."Paul O'Neil from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Jul 28 10:32:35 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Depth of Groove for a Stanley 9 1/2 Speaking of grooves, I have a strange scenario. I grooved the sole of oneof myplanes to a depth of .002" as measured carefully with my dial indicatordepthguage. I can easily get a shaving of .004" without my plane cutting intotheform. Maybe you guys can figure it out. I sure can't, but then that's not allthat unusual. Harry Boyd Don Andersen wrote: George wrote: Perhaps I stated it poorly. If the sole is not grooved the iron mustproject belowthe bottom of the sole in order to cut, otherwise the cutting edge isabove thematerial you are trying to plane. If the plane is grooved, the iron must project into the groove or it willnot cut.Again the cutting edge will be above the material you are trying to cut. My point was that a 0.003" depth of groove will not increase thedimension ofstrips being planed 0.003". The maximum, if it really happens at all,will be0.003" minus the amount that the blade projects into the groove. George The above is exactly what I said in the first note I sent about grooves. Ifyou groove your plane - you have to allow for the groove in your forms. Don from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Jul 28 10:35:08 1998 (1.37.109.24/16.2) id AA027150106; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:35:06 -0700 Subject: RE: (Daily dumb question) Planing Forms Steve, I don't know of anything used, but there are some planing forms available at lower prices. I can only speak of the Colorado Bootstrap forms. I'm working on the first rod for these forms and things are progressing well. Adjustments are quick and easy. I think they are $350 or $375 and that includes shipping. There is another forms maker in Canada as well, that others on the list know of. Good luck. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Jul 28 10:55:22 1998 boito.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id LAA05628 for; Tue, 28 Subject: FW: (Daily dumb question) Planing Forms Does anyone know the names and perhaps coordinates of the Canadianmakers ofplaning forms Christopher is refer to? Thanks Richard (in Montreal, Quebec, Canada) -----Original Message----- MCDOWELL Subject: RE: (Daily dumb question) Planing Forms Steve, I don't know of anything used, but there are some planing forms availableat lower prices. I can only speak of the Colorado Bootstrap forms. I'mworking on the first rod for these forms and things are progressing well.Adjustments are quick and easy. I think they are $350 or $375 and thatincludes shipping. There is another forms maker in Canada as well, thatothers on the list know of. Good luck. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Jul 28 11:02:03 1998 (1.37.109.24/16.2) id AA067081721; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:02:01 -0700 Subject: RE: Planing Forms Richard, I didn't give details because I was going on memory, but until someone comes through with better information here is what I remember. The person's name is Lon "something" and I think the business in Grindstone Anglers. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Jul 28 11:05:35 1998 (1.37.109.24/16.2) id AA071811933; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:05:33 -0700 Subject: Grindstone Anglers Richard, Here is some more recall. John Valk is the owner of Grindstone Anglersand the location is Waterdown, Ontario. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from sniderja@email.uc.edu Tue Jul 28 11:23:13 1998 Subject: Garrett Wade (sp?) Does Garrett Wade (sp?) have a web page? If so, anyone have the address?Jerry Snider from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Jul 28 11:28:59 1998 Subject: Re: Depth of Groove for a Stanley 9 1/2 My point was that a 0.003" depth of groove will not increase thedimension ofstrips being planed 0.003". The maximum, if it really happens at all, willbe0.003" minus the amount that the blade projects into the groove. George The above is exactly what I said in the first note I sent about grooves. Ifyou groove your plane - you have to allow for the groove in your forms. Suppose you have a groove .003 deep, and your blade projectsinto the groove .003, bringing the cutting edge just flush withthe ungrooved portion of the sole. Granted, if your blade only projects .002 into the groove thenyour strip will be .001 oversized, and that is what I do - theexcess is taken off when I scrape the glue off after glue up. Darryl Hayashida from sjstill@indy.net Tue Jul 28 11:34:25 1998 Subject: Re: Garrett Wade (sp?) At 12:22 7/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Does Garrett Wade (sp?) have a web page? If so, anyone have the address?Jerry Snider www.garrettwade.com Steve and Julie StillabowerIndianapolis, INsjstill@indy.net from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Tue Jul 28 12:04:08 1998 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id MAA15403 for; Tue, (8.8.4/8.6.8) with SMTP idMAA26912 for ; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 12:04:06 Subject: grooved soles, another question The discussion of grooved soles reminded me of this question I hadabout plane cutting geometry. I've got two planes with grooved soles, one shallow and one deep.Why wouldn't it work just as well to groove just the adjustablepiece at the toe of the plane, and leave the rest of the planesole flat? I can see two advantages. First, you can have one planewith interchangeable toe pieces, with different groove depths, aslong as they were both milled to be "flat" with the rest of the plane.Second, especially with the deeper grooves, this would put pressureon the strip just behind the blade, which is otherwise free to move. If the strip bows upward behind the blade, say because the blade is not super sharp or the mouth set too large, this could be the cause of cutting a .007 thickness shaving with a .005 bladedepth. This second point would seem to hold for ungrooved planesoles as well. The Fine Woodworking book on "Planes and Chisels" has some discussionof plane cutting geometry, and as I recall different experts cameto different conclusions.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from DEMARALON@aol.com Tue Jul 28 12:45:20 1998 Subject: Re: Planing Forms The person's name for planing forms is Lon Blauvelt. He can be reached at15Town Landing Rd., Falmouth, Naine 04105 - Tel: 207 781-5235 Harold Demarest, Charles H. Demarest, Inc. from rmoon@ida.net Tue Jul 28 13:01:27 1998 Subject: Re: Planing Forms Bob Clark in Lewiston Idahomakes a great form. Colorado Bootstrap formsare about the best value (pricevs. quality) on the market. However, whynot go whole hob and check out Thoimas Penrose planing forms. It seemsto me that 20-40- hours making the form is but small preparation formaking rods. Much cheaper as well. The Bamboo Rod Magazine has a twopart article on Tom and then there is his website with some great stuffhttp://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Coffeehouse/5262/home.htm from Fishinstix@aol.com Tue Jul 28 13:55:18 1998 Subject: Re: Planing Forms I made Mr. Penrose' forms. If you have a little attention for detail ( whichin this gig you have to) and dont mind sore fingers from filing, then theywere not too bad. About $25 bucks and some time. They work like champs.Themore detailed you get, the more accurate they are. But I can see how youcouldproduce some real dogs if not careful.Mark Mills from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Jul 28 14:01:03 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Planing Forms I don't know anything about Lon Blauvelt's forms, but I thought seriouslyabout forms from John Valk before making my own. Below is a repeat ofsomecorrespondence between John and myself which some of you may findhelpful. Harry Harry Boyd wrote: .... mentioned that you supply metal planing forms. Would you sendme the details; form design, length, materials, adjustment, price,etc.? Thank you, Harry Boydfbcwin@fsbnet.comHarry , Thanks for your inquiry.The planing forms are made of coldrolled steel 60" long by a local machinist who is also a rodbuilder.Thetaper design on the tipside is .030 to .090 and on the butt .090 to .150with push/pull screws and dowels on 5" centres.Additional screws@2.5"centres for 1st 30" to controll tip tapers or to create accuracy ofswell on butt section have also been added.Shipping and insurance haveyet to be determined depending on your location.I am going to find outif these can be shipped through the postal system.If so they should beunder $34.00 cdn.anumber of our local rodbuilders are now using them,Including Ted Knott and Ron Barch in Michigan and they seem quite happy.Thanks John Valk 905-689-0880 Grindstone Angling. DEMARALON@aol.com wrote: The person's name for planing forms is Lon Blauvelt. He can be reachedat 15Town Landing Rd., Falmouth, Naine 04105 - Tel: 207 781-5235 Harold Demarest, Charles H. Demarest, Inc. from flyfisher@cmix.com Tue Jul 28 14:06:33 1998 Subject: Re: Garrett Wade (sp?) Jerry, Open your browser and go to this page:http://www.cmix.com/links/searchers.html-ssi It's a darn good search page for when you don't know an URL. Don Burns PS - Beat the heat all - fish a cool mountain trout stream! RO>At 12:22 7/28/98 -0400, you wrote:RO>>Does Garrett Wade (sp?) have a web page? If so, anyone have theaddress?RO>>Jerry Snider RO>www.garrettwade.comRO>Steve and Julie StillabowerRO>Indianapolis, INRO>>sjstill@indy.net"There he stands, draped in more equipment than a telephone lineman,tryingRO>to outwit an organism with a brain no bigger than a breadcrumb, andgettingRO>licked in the process."RO> Paul O'Neil from flyfisher@cmix.com Tue Jul 28 14:17:23 1998 Subject: DGB's non-rodmaking question All, Related to the request by Jerry S. for the G. Wade URL - I've got aquestion. I recently upgraded to Netscape 4.0 (don't know if the problem isrelated to the upgrade) - and have noted that even with Netscape openand running that I can't click on an URL in email and automaticly go tothe URL. I used to be able to to this. What's wrong, not set right or broke? Note: I also have Explorer on my system since AOL insists that Idownload it. It won't do the auto loading either. Thanks for any ideas, Don Burns from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Jul 28 14:27:01 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question In a message dated 7/28/98 10:06:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,stetzer@csd.uwm.edu writes: Why wouldn't it work just as well to groove just the adjustablepiece at the toe of the plane, and leave the rest of the planesole flat? Sounds like something to try. Wayne C. has said that heshims the toe plate and then flattens the sole. When the shim is removed the toe plate is a little above the blade.It just so happens that I just bought a used Stanley 9 1/2. Darryl Darryl from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Jul 28 15:10:16 1998 0500 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Darryl,If you decide not to try simming the toe on that plane, I'll giveyou $6 for it, and even pay the shipping!>Harry Boyd SalarFly@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 7/28/98 10:06:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,stetzer@csd.uwm.edu writes: Why wouldn't it work just as well to groove just the adjustablepiece at the toe of the plane, and leave the rest of the planesole flat? Sounds like something to try. Wayne C. has said that heshims the toe plate and then flattens the sole. When theshim is removed the toe plate is a little above the blade.It just so happens that I just bought a used Stanley 9 1/2. Darryl Darryl from RVenneri@aol.com Tue Jul 28 15:16:41 1998 Subject: Re: Chris,The file you sent to the list of the Roscoe Poster came up as a txt file.Unable to view the poster. I would love to see it as I will be going to thegathering and would like more info.ThanksBob VVenneri's Custom Components21 Chuck Hill Rd Saugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Jul 28 15:28:13 1998 (1.37.109.24/16.2) id AA146997685; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:28:05 -0700 Subject: RE: Re: grooved soles, another question How come the used planes I come across look like they sat in a rainy field $40 or more. I understand there are plane collector's and price guides. Maybe a plane makers listserv? Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from anglport@con2.com Tue Jul 28 17:42:03 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Darryl,It seems to me (a gedanken-experiment) that the lack of "front" pressureshould allow the cane IN FRONT OF the blade to lift and tear out in thegeometry you're discussing. Maybe I'm missing some of the details but thatseems to be a perfect way to have the blade dig in in depth.Art At 03:25 PM 7/28/98 EDT, you wrote:In a message dated 7/28/98 10:06:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,stetzer@csd.uwm.edu writes: Why wouldn't it work just as well to groove just the adjustablepiece at the toe of the plane, and leave the rest of the planesole flat? Sounds like something to try. Wayne C. has said that heshims the toe plate and then flattens the sole. When the shim is removed the toe plate is a little above the blade.It just so happens that I just bought a used Stanley 9 1/2. Darryl Darryl from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Jul 28 17:58:11 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question In a message dated 7/28/98 1:14:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,fbcwin@fsbnet.comwrites: Darryl,If you decide not to try simming the toe on that plane, I'll giveyou $6 for it, and even pay the shipping!>Harry Boyd No, it's mine!! :-)Darryl from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Jul 28 18:02:27 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question In a message dated 7/28/98 1:31:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,mcdowellc@lanecc.edu writes: How come the used planes I come across look like they sat in a rainyfield $40 or more. I understand there are plane collector's and price guides. Sometimes it takes a real imaginative eye to see the "gold"under the rust. Just look carefully at the structural parts tomake sure they are still sound. The rust on the outside canbe sandpapered off. Darryl from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Jul 28 18:06:42 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question In a message dated 7/28/98 3:48:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,anglport@con2.comwrites: Darryl,It seems to me (a gedanken-experiment) that the lack of "front"pressureshould allow the cane IN FRONT OF the blade to lift and tear out in thegeometry you're discussing. Maybe I'm missing some of the details butthatseems to be a perfect way to have the blade dig in in depth.Art You could be right, but it's an interesting thing to try out. Darryl from anglport@con2.com Tue Jul 28 18:07:30 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Chris,You have to find a better class of garage sale. I often find the 9 1/2 for$5 - 12. The trouble is that you have to put in almost as much timegarage-saling as you do planing! If yo're not too fussy about the adjustablethroat you can get "off-brands" even easier.(The rainy field part isn't thatbad, but the farmer has to have a damned light tractor to make THATmodelworth it!)Art At 01:25 PM 7/28/98 PDT, you wrote:How come the used planes I come across look like they sat in a rainy field $40 or more. I understand there are plane collector's and price guides. Maybe a plane makers listserv? Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Tue Jul 28 18:30:20 1998 (BST) Subject: Re: John,Glad its happening to you. I thought I had finally lost the plotcompletely!! Probably too long away from the water?-----Original Message----- What is with all these no subject/no message messages????? I haveabout 6or 8 of these, is it something wrong with my server, or am I missing thejoke? John Channer from cbogart@shentel.net Tue Jul 28 18:31:32 1998 head.globalcom.net (8.6.12/8.6.10) with SMTP id TAA13426; Tue, 28 Jul1998 19:29:06 -0400 boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.EWTVOO138764=_=_=_"Subject: Repost of Roscoe Poster --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.EWTVOO138764=_=_=_ To All Seems the Listserver did bad things to the attachment last night. Ihave checked theattachment bysending it to another email address and it came through OK - I have viewedit back in PhotoShopand itworks fine. It should give you all a good idea and can read it eventhoughthe size is fairlysmall. The original was well over a Meg. Chris from ragnarig@integrityol.com Tue Jul 28 18:54:13 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A6491B940078; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:01:13 PDT Subject: Re: FW: Empty messages / WC 6042 ORN (Obligatory Rodmaking Note) Started Wayne's 6'3" 4WT; that makes*three* rods in progress now; if I ever decide to come up with a logo itshould probably read: Procrastination Rod Co. Dear ORNery Procrastinator Don't procrastinate too long on that 6'3". I made one last year and it'sbecome one of my favorites. If you don't look up you'll think you'recasting a much bigger rod. Davy from flyfisher@cmix.com Tue Jul 28 20:14:24 1998 Subject: Re[2]: grooved soles, another question RO>How come the used planes I come across look like they sat in a rainyfieldRO>for several years before being run over by a tractor. The price is stillRO>$40 or more. I understand there are plane collector's and price guides.RO>Maybe a plane makers listserv? Chris, Most likely because they've sat in a field for several years. I'll look around for some down here in S. CA, there's normally a few permonth at the local swap meet. Don B. PS - We've got less rain than you do. from robert.kope@MCI2000.com Tue Jul 28 20:34:29 1998 with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 29 Jul 1998 01:33:43 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Art -- This shouldn't be a problem. Remember that the strip is thicker in front ofthe blade by the depth of cut. -- Robert-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question In a message dated 7/28/98 3:48:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,anglport@con2.comwrites: Darryl,It seems to me (a gedanken-experiment) that the lack of "front"pressureshould allow the cane IN FRONT OF the blade to lift and tear out in thegeometry you're discussing. Maybe I'm missing some of the details butthatseems to be a perfect way to have the blade dig in in depth.Art You could be right, but it's an interesting thing to try out. Darryl from sats@gte.net Tue Jul 28 20:50:28 1998 Subject: Re: Myths I can say is bamboo will handle anything that I or most of us will fishfor.So this proves that bamboo is just as strong if not stronger than theplasticout there. One of the things you see down here in Florida is Bamboo Boat Rods. These arethe REAL thing. The old rods with guides on both sides of the tip sectionsoyou could "fight out" a fishing set. Used on Sword fish and Marlin. Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from channer@hubwest.com Tue Jul 28 20:52:29 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A09C6FD0222; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:53:32 MDT Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question At 07:04 PM 7/28/98 EDT, you wrote:In a message dated 7/28/98 3:48:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,anglport@con2.comwrites: Darryl,It seems to me (a gedanken-experiment) that the lack of "front"pressureshould allow the cane IN FRONT OF the blade to lift and tear out in thegeometry you're discussing. Maybe I'm missing some of the details butthatseems to be a perfect way to have the blade dig in in depth.Art You could be right, but it's an interesting thing to try out. Darryl Darryl&Art;I tried it, didn't make much difference. What happens is the plane rides upon the cane just like it does if you don't do anyting to the sole and theblade makes contact with the form when you are down to it. I usedmetallictape on the sole of my plane and just recently got around to sanding agroove in it. Having some kind of slot effect is the only way to keep theblade from making contact with the form. I don't know who came up withthis now. If I am successful in getting it truely sharp, I can rough in with oneblade and finish the whole rod out with another. But, by all means, give ita try, it might work better for you than it did for me. Just .02 John Channer from jjohnso4@bellsouth.net Tue Jul 28 21:33:38 1998 WAA28338 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question At 07:00 PM 7/28/98 EDT, Darryl wrote: Sometimes it takes a real imaginative eye to see the "gold"under the rust. Just look carefully at the structural parts tomake sure they are still sound. The rust on the outside canbe sandpapered off. Next time you've got some rusty tools to clean take a look at: http://users.interconnect.net/nlindsey/Electrolysis/Electrolysis.htm It's a whole lot easier than using sandpaper once you get set up. Cya,Johnny----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA from parkerdh@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Tue Jul 28 23:01:34 1998 with ESMTP id WAA79907 Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:01:32 -0600 (parkerdh@localhost) with SMTP id WAA40178 Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:01:28 -0600 Subject: Re: FW: (Daily dumb question) Planing Forms I can suggest the name of Walter Hoffman n Edmonton who has builtexcellent forms on the Garrison style for both me and another rod-builder.With the Canadian dollar the way it is, you could get a real bargain. David Parker On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Richard Nantel wrote: Does anyone know the names and perhaps coordinates of the Canadianmakers ofplaning forms Christopher is refer to? Thanks Richard (in Montreal, Quebec, Canada) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu CMCDOWELLSent: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 11:31 AM Subject: RE: (Daily dumb question) Planing Forms Steve, I don't know of anything used, but there are some planing forms availableat lower prices. I can only speak of the Colorado Bootstrap forms. I'mworking on the first rod for these forms and things are progressing well.Adjustments are quick and easy. I think they are $350 or $375 and thatincludes shipping. There is another forms maker in Canada as well, thatothers on the list know of. Good luck. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from teekay35@interlynx.net Tue Jul 28 23:19:36 1998 Subject: Re: Grindstone Anglers Grindstone Anglers can be reached at 905-689-0880. The forms were$300.00can. (approx. $225. US). I have two of them and they are very well made.I've made 5 or 6 rods on my forms and they have alll turned out well. ----------From: CHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL Subject: Grindstone AnglersDate: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 12:04 PM Richard, Here is some more recall. John Valk is the owner of Grindstone Anglersand the location is Waterdown, Ontario. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from tom@cet-inc.com Wed Jul 29 07:19:56 1998 0000 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question JohnnyThanks for the tip. The instructions are so clear, how could one not try it.If electrolysis works too well, the price of rusty old "tractor trodden"tools may go up. Tom Whittle -----Original Message----- Next time you've got some rusty tools to clean take a look at: http://users.interconnect.net/nlindsey/Electrolysis/Electrolysis.htm It's a whole lot easier than using sandpaper once you get set up. Cya,Johnny----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA from richjez@enteract.com Wed Jul 29 08:20:57 1998 0000 (147.126.253.18) Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Any ideas on how much to shim? My $5 9 1/2 (bought last week at 7 mile fair outside of Milwaukee.) isloose now that the rust is removed. I don't know if it is because of theCraftsman blade in it or something else. Rich Jezioro At 03:25 PM 7/28/98 -0400, you wrote:In a message dated 7/28/98 10:06:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time,stetzer@csd.uwm.edu writes: Why wouldn't it work just as well to groove just the adjustablepiece at the toe of the plane, and leave the rest of the planesole flat? Sounds like something to try. Wayne C. has said that heshims the toe plate and then flattens the sole. When the shim is removed the toe plate is a little above the blade.It just so happens that I just bought a used Stanley 9 1/2. Darryl Darryl *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @ /||/______/_||_________________________________________|| /\ / \ > > from amcsmith@nlis.net Wed Jul 29 09:22:21 1998 Subject: planing forms lon blauvelt15 town landing rdfalmouth mainephone 207-781-5235 he sells them [planing forms] don't know how they compare with theothersor the cost but give him a call i've met him and he is very nice guy. chris smithparidise poter me. from anglport@con2.com Wed Jul 29 09:39:11 1998 Subject: Re: grooved soles, another question Rich, The only looseness possibility I can find on the one in front of me isadjusted by tightening the screw through the "frog" or "cap-iron" (I can'tremember the right description of the thing. If tightening that screwdoesn't do the trick, can you further describe the looseness?Art At 08:24 AM 7/29/98 -0500, you wrote:Any ideas on how much to shim? My $5 9 1/2 (bought last week at 7 mile fair outside of Milwaukee.) isloose now that the rust is removed. I don't know if it is because of theCraftsman blade in it or something else. Rich Jezioro from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Jul 29 11:20:11 1998 0500 Subject: Southern Gathering Attendees Friends,Sorry to be so insistent with this information, but I think I mayhave lost the names of a few people who are making plans to attend theSouthern Rodmakers Gathering on October 1. My copy of Netscape Mailwas corrupted during a download, and I lost some of the Mail messagesI had previously saved.Following is a list of the names of those who I have listed asplanning to attend the SRG. If I have omitted your name, then I havelost your confirmation, and I would appreciate it if you would post(or re-post) a message to me (offline) so that I may better know howto make plans.I have written quite a number of people who aren't on this list,and expect quite a few other builders to attend. Thank you,Harry Boyd Harry Boyd (demo)Eric KoehlerRick CrenshawKurt Loup (workshop)Jody TitoneRichard TyreeTony Spezio (demo)Bill Lamberson (demo?)Don LaurenzaLeo Eck (demo)Harold and Eileen Demarest (Slide Show)Jim FreemanJohn ColeJerry BallardScott Wilson (possible) from richjez@enteract.com Wed Jul 29 15:44:18 1998 0000 (147.126.253.18) Subject: Ferrel I acquired a Montague last week. There was a loose female ferrel. When Iwent to clean it, there was no moisture cap in it.Do I need a moisture cap, if so any suggestions?Rich Jezioro *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @ /||/______/_||_________________________________________|| /\ / \ > > from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Jul 29 16:37:20 1998 (1.37.109.24/16.2) id AA286498231; Wed, 29 Jul 1998 14:37:11 -0700 Subject: RE: Ferrules Rich, I recently restored an early Montague. It too did not have moisture seals in the female ferrules and the ferrule on the butt section was also loose. I stuck a straw down the ferrule and dripped some epoxy down to thebamboo. This kept the inside walls of the ferrule free of glue, tightened everything up when dry, and created a moisture barrier in the process. Doesn't even require removal of the ferrule. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from gwbarnes@gwi.net Wed Jul 29 16:40:18 1998 Subject: Re: Depth of Groove for a Stanley 9 1/2 Sounds as if the bamboo is projecting above the planing form as it usuallydoesuntil you reach the final dimension. Harry Boyd wrote: Speaking of grooves, I have a strange scenario. I grooved the sole of oneof myplanes to a depth of .002" as measured carefully with my dial indicatordepthguage. I can easily get a shaving of .004" without my plane cutting intotheform. Maybe you guys can figure it out. I sure can't, but then that's notallthat unusual. Harry Boyd Don Andersen wrote: George wrote: Perhaps I stated it poorly. If the sole is not grooved the iron mustproject belowthe bottom of the sole in order to cut, otherwise the cutting edge isabove thematerial you are trying to plane. If the plane is grooved, the iron must project into the groove or it willnot cut.Again the cutting edge will be above the material you are trying tocut. My point was that a 0.003" depth of groove will not increase thedimension ofstrips being planed 0.003". The maximum, if it really happens at all,will be0.003" minus the amount that the blade projects into the groove. George The above is exactly what I said in the first note I sent about grooves.Ifyou groove your plane - you have to allow for the groove in your forms. Don from gwbarnes@gwi.net Wed Jul 29 16:40:26 1998 Subject: Re: Planing Forms Lon Blauveld (perhaps spelled incorrectly) is in Maine, Falmouth orFalmouth Foreside, I think. CHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL wrote: Richard, I didn't give details because I was going on memory, but until someonecomes through with better information here is what I remember. Theperson's name is Lon "something" and I think the business in GrindstoneAnglers. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from king@biology.utah.edu Wed Jul 29 17:22:19 1998 Wed, 29 Jul 1998 16:19:52 -0600 Subject: Re:Planing Forms Lon Blauvelt15 Town Landing RoadFalmouth, ME 04105 (207) 781-5235 from MICK@welfen-netz.com Wed Jul 29 17:29:21 1998 [195.143.56.1] with SMTP(MDaemon.v2.7.SP3.R) for ; Thu, 30 Jul 199800:28:42 +0200 Subject: Re: I'ld say someone has mailer problems. I get that sense or uselessmessages aswell ragnarig@integrityol.com wrote: -----Original Message-----From: gwilson@shaw.wave.ca Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 7:22 PM Does anyone know why I am receiving these messages with absolutely notext,or very little? It's only the postings from this list. Is this happeningto anybody else? Davy from stpete@netten.net Wed Jul 29 17:55:37 1998 cedar.netten.net(8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id SAA02888 for ;Wed, 29 Jul 1998 18:05:51 Subject: Re: Ferrules Great idea, Chris. Let us know how that works out over time. Rick CrenshawCHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL wrote: Rich, I recently restored an early Montague. It too did not have moisture sealsin the female ferrules and the ferrule on the butt section was also loose.I stuck a straw down the ferrule and dripped some epoxy down to thebamboo.This kept the inside walls of the ferrule free of glue, tightenedeverything up when dry, and created a moisture barrier in the process.Doesn't even require removal of the ferrule. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from Canerods@aol.com Wed Jul 29 18:00:22 1998 Subject: Re: Ferrel In a message dated 98-07-29 16:45:40 EDT, you write: Rich, If you put a moisture cap into the Montague ferrule you'll have the only oneon the planet. Don Burns from flyfisher@cmix.com Wed Jul 29 18:06:40 1998 Subject: RE: Ferrules RO>Rich, RO>I recently restored an early Montague. It too did not have moisturesealsRO>in the female ferrules and the ferrule on the butt section was alsoloose.RO>I stuck a straw down the ferrule and dripped some epoxy down to thebamboo.RO> This kept the inside walls of the ferrule free of glue, tightenedRO>everything up when dry, and created a moisture barrier in the process.RO>Doesn't even require removal of the ferrule. RO>ChrisRO>mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Chris, Good idea, I've used varnish or epoxy to seat the cane end myself afterremoving the ferrule. If you can remove the ferrule maybe try some ofthe polyurethane type glues because these glues are waterproof and willgo into the cane too. Don Burns from flyfisher@cmix.com Wed Jul 29 18:20:33 1998 Subject: Polyurethane glues All, On my weekend Home Depot run for paint/brushes/rollers for my latesthoney-do project, I stopped and looked at the woodworking magazines. Ifound some interesting articles listed in the July Popular Woodworkingand bought it. There's an article on wood finishes that's of interest, but I bought themag. for the polyurethane article. It turned out to not be of great depth and they used data supplied bythe makers, but still of interest. (to me) Some point gleamed from the article: 1) Polyurethane glues are totally waterproof. 2) They are not as strong as yellow glue when used on a long-grain tolong- grain joint. (by only a little bit) 3) They are much stronger (than yellow glue) when used on a end-grain toend-grain or end-grain to long-grain joint. (scarfs?) 4) They will fill in gaps, but anything over 1 mm (2mm?) isn't a strongbond - should be fine for even my rodmaking skills! The glue requiressome water to cure and you might need to wet the joint. 5) Too many brands and the market will soon sort out some brands. Note: No scores given for brand bond strength or any other spec's in thearticle. Don Burns from Grhghlndr@aol.com Wed Jul 29 19:58:56 1998 Subject: Re: RE: Planing Forms richard,The gentlemans name is Lon Blauvelt and he lives in maine.Bret from LECLAIR123@aol.com Wed Jul 29 20:37:42 1998 Subject: Re: Ferrel Rich,Alot of the mass produced rods back then didn't have water seals inthem. As long as the ferrule is sealed up at the bottom were it meets thewood,you shouldn't have a problem. Dave LeClair from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Jul 29 20:56:37 1998 bach.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id VAA02664 for; Wed, 29 Subject: Planing forms boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDBB39.C5743820" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDBB39.C5743820 The high cost of planing forms makes me want to go to a local machineshopwith the plans and have them do everything except make the bevel downthemiddle. That seems to be the most time-consuming part so I'd spend a fewnights doing that. Has anyone tried this? It would seem the parts andlabourof measuring, drilling and tapping the holes would add up to just a fewhours work. Richard Nantel ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDBB39.C5743820 name="Richard Nantel (E-mail).vcf" filename="Richard Nantel (E-mail).vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Nantel;Richard;;;FN:Richard Nantel (E-mail)ORG:Le groupe MENTOR;TITLE:TEL;WORK;VOICE:(514) 393- 3292TEL;HOME;VOICE:(514) 485-2287TEL;PAGER;VOICE:[1] (514) 111- 1111TEL;WORK;FAX:(514) 393-1483ADR;WORK:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaADR;HOME:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:richard.nantel@videotron.caREV:19980514T133343ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDBB39.C5743820-- from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 30 00:22:58 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: Lathes I'm jazzed...just got a "new" (to me, actually the original purchaser couldhave been Henry Ford) 9" South Bend lathe. Seems to be in quite goodshape(as long as having any paint on it isn't in your definition), tight,smooth, well- tooled, BUT it needs a new leather belt. I know some of youon the list have South Bend lathes...where do you get belts? (I've heardthat hardly anyone buys them from South Bend lathe.) Thanks in advance,George W. Bourke(AKA irish-george) from SalarFly@aol.com Thu Jul 30 01:40:00 1998 Subject: Re: Planing forms In a message dated 7/29/98 11:17:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: The high cost of planing forms makes me want to go to a local machineshopwith the plans and have them do everything except make the bevel downthemiddle. That seems to be the most time-consuming part so I'd spend afewnights doing that. Has anyone tried this? It would seem the parts andlabourof measuring, drilling and tapping the holes would add up to just a fewhours work. I've heard of somebody going down to their local vocational schooland showing the plans to the machine shop teacher, and he hadhis students make one. All he had to do was pay for materials,about $35. Darryl Hayashida from anglport@con2.com Thu Jul 30 06:42:01 1998 Subject: Re: Lathes George, I went half nuts when I needed one. The "kit" they sell costs more thansomelathes! I finally broke down and went to a local "power- transmission"(read:belting) company and they ran me up a leather belt with a multi-toothedfastener on each end and a pin that slid through the two sets of teeth(almost like a zipper with a third part to hold the two "zips" together). Itmakes a sight clacking noise as it goes around the flat pulleys, but for themoney, it was the best I could do. The belt has lasted at least ten yearsand can be shortened if slack becomes noticeable. There was NO way I wasdisassembling the head stock to get a loop belt on the thing and nobodyelsehad the scarfing/gluing kit to do otherwise.Good luck,ArtAt 10:27 PM 7/29/98 -0700, you wrote:I'm jazzed...just got a "new" (to me, actually the original purchaser couldhave been Henry Ford) 9" South Bend lathe. Seems to be in quite goodshape(as long as having any paint on it isn't in your definition), tight,smooth, well-tooled, BUT it needs a new leather belt. I know some of youon the list have South Bend lathes...where do you get belts? (I've heardthat hardly anyone buys them from South Bend lathe.) Thanks in advance,George W. Bourke(AKA irish-george) from m.boretti@agonet.it Thu Jul 30 07:56:22 1998 Subject: Vacation Dear Friends,I am in vacation from 31 July to 28 August. from bc@fyptt.fyptt.zjpta.net.cn Thu Jul 30 09:01:42 1998 SVR4) Subject: Andy Royer contacting Want to contact Mr. Andy Royer but lost his contacting phone number.Willbe very appreciated if any one can help me with the information. With regards, Cao QungenBamboo SupplierBamboo China Service from eestlow@srminc.com Thu Jul 30 09:13:15 1998 Thu, 30 Jul 1998 09:18:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Andy Royer contacting I have moved. My wife was drawn by the rivers and I was pulled by her. My contact information is below. Thank you. Andy Royer231 S. 2ndLivingston, MT59047 bamboo@ycsi.net(406) 222-1415 ph(406) 222-1582 fx bc on 07/30/98 07:02:28 AM Please respond to rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Andy Royer contacting Want to contact Mr. Andy Royer but lost his contacting phone number.Willbe very appreciated if any one can help me with the information. With regards, Cao QungenBamboo SupplierBamboo China Service from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Thu Jul 30 11:04:32 1998 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id LAA00038 for; Thu, (8.8.4/8.6.8) with SMTP idLAA11190 for ; Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:04:28 Subject: Re: Planing forms I built my own forms " from scratch" and drilling the holes accuratelywas by far the hardest part. Cutting the groove was comparativelyeasy. I used a file and a jig as described in Wayne's book, buta 60 degree lathe tool in a holder would be easier yet. Sounds likea good plan.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Wed, 29 Jul 1998, Richard Nantel wrote: The high cost of planing forms makes me want to go to a local machineshopwith the plans and have them do everything except make the bevel downthemiddle. That seems to be the most time-consuming part so I'd spend afewnights doing that. Has anyone tried this? It would seem the parts andlabourof measuring, drilling and tapping the holes would add up to just a fewhours work. Richard Nantel from ragnarig@integrityol.com Thu Jul 30 11:43:56 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A45F1A500148; Thu, 30 Jul 1998 09:50:39 PDT Subject: Re: lathe belt Dear George I have to agree with Art, especially after looking at the belt on the SBlathe in our shop. Looks like an old rifle sling or something, heldtogether by a crudely stapled joint. Been going strong for about six yearsthat I know of and probably a lot longer. In other words I don't think I'dbe inclined to spend a lot of money on this. Davy At 10:27 PM 7/29/98 -0700, you wrote:I'm jazzed...just got a "new" (to me, actually the original purchasercouldhave been Henry Ford) 9" South Bend lathe. Seems to be in quite goodshape(as long as having any paint on it isn't in your definition), tight,smooth, well-tooled, BUT it needs a new leather belt. I know some ofyouon the list have South Bend lathes...where do you get belts? (I've heardthat hardly anyone buys them from South Bend lathe.) Thanks in advance,George W. Bourke(AKA irish-george) from stpete@netten.net Thu Jul 30 16:21:39 1998 cedar.netten.net(8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id QAA24245 for ;Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:32:20 Subject: Wayne C.'s address / phone # I need to contact Wayne Cattanach. The phone # on his web page is nolonger in service and I fear I may have sent a check to the wrongaddress. If you know his mailing address or phone #, I'd appreciate it. Rick Crenshaw from bc@fyptt.fyptt.zjpta.net.cn Thu Jul 30 18:21:29 1998 SVR4) Subject: Re: Andy Royer contacting Dear Andy Royer, Try to call you but the phone of nubmer 406 222 1415 was disconnected.Doyou have another phone number or home ph. No.? Cao Qungen--------------- Ed Estlow wrote: I have moved. My wife was drawn by the rivers and I was pulled by her. My contact information is below. Thank you. Andy Royer231 S. 2ndLivingston, MT59047 bamboo@ycsi.net(406) 222-1415 ph(406) 222-1582 fx bc on 07/30/98 07:02:28 AM Please respond to rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu cc: bc@fyptt.fyptt.zjpta.net.cn (bcc: Ed Estlow/SRM/US)Subject: Andy Royer contacting Want to contact Mr. Andy Royer but lost his contacting phone number.Willbe very appreciated if any one can help me with the information. With regards, Cao QungenBamboo SupplierBamboo China Service from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu Jul 30 18:52:41 1998 Subject: Re: Planing forms Richard, I can assure you that any machine shop is going to charge you asmuchto do that as to buy the forms,the most costly part is thr set up time.Bret from flyfisher@cmix.com Thu Jul 30 20:25:41 1998 Subject: RE:Wayne C.'s address / phone # RO>I need to contact Wayne Cattanach. The phone # on his web page is noRO>longer in service and I fear I may have sent a check to the wrongRO>address. If you know his mailing address or phone #, I'd appreciate it. RO>Rick Crenshaw Rick, I know the 313 areacode in MI just split (don't know W.C. areacode) -try 734 xxx-xxxx, it might be just an areacode change. Don Burns from swilson1@WHC.NET Fri Jul 31 00:19:48 1998 ; Subject: Andy Royer I have an address for Andy Royer (given by him on 7/29--checking on ashipment). The address is: 3539 Southwest IdaSeattle, WA 98126 The phone number I have is suspect. It is (206) 463-3771. My caller IDdied, or I could have gotten the number from there. Hope this helps. Scott Wilson from jaw12@health.state.ny.us Fri Jul 31 07:48:00 1998 (InterLock SMTP Gateway 3.0 for rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu);Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:47:26 -0400 Fri, 31 Jul 1998 08:47:26 -0400 Subject: Re: Planing forms I went to a local machine shop and was quoted $300 just to drill and reamthe holes... No tapping, filing, or groove cutting.... Grhghlndr@aol.com on 07/30/98 07:51:59 PM Please respond to rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Planing forms Richard, I can assure you that any machine shop is going to charge you asmuchto do that as to buy the forms,the most costly part is thr set up time.Bret from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Jul 31 08:03:30 1998 bach.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id JAA21236 for; Fri, 31 Subject: RE: Planing forms Thanks to everyone who responded to my post. I'll check out the machineshopdepartment of my local high schools. If that fails, I'll bite the bullet andspring for a set of planing forms. Richard -----Original Message----- jaw12@health.state.ny.us Subject: Re: Planing forms I went to a local machine shop and was quoted $300 just to drill and reamthe holes... No tapping, filing, or groove cutting.... Grhghlndr@aol.com on 07/30/98 07:51:59 PM Please respond to rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Planing forms Richard, I can assure you that any machine shop is going to charge you asmuchto do that as to buy the forms,the most costly part is thr set up time.Bret from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Fri Jul 31 08:04:39 1998 Fri, 31 Jul 1998 21:04:18 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Planing forms On Fri, 31 Jul 1998 jaw12@health.state.ny.us wrote: I went to a local machine shop and was quoted $300 just to drill andreamthe holes... No tapping, filing, or groove cutting.... Don't write off wooden forms. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Jul 31 08:08:22 1998 bach.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id JAA22224 for; Fri, 31 Subject: Andy Barr Rods boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDBC60.E627EB20" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDBC60.E627EB20 I own a couple of bamboo rods from the early sixties made by a Canadianbuilder named Andy Barr. These are nice, light, fast action 5-strip rods (3oz 7' DT5 and 3.5 oz 7'6"DT6). I heard rumors that his son took over his rodbusiness after he died. Does anyone know of a Barr somewhere buildingbamboorods? Thanks Richard Nantel ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDBC60.E627EB20 name="Richard Nantel (E-mail).vcf" filename="Richard Nantel (E-mail).vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Nantel;Richard;;;FN:Richard Nantel (E-mail)ORG:Le groupe MENTOR;TITLE:TEL;WORK;VOICE:(514) 393- 3292TEL;HOME;VOICE:(514) 485-2287TEL;PAGER;VOICE:[1] (514) 111- 1111TEL;WORK;FAX:(514) 393-1483ADR;WORK:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaADR;HOME:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:richard.nantel@videotron.caREV:19980514T133343ZEND:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDBC60.E627EB20-- from briansr@point-net.com Fri Jul 31 09:06:50 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Andy Barr Rods Hi Richard Andy's son is living in Chateaugay Qc. I forgot his given name .I'm trying to find him, myself. He was at the ASF supper in MTl. a fewyearsback . Might have given up rod building as he didn't have the fire in thesoul that Andy did. He also wasn't very passionate in his knowledge of hisdad's rods.Cheers Brian Sturrock----Original Message-----mom: Richard Nantel Subject: Andy Barr Rods I own a couple of bamboo rods from the early sixties made by a Canadianbuilder named Andy Barr. These are nice, light, fast action 5-strip rods (3oz 7' DT5 and 3.5 oz 7'6"DT6). I heard rumors that his son took over hisrodbusiness after he died. Does anyone know of a Barr somewhere buildingbamboorods? Thanks Richard Nantel from rcurry@top.monad.net Fri Jul 31 09:09:27 1998 Subject: Re: Fishing Silk john channer wrote: At 06:02 PM 7/19/98 EDT, you wrote: With the tutelage of Reed Curry I got an old sticky flyline cleanedand restored. I just got back from fishing it. Works great. Floats likea cork (Mucilin red label treated) and really presents the fly withbarely a ripple. I was in a wild trout area, but unfortunately the firstfish I caught with it was a stocker, but it did give me a good fight, itwas about 12". Must have wandered in from downstream where theydo stock the stream. This was my first time actually fishing with asilk line. I really like it! It doesn't stretch as much as a plastic lineand hook sets are much more positive. And I really like the way theline feels and sounds as I cast it. There really is a different feel to silklines, much like there is a different feel to bamboo rods. Thecombinationof the two is too good to be described. Darryl Hayashida Darryl,et all;I picked up an old fly line at the local junque shop a few weeks ago, and Ihave no idea what it is. It is amber colored with a white braided core,itis much darker at the used end of the line than what was on the reel. Thecoating is not at all sticky. It seems to measure a consistant .030 forthewhole length of the line, which as far as I can find out is a level 4 wt. Ihaven't fished it yet, but lawn casting it gives much more of a jerk to my4 wt. rod as the line straightens than the double taper I am used to. Isthis because it is a level line, or is it something common to silk lines? Ihaven't cast a level line in 25 yrs, so I don't remember anything aboutthem,either. It does seem to cast nicely, and I kind of like the bump onthe rod when the line straightens out. Anybody have any ideas??Thanks; JohnJohn,Take a match to the exposed braid at one end of the line. If it burnsand doesn't melt into a knob, but gives off an unpleasant odor, it isprobably silk.The line size is "G". The thinner diameter for the weight makes a real difference incasting,doesn't it? There will be an article on the advantages of silk lines in anupcomingBamboo Fly Rod Magazine.Best regards,Reed from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Jul 31 09:23:53 1998 bach.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id KAA10157 for; Fri, 31 Subject: RE: Andy Barr Rods Thanks, Brian. I spoke to Dan at the Montreal Orvis shop about Andy Barrlast night. Dan knew him and mentioned that he was quite a bit ahead ofhistime in many of his rod building ideas. After all, he was building short,light, fast- action 5-strip rods with oversized guides back in the dayswheremany makers were making slower, longer, more traditional six-striptapers.He sounded like quite a character, occasionally trading one of his rods fora few beers at the local tavern. My chat with Dan picked my interest in themaker of these rods. Hence my desire to speak with his son. I'll check outthe Barr phone listings for Chateaugay. Richard PS. I'll be fishing the 7" 5 weight for the first time this Sunday. It seemsa shame to keep it in its tube in the closet. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Andy Barr Rods Hi Richard Andy's son is living in Chateaugay Qc. I forgot his given name .I'm trying to find him, myself. He was at the ASF supper in MTl. a fewyearsback . Might have given up rod building as he didn't have the fire in thesoul that Andy did. He also wasn't very passionate in his knowledge of hisdad's rods.Cheers Brian Sturrock----Original Message-----mom: Richard Nantel Subject: Andy Barr Rods I own a couple of bamboo rods from the early sixties made by a Canadianbuilder named Andy Barr. These are nice, light, fast action 5-strip rods (3oz 7' DT5 and 3.5 oz 7'6"DT6). I heard rumors that his son took over hisrodbusiness after he died. Does anyone know of a Barr somewhere buildingbamboorods? Thanks Richard Nantel from RMargiotta@aol.com Fri Jul 31 11:25:03 1998 Subject: Sanding between varnish coats To All: It seems like the consensus for multiple varnish coats is to sand lightlybetween coats. A few questions, if I may: 1. What grit sandpaper is preferred by the list members? 2. Has anyone tried NOT sanding and adding the next coat within a shortperiod of time? Garrison mentions this method and allowed 8 hours forpolyurethanes and 24 hours for spar. He said that the very slighttackinessallowed proper adhesion, but it assumes that the prior coat was nice andsmooth. Thanks to all, Rich from SalarFly@aol.com Fri Jul 31 11:26:00 1998 Subject: Going Fishing As much as I think it's egotistical to send thesekind of messages, I'm postponing my Rodmakersmail, and won't be available next week, I'm goingfishing. The only reason I'm sending this messageis I post so much on this list people begin to wonderwhen I don't post for a few days, and I begin to getprivate emails inquiring if everything is okay. Iappreciate the concern, so in return I'll let you guysknow when I'll be gone. Bringing my bamboo rods of course, going to the Sierra Mountains. Maybe you will see a few pictures in future Bamboo Fly Rod magazines. Darryl Hayashida from anglport@con2.com Fri Jul 31 12:08:22 1998 Subject: RE: Andy Barr Rods (SHORT!!!!) At 10:10 AM 7/31/98 -0400, you wrote:Dan knew him and mentioned that he was quite a bit ahead of histime in many of his rod building ideas. .... After all, he was building short,light, fast-action 5-strip rods ...... Richard PS. I'll be fishing the 7" 5 weight for the first time this Sunday. Rich,I'll say they were short rods!!!!!!!Seven INCHES, you say?Art from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Jul 31 12:27:35 1998 bach.videotron.net (8.8.5/8.8.2) with SMTP id NAA23067 for; Fri, 31 Subject: RE: Andy Barr Rods (SHORT!!!!) Right. They're perfect for tiny overgrown puddles, .25 weight rods andwild,selective bacteria. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Andy Barr Rods (SHORT!!!!) At 10:10 AM 7/31/98 -0400, you wrote:Dan knew him and mentioned that he was quite a bit ahead of histime in many of his rod building ideas. .... After all, he was building short,light, fast-action 5-strip rods ...... Richard PS. I'll be fishing the 7" 5 weight for the first time this Sunday. Rich,I'll say they were short rods!!!!!!!Seven INCHES, you say?Art from teekay35@interlynx.net Fri Jul 31 15:22:17 1998 Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats I use #1000 grit wet paper between coats, then wiped with varsol, then atack cloth to remove all signs of dust or motes. Guides are tied on aftertwo coats of varnish and given 4 to 6 full, wet, coats. I use a flooringvarnish that permits recoating the guide wraps every 6 hours. Then athirdovercoat of varnish is given to the entire rod section as in the Garrisonbook. No sanding preceeds this final coat.----------From: RMargiotta@aol.com Subject: Sanding between varnish coats> Date: Friday, July 31, 199812:24 PM To All: It seems like the consensus for multiple varnish coats is to sand lightlybetween coats. A few questions, if I may: 1. What grit sandpaper is preferred by the list members? 2. Has anyone tried NOT sanding and adding the next coat within a shortperiod of time? Garrison mentions this method and allowed 8 hours forpolyurethanes and 24 hours for spar. He said that the very slighttackinessallowed proper adhesion, but it assumes that the prior coat was nice andsmooth. Thanks to all, Rich from ragnarig@integrityol.com Fri Jul 31 16:31:28 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A979460256; Fri, 31 Jul 1998 14:39:05 PDT Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats Rich I think a lot depends on the kind of finish you are using. My rods getnumerous fine coatings of a fragrant, high-solids spar varnish and I like tobuff with the white (finest) Scotch-brite pads after each coating hasthoroughly dried. Remember that the crisper the edge (crispier onesseeming generally to be preferred) the easier it is to go through that verythin part of the coating. Anything which has a cutting quality will thin it even more and oftentimesremove it there. Ideally one would not touch the actual corner with anyabraisive. Since this doesn't seem practical, it is best to abraid it aslittle as possible- hence the Scotch-brite, which is safer than eithersandpaper or steel wool and has the additional benefit of contaminatinggreen varnish much less should you accidently contact it with the pad. Of couse, if you do recoat without sanding, you can wait 'til the varnishseems dry to the touch. I would not say "tacky" as real varnish, epecially,will usually adhere well until several hours or more after it feelsperfectly dry. Lightly rubbing with a compatible solvent, as Tedsuggests,is a good idea if you have any doubts. Drying times must always be subordinate to actual touch since variationsinthickness, climate, product etc. have such a pronounced effect. Davy -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats I use #1000 grit wet paper between coats, then wiped with varsol, then atack cloth to remove all signs of dust or motes. Guides are tied on aftertwo coats of varnish and given 4 to 6 full, wet, coats. I use a flooringvarnish that permits recoating the guide wraps every 6 hours. Then athirdovercoat of varnish is given to the entire rod section as in the Garrisonbook. No sanding preceeds this final coat.----------From: RMargiotta@aol.com Subject: Sanding between varnish coatsDate: Friday, July 31, 1998 12:24 PM To All: It seems like the consensus for multiple varnish coats is to sand lightlybetween coats. A few questions, if I may: 1. What grit sandpaper is preferred by the list members?2. Has anyone tried NOT sanding and adding the next coat within a shortperiod of time? Garrison mentions this method and allowed 8 hours forpolyurethanes and 24 hours for spar. He said that the very slighttackinessallowed proper adhesion, but it assumes that the prior coat was niceandsmooth. Thanks to all, Rich from rmoon@ida.net Fri Jul 31 16:58:53 1998 Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats CD0F33063E2BBB985F01E147" --------------CD0F33063E2BBB985F01E147 remember that polyurethane must be recoated before the previous coat isfully cured. Otherwise expect peeling between coats. After it is fullycured, before recoating sanding is a must. Ralph Moon --------------CD0F33063E2BBB985F01E147 Ralph Moon --------------CD0F33063E2BBB985F01E147-- from Nodewrrior@aol.com Fri Jul 31 17:16:46 1998 Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats I use #1000 stuff made for bodywork, then wipe down with mineralspirits andwait about an hour. It loads up really fast so if the wasteful rate at whichIgo through the stuff makes me crazy, the glacial pace at which it goesmakesit really fun. (!!!) As a (hopefully) busy musician, I rarely get the time toget coats closer than 24hrs apart, but I've wondered about hitting itquicklywith the 2nd coat would work too. One guy at Grayrock sands with #320betweencoats and his varnish work was beautiful! He only cranks out a few rods ayear, so I'm assuming it has lots of time to harden between coats. Robster from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Jul 31 17:29:11 1998 Subject: Re: RE:Wayne C.'s address / phone # Waynes area code is 616 from Grhghlndr@aol.com Fri Jul 31 17:32:06 1998 Subject: Re: RE: Planing forms List,I have a set of forms I will sell for what I have in them. They are fromLonBlauvelt.Bret from channer@hubwest.com Fri Jul 31 18:03:17 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AD72A0001FE; Fri, 31 Jul 1998 17:04:18 MDT Subject: Re: Sanding between varnish coats At 12:24 PM 7/31/98 EDT, you wrote:To All: It seems like the consensus for multiple varnish coats is to sand lightlybetween coats. A few questions, if I may: 1. What grit sandpaper is preferred by the list members? 2. Has anyone tried NOT sanding and adding the next coat within a shortperiod of time? Garrison mentions this method and allowed 8 hours forpolyurethanes and 24 hours for spar. He said that the very slighttackinessallowed proper adhesion, but it assumes that the prior coat was nice andsmooth. Thanks to all, Rich Rich;Ror what its worth, I use 600 grit on spar varnish and wait at least threedays before sanding, it has to be good and hard so it sands right anddoesn't ball up and come off under the paper. Use a hard sanding block ofsome kind so you don't round over the corners.John from timklein@worldnet.att.net Fri Jul 31 21:44:24 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP Subject: Re: Going Fishing Likely story... (you're just rubbing it in on those of us stuck babysitting the kids forthe weekend while the wife's out of town!) Tim--- As much as I think it's egotistical to send thesekind of messages, I'm postponing my Rodmakersmail, and won't be available next week, I'm goingfishing. The only reason I'm sending this messageis I post so much on this list people begin to wonderwhen I don't post for a few days, and I begin to getprivate emails inquiring if everything is okay. Iappreciate the concern, so in return I'll let you guysknow when I'll be gone. from timklein@worldnet.att.net Fri Jul 31 21:44:29 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP Subject: Re: Planing forms I went to a local machine shop and was quoted $300 just to drill andreamthe holes... No tapping, filing, or groove cutting.... Don't write off wooden forms. I'm considering going that direction myself. It seems to me that woodenforms combined with a grooved plane sole should yield pretty decentresults. Can anyone pass along their experience with this combination. If one iscareful, can you expect to get similar tolerances out of your strips? Thanks in advance! Tim--- from channer@hubwest.com Fri Jul 31 22:03:54 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A5CF477A013C; Fri, 31 Jul 1998 21:04:47 MDT Subject: Re: Planing forms At 08:43 PM 7/31/98 -0600, you wrote:I went to a local machine shop and was quoted $300 just to drill andreamthe holes... No tapping, filing, or groove cutting.... Don't write off wooden forms. I'm considering going that direction myself. It seems to me that woodenforms combined with a grooved plane sole should yield pretty decentresults. Can anyone pass along their experience with this combination. If one iscareful, can you expect to get similar tolerances out of your strips? Thanks in advance! Tim--- Tim;I made my first forms out of maple and built 5 rods on them before I madeaset of metal forms. They worked just fine, I sometimes wonder why Iwent tothe effort of making metal forms. I didn't even groove the sole of myplane, I did use metal tape to much the same effect. The surface will needto be touched up from time to time, but if you pay attention to detail whenyou make and use them, they work very well and are no where near theeffortof metal forms. I think total cost for them was about $10.00 and asaturdayto make them.If you use a dense, close grained hardwood such as maple,youcan thread the wood itself, or use threaded inserts if it makes you feelbetter. I found wood forms to be a good way to start if you are not sure ofyour ability to make a rod and don't want to make a major investment intime and money on something that may or may not work out for you. GoodLuck, whichever way you go. John Channer