SAA10458 from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Aug 24 18:16:54 1998 (modemcable75.173.mmtl.videotron.net TAA07271 for Subject: RE: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Hi Mark. I'm pretty much at the same stage as you in this. I've bought twobooks: Wayne Cattanach's Handcrafting Bamboo Flyrods and Howell's TheLovelyReed... Both have been excellent sources of information. I've also orderedthe Best of the Planing Form which should be here in about 10 days. Thequality of reading material in this art has been very high and I recommendyou pore over everything you can get your eyes on. Richard -----Original Message----- Evans Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who liketoshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What isin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Aug 24 18:16:57 1998 (modemcable75.173.mmtl.videotron.net TAA07285 for Subject: RE: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner -----Original Message----- Evans Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who liketoshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What isin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from rclarke@eou.edu Mon Aug 24 18:40:07 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark, I am just finishing my first rod, so I am just a little ahead of you.I think Carsten's advise is right on. Make a rod. Even if it is notperfect, you will learn a bunch. Also, this listserve is great. Listen towhat people say, and ask questions. People on the list are reallywonderful about sharing info. Best of luck and have fun! Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu ----------From: mevans - Mark Evans Subject: Mentoring Advice for a BeginnerDate: Monday, August 24, 1998 3:24 PM To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand to be a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboo rod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a serious wannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at square one, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to get started? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters. (In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward to collecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who liketo share their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which will produce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea to build your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What is in the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effective tools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife's Easter dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planes or learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific tools and/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasing you first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to best understand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don't have the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meet several of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 24 19:00:06 1998 Subject: Re: webbased hexrod Uh....John......I missed that tidbit of straightening (Paul Whiteley's). Could you copy theoriginal and forward it? Thanks, Art At 05:15 PM 8/22/98, you wrote:At 04:05 PM 8/22/98 -0000, you wrote: If you would like, I can put it on my web site. I have 10 megs of space,just let me know. Paul Whitely Paul;How can I get to your website these days? I keep getting the dread Error404 when I try to get there thru Cane Rod Links or my bookmark. Has youraddress changed? I really appreciate your tip about straightening nodesbypressing for 5 seconds, then turning the strip in the vise, this has madenode straightening much less frustrating for me. I am looking forward tothe rest of your plans for the beveler, also. John Channer from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon Aug 24 19:20:09 1998 Subject: Re: Nickel Silver tubing Dick,Let me know if you have a problem locating the N/S tubing.I havealot of it in stock. from 9/64 to 15/64. Dave LeClair from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 24 19:46:47 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark,I built about 20 rods a few years back and quit for awhile. I was astoundedat the amount of new info available at the Rodmakers' Archives and wentthrugh that source copying the relevent details to Word-for- Windows(copy-and-pasting it into a Word document, month by month). I suggest youdothe same and reread it after you've saved what you thought important. Iwillgladly forward my gleanings but you may find that mine jumps over somedetails important for a beginner. (Once you have what you think isimportantin a "Word" document you can use "Find" to locate anything you collectedwithout having to connect to the Rodmakers' Site.) Good luck and heedCarsten's advice; you won't go far wrong if you keep in touch with the guyson this list-server. They are well-informed, incredibly generous withtheirtime and knowledge and not so opinionated that you have to takeeverythingwith grains of salt.Best,Art So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at square one, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to get started? Mark Evans from thorstad@primenet.com Mon Aug 24 20:09:25 1998 be "lizard"via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpd002605; Mon Aug 24 18:09:141998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Looks like a newby-fest - I'm just gettin' into it too. I got hooked after finding the Garrison/Carmichael book in the library.After a little money came my way I started getting serious and haveboughtGarrison and Wayne Howell's book and "Best of the Planing Form". Irecommend both highly. "Best of the Planing Form" is chuck full ofnitty-gritty good stuff. My next purchase is Cattanach's book (highlyrecommend from others). from what I understand, his book is actually hisown text copied and placed in a three ringed binder (with software Ithink).Also you'll want to subscribe to the Planing Form and Bamboo Fly Rodmagazines. I think you'll find them both at the Rodmakers website. Rightnow I'm clearing a corner of my garage for a work space, and looking forinexpensive (ha!) tooling. One more thing, a good web link page can befound at http://www.azlink.com/~jshannon/ Last one to make a rod is a rotten egg! Tim from channer@hubwest.com Mon Aug 24 21:15:17 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AE721B600EA; Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:16:18 MDT Subject: Re: webbased hexrod At 08:15 PM 8/24/98 -0400, you wrote:Uh....John......I missed that tidbit of straightening (Paul Whiteley's). Could you copy theoriginal and forward it? Thanks, Art Art;I would if I still had it, but I just bookmarked Paul's site and it haschanged, he said he was wotrking on getting it back up and running again.The gist of it is, you heat your nodes as usual, but instead of letting itsit in the vise until it cools, then re-heating and pressing the other way,you press one way for 5 seconds, the flip the strip 90d and press until itcools. The first pressing straightens the strip in that direction and whenyou flip it it stays straight in that direction and additionallystraightens it the other way. I usually press with the sides to the visefirst the turn it enamel to the vise. I hope this is clear to you, if youhaven't tried this, do so, it has taken almost all the aggravation out ofnode strtaightening for me, not to mention the time savings. I alwayshatedit when I would get the sides perfect then have a bump on the enamel sideto get out and the side would go back to crooked again. Now it sometimestakes 2 times to get a strip straight, but most strips are good after onetreatment.This is one of those strokes of genius that I think I should havethought of myself, but didn't. Try it, you'll like it.John from flyfisher@cmix.com Mon Aug 24 21:15:42 1998 Subject: re:Re: Silk Order More Details RO>If you're lookimg for more volume for this silk order you may put medownRO>for two (2) spools. RO>Gary Dabrowski Jon, I never heard back from you - posted several times that I want a spoolalso. Don Burns Flyfisher@cmix.comCanerods@aol.com from briansr@point-net.com Mon Aug 24 21:24:32 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Hi Mark I'm in much the same boat . I'm tackling the problem in a differentway .Along with doin' all the reading I'm SLLOOOWWWLLLYYY andCAREFULLYdisassembling 2 & hopefully repairing 1 rod(s) You get to realize veryquickly just how tough a finish, tung oil can be!!!God forbid that the"learner" turns out to be worth $$$$Doing it the hard headed way BrianS.-----Original Message----- Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who like toshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What isin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 24 21:39:37 1998 Subject: Re: webbased hexrod (actually, straightening) John,Gotcha!Thanks,Art At 08:03 PM 8/24/98, you wrote:Try it, you'll like it.John from saweiss@flash.net Mon Aug 24 23:23:45 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner -----Original Message----- Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who like toshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What isin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans Mark,I'm in the middle of my first three rods, each at a different stage.My advice: read, read, read! The books mentioned by other responders, thearchives of this list, all are treasure troves of information and go waybeyond what you can get from Kreider's book. As you will find out, thereareseveral ways to do every stage of rodmaking and you should know whatyouroptions are and will have more fun experimenting if you read. The moreyouhave read, the better you can deal with things that go wrong and the betteryou can evaluate your own work.Have a good time. from thorstad@primenet.com Mon Aug 24 23:50:16 1998 be "lizard"via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpd018046; Mon Aug 24 21:50:021998 Subject: Apologies to Wayne Cattanach and Jack Howell boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_0000001B.01BDCFA8" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000001B.01BDCFA8 In an e-mail I sent earlier tonight I mixed up Wayne's and Jack's name - =sorry! I figured it out when I was looking up Wayne's book in the back =of Jack's book. Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000001B.01BDCFA8 In an e-mail I sent earlier tonight I = Wayne's book in the back of Jack's book. Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000001B.01BDCFA8-- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Tue Aug 25 00:23:18 1998 Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:23:11 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner On Mon, 24 Aug 1998, mevans - Mark Evans wrote: To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand to be a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboo rod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a serious wannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at square one, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to get started? Anything is fair game: Mark,get either Wayne's book or "The Lovely Reed" and read it/them, then take a deep breath grasp the first culm and split it with extreme prejiduce, plane the strips and no matter what you think as things progress keep going until you've lined it up and fished it.Unless you're expecting angels to sing upon the first cast you'll prob be very surprised to find it's a good rod *THEN* start worrying about refining your technique for the next rod, then the next etc. A lot of this stuff dosn't make sence until you do it and it'll all become obvious. Tony from WILHELM.RON@epamail.epa.gov Tue Aug 25 08:06:16 1998 10 #26439)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; withNovell_GroupWise; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:05:58 -0400 Subject: Silk Order More Details -Reply Jon; Count me on your order for the silk thread. Thanks; Ron from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue Aug 25 08:07:14 1998 (may beforged)) Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark,Where at in Central Arkansas do you live? Leo Eck, a rod restorer andbuilder lives in Jacksonville. There are several rodmakers in Memphisand some in Louisanna. I live in Fort Smith and am still working on my steel planing forms. Ihave flamed and split some cane and I need to get the forms done so Ican start planing. As an Air Conditioning contractor the hot weatherhas been keeping me almost too busy to keep up with the list. I got toget my priorities straight here. Although, the A/C work pays for thetools and materials. As the farmers say "Gotta make hay while the sunshines". Hang in there, get started, and have fun. Dick Fuhrman from lcdr.hallowell@smtp.cnet.navy.mil Tue Aug 25 08:35:00 1998 (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA00583; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:36:23 -0500 R8.00.01) Subject: Re[2]: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark, There are a few classes out there to give you the basics. I agree with Tony in that you need to read Waynes book and several of the others out there. I started with a class to avoid the bad habits and avoid many of the mistakes. Believe me I made many mistakes, but in the class I also learned how to fix them or when to scrap and start the strip again. I wish you all the luck. Remember to have patience. Mark Hallowell ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Author: at INTERNET On Mon, 24 Aug 1998, mevans - Mark Evans wrote: To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand to be a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboo rod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a serious wannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at square one, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to get started? Anything is fair game: Mark,get either Wayne's book or "The Lovely Reed" and read it/them, then take a deep breath grasp the first culm and split it with extreme prejiduce, plane the strips and no matter what you think as things progress keep going until you've lined it up and fished it.Unless you're expecting angels to sing upon the first cast you'll prob be very surprised to find it's a good rod *THEN* start worrying about refining your technique for the next rod, then the next etc. A lot of this stuff dosn't make sence until you do it and it'll all become obvious. Tony from dryfly@erols.com Tue Aug 25 09:29:36 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark Let me share the advantages and disadvantages of taking a class from anestablished rodmaker. The major advantage is the shadow offered by anexperienced builder. Whenever a situation or a question arises you can getinstant answers and advice. In addition, watching someone do somethingfirstmakes learning much easier (flaming, splitting, straightening, sharpening,planing, gluing, binding, ferruling, etc.). Another benefit is the praise andsupport offered by the instructor as you progress on your first rod andmandoes that help, more than you might imagine. Furthermore, you get tipsandtricks that the instructor has learned over the years which helps youeliminate the need for a lot of trial and error. For me I didn't want to haveto sift through all the different options available such as nodes vs.nodeless, types of glues and varnishes, sharpening methods, angles ofplaneblades, splitting methods, heating temperatures and times, oven types,etc. Iknow builders have different opinions about all these items but I didn'twant,as a beginner, to go into brain warp figuring all those things out. Later, asI get more rods under my belt, I'll start to experiment. After all don't letus forget that most builders generally build rods to fish with personallyandI for one do not want to sacrifice fishing time to build rods. Now on to the disadvantages and the biggest is clearly the price. Mostclasses probably run between $700 and $1000 but you do get at least a onetipcane blank out of the class. I was fortunate to build a 3 piece, 2 tip rod inmy class. In addition, to pay for my class I sold a bunch of graphite rods Ihad built to pay for my class and most of my equipment. After you buildsomecane rods you tend to fish the graphite a lot less, if at all. Anotherdisadvantage is availability and location of classes. I live in Maryland andtook a class in PA, I was able to drive to PA but still had to stay in amotel While classes aren't for everyone, it was something I'm glad I did andwouldrecommend to anyone who has the resources. However, I do not want todiscourage you from going at it on your own. Many excellent buildersbegan ontheir own equipped with only the Garrison book and a strong desire tobuildcan rods. I'm sure many of them wouldn't trade their sweat equity for allthetea in China (but maybe for all the cane though). Whether you take a classornot, sometime into the building progress you'll probably say "Wow, I canreally do this" and what a great feeling it is! Good LuckBob mevans - Mark Evans wrote: To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks wholike toshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - Whatisin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from mevans@acxiom.com Tue Aug 25 09:54:34 1998 Exchange ServerInternet Mail Connector Version 4.0.996.62) Aug 199809:50:19 -0500 Subject: FW: Mentoring Advice/ Thank You 4.0.996.62 JAA01522 Many thanks to those who have responded to this note. It is encouraging to find so many people willing to share their time and insight. Will try to take advantage of the generous invitations to call or meet folks when possible. Hope to have that first rod underway soon. (I'll always welcome more from anyone interested in sharing.) Mark ---------- Subject: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner To anyone who'd like to respond:After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand to be a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboo rod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a serious wannabe!So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at square one, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to get started? Anything is fair game:I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters. (In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward to collecting your advice ...).˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks who liketo share their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which will produce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea to build your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - What is in the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effective tools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife's Easter dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planes or learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific tools and/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasing you first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to best understand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don't have the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meet several of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October.Mark Evans from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Tue Aug 25 11:55:01 1998 mail.clarityconnect.com with SMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2b4);Tue, 25Aug 1998 13:02:47 -0400 Subject: Richard Sherman I am trying to contact Richard Sherman if he is still out here. Please contact me off the list. Thanks in advance. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from ragnarig@integrityol.com Tue Aug 25 12:02:04 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id AFD222C01BC; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:09:38 PDT Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice/ Thank You boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01BDD00F.11AA4420" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BDD00F.11AA4420 Hope to have that first rod underway soon. (I'll always welcome more from anyone interested in sharing.) Mark a.. Books are great but they should be held in the off-hand whilst a =plane or some other tool is in your dominant one. Don't think for an =instant that you need to amass all the tools, knowledge and other =requisites enumerated in somebody's book or treatise before you get =started. A planing form and plane are probably needed, but the other =stuff can be dispensed with- initially, at least- and should by no means =cause you to balk in the process of making your initial mistakes, which =are the tools you will find most valuable and draw upon most often.b.. In case you haven't already done so, go to the Rodmakers site =and print out all the tips and FAQs (as you come to each particular =process) and laminate them or put them in a "Pee-Chee" and scatter them =in an array of clever madness around your work area.c.. Make your own tools if at all possible. Fancy store-boughten =planes and scrapers are great but when you make a thing for your own =hand, it is a part of you and will not attenuate the creative flow from =your brain to the work nearly as much. Probably be a little cheaper as =well. Davy ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BDD00F.11AA4420 welcome more from anyone interested in sharing.)Mark What- you haven'tstarted = Books are great but = be held in the off-hand whilst a plane or some other tool is in your = the tools, knowledge and other requisites enumerated in somebody's = needed, but the other stuff can be dispensed with- initially, at = should by no means cause you to balk in the process of making your = mistakes, which are the tools you will find most valuable and draw = often.In case you haven't already done= the Rodmakers site and print out all the tips and FAQs (as you come = particular process) and laminate them or put them in a = area.Make your own toolsif = Vote for me when I run for = Davy ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BDD00F.11AA4420-- from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Aug 25 12:19:34 1998 0500 Subject: Pre-treated cane Friends,Last night I had interesting conversations with JohnBradford and his partner Bob Radasch. They have built akiln for heat-treating 8-12 entire culms of bamboo at once. from their conversation I learned that this is modeled tosome extent after what Walton Powell has done for years.Since pre-treated bamboo is not readily available fromPowell these days, they have developed this process toinsure that they have access to premium pre-heat-treatedcane.According to Bradford/Radasch, pre-heated culms arethe only way to go. Supposedly it splits easily, has uniformcolor, and is only availabe from them in top of the linecane.To date they have used Demarest and other fine cane,and experimented with times and temperatures and found whatthey like. They plan to offer this premium, pre-heattreated cane to rodmakers in the near future, at a price ofabout $45/culm, shipping included.Now, here's why I bring all this up. I have NOfinancial interest in this in any way. Neither do I makeany endorsement of the product. But it does soundinteresting. They have offered to ship some cane to theSouthern Rodmaker's Gathering if there is some seriousinterest in it. If you're interested, please let me knowoff-list and I'll pass the information along to John andBob.Thanks,Harry Boyd (fbcwin@fsbnet.com) from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Tue Aug 25 12:19:59 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark,I just glued rods 3&4, and was exactly where you are a year ago. I'vebeen hoping someone would ask this question. Here are a few suggestions:1) Learn to sharpen your plane. Sharper than anything you've ever seen.Razor sharp is going in the right direction, but not nearly as sharp as youneed. There are lots of ways to do it. Try them all, and stick with whatseems right to you.2) As you've seen posted already; Read, read, read, then get started.Hands-on experience is a wonderful teacher. Read the archives on Jerry'spagein the way that was documented well in another post.3) Buy a bundle of cane to use, and learn to split it well. Don't beafraid to sacrifice some cane in the learning process. By the way, a canethat is crooked as a snake is a poor one to start learning with. That reallycrooked culm in your first bundle will be a real headache to work with. Infact, I would suggest that you start with a medium grade culm, not yourworst,not your best. After all, you will do well enough the first time out tomakea nice rod.4) Make your first rod a taper that fits the kind of fishing you will do.Since I fish Arkansas tailwaters, I started with a rod that I thought wouldwork for that kind of fishing. If you make the gathering in October, youwillhave an opportunity to cast a number of rods and to some extent determinewhatyou like and dislike.5) I've built almost all of my tools, and that's a cost-efficient way togo, but can be time consuming. If I had it to do over, I would buy the bestforms I could afford, then build the rest of the stuff. My binder nearlydrove me crazy at first. Now it works like a charm.6) Contact Kurt Loup (KDLoup@aol.com) about making your own scraper. Hisdoes a great job. Or, buy the expensive Lie-Nielsen. Hope this helps,Harry mevans - Mark Evans wrote: To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks wholike toshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - Whatisin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue Aug 25 12:42:10 1998 (may beforged)) Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Memphis Listers, Mark Evans indicated to me in an off list message thathe gets to your great city more often than he gets to western Arkansas.If you would be willing to help him by answering questions during thosetimes he is visiting family in Memphis, please let him know. We have all benefited from the generous help of many list members and Mark have fun in this art/craft Dick Fuhrman from stpete@netten.net Tue Aug 25 12:48:31 1998 cedar.netten.net (8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id MAA23610 for Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner dickfuhrman@rheemote.com wrote: Memphis Listers, Mark Evans indicated to me in an off list message thathe gets to your great city more often than he gets to western Arkansas.If you would be willing to help him by answering questions during thosetimes he is visiting family in Memphis, please let him know. We have all benefited from the generous help of many list members and Mark have fun in this art/craft Dick Fuhrman Dick, I'm not sure what kind of 'help' I can give Mark, but I've alreadycontacted him and offered. Hope I don't screw him up too badly. Rick Crenshaw from fiveside@net-gate.com Tue Aug 25 16:44:51 1998 ns1.net-gate.com (8.8.3/8.7.3) with SMTP id RAA01514 for Subject: Re: 193 stress curves To the List'Richard suggested that I reply off list to avoid a ruckus but this shouldnot be ruckus material. One- piecers are indeed easier to make thanferruledrods for obvious reasons- when you go nodeless( 4 key words). Fivers arenotreally harder than hex when you have the planing forms and learn the drill.Quads are harder but worth the effort.Richard I can't comment on PHY tapers, but after a lot of fooling aroundwith software and tapers I agree" Ah sweet mystery of life" Bill from jcole10@juno.com Tue Aug 25 17:33:46 1998 18:33:26 EDT Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Tue Aug 25 18:07:11 1998 ("port 1035"@iank.nelson.planet.org.nz) by csc.canterbury.ac.nz(PMDF V5.1- 12 #U3251) with SMTP id Subject: grooved planes Hi all,The subject of grooved planes has been exercising my mind lately asIhave been having some difficulty getting precisely the proper sizedsplines using wooden forms . I decided it was due to the tendency of theplane to catch on the forms when getting down to the final 001 typecuts. It appeared that a grooved plane would overcome this problem. I was a little reluctant however to give my 2 planes with carefullypolished soles to a local engineering shop with instructions to grooveone to .002 and the other to .005 ( following Darryl's suggested sizes).I therefore decided to try an earlier suggestion on the Group ( I cannotrecall by who but please accept my acknowledgement ) of using superglueto glue shims to the sole of the plane to create the groove . I then had a problem of finding the right sized shims . Localengineering shops did not have them ( " used to have them years ago butnot much use for them now " ) noticed some cheap "feeler " gauge sets ( $6.50) with a range of sizes.002 to .015 with an increase of .001 for each gauge strip in each set.The strips were 4 inches long by .5 of an inch wide. I purchased 2 sets, took them apart at home , ( undid the nut holding them together ) andcut the .002 and .005 sizes into a 1 inch length and a 3 inch length. Ichecked the thickness of the strips and they were within .0005 . (betterthen my measuring accuracy) . I then used superglue to fix a 1 inch length in front of the blade andthe 3 inch length behind the blade with strips on each edge of theplane.I then ensured there were no high spot with some 1000 grit wet anddry paper over a sheet of glass . The end result was a grove which worked perfectly for two tips which Idid the final planing on last night . The fact that strip did not extendthe full length behind the blade did not seem a problem and it would beeasy to add another strip if it were a problem. I will purchase another set of the feeler gauges today to replace anystrips which may come loose over time . This may be worth trying if you are considering a grooved plane butreluctant to take the "final step " and possibly destroying yourfavorite plane as it is reversible by using acetone to soften the glue. One word of caution . When using super glue and holding the strips downafter glueing remember that the glue sets quickly and glues finger tipsto the strips and it is painfull (and a source of some amusement to thefamily) to have a plane glued to the end of your fingers . I know !!It would be wise to make sure the can of acetone is handy . regards Iank from chris@artistree.com Tue Aug 25 18:26:27 1998 QAA19583 Subject: Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library Update Dear List Members,Just wanted to let you know that the library has been updated. Asubstantial (and I mean very substantial) update has been done to the"Articles & Periodicals" section. A few more collectable type books wereadded to the "Books" section and the "Super Z" patent no. was added tothe "Video & Misc." section. Also, decided to include some very good articles on "Silk Lines" in the"Articles" section as there seem to be an interest in them. And to the list members who generously provided help in finding thisinfo, a very big THANK YOU! The Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library web site:http://www.artistree.com/SplitCaneLibrary/--Best Regards, Chris "I'm in microfiche hell" Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from jefffly@choice.net Tue Aug 25 18:28:26 1998 TAA10734 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon, I would be interested in a spool of the silk that you are ordering. Ifyou get enough for a larger order, please include me. Jeff Arnold-----Original Message----- Subject: Silk Order More Details Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have receivedorders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space forabout 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I canencourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone youknow off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to a60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will leteveryone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have itdone for Roscoe. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Aug 25 19:07:13 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Grooved Planes Ian, Thanks for the information and results of this method. How did you determine the amount to subtract from the taper when setting your formsso that your final strips are the right size. I assume the blade rides somewhere above the surface of the planing form with the shims acting asa buffer between the blade and the surface of the forms. When the blade is no longer taking shavings then the strip size is the depth of the groove plus the distance from the surface to the blade. How do you know the distance between the surface of the form and the blade since it protrudes through the plane some? Maybe it's a small enough distance that it doesn't even matter. This question may have an obvious answer and I'm just not seeing it. Anyway thanks for the idea, it sounds like a good one to try. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from ericrad@provide.net Tue Aug 25 19:25:47 1998 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon,Hi, you can count me in on one spool. Let me know what happens....Thanks, Eric Radgowski P.S. The splitting is coming along great...... from SalarFly@aol.com Tue Aug 25 19:26:43 1998 Subject: Re: grooved planes In a message dated 8/25/98 4:13:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,iank@nelson.planet.org.nz writes: I was a little reluctant however to give my 2 planes with carefullypolished soles to a local engineering shop with instructions to grooveone to .002 and the other to .005 ( following Darryl's suggested sizes). Grooving the sole of your plane actually isn't as permanent as itfirst appears to be. The sole of a plane is so thick that if you laterdecide you don't want them grooved, a few sheets of wet dry sandpaper, a plate of glass and a little elbow grease will flattenthem right out again. Darryl from MasjC1@aol.com Tue Aug 25 20:05:55 1998 Subject: Re: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Mark, You are getting very good advise. I just finished my first two rods in July.Like you, one year ago, I was gathering the necessary materials, suppliesandequipment. One thing I would add that was a big help to me was Wayne'svideo.Although not noted for its production values, the hands on demonstrationsandthe ability to see just how things are done is invaluable. I had difficulty insplitting my first culm. For the second, I payed very close attention to thesplitting section in the video and had no trouble. Mark Cole from lblan@provide.net Tue Aug 25 20:12:53 1998 Subject: RE: Finishing Motor I use a motor from a power humidifier.... works like a charm! -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:32 PM Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from mrbamboo@quik.com Tue Aug 25 20:54:14 1998 Subject: Re: webbased hexrod Another tip for this process re:straightening nodes, which I think I havekept secret, is to set your oven to approx. 450degrees and put 2 strips onone side, wait about 1-2 min (until the strip becomes limp-like), thenplace2 more strips on the other side. Once you place the other 2 strips in, take1 of the original strips out and press the nodes out using the 5 second rule(5 seconds in the vice, flip re-press) then do the next node. Usually youcan get 2-3 nodes flattened or straightened before the cane hardens up.Pull out the other strip with one hand, while putting 2 more strips in, andrepeat the process. My oven is like what is in waynes book, but I put a chicken wire shelf in itthrough the middle, and from the shelf down (in front) I put ridgidinsulation. Then I use another piece of ridgid insulation for the top. Thetop piece is duct-taped to the top-front, so that it always falls shut, andI put a long screw threw ir with large washers on both sides for a pull /lift. Then to keep the 2 sets of 2 strips apart from eachother I pur ascrew in the front, middle. Yes, doing this process not olny helps dry out your strips, but also letsyou flatten nodes in record speed. To date I have flattened 25 rods nodes(some 2 and 3 piece rods) in less that 3 hours. Note sometimes if you are not paying attention, you will loose a strip inthe back, or end up putting 2 strips on 2 strips and burning afew. Bediligent and this tedious process will be a breeze, and you you will hate todeal with the strips once they are glued because finishing takes soooooooolong. Paul Whitely from sats@gte.net Tue Aug 25 21:04:46 1998 Subject: Broke Bamboo Three piece rod (one of my experiments) broke at the male ferrule on thebuttsection. Upon examination of the section I noticed I probably should have used abiggerferrule. My question to the list is. On normal rods tapers seem to flatten out justbefore the ferrule and for a shot space after the ferrule. Mine was about (per inch) .003 going into the ferrule (within one inch ofthemale) .001+ going through the ferrule and .002+ below the ferrule. In other words most of the stress was AT or after the ferrule. I'm thinking that I should have flattened the taper out going into theferruleand for a shorter space coming out of it. What do you think? Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from mstevens@ptdprolog.net Tue Aug 25 21:12:01 1998 0000 Subject: Some pics for your viewing pleasure Hello, I have posted two scans from a November 1907 "Sporting Goods Dealer"magazine showing one of the rodmaking shops and the finishing shop of H.Milward & Sons, Redditch England. They are interesting pictures.Comments? They are about 200K each. You can see these at: http://www.lazerlink.net/mstevens/images/rodmakingshop.jpg http://www.lazerlink.net/mstevens/images/finishingshop.jpg Enjoy, Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 mstevens@ptdprolog.net Stevens Sight & Tool CoMaker of fine sights for antique single shot target rifles Collector of Heddon and other bamboo flyrods and casting rods. HeddonRiverRunt Spooks and Coxe baitcasting reels. from ghinde@inconnect.com Tue Aug 25 21:40:53 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon; Please add my name to the list for a spool of #5115 thread. GeorgeGreys River Rod Co.ghinde@inconnect.com----------From: Jon Lintvet Subject: Silk Order More Details Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:41 AM Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have received orders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space for about 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23 people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I can encourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone you know off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to a 60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will let everyone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have it done for Roscoe. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from mrbamboo@quik.com Tue Aug 25 22:05:15 1998 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon; Please add my name to the list for a spool of #5115 thread. GeorgeGreys River Rod Co.ghinde@inconnect.com----------From: Jon Lintvet Subject: Silk Order More Details Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:41 AM Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have received orders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space for about 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23 people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I can encourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone you know off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to a 60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will let everyone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have it done for Roscoe. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ What spool price are we looking at? Paul from thramer@presys.com Tue Aug 25 22:15:30 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Broke Bamboo Terry L. Kirkpatrick wrote: Three piece rod (one of my experiments) broke at the male ferrule on thebuttsection.Upon examination of the section I noticed I probably should have used abiggerferrule.My question to the list is. On normal rods tapers seem to flatten outjustbefore the ferrule and for a shot space after the ferrule.Mine was about (per inch) .003 going into the ferrule (within one inch ofthemale) .001+ going through the ferrule and .002+ below the ferrule.In other words most of the stress was AT or after the ferrule. I'm thinking that I should have flattened the taper out going into theferruleand for a shorter space coming out of it. What do you think? Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.netHi Terry,Three piece rods seem to have a higher stress level at the ferrulesand it has always helped on mine to put a bit more cane in the rod atthat point. Did you use truncated ferrules? I have had to be extracautious when using them. Two piece rods seem to have little troublewith stress at the ferrule as witnessed by the relative rarity of thevarnish seal being broken with just a use or two while three pc rodsalmost always break the varnish seal immediatly. The problem is that ashort 3 pc suffers unless you use trunc ferrules, standard ones seem toeliminate the problem while starting a flat spot in the taper. Thesolution seems to be building your own ferrules of the lenghth required from Dave LeClairs tubing. He provides clear instructions with thetubing.In addition, was the taper a modified 2 pc taper? About 1/3 of myproduction is 3 pc rods and I can state positively that they require adifferent taper than 2 pc rods. NO paras!I hope this helps a bit.A.J.Thramer from briansr@point-net.com Tue Aug 25 22:33:09 1998 0000 Subject: varnish boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD080.482F69A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD080.482F69A0 Hello list I'm currently refurbishing (destroying???) a locally made rod =It's a para and suffered brake at the male ferule The question I pose =is . Is it common to varnish a bamboo rod AFTER placement of the =ferrules and wrapping the guides as was done in this case ???? ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD080.482F69A0 Hello list I'm currently = (destroying???) a locally made rod It's a para and suffered brake at the = ???? ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD080.482F69A0-- from robert.kope@MCI2000.com Tue Aug 25 22:43:43 1998 with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 03:43:11 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: Finishing Motor Cabelas sells 4 rpm drying motors and 18 rpm finishing motors. Rober Kope-----Original Message----- Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from Nodewrrior@aol.com Tue Aug 25 23:03:06 1998 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Harry,How would you describe the color of the cane after their treatment? Lightstraw or honey/caramel? Rob Hoffhines from saweiss@flash.net Tue Aug 25 23:39:33 1998 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor -----Original Message----- Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com John,I use an electric clock motor for one turner and an old rotisserie motor formy other. I can turn two sections at once, which is very convenient.I have seen setups built with drive belts and pulleys for turning multiplesections using one motor.Steve Weiss from jfoster@gte.net Tue Aug 25 23:45:25 1998 Subject: web Well group, they finally caught up with me..gtenet finally discoveredthat my 30 megs worth of files exceeds their 5 meg limit, uh duh! so I'm going to call some of my buddies and see if we can't get aspecial ruleing...barring that, I've got to con a new web server itoallowing us more space for a nominal fee. The page is ok the way it is i just can't add or correct anything, andi've got quite a backlog. stay tuned... Wayne, did you get my e-mail? regards jerry from saweiss@flash.net Wed Aug 26 00:06:40 1998 Subject: Re: web -----Original Message----- Subject: web Well group, they finally caught up with me..gtenet finally discoveredthat my 30 megs worth of files exceeds their 5 meg limit, uh duh! so I'm going to call some of my buddies and see if we can't get aspecial ruleing...barring that, I've got to con a new web server itoallowing us more space for a nominal fee. The page is ok the way it is i just can't add or correct anything, andi've got quite a backlog. stay tuned... Wayne, did you get my e-mail? regards jerry Jerry,I would be happy to pay a few bucks a year for this purpose. Given thenumber of folks who regularly use the site, I bet that you can raise enoughbucks to pay for more space.Steve Weiss from KDLoup@aol.com Wed Aug 26 00:10:50 1998 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor John,I have been using a turning motor that I ordered from Cabela's. Themotor's best feature is it's relatively quiet operation. Kurt Loup from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Aug 26 00:25:30 1998 ; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:25:20 +1200 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes Chris , This made me think a bit . The .005 plane is used for the rough forming ofstrips and the shims really just protect the wooden forms in mostsituations. I know i can take a .004 shaving and not have the blade dig intothe forms. Once i was getting close to the final size i switched to theshallow groove and started to take .001 shavings , again without digginginto the form . I had allowed .002 for the strip to protrude when i set the form but onreflection you are probably right and I should only allow .001 if i amtaking a final shaving of .001. However I think you are also right in that it is getting down to thicknessthat may not matter ( at least to well meaning learners like me who didnotthink it was possible to measure closer then a quarter of an inch 12monthsago ) it was just that i found using the feeler gauge strips an easy way to try it. iank At 05:05 PM 25/08/98 PDT, you wrote:Ian, Thanks for the information and results of this method. How did you determine the amount to subtract from the taper when setting your formsso that your final strips are the right size. I assume the blade rides somewhere above the surface of the planing form with the shims actingas a buffer between the blade and the surface of the forms. When the blade is no longer taking shavings then the strip size is the depth of the groove plus the distance from the surface to the blade. How do you know the distance between the surface of the form and the blade since it protrudes through the plane some? Maybe it's a small enough distance that itdoesn't even matter. This question may have an obvious answer and I'm just not seeing it. Anyway thanks for the idea, it sounds like a good one to try. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Aug 26 00:25:34 1998 ; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:25:16 +1200 Subject: Re: grooved planes Darryl,Actually i was more concerned that they might come back at any size . Thelocal shop only appears to have a ruler and seemed to be uncertain how toconvert from inches to metric . Iank At 08:22 PM 25/08/98 EDT, you wrote:In a message dated 8/25/98 4:13:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,iank@nelson.planet.org.nz writes: I was a little reluctant however to give my 2 planes with carefullypolished soles to a local engineering shop with instructions to grooveone to .002 and the other to .005 ( following Darryl's suggested sizes). Grooving the sole of your plane actually isn't as permanent as itfirst appears to be. The sole of a plane is so thick that if you laterdecide you don't want them grooved, a few sheets of wet dry sandpaper, a plate of glass and a little elbow grease will flattenthem right out again. Darryl Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 26 00:28:31 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details You can count me in for a spool. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Silk Order More Details Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have received orders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space for about 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23 people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I can encourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone you know off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to a 60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will let everyone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have it done for Roscoe. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Aug 26 02:51:32 1998 ; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:47:48 +1200 Subject: Re: web Jerry ,same here .. but i do not think it should be made compulsory .. merely adonation by those who wish Iank At 11:06 PM 25/08/98 -0600, you wrote: -----Original Message-----From: Jerry Foster Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 10:49 PMSubject: web Well group, they finally caught up with me..gtenet finally discoveredthat my 30 megs worth of files exceeds their 5 meg limit, uh duh! so I'm going to call some of my buddies and see if we can't get aspecial ruleing...barring that, I've got to con a new web server itoallowing us more space for a nominal fee. The page is ok the way it is i just can't add or correct anything, andi've got quite a backlog. stay tuned... Wayne, did you get my e-mail? regards jerry Jerry,I would be happy to pay a few bucks a year for this purpose. Given thenumber of folks who regularly use the site, I bet that you can raiseenoughbucks to pay for more space.Steve Weiss Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from channer@hubwest.com Wed Aug 26 02:52:47 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AEF67D0104; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 01:53:26 MDT Subject: RE: Grooved Planes At 05:05 PM 8/25/98 PDT, you wrote:Ian, Thanks for the information and results of this method. How did you determine the amount to subtract from the taper when setting your formsso that your final strips are the right size. I assume the blade rides somewhere above the surface of the planing form with the shims actingas a buffer between the blade and the surface of the forms. When the blade is no longer taking shavings then the strip size is the depth of the groove plus the distance from the surface to the blade. How do you know the distance between the surface of the form and the blade since it protrudes through the plane some? Maybe it's a small enough distance that itdoesn't even matter. This question may have an obvious answer and I'm just not seeing it. Anyway thanks for the idea, it sounds like a good one to try. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu Chris;Set your form to the desired taper as if your plane wasn't grooved, thenplane the first strip. As you plane, adjust the setting on the plane totake the best cut. Measure the strip when the plane won't cut any more andre- adjust the form for the difference. I have grooved my plane about .005and I set the blade so it just barely clears the form. I just glued up arod (2 pc. 2 tips)tonite that I did the finish planing on all 18 stripswith one blade and took shavings from .005 thickness down to less than.001and never changed the blade setting from start to finish. One of theadvantages to a grooved plane is that if you keep the strip to the butt endof the form until the plane quits cutting, then move it forward a little ata time until it is in the proper position, you can take an extremely fineshaving without having to reset the blade. This also means that you canclean up problem nodes much easier. I didn't have any problems with nodeschipping at all on this last rod. Try sharpening your blade to a steeperangle than the standard 30 degrees, too. I sharpen mine at what the jig Iuse says is 35 degrees and it makes a lot of difference in ease of planingand number of chipped nodes. John Channer p.s. Ian, sorry if I answered this out of turn,but I have been bubblingover with the results of planing this last rod and couldn't resist theopprtunity to crow a little. Will the person that invented grooving thesole of the plane please stand up and take a bow. from channer@hubwest.com Wed Aug 26 03:02:26 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A150890104; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:03:28 MDT Subject: Re: webbased hexrod At 06:49 PM 8/25/98 -0000, you wrote:Another tip for this process re:straightening nodes, which I think I havekept secret, is to set your oven to approx. 450degrees and put 2 strips onone side, wait about 1-2 min (until the strip becomes limp-like), thenplace2 more strips on the other side. Once you place the other 2 strips in, take1 of the original strips out and press the nodes out using the 5 secondrule(5 seconds in the vice, flip re-press) then do the next node. Usually youcan get 2-3 nodes flattened or straightened before the cane hardens up.Pull out the other strip with one hand, while putting 2 more strips in, andrepeat the process. My oven is like what is in waynes book, but I put a chicken wire shelf initthrough the middle, and from the shelf down (in front) I put ridgidinsulation. Then I use another piece of ridgid insulation for the top. Thetop piece is duct-taped to the top-front, so that it always falls shut, andI put a long screw threw ir with large washers on both sides for a pull /lift. Then to keep the 2 sets of 2 strips apart from eachother I pur ascrew in the front, middle. Yes, doing this process not olny helps dry out your strips, but also letsyou flatten nodes in record speed. To date I have flattened 25 rods nodes(some 2 and 3 piece rods) in less that 3 hours. Note sometimes if you are not paying attention, you will loose a strip inthe back, or end up putting 2 strips on 2 strips and burning afew. Bediligent and this tedious process will be a breeze, and you you will hatetodeal with the strips once they are glued because finishing takessoooooooolong. Paul Whitely Paul;Thanks for another great tip. I have been using your 5 second method forthe last three rods I have built and it has made what I always consideredto be the worst part of rodmaking much easier and less aggravating. I mayhave to break down and build or buy a heat strip type oven so I can heatthe whole strip at once. I currently use a homemade heat gun type oven andmy 8x12 foot shop heats up pretty quick this time of year, not to mentionwhat running the heat gun for the length of time need to do a rod or two ata time will do to my electric bill. Now you have me wondering if I canmakea vise arrangement out of angle irons 5' long and press the whole strip atonce. John Channer from briansr@point-net.com Wed Aug 26 05:21:11 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor Hi John, try a motor from a dehumidifier-----Original Message----- Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from ragnarig@integrityol.com Wed Aug 26 06:38:06 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A581150E0118; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 04:46:09 PDT Subject: Homer Jennings Does anyone happen to have Homer Jennings' phone number? Apparentlyonlyhad it on my old computer. Like a schmuck. Thanks,Davy from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 26 07:39:10 1998 (modemcable59.174.mmtl.videotron.net IAA28794 for Subject: RE: Some pics for your viewing pleasure One of the most beautiful rods I own is a Milward & sons. I alwaysimaginedit built in a quiet workshop on the banks of a chalkstream by a craftsmanwearing tweeds. I guess it was a bit more of a manufacturing process. Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca -----Original Message----- Subject: Some pics for your viewing pleasure Hello, I have posted two scans from a November 1907 "Sporting Goods Dealer"magazine showing one of the rodmaking shops and the finishing shop of H.Milward & Sons, Redditch England. They are interesting pictures.Comments? They are about 200K each. You can see these at: http://www.lazerlink.net/mstevens/images/rodmakingshop.jpg http://www.lazerlink.net/mstevens/images/finishingshop.jpg Enjoy, Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 mstevens@ptdprolog.net Stevens Sight & Tool CoMaker of fine sights for antique single shot target rifles Collector of Heddon and other bamboo flyrods and casting rods. HeddonRiverRunt Spooks and Coxe baitcasting reels. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 26 07:45:50 1998 (modemcable59.174.mmtl.videotron.net IAA00493 for Subject: RE: web Jerry. Why don't you get free webspace at Geocities (www.geocities.com).They hand out 11 megs per site free. The catch is that they send you junke-mail once in a while trying to sell you things (none of which isrodbuilding related. Darn!). You could get three sites and spread the filesamong them. You'd likely need to redo some of the links in your site. It isfree, though. Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca -----Original Message----- Weiss Subject: Re: web -----Original Message----- Subject: web Well group, they finally caught up with me..gtenet finally discoveredthat my 30 megs worth of files exceeds their 5 meg limit, uh duh! so I'm going to call some of my buddies and see if we can't get aspecial ruleing...barring that, I've got to con a new web server itoallowing us more space for a nominal fee. The page is ok the way it is i just can't add or correct anything, andi've got quite a backlog. stay tuned... Wayne, did you get my e-mail? regards jerry Jerry,I would be happy to pay a few bucks a year for this purpose. Given thenumber of folks who regularly use the site, I bet that you can raise enoughbucks to pay for more space.Steve Weiss from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Wed Aug 26 08:01:22 1998 (may beforged)) Subject: web Jerry,Would it help if those interested pitched in a few dollars to pay forthe additional space? What would be necessary to keep this greatresource going? Let us know. Especially us newbies. We need this. Dick Fuhrman RO>Well group, they finally caught up with me..gtenet finally discoveredRO>that my 30 megs worth of files exceeds their 5 meg limit, uh duh! RO>so I'm going to call some of my buddies and see if we can't get aRO>special ruleing...barring that, I've got to con a new web server itoRO>allowing us more space for a nominal fee. RO>The page is ok the way it is i just can't add or correct anything, andRO>i've got quite a backlog. RO>stay tuned... RO>Wayne, did you get my e-mail? RO>regards RO>jerry from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Wed Aug 26 08:20:02 1998 0400 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor Cabela's has them pretty cheap...I think I paid around $15 (I don;t remember exactly) and it might have included stands as well. They also have more expensive ones if you need the features... Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Finishing Motor Author: at Tcpgate List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from lcdr.hallowell@smtp.cnet.navy.mil Wed Aug 26 08:33:17 1998 (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA12987; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:34:45 -0500 R8.00.01) Subject: Re[2]: Finishing Motor IAA28160 John, I've been using a rotisserie motor for a baroque grill for several years. It uses d cell batteries that last awhile or you can convert it to 115v. Most places like K mart etc. carry them in the garden area. Also I checked the local electrical motor outlets and found a source that only cost me about $15 for the motor and converter. Many of the fishing mags carry these also, although they are a little heavier, they cost about $60. Mark Hallowell ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Finishing Motor Author: at INTERNET Hi John, try a motor from a dehumidifier -----Original Message----- Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slow turning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one. Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from dmanders@ccinet.ab.ca Wed Aug 26 09:06:06 1998 Subject: Re: Richard Sherman At 12:54 25/08/98 +0000, you wrote:I am trying to contact Richard Sherman if he is still out here. Please contact me off the list. Thanks in advance. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ Jon, When I talked to Richard Shereman @ the Merritt get-together he said hehada web site but not email.Do you need his home address/phone #? Don from dmanders@ccinet.ab.ca Wed Aug 26 09:06:08 1998 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes - inventor John writes p.s. Ian, sorry if I answered this out of turn,but I have been bubblingover with the results of planing this last rod and couldn't resist theopprtunity to crow a little. Will the person that invented grooving thesole of the plane please stand up and take a bow. The first time I heard of the grooving thing was from Bob Clark ofLewiston about 6>8 years ago. There have been several articles in the Planning Formover the years how to groove planes. John Bokstrom and Frank Neunmannamongothers have come up with ideas of how to groove or add shims. Don from mevans@acxiom.com Wed Aug 26 09:07:49 1998 Exchange ServerInternet Mail Connector Version 4.0.996.62) Aug 199809:03:42 -0500Message-ID: Subject: RE: Homer Jennings 4.0.996.62 In case you're not aware of these, some excellent phone number sources on the web are: www.anywho.com and http://in-128.infospace.com several different types of searches (e.g. movers) can be found at: http://www.yahoo.com/Reference/Phone_Numbers/Individuals/ ---------- Subject: Homer Jennings Does anyone happen to have Homer Jennings' phone number? Apparently onlyhad it on my old computer. Like a schmuck. Thanks,Davy from kgabd@uswest.net Wed Aug 26 09:13:17 1998 Subject: Re: Homer Jennings David wrote: Does anyone happen to have Homer Jennings' phone number? Apparentlyonlyhad it on my old computer. Like a schmuck. Thanks,DavyDavid, Homer's # is 719 488 9692. He is going to AK tomorrow. kg from kgabd@uswest.net Wed Aug 26 09:14:26 1998 Subject: Re: Homer Jennings David wrote: Does anyone happen to have Homer Jennings' phone number? Apparentlyonlyhad it on my old computer. Like a schmuck. Thanks,DavyDavid homer's # is 719 573 8923 disregard 9692# from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Aug 26 10:13:03 1998 Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:10:20 -0500 Subject: Southern Gathering (was:Mentoring Advice for a Beginner) Mark,Talked with Wayne Cattanach last night and he has offered to lead ahands-on workshop for beginners at our Southern Gathering. Since I knowyouplan to attend, this will prove to be a BIG help for you. I wish I had hadthis opportunity a year ago. This workshop will take you from raw culm toasingle tapered strip. Once you have tapered one strip, you simply follow itwith enough others to make a rod. Since several of those attending thegathering are at or near the same stage as you, this should prove to beexceedingly helpful for many of us.Here's the way the schedule is shaping up. We will begin Thursdaymorningwith the gathering as planned, seeing and hearing demonstrations onsharpeningplanes, some of Richard Tyree's tricks and tips, making ferrules (Thurs.PM),bamboo cultivation and importing (Thursday evening), making your ownscraperplane, and possibly the Morgan Hand Mill. We will continue Thursday aslongas anyone wants, then all who want to may well fish all night!It seems every person planning to attend has a different schedule. I'llarrive Monday PM or Tuesday AM. Some will not be with us until Thursdayevening. Wayne, and so I hear our list guy Mr. Biondo, will arrive eitherlate Thursday or early Friday.Friday, and if necessary Saturday mornings, Wayne will conduct theworkshop (6-8 hours at a time). We will not just watch this being done,butactually participate in selecting and splitting cane, filing andstraighteningnodes, planing into rough 60 degree strips, and planing a strip to a finaltaper. I should think this workshop will give beginners a big jump on thelearning curve. Now, to those of you attending who are beyond the initial stage, we'llneed some tools available. If you are willing to bring your forms, planes,etc, please let me know. I think we will be able to put them to good use.I'm bringing all my stuff, less the dip tube. Can't figure out how to get itin the van! If any of you can brings some things that will help, pleasecontact me (Harry Boyd) at fbcwin@fsbnet.com.A few days ago, Ralph Moon mentioned that the gathering might get outofhand. We're not quite there yet, but this is shaping up to be lots of fun!See you soon,Harry Boyd Attendees: Harry Boyd, Kurt Loup, Tony Spezio, Don Laurenza, RickCrenshaw,Jody Titone, Jerry Ballard, John Cole, Eric Koehler, Harold and EileenDemarest, Richard Tyree, Dan Cooney, Terry Kirkpatrick, Barry Ericson,RalphQuinn, Leo Eck, Jim Freeman, Jim Hatfield, Skip Shorb, Steve Trauthwein,KenCole, Charles Curro, Wayne Cattanach, Mike Biondo, Miles Tiernan, andpossiblyScott Wilson, Terry Finger, Gary Jones, and Mark Hallowell and others asthelist continues to grow!(If I left anyone out, I apologize, and let me know: HB) mevans - Mark Evans wrote: To anyone who'd like to respond: After reading a Krieder's book on rod building - which I understand tobe a bit out of date - I think I'm about to jump head long into bamboorod making - and stay there! I am an absolute beginner - a seriouswannabe! So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted? Anything is fair game: I'm not quite sure what questions to ask, below are some starters.(In addition to being pointed to some books, I am looking forward tocollecting your advice ...). ˜ Should you find a mentor(s) to help you get started?˜ Recommended sources? - Classes/workshops, books, folks wholike toshare their knowledge, etc?˜ How to choose your first tapers when you have no idea which willproduce the action you want!?˜ Common beginner's mistakes to avoid - and how to do so?˜ If you're a reasonably skilled woodworker, is it a good idea tobuild your own jigs for wrapping, etc? Are plans available?˜ What are your recommended approaches to setting up shop. - Whatisin the list of essential equipment; any advice on obtaining effectivetools without sacrificing the kid's Christmas? (maybe the wife'sEaster dress can go.) e.g. Do you need to spend top dollar on planesor learn how to tune a Stanley. Recommendations one specific toolsand/or sources of supply? What do you need to know before purchasingyou first cane? Morgan's Mill? Worth the investment?˜ How best to try out different types of bamboo rods to bestunderstand what you want to do? (I live in central Arkansas and don'thave the luxury of local shops marketing bamboo rods.)˜ Etc. Any info you have to share is greatly appreciated. I hope to meetseveral of you at the Southern Rodmaker's Gathering in October. Mark Evans from ragnarig@integrityol.com Wed Aug 26 10:19:02 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A94F165B0118; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:27:11 PDT Subject: Re: Homer Jennings Many thanks to everybody who responded re. Homer's number. And thankstoyou, Mark. I'm sure I'll be making good use of this site! -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Homer Jennings In case you're not aware of these, some excellent phone number sourceson the web are: www.anywho.com and http://in-128.infospace.com several different types of searches (e.g. movers) can be found at: http://www.yahoo.com/Reference/Phone_Numbers/Individuals/ ----------From: David [SMTP:ragnarig@integrityol.com]Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 6:36 AM Subject: Homer Jennings Does anyone happen to have Homer Jennings' phone number? Apparentlyonlyhad it on my old computer. Like a schmuck. Thanks,Davy from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Aug 26 10:26:24 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Rob, Just Harry Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote:Harry,How would you describe the color of the cane after their treatment?Lightstraw or honey/caramel? Rob Hoffhines from mleider@postoffice.ptd.net Wed Aug 26 10:30:20 1998 0000 Subject: RE: web i just changed my page to an XOOM (www.xoom.com) account.....i also got11megs free, a free e-mail account, and best of all, no junk mail or thoseannoying little pop up adds.....might want to check it out..... -matt leidermanmleider@postoffice.ptd.nethttp://members.xoom.com/mleider/ At 08:31 AM 8/26/98 -0400, you wrote:Jerry. Why don't you get free webspace at Geocities (www.geocities.com).They hand out 11 megs per site free. The catch is that they send you junke-mail once in a while trying to sell you things (none of which isrodbuilding related. Darn!). You could get three sites and spread the filesamong them. You'd likely need to redo some of the links in your site. It isfree, though. from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Aug 26 10:32:07 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Varnish Hello list I'm currently refurbishing (destroying???) a locally made rod =It's a para and suffered brake at the male ferule The question I pose =is . Is it common to varnish a bamboo rod AFTER placement of the =ferrules and wrapping the guides as was done in this case ???? Brian, Yes, it is a pretty common occurrence to varnish over guides and wraps using a dip tube assembly. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from irvine@bamboorods.org Wed Aug 26 10:35:20 1998 ja014621 for; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:38:05 -0700 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor John, Try Grainger, http:www.grainger.com, they have slow speed gearedmotorsthat work great for dipping, Chuck JOHN E COLE wrote: List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com from Grhghlndr@aol.com Wed Aug 26 10:53:31 1998 Subject: Re: Re: Homer Jennings List,Get ahold of Grahame Massey at Belvordaile he knows Homer well.Bret from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Aug 26 10:54:28 1998 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes - inventor At 06:14 AM 8/26/98, you wrote:John writes p.s. Ian, sorry if I answered this out of turn,but I have been bubblingover with the results of planing this last rod and couldn't resist theopprtunity to crow a little. Will the person that invented grooving thesole of the plane please stand up and take a bow. The first time I heard of the grooving thing was from Bob Clark ofLewiston about 6>8 years ago. There have been several articles in the PlanningFormover the years how to groove planes. John Bokstrom and Frank Neunmannamongothers have come up with ideas of how to groove or add shims. Don Don,I don't want to demean the efforts of any of these men but thegroovingof plane soles has been around sense woodworkers first discovered theplane. I own a plane from the early 1700's with a groove in it's woodensole. It appeares it was designed to run down a track to cut a molding toa specified depth. I saw my first grooved plane sole being used by acraftsman at Colonial Williamsburg. I have no clue as to who first used agrooved plane on bamboo forms but as to 'grooving a plane' I don't beleivewe will find anyone to whom we can credit this idea. Regards,Gary H. from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Aug 26 11:33:19 1998 Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:33:11 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Finishing Motor wugate.wustl.edu idLAA16197 Uhhh,you might try the "Extract-A-Tron" being the computer and dot matrix printer dohicky I mentioned on the list a couple of weeks back.I've used this on a few rods including a new rodmaker's here called Mike Roberts who'll soon be on the list once he gets an email address. Tony On Wed, 26 Aug 1998, Brian Sturrock wrote: Hi John, try a motor from a dehumidifier-----Original Message-----From: JOHN E COLE Date: 25 aoงt, 1998 18:34Subject: Finishing Motor List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of aslowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.com /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from bkossler@earthlink.net Wed Aug 26 11:34:00 1998 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon,I would also be interested in the silk order. So, if you get enough ordersplease includeme. Thx.Bob Jeff Arnold wrote: Jon, I would be interested in a spool of the silk that you are ordering. Ifyou get enough for a larger order, please include me. Jeff Arnold-----Original Message-----From: Jon Lintvet Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 2:46 PMSubject: Silk Order More Details Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have receivedorders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space forabout 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I canencourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone youknow off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to a60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will leteveryone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have itdone for Roscoe. Jon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558(607) 277-4510http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Aug 26 11:40:28 1998 Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:40:18 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane OK, call me slow but I must be missing something here.This cane is *pre heat treated* presumably some time ago. What is happening to all the moisture re-entry? Is the usual thing here to heat again at a somewhat lower temp after splitting?I hate to start another round of the effects of heat treating but this dosn't seem right somehow. Tony On Wed, 26 Aug 1998, Harry Boyd wrote: Rob, the Just they Harry Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote:Harry,How would you describe the color of the cane after their treatment?Lightstraw or honey/caramel? Rob Hoffhines /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Aug 26 12:38:56 1998 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane In a message dated 8/26/98 9:47:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au writes: OK, call me slow but I must be missing something here.This cane is *pre heat treated* presumably some time ago. What is happening to all the moisture re-entry? Is the usual thing here to heat again at a somewhat lower temp after splitting?I hate to start another round of the effects of heat treating but this dosn't seem right somehow. It is my belief that heat treating a culm isn't just moistureremoval. The reason I say this is I flame my culms, andas I reach the end of the culm I can see a lot of steamand liquid escaping from the end grain. As I continue toheat to the end of the culm, naturally the liquid gets heated under the flame - what might be called cross-linking if thiswas a polymer. There is no reason to believe this isn'thappening inside the bamboo also. Sure there is goingto be some moisture re-entry as the culm sits before use,but it will never return to it's pre heat treated softness. Darryl from CALucker@aol.com Wed Aug 26 12:42:41 1998 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane In a message dated 8/25/98 9:09:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,Nodewrrior@aol.com writes: The culms of Walton's that I have handled were caramel colored. Theywerecooked in the Powell graphite blank curing oven. Chris Lucker from Marty.Ball@noaa.gov Wed Aug 26 13:34:33 1998 RFC822Gateway); Wed, 26 Aug 1998 14:34:23 -0400Content-Identifier: 0413235E4552F00BContent-Return: Allowed Subject: Re[2]: Finishing Motor My wife and children have learned to tighten their seatbelts anytime wepass a discarded clothes washer or drier put on the side of the road for garbage pickup. The timer motors in the "dashboard" of these appliances is usuallygoodand turns at a usable speed. Marty Ball bin divers anonymous from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Aug 26 13:43:01 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Tony,Like you, I don't want to start down this road again. I haven't even seenthis cane, much less done any definitive testing. Where is Terry Acklandwhenyou need him?According to Mssrs. Bradford and Radasch, this cane is being treated inalarge kiln they have recently built at a cost of several thousand dollars. Thetemperature is controlled to +/- 1 degree farenheit. Air is constantlycirculated as in a convection overn. Right now they like to put the cane inacool kiln, then set the thermostat to 375, and turn on the heat. Temperaturerises quickly to approx. 350 d., and hovers at that point for about 20minutes.After twenty minutes, steam, smoke, or some sort of vapor begins toescape, andtemperature jumps almost immediately to 375. According to Bob, theythen heattreat the entire culm for an additional 30 minutes at 375.Bradford and Radasch say that there is no problem with moisture re-entryafter this sort of heat treatment. Bradford lives in Ft. Worth Texas,wheretemperatures are as hot and humid as you can imagine. Our local newsmentionednearly 40 straight days of 100+ temperatures. I know of no place on earththatis hotter or more miserable than downtown Ft. Worth in July. I spentabout amonth there one weekend. He says he has been making rods for over 50years, andusing Walton Powell, Demarest, and Royer can treated this way has noproblemwith moisture after this heat treatment. Their contention sounds similartowhat Sir D mentioned, that there is some sort of change to the nature ofthebamboo cells.Seems like I remember someone saying that much heat for that longwould turnbamboo to ash. I don't want to find out.Again, I don't vouch for the veracity of any of this. Just passin' it alongas a favor to the aforementioned "gentlemen."Harry Tony Young wrote: OK, call me slow but I must be missing something here.This cane is *pre heat treated* presumably some time ago. What ishappening to all the moisture re- entry? Is the usual thing here to heatagain at a somewhat lower temp after splitting?I hate to start another round of the effects of heat treating but thisdosn't seem right somehow. Tony On Wed, 26 Aug 1998, Harry Boyd wrote: Rob, the Just they Harry Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote:Harry,How would you describe the color of the cane after theirtreatment?Lightstraw or honey/caramel? Rob Hoffhines /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Aug 26 14:06:40 1998 Subject: Re: web In a message dated 8/26/98 5:47:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: Jerry. Why don't you get free webspace at Geocities(www.geocities.com). No, Please Don't. Geocities pops up an ad in front of each pageas you click on it. After a few times of click on the next page, wait in, click on the next page, wait for the ad to come up, close it, etc.I just give up looking at the web site. Darryl from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Aug 26 14:24:36 1998 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane At 01:41 PM 8/26/98 -0500, you wrote:Where is Terry Ackland whenyou need him?Harry Harry,I would have loved to have heard his input on the mentoring topic. I'mafraid he was a bit offended the last time the subject turned to "simplebuilding". I do miss his point of view.Gary H. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 26 14:37:00 1998 (modemcable59.174.mmtl.videotron.net PAA28024 for Subject: RE: web I thought that was the only free web site provider. I agree the ads reallysuck. I'll check out the provider Jerry switched to. Richard -----Original Message----- SalarFly@aol.com Subject: Re: web In a message dated 8/26/98 5:47:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: Jerry. Why don't you get free webspace at Geocities(www.geocities.com). No, Please Don't. Geocities pops up an ad in front of each pageas you click on it. After a few times of click on the next page, wait in, click on the next page, wait for the ad to come up, close it, etc.I just give up looking at the web site. Darryl from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Aug 26 14:45:38 1998 ; Thu, 27 Aug 1998 07:45:28 +1200 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes No problem at all John . I understand exactly the joy of using a groovedplane for the first time as I did it earlier in the week and was thereforeso pleased with my use of feeler gauge strips to achieve the groove. Also Ithink your method of using the groove is more precise then my ".001 isgoodenough" and is what i should use in the future regards Iank p.s. Ian, sorry if I answered this out of turn,but I have been bubblingover with the results of planing this last rod and couldn't resist theopprtunity to crow a little. Will the person that invented grooving thesole of the plane please stand up and take a bow. Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from dmanders@ccinet.ab.ca Wed Aug 26 14:52:37 1998 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes - inventor At 12:01 26/08/98 -0400, you wrote:At 06:14 AM 8/26/98, you wrote:John writes p.s. Ian, sorry if I answered this out of turn,but I have been bubblingover with the results of planing this last rod and couldn't resist theopprtunity to crow a little. Will the person that invented grooving thesole of the plane please stand up and take a bow. The first time I heard of the grooving thing was from Bob Clark ofLewiston wasabout 6>8 years ago. There have been several articles in the PlanningFormover the years how to groove planes. John Bokstrom and Frank Neunmannamongothers have come up with ideas of how to groove or add shims. Don Don,I don't want to demean the efforts of any of these men but thegroovingof plane soles has been around sense woodworkers first discovered theplane. I own a plane from the early 1700's with a groove in it's woodensole. It appeares it was designed to run down a track to cut a molding toa specified depth. I saw my first grooved plane sole being used by acraftsman at Colonial Williamsburg. I have no clue as to who first used agrooved plane on bamboo forms but as to 'grooving a plane' I don't beleivewe will find anyone to whom we can credit this idea. Regards,Gary H. Gary, Perhaps you're right. Bob Clarke may not have "invented" the idea but itwas the first time, that I'm aware of, any of the builders @ the Merrittsession had seen the idea. He likely learned the idea from others oradapted it from other woodworking tools or maybe he just thought itthoughand figured that grooving would work. At any rate, the idea seems to have"taken off" with the builders that post to this list. regards, Don from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 26 14:53:50 1998 (modemcable59.174.mmtl.videotron.net PAA03112 for Subject: RE: Pre-treated cane I'm curious about Terry's input on mentoring too. I live in the same cityand contacted Terry hoping be able to hire him for a few lessons butunfortunately he declined. Does anyone know of any other bamboorodmakers inthe Montreal area? Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane At 01:41 PM 8/26/98 -0500, you wrote:Where is Terry Ackland whenyou need him?Harry Harry,I would have loved to have heard his input on the mentoring topic. I'mafraid he was a bit offended the last time the subject turned to "simplebuilding". I do miss his point of view.Gary H. from destinycon@mindspring.com Wed Aug 26 15:45:45 1998 Subject: RE: Grooved Planes - inventor At 01:20 PM 8/26/98, you wrote: Gary, Perhaps you're right. Bob Clarke may not have "invented" the idea but itwas the first time, that I'm aware of, any of the builders @ the Merrittsession had seen the idea. He likely learned the idea from others oradapted it from other woodworking tools or maybe he just thought itthoughand figured that grooving would work. At any rate, the idea seems to have"taken off" with the builders that post to this list. regards, Don Don,And a d_mn good idea it is! I grooved my roughing plane about sixmonthsago. I didn't think it was going to work, for me, because I tend to cantmy plane to the side when working. (this is the reason I didn't try itsooner) It took some effort to stop this habit but once I did I found Iwasn't expending my efforts keeping the blade off the top of my forms.Although, I think I get a nicer cut when I do cant the blade so I'm stillusing a flat sole for the final 5 or 6 finishing passes.If it was Bob Clarke who first brought this to the front my hat is offtohim.Regards,Gary H. from Cmwall@aol.com Wed Aug 26 16:32:44 1998 Subject: Re: Silk Order More Details Jon,Please include me on your silk order. Please contact me when you needpayment. Thanks,C.M."Mac" WallCmwall@aol.com from bobbo@buffnet.net Wed Aug 26 17:59:49 1998 bybuffnet4.buffnet.net (8.8.7/8.7.3) with SMTP id SAA01452 for via smap(V2.0) Subject: RE: Pre-treated cane I have not gotten any reply from Terry, even after several e-mails. I havea rod of his I am trying to sell and wanted more info. Maybe he is toobusy. I hope so, his rods are very nice and a good value. Bob At 03:38 PM 8/26/98 -0400, you wrote:I'm curious about Terry's input on mentoring too. I live in the same cityand contacted Terry hoping be able to hire him for a few lessons butunfortunately he declined. Does anyone know of any other bamboorodmakers inthe Montreal area? Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 3:32 PM Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane At 01:41 PM 8/26/98 -0500, you wrote:Where is Terry Ackland whenyou need him?Harry Harry,I would have loved to have heard his input on the mentoring topic. I'mafraid he was a bit offended the last time the subject turned to "simplebuilding". I do miss his point of view.Gary H. -----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from jaquin@netsync.net Wed Aug 26 18:20:43 1998 quartz.netsync.net(8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id TAA31102 for ;Wed, 26 Aug1998 19:20:37 -0400 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor JOHN E COLE wrote: List,I just went through my last variable speed drill and am in need of a slowturning finishing motor. Does anyone know where I can locate one.Thanks!John Colejcole10@juno.comtry ww grainger they sell small motors either ac or dc with gearreduction can get down to less than one rpm they should have an 800number call 800 information 800 555 1212 from channer@hubwest.com Wed Aug 26 18:28:28 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AA8326D013A; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:30:11 MDT Subject: test As long as you peeked anyway, has this just been a slow day, or did I getbooted? from RVenneri@aol.com Wed Aug 26 19:06:04 1998 Subject: Re: test John I think it was a slow day unless I got booted tooBOB VVenneri's Custom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 from mrbamboo@quik.com Wed Aug 26 19:17:24 1998 Subject: Reel plans Some time ago, there was someone who had plans for a wooden reel. Theseplans were in a '50's Mechanix Ilustrated, or something like that. I hadrequested a copy, and never have recieved one to date. If anyone has theseplans, please let me know. I will pay all costs encured for repro &shipping. Thanks Paul http://www.irvine.quik.com/mrbamboo/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilders.com/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilder.com/index.html from MasjC1@aol.com Wed Aug 26 19:34:49 1998 Subject: Re: web Jerry, I bet you can scare up some money from the list. Your site is way toovaluableto risk getting truncated now. I'd be willing to kick in a few bucks. Mark Cole from RVenneri@aol.com Wed Aug 26 19:40:33 1998 Subject: Re: web JerryI would be willing to kick in some cash too. I just found you guys.Bob VRobert Venneri's Custom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Aug 26 20:00:26 1998 Thu, 27 Aug 1998 08:59:31 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane On Wed, 26 Aug 1998 SalarFly@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 8/26/98 9:47:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au writes: OK, call me slow but I must be missing something here.This cane is *pre heat treated* presumably some time ago. What is happening to all the moisture re-entry? Is the usual thing here to heat again at a somewhat lower temp after splitting?I hate to start another round of the effects of heat treating but this dosn't seem right somehow. It is my belief that heat treating a culm isn't just moistureremoval. The reason I say this is I flame my culms, andas I reach the end of the culm I can see a lot of steamand liquid escaping from the end grain. As I continue toheat to the end of the culm, naturally the liquid gets heated under the flame - what might be called cross-linking if thiswas a polymer. There is no reason to believe this isn'thappening inside the bamboo also. Sure there is goingto be some moisture re-entry as the culm sits before use,but it will never return to it's pre heat treated softness. Darryl I'm of the same belief as heat treating the cane does seem to be something of a one way street in that short of soaking the cane in water there dosn't *seem* to be much moisture re-entry.Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culms is. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Aug 26 20:05:02 1998 Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:04:56 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane On Wed, 26 Aug 1998, Heidt wrote: At 01:41 PM 8/26/98 -0500, you wrote:Where is Terry Ackland whenyou need him?Harry Harry,I would have loved to have heard his input on the mentoring topic. I'mafraid he was a bit offended the last time the subject turned to "simplebuilding". I do miss his point of view.Gary H. Lets all email him individualy asking him to return to the list ;-) /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from DEMARALON@aol.com Wed Aug 26 20:05:23 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner boundary="part0_904179881_boundary" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_904179881_boundary Dear Mark, Sorry can't answer manyof your questions, but we do have awonderful supply of Tonkin Cane - 2 diameters - 1-3/4 - 2" and 2 - 2-1/2"- all 12 fot long. A price list is attached and hope to be of assistance toyou. Cordially, Harold H. Demarest, Charles H. Demarest, Inc. --part0_904179881_boundary name="PRICEL~1.TXT" CHARLES H. DEMAREST, INC.P. O. Box 238Bloomingdale, NJ 07403 Telephone: 973 492-1414 Facsimile: 973 838-6538e-mail: Demaralon@aol.com TONKIN CANE Pieces Minimum EachPer Bale 1 - 12 Bales Order Piece 12=92 X 1-3/4 - 2=94 20 $305.00/Bale 3 pcs. 26.00/p=c 12=92 x 2 - 2-1/2=94 20 $384.00/Bale 3 pcs. 29.00/p=c F. O. B. LAKEWOOD, NEW JERSEY The 12 foot length is available only in bale lots and can be shipped o=nly by common carrier. We prepay the freight charges and therebyreceive=a 53% or 55% discount, depending on your locaion, which we pass ontoyou=. Please provide a commercial address for delivery in order to avoid ext=ra delivery charges. Minimum orders cane be shipped via UPS if cut in half (each piece is i=dentified). For cutting, packing and shipping via UPS add: EAST OF MISSISSIPPI: Minimum order $ 25.00Each additional piece 8.30 WEST OF MISSISSIPPI: Minimum order 36.00Each additional piece 12.00 ALASKA, HAWAII, CANADA: Minimum order 22.00 plus UPS charge=sEach additional piece 7.50 plus UPS charge=s October 15, 199=7 --part0_904179881_boundary-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Aug 26 20:27:59 1998 (modemcable59.174.mmtl.videotron.net VAA17062 for Subject: RE: Pre-treated cane I think he checks his e-mail only rarely. I initially contacted him that wayand didn't receive a reply for a couple of weeks. You should probably callhim directly. His number is (514)694-1643. I agree his rods are a fabulousvalue, especially to American buyers now that our Canadian dollar hasbeenside swiped by the Asian/Russian financial meltdown. The one I saw in alocal shop was selling for around $900 Canadian and seemed like a verynicerod indeed. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Pre-treated cane I have not gotten any reply from Terry, even after several e-mails. I havea rod of his I am trying to sell and wanted more info. Maybe he is toobusy. I hope so, his rods are very nice and a good value. Bob At 03:38 PM 8/26/98 -0400, you wrote:I'm curious about Terry's input on mentoring too. I live in the same cityand contacted Terry hoping be able to hire him for a few lessons butunfortunately he declined. Does anyone know of any other bamboorodmakersinthe Montreal area? Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 3:32 PM Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane At 01:41 PM 8/26/98 -0500, you wrote:Where is Terry Ackland whenyou need him?Harry Harry,I would have loved to have heard his input on the mentoring topic. I'mafraid he was a bit offended the last time the subject turned to "simplebuilding". I do miss his point of view.Gary H.Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from sats@gte.net Wed Aug 26 21:02:59 1998 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor I use an electric clock motor for one turner and an old rotisserie motorformy other. I can turn two sections at once, which is very convenient.I have seen setups built with drive belts and pulleys for turning multiplesections using one motor.Steve Weiss Steve, I've got three electric alarm clocks that I use to turn my rods. Removeabout1/3 to 1/2 the gears and put a 3/8 plastic rod on the remaining gear. cutanotch in both the rod and the gear to give grip and put a small copper rodthrough the center of both to hold it in place. Mount the cover on aframeand you're in business. About 6~8 RPM. Total cost about $5 and two hours a unit. Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from jcole10@juno.com Wed Aug 26 22:02:20 1998 20:12:46 EDT Subject: Finishing Motor List,Thanks for all the response and imput regarding my request forinformation on finishing motors.Ask and you shall receive.John Cole from bobbo@buffnet.net Wed Aug 26 22:25:36 1998 bybuffnet4.buffnet.net (8.8.7/8.7.3) with SMTP id XAA28559 for via smap(V2.0) Subject: video I was just at the Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library site and must say it iswell done.Has anyone see the video, "Creating The Garrison Fly Rod."Is it available?It sounds interesting.( I know that Wayne's videos have done worlds ofgood Bob-----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from irvine@bamboorods.org Wed Aug 26 22:38:55 1998 smtp.bamboorods.org (NTMail 3.03.0014/1d.aabx) with ESMTP id ia014698for; Wed, 26 Aug 1998 20:41:42 -0700 Subject: Re: video Bob, I showed the film to the Alaska Flyfishers back in 1970's when I was incharge ofprograms, Then it was in a movie foremat and we all found it veryinteresting butnot a real instructional film like Waynes, like to see it again myself,Chuck bob maulucci wrote: I was just at the Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library site and must say it iswell done.Has anyone see the video, "Creating The Garrison Fly Rod."Is it available?It sounds interesting.( I know that Wayne's videos have done worlds ofgood Bob-----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from thorstad@primenet.com Wed Aug 26 23:09:05 1998 "lizard"via SMTP by smtp03.primenet.com, id smtpd028437; Wed Aug 26 21:08:511998 Subject: Binders and Ovens boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_00000081.01BDD135" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000081.01BDD135 I'm deciding what type of binder and oven to construct. I'd like to =make a counter rotating four-line binder I found on the web and =attributed to Bob Wilward. Sounds like a lot of people out there use =the Garrison type single line binder. Any comments on the points of =either? As far as an oven, I'm looking into getting a heat gun from Steiner that =has a variable temperature from 212 to 1000 F and a LED readout. Then =make the oven nothing more than an insulated "stovepipe". I plan on =exhausting it outside the house (this will tend to cool off the ambient =temperature here in Phoenix!) Am I going to owe my soul to the electric =company? By (buy) the way, the heat gun is around $160. Whaddya guys =think? Timthorstad@primenet.com P.S. - I'll chip in to keep the Rodmakers site going. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000081.01BDD135 I'm deciding whattype = the points of either? As far as an oven,I'm = getting a heat gun from Steiner that has a variable temperature from 212= = = Timthorstad@primenet.com = Rodmakers site going. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000081.01BDD135-- from bobbo@buffnet.net Wed Aug 26 23:10:52 1998 bybuffnet4.buffnet.net (8.8.7/8.7.3) with SMTP id AAA02993 for via smap(V2.0) Subject: Re: video I thought it might be more of a profile. The instructional video conceptwasnot around back then. Thanks,bobAt 08:48 PM 8/26/98 -0700, you wrote:Bob, I showed the film to the Alaska Flyfishers back in 1970's when I was incharge ofprograms, Then it was in a movie foremat and we all found it veryinteresting butnot a real instructional film like Waynes, like to see it again myself,Chuck bob maulucci wrote: I was just at the Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library site and must say itiswell done.Has anyone see the video, "Creating The Garrison Fly Rod."Is it available?It sounds interesting.( I know that Wayne's videos have done worlds ofgood Bob-----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid -----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyouwont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Aug 26 23:28:13 1998 Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens In a message dated 8/26/98 9:15:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,thorstad@primenet.com writes: Try Sears. Their heat gun (at least when I bought mine) was made bythe same company, but I think it's called Steinel, not Steiner. It was $99.95 Darryl from stpete@netten.net Wed Aug 26 23:30:29 1998 cedar.netten.net (8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id XAA17269 for Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens Tim Thorstad wrote: I'm deciding what type of binder and oven to construct. I'd like tomake a counter rotating four-line binder I found on the web andattributed to Bob Wilward. Sounds like a lot of people out there usethe Garrison type single line binder. Any comments on the points ofeither? As far as an oven, I'm looking into getting a heat gun from Steinerthat has a variable temperature from 212 to 1000 F and a LED readout.Then make the oven nothing more than an insulated "stovepipe". I planon exhausting it outside the house (this will tend to cool off theambient temperature here in Phoenix!) Am I going to owe my soul tothe electric company? By (buy) the way, the heat gun is around $160.Whaddya guys think? Timthorstad@primenet.com P.S. - I'll chip in to keep the Rodmakers site going. Tim, If you are going to spend $160 on a heat gun, why don't you just build aheat strip oven per W.Cattanach? I think you'd be happier with it. If you want an easy to make hot air oven, you can find a heat gun atSears for about $39. Side vents on the gun give pretty fair controlover temperature, but not like Wayne's oven. BTW, you know you have to build a 13' oven now to pre-heat treat yourculms! Harry, did you know Digger mentions pre-heat treated cane on hisvideo, so I've been thinking about how to do that. Honestly though, I went cheap with the hot air oven, but there are timesI wish I had the mica heat strip oven for multiple uses, such as lowtemp drying and humidity control. But you don't have to worry aboutthat in Phoenix do you! Rick from saweiss@flash.net Wed Aug 26 23:38:38 1998 Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0023_01BDD142.4AF72700" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BDD142.4AF72700 -----Original Message-----From: Tim Thorstad Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 10:17 PMSubject: Binders and Ovens I'm deciding what type of binder and oven to construct. I'd like to =make a counter rotating four-line binder I found on the web and =attributed to Bob Wilward. Sounds like a lot of people out there use =the Garrison type single line binder. Any comments on the points of =either? As far as an oven, I'm looking into getting a heat gun from Steiner =that has a variable temperature from 212 to 1000 F and a LED readout. =Then make the oven nothing more than an insulated "stovepipe". I plan =on exhausting it outside the house (this will tend to cool off the =ambient temperature here in Phoenix!) Am I going to owe my soul to the =electric company? By (buy) the way, the heat gun is around $160. =Whaddya guys think? Timthorstad@primenet.com P.S. - I'll chip in to keep the Rodmakers site going. Tim,I recently built this type oven. I use a Sears industrial grade =heat gun, it has the same features as the Steinel but costs about $100.I built a Garrison type binder and it works fine.Steven Weiss ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BDD142.4AF72700 -----Original = Rodmakers <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Wednesday, August 26, 1998 10:17 PMSubject: Binders= Ovens I'm deciding what= lot of people out there use the Garrison type single line = comments on the points of either? As far as an oven,= into getting a heat gun from Steiner that has a variable temperature = the house (this will tend to cool off the ambient temperature here = think? Timthorstad@primenet.com the Rodmakers site going. Tim,I recently built = features as the Steinel but costs about $100. fine. Weiss ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BDD142.4AF72700-- from ragnarig@integrityol.com Thu Aug 27 02:02:03 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A62C7EB0060; Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:09:32 PDT Subject: Re: Reel plans Paul I've got the 1951 Mechanix Illustrated plans and you're welcome to a copy,but they are for a metal reel, not wooden. I think Carsten Jorgensen (right, Carsten?) has made a wooden one. Maybehewould share some info? Davy -----Original Message----- Subject: Reel plans Some time ago, there was someone who had plans for a wooden reel. Theseplans were in a '50's Mechanix Ilustrated, or something like that. I hadrequested a copy, and never have recieved one to date. If anyone hastheseplans, please let me know. I will pay all costs encured for repro &shipping. Thanks Paul http://www.irvine.quik.com/mrbamboo/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilders.com/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilder.com/index.html from saltwein@swbell.net Thu Aug 27 06:29:16 1998 gw4adm.rcsntx.swbell.net GAA01296 Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens Tim, I built the Milward binder and I really like it. I don't have areference as I have used no other binder than doing the first rod byhand. It does take a little time to tweak the binder to get the threadtension set the same. I am still in the stone age as far as ovens go. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from stpete@netten.net Thu Aug 27 06:47:21 1998 cedar.netten.net (8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id GAA17138 for Subject: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the 'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick from ragnarig@integrityol.com Thu Aug 27 06:57:30 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id AB758BF0060; Thu, 27 Aug 1998 05:05:09 PDT Subject: Re: Nickel Silver tubing boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDD176.DB000680" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDD176.DB000680 Richard This was Homer Jennings, whose number I sought a day or two ago. = Davy-----Original Message-----From: Richard Schiller Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 1:49 PMSubject: Nickel Silver tubing Several weeks ago someone placed a note on the list saying that = Could that person please send me the name and phone number of the =seller. I mistakenly erased the address message from my files before I had a =chance to reply. (Not to bright a move, eh) Dick ShillerCrestwood KY ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDD176.DB000680 Richard This was Homer Jennings, whose= 719 573 8923 Davy -----Original = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Monday, August 24, 1998 1:49 PMSubject: Nickel Silver= tubingSeveral weeks ago = note on the list saying that someone in CO. might have some NS = Could that person = the name and phone number of the seller. I mistakenly erasedthe = message from my files before I had a chance to reply. (Not to bright = Dick =Shiller KY ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDD176.DB000680-- from briansr@point-net.com Thu Aug 27 07:47:42 1998 0000 Subject: varnish boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0068_01BDD197.1D1934E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BDD197.1D1934E0 Thanks Chris for your answer re: the question on varnish. I just thought =that varnishing the blank before adding the guides & ferrules would =protect the bamboo somewhat from wear especially from the guides.I was=planning on going this route and then using a riggers brush to varnish =the wraps after.this I feel would seal the blank to any moisture . Or =would tong oil inhibit any epoxy adhesion? Brian S. ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BDD197.1D1934E0 Thanks Chris for your answer re:the = varnish. I just thought that varnishing the blank before adding the = ferrules would protect the bamboo somewhat from wear especially fromthe = guides.I was planning on going this route and then using a riggers brush = varnish the wraps after.this I feel would seal the blank to any moisture = would tong oil inhibit any epoxy adhesion? Brian S. ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BDD197.1D1934E0-- from jwilcox@netsync.net Thu Aug 27 08:36:26 1998 quartz.netsync.net (8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id JAA13901 for; Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:36:22 -0400 Subject: vacation boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD19E.1082FDE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD19E.1082FDE0 SET RODMAKERS MAIL ACK ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD19E.1082FDE0 ACK ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD19E.1082FDE0-- from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Thu Aug 27 08:55:26 1998 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id IAA31655 for (8.8.4/8.6.8)with SMTP id IAA18085 for ; Thu, 27 Aug1998 08:55:17 Subject: Re: web If Jerry or Wayne or anyone needs some web or ftp space for an archiveof some sort or software distribution, etc. I can supply. One of theside benefits of working for the campus computing center is unlimiteddisk space. Only thing I can't have are commercial or business pages. Jerry, maybe I could take over the Rodmakers archive end if it. That must be a big chunk of the disk space.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Wed, 26 Aug 1998 MasjC1@aol.com wrote: Jerry, I bet you can scare up some money from the list. Your site is way toovaluableto risk getting truncated now. I'd be willing to kick in a few bucks. Mark Cole from tom@cet-inc.com Thu Aug 27 09:09:49 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Tony,If I'm not using flamed cane, I heat treat the culm after cutting it intosections (two or three pieces) in my hot air oven. Its amazing how muchthis"pretreatment" eases splitting and rough planing. I very seldom have to"steer" a split with a knife in a vise while making my strips.Tom Whittle -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Thu Aug 27 09:22:01 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Reel plans Paul,Del Coppock has a picture of one on his page at.http://www.trwebsites.com/dell/ Maybe he can provide someinformation.Hope this helps,Harry BoydDavid wrote: Paul I've got the 1951 Mechanix Illustrated plans and you're welcome to acopy,but they are for a metal reel, not wooden. I think Carsten Jorgensen (right, Carsten?) has made a wooden one. Maybe hewould share some info? Davy -----Original Message-----From: Paul Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 5:31 PMSubject: Reel plans Some time ago, there was someone who had plans for a wooden reel. Theseplans were in a '50's Mechanix Ilustrated, or something like that. I hadrequested a copy, and never have recieved one to date. If anyone hastheseplans, please let me know. I will pay all costs encured for repro &shipping. Thanks Paul http://www.irvine.quik.com/mrbamboo/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilders.com/index.htmlhttp://www.rodbuilder.com/index.html from dmanders@ccinet.ab.ca Thu Aug 27 09:40:57 1998 Subject: knurls Guys, Have been using a fine diamond pattern for my reel seats - would like totry a different type of knurlpattern. Any ideas where I guy might findsome. Thanx, Don from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Aug 27 10:28:57 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Varnish Brian, The method you describe is also widely used. Many put a pre-coat of some kind on the blank, wrap the guides, preserve if desired, then dip the desired number of coats of poly or spar. I've not used the epoxy formula over wraps so I don't know how it sticks to tung oil in particular. I use spar varnish or polyurethane over the wraps before dipping and you coulddo the same after dipping. If you varnish the blank before wrapping be sure it's cured good before wrapping on the guides. The wraps have a tendency to dig into the finish a little if your tension is tight and it makes it difficult to get tight wraps. Also when you brush the wraps you'll want to overlap onto the blank only a fraction. This is the area that stands out on a rod that is varnished then wrapped. Of course it's all cosmetic and has nothing to do with fishing. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Thu Aug 27 10:32:44 1998 0400 Subject: Re[2]: Pre-treated cane Tom, do you then heat treat again prior to final planing? Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Pre- treated cane Author: at Tcpgate Tony,If I'm not using flamed cane, I heat treat the culm after cutting it intosections (two or three pieces) in my hot air oven. Its amazing how muchthis"pretreatment" eases splitting and rough planing. I very seldom have to"steer" a split with a knife in a vise while making my strips.Tom Whittle -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from briansr@point-net.com Thu Aug 27 10:41:51 1998 0000 Subject: Spey tapers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD1AF.9A4A8960" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD1AF.9A4A8960 Anyone got any Spey tapers & or Del Coppacks e-mail address . ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD1AF.9A4A8960 Anyone got any Spey tapers &or = e-mail address . ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD1AF.9A4A8960-- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Thu Aug 27 11:04:37 1998 Fri, 28 Aug 1998 00:03:40 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Tom,thanks for replying to my question. As I'm into nodeless rods it's not something I need to bother with but there are a few people getting into it over here now and these things are interesting to pass along. Tony On Thu, 27 Aug 1998, Tom Whittle wrote: Tony,If I'm not using flamed cane, I heat treat the culm after cutting it intosections (two or three pieces) in my hot air oven. Its amazing how muchthis"pretreatment" eases splitting and rough planing. I very seldom have to"steer" a split with a knife in a vise while making my strips.Tom Whittle -----Original Message-----From: Tony Young Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:57 PMSubject: Re: Pre-treated cane Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Thu Aug 27 11:06:32 1998 Fri, 28 Aug 1998 00:06:10 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: knurls On Thu, 27 Aug 1998, Don Andersen wrote: Guys, Have been using a fine diamond pattern for my reel seats - would like totry a different type of knurlpattern. Any ideas where I guy might findsome. Thanx, Don I looked into this a little while back. I was wanting a rope pattern. The guy behind the counter at a reasonably large engeneering supply place looked at me like I had two heads when I asked for something other than the usual diamond pattern and suggested I try a tool maker. I neverbothered. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Aug 27 11:21:58 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Mentoring advice for a beginner There seems to be two general types of people who make bamboo flyrods. The "engineers" enjoy the process of making the equipment as well as the flyrods. They are innovative, skilled and I envy them. The other main group are the ones who want to make flyrods and aren't as interested in tool construction. If you're in this latter group then I would recommend purchasing the basic tools as soon as you can and get started making one from a books direction or if you're lucky, as I was, from the hands on direction of a professional. The time and energy it must take to make your own tools should be reserved for those that enjoy this kind of work. Most of us have accumulated a few flyrods and other equipment over the years. If money is tight, try to sell some of this extra stuff to raise funds for planing forms, planes, binder, and the supplies needed to make a rod. I have sold several old bamboo rods to raise money. When I originally acquired them I vowed never to part with them, but you don't miss them that much when you start making your own. You can still hang onto a couple of favorites. Many of us also start out as refinishers of old bamboo rods. If you master this phase of the process it speeds up the learning process considerably. Also, if you become skilled at refinishing it is another means to trade for supplies or make some extra money to cover the costs of your tools. Other than that, start making a flyrod. You'll soon know whether this will become an addiction or is a passing phase. Either way is O.K. If you only make a couple of rods you can assume you've paid for the cost of your tools. If you have a family then the rodmaking shifts are generally 10:00PM- Midnight and 5:00AM-7:00AM, assuming you have a 8-5 typeworkday, (I know I shouldn't assume that). Don't burn up your weekends makingrods, this will only undermine the family structure in one way or another. Over time your family will become aware of how important making flyrods isand will begin providing encouragement as long as you don't abuse the privelege. Hope this helps. Chris mcdowellc@lanecc.edu from rmoon@ida.net Thu Aug 27 12:53:08 1998 Subject: Re: Mentoring advice for a beginner Very well said Chris! Ralph Moon from "drobert@agt.net"@agt.net Thu Aug 27 13:00:06 1998 (edtnps04.telusplanet.net release 220 ID# 0-51631U125000L125000S0V35) with SMTP id net 0600 Subject: Re: APOLOGY Douglas P. Easton wrote: At 09:04 AM 7/8/98 -0500, Steve Stillabower wrote:I APOLOGISE TO THE LIST FOR MY LAST MESSAGE - I MEANT IT TO GOPRIVATELY. Steve Steve Stillabower Steve, You have, however matched my sentiments! -Regards to all-D.P. EastonSubscriberunsubscribe from "drobert@agt.net"@agt.net Thu Aug 27 13:04:09 1998 (edtnps04.telusplanet.net release 220 ID# 0-51631U125000L125000S0V35) with SMTP id net 0600 Subject: Re: Mentoring Advice for a Beginner Art Port wrote: Mark,I built about 20 rods a few years back and quit for awhile. I wasastoundedat the amount of new info available at the Rodmakers' Archives and wentthrugh that source copying the relevent details to Word- for-Windows(copy-and-pasting it into a Word document, month by month). I suggestyou dothe same and reread it after you've saved what you thought important. Iwillgladly forward my gleanings but you may find that mine jumps over somedetails important for a beginner. (Once you have what you think isimportantin a "Word" document you can use "Find" to locate anything you collectedwithout having to connect to the Rodmakers' Site.) Good luck and heedCarsten's advice; you won't go far wrong if you keep in touch with theguyson this list-server. They are well-informed, incredibly generous withtheirtime and knowledge and not so opinionated that you have to takeeverythingwith grains of salt.Best,Art So I'd like to ask the question: Looking back to your day at squareone, what advice would you now pass on to someone wanting to getstarted?Mark Evans Please send info available. Thanx Don from cmj@post11.tele.dk Thu Aug 27 13:09:25 1998 (InterMail v4.0 217-106) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Sv: Reel plans NAA00963 I think Carsten Jorgensen (right, Carsten?) has made a wooden one. Maybe hewould share some info? Davy Davy , you're right. I,ve made two wooden flyreels. One with an ordinarypawl andratchet brake and one with an adjustable disc brake, with the power tostop atrain ( an advertising slogan from a wellknown purveyor of flyreels - ILOVE IT,its so absolutely idiotic)Visit my homepage at http://home11.inet.tele.dk/cmj/ It is in danish, butclick at"Artikler" and You'll see a picture of one of the reels. I'll write some info in the near future, but right now I am packing for afishingtrip abroad, leaving in the morning. Brown trout - bevare! regards Carsten from cmj@post11.tele.dk Thu Aug 27 13:09:28 1998 (InterMail v4.0 217-106) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Sv: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod NAA05125 Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the 'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick Rick Asbjorn Horgard is a Norwegian rod company, famous at least inScandinavia formaking first rate quality cane flyrods. The company is by now liquidated.Thestory goes that when closing shop, they burned their entire stock of tonkinin ahuge bonfire. Don't know if it's true. Norwegian contributors, step forward and and enlighten us, please. Carsten "danish" Jorgensen from amcsmith@nlis.net Thu Aug 27 14:16:51 1998 Subject: silk Please put my name on your list for the silk my first such purchase andsend me the adress and amout for the check chris smithps thankyou for the effort from tom@cet-inc.com Thu Aug 27 14:44:19 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Pre-treated cane Andy,Yep, I still heat treat the rough planed strips to remove any moisture andprovide some "browntoning" with ammonium carbonate. After that I keepthestrips and or glued blanks in a dessicant tube or drying box to prevent anymoisture re-entry until I have applied some varnish. I'm not sure that thesecond heat treatment is necessary or that moisture reentry is really aproblem. Its also possible to browntone the unsplit culm sections. But,sometimes my strips set around for some time before or after I roughplanethem. Tom-----Original Message----- Subject: Re[2]: Pre-treated cane Tom, do you then heat treat again prior to final planing? Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Pre- treated caneAuthor: at TcpgateDate: 8/27/98 10:11 AM Tony,If I'm not using flamed cane, I heat treat the culm after cutting it intosections (two or three pieces) in my hot air oven. Its amazing how muchthis"pretreatment" eases splitting and rough planing. I very seldom have to"steer" a split with a knife in a vise while making my strips.Tom Whittle -----Original Message-----From: Tony Young Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:57 PMSubject: Re: Pre-treated cane Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from jfoster@gte.net Thu Aug 27 15:04:48 1998 Subject: help Could one of our Italian makers help this gentleman get signed up onthelistproc.regards jerry Subject:help !Date:Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:29:03 +0200From:"Farmacia Burelli" Ser , can you help me ? My name is Gian Paolo Caldari , I am an italianchemist doctor and I love to fish with a bamboo fly rod ! I would liketomake one myself but I do not know how......I just knowed the book : " a master's guide to building a bamboo fly rod " , but in Italy it'simpossible to find it . Can you tell me how I can do ? Have you thetelefonnumber of Martha's glen publishing co. ? Do you know if in europe thereisa library that have the book?Thank you for all , excuse my english , and my E-MAIL is "burelli@odd.it " CIAO Gian Paolo Caldari from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Thu Aug 27 15:25:04 1998 0400 Subject: Re[4]: Pre-treated cane Thanks, Tom...Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Re[2]: Pre- treated cane Author: at Tcpgate Andy,Yep, I still heat treat the rough planed strips to remove any moisture andprovide some "browntoning" with ammonium carbonate. After that I keepthestrips and or glued blanks in a dessicant tube or drying box to prevent anymoisture re-entry until I have applied some varnish. I'm not sure that thesecond heat treatment is necessary or that moisture reentry is really aproblem. Its also possible to browntone the unsplit culm sections. But,sometimes my strips set around for some time before or after I roughplanethem. Tom-----Original Message----- Subject: Re[2]: Pre-treated cane Tom, do you then heat treat again prior to final planing? Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Pre- treated caneAuthor: at TcpgateDate: 8/27/98 10:11 AM Tony,If I'm not using flamed cane, I heat treat the culm after cutting it intosections (two or three pieces) in my hot air oven. Its amazing how muchthis"pretreatment" eases splitting and rough planing. I very seldom have to"steer" a split with a knife in a vise while making my strips.Tom Whittle -----Original Message-----From: Tony Young Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:57 PMSubject: Re: Pre-treated cane Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from rmoon@ida.net Thu Aug 27 15:48:35 1998 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane TomA long time ago, I tried to browntone some strips with ammonia. Ireally couldn't see any hope for the process and discontined it. I aminterested though in attaining a consistent brown color without burningthe hell out of the cane. Can you give me an idea of how your are usingthe ammonium carbonate? I thank you Ralph Moon from tom@cet-inc.com Thu Aug 27 16:48:00 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Ralph,I learned how to browntone from George Maurer while learning the craft.Please give him any credit due. I simply put some chunks of ammoniumcarbonate in the bottom of my hot air oven (Frank Neumann sp? style fromthe"Best Of"), while heat treating. I can get my rods to a caramel color withthe carbonate. Without it, the same heat treatment would result in a honeycolored rod. George uses a heat strip oven, I think it gets a darkerbrowntone faster than my hot air one. When heated the carbonate gives offvery strong ammonia fumes. You need good ventilation. Also, keep in mind,the fumes can be corrosive to oven parts. I bought some carbonate at alocallaboratory supply store. George says that you should be able to buy itcheaper from a bakery supply house. I'm pretty sure George discusses browntoning in his soon to be publishedbook. from what I have seen of the manuscript, it will be an excellentresource. Hope I haven't discouraged you too much, if I can help more, I'dbe happy to.Tom-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane TomA long time ago, I tried to browntone some strips with ammonia. Ireally couldn't see any hope for the process and discontined it. I aminterested though in attaining a consistent brown color without burningthe hell out of the cane. Can you give me an idea of how your are usingthe ammonium carbonate? I thank you Ralph Moon from ragnarig@integrityol.com Thu Aug 27 18:01:37 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A72EB4E0134; Thu, 27 Aug 1998 16:09:34 PDT Subject: Re: Reel plans Davy , you're right. I,ve made two wooden flyreels. One with an ordinarypawl and ratchet brake and one with an adjustable disc brake, with thepowerto stop a train ( an advertising slogan from a wellknown purveyor offlyreels - I LOVE IT, its so absolutely idiotic)Visit my homepage at http://home11.inet.tele.dk/cmj/ It is in danish, butclick at "Artikler" and You'll see a picture of one of the reels. Carsten That is one sexy lookin' reel, Buddy! Any chance of you sharing a littledetail on the more intimate details of her anatomy?And Good luck with those Brownies! Davy from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Thu Aug 27 18:15:41 1998 18:15:05 ix5.ix.netcom.comvia smap (V1.3) Subject: Re: knurls I got a KBC Tools catalog in last week. They have several knurls listed;straight, left and right diagonal and two varieties of diamond. Some go to50 tpi and some up to 80 tpi. They have a pretty good selection of sizesalso. ever tried one of these in a router to rough out a planing form? Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Guys, Have been using a fine diamond pattern for my reel seats - would like totry a different type of knurlpattern. Any ideas where I guy might findsome. Thanx, Don I looked into this a little while back. I was wanting a rope pattern. The guy behind the counter at a reasonably large engeneering supply place looked at me like I had two heads when I asked for something other than the usual diamond pattern and suggested I try a tool maker. I neverbothered. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from mstevens@ptdprolog.net Thu Aug 27 18:37:09 1998 0000 Subject: Re: knurls Hello, One of the best sources I have found for knurls is Eagle Rock TechnologiesInc. of Bath PA. They have a complete line of knurls of all types and offercustom made knurls to your specs. Including Square, diagonal dots, male orfemale and convex or concave straight or diagonal. You can call them for a catalog @: 1 800 324 5376 These knurls are high quality made in Germany. make someone a good fishing rod. Email if interested. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 mstevens@ptdprolog.net Stevens Sight & Tool CoMaker of fine sights for antique single shot target rifles Collector of Heddon and other bamboo flyrods and casting rods. HeddonRiverRunt Spooks and Coxe baitcasting reels. from rclarke@eou.edu Thu Aug 27 18:57:50 1998 Subject: Re: knurls Michael, I have a Peerless Deluxe #35 that is a lot of fun. It is a littleheavy, but I would recommend it for situations when you don't know whattype of conditions you will be fishing. I actually have a taper for it ifanyone is interested. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu ----------From: Michael Stevens Subject: Re: knurlsDate: Thursday, August 27, 1998 4:39 PM Hello, One of the best sources I have found for knurls is Eagle RockTechnologiesInc. of Bath PA. They have a complete line of knurls of all types andoffercustom made knurls to your specs. Including Square, diagonal dots, maleorfemale and convex or concave straight or diagonal. You can call them for a catalog @: 1 800 324 5376 These knurls are high quality made in Germany. willmake someone a good fishing rod. Email if interested. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 mstevens@ptdprolog.net Stevens Sight & Tool CoMaker of fine sights for antique single shot target rifles Collector of Heddon and other bamboo flyrods and casting rods. HeddonRiverRunt Spooks and Coxe baitcasting reels. from penr0295@eoni.com Thu Aug 27 19:43:43 1998 adam.eoni.com(8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id RAA23595 for ;Thu, 27 Aug1998 17:44:00 -0700 Subject: Re: knurls I'd be free for Sunday for the Wallowa. Just let me know.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: knurls Michael, I have a Peerless Deluxe #35 that is a lot of fun. It is a littleheavy, but I would recommend it for situations when you don't know whattype of conditions you will be fishing. I actually have a taper for it ifanyone is interested. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu ----------From: Michael Stevens Subject: Re: knurlsDate: Thursday, August 27, 1998 4:39 PM Hello, One of the best sources I have found for knurls is Eagle RockTechnologiesInc. of Bath PA. They have a complete line of knurls of all types andoffercustom made knurls to your specs. Including Square, diagonal dots, maleorfemale and convex or concave straight or diagonal. You can call them for a catalog @: 1 800 324 5376 These knurls are high quality made in Germany. willmake someone a good fishing rod. Email if interested. Mike Michael StevensRR 1 Box 307CEffort PA 18330 610 681 5670 mstevens@ptdprolog.net Stevens Sight & Tool CoMaker of fine sights for antique single shot target rifles Collector of Heddon and other bamboo flyrods and casting rods. HeddonRiverRunt Spooks and Coxe baitcasting reels. from fquinchat@locl.net Thu Aug 27 20:55:39 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id UAA10996 for ;Thu, 27 Aug Subject: Re: Knurls Jeff, Thanks much, I'll give J&L a try. Also some mentioned Eagle RockTechnologies as a source. Dennis Bertram ---------- Subject: Knurls Someone on the list had a questions about finding knurls that had a hightooth per inch count. I have recently been searching for the best source 1-800-521-9520. They have a large selection of knurls that go as high as80TPI. Please excuse this response if your question has already beenanswered, I have had email problems over the last couple of weeks. Thanks, Jeff Arnold from saweiss@flash.net Thu Aug 27 22:01:27 1998 Subject: Re: knurls -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: knurls I got a KBC Tools catalog in last week. They have several knurls listed;straight, left and right diagonal and two varieties of diamond. Some goto50 tpi and some up to 80 tpi. They have a pretty good selection of sizesalso. anyoneever tried one of these in a router to rough out a planing form? Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Onis,Do you have an e-mail address, web site, or phone # for KBC?Thanks,Steve Weiss from Bmbooman@aol.com Thu Aug 27 22:33:49 1998 Subject: Re: Finishing Motor John: I have 2 motors that I got from Angler's Workshop. They have a webpage.I have also used an old sewing machine motor. With that you can setit atjust about any speed. Donnie WeningerAurora, Oregon from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 27 23:06:31 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: knurls I, too, was looking for a rope pattern. I used one of the search engines tosearch for jewelry supply (tools) & found a place that sold knurlingtools -- I sent an e-mail explaining the type of pattern I was looking forand the material (752 nickel silver - 18%) and they responded that theythought it was too hard to knurl with their tool! Still looking, too. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: knurls On Thu, 27 Aug 1998, Don Andersen wrote: Guys, Have been using a fine diamond pattern for my reel seats - would like totry a different type of knurlpattern. Any ideas where I guy might findsome. Thanx, Don I looked into this a little while back. I was wanting a rope pattern. Theguy behind the counter at a reasonably large engeneering supply placelooked at me like I had two heads when I asked for something other thanthe usual diamond pattern and suggested I try a tool maker. I neverbothered. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from morten@flash.net Thu Aug 27 23:13:11 1998 Subject: Re: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Rick Crenshaw wrote: Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the 'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick Rick,Asbjorn Horg๖rd was a major Norwegian rod company located inTrondheim. Unfortunately, it was recently purchased by Solvkroken A/S. Solvkrokendoes not produce bamboo rods. Horg๖rd made excellent bamboo rods up toabout 1980. Around that same time, the company donated all bambootooling to the Norwegian Forestry Museum located in Elverum. Thismuseum is also the host to Norway's annual "Fly Fishing Days" or annualconclave. Most Horg๖rd rods are quite big for american standards - salmon, seatrout, etc. I had a Golden Fly several years ago. It was a 3 pc. 9', about a #6line, unserrated brass ferrules and green wraps. Horg๖rds moreexclusive models have serrated ferrules (brass) and some were hollowbuilt. Collectors in Norway trade good examples of Horg๖rd rods in the$200 to $500 range. I have a booklet on the history of Asbjorn Horg๖rd A/S and would behappy to copy it for you. I visited the factory and toured the facilitywith Bjorn Horg๖rd back in 1978 or 1979. Johan Nyg๖rdsvold knows alot more about specific Horg๖rd rods, maybe hecan help answer your questions. He's on this net. "Johan, N๖ har du sjangsen" Best Regards, Morten Lovstad from lcdr.hallowell@smtp.cnet.navy.mil Fri Aug 28 07:09:20 1998 (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA24646; Fri, 28 Aug 1998 07:11:03 -0500 R8.00.01) Subject: Re[2]: video I have seen a copy of this video and it is worth watching. The Chicago Fly Fishers have a boot leg copy. I have not seen another seen than. If you need their phone number I can get it for you Mark Hallowell ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: video Author: at INTERNET I thought it might be more of a profile. The instructional video conceptwas not around back then. Thanks,bobAt 08:48 PM 8/26/98 -0700, you wrote: Bob, I showed the film to the Alaska Flyfishers back in 1970's when I was in charge ofprograms, Then it was in a movie foremat and we all found it very interesting butnot a real instructional film like Waynes, like to see it again myself,Chuck bob maulucci wrote: I was just at the Ultimate Bamboo Fly Rod Library site and must say itis well done.Has anyone see the video, "Creating The Garrison Fly Rod." Is it available?It sounds interesting.( I know that Wayne's videos have done worlds ofgood Bob-----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyou wont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - Kenneth Reid -----------------------------Bob Maulucci218 Wallace Ave.Buffalo, New York 14216716-836-8297 http://www.buffnet.net/~bobbo/welcome.htm "Establish a better reputation for honesty in your home community; thenyou wont have to bring in dead fish to prove that your not a liar." - KennethReid from lcdr.hallowell@smtp.cnet.navy.mil Fri Aug 28 09:03:32 1998 (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA01374; Fri, 28 Aug 1998 09:05:10 -0500 R8.00.01) Subject: Re[2]: Binders and Ovens Tim, If you go with Wayne's oven you may want to contact him. He has acontact that knows what we want and will ship the element and thermostat etc. Mark Hallowell ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens Author: at INTERNET Tim Thorstad wrote: I'm deciding what type of binder and oven to construct. I'd like to make a counter rotating four-line binder I found on the web andattributed to Bob Wilward. Sounds like a lot of people out there use the Garrison type single line binder. Any comments on the points of either? As far as an oven, I'm looking into getting a heat gun from Steinerthat has a variable temperature from 212 to 1000 F and a LED readout. Then make the oven nothing more than an insulated "stovepipe". I plan on exhausting it outside the house (this will tend to cool off theambient temperature here in Phoenix!) Am I going to owe my soul tothe electric company? By (buy) the way, the heat gun is around $160. Whaddya guys think? Timthorstad@primenet.com P.S. - I'll chip in to keep the Rodmakers site going. Tim, If you are going to spend $160 on a heat gun, why don't you just build a heat strip oven per W.Cattanach? I think you'd be happier with it. If you want an easy to make hot air oven, you can find a heat gun at Sears for about $39. Side vents on the gun give pretty fair control over temperature, but not like Wayne's oven. BTW, you know you have to build a 13' oven now to pre-heat treat your culms! Harry, did you know Digger mentions pre-heat treated cane on his video, so I've been thinking about how to do that. Honestly though, I went cheap with the hot air oven, but there are times I wish I had the mica heat strip oven for multiple uses, such as low temp drying and humidity control. But you don't have to worry about that in Phoenix do you! Rick from donkovach@email.msn.com Fri Aug 28 12:12:17 1998 (may beforged)) SMTPSVC;Fri, 28 Aug 1998 10:11:28 -0700 Subject: Unsubscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD285.0AA65C40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD285.0AA65C40 Unsubscribe RODMAKERS Donald M. KovachAdministratorMedical Wellness Associates ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD285.0AA65C40 UnsubscribeRODMAKERS Donald M. = ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD285.0AA65C40-- from mweber@icscorp.com Fri Aug 28 14:53:16 1998 mgmt-server1.icscorp.com(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;Fri, 28 Aug 1998 15:47:14 -0400 15:56:03 -0400 Subject: Test Test. Test. from rclarke@eou.edu Fri Aug 28 16:26:05 1998 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Binders and Ovens I built an oven per Wayne's specs and I really like it. I am still on myfirst rod, but it works well. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu ----------From: LCDR HALLOWELL Subject: Re[2]: Binders and Ovens Date: Thursday, August 27, 1998 6:50 AM Tim, If you go with Wayne's oven you may want to contact him. He has acontact that knows what we want and will ship the element and thermostat etc. Mark Hallowell ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Binders and Ovens Author: at INTERNETDate: 8/26/98 11:29 PM Tim Thorstad wrote: I'm deciding what type of binder and oven to construct. I'd like to make a counter rotating four-line binder I found on the web andattributed to Bob Wilward. Sounds like a lot of people out there use the Garrison type single line binder. Any comments on the points of either? As far as an oven, I'm looking into getting a heat gun from Steinerthat has a variable temperature from 212 to 1000 F and a LED readout. Then make the oven nothing more than an insulated "stovepipe". I plan on exhausting it outside the house (this will tend to cool off theambient temperature here in Phoenix!) Am I going to owe my soul tothe electric company? By (buy) the way, the heat gun is around $160. Whaddya guys think? Timthorstad@primenet.com P.S. - I'll chip in to keep the Rodmakers site going. Tim, If you are going to spend $160 on a heat gun, why don't you just build a heat strip oven per W.Cattanach? I think you'd be happier with it. If you want an easy to make hot air oven, you can find a heat gun at Sears for about $39. Side vents on the gun give pretty fair control over temperature, but not like Wayne's oven. BTW, you know you have to build a 13' oven now to pre-heat treat your culms! Harry, did you know Digger mentions pre-heat treated cane on his video, so I've been thinking about how to do that. Honestly though, I went cheap with the hot air oven, but there are times I wish I had the mica heat strip oven for multiple uses, such as low temp drying and humidity control. But you don't have to worry about that in Phoenix do you! Rick from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Aug 28 16:27:04 1998 (modemcable126.173.mmtl.videotron.net RAA16962 for Subject: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD2A6.FE00A0A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD2A6.FE00A0A0 My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm about tomake the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record and Stanley 91/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (The Recordgoes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able to try both of these and beenable to reach a conclusion as to which is better? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transforms eitherthe Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautifulLie-Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering thischeaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD2A6.FE00A0A0 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm about to = mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record and Stanley 9 1/2 = planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (The Record goes = cdn) Have any of you been able to try both of these and been able to = conclusion as to which is better? they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transforms either = or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautiful = scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering this cheaper = What do you think? thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD2A6.FE00A0A0-- from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Aug 28 17:05:56 1998 quartz.netsync.net(8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id SAA14545 for ;Fri, 28 Aug1998 18:05:50 -0400 Subject: vacation rodmakers Jerry Quinn postpone from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Aug 28 17:06:02 1998 quartz.netsync.net(8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id SAA14148 for ;Fri, 28 Aug1998 18:00:01 -0400 Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm aboutto make the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record andStanley 9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than theStanley. (The Record goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able totry both of these and been able to reach a conclusion as to which isbetter? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transformseither the Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totallybeautiful Lie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'mconsidering this cheaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca do you have a phone number where I can order a catalog? from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Fri Aug 28 17:30:08 1998 17:29:33 ix16.ix.netcom.comvia smap (V1.3) Subject: Re: knurls Sure do. It's http://www.kbctools.com/. They have a nice thick catalogand are very quick when you request one. Mine came back about a weekafterI requested it. Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com At 09:00 PM 8/27/98 -0600, you wrote: -----Original Message-----From: Onis Cogburn Date: Thursday, August 27, 1998 5:22 PMSubject: Re: knurls I got a KBC Tools catalog in last week. They have several knurls listed;straight, left and right diagonal and two varieties of diamond. Some goto50 tpi and some up to 80 tpi. They have a pretty good selection of sizesalso. anyoneever tried one of these in a router to rough out a planing form? Regards,Onisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com Onis,Do you have an e-mail address, web site, or phone # for KBC?Thanks,Steve Weiss from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Aug 28 18:16:50 1998 (modemcable126.173.mmtl.videotron.net TAA11054 for Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Hi Jerry. Lee Valley Tools can be reached at 1-800-267-8767. All pricesarein Canadian dollars which are worth a petty 63 cents to the US$ right nowsoyou can get some great deals. I'm in no way affiliated. Just a satisfiedcustomer from years of ordering gardening supplies. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm aboutto make the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record andStanley 9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than theStanley. (The Record goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able totry both of these and been able to reach a conclusion as to which isbetter? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transformseither the Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totallybeautiful Lie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'mconsidering this cheaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca do you have a phone number where I can order a catalog? from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri Aug 28 18:26:48 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard, I'm curious what the price is for the Stanley #9 1/2 in the Lee Valley catalog. Garrett-Wade lists it at about $44 and $130 for the Lie Nielson #212. I ordered my Stanley through a local hardware store for $38. What is the Canadian price for these two planes? Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri Aug 28 18:52:47 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard, I see your original post stated the price of the #9 1/2. My mind is gone this Friday afternoon. I would still be grateful to know the Canadian price of the #212. Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from chris@artistree.com Fri Aug 28 19:09:23 1998 RAA04537 Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert I think you guys will find that William Alden @ 1-800-948-4483 has someofthe best prices on Stanley Planes. The 9 1/2 is $28.99 plus shipping. Ipersonally prefer it over the Record as it tends to be a bit heavier. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com CHRISTOPHER C MCDOWELL wrote: Richard, I see your original post stated the price of the #9 1/2. My mind is gonethis Friday afternoon. I would still be grateful to know the Canadianprice of the #212. Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Aug 28 19:22:37 1998 Subject: Re: knurls Don,As far as a rope knurl or anything like that,they have to be custommade. I've checked with every company there is and nobody makes them.And Ithink they would cost a pretty penny.Thats why I've never gotten into ropeknurlon my components. Dave LeClairThe Fly and Rod Room from mrbamboo@quik.com Fri Aug 28 19:29:07 1998 Subject: Re: Reel plans -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Reel plans Paul I've got the 1951 Mechanix Illustrated plans and you're welcome to acopy,but they are for a metal reel, not wooden. I think Carsten Jorgensen (right, Carsten?) has made a wooden one. Maybehewould share some info? Davy -----Original Message-----From: Paul Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 5:31 PMSubject: Reel plans Some time ago, there was someone who had plans for a wooden reel. Theseplans were in a '50's Mechanix Ilustrated, or something like that. I hadrequested a copy, and never have recieved one to date. If anyone hastheseplans, please let me know. I will pay all costs encured for repro &shipping. Thanks Paul Yes, would you please send me plans, etc... Paul WhitelyPO Box 1981Tustin, CA 92781 just let me know the cost, and I will send a check. from jjohnso4@bellsouth.net Fri Aug 28 19:33:23 1998 UAA25916 Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert At 05:12 PM 8/28/98 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm about tomake the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record and Stanley9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (TheRecord goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able to try both of theseand been able to reach a conclusion as to which is better? size=2> Also,they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transforms either theRecord or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautifulLie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering thischeaper alternative. What do you think? Hi Richard, Be careful and be sure you read the catalog closely. I don't believe thescraper insert works for a block plane. It's made to work with a benchplane like a Stanley #4. It wasn't thought of very highly in the FineWoodworking review that I read. Said the blade wasn't very wellsupportedand that resulted in a lot of chatter. Course, that was using it onhardwood. Don't know how it'd do on bamboo. Later,Johnny ----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Aug 28 19:34:52 1998 (modemcable126.173.mmtl.videotron.net UAA26604 for Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Chris, Lee Valley prices the Stanley 9 1/2 at $57 cdn and the Lie Nielsen at $175cdn. Richard -----Original Message----- MCDOWELL Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard, I'm curious what the price is for the Stanley #9 1/2 in the Lee Valleycatalog. Garrett-Wade lists it at about $44 and $130 for the Lie Nielson#212. I ordered my Stanley through a local hardware store for $38. Whatis the Canadian price for these two planes? Thanks. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Aug 28 19:49:02 1998 (modemcable126.173.mmtl.videotron.net UAA29173 for Subject: RE: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Hi Johnny, They mention it works on all Stanley and Record planes 2 inches or wider. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert At 05:12 PM 8/28/98 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm about tomake the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record and Stanley9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (TheRecord goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able to try both of theseand been able to reach a conclusion as to which is better? size=2> Also,they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transforms either theRecord or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautifulLie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering thischeaper alternative. What do you think? Hi Richard, Be careful and be sure you read the catalog closely. I don't believe thescraper insert works for a block plane. It's made to work with a benchplane like a Stanley #4. It wasn't thought of very highly in the FineWoodworking review that I read. Said the blade wasn't very wellsupportedand that resulted in a lot of chatter. Course, that was using it onhardwood. Don't know how it'd do on bamboo. Later,Johnny ----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA from thorstad@primenet.com Fri Aug 28 19:55:22 1998 be "lizard"via SMTP by smtp01.primenet.com, id smtpd014523; Fri Aug 28 17:55:101998 Subject: Thanks for the replys on ovens and binders boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_0000002A.01BDD2AC" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000002A.01BDD2AC Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000002A.01BDD2AC Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_0000002A.01BDD2AC-- from richjez@enteract.com Fri Aug 28 19:56:15 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard,William Alden sells the Stanley for $28.99. Since you are on a budget, thatmaymake a difference. Their # is 1-800-249-8665. Web site at www.willianalden.com(disclaimer about financial interest) Rich Jezioro At 05:12 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm about tomakethe mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record and Stanley 91/2inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (The Recordgoes toreach a conclusion as to which is better? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transformseitherthe Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautifulLie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering thischeaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @ /||/______/_||_________________________________________|| /\ / \ > > > from ragnarig@integrityol.com Sat Aug 29 00:19:18 1998 (SMTPD32-4.04) id A1243BD0290; Fri, 28 Aug 1998 22:27:00 PDT Subject: Re: Reel plans Paul If you'll send me a yankee dollar (for copier and possible extra postage) ina SASE I'll be happy to send that along. Wouldn't even ask except I've had a surprising number of responses. All the best,Davy -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Reel plans -----Original Message-----From: David Date: Thursday, August 27, 1998 7:04 AMSubject: Re: Reel plans Paul I've got the 1951 Mechanix Illustrated plans and you're welcome to acopy,but they are for a metal reel, not wooden. I think Carsten Jorgensen (right, Carsten?) has made a wooden one. Maybehewould share some info? Davy -----Original Message-----From: Paul Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 5:31 PMSubject: Reel plans Some time ago, there was someone who had plans for a wooden reel. Theseplans were in a '50's Mechanix Ilustrated, or something like that. I hadrequested a copy, and never have recieved one to date. If anyone hastheseplans, please let me know. I will pay all costs encured for repro &shipping. Thanks Paul Yes, would you please send me plans, etc... Paul WhitelyPO Box 1981Tustin, CA 92781 just let me know the cost, and I will send a check. from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat Aug 29 01:19:41 1998 Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:19:24 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert On Fri, 28 Aug 1998, Jerry Quinn wrote: Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm aboutto make the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record andStanley 9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than theStanley. (The Record goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able totry both of these and been able to reach a conclusion as to which isbetter? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transformseither the Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totallybeautiful Lie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'mconsidering this cheaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca do you have a phone number where I can order a catalog? I haven't seen the attachment of which you mention but I have seen a wooden bodied plane made in such a way that the iron sits in the plane in the normal manner for planing but you can remove the iron, reverse the direction ie, bevel back to ward you as per the LN and insert it back into the plane body in a more or less vertical aspect.It worked very well in both modes. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat Aug 29 01:26:40 1998 Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:26:31 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert On Fri, 28 Aug 1998, Johnny Johnson wrote: At 05:12 PM 8/28/98 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm abouttomake the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record andStanley9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than the Stanley. (TheRecord goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able to try both of theseand been able to reach a conclusion as to which is better? size=2> Also,they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transforms either theRecord or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totally beautifulLie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'm considering thischeaper alternative. What do you think? Hi Richard, Be careful and be sure you read the catalog closely. I don't believe thescraper insert works for a block plane. It's made to work with a benchplane like a Stanley #4. It wasn't thought of very highly in the FineWoodworking review that I read. Said the blade wasn't very wellsupportedand that resulted in a lot of chatter. Course, that was using it onhardwood. Don't know how it'd do on bamboo. Later,Johnny Should have thought of this when I wrote my last post. If you look at the Hock home page (you can get there from my page) you'll see a wooden plane pattern which is very easy and quick to make. If you make the plane body so your block plane iron will fit about verticaly and use it bevel backwards you'll have a pretty decent scraper. I've made quite a few wooden bodied planes and scrapers for sparmaking and they work great. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from MICK@welfen-netz.com Sat Aug 29 04:54:08 1998 [195.143.56.1]with SMTP (MDaemon.v2.7.SP3.R) for ; Sat,29 Aug 199811:54:00 +0200 Subject: Re: Pre-treated cane Tony Young wrote: On Wed, 26 Aug 1998 SalarFly@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 8/26/98 9:47:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au writes: OK, call me slow but I must be missing something here.This cane is *pre heat treated* presumably some time ago. What ishappening to all the moisture re- entry? Is the usual thing here toheatagain at a somewhat lower temp after splitting?I hate to start another round of the effects of heat treating but thisdosn't seem right somehow. It is my belief that heat treating a culm isn't just moistureremoval. The reason I say this is I flame my culms, andas I reach the end of the culm I can see a lot of steamand liquid escaping from the end grain. As I continue toheat to the end of the culm, naturally the liquid gets heated under the flame - what might be called cross-linking if thiswas a polymer. There is no reason to believe this isn'thappening inside the bamboo also. Sure there is goingto be some moisture re-entry as the culm sits before use,but it will never return to it's pre heat treated softness. Darryl I'm of the same belief as heat treating the cane does seem to besomething of a one way street in that short of soaking the cane in waterthere dosn't *seem* to be much moisture re-entry.Just interested in what other listers opinion on pre heat treated culmsis. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ Hi list,Il'd say it takes a good piece of individuality off the rodbuildingprocess. It limits (imho) my influence or my own - not everytime thesame-personal note of the heat treatment. Sometimes I want a honey color ansometimes- for different rod type- the darker tan.But for those who might find it easyer.... way to go grace- or de gustibusnondisputandere-tight linesMichael from MICK@welfen-netz.com Sat Aug 29 04:54:13 1998 [195.143.56.1]with SMTP (MDaemon.v2.7.SP3.R) for ; Sat,29 Aug 199811:54:15 +0200 Subject: Re: varnish boundary="------------3506EBCCB2852CDA7B42F130" --------------3506EBCCB2852CDA7B42F130 Hi Brianjust to break into your thread you really cant seal a rod againstmoisture. You probaly get it sealed against water but moisturesconsistence -as far as I know- is a gas form. the best way to preserve asplit cane rod from moisturing is imho a hygrophobing process by heatreat- ment. I prefer to consider the varnish as a damage protection froman impact like a fly hitting the rod on a back cast by a sudden changeof wind or a fault caused by a tired caster.regardsMichael Brian Sturrock wrote: Thanks Chris for your answer re: the question on varnish. I justthought that varnishing the blank before adding the guides & ferruleswould protect the bamboo somewhat from wear especially from theguides.I was planning on going this route and then using a riggersbrush to varnish the wraps after.this I feel would seal the blank toany moisture . Or would tong oil inhibit any epoxyadhesion? Brian S. --------------3506EBCCB2852CDA7B42F130 Hi Brianjust to break into your thread you really cant seal a rod againstmoisture.You probaly get it sealed against water but moistures consistence -as faras I know- is a gas form. the best way to preserve a split cane rod frommoisturing is imho a hygrophobing process by heat reat- ment. I preferto consider the varnish as a damage protection from an impact like a flyhitting the rod on a back cast by a sudden change of wind or a fault caused regardsMichael Brian Sturrock wrote: Chris for your answer re: the question on varnish. I just thought thatvarnishing the blank before adding the guides & ferrules wouldprotectthe bamboo somewhat from wear especially from the guides.I wasplanningon going this route and then using a riggers brush to varnish the wrapsafter.this I feel would seal the blank to any moisture . Or would tong Brian S. --------------3506EBCCB2852CDA7B42F130-- from MICK@welfen-netz.com Sat Aug 29 04:54:14 1998 [195.143.56.1]with SMTP (MDaemon.v2.7.SP3.R) for ; Sat,29 Aug 199811:54:13 +0200 Subject: Re: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Hi Rick,thea are/were norvegian made and usual in the seventies in the north andcenter of Europe as I recall. Not an expensive rod like the Hardy's Palakonabut a good working horse.regardsMichaelRick Crenshaw wrote: Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the 'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick from gwbarnes@gwi.net Sat Aug 29 07:16:59 1998 Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Lee Valley also has a U.S. store and catalog. Richard Nantel wrote: Hi Jerry. Lee Valley Tools can be reached at 1-800-267-8767. All pricesarein Canadian dollars which are worth a petty 63 cents to the US$ rightnow soyou can get some great deals. I'm in no way affiliated. Just a satisfiedcustomer from years of ordering gardening supplies. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Friday, August 28, 1998 5:47 PM Subject: Re: Record vs Stanley, Scraping plane insert Richard Nantel wrote: My 298-page Lee Valley tool catalogue arrived yesterday and I'm aboutto make the mother of all tool orders. They sell both the Record andStanley 9 1/2 inch planes. The Record sells for $5 less than theStanley. (The Record goes for $52 cdn) Have any of you been able totry both of these and been able to reach a conclusion as to which isbetter? Also, they sell a scraping plane insert ($28.95 cdn) that transformseither the Record or Stanley planes into a scraping plane. The totallybeautiful Lie- Nielsen scraping plane is out of my budget so I'mconsidering this cheaper alternative. What do you think? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca do you have a phone number where I can order a catalog? from FlyTyr@southshore.com Sat Aug 29 07:37:26 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id HAA18711 for ;Sat, 29 Aug1998 07:38:23 - 0500 Subject: Need info HelloJust signed on the list. Sent message to " The Planing Form" and itbounced. Iused the address "lostrivr@im4u.net". Is this the correct address.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from briansr@point-net.com Sat Aug 29 09:28:58 1998 0000 Subject: swedish rod boundary="----=_NextPart_000_002C_01BDD335.624294E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BDD335.624294E0 Anyone know anything about a Co. Arjon from sweden .Rod looks at least = old .Engraved "Arjon" on reel-seat .Words a la Hardy style on blank =ST__ar FlyA or H___, 1 or # 29 - 9' ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BDD335.624294E0 Anyone know anything about a Co.= old .Engraved "Arjon"on = .Words a la Hardy style on blank ST__ar FlyA or H___, 1 or # 29 - =9' ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BDD335.624294E0-- from mrbamboo@quik.com Sat Aug 29 10:25:06 1998 Subject: Re: Reel plans -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Reel plans Paul If you'll send me a yankee dollar (for copier and possible extra postage)ina SASE I'll be happy to send that along. Wouldn't even ask except I've had a surprising number of responses. All the best,Davy Need Address from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Sat Aug 29 15:43:27 1998 0500 Subject: Re: Need info Tony,Welcome to the list. Wish I could help you with a valid e-mail addressforThe Planing Form, but Ron Barch (publisher) seems to prefer old fashionedcommunications. He was at one time an active participant on this list, butnolonger.Don't let that dissuade you. Here on this list you'll find many helpfulvoices, along with some fairly humurous individuals. from my days on theflytyinglist I remember how much help you were to those just beginning. On thislist youwill find many with a similar desire to help those of us who are lessexperienced. So, drop Ron a note, and post away on this list. Harry Boyd Tony Spezio wrote: HelloJust signed on the list. Sent message to " The Planing Form" and itbounced. Iused the address "lostrivr@im4u.net". Is this the correct address.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from johanyga@online.no Sat Aug 29 16:48:10 1998 (METDST) Subject: SV: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Rick,Having been away for a couple of days, teaching young pupils the noble artof fly fishing, I came home last night learning that you were interestedAsbjorn Horg๖rd fly rods.A. H. from Trondheim, Norway, built his first fly rod in 1934. They wereoffered to customers for the first time in 1936. Between 1936 and theearly1980's ca. 130000 rods were built, most of them fly rods. The Golden Flywas made in three different lengths, 8' 6'', 9'0'' and 9' 6''. All were3piece.The Golden Fly was moderately priced. The most expensive rodswerethe "Konkurranse" rods ( Competition ), they were hollow built, and were 8'6''--9' 3'' in length. Horg๖rd Salmon Rods were usually double built.Theywere long rods between 12' 6'' and 15' 6'' in length.A.H.'s catalog offered cane rods in 1984, in 1986 they were gone. ( I missthe 1985 )In the early 1990's, rumours said that Horg๖rd had burned all their bambooor sold it to Swedish rodbuilders. When I started rodbuilding in 1993, Ibought some brass ferrules from Horg๖rd, but asking for bamboo I got anegative answer. Therefore, I was very surprised this very autumn tolearnthat there had been an auction where bales of bamboo were sold at a verymoderate price. Horg๖rd Fly Rods have become collectors items in Scandinavia, at leastherein Norway.When prices began to rise, 10 years ago, I acquired 8 of theirrods.When I ordered the brass ferrules 5 years ago, I also asked for oldercatalogs, and I got one in English !! So if you are interested, Rick, Ican send you a copy of it. There are pictures of many rods, including TheGolden Fly. Johan Nygaardsvold7893 SkorovatnNorway johanyga@online.noFra: Rick Crenshaw Til: Rodmakers Listproc Emne: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the 'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick from stpete@netten.net Sat Aug 29 17:26:36 1998 cedar.netten.net (8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id RAA12134 for Subject: Re: SV: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Johan, I wanted to know because there is an online auction going on and one ofthe items is a virtually unfished Golden Fly. The price stands at$187.50 U.S. dollars right now and the auction ends at 2:58 p.m. PacificTime tomorrow 8/30. I don't know if I will even bid on it, but ifothers are interested I'd let you know where it was. Thanks for theinfo. Rick Johan Nygaardsvold wrote: Rick,Having been away for a couple of days, teaching young pupils the nobleartof fly fishing, I came home last night learning that you were interestedAsbjorn Horg๖rd fly rods.A. H. from Trondheim, Norway, built his first fly rod in 1934. They wereoffered to customers for the first time in 1936. Between 1936 and theearly1980's ca. 130000 rods were built, most of them fly rods. The Golden Flywas made in three different lengths, 8' 6'', 9'0'' and 9' 6''. All were3piece.The Golden Fly was moderately priced. The most expensive rodswerethe "Konkurranse" rods ( Competition ), they were hollow built, and were8'6''--9' 3'' in length. Horg๖rd Salmon Rods were usually double built.Theywere long rods between 12' 6'' and 15' 6'' in length.A.H.'s catalog offered cane rods in 1984, in 1986 they were gone. ( I missthe 1985 )In the early 1990's, rumours said that Horg๖rd had burned all theirbambooor sold it to Swedish rodbuilders. When I started rodbuilding in 1993, Ibought some brass ferrules from Horg๖rd, but asking for bamboo I got anegative answer. Therefore, I was very surprised this very autumn tolearnthat there had been an auction where bales of bamboo were sold at a verymoderate price.Horg๖rd Fly Rods have become collectors items in Scandinavia, at leastherein Norway.When prices began to rise, 10 years ago, I acquired 8 of theirrods.When I ordered the brass ferrules 5 years ago, I also asked for oldercatalogs, and I got one in English !! So if you are interested, Rick, Ican send you a copy of it. There are pictures of many rods, including TheGolden Fly. Johan Nygaardsvold7893 SkorovatnNorway johanyga@online.noFra: Rick Crenshaw Til: Rodmakers Listproc Emne: Asbjorn Horgard fly rod Anyone ever heard of Asbjorn Horgard fly rods? Specifically the'GoldenFly' model? I'm not familiar with them and I'd like to hear any infoyou guys might have regarding them. Thanks, Rick from chris@artistree.com Sat Aug 29 17:27:33 1998 PAA26284 Subject: Ammonia Treating Ralph,Were you using the Ammonium Hydroxide used for blueprint machines?Somewoodworkers turned me on to this and I think Wayne C. mentions it in hisbook. I've had really great luck with it. It's sold in blueprint/draftingsupply stores for around $10/gallon. Couple of hours in the sun and youhave an exact match for Granger rods (a dark carmel color). Couple of morehours and it really starts to darken up. Will work indoors as well, sayovernight, but I don't recommend it as the stuff is really strong and Iwould hate to walk into a cloud of it if something happened to your setup.Also, one should watch what type of plastic tubing and cointainer theyuse.The fumes will eat through some plastics. PVC tubing seems to work fine.One might even want to try experimenting with this on the wood reel seatfillers as well.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Ralph W Moon wrote: TomA long time ago, I tried to browntone some strips with ammonia. Ireally couldn't see any hope for the process and discontined it. I aminterested though in attaining a consistent brown color without burningthe hell out of the cane. Can you give me an idea of how your are usingthe ammonium carbonate? I thank you Ralph Moon from flyfisher@cmix.com Sat Aug 29 21:43:49 1998 Subject: RE:Silk Order More Details RO>Regarding the Java Beige #5115 3oz 6/0 silk order, I have receivedRO>orders for 32 spools. As most of you know I only have space forRO>about 23. So here are the options. Either I notify the first 23RO>people orders and say sorry to the rest of you all, or I canRO>encourage you all to order more than one spool and tell everyone youRO>know off the list about the order. If we could get a bit closer to aRO>60 spool order I would be very happy. Take care, and I will letRO>everyone know, either way by Wed. morning. I would like to have itRO>done for Roscoe. RO> Jon LintvetRO> 140 East Spencer StreetRO> Ithaca, NY 14850RO> (800) 836-7558RO> (607) 277- 4510RO> http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ Jon, I guess I can order two spools. Don Burns from gwbarnes@gwi.net Sun Aug 30 09:46:27 1998 Subject: Re: Need info Believe Ron's e-mail address is rbarch@remc8.k12.mi.us Tony Spezio wrote: HelloJust signed on the list. Sent message to " The Planing Form" and itbounced. Iused the address "lostrivr@im4u.net". Is this the correct address.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from WayneCatt@aol.com Sun Aug 30 12:01:00 1998 Subject: Re: Need info Tony -Welcome aboard the Rodmakers List - Hope to be down your way in amonth -staying at Dale & Rona Fulton's - be there from thursday night until sunday-I suspect that you will be busy with the FFF conclave - How's the tricofishing on the White these days - will be with Miles Tiernan and MikeBiondo -see you then Wayne from FlyTyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 30 12:22:33 1998 natco.southshore.com(8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id MAA06314 for ;Sun, 30 Aug1998 12:23:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Need info Wayne,Looking forward to getting together again. I took your advice and got myplaningform made, it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Actually it onlytookme five evenings to do the filing and it is right on the money .001 per 5".Theonly two files I used was a Flat Bastard and a triangle file. I made aholder forthe triangle file to keep it flat.Yes, the trout are taking tricos I have not figured out what yet, I had thempegged last year but they don't want the same thing this year.Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com WayneCatt@aol.com wrote: Tony -Welcome aboard the Rodmakers List - Hope to be down your way in amonth -staying at Dale & Rona Fulton's - be there from thursday night untilsunday -I suspect that you will be busy with the FFF conclave - How's the tricofishing on the White these days - will be with Miles Tiernan and MikeBiondo -see you then Wayne from FlyTyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 30 12:40:45 1998 natco.southshore.com(8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id MAA06554 for ;Sun, 30 Aug1998 12:41:53 -0500 Subject: Stanley 9 1/4 plane I picked up a Stanley 9 1/4 plane at a flea market a few weeks ago. Cananyone give me some info on it.Thanks in advance,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from stpete@netten.net Sun Aug 30 13:27:26 1998 cedar.netten.net (8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id NAA09430 for Subject: Re: Stanley 9 1/4 plane Tony, The 9-1/4 does not have an adjustable mouth. Take a look athttp://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htm There you will find info on most if not all Stanley planes. Hope to see you in Arkansas, Rick Crenshaw Tony Spezio wrote: I picked up a Stanley 9 1/4 plane at a flea market a few weeks ago. Cananyone give me some info on it.Thanks in advance,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from FlyTyr@southshore.com Sun Aug 30 14:09:25 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id OAA07968 for ;Sun, 30 Aug1998 14:10:33 - 0500 Subject: Re: Stanley 9 1/4 plane Thanks Rick,Look me up, I will be there on Thursday, will be tying at the ConclaveFridayand Saturday.I was told irons in these old planes hold up very well if sharpenedcorrectly, hope to get by for a while before getting some Hock irons.Tony Rick Crenshaw wrote: Tony, The 9-1/4 does not have an adjustable mouth. Take a look athttp://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htmThere you will find info on most if not all Stanley planes. Hope to see you in Arkansas, Rick Crenshaw Tony Spezio wrote: I picked up a Stanley 9 1/4 plane at a flea market a few weeks ago. Cananyone give me some info on it.Thanks in advance,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com from penr0295@eoni.com Sun Aug 30 17:06:30 1998 adam.eoni.com(8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id PAA28930 for ;Sun, 30 Aug1998 15:06:24 -0700 Subject: Wallowa River boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD4F0.E22ECF40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD4F0.E22ECF40 Just got back from fishing the Wallowa (here in Eastern Oregon) with =Robert Clarke. So far, Robert and Andy Royer are the only two listers I =have met in person. Robert is certainly a great guy to fish with, and =much fun was had by all. Robert brought along the first completed rod =section he has made, and it looks like he is off to a good start. Hope = Tom Penrose ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD4F0.E22ECF40 Just got back from fishing the = completed rod section he has made, and it looks like he is off to a good = Tom =Penrose ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDD4F0.E22ECF40-- from channer@hubwest.com Sun Aug 30 18:15:26 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AD708FB013E; Sun, 30 Aug 1998 17:17:04 MDT Subject: Re: Stanley 9 1/4 plane At 02:12 PM 8/30/98 -0500, you wrote:Thanks Rick,Look me up, I will be there on Thursday, will be tying at the ConclaveFridayand Saturday.I was told irons in these old planes hold up very well if sharpenedcorrectly, hope to get by for a while before getting some Hock irons.Tony Rick Crenshaw wrote: Tony, The 9-1/4 does not have an adjustable mouth. Take a look athttp://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0.htmThere you will find info on most if not all Stanley planes. Hope to see you in Arkansas, Rick Crenshaw Tony Spezio wrote: I picked up a Stanley 9 1/4 plane at a flea market a few weeks ago.Cananyone give me some info on it.Thanks in advance,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Tony(and anyone else that may be interested);A month or so ago I felt the desire to have a new plane for rough in workand being into instant gratification, I bought a G12-020, Stanley'sstandard block plane. It is a little bigger, a little heavier and doesn'thave an adjustable throat, same blade angle as the 9 1/2. After sharpeningthe blade that came with it to 35d, I used it to rough in all 18 strips fora rod without re-sharpening, just to see how it would hold up. It was justfine, I started a new rod today and re- sharpened the blade, but morebecause that's what I do than because the blade really needed it. I thinkwe are selling the Stanley blades a little short. Those of you out therethat are just starting and are short on cash, don't think you have to waitto get a Hock blade to start planing. Properly sharpened, the Stanleyblades will work O.K.Get the Hock when you can afford it, it is definitelybetter, but the Stanley will get you going.Now I save my Hock blades forfinishing and use the Stanley to rough. Maybe those expensive Hoch bladeswill last longer. The three things that have most noticeably improved myplaning are flaming the bamboo, grooving the sole of my 9 1/2 andsharpening a secondary bevel to 35d.I hardly ever have a node chip out anymore and the blades seem to last forever. Instead of going thru the wholesharpening procedure, I just have to touch up on the 6000 grit stone foreach section. John from channer@hubwest.com Mon Aug 31 06:17:01 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A690C72013C; Mon, 31 Aug 1998 05:18:40 MDT Subject: Re: Test At 03:55 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Test. Test. me, too. from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Mon Aug 31 08:27:07 1998 mail.clarityconnect.com with SMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2b4);Mon, 31Aug 1998 09:35:14 -0400 Subject: test testJon Lintvet140 East Spencer StreetIthaca, NY 14850(800) 836- 7558(607) 277-4510 http://www.clarityconnect.com/webpages4/jlintvet/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Mon Aug 31 09:45:48 1998 Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:45:40 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Test On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, john channer wrote: At 03:55 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Test. Test. me, too.hey, this looks like fun. /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 31 11:08:52 1998 Subject: Re: Test Only if you pass!(signed)The Teach At 10:45 PM 8/31/98 +0800, you wrote:On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, john channer wrote: At 03:55 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Test. Test. me, too.hey, this looks like fun. /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from rclarke@eou.edu Mon Aug 31 15:06:51 1998 Subject: Re: Wallowa River Thanks Thomas. I did get a chance to cast one of the rods Tom made (the one on the coverof Bamboo Fly Rod #2). It is based on a Tom Smithwick taper and is a verynice rod. Hope my first one turns out half as well. BTW, we caught somenice fish. I will have pics available in a week or two and would post tothose interested. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu ---------- Subject: Wallowa River Just got back from fishing the Wallowa (here in Eastern Oregon) withRobertClarke. So far, Robert and Andy Royer are the only two listers I have metin person. Robert is certainly a great guy to fish with, and much fun washad by all. Robert brought along the first completed rod section he hasmade, and it looks like he is off to a good start. Hope to meet more ofyou some day. Tom Penrose from bobbo@buffnet.net Mon Aug 31 15:10:57 1998 bybuffnet4.buffnet.net (8.8.7/8.7.3) with SMTP id QAA24653 for via smap(V2.0) Subject: practice Has anyone ever practiced splitting, planing, etc.. using the bamboo fromone of those patio lamps? Is it worth the effort. THANKS,Bob from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon Aug 31 15:38:27 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Wallowa River Rob and Tom, I was able to fish the Wallowa river below the lake a several weeks back. Much of the land is private through this area. We fished below Cheif Joseph's monument and caught many small natives and one nicer one. Ihope to be able to fish the lower river someday. I also understand the Imnaha is good for Steelhead in the Fall per the Joseph Fly Shop. Perhaps someday we can have an Oregon gathering of rodmakers somewhere in theBend area. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from channer@hubwest.com Mon Aug 31 19:08:18 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AB55BDA010A; Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:09:57 MDT Subject: Re: Test At 10:45 PM 8/31/98 +0800, you wrote:On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, john channer wrote: At 03:55 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Test. Test. me, too.hey, this looks like fun. /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ Sorry Tony, fun is a bunch of messages to read, I only have 4 so far todayand 3 of them are re:testJohn from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 31 19:20:16 1998 Subject: Re: Test John,I don't think you missed any. It was REAL slow today. And yes, today I AMliving on the keyboard. I sprained my ankle last evening and can hardly getanywhere. A poifick day for a dead listserver!!!Take care and don't worry about the tests,Art At 05:56 PM 8/31/98, you wrote:At 10:45 PM 8/31/98 +0800, you wrote:On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, john channer wrote: At 03:55 PM 8/28/98 -0400, you wrote:Test. Test. me, too.hey, this looks like fun. /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ Sorry Tony, fun is a bunch of messages to read, I only have 4 so far todayand 3 of them are re:testJohn from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Aug 31 19:36:20 1998 (modemcable126.173.mmtl.videotron.net UAA08534 for Subject: Quiet day on the listserv boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0 A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have amillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's somethingtohelp break the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right ontheblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the gripseparately (or in fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet),enlarging the hole with a round file and then glueing and sliding the griponto the blank? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0 quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have a = questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's something to = the silence: Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right on the = Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the grip separately = fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet), enlarging the hole = thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0-- from rclarke@eou.edu Mon Aug 31 19:55:14 1998 Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listserv from "RichardNantel" at Aug 31, 98 08:21:05 pm Richard, a lot of folks do either purchase their grips, or make them off of the rod, then ream and glue to it. I am trying to develop a way to use the drill press I have to turn handle on. There was some discussion on the list a few weeks ago about that, and I have not had any time to work on it from my end. There are several places to get premade handles and I have bought from both REC and Anglers workshop and think both are just fine. Let us know how it goes if you start turning your own. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0Content-Type: text/plain; Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have amillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here'ssomething tohelp break the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right ontheblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the gripseparately (or in fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet),enlarging the hole with a round file and then glueing and sliding the griponto the blank? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0Content-Type: text/html; Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have a = questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's something to = the silence: Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right on the = Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the grip separately = fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet), enlarging the hole = thanks size=3D2>Richard size=3D2> ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0-- from ljrp@penn.com Mon Aug 31 20:02:00 1998 Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listserv I have found the best method if you don't have a lathe, is an electricdrill with a long bolt as the mandrel or on a radial arm saw with achuck and the bolt. works great for me. Richard Nantel wrote: Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)Encoding: 7bit from anglport@con2.com Mon Aug 31 20:04:03 1998 Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listserv Richard,You picked a favorite of mine . I always did it that way (on therod) until one day I thought "Let's give the other way a try". I did. Once.I don't know about your patience, but I found it maddening to file thatamount out of the center and keeping it TAPERED the whole while. I wounduphaving to plug the front end with cork dust when I made the bore acylinderinstead of a cone. I bought another premade handle and began the process asecond time for a later blank and found myself doing the same "sawing"motion (sort of a sweeping-arc-shape to the thrusts of the rattail file)anddecided it wasn't worth the concentration! Now that I'm discussing theprocess, I suppose you might individually bore the corks to slide on theblank, remove them, put them CAREFULLY on a mandrel, and glue them upthatway. They may tend to slide off each other though, if they have differingsized holes and a linear mandrel. I've always suggested to others that theyavoid the off-the-blank method.Naturally, if I were slower and more careful, i could avoid theproblem. The trouble is that if you go carefully enough to do it right, itseems to take about as long as planing a tip!Just my $.02.Art Funny, I'm not too opinionated about many things, but that one really gotmyattention! Good luck, no matter how you go. If you don't have a good way toturn the blank and you have a variable speed drill, I can suggest aquick-and-dirty lathe setup that I used to use. At 08:21 PM 8/31/98 -0400, you wrote: A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have amillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here'ssomething tohelp break the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right ontheblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the gripseparately (or in fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet),enlarging the hole with a round file and then glueing and sliding the griponto the blank? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have amillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's something tohelpbreak the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right on theblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the grip separately (orin fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet), enlarging the holewith a round file and then glueing and sliding the grip onto the blank? Many thanks size=2>Richard from thorstad@primenet.com Mon Aug 31 21:06:48 1998 be "lizard"via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpd025090; Mon Aug 31 18:43:001998 Subject: Stanley Plane from William Alden boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_00000034.01BDD50E" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000034.01BDD50E I ordered a 9 1/2 from William Alden ( http://www.williamalden.com ) =today without the benefit of a catalog. The person I talked to didn't = Well, let me just say that if you want to order one the item number is =#629196. The phone number is 1-800-249-9665 (different from earlier posting),and = Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000034.01BDD50E I ordered a 9 1/2 from William Alden (=http://www.williamalden.com ) = about planes and . . . Well, let me just say that if you want= the item number is #629196. The phone number is 1-800-249-9665= earlier posting), and cost with shipping from Mass. to Arizona was = Tim ------=_NextPart_000_0000_00000034.01BDD50E-- from mcreek@sirus.com Mon Aug 31 21:27:13 1998 0400 Subject: 20/20 club on my first bamboo rod Just got back this last Saturday from 10 days out in the ColoradoSprings area. Fished the South Platte from way up on the Tomahawk SWA(above the dams) to below Deckers and Trumbull. Had the best luck inSpinney Mountain Ranch section, 11 Mile Canyon and Cheesman Canyon.Caught gobs of fish and around a dozen that went 20" or better (best wasabout 22"). Most fish were caught on 6x mono tippet.I used a bamboo rod I made last winter (the first rod I ever built),a PHY Para 14 taper. I can cast nearly the entire line, and broke-offmore fish at the knots than just breaking tippets. The butt section andboth tips now have some serious sets in them (compound in one tip) thatI need to iron out some evening.If you're just starting rod building, believe it when the old-timerstell you that you can build a better rod than you can buy if you keepworking at it a few hours at a time. And you'll have more fun fishingthan you ever thought possible! Brian from WayneCatt@aol.com Mon Aug 31 21:52:58 1998 Subject: Hexrod 98 Locations Hexrod 98 is spread over the following locations members.aol.com/hexrod/dsk1.zip (disk1 of program)members.aol.com/planecane1/dsk2.zip (disk 2 of program)members.aol.com/rodmaker01/dsk3.zip (disk 3 of program)members.aol.com/rodmaker01/dsk4.zip (taper files) from russettrods@hotmail.com Mon Aug 31 22:35:52 1998 Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:35:19 PDT Subject: anyone in my neck of the woods Was just wondering if any of the people are in my area. My local rivers are the Dearfield and Hoosac in Massachusetts. Great rivers for Bamboo. Let me know maybe we can get together and fish Larry Russett39 East Rd RR-1Adams, MA 01220413 743 5034rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu ______________________________________________________Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com from briansr@point-net.com Mon Aug 31 22:54:43 1998 0000 Subject: re:quiet day on the list boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD53A.7B0CD560" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD53A.7B0CD560 Hi Richard I know for a fact you ain't going to find a decent cheap =lathe in Mtl. I've been hunting one down the past 3 years, so I'll echo =Dick Fogel's advice & try a drill Don't buy a premade, unless you want =some "working" of the cork after a few years fishin.No matter how =carefull you ream out a premade it will never equal what you can do by =individually fitting each cork ring.As for the Record vs. Stanley question .Stanley are good tools if you =find an oldy If it's in bad shape, refurbish the foot and you'll have a =much better tool than a new one.Some new Stanley castings don't seem to=have been aged properly and are warped, even slightly .The new Records =are much better made Funny , all the Atlantic Salmon lists were quiet too . Are we ALL F1 =fans as well? ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD53A.7B0CD560 = going to find a decent cheap lathe in Mtl. I've been hunting one down = premade, unless you want some "working" of the cork after a = fishin.No matter how carefull you ream out a premade it will never equal = = question .Stanley are good tools if you find an oldy If it's in bad = refurbish the foot and you'll have a much better tool than a new = even slightly .The new Records are much better made lists were quiet too . Are we ALL F1 fans as =well? ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD53A.7B0CD560-- from timklein@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 31 22:58:56 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listserv Richard, I found a drill press attachment called a "verti-lathe" through theWoodworkers Store (I know they have a web site, but I don't have it handy). I've used it for a couple of grips I made for plastic rods, and it seems towork pretty well. The nicest feature is a solid rod that attaches parallelto the work piece that acts as a tool rest. For some reason, I always havea hard time keeping my sanding board straight when working in theperpendicular fashion that a drill press requires. Tim ----------From: Robert Clarke Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listservDate: Monday, August 31, 1998 6:56 PM Richard, a lot of folks do either purchase their grips, or make them off of the rod, then ream and glue to it. I am trying to develop a way to use the drill press I have to turn handle on. There was some discussion on the list a few weeks ago about that, and I have not had any time to work on it from my end. There are several places to get premade handles and I have bought from both REC and Anglers workshop and think both are just fine. Let us know how it goes if you start turning your own. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0Content-Type: text/plain; Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I haveamillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here'ssomething tohelp break the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right ontheblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the gripseparately (or in fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet),enlarging the hole with a round file and then glueing and sliding thegriponto the blank? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0Content-Type: text/html; Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have a= questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's something to = the silence: Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right on the= Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the grip separately= fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet), enlarging thehole = thanks size=3D2>Richard size=3D2> > ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BDD51C.E45C59A0-- from flyfisher@cmix.com Mon Aug 31 23:05:56 1998 Subject: RE:anyone in my neck of the woods RO>Was just wondering if any of the people are in my area. My localRO>rivers are the Dearfield and Hoosac in Massachusetts. Great rivers forRO>Bamboo. Let me know maybe we can get together and fish RO>Larry RussettRO>39 East Rd RR-1RO>Adams, MA 01220RO>413 743 5034RO>rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Larry, I've got a friend in NYC that's a bamboo rod collector - loves to fishthe Housatonic. Due to ISP's email system I can't read email addresses from a list- serv post, so email me off list for his email address. Don BurnsFlyfisher@cmix.com from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Aug 31 23:20:32 1998 Subject: Re: Quiet day on the listserv Richard, you can get ready-made cook grips from L. G. Custom Tackle inMount Hope, Ont. They cost less than the equivalent number of 1/2'' corksand can be fitted with a rat-tail file to fit your rod blank. ---------- Subject: Quiet day on the listserv A quiet day on the listserv? Heck I can do something about that. I have amillion questions but always fear using up bandwidth. So here's somethingtohelp break the silence: Both Howell and Cattanach's book suggest shaping the cork grip right ontheblank. Couldn't I avoid any danger to the blank by making the gripseparately (or in fact buying it if I haven't found a cheap lathe yet),enlarging the hole with a round file and then glueing and sliding the griponto the blank? Many thanks Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca from channer@hubwest.com Mon Aug 31 23:42:59 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id ABB692A0102; Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:44:38 MDT Subject: Re: Test At 08:36 PM 8/31/98 -0400, you wrote:John,I don't think you missed any. It was REAL slow today. And yes, today I AMliving on the keyboard. I sprained my ankle last evening and can hardly getanywhere. A poifick day for a dead listserver!!!Take care and don't worry about the tests,Art Art;Sorry to hear about the ankle, I hope you at least did it while outfishing, instead of tripping over the dog or going down the stairs. I hearcold water(such as that found in productive trout streams) is very goodfortaking down the swelling.Take careJohn