Subject: Re: Re: St. Wayne A.J.,Your advice has always been to the point.I consider the loss of Wayne,SirD ,Reed , and, yes, Terry A. to leave a large hole in this listSadly,Hank from FISHWOOL@aol.com Fri Oct 9 09:30:38 1998 Subject: Re: Blackening Guide Feet Chris,I tried this a while back and the black did run-unfortunately I don'tremember the make of permanent marker I used.Hank. from mweber@icscorp.com Fri Oct 9 09:35:50 1998 mgmt-server1.icscorp.com(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:29:25 -0400 10:38:39 -0400 Subject: RE: Sanding Blanks =_NextPart_000_01BDF370.F9F1C4E0" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF370.F9F1C4E0 It may not be a conventional, or an historically acceptable method, but =I plane down the enamel side of my strips flat just before final =dimensions are reached. This creates a very interesting look to the =cane, and after a couple dozen rods, have seen no detrimental effects to =performance or function. And no fractures or failures. Removing the =enamel and .001 of the outside power fibers does not adversely effect =the overall strength of my rods, IHMO, and allows for a very clean, =sharp edge finish. Remember, there are no rules, only guidelines and history. Have fun. Mike -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Sanding Blanks I think I recall the late Sir D mentioning that he even planed the face =ofrods ... Iank At 02:02 AM 9/10/98 GMT, you wrote:A while back we discussed the pro's and con's of sanding old blanks to = clean them up or alter the taper some. ... some of you with more historical knowledge know to be true, or was it = flippant statement made without any real basis since the book is a = general overview of the entire realm of fishing, and not specific to = rod making. Chris, I've been told that the old timers did, indeed, sand to tune. =I'd love So far most of my rods have come out very fast, but not very pleasant =to cast. I got some good hints at the SRG. Onward. Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374 New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF370.F9F1C4E0 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------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF370.F9F1C4E0-- from mevans@acxiom.com Fri Oct 9 09:54:14 1998 Exchange ServerInternet Mail Connector Version 4.0.996.62) Oct 199809:57:53 -0500 Subject: RE: SRG 4.0.996.62 Harry, Wayne, and all presenters deserve a great thanks for the SRG. It was a very selfless effort which happened at no small expense from some who put it together (particularly Harry) - and to came off very well. As a wannabe, I was very pleased to be warmly greeted by a group of highly congenial and highly skilled craftsmen. Everyone present seemed to remember their 'day' at the beginning of this craft and were very generous and open with their time and knowledge. This all may have been said Monday (my mail was suspended) - but these men deserve our thanks and support for a job well done. I'm looking forward to this as an annual event. Mark Evans---------- Subject: SRG Thanks Preacher Harry.You threw one heck of a party. I hope I can make it again. It was greatfun. I'm bad at names so just let me say that EVERYONE I met were great.Pilots, preachers, Gunsmiths, bamboo importers and all the rest. from Tenn,La., Ark., Ill., and Mo. (Wasn't someone there from TEXAS? Can't forget them!)I'm sure I left someone out. What a great bunch of guys, you got togetherHarry. Of course, the boys from the frozen north had a little troublenavigating when the compass finally thawed out.And I picked up a14 Trout, late Sunday evening, just at the end of ageneration cycle, on the North Fork. On Bamboo. Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from sjstill@iquest.net Fri Oct 9 09:56:45 1998 0000 (209.43.55.197) Subject: 60* router bits I got one from Woodcraft supply last week. Seems decent. About 22.00 orso. Usual disclaimers apply. I believe Woodcraft has a website too www.woodcraft.com That you can order online from. Again, standard disclaimer applies! Steve Steve and Julie Stillabower, Indianapolis, INsjstill@iquest.net from sjstill@iquest.net Fri Oct 9 10:02:04 1998 0000 (209.43.55.197) Subject: 60* bit - addendum It was a Whiteside 60* vee-groove bit from Woodcraft. Steve Steve and Julie Stillabower, Indianapolis, INsjstill@iquest.net from AAARPTRADEUSA@webtv.net Fri Oct 9 10:21:29 1998 101.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.gso.08Dec97) with 101.iap.bryant.webtv.net(8.8.8/mt.gso.26Feb98) id IAA19943; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 08:21:27 -0700 ETAsAhRIPi9r/fluJ8W4cMkI7QVvqTCdlAIUfAVyoCAaw3OZU5WoudnrHnUcg3I= Subject: Re: Old broken antique flyrods and other old hex wood deepsea &steelrods Thanks Ian and members,I've spent some time in New Zealand, never had time to fish though. Idid fish off Bora Bora however. I have several hundred old antque rodsand reels. As a kid (13), I'm now 56. I was the junior crew member ona deep sea sport fishing boat in Boynton Beach, Florida. I tiedhundreds of baits for the tourist charters and for other skippers in the50's. I'd wash the blood from the cockpit, clean up the equipment andput it away, wash off the boat, put up with the drunks, customer'sbarfing on each other, fights, trying to earn some fish mountingcommissions, etc. I tied pins, ballyhoo, mullet, bonito striped custom baits with my owncustoms, a few white split seagull feathers and a thin long piece ofyellow yarn and a thin red shiny cloth (18") from my mom's sewing stuff.I'd attach it to the leader and it was ugly but a killer. I made lures from pennies I'd have a train run over. Drill two holes, polish them upbright and tie two hooks end for end with thin strips of waxed papermilk carton I'd color yellow ... another cheap killer lure for mahi andkings. (both surface skippers on the outriggers or with the deepweighted baits.) Three minutes off the south jetty and we'd get sailfish strikes andhookups. I have many five gallon pails full of old salt and fresh waterfishing lures (many still in boxes) and old classic cane (hex) rods withover and under jeweled (ruby) eyes in stainless mounts. I also havemany old steel fishing rods that are fun to look at. I even have afishing pole with two separate reels and rigs. I guess you cast one wayout and then fish the other line from the side of your boat. It's crazybut kinda neat. Somebody's great idea many years ago. ha! All mystuff is so disorganized and a mess. My old personal rod repair equipment is made from felt covered wood andbearings and pulleys ...nothing, high tech..... just clamps andwingnuts, etc. I repaired broken wood rod tips, (I used hardwood minidowels and 2 part weldwood glues. They never broke in the same placeand would still flex OK. I did guides, butts, etc., for myself andfriends for free, but never making new rods. I just thought aboutgetting into this again as a hobby. I have too many hobbies now .......so what's one more, right? I've been able to shoot a very small shotweight into a tire pretty good with a flyrod I have. I try to use the10:00 and 2:00 movement but I end up using 10, 2, 10 ,2 and then finishwith a big 3, 8 to throw the weight far. I read where this pro canthrow a weight very far with control just using his arm as the flyrod.I hit my mark OK but I like to end up with a bigger final arc. I'm justa beginner. I've had a home in St Thomas, USVI now for 26 years and some guys wouldfish for marlin with flyrods off the north shore out of Red Hook. Idon't know how they did with their rig busting fish. I'm surprisedsomeone hasn't gone after a 900 lb tuna off the tip of Long Island witha flyrod. Maybe they have by now!? That's about it or now. Nicetalking with you guys. Thanks, John from michael@wugate.wustl.edu Fri Oct 9 10:29:51 1998 Subject: 60 degree router bits Ralph sayeth...Sears used to sell a 60 degree router bit. I bought a couple a longtime ago, but I don't know if they are currently available I got one at the local Woodcraft. 60 degree router bits is one of those things you rarely use, so...if anyoneis near the country's navel, aka St. Louis, and needs one, you're welcometo come by and borrow mine. Mike - wishing it was 60 degrees...burrrr, sure was chilly this morning - BiondoSt. Louis, MO from rdonnely@webtv.net Fri Oct 9 11:04:45 1998 111.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.gso.08Dec97) with 111.iap.bryant.webtv.net(8.8.8/mt.gso.26Feb98) id JAA24688; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:04:43 -0700 ETAtAhQYlExS9367yPpymhQ8yWwRKDEQSQIVAJo/DDbH7jhjP+OrRYMWPr34wXBJ Subject: Grooving Plane Wish to purchase a new Record plane. My thought was to mill a groove inthe sole using my vertical mill. Is that practical. If so what depthand width of groove. Ray from jcole10@juno.com Fri Oct 9 12:14:52 1998 13:14:46 EDT Subject: Re: Wooden planing forms -Reply On Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:16:53 -0400 RON WILHELMwrites:John; It would be a great help if you could provide a source for your 60 degreerouter bit. I have had some trouble in locating one. Any info would beappreciated. Thanks Ron Wilhelm 60 degree router bits can be found at Eagle America 1-800-872-2511John Cole from FISHWOOL@aol.com Fri Oct 9 12:44:24 1998 Subject: Re: RE: Sanding Blanks I, too, have planed and/or sanded the enamel side with no discernableadverseaffects on the rods. Rgards,Hank. from chris@artistree.com Fri Oct 9 13:05:16 1998 LAA26758 Subject: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Hmmmm....O.K....since we are sharing our dirty little secrets I gotanother one for you. While practicing Max's method of straightening tipsections with an iron I accidentally discovered how to do a "controlledburn."It then occurred to me (after a few swear words) that by using the iron onit's highest setting you are able to simulate a flaming pattern to theindividual strips of a section. Works real nice for restoration work. I'lltell ya, these "irons" make even me look like I know what I'm doing!!! :-)--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Mike Biondo wrote: Actually, since my main wrap color was a dark green, I also took a greensharpie to the guide feet to mask my sometime (oftentimes!) less thangreatwrap job. I'll tell ya, these Sharpies make even me look like I know whatI'm doing!!! :-) Mike - pass the Sharpie - BiondoSt. Louis, MO from LambersonW@missouri.edu Fri Oct 9 13:22:26 1998 (5.5.2232.9) Subject: pressing nodes It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has any triedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MO from dhaftel@att.com Fri Oct 9 13:28:04 1998 sender att.com!dhaftel (att.com!dhaftel); Fri Oct 9 13:28 CDT 1998 8.6/EMS-1.2sol2) (5.5.2232.9) Subject: RE: pressing nodes Sounds like a good idea... Set for linen and press hard! I'm going to try that one! Thanks... Dennis Haftel -----Original Message-----From: Lamberson, William R. [SMTP:LambersonW@missouri.edu]Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 2:22 PM Subject: pressing nodes It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has any triedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MO from chris@artistree.com Fri Oct 9 13:28:30 1998 Subject: Re: Old broken antique flyrods and other old hex wood deepsea &steelrods Steven,Although I don't consider myself a restoration expert I would personallyuse the URAC 185 glue instead of the epoxy to glue up the strips. Epoxywasn't used then and URAC might not have been either (could be hide oranimal glue) but I have had very good luck using URAC to bring back olddelaminated rods.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com p.s.- I should point out a con of URAC (although I consider it a pro) andthat is if you do choose to use URAC you must learn to work quickly andcalmly as it sets up fast. By keeping the glue refrigerated before mixingparts together and by keeping it on ice after mixing it together you cangain extra working time. Dr. Steven A. Weiss wrote: How does one begin to secure the strips, align them, select the glue,properly bind the glued rod for the proper and fishable repair anybreaks in individual strips, etc.? Do you align and glue (epoxy) andthen refinish? from CALucker@aol.com Fri Oct 9 13:38:18 1998 Subject: Re: Granger Reelseat I have a spare Goodwin Granger NS slide band seat. The band has a slighttear, perhaps 1/16th of an inch on the reel foot side. That's why the seatisa spare. Please contact me if you need. I have no internal uplocking Granger stuff,nor do I have W/M Granger. Chris Lucker from Canerods@aol.com Fri Oct 9 14:13:24 1998 Subject: Terminal ISP problems All, I guess my Flyfisher@cmix.com address has gone south for ever - anymessages The ISP guy won't return my calls. IT all started when my bank got boughtoutand the C.C. account # changed so the monthly automatic ISP billingstoppedworking. I updated the account info online in the ISP databank, but I got a post thatthe billing was going to the old C.C. #. Efforts to fix this billing errorseem in vain - the SYSOP is never there and I won't leave my C.C. # on ananswering machine. %$#$%$$%^% Please repost any posts to me @ -----> Canerods@aol.com Sorry for the wasted bandwidth, Don Burns PS - I will try to get a post out to anyone in my old Flyfisher@cmix.comaddress book, but meanwhile I'm looking for a new (and completelystafted)ISP. from FlyTyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 9 14:52:59 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id OAA04558 for ;Fri, 9 Oct1998 14:54:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Planing form material Rich,Would it be too much trouble to send them to me,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rich Jezioro wrote: I have some digitized photos of Al's binder taken at Grayling. Contact meoffthe list if you want them. Rich Jezioro At 03:45 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:Mark, Someone told me Al Port may have a PIC or two. If so maybe Al couldsendthemor post them for all to see. ThanksBob VRobert Venneri'sCustom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@ /||/______/_||_________________________________________||/\/ \ > > / \ > from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Fri Oct 9 14:56:46 1998 ; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 07:56:46 +1200 Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Chris , I understood there are certain tools which are not designed to be used bymales . These include washing machines , dish washers, mops, irons , andmost models of vacunm cleaners . It is my understanding that if these areused by males then disaster is sure to result and it is just not worth therisk. There is a model of vacumn cleaner which can be used in the workshop butitis not the same model as the house model . When I used the house model inthe work shop I had this pointed out to me in rather strong terms beSWMBOas the house model tends to be blocked by bamboo shavings , screws, etc ,and it also eats any special "bits" you have put aside for future use. However it seems that I may now have to look for a male model iron forusein the workshop . I would not dear to use the house model after hearing ofyour experience . Iank At 11:13 AM 9/10/98 -0800, you wrote:Hmmmm....O.K....since we are sharing our dirty little secrets I gotanother one for you. While practicing Max's method of straightening tipsections with an iron I accidentally discovered how to do a "controlledburn."It then occurred to me (after a few swear words) that by using the irononit's highest setting you are able to simulate a flaming pattern to theindividual strips of a section. Works real nice for restoration work. I'lltell ya, these "irons" make even me look like I know what I'm doing!!! :-)--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Mike Biondo wrote: Actually, since my main wrap color was a dark green, I also took agreensharpie to the guide feet to mask my sometime (oftentimes!) less thangreatwrap job. I'll tell ya, these Sharpies make even me look like I knowwhatI'm doing!!! :-) Mike - pass the Sharpie - BiondoSt. Louis, MO Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from AAARPTRADEUSA@webtv.net Fri Oct 9 15:01:04 1998 102.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.gso.08Dec97) with 102.iap.bryant.webtv.net(8.8.8/mt.gso.26Feb98) id NAA13031; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:01:02 -0700 ETAtAhQjWVxcKvxzRwwUd8qiz14QkJ8/igIVAMDjM5Hd5aN5s1R9sVS+aoSTunt/ Subject: Value of antique rods, reels, lures, etc. Hello rodmakers,Is there a website that would give the names of antique flyrods andpoles to check their value? My dad's old flyrods "might" be rare and Idon't know it. They might be junk too. Some he bought with his bestbuddy, Doc Wood from Europe. Are there any special places the famousflyrod makers left their "marks" etc.? Some had old masonic emblems. I don't know the value of old rods, reels and antique wooden lures. Ihave more than 500 of them. Last year I went to take violin lessons onmy dad's antique violin just to learn. I had played 3 seasons in thesymphony with him on trumpet. Anyway, the shop's owner said he wouldgive me $2,000 cash for it as is. I thought it was worth maybe $400based on what my mom had told me, but I told him "No".. Anyway, the violin was a rare Austrian and French design made by afamous violin maker. I spent $500 just to have it preserved and reglued violin and equally rare bow was valued up to $122,000 as is in theoriginal wood case. I learned my lesson and was very lucky I didn'tdump it for $400!! You might have a rare flyrod and don't even know it. A TV program said people in the hills of Tennessee and northernMississippi may well be drinking from coffee cups from this onemanufacturer that are worth over $200 each that look like old cupspurchased from a 5 & 10 cent store in the 40's. I love old fishingpoles but don't know much about "properly" restoring them and I'm tryingto learn more. Thanks, John from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Oct 9 15:02:03 1998 (modemcable70.173.mmtl.videotron.net) sims.3.5.1998.07.14.10.43)with SMTP id for Subject: RE: Planing form material I'd like to see them too. I don't have your e-mail to contact you off thelist, Rich. Thanks Richardrchard.nantel@videotron.ca -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Planing form material Rich,Would it be too much trouble to send them to me,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rich Jezioro wrote: I have some digitized photos of Al's binder taken at Grayling. Contact meoffthe list if you want them. Rich Jezioro At 03:45 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:Mark, Someone told me Al Port may have a PIC or two. If so maybe Al couldsendthemor post them for all to see. ThanksBob VRobert Venneri'sCustom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@ /||/______/_||_________________________________________||/\/ \ > > / \ > from FlyTyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 9 15:12:00 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id PAA04914 for ;Fri, 9 Oct1998 15:13:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Planing form material Sorry,This was ment to be off list.Tony Tony Spezio wrote: Rich,Would it be too much trouble to send them to me,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rich Jezioro wrote: I have some digitized photos of Al's binder taken at Grayling. Contactme offthe list if you want them. Rich Jezioro At 03:45 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:Mark, Someone told me Al Port may have a PIC or two. If so maybe Al couldsendthemor post them for all to see. ThanksBob VRobert Venneri'sCustom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@ /||/______/_||_________________________________________||/\/ \ > > > / \ > from dhaftel@att.com Fri Oct 9 15:29:36 1998 sender att.com!dhaftel (att.com!dhaftel); Fri Oct 9 16:20 EDT 1998 8.6/EMS-1.2sol2) (5.5.2232.9) Subject: RE: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Ian, If only I had this explanation for my last girlfriend!! We'd probably havesplit sooner!! Dennis (Still rolling on the floor) Haftel -----Original Message-----From: Ian Kearney [SMTP:iank@nelson.planet.org.nz]Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 3:57 PM Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Chris , I understood there are certain tools which are not designed to be usedbymales . These include washing machines , dish washers, mops, irons , andmost models of vacunm cleaners . It is my understanding that if theseareused by males then disaster is sure to result and it is just not worth therisk. There is a model of vacumn cleaner which can be used in the workshopbutitis not the same model as the house model . When I used the house modelinthe work shop I had this pointed out to me in rather strong terms beSWMBOas the house model tends to be blocked by bamboo shavings , screws, etc,and it also eats any special "bits" you have put aside for future use. However it seems that I may now have to look for a male model iron forusein the workshop . I would not dear to use the house model after hearingofyour experience . Iank At 11:13 AM 9/10/98 -0800, you wrote:Hmmmm....O.K....since we are sharing our dirty little secrets Igotanother one for you. While practicing Max's method of straightening tipsections with an iron I accidentally discovered how to do a "controlledburn."It then occurred to me (after a few swear words) that by using the irononit's highest setting you are able to simulate a flaming pattern to theindividual strips of a section. Works real nice for restoration work.I'lltell ya, these "irons" make even me look like I know what I'm doing!!!:-)--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Mike Biondo wrote: Actually, since my main wrap color was a dark green, I also took agreensharpie to the guide feet to mask my sometime (oftentimes!) less thangreatwrap job. I'll tell ya, these Sharpies make even me look like I knowwhatI'm doing!!! :-) Mike - pass the Sharpie - BiondoSt. Louis, MO Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri Oct 9 15:37:34 1998 via smap(4.1) Subject: RE: Value of antique rods, reels, lures, etc. John, I've searched around off and on for bamboo rod sites. I've not yet seen any that were devoted to identifying and appraising. The best bet for a fair appraisal is probably by one of the dealers like Dick Spurr, Bob Corsetti, Len Codella, and others. Michael Sinclair's book "Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook" deals primarily with the more common productiontype rods frequently encountered in the U.S. I've personally never seen fly rods with Masonic symbols and script so don't know what that is all about unless they were made by a less known rodmaker. If you have specific names or labels of the makers written on the rod somewhere and can relay specific names to the list, someone might know something about them. If they are unmarked it is much more difficult to patterns, ferrule style, reelseat and grip style, guide style, node spacing make identification easy if it was a more common company or maker. With the number of rods you have it would probably be best to contact one of the experts listed above. This site is dedicated to the buying and selling of antique tackle, primarily lures and reels. Whether you will get an honest answer to a value question is debatable based on some of the conversations and posts I've seen their in recent times. You'll need to be prepared to give full detailed descriptions and condition. Give more weight to those that post to the list with a name rather than privately. http://www.streamside.com/chat/antchat.html Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Fri Oct 9 15:52:39 1998 Subject: Payne 204 Taper Don-The following is the Payne 204 taper I have. The rod was measured overvarnish and the rod was either overvarnished or had been badly redonebecause there were some drips in the varnish. The rod was miced by JohnChanner and posted to the list back in Feb. as an 81/2 Payne. John and Ie-mailed back and forth and finally came to the conclusion that it was a204.1 = .068, 5 = .090, 10 = .109, 15 = .129, 20 = .138, 25 = .150, 30 = .160, 32.5 @ ferrule wrap =.168, 35 = .182, 40 = .201, 45 = .218, 50 = .232, 55 = .242, 60 = .256, 64.75 just above the ferrule wrap =.262, 70 = .282, 75 = .294, 80 = .312, 85 = .327, 90 = .358start hookeeper wrap @ 92. Guides 4.5, 9.5, 15.5, 22.5, 29.75, 36.75, 43.5,52, 61, 70.5, 79.5.If the tip and mid taper resembles your 204 then you can probably use thebutt #'s. Hope this helps. Best Dennis from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Fri Oct 9 15:52:47 1998 Subject: Granger Tapers Chrs-The 9' Granger guide spacing I have is 6 3/8, 12 5/8, 20 1/4, 28 1/4, 361/2 butts to tip ferrule, 40 3/8 butts to mid ferrule, 50, 61 1/2, 74 1/8butts to mid ferrule, 83 (stripper). This is from a 1930's Granger Special. Regards Dennis from dr_matro@cyberramp.net Fri Oct 9 15:56:05 1998 ESMTP idPAA03528 Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Ian I remember a guy walking into the fastener company I worked for andwanted 100 ice skate blade retaining screws. I told him that ice skateblade retaining screws were going for $1.50 each, but I could sell him100 4-40 X1/4 slotted brass flathead machine screws for $5. Thedifference-the name. What you want is a thermal tonkin alignment hand unit, which is the samething as a portable ski waxer. Ken from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Fri Oct 9 15:57:59 1998 0400 Subject: Re[2]: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) The trick I learned with the vaccuum cleaner is to get one that's soPOWERFUL that it doesn't matter if screws or bamboo are involved. The nasty thingthough is that with all that power now I actually LIKE to vaccuum and it hasbecome oneof my house responsibilities....oh well...Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: RE: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Author: at Tcpgate Ian, If only I had this explanation for my last girlfriend!! We'd probably havesplit sooner!! Dennis (Still rolling on the floor) Haftel -----Original Message-----From: Ian Kearney [SMTP:iank@nelson.planet.org.nz]Sent: Friday, October 09, 1998 3:57 PM Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) Chris , I understood there are certain tools which are not designed to be usedbymales . These include washing machines , dish washers, mops, irons , andmost models of vacunm cleaners . It is my understanding that if theseareused by males then disaster is sure to result and it is just not worth therisk. There is a model of vacumn cleaner which can be used in the workshopbutitis not the same model as the house model . When I used the house modelinthe work shop I had this pointed out to me in rather strong terms beSWMBOas the house model tends to be blocked by bamboo shavings , screws, etc,and it also eats any special "bits" you have put aside for future use. However it seems that I may now have to look for a male model iron forusein the workshop . I would not dear to use the house model after hearingofyour experience . Iank At 11:13 AM 9/10/98 -0800, you wrote:Hmmmm....O.K....since we are sharing our dirty little secrets Igotanother one for you. While practicing Max's method of straightening tipsections with an iron I accidentally discovered how to do a "controlledburn."It then occurred to me (after a few swear words) that by using the irononit's highest setting you are able to simulate a flaming pattern to theindividual strips of a section. Works real nice for restoration work.I'lltell ya, these "irons" make even me look like I know what I'm doing!!!:-)--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Mike Biondo wrote: Actually, since my main wrap color was a dark green, I also took agreensharpie to the guide feet to mask my sometime (oftentimes!) less thangreatwrap job. I'll tell ya, these Sharpies make even me look like I knowwhatI'm doing!!! :-) Mike - pass the Sharpie - BiondoSt. Louis, MO Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from chris@artistree.com Fri Oct 9 16:30:46 1998 OAA18162 Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) A "Thermal Tonkin Alignment Hand Unit!!!"Now I'm rolling around on the floor. Geeez...you guys. Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Ken Cole wrote: Ian I remember a guy walking into the fastener company I worked for andwanted 100 ice skate blade retaining screws. I told him that ice skateblade retaining screws were going for $1.50 each, but I could sell him100 4-40 X1/4 slotted brass flathead machine screws for $5. Thedifference-the name. What you want is a thermal tonkin alignment hand unit, which is thesamething as a portable ski waxer. Ken from robert.kope@MCI2000.com Fri Oct 9 16:35:37 1998 with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 21:34:59 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: pressing nodes That's the method that Sir D uses. Check the archives. He uses the iron toheat a flat steel plate and then presses the strips between the iron andtheplate. Says it takes about 1 minute per strip to flatten and straighten thenodes. I tried it, but didn't feel that I could get the nodes as straight as withthe heat gun/vise method. However, that may just be me. If Sir D recommends it, I tend to believe. Iused his splitting method and got 24 strips from the butt section and 32 from the tip section on my second culm. All but 2 of the tip strips wereuseable, and those 2 were ruined by splintering when I split the culm inhalf, not because of any lack of control using Darryl's splitting method. -- Robert Kope -----Original Message----- Subject: pressing nodes It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has any triedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MO from chris@artistree.com Fri Oct 9 16:39:20 1998 OAA19155 Subject: Re: Granger Tapers Dennis, Thanks for your help. :) Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com dennis higham wrote: Chrs-The 9' Granger guide spacing I have is 6 3/8, 12 5/8, 20 1/4, 28 1/4,361/2 butts to tip ferrule, 40 3/8 butts to mid ferrule, 50, 61 1/2, 74 1/8butts to mid ferrule, 83 (stripper). This is from a 1930's GrangerSpecial. from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Oct 9 16:54:58 1998 quartz.netsync.net(8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id RAA23258 for ;Fri, 9 Oct1998 17:54:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Wooden planing forms -Reply RON WILHELM wrote: John; It would be a great help if you could provide a source for your 60 degreerouter bit. I have had some trouble in locating one. Any info would beappreciated. Thanks Ron Wilhelmron, i just ordered one from trendlines. however, i left the catalog atwork so can't get you phone # etc. till monday night. maybe someoneelse on the list will respond wih the info. from WILHELM.RON@epamail.epa.gov Fri Oct 9 16:56:53 1998 10 #26439)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; withNovell_GroupWise; Fri, 09 Oct 1998 17:56:21 -0400 Subject: RE: Wooden planing forms -Reply -Reply Richard; Thanks for the help. Lee Valley has the 60* v groove in stock at a fairprice. Thanks to those who replied.. Steve, Mike, Ralph and John. Ron from cbogart@shentel.net Fri Oct 9 17:04:16 1998 Subject: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web siteon the tollpageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDF file thatprints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris from k5vkq@ix.netcom.com Fri Oct 9 17:37:00 1998 17:36:19 ix14.ix.netcom.comvia smap (V1.3) Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) There is an iron that may interest some of you. It is a small iron used toput iron-on covering on model airplanes. It is about 4 inches long with afoot long handle attached. You can get them at most hobby stores andwww.towerhobbies.com. Regards,mOnisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com However it seems that I may now have to look for a male model iron forusein the workshop . I would not dear to use the house model after hearing ofyour experience . from maxs@geocities.co.jp Fri Oct 9 17:42:18 1998 geocities.co.jp (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id HAA00258 for; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 07:42:13 +0900 (JST) Subject: Re: pressing nodes Lamberson, William R. wrote: It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has any triedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MO I tried it while final planing. While planing, sometimes a straignennode calls back its memory and return to the original dog leg. I putthe triangle section in the groove of planing form (placed a littlenarrower position to have the sections surface above the edge of plane)and press it by iron oneach side of three flats. It also works. I have not tried to flatten nodes while it is not planed.Looking at the Wayne's video, he showed us to use a steel vise to pressthe nodes of split cane after heating. I guess iron also may work ifboth side of the node are filed flat beforehand since iron is theheater and presser (press power is a little weak in this case). My friend told me that though steel vise can flatten the node part, itwill allow the entire section to have slow bend becasue of its shortspan of control. His recommendation is to try to use a vise which has alonger span such as wood (or steel) plates are attached by screws at theboth of side faces of the vise. I am thinking to try steam iron (a feature of recent clothes iron) whenflatten the nodes next time. If it works, the moisture problem will be cleared since we will put itin oven later. Micro wave oven may also be used for heat treatment of nodelesssections. Has someone tried this? Soon we may be working at kitchen. Max-- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html from channer@hubwest.com Fri Oct 9 18:44:01 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A0151C5D0148; Fri, 09 Oct 1998 17:45:25 MDT Subject: Re: 60 degree router bits At 10:30 AM 10/9/98 -0500, you wrote:Ralph sayeth...Sears used to sell a 60 degree router bit. I bought a couple a longtime ago, but I don't know if they are currently available I got one at the local Woodcraft. 60 degree router bits is one of those things you rarely use, so...if anyoneis near the country's navel, aka St. Louis, and needs one, you're welcometo come by and borrow mine. Mike - wishing it was 60 degrees...burrrr, sure was chilly this morning - BiondoSt. Louis, MO Mike;Poor guy. Its been below 20 at my house in the morning for the last weeandbelow 30 for 2 weeks.The good part is that it is generally 60 or better by10 a.m. and even in the winter, if the sun is out it is nice.John(lovin it in Durango) Channer from channer@hubwest.com Fri Oct 9 18:44:16 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A0241C5E0148; Fri, 09 Oct 1998 17:45:40 MDT Subject: Re: Payne 204 Taper At 04:48 PM 10/9/98 -0400, you wrote:Don-The following is the Payne 204 taper I have. The rod was measured overvarnish and the rod was either overvarnished or had been badly redonebecause there were some drips in the varnish. The rod was miced by JohnChanner and posted to the list back in Feb. as an 81/2 Payne. John and Ie-mailed back and forth and finally came to the conclusion that it was a204.1 = .068, 5 = .090, 10 = .109, 15 = .129, 20 = .138, 25 = .150, 30 = .160, 32.5 @ ferrule wrap =.168, 35 = .182, 40 = .201, 45 = .218, 50 = .232, 55 = .242, 60 = .256, 64.75 just above the ferrule wrap =.262, 70 = .282, 75 = .294, 80 = .312, 85 = .327, 90 = .358start hookeeper wrap @ 92. Guides 4.5, 9.5, 15.5, 22.5, 29.75, 36.75, 43.5,52, 61, 70.5, 79.5.If the tip and mid taper resembles your 204 then you can probably use thebutt #'s. Hope this helps. Best Dennis Dennis;I thought that model number looked familiar, but I wasn't sure where I hadseen it, it was in my own files all the time. Sorry Don, I could have givenyou the numbers you needed sooner. Is bad short term memory at 46 a signofimpending Alzheimer's? John Channer from jimgentz@earthlink.net Fri Oct 9 18:54:35 1998 Subject: Re: pressing nodes robert.kope wrote: That's the method that Sir D uses. Check the archives. He uses the irontoheat a flat steel plate and then presses the strips between the iron andtheplate. Says it takes about 1 minute per strip to flatten and straightenthenodes. I tried it, but didn't feel that I could get the nodes as straight as withthe heat gun/vise method. However, that may just be me. If Sir D recommends it, I tend to believe. Iused his splitting method and got 24 strips from the butt section and 32 from the tip section on my second culm. All but 2 of the tip strips wereuseable, and those 2 were ruined by splintering when I split the culm inhalf, not because of any lack of control using Darryl's splitting method. -- Robert Kope -----Original Message-----From: Lamberson, William R. Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 11:27 AMSubject: pressing nodes It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has anytriedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MOI' sure appreciate it if I could see another post or an E-Mail on Darylssplitting method. Thanks, Jim from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Oct 9 19:55:35 1998 (modemcable70.173.mmtl.videotron.net) sims.3.5.1998.07.14.10.43)with SMTP id for Subject: Lost everything BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_SUH4LE1QBCJpiyY7FgZu0A)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_SUH4LE1QBCJpiyY7FgZu0A) BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_/WT1+bqe3t8E7gX6dWRe5g)" --Boundary_(ID_/WT1+bqe3t8E7gX6dWRe5g) I've lost everything in my Microsoft Outlook PST file (past e-mails,addresses, phone numbers, you name it). Could someone please repostDarryl'salterations to Wayne's 7 ft 4 weight taper? Many thanks Richard --Boundary_(ID_/WT1+bqe3t8E7gX6dWRe5g) lost everything in my Microsoft Outlook PST file (past e-mails, = numbers, you name it). Could someone please repost Darryl's alterations = Wayne's 7 ft 4 weight taper? thanks Richard --Boundary_(ID_/WT1+bqe3t8E7gX6dWRe5g)-- --Boundary_(ID_SUH4LE1QBCJpiyY7FgZu0A) mail).vcf" BEGIN:VCARDVERSION:2.1N:Nantel;Richard;;;FN:Richard Nantel (E-mail)ORG:Le groupe MENTOR;TITLE:TEL;WORK;VOICE:(514) 393- 3292TEL;HOME;VOICE:(514) 485-2287TEL;PAGER;VOICE:[1] (514) 111- 1111TEL;WORK;FAX:(514) 393-1483ADR;WORK:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaADR;HOME:;;4374 Old Orchard Avenue;Monteal;Quebec;H4A 3B4;CanadaLABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED- PRINTABLE:4374 Old Orchard =Avenue=3D0D=3D0AMonteal, Quebec H4A 3B4=3D0D=3D0ACanadaEMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:richard.nantel@videotron.caREV:19980514T133343ZEND:VCARD --Boundary_(ID_SUH4LE1QBCJpiyY7FgZu0A)-- from Fallcreek9@aol.com Fri Oct 9 20:02:38 1998 Subject: Re: Old broken antique flyrods and other old hex wood deepsea&steelrods John: That was a very interesting adventure you took us on and muchappreciated. Thank you for sharing you life of fishing the sea with us. Letus know how we can help if you get the urge to split some cane. Best Regards,Richard Tyree from jkallo@midwest.net Fri Oct 9 20:09:58 1998 Subject: Re: Lost everything At 08:38 PM 10/9/98 -0400, you wrote:I've lost everything in my Microsoft Outlook PST file (past e-mails,addresses, phone numbers, you name it). Could someone please repostDarryl's alterations to Wayne's 7 ft 4 weight taper? Many thanks Richard Attachment Converted: "c:\eudora\attach\Richard Nantel(E-mail)6.vcf" Richard,Add .002 to the 5, 10, and 15 measurements of Wayne's rod. I ambuildingone of the two right now (just came in from the shop for a cup of java). Ijust finished the first stage of final planing on the butt, so I'm going tohave to decide which of the two tapers I am gonna use here pretty soon.Oh,life's rough decisions. Joe Joseph S. KalloDpt. of PhilosophySouthern Illinois University at Carbondale from panlone@cinci.infi.net Fri Oct 9 20:34:58 1998 Subject: RE: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans What is the address of your web page? To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web site on the toll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDF file that prints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris from FlyTyr@southshore.com Fri Oct 9 20:37:37 1998 natco.southshore.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id UAA10729 for; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 20:38:56 -0500 Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web site onthetoll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDF filethatprints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris from Collins@uniserve.com Fri Oct 9 20:52:57 1998 Subject: Binder boundary="=====================_908009651==_" --=====================_908009651==_ Gentlemen, I'm new to this hobby/past time/passion of rod binding. Since Ihave read a lot of the past archives I certainly feel a little like anewbie broken record saying, I have bought Garrison, Howell and the bestofthe planing form as well as cane from Demerest. I have finished my binderand I am in the process of making a Sir D rod. I have attached a low resolution JPG picture of my binder to this E-mail.But since I have not seen any such attachments on the list I hope it makesout with this message. If not E-mail me directly and I will send it to youoff the list. The binder construction is interesting as the wheels are made out of MDFboard. I know this sounds weird, being compressed sawdust and all, buttheywork great. I made them on my old Atlas lathe, but a drill press or routercould be used. (this stuff is quit soft) There are two tricks here. Thefirst is using UHMD plastic for the center bearing part of the wheel. Ibought 1 1/2" UHMD plastic rod from the local plastic shop and used it forthe centers of the wheels. (Delrin or glass filled nylon would also work.)The second trick is to coat the wheels with epoxy when they are finished.Iuse Z-POXY FINISHING RESIN (my favorite glue in my pre-rod buildinghobbies) The finishing resin sinks in to the MDF and forms a very hard andtough surface. This binder has a hand crank in the front and a double back wheel so thatit can also work with a sewing machine motor. This binder is modeled of a picture I saw on the internet once and I havenever been able to find again. So if I stole your design please accept myforgiveness. If you would like to find out more information drop me a line. Also the Z-POXY is a very thin epoxy with a long drying time. It isavailiable from most large hobby shops. As I said, I use it for a ton ofnon-rod building hobbies. Anyone else had experiance with it? Doug CollinsI'm also interested in hearing from any other Canadian rod builders on thewest coast. My splitting could sure use some work and any options toreducecross border charges would be greatfully accepted. (My first three culmsmake a lie-Nielsen plane look cheap!)--=====================_908009651==_ x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752" 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--=====================_908009651==_ --=====================_908009651==_-- from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Oct 9 21:12:04 1998 quartz.netsync.net (8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id WAA12147 for; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 22:12:03 -0400 Subject: Re: pressing nodes JIM GENTZ wrote: robert.kope wrote: That's the method that Sir D uses. Check the archives. He uses the irontoheat a flat steel plate and then presses the strips between the iron andtheplate. Says it takes about 1 minute per strip to flatten and straightenthenodes. I tried it, but didn't feel that I could get the nodes as straight as withthe heat gun/vise method. However, that may just be me. If Sir D recommends it, I tend tobelieve. Iused his splitting method and got 24 strips from the butt section and32 from the tip section on my second culm. All but 2 of the tip stripswereuseable, and those 2 were ruined by splintering when I split the culm inhalf, not because of any lack of control using Darryl's splitting method. -- Robert Kope -----Original Message-----From: Lamberson, William R. Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 11:27 AMSubject: pressing nodes It seems that irons are becoming a popular rodmaking tool. Has anytriedusing an iron to flatten nodes while preparing strips? Bill LambersonColumbia, MOI' sure appreciate it if I could see another post or an E-Mail on Darylssplitting method. Thanks, Jimi would like to see the e-mail on the splitting method also. thanks jerry from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Oct 9 21:13:07 1998 quartz.netsync.net (8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id WAA12242 for; Fri, 9 Oct 1998 22:13:07 -0400 Subject: Re: Lost everything Richard Nantel wrote: I've lost everything in my Microsoft Outlook PST file (past e-mails,addresses, phone numbers, you name it). Could someone please repostDarryl's alterations to Wayne's 7 ft 4 weight taper? Many thanks Richard Name: Richard Nantel (E-mail).vcfPart 1.2 Type: unspecified type (application/octet-stream)Encoding: quoted-printablerichard, add .002 at the 5, 10 & 15 stations jerry from maxs@geocities.co.jp Fri Oct 9 21:20:14 1998 geocities.co.jp (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA12741 for; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:20:10 +0900 (JST) Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Gentlemen, (makers page) then you'll find it. He also posted many useful articles under Tips and archivespage too. Max Tony Spezio wrote: Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web site onthetoll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDF filethatprints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris -- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html from ddodd@hrfn.net Fri Oct 9 21:29:09 1998 machine1.hrfn.net(8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id WAA24256 for ;Fri, 9 Oct1998 22:30:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Wayne Cattanach a true gentleman Don, I'm one of the new guys who has decided to fish with only son.The son is moving to Colorado to return to school AND fly fish.He fishes glass now but if I can put together enough smarts in thenext two years, I will hand him his first cane rod when he graduates.I want that rod to be one that I made. I could buy one for him butit would not be the same. This is why I'm in this list ........to listen and learn....and askNewbie Questions. Dave Dodd, ddodd@hrfn.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Wayne Cattanach a true gentleman Bret, 100% ditto's from me. Wayne, I've recently returned from a fishing vacation and haven't caughtupwith all the email and don't quite know what the heck is happening, but toWayne (and others too) - thanks for the help and encourgagement. Sorry ifthelist flow doesn't appeal to you anymore. IMHO, if the list is changing it's because the next generation of makersarecoming on-line and they're asking questions that might seem like oldnews.Again, IMHO the greatest thing that the "old-timers" can do for the"younger"set is to hang in there - despite all the "dumb" questions. I for one stillhave a lot of them stored up and unanswered despite not being a memberofthe"youth set" (hit 51 in June) anymore. More than willing to lift a brew (homemade?), or wet a fly, with anyonefromthe list. Don Burns PS - Praying to make Grayrock 99. from maxs@geocities.co.jp Fri Oct 9 21:56:21 1998 geocities.co.jp (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA26986 for; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:56:15 +0900 (JST) Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Sorry, Rodmaker's web is as follows; http://home1.get.net/JFoster/ Max Max Satoh wrote: Gentlemen, (makers page) then you'llfind it. He also posted many useful articles under Tips and archivespage too. Max Tony Spezio wrote: Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web siteonthe toll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDF filethat prints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html -- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html from richjez@enteract.com Fri Oct 9 22:25:01 1998 0000 Subject: Re: Wooden planing forms -Reply Check out a Blck and Decker store, They have numerous outlet stores. Minewas$6.50Rich At 08:13 AM 10/9/98 -0600, you wrote:Sears used to sell a 60 degree router bit. I bought a couple a longtime ago, but I don't know if they are currently availableRalph Moon *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro @ /||/______/_||_________________________________________|| /\ / \ > > from Canerods@aol.com Fri Oct 9 22:35:17 1998 Subject: RE:Re: Payne 204 Taper In a message dated 10/9/98 4:49:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,channer@hubwest.com writes: butt #'s. Hope this helps. Best Dennis Dennis;I thought that model number looked familiar, but I wasn't sure where Ihadseen it, it was in my own files all the time. Sorry Don, I could have givenyou the numbers you needed sooner. Is bad short term memory at 46 a signofimpending Alzheimer's? John Channer Dennis (and John), Thanks for the taper. I don't have the sections yet, so I can't match for afew more days. I bought the mid, tip, rodsack and tube for a good price andwould like to add a butt that would match the lost original. I don't want tofool anyone, but it would be nice to have a complete rod. Who's a very goodPayne restorer? Bob Summers? MAybe someone on the list? Please reply ifyoucan do the job. Thanks, Don Burns PS - John, if you've got the big "A" at 46 then do remember to write downinyour will (RIGHT NOW) that all your rods were to go to me. from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Fri Oct 9 23:56:53 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Wooden planing forms -Reply Trendlines owns Post Tools -- so, you can probably get it there as well.(Post Tools seems to sell the entire Trendlines catalog of router bits fromwhat I've seen.) One caveat on Trendlines, it is primarily a marketingcompany, and they seem to think that woodworkers tend to be golfers(anotheritem they market) and put my name on every golf mailing list there is. Ofcourse, I don't play and have no interest in golf. You might want to makeit clear to them whether you do or do not wish to wind up on mailing lists. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Wooden planing forms -Reply RON WILHELM wrote: John; It would be a great help if you could provide a source for your 60 degreerouter bit. I have had some trouble in locating one. Any info would beappreciated. Thanks Ron Wilhelmron, i just ordered one from trendlines. however, i left the catalog atwork so can't get you phone # etc. till monday night. maybe someoneelse on the list will respond wih the info. from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 10 00:07:47 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) They are made by Seal and sold for photography (tacking irons for tackingdry mount tissue before using the dry mount press). They are also sold byalot of woodworking stores as "edge banding irons" to iron on the self- stickveneer on the edges of wood. Seal makes a couple of different ones, thenicest one has variable temperature and Teflon on the iron surface.Cheapest source I know of (where I bought mine) is B&H Camera in NYC --theyadvertise in all the photo magazines + have a website (don't know theURL). George Bourke All the usual disclaimers, including absolutely no financial interest inwhether you buy this item or a competing item (if one exists) or in whereyou buy it (should you decide to do so).-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) There is an iron that may interest some of you. It is a small iron used toput iron-on covering on model airplanes. It is about 4 inches long with afoot long handle attached. You can get them at most hobby stores andwww.towerhobbies.com. Regards,mOnisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com However it seems that I may now have to look for a male model iron forusein the workshop . I would not dear to use the house model after hearingofyour experience . from chris@artistree.com Sat Oct 10 01:47:46 1998 XAA16169 Subject: Re: Payne 204 Taper Don,I'm sure there are others out there who can do the job but just a thought.Youmight want to contact Mark at E.F. Payne in Sisters, OR. Phone: (541) 549-1544.Was up at his shop this summer and from talking with him it sounded likehe didrepairs. Really nice guy who did look a bit overworked so it might take awhile.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com p.s.- All disclaimers apply. Dennis (and John), Thanks for the taper. I don't have the sections yet, so I can't match for afew more days. I bought the mid, tip, rodsack and tube for a good priceandwould like to add a butt that would match the lost original. I don't wanttofool anyone, but it would be nice to have a complete rod. Who's a verygoodPayne restorer? Bob Summers? MAybe someone on the list? Please replyif youcan do the job. Thanks, Don Burns PS - John, if you've got the big "A" at 46 then do remember to write downinyour will (RIGHT NOW) that all your rods were to go to me. from channer@hubwest.com Sat Oct 10 03:17:17 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A86011CE0150; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 02:18:40 MDT Subject: RE:Re: Payne 204 Taper At 11:34 PM 10/9/98 EDT, you wrote:In a message dated 10/9/98 4:49:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,channer@hubwest.com writes: butt #'s. Hope this helps. Best Dennis Dennis;I thought that model number looked familiar, but I wasn't sure where Ihadseen it, it was in my own files all the time. Sorry Don, I could have givenyou the numbers you needed sooner. Is bad short term memory at 46 asign ofimpending Alzheimer's? John Channer Dennis (and John), Thanks for the taper. I don't have the sections yet, so I can't match for afew more days. I bought the mid, tip, rodsack and tube for a good priceandwould like to add a butt that would match the lost original. I don't wanttofool anyone, but it would be nice to have a complete rod. Who's a verygoodPayne restorer? Bob Summers? MAybe someone on the list? Please replyif youcan do the job. Thanks, Don Burns PS - John, if you've got the big "A" at 46 then do remember to write downinyour will (RIGHT NOW) that all your rods were to go to me. Don;Sure thing, I'll put it on my list of things not to forget right away.Let's see, 3 rights a left and a right to get to work(don't stop at theriver to fish) 3 lefts a right and a left to get home(don't stop at theriver to fish)and , what was that 3rd thing?John from saltwein@swbell.net Sat Oct 10 06:22:46 1998 gw2adm.rcsntx.swbell.net GAA14203 Subject: Bamboo Fly Rod Magazine Hello All, Is there any more information on the whereabouts of the latest issues? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat Oct 10 07:23:46 1998 Sat, 10 Oct 1998 20:23:16 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: 60 degree router bits On Fri, 9 Oct 1998, Mike Biondo wrote: Ralph sayeth...Sears used to sell a 60 degree router bit. I bought a couple a longtime ago, but I don't know if they are currently available I got one at the local Woodcraft. 60 degree router bits is one of those things you rarely use, so...if anyoneis near the country's navel, aka St. Louis, and needs one, you're welcometo come by and borrow mine. Mike - wishing it was 60 degrees...burrrr, sure was chilly this morning - BiondoSt. Louis, MO You can use the router bits to make hex shaped rod cases. Just thickness some timber to size then pass them across the router. The angle is milled and all that remains is gluing. The best way to bind the cases is use thin strips of inner tube rubber. Start wraping the case with the rubber and keep going, adding strips as you need. The rubber will create even pressure. Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat Oct 10 07:31:13 1998 Sat, 10 Oct 1998 20:30:44 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung) Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) On Fri, 9 Oct 1998, Onis Cogburn wrote: There is an iron that may interest some of you. It is a small iron used toput iron-on covering on model airplanes. It is about 4 inches long with afoot long handle attached. You can get them at most hobby stores andwww.towerhobbies.com. Regards,mOnisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com As some-one experienced in keeping the little woman happy by giving her lathes, dipping tanks, bluing troughs, mast benches, taking extend sailing trips with open ended return dates so she can mantain her ownspace etc etc I am strongly recomending you all buy this iron and NOT use the domestic model. Using the domestic iron would be the thin edge of the wedge and maycreate marital discord. The domestic iron would certainly do the job, but it isn't *specalised* is it! ;-) Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ from cbogart@shentel.net Sat Oct 10 07:45:45 1998 Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Max Thanks for pointing people in the right direction - I really like peopleto encourage morepeople to use the Rodmakers homepage as a general source of reference - alot ofthe questionspeople ask can be answered using it - especially for info, suppliers,sources, andmakers. I just assumed people were using it or knew to check three. Also I had posed myURL lastweekwith the Medved plans. But here it is (pls bookmark it): http://www.shentel.net/canerodThe plans are linked off the Rodmaking Classes page. I will update mynavigationbar soonand put a direct link to it. Chris On Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:57:08 +0900, Max Satoh wrote: Sorry, Rodmaker's web is as follows; http://home1.get.net/JFoster/ Max Max Satoh wrote: Gentlemen, (makers page) then you'llfind it. He also posted many useful articles under Tips and archivespage too. Max Tony Spezio wrote: Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my web siteonthe toll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDFfilethat prints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html -- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html Regards Chris from cbogart@shentel.net Sat Oct 10 07:51:39 1998 Subject: Re: Planing form material TonyI have posted pictures of the beveler and the plans (2 different sets)onmy web site - the second set is Al's plans he used to give out but is in the process of updating them with the latest and greatest modifications. check http://www.shentel.net/canerod under the rodmaking class info. BTW- the Al Port pictures are the ones I sent him of Als beveler. Chris On Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:07:16 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote: Rich,Would it be too much trouble to send them to me,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rich Jezioro wrote: I have some digitized photos of Al's binder taken at Grayling. Contactme offthe list if you want them. Rich Jezioro At 03:45 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:Mark, Someone told me Al Port may have a PIC or two. If so maybe Al couldsendthemor post them for all to see. ThanksBob VRobert Venneri'sCustom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@ /||/______/_||_________________________________________||/\/ \ > > > / \ > Regards Chris from jaquin@netsync.net Sat Oct 10 07:52:04 1998 quartz.netsync.net (8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id IAA04453 for; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 08:52:01 -0400 Subject: Re: Binder Doug & Lynn Collins wrote: Gentlemen, I'm new to this hobby/past time/passion of rod binding. SinceIhave read a lot of the past archives I certainly feel a little like anewbie broken record saying, I have bought Garrison, Howell and the bestofthe planing form as well as cane from Demerest. I have finished mybinderand I am in the process of making a Sir D rod. I have attached a low resolution JPG picture of my binder to this E-mail.But since I have not seen any such attachments on the list I hope itmakesout with this message. If not E-mail me directly and I will send it to youoff the list. The binder construction is interesting as the wheels are made out of MDFboard. I know this sounds weird, being compressed sawdust and all, buttheywork great. I made them on my old Atlas lathe, but a drill press or routercould be used. (this stuff is quit soft) There are two tricks here. Thefirst is using UHMD plastic for the center bearing part of the wheel. Ibought 1 1/2" UHMD plastic rod from the local plastic shop and used itforthe centers of the wheels. (Delrin or glass filled nylon would alsowork.)> The second trick is to coat the wheels with epoxy when they arefinished. Iuse Z-POXY FINISHING RESIN (my favorite glue in my pre-rod buildinghobbies) The finishing resin sinks in to the MDF and forms a very hardandtough surface. This binder has a hand crank in the front and a double back wheel so thatit can also work with a sewing machine motor. This binder is modeled of a picture I saw on the internet once and I havenever been able to find again. So if I stole your design please accept myforgiveness. If you would like to find out more information drop me aline. Also the Z-POXY is a very thin epoxy with a long drying time. It isavailiable from most large hobby shops. As I said, I use it for a ton ofnon-rod building hobbies. Anyone else had experiance with it? Doug CollinsI'm also interested in hearing from any other Canadian rod builders onthewest coast. My splitting could sure use some work and any options toreducecross border charges would be greatfully accepted. (My first three culmsmake a lie-Nielsen plane look cheap!) --------------------------------------------------------------- Name: binder.jpgPart 1.2 Type: JPEG Image (image/jpeg)Encoding: base64 ---------------------------------------------------------------hi doug nice job on the binder!!! from looking at it it appears tobind in both directions at the same time(cross-stitch pattern). am icorrect in this assumption?? from dmcfall@ODYSSEE.NET Sat Oct 10 08:03:52 1998 Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans The correct URL is http://home1.gte.net/JFoster/ Dave M from anglport@con2.com Sat Oct 10 08:18:32 1998 Subject: Re: Planing form material ETC All,It's Art.....ART......Port. I managed to go 53 years as Art (actually, if you want a good laugh it's Arthur Port as in Port, Arthur!) andwith a stroke of his keyboard Bob Venneri rechristens me "Al". It ain'tAL!!!!!I'm presuming that the little anecdote will set it in your mind, butjust for good measure: everybody, Say three times, Art Port, Art Port,Al..er...Art Port. EVERYONE (especially Bob)! Take this in the manner it's intended,have a laugh and CALL ME ART (apologies to Paul Simon),ART BTW, I have the BEVELLER pix but not the binder pix that some arereferringto. I can't figure if they're misstating their requests or if I've sent thewrong pix to a few fellows who asked. Anyone who has trouble gettingbeveller pix, lemme know and I'll fire 'em off. At 08:51 AM 10/10/98 -0400, you wrote:TonyI have posted pictures of the beveler and the plans (2 different sets)onmy web site - the second set is Al's plans he used to give out but is inthe process of updating them with the latest and greatest modifications. check http://www.shentel.net/canerod under the rodmaking class info. BTW- the Al Port pictures are the ones I sent him of Als beveler. Chris On Fri, 09 Oct 1998 13:07:16 -0500, Tony Spezio wrote: Rich,Would it be too much trouble to send them to me,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Rich Jezioro wrote: I have some digitized photos of Al's binder taken at Grayling. Contactme offthe list if you want them. Rich Jezioro At 03:45 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:Mark, Someone told me Al Port may have a PIC or two. If so maybe Al couldsendthemor post them for all to see. ThanksBob VRobert Venneri'sCustom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 246 5882 *________________________________)// Rich Jezioro@ /||/______/_||_________________________________________||/\/ \ > > >> / \ > Regards Chris from AAARPTRADEUSA@webtv.net Sat Oct 10 08:47:08 1998 102.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.gso.08Dec97) with 102.iap.bryant.webtv.net(8.8.8/mt.gso.26Feb98) id GAA25296; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 06:47:06 -0700 ETAtAhUAh1WmSF4dsZwoh4NCt/8Pg4RNM+wCFFLhQXFFNxrlUFkz7VvbMUfTEl/k Subject: Old what's his name My old Navy buddy was named ALThere's a guy at my church named ALWe have a goof as Vice President named ALMrs. ABAMA named her first son ALThere's a new guy on the rodmakers named AL ......life is funny, choosing your son's first name is now a lost ART. from hokkaido_flyfisher@yahoo.com Sat Oct 10 09:33:57 1998 07:32:57PDT Subject: Re: Bamboo Fly Rod Magazine Steve, It is Christian here in Japan (one of the editors at large). About two weeks ago, I received the May-June issue ... still waiting for the July-August. I spoke with Mark Metcalf (Editor in Chief) in California about a month ago about their "delivery problems". He told me then that the BFRM had problems with their shipper, and were in the process of doing the shipping "in-house". The latest issue should be on its way. Hope this helps. Cheers, Christian ---Steve wrote: Hello All, Is there any more information on the whereabouts of the latest issues? Regards, Steve==Mr. Christian THALACKER Otaru University of CommerceMatsugae 2-6-30 Otaru International Center #253047-0022 Hokkaido JAPAN Midori 3-5-21 Otaru 047 JAPANTel: (81) (134) 22-2671 Tel: (81) (134) 27-5261Fax: (81) (134) 27-5264 http://members.tripod.com/~Nijimasu/0.html_________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from gwbarnes@gwi.net Sat Oct 10 10:16:56 1998 Subject: No Telling Where A Casual Comment May Lead While visiting friends in Newcastle, England, I went with my friend topick up a hedge trimmer that he had sharpened. The shop operator had anopen belt drive drill press and I commented it was even older than mine.We both agreed they were still serviceable if you knew their planing forms for cane rods, among other things. There was instantreaction. Seems he is a fly fisherman. Instantly wanted to know if myfriend had taken me to the Hardy plant and museum. That was taken careof the next afternoon, as Alnwick was only 30 miles away. Unfortunatelythe plant tour was held in the morning but the museum was super. A bitdisappointed that the VHS I purchased concentrated more on their reelsthan cane rod construction. Their rods were displayed all assembled andwe were free to flex them. Another misfortune - I'd left my micrometerat home. George Barnes from mbleak@telepath.com Sat Oct 10 11:46:04 1998 telepath.com (8.9.0/8.7.3) with ESMTP id LAA12402 for Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Thanks so much Chris and Tom for these plans. There are some of us(myself) whofeel the need to haveour hand held and be spoon fed virtually every step of the way.It occurs to me that there may be some unfamiliar with pdf extensions sothis isprovided in the spiritof being helpful. The latest Acrobat reader can be found at:http://www.adobe.com/prodindex/acrobat/readstep.html.I use Netscape and it must be made aware of the new mime type to viewand print.There are variousflavors of netscape but in general you must do the following:Start Netscape. Choose "Options", " General Preferences" and go to the"Helpers"dialog box. Push the"New" button to define a new mime type. Enter Application in the "MimeType" fieldand pdf in the "SubType" field, then push "OK" Now make sure that your new Mime type isselected inthe large list box ofknown types. Once selected, this activates the remaining fields in thisdialogbox. Enter pdf in the"Extensions" field Select the "Launch Application" radio button andfinallyEnterC:\ACROREAD\ACROREAD.EXE (or the path to ACROREAD.EXE you enteredwhen running thesetup utility) inthe "Launch Application" field and push "OK". Note: This is where mostpeople makea big mistake. Whenentering the path to ACROREAD.EXE, make sure you entered the path to theexecutable version, installedduring setup.Many people accidentally enter the path to the temporary downloadedversion!Pdf is an excellent way to convey information through diagram/plans. One lastthing, I have found thatplans are more clear when printed out.Cheers Mike. The Second Coming Turning and turning in the widening gyreThe Falcon cannot hear the falconer:Things fall apart: the centre cannot hold:Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world,The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhereThe ceremony of innocense is drowned:The best lack all conviction, while the worstAre full of passionate intensityW.B.YeatsThis is the best flyfishing listserv bar none and Thank You to all. cbogart wrote: Max Thanks for pointing people in the right direction - I really likepeopleto encourage morepeople to use the Rodmakers homepage as a general source of reference -a lot ofthe questionspeople ask can be answered using it - especially for info, suppliers,sources,and makers. I justassumed people were using it or knew to check three. Also I had posedmy URLlast weekwith the Medved plans. But here it is (pls bookmark it): http://www.shentel.net/canerodThe plans are linked off the Rodmaking Classes page. I will update mynavigationbar soonand put a direct link to it. Chris On Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:57:08 +0900, Max Satoh wrote: Sorry, Rodmaker's web is as follows; http://home1.get.net/JFoster/ Max Max Satoh wrote: Gentlemen, Yoda(makers page) then you'llfind it. He also posted many useful articles under Tips and archivespage too. Max Tony Spezio wrote: Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my website onthe toll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDFfilethat prints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html Regards Chris from RVenneri@aol.com Sat Oct 10 12:24:56 1998 Subject: Re: Planing form material ETC Sorry I must have had you confused with Art Medved. It will never happenagainyou can bet on that Bob VRobert Venneri's Custom Components21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477914 426 5882rvenneri@aol.com from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sat Oct 10 14:11:07 1998 (BST) Subject: Nasty Stains! boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01BDF48A.05A670A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BDF48A.05A670A0 I am working on an old cane sea rod where the rings had been whipped =with copper wire. Over the years the staining has become quite bad.As I am not using the rod for its original use these satins are visible. =I know that I am unlikely to totally remove them but it would be good to =reduce them a little.I have used Hydrogen Peroxide to 'bleach' stains out of wood in the past =but have never used it on cane.Has anyone else?Any thoughts on how to lessen the stains?Thanks in advanceTim. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BDF48A.05A670A0 I am working on an old cane searod = become quite bad.As I am not using the rod for its = these satins are visible. I know that I am unlikely to totally remove = it would be good to reduce them a little.I have used Hydrogen Peroxide to= out of wood in the past but have never used it on cane.Has anyone else?Any thoughts on how to lessen stains?Thanks in advanceTim. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BDF48A.05A670A0-- from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Sat Oct 10 16:18:34 1998 Subject: RE: Payne 204 Don-Try Steve Blake, 808 South Pine, Sisters, OR 97759. 503-549- 0110.Steverepairs and restores rods for Len Codella, Marty Keane, etc. He's done tworepairs for me and did a great job, fast and very reasonable. If Stevedoesn't work you could also try Dwight Lyons, 7156 SE 118th Drive,Portland, OR 97226. 503-760-3933....lyons@teleport.com. Dwight's anothermaster restorer.Chris... I thought Dave Holloman had bought the Payne Co. from REC andopened it outside Eugene, OR and then moved to Sisters. Has it sold again? Regards Dennis from channer@hubwest.com Sat Oct 10 17:13:04 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AC4321A80104; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:14:27 MDT Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! At 08:10 PM 10/10/98 +0100, you wrote:I am working on an old cane sea rod where the rings had been whippedwithcopper wire. Over the years the staining has become quite bad.As I am not using the rod for its original use these satins are visible. Iknow that I am unlikely to totally remove them but it would be good toreduce them a little.I have used Hydrogen Peroxide to 'bleach' stains out of wood in the pastbut have never used it on cane.Has anyone else?Any thoughts on how to lessen the stains?Thanks in advanceTim. Attachment Converted: "C:\EUDORA\ATTACH\NastySta.htm" I would like to hear any ideas on this subject myself. I have had severalrods and I have one now with black stains from the guide feet and havebeenwondering if there is any safe way to bleach them out. I would experimentto see if oxalic acid wood bleach or deck brightener works on these stains,but this rod is too good to play with. John Channer from channer@hubwest.com Sat Oct 10 17:14:22 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id AC9221AE0104; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:15:46 MDT Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) At 08:30 PM 10/10/98 +0800, you wrote:On Fri, 9 Oct 1998, Onis Cogburn wrote: There is an iron that may interest some of you. It is a small iron usedtoput iron-on covering on model airplanes. It is about 4 inches long withafoot long handle attached. You can get them at most hobby stores andwww.towerhobbies.com. Regards,mOnisk5vkq@ix.netcom.com As some-one experienced in keeping the little woman happy by giving her lathes, dipping tanks, bluing troughs, mast benches, taking extend sailing trips with open ended return dates so she can mantain her ownspace etc etc I am strongly recomending you all buy this iron and NOT use the domestic model. Using the domestic iron would be the thin edge of the wedge and maycreate marital discord. The domestic iron would certainly do the job, but it isn't *specalised* is it! ;-) Tony /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.htmlThe Australian connection A computer without windows is like a fish without a bicycle /***********************************************************************/ Guys;Many years ago I needed to borrow the domestic iron to do some hot meltedge banding for a laminate countertop. When I asked SWMBO if I could usethe iron I was told to take it, get it out of her sight and that she neverwanted to see it again. It has been in the workshop ever since. Just mygood fortune. John Channer from saltwein@swbell.net Sat Oct 10 17:57:56 1998 gw3adm.rcsntx.swbell.net RAA00855 Subject: Upon returning from SRG Hi All, I wanted to share this with you earlier, but there was a lot of hubbubon the list when I got back from Arkansas. Shortly after my brother and I arrived at the house from three days offishing and talking rodmaking, my granddaughter approached me and asked;"Grampa will you take me fishing"? I leaned forward and said, "Honey Iwill take you anywhere you want to go". She immediately realized that nothing was going to happen right away, soshe stepped back from me and spread her arms to take in the whole roomand said, "If anybody wants to take me fishing, my car seat is in mydaddy's car". Naturally we all roared with laughter. She will be three next month. Iwonder if she thinks fishing is like shopping? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from chris@artistree.com Sat Oct 10 18:52:58 1998 Subject: Re: Payne 204 Dennis,Not sure of the history but Dave Holloman (sorry, original post hadincorrectname) does own the Payne Co. and resides in Sisters OR. Think he told methathe was near Eugene at one time and before that resided in Vermont? Doknowaside from new rods that he had quite a few rods on the bench that were in doingthe Payne metal working forever was still active & supplying parts to him.The original Payne beveler (which is made out of wood) is on display in hislobby and is a neat piece of history. It's not in use anymore as Dave uses amore modern beveler but was told that it does still work and will cutstrips. Not familiar with Steve Blake. I see he also resides in Sisters, wonder ifheworks with Dave on projects or has his own thing going.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com dennis higham wrote: Don-Try Steve Blake, 808 South Pine, Sisters, OR 97759. 503-549- 0110.Steverepairs and restores rods for Len Codella, Marty Keane, etc. He's donetworepairs for me and did a great job, fast and very reasonable. If Stevedoesn't work you could also try Dwight Lyons, 7156 SE 118th Drive,Portland, OR 97226. 503-760-3933....lyons@teleport.com. Dwight'sanothermaster restorer.Chris... I thought Dave Holloman had bought the Payne Co. from REC andopened it outside Eugene, OR and then moved to Sisters. Has it soldagain? Regards Dennis from sshorb@ozip.net Sat Oct 10 19:01:14 1998 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.2 release 221 ID# 0-55785U1000L100S0V35)with ESMTP id net for ;Sat, 10 Oct 1998 19:01:01 -0500 Subject: Rod identification I have an old cane rod I found in an attic 45 years ago that I wouldlike to identify. It is a 9 ft 3 pc with a red/pink reel seat, lookslike plastic. The ferrules and the rest of the hardware is chromeplated, but it doesn't look like brass, more a dull gray. The ferruleshave a rolled lip and look like they have been pinned and crimped on.The tip has intermediate wraps that are some shade of yellow. The onlyletters on the tiny piece of label left are "A" space "S" or "5" inblack letters on a gold background, just above the letters is whatappears to be a black spincast reel on a red background. The labelappears to have been egg shaped or possibly like a horizon.I don't thinkit's worth much and want to refinish it as I become more involved incane rod construction. Thanks in advance for any information. Skip from robert.kope@MCI2000.com Sat Oct 10 19:21:38 1998 with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sun, 11 Oct 1998 00:21:06 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: splitting cane (was pressing nodes) Columbia, MOI' sure appreciate it if I could see another post or an E-Mail on Darylssplitting method. Thanks, Jimi would like to see the e-mail on the splitting method also. thanks jerry I'll take a shot at describing the method. There have been a few postingson the subject, but the one that gave the most detail had the methodbackwards I think. I ruined a few strips on my first culm before I got thehang of it. Basically, you split the culm in half, then split the halves into thirds forthe bottom and fourths for the top. Each of the strips you now have willbesplit into quarters. You start a split on the end of a strip, making the two sides as equal asyou can. I recall that Darryl uses a pair of end nippers to start thesplit, but a knife, froe, or meat cleaver will also work. After you startthe split you just split the 2 halves apart using your hands. I grip oneside in each hand and press against the opposite half with each thumb. Youwant to be able to control the rate at which the split travels down thestrip. When the split starts to wander to one side, and it will, it will tend tocontinue toward the thinner side of the split and run off the side of thestrip. The natural tendency is for the split to go toward the side thatbends the most. To bring the split back to the center, you must bend thestrip toward the thicker side of the split. This seemed a littlecounter-intuitive to me because I expected the split to want to gostraight.Pushing toward the thicker side forces the thicker side to bend more andthesplit will go back toward the center. Work your way down the stripkeepingthe split where you can put pressure on it. Once you split a strip in half,repeat the process on each half to make quarters. In order to bend the strip you have to wedge the unsplit end of it so youcan put lateral pressure on it as you're splitting it. Darryl wedges thestrip between a couple of C-clamps that are clamped upside down on thesideof his workbench. I had trouble keeping the strip down when I tried thissoI put a couple of C-clamps with the screws on top about a foot apart andslide the strip through both clamps, between the screw and the back of theclamp. This allows me to put lateral pressure on the strip and I can stillslide it easily as the split travels down the strip. This is the sameprinciple as using a knife or froe clamped in a vise and pushing the thickerside of the split against the side of the blade to bring the split backtoward the center. You press against the thicker side, forcing it to bendmore and the split will travel toward it. The advantage here is that thereare no sharp implements to hurt yourself with while you are splitting. It goes really fast once you get the hang of it, and the real advantage ofsplitting so many strips is not the number of strips, but their size. Withgood control of the splitting process, you can make strips narrower, whichmeans it takes less filing, less time to heat nodes for straightening, lessmaterial to remove in preliminary and final planing - less work ingeneral. -- Robert Kope from Fallcreek9@aol.com Sat Oct 10 19:29:22 1998 Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! In a message dated 10/10/98 2:13:59 PM Central Daylight Time,watson@cape-consult.co.uk writes: Tim: I tried Hydrogen Peroxide full strength on mold stains that hadprogressed thru the bamboo from the inside of the culm to the surface oftheenamel. It had no affect whatsoever on either the mold stains or theenamel. Wishing it had,Richard Tyree from mrbamboo@quik.com Sat Oct 10 20:41:34 1998 Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans If you would like, you can e-mail me the article and plans, and I will postthem on http://www.rodbuilding.com/. Paul Whitely -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Smithwick EZ Binder Plans Max Thanks for pointing people in the right direction - I really like peopleto encourage morepeople to use the Rodmakers homepage as a general source of reference -alot of the questionspeople ask can be answered using it - especially for info, suppliers,sources, and makers. I justassumed people were using it or knew to check three. Also I had posedmyURL last weekwith the Medved plans. But here it is (pls bookmark it):http://www.shentel.net/canerodThe plans are linked off the Rodmaking Classes page. I will update mynavigation bar soonand put a direct link to it. Chris On Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:57:08 +0900, Max Satoh wrote: Sorry, Rodmaker's web is as follows; http://home1.get.net/JFoster/ Max Max Satoh wrote: Gentlemen, Yoda(makers page) then you'llfind it. He also posted many useful articles under Tips and archivespage too. Max Tony Spezio wrote: Chris,Would post your URL for us new comers.Thanks Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com cbogart wrote: To All: I have now posted Tom's plans for his EZ Binder to my website on the toll pageunder his smiling face using it. The file is a reasonable sized PDFfile that prints out justfine and is easy to read. Regards Chris --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html --Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail:maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html Regards Chris from chatterbox@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 10 21:50:32 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP +0000 Subject: New England Fly FishingTour What's a MUST see (in the line of fly fishing) while touring NewHampshire,Vermont, and Maine Next week. I've got the museum in Manchester, Vermont on the list. And the Battenkill. Californian -- will be there for the first time. Thanks, RD from ddodd@hrfn.net Sat Oct 10 21:58:14 1998 (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id WAA19359 for ;Sat, 10 Oct1998 22:59:15 -0400 Subject: Re: Dirty Little Secrets (Blacking Guides) This is great.....a "Thermal Tonkin Alignment Hand Unit," or in short... a"TTAHU"is the same as my sons portable GE 1940ish electric iron than he pulls outof hisduffle bag and iron on his ski wax. I would have never known. (By thewas, somelady saw the "iron" and offered him $25.00 for it. It is a rare small,early GE "TravelIron". He still has it. "TTAHU" for real,Dave I remember a guy walking into the fastener company I worked for andwanted 100 ice skate blade retaining screws. I told him that ice skateblade retaining screws were going for $1.50 each, but I could sell him100 4-40 X1/4 slotted brass flathead machine screws for $5. Thedifference-the name. What you want is a thermal tonkin alignment hand unit, which is the samething as a portable ski waxer. Ken from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 10 23:33:55 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Payne 204 You might want to see if Walt Carpenter is still doing restorations...hemayhave built the rod originally at Payne. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Payne 204 Don-Try Steve Blake, 808 South Pine, Sisters, OR 97759. 503-549- 0110.Steverepairs and restores rods for Len Codella, Marty Keane, etc. He's done tworepairs for me and did a great job, fast and very reasonable. If Stevedoesn't work you could also try Dwight Lyons, 7156 SE 118th Drive,Portland, OR 97226. 503-760-3933....lyons@teleport.com. Dwight'sanothermaster restorer.Chris... I thought Dave Holloman had bought the Payne Co. from REC andopened it outside Eugene, OR and then moved to Sisters. Has it sold again? Regards Dennis from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 10 23:38:28 1998 (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Re: Upon returning from SRG Steve - Best fishing story I've heard. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Upon returning from SRG Hi All, I wanted to share this with you earlier, but there was a lot of hubbubon the list when I got back from Arkansas. Shortly after my brother and I arrived at the house from three days offishing and talking rodmaking, my granddaughter approached me andasked;"Grampa will you take me fishing"? I leaned forward and said, "Honey Iwill take you anywhere you want to go". She immediately realized that nothing was going to happen right away, soshe stepped back from me and spread her arms to take in the whole roomand said, "If anybody wants to take me fishing, my car seat is in mydaddy's car". Naturally we all roared with laughter. She will be three next month. Iwonder if she thinks fishing is like shopping? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sun Oct 11 03:43:50 1998 (BST) Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! John,I am also in the yachting industry and so thought about a deck brightenertostart with such as TeakBrite - I don't sell it so there is NFI (no financialinterest). I discounted this because all the boats I have worked on theteak brightener has needed plenty of scrubbing along with it - obviouslynotpossible w/o removing the enamel from the sections.I am wondering about Oxalic acid as well - my old text books came up withthis but it is very difficult to find over here (UK).Hope we get an answer on this and help you out at the same timeTim.-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! At 08:10 PM 10/10/98 +0100, you wrote:I am working on an old cane sea rod where the rings had been whippedwithcopper wire. Over the years the staining has become quite bad.As I am not using the rod for its original use these satins are visible. Iknow that I am unlikely to totally remove them but it would be good toreduce them a little.I have used Hydrogen Peroxide to 'bleach' stains out of wood in the pastbut have never used it on cane.Has anyone else?Any thoughts on how to lessen the stains?Thanks in advanceTim. Attachment Converted: "C:\EUDORA\ATTACH\NastySta.htm" I would like to hear any ideas on this subject myself. I have had severalrods and I have one now with black stains from the guide feet and havebeenwondering if there is any safe way to bleach them out. I wouldexperimentto see if oxalic acid wood bleach or deck brightener works on thesestains,but this rod is too good to play with. John Channer from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sun Oct 11 03:48:35 1998 (BST) Subject: Re: Rod identification from the description of the label it sounds like it may be an AllcocksThey had an horizontal oval label with black writing on a gold background.However, the part with the sppincast reel doesn't sound familiar but thenI'm new to this.John Cooper - is this an Allcock variant??Tim.-----Original Message----- Subject: Rod identification I have an old cane rod I found in an attic 45 years ago that I wouldlike to identify. It is a 9 ft 3 pc with a red/pink reel seat, lookslike plastic. The ferrules and the rest of the hardware is chromeplated, but it doesn't look like brass, more a dull gray. The ferruleshave a rolled lip and look like they have been pinned and crimped on.The tip has intermediate wraps that are some shade of yellow. The onlyletters on the tiny piece of label left are "A" space "S" or "5" inblack letters on a gold background, just above the letters is whatappears to be a black spincast reel on a red background. The labelappears to have been egg shaped or possibly like a horizon.I don't thinkit's worth much and want to refinish it as I become more involved incane rod construction. Thanks in advance for any information. Skip from anglport@con2.com Sun Oct 11 06:58:02 1998 Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! Tim,There are "Wood Bleaching Kits" available here in paint stores and I thinkthe active ingredient is oxalic acid. You might be able to find what youneed that way if it's rare to find it alone. Good luck,Art At 09:41 AM 10/11/98 +0100, you wrote:John,I am also in the yachting industry and so thought about a deck brightenertostart with such as TeakBrite I am wondering about Oxalic acid as well - my old text books came upwiththis but it is very difficult to find over here (UK).Hope we get an answer on this and help you out at the same timeTim. from FlyTyr@southshore.com Sun Oct 11 07:04:06 1998 (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id HAA07207 for ;Sun, 11 Oct1998 07:05:39 - 0500 Subject: Re: Payne 204 About 9 years ago I was up in Vermont at REC rods and got to talking totheowner about bamboo rods. Sorry, I don't remember the name. He took me toa roomthat was loaded with Bamboo culms and machinery.He told me that was all of Jim Payne's tools and bamboo and showed me anapronthat he said was Jim's. At the time I did not appreciate what he wasshowing me.I had heard of Payne rods and had thought of building a bamboo rod afterseeingWayne put on a demo at the Book Fair in Pa. I asked if I could buy a culmand hesold me one for 20.00. After reading up on bamboo rods and seeing nameslikePayne I was wanting to do something special with that cane. I have notsplit ityet, will do after I get at least one rod built. After some medicalproblems, amove to Arkansas, building the necessary tools and a few other thingsover thepast 9 years I am ready to get started. I now have other cane to work withas aresult of the SRG.I had planned to build a Paul Young 6'3" Midge rod but I think I need alongerrod for the river I fish. The White in Arkansas is a big river and we getsomegood wind at times. The fish are pretty fair size and in current, a 4 wt ispretty light. I would like some suggestions and comments from the list.This canbe done off list, as not to take up unnecessary band width. I would alsolike toget some comments on a Payne taper that I can use for the culm that came from hisshop.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Chris Wohlford wrote: Dennis,Not sure of the history but Dave Holloman (sorry, original post hadincorrectname) does own the Payne Co. and resides in Sisters OR. Think he told methathe was near Eugene at one time and before that resided in Vermont? Doknowaside from new rods that he had quite a few rods on the bench that werein doingthe Payne metal working forever was still active & supplying parts tohim.The original Payne beveler (which is made out of wood) is on display inhislobby and is a neat piece of history. It's not in use anymore as Dave usesamore modern beveler but was told that it does still work and will cutstrips. Not familiar with Steve Blake. I see he also resides in Sisters, wonder ifheworks with Dave on projects or has his own thing going.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com dennis higham wrote: Don-Try Steve Blake, 808 South Pine, Sisters, OR 97759. 503-549- 0110.Steverepairs and restores rods for Len Codella, Marty Keane, etc. He's donetworepairs for me and did a great job, fast and very reasonable. If Stevedoesn't work you could also try Dwight Lyons, 7156 SE 118th Drive,Portland, OR 97226. 503-760-3933....lyons@teleport.com. Dwight'sanothermaster restorer.Chris... I thought Dave Holloman had bought the Payne Co. from REC andopened it outside Eugene, OR and then moved to Sisters. Has it soldagain? Regards Dennis from channer@hubwest.com Sun Oct 11 07:50:49 1998 (SMTPD32-4.02c) id A9FD83F00E0; Sun, 11 Oct 1998 06:52:13 MDT Subject: Re: Payne 204 At 07:07 AM 10/11/98 -0500, you wrote:About 9 years ago I was up in Vermont at REC rods and got to talking totheowner about bamboo rods. Sorry, I don't remember the name. He took meto aroomthat was loaded with Bamboo culms and machinery.He told me that was all of Jim Payne's tools and bamboo and showed meanapronthat he said was Jim's. At the time I did not appreciate what he wasshowing me.I had heard of Payne rods and had thought of building a bamboo rod afterseeingWayne put on a demo at the Book Fair in Pa. I asked if I could buy a culmand hesold me one for 20.00. After reading up on bamboo rods and seeing nameslikePayne I was wanting to do something special with that cane. I have notsplit ityet, will do after I get at least one rod built. After some medicalproblems, amove to Arkansas, building the necessary tools and a few other thingsoverthepast 9 years I am ready to get started. I now have other cane to workwithas aresult of the SRG.I had planned to build a Paul Young 6'3" Midge rod but I think I need alongerrod for the river I fish. The White in Arkansas is a big river and we getsomegood wind at times. The fish are pretty fair size and in current, a 4 wt ispretty light. I would like some suggestions and comments from the list.This canbe done off list, as not to take up unnecessary band width. I would alsolike toget some comments on a Payne taper that I can use for the culm thatcame from hisshop.Thanks,Tony FlyTyr@southshore.com Tony;The Dickerson 8' 5 wt. is a great casting rod. I haven't made a Payne taperthat size, yet, so I can't recommend one there. I have made the Midge, tho,and it is an exceptional rod, make yourself one when you get a chance, youwon't be sorry. As for fishing a big river with it, I don't think it wouldbe much of a problem, the one I made will throw a line farther than I cancontrol one and has enough backbone to handle most trout. I wish I hadn'tsold it, will have to make one for me as soon as I get a chance. John Channer from TSmithwick@aol.com Sun Oct 11 10:25:42 1998 Subject: RE: Mica Heat Strips In a message dated 10/5/98 3:05:24 PM, you wrote: Dave - Sorry to be so long answering this. I was at Martha's Vineyardgettingmy annual salt water flyfishing fix. This is how I built my oven. TheCalrodunits consist of a thin nichrome element, insulation , and an outer tube ofIncolloy 800. They can be straightened, and will end up about 6 feet long.Youcan use the temperature sensor, and the control from the oven . I builtmineinto a heavily insulated box 7 feet long and 6" square. I run on 120 volts. Ittakes about 10 minutes to warm up, and 10-12 minutes gives me a goodeven heattreat. It works fine, so I haven't changed it. If I wanted something moreelaborate at this point, I would look at fellow listmember Don Anderson'swellthought out design, which I believe was in the Planing Form some monthsago. from jfoster@gte.net Sun Oct 11 11:34:58 1998 Subject: This cannot be Thanks Harry, had a wonderful time WELL, you guys didn't do a very good job of keeping the list stablewhile Mike and I were off fishing...I just got back from my ca., nm.,ark.,co.,wy.,MONTANA,id,or.,ca. little jaunt and what do I find... Wayne and Darryl CAN'T leave AJ we do what we have time for, I know the list also appreciates yourefforts and advise.As for Terry. he hits the list every year, causes some kind of a rukkusand the flee's the scene... not very manly for a manly man, so i havelittle simpathy for his loss.. the most frustrating part of TA'sinvolvement is he has never given one word of advice,support, or otheraid to the beginers with honest questions. they dont need TA to sayfigure it out yourself..We have gotten thin skinned, the water must be too warm.In hope things return to normal jerry Chris, you rascal.. can we have your plans? from jfoster@gte.net Sun Oct 11 13:01:58 1998 Subject: Re: pressing nodes Hi Bill You might try an iron for heating the nodes, or for straightening but idon't think you'll get enough pressure to press nodes with this method.one must screw a vise as tight as one can to effect nodes, and thatdoesn't have a permanent effect in some cases.. regards jerry from jfoster@gte.net Sun Oct 11 13:04:04 1998 Subject: url http://home1.gte.net/jfoster/index.htm if you are looking for the archives.. jer from jkallo@midwest.net Sun Oct 11 14:41:05 1998 Subject: Re: pressing nodes At 11:03 AM 10/11/98 +0000, you wrote:Hi BillYou might try an iron for heating the nodes, or for straightening but idon't think you'll get enough pressure to press nodes with this method.one must screw a vise as tight as one can to effect nodes, and thatdoesn't have a permanent effect in some cases.. regards jerry Hey Jerry, I noticed that sometimes the ol' vice doesn't quite do the trick. Forexample I carefully straightened the nodes on all 12 rough strips, got good60* angles and popped the bound sections in the 1 1/2 iron pipe in whatwasmy first heat treating operation. After an interminable half hour oftorch-waving, I pulled the sections out only to find that EVERY SINGLENODElooked just like it did before I pressed them. I thought of ourconversation outside the fly shop in Mt. Home in which I was bragging thatI straighted a strip without scorching the nodes and to which yourespondedwith a foreboding (I know now) grin and a "the test comes when you heattreat em'". On another note, I found out today that I'll be spending next summerinEureka, so if you find your way up there we should try to wet a line. Ihear the Trinity Alps hold some pretty amazing summer streams. Youmentioned a few other spots when we talked and I have forgotten them all,so if you get a chance let me know what you consider "must fish in n. ca." Joe Joseph S. KalloDpt. of PhilosophySouthern Illinois University at Carbondale from jkallo@midwest.net Sun Oct 11 14:46:56 1998 Subject: sorry about that Sorry for the chat. That was intended for Jerry directly. Joe Joseph S. KalloDpt. of PhilosophySouthern Illinois University at Carbondale from sats@gte.net Sun Oct 11 15:01:45 1998 Subject: Re: The truth of Guide Spacing Russ, Your explanation is very understandable for me.I understood how to position the stripping guide especially by yournote.Thank you very much. Max, An old gentleman, I respected very much suggested 18 in.! from thestripperguide to the center of the reel. On shorter rods this spacing seems to beabout right. On longer rods I find it seems to be to close. It actuallyimpedes casting. on longer rods, I now extend it out to the 28in range. Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from ragnarig@integrityol.com Sun Oct 11 15:28:55 1998 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A7524460084; Sun, 11 Oct 1998 13:38:42 PDT Subject: Cork update OK Gang Here we go. I'm making that order next weekend, so if you want in on it,you'll need to send in your check (MO preferred, but no biggie; I trusty'all) by the weedend. And many thanks to those who sent theirs inalready.Sorry about my absence this past week but I am addicted to volunteeringandI guess we just have to put up with it :-) Just so everybody understands, this is a totally non-profit exercise,although I'm attempting to cut my out-of-pocket expenditure to theminimum,starving student that I am. I wish I could conduct this einsatz as Chris L.did his, but there you go. Also, it's gotten a little bigger than I hadfirst anticipated. The product is 1 1/8 in. cork rings, 1/4 in. hole, 1/2 in. thicknoess, $0.53each. Unless I hear differently, the amount on your check will be deducted$3.00 (unless your order is too big for that to cover) for shipping and therest will go for the above mentioned rings, figuring the 10% tax throughthemagic of al-gebra. If you want their pre-formed grips etc. go to theirwebsite ( http://www.corkgrips.com/email.html ) or catalog and figure itoutlike the rings, adding tax etc. and detail it in your accompanying letter tome. If it doesn't work out on my calculator I'll get ahold of you. Now, the idea behind this thing is to pool everybody's small exploratoryorders into one big economical one and either get a sample so as todetermine whether we wish, individually or collectively, to make bigordersin the future or to try another supplier or whatever. I make no guarantees with no preference toward myself or toward anyone else. I will simplymixthem up good and randomly count out the numbers ordered. If it looks likeaparticular person got an overwhelming number of duds, I will go nutstryingto adjust it all equitably, unless I'm too tired. Then I'll just swap andgive that person mine. Unless they're worse yet. Be advised that I will be informing the supplier as to the precise nature ofour enterprise, so we might get slightly better product than under normalconditions. But then, I think we know who gets their best stuff and wewillneed alot more money on a more regular basis than this order is likely togenerate. That gives me a profound idea but fills me with dread at the of trying to execute it. Might be worth talking about it though. Probablyhave to go visit the people in person, get them dates or something... Nah. To those who have no interest in this venture and resent my taking upbandwidth for it, I offer my humblest apologies, although we all benefit from such things from time to time; and one might keep in mind that alongmilitary career, complete with many sharp blows to the head, has mademesomewhat less responsive to pettiness and criticism than most. Davy Riggs11404 89th Ave. Ct. E.Puyallup, WA 98373 from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Sun Oct 11 16:25:56 1998 0500 Subject: Splicing sections for repair Friends,I'm trying to figure out how to splice two hexagonalsections to extend the broken tip and broken mid sections from an old rod. I've looked at Garrison's and Wayne'sbook, and still can't quite get it straight in my mind.(That's probably the fault of too much fun at the SRG) Idon't want to spend any more money than necessary, as thisrestoration business is NOT going to be a steady diet.Wouldn't have offered to do this one if it didn't belong toa good friend's grandfather. It just doesn't seem nearly assexy as building the entire rod to me.Any suggestions on how best to build a scarfing block Also, does anyone know where I can get some 1" corkrings like were used on inexpensive rods years ago. Thanks in advance,Harry from Canerods@aol.com Sun Oct 11 16:27:29 1998 Subject: Re: Rod identification In a message dated 10/10/98 5:04:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,sshorb@ozip.netwrites: Skip, This is all pure guessing - The decal might be for a trade rod brand and therefore not much help for silver. If the ferrules aren't serrated then the quality of the rod is inquestion. So look at the cane - is there a node spacing or just ramdom. Ifrandom, then again the quality is in question. The pinning of the ferulesmeans it's not a Granger, IMHO. Same thing if no node spacing pattern.Heddonused random nodes, but didn't crimp their ferrules. So Montague or H-I come to mind. If the female ferrules are bottle shaped (necked) then these two brandsjumpto the forefront. Both used Leonard-style ferrules on their better rods and"bottle" ferrules on the rest. Both used plastic reelseat spacers on theirrods too. Monty used NS ferrules for their better rods, some even hadserrations and were hand-welted and many were rolled-welted. Chromeand Nickelplating was often done too. Plated brass was used for the junk stuff. Thegoldlabel background with black letters "sounds" like a Montague label andMontague labels were oval in shape. So that's my best guess for maker. Don Burns from TSmithwick@aol.com Sun Oct 11 17:27:34 1998 Subject: Re: Splicing sections for repair In a message dated 10/11/98 9:27:34 PM, you wrote: Harry - It's pretty easy. All you need is to have matching 120* grooves inatapered block. I made mine by taking a maple stick and cutting a 60*chamferon one edge. Then I cut it into 4 lengths and glued them up into two blocks.On each block the grooves abut each other, producing the 120* angle. Theblocks are then joined with sliding dowels with the grooves facing eachother.So you now have a block with a groove in it's center. The top of the blockisthen bandsawed to the splice angle in such a way that the groove isintersected by the cut in the center of the block. Smooth up with a planeorbelt sander. I cut the angles with a jointer, but a hand plane is OK. Theangles don't need to be precise, as all the block needs to do is grab thesection. from Canerods@aol.com Sun Oct 11 17:39:26 1998 Subject: Re: Splicing sections for repair In a message dated 10/11/98 2:27:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,fbcwin@fsbnet.com writes: Harry, You'll lose a few inches from the rod if you don't slice in a new piece. Ifthe rod is a production rod you should be able to find a broken piece to useas a splice. The Garrison splice block works well. The only tricky thing to remember is to measure the section's O.D. at 2pointsand then match these two O.D.'s on the scarf piece. If the break is near oneend or the other, I discard the shorter piece and just scarf a new piece tolonger piece. Double scarfs (splicing in a new piece between the 2 brokenpieces) is much harder because you must end up with the correct finallength,with the single scarf you can cut to length after you finish the scarf. Remember also, that the "skinny" end is the broken end on one piece, whilethe"fat" end of the break is the broken end of the other piece. If you forgetandmeasure in the wrong direction on the new piece to be scarfed to the endthesection will be too thin and also short when you are finished and a lot ofsanding required to hide the scarf joint. (Don't ask - just don't go there) OBTW, I measure each flat-to-flat and average the 3 O.D.'s when measuringaproduction rod. Lot's of +/- "windage" on most of them. I then try to find asecond piece that has the same average, or better yet, the same 3 O.D.'sandmatch O.D. to O.D. as much as possible. Remember measure twice and cutonce. Don Burns from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Sun Oct 11 19:21:50 1998 ; Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:21:41 +1200 Subject: Re: Splicing sections for repair Harry, There is a good explanation in Jack Howells book . I have not tried it , butcould understand it ( the pictures help ) whereas I was in a similarposition as you after reading Garrison . It is very similar to Tom's explanation , but with pics , and also explainshow to do the actual join. Iank At 06:26 PM 11/10/98 EDT, you wrote: In a message dated 10/11/98 9:27:34 PM, you wrote: Harry - It's pretty easy. All you need is to have matching 120* grooves inatapered block. I made mine by taking a maple stick and cutting a 60*chamferon one edge. Then I cut it into 4 lengths and glued them up into twoblocks.On each block the grooves abut each other, producing the 120* angle. Theblocks are then joined with sliding dowels with the grooves facing eachother.So you now have a block with a groove in it's center. The top of the blockisthen bandsawed to the splice angle in such a way that the groove isintersected by the cut in the center of the block. Smooth up with a planeorbelt sander. I cut the angles with a jointer, but a hand plane is OK. Theangles don't need to be precise, as all the block needs to do is grab thesection. Ian Kearney phone 0064 03 5445556104 Champion Road Fax 0064 03 5440374Richmond New Zealand email inak@ts.co.nz from sshorb@ozip.net Sun Oct 11 20:06:44 1998 (Post.Office MTA v3.5.2 release 221 ID# 0-55785U1000L100S0V35)with ESMTP id net for ;Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:06:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Rod identification Don; I went back and looked very closely at the rod again and based on yourreasoning conclude it is very likely a junk Montigue, but it does havethe advantage that it is not broken and will be good for gainingexperience on refinishing. Thanks for your help. Skip from jaquin@netsync.net Sun Oct 11 20:30:46 1998 quartz.netsync.net (8.8.5/8.6.12) with SMTP id VAA28329 for; Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:30:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Nasty Stains! Art Port wrote: Tim,There are "Wood Bleaching Kits" available here in paint stores and I thinkthe active ingredient is oxalic acid. You might be able to find what youneed that way if it's rare to find it alone. Good luck,Art At 09:41 AM 10/11/98 +0100, you wrote:John,I am also in the yachting industry and so thought about a deckbrightener tostart with such as TeakBriteI am wondering about Oxalic acid as well - my old text books came upwiththis but it is very difficult to find over here (UK).Hope we get an answer on this and help you out at the same timeTim. this maybe far fetched thougth but you may find oxalic acid in yourlocal pharmacy. I think it is the active ingrdient in so wart removers. from ddodd@hrfn.net Sun Oct 11 20:53:06 1998 (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id VAA12290 for ;Sun, 11 Oct1998 21:54:12 -0400 Subject: Re: Rod identification Skip, Just read your note on Montigue Rod. What is a short history ofMontigue?I bought a cane rod butt the other day with a scared decal that has Utica,NYas location of manufacturer. It is inscribed "Tonkin Cane" and 180* out itis labeled "Tonka Queen" Any ideas of what I have? Dave