from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Mon Feb 1 00:32:23 1999 Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:29:48 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: Powell rods The most elastic shellac is made by mixing the flakes with gum turpentinerather than mineral turpentine. Tony On Sun, 31 Jan 1999, J. C. Zimny wrote: I don't know which Powell you mean. But, I have it from Walton and Pres both that the finest white shellac was used. The linseed oil was just alubricant for theapplication of the shellac. Pure, de- waxed blonde shellac is highly elasticand waterresistant. It should provide about the same vapor barrier as most non-epoxy varnish. Alongwith a coat of wax, it might even be marginally better. Of course, unlikeoil/resin mixtures,it does not have much solvent resistance.I don't know what E. C. used.John Z -----Original Message-----From: A.J.Thramer [SMTP:thramer@presys.com]Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 10:07 PM Subject: Powell rods Were(are) not many Powell rods finished with linseed oil? If, as thedata suggests linseed oil is WORSE than NO finish at all are not thevast majority of Powell rods junky noodles? When data does not corellate with obsevation it makes me want to dig alittle deeper for accurate data.A.J.Thramer /***********************************************************************/Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html Always fish with a bamboo rod, drink good wine and sail.Life is too short. /***********************************************************************/ from jfoster@gte.net Mon Feb 1 01:14:40 1999 Subject: archives mac-creator="4D4F5353" Chris think i got garrison straight??? andy royer's address is up to date asis GEM's new homepage jer from saltwein@swbell.net Mon Feb 1 06:35:19 1999 GAA16452 Subject: Re: Carnauba Larry Blan wrote: To go along with the current finish thread, thought I'd throw this out.Zymol has a pretty fair section on carnauba, if anyone is interested (juststay clear of the $1200.00 wax). Ran across this when I had to purchaseoneof their products recently for a show vehicle. It did have a better shineand depth of finish than the products we normally use. No interest, etc. http://www.zymol.com/tech.htm Larry, Are you currently using one of these waxes on your rods? What do youthink of it? Which one are you using? What is the difference in the twoprice schedules? TIA. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from jjohnso4@bellsouth.net Mon Feb 1 07:17:46 1999 IAA12988 Subject: Re: filler for realseats prior to coating with poly At 05:12 PM 1/31/99 EST, Dave LeClair wrote: If some of the crevasses are too large for this type offinishing, fill the crevasses with a good super glue and spraythe glue with an accelerator to harden the glue. Sand the gluedown and dip in your polyurethane as you normally do. The "gel" type super glues also make a good filler for small imperfectionsin wood. Later,Johnny----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA from hhholland@erols.com Mon Feb 1 07:30:38 1999 Subject: Re: Reel Seat Wood Insert Try http://www.waterloowood.com/wssi/Hank H. -----Original Message----- Subject: Reel Seat Wood Insert Guys/Gals, A company sells acrylic impregnated wood inserts for reel seats. Good stuff - got some last month. http://www.waterloowood/wssi/ No commercial interest to me etc. Don from harry37@epix.net Mon Feb 1 08:12:20 1999 SMTP id JAA09587; Subject: Re: filler for realseats prior to coating with poly Johnny Johnson wrote: At 05:12 PM 1/31/99 EST, Dave LeClair wrote: If some of the crevasses are too large for this type offinishing, fill the crevasses with a good super glue and spraythe glue with an accelerator to harden the glue. Sand the gluedown and dip in your polyurethane as you normally do. The "gel" type super glues also make a good filler for smallimperfectionsin wood. Later,Johnny----------------------------------------------Johnny JohnsonLilburn, GA Epoxies fill little worm holes and other imperfections nicely and willmachine just like the wood--in dark woods you can't spot the differenceunless you're looking for it. GregGreg from jmulvey@mis1.ci.newton.ma.us Mon Feb 1 08:24:10 1999 (envelope- from jmulvey@mis1.ci.newton.ma.us) (envelope- from jmulvey@mis1.ci.newton.ma.us) 1.21);1 Feb 99 09:25:48 EST EST Subject: Rod Marking Hello All, Just rec. BBFR in the mail. The first letter from a gentleman inSweden made some points that I thought were very interesting. Henotes that when using someone else's taper on your rod, some type ofnotation could be mentioned to give credit where credit is due. SinceI have not built my first bamboo from scratch yet, I was wondering... Does anybody do this? What info do you supply on the rod? Are youconsistent with every piece you build? I have refinished a few rods,trying to keep them in original condition. Now suppose I did such anice job (I said suppose!) that no one could tell it was refinished. In theory, I could put it on the market as a Mint/Unfished rod formuch more $$$ than it is really worth. Am I obligated to make alittle notation on the rod to mention "Refinished by J. Mulvey, Jan.1999" or should I leave it as is? How about turning a 3 pc 9 wtMontague into a 2 pc 5 wt banty. Now there are no markings. Do I havethe right to mark this as I wish? I think not! With the year 2000 onthe horizon, does anyone mark their rods with the date? Two digits orfour? Come the next century, when your creations are 100 years old,some folks will be wondering if your beauty was created in 1899 or1999. So... How do you mark your rods? On a side note, concerning that excellent magazine, I had an idea thatsomeone may want to pass on to the Honorable Mr Metcalfe. How about acenterfold? A three page fold out of someones handiwork up close andpersonal. The little 2"x3" photos of rods do no justice at all! Have a great day,Joe MulveyJoseph Mulvey Network Engineer Information Technology Department City Of Newton, MA 1000 Commonwealth Avenue Newton Centre, MA 02459 Phone 617-552-7085 Fax 617-552-7036 from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon Feb 1 08:28:06 1999 GAA29154; (5.5.2407.0) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,"'jczimny@dol.net'" Subject: RE: Powell rods I made a varnish, for a mandolin I made, out of seedlac and poppy oil and acouple of otherresins. Seedlac contains wax and the poppy oil made it pretty elastic. It'sbeen on 20 yearsnow and is real tough and shows no crazing whats so ever. The secretingredient that I usedwas propolis, the stuff honey bees glue their hives together with and inthe condition thatit comes out of the hive you have to chisel it off with a cold chisel. ----------From: J. C. Zimny[SMTP:jczimny@dol.net] Sent: Sunday, January 31, 1999 6:03 PM Subject: RE: Powell rods I don't know which Powell you mean. But, I have it from Walton and Presboth that thefinest white shellac was used. The linseed oil was just a lubricant for theapplication ofthe shellac. Pure, de-waxed blonde shellac is highly elastic and waterresistant. It shouldprovide about the same vapor barrier as most non-epoxy varnish. Alongwith a coat of wax, itmight even be marginally better. Of course, unlike oil/resin mixtures, itdoes not have muchsolvent resistance.I don't know what E. C. used.John Z -----Original Message-----From: A.J.Thramer [SMTP:thramer@presys.com]Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 10:07 PM Subject: Powell rods Were(are) not many Powell rods finished with linseed oil? If, as thedata suggests linseed oil is WORSE than NO finish at all are not thevast majority of Powell rods junky noodles? When data does not corellate with obsevation it makes me want to dig alittle deeper for accurate data.A.J.Thramer from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon Feb 1 08:31:24 1999 (5.5.2407.0) Subject: RE: archives Andy just left for China to buy a new shipment of cane ----------From: Jerry Foster[SMTP:jfoster@gte.net] Sent: Sunday, January 31, 1999 11:14 PM Subject: archives Chris think i got garrison straight??? andy royer's address is up to date asis GEM's new homepage jer from rodgers@jessie.nor.nuwc.navy.mil Mon Feb 1 08:38:24 1999 8.6/SMI-SVR4) Subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen Planes Bob, I am interested in acquiring one of the L-N 9 1/2 planes. I do have onequestion though. Doesn't the L-N 9 1/2 plane have an adjustable slot in thesole? Im I right to assume from you email that this version will have asmaller adjustable slot than the average L-N 9 1/2? thanks,Dan klAt 06:17 PM 1/29/99, Robert Milardo wrote:I am working on a deal with L-N to purchase a bunch of 9 1/2 planes witha.005 slot milled into the sole, and 2 blades. The cost will be about$25.00 off retail, or a total of $175.00 plus S&S. (Retail is $150 for theplane, $25.00 for the extra blade, and $25.00 for the milled slot. S&S isshipping and a wee bit of stout.) I think these are the finest planesavailable, but then not everyone needs the finest. If you are unfamiliarwith the details, ck out their web site at lie-nielsen.com. If you'reinterested let me know within a week or so. This will happen fast. (Sorrycan't ship outside US.) --Bob.Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.17 Merrill Hall Univ. of MaineOrono, ME 04469207 581-3128 from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Mon Feb 1 08:48:49 1999 (5.5.2407.0) Stopped over at Daryll Whiteheads while I was on vacation and saw thenew Bellinger binderand it was absolutely amazing. Daryll glued and bound up a tip for a 7'6"rod and it came outalmost arrow straight. I can see why he retired his millward binder. Alsotook a look at hisnew agate guides, very beautiful stuff. He told me that Andy Royer wasleaving for china thisweek to hand select a new shipment of cane. I have no bonding with eitherone of them exceptas friends and fellow rod makers. from jefffly@choice.net Mon Feb 1 08:55:11 1999 JAA06495; Subject: Re: Rod Marking Joe, you bring up several interesting points, but the one that concerns memost is that we haven't yet looked at our rods as having the Y2K bug. With your networking skills, can you recommend a program to rid thisbug? Joe wrote: With the year 2000 onthe horizon, does anyone mark their rods with the date? Two digits orfour? Come the next century, when your creations are 100 years old,some folks will be wondering if your beauty was created in 1899 or1999. So... How do you mark your rods? Joseph MulveyNetwork EngineerInformation Technology DepartmentCity Of Newton, MA1000 Commonwealth AvenueNewton Centre, MA 02459Phone 617-552-7085Fax 617-552-7036 from jmulvey@mis1.ci.newton.ma.us Mon Feb 1 08:59:28 1999 (envelope- from jmulvey@mis1.ci.newton.ma.us) 1.21);1 Feb 99 10:01:03 EST EST Subject: Re: Rod Marking Joe, you bring up several interesting points, but the one that concernsmemost is that we haven't yet looked at our rods as having the Y2K bug. With your networking skills, can you recommend a program to rid thisbug?Thank you. The first step in Y2K resolution is testing. So send me your rods and I will verifiy that they work!JoeJoseph Mulvey Network Engineer Information Technology Department City Of Newton, MA 1000 Commonwealth Avenue Newton Centre, MA 02459 Phone 617-552- 7085 Fax 617-552-7036 from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Mon Feb 1 09:12:29 1999 Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:10:47 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: Rod Marking Joe, I think you should always give credit to the designer on the rod. Thedesigner created the rod's soul after all, making the body is easy.My only concern is what the designer would think of the effort. Being in the computer game you'd understand it's a bit like obtainingsource code and altering it *just a little* bit. There comes a point whereyou may depart from the original enough to say it's yours but a few snipshere and there dosn't alter ownership even if it's only a case ofacknowlagement. Regarding dating the rod. If you make it too easy for collectors theywouldn't have as much fun. Let them worry about it. Tony On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Joe Mulvey wrote: Hello All, Just rec. BBFR in the mail. The first letter from a gentleman inSweden made some points that I thought were very interesting. Henotes that when using someone else's taper on your rod, some type ofnotation could be mentioned to give credit where credit is due. SinceI have not built my first bamboo from scratch yet, I was wondering... Does anybody do this? What info do you supply on the rod? Are youconsistent with every piece you build? I have refinished a few rods, /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from BThoman@neonsoft.com Mon Feb 1 09:33:10 1999 Subject: RE: Carnauba I've used carnauba wax with Wayne's bees wax paste and it works great. Thetrouble is that it's much harder than bees wax and harder to mix. I foundsome in a powdered form at Highland Hardware and I think Woodcraft alsocarries it. The powdered wax mixes quite easily per Wayne's instructions. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 -----Original Message-----From: Larry Blan [SMTP:lblan@provide.net]Sent: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:57 PM Subject: Carnauba To go along with the current finish thread, thought I'd throw this out.Zymol has a pretty fair section on carnauba, if anyone is interested (juststay clear of the $1200.00 wax). Ran across this when I had to purchaseoneof their products recently for a show vehicle. It did have a better shineand depth of finish than the products we normally use. No interest, etc. http://www.zymol.com/tech.htm from rrappe@wirelessnorth.com Mon Feb 1 09:42:14 1999 Joe Mulvey Subject: RE: Rod Marking Just back into rod making and restoration after 20 years, I recently had aseries of e-mails with Mike Sinclair on this topic and got comments frommany who got copied. There seems to be a general consensus that it is oktocredit the originator so long as the rod is wrapped and marked in such awaythat a future unscrupulous dealer can't pass the rod off as an original.I'm still struggling with just how to accomplish it without writing anovelon the shaft though. Mike, are you reading this? I re-marked those 4 Phillipson blanks alongthese lines: 7'-4wt. "Phillipson Impreg. blank"/Orvis ferrule #89 by Rappe'. A couple of my scratch rods with tapers from the Garrison/Charmichaelbook from 20 years ago say: "Modified 212E taper #XX by Rappe' " figuringeveryone in the know would recognize the Garrison number without theneed touse the name. Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Rod Marking Joe, I think you should always give credit to the designer on the rod. Thedesigner created the rod's soul after all, making the body is easy.My only concern is what the designer would think of the effort. Being in the computer game you'd understand it's a bit like obtainingsource code and altering it *just a little* bit. There comes a point whereyou may depart from the original enough to say it's yours but a few snipshere and there dosn't alter ownership even if it's only a case ofacknowlagement. Regarding dating the rod. If you make it too easy for collectors theywouldn't have as much fun. Let them worry about it. Tony On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Joe Mulvey wrote: Hello All, Just rec. BBFR in the mail. The first letter from a gentleman inSweden made some points that I thought were very interesting. Henotes that when using someone else's taper on your rod, some type ofnotation could be mentioned to give credit where credit is due. SinceI have not built my first bamboo from scratch yet, I was wondering... Does anybody do this? What info do you supply on the rod? Are youconsistent with every piece you build? I have refinished a few rods, /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from rrappe@wirelessnorth.com Mon Feb 1 09:53:51 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Carnauba I have not read much more than the headers on this thread, but offer mytwocents. I came to rodmaking from restoring old double shotguns, and beganspray finishing my rods with Birchwood Casey tru-oil in the 1970s. Of the86 rods I made before putting away the planing form, not one to myknowledgehas ever needed a refinish to date. The two that I kept and have usedmyself over the years look just the same as they did 25 years ago. I haveno idea what Tru-oil really is made up of, but it has stood the test of timeand I see no reason to change. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Carnauba I've used carnauba wax with Wayne's bees wax paste and it works great. Thetrouble is that it's much harder than bees wax and harder to mix. I foundsome in a powdered form at Highland Hardware and I think Woodcraft alsocarries it. The powdered wax mixes quite easily per Wayne's instructions. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 -----Original Message-----From: Larry Blan [SMTP:lblan@provide.net]Sent: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:57 PM Subject: Carnauba To go along with the current finish thread, thought I'd throw this out.Zymol has a pretty fair section on carnauba, if anyone is interested (juststay clear of the $1200.00 wax). Ran across this when I had to purchaseoneof their products recently for a show vehicle. It did have a better shineand depth of finish than the products we normally use. No interest, etc. http://www.zymol.com/tech.htm from DBURRILL@TELEHUB.com Mon Feb 1 10:05:14 1999 Subject: David Riggs List,Has anyone heard from David Riggs lately? I haven't seen a post from him in quite a while, and he hasn't answered the last couplee-mails I've sent him. from RMargiotta@aol.com Mon Feb 1 10:45:31 1999 Subject: Re: Carnauba Tru-oil is a polymerized linseed oil, which means it's been heated veryhighwithout oxygen. Something happens chemically that allows the stuff todryhard and glossy. I believe the resulting product is thinned with mineralspirits and then called "Tru-Oil". It's supposed to offer far greaterprotection than regular linseed oil since it dries hard, but I don't knowhowit compares to varnishes. How many coats did you use? My guess is that4+ isneeded to properly build up the finish. There's also supposed to be polymerized tung oil products on the market,but Ihaven't seen any. from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon Feb 1 10:53:37 1999 BThoman@neonsoft.com, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Tru-Oil List,I went down in my gun shop and got a bottle of Tru-Oil to see what it saysitis. Here is the description from the side of the bottle. "Tru-Oil is the professionals choice for gunstock finishing. It's uniqueblend of linseed oil and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yelloworcrack with age. for a hand rubbed, satin lustre, simply buff with steelwoolor rubbing compound and apply BirchWood Casey's Stock Sheen &conditioner orGunstock Wax. Tru-Oil is also the ideal finish for wood furniture." Nowfromsmelling this stuff I can smell the linseed oil and I would imagine that italso has some tung oil and Japan driers in it. I use this on guns that willsee the eliments a lot such as hunting guns, the ones that are just targetshooters and wall hangers get straight linseed oil finishes. In years past Iused linseed oil as a first coat on bamboo rods but i finished over thiswithvarnish. I will try Tru-Oil on a clunker rod I am redoing to fish steelheadwith and see how it holds up and then I will give you guys a report on it. Bret A side note here. Did manyone get the rod tapers I posted on a spinning rod and a Leonard rod Iposted within the lats week and a half???????? from Grhghlndr@aol.com Mon Feb 1 11:07:42 1999 Subject: Fwd: 7'6" bamboo spinning rod by Bernard Hills boundary="part0_917888799_boundary" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_917888799_boundary --part0_917888799_boundary RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: 7'6" bamboo spinning rod by Bernard Hills List,I had so many inquiries on this rod I decided to post it to the list. Bernardmade this rod for my brother in 1979. Tip section is 51" long butt sectionis39' long.0'= .103, 5'= .136, 10"= .136, 15'= .154, 20"= .172, 25"= .184, 30"= .196,35'= .216, 40"= .229, 45"= .239, 50'= .254, 55'= .269, 60'= .271, 65'= .284, 70"= .312, 75'= .327, 80"=.327, 85'= .327, 90"= .327. Bernard put on single footceramicguides on this rod and here is the spacing he used. Tip 0", 4.5 ", 10.5',17.5', 25.25", 33.25", 42.125", 53.5', 63". I hope this is what you guyswerelooking for it is a nice medium action rod.Bret --part0_917888799_boundary-- from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Mon Feb 1 11:13:52 1999 1999 09:15:23 PST Subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen Planes Bob: Pardon a question from a beginner, but what's the advantage of asmaller slot in the sole of the 9 1/2? I assumed that the standardL-N has an adjustable sole, and the modification would only reduce theslot size? Since I'm interested in a L-N plane, I might be acandidate for the modified one. Thanks. Jeff _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from stuart.tod@virgin.net Mon Feb 1 11:23:07 1999 (InterMail v4.00.03.01 201-229-104-101) with SMTP Mon, 1 Feb 1999 17:21:57 +0000 Subject: Re: Rod Marking Jeff Arnold wrote: Joe, you bring up several interesting points, but the one that concernsmemost is that we haven't yet looked at our rods as having the Y2K bug. With your networking skills, can you recommend a program to rid thisbug? Joe wrote: With the year 2000 onthe horizon, does anyone mark their rods with the date? Two digits orfour? Come the next century, when your creations are 100 years old,some folks will be wondering if your beauty was created in 1899 or1999. So... How do you mark your rods? Joseph MulveyNetwork EngineerInformation Technology DepartmentCity Of Newton, MA1000 Commonwealth AvenueNewton Centre, MA 02459Phone 617-552-7085Fax 617-552-7036 All my rods next year will be dated 'MM'.....what Y2K bug?Stuart from Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Mon Feb 1 11:25:23 1999 1999 17:23:54 UT 16-1998)) id8625670B.005F7784 ; Mon, 1 Feb 1999 11:22:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen Planes Forgive my jumping in - are people getting the adjustable mouth mixed upwiththe longitudinal slot a few thousandths deep that many folks findadvantageous? Best regards,-Ed Estlow (Jeff Anonymous) rambo2_98@yahoo.com on 02/01/99 11:15:23 AM Subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen Planes Bob: Pardon a question from a beginner, but what's the advantage of asmaller slot in the sole of the 9 1/2? I assumed that the standardL-N has an adjustable sole, and the modification would only reduce theslot size? Since I'm interested in a L-N plane, I might be acandidate for the modified one. Thanks. Jeff _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Mon Feb 1 11:33:22 1999 via NOTES Subject: new planes What is the model number of the Stanley plane currently being sold that issimilar to the old9 1/2s? Thanks...Kev from HARMS1@prodigy.net Mon Feb 1 15:07:31 1999 ext.prodigy.net QAA104586;Mon, 1 Feb 1999 16:07:19 -0500 "'BThoman@neonsoft.com'" , Subject: Re: Carnauba =_NextPart_000_01BE4DFC.D93B6BC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4DFC.D93B6BC0 Rick,My understanding is that Birchwood Casey's "Tru-Oil" is a linseed oil basethat has polymers, resins and dryers added. It really is wonderful stuffon gunstocks, but I haven't tried it on rods. (No interest in theproduct.) Cheers, Bill ----------From: Rick RappÄ Subject: RE: CarnaubaDate: Monday, February 01, 1999 7:50 AM I have not read much more than the headers on this thread, but offer mytwocents. I came to rodmaking from restoring old double shotguns, andbeganspray finishing my rods with Birchwood Casey tru-oil in the 1970s. Ofthe86 rods I made before putting away the planing form, not one to myknowledgehas ever needed a refinish to date. The two that I kept and have usedmyself over the years look just the same as they did 25 years ago. Ihaveno idea what Tru-oil really is made up of, but it has stood the test oftimeand I see no reason to change. -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 9:30 AM Subject: RE: Carnauba I've used carnauba wax with Wayne's bees wax paste and it works great. Thetrouble is that it's much harder than bees wax and harder to mix. Ifoundsome in a powdered form at Highland Hardware and I think Woodcraftalsocarries it. The powdered wax mixes quite easily per Wayne'sinstructions. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 -----Original Message-----From: Larry Blan [SMTP:lblan@provide.net]Sent: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:57 PM Subject: Carnauba To go along with the current finish thread, thought I'd throw this out.Zymol has a pretty fair section on carnauba, if anyone is interested(juststay clear of the $1200.00 wax). Ran across this when I had topurchaseoneof their products recently for a show vehicle. It did have a bettershineand depth of finish than the products we normally use. No interest,etc. http://www.zymol.com/tech.htm------ =_NextPart_000_01BE4DFC.D93B6BC0 Rick,My understandingis = =spray finishing my rods with Birchwood Casey tru-oil in the 1970s. = no idea what Tru-oil really is made up of, but it has stood the test of = = = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4DFC.D93B6BC0-- from HARMS1@prodigy.net Mon Feb 1 15:32:20 1999 ext.prodigy.net QAA93372;Mon, 1 Feb 1999 16:32:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Powell rods =_NextPart_000_01BE4E00.52888DC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E00.52888DC0 Reed, Yup, you're right about the linseed oil tradition. The particularapplication over the centuries was always a combination of various "secret" ingredientsandpreparations. "Stand oil," as you point out, was the most common initialpreparation. Pure, raw linseed oil was probably never used, as it neverdries and only gathers dirt. With resins, waxes, turps and dryers added,however, the resulting mixture indeed offers some protection. Gunsmithshave stayed with that finish, as you say, because nothing can equal it inbeauty, and because with a simple rub-out and re-application, the surfaceis again as good as new. Moreover, among those who have been able toafford the very finest guns, there has also been the wherewithal to keepthese in the finest repair. I wonder how practical this would be, though, with the frequent and harduse we give our fly rods. As you would not finish a rod with pure linseedoil, I'd be willing to bet nearly any amount that Powell did not either. It just wouldn't make any sense. While their finish was called linseedoil, it just couldn't have been the pure application. Cheers, Bill ---------- Subject: Re: Powell rods Bill, In all probablility the makers of fine double guns were not usinglinseed oil as we usually see it, but rather "stand oil". Stand oil waspopular among wood workers last century because they knew that the"foots"in linseed oil never oxidized. To prepare stand oil simply put pure linseedoil in a tall glass jar in the sunlight. Wait six months or a year and thensiphon off the clear oil into another container -- that is your stand oil.It really drys. Actually, there were many oil, gums and resins available towoodworkers; linseed oil was not the only game in town. I used to have acollection of 17th-19th century finishing techniques (lost it in a move),which included milk waxes, spirit varnishes, etc.; plenty to choose from.Penetrating oils have a certain ease of repair, so they are perfect forgunstocks. After a coat of wax, you're all set. It may be true that modern "boiled linseed oil" with its additives anddryers is hygroscopic; I would be interested in their test results usingstand oil, multiple coats applied hot. Best regards, Reed P.S. - I wouldn't use just oil on a rod. Oil-varnish is good tho, IMHO.(And then wax.) WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Perhaps our "observations" are not actually showing us what we thinktheyare showing us. The simple, irrefutable fact is that linseed oil truly ISthe poorest protective finish you could choose. That fact notwithstanding,the very finest gunmakers in England have chosen, for over two hundredyears, to use linseed oil (and some dryers) in finishing stocks and forendson all their best guns. But why? Shall we suppose those gunmakers have always known something the restofthe world does not know? Linseed oil has been used because, for over a hundred years, it was "theonly game in town," and because it has always produced absolutelygorgeousresults on fine woods. Driven by big-money and the accompanyingsnob-appeal, linseed oil came to be regarded as the only "acceptable" finish on expensive guns. But it was never because the finish offered goodprotection. Instead, it was because that, simply, was the tradition. And,I'm sorry, but that's what we're "observing." Mistrust the data, if youcan find a good basis, but don't do so because you think you are"observing" something. As to the Powell rods in question, what we may be observing is thatalthough linseed oil doesn't offer NEARLY the protection that almost ANYother finish can provine, nevertheless, it may still be good enough to keepa good rod from becoming " a junky noodle." So, although linseed oil maynot harm a rod, it isn't going to help it much either. It's just not thecase that the data doesn't correlate with the observation. Rather, it'sthat you're probably not seeing what you think you're seeing. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E00.52888DC0 Reed,Yup, you're = over the centuries was always a combination of various = was probably never used, as it never dries and only gathers dirt. = = =that finish, as you say, because nothing can equal it in beauty, and =because with a simple rub-out and re-application, the surface is again = =the very finest guns, there has also been the wherewithal to keep these = would be, though, with the frequent and hard use we give our fly rods. = willing to bet nearly any amount that Powell did not either. = was called linseed oil, it just couldn't have been the pure = =31, 1999 6:05 PMBill, = were not using linseed oil as we usually see it, but rather "stand =oil". Stand oil was popular among wood workers last century because=they knew that the "foots" in linseed oil never oxidized. To =prepare stand oil simply put pure linseed oil in a tall glass jar in the = oil into another container -- that is your stand oil. It really drys. = available to woodworkers; linseed oil was not the only game in town. I =used to have a collection of 17th-19th century finishing techniques =(lost it in a move), which included milk waxes, spirit varnishes, etc.; =plenty to choose from. Penetrating oils have a certain ease of repair, =so they are perfect for gunstocks. After a coat of wax, you're all set. = oil" with its additives and dryers is hygroscopic; I would be =interested in their test results using stand oil, multiple coats applied =hot. Best regards, Reed P.S. - I wouldn't use just oil on a =rod. Oil-varnish is good tho, IMHO. (And then wax.) WILLIAM A HARMS =wrote: = =irrefutable fact is that linseed oil truly IS the poorest protective = finest gunmakers in England have chosen, for over two hundred years, to =use linseed oil (and some dryers) in finishing stocks and forends on all = something =the rest of the world does not know? Linseed oil has been used because, for over a hundred years, = = =the data, if you can find a good basis, but don't do so because you = = may be observing is that although linseed oil doesn't offer NEARLY the =protection that almost ANY other finish can provine, nevertheless, it =may still be good enough to keep a good rod from becoming " a junky= it isn't going to help it much either. It's just not the case that the =data doesn't correlate with the observation. Rather, it's that you're =probably not seeing what you think you're seeing. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E00.52888DC0-- from thramer@presys.com Mon Feb 1 15:42:39 1999 Subject: Noodle Rods As usual lots of theory,BUT no one has answered the question of whyPowell rods are not noodlesA.J. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Feb 1 16:10:46 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, Subject: RE: Noodle Rods Weren't Powell rods laminated with strips of cedar? Perhaps that hadsomething to do with their lack of noodleness. Just an idea. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Noodle Rods As usual lots of theory,BUT no one has answered the question of whyPowell rods are not noodlesA.J. from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Mon Feb 1 18:39:53 1999 smtp.clarityconnect.comwith ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Mon, 1 Feb 199919:39:55-0500 (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2); Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:02:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Rod Marking Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Seeing as I have only made rods from other makers tapers I have made it ahabit of indicating the taper and maker. On one flat it will say "maker -Jon Lintvet," and on another "taper - John Zimny." I definitely agreecredit should be given. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- Subject: Rod Marking Hello All, Just rec. BBFR in the mail. The first letter from a gentleman inSweden made some points that I thought were very interesting. Henotes that when using someone else's taper on your rod, some type ofnotation could be mentioned to give credit where credit is due. SinceI have not built my first bamboo from scratch yet, I was wondering...Does anybody do this? What info do you supply on the rod? Are youconsistent with every piece you build? I have refinished a few rods,trying to keep them in original condition. Now suppose I did such anice job (I said suppose!) that no one could tell it was refinished.In theory, I could put it on the market as a Mint/Unfished rod formuch more $$$ than it is really worth. Am I obligated to make alittle notation on the rod to mention "Refinished by J. Mulvey, Jan.1999" or should I leave it as is? How about turning a 3 pc 9 wtMontague into a 2 pc 5 wt banty. Now there are no markings. Do I havethe right to mark this as I wish? I think not! With the year 2000 onthe horizon, does anyone mark their rods with the date? Two digits orfour? Come the next century, when your creations are 100 years old,some folks will be wondering if your beauty was created in 1899 or1999. So... How do you mark your rods? On a side note, concerning that excellent magazine, I had an idea thatsomeone may want to pass on to the Honorable Mr Metcalfe. How about acenterfold? A three page fold out of someones handiwork up close andpersonal. The little 2"x3" photos of rods do no justice at all! Have a great day,Joe MulveyJoseph MulveyNetwork EngineerInformation Technology DepartmentCity Of Newton, MA1000 Commonwealth AvenueNewton Centre, MA 02459Phone 617-552-7085Fax 617-552-7036 from jaquin@netsync.net Mon Feb 1 19:23:08 1999 quartz.netsync.net(8.9.2/8.6.12) with SMTP id UAA27229; Mon, 1 Feb 1999 20:22:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Carnauba Larry Blan wrote: To go along with the current finish thread, thought I'd throw this out.Zymol has a pretty fair section on carnauba, if anyone is interested (juststay clear of the $1200.00 wax). Ran across this when I had to purchaseoneof their products recently for a show vehicle. It did have a better shineand depth of finish than the products we normally use. No interest, etc. http://www.zymol.com/tech.htmhi larry, what form is the carnuba wax in, and how is it used on therods? i may have ready accesso carnuba wax in powdered form. tia jerry from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Mon Feb 1 19:23:41 1999 Tue, 2 Feb 1999 09:23:09 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: David Riggs On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Burrill, Dean wrote: List,Has anyone heard from David Riggs lately? I haven't seen a post from him in quite a while, and he hasn't answered the last couplee-mails I've sent him. I've done the same, he seems to have just disapeared. Hope he's OK. /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from moran@lincoln.midcoast.com Mon Feb 1 19:51:29 1999 (8.8.7/8.7.3) with SMTP id UAA11857; Mon, 1 Feb 1999 20:51:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Powell rods I spoke with Walton Powell at a fishing show about 5 years ago regardinghisfinishing technique. He told me he soaked the blanks in tung oil for sometime(?1 week), dried them and then applied shellac. I could dig throughmynotes to get the details if anyone is interested. Sean Moran----- Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Powell rods I don't know which Powell you mean. But, I have it from Walton and Presboth that the finest white shellac was used. The linseed oil was just alubricant for the application of the shellac. Pure, de-waxed blonde shellacis highly elastic and water resistant. It should provide about the samevapor barrier as most non-epoxy varnish. Along with a coat of wax, itmighteven be marginally better. Of course, unlike oil/resin mixtures, it does nothave much solvent resistance.I don't know what E. C. used.John Z -----Original Message-----From: A.J.Thramer [SMTP:thramer@presys.com]Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 10:07 PM Subject: Powell rods Were(are) not many Powell rods finished with linseed oil? If, as thedata suggests linseed oil is WORSE than NO finish at all are not thevast majority of Powell rods junky noodles? When data does not corellate with obsevation it makes me want to dig alittle deeper for accurate data.A.J.Thramer from HARMS1@prodigy.net Mon Feb 1 20:08:19 1999 ext.prodigy.net VAA31702;Mon, 1 Feb 1999 21:08:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Noodle Rods =_NextPart_000_01BE4E26.E1256280" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E26.E1256280 A.J.If you are still assuming that a plain ol' linseed oil finish is whatPowell used, and that it's plenty good -- and that all scientific evidenceabout linseed oil's poor protective qualities just runs contrary good ol'common sense, then you're probably not going to get any answers. Youcan'thear what you don't want to hear, you know. ----------From: A.J.Thramer Subject: Noodle RodsDate: Monday, February 01, 1999 1:51 PM As usual lots of theory,BUT no one has answered the question of whyPowell rods are not noodlesA.J.------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E26.E1256280 A.J.If you are still =assuming that a plain ol' linseed oil finish is what Powell used, and = linseed oil's poor protective qualities just runs contrary good ol' =common sense, then you're probably not going to get any answers. = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4E26.E1256280-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon Feb 1 20:55:20 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, Subject: Sanding glue off blank BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_MiZ1Yz2MJ+ZE1lPsqmL5nQ)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_MiZ1Yz2MJ+ZE1lPsqmL5nQ) I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough timeknowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beigeand the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping thatwhenI'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory,this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's thepossibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking onsome moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bitover my taper dimensions. Should you just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be rightatthe power fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven'tyoucut through some? I'd really appreciate it if someone could describe whatthe cane should look like once the glue and enamel are removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_MiZ1Yz2MJ+ZE1lPsqmL5nQ) presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough time = when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beige and = is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on the sandpaper. I've = measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, = removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this may be right but in = I'm not so sure since there's the possibly that the blank has swelled a = from gluing or from taking on some moisture. After about one hour of = sanding, I'm still a bit over my taper dimensions. see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the power = the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you cut through = I'd really appreciate it if someone could describe what the = look like once the glue and enamel are removed. in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_MiZ1Yz2MJ+ZE1lPsqmL5nQ)-- from drinkr@voicenet.com Mon Feb 1 21:20:17 1999 0000 (207.103.143.72) Subject: Cork boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE4E30.5BDC17E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE4E30.5BDC17E0 Im putting together a cork order from C&D. I probably don't need morethan500 1/2 inch rings at this time so I would be willing to split off some ofthe order to another builder. The price is .65 per ring +shipping. Iwont sort the cork before sending it out just split it as it comes. Contactme off list if there is any interest. David Rinker ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE4E30.5BDC17E0 Rinker ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE4E30.5BDC17E0-- from BambooRods@aol.com Mon Feb 1 21:21:20 1999 Subject: Re: Powell rods In a message dated 2/1/99 8:52:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,moran@lincoln.midcoast.com writes: Please post the info.thanksdoug hall from mrj@aa.net Mon Feb 1 21:29:23 1999 Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:29:12 -0800 "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Subject: RE: Sanding glue off blank boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE4E18.C4653020" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE4E18.C4653020 I used to sand off the glue on my blanks but now I scrape it off. I take myplane blade out of my plane and hold it sideways and simply scrape theglueoff. I use one of those round lighted magnifying lenses to see the tipsection with and I go really slow "up there". This method has workedreallywell for me. I follow by sanding with maybe 320 grit or so for only a fewpasses and then progress to 400 followed by 600 grit and then polish withthe bamboo shavings. As far as when to stop, I can't tell you. Maybesomeoneelse can. I will tell you that you are not going to remove a lot of materialwith 400 and 600 grit paper. Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:57 PM Subject: Sanding glue off blank I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a toughtime knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel isbeige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping thatwhenI'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory,this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's thepossibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking onsome moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bitover my taper dimensions. Should you just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you berightat the power fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven'tyou cut through some? I'd really appreciate it if someone could describewhat the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE4E18.C4653020 to sand off the glue on my blanks but now I scrape it off. I take my = out of my plane and hold it sideways and simply scrape the glue off. I = of those round lighted magnifying lenses to see the tip section with and = really slow "up there". This method has worked really well for= follow by sanding with maybe 320 grit or so for only a few passes and = progress to 400 followed by 600 grit and then polish with the bamboo = As far as when to stop, I can't tell you. Maybe someone else can. I will = you that you are not going to remove a lot of material with 400 and 600 = paper. Martin Jensen Richard = NantelSent: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:57 = blankI'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm = time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the = beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust = sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping = I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In = this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the = possibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from = some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a = over my taper dimensions. just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the = fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you = through some? I'd really appreciate it if = describe what the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are = removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE4E18.C4653020-- from jjohnso4@bellsouth.net Mon Feb 1 22:09:38 1999 XAA18259 Subject: Re: Son of Cork Order Hi David, Anything happening with this? Johnny Dear All-Who-Participate Just thought all should know: CorkSpecialties returned my check. Since it was not accompanied by anythingwhich could be construed as "communication"- just an envelope and acheck (?)- I assume he doesn't feel that he can satisfy me as regardsquality. Since everybody has been very patient and gone along with itthus far, I wanted to inform all involved that I've selected anotherdealer, Christ Kishish of C&D Trading in Minnesota. If anyone haspertinent comments re. this firm, or is just tired of the ride and wantsto get off, please let me know. I hope none take me up on this, sincewe are just at a good price break now, and defections would limit ourbuying power. I will certainly honor any such requests, however, withno ill will whatever, in case that's anyone's desire. I'll stand by acouple of days to gauge the wind, then I'll launch, hopefully, our finalprobe. Keeping the Faith, from maxs@geocities.co.jp Mon Feb 1 23:24:12 1999 mail.geocities.co.jp (8.9.2+1.1G/GEOCITIES1.1) with SMTP id OAA03820;Tue, 2 Feb 199914:24:06 +0900 (JST) Subject: Gary Lohkamp Gary, Please contact me offlist. I need to talk with you on phone.I need your phone number and address again. Max from maxs@geocities.co.jp Tue Feb 2 01:26:19 1999 mail.geocities.co.jp (8.9.2+1.1G/GEOCITIES1.1) with SMTP id QAA29313;Tue, 2 Feb 199916:26:08 +0900 (JST) "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Subject: RE: Sanding glue off blank boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE4EC3.2F3F0100" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE4EC3.2F3F0100 Hi Richard, I am not so much experienced but let me describe how I do it. When glue is sanded off? I use a file to take the glue (and string) off. The file has parallel edgesin one direction. ( I don't knowhow I name it, vixen?) So it is like to have many scraping brade on it inparallel.I look through the blank on each flat against a light (or window) aftercarefully file off for a while.Since glue shines, I can understand whether glue is till remained on theflat.I think it is the same when I use sand paper. When to stop sanding.? There might be another opinion but, in my case, I stop when I have thedesignated taper at each point of measurement as originally planned. Todothis, I am careful to keep the both side of one flat are filed off evenly bycounting how many times I filed both sides. (to be straight) When I judge the enamel is off completely? guess I could see a reflection, something different from other area, likeshine is different if again I look through the surface against the light.I thought I could see some moisture-like thin color above the fibers on thesurface when I looked at the surface from a perpendicular angle of theflat.Even if I judge that enamel is completely offed, when the dimension islarger than the designated taper, I keep filing off the flat until thedimension matches the original plan, by taking care of number of strokesoffiling on each flat. After (or just before) I get the final taper on the blank, I lightly sand(or polish) the surface with veryfine grids of paper (#1000 water proof without water). It gets ready tovarnish. Does this help? Max -----Original Message----- Subject: Sanding glue off blank I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a toughtime knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel isbeige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping thatwhenI'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory,this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's thepossibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking onsome moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bitover my taper dimensions. Should you just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you berightat the power fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven'tyou cut through some? I'd really appreciate it if someone could describewhat the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE4EC3.2F3F0100 Hi =Richard, I am not somuch = describe how I do it. When glue issanded =off? I use a file totake = know name it, = like to have many scraping brade on it in parallel.I look throughthe = a light (or window) after carefully file off for a while. Since glueshines, I = glue is till remained on the flat.I think it isthe = paper. When to stop=sanding.? There mightbe = case, I stop when I have the designated taper at each point of = flat are filed off evenly by counting how many times I filed both sides. = straight) When I judgethe = completely? file = different from other area, like shine is different if again I look = surface against the light.I thought Icould see = color above the fibers on the surface when I looked at the surface from = perpendicularangle = if I judge that enamel is completely offed, when the dimension is = flat until the dimension matches the original plan, by taking care of = strokes of filing on each flat. After (or just= on the blank, I lightly sand (or polish) the surface with very = fine grids ofpaper = Does this =help? Max Rodmakers (E-mail) <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Tuesday, February 02, 1999 11:57 AMSubject: Sanding glue= blank I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm = time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the = beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust = sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping = I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In = this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the = possibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from = some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a = over my taper dimensions. just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the = fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you = through some? I'd really appreciate it if = describe what the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are = removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BE4EC3.2F3F0100-- from Sergio.Ishikawa@nextel.com.br Tue Feb 2 05:56:59 1999 Subject: test test from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue Feb 2 08:35:46 1999 Subject: new planes KE>What is the model number of the Stanley plane currently being soldthat isKE>similar to the oldKE> 9 1/2s? Thanks...Kev Kevin,Sorry, I forgot to look at the number on the side of my plane in thegarage last night. It something like 12G0900. However, look at thefollowing website for a description and pictures of the Stanley 9 1/2Block Plane. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5 Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Tue Feb 2 09:01:14 1999 smtp.clarityconnect.comwith ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Tue, 2 Feb 199910:01:20-0500 (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2); Tue, 2 Feb 1999 09:57:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE4E93.1FE4CD00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE4E93.1FE4CD00 I am a big fan of seeing the power fibers. Sand until you are sure the =glue is off. Look under a light or window and you should be able to see =some sort of reflection. In the whole scheme of things I wouldn't worry =all to much about the few fibers you sever while sanding. If you are =close to the taper...great...I don't think I would sand .004" of each =spline to hit the taper if the rod was oversized. I would probably just =get a larger line. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Richard Nantel Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 9:57 PMSubject: Sanding glue off blank I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a =tough time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the =enamel is beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the =dust on the sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, =hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer =of glue. In theory, this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure =since there's the possibly that the blank has swelled a little from =gluing or from taking on some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly =sanding, I'm still a bit over my taper dimensions. Should you just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be =right at the power fibers? By the time you are right at the power =fibers, haven't you cut through some? I'd really appreciate it if =someone could describe what the cane should look like once the glue and =enamel are removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE4E93.1FE4CD00 I am a big fan of seeing the power= things I wouldn't worry all to much about the few fibers you sever while = sand .004" of each spline to hit the taper if the rod was = I would probably just get a larger line.Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod = Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) =277- 4510www.munrorodco.com -----Original = Rodmakers (E-mail) <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Monday, February 01, 1999 9:57 PMSubject: Sanding = blankI'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm = time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the = beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust = sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping = I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In = this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the = possibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from = some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a = over my taper dimensions. just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the = fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you = through some? I'd really appreciate it if = describe what the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are = removed. Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE4E93.1FE4CD00-- from jfoster@gte.net Tue Feb 2 10:14:26 1999 Subject: archives mac-creator="4D4F5353" you should be able to get to the 1/96 archives now sorry jerry from jonfun@univest.com Tue Feb 2 10:27:02 1999 Subject: RE: new planes The number on the new planes is g12-020. However they are boxed underthenumber g12-920. Jonathan FunkSoftware EngineerUnivest Financial Group LLC -----Original Message-----From: dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:22 AM Subject: new planes KE>What is the model number of the Stanley plane currentlybeing sold that isKE>similar to the oldKE> 9 1/2s? Thanks...Kev Kevin,Sorry, I forgot to look at the number on the side of myplane in thegarage last night. It something like 12G0900. However,look at thefollowing website for a description and pictures of theStanley 9 1/2Block Plane. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5 Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net cc: IN:RODMAKERS@MAIL.WUSTL.EDU winmail.dat Name: winmail.datType: unspecified type (application/octet-stream)Encoding: x-uuencode from Turbotrk@aol.com Tue Feb 2 13:35:25 1999 Subject: Hey Is the list dead or is everyone just taking care of their hangovers from thesuperbowl? Just wondering. from hexagon@odyssee.net Tue Feb 2 15:07:11 1999 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank 24040A5C79CDB807DDACEE68" --------------24040A5C79CDB807DDACEE68 Richard,if you had washed the newly glued up blank with a cloth and plenty ofwater there would have been nothing but a fuzzy line from removing thecord. A small block of wood and some 220 will remove the lines in a fewminutes. Finish off with a scotchbrite pad.Should take no more than 1/2 hour.I'll never undrstand why some builders use epoxy.regards, Terry Richard Nantel wrote: I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a toughtime knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamelis beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the duston the sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank,hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only thelayer of glue. In theory, this may be right but in practice, I'm notso sure since there's the possibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on some moisture. After about one hour ofgingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over my taper dimensions.Should youjust see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at thepower fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven'tyou cut through some? I'd really appreciate it if someone coulddescribe what the cane should look like once the glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks in advance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514)485-2287 --------------24040A5C79CDB807DDACEE68 Richard, and plenty of water there would have been nothing but a fuzzy line fromremoving the cord. A small block of wood and some 220 will remove thelinesin a few minutes. Finish off with a scotchbrite pad.Should take no more than 1/2 hour.I'll never undrstand why some builders use epoxy.regards, Terry Richard Nantel wrote: presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough timeknowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beigeand the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper.I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'mexactlyon taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this maybe right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the possibly thatthe blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on somemoisture.After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over my taperdimensions.Shouldyou just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at thepower fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you reallyappreciate it if someone could describe what the cane should look likeonce the glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks --------------24040A5C79CDB807DDACEE68-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Feb 2 15:24:22 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, Subject: Silk thread BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_ZGQNt8iS4H9K49dwgRSsVQ)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_ZGQNt8iS4H9K49dwgRSsVQ) I've come across quite a stash of silk thread at a local dressmaker'ssupplyshop.It comes in 100 meter spools, about 50 colors and is quiteinexpensiveat $3.80 Cdn per spool. Trouble is, I'm not experienced enough to knowwhether it is fine enough for bamboo rod building. The company or productname is Zwicky Iris. The spools contain the following code: 100% silk Nm100/3 300 (3). Does anyone speak thread? I'd like to know whether thesenumbers correspond to anything we know such as size A, Elephant,Gossamer,etc. Thanks in advance, Richard PS I don't think you can successfully mike thread with a dial caliper. richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_ZGQNt8iS4H9K49dwgRSsVQ) come across quite a stash of silk thread at a local dressmaker's supply = comes in 100 meter spools, about 50 colors and is quite inexpensive at = per spool. Trouble is, I'm not experienced enough to know whether it is = enough for bamboo rod building. The company or product name is Zwicky = spools contain the following code: 100% silk Nm 100/3 300 (3). Does = thread? I'd like to know whether these numbers correspond to anything we= such as size A, Elephant, Gossamer, etc. in advance, Richard caliper. richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_ZGQNt8iS4H9K49dwgRSsVQ)-- from RMargiotta@aol.com Tue Feb 2 18:22:32 1999 Subject: Re: Silk thread Richard: I think this is Size 100; the 100/3 means "Size 100, 3ply", I think. If it isSize 100 it's slightly smaller than 00 (which is smaller than A) but largerthan Pearsall's Gossamer (which seems to me to be approx. a 5/0-6/0, butI'mjust guessing.) You should buy a spool and compare it to some of yourknownsizes, using a magnifying glass (you should be able to tell). I typically useYLI Size 100 for the main wraps and Pearsall's for tipping. --Rich from hexagon@odyssee.net Tue Feb 2 18:52:42 1999 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank A323A4993119448B9DDE9865" --------------A323A4993119448B9DDE9865 If you plane to the top of accurately set planing forms, there is noneed to check the finished blank after glue up. Using adhesives likeResorcinol, Urac and even Titebond that contain a proportion of walnutshell flour, it is impossible for a blank to mic up at twice the splinedimension. Adhesives take up space and there are 6 glue lines.If the splines measured ok before gluing and a few thou oversize aftergluing, it is not a problem. There is, after all, the right amount ofcane in the rod, only the glue line perhaps varies.I see no sense in removing power fibers because you perhaps have someextra glue!T.Ackland Jon Lintvet wrote: I am a big fan of seeing the power fibers. Sand until you are surethe glue is off. Look under a light or window and you should be ableto see some sort of reflection. In the whole scheme of things Iwouldn't worry all to much about the few fibers you sever whilesanding. If you are close to the taper...great...I don't think Iwould sand .004" of each spline to hit the taper if the rod wasoversized. I would probably just get a larger line. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com -----Original Message-----From: Richard Nantel Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 9:57 PMSubject: Sanding glue off blankI'm presently sanding theglue off my first blank. I'm having a tough time knowingwhen to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel isbeige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color ofthe dust on the sandpaper. I've been taking measurementsalong the blank, hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, I'llhave removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this may beright but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's thepossibly that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on some moisture. After about one hour ofgingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over my taperdimensions.Should you just see the power fibers through ahaze? Should you be right at the power fibers? By the timeyou are right at the power fibers, haven't you cut throughsome? I'd really appreciate it if someone could describewhat the cane should look like once the glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks inadvance, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --------------A323A4993119448B9DDE9865 If you plane to the top of accurately set planing forms, there is no needto check the finished blank after glue up. Using adhesives like Resorcinol,Urac and even Titebond that contain a proportion of walnut shell flour,it is impossible for a blank to mic up at twice the spline dimension.Adhesivestake up space and there are 6 glue lines.If the splines measured ok before gluing and a few thou oversize aftergluing, it is not a problem. There is, after all, the right amount of canein the rod, only the glue line perhaps varies.I see no sense in removing power fibers because you perhaps havesomeextra glue!T.Ackland Jon Lintvet wrote: am a you are close to the taper...great...I don't think I would sand .004" of probablyjust get a larger line. Jon Lintvet (Munro RodCompany)140 E. SpencerSt.Ithaca, NY14850(800) 836-7558 or (607)277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----OriginalMessage----- From: Richard Nantel<richard.nantel@videotron.ca> <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu>Date: Monday, February 01,1999 9:57 PMSubject: Sanding glue offblankI'mpresently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough timeknowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beigeand the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper.I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'mexactlyon taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this maybe right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the possibly thatthe blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on somemoisture.After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over my taperdimensions.Shouldyou just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at thepower fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you reallyappreciate it if someone could describe what the cane should look likeonce the glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks --------------A323A4993119448B9DDE9865-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Feb 2 19:25:22 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, Subject: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_ZUrNtZCowIN4Xxy0X7bEEA)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_ZUrNtZCowIN4Xxy0X7bEEA) I started the humidity in non-varnished blank thread a little while ago.Thanks to all who responded. It has been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probably one of the best ways tokeep moisture out of a bamboo rod. I'd therefore like to spin this threadoff into one about the technique of impregnation. How's it done? Whatresinsare now used? Are there resources on the web that might cover woodimpregnation techniques? It doesn't seem to be widely used by membersonthis list. Most opt for dipping it seems. Is that because there's a negativeside to impregnation? It is definitely a technique I'd like to try. Thanks in advance, Richard --Boundary_(ID_ZUrNtZCowIN4Xxy0X7bEEA) started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all who responded. It = very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probably one of = ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. = --Boundary_(ID_ZUrNtZCowIN4Xxy0X7bEEA)-- from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Feb 2 19:41:30 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, Subject: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Oops. Part of my post disappeared. Here's the full text: I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all who responded. Ithas been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probablyone of the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. So, I'd like tostart a thread on impregnation. What are the techniques and materials?Mostrodbuilders on this list seem to prefer dipping their rods, is that becausethere is a negative side to impregnation? It is a technique I'd like to try. Richard from mrj@aa.net Tue Feb 2 20:36:01 1999 Subject: RE: Silk thread boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0030_01BE4EDA.7C8858A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BE4EDA.7C8858A0 I imagine you could with an electron microscope, or maybe a laser? Martin Jensen -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 1:22 PM Subject: Silk thread PS I don't think you can successfully mike thread with a dial caliper. richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BE4EDA.7C8858A0 Martin Jensen Richard = NantelSent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 1:22 = Rodmakers (E-mail)Subject: Silk =thread caliper. richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BE4EDA.7C8858A0-- from jefffly@choice.net Tue Feb 2 20:37:02 1999 VAA25312 Subject: Gatlinburg Gathering? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE4EF4.0FA34E60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE4EF4.0FA34E60 A few months ago there was some discussion about a rodmakers gathering=in Gatlinburg, TN. Does anyone have any new information on whether or =not this is going to happen? Date? TIA, Jeff ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE4EF4.0FA34E60 A few months ago there was some= a rodmakers gathering in Gatlinburg, TN. Does anyone have any new = TIA, Jeff ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE4EF4.0FA34E60-- from tbeckfam@pacbell.net Tue Feb 2 23:11:54 1999 mail-gw6.pacbell.net (8.8.8/8.7.1+antispam) with SMTP id VAA15336; Tue,2 Feb 1999 21:11:00 Subject: Re: new planes dickfuhrman@rheemote.com wrote: KE>What is the model number of the Stanley plane currently being soldthat isKE>similar to the oldKE> 9 1/2s? Thanks...Kev Kevin,Sorry, I forgot to look at the number on the side of my plane in thegarage last night. It something like 12G0900. However, look at thefollowing website for a description and pictures of the Stanley 9 1/2Block Plane. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5 Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net cc: IN:RODMAKERS@MAIL.WUSTL.EDU Model # is 12-920Traver Becker from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Wed Feb 3 00:21:20 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Wed, 3 Feb 1999 06:20:47 +0000 Subject: Re: new planes 12-220 non-adjustable mouth ($30 plane) or12-920 adjustable mouth ($50 plane) George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: new planes dickfuhrman@rheemote.com wrote: KE>What is the model number of the Stanley plane currently being soldthat isKE>similar to the oldKE> 9 1/2s? Thanks...Kev Kevin,Sorry, I forgot to look at the number on the side of my plane in thegarage last night. It something like 12G0900. However, look at thefollowing website for a description and pictures of the Stanley 9 1/2Block Plane. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5 Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net cc: IN:RODMAKERS@MAIL.WUSTL.EDU Model # is 12-920Traver Becker from jfoster@gte.net Wed Feb 3 02:29:58 1999 Subject: archives mac-creator="4D4F5353" jan archives are up jerry from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Feb 3 10:55:37 1999 Subject: Re: new planes In a message dated 2/2/99 10:25:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, irish- george@worldnet.att.net writes: 12-220 non-adjustable mouth ($30 plane) or12-920 adjustable mouth ($50 plane) My nonadjustable roughing plane is stamped G12-220,but my adjustable throat Stanley plane is stamped G12-020on the side. It also cost $29.95. Last week I saw it in awoodworking store for $32.95 Darryl from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Wed Feb 3 10:58:36 1999 Subject: Planes Kevin and Others,Thanks for giving Kevin the correct number for the 9 1/2 Block Plane. Iwas trying to work from a faulty memory. I had slept the night before. Kevin, Besides the URL that I gave you, also try:http:\\stanleyworks.com Then click on Contractor's Catalog, then on Hand/Carpentry, then onPlanes, and finally on Block Planes. The picture that comes up shouldbe of the 9 1/2 (12-920) Stanley Block Plane. There is also a "Where toPurchase" button there. It will ask for your Zip Code Number. When Itried this it gave me nine retail stores in my area. Some I had nottried like K-Mart. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net from BThoman@neonsoft.com Wed Feb 3 11:07:28 1999 Subject: Dip Tube What do most people use for their dip tube? PVC? Aluminum? Copper? Isanyone better than the other? I've been using PVC. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from GLohkamp@aol.com Wed Feb 3 11:10:28 1999 Subject: Troutdale meeting Well, this is the program so far, it will fill out some more by May 22nd,butl really needed to get something out in the mail.Iam sure the agenda willfillout some more by the time the meeting rolls around. If you have anyquestionsor wish to participate with a demo or presentation please feel free tocontact me Thanks Gary Cane Rod Makers Troutdale, Oregon May 22nd 1999 Many thanks to the Northwest Flyfishers Club of Troutdale who hasgenerouslyoffered their clubhouse, for us to use, also the city of Troutdale Parksdepartment. Subject PresenterTime Doors open, Coffee & muffins Introductions8:00 Round table discussion begins8:30 Morning break.10: 00 Finish up round table Sharpening tools: Tom Fulk. Tools, Planes: Kevin Calloway Kevin will have many of the hand tools needed to work with the bamboo.Somepros and cons will be Discussed as well as demonstrations of use and maintenance Lunch break12:00 Gadgets, Binders, Ovens , Milling demonstration: GoldenWitch Rods GoldenWitch will be showing some of there milling equipment and otherGadgets ,to make building A little easier Urushi Varnishing: Gary Lohkamp Morgan hand mill Rodsmiths will be showing off the hand mill Casting: Leroy Teeple Leroy is a great caster and a very good instructor, be sure and bring a rod. Wrap up discussion/ raffle til 5pm Proceeds go to the Northwest Flyfishers River Keeper program . Directions : Heading east bound on l-84 you would take exit #18 lewis andClark State park, just after you cross the Sandy River. Follow the riverupstream cross the bridge and the park will be on your left. We will be inthe large building just in the trees. from mevans@acxiom.com Wed Feb 3 11:13:42 1999 (5.5.2232.9) Subject: RE: Planes It has probably been mentioned, but Lowes carries a G12-060 -"contractor's grade plane. Itis a little nicer than the 020. It usually goes for around $39. ----------From: dickfuhrman@rheemote.com [SMTP:dickfuhrman@rheemote.com]Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 11:45 AM Subject: Planes Kevin and Others,Thanks for giving Kevin the correct number for the 9 1/2 Block Plane. Iwas trying to work from a faulty memory. I had slept the nightbefore. Kevin, Besides the URL that I gave you, also try:http:\\stanleyworks.com Then click on Contractor's Catalog, then on Hand/Carpentry, then onPlanes, and finally on Block Planes. The picture that comes up shouldbe of the 9 1/2 (12-920) Stanley Block Plane. There is also a "WheretoPurchase" button there. It will ask for your Zip Code Number. When Itried this it gave me nine retail stores in my area. Some I had nottried like K-Mart. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net from HARMS1@prodigy.net Wed Feb 3 11:48:56 1999 Wed, 3 Feb 1999 12:48:48 -0500 "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation =_NextPart_000_01BE4F73.705E1580" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4F73.705E1580 I wonder if we could have a little discussion about the process ofimpregnation. Some makers already do it, while others of us may bewondering what's involved in materials, set-up and process. Also, how about impregnating/stabilizing reel-seats? Cheers, Bill ---------- Subject: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all who responded. Ithas been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probablyone of the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4F73.705E1580 I wonder if we could have a= already do it, while others of us may be wondering what's involved in =materials, set-up and process.Also, how about = =is now ImpregnationDate: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 5:25 =PMI started=this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all who responded. It has been =very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probably one of =the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4F73.705E1580-- from dmanders@telusplanet.net Wed Feb 3 12:36:17 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Wed, 3 Feb 199911:32:57 - 0700 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:32:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation At 08:25 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: Arial0000,0000,ffffIstarted this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all who responded. Ithas been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probablyone of the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. BookAntiqua0000,8080,8080 from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Wed Feb 3 13:22:56 1999 (5.5.2407.0) "'dickfuhrman@rheemote.com'" Subject: RE: Planes this is I think, the cheapest price for a Stanley block plane. http://www.williamalden.com/ ----------From: dickfuhrman@rheemote.com[SMTP:dickfuhrman@rheemote.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 9:44 AM Subject: Planes Kevin and Others,Thanks for giving Kevin the correct number for the 9 1/2 Block Plane. Iwas trying to work from a faulty memory. I had slept the night before. Kevin, Besides the URL that I gave you, also try:http:\\stanleyworks.com Then click on Contractor's Catalog, then on Hand/Carpentry, then onPlanes, and finally on Block Planes. The picture that comes up shouldbe of the 9 1/2 (12-920) Stanley Block Plane. There is also a "Where toPurchase" button there. It will ask for your Zip Code Number. When Itried this it gave me nine retail stores in my area. Some I had nottried like K-Mart. Hope this helpsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Wed Feb 3 13:36:51 1999 via NOTES ," - (052)dickfuhrman(a)rheemote.com" Subject: RE: Planes All, thanks for all of the response on Stanley planes...FYI... Lowes here in Ohiohas the g12-920 adj. throat contractor grade for under $30...I picked oneupbecause of the low price. I am still interested in Munro's 9 1/2 model too. differences between that and the more mass produced Stanleys? (Jon,feel freeto jump in here!) thanks Kev from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Wed Feb 3 14:21:47 1999 smtp.clarityconnect.comwith ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Wed, 3 Feb 199915:21:45-0500 (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1b4); Wed, 3 Feb 1999 14:14:54 -0500 Subject: Apology boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0081_01BE4F80.4924A8A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BE4F80.4924A8A0 Sorry to the list for the last message to TA. Went to the wrong place. = Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BE4F80.4924A8A0 Sorry to the list for the last = Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod = Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) =277- 4510www.munrorodco.com ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BE4F80.4924A8A0-- from bjust@bellsouth.net Wed Feb 3 14:33:09 1999 Subject: Gatlinburg Gathering I don't know what has previously been discussed because I am new to thelist, however there is a Federation of Flyfishers show planned Aug. 4-7in Gatlinburg. I would not have much to offer(I'm new to rodmaking)butI would enjoy talking to and learning from other rodmakers. If anyoneknows for sure if this is going to happen please let me know because Idon't want to miss it. Brian Justiss from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Wed Feb 3 15:06:22 1999 smtp.clarityconnect.comwith ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Wed, 3 Feb 199916:06:21-0500 (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1b4); Wed, 3 Feb 1999 14:22:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0096_01BE4F81.46F6AFA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0096_01BE4F81.46F6AFA0 Hmmm...Shell Epon is strong as hell and has a great working time. I =know I am new at this but what other glues allow you to go back 18 hour =later and wet straighten, dries to a blond (almost cane) color, cleans = in no time with white vinegar (learned that from Chris B.), and let's =the binding thread pull right off? Discussed a quote today in class and it made me think of someone. "Our =beliefs are not automatically updated by the best evidence available. =They often have an active life of their own and fight tenaciously for =their own survival." D. Marks and R. Kammann Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Terence Ackland Cc: Rodmakers (E-mail) Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:13 PMSubject: Re: Sanding glue off blank if you had washed the newly glued up blank with a cloth and plenty =of water there would have been nothing but a fuzzy line from removing =the cord. A small block of wood and some 220 will remove the lines in a = I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a =tough time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the =enamel is beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the =dust on the sandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank, =hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removed only the layer =of glue. In theory, this may be right but in practice, I'm not so sure =since there's the possibly that the blank has swelled a little from =gluing or from taking on some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly =sanding, I'm still a bit over my taper dimensions.Should you just see =the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the power =fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you cut =through some? I'd really appreciate it if someone could describe what =the cane should look like once the glue and enamel are removed.Thanks in = ------=_NextPart_000_0096_01BE4F81.46F6AFA0 Hmmm...Shell Epon is strong ashell = allow you to go back 18 hour later and wet straighten, dries to a blond = cane) color, cleans up in no time with white vinegar = Chris B.), and let's the binding thread pull right off? Discussed a quote today in classand = think of someone. "Our beliefs are not automatically updated by the = tenaciously for their own survival." D. Marks and R. =KammannJon Lintvet (Munro Rod = Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) =277- 4510www.munrorodco.com -----Original = Rodmakers (E-mail) <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:13 PMSubject: Re: = off blankRichard, if you had washed the = nothing but a fuzzy line from removing the cord. A small block of = scotchbrite pad. Should take no more than 1/2 hour. I'll = presently = glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough time knowing when to = Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beige and the = beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on the sandpaper. = taking measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'm = taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this = right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the = the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on = moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a = my taper dimensions.Should you = power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the power = the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you cut = really = it if someone could describe what the cane should look like once = glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0096_01BE4F81.46F6AFA0-- from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Wed Feb 3 15:29:31 1999 smtp.clarityconnect.comwith ESMTP (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Wed, 3 Feb 199916:29:23-0500 (Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1b4); Wed, 3 Feb 1999 14:14:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0079_01BE4F80.211B5480" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BE4F80.211B5480 Once again, you missed the point. Nowhere did I say to sand away power =fibers because of excess glue. I said let the blank be if it is =oversized (due to planing) and increase the line weight. What's that =saying? "measure twice, cut once" ... how about "think twice, don't type =at all. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Terence Ackland Cc: Rodmakers (E-mail) Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 7:54 PMSubject: Re: Sanding glue off blank If you plane to the top of accurately set planing forms, there is no =need to check the finished blank after glue up. Using adhesives like =Resorcinol, Urac and even Titebond that contain a proportion of walnut =shell flour, it is impossible for a blank to mic up at twice the spline = If the splines measured ok before gluing and a few thou oversize =after gluing, it is not a problem. There is, after all, the right amount = I see no sense in removing power fibers because you perhaps have = I am a big fan of seeing the power fibers. Sand until you are =sure the glue is off. Look under a light or window and you should be =able to see some sort of reflection. In the whole scheme of things I =wouldn't worry all to much about the few fibers you sever while sanding. =If you are close to the taper...great...I don't think I would sand =.004" of each spline to hit the taper if the rod was oversized. I would = Subject: Sanding glue off blankI'm presently sanding the =glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough time knowing when to stop. =Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beige and the bamboo is =beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on the sandpaper. I've been =taking measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'm exactly on =taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this may be =right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the possibly that =the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on some =moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over =my taper dimensions.Should you just see the power fibers through a haze?=Should you be right at the power fibers? By the time you are right at =the power fibers, haven't you cut through some? I'd really appreciate it =if someone could describe what the cane should look like once the glue =and enamel are removed.Thanks in advance, Richard = ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BE4F80.211B5480 Once again, you missed the = blank be if it is oversized (due to planing) and increase the line = "think twice, don't type at all.Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod = Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) =277- 4510www.munrorodco.com -----Original = Rodmakers (E-mail) <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Tuesday, February 02, 1999 7:54 PMSubject: Re: = off blankIf you plane to the top of accurately = planing forms, there is no need to check the finished blank after = Using adhesives like Resorcinol, Urac and even Titebond that contain = proportion of walnut shell flour, it is impossible for a blank to = twice the spline dimension. Adhesives take up space and there are 6 = lines. If the splines measured ok before gluing and a few thou = after gluing, it is not a problem. There is, after all, the right = cane in the rod, only the glue line perhaps varies. I see no = would sand .004" of each spline to hit the taper if the rod = Jon Lintvet (Munro <rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu= Date: Monday, = 1999 9:57 PM Subject: Sanding glue off =blankI'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. = having a tough time knowing when to stop. Since the glue is = (urac), the enamel is beige and the bamboo is beige, I can't = measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'm exactly = I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this = right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the = that the blank has swelled a little from gluing or from = some moisture. After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm = bit over my taper =dimensions.Should = power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at the = fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, = really appreciate it if someone could describe what the cane = removed.Thanks in= 485- ------=_NextPart_000_0079_01BE4F80.211B5480-- from fiveside@net-gate.com Wed Feb 3 15:42:23 1999 ns1.net-gate.com (8.8.3/8.7.3) with SMTP id QAA08341 for; Wed, 3 Subject: Appropriate Quotes To the ListMaybe Jon started a new thread with his quote. Can't resist sending alongone of my favorites: The most difficult thing in the world is to know howtodo a thing and to watch someone else do it wrong without comment. Bill from hexagon@odyssee.net Wed Feb 3 16:17:48 1999 Subject: Re: Sanding glue off blank 5D42BB5C3E3E892D29138B62" --------------5D42BB5C3E3E892D29138B62 I once tried epoxy, I used the West System on two sets of blanks. Whenthe adhesive had cured I used some heat to remove a twist in the buttsection and it came apart. I contacted the company and they said thattheir adhesive had no heat resistance. I put what was left of the twoblanks in the corner of my workshop and forgot about them.I came across them a couple of years later when I decided to have a tidyup. I gave a tip section a bend and it came apart completely, everyspline delaminated. The other tip did the same. I had used what theycalled a small job pack, it was two sachets that you mixed together, soI could not have made a mistake with the quantities. I was glad that Idid not sell any rods made with the West epoxy.I am not suggesting that you will have this problem with the epoxy youare using but you must remember that you are using a product with noreal track record in the lamination of bamboo.Urea Formaldehyde, whether mixed with phenol, resorcinol or melaminehave a long documented history in the production of wood products usedas an engineering material.Cane rods have been made with these glues for over 70 years withoutproblems.I know that if I laminate my rods using the Urea family of adhesives,the glue line will last at least 70 years.Can you say that with certainty with epoxy?There is an excellent publication by the FPL called The Encyclopedia ofWood that has a great chapter on Adhesives and gluing.I prefer to get my advice from technical journals, it is generally morereliable.Terry Ackland Jon Lintvet wrote: Hmmm...Shell Epon is strong as hell and has a great working time. Iknow I am new at this but what other glues allow you to go back 18hour later and wet straighten, dries to a blond (almost cane) color,cleans upin no time with white vinegar (learned that from Chris B.),and let's the binding thread pull right off? Discussed a quote todayin class and it made me think of someone. "Our beliefs are notautomatically updated by the best evidence available. They often havean active life of their own and fight tenaciously for their ownsurvival." D. Marks and R. Kammann Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com -----Original Message-----From: Terence Ackland Cc: Rodmakers (E-mail) Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:13 PMSubject: Re: Sanding glue off blankRichard,if you had washed the newly glued up blank with a clothand plenty of water there would have been nothing but afuzzy line from removing the cord. A small block of wood andsome 220 will remove the lines in a few minutes. Finish offwith a scotchbrite pad.Should take no more than 1/2 hour.I'll never undrstand why some builders use epoxy.regards, Terry Richard Nantel wrote: I'm presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'mhaving a tough time knowing when to stop. Since the glueis beige (urac), the enamel is beige and the bamboo isbeige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper. I've been taking measurements along the blank,hoping that when I'm exactly on taper, I'll have removedonly the layer of glue. In theory, this may be right butin practice, I'm not so sure since there's the possiblythat the blank has swelled a little from gluing or fromtaking on some moisture. After about one hour of gingerlysanding, I'm still a bit over my taper dimensions.Shouldyou just see the power fibers through a haze? Should yoube right at the power fibers? By the time you are right atthe power fibers, haven't you cut through some? I'd reallyappreciate it if someone could describe what the caneshould look like once the glue and enamel areremoved.Thanks in advance, Richardrichard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --------------5D42BB5C3E3E892D29138B62 I once tried epoxy, I used the West System on two sets of blanks. Whenthe adhesive had cured I used some heat to remove a twist in the buttsectionand it came apart. I contacted the company and they said that theiradhesive the corner of my workshop and forgot about them.I came across them a couple of years later when I decided to have atidy up. I gave a tip section a bend and it came apart completely, every called a small job pack, it was two sachets that you mixed together, soI could not have made a mistake with the quantities. I was glad that Idid not sell any rods made with the West epoxy.I am not suggesting that you will have this problem with the epoxyyou are using but you must remember that you are using a product with noreal track record in the lamination of bamboo. melamine used as an engineering material.Cane rods have been made with these glues for over 70 years withoutproblems. adhesives,the glue line will last at least 70 years.Can you say that with certainty with epoxy?There is an excellent publication by the FPL called The Encyclopediaof Wood that has a great chapter on Adhesives and gluing.I prefer to get my advice from technical journals, it is more reliable.Terry Ackland Jon Lintvet wrote: I am new at this but what other glues allow you to go back 18 hour laterand wet straighten, dries to a blond (almost cane) color, cleansupinno time with white vinegar (learned that from Chris B.), and let's the a quote today in class and it made me think of someone. "Our beliefs are oftenhave an active life of their own and fight tenaciously for their ownsurvival."D. Marks and R. Kammann Jon Lintvet (Munro RodCompany)140 E. SpencerSt.Ithaca, NY14850(800) 836-7558 or (607)277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----OriginalMessage----- From: Terence Ackland<hexagon@odyssee.net> <richard.nantel@videotron.ca>Cc: Rodmakers (E- mail)<rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu>Date: Tuesday, February02,1999 4:13 PMSubject: Re: Sanding glueoffblankRichard, and plenty of water there would have been nothing but a fuzzy line fromremoving the cord. A small block of wood and some 220 will remove thelinesin a few minutes. Finish off with a scotchbrite pad.Should take no more than 1/2 hour.I'll never undrstand why some builders use epoxy.regards, Terry Richard Nantel wrote: presently sanding the glue off my first blank. I'm having a tough timeknowing when to stop. Since the glue is beige (urac), the enamel is beigeand the bamboo is beige, I can't go by the color of the dust on thesandpaper.I've been taking measurements along the blank, hoping that when I'mexactlyon taper, I'll have removed only the layer of glue. In theory, this maybe right but in practice, I'm not so sure since there's the possibly thatthe blank has swelled a little from gluing or from taking on somemoisture.After about one hour of gingerly sanding, I'm still a bit over my taperdimensions.Shouldyou just see the power fibers through a haze? Should you be right at thepower fibers? By the time you are right at the power fibers, haven't you reallyappreciate it if someone could describe what the cane should look likeonce the glue and enamel are removed.Thanksin advance, Richardrichard.nantel@videotron.ca(514)485-2287 --------------5D42BB5C3E3E892D29138B62-- from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Wed Feb 3 16:19:26 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id QAA04921 for; (8.8.4/8.6.8) with SMTP idQAA18732 for ; Wed, 3 Feb 1999 16:19:21 Subject: Search the archives I've cooked up a web page that searches the list's archives for aword or topic. It works OK for searching the "Subject" and "From" lines but is slow (by design) when searching the body of the messages. You can find it at http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/rma/rmsearch.html My intention is to keep it current, as long as the guys in the basement don't complain about the disk space I'm using. They call these things "search engines" this is more of a "search ox cart".`......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Feb 3 17:40:46 1999 via smap (4.1) 15:44:51 PST Subject: RE: Silk Thread Richard, The thread I have used with the 100/3 designation is somewhat largerthan A in my opinion. It is usually a little thicker than people prefer for tips, but is fine over ferrules or for butt sections I suppose. At $3.80 for a 100 meter spool, I'm not sure it's really a great deal. Anglers sells the YLI 3/0 silk for about $6.00 in a 200 yrd. spool. Sounds like a similar price if you factor in the conversion of yards to meters. However, if you're only buying one spool then the $4.00 in shipping blows my pricing theory. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from dmanders@telusplanet.net Wed Feb 3 18:10:08 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Wed, 3 Feb 199917:09:48 - 0700 Subject: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus VIRUS ALERT ! !! ! ! If you receive an e-mail entitled "Badtimes,"delete it immediatelyDo not open itApparently this one is pretty nastyIt will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it willalso delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computerIt demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cardsIt reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on yourVCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's youattemptto playIt will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so allyour ice cream melts and your milk curdlesIt will program your phone autodial to call only yourmother-in-law's numberThis virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tankIt will drink all your beerIt will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you are expectingcompanyIts radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybuttonfuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your earsIt will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine,all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back andbilling their hotel rendezvous to your Visa cardIt will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a waythat is only fun until someone loses an eyeIt will give you Dutch Elm Disease and TineaIt will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs topassive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings whichgrossly change the interpretations of key sentencesIf the "Badtimes" message is opened in a Windows95 environment, itwill leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged indangerously close to a full bathtubIt will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattresses andpillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milkIt will replace all your luncheon meat with SpamIt will molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing it tosmell like dill picklesIt is insidious and subtleIt is dangerous and terrifying to beholdIt is also a rather interesting shade of mauveThese are just a few signs of infectionPLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW!!! from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Feb 3 18:51:32 1999 Wed, 3 Feb 1999 18:48:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Search the archives Good Job, Frank! Again! You've made it almost simple to find what I'mlookingfor.Harry from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Feb 3 19:03:09 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, Subject: RE: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus I've received 4 of these warning messages just this week. The BadtimesVirus, the Pen Pal virus, the Goodtime virus, etc. Guys and gals, these arejust hoaxes. Richard -----Original Message----- Andersen Subject: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus VIRUS ALERT ! !! ! ! If you receive an e-mail entitled "Badtimes,"delete it immediatelyDo not open itApparently this one is pretty nastyIt will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it willalso delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computerIt demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cardsIt reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on yourVCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's youattemptto playIt will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so allyour ice cream melts and your milk curdlesIt will program your phone autodial to call only yourmother-in-law's numberThis virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tankIt will drink all your beerIt will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you are expectingcompanyIts radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybuttonfuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your earsIt will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine,all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back andbilling their hotel rendezvous to your Visa cardIt will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a waythat is only fun until someone loses an eyeIt will give you Dutch Elm Disease and TineaIt will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs topassive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings whichgrossly change the interpretations of key sentencesIf the "Badtimes" message is opened in a Windows95 environment, itwill leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged indangerously close to a full bathtubIt will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattresses andpillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milkIt will replace all your luncheon meat with SpamIt will molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing it tosmell like dill picklesIt is insidious and subtleIt is dangerous and terrifying to beholdIt is also a rather interesting shade of mauveThese are just a few signs of infectionPLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW!!! from hexagon@odyssee.net Wed Feb 3 19:45:00 1999 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation I get my reel seat inserts impregnated by a company called Waterloo WoodBearings.They do a good job, the process certainly stabilizes birds eye maple.I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don't youjust hate peoplelike that?) There is a definite plastic smell when you turn the processedwood. It could beacrylic. They offered to impregnate a piece of cane for me but I was notsure it was what Iwanted. I did not want apiece of cane so modified that it lost the characteristics of cane, which Ifelt theirprocess would do.If anyone on the list wanted to try it out I am sure that the company wouldimpregnate asample.Terry Ackland Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:32:37 -0700 From: Don & Sandy Andersen Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is nowImpregnation References: At 08:25 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all whoresponded. It hasbeen very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probably one ofthe best ways tokeep moisture out of a bamboo rod. Richard, The company where I got the impregnated wood inserts talked aboutin tier literatureimmersion of their impregnated wood products in water over nite and theamount of water thatthe wood takes up during this period and the fact that it seems to leavethe wood rapidlywithout causing problems.While I have no experience with impregnation, I would think that theyhave. Best checkit out. Don from hexagon@odyssee.net Wed Feb 3 19:50:33 1999 Subject: Re: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus You mean you cannot really catch it, even if you sat on a warm toilet seat? Richard Nantel wrote: I've received 4 of these warning messages just this week. The BadtimesVirus, the Pen Pal virus, the Goodtime virus, etc. Guys and gals, thesearejust hoaxes. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu AndersenSent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 6:51 PM Subject: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus VIRUS ALERT ! !! ! ! If you receive an e-mail entitled "Badtimes,"delete it immediatelyDo not open itApparently this one is pretty nastyIt will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it willalso delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computerIt demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cardsIt reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking onyourVCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's youattemptto playIt will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so allyour ice cream melts and your milk curdlesIt will program your phone autodial to call only yourmother-in-law's numberThis virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tankIt will drink all your beerIt will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you areexpectingcompanyIts radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybuttonfuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your earsIt will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine,all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back andbilling their hotel rendezvous to your Visa cardIt will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a waythat is only fun until someone loses an eyeIt will give you Dutch Elm Disease and TineaIt will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs topassive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings whichgrossly change the interpretations of key sentencesIf the "Badtimes" message is opened in a Windows95 environment,itwill leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged indangerously close to a full bathtubIt will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattressesandpillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milkIt will replace all your luncheon meat with SpamIt will molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing ittosmell like dill picklesIt is insidious and subtleIt is dangerous and terrifying to beholdIt is also a rather interesting shade of mauveThese are just a few signs of infectionPLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW!!! from jaquin@netsync.net Wed Feb 3 20:02:30 1999 quartz.netsync.net(8.9.2/8.6.12) with SMTP id VAA05427; Wed, 3 Feb 1999 21:02:17 -0500 Subject: Re: Making twined Leaders Canerods@aol.com wrote: All, The ISP that I used was purchased, ceased it's own internet service, andI'vebeen off-line for the best part of a week until the new ISP's software CDarrived. Please delete the flyfisher@cmix.com address from your address books. I'm glad I kept AOL as a backup. (only costs me $9.95 extra/mt. withtheir BYOInternet pricing plan) Don BurnsCanerods@aol.comhi don & all, there was a thread a couple months ago on making twinedleaders. anybody have the URL address? tia jerry from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Feb 3 20:54:39 1999 Thu, 4 Feb 1999 10:50:40 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: RE: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus The warning is in effect the virus. At least the agrivation ofgetting them dosn't damage anything. Tony On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Richard Nantel wrote: I've received 4 of these warning messages just this week. The BadtimesVirus, the Pen Pal virus, the Goodtime virus, etc. Guys and gals, thesearejust hoaxes. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu AndersenSent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 6:51 PM Subject: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus VIRUS ALERT ! !! ! ! If you receive an e-mail entitled "Badtimes,"delete it immediatelyDo not open itApparently this one is pretty nastyIt will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it willalso delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computerIt demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cardsIt reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking onyourVCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's youattemptto playIt will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so allyour ice cream melts and your milk curdlesIt will program your phone autodial to call only yourmother-in-law's numberThis virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tankIt will drink all your beerIt will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you areexpectingcompanyIts radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybuttonfuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your earsIt will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine,all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back andbilling their hotel rendezvous to your Visa cardIt will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a waythat is only fun until someone loses an eyeIt will give you Dutch Elm Disease and TineaIt will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs topassive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings whichgrossly change the interpretations of key sentencesIf the "Badtimes" message is opened in a Windows95 environment,itwill leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged indangerously close to a full bathtubIt will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattressesandpillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milkIt will replace all your luncheon meat with SpamIt will molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing ittosmell like dill picklesIt is insidious and subtleIt is dangerous and terrifying to beholdIt is also a rather interesting shade of mauveThese are just a few signs of infectionPLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW!!! /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from BambooRods@aol.com Wed Feb 3 21:06:26 1999 Subject: Re: Gatlinburg Gathering? I would be interested as well. I do know that the FFF Conclave is theresometime during the summer (I think).doug from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed Feb 3 21:07:47 1999 Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:06:11 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Public aploigy Terry,I prob should send this privately but I decided to broadcast it by way ofpublic apoligy just in case you delete it un-read. I am genuinely happy tosee how sorely I used you in previous postings re never having anythinguseful to say was unfair. Your recent posts have been as one would expect from a person with your obvious experience which I sure all areapreciating.I'm pretty sure we'll never actually agree on much but this craft is worthcontinuing what ever the personal reason people have for doing it and yourknowleage when you choose to share it is too important to just squirelaway.NO I'm not sucking up to you, I'm happy to see I was wrong and I'madmiting it. Tony On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Terence Ackland wrote: I get my reel seat inserts impregnated by a company called WaterlooWood Bearings.They do a good job, the process certainly stabilizes birds eye maple.I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don't youjust hate peoplelike that?) There is a definite plastic smell when you turn the processedwood. It could beacrylic. They offered to impregnate a piece of cane for me but I was notsure it was what Iwanted. I did not want apiece of cane so modified that it lost the characteristics of cane, whichI felt theirprocess would do.If anyone on the list wanted to try it out I am sure that the companywould impregnate asample.Terry Ackland Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:32:37 -0700 From: Don & Sandy Andersen Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is nowImpregnation References: At 08:25 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all whoresponded. It hasbeen very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnation is probably one ofthe best ways tokeep moisture out of a bamboo rod. Richard, The company where I got the impregnated wood inserts talked aboutin tier literatureimmersion of their impregnated wood products in water over nite and theamount of water thatthe wood takes up during this period and the fact that it seems to leavethe wood rapidlywithout causing problems.While I have no experience with impregnation, I would think thatthey have. Bestcheck it out. Don /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from channer@hubwest.com Wed Feb 3 21:09:47 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id AFD0CB2004E; Wed, 03 Feb 1999 20:11:12 MST Subject: RE: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus At 10:50 AM 2/4/99 +0800, you wrote: The warning is in effect the virus. At least the agrivation ofgetting them dosn't damage anything. Tony At least this one was entertainingJohn from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Feb 3 21:24:48 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, Subject: RE: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus I get so many of these bogus warnings I don't even bother reading past thefirst line. This one is well worth the read! I retract my previous warningthat this is a hoax. This virus is REALLY virulent. It will cause you tosmile while reading your e-mail. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: WARNING !! :Badtimes Virus In a message dated 2/3/99 5:04:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: I've received 4 of these warning messages just this week. The BadtimesVirus, the Pen Pal virus, the Goodtime virus, etc. Guys and gals, thesearejust hoaxes. Read this one. It's a joke - and hilarious! Darryl from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Feb 3 21:27:54 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, Subject: RE: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation Terry, Is it necessary to impregnate reel seats? The guy who took my order atRECtried to convince me to pay an additional $16 U.S. (over the $31 base price) water. Well the seat might but my rod wouldn't. I opted for the basicvarnished bird's eye maple for only $4 more. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation I get my reel seat inserts impregnated by a company called Waterloo WoodBearings.They do a good job, the process certainly stabilizes birds eye maple.I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don't youjust hate people like that?) There is a definite plastic smell when youturnthe processed wood. It could be acrylic. They offered to impregnate apieceof cane for me but I was not sure it was what I wanted. I did not want apiece of cane so modified that it lost the characteristics of cane, which Ifelt their process would do.If anyone on the list wanted to try it out I am sure that the company wouldimpregnate a sample.Terry Ackland Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:32:37 -0700 From: Don & Sandy Andersen Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is nowImpregnation References: At 08:25 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all whoresponded. It has been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnationis probably one of the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. Richard, The company where I got the impregnated wood inserts talked aboutintier literature immersion of their impregnated wood products in waterovernite and the amount of water that the wood takes up during this period andthe fact that it seems to leave the wood rapidly without causing problems.While I have no experience with impregnation, I would think that theyhave. Best check it out. Don from jfoster@gte.net Wed Feb 3 21:33:23 1999 Subject: Re: Making twined Leaders mac-creator="4D4F5353" leader url http://www.danica.com/mj/tacktech/henk/henk1.htm jerry from destinycon@mindspring.com Thu Feb 4 07:57:02 1999 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation At 08:46 PM 2/3/99 -0500, Terence Ackland wrote:I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don'tyou just hate people like that?) Terry Ackland Now That's funny!Regards,Gary H. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Thu Feb 4 08:23:52 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, Subject: RE: Public aploigy A few people on this list will be surprised to hear this, but no one hashelped me through my first rod more than Terry Ackland. I benefit fromliving in the same city as he does and he has been EXTREMELY generous inproviding me with valuable advice and support. Richard PS. Terry, sorry to have blown your cover as a grinch but Tony was on toyou. -----Original Message----- Subject: Public aploigy Terry,I prob should send this privately but I decided to broadcast it by way ofpublic apoligy just in case you delete it un-read. I am genuinely happy tosee how sorely I used you in previous postings re never having anythinguseful to say was unfair. Your recent posts have been as one would expect from a person with your obvious experience which I sure all areapreciating.I'm pretty sure we'll never actually agree on much but this craft is worthcontinuing what ever the personal reason people have for doing it and yourknowleage when you choose to share it is too important to just squirelaway.NO I'm not sucking up to you, I'm happy to see I was wrong and I'madmiting it. Tony On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Terence Ackland wrote: I get my reel seat inserts impregnated by a company called WaterlooWoodBearings.They do a good job, the process certainly stabilizes birds eye maple.I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don't youjust hate people like that?) There is a definite plastic smell when youturnthe processed wood. It could be acrylic. They offered to impregnate apieceof cane for me but I was not sure it was what I wanted. I did not want apiece of cane so modified that it lost the characteristics of cane, whichI felt their process would do.If anyone on the list wanted to try it out I am sure that the companywould impregnate a sample.Terry Ackland Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:32:37 -0700 From: Don & Sandy Andersen Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is nowImpregnation References: At 08:25 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: I started this thread a little while ago. Thanks to all whoresponded. It has been very helpful. It certainly sounds as if impregnationis probably one of the best ways to keep moisture out of a bamboo rod. Richard, The company where I got the impregnated wood inserts talked aboutin tier literature immersion of their impregnated wood products in waterover nite and the amount of water that the wood takes up during thisperiodand the fact that it seems to leave the wood rapidly without causingproblems.While I have no experience with impregnation, I would think thatthey have. Best check it out. Don /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb?A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 4 08:28:41 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Thu, 4 Feb 199907:28:25 - 0700 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation At 08:46 PM 2/3/99 -0500, Terence Ackland wrote:I get my reel seat inserts impregnated by a company called WaterlooWoodBearings.They do a good job, the process certainly stabilizes birds eye maple.I asked them once what they used but they refused to tell me ( don't youjust hate people like that?) There is a definite plastic smell when youturn the processed wood. It could be acrylic. They offered to impregnate apiece of cane for me but I was not sure it was what I wanted. I did notwant apiece of cane so modified that it lost the characteristics of cane, whichI felt their process would do.If anyone on the list wanted to try it out I am sure that the companywould impregnate a sample.Terry Ackland Terry & the list, Use the same product and it is acrylic that they use for impregnation. Theyhave worked with bamboo but in only small pieces for the jewelry trade.When I talked to them last, they said that they would be interested intrying to impregnate a rod shaft for me.While determination of weight increases due to the impregnation chemicalwill be easy, other tests to figure out how the cane changes may take awhile. If anyone has some thought on this, give me a shout. Don from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 4 08:28:42 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Thu, 4 Feb 199907:28:22 - 0700 Subject: Badtimes Virus - That was the point Richard & others, That was the point - most if not all of these Virus messages are BS -least this one is designed to be entertaining.Sorry if I offended anyone by forwarding the message - thought it mightdelay the shack nasties caused by too much snow and not enough fishing. Don from HARMS1@prodigy.net Thu Feb 4 08:30:57 1999 ext.prodigy.net JAA200272;Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:30:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Was humidity in non-varnished blank, is now Impregnation =_NextPart_000_01BE5020.F0685EE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5020.F0685EE0 Yeah, Richard may have a point here with respect to impregnated reelseats.But I was thinking that some of the exotically-burled softwoods likecedarand redwood could certainly benefit from the impregnation process. But,come to think of it, even the hardwoods like maple and walnut areprobablyunstable if heavily burled (or figured with some other pattern). I don't suppose one needs special (or extra) protection against rain oreven occasional dunkings--surely our ordinary finishes are good enough toprotect against that. I think it's probably just the slow moisture-creep,and the inevitable process of seasonal swelling and drying that threatensto split the wildly figured grains of some of these reel seats. Straight-grained wood probably would not be at risk from this process. I once stabilized apple crotch-wood for some decorative detail on a boat Ibuilt (twenty years ago) by submerging it in boiling linseed oil forseveral hours (out of doors, only). The problem, however, is that it canbe very dangerous because of the fire hazard. And, too, the woodcontinued to "weep" the oil for many weeks--after which, the piecesremained stable and very hard. So the process seems ok--we just need abetter product for the soaking. I wonder--are there any commerciallyavailable phenolic resins? Perhaps, once the reel seat is shaped it could be totally immersed in the liquid (even if not boiled) for someperiod of time (hours?