IAA09691; "rodmakers" Subject: Re: Security at Shows Terry, on this one, I definitely agree with you. Jeff-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Security at Shows Tony,I would not feel comfortable dealing out retribution like that for one ofmy rods,perhaps the $1300 plus builders could work up more enthusiasm.Dangalang dang dang dang dang dang dang.Terry Tony Young wrote: On Tue, 9 Feb 1999, Terence Ackland wrote: I had the uncomfortable feeling watching that show it was shot in in acouple of places I know of except the banjo player looked a little on theacademic side. I guess after the sleeping bag therapy thethieving bastards could do a little pig calling before lunch. Tony Tony,got me thinking of those Hillbillies in the movie Deliverance. Thatwould be payback time! heh, heh, heh. Terry Tony Young wrote: On a lighter side of all this. Much as I also like the "bobbing forstonefly" idea for the theiving bastards I could take them campingwith mein Tasmania. That way you can forgive and they'll remember heh, heh,heh. Tony On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, Ted Knott wrote: Thanks for all the comments and suggestions re: "thievingbastards"andwhat to do with them. I especially liked the one about sending theculpret"bobbing for stone flies". However, my original purpose in postingtheloss was to warn everyone about the need for vigilance when atpublicshows. I'm not awfully concerned about the loss and I think thesuggestions for a "registry" or "stolen List" simply creates a lotofunnecessary work for someone. I'm with Thramer and Ackland andhave putthe incident into the category of "forgive and remember". /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb?A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb?A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from Grhghlndr@aol.com Thu Feb 11 07:24:21 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Re: to restore or not/NOT Bill,There is a difference between being restored professionally and beingdone bysome amaeture. If done properly by someone who is qualified then thevalue ofthe piece is not hurt. It is when uncle Charlie who is the local fix it guygets ahold of stuff and redoes it is when the value is destroyed. I have afriend who has many fine antique rifles that have been restored by aresponsible professional who's value is intact.Bret from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Thu Feb 11 07:45:44 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, Subject: RE: Fly lines rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu I guess it depends on the brand. Climax leaders sell for $3.99 Cdn here,that's about $2.65 U.S. Leader material is cheap, though. Maxima sells for$2.37 per spool, or only $1.58 US. Richard -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Fly lines And leaders (I've heard). They are usually about $3.75 each in the US -- Iunderstand that they are around $1.75US in Canada. George Bourke-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Fly lines expensive in Canada than in the United States. For example, a 444 DTcostsus a mere $33.99 Cdn (about $22.50 U.S.). The same line from some placelikeCabelas costs $36 U.S (about $55 Cdn). For those of you traveling toCanada,it may be worth stocking up on fly lines here. Richard -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 4:56 PM Subject: Fly lines I am extremely tired of being 'hosed' for these grossly overpriced flylines. I mean REALLY! what are they talking about. Some of these linesare over $60!!. I started to buy Cortland 333 lines after somedissapointing trials with the 'big money' lines. DT only of course. Asan aside it is becoming more difficult to find even DT lines. As far asI am concerned WF line are an abomination. If I wanted to have a linewith one end that won't cast accuratly past 40ft, eliminate line controland not roll cast I would assume that the manufacturers would PAY ME!A.J.Thramer from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Thu Feb 11 08:04:37 1999 0500 Subject: was: to restore or not to restore; now: greenheart I've heard of greenheart. There's a wonderful poem in John Engels' bookBig Waters (everybody who loves trout fishing should own and read thisbook) about an old greenheart rod he had. I understand greenheart is akind of wood - does anybopdy build with it any more? What are itsproperties compared to cane? How can it be obtained? Do cane taperswork for it (probably not)? from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Thu Feb 11 08:13:26 1999 Thu, 11 Feb 1999 09:13:22 -0500 Subject: RE: converting tapers That is very interesting, considering the theory of many on the listthat the main difference between the nodes and the sweeps is that thenodes are stiffer. -----Original Message-----From: FISHWOOL@aol.com [SMTP:FISHWOOL@aol.com]Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 9:33 PM Canerod72@aol.com; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: converting tapers Bill & Bill, from my limited experience with nodeless I have found that a giventapernodeless is usually (note the weasel word here) 1 line wgt. stifferthan thenoded rod of the same taper. FWIW.Hank W. from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Thu Feb 11 08:35:24 1999 via NOTES Subject: Restoration Questions: South Bend I am restoring a pre-WW2 South Bend model 59, 9 1/2', 3 piece. The rodmeasures out to 9 1/2' but the mid section is about 1 1/2" shorter thanthe tipand butt sections. I don't think the ferrules are original, the lower ferruleset is held (poorly) in place by a set pin that only goes into one side of theferrule. The top ferrule set is more standard. Also the measurements attheferrule stations for the top of the butt are 20/64 and the bottom of themid is16/64...so the taper does not match exactly. I suspect that at one pointthemid section snapped at the bottom ferrule. Anyway...three questions:1). how do I remove the set pins since the cannot be driven through theferrule...they go in on one side only.2). What is my best option for the lower ferrule dilema. I have heard ofguyswrapping a silk base on the too thin section to build it up, and of guysfilingdown the too thick section...which way would retain the strength at thatferrule?3). Does anyone produce reproductions of either/or the "Comficient" grip (Icould do it myself in a pinch) or the "lite-lock" ?reel seat (I think that'swhat the seat is called...I don't have Sinclairs book in front of me) thanks, Kev from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 11 09:33:30 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Thu, 11 Feb 199908:27:24 - 0700 Subject: Re:Canadian Flyline Suppliers Richard et al, There is a shop in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada that deserves a look. Theyspecialize in fly tying stuff but also have a lot of other items.Have a look @ page 27.And remember the CDN buck is @ 60 cents to the US buck. address is http://www.telusplanet.net/public/flytying/catalog1.html Known these folks for 20 or so years - great retail outfit. Used toshipping stuff everywhere. enjoy, Don from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Thu Feb 11 09:46:39 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, Subject: RE: Canadian Flyline Suppliers HARMS1@prodigy.net Hi everyone, Actually, the Canadian dollar is on a bit of a rebound after the Asian fluhit us earlier this year. We were around $.73 U.S. last year, dropped to$.63 U.S and have now gained back some of the loss. It's now up to .66-.67to the U.S. dollar. Still many bargains to be found, though. Richard -----Original Message----- Subject: Re:Canadian Flyline Suppliers Richard et al, There is a shop in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada that deserves a look. Theyspecialize in fly tying stuff but also have a lot of other items.Have a look @ page 27.And remember the CDN buck is @ 60 cents to the US buck. address is http://www.telusplanet.net/public/flytying/catalog1.html Known these folks for 20 or so years - great retail outfit. Used toshipping stuff everywhere. enjoy, Don from lyons@teleport.com Thu Feb 11 10:21:45 1999 0000 (216.26.4.174) Subject: Resoration Questions Kevin Burkhard, I think South Bends are plentiful enough so that you should bee able to findasuitable replacement. I may have a few mids on hand. As far as removingtheferrule that is pinned in one side only, the only solution is to drill the pinuntil it is down below the ferrule wall and then heat and remove. I may beable to help you out with a ferrule or two and maybe even a reel seat. Letme know. Dwight lyons from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Thu Feb 11 13:16:39 1999 via NOTES Subject: smithwick binder Hi,I'm building one of the Smithwick style binders...Does anyone know a source to get 5/8" o.d. copper tube? Everywhere I looktheyonly have 1/2" and 3/4". thanks Kev from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Thu Feb 11 13:23:23 1999 via NOTES Subject: yet another question: Rod Marker I'm full of them today: What is the prefered pen or marker used by thelistersto mark their rods? thanks Kev from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Feb 11 13:39:16 1999 via smap (4.1) 11:46:24 PST Subject: RE: yet another question: Rod Marker Kevin, I use the Pentel Pigma with a .005" tip. This produces very fine writing, so you may want to use the next size larger in tip. This ink can be varnished over, and it is fade proof. The President of our United States signs documents with this pen because of it's fade proof qualities. The ink will not tolerate alcohol however, which is fine as long as Kennedy isn't elected. If you clean blanks with denatured alcohol, avoid the writing. That is the point I was trying to make...I think. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from rclarke@eou.edu Thu Feb 11 13:42:19 1999 11:41:36 -0800 " - (052)rodmakers(a)mail.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: smithwick binder I found mine at a local hardware store, but I had to go to 3 to find it. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu -----Original Message----- Subject: smithwick binder Hi,I'm building one of the Smithwick style binders...Does anyone know a source to get 5/8" o.d. copper tube? Everywhere I looktheyonly have 1/2" and 3/4". thanks Kev from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Thu Feb 11 13:58:17 1999 via smap (4.1) 12:04:52 PST Subject: RE: yet another question: Rod Marker Kevin, After all that I gave you the wrong name. It's a Pigma Micron 005. It's also water proof. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from rp43640@online-club.de Thu Feb 11 14:33:48 1999 +0100 (MET) Subject: Stabilized reel seats to the list: having read the discussion on stabilizing real seats I could rememberthat archeologists when trying to recover waterlogged ships use similiarmaterials. I found one source PRG. They make a low viscosity epoxy.They also have a homepage: http://www.prginc.com/prod-index/jp-146.htmlThere you can find any necessary information technical data and even theimportant material safety data sheet (MSDS).Now I still have to find out if they will ship to Germany. The price didnot seem to be impressive. If anybody should try this, please let me know about the results. tight lines Christian from rfairfie@cisco.com Thu Feb 11 14:58:52 1999 SMTP id MAA09700; Subject: RE: converting tapers I have done a couple of quick tests with the excess cut off strips prior toany planing orheat treating to determine the relative strength of the node vs the sweepbetween the nodes.I grasp the scrap at each end and arch the scrap upwards until failureoccurs. Everytime Ihave done this, the strip has failed between the nodes; never at a node. The enamel side isalways to the outside of the arch, and I've made every attempt todistribute the forces sothat the sweeps are unduly stressed. I agree with Darryl's observationthat the nodes arestiffer than the section between the nodes. I have come to the conclusionthat they arestronger, too. One caveat, though, is that they are also more brittle, andwhen they fail(which I have made them do by sideways bending) they crack off; theydon't fracture powerfiber by power fiber like the sweeps between the nodes do. My $0.02 worth. Thanks,Roger At 09:15 AM 2/11/99 -0500, Seth Steinzor wrote:That is very interesting, considering the theory of many on the listthat the main difference between the nodes and the sweeps is that thenodes are stiffer. -----Original Message-----From: FISHWOOL@aol.com [SMTP:FISHWOOL@aol.com]Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 9:33 PM Canerod72@aol.com; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: converting tapers Bill & Bill, from my limited experience with nodeless I have found that a giventapernodeless is usually (note the weasel word here) 1 line wgt. stifferthan thenoded rod of the same taper. FWIW.Hank W. from chris@artistree.com Thu Feb 11 15:56:43 1999 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu =?iso-8859-1?Q?=2A=A1?=" Subject: Re: Stabilized reel seats (PENTACRYL) This reminds me that I meant to post this. PENTACRYLOne of the headaches of turning your own reel seats from various woodsespecially burled wood is the tendency for the material to crack andcheck. I recently expressed my frustration to some friends of mine whoturnburled woods into beautiful artistic bowls on the lathe. Theyrecommended I try a new product called PENTACRYL. The company whomanufactures this product first developed it for use in museums whichneeded a way to stabilize and preserve water logged wood. It probably should be first stated that wood treated with PENTACRYL isnotsame as wood that has been impregnated with an acrylic or othervarious solvent based resin formulations. These are usually done within avacuum and produce a stable, water proof and plastic looking endproduct. For the average rod builder the costs for this kind of setup areprohibitive and can be potential dangerous to operate. PENTACRYL, on the other hand is safe, non-toxic, fast working and easy touse. The end result is a stabilized piece of wood that can be turned orstored without fear of cracking or checking. It does not change the colorof the wood and it can be finished with conventional finishes and gluedwith conventional glues. The only two downfalls I have found are: 1) it'snot completely waterproof so your real seat treated with PENTACRYL willneed a finish such as urethane varnish. 2) it will not fill in holes orsoft spots found in some wood pieces. So you need to pick (or fill) yourwood carefully. The best way to use PENTACRYL is to immerse the wood turning block inthesolution for 24 hours for each inch in length. For a four inch long woodreal seat block, four days should just about do it. The ideal room temp.range while soaking should between 60Ÿ - 70Ÿ F. The container used canbeplastic or fiberglass but not made of metal. PENTACRYL actually works bycapillary action so the wetter or greener the wood the faster and moreeffectively it works. The amount of time needed for absorption also canvary depending on the grain, moisture content and type of wood you areusing so it's best to experiment with a few pieces before committing todoing a large quantity. After removing the wood from the PENTACRYL solution it needs to be lefttodry. PENTACRYL actually displaces the moisture (water molecules) in thewood. If the wood is left to dry on it's own with an ideal room temp of 60Ÿ- 70Ÿ F and relative humidity of 50%-55%, the piece could be dry within 2to 3 weeks. Longer for larger pieces. Another method of drying is to let itdry for a few days, then place the pieces in a cardboard box and put in thefreezer. Yes, the freezer. The water molecules will evaporate in thefreezer and this is the recommend procedure for wildly grained woods. Turning the wood on the lathe is fairly easy as the PENTACRYL actuallytends to lubricate the wood turning. Before applying a finish make sure thewood has thoroughly dried and most importantly wipe down the surfacewith asolvent such as mineral spirits or acetone. Pieces treated withPENTACRYLaccept just about every finish available including urethanes, varnishes andtung oil. It can even can be stained. I spoke with the folks who manufacture PENTACRYL and was supprized tolearnthat they were all ready aware that people might be using their products resin formulation that would also be waterproof. The biggest hurdle beingthat most water proof formulations would need a solvent based resin towork. Most of which are classified as hazardous materials. Creating aproduct that is safe for the general public to use and that will satisfyall the various individual state's environmental regulation's will not benot an easy task. I wish them luck. If you wish to contact the manufacture and/or purchase PENTACRYL theycan be reached at:Preservation Solutions1060 Bunker Hill RoadJefferson ME 04348phone: (207) 563-5414email: knobloch@lincoln.midcoast.com PENTACRYL can also be purchased through:Packard WoodworksPO. Box 718Tryon, NC 28782phone: (800) 683-8876 P.S. - Cost is approx. $15 for a quart, $45 a gallon. Best Regards,Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Christian Meinke wrote: to the list: having read the discussion on stabilizing real seats I could rememberthat archeologists when trying to recover waterlogged ships usesimiliarmaterials. from HARMS1@prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 17:48:36 1999 Thu, 11 Feb 1999 18:48:26 -0500 , Subject: Re: Re: to restore or not/NOT =_NextPart_000_01BE55EE.FB8494A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE55EE.FB8494A0 Bret, Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quite whatwere talking about here. The problem I am having with many guns and rodsthat have become "collectors items" is their artificially inflated value-- value way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. Marketvalue that is "there" only if the piece is left unaltered from itsoriginal condition. Better, still, if the gun is unfired or the rod isunfished. And, again, it is chiefly the American collectors that haveinsisted upon this. A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantleis likely to have "market value" far greater than if that same piece werewell- restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, theonly purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. THIS ISLUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restore everything (that deservesit) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), and TO HELL withthe collectors' stupid notions of "value." Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have it anyother way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's a different setof considerations altogether. But collectors are often neither users oftheir collections, nor curators. They are investors who are playing, notwith the guns or rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate,and with the expectation that the market will rise. And it is only inTHAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." This isappropriate for stocks and bonds, but why should those of us who wouldliketo use and appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors' sense of "value?" Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like torestore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Grhghlndr@aol.com owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 5:22 AM Bill,There is a difference between being restored professionally and beingdone bysome amaeture. If done properly by someone who is qualified then thevalue ofthe piece is not hurt. It is when uncle Charlie who is the local fix itguygets ahold of stuff and redoes it is when the value is destroyed. I haveafriend who has many fine antique rifles that have been restored by aresponsible professional who's value is intact.Bret------ =_NextPart_000_01BE55EE.FB8494A0 Bret,Well, yes, a =poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated in = their artificially inflated value -- value way, way beyond what = unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantle is likely to have = =well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, =the only purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. = restore everything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristine = investors who are playing, not with the guns or rods, but with the =perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, and with the = THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." = those of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of our rods =and guns be coerced by these collectors' sense of = that you love, and would like to restore it to its original beautiful =condition so you can enjoy its life once again, for God's sake, DO = = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE55EE.FB8494A0-- from anglport@con2.com Thu Feb 11 17:59:36 1999 " - (052)rodmakers(a)mail.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: smithwick binder Kevin,Isn't 1/2 ID 5/8 OD?Art At 01:07 PM 2/11/99 -0600, Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com wrote:Hi,I'm building one of the Smithwick style binders...Does anyone know a source to get 5/8" o.d. copper tube? Everywhere Ilooktheyonly have 1/2" and 3/4". thanks Kev from anglport@con2.com Thu Feb 11 18:07:36 1999 " - (052)rodmakers(a)mail.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: yet another question: Rod Marker Again,I use a dip pen and India ink. It's about the narrowest nib you can get (Ididn't buy it, I inherited it from my grandfather). The India ink seems tobe permanent under any thing but water. Get one holder and one or two ofthe finest ([probably calligraphic) nibs you can find and they'll last aslong as the bottle of ink (or 50 years, whichever comes first). It worksbest if you scuff the varnish with fine abrasive first. Art At 01:14 PM 2/11/99 -0600, Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com wrote:I'm full of them today: What is the prefered pen or marker used by thelistersto mark their rods? thanks Kev from hexagon@odyssee.net Thu Feb 11 18:47:36 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT DFACCD5DF52834970D48CF25" --------------DFACCD5DF52834970D48CF25 Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willnever perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'.It could end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration.There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you onlyhave to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quitewhat were talking about here. The problem I am having with many gunsand rods that have become "collectors items" is their artificiallyinflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual qualitycould justify. Market value that is "there" only if the piece isleft unaltered from its original condition. Better, still, if the gunis unfired or the rod is unfished. And, again, it is chiefly theAmerican collectors that have insisted upon this. A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantle is likely to have "market value" far greater than if that samepiece were well- restored and put back into honorable service again --ostensibly, the only purpose for which the artifact was built in thefirst place. THIS IS LUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restoreeverything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristine condition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value." Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have itany other way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's adifferent set of considerations altogether. But collectors are oftenneither users of their collections, nor curators. They are investorswho are playing, not with the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff theyaccumulate, and with the expectation that the market will rise. Andit is only in THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having"value." This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why shouldthose of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of ourrods and guns be coerced by these collectors' sense of "value?" Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would liketo restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy itslife once again, for God's sake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Grhghlndr@aol.com owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 5:22 AM Bill,There is a difference between being restored professionally andbeing done bysome amaeture. If done properly by someone who is qualified thenthe value ofthe piece is not hurt. It is when uncle Charlie who is the localfix it guygets ahold of stuff and redoes it is when the value is destroyed. Ihave afriend who has many fine antique rifles that have been restored by a responsible professional who's value is intact.Bret --------------DFACCD5DF52834970D48CF25 Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time itwill never perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart itup'. It could end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration.There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, youonly have to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote:Bret, Well,yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated and inflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality the American collectors that have insisted uponthis. A pieceof unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantle is likely well-restoredand put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value." Good are investors who are playing, not with thegunsorrods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, is only in THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why should those of us whowould like to use and appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns becoerced Bottom restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT! Cheers,Bill ---------- pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Bill, There is a difference between being restored professionally and beingdoneby the value of fix it guy I have a friend who has many fine antique rifles that have been restored bya responsible professional who's value is intact. Bret --------------DFACCD5DF52834970D48CF25-- from dragnfly@uniserve.com Thu Feb 11 19:05:45 1999 Subject: unsubscribe boundary="----=_NextPart_000_04F4_01BE55E0.8AA8B4E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_04F4_01BE55E0.8AA8B4E0 ------=_NextPart_000_04F4_01BE55E0.8AA8B4E0 ------=_NextPart_000_04F4_01BE55E0.8AA8B4E0-- from SBDunn@aol.com Thu Feb 11 19:48:56 1999 Subject: A & F Monogram 9' 6 oz Salmon Rod Can anyone tell me anything about a supposedly bamboo fly rod labeled (inscript) "A and F Monogram" "Salmon Rod 9'-6oz." "Line Size #8". The rod isround and "Salmon red" in color. Bought in the 1940s from Aberchrombie and Fitch. Reel seat is greenmetal butlooks like a Heddon. The rest of the rod (as near as I can tell from thepicture he emailed me) does not look like Heddon. If anyone can tell me anything about the rod (including approx. value) Iwouldappreciate it. Thanks in advance, Steve. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Thu Feb 11 19:52:24 1999 Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Re: yet another question: Rod Marker All,I ,too, use a nib pen and india ink-works for me. Also, the new white outnon water based crap runs like crazy so I use india ink on my flamed rods- just turn up the lights a little more.:-)Hank W. from HARMS1@prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 20:05:03 1999 ext.prodigy.net VAA128346;Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:04:53 -0500 , Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOT =_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020 Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonablybe used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with it. At that point, the item has only two potential values -- either first case one might still restore the item if he just wants to admire itsformer glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thingalone and find somebody to write a check. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capableof being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but doit well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind the collector whoclaims you will have "ruined its value." What does THIS guy know aboutvalue? If you're concerned about maximizing your investments, learnaboutthe stock market. That's a game that will produce "value," if money isyour objective. (And, you'll realize still greater profits with which tobuy still MORE good rods and guns to restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions about whatyour rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ---------- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT Bill, if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willnever perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. Itcould end up a costly mistake that will only be realized after restoration. There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you onlyhave to look in dealers catalogues. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quite whatwere talking about here. The problem I am having with many guns and rodsthat have become "collectors items" is their artificially inflated value-- value way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. Marketvalue that is "there" only if the piece is left unaltered from itsoriginal condition. Better, still, if the gun is unfired or the rod isunfished. And, again, it is chiefly the American collectors that haveinsisted upon this. A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantleis likely to have "market value" far greater than if that same piece werewell-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, theonly purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. THIS ISLUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restore everything (that deservesit) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), and TO HELL withthe collectors' stupid notions of "value." Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have it anyother way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's a different setof considerations altogether. But collectors are often neither users oftheir collections, nor curators. They are investors who are playing, notwith the guns or rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate,and with the expectation that the market will rise. And it is only inTHAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." This isappropriate for stocks and bonds, but why should those of us who wouldliketo use and appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors' sense of "value?" Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like torestore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill ---------- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020 Surely, Terry. the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonably be used as it was = point, the item has only two potential values -- either = the first case one might still restore the item if he just wants =to admire its former glory, while in the second case he had better just =leave the thing alone and find somebody to write a check.My =point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capable =of being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but = the collector who claims you will have "ruined its value." = =concerned about maximizing your investments, learn about the stock = greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods and guns to = collectors and their notions about what your rod is = pdcorlis@nidc.edu; owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: =Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PMBill, if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored = =how much you 'tart it up'. It could end up a costly mistake that will =only be realized after restoration. There is not too much in the way =of 'good rods' left out there, you only have to look in dealers =catalogues. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) = = having with many guns and rods that have become "collectors = way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. = the American collectors that have insisted upon this. =A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging =over your fireplace mantle is likely to have "market value" = back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose for = (that deserves it) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), =and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of ="value." Good guns = are investors who are playing, not with the guns =or rods, but with the perceived dollar value of =the stuff they accumulate, and with the expectation that the market will = and bonds, but why should those of us who would like to use and =appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by these = and would like to restore it to its original beautiful condition so you =can enjoy its life once again, for God's sake, DO IT! =Cheers, Bill ---------- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020-- from bjust@bellsouth.net Thu Feb 11 21:37:57 1999 WAA13560 Subject: Re: Smithwick style binders I used to work in a plumbing supply store and if I remember correctly wehad rolls of 5/8. It was expensive for a whole roll so your best betwould be to buy scrap pieces from a plumber. In my area the plumbersalways saved the scraps to sell to recyclers so call around and I'm sureyou can find some cheap. Brian Justiss from bjust@bellsouth.net Thu Feb 11 21:51:09 1999 WAA15334 Subject: Re: dowel pins I want to thank everybody for their assistance. Most of you are togenerous, but I really appreciate the help. The only industrial supplycompany in my area only sells to businesses and none of the machineshops were interested in selling to me from their supply, so it lookslike I might have to mailorder. The idea of cutting my own from rodseems like a good idea. Has anyone had any bad experiences doing this oris their a particular way I should go about it? ThanksBrian Justiss from channer@hubwest.com Thu Feb 11 22:04:40 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A8D0155013A; Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:06:40 MST Subject: Re: dowel pins At 09:43 PM 2/11/99 -0600, BRIAN JUSTISS wrote:I want to thank everybody for their assistance. Most of you are togenerous, but I really appreciate the help. The only industrial supplycompany in my area only sells to businesses and none of the machineshops were interested in selling to me from their supply, so it lookslike I might have to mailorder. The idea of cutting my own from rodseems like a good idea. Has anyone had any bad experiences doing this oris their a particular way I should go about it? ThanksBrian Justiss Brian;You can buy boxes of 25 (I think, or maybe its 100, but still not muchmoney) from Enco.John from channer@hubwest.com Thu Feb 11 22:07:21 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A973161013A; Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:09:23 MST Subject: phone number for Hoagy Carmichael Guys;Does anyone happen to know Hoagy's phone number? john from spazz@choice.net Thu Feb 11 22:56:42 1999 XAA18941; Subject: Re: Smithwick style binders All, Thanks for the tips. I found some 5/8 " copper pipe at a local plumbingsupplier that was still a little narrow for the inner diameter of mypulleys...the fix: the supplier had 1 and 2" sections of repair shims forthe same pipe that just so happened to fit snuggly in the pulleys andsecurewith the set screw. Now I've got a copper/copper rotation that is quitesmooth. Apparently the guy was a fisherman because he sort of blew meoffuntil I told him my intended use! thanks again to all Kev BRIAN JUSTISS wrote: I used to work in a plumbing supply store and if I remember correctly wehad rolls of 5/8. It was expensive for a whole roll so your best betwould be to buy scrap pieces from a plumber. In my area the plumbersalways saved the scraps to sell to recyclers so call around and I'm sureyou can find some cheap. Brian Justiss from gespliesst@bluewin.ch Thu Feb 11 23:46:55 1999 with ESMTP id AAA4F68 for ;Fri, 12 Feb 1999 06:44:13 +0100 Subject: Re: restore or not boundary="------------359AB7DC3A90204632B8C19C" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- 359AB7DC3A90204632B8C19C I agree with the thoughts from Bret, two weeks ago i was on afisherman`s Meeting and bought some old Pezon&Michel Parabolic Canerods. All poorly restored, without anyexperience, a "sacrileg", and nothing worth. But for me was good, worthenough regardsStefan --S. Grau`s * atelier edelweiss *Gespliesste Angelruten _ Bamboo RodsAlpine Fliegenfischerschule & GuidingAlpine Flyfishing School & Guiding Brunnadernstr. 11 3006 Berne/SwitzerlandPhone: ++41 (0) 31 352 42 88 ab 19.00 / from 7.pme-mail: gespliesst@bluewin.ch --------------359AB7DC3A90204632B8C19C name="gespliesst.vcf" filename="gespliesst.vcf" begin:vcard n:* atelier edelweiss *;S. Grau`s url:http://members.tripod.com/Bamboorods/default.htmadr:;;Brunnadernstr. 31;Berne;Switzerland;3006;Switzerlandversion:2.1email;internet:gespliesst@bluewin.chfn:Bamboo Rods - gespliesste Angelrutenend:vcard --------------359AB7DC3A90204632B8C19C-- from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Fri Feb 12 00:56:54 1999 (5.5.2232.9) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: dowel pins Brian,cutting your own from rod is an absolute doddle. I have restoredsome classic motorcycles in my time and have had to make my own dowelpinson many occasions. As a matter of fact I don't think I could bring myselfto pay for one these days. Just cut some appropriate sized rod to thedesired length, smooth off the cut edges on a bench grinder (or with afile), and "Hey Presto" you have become the proud new owner of a custommadedowel pin. Good luck and "May the trout be with you" Mike R -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: dowel pins I want to thank everybody for their assistance. Most of you are togenerous, but I really appreciate the help. The only industrial supplycompany in my area only sells to businesses and none of the machineshops were interested in selling to me from their supply, so it lookslike I might have to mailorder. The idea of cutting my own from rodseems like a good idea. Has anyone had any bad experiences doing this oris their a particular way I should go about it? ThanksBrian Justiss from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Fri Feb 12 01:27:45 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:27:13 +0000 Subject: Re: to restore or not to restore; now: greenheart Yes...some British company (I think Partridge) still makes greenheart rods.There is a store in Carmel, California that sells new greenheart fly rods. Another popular wood of days gone by was lancewood. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: was: to restore or not to restore; now: greenheart I've heard of greenheart. There's a wonderful poem in John Engels' bookBig Waters (everybody who loves trout fishing should own and read thisbook) about an old greenheart rod he had. I understand greenheart is akind of wood - does anybopdy build with it any more? What are itsproperties compared to cane? How can it be obtained? Do cane taperswork for it (probably not)? from sniderja@email.uc.edu Fri Feb 12 06:24:39 1999 Subject: "engraving" pens Kevin, I simply use a Rapidiograph 0.35 pen with India ink for lightcolored rods and with white ink for heavily flamed rods. With the former,the varnish I use does not smear the ink at all. With the latter, I usuallycover the white ink with a thin layer of varnish (varthane or some such)applied with a small darning needle, allow to dry, then do the usual finishon the rod. Hope this is of some value.J. Snider. from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Fri Feb 12 08:04:09 1999 Subject: Frank Stetzer's Archive Search Engine Frank,I have not been able to reach the URL that I copied down to get to thesearch engine that you so kindly developed for the archives. Could youplease post the address again?TIADick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net from destinycon@mindspring.com Fri Feb 12 08:56:58 1999 Subject: Re: phone number for Hoagy Carmichael At 09:08 PM 2/11/99 -0700, channer wrote: Guys;Does anyone happen to know Hoagy's phone number? john I don't know how current these numbers are, I haven't called in acoupleyears. I'd try the up-state number first.Salem, NY 914/277-8611NYC (office) 212/764-1850Regards,Gary H. from hexagon@odyssee.net Fri Feb 12 10:00:38 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT E71D9CB780E19369431C545A" --------------E71D9CB780E19369431C545A Bill,If the rod is, say, your rod and you are happy with its performance butwould like it tidied up, then that is a worthwhile project.There is a lot of junk out there that is being restored to 'mintcondition' and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea thatbecause it is split bamboo it must be valuable.Ask any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods arebecoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have areputation to supply good rods to their customersI am not interested in the perceived value of a restored cane rodcompared to a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if storedbadly for a very short time will forever be useless, no matter how ithas been refinished. I would guess that most restored rods do notperform as when it was new.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longerreasonably be used as it was once intended, there is little point infooling with it. At that point, the item has only two potentialvalues -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly thecollectors' value. In the first case one might still restore the itemif he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the second casehe had better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended,DO IT, but do it well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind thecollector who claims you will have "ruined its value." What doesTHIS guy know about value? If you're concerned about maximizing yourinvestments, learn about the stock market. That's a game that willproduce "value," if money is your objective. (And, you'll realizestill greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods and gunsto restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions aboutwhat your rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Terence Ackland Cc: Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time itwill never perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart itup'. It could end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration.There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, youonly have to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret,Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quitewhat were talking about here. The problem I am having with many gunsand rods that have become "collectors items" is their artificiallyinflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual qualitycould justify. Market value that is "there" only if the piece isleft unaltered from its original condition. Better, still, if the gunis unfired or the rod is unfished. And, again, it is chiefly theAmerican collectors that have insisted upon this.A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantle is likely to have "market value" far greater than if that samepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose for which the artifact was built in thefirst place. THIS IS LUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restoreeverything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristine condition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value."Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have itany other way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's adifferent set of considerations altogether. But collectors are oftenneither users of their collections, nor curators. They are investorswho are playing, not with the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff theyaccumulate, and with the expectation that the market will rise. Andit is only in THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having"value." This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why shouldthose of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of ourrods and guns be coerced by these collectors' sense of "value?"Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would liketo restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy itslife once again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers, Bill ---------- --------------E71D9CB780E19369431C545A Bill,If the rod is, say, your rod and you are happy with its performancebut would like it tidied up, then that is a worthwhile project.There is a lot of junk out there that is being restored to 'mintcondition'and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea that because it issplit bamboo it must be valuable.Ask any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods arebecoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have areputation to supply good rods to their customers rod compared to a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if storedbadly for a very short time will forever be useless, no matter how it hasbeen refinished. I would guess that most restored rods do not perform aswhen it was new.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote:Surely, reasonablybe used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with the first case one might still restore the item if he just wantsto admire its former glory, while in the second case he had better justleave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck. Mypoint is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capableof being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but maximizing realize still greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods andguns to restore.) your rod is worth! Cheers,Bill ----------From:Terence Ackland <hexagon@odyssee.net> HARMS1@prodigy.netCc:Grhghlndr@aol.com;pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject:Re: to restore or not/NOTDate:Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,ifa cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it will neverperform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. It couldend up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration.Thereis not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you only haveto look in dealers catalogues.TerryAckland WILLIAMA HARMS wrote: Bret,Well,yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated and inflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality the American collectors that have insisted upon this.Apiece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantle were well-restored and put back into honorable service again --ostensibly,the only purpose for which the artifact was built in the first everything(that deserves it) back to its original, pristine condition (or better),and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of "value."Good are investors who are playing, not with the gunsorrods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why should those of us whowould like to use and appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns becoerced Bottom restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers,Bill ---------- --------------E71D9CB780E19369431C545A-- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Fri Feb 12 10:51:04 1999 Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:47:30 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT I guess if it's your rod you can do as you please but if it's not to befished what's the point?When ever I see this thread or similar I always cast back in my memory towhen I was a kid working for a gunsmith who had a punter bring in an olddamascus barreled shotgun, it may have been an old Greener. The gunsmithtold the guy to leave it alone and let it age gracefuly particually as itwasn't abused and still had a good finish with honest use showingas well as the fear someone may try using it with a 3" mag shell but theguy wanted it "done up".The job was done profesionaly but I thought it looked like my grandad haddressed up for Friday night's disco. Especially the new gold sight bead. Tony On Fri, 12 Feb 1999, Terence Ackland wrote: Bill,If the rod is, say, your rod and you are happy with its performance butwould like it tidied up, then that is a worthwhile project.There is a lot of junk out there that is being restored to 'mintcondition' and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea thatbecause it is split bamboo it must be valuable.Ask any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods arebecoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have areputation to supply good rods to their customersI am not interested in the perceived value of a restored cane rodcompared to a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if storedbadly for a very short time will forever be useless, no matter how ithas been refinished. I would guess that most restored rods do notperform as when it was new.Terry Ackland Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longerreasonably be used as it was once intended, there is little point infooling with it. At that point, the item has only two potentialvalues -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly thecollectors' value. In the first case one might still restore the itemif he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the second casehe had better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended,DO IT, but do it well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind thecollector who claims you will have "ruined its value." What doesTHIS guy know about value? If you're concerned about maximizing yourinvestments, learn about the stock market. That's a game that willproduce "value," if money is your objective. (And, you'll realizestill greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods and gunsto restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions aboutwhat your rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Terence Ackland Cc: Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time itwill never perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tartitup'. It could end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration.There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, youonly have to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret,Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quitewhat were talking about here. The problem I am having with many gunsand rods that have become "collectors items" is their artificiallyinflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual qualitycould justify. Market value that is "there" only if the piece isleft unaltered from its original condition. Better, still, if the gunis unfired or the rod is unfished. And, again, it is chiefly theAmerican collectors that have insisted upon this.A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantle is likely to have "market value" far greater than if that samepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose for which the artifact was built in thefirst place. THIS IS LUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restoreeverything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristine condition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value."Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have itany other way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's adifferent set of considerations altogether. But collectors are oftenneither users of their collections, nor curators. They are investorswho are playing, not with the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff theyaccumulate, and with the expectation that the market will rise. Andit is only in THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having"value." This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why shouldthose of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of ourrods and guns be coerced by these collectors' sense of "value?"Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would liketo restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy itslife once again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers, Bill ---------- /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from TChafor@wavetech.com Fri Feb 12 12:01:14 1999 (IMA Internet Exchange 2.1 Enterprise) id 00079646; Fri, 12 Feb 9911:37:48 -0600 , Subject: Re[2]: to restore or not/NOT --IMA.Boundary.860148819 = = Going back to the original rod in question = = some more info= It was purchased last week from a rod dealer for only =A325. = = The handle is in good condition with little sign of wearThe blank is in good condition with no signs of fracture etc.The ferrules are in excellent condition and i believe to be original= = The guides are for the most part good with some superficial = corrosion/tarnishing= However,The wraps are deterioratingThe varnish is very flaky and therefore causing the wraps to move= and over time they would only get worse.= I think that it could be restored using only the original fittings. = = Thanks for all the advise= = Tim= = ______________________________ Reply Separator__________________________=_______Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTAuthor: HARMS1@prodigy.net at Internet = = = Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonably== be used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with it==2E = At that point, the item has only two potential values -- either = first case one might still restore the item if he just wants to admire it=s = former glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thing== alone and find somebody to write a check.= My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capable== of being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but d=o = it well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind the collector who = claims you will have "ruined its value." What does THIS guy know about== value? If you're concerned about maximizing your investments, learnabou=t = the stock market. That's a game that will produce "value," if money is = your objective. (And, you'll realize still greater profits with which to== buy still MORE good rods and guns to restore.) = = See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions about wha=t = your rod is worth!= Cheers, Bill= = ---------- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.ed=u; = rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT = Bill, = if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it will = never perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. It== could end up a costly mistake that will only be realized after restoratio=n.= There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you only = have to look in dealers catalogues. = Terry Ackland = = WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: = Bret, = Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be = depreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quite wh=at = were talking about here. The problem I am having with many guns androds== that have become "collectors items" is their artificially inflated valu=e = -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. Market== value that is "there" only if the piece is left unaltered from its = original condition. Better, still, if the gun is unfired or the rod is = unfished. And, again, it is chiefly the American collectors that have = insisted upon this. = A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantle== is likely to have "market value" far greater than if that same piece wer=e = well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, th=e = only purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. THIS =IS = LUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restore everything (that deserves== it) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), and TO HELL wit=h = the collectors' stupid notions of "value." = Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have it any== other way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's a different se=t = of considerations altogether. But collectors are often neither users of== their collections, nor curators. They are investors who are playing, not== with the guns = or rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate=, = and with the expectation that the market will rise. And it is only in T=HAT = sense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." This is appropriate== d = appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by these collectors=' = sense of "value?" = Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like to== restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its life = once again, for God's sake, DO IT! = Cheers, Bill = = ---------- = --IMA.Boundary.860148819 whatever) can no longer reasonably be used as it was once intended, thereis potential values -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly the theitem if he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the second casehehad better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck.My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and itseemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT,but collector who claims you will have "ruined its value." concernedabout maximizing your investments, learn about thhe stock market. objective. MORE worth!Cheers, Bill----------From: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate:Thursday,February 11, 1999 4:49 PMBill,ifa cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it will neverperform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. It couldend upa costly mistake that will only be realized after restoration. There isnottoo much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you only have to look indealers catalogues. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes, apoorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated in value. talking have inflatedvalue -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality couldjustify. left collectors that have insisted upon this. Apiece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantle is samepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose forr which the artifact was built in the first restore everything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristinecondition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value." Good guns andgood rods of users of notwith the guns or rods, but with theperceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, and with theexpectation the forstocks and bonds, but why should those of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by these collectors'senseof "value?" Bottom line: you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like to restore it to itsoriginal beautiful condition so you can enjoy its life once again, for God'ssake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill---------- --IMA.Boundary.860148819 headers" with SMTP(IMA Internet Exchange 2.1 Enterprise) id 00079395; Fri, 12 Feb 9907:37:01-0600 ext.prodigy.net VAA128346;Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:04:53 -0500 , Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOT boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020" --IMA.Boundary.860148819-- from HARMS1@prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 15:12:59 1999 ext.prodigy.net QAA95070;Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:12:50 -0500 , Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOT =_NextPart_000_01BE56A2.64AE7C80" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE56A2.64AE7C80 Right again, Terry. The simple truth is that at no time in the history ofrodmaking have rods been built as well as they are today -- and, with alldue immodesty, by the likes of almost ANY OF US. So, really, why screwaround at all with old, used rods if really good casting, combined withsheer aesthetic beauty is what one has in mind. And you are also surely correct that there are precious few really good oldrods "out there." Many old rods were truly wonderful in their day, butvery likely, they are no longer. Or, again, even if they are, they stillwouldn't compare to duplicating that taper and building its replicaYOURSELF. (Not so on any of the above counts, however, with guns. There are stillmany, many wonderful old guns that want only some good restorationwork.) Cheers, Bill---------- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT Bill, If the rod is, say, your rod and you are happy with its performance butwould like it tidied up, then that is a worthwhile project. There is a lot of junk out there that is being restored to 'mint condition'and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea that because it issplit bamboo it must be valuable. Ask any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods arebecoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have areputation to supply good rods to their customers I am not interested in the perceived value of a restored cane rodcomparedto a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if stored badly for a veryshort time will forever be useless, no matter how it has been refinished. Iwould guess that most restored rods do not perform as when it was new. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonablybe used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with it. At that point, the item has only two potential values -- either first case one might still restore the item if he just wants to admire itsformer glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thingalone and find somebody to write a check. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capableof being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but doit well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind the collector whoclaims you will have "ruined its value." What does THIS guy know aboutvalue? If you're concerned about maximizing your investments, learnaboutthe stock market. That's a game that will produce "value," if money isyour objective. (And, you'll realize still greater profits with which tobuy still MORE good rods and guns to restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions about whatyour rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ---------- simple truth is that at no time in the history of rodmaking have =rods been built as well as they are today -- and, with all due = =around at all with old, used rods if really good casting, combined with =sheer aesthetic beauty is what one has in mind.And you are also =surely correct that there are precious few really good old rods = = they are, they still wouldn't compare to duplicating that taper and =building its replica YOURSELF.(Not so on any of the above = old guns that want only some good restoration work.)Cheers, =Bill---------- From: Terence Ackland = pdcorlis@nidc.edu; owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: =Friday, February 12, 1999 8:02 AMBill, If the rod is, say, your rod and you are =happy with its performance but would like it tidied up, then that is a =worthwhile project. There is a lot of junk out there that is being =restored to 'mint condition' and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have =the idea that because it is split bamboo it must be valuable. Ask =any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods are =becoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have a =reputation to supply good rods to their customers I am not = to a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if stored badly for a =very short time will forever be useless, no matter how it has been =refinished. I would guess that most restored rods do not perform as when=it was new. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: whatever) can no longer reasonably be used as it was once intended, = has only two potential values -- either sentimental/historical value or = still restore the item if he just wants to admire its former =glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thing alone =and find somebody to write a check. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it =seems capable of being restored to the use for which it was once = = realize still greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods and =guns to restore.) See? Life can= rod is worth! Cheers, =Bill ----------=From: Terence Ackland<hexagon@odyssee.net ------=_NextPart_000_01BE56A2.64AE7C80-- from HARMS1@prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 15:21:53 1999 ext.prodigy.net QAA191932;Fri, 12 Feb 1999 16:19:57 -0500 "Terence Ackland" , Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOT =_NextPart_000_01BE56A3.67D62CE0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE56A3.67D62CE0 Yeah, Tony, there will always be a lot of drips out there who don't knowwhat they're doing -- or what item deserves what kind of work. In all mycomments, I have been assuming that one knows what one is about, andthathe is also capable of good work. I guess I just don't have much to say to(or about) the others. They're "on their own." Cheers, Bill----------From: Tony Young Cc: HARMS1@prodigy.net; Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Friday, February 12, 1999 8:47 AM I guess if it's your rod you can do as you please but if it's not to befished what's the point?When ever I see this thread or similar I always cast back in my memorytowhen I was a kid working for a gunsmith who had a punter bring in an olddamascus barreled shotgun, it may have been an old Greener. Thegunsmithtold the guy to leave it alone and let it age gracefuly particually as itwasn't abused and still had a good finish with honest use showingas well as the fear someone may try using it with a 3" mag shell but theguy wanted it "done up".The job was done profesionaly but I thought it looked like my grandadhaddressed up for Friday night's disco. Especially the new gold sight bead. Tony On Fri, 12 Feb 1999, Terence Ackland wrote: Bill,If the rod is, say, your rod and you are happy with its performance butwould like it tidied up, then that is a worthwhile project.There is a lot of junk out there that is being restored to 'mintcondition' and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea thatbecause it is split bamboo it must be valuable.Ask any dealer and they will tell you that quality used cane rods arebecoming very scarce and it is becoming difficult for those that have areputation to supply good rods to their customersI am not interested in the perceived value of a restored cane rodcompared to a scruffy original. I believe that cane rods, if storedbadly for a very short time will forever be useless, no matter how ithas been refinished. I would guess that most restored rods do notperform as when it was new.Terry Ackland Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longerreasonably be used as it was once intended, there is little point infooling with it. At that point, the item has only two potential> > >values -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly thecollectors' value. In the first case one might still restore theitemif he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the second casehe had better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended,DO IT, but do it well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind thecollector who claims you will have "ruined its value." What doesTHIS guy know about value? If you're concerned about maximizingyourinvestments, learn about the stock market. That's a game that willproduce "value," if money is your objective. (And, you'll realizestill greater profits with which to buy still MORE good rods and gunsto restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions aboutwhat your rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Terence Ackland Cc: Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu;owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time itwill never perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tartitup'. It could end up a costly mistake that will only be realizedafterrestoration.There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, youonly have to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret,Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's notquitewhat were talking about here. The problem I am having with manygunsand rods that have become "collectors items" is their artificiallyinflated value -- value way, way beyond what their actual qualitycould justify. Market value that is "there" only if the piece isleft unaltered from its original condition. Better, still, if thegunis unfired or the rod is unfished. And, again, it is chiefly theAmerican collectors that have insisted upon this.A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantle is likely to have "market value" far greater than if thatsamepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again - -ostensibly, the only purpose for which the artifact was built in thefirst place. THIS IS LUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. Irestoreeverything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristinecondition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value."Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have itany other way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's adifferent set of considerations altogether. But collectors areoftenneither users of their collections, nor curators. They are investorswho are playing, not with the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff theyaccumulate, and with the expectation that the market will rise. Andit is only in THAT sense that the artifacts are seen as having"value." This is appropriate for stocks and bonds, but why shouldthose of us who would like to use and appreciate the beauty of ourrods and guns be coerced by these collectors' sense of "value?"Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and wouldliketo restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoyitslife once again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers, Bill ---------- /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/------=_NextPart_000_01BE56A3.67D62CE0 Yeah, Tony, there willalways =be a lot of drips out there who don't know what they're doing -- or what = =Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu; = guess if it's your rod you can do as you please but if it's not to = = told the guy to leave it alone and let it age gracefuly particually as = condition' and sold to unsuspecting fishermen who have the idea = badly for a very short time will forever be useless, no matter how = who claims you will have "ruined its value." = value? = = There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, = Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would = = = accumulate, and with the expectation that the market will rise. = restore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy = /***********************************************************************/= = /***********************************************************************/= ------=_NextPart_000_01BE56A3.67D62CE0-- from hexagon@odyssee.net Fri Feb 12 15:36:40 1999 owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu, rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT Tim,if you have purchased a 'fixer upper' from a dealer and are prepared to putthe workin yourself you will have a lot of fun and possibly a fishable rod at theend ofit.You did not pay very much for the rod and cannot expect it to be a qualityrod whenfinished. If on the other hand you had purchased that same rod but it hadbeen'renovated' for,say, $500 there would have been a problem.The dealer with his reputation to consider obviously thought the rod notworth theprice of renovating and let it go cheap.There are 'restorers' around that pick up all sorts of old rods and passthem off aquality rods after a little work.Antique dealers seem to have the idea that any old cane rod is worth afortune, justbecause it is cane. I once saw one of those cheap Japanese combinationrods thatcame in a wooden box being sold for $300 in an antique shop.I think, in the market today there is more chances of getting screwed thanbeingable to pick up a bargain especially if you purchase from an Antiques fairratherthan from a dealer.Realistically, it would be better to buy a new rod from a contemporarymaker if youare looking for a cane rod you will enjoy fishing with.T.Ackland Tim Chafor wrote: Going back to the original rod in question some more info It was purchased last week from a rod dealer for only £25. The handle is in good condition with little sign of wearThe blank is in good condition with no signs of fracture etc.The ferrules are in excellent condition and i believe to be original The guides are for the most part good with some superficialcorrosion/tarnishing However,The wraps are deterioratingThe varnish is very flaky and therefore causing the wraps to move and over time they would only get worse. I think that it could be restored using only the original fittings. Thanks for all the advise Tim ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTAuthor: HARMS1@prodigy.net at InternetDate: 11/02/99 21:03 Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonablybe used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with it.At that point, the item has only two potential values -- eithersentimental/historical value or possibly the collectors' value. In thefirst case one might still restore the item if he just wants to admire itsformer glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thingalone and find somebody to write a check. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capableof being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but doit well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind the collector whoclaims you will have "ruined its value." What does THIS guy know aboutvalue? If you're concerned about maximizing your investments, learnaboutthe stock market. That's a game that will produce "value," if money isyour objective. (And, you'll realize still greater profits with which tobuy still MORE good rods and guns to restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions aboutwhatyour rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Terence Ackland Cc: Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu; owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willnever perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'.Itcould end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration. There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you onlyhave to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote:Bret,Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quitewhatwere talking about here. The problem I am having with many guns androdsthat have become "collectors items" is their artificially inflated value-- value way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. Marketvalue that is "there" only if the piece is left unaltered from itsoriginal condition. Better, still, if the gun is unfired or the rod isunfished. And, again, it is chiefly the American collectors that haveinsisted upon this.A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantleis likely to have "market value" far greater than if that same piece werewell-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly,theonly purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. THIS ISLUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restore everything (that deservesit) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), and TO HELL withthe collectors' stupid notions of "value."Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have it anyother way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's a different setof considerations altogether. But collectors are often neither users oftheir collections, nor curators. They are investors who are playing, notwith the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate,and with the expectation that the market will rise. And it is only inTHATsense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." This is appropriate andappreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors'sense of "value?"Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like torestore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers, Bill ---------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ whatever) can no longer reasonably be used as it was once intended,there is potential values -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly the theitem if he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the secondcase hehad better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck.My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and itseemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DOIT, but thecollector who claims you will have "ruined its value." you're concernedabout maximizing your investments, learn about thhe stock market. objective. MORE good. worth!Cheers, Bill----------From: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu color="#008080">Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate:Thursday,February 11, 1999 4:49 PMBill, >ifa cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willneverperform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. Itcould end upa costly mistake that will only be realized after restoration. Thereis nottoo much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you only have to look indealers catalogues. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes,apoorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated invalue. talking have inflatedvalue -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality couldjustify. left Americancollectors that have insisted upon this. Apiece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantleis samepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose forr which the artifact was built in thefirst restore everything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristinecondition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value." Good guns andgood rods set of users of playing, notwith the guns or rods, but with theperceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, and with theexpectation the appropriate forstocks and bonds, but why should those of us who would like to use andappreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors' senseof "value?" Bottom line: you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like to restore it to itsoriginal beautiful condition so you can enjoy its life once again, forGod'ssake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill---------- color="#000000"> ont> ------------------------------------------------------------------------Received: from wugate.wustl.edu (128.252.120.1) by mlhst.wavetech.comwith SMTP(IMA Internet Exchange 2.1 Enterprise) id 00079395; Fri, 12 Feb 9907:37:01-0600 Received: from virtualmaster3-int.prodigy.net (virtualmaster3-ext.prodigy.net VAA128346;Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:04:53 -0500Message-Id: Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:03:56 -0800 Sender: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduFrom: "WILLIAM A HARMS" Cc: , ,, Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTMIME-Version: 1.0Content-Type: multipart/alternative;boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020"Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bitX- MSMail-Priority: NormalX-Priority: 3X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1155X-Listprocessor-Version: 8.0 -- ListProcessor(tm) by CREN from BThoman@neonsoft.com Fri Feb 12 15:53:35 1999 Subject: First time using Nyatex I've built most of my rods using G2 epoxy and I noticed some observationsbetween the two that I thought I'd pass along. Maybe those who've useddifferent glues can tell their likes and dislikes of particular glues. The first thing I noticed was the consistency of the glue when mixed. G2ismuch thicker and the strips stay together when formed in the hex withoutanypressure. The pieces of tape are a pain to get off but there's no chance ofa strip flipping when binding. As a matter of fact, the instructions forglue say not to use any clamping, although I've never tried it. I bound allmy rods by hand when using the G2 and it was extremely easy. The gluedblanks are completely dry (not tacky) after one day and the binding stringcomes off very easily even after being heat treated. The manufacturer isinCanada and they said to heat treat at 120 degrees F, so it's obvious it willnot take the heat that Nyatex will. The glue is more difficult to sand orfile off of the blank than Nyatex and is definitely more difficult to heatstraighten. The Nyatex is more liquid and therefore more difficult to bind. I didn'tbind by hand but used my newly made Garrison style binder. The tape wasmuch easier to remove. I found the Nyatex to be more difficult tostraighten when wet. I removed the binding string the next day (the gluewas still very tacky) rebound it by hand and heat treated at 200 degrees F sanded off the glue. This was a breeze as was heat straightening thesections. I'd have to say that the G2 is much easier to use when gluing and bindingbut much more difficult to deal with after the glue dries. Nyatex makesafter gluing a cinch. I have some Shell Epon I plan on using and it's myunderstanding that it's properties are very comparable to the G2. I thinkit takes heat a bit better but still less than Nyatex, although I'm noexpert. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from rclarke@eou.edu Fri Feb 12 15:57:25 1999 13:56:38 -0800 Tim Chafor "Grhghlndr@aol.com","pdcorlis@nidc.edu" ,"owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: to restore or not/NOT Chris McDowell and I witnessed an old Hardy in an antique shop go from$1200 to $600 to $300in a few days. Even at that it was more than I wanted to spend. Value iswhatever they canget for it, I guess. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu -----Original Message----- owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOT Tim,if you have purchased a 'fixer upper' from a dealer and are prepared to putthe workin yourself you will have a lot of fun and possibly a fishable rod at theend ofit.You did not pay very much for the rod and cannot expect it to be a qualityrod whenfinished. If on the other hand you had purchased that same rod but it hadbeen'renovated' for,say, $500 there would have been a problem.The dealer with his reputation to consider obviously thought the rod notworth theprice of renovating and let it go cheap.There are 'restorers' around that pick up all sorts of old rods and passthem off aquality rods after a little work.Antique dealers seem to have the idea that any old cane rod is worth afortune, justbecause it is cane. I once saw one of those cheap Japanese combinationrods thatcame in a wooden box being sold for $300 in an antique shop.I think, in the market today there is more chances of getting screwed thanbeingable to pick up a bargain especially if you purchase from an Antiques fairratherthan from a dealer.Realistically, it would be better to buy a new rod from a contemporarymaker if youare looking for a cane rod you will enjoy fishing with.T.Ackland Tim Chafor wrote: Going back to the original rod in question some more info It was purchased last week from a rod dealer for only £25. The handle is in good condition with little sign of wearThe blank is in good condition with no signs of fracture etc.The ferrules are in excellent condition and i believe to be original The guides are for the most part good with some superficialcorrosion/tarnishing However,The wraps are deterioratingThe varnish is very flaky and therefore causing the wraps to move and over time they would only get worse. I think that it could be restored using only the original fittings. Thanks for all the advise Tim ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTAuthor: HARMS1@prodigy.net at InternetDate: 11/02/99 21:03 Surely, Terry. If the rod or gun (or whatever) can no longer reasonablybe used as it was once intended, there is little point in fooling with it.At that point, the item has only two potential values -- eithersentimental/historical value or possibly the collectors' value. In thefirst case one might still restore the item if he just wants to admire itsformer glory, while in the second case he had better just leave the thingalone and find somebody to write a check. My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and it seems capableof being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DO IT, but doit well! Then USE it , and enjoy! And never mind the collector whoclaims you will have "ruined its value." What does THIS guy know aboutvalue? If you're concerned about maximizing your investments, learnaboutthe stock market. That's a game that will produce "value," if money isyour objective. (And, you'll realize still greater profits with which tobuy still MORE good rods and guns to restore.) See? Life can be good. Screw the collectors and their notions aboutwhatyour rod is worth! Cheers, Bill ----------From: Terence Ackland Cc: Grhghlndr@aol.com; pdcorlis@nidc.edu; owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate: Thursday, February 11, 1999 4:49 PM Bill,if a cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willnever perform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'.Itcould end up a costly mistake that will only be realized afterrestoration. There is not too much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you onlyhave to look in dealers catalogues.Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote:Bret,Well, yes, a poorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would bedepreciated in value. That goes without saying. But that's not quitewhatwere talking about here. The problem I am having with many guns androdsthat have become "collectors items" is their artificially inflated value-- value way, way beyond what their actual quality could justify. Marketvalue that is "there" only if the piece is left unaltered from itsoriginal condition. Better, still, if the gun is unfired or the rod isunfished. And, again, it is chiefly the American collectors that haveinsisted upon this.A piece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplacemantleis likely to have "market value" far greater than if that same piece werewell-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly,theonly purpose for which the artifact was built in the first place. THIS ISLUNACY!!! And I won't stand for it. I restore everything (that deservesit) back to its original, pristine condition (or better), and TO HELL withthe collectors' stupid notions of "value."Good guns and good rods are meant to be used, and I wouldn't have it anyother way. Now, if you are a museum curator, then that's a different setof considerations altogether. But collectors are often neither users oftheir collections, nor curators. They are investors who are playing, notwith the gunsor rods, but with the perceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate,and with the expectation that the market will rise. And it is only inTHATsense that the artifacts are seen as having "value." This is appropriate andappreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors'sense of "value?"Bottom line: If you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like torestore it to its original beautiful condition so you can enjoy its lifeonce again, for God's sake, DO IT!Cheers, Bill ---------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ whatever) can no longer reasonably be used as it was once intended,there is potential values -- either sentimental/historical value or possibly the theitem if he just wants to admire its former glory, while in the secondcase hehad better just leave the thing alone and find somebody to write acheck.My point is that if you have a rod or a gun you love and itseemscapable of being restored to the use for which it was once intended, DOIT, but thecollector who claims you will have "ruined its value." you're concernedabout maximizing your investments, learn about thhe stock market. objective. MORE good. worth!Cheers, Bill----------From: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu color="#008080">Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTDate:Thursday,February 11, 1999 4:49 PMBill, >ifa cane fishing rod has been badly stored for a period of time it willneverperform as when it was new, no matter how much you 'tart it up'. Itcould end upa costly mistake that will only be realized after restoration. Thereis nottoo much in the way of 'good rods' left out there, you only have to look indealers catalogues. Terry Ackland WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Bret, Well, yes,apoorly restored gun or rod (or anything else) would be depreciated invalue. talking have inflatedvalue -- value way, way beyond what their actual quality couldjustify. left Americancollectors that have insisted upon this. Apiece of unaltered and unusable junk hanging over your fireplace mantleis samepiece were well-restored and put back into honorable service again -- ostensibly, the only purpose forr which the artifact was built in thefirst restore everything (that deserves it) back to its original, pristinecondition(or better), and TO HELL with the collectors' stupid notions of"value." Good guns andgood rods set of users of playing, notwith the guns or rods, but with theperceived dollar value of the stuff they accumulate, and with theexpectation the appropriate forstocks and bonds, but why should those of us who would like to use andappreciate the beauty of our rods and guns be coerced by thesecollectors' senseof "value?" Bottom line: you have a rod or a gun that you love, and would like to restore it to itsoriginal beautiful condition so you can enjoy its life once again, forGod'ssake, DO IT! Cheers, Bill---------- color="#000000"> ont> ------------------------------------------------------------------------Received: from wugate.wustl.edu (128.252.120.1) by mlhst.wavetech.comwith SMTP(IMA Internet Exchange 2.1 Enterprise) id 00079395; Fri, 12 Feb 9907:37:01-0600 Received: from virtualmaster3-int.prodigy.net (virtualmaster3-ext.prodigy.net VAA128346;Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:04:53 -0500Message-Id: Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:03:56 -0800 Sender: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduFrom: "WILLIAM A HARMS" Cc: , ,, Subject: Re: to restore or not/NOTMIME-Version: 1.0Content-Type: multipart/alternative;boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BE5602.09A23020"Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bitX- MSMail-Priority: NormalX-Priority: 3X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1155X-Listprocessor-Version: 8.0 -- ListProcessor(tm) by CREN from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Fri Feb 12 16:40:01 1999 16:40:16 -0600 R8.30.00.7) Subject: calling all motor gurus Since I am far from an electronics or electric motor guru I thought I'd put out a call for any help anyone might be able to give me on this. I have a source for 3 step motors I want to use in various places in my rodmaking equipage. These are from antiquated scientific equipment that is to be junked. The problem is that I am not sure how to go about hooking these motors up and setting up a speed control rheostat. Maybe one of you could help. The motors are Superior electric slo-syn synchronous/stepping motors. The stats on the back read 200 oz.in; 200 steps/rev; 2.5 V; 4.6 A; DCThere are 6 wires coming off the motor. Any suggestions on a practical way to set up or obtain a power source that would be appropriate to use with these motors? This may be a real dumb question so don't hesitate to say so :-0 The electronics that is currently attached to them is pretty big so I would like to discard it if possible.ThanksJon McAnulty from FISHWOOL@aol.com Fri Feb 12 17:00:27 1999 Subject: modified 3 wgt taper All,There have been several requests for the 3 wgt taper I modified from7'9"to 71/2'. I use weight forward lines FWIW.0"-.062, 5"-.064, 10"- .083, 15"-.100, 20"-.116, 25"-.130, 30"-.142,35"-.158, 40"-.172, 45"-.184, 50"-.198, 55"-.212, 60"-.224, 65"-.238,70"-.252, 75"-.266, 80"-.280, 90"- .280 + or -.Have fun.Hank W. from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Fri Feb 12 17:05:39 1999 with SMTP(MDaemon.v2.7.SP6b.R) for ; Fri, 12 Feb1999 18:07:41 -0500 Subject: Gathering Information Needed Does anyone have a comprehensive list of all the gatherings alreadyscheduled for 1999? I live in TN not too far from Gatlinburg, and wouldlove to organize a gathering there. I know that the FFF conclave isscheduled for August, but it will be a zoo then and I believe that agathering of rodmakers would be better at an earlier or later date. Thanks in advance Joe Byrd (aka JoeBoy) from hexagon@odyssee.net Fri Feb 12 18:10:52 1999 Subject: Re: First time using Nyatex I think it was your new binder and not the adhesive that made wetstraighteningmore difficult. The Garrison binder, from my experience put far to muchpressureon the cord for the tip section using the recommended weight. Thoman, Brian wrote: I've built most of my rods using G2 epoxy and I noticed someobservationsbetween the two that I thought I'd pass along. Maybe those who've useddifferent glues can tell their likes and dislikes of particular glues. The first thing I noticed was the consistency of the glue when mixed. G2ismuch thicker and the strips stay together when formed in the hexwithout anypressure. The pieces of tape are a pain to get off but there's no chanceofa strip flipping when binding. As a matter of fact, the instructions forglue say not to use any clamping, although I've never tried it. I bound allmy rods by hand when using the G2 and it was extremely easy. The gluedblanks are completely dry (not tacky) after one day and the bindingstringcomes off very easily even after being heat treated. The manufacturer isinCanada and they said to heat treat at 120 degrees F, so it's obvious itwillnot take the heat that Nyatex will. The glue is more difficult to sand orfile off of the blank than Nyatex and is definitely more difficult to heatstraighten. The Nyatex is more liquid and therefore more difficult to bind. I didn'tbind by hand but used my newly made Garrison style binder. The tapewasmuch easier to remove. I found the Nyatex to be more difficult tostraighten when wet. I removed the binding string the next day (the gluewas still very tacky) rebound it by hand and heat treated at 200 degreesF sanded off the glue. This was a breeze as was heat straightening thesections. I'd have to say that the G2 is much easier to use when gluing and bindingbut much more difficult to deal with after the glue dries. Nyatex makesafter gluing a cinch. I have some Shell Epon I plan on using and it's myunderstanding that it's properties are very comparable to the G2. I thinkit takes heat a bit better but still less than Nyatex, although I'm noexpert. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from jaquin@netsync.net Fri Feb 12 20:44:34 1999 quartz.netsync.net(8.9.2/8.6.12) with SMTP id VAA19826; Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:43:56 -0500 Subject: Re: dowel pins channer wrote: At 09:43 PM 2/11/99 -0600, BRIAN JUSTISS wrote:I want to thank everybody for their assistance. Most of you are togenerous, but I really appreciate the help. The only industrial supplycompany in my area only sells to businesses and none of the machineshops were interested in selling to me from their supply, so it lookslike I might have to mailorder. The idea of cutting my own from rodseems like a good idea. Has anyone had any bad experiences doing this oris their a particular way I should go about it? ThanksBrian Justiss Brian;You can buy boxes of 25 (I think, or maybe its 100, but still not muchmoney) from Enco.Johnhi john, sometime ago there was a post that Enco went out of business. i haven't received a catalog from them for quite some time now. ifBrian can't find dowel pins from w. w. grainger, Mcmaster-carr mailorder houses, he maybe able to buy some drill rod where he bought hisC.r.s. and cut his own pins.grainger erie,pa 1-814-456-4570 mcm-c cleveland 1-330-995-5500jerry from flyh2o@worldnet.att.net Fri Feb 12 22:52:23 1999 mtiwmhc04.worldnet.att.net(InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Subject: Impregnated Rods My first cane rod(purchased late 60s) was an impregnated Farlow andlater Igot an Orvis. Never knew what they were impregnated with, but heard atonepoint that some kind of bakelite resin was used. One tip on the Orviswould regularly take a nasty set. In the prior discussion on impregnated rods, nobody discussed/revealedwhatis/was being used to impregnate rods. Is it a proprietary secret of somesort? Terry? A.J.? Don't you guys currently impregnate some rods? Whatdid Orvis, Phillipson and Wright and McGill use? How about T&T?Mike Leitheiser "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane from mrmac@tcimet.net Fri Feb 12 23:32:19 1999 Subject: Re: calling all motor gurus Jon, that motor, a stepping motor, has 4 windings that must besequentiallyenergized in a sequence that then causes them to "step" forward orbackwarddepending on the sequence that you use. As stated, that motor has 200stepsper revolution (1.8*/step), although there are tricks of the trade that cancoax smaller increments if you feel like getting fancy. Typically, as thenameplate indicates, these motors require low voltage (2.5VDC), andrelativelyhigh current (4.6A). The six wires are connected internally in the motorsuchthat three of them connect to each end and the joined middle of two of thewindings, and the other three similarly connect to the other two windings-like this (if I can do this with type): hmmmhmmmd and hmmmhmmmd. The power source will need to be low volts, high current, with highcurrentbeing the important part to achieve the rated torque. Higher voltagepowersupplies can be used, but then in-series voltage dropping resistors (andtheywill need to be quite high power rating) will need to be used; I'm not surewhere you can pick these up cheaply. The "pretty big" electronics soundslikeit may well be the power supply you need. If it is "real heavy", it isprobably the power supply. It may be the stepping controls to sequencetheenergization of the windings, though, in which case you would need toprovidethe DC power supply. Typically, a stepper controller has one input for a pulse train in, and has asecond input which controls direction. These inputs would likely besomethinglike 0 - 12 VDC would be my guess. The rheostat approach to speedcontrol isnot how these motors operate, or at least not with the rheostat directlyconnected to the motor. There may be a way to operate these more simply in the synchronousmotor mode,but I am less familiar with that approach, and perhaps someone else maybe ableto suggest it. Operating in the stepper motor mode, rodmaking uses don'tseemto me to be the kind of typical application for the motors since they step,step, step as opposed to smooth continuous motion, and their powerrequirements, especially the relatively high amperage, make themcumbersome 110VAC, low current motors from sources that have been discussed in thelist ormay be in the archives. Hope this helps ya some. mac mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu wrote: Since I am far from an electronics or electric motor guru I thoughtI'd put out a call for any help anyone might be able to give me onthis. I have a source for 3 step motors I want to use in variousplaces in my rodmaking equipage. These are from antiquatedscientificequipment that is to be junked. The problem is that I am not sure howto go about hooking these motors up and setting up a speed controlrheostat. Maybe one of you could help. The motors are Superior electric slo-syn synchronous/steppingmotors.The stats on the back read 200 oz.in; 200 steps/rev; 2.5 V; 4.6 A; DCThere are 6 wires coming off the motor. Any suggestions on a practical way to set up or obtain a power sourcethat would be appropriate to use with these motors? This may be arealdumb question so don't hesitate to say so :-0 The electronics that iscurrently attached to them is pretty big so I would like to discard itif possible.ThanksJon McAnulty from bjust@bellsouth.net Sat Feb 13 00:42:32 1999 BAA18719 Subject: Re: dowel pins Thanks everyone. I have a Grainger in my area, but they said they onlysell to business. A guy I know has an account with them and I could gethim to get me some. Thanks for all the offers of sending me some, butthat seems like alot of trouble if cutting my own will work. I've gotsome 1/4 rod and am going to try and cut and grind some this weekend. Brian Justiss from chris@artistree.com Sat Feb 13 01:23:04 1999 Subject: Re: dowel pins mac-creator="4D4F5353" F.Y.I. - ENCO did not go out of business. What they did do was close alltheirstores and have gone strictly mail-order. They are now based in Nevada(CarsonCity I think). Same phone number. Ordered some things from them in Dec.Newcatalog is taking longer due to the reorganization and is expected in April. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com hi john, sometime ago there was a post that Enco went out of business.i haven't received a catalog from them for quite some time now. ifBrian can't find dowel pins from w. w. grainger, Mcmaster-carr mailorder houses, he maybe able to buy some drill rod where he bought hisC.r.s. and cut his own pins.grainger erie,pa 1-814-456-4570 mcm-c cleveland 1-330-995-5500jerry from gaff@carol.net Sat Feb 13 06:07:22 1999 0500Message-ID: Subject: rough planing form hey guys,i want to make a rough planing form. i thought i saw some plans, butcan't locate them now.grateful for any help.thanks,wil from OBorge@aiss.uic.edu Sat Feb 13 07:38:57 1999 Subject: Olaf Borge will be in San Francisco RODMAKERS, I will be in San Francisco from Sat. Feb. 20th until Sat. the 27th. I would like to meet with any cane rod builders or wannabe'swho live near by, to drink, eat, talk cane/fish etc. I have yet to finish a rod but have several started. I have justbound and heat treated untapered strips for several one piece 60" rods.I Own a Morgan Mill and all the other hardware needed. I am currentlytuning the finish anvils for my mill. I will be staying at the S.F. Hilton and Towers 333 O'farrell St. I am attending The SHARE Conference. A gathering of IBMMain Frame System programmers. My schedule will be adjustablebut I won't know what I will really want to attend until I see theprogram. Let email if there is any intereste. Olaf BorgeSystems Programmer/System SoftwareUniversity of Illinois/AISS/CNO312/996-5212 from OBorge@aiss.uic.edu Sat Feb 13 07:44:46 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Impregnated Rods The Orvis patent has expired.The Patent Office will send you a copy.I have a copy and will send you a copy it or perhapsJerry Foster could post it on his ROADMAKER's Page. Olaf BorgeSystems Programmer/System SoftwareUniversity of Illinois/AISS/CNO312/996-5212 -----Original Message-----From: Michael Leitheiser [SMTP:flyh2o@worldnet.att.net]Sent: Friday, February 12, 1999 10:29 PM Subject: Impregnated Rods My first cane rod(purchased late 60s) was an impregnated Farlow andlater Igot an Orvis. Never knew what they were impregnated with, but heardat onepoint that some kind of bakelite resin was used. One tip on the Orviswould regularly take a nasty set. In the prior discussion on impregnated rods, nobody discussed/revealedwhatis/was being used to impregnate rods. Is it a proprietary secret ofsomesort? Terry? A.J.? Don't you guys currently impregnate some rods?Whatdid Orvis, Phillipson and Wright and McGill use? How about T&T?Mike Leitheiser "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sat Feb 13 07:58:01 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Sat, Subject: RE: Impregnated Rods rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Hi Olaf, If you have a copy, I'd appreciate it if you couldsend one to me too. Thanks Richard -----Original Message----- Of Borge, Olaf A. rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Impregnated Rods The Orvis patent has expired.The Patent Office will send you a copy.I have a copy and will send you a copy it orperhapsJerry Foster could post it on his ROADMAKER'sPage. Olaf BorgeSystems Programmer/System SoftwareUniversity of Illinois/AISS/CNO312/996-5212 -----Original Message-----From: Michael Leitheiser[SMTP:flyh2o@worldnet.att.net]Sent: Friday, February 12, 1999 10:29 PM Subject: Impregnated Rods My first cane rod(purchased late 60s) was animpregnated Farlow andlater Igot an Orvis. Never knew what they wereimpregnated with, but heardat onepoint that some kind of bakelite resin was used.One tip on the Orviswould regularly take a nasty set. In the prior discussion on impregnated rods,nobody discussed/revealedwhatis/was being used to impregnate rods. Is it aproprietary secret ofsomesort? Terry? A.J.? Don't you guys currentlyimpregnate some rods?Whatdid Orvis, Phillipson and Wright and McGill use?How about T&T?Mike Leitheiser "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Sat Feb 13 09:20:15 1999 Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:17:34 -0600 Subject: Re: Gathering Information Needed Joe,Don't have all the info on other gatherings, but the 1999 "SouthernRodmakers Gathering" will be October 28-30, near Mountain Home,Arkansas, onthe world famous White River. That's not too far from Gatlinburg, and wewould love to have you join us.I'm planning to be at the FFF Conclave. Maybe we can get together then. Harry Boyd Joe C. Byrd wrote: Does anyone have a comprehensive list of all the gatherings alreadyscheduled for 1999? I live in TN not too far from Gatlinburg, and wouldlove to organize a gathering there. I know that the FFF conclave isscheduled for August, but it will be a zoo then and I believe that agathering of rodmakers would be better at an earlier or later date. Thanks in advance Joe Byrd (aka JoeBoy) from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sat Feb 13 10:22:31 1999 R8.30.00.7) Subject: Re[2]: calling all motor gurus To all of you that answered my motor query either on list or by email- thanks! I think I can rebox the controlling electronics into a smaller unit, well ventilated, since the current configuration has a lot of wasted space for other non-electronic needs and the actual power source and controller board are fairly compact (but seriously heavy, huge coils/magnet/whatever). However, based on the suggestions Ihave received, this system is probably way more complex and more trouble than it is worth so I will probably junk it in favor of a low RPM AC motor. Thanks again. This list is invaluable.Jon from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Feb 13 10:35:32 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id AA36950184; Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:37:10 EST Subject: Re: Fly lines A.J.,The original white (Ivory) S.A. Air Cel Supreme in double taper maystill be had in some shops for $18-23. These are excellent lines, andthinner than most more modern lines.Best regards,Reed "A.J.Thramer" wrote: I am extremely tired of being 'hosed' for these grossly overpriced flylines. I mean REALLY! what are they talking about. Some of these linesare over $60!!. I started to buy Cortland 333 lines after somedissapointing trials with the 'big money' lines. DT only of course. Asan aside it is becoming more difficult to find even DT lines. As far asI am concerned WF line are an abomination. If I wanted to have a linewith one end that won't cast accuratly past 40ft, eliminate line controland not roll cast I would assume that the manufacturers would PAY ME!A.J.Thramer from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat Feb 13 11:02:04 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id A06F5C0180; Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:03:43 EST Subject: Re: A & F Monogram 9' 6 oz Salmon Rod Steve,Not unlike finding a coin marked "227 B.C.", a 1940's vintage rod withAFTMAline weight designations from the early 1960's.Apart from that obvious disparity, A&F did market a "Monogram", but Idoubtthat they ever, since, say, 1910, sold a bamboo rod that was round andnone,"Salmon Red" in color. It sounds like an early '60s fiberglass rod. The useof agreen reelseat with a red rod is certainly hideous enough to place it in the'60sor early seventies.None of the statements above are intended to denigrate what may be asuperbcasting and fishing rod. Some of the better fiberglass rods were a delighttocast. Olaf let me cast a Heddon Black Beauty in glass that I quietly lustafter.Best regards,Reed SBDunn@aol.com wrote: Can anyone tell me anything about a supposedly bamboo fly rod labeled(inscript) "A and F Monogram" "Salmon Rod 9'-6oz." "Line Size #8". The rodisround and "Salmon red" in color. Bought in the 1940s from Aberchrombie and Fitch. Reel seat is greenmetal butlooks like a Heddon. The rest of the rod (as near as I can tell from thepicture he emailed me) does not look like Heddon. If anyone can tell me anything about the rod (including approx. value) Iwouldappreciate it. Thanks in advance, Steve. from stpete@netten.net Sat Feb 13 18:01:27 1999 cedar.netten.net(8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id SAA09422 for ;Sat, 13 Feb 1999 Subject: Dowel pins To who ever was inquiring about the availability of dowel pins: MSC Corp sent me a flier today. In it was a list of "Precision GroundDowel Pins". A 100 count box of their 3/16" dia. 3/4" long dowel pinsis on sale for $5.77 (item 06023071), 1" long is on sale for $6.44 (item06023105). MSC sells all kinds of tools and supplies and they ship pronto. Theyare not always cheapest, but they might be a real godsend for those inremote areas. phone # is 1-800-645-7270, fax is 1-800-255-5067, website is http://www.miscdirect.com Standard disclaimers apply, I have no financial interest, etc, etc... Rick C. from jfoster@gte.net Sat Feb 13 19:12:46 1999 Subject: Re: Gathering Information Needed mac-creator="4D4F5353" All I have just posted an outstanding contribution by Claude Freaner on theconstruction furled leaders. it's at the bottom of the tipspage...enjoy...thank you Claude jerry from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat Feb 13 20:39:19 1999 Subject: Re: Impregnated Rods Mike,I impregnate all my rods. I know Orvis used phenolic resins. I do not knowwhatT&T or A.J. uses, I would not think to ask.Having a few little secrets is part of the game. If we all did everythingthesame we may as well paint em all dark grey.Terry Michael Leitheiser wrote: My first cane rod(purchased late 60s) was an impregnated Farlow andlater Igot an Orvis. Never knew what they were impregnated with, but heard atonepoint that some kind of bakelite resin was used. One tip on the Orviswould regularly take a nasty set. In the prior discussion on impregnated rods, nobody discussed/revealedwhatis/was being used to impregnate rods. Is it a proprietary secret of somesort? Terry? A.J.? Don't you guys currently impregnate some rods? Whatdid Orvis, Phillipson and Wright and McGill use? How about T&T?Mike Leitheiser "When the trout are lost, smash the state."Tom McGuane from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat Feb 13 23:07:18 1999 Subject: dueling rodmakers Just took a look at the updated archives, what a scream. I think perhapsthere is need for a little editing.Terry from WayneCatt@aol.com Sat Feb 13 23:45:01 1999 Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the Grayrock Sub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembers ofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunity ofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce a bamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbrought tothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought to fishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of the favoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do a backcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod. Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth ofthoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted to dealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post it boardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees would beasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focus wasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. rod areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne from maxrod@geocities.com Sun Feb 14 01:13:49 1999 Subject: LA trip To the list memers around LA, I returned from my business trip at Santa Monica.Let me tell my thanks for those who helped me in suggestions, showingways,driving me around,taking me fishing. I could enjoy 100% of my stay at S.M..I got back many numbers of cork rings from Bob Marryott and friendshipfromUS.I am afraid it might cause the price of cork rings up there. I uploaded the pictures on my web. under the items of "Rivers Visited".It was a pity that I could not attend IS Expo. at San Mateo though. from my heart friends, Max Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail(English):maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page(English):http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.htmlemail(Japanese):maxrod@geocities.comHome Page(Japanese):http://www.geocities.co.jp/Colosseum-Acropolis/2169 from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 14 01:20:33 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sun, 14 Feb 1999 07:20:00 +0000 Subject: Re: The Sloth Report Wayne, You may have just stumbled on the secret of George Gehrke's $300 bambooflyrod -- duct tape! In all his postings I don't recall him mentioninganything about gluing and binding the rod or even wrapping the guides onwith silk thread. You're a genius! Duct tape...it never occurred to me. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the Grayrock Sub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembersofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunityofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce abamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbroughttothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought tofishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of thefavoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do a backcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod.Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth of thoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted todealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post itboardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees wouldbeasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focuswasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne from jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Sun Feb 14 09:09:35 1999 with SMTP(MDaemon.v2.7.SP6b.R) for ; Sun, 14 Feb1999 10:11:29 -0500 Subject: Help Needed I am in the process of designing, writing, developing and testing aWindows95/98 based software program to store tapers, and also to keeptrackof all the rods we build, who their sold to, etc. This software will store information such as, taper, taper designer,length,ferrule information, weight, heat treating specifications for that rod,grip, reel seat, etc. It will also store whom this was sold to, and therod's unique serial number that the builder has assigned to it. There willalso be a section for free-hand notes about each particular rod. I need input on this project, and most importantly I am looking for betatesters. If you would like to give input and/or be a beta tester of thissoftware please email me off the list at jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thanks Joe from jfoster@gte.net Sun Feb 14 10:35:19 1999 Subject: Re: dueling rodmakers mac-creator="4D4F5353" Terry We each contribute in our own way...or not jerry from hexagon@odyssee.net Sun Feb 14 11:53:02 1999 Subject: Re: Help Needed Joe,a great idea, perhaps we could all have a unique serial no. tatooed on ourforearms as well?Terry Joe C. Byrd wrote: I am in the process of designing, writing, developing and testing aWindows95/98 based software program to store tapers, and also to keeptrackof all the rods we build, who their sold to, etc. This software will store information such as, taper, taper designer,length,ferrule information, weight, heat treating specifications for that rod,grip, reel seat, etc. It will also store whom this was sold to, and therod's unique serial number that the builder has assigned to it. There willalso be a section for free-hand notes about each particular rod. I need input on this project, and most importantly I am looking for betatesters. If you would like to give input and/or be a beta tester of thissoftware please email me off the list at jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thanks Joe from hexagon@odyssee.net Sun Feb 14 12:19:41 1999 Subject: Re: dueling rodmakers Jerry,reading those posts after the heat had died was at first hilarious thenit became a little frightening! I am not going to accept all the blamealthough I was in the middle of most of it and I am ashamed of how itended up.Is there any way of removing all that garbage from the archives withoutcreating too much work?Terry Ackland Jerry Foster wrote: Terry We each contribute in our own way...or not jerry from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 14 12:29:05 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sun, 14 Feb 1999 18:28:32 +0000 Subject: Re: Help Needed Terry, Actually, you might find something like this quite convenient and friendlyto use even if you don't like computers. Some database programs (likeAccess) allow you to store and associate very (format) unrelated types ofdata. For instance, if you have a scanner, sound card, and microphone onyour PC (the whole group can be had for less than $100) you can pull up anytaper you've ever built (or considered building), click on a field and see aphoto of your finished rod, click on another field and hear your commentsonthe rod (or your customer's comments). It would be great for capturingwhatthe rod was like originally as well as what the customer most appreciatedabout the rod ==> it would be unbeatable for ensuring that customerswerehappy with a refinish job in the future! George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Help Needed Joe,a great idea, perhaps we could all have a unique serial no. tatooed on ourforearms as well?Terry Joe C. Byrd wrote: I am in the process of designing, writing, developing and testing aWindows95/98 based software program to store tapers, and also tokeeptrackof all the rods we build, who their sold to, etc. This software will store information such as, taper, taper designer,length,ferrule information, weight, heat treating specifications for that rod,grip, reel seat, etc. It will also store whom this was sold to, and therod's unique serial number that the builder has assigned to it. Therewillalso be a section for free-hand notes about each particular rod. I need input on this project, and most importantly I am looking for betatesters. If you would like to give input and/or be a beta tester of thissoftware please email me off the list at jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thanks Joe from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 14 12:33:34 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sun, 14 Feb 1999 18:33:01 +0000 Subject: Re: Help Needed Re: the serial number idea I'd suggest a bar code serial number and it would be easier to read on yourforehead (flatter surface than an arm, unless you have a very muscularhead). Symbol Technologies makes a great barcode reader in the $700rangethat just plugs into your keyboard socket with a Y adapter and emulateskeyboard input -- they're great! I've used them many times for automatedtesting where we keep a history of test results. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Help Needed Joe,a great idea, perhaps we could all have a unique serial no. tatooed on ourforearms as well?Terry Joe C. Byrd wrote: I am in the process of designing, writing, developing and testing aWindows95/98 based software program to store tapers, and also tokeeptrackof all the rods we build, who their sold to, etc. This software will store information such as, taper, taper designer,length,ferrule information, weight, heat treating specifications for that rod,grip, reel seat, etc. It will also store whom this was sold to, and therod's unique serial number that the builder has assigned to it. Therewillalso be a section for free-hand notes about each particular rod. I need input on this project, and most importantly I am looking for betatesters. If you would like to give input and/or be a beta tester of thissoftware please email me off the list at jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thanks Joe from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sun Feb 14 14:02:21 1999 R8.30.00.7) Subject: Re[2]: Impregnated Rods Terry,Nothing wrong with a few secrets, however, would you be willing to partwith theinformation on whether you impregnate the assembled blanks or do thestrips separately prior to gluing?Jon "chipping away at the secrecy" McAnulty Mike,I impregnate all my rods. I know Orvis used phenolic resins. I do not knowwhat T&T or A.J. uses, I would not think to ask.Having a few little secrets is part of the game. If we all did everythingthe same we may as well paint em all dark grey.Terry from SalarFly@aol.com Sun Feb 14 17:02:17 1999 Subject: Morgan Hand Mill I've spent the weekend playing around with my Morgan Hand Mill. These are my first impressions. Setup is a little complicated. You pretty much need a workbench topermanently mount the Mill on. This isn't a set it up on the kitchen table type of set up. It needs to be bolted down to a sturdy base. There are high density plastic "anvils" that the bamboo strip rests on. They need to be trued to the base, but all the tools are supplied and the procedure is fairly simple if you follow the loose leaf book provided. Roughing a strip doesn't seem to be much faster than doing it witha roughing form and hand plane, especially since you have to changeto a roughing anvil on the base. Perhaps if I was going to rough 50 to100 strips at once the Mill might be faster than doing it the regular way. Final taper is where the Mill shines. Even when you "hog off" .004 inone pass there are no lifts or chips at the nodes, and with the adjustmentmechanism on the plane it is possible the take off thin wispy filiamentswhich have to be less than .001. At first the planing seems to take along time and require lots of effort, but you are taking off both sides at once so the time is actually a lot shorter for each strip. I got both the 60 degree cutters and the 61.5 degree cutters to testthe difference. I planed out a butt section with each, just a straighttaper, to compare. I can't see the difference. My feeling is to go withthe 61.5 cutters. According to Tom Morgan 61.5 degrees works, andnow I believe him. I also got the 5 strip and 4 strip cutters. Look for posts on 5 strip and 4 strip rods in the near future. The construction of the Mill is top notch and high quality, and I can see itmaking quite a few hundred rods before anything is worn out, except thecarbide cutters, but those are only 10 to 12 bucks a set. The notebooksays that one set should last for about 10 rods. They are standard,availableat any machine shop, triangular carbide cutters. I can see how the Millmightintimidate a rodmaker just getting started, but rodmaking in general tendstodo that. I'll let you know when I get a complete blank made. Darryl from jfoster@gte.net Sun Feb 14 18:36:27 1999 Subject: Re: dueling rodmakers mac-creator="4D4F5353" Terry I'd like to think that (most of the time) i'm just the innocuouslibrarian here..to that end my duty is not to impose personal censure..iwish, for the sake of all new builders who would like to get someguidance for this source, that everyone not treat this as a chatroom..but one the other hand some of it is kind of cute. yourselfincluded..the only thing i disagree with you about is your constantclubbing of Wayne, who has given only his unenforceable opinion born ofexperience to help anyone who asks, and has never belittled anyone oftheir opinion no matter how strange (to me) it may be. (Wayne certainlydoesn't need me to defend his views) sorry about that. I do on the otherhand believe that you are probably trying to get others to think forthemselves.to your point ,I was trying to enlist some help in condensing all thismaterial, at least the meaningful parts, but as you can see on reviewthat the task is daunting..Darryl and others offered their help invarious ways but not to the core issue of editing..Franks search engineis probably the best intermediate answer even though there is still thegigo effect.. respectfully jerry from lyons@teleport.com Sun Feb 14 23:31:24 1999 0000 (216.26.3.95) Subject: Unsubscribe Pleas!!!! Unsubscribe me. from spazz@choice.net Mon Feb 15 00:03:54 1999 BAA18099 Subject: South Bend 59 Taper All, Does anyone know the taper for the South Bend model 59, 9 1/2' BassRod...I can't seem to find it anywhere? Thanks Kev from saltwein@swbell.net Mon Feb 15 07:02:46 1999 HAA27347 Subject: test-nmsg Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from Fscrm@aol.com Mon Feb 15 08:09:37 1999 Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE from BThoman@neonsoft.com Mon Feb 15 08:43:38 1999 Subject: RE: First time using Nyatex That's what I discovered in my testing before I glued the rod so I attachedno weight to the pulley when I bound the tip sections. When I addedweightyou could actually see the tip section bending under the pressure of thebinding cord. When I removed the weight the section didn't bend. Brian -----Original Message-----From: Terence Ackland [SMTP:hexagon@odyssee.net]Sent: Friday, February 12, 1999 5:13 PM Cc: 'Rodmakers'Subject: Re: First time using Nyatex I think it was your new binder and not the adhesive that made wetstraighteningmore difficult. The Garrison binder, from my experience put far to muchpressureon the cord for the tip section using the recommended weight. Thoman, Brian wrote: I've built most of my rods using G2 epoxy and I noticed someobservationsbetween the two that I thought I'd pass along. Maybe those who've useddifferent glues can tell their likes and dislikes of particular glues. The first thing I noticed was the consistency of the glue when mixed.G2 ismuch thicker and the strips stay together when formed in the hexwithoutanypressure. The pieces of tape are a pain to get off but there's nochance ofa strip flipping when binding. As a matter of fact, the instructionsforglue say not to use any clamping, although I've never tried it. I boundallmy rods by hand when using the G2 and it was extremely easy. Thegluedblanks are completely dry (not tacky) after one day and the bindingstringcomes off very easily even after being heat treated. The manufactureris inCanada and they said to heat treat at 120 degrees F, so it's obvious itwillnot take the heat that Nyatex will. The glue is more difficult to sandorfile off of the blank than Nyatex and is definitely more difficult toheatstraighten. The Nyatex is more liquid and therefore more difficult to bind. Ididn'tbind by hand but used my newly made Garrison style binder. The tapewasmuch easier to remove. I found the Nyatex to be more difficult tostraighten when wet. I removed the binding string the next day (thegluewas still very tacky) rebound it by hand and heat treated at 200degreesF sanded off the glue. This was a breeze as was heat straightening thesections. I'd have to say that the G2 is much easier to use when gluing andbindingbut much more difficult to deal with after the glue dries. Nyatexmakesafter gluing a cinch. I have some Shell Epon I plan on using and it'smyunderstanding that it's properties are very comparable to the G2. Ithinkit takes heat a bit better but still less than Nyatex, although I'm noexpert. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from BThoman@neonsoft.com Mon Feb 15 09:06:08 1999 "'hexagon@odyssee.net'" Subject: RE: First time using Nyatex I meant the drive belt would bend the tip sections, not the binding cord. -----Original Message-----From: Thoman, Brian Sent: Monday, February 15, 1999 7:40 AM Cc: 'Rodmakers'Subject: RE: First time using Nyatex That's what I discovered in my testing before I glued the rod so Iattachedno weight to the pulley when I bound the tip sections. When I addedweightyou could actually see the tip section bending under the pressure of thebinding cord. When I removed the weight the section didn't bend. Brian -----Original Message-----From: Terence Ackland [SMTP:hexagon@odyssee.net]Sent: Friday, February 12, 1999 5:13 PM Cc: 'Rodmakers'Subject: Re: First time using Nyatex I think it was your new binder and not the adhesive that made wetstraighteningmore difficult. The Garrison binder, from my experience put far tomuchpressureon the cord for the tip section using the recommended weight. Thoman, Brian wrote: I've built most of my rods using G2 epoxy and I noticed someobservationsbetween the two that I thought I'd pass along. Maybe those who'veuseddifferent glues can tell their likes and dislikes of particular glues. The first thing I noticed was the consistency of the glue when mixed.G2 ismuch thicker and the strips stay together when formed in the hexwithoutanypressure. The pieces of tape are a pain to get off but there's nochance ofa strip flipping when binding. As a matter of fact, the instructionsforglue say not to use any clamping, although I've never tried it. Iboundallmy rods by hand when using the G2 and it was extremely easy. Thegluedblanks are completely dry (not tacky) after one day and the bindingstringcomes off very easily even after being heat treated. Themanufactureris inCanada and they said to heat treat at 120 degrees F, so it's obviousitwillnot take the heat that Nyatex will. The glue is more difficult tosandorfile off of the blank than Nyatex and is definitely more difficult toheatstraighten. The Nyatex is more liquid and therefore more difficult to bind. Ididn'tbind by hand but used my newly made Garrison style binder. The tapewasmuch easier to remove. I found the Nyatex to be more difficult tostraighten when wet. I removed the binding string the next day (thegluewas still very tacky) rebound it by hand and heat treated at 200degreesF andsanded off the glue. This was a breeze as was heat straightening thesections. I'd have to say that the G2 is much easier to use when gluing andbindingbut much more difficult to deal with after the glue dries. Nyatexmakesafter gluing a cinch. I have some Shell Epon I plan on using and it'smyunderstanding that it's properties are very comparable to the G2. Ithinkit takes heat a bit better but still less than Nyatex, although I'm noexpert. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from cbogart@shentel.net Mon Feb 15 09:46:13 1999 Subject: trying to contact - Jim Doukas Jim Drop me an email or give me a call at 540-743-7169 ASAP. Regards Chris from peter@chickerell.u-net.com Mon Feb 15 10:50:34 1999 Subject: Anyone heard of flyrods made by a D R Meakings? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE5903.2E1A44C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE5903.2E1A44C0 Has anyone come across any fly rods with the name of D. R. Meakings on =them. I have been asked by a friend if I knew anything about their =history. They are thought to have been made in England at some time by =D.R. Meakings, but I have not come across his name before. My Friends friend in the States has acquired two of them and would like =to know something about them. If anyone can through any light on the =subject I would be grateful Thanks Peter. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE5903.2E1A44C0 Has anyone come across any fly rods with the name of D. R. Meakings= them. I have been asked by a friend if I knew anything about their = are thought to have been made in England at some time by D.R. Meakings, = have not come across his name before. My Friends friend in the States has acquired two of them and would = know something about them. If anyone can through any light on the = would be grateful Thanks Peter. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE5903.2E1A44C0-- from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Mon Feb 15 11:25:10 1999 0600 Subject: Crowning Ferrule Tabs Friends,I'm sold on the need to crown the tabs of ferrules beforeinstalling them, but this seems like a slow process using 400g -1000g sandpaper. Seems like there ought to be a simpler method.Anyone have any ideas?I've thought about using the cut off wheels on a Dremel tool,but that seems hard to control. The belts on a belt sander aremuch too thick to fit between the tabs. But there has to be aneasy way to accomplish this simple task.Thanks in advance,Harry from SalarFly@aol.com Mon Feb 15 11:35:08 1999 Subject: Re: Crowning Ferrule Tabs I'm sold on the need to crown the tabs of ferrules beforeinstalling them, but this seems like a slow process using 400g -1000g sandpaper. Seems like there ought to be a simpler method.Anyone have any ideas? I use a knife edge jewelers file. Sometimes they are called needle files. Darryl from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Mon Feb 15 12:31:46 1999 0600 smap (4.1) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: The Sloth Report Wayne, I think you should also consider electrical tubular shrink wrap as asubstitute for silk wraps. My buddy Wally tried it on a Loomis graphiteblank and it did work (but I have to clarify that I did ask him fish 100yards downstream from me while he was using that rod). Wally iswayward,but I am trying to correct that deficiency in him. Wally is the originatorof the Wallywing dryfly pattern, so he does have potential. -----Original Message----- Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the GrayrockSub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembers ofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunityofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce a bamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbroughttothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought to fishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of the favoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do abackcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod. Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth ofthoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted to dealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post it boardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees would beasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focus wasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. rod areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne from stuart.tod@virgin.net Mon Feb 15 13:18:40 1999 (InterMail v4.00.03.01 201-229-104-101) with SMTP +0000 Subject: [Fwd: Re: The Sloth Report] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------6E38394859B3 Is there a heating engineer near to Wayne's cabin? I think the carbonmonoxide output of his heating system needs checking...or he hasn'tswitched his extractor fan on. Trouble is, it made sense....but then I've just been using a lot ofthinners in my spray gun. Stuart --------------6E38394859B3 (InterMail v4.00.03.01 201-229-104-101) with ESMTP 0600 smap (4.1) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: The Sloth Report Wayne, I think you should also consider electrical tubular shrink wrap as asubstitute for silk wraps. My buddy Wally tried it on a Loomis graphiteblank and it did work (but I have to clarify that I did ask him fish 100yards downstream from me while he was using that rod). Wally iswayward,but I am trying to correct that deficiency in him. Wally is the originatorof the Wallywing dryfly pattern, so he does have potential. -----Original Message----- Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the GrayrockSub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembers ofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunityofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce a bamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbroughttothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought to fishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of the favoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do a backcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod. Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth ofthoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted to dealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post it boardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees would beasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focus wasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. rod areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne --------------6E38394859B3-- from cbogart@shentel.net Mon Feb 15 13:22:58 1999 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" ,"WayneCatt@aol.com" Subject: RE: The Sloth Report Go down to your local Farmer's Coop and get some of the elasticrings they use for castrating pigs and fasten with them - remember weare dealing with the fish heads here - no high techie stuff required - justbasiccrude and rude stuff. Chris On Mon, 15 Feb 1999 12:30:56 -0600, Grombacher, Alan wrote: Wayne, I think you should also consider electrical tubular shrink wrap as asubstitute for silk wraps. My buddy Wally tried it on a Loomis graphiteblank and it did work (but I have to clarify that I did ask him fish 100yards downstream from me while he was using that rod). Wally iswayward,but I am trying to correct that deficiency in him. Wally is the originatorof the Wallywing dryfly pattern, so he does have potential. -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, February 13, 1999 10:44 PM Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the GrayrockSub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembers ofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunityofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce abamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbroughttothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought tofishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of thefavoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do a backcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod.Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth ofthoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted todealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post itboardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees wouldbeasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focuswasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. rod areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne Regards Chris from GROMBACHERA@phibred.com Mon Feb 15 13:35:21 1999 0600 smap (4.1) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu,WayneCatt@aol.comSubject: RE: The Sloth Report Chris, In my hog farming days (pure bred Chester-Whites), we preferred thepocketknife method. Something about the castrating that always rubbedtheCatholic in me the wrong way. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: The Sloth Report Go down to your local Farmer's Coop and get some of the elasticrings they use for castrating pigs and fasten with them - remember weare dealing with the fish heads here - no high techie stuff required - justbasiccrude and rude stuff. Chris On Mon, 15 Feb 1999 12:30:56 -0600, Grombacher, Alan wrote: Wayne, I think you should also consider electrical tubular shrink wrap as asubstitute for silk wraps. My buddy Wally tried it on a Loomis graphiteblank and it did work (but I have to clarify that I did ask him fish 100yards downstream from me while he was using that rod). Wally iswayward,but I am trying to correct that deficiency in him. Wally is the originatorof the Wallywing dryfly pattern, so he does have potential. -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, February 13, 1999 10:44 PM Subject: The Sloth Report I have just returned home from a meeting of the GrayrockSub-committee onLeveraged takeOvers & Time-management Habits. There is concern bymembersofthe sub-committee that some attendees of TTBBBQ V will miss theopportunityofowning a bamboo fly rod. And that with the pressure being placed on thetimeelement of production something needs to be done. Thus the formation ofTeamGrayrock. Their assignment (if they accept it ) will be to produce abamboofly rod within a 1 3/4 hour time limit. With the finished product beingfocused at the needs of the FishHeads group.To accomplished this task certain assembly methods will need to berefined.It has been suggested that the use of Duct Tape be allowed. A ruling willbedecided shortly. Economic issues of the finished rods has also beenbroughttothe surface. Because the FishHeads are the target group thought tofishingefficiency must be considered. Suggestion from the floor were taken andthesub-committee ruled that the handle could be in the fashion of thefavoredbrown bottle design. A demonstration was given of how valuable castingtimecould be saved if the caster could both refresh the thirst and do a backcastin one. Here again Duct Tape will be accepted for attachment purposes.Whenother hardware issues were brought into light - at about the same timememberX opened another beer - the sub- committee was in approval of the use ofpoptabs to replace the economics burden of purchasing guides for the rod.Andinkeeping with the asthenic balance Duct Tape would again be considered asappropriate.Perhaps the biggest objection to the project was total stealth ofthoseactually involved with the rods creation - two action were drafted todealwith the issues. First the makers names would be kept on the post itboardatthe Clubhouse - assuring total confidence. Secondly all attendees wouldbeasked (aka required) to personally endorse the created rod.As an ending thought the subcommittee felt it necessary that anappropiatetransport system be devise for the rod. Here again the issuse of focuswasdiscussed - being that the FishHead being the target group - the standthrowaway Foam Cooler was chosen with a bungee cord system in for rodsecurity. rod areencouraged to file your reserve bits early.The Swarts Creek Show was rather fun this weekend Wayne Regards Chris from FISHWOOL@aol.com Mon Feb 15 15:34:56 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: The Sloth Report Wayne, have you been playing around with the MEK again?Carefull, now,Hank. from WayneCatt@aol.com Mon Feb 15 15:55:22 1999 Subject: Re: The Sloth Report Now I know that the FishHeads are perhaps a bit of base at times -But isn'tcastration a bit rash - That might cause a cleansing of the gene pool. from hexagon@odyssee.net Mon Feb 15 16:03:07 1999 Subject: Re: Help Needed George,did I get that wrong, I had the idea it was an online data base.I got a letter last year from a guy that wanted me to fill out a 10 pagequestionaire he had enclosed. I thought it was from the same guy.Terry irish-george wrote: Terry, Actually, you might find something like this quite convenient andfriendlyto use even if you don't like computers. Some database programs (likeAccess) allow you to store and associate very (format) unrelated typesofdata. For instance, if you have a scanner, sound card, and microphone onyour PC (the whole group can be had for less than $100) you can pull upanytaper you've ever built (or considered building), click on a field and see aphoto of your finished rod, click on another field and hear your commentsonthe rod (or your customer's comments). It would be great for capturingwhatthe rod was like originally as well as what the customer mostappreciatedabout the rod ==> it would be unbeatable for ensuring that customerswerehappy with a refinish job in the future! George Bourke-----Original Message-----From: Terence Ackland Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Sunday, February 14, 1999 9:55 AMSubject: Re: Help Needed Joe,a great idea, perhaps we could all have a unique serial no. tatooed on ourforearms as well?Terry Joe C. Byrd wrote: I am in the process of designing, writing, developing and testing aWindows95/98 based software program to store tapers, and also tokeeptrackof all the rods we build, who their sold to, etc. This software will store information such as, taper, taper designer,length,ferrule information, weight, heat treating specifications for that rod,grip, reel seat, etc. It will also store whom this was sold to, and therod's unique serial number that the builder has assigned to it. Therewillalso be a section for free-hand notes about each particular rod. I need input on this project, and most importantly I am looking forbetatesters. If you would like to give input and/or be a beta tester of thissoftware please email me off the list at jcbyrd@direct-pest.com Thanks Joe from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Mon Feb 15 16:13:18 1999 Tue, 16 Feb 1999 06:12:54 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: Crowning Ferrule Tabs Harry,try using a hand saw file at a very low angle. This will cut a triangularslot very easily. Tony On Mon, 15 Feb 1999, Harry Boyd wrote: Friends,I'm sold on the need to crown the tabs of ferrules beforeinstalling them, but this seems like a slow process using 400g -1000g sandpaper. Seems like there ought to be a simpler method.Anyone have any ideas?I've thought about using the cut off wheels on a Dremel tool,but that seems hard to control. The belts on a belt sander aremuch too thick to fit between the tabs. But there has to be aneasy way to accomplish this simple task.Thanks in advance,Harry /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Feb 15 16:36:41 1999 Subject: Re: Crowning Ferrule Tabs Harry, I use a knife edge jeweller's file at a low angle to create atapered slot on each tab. Then I use a thin flat file to round the tipsof each tab. Any burrs on the inside of the ferrrule are removed with around file. It also helps if you have first thinned the tabs by filingwith the flat file. I install the ferrules so that the tabs align with theflats. Each tab is "ironed" flat with a hard tool such as a lathe tool bit ----------From: Harry Boyd Subject: Crowning Ferrule TabsDate: Monday, February 15, 1999 12:21 PM Friends,I'm sold on the need to crown the tabs of ferrules beforeinstalling them, but this seems like a slow process using 400g -1000g sandpaper. Seems like there ought to be a simpler method.Anyone have any ideas?I've thought about using the cut off wheels on a Dremel tool,but that seems hard to control. The belts on a belt sander aremuch too thick to fit between the tabs. But there has to be aneasy way to accomplish this simple task.Thanks in advance,Harry from Canerods@aol.com Mon Feb 15 20:26:16 1999 Subject: Re: The Sloth Report Wayne, Time to visit Terry down in Florida - winter's starting to get to ya, oldfella. Don Burns PS - OBTW, it's still trout season in Southen California in case yourwindageis off. from rsgould@cmc.net Tue Feb 16 00:01:05 1999 Subject: Macy's Rod Fellow rodbuilders,I'd like to know if any of you have run across bamboo rods bearing thedecal "Macy's New York". The one I'm looking at is (I hate to say this butit's a spinning rod) a 2 piece x 5ft long (when assembled) rod where thebutt section is 26 1/2" long and the tip section is 35" long. The tipsection has a red agate tip top and 3 red agate guides while the buttsection has no guides and has a translucent plastic downlocking reel seatwhich also forms the foregrip. The lower grip is cork. The reel seat bandis stamped with the patent number 1624052. The wraps are black andorange,the signature wrap is black on each end with 6 orange sections in betweeneach about 1/16" wide. There is no inkwork on the rod, only the decal"Macy's New York. The rod bag is labeled "5' - 2 1/2, BCH, The Rod with aFighting Heart". I suspect the "2 1/2" is the ferrule size. The cane isslightly darkened similar to a Heddon, Montague, or a South Bend. I'd like to know what company made these for Macy's, its vintage andvalue(if any). Any help you might offer would be appreciated. Ray from Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com Tue Feb 16 07:44:05 1999 via NOTES Subject: dowel pins I saw a post recently about a good source for steel dowels... now I seem tohave lost it...could whoever posted that (or someone who hasn't deleted it)refresh my memory? thanks, Kev from wgray@uidaho.edu Tue Feb 16 11:13:17 1999 JAA04920 16 Feb 199917:15:22 UT Subject: Montague Flash I have a Montague Flash 9' 3pce I inherited that is in quite good shape. It has a full wells grip, downlock reelseat (oak?) hook keeper ring, bag and tube. The wraps are alternating red/black bands. I checked the archives but didn't turn up quite what I needed. I don't think it was fished a lot but enough that the snake guide next to the ferrule on the butt section has come off. I doesn't look like the rod had a stripping guide. First, what size thread was most likely used on this to re wrap the guide? The wraps are red/black alternating bands. Second, did these also have a stripping guide or was there just the one snake guide near the ferrule? Third, a number of books on restoring rods seem to be available. Any recommendations on a good beginners guide would be welcome. Thanks in advance for any help or comments. If you prefer you can reply off list to wgray@uidaho.edu from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 16 11:58:30 1999 via smap (4.1) 10:07:14 PST Subject: RE: Montague Flash Wilson, The thread used to wrap the Montague was likely size A or somethingclose to that. I had a Flash with a red plastic insert in the reelseat and the wraps were solid red. I'm not sure if the alternating red/black bands sounds original or not. The Montagues I have seen typically have a stripper guide, but I suppose it's possible your's had a snake style stripper or else it may not be original. A 9' three piece rod would typically have one guide, typically a stripper, near the female ferrule on the butt section. There should be fade marks or guide foot stains on the rod if there were guides at other locations that were removed in the past. Chris M.mcdowellc@lanecc.edu from chris@artistree.com Tue Feb 16 13:00:56 1999 Subject: Re: Montague Flash mac-creator="4D4F5353" One thing I have noticed about Montague's was that the wraps can varygreatly from one rod to the next. I have a 9' that really is the poorestrod I own (a very big club) but it has the most complex and interestingset of wraps I have ever seen on any rod. It consists of 10 or so turnsof 6 different colors all getting smaller. The wraps also getproportionately smaller as you go form butt to tip. I read somewherethat some of the woman who used to wrap these production rods got alittle bored and sometimes would do their own thing. The person whowrapped this rod really took pride in what they did. Chris Wohlford from chris@artistree.com Tue Feb 16 14:22:34 1999 Subject: Braided Monofilament for binder mac-creator="4D4F5353" Does anyone have a source for the Braided Mono filament line that worksso well in the Garrison binder? None of tackle shops here carry itanymore. Thanks in advance.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from stuart.tod@virgin.net Tue Feb 16 15:40:19 1999 (InterMail v4.00.03.01 201-229-104-101) with SMTP Tue, 16 Feb 1999 21:39:59 +0000 Subject: Re: Braided Monofilament for binder Chris -I use braided nylon Builders' Chalk line...very cheap! Stuart Chris Wohlford wrote: Does anyone have a source for the Braided Mono filament line that worksso well in the Garrison binder? None of tackle shops here carry itanymore. Thanks in advance.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Tue Feb 16 16:21:43 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Tue, Subject: 60 degree angle BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_rCeE5NFRwYiOrSYRndMudA)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_rCeE5NFRwYiOrSYRndMudA) I find that when I place my planed strips into the60 degree thread tool to check the precision ofangles, it looks right on. Putting the splinestogether, however, will sometimes show some a lessthan equal planing, resulting in a slightegg-shaped cross section. Is there a trick tomeasuring your spline to help achieve and maintaina precise equilateral triangles? Thanks in advance Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_rCeE5NFRwYiOrSYRndMudA) that when I place my planed strips into the 60 degree thread tool to = precision of angles, it looks right on. Putting the splines together, = will sometimes show some a less than equal planing, resulting in a = egg-shaped cross section. Is there a trick to measuring your spline to = achieve and maintain a precise equilateral =triangles? in advance Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_rCeE5NFRwYiOrSYRndMudA)-- from stpete@netten.net Tue Feb 16 16:29:28 1999 cedar.netten.net(8.8.8/8.6.12) with SMTP id QAA22677; Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:29:23 -0600 Subject: Re: dowel pins Kevin, I posted a message about MSC having a sale on 100 count boxes of steeldowel pins. They are in the neighborhood of 6-8 dollars, depending ondiameter and length. The website address is: http://www.mscdirect.com The catalog is huge, I've tossed my sale flier, but you might ask whatthe order number is for the size and length you want. They also have an800 number. It should be on the website. Rick Kevin.Burkhardt@ipaper.com wrote: I saw a post recently about a good source for steel dowels... now I seemtohave lost it...could whoever posted that (or someone who hasn't deletedit)refresh my memory? thanks, Kev from rcurry@ttlc.net Tue Feb 16 17:49:52 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id A4411FC00A0; Tue, 16 Feb 1999 18:50:25 EST Subject: Re: Montague Flash Wilson,I see most strippers positioned about 30" (+/- 2") up the rod. Iwould be surprised to see no stripper on that rod.Best regards,Reed Wilson Gray wrote: I have a Montague Flash 9' 3pce I inherited that is in quite goodshape. It has a full wells grip, downlock reelseat (oak?) hookkeeper ring, bag and tube. The wraps are alternating red/blackbands. I checked the archives but didn't turn up quite what I needed. Idon't think it was fished a lot but enough that the snake guide nextto the ferrule on the butt section has come off. I doesn't look likethe rod had a stripping guide. First, what size thread was most likely used on this to re wrap theguide? The wraps are red/black alternating bands. Second, did these also have a stripping guide or was there just theone snake guide near the ferrule? Third, a number of books on restoring rods seem to be available. Anyrecommendations on a good beginners guide would be welcome. Thanks in advance for any help or comments. If you prefer you can reply off list to wgray@uidaho.edu from cbogart@shentel.net Tue Feb 16 18:50:13 1999 Subject: Re: Braided Monofilament for binder ChrisTry your local hardware store for Braided Nylon Chalk and Mason Line.The brand I have is Wellington - works fine. Chris On Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:25:48 +0000, Chris Wohlford wrote: Does anyone have a source for the Braided Mono filament line that worksso well in the Garrison binder? None of tackle shops here carry itanymore. Thanks in advance.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from chris@artistree.com Tue Feb 16 19:00:56 1999 Subject: Re: Braided Monofilament for binder mac-creator="4D4F5353" Thanks all for the responses. Got some great leads. I have used justabout every type of chalk line available but have been unhappy withtheir performance (i.e. - Short life span and slippage when wet withglue) Ralph Moon recommended a 125 lb braided mono filament but most ofthe deep sea tackle dealerships indicate that nobody makes this lineanymore. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from LECLAIR123@aol.com Tue Feb 16 20:07:11 1999 Subject: Re: dowel pins Kevin,Check with MSC tool CO. I purchase steel dowel pins from them all the time. You can buy as little as twenty-five. Dave LeClair from sats@gte.net Tue Feb 16 20:49:43 1999 Subject: Re: Re[2]: ferrules (Again) I've seen a lot of junk Japanese rods, but I've seen one or two that mightbe decent quality... Does anyone know what kind of cane they use andwho are some of the respected rod makers from Japan? I'm sure wecannotstereotype their rods as all inferior. I have one unmarked Japanese rodthat appears to be decent quality, not a Heddon mind you but better thana low end H-I. I'm curious though because it has aluminum ferrulesthough... It's hard to say. After the war Japan was in a sorry way. They didn't havemuch of anything. I remember toys from Japan that had the original tincanlabel still stamped on the inside. I'm sure you could buy almost anyqualityyou wanted. But most drunk G.I.s were happy with what they could pick upcheep.Things that looked better then they were. (there's a lesson there.) I've got one rod that I've re-built. The cork and reel seat were very good.The nodes are spaced at about 12 to 15 inches. It fishes okay. I have another that I picked up, still in the condition I relieved it. Thehardware on it is VERY cheep. The cork is falling apart. The two look almost identical. Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from lblan@provide.net Tue Feb 16 20:53:08 1999 Subject: RE: Braided Monofilament for binder Is he speaking of planer board line? If so, it is a Cortland product. Ibought my last spool at K-Mart. -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 12:04 PM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Braided Monofilament for binder Thanks all for the responses. Got some great leads. I have used justabout every type of chalk line available but have been unhappy withtheir performance (i.e. - Short life span and slippage when wet withglue) Ralph Moon recommended a 125 lb braided mono filament but mostofthe deep sea tackle dealerships indicate that nobody makes this lineanymore. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from tbeckfam@pacbell.net Tue Feb 16 23:15:49 1999 mail-gw5.pacbell.net (8.8.8/8.7.1+antispam) with SMTP id VAA29262; Tue,16 Feb 1999 21:15:41 Subject: Re: Braided Monofilament for binder Chris Wohlford wrote: Thanks all for the responses. Got some great leads. I have used justabout every type of chalk line available but have been unhappy withtheir performance (i.e. - Short life span and slippage when wet withglue) Ralph Moon recommended a 125 lb braided mono filament but mostofthe deep sea tackle dealerships indicate that nobody makes this lineanymore. --Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Try a fly fishing store. They probably have braided mono running line. from channer@hubwest.com Wed Feb 17 07:45:51 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A88495B0126; Wed, 17 Feb 1999 06:47:48 MST Subject: Denver Guys;Let's see a show of hands, who is going to Denver? I didn't think I wouldbe able to go this year, but as it turns out I can make it after all. Imight be able to stay with a friend, but if that doesn't work out I wouldbe interested in sharing a room or some floor space with someone. John from hexagon@odyssee.net Wed Feb 17 09:59:31 1999 Subject: Re: 60 degree angle F737E45173398C4E13EA97EA" --------------F737E45173398C4E13EA97EA Richard,you are too honest, just bullshit like the rest of the gang.Terry Richard Nantel wrote: I find that when I place my planed strips into the 60 degree threadtool to check the precision of angles, it looks right on. Putting thesplines together, however, will sometimes show some a less than equalplaning, resulting in a slight egg-shaped cross section. Is there atrick to measuring your spline to help achieve and maintain a preciseequilateral triangles?Thanks inadvance Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --------------F737E45173398C4E13EA97EA Richard,you are too honest, just bullshit like the rest of the gang.Terry Richard Nantel wrote: find that when I place my planed strips into the 60 degree thread toolto check the precision of angles, it looks right on. Putting the splinestogether, however, will sometimes show some a less than equal planing,resulting in a slight egg-shaped cross section. Is there a trick tomeasuringyour spline to help achieve and maintain a precise equilateraltriangles?Thanks --------------F737E45173398C4E13EA97EA-- from Anachemrpo@aol.com Wed Feb 17 10:03:39 1999 Subject: Apologies, not rodmaking. Book signing notice I have no affiliation other than promoting the use of the book collectionmentioned. Vermont author Bill Mares will celebrate the publication of his new bookFishing With the Presidents, An Anecdotal History by attending a booksigningat the Georgia (Vt.) Public Library Saturday March 20 between 2:00 and3:00. Bill Mares lives in Burlington (Vt.), is a cum laude graduate of Harvard,former member of the Vermont House of Representatives and teacheshistory atChamplain Valley Union High School in Hinesburg (Vt.).Individuals may bring their own copies of his book or Mr. Mares will havecopies available. The event will also celebrate the library's collection of over fifty fly-fishing and fly-tying books donated by the family of the late CharlieLovelette of St. Albans (Vt.). 4643.Library hours are currently Monday and Wednesday noon-8: 00PM, Friday10:00AM-5:00PM, Saturday Noon-4: 00 PM. The library is located on U.S. Rte 7, offinterstate 89 Exit 18 (formerly the site of the Northwestern VermontRegionalLibrary). Russ Lavigne from wgray@uidaho.edu Wed Feb 17 11:12:18 1999 JAA13552 17 Feb 199917:14:24 UT Subject: RE: Montague Thanks to all who responded. As always the list is one great resource. from stuart.tod@virgin.net Wed Feb 17 11:25:14 1999 (InterMail v4.00.03.01 201-229-104-101) with SMTP Wed, 17 Feb 1999 17:23:15 +0000 Subject: Re: Apologies, not rodmaking. Book signing notice Did Bill Clinton sign it or stain it? Stuart Anachemrpo@aol.com wrote: I have no affiliation other than promoting the use of the book collectionmentioned. Vermont author Bill Mares will celebrate the publication of his new bookFishing With the Presidents, An Anecdotal History by attending a booksigningat the Georgia (Vt.) Public Library Saturday March 20 between 2:00 and3:00.Bill Mares lives in Burlington (Vt.), is a cum laude graduate of Harvard,former member of the Vermont House of Representatives and teacheshistory atChamplain Valley Union High School in Hinesburg (Vt.).Individuals may bring their own copies of his book or Mr. Mares will havecopies available. The event will also celebrate the library's collection of over fifty fly-fishing and fly-tying books donated by the family of the late CharlieLovelette of St. Albans (Vt.). 524-4643.Library hours are currently Monday and Wednesday noon-8: 00PM, Friday10:00AM-5:00PM, Saturday Noon-4: 00 PM. The library is located on U.S. Rte 7, offinterstate 89 Exit 18 (formerly the site of the Northwestern VermontRegionalLibrary). Russ Lavigne from rclarke@eou.edu Wed Feb 17 11:55:04 1999 09:55:34 -0800 "Anachemrpo@aol.com" Subject: RE: Apologies, not rodmaking. Book signing notice I have no love for Bill, but let's stick to rodmaking. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Apologies, not rodmaking. Book signing notice Did Bill Clinton sign it or stain it? Stuart Anachemrpo@aol.com wrote: I have no affiliation other than promoting the use of the book collectionmentioned. Vermont author Bill Mares will celebrate the publication of his new bookFishing With the Presidents, An Anecdotal History by attending a booksigningat the Georgia (Vt.) Public Library Saturday March 20 between 2:00 and3:00.Bill Mares lives in Burlington (Vt.), is a cum laude graduate of Harvard,former member of the Vermont House of Representatives and teacheshistory atChamplain Valley Union High School in Hinesburg (Vt.).Individuals may bring their own copies of his book or Mr. Mares will havecopies available. The event will also celebrate the library's collection of over fifty fly-fishing and fly-tying books donated by the family of the late CharlieLovelette of St. Albans (Vt.). 524-4643.Library hours are currently Monday and Wednesday noon-8: 00PM, Friday10:00AM-5:00PM, Saturday Noon-4: 00 PM. The library is located on U.S. Rte 7, offinterstate 89 Exit 18 (formerly the site of the Northwestern VermontRegionalLibrary). Russ Lavigne from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed Feb 17 12:17:54 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, Subject: Bill Waara, John Long Would anyone have an e-mail or phone number forBill Waara and or John Long? Thanks, Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Wed Feb 17 17:01:48 1999 SMTP(Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1a3); Wed, 17 Feb 1999 18:01:29 - 0500 From:"Jon Lintvet" Subject: Tapers? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE5AA0.5F9ACBC0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE5AA0.5F9ACBC0 Could anyone point me in the direction of some powerful 8/9/10 wt 9' or =so taper. I want to build some rods for striper fishing. Thanks in =advance. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE5AA0.5F9ACBC0 Couldanyone = Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod = Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) =277- 4510www.munrorodco.com ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE5AA0.5F9ACBC0-- from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Feb 17 18:14:48 1999 Subject: Soaking Strips In the manual that comes with the Morgan Hand Mill, Tom suggestssoaking the bamboo strips before milling. He says he knows of a numberof experienced rod makers that do this before hand planing and there is no difference in the finished rod. Since Tom persuaded me to try 61.5 degrees for the bevel and it works,I figured he must have tried, or seen this being done. So, I gave it atry. It does indeed reduce the effort in milling off the excess bamboo,reduces by half the time taken to mill the strip, and after a half hour in an oven to dry out the strips, I can see no difference in an identical strip milled dry and never soaked. The procedure is to soak your strips for 24 hours, leave them in the water,taking them out one by one as you plane them. You have to allow for about20 per cent shrinkage. Give it a try. It works! Darryl from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Wed Feb 17 18:24:43 1999 via smap (4.1) 16:34:06 PST Subject: RE: Soaking Strips Darryl, I probably don't understand the process correctly, but are you saying that you mill the soaked strips to 20% over the actual dimensions you want and then they will shrink to the proper size when you cure them in the oven? Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Feb 17 20:02:15 1999 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips I probably don't understand the process correctly, but are you saying that you mill the soaked strips to 20% over the actual dimensions you wantand then they will shrink to the proper size when you cure them in the oven? Yup, they swell that much when you soak them. The oven only dries themout. Set for around 200 deg. F. Darryl from bokstrom@axionet.com Wed Feb 17 21:20:24 1999 ns2.vphos.net(8.9.0.Beta5/1.25) with ESMTP id TAA30824 for; Wed, 17 Feb 1999 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips Per Brandin and Bob Clay, with Tom present, demonstrated Tom's mill atCorbett Lake last April, putting dripping wet strips on the hand mill andplaning immediately. Per thanked me for putting him on to this. often planing most of the way while they are still wet. And when Iadvocated soaking, many got so shocked at the thought of making theirbeloved bamboo wet they'd pee down both legs. Did you know that at the Winston plant strips are kept in a special highhumidity cabinet before milling? ----------From: SalarFly@aol.com Subject: Soaking StripsDate: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 4:09 PM In the manual that comes with the Morgan Hand Mill, Tom suggestssoaking the bamboo strips before milling. He says he knows of a numberof experienced rod makers that do this before hand planing and there is no difference in the finished rod. Since Tom persuaded me to try 61.5 degrees for the bevel and it works,I figured he must have tried, or seen this being done. So, I gave it atry. It does indeed reduce the effort in milling off the excess bamboo,reduces by half the time taken to mill the strip, and after a half hourin an oven to dry out the strips, I can see no difference in an identicalstrip milled dry and never soaked. The procedure is to soak your strips for 24 hours, leave them in thewater,taking them out one by one as you plane them. You have to allow for about20 per cent shrinkage. Give it a try. It works! Darryl from saweiss@flash.net Wed Feb 17 22:18:54 1999 Subject: Re: 60 degree angle boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE5ABB.1DE84CA0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE5ABB.1DE84CA0 Watch it Terry,Now you are being honest!Steve I find that when I place my planed strips into the 60 degree =thread tool to check the precision of angles, it looks right on. Putting =the splines together, however, will sometimes show some a less than =equal planing, resulting in a slight egg-shaped cross section. Is there =a trick to measuring your spline to help achieve and maintain a precise =equilateral triangles?Thanks in advance Richard = ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE5ABB.1DE84CA0 it Terry, you are being honest!Steve you are too honest, just bullshit like the rest of the gang. = planed strips into the 60 degree thread tool to check the = angles, it looks right on. Putting the splines together, = sometimes show some a less than equal planing, resulting in a = egg-shaped cross section. Is there a trick to measuring your = triangles?Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE5ABB.1DE84CA0-- from rodsmiths@imt.net Wed Feb 17 23:47:10 1999 cu.imt.net (8.8.5/8.6.12)with SMTP id WAA08025 for ; Wed, 17 Feb Subject: Re: Soaking Strips SalarFly@aol.com wrote: I probably don't understand the process correctly, but are you sayingthatyou mill the soaked strips to 20% over the actual dimensions you wantandthen they will shrink to the proper size when you cure them in theoven? Yup, they swell that much when you soak them. The oven only dries themout. Set for around 200 deg. F. Darryl Hello rodmakers, I think a point of clarification should be made here. The strips shouldbe left enough oversize so that you can recut them after they are driedin your oven. You cannot count on them shrinking to a "finished" size. As John Bokstrom mentioned when I was at Winston we kept our strips inahigh humidity cabinet prior to milling after they were heat treated. This gave us better cuts on the milling machine with less chipping atthe nodes. After one of my trips to the bamboo meeting at Corbett Lakewhere I talked with John Bokstrom I tried soaking strips prior tomilling them. John was the first person that I ever heard mentionsoaking strips prior to cutting. The strips cut well on the millingmachine but not any better than having them in the high humidity cabinetso for us it wasn't an improvement. However, when hand cutting stripsit makes them go much easier. For those that know John there is a lotof admiration for his creativity and contributions to rodmaking. Tom Morgan from SalarFly@aol.com Thu Feb 18 01:25:53 1999 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips I think a point of clarification should be made here. The strips shouldbe left enough oversize so that you can recut them after they are driedin your oven. You cannot count on them shrinking to a "finished" size. This is true, sorry if I gave the impression that they shrunk down tocorrect size. Now that I reread Chris's post I see that he did say "proper size". But, it is just a pass or two with the Morgan Hand Millto get them to final size after they have dried. Darryl from Sergio.Ishikawa@nextel.com.br Thu Feb 18 05:25:47 1999 Subject: test test from hexagon@odyssee.net Thu Feb 18 09:25:35 1999 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips These handmills interest me in the fact that I cannot see them being anadvantage.Carbide cutting inserts have their geometry optimized for cutting metalat highspeeds with generous amounts of horse power required.Look at an insert under a low power microscope and you will discover thattheyare not sharp. These inserts are manufactured in dies. Powdered carbide ispoured into a mould and is then compressed with a punch using heat andhighpressure. This is how you buy them, they are not ground after sintering(theword for the process)The edge required for cutting bamboo by scraping needs to be very sharp ifthemechanical effort is to be reasonable.Terry Ackland SalarFly@aol.com wrote: In the manual that comes with the Morgan Hand Mill, Tom suggestssoaking the bamboo strips before milling. He says he knows of a numberof experienced rod makers that do this before hand planing and there isno difference in the finished rod. Since Tom persuaded me to try 61.5 degrees for the bevel and it works,I figured he must have tried, or seen this being done. So, I gave it atry. It does indeed reduce the effort in milling off the excess bamboo,reduces by half the time taken to mill the strip, and after a half hour inan oven to dry out the strips, I can see no difference in an identical stripmilled dry and never soaked. The procedure is to soak your strips for 24 hours, leave them in thewater,taking them out one by one as you plane them. You have to allow for about20 per cent shrinkage. Give it a try. It works! Darryl from TSmithwick@aol.com Thu Feb 18 18:30:47 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Soaking Strips In a message dated 2/18/99 3:24:44 AM, bokstrom@axionet.com wrote: A couple years ago, John talked me into trying this. It makes straighteningthe nodes much easier, and eliminates any scorching in the process. I havetried it on both blonde and flamed cane. The rods are not noodles and theroofof my workshop did not collapse. ( I didn't grow hair on my palms, either) from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 18 19:02:48 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Thu, 18 Feb 199918:02:13 - 0700 Subject: test - please disregard from dmanders@telusplanet.net Thu Feb 18 19:08:40 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Thu, 18 Feb 199918:08:25 - 0700 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu At 07:28 PM 2/18/99 EST, TSmithwick@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/18/99 3:24:44 AM, bokstrom@axionet.com wrote: often planing most of the way while they are still wet.>> A couple years ago, John talked me into trying this. It makesstraighteningthe nodes much easier, and eliminates any scorching in the process. Ihavetried it on both blonde and flamed cane. The rods are not noodles and theroofof my workshop did not collapse. ( I didn't grow hair on my palms, either) Tom, Not my experience Tom - roof collapsed - hair on palms - nite sweats -Moncia stains - the whole 9 yards.But the rods turned out fine - Bokstrom again leads the herd intoblasphemy. Here I've always heard that cane had to be kept in absolutelydry conditions - petted and primed for @ least 25 years and came overwiththe Mayflower before it was any good. Guess that's another type of cane!! Don from saweiss@flash.net Thu Feb 18 19:48:31 1999 , Subject: Re: Soaking Strips A couple years ago, John talked me into trying this. It makesstraighteningthe nodes much easier, and eliminates any scorching in the process. Ihavetried it on both blonde and flamed cane. The rods are not noodles and theroofof my workshop did not collapse. ( I didn't grow hair on my palms, either) Do you heat the wet strips and flatten and straighten the nodes the samewayas if the bamboo was dry?Steve from Domenic1@ix.netcom.com Thu Feb 18 20:16:48 1999 ix1.ix.netcom.com via smap(V1.3) Subject: Final taper Milling machine boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE5B84.5A216020" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE5B84.5A216020 To anyone who may be interested,I have a milling machine for sale,this is a large heavy machine that was =in production in the 50's and built by a tool and die maker.I hate to part with it but just do not have the space.Anyone who might be interested please contact me off list. Thank You, Croce Rod CoFair Lawn , N.J. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE5B84.5A216020 To anyone who may be =interested,I have a milling machine for = large heavy machine that was in production in the 50's and built by a = die maker. space. interested = contact me off list. Thank You,Domenic Croce CroceRod =CoFair Lawn , N.J.(201) 791-1774 = ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BE5B84.5A216020-- from gaff@carol.net Fri Feb 19 08:50:11 1999 Subject: munro rods hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil from rclarke@eou.edu Fri Feb 19 09:35:13 1999 07:36:04 -0800 rod makers list Subject: RE: munro rods I have always found Jon good to work with. Remember, he is a student. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu -----Original Message----- Subject: munro rods hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil from mevans@acxiom.com Fri Feb 19 10:05:54 1999 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: munro rods I had excellent service on an order over the Christmas holidays. ----------From: w.d. gatliff [SMTP:gaff@carol.net]Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 8:50 AM Subject: munro rods hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil from darrell01@netzero.net Fri Feb 19 10:09:38 1999 (209.154.136.166) Subject: Danville's Astral Rod Winding Thread, Size A boundary="=PMail:=_0007@@q9zHZUbq22UskjvgtkOc" --=PMail:=_0007@@q9zHZUbq22UskjvgtkOc Does anyone know if this thread is nylon or silk? I recently acquiredseveral rolls in the jasper colors, but cannot tell if it's silk or nylon.The spools are wood and 50 yd lengths with a round yellow sticker on thespools. = Hope somebody is familiar with this thread and can answer my riddle. Thanks all Darrell Lee --=PMail:=_0007@@q9zHZUbq22UskjvgtkOc-- ________________________________________________________NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?Get your FREE Internet Access and Email athttp://www.netzero.net/download.html from rodgers@jessie.nor.nuwc.navy.mil Fri Feb 19 10:26:47 1999 8.6/SMI-SVR4) Subject: RE: munro rods I sent a separate message off line to Wil in response; however, afterthinking about it, since the inquiry was sent to all that I should send theessence of my response to all on the list. Over the last several months Ihave ordered several things from Jon. The only thing that I have not yetreceived is the planning form. All of the other orders were received in atimely manner and in excellent condition. He told me yesterday that thefinal manfacturing of the planing form took longer than expected but theplaning form had been shipped. Knowing Jon, he isn't about to sendanythinguntil it meets his expectation and is excellent. I especially appreciatehis reasonable shipping and handling costs. I placed another order withhimyesterday. He is sometimes hard to get in touch with since he is a studentand also sometimes out of town. He has always answered my emails andvoicemail. Dan At 07:36 AM 2/19/99 -0800, you wrote:I have always found Jon good to work with. Remember, he is a student. Robert Clarkerclarke@eou.edu -----Original Message-----From: w.d. gatliff [SMTP:gaff@carol.net]Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:50 AM Subject: munro rods hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil from pdcorlis@nidc.edu Fri Feb 19 10:51:03 1999 with Novell_GroupWise; Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:52:25 -0800 Subject: Re: Danville's Astral Rod Winding Thread, Size A Hi Darrell Try burning a bit, if it smells like an oil tanker on fire, its synthetic... ifit smellslike burning hair its silk. At least that's what I've been told... Phil from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Fri Feb 19 10:56:29 1999 Sat, 20 Feb 1999 00:55:45 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: RE: munro rods No problem here, Jon sent me a Jap saw blade. Tony On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, mevans - Mark Evans wrote: I had excellent service on an order over the Christmas holidays. ----------From: w.d. gatliff [SMTP:gaff@carol.net]Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 8:50 AM Subject: munro rods hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many cockroaches does it take to change a lightbulb? A. Nobody knows, they all scatter when the light goes on. A Bug's Life. Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Fri Feb 19 11:03:59 1999 via smap (4.1) 9:13:00 PST Subject: Re: Danville's Astral Rod Winding Thread, Size A Darrell, Another test is to try to stretch it. Nylon stretches and silk doesn't. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from thramer@presys.com Fri Feb 19 11:32:53 1999 0000 Subject: Para 17 Does anyone have a para 17 taper they would like to share?A.J.Thramer from darrell01@netzero.net Fri Feb 19 11:52:37 1999 (209.154.136.166) Subject: Danville's Thread boundary="=PMail:=_0008@@2S1UBCaDECup3xCQTR0t" --=PMail:=_0008@@2S1UBCaDECup3xCQTR0t WOW Thanks to ALL who responded!!! Alas, it is nylon thread. The ash vsmelted ball was not definitive because of the metal in the thread, butthe smell is unmistakable as nylon... I burn a lot of nyloncord/ropes/webb=ingin my other recreational sport of rockclimbing. Thank you! Darrell --=PMail:=_0008@@2S1UBCaDECup3xCQTR0t-- ________________________________________________________NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?Get your FREE Internet Access and Email athttp://www.netzero.net/download.html from SalarFly@aol.com Fri Feb 19 12:20:54 1999 Subject: Pentas! Ok Folks,I just finished testing out a five strip blank I made on my Morgan Hand Mill(taped the guides on, no handle), and here is what I think of pentas. They are great! Everyone says they are stiffer. Stiffer wouldn't be the word I would useif I could come up with a better one. More "Pop" maybe. I can make a stiffer six side rod. The penta had a soft feel for the close in casts, but still didn't give up and collapse for the long casts. I reached the end ofmy casting abilities before the rod even hinted at reaching the end of it'sreserve power. A better caster probably could get another 50% more lineout. Right now I'm wondering why we are all stuck on six sided rods (well,most of us anyway. Should have listened to you sooner Bill). I still have to figure out how to correlate taper diameter to strip depththough... Darryl from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Feb 19 12:24:33 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, Subject: RE: Para 17 There's a PARA 17 listed in Jack Howell's book ifyou have access to a copy. Richard -----Original Message----- Of A.J.Thramer Subject: Para 17 Does anyone have a para 17 taper they would liketo share?A.J.Thramer from gmisch@sprynet.com Fri Feb 19 12:46:33 1999 Subject: RE: munro rods considering that jon doesn't yet have on line ordering, he's been prettyprompt. it took him a lot less time to get me a 60 deg point than it didstarrett.--------------------gary mischcdr, usn (ret.) from HARMS1@prodigy.net Fri Feb 19 13:46:21 1999 ext.prodigy.net OAA143402;Fri, 19 Feb 1999 14:45:59 -0500 Subject: Re: Soaking Strips =_NextPart_000_01BE5C16.686D9300" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5C16.686D9300 Don, No, it's not "another type of cane." The myth about needing to keep canefree from humidity is just that -- a myth. If the bound-moisture (cellularwater) has been driven out of the cane in the long curing process, you neednot concern yourself any longer about the passing effects of normal,ambient humidity when building. That is, EXCEPT for the possibility that strips may have become swollenprior to planing, due to excessively high humidity, and then shrink againafter you have planed to final dimensions (thereby producing a finished rodmay fall a little short of your taper expectations all along its length). Apart from this phase of building, humidity will come and go in the cane,and is not, itself, a structural issue to worry about. Cheers, Bill----------From: Don & Sandy Andersen Cc: bokstrom@axionet.com; owner- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Soaking StripsDate: Thursday, February 18, 1999 5:12 PM At 07:28 PM 2/18/99 EST, TSmithwick@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/18/99 3:24:44 AM, bokstrom@axionet.com wrote: often planing most of the way while they are still wet.>> A couple years ago, John talked me into trying this. It makesstraighteningthe nodes much easier, and eliminates any scorching in the process. Ihavetried it on both blonde and flamed cane. The rods are not noodles andtheroofof my workshop did not collapse. ( I didn't grow hair on my palms,either) Tom, Not my experience Tom - roof collapsed - hair on palms - nite sweats -Moncia stains - the whole 9 yards.But the rods turned out fine - Bokstrom again leads the herd intoblasphemy. Here I've always heard that cane had to be kept in absolutelydry conditions - petted and primed for @ least 25 years and came overwiththe Mayflower before it was any good. Guess that's another type of cane!! Don ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5C16.686D9300 Don,No, it's not = = bound-moisture (cellular water) has been driven out of the cane in the =long curing process, you need not concern yourself any longer about the =passing effects of normal, ambient humidity when building. = become swollen prior to planing, due to = planed to final dimensions (thereby producing a finished rod may fall a =little short of your taper expectations all along its =length).Apart from this phase of building, humidity will come =and go in the cane, and is not, itself, a structural issue to worry =about.Cheers, Bill---------- 2/18/99 = 2/18/99 3:24:44 AM, bokstrom@axionet.com = Mayflower before it was any good. Guess that's another type of = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE5C16.686D9300-- from bjust@bellsouth.net Fri Feb 19 14:35:45 1999 PAA05049 Subject: Re: Para 17 This is from Howell's book. He advises deducting .006 for measurementover varnish. 17/64 ferrulein. Butt Tipo .330 .2585 .330 .24810 .330 .22515 .320 .21020 .314 .20225 .296 .18230 .288 .17635 .284 .14440 .270 .12245 .266 .10250 .264 .08652 .262 .084 Hope this helps. Brian Justiss from bjust@bellsouth.net Fri Feb 19 14:55:28 1999 PAA03310 Subject: Shell epon Where can I get Epon in a larger size than the 2oz. sold by Munro RodCo.? Thanks. Brian Justiss from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Fri Feb 19 15:47:14 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id PAA05197; Fri, 19 Feb1999 15:47:00 -0600 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with SMTP id Subject: Re: Shell epon Brian, Once when the list was discussing SmoothOn epoxy, I tracked down this site which also has Epon in quantities from pintsto gallons: http://www.binghamprojects.com (Phone 801-399-3480) They don't list the specific formulation /hardener # so you willhave to call to find out. Prices seem very reasonable. I wish I could build fast enough to use one 2oz kit in a year :- )......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, BRIAN JUSTISS wrote: Where can I get Epon in a larger size than the 2oz. sold by Munro RodCo.? Thanks. Brian Justiss from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Fri Feb 19 15:53:41 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id PAA07701; Fri, 19 Feb1999 15:53:29 -0600 (8.8.4/8.6.8) with SMTP id Subject: Re: Shell epon http://www.binghamprojects.com (Phone 801-399-3480) Sorry should be -> 801-399-3470guess its friday afternoon. from jczimny@dol.net Fri Feb 19 19:01:58 1999 Subject: Re: munro rods Dear Dan et al:I know that Jon has had some bad times with a machine shop operator whosaidthat his shop could deliver an accurate form and, in fact, could not do so.Jonhas found a better shop and is currently producing forms. I happened to seetheprotype at the MD flyfishing show and it is first rate. I think no one needdoubt Jon's stickatitness and his honesty. He'll deliver.John Z from caneboy@xtn.net Fri Feb 19 19:47:06 1999 Subject: Munro Jon has always come through for me! Remember, as was mentionedpreviously, he is a student. I many of you will recall, those days werequite hectic with little leisure time. from drinkr@voicenet.com Fri Feb 19 19:59:20 1999 0000 (207.103.143.34) Subject: Hexrod98 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE5C4A.70E454E0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE5C4A.70E454E0 ListPlease resubmit the site for the most recent hexrod from Wayne. I dontseemto be able to locate it. Thanks, D. Rinker ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE5C4A.70E454E0 List Rinker ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE5C4A.70E454E0-- from mrmac@tcimet.net Fri Feb 19 21:16:28 1999 Subject: Bluing/browning ferrules I'm getting ready to refit an old rod with new ferrules, replacingchromed brass with nickel silver. I am considering treating them withthe fixer/nitric acid solution approach to turning them a dark browncolor. Has anyone tried this to achieve a brown ferrule? How'd itwork? Next question is: when bluing a ferrule (or browning, as the case maybe), how do you protect the sliding surfaces? Does tape work, or isthere a special trick of the trade that works better? I consideredmating them, and sealing with paraffin, but they are not yet fitted andwon't engage, plus I'm concerned about removing the paraffin when Ifinish. If no one has tried the fixer approach, I'll update on my results afterI finish. Thanks! mac from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Feb 19 21:40:44 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, Subject: Stainless Steel BOUNDARY="Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA) I purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wireto make snake guides. Is there a way to take theshine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? Myold orthodontic retainer has a beautiful, almosttarnished silver look to it but I'd rather notwalk around with snake guides in my mouth for afew days to obtain this. Is there a shortcut? Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA) purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wire to make snake guides. Is= way to take the shine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? My old = retainer has a beautiful, almost tarnished silver look to it but I'd = walk around with snake guides in my mouth for a few days to obtain this. = there a shortcut? Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)-- from joninc@worldnet.att.net Fri Feb 19 22:35:21 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sat, 20 Feb 1999 04:34:48 +0000 Subject: RE: munro rods Dear Dan and List Members, I had recent dealings with Jon, and he went so far as to send me the itemsthat I needed, without so much as a check or credit card number - I neededafew items in a hurry! Of course, I forwarded a check the same day hemailedthe merchandise, but I think it is a reflection on Jon's helpfulness andwillingness to please (Thanks Jon!). I should mention that I had never met,nor had dealings with Jon before this transaction! John Incantalupo from RckyMtKane@aol.com Sat Feb 20 00:26:50 1999Received: from Subject: Re: munro rods Listmembers:I ordered two large spools of Jave Beige and Antique Gold thread the lasttime Jon was so gracious to get an order together. I sent him a check withthe understanding that it was going to be a while before he would get thethread. He didn't even cash the check till I saw the thread. No complaintsonthis side. Come to think of it thanks are very much in order. That's whatmakes this thing so much fun, It's the people you get to deal with. Don'tmissout !!!Joe from TSmithwick@aol.com Sat Feb 20 08:27:58 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Para 17 In a message dated 2/19/99 5:36:12 PM, thramer@presys.com wrote: A.J. - I believe the credit for this 2 piece version goes to Jeff Wagner. Itwas published in TPF #41. I cast it at Roscoe a few years ago, and wastotallyimpressed.0-.0855-.09810-.11315-.13120-.15525-.17830- .19435-.20940-.21845-.23250-.24855-.26260-.26465-.27070-.28275- .29480-.30585-.31390-.32295-.322100-.322105-.322 from NKeach@aol.com Sat Feb 20 08:42:52 1999 Subject: ferrule sources Who do you recommend as a source for ferrules? thank you Neal from Nodewrrior@aol.com Sat Feb 20 09:19:57 1999 Subject: Re: Bluing/browning ferrules I've used the fixer/acid solution in Gaarison/Carmichael and if you can getitto work right, it looks great. It seems that it doesn't like the solderaroundthe joints, and it's difficult to make it oxidize evenly before it goes topurple. But the effect is nice. Rob Hoffhines from pyork@ipa.net Sat Feb 20 11:42:07 1999 Subject: Re: munro rods I have placed orders a couple of times with Jon with quick service. But, Inthe first transaction I ordered several things including 3 - 60* points,Only got one of them with the order. Have contacted him several timesaboutthis but I'm having a hard time getting him to send them. It has put me ina bind as I damaged the first one and now I don't have a accurte point formy caliper. So, Jon if you read this, Send me the other 2 points. PLEASE. Paul At 2:49 PM -0000 2/19/99, w.d. gatliff wrote:hey guys,anyone else have difficulty receiving purchases from jon lintvet ??wil ______________________________________,,,,,\|/,.(_ /|\____________________________________ from pyork@ipa.net Sat Feb 20 11:52:56 1999 Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Richard,I use rolls of stainless steel wire in sizes .035 and .040 that I get fromBass Pro. It's the same wire that is used to make spinning lures and buzzbaits. I also use it to make pins for butt caps. It has a nice patina.Works well for me.Paul At 3:42 AM -0000 2/20/99, Richard Nantel wrote:-- Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)Content-type: text/plainContent- transfer-encoding: 7bit I purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wireto make snake guides. Is there a way to take theshine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? Myold orthodontic retainer has a beautiful, almosttarnished silver look to it but I'd rather notwalk around with snake guides in my mouth for afew days to obtain this. Is there a shortcut? Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA) Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wire to make snake guides. Is= way to take the shine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? My old = retainer has a beautiful, almost tarnished silver look to it but I'd = walk around with snake guides in my mouth for a few days to obtain this.= there a shortcut? size=3D2>Richard (514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)-- ______________________________________,,,,,\|/,.(_ /|\____________________________________ from mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu Sat Feb 20 12:07:45 1999 12:06:53 -0600 R8.30.00.7) Subject: Son of Cork order Did anyone ever receive anything from Davy Riggs in this cork order effort? Does anyone have an email address for Davy? I sent him some money as part of this venture, not a lot but I would still like to see something out of it. It seems it has been an inordinately long time since this started. Any news?Thanks.Jon McAnulty from chris@artistree.com Sat Feb 20 13:30:00 1999 Subject: Re: Bluing/browning ferrules mac-creator="4D4F5353" Have had problems with this as well so I just tried REC's new UniFerrules.Theseare machined from solid bar stock with no solder involved. Bluing looksbetterthan ever. No commercial interest just my observations.--Best Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com Nodewrrior@aol.com wrote: It seems that it doesn't like the solder around the joints... Rob Hoffhines from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Sat Feb 20 15:04:29 1999 SMTP(Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1); Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:04:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Munro Just wanted to drop a note and say thanks to everyone for piping up inresponse to Wil's question. I wish I could have everything in stock all thetime but even Starrett gets back ordered and causes me problems. Ifanyonehasn't received something, drop a line (both e-mail and phone). A lot ofproblems arise because we all have gotten used to e-mail and think it isinfallible. I would hope everyone would send an e-mail and call if there isa pressing issue. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- Subject: Munro Jon has always come through for me! Remember, as was mentionedpreviously, he is a student. I many of you will recall, those days werequite hectic with little leisure time. from JAQFOLL@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 20 15:39:09 1999 mtiwmhc05.worldnet.att.net(InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sat, 20 Feb 1999 21:38:36 +0000 Subject: Re: Shell epon Brian:I purchased quarts of Epon resin and Epi-cure 3140 curing agent fromMiller-Stephenson Chemical, Danbury, CN 203-743-4447 Jack from WayneCatt@aol.com Sat Feb 20 16:46:09 1999 Subject: Re: Hexrod98 Dave -If you haven't gotten the address yet it is:cyber.wmis.net/~cattanac/ The main program is hexbuild.zip - after you have installed that keepchecking back at the site - any revision is posted (ie hex170.zip) -at thatpoint you can simply download the new exe file and copy it over the old tobeupdated - there is a new revision coming shortly to deal with someprintingother issues - the taper.zip is an assortment of tapers already to workwiththe program. Wayne from Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 20 17:20:08 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP +0000 Subject: Bamboo Blanks I am looking for a source of bamboo blanks. Any suggestions would beappreciated.I have refinished a couple of rods and would like to now finish a newbamboorod. The next step may be to go all the way, but I'm not there yet. from thramer@presys.com Sat Feb 20 19:12:28 1999 0000 Subject: Para responses Thanks to all who helped with the para 17 taper. The list is mostgenerous as always and I greatly appreciate everyones time andassistance.A.J. ps of course I have to figure out .. will the real para 17 please stepforward :) With a Young rod all are probably correct at one time oranother from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 20 23:07:37 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Sun, 21 Feb 1999 05:07:05 +0000 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks Cabela's sell both Sharpe's of Aberdeen and Partridge bamboo blanks. Theyhave an easy-to-remember phone number (1-800-CABELAS). Usual disclaimers regarding having no financial interest apply. George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: Bamboo Blanks I am looking for a source of bamboo blanks. Any suggestions would beappreciated.I have refinished a couple of rods and would like to now finish a newbamboorod. The next step may be to go all the way, but I'm not there yet. from saltwein@swbell.net Sun Feb 21 06:54:36 1999 GAA17963 Subject: Re: Para 17 Tom, What was the line rating for the para-17 you posted? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 21 07:12:49 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks All,An interesting question, and one with the potential to start anotherroyalbrouhaha, arises in my mind: When someone posts a request for a source ofblanks we don't seem to all jump out and say "Me, me, buy mine!!" (I'mbasing this on the obvious lack of reaction at this site after such aquery.) Are people e-mailing off-list or are we respecting all of ourcolleagues' talents and sensibilities by refraining from offering our ownwares to a potential "lamb" who wanders in off the street? I'm sure thatatleast SOME of us could offer a blank AT LEAST the equal of Cabela's,probably at a savings to the purchaser (and that may very well be thereason the requester posted).I for one feel that the nature of the list imposes the ethic that I notrespond immediately with some sort of offering but I wonder how the restofus deal with the tug between ammortizing our not-inconsiderableinvestmentand our desire to remain as one-o'-the-guys.I've been considering whether to raise this since the posting- requestandfinally decided that it would be more interesting than devisive to explore.Any takers?Art At 09:10 PM 2/20/99 -0800, irish-george wrote:Cabela's sell both Sharpe's of Aberdeen and Partridge bamboo blanks. Theyhave an easy-to-remember phone number (1-800-CABELAS). Usual disclaimers regarding having no financial interest apply. George Bourke-----Original Message-----From: Charles E. Nightengale Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 3:27 PMSubject: Bamboo Blanks I am looking for a source of bamboo blanks. Any suggestions would beappreciated.I have refinished a couple of rods and would like to now finish a newbamboorod. The next step may be to go all the way, but I'm not there yet. from TSmithwick@aol.com Sun Feb 21 07:36:28 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Para 17 In a message dated 2/21/99 12:57:51 PM, saltwein@swbell.net wrote: Steve, The Planing Form lists it as an 8 weight, I honestly don't rememberexactly what was on it when I was casting it, but it was either an 8 or 9WF.Jeff was planning to use it in salt water. I always hesitate to recommendataper to anyone without seeing them cast. If you have some experiencewithparabolic rods and can handle the somewhat tricky timing, you will findthisan exceptional caster. What is needed is a somewhat slower wrist motion,and aconfident double haul. If you prefer a more progressive type of action, Iwould consider the Garrison 221, which does not have quite the distancecasting capability, but is much less tricky to cast. from darrell01@netzero.net Sun Feb 21 08:13:08 1999 (209.154.170.98) Subject: Re[2]: Bamboo Blanks & tips boundary="=PMail:=_0001@@YR8V19vNpuBu8GJC7TQA" --=PMail:=_0001@@YR8V19vNpuBu8GJC7TQA I too am curious as I as I'm not a rod maker (yet, but wishing I was)but in need of several tip sections for various projects where commercialtips sections are simply not available or too expensive (often the costis more than I paid for the rod). While commercialism is not the focus of the list, Art does raise a goodpoint that the cost of getting started can be quite expensive or timeconsuming OR both and perhaps some of you talented craftsmen or womencould obtain a little financial relief by providing a much need service I'd prefer to see a little bit of commercialism over some of the pastthreads that had little to do with rod making and more to do aboutphilosop=hy. My two cents. Darrell Lee =(not to be confused with the many other Darryl's on the list, perhapsjust confused...) --=PMail:=_0001@@YR8V19vNpuBu8GJC7TQA-- ________________________________________________________NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet. Shouldn't you?Get your FREE Internet Access and Email athttp://www.netzero.net/download.html from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Sun Feb 21 08:13:09 1999 Sun, 21 Feb 1999 08:10:30 -0600 Subject: Re: Son of Cork order Jon,This is the email address I have for Davy.David More than a few of us are getting a little bit antsy. I hope you (we) getsome satisfaction, but in Davy's defense, let me mention that I've puttogetherthis tyep of thing in the past and it can be a real pain in the neck. My owninteractions with Davy lead me to believe that eventually he will comethroughwith flying colors.Harry Boyd Does anyone have an email address for Davy? from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sun Feb 21 08:54:51 1999 mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu, ragnarig@integrityol.com Subject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues on arod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and cons andworking times. Bret from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 21 09:05:01 1999 Subject: An observation I think I may have found an outlet for our oven-errors--thatblackenedstuff we get when we first test out our heaters? In today's Sunday NYTimesAutomobiles Section there is a critique of a new Isuzu model, theVehicross. It has among other innovations, "faux-carbon-fiber trim". Whatthe H**L is faux-carbon-fiber????? Can I be right in presuming it's aretroword for CANE?If you're not thinking this way maybe you're not smoking what I'm smoking(or just not inhaling).Sorry for the non-building bandwidth but I just couldn't overcome oneofRobert Traver's "irresistible impulses" (Remember Anatomy of a Murder?).Art from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Sun Feb 21 09:55:10 1999 SMTP(Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1); Sun, 21 Feb 1999 10:54:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond II It is my understanding the TBII is modestly water resistant. I use TBIIandhave had great results with nodeless sections. Short working time andstrong as anything I have seen. I hesitate to say this, but I even have anentire rod glued up with it....talk about short working time! Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu; ragnarig@integrityol.com Subject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues on arod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and cons andworking times.Bret from jaquin@netsync.net Sun Feb 21 10:28:59 1999 "Rodmakers (E-mail)" Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Paul York wrote: Richard,I use rolls of stainless steel wire in sizes .035 and .040 that I get fromBass Pro. It's the same wire that is used to make spinning lures and buzzbaits. I also use it to make pins for butt caps. It has a nice patina.Works well for me.Paul At 3:42 AM -0000 2/20/99, Richard Nantel wrote:-- Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)Content-type: text/plainContent- transfer-encoding: 7bit I purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wireto make snake guides. Is there a way to take theshine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? Myold orthodontic retainer has a beautiful, almosttarnished silver look to it but I'd rather notwalk around with snake guides in my mouth for afew days to obtain this. Is there a shortcut? Richard richard.nantel@videotron.ca(514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA) Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable purchased some orthodontic stainless steel wire to make snake guides.Is = way to take the shine off stainless steel or darken it a bit? My old = retainer has a beautiful, almost tarnished silver look to it but I'd = walk around with snake guides in my mouth for a few days to obtainthis. = there a shortcut? size=3D2>Richard (514) 485-2287 --Boundary_(ID_JI7YaH4UEereJFKC6ohmrA)-- ______________________________________,,,,,\|/,.(_ /|\____________________________________hi all, if you're looking for stainless steel wire, MSC sells it instraight 12 inch lengths in 100 piece lots. Just purchaced some indiameters .022 to .031 for making guides. They also sell this musicwire in high carbon steel. you get four guides per piece. have plentyin both SS and HCS if you need/want to try some! jerry from cotner@novagate.com Sun Feb 21 12:17:03 1999 Subject: Source for trolling rod blanks I've been lurking here for a couple weeks and am fascinated by theknowledge in this group. I've never made a bamboo rod but hope towithin the near future.My brother-in-law asked me where he can get blanks for building atrolling rod. Any suggestions?Thanks in advance.Regards,Roger CotnerGrand Haven, Michigan from bobspring@yahoo.com Sun Feb 21 13:29:20 1999 1999 11:28:56 PST Subject: Re: Ralph Moon in hospital I just came from visiting Ralph at University of Utah Hospital. Hisdefibrulator is not working right and they may have to operatetomorrow. A call or a note would be very much appreciated. University Hospital801-585-800050 North Medical DriveSalt Lake City, UT 84132 Bob Springmeyer _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Feb 21 15:46:20 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id AF053490208; Sun, 21 Feb 1999 16:47:49 EST Subject: Re: Ralph Moon in hospital Bob,I just spoke to Ralph. He's feeling chipper. They will probablyreprogram him (his pacemaker) and if that works he won't need anoperation to install a new one.Otherwise, he is ready to split out the tips for Bob's rod.Best regards,Reed Bob Springmeyer wrote: I just came from visiting Ralph at University of Utah Hospital. Hisdefibrulator is not working right and they may have to operatetomorrow. A call or a note would be very much appreciated. University Hospital801-585-800050 North Medical DriveSalt Lake City, UT 84132 Bob Springmeyer_________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Feb 21 17:08:12 1999 Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Richard,You can darken stainless wire in an oxidizingsolution. I know it will work in the solution I sell. It mayalso work in the photo fixer that some of the guys are using,but I'm not sure. Dave LeClair from dpeaston@wzrd.com Sun Feb 21 17:35:34 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks At 09:10 PM 2/20/99 -0800, irish-george wrote:Cabela's sell both Sharpe's of Aberdeen and Partridge bamboo blanks. Theyhave an easy-to-remember phone number (1-800-CABELAS). Usual disclaimers regarding having no financial interest apply. George Bourke-----Original Message-----From: Charles E. Nightengale Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 3:27 PMSubject: Bamboo Blanks I am looking for a source of bamboo blanks. Any suggestions would beappreciated.I have refinished a couple of rods and would like to now finish a newbamboorod. The next step may be to go all the way, but I'm not there yet. Yes, I have built on one of these blanks, a 7.5' rod for 5 and 6 weighing 5 oz.A nice rod, easy to cast and having considerable authority. The blanks are impregnated and require no varnishing. Disclaimer: Althugh I amo of scotish ancestory I have no connection withSharpes or the Scottie. Doug EastonTonawanda, NY from Michael.Roberts@health.wa.gov.au Sun Feb 21 18:34:09 1999 (5.5.2232.9) owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu, mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu,ragnarig@integrityol.com Subject: RE: Titebond or Titebond II BretI thought I'd post my answer to your question on the list as theremay be others who are interested. I should also mention that I'm onlyhalfway through my second rod so my experience is naturally somewhatlimited. I also seem to recall reading somewhere that Darryl has madecomplete rods using Titebond II so he could probably tell you a lot morethan I can. I use Titebond II (it has higher water resistance than the originalTitebond)for the splices in nodeless rods and so far I've had excellentresults. The only downside I can think of is that it doesn't seem to like alot of heat. For example, after an absolute flogging, my first rod (Sir D#4) took a slight set. The Resoucinol glue that binds the six stripstogether can be heated up enough to straighten, however, I know fromexperience that Titebond II, while it can be heated enough to straighten, isjust as likely to fail. It's a damned fine line. I'm carrying on an e-mail conversation at the moment with DonMcCloskey who is the international business director for FranklinInternational (the company that makes Titebond). As well as being a niceguy, he's also a fly fisherman which probably explains why he is taking thetime to help someone like me: I can't really imagine my tiny purchaseshaving a positive impact on Franklin's share prices...can you? Anyway, Don is finding out if there is a more heat resistant form ofTitebond II available for me. I'll keep you posted on the outcome if you'reinterested. Mike Roberts -----Original Message----- mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu; ragnarig@integrityol.com Subject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues on arod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and cons andworking times. Bret from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Sun Feb 21 19:34:06 1999 1999 17:34:21 PST Subject: lathe help Can someone tell a newbie who is still tooling up to make his firstrod whether a Southbend bench model metal lathe with a 9" swing, alongwith some chucks and collets for $1250 is a good deal? I know, itisn't much information. I'm still recovering from sticker shock onhow much a lathe will cost (used) for ferrules and cork attention. Mywood lathe, that won't do because the headstock is solid, was muchless than this. In general, does anyone know of a source for a goodquality used lathe that would serve a lifetime of bamboo rod building?Thanks!! Jeff _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from channer@hubwest.com Sun Feb 21 19:46:46 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A78134F0120; Sun, 21 Feb 1999 18:48:49 MST Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks At 08:13 AM 2/21/99 -0500, Art Port wrote:All,An interesting question, and one with the potential to start anotherroyalbrouhaha, arises in my mind: When someone posts a request for a sourceofblanks we don't seem to all jump out and say "Me, me, buy mine!!" (I'mbasing this on the obvious lack of reaction at this site after such aquery.) Are people e-mailing off-list or are we respecting all of ourcolleagues' talents and sensibilities by refraining from offering our ownwares to a potential "lamb" who wanders in off the street? I'm sure thatatleast SOME of us could offer a blank AT LEAST the equal of Cabela's,probably at a savings to the purchaser (and that may very well be thereason the requester posted).I for one feel that the nature of the list imposes the ethic that I notrespond immediately with some sort of offering but I wonder how therest ofus deal with the tug between ammortizing our not-inconsiderableinvestmentand our desire to remain as one-o'-the-guys.I've been considering whether to raise this since the posting- requestandfinally decided that it would be more interesting than devisive toexplore.Any takers?Art At 09:10 PM 2/20/99 -0800, irish-george wrote:Cabela's sell both Sharpe's of Aberdeen and Partridge bamboo blanks. Theyhave an easy-to-remember phone number (1-800-CABELAS). Usual disclaimers regarding having no financial interest apply. George Bourke-----Original Message-----From: Charles E. Nightengale Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 3:27 PMSubject: Bamboo Blanks I am looking for a source of bamboo blanks. Any suggestions would beappreciated.I have refinished a couple of rods and would like to now finish a newbamboorod. The next step may be to go all the way, but I'm not there yet. Art;Even tho I sell my rods (thru a local fly shop and by referal, and ofcourse to those I bump into on the river), it has never even occurred to meto pipe up when someone asks for a blank. I sell finished rods, period, notblanks or kits or anything else. I at least want to cast my children beforethey leave home. I suppose this has something to do with hand planing onerod at a time, I am so familiar with them by the time they are done that Ihave an attachment to them, probably unhealthy, and I want to see themfinished out. John from channer@hubwest.com Sun Feb 21 19:50:43 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A86E602013E; Sun, 21 Feb 1999 18:52:46 MST Subject: Re: An observation At 10:05 AM 2/21/99 -0500, Art Port wrote:I think I may have found an outlet for our oven-errors--thatblackenedstuff we get when we first test out our heaters? In today's Sunday NYTimesAutomobiles Section there is a critique of a new Isuzu model, theVehicross. It has among other innovations, "faux-carbon-fiber trim". Whatthe H**L is faux-carbon-fiber????? Can I be right in presuming it's aretroword for CANE?If you're not thinking this way maybe you're not smoking what I'msmoking(or just not inhaling).Sorry for the non-building bandwidth but I just couldn't overcomeone ofRobert Traver's "irresistible impulses" (Remember Anatomy of aMurder?).Art Art;Sounds like what those other kinds of fishin poles is made of, you know,faux fly rods. John from mrj@aa.net Sun Feb 21 19:52:47 1999 Sun, 21 Feb 1999 17:52:26 -0800 Subject: RE: Ralph Moon in hospital Tell him that they (doctors) are going to flash his bios. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Ralph Moon in hospital Bob,I just spoke to Ralph. He's feeling chipper. They will probablyreprogram him (his pacemaker) and if that works he won't need anoperation to install a new one.Otherwise, he is ready to split out the tips for Bob's rod.Best regards,Reed Bob Springmeyer wrote: I just came from visiting Ralph at University of Utah Hospital. Hisdefibrulator is not working right and they may have to operatetomorrow. A call or a note would be very much appreciated. University Hospital801-585-800050 North Medical DriveSalt Lake City, UT 84132 Bob Springmeyer_________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from bacon@idt.net Sun Feb 21 20:57:58 1999 Subject: is it the same as crossdressing? rodbuilders,i am alas, finally coming out of the closet. yes, i do fish withgraphite rods, and am even now in the process of wrapping a "plastic"rod whilst i try desperately to construct a rod of the precious tonkinfriggin cane. (that wasn't a curse)it is driving me absolutely nuts, i have lost any self esteem which,heretofore i prided myself on. my planing, measuring abilities aresorely lacking any skill whatsoever.....so should i go back to graphite,which was much more forgiving????...sorry, i just HAD to vent. there'snobody else in the universe who would understand but you guys...don't answer, just understand, thanks, jean from jczimny@dol.net Sun Feb 21 21:23:06 1999 Subject: Re: lathe help If the bearings are OK, it is a good buy.John Zimny-----Original Message----- Subject: lathe help Can someone tell a newbie who is still tooling up to make his firstrod whether a Southbend bench model metal lathe with a 9" swing, alongwith some chucks and collets for $1250 is a good deal? I know, itisn't much information. I'm still recovering from sticker shock onhow much a lathe will cost (used) for ferrules and cork attention. Mywood lathe, that won't do because the headstock is solid, was muchless than this. In general, does anyone know of a source for a goodquality used lathe that would serve a lifetime of bamboo rod building?Thanks!! Jeff _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun Feb 21 21:54:31 1999 irish-george@worldnet.att.net, Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: An observation Art, It can't be cane-it's "faux" which means it's either fiber glass orgraphite.Hank-I've been in the rod shop longer than is good for anyone- Woolman. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun Feb 21 21:54:58 1999 irish-george@worldnet.att.net, Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Re: Bamboo Blanks Art et al,I, for one, put to much effort into making a blank to sell it-I'll dobetter financially if I finish it and sell it as a finished rod. This is notto say I haven't made blanks for a few select friends. Just my $.02.Hank W. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Sun Feb 21 21:58:23 1999 irish-george@worldnet.att.net, Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Re: Bamboo Blanks Doug,A 7.5' rod weighing 5 oz. seems a bit heavy to me even if it is a 6 wgt.Regards,Hank W. from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Sun Feb 21 23:08:31 1999 (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id FAA54176 for ;Mon, 22 Feb 199905:08:28 GMT Subject: New Member I'm new at this (well I guess 4 graphites doesn't count) & would like toget into building cane rods, I've been wading my way through theArchives plus a few books - Garrison/Carmichael, The Bamboo Fly Rod,etc, to try & sort out some of the excellent info (albeit sometimesconflicting, but that's what makes it interesting). For now I wonder ifthere is anybody out there in (or near Calgary, Alberta) who is gettinginto this. It would be helpful to sit down & talk to somebody who hasgone through (or ideally is starting up) some of the steps required. Iknow Don Andersen (I have one of his 7' 9" 5 wt beauties) & he iswilling to help me out but it would also be nice to find anotherbeginner so we can maybe split some of the initial investments (i.e caneorders, binders, planning forms etc.).Anyway keep the info flowing through the Group, I may catch up on myreading by about the end of March. CheersCraig Naldrett (AKA Bubba) from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 21 23:12:38 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Mon, 22 Feb 1999 05:12:06 +0000 Subject: Re: lathe help That is almost to the penny what I paid for my 9" South Bend lathe latelastyear (I think I got a good deal). The preferred model (unless you like tochange gears) is the model A which has the quick change gearbox. JustFYI,the South Bend that I got has the 4-1/2' long bed and had been in home use Based on my experience in trying to buy a 9" South Bend for about 7months,I'm surprised that there is enough time to ask if it is a good deal! Good luck,George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: lathe help Can someone tell a newbie who is still tooling up to make his firstrod whether a Southbend bench model metal lathe with a 9" swing, alongwith some chucks and collets for $1250 is a good deal? I know, itisn't much information. I'm still recovering from sticker shock onhow much a lathe will cost (used) for ferrules and cork attention. Mywood lathe, that won't do because the headstock is solid, was muchless than this. In general, does anyone know of a source for a goodquality used lathe that would serve a lifetime of bamboo rod building?Thanks!! Jeff _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from saweiss@flash.net Sun Feb 21 23:21:39 1999 Subject: Re: lathe help Can someone tell a newbie who is still tooling up to make his first>rodwhether a Southbend bench model metal lathe with a 9" swing, alongwith some chucks and collets for $1250 is a good deal? I know, itisn't much information. I'm still recovering from sticker shock onhow much a lathe will cost (used) for ferrules and cork attention. Mywood lathe, that won't do because the headstock is solid, was muchless than this. In general, does anyone know of a source for a goodquality used lathe that would serve a lifetime of bamboo rod building?Thanks!! JeffIf in good condition, you will have a good buy that will last your lifetimeand someone else's as well. Parts and accessories are available,frequentlyon e-bay.Steve from Nodewrrior@aol.com Sun Feb 21 23:25:57 1999 Subject: Re: is it the same as crossdressing? Jean,All is forgiven guy, I have a Scott 8'8" 9wt blank ordered for bonefish. I'dhave a hard time submitting one of my lovelies (or my arm) to a saltwaterassault.-First synth I've done in 3 years by the way.Sounds like you're still in rod #1, wait 'til you catch your firstfish...remember the first one on a fly YOU made? Well, there you go... Rob Hoffhines from saweiss@flash.net Sun Feb 21 23:43:50 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks All,An interesting question, and one with the potential to start anotherroyalbrouhaha, arises in my mind: When someone posts a request for a sourceofblanks we don't seem to all jump out and say "Me, me, buy mine!!" (I'mbasing this on the obvious lack of reaction at this site after such aquery.) Are people e-mailing off-list or are we respecting all of ourcolleagues' talents and sensibilities by refraining from offering our ownwares to a potential "lamb" who wanders in off the street? I'm sure thatatleast SOME of us could offer a blank AT LEAST the equal of Cabela's, Art,I am sure that there are a few makers on this list who sell blanks,particularly those folks who can make them faster than I can. I haverefuseda few requests, one from a professional rod-builder.Having finished only six rods, I would rather make complete rods formyself and for an occasional customer.Steve from hhholland@erols.com Mon Feb 22 07:09:14 1999 , ,, Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond II Mike,Very definitely keep the list posted on any Titebond developments -- itsounds interesting!Hank H. I'm carrying on an e-mail conversation at the moment with DonMcCloskey who is the international business director for FranklinInternational (the company that makes Titebond). As well as being a niceguy, he's also a fly fisherman which probably explains why he is takingthetime to help someone like me: >Anyway, Don is finding out if there is a more heat resistant form ofTitebond II available for me. I'll keep you posted on the outcome ifyou'reinterested. Mike Roberts -----Original Message----- Sent: Sunday, 21 February 1999 22:50 mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu; ragnarig@integrityol.comCc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues on arod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and cons andworking times.Bret from michael@wugate.wustl.edu Mon Feb 22 09:20:38 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks Art first raises the question... I for one feel that the nature of the list imposes the ethic that I notrespond immediately with some sort of offering but I wonder how therest ofus deal with the tug between ammortizing our not-inconsiderableinvestmentand our desire to remain as one-o'-the-guys.I've been considering whether to raise this since the posting-requestandfinally decided that it would be more interesting than devisive toexplore. All, again, I feel one of the major benefits of this list is that a personcan post a question like "where can I get a good bamboo blank". And againI urge any of you out there that feels you can supply what is being soughtto please let this person know. BUT...please do it via private email!!!The list is not the place to conduct business. 'nough said... And just a note to the new folks out there - and this is just my personalopinion here. Whether it be that you are looking for just a blank, or acompleted rod one thing you should bear in mind. The list has rodmakersatall levels of experience... from those who have yet to make their first rod,to some of the top rodmakers in the world. If you are new to cane rods,stick around the list for a while before seeking out a rodmaker for apotential order. The experience and knowledge you pick up will helpgreatly when deciding on a maker to make that rod for you. Mike BiondoRODMAKERS Listguy from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Feb 22 09:21:04 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks Happy99.exe Name: Happy99.exeType: unspecified type (application/octet- stream)Encoding: x-uuencode from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Feb 22 09:21:10 1999 , ,, Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks I've made a few blanks for friends, but the blank, its taper and my workare its heart and soul. I ask 65% of what a finished rod costs and thisdeters most further requests. ----------From: FISHWOOL@aol.com irish-george@worldnet.att.net; Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Bamboo BlanksDate: Sunday, February 21, 1999 10:53 PM Art et al,I, for one, put to much effort into making a blank to sell it-I'll dobetter financially if I finish it and sell it as a finished rod. This isnotto say I haven't made blanks for a few select friends. Just my $.02.Hank W. from teekay35@interlynx.net Mon Feb 22 09:29:45 1999 Subject: Bamboo Blanks I sent a response to the list regarding my practice with blanks but seemtobe getting something else . . . shooting stars, something a friend sent melast week. Dont know what I did, but this computer has been doing funnythings lately. from plantboy@siu.edu Mon Feb 22 09:34:51 1999 Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:34:03 -0600 Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:36:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks....VIRUS IN ATTACHMENT. General Virus warning I'm sure this wasn't on purpose Ted, but just so you know the attachementyou sent is infected with the 'happyworm 99 virus', or so my virussoftwaretells me. Those of you not using a virus protection program should not open it andthose of you with outdated programs should have them updated. Fair warning. Eric A. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks from anglport@con2.com Mon Feb 22 09:53:21 1999 , ,, Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks Ted and All,I HOPE this is a scare and not to worry about but I read at the Ziff-DavisSite that the Happy 99 exe file is a "worm" amd that you DON'T want to runit!!!! It is not as serious as a virus and won't harm your computer but itapparently causes your e-mail and other functions to send thaings outagaainst your will or without your knowledge. Again, they said if you don't"run" it you don't have to worry.Art At 10:12 AM 2/22/99 -0500, Ted Knott wrote:I've made a few blanks for friends, but the blank, its taper and my workare its heart and soul. I ask 65% of what a finished rod costs and thisdeters most further requests. ----------From: FISHWOOL@aol.com irish-george@worldnet.att.net; Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net;rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Bamboo BlanksDate: Sunday, February 21, 1999 10:53 PM Art et al,I, for one, put to much effort into making a blank to sell it-I'll dobetter financially if I finish it and sell it as a finished rod. This isnotto say I haven't made blanks for a few select friends. Just my $.02.Hank W. from FlyTyr@southshore.com Mon Feb 22 10:13:14 1999 (8.8.5/8.7.3) withESMTP id KAA28116; Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:14:57 -0600 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks Ted Knott wrote: I sent a response to the list regarding my practice with blanks but seemtobe getting something else . . . shooting stars, something a friend sent melast week. Dont know what I did, but this computer has been doing funnythings lately. You got the Happy 99 Virus.See belowTony I all here is the info on that HAPPY99 Virus I don't know what happenedto the I sent out yesterday. There is a new virus making the rounds that I think you should be awareof. It’s only been recently identified anddesignated as WS32/Ska. It’s also known as Win32/Ska,Wsock32/Ska,Happy99, and etc. You download it as anattachment to an email message or from a news group and it’susually called Happy99.exe. When you execute the attachment, you see a window titled Happy 1999which presents you with a display of fireworks andthat seems to be all there is to it. However, while your watching thefireworks, the program has made several changes to yoursystem. It may begin right away, or it may start after you reboot, butthe next time you send an email message or post to a newsgroup, a second message or posting will go to the recipient without yourknowledge. There will be no title to the secondmessage, but Happy99.exe will be an attachment. It is not known ifsomething more sinister will happen at a later date, but thepassing of this virus to all your acquaintances, and them to theirs, isbad enough. As you can see, the attachment could come from even a trusted source, as they won’t know they’ve sentit. A quick way to check for the existence of this virus on your machine isto double-click "My Computer"; right-click on your "C:"drive; left-click on "Find…"; type "*.ska"; and left-click on"Find Now". If you come up with any files at all with the suffix".ska", you have the virus. Contact me and I’ll help you clean it.If you find nothing you’re clean. If you want to research on your own, "Datafellows.com" (F-PROT) had thisfirst, then "NAI.com" (McAfee). This month'sMcafee "Names", "Scan", and "Clean" file downloads have this coveredalong with a number of new Word97 viruses. The"Symantec" (Norton) site has yet to pick it up. Al from briansr@point-net.com Mon Feb 22 10:21:22 1999 0000 Subject: DON"T OPEN HAPPY99 WORM Don't open Happy 99 exe .THIS ONE"S REALInfo on this"worm " virus on Symantic's site .Includes info on removingmanually Address for Sympantic info on this %$^&is http://sympantic.com/avcenter/venc/data/happy99.worm.html. Brian from dmanders@telusplanet.net Mon Feb 22 11:03:23 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Mon, 22 Feb 199910:03:15 - 0700 Subject: Re: Bamboo Blanks "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Tony, Can I just delete the virus from my attachment file without causing thevirus to give me grief providing I haven't opened it? Don from Turbotrk@aol.com Mon Feb 22 11:15:00 1999 Subject: tulip poplar Hey if anyone wants a peice of freshly cut tulip poplar to make a reel seatout of, drop me a note and they can have it for the price of postage. Justcut one down and have alot of the pretty green heart wood. Stuart Miller from bobspring@yahoo.com Mon Feb 22 18:46:57 1999 1999 16:46:21 PST Subject: Re: Ralph Moon in hospital I just spoke with Ralph. They adjusted his device externally, andhave modified his med's. He is feeling great, and expects to check out tomorrow. He said he will be in the Bamboo Fly Rod booth next week "come hell orhigh water". He and Pat very much appreciate all of you who called or sent notes. Bob Springmeyer University Hospital801-585-8000 _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from dpeaston@wzrd.com Mon Feb 22 21:06:31 1999 irish-george@worldnet.att.net, Charlie.Nightengale@worldnet.att.net,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Re: Bamboo Blanks At 10:53 PM 2/21/99 EST, FISHWOOL@aol.com wrote:Doug,A 7.5' rod weighing 5 oz. seems a bit heavy to me even if it is a 6 wgt.Regards,Hank W. Hank, Thanks 4 an 1/8, that's all up, Bellenger reel seat, western (Grangerstyle) cork, wraps & ferrules included. She ain't heavy she's . . . I donot know what came over me. I forgot to tare! Regards, -DougPS. This is a 7.5 foot Sharpes Scottie.____________(____________|===========================o/ 0 \ / | \__/ \ / Douglas Easton | \ / |\____/ Dpeaston@wzrd.com | |* from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon Feb 22 21:32:08 1999 Subject: Re: lathe help Jeff,If the bearings and ways are in good shape, it is a goodprice. I use a South Bend 9in. tool room lathe here in my shop. There isn't much you Can't do with this lathe. I makeferrules, reel seat components, grips. Also, being a GunsmithI have made all kinds of parts, including rifle barrels in mySouth Bend. Dave eclairThe Fly and rod room from dpeaston@wzrd.com Mon Feb 22 21:54:05 1999 Subject: Re: DON"T OPEN HAPPY99 WORM At 11:18 AM 2/22/99 -0500, Brian Sturrock wrote:Don't open Happy 99 exe .THIS ONE"S REALInfo on this"worm " virus on Symantic's site .Includes info on removingmanually Address for Sympantic info on this %$^&is http://sympantic.com/avcenter/venc/data/happy99.worm.html. Brian Just to make it easier:1.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE 2.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL 3.replace WINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.DLL withWINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.SKA You will need to closeyour net connection and re-start the computer to do this(ifWsock32.DLL is in use you can't replace it).4.delete the downloaded file, usually namedHAPPY99.EXE I just did all this and survived! Regards,-Doug from rfairfie@cisco.com Mon Feb 22 22:54:36 1999 SMTP id UAA04488 Subject: my favorite taper... All, I'd like to share with the list my favorite taper. Guess that you couldsay that I'vebecome a paraholic. This one is based on Paul Young's para 15 found in thetaper archives onthe web site. It has been scaled to 7' 0" and 50 feet of 4 wt double taperline. 1 .0665 .08010 .10015 .11620 .13325 .14830 .16535 .18440 .20145 .21450 .22555 .23260 .24065 .25070 .26175 .27380 .28985 .298 The ferrule is 13/64 at 42". Thanks,Roger from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Mon Feb 22 23:47:02 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Tue, 23 Feb 1999 05:46:30 +0000 Subject: Re: lathe help One other note that might interest people who've bought South Bend lathes.I found an alternate source for things such as steady rests and followerrests (new from South Bend they can be $300-400, used can go for $175-200).The place I bought my steady rest is Plaza Machinery in Bethel, VT(802-234- 9673)...the steady rest is NOT genuine South Bend...Plaza clonesthem locally...quality was comparable to SB and price was below used SBprice. They also part out machines (as well as selling complete ones)...Ipicked up a missing closing sleeve and knockout nut for my SB colletcloser from them (try to find THOSE!!!). The list they sent me has several hundreditems listed (mostly home shop size equipment, not lathes with 70" swingand240" cc). Again, I have no financial interest in the above- namedcompany...I'm just a happy customer! George Bourke-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: lathe help Jeff,If the bearings and ways are in good shape, it is a goodprice. I use a South Bend 9in. tool room lathe here in myshop. There isn't much you Can't do with this lathe. I makeferrules, reel seat components, grips. Also, being a GunsmithI have made all kinds of parts, including rifle barrels in mySouth Bend. Dave eclairThe Fly and rod room from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Tue Feb 23 01:13:27 1999 (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id HAA50036; Tue, 23 Feb 1999 07:12:52 GMT Subject: Thanks for the Welcome Appreciate the note of welcome, by the way it's Andersen (at leastthat's what's on his rods & E-mail). Can you send me more info on thebook you noted "Constructing Cane Rods, etc.", I'm trying to get copiesof Garrison/Carmichael (the local library is whining because I've had itout for 6 weeks), Wayne Cattanach's book & video (seems to be the NewBible & his comments in the archives are most helpful) and The LovelyReed by Howell for birthday presents from my family. I have a copy ofBest Of The Planing Form ordered, any other ideas for background info?.I'm new to this Net/E-mail stuff & just spent an hour in panic modebecause of this virus thing, must have been a nymph fisher.CheersCraig from gaff@carol.net Tue Feb 23 07:07:59 1999 Subject: happy99 hey guys,met happ99 yesterday from a list posting.think i cleared it thanks todoug. my ? it could one download this from the archives ?just a thought,wil from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue Feb 23 08:09:53 1999 Subject: happy99 Wil,I don't know about the Archives. I do know that I have duelsubscriptions to this list. One at work and one at home. The postingwith the Happy99 attachment that arrived at work did not survive theseveral virus checks that the companies network system puts all incomingE-Mail through. I got the base message (garbage) but not theattachment. Because of this I deleted the message and attachment on myhome system without opening them. I talked with my nephew last night and he had not heard of Happy99.He's an 18 year old computer genius. Still in High School but has agood business going designing web pages and reselling computerequipment. He has three virus checkers that he puts all incoming stuffthrough before he opens it. He says that this has kept him up andrunning so far. He is sending me information on how to do this. If Ican understand it and make it work I will pass it on to the list RegardsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net GA>hey guys,GA>met happ99 yesterday from a list posting.think i cleared it thanks toGA>doug. my ? it could one download this from the archives ?GA>just a thought,GA>wil from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Tue Feb 23 08:15:04 1999 0500 Subject: Planing and getting the angles right I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing. By that I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to get corrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on that short side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate the angle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helps but doesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip in each case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have tried a couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to be careful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planed in both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. and ready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too much downforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to the surface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still some bamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure as I get more practice things will get better, but any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Andy from dhaftel@att.com Tue Feb 23 08:47:07 1999 JAA02636; (8.8.8+Sun/EMS-1.2 sol2) (5.5.2232.9) rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Planing and getting the angles right Andy, If your roughed out strip has too acute an angle on one side might that notcarry all the way out to final planing? In other words... If you have toosharp an angle on one side, no matter how much you plane off the otherside(ths short side) of the strip, you're still going to have that sharp angle.You'll just make the strip thinner, maintaining the acute angle until youhit the form. I would suggest checking the angle of your roughing form. Ifthe angle is on, maybe the strip isn't being supported properly in the form(rocking back and forth). (?) emphasizing pressure on the side with the acute angle towards the enamelside. This will widen out that angle, eventually bringing you back up to60Ÿ. Then you could plane off the short side to an equilateral triangleagain. Just be careful that you have enough "meat" on the strips to pullthis off. Working slowly would probably be in order here. You don't want to gooverboard, unless you like making replacement strips . Just a serving suggestion... Dennis -----Original Message----- Subject: Planing and getting the angles right I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing. By that I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to get corrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on that short side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate the angle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helps but doesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip in each case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have tried a couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to be careful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planed in both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. and ready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too much downforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to the surface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still some bamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure as I get more practice things will get better, but any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Andy from anglport@con2.com Tue Feb 23 08:49:44 1999 Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Andy,Have you tried using a mirror at the end of the form? Jack Howellsuggeststhat to aid in levelling out the plane and says that alone is worth theprice of his book right there. I believe him. It might help you preventcanting as you proceed down the length of it. When I originally built, Ihad a serious groove diagonally down the far side of the sole from tippingthe plane away from me ( and leaning back on the body of it) as I moveddown the form. Might help.Also, you have to work BOTH sides of the cane to get it back tocorrect (to lengthen the one as you shorten the other). I'm probably insulting yourintelligence with that one but you didn't specifically say you wereworkingon both sides.Hope I helped,Art At 09:05 AM 2/23/99 -0500, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com wrote:I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing. By that I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to get corrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on that short side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate the angle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helps but doesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip in each case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have tried a couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to be careful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planed in both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. and ready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too much downforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to the surface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still some bamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure as I get more practice things will get better, but any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Andy from destinycon@mindspring.com Tue Feb 23 09:19:03 1999 Subject: NC Patient Friends,Yet another nickel silver question. In my quest for a supplier of NCI'vefound - CA 792 - (billed as leaded nickel silver). At this point I mustappoligise, someone sent me a ulr that gave alloy numbers and theircontents but I have some how lost it. How does this compare to 752, 762,or 735? Has anyone used it? Should I use it? As usual, any help will beappreciated. Regards,Gary H. from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Tue Feb 23 10:22:36 1999 0500 Subject: Planing and getting the angles right Thanks for the responses...Not to overanalyze this but here's my conclusion (for now) after thinking about everyone's input... When the angles were correct after roughing, as they seemed to be on some strips, I would in fact switch back and forth doing a couple passes on one side and then a couple on the other until finished. All was good on these strips. I think there was even one strip where one side was short and it still turned out fine by following George Maurer's book and planing the short side more than the other....then switching sides every couple passes after that. This was probably because the part in the form was a true 60 degrees. However, on several strips where one side was too short, I was planing the short side to even things out, but the sides never did. The long side stayed long. I think you guys are right in saying that if the corner in the form is not 60 degrees (either more or less) I would have problems...I think that was probably the case (though my gauge seemed to indicate it was close). Perhaps I was also not planing in a level manner, as others said. It actually seems that if the angle of the cane within the form is 60 degrees, then regardless whether the short or long side is being planed, the strip will eventually get planed to correct dimensions, as long as the plane is kept level. Drawing a picture of an acute angle in the form ( from jkallo@midwest.net Tue Feb 23 10:27:12 1999 Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Hey Andy,I had quite a bit of this problem on my first rod and into my second. Idiscovered that by adjusting the blade laterally I was able to correct theproblem. I too was consistently getting the same side shorter than theother; I would carefully get the strips perfectly even (by hold the planeat an angle), take a single pass on each side and wind up with one side .05longer than the other. I don't know if it is because I have a crownedblade, but once I've adjusted the blade so that it cuts evenly it oftenlooks a bit uneven--it was when I set it so it *looked* even (as comparedto the edge of the throat) that I had trouble. Hope I'm not being pedantic. Best,Joe At 09:05 AM 2/23/99 -0500, you wrote:I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing. By that I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to get corrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on that short side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate the angle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helps but doesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip in each case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have tried a couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to be careful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planed in both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. and ready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too much downforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to the surface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still some bamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure as I get more practice things will get better, but any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Andy Joseph S. KalloDpt. of PhilosophySouthern Illinois University at Carbondale from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Tue Feb 23 11:17:02 1999 via smap (4.1) 9:17:37 PST Subject: RE: Planing and getting the angles rightX-Incognito-SN: 580 Andy, What Dennis said about the rough angle is what I have found as well. Another factor is the nodes. If you havn't pressed or sanded the nodes, then they can cause uneven planing on your square strip in the roughing form. If the strip has a bend etc., this too can cause a bad angle to get started in the roughing form, because it won't sit flat in the form. Once this angle is out of whack then it progresses to your triangle planing. I try to catch any of these early and take the strip out of the form and eyeball plane it back in the general vicinity of a proper angle. If you sit the strip on a flat surface, enamel down and follow the apex, it's not difficult to see where the angle is wrong, and needs correction. You can also leave the strip in the form and cant the plane the direction you want to correct for if you have enough bamboo left in your strip. One more observation is to set your blade so it isn't removing too much bamboo. Even during the roughing process I've found that taking finer shavings with a shallow throat setting results in truer angles. It takes a while before you get a shaving of any length because your hitting the high spots along the strip with your plane. More coffee breaks are required to rest your arm, and it's a slower go, but it helps in the long run. I also believe that when you flatten the nodes entirely and begin the taper of your strips in the final planing form it corrects minor problems in your angle. Have others found that to be true? Or you can use a roughing beveler and get through this tempermental partof the planing process. The final planing is where the glory is. Pushing the plane across a bumpy, uneven chunk of split bamboo in the roughingform has all the finesse of an elephant on ice skates. Of course this is all my opinion, I could be wrong............be nice to me if I am. Chris McDowellmcdowellc@lanecc.edu from tom@cet-inc.com Tue Feb 23 11:19:05 1999 0000 Subject: Re: NC Gary,I use 792 nickel silver rod for ferrule plugs and winding checks. Worksfine Tom-----Original Message----- Subject: NC Patient Friends,Yet another nickel silver question. In my quest for a supplier of NC I'vefound - CA 792 - (billed as leaded nickel silver). At this point I mustappoligise, someone sent me a ulr that gave alloy numbers and theircontents but I have some how lost it. How does this compare to 752,762,or 735? Has anyone used it? Should I use it? As usual, any help will beappreciated. Regards,Gary H. from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Tue Feb 23 12:39:39 1999 0500 Subject: Planing and getting the angles right The additional points raised about nodes, plane blade angles, taking off only a little at a time even at first, using a mirror, etc. make sense. I will keep them in mind. Thanks again to everyone...Andy from dmanders@telusplanet.net Tue Feb 23 14:36:55 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Tue, 23 Feb 199913:36:34 - 0700 Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Andy, Checking your strips with the 60 degree point when preliminary planingwillshow most of the problems - as one fellow said - its critical that yourstrips are straight. If not they will kick and give you bad strips. Youshould be able to get within about 0.002 without difficulty. When you gotto correct the wandering apex, try the Model 60 plane - the blade sticksthrough the sole a tad bit better and will allow tapered shavings.Also grooving your plane sole and using the John Bokstrom training wheelsplane will make the whole bushiness of planing just a lot easier - seeRodmakers for the construction details on John's Plane.Still - you get some bad ones every now and then - had 2 butt sections onthe last 2 rods that just wouldn't stay straight. And thats after about 65rods. Drove me crazy. Don At 09:05 AM 2/23/99 -0500, andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com wrote:I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing. By that I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to get corrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on that short side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate the angle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helps but doesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip in each case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have tried a couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to be careful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planed in both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. and ready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too much downforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to the surface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still some bamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure as I get more practice things will get better, but any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Andy from rp43640@online-club.de Tue Feb 23 14:55:33 1999 Tue, 23 Feb 1999 21:53:03 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: DON"T OPEN HAPPY99 WORM http://sympantic.com/avcenter/venc/data/happy99.worm.html this is the correct one, only a small typing error: http://symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/happy99.worm.html Christian Douglas P. Easton schrieb: At 11:18 AM 2/22/99 -0500, Brian Sturrock wrote:Don't open Happy 99 exe .THIS ONE"S REALInfo on this"worm " virus on Symantic's site .Includes info on removingmanually Address for Sympantic info on this %$^&is http://sympantic.com/avcenter/venc/data/happy99.worm.html. Brian Just to make it easier:1.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE2.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL3.replace WINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.DLL withWINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.SKA You will need to closeyour net connection and re-start the computer to do this(ifWsock32.DLL is in use you can't replace it).4.delete the downloaded file, usually namedHAPPY99.EXE I just did all this and survived! Regards,-Doug from jfoster@gte.net Tue Feb 23 15:36:56 1999 Subject: archives mac-creator="4D4F5353" i think i've got chris, aj, and wayne's tapers all straight now AJ any commentary you'd like to make on your rods, or any corrections,you can get to me off line thanks jerry from LambersonW@missouri.edu Tue Feb 23 15:39:42 1999 (5.5.2232.9) Subject: Planing Forms There is a set of planing forms made by Lon Blauveldt currently on the VFSauction. from a9201227@pucp.edu.pe Tue Feb 23 16:35:41 1999 Tue, 23 Feb 1999 17:34:17 -0500 Subject: Please Help me dear friends:i need unsubscribe me of this list; so please send me the server e-mailand the comand to fill.Very very thank you for you.Bye from ccurrojr@mindspring.com Tue Feb 23 20:25:09 1999 Subject: Info on Southern Rodmakers Gathering List Members:Anyone interested in next fall's Southern Rodmakers Gathering shouldvisit our web site to see a tentative schedule of activities and some otherupdated info on the WHO, WHAT, WHEN, etc. page.There is also a new page with minutes from our first planning meetingthat took place last week. We need more planning meetings. Lots more.Can'thave enough.Here's the address: http://www.mindspring.com/~ccurrojr/srg99/srg99-1.htmlSRG99 GruntBoyCharlie C. from maxs@geocities.co.jp Tue Feb 23 22:16:40 1999 mail.geocities.co.jp(1.3G-GeocitiesJ-1.3) with SMTP id NAA28185; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 13:16:31+0900 (JST) Subject: RE: Planing and getting the angles right Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too muchdownforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to thesurface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still somebamboo above it)? Andy, It might be a little late to advise this but I used to have similar angleproblems. I remained some of your statement above which got my interest. While a strip still has its width at the biginning phase of planing, andwhen you plane one side of the strip with much power to press down, ithappens that the tip end portion of the strip tends to twist toward enamelside. This seldom happens at butt side since it is hard enough and sinkdeeply into the groove of form.Without knowing the tip side is being twisted by downforce, it happensto slice out much of the pith portion of the side.This will happen even at the mid portion of the strip, if you downforce awider strip too much without holding the strip in a correct angle tightly(Iassume that you already have correct 60 deg. by rough planing at least onone side). This would not happen when the strip surface is getting closerto the face of form because the strip will sit tight in the groove of 60deg..But after planing one side with sharper angle, 60 deg. groove willautomatically and naturally create a wider angle than 60 dig on the otherside. After knowing this, I try to make the width of the strip, especially at thetip portion, narrower before starting a long stroke on the plane. Forthose strips which originally had nearly square (not long square) shapeseldome had this problem. Another thought is to split strips into assquare as appropriate from the beginning. My thought about the force of planing is as follows; Keep the blade sharp always! I sharpen the blade twice for one strip tokeep next two objectives;Do not downforce the plane too much.Push the plane with appropriately light force forward. I hope this would help. Max Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafterhttp://members.tripod.com/~maxrod/index.html from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Wed Feb 24 03:08:19 1999 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id WAA15989; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 22:07:53 +1300 Subject: Re: happy99 There appears to be some advantage in being a computor primitive. Aftersomemajor panics , as I had the virus sent on two lists , rodmakers and oneother , I got through to a site with fixes which said it does not affectWindows 3.x, which I have !!! Apparently all you get is a garbage message for a number of systems ( egMac) and ancient langages like windows 3.2. The site is athttp://www.geocities/SiliconValley/Heights/3652/SKA.HTM if anyone isinterested . It used words I could understand !! Iank At 08:14 AM 23/02/99 EDT, dickfuhrman@rheemote.com wrote:Wil,I don't know about the Archives. I do know that I have duelsubscriptions to this list. One at work and one at home. The postingwith the Happy99 attachment that arrived at work did not survive theseveral virus checks that the companies network system puts allincomingE-Mail through. I got the base message (garbage) but not theattachment. He is sending me information on how to do this. If Ican understand it and make it work I will pass it on to the list RegardsDick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net GA>hey guys,GA>met happ99 yesterday from a list posting.think i cleared it thanks toGA>doug. my ? it could one download this from the archives ?GA>just a thought,GA>wil from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Wed Feb 24 08:25:56 1999 0500 Subject: Planing and getting the angles right Thanks again for all the input...books are great but leave a lot unsaid or assumed....Andy from robert.kope@cwix.com Wed Feb 24 09:10:54 1999 [208.159.98.152] (may be forged)) with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:10:19 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Joe & Andy, I don't have a lot of experience planing, but have had to deal with bothincorrect angles and skewed plane blades. Andy - If you have drawn a picture, you probably have a much betterunderstanding now. If you put the more acute angle in the form, the stripcan wobble; if you put the less acute angle in the form, only one side ofthe strip can rest against the form. My only advice is to try to catch theproblem early when your strip is still thick enough to correct the problem,and remember that you will need to cant the plane in the same directionwhenplaning both sides. On the narrower side of the strip you want to removemore from the pith edge of the strip, and on the wider side you want toremove more from the enamel edge. Also, check to make sure your stripsarenot twisted. My third rod was made from a culm with slightly spiral grainand all strips were twisted in the same direction. The twist had to beremoved before rough planing and again after heat treating. Joe - I had the problem of a skewed blade in spades. When I bought a newStanley 9 1/2 plane the sole was twisted. After flattening the sole, theblade bed was skewed with respect to the sole of the plane. If I put theblade in the plane with the edge parallel with the throat, the depth of cutwas 0.012" more on one side than the other. Try taking a shaving Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Hey Andy,I had quite a bit of this problem on my first rod and into my second. Idiscovered that by adjusting the blade laterally I was able to correct theproblem. I too was consistently getting the same side shorter than theother; I would carefully get the strips perfectly even (by hold the planeat an angle), take a single pass on each side and wind up with one side .05longer than the other. I don't know if it is because I have a crownedblade, but once I've adjusted the blade so that it cuts evenly it oftenlooks a bit uneven--it was when I set it so it *looked* even (as comparedto the edge of the throat) that I had trouble. Hope I'm not being pedantic. Best,Joe At 09:05 AM 2/23/99 -0500, you wrote:I seem to be having some trouble evening out angles during planing.Bythat I mean that I have a short side that does not seem to getcorrected even after multiple (and I mean multiple) passes on thatshort side. This has happened on several strips. If I exaggerate theangle of the plane to one side (not parallel to the form) it helpsbutdoesn't solve the problem. It is also the same side of each strip ineach case that ends up being the short side. The steel forms are Lon's and I believe them to be true, I have trieda couple different (and very sharp) Hock blades and have tried to becareful about positioning, I flattened my plane sole, and have planedin both directions. I now have a completed section that is o.k. andready for gluing, but really could be better. This is my first rod. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? Am I perhaps using too muchdownforce as I am planing (that might be o.k. when I am down to thesurface of the form itself but perhaps not when there is still somebamboo above it)? I am not striving for perfection, and I am sure asIget more practice things will get better, but any suggestions areappreciated. Thanks, Andy Joseph S. KalloDpt. of PhilosophySouthern Illinois University at Carbondale from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed Feb 24 11:27:49 1999 Wed, 24 Feb 1999 11:25:11 -0600 Subject: Re: Info on Southern Rodmakers Gathering CC48E34B130C3DACF5E6EEEB" --------------CC48E34B130C3DACF5E6EEEB Great Job on the page Charlie! At least you didn't take anypoetic license with the minutes of the meeting. Hope you'll postsome honest pictures someday. I know I took several of you withdecent sized trout, not just that one nice punkinseed.Also, anyone interested in doing a demo, or making asuggestion, just let me know...Harry PS -- Biondo and Crenshaw, it breaks my heart that you guysweren't able to attend. Charlie probably only caught about 100trout in two days. Someday we'll show you how to do the same!! Charles Curro wrote: List Members: Anyone interested in next fall's Southern Rodmakers Gatheringshould visit our web site to see a tentative schedule ofactivities and some other updated info on the WHO, WHAT, WHEN,etc. page. There is also a new page with minutes from our first planningmeeting that took place last week. We need more planningmeetings. Lots more. Can't have enough. Here's the address:http://www.mindspring.com/~ccurrojr/srg99/srg99- 1.html SRG99 GruntBoyCharlie C. --------------CC48E34B130C3DACF5E6EEEB didn't withdecent sized trout, not just that one nice punkinseed. makinga suggestion, just let me know...HarryPS -- Biondo and Crenshaw, it breaks my heart that you guys weren't Charles Curro wrote: List Members:Anyone interested in next fall's Southern Rodmakers Gathering shouldvisit our web site to see a tentative schedule of activities and some otherupdated info on the WHO, WHAT, WHEN, etc. page.There is also a new page with minutes from our first planning meetingthat took place last week. We need more planning meetings. Lots more.Can'thave enough.Here's the address: http://www.mindspring.com/~ccurrojr/srg99/srg99-1.htmlSRG99 GruntBoyCharlie C. --------------CC48E34B130C3DACF5E6EEEB-- from andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com Wed Feb 24 11:29:53 1999 0500 Subject: Re[2]: Planing and getting the angles right ..I am certainly planning to have it ready by then! It may not perform likea true Sir D special (that's the taper I am attempting) but I'm sure it will be usable...Andy ______________________________ Reply Separator_________________________________Subject: Re: Planing and getting the angles right Author: Grayson Davis at Tcpgate On Tue, 23 Feb 1999 11:12:47 -0500 andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com wrote: Thanks for the responses...Not to overanalyze this but here's my .. Thanks again...Andy Anytime. And one more thing, I find it easier to keep the plane flat when the plane's axis is parallel to the form; i.e., canting it to decrease the effective angle of the blade does not help me. Will you and the new rod be on the stream for the season opener? - Grayson ----------------------------------------Grayson DavisEmail: Grayson.Davis@valpo.eduValparaiso University from michael@wugate.wustl.edu Wed Feb 24 12:19:32 1999 Subject: Re: Info on Southern Rodmakers Gathering The Rodmaking Reverend seez: Also, anyone interested in doing a demo, or making asuggestion, just let me know... Harry PS -- Biondo and Crenshaw, it breaks my heart that you guys weren't ableto attend. Charlie probably only caught about 100 trout in two days. Someday we'll show you how to do the same!! Yeah, sure! They'll show us "how to do the same" as long as wepromise to do a demo!!! ;-) Great "Planning" meeting guys, sorry I missed it. See y'all in Arkansas,in October for sure...if not sooner, for the next "planning" meeting!!! Just a reminder to the list, the meeting space is limited for theSouthern Rodmakers Gathering, and is filling fast. If you're interestedin going the sooner you get your deposits to Harry, the better. Mike - SRG99 Bound - Biondo St. Louis, MO from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Wed Feb 24 12:23:06 1999 (5.5.2407.0) Subject: ammonium chloride If anybody is looking for ammonium chloride for urac glue, I found acompany inSeattle (All World Scientific 800-289-6753) that sells small amounts(128 grams) and will upsit to your door. from FISHWOOL@aol.com Wed Feb 24 13:36:42 1999 andrew_harsanyi@ibi.com,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: RE: Planing and getting the angles right Andy, planingform. I cock the plane on the long side to get it back to 60 deg. but I thenhave to plane the short side back to 60 deg. otherwise the long side goesbackto its original configuration. I always plane the long side first as it isresting with the broad angle of the short side in the form and will NOTrockwhereas if I plane the short side first the stick rocks in the direction theplane is canted and we get nowhere.Also if the angle of the strip is not near 90 deg. when put in the roughform you will often get an angle not 60 deg. I often plane the split strip onmy table to get the 90 deg on one side to put in the rough form.Hope this helps.Hank W. from m.boretti@agonet.it Wed Feb 24 13:37:36 1999 +0100 Subject: Info about English Rodmakers. Dear list friends,I seek the address and phone number of two English Rodmaker :1) Jeffery K.Wheeldon.2) Tom MoranCan anyone help me ?Good stripping,Marco Boretti( Italy ) from H2ODOC781@aol.com Wed Feb 24 14:14:57 1999 Subject: unsubscribe In a message dated 2/24/99 11:31:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com writes: from teekay35@interlynx.net Wed Feb 24 14:36:33 1999 Subject: Fw: Nuisance Virus Len is my local computer expert and it was he who inadvertently sent theHappy99 virus and subseqently advised on how to delete it. Detailedstepsthat even a computer illiterate like me could follow are listed below. Worked for me! ----------From: Len Dixon Cc: Stuart Chester ; Ron Watson Subject: Nuisance VirusDate: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 1:44 PM Hi Ted, I had been conversing with the Nortwest Territories Tourism officeregardingtravel plans I was making. I had received by mail some brochures and amapand in an exchange of E Mail with them I received a note with no messagebutan attachment named HAPPY99. Thinking it was a promotionall item ofsomekind I double-clicked it and a fireworks display ensued on my screen.What Ididn't know was that it made changes to my system that caused theattachmentto be automatically attached to E Mail I subsequently sent. Hence, youandpeople you have E Mailed are now infected. It is easy to remove from yoursystem and does not appear to cause any permanent damage.To remove it: Your E Mail software and Internet browser must not be running (InternetExplorer, Netscape etc). If you are not comfortable with WINDOWS EXPLORER and manipulatingfilesdothe following: Print this out ! 1.On the WINDOWS DESKTOP, point to My Computer and press the RIGHTmousebutton. 2. Point to Find and click the LEFT mouse button. 3. In the box that appears type HAPPY99.EXE in the NAMED field. 4. In the LOOK IN field, Point to the small inverted black triangle andclick the LEFT mouse button. 5. Point to the C: icon and click the left mouse button. 6. Point to FIND NOW and click the left mouse button. 7. In a few seconds, HAPPY99 or HAPPY99.EXE should appear in the filelistat the bottom of the box. 8. Point to the name of the file that has appeared and click the RIGHTmousebutton. 9. Point to DELETE and click the LEFT mouse button. Repeat these steps for files named SKA.EXE SKA.DLL WSOCK32.DLL (usedinstep 3). Repeat these steps for a file named WSOCK32.SKA with the followingdifference, at step 9, 1. Point to RENAME and click the LEFT mouse button. 2. Press the LEFT ARROW key three times. 3. Press the DELETE key three times. 4. Type DLL. 5. Point to the X in the top right hand corner of the box and click theLEFTmouse button. 6. If you get an error regarding changing a file extension click yes orOK. Re Boot your computer. If you are a comfortable WINDOWS EXPLORER user, the above can becondensed 1. Find and delete HAPPY99.exe. 2. In C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM delete SKA.EXE, SKA.DLL and WSOCK32.DLLthenrenameWSOCK32.SKA to WSOCK32.DLL. (Remember that DLL files are normallyhiddenandyou will have to unhide them in VIEW, OPTIONS if you can't see them) I think the fact that whoever created this annoyance took the time tomake acopy of the original WSOCK32.DLL file hints that it was not meant tocauseany permanent damage. However, when you receive an attachment fromsomeoneyou know and trust (and they don't even know they have sent it), how areyouto protect yourself from something that could potentially reek havoc onyourcomputer ? Everyone should spend some time researching the many websitesthat reference viruses in order to gain some knowledge of the subject. Of course, I am going to come and fix your computer for you. Len from HeplerSail@aol.com Wed Feb 24 15:02:31 1999 Subject: leonard question? I ran across a Leonard 755 duracane sn#5184 7 1/2ft 3pc 5wt? withalmostclear lime green wraps and a mahogany reel seat. does anyone knowanythingabout this rod. I can't find it in the old Leonard catalogs. thanksScott from SalarFly@aol.com Wed Feb 24 15:28:55 1999 Subject: Quads I just finished sanding my first quad blank. I haven't castedit yet because I don't have a ferrule for it. What a strangeappearing configuration! Planing was a bit of a chore becausethe outside edges were at such an acute angle, fibers ofbamboo kept wanting to peel off. I you ever do a quadresist the temptation to strip off loose fibers from the edges.They tend to run deeper into the strip, and you end up ruiningthe edge. My first impression of a quad, without casting it yet, is that it seems to be stiffer and a bit heavier than the equivalent taperin a hex. Darryl from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Wed Feb 24 16:07:36 1999 Subject: Redditch boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0059_01BE6041.C9C193C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BE6041.C9C193C0 To those subscribers in the UK, does anyone know the dates for Redditch =this year. I haven't seen anything yet.ThanksTim. ------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BE6041.C9C193C0 To those subscribers in the UK,does = yet.ThanksTim. ------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BE6041.C9C193C0-- from FISHWOOL@aol.com Wed Feb 24 16:17:44 1999 Subject: Re: Re: Snake guides Ralph,Sorry to hear about your pace maker problem. from what I hear on thislistit has been solved by re-programming it-I certainly hope so-I'd like tofishwith you sometime when my wife and I are at our place in Silver Gate , Mt.this summer.Best regards,Hank Woolman. from jourdoktorn@pilot.stjarntv.se Wed Feb 24 16:30:46 1999 [195.163.9.35](may be forged)) with ESMTP id AAA3EE5; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 23:22:14 +0100 Subject: Re: leonard question? Hi Scott, yes from 1976 there was a Duracane model 755. This rod was one in atotallynew serie of Duracane rods from that year. They all had a progressivetaper.There were a total of 18 models. They featured a specially designed low-bridgealuminium-oxide stripping guide and a mahogny reel seat. Best,Jan Nystrom HeplerSail@aol.com wrote: I ran across a Leonard 755 duracane sn#5184 7 1/2ft 3pc 5wt? withalmostclear lime green wraps and a mahogany reel seat. does anyone knowanythingabout this rod. I can't find it in the old Leonard catalogs.thanksScott from HARMS1@prodigy.net Wed Feb 24 18:16:25 1999 ext.prodigy.net TAA120336;Wed, 24 Feb 1999 19:14:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond II =_NextPart_000_01BE6029.C7E43520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6029.C7E43520 To date, I've glued three or four dozen rods with Titebond II. No failureswhatever, but I too, have had trouble from time to time with glue jointsswelling and opening somewhat upon heat- straightening. I've found,though,that if I just run the section quickly through the binder with absolutelyminimum tension, I can then heat straighten to my heart's content. Theglue does not actually "fail" with the application of heat, instead, itjust sort of wants to "foam." The binding thread prevents this fromhappening, and all remains sound. Even so, I sure would like to hear of a more heat-resistant formula,because the glue is truly wonderful stuff. Some of the rods I builttwenty-five years ago are still in regular use, and show no signswhateverof weakening -- and that glue was the original old Borden's "YellowCarpenters' Glue, " not even said to be water resistant. Cheers, Bill----------From: Jon Lintvet Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond IIDate: Sunday, February 21, 1999 8:01 AM It is my understanding the TBII is modestly water resistant. I use TBIIandhave had great results with nodeless sections. Short working time andstrong as anything I have seen. I hesitate to say this, but I even haveanentire rod glued up with it....talk about short working time! Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Grhghlndr@aol.com owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu; ragnarig@integrityol.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 7:00 PMSubject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues onarod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and consandworking times.Bret------=_NextPart_000_01BE6029.C7E43520 To date, I've glued three or= have had trouble from time to time with glue joints swelling and opening= just run the section quickly through the binder with absolutely minimum = glue does not actually "fail" with the application of heat, = thread prevents this from happening, and all remains sound. = heat-resistant formula, because the glue is truly wonderful stuff. = glue was the original old Borden's "Yellow Carpenters' Glue, " = Grhghlndr@aol.com = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6029.C7E43520-- from cattanac@wmis.net Wed Feb 24 20:09:42 1999 t2.wmis.net (8.8.5/SCO5) withSMTP id CAA21815 for ; Thu, 25 Feb 199902:09:35 GMT Subject: Twinkle boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE5FD5.CB4F57C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE5FD5.CB4F57C0 If you ever wondered what you can do on a cross contry trip to a = Twinkle Trout Twinkle twinkle little troutWhy don't you come on outTucked beneath the brush pile deepWhy don't you come take a leapOut upon my leader fineSets a fly that cost a buck "o" nineAs I cast and float it byYou won't even budge from your lie Twinkle twinkle little troutWhat will it take to move you outCast as I may with all my mightI just can't seem to get the fly to land rightThe line speed is high, the loop is tightYou don't suppose it's the graphite Twinkle twinkle little troutyou're a smart one without a doubtFish as I may, fish as I mightThis truly the end of the ol' graphiteWhen I come next to visit youIt will be nothing less than the best of bamboo Twinkle twinkle little troutA word to the wise - do look out ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE5FD5.CB4F57C0 Twinkle Trout = = = lie = graphite = It = nothing less than the best of bamboo out ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE5FD5.CB4F57C0-- from jczimny@dol.net Wed Feb 24 20:48:10 1999 0500 "jlintvet@clarityconnect.com" ,"rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: Titebond or Titebond II Bill et al,The answer is out there. You want an acid catalyzed PVA glue. Much betterpolymerization. Nojoint creep. More heat resistance. Custom-Pak sells it.John Z -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond II To date, I've glued three or four dozen rods with Titebond II. No failureswhatever, but I too, have had trouble from time to time with glue jointsswelling and opening somewhat upon heat- straightening. I've found,though,that if I just run the section quickly through the binder with absolutelyminimum tension, I can then heat straighten to my heart's content. Theglue does not actually "fail" with the application of heat, instead, itjust sort of wants to "foam." The binding thread prevents this fromhappening, and all remains sound. Even so, I sure would like to hear of a more heat-resistant formula,because the glue is truly wonderful stuff. Some of the rods I builttwenty-five years ago are still in regular use, and show no signswhateverof weakening -- and that glue was the original old Borden's "YellowCarpenters' Glue, " not even said to be water resistant. Cheers, Bill----------From: Jon Lintvet Subject: Re: Titebond or Titebond IIDate: Sunday, February 21, 1999 8:01 AM It is my understanding the TBII is modestly water resistant. I use TBIIandhave had great results with nodeless sections. Short working time andstrong as anything I have seen. I hesitate to say this, but I even haveanentire rod glued up with it....talk about short working time! Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Grhghlndr@aol.com owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; mcanultj@svm.vetmed.wisc.edu; ragnarig@integrityol.com Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 7:00 PMSubject: Titebond or Titebond II List,I am getting ready to try either one or the other of these two glues onarod. Can someone with experience using these glues e-mail me off listwiththeir opinions / experiences with these two glues? IE: pros and consandworking times.Bret > from hiltonl@benzie.com Wed Feb 24 23:05:11 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id A89A680134; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 23:59:06 EST Subject: (no subject) I may have sent this to the wrong .Rodmaker email address so I'm tryingit again (new to computers, too) I am contemplating a Morgan hand mill and am interested in some feedbackconcerning the normal 60-degree angle and verses the optional 611/2-degree angle. How 'bout some pros and cons here....I'm new tobamboo. Thanks, Larry from hiltonl@benzie.com Wed Feb 24 23:19:50 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id A53E6A012C; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 23:44:46 EST Subject: Hex rod strip angles I am contemplating a Morgan hand mill and am interested in some feedbackconcerning the normal 60-degree angle verses the optional 61 1/2 degreeangle. How 'bout some pros and cons here.....I'm new to bamboo.Thanks, Larry from ccurrojr@mindspring.com Thu Feb 25 00:36:02 1999 Subject: Re: Twinkle Could this have anything to do with why you and Miles"Lostguy" Tiernan have been known to drive 100+ miles out ofthe way?? I can see it now . . . you and Tiernan waxing poetic to eachother and ending up in Kansas City when you were supposed toturn south 100 miles back to get to north Arkansas. My head hurts with such a vision. Good nite, Wayne. cc from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 25 00:39:44 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Thu, 25 Feb 1999 06:39:11 +0000 Subject: Re: leonard question? from the 1976 Leonard catalog: Model 755Length 7-1/2'Weight 3-1/2 oz.Line 5 wt.Price $220 And from the catalog copy:"Rods carrying 4 and 5 weight lines have all-cork reel seats with blackoxidized nickel-silver slide band and butt cap.""Specially designed low-bridge aluminum-oxide stripping guides enhancetheshooting characteristics of these rods and are of a handsome brown tonetomatch perfectly with the rest of the rod.""All rods include two tips, ferrule plug, cloth bag, and aluminum rod casewith brass fittings." All rods shown in the color picture appear to have brown wraps tipped invery dark brown. It would appear that either your rod was from a different year or wasordered with different fittings or was later modified. Hope this info helps... George Bourke-----Original Message----- Subject: leonard question? I ran across a Leonard 755 duracane sn#5184 7 1/2ft 3pc 5wt? withalmostclear lime green wraps and a mahogany reel seat. does anyone knowanythingabout this rod. I can't find it in the old Leonard catalogs.thanksScott from hhholland@erols.com Thu Feb 25 07:34:25 1999 Subject: Re: Quads Hi Darryl,Please keep us updated on your impressions after you are able to cast thequad. It will be interesting to know how you think it compares to anequivalent (or at least similar) hex rod.Hank H -----Original Message----- Subject: Quads I just finished sanding my first quad blank. I haven't castedit yet because I don't have a ferrule for it. >My first impression of a quad, without casting it yet, is that itseems to be stiffer and a bit heavier than the equivalent taperin a hex. Darryl from tonkin@xtn.net Thu Feb 25 11:10:30 1999 Thu, 25 Feb 1999 12:14:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Twinkle Bravo, Wayne, Bravo! Wayne Cattanach wrote: If you ever wondered what you can do on a cross contry trip to aflyfishing show - try poetry. Twinkle Trout Twinkle twinkle little troutWhy don't you come on outTucked beneath the brush pile deepWhy don't you come take a leapOut upon my leader fineSets a fly that cost a buck "o" nineAs I cast and float it byYou won't even budge from your lie Twinkle twinkle little troutWhat will it take to move you outCast as I may with all my mightI just can't seem to get the fly to land rightThe line speed is high, the loop is tightYou don't suppose it's the graphite Twinkle twinkle little troutyou're a smart one without a doubtFish as I may, fish as I mightThis truly the end of the ol' graphiteWhen I come next to visit youIt will be nothing less than the best of bamboo Twinkle twinkle little troutA word to the wise - do look out from rodgers@jessie.nor.nuwc.navy.mil Thu Feb 25 11:55:03 1999 Subject: "The Bamboo Fly Rod" magazine Does anyone know if "The Bamboo Fly Rod" magazine is still in business. I January. I haven't received the magazines. To see is they had received myorder, I sent two emails which were not answered, and when I call all Igetis the answering machine. thanks,Dan from tjackso1@home.net Thu Feb 25 12:10:38 1999 (InterMail v4.00.03.11 201-229-104-111) with ESMTP 0800 Subject: Bamboo Fly Rod magazine Dan asked about Bamboo Fly Rod magazine still being in business. Isubscribed two days ago and got an immediate answer to both a question Iposed via e- mail from their site and another to my subscription form from Mark Metcalf. Here is the address: Mark Metcalf Hope this helps.Terry from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Thu Feb 25 13:05:40 1999 1999 11:06:43 PST Subject: Re: "The Bamboo Fly Rod" magazine Coincidentally, my back issues that were ordered in late Januaryarrived just today. I assume this means that they are still alive andkicking. Jeff ---Dan Rodgers wrote: Does anyone know if "The Bamboo Fly Rod" magazine is still inbusiness. Isent for the two first issues of the magazine back in the early partofJanuary. I haven't received the magazines. To see is they hadreceived myorder, I sent two emails which were not answered, and when I callall I getis the answering machine. thanks,Dan _________________________________________________________DO YOU YAHOO!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from SalarFly@aol.com Thu Feb 25 14:15:11 1999 Subject: Re: Bamboo Fly Rod magazine Yes, they are still in business, but Mark is atthe Denver fly fishing show , and also is attending the Salt Lake City fly fishing show (next week?). If you are in the area, drop by the booth and say hello. Darryl from paullyon@epix.net Thu Feb 25 15:30:20 1999 ESMTP id QAA26365 Subject: Info on Edwards Quadrate mac-creator="4D4F5353" Hello again: Can anyone out there tell me the value of an Edwards Quadrate "SpecialLuxor" #200 Spinner, and give me some historical information about whenit was made, etc.? from what I've been able to gather, it was probablymade by Bill Edwards some time shortly after World War II. Anybody knowanything about it? Also, got my hands on a bear of a 9-foot cane casting rod. Only thingwritten on it is "President." It's got a bakelite reel seat on it andsnake guides, if that helps. Anyone know anything about it? What it'sworth? If anyone knows of a good resources on the Net for valuing rods likethese, please refer me. Appreciate your help. Paul LyonClarks Summit, PA from teekay35@interlynx.net Thu Feb 25 18:19:57 1999 Subject: Third Grand River Gathering, May 29, 30, 1999 =_NextPart_000_01BE60F2.7E1E0000" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE60F2.7E1E0000 The Third "Grand" Gathering is scheduled for Sat. May 29, and Sun. May 30,1999(Memorial Day Weekend). We are using the same location as previousyears, Belwood Lake Conservation Area, on the upper Grand River, near thetown of Fergus. Paperclipped is a general information sheet about how toregister, accommodation, etc.. Early interest suggests that this will beanother well attended Gathering. Register early, as total accommodationis limited. If you are planning to attend and have suggestions for the program, orsomething of help to other rod makers. Please let us know. Your planning team is Ted Knott, George Carcao, Roy DeGiusti, Ray Blades,James Bond, Mark Babiy, and Carl O'Connor. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE60F2.7E1E0000 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 ------=_NextPart_000_01BE60F2.7E1E0000-- from SalarFly@aol.com Thu Feb 25 20:19:50 1999 Subject: Re: Hex rod strip angles I am contemplating a Morgan hand mill and am interested in somefeedbackconcerning the normal 60-degree angle verses the optional 61 1/2degreeangle. How 'bout some pros and cons here.....I'm new to bamboo. I had the same question, and I just got my Morgan Hand Mill. Tomwas kind enough to send me both so I could try them out. I like the61 1/2. The advantage is it tends to eliminate gaps between the strips. Disadvantage is some say the increased pressure between the edgeswill force out the glue, and the glue line won't be as strong. I find it does help eliminate gaps, and I haven't noticed any weaknessin the glue line yet. I'm so sold on this concept I use the 73 1/2 degree cutter for 5 striprods, and 92 degree cutter for quads. Darryl from KDLoup@aol.com Thu Feb 25 23:33:26 1999 rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: "The Bamboo Fly Rod" magazine List,I hope they are still in business. Last month, I was surprised by a $25renewal charge to my credit card. Kurt Loup from Finanplanr@aol.com Fri Feb 26 00:43:51 1999 Subject: UPDATE...*The Fine Bamboo Fly Rod*-2nd Ed. Folks, I hope this update may be useful to you. I have just been informed by myprinter that the 2nd Ed of *The Fine Bamboo Fly Rod* has already gone topress, and they are *swearing* to me that I should have it within amonth'stime. That's great news, and I hope they keep their promise to me. I hopethis will please those of you who have already sent in their pre- publicationorders! Please be aware that the retail price has now been set at $54.95 plus$3.20priority shipping (within USA) plus sales tax for Colorado residents. Thecost for foreign shipments will depend on destination and desired mode ofshipment. Please contact us for cost before sending orders. I regret thatinscriptions or autographed copies will not be available after publication. In the meantime, until the book is available, I will continue to offercopiesthat are ordered on a pre-publication basis, with payment, at thepreviouslyannounced pre-publication price of $49.95. I will also pay the postage (onUSA orders only) and autograph your copy, if desired. This is avalaible onpaid, pre-publication orders only. Sincerely,Stuart KirkfieldThe Cork & Cane PressE-Mail: CorknCane@aol.com from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Feb 26 10:37:36 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Fri, 26 Feb 199909:37:17 - 0700 Subject: How long should it last Guys/Gals, I've got a couple of rods - one I own that has about 4500 hours on it andanother owned by the head of my Destructive Testing Department that hasabout 3500 hours on it - both have suffered some break down in thefinish. My rod finish last about 3000>3500 hours and started to crack - similarlymy Dept. head had the same problem. I'm using Varathane. Any ideas how long finished should last - Garrison's book mentionssomewhere about Garry refinishing rods during the depression. Guessfinished broke down there too. thanks, Don from chris@artistree.com Fri Feb 26 13:03:58 1999 Subject: Re: How long should it last mac-creator="4D4F5353" Don,Just a thought. I am of the school that a Poly that is formulated foroutdooruse (w/ UV inhibitors) probably stands the best chance of holding up forthelongest time. When I read of the cracking in the Varathane finish Iimmediately thought of what happens to interior window sills & floorscoatedin poly. After a few years of exposure to sunlight and with woodexpansion/contraction the poly will sometimes crack. Especially if it isbanged on at all. Best Regards,Chris Wohlford Guys/Gals, I've got a couple of rods - one I own that has about 4500 hours on it andanother owned by the head of my Destructive Testing Department thathasabout 3500 hours on it - both have suffered some break down in thefinish.My rod finish last about 3000>3500 hours and started to crack - similarlymy Dept. head had the same problem. I'm using Varathane. Any ideas how long finished should last - Garrison's book mentionssomewhere about Garry refinishing rods during the depression. Guessfinished broke down there too. thanks, Don from jfoster@gte.net Fri Feb 26 14:13:28 1999 Subject: Re: Third Grand River Gathering, May 29, 30, 1999 mac-creator="4D4F5353" I you guys have web pages for all (each of your gatherings) ,like theRev., i'll biuld a new page for you.. also i get a lot requests forlessons..same thing for that.. regards jerry from teekay35@interlynx.net Fri Feb 26 16:08:34 1999 Subject: Slow day? I've seen only 4 messages today so far. Is it just a slow day, or am Imissing some messages? from scott@church.com Fri Feb 26 18:57:15 1999 [207.103.200.12] (may be forged)) SMTP (MicrosoftExchange Internet Mail Service Version 5.5.2448.0) 0500 Subject: final planing forms Not only have I gotten completely overwhelmed by splitting and rough planing of bamboo; but now I am making my own final planing forms. Myform is 6 ft. long and I intend on a taper of .005"per 5" on the form. The guide I am using is the series of articles in "The Bamboo Fly Rod"magazine that the depth at the tip end of the tip side be .025" and the depth at the butt end of the tip side be .095". Am I right in assuming that the forms have to be screwed completely together to get these depth measurements? Another burningquestion; are the dimensions given on rod tapers the depth of the 60 degree triangle, or the width? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Scott from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 26 18:57:25 1999 Subject: Re: Slow day? No, Ted,It's a slow day on the list. I've only received seventoday. It has been a little slow lately. Every one must bebusy doing there taxes, Or like me, trying to catch up onmy orders. Dave LeClair from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 26 19:12:30 1999 Subject: Re: final planing forms Scott,Yes, The measurement is with the forms screwed together. The taper measurement is the depth of the 60*V of the form. although, once you have planed the strip toit's final dimension, the width and depth of the strip will bethe same. At least it should be. Dave LeClair from anglport@con2.com Fri Feb 26 19:56:25 1999 Subject: Re: final planing forms Scott and Dave,I think you may be speaking parallel to each other. The depthdimension ofthe strip is the triangle's altitude and the width is the the length of aside. They are NOT the same. The altitude is actually .866 times the side'slength. When I first began, I wasted a great deal of time finding the"face" dimensions relative to the altitude ( every 5 damn inches!) and thendiscovered it's a useless factoid.If your planing and form are accurate, all three altiudes (depthmeasurements) will be the same, but NONE of them will match a face-width.Art At 08:10 PM 2/26/99 EST, LECLAIR123@aol.com wrote:Scott,Yes, The measurement is with the forms screwed together. The taper measurement is the depth of the 60*V of the form. although, once you have planed the strip toit's final dimension, the width and depth of the strip will bethe same. At least it should be. Dave LeClair from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 26 20:45:20 1999 Subject: Re: final planing forms Art and Hank,Now that I think about it, I know what you mean. Iwasn't thinking right. What I was thinking about, was thatif you measure from flat to point, all three should be the sameafter planing to final dimension. The Width, would be different than the depth. Sorry. This is good, you caughtme sleeping again. Keep up the Good work. Dave L. from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Fri Feb 26 20:45:31 1999 out2.ibm.net(8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id CAA47240 for ;Sat, 27 Feb 199902:45:27 GMT Subject: Cane To Canada 1. I'm looking into buying cane from Demarest (minimum order of 3sticks), does anybody have recommendations on which size to get (1 3/4 -2" or 2 - 2 1/2"). I'm new at this & basically plan to end up withtoothpicks, meat schewers etc. while I try various things with the cane. 2. Anybody have experience using UPS do do this, I have heard horrorstories about customs costs. How about FedEx, surface mail etc., . ThanksCraig from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Fri Feb 26 21:19:26 1999 sims.3.5.1998.03.08.20.27)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Fri, Subject: REC I ordered a real seat, ferrules, tip top and a stripping guide from REC onemonth ago. I called them today to inquire about the status of my order.Theymentioned it will likely ship next Monday or Tuesday. Is this the normwithREC or have I hit them at an unusually busy time? If such a delay is thenorm, I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgive andforget. Thanks, Richard from jpsnbs@erols.com Fri Feb 26 21:27:16 1999 Subject: Re: REC Richard, I too have had long delays with items from REC. However, theircomponents are quite nice and reasonably priced. I believe they must haveaskeleton staff. I've given orders to the President over the phone.Frequent inquiries tends to speed up delivery.Joe Swam -----Original Message----- Subject: REC I ordered a real seat, ferrules, tip top and a stripping guide from REC onemonth ago. I called them today to inquire about the status of my order.Theymentioned it will likely ship next Monday or Tuesday. Is this the normwithREC or have I hit them at an unusually busy time? If such a delay is thenorm, I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgive andforget. Thanks, Richard from LECLAIR123@aol.com Fri Feb 26 21:33:24 1999 Subject: Re: REC Richard,My experience with REC has been very good. Youmay have hit at a very busy time. They usually ship withina couple of days. Dave L. from bills@nwlink.com Fri Feb 26 22:23:34 1999 Subject: Re: REC I have always found them to ship orders in a reasonable timeframe.Bill----- Original Message----- Subject: REC I ordered a real seat, ferrules, tip top and a stripping guide from REC onemonth ago. I called them today to inquire about the status of my order.Theymentioned it will likely ship next Monday or Tuesday. Is this the normwithREC or have I hit them at an unusually busy time? If such a delay is thenorm, I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgive andforget. Thanks, Richard from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Feb 26 22:41:38 1999 don") by eeyore.eon.netwith SMTP id ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 21:41:15 -0700 Subject: Re: How long should it last At 11:07 AM 2/26/99 +0000, Chris Wohlford wrote:Don,Just a thought. I am of the school that a Poly that is formulated foroutdooruse (w/ UV inhibitors) probably stands the best chance of holding up forthelongest time. When I read of the cracking in the Varathane finish Iimmediately thought of what happens to interior window sills & floorscoatedin poly. After a few years of exposure to sunlight and with woodexpansion/contraction the poly will sometimes crack. Especially if it isbanged on at all. Best Regards,Chris Wohlford Chris, I purposely select the finish that doesn't have UV inhibitors in them. Youmust stir when using to keep the inhibitor in suspension. As I'm a dipper,stirring is out of the question. + I'm not sure that the amount that myrods are in the sun as compared to a window sill is all that much.Similarly, I use gloss finishes that don't have stuff floating in thefinish to give it a semi or matt finish. Gloss just need a touch of autopaint abrasive to give it a great matt finish. Don Guys/Gals, I've got a couple of rods - one I own that has about 4500 hours on it andanother owned by the head of my Destructive Testing Department thathasabout 3500 hours on it - both have suffered some break down in thefinish.My rod finish last about 3000>3500 hours and started to crack - similarlymy Dept. head had the same problem. I'm using Varathane. Any ideas how long finished should last - Garrison's book mentionssomewhere about Garry refinishing rods during the depression. Guessfinished broke down there too. thanks, Don from dmanders@telusplanet.net Fri Feb 26 22:44:26 1999 don") by eeyore.eon.netwith SMTP id ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 21:43:51 -0700 Subject: Re: Cane To Canada At 07:43 PM 2/26/99 -0700, Craig Naldrett wrote:1. I'm looking into buying cane from Demarest (minimum order of 3sticks), does anybody have recommendations on which size to get (1 3/4-2" or 2 - 2 1/2"). I'm new at this & basically plan to end up withtoothpicks, meat schewers etc. while I try various things with the cane. 2. Anybody have experience using UPS do do this, I have heard horrorstories about customs costs. How about FedEx, surface mail etc., . ThanksCraig Craig, Get Demerast to cut it to 6' lengths and ship it air to Calgary and clearit through customs yourself.Get 2 or 2 1/2" stuff. Don from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Sat Feb 27 01:29:28 1999 (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id HAA155864; Sat, 27 Feb 1999 07:29:23 GMT Subject: Reply to Cane In Canada Thanks for input, do you have anymore detail on supplier in Guelph, isit Bob Perry (I got a note from him that he would soon have caneavailable).Re source in Toronto for Royer cane, do you have anymore detail for acontact (or personal knowledge of quality of Royer cane). I sent a noteto Royer at address in Rodmaker Suppliers pages but have gotten noresponse yet.ThanksCraig from chris@artistree.com Sat Feb 27 02:36:37 1999 Subject: Re: How long should it last mac-creator="4D4F5353" Don,I'm unsure what product you are referring to that needs to be stirred. ButIMHO Ihave not found that to be the case with the better (and unfortunatelyexpensive)spar polys available through marine supply houses. I am also in the habitofpulling out the tube (of Poly) from my dip system and turning it end to enda fewhours before I use it. I generally do this to ensure the little bit of thinnerIhave floated on top is thoroughly distributed. But who knows...maybe itdoes morethan that. Just some ideas and I hope I'm not "stirring" up any trouble :) Best Regards,Chris Wohlford Chris, I purposely select the finish that doesn't have UV inhibitors in them. Youmust stir when using to keep the inhibitor in suspension. As I'm a dipper,stirring is out of the question. + I'm not sure that the amount that myrods are in the sun as compared to a window sill is all that much.Similarly, I use gloss finishes that don't have stuff floating in thefinish to give it a semi or matt finish. Gloss just need a touch of autopaint abrasive to give it a great matt finish. Don from paullyon@epix.net Sat Feb 27 07:34:02 1999 ESMTP id IAA19228 Subject: Planing forms mac-creator="4D4F5353" One and all: Can I make a planing form out of hard wood, say rock maple, as analternative to buying a metal one? Barring that, is there somewhere Ican buy a metal planing form at a reasonable price? Appreciate yourhelp. Paul LyonClarks Summit, Pa. from HARMS1@prodigy.net Sat Feb 27 08:15:14 1999 Sat, 27 Feb 1999 09:15:07 -0500 "Rodmakers" Subject: Re: REC =_NextPart_000_01BE6231.7DEA9E00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6231.7DEA9E00 I think it is unusual for REC. I order stuff from them right along, andwhile they are never what I would call "speedy," my orders arrive withinacouple weeks.I've been told that most of their business is done in larger volume, so theodd, small order gets somewhat lower priority in the shipping room. Cheers, Bill ----------From: Bill Strelke Subject: Re: RECDate: Friday, February 26, 1999 8:18 PM I have always found them to ship orders in a reasonable timeframe.Bill----- Original Message-----From: Richard Nantel Date: Friday, February 26, 1999 7:21 PMSubject: REC I ordered a real seat, ferrules, tip top and a stripping guide from REConemonth ago. I called them today to inquire about the status of my order.Theymentioned it will likely ship next Monday or Tuesday. Is this the normwithREC or have I hit them at an unusually busy time? If such a delay is thenorm, I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgiveandforget. Thanks, Richard ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6231.7DEA9E00 I think it is unusual for = couple weeks.I've been told that most of their business is done in =larger volume, so the odd, small order gets somewhat lower priority in = I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgive = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6231.7DEA9E00-- from HARMS1@prodigy.net Sat Feb 27 08:26:57 1999 Sat, 27 Feb 1999 09:26:50 -0500 Subject: Re: How long should it last =_NextPart_000_01BE6233.20FF29C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6233.20FF29C0 Apparently, the reason exterior poly (or "spar") works better for us is notso much because it produces a tougher coating, but because it contains agreater percentage of oil in the medium (as well as the UV inhibitors). The oil component allows greater flexibility in the cured coat to endureall the expansion/contraction and flexing that a rod experiences. As tosheer protection against foul weather, abrasion, and occasional dunkings,there probably isn't a significant difference between interior and exteriorpoly. A good waxing is what you want, in either case.Cheers, Bill ----------From: Don & Sandy Andersen Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: How long should it lastDate: Friday, February 26, 1999 8:42 PM At 11:07 AM 2/26/99 +0000, Chris Wohlford wrote:Don,Just a thought. I am of the school that a Poly that is formulated foroutdooruse (w/ UV inhibitors) probably stands the best chance of holding up forthelongest time. When I read of the cracking in the Varathane finish Iimmediately thought of what happens to interior window sills & floorscoatedin poly. After a few years of exposure to sunlight and with woodexpansion/contraction the poly will sometimes crack. Especially if it isbanged on at all. Best Regards,Chris Wohlford Chris, I purposely select the finish that doesn't have UV inhibitors in them.Youmust stir when using to keep the inhibitor in suspension. As I'm adipper,stirring is out of the question. + I'm not sure that the amount that myrods are in the sun as compared to a window sill is all that much.Similarly, I use gloss finishes that don't have stuff floating in thefinish to give it a semi or matt finish. Gloss just need a touch of autopaint abrasive to give it a great matt finish. Don Guys/Gals, I've got a couple of rods - one I own that has about 4500 hours on itandanother owned by the head of my Destructive Testing Department thathasabout 3500 hours on it - both have suffered some break down in thefinish.My rod finish last about 3000>3500 hours and started to crack - similarlymy Dept. head had the same problem. I'm using Varathane. Any ideas how long finished should last - Garrison's book mentionssomewhere about Garry refinishing rods during the depression. Guessfinished broke down there too. thanks, Don ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6233.20FF29C0 Apparently, the reason =exterior poly (or "spar") works better for us is not so much =because it produces a tougher coating, but because it contains a greater =percentage of oil in the medium (as well as the UV inhibitors). = coat to endure all the expansion/contraction and flexing that a rod = abrasion, and occasional dunkings, there probably isn't a significant = = =thought. I am of the school that a Poly that is formulated for = to give it a semi or matt finish. Gloss just need a touch of = another owned by the head of my Destructive Testing Department that = = somewhere about Garry refinishing rods during the depression. = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE6233.20FF29C0-- from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Sat Feb 27 09:13:05 1999 SMTP(Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1); Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:12:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Hex rod strip angles Sounds like a great idea to increase the angles but in the few rods I havemade and the others I have seen, glue lines never seemed to jump out atme.I just picked up my last rod and took a look and couldn't find any so tospeak. Maybe I have been lucky, I no idea it was such a problem. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Hex rod strip angles I am contemplating a Morgan hand mill and am interested in somefeedbackconcerning the normal 60-degree angle verses the optional 61 1/2degreeangle. How 'bout some pros and cons here.....I'm new to bamboo. I had the same question, and I just got my Morgan Hand Mill. Tomwas kind enough to send me both so I could try them out. I like the61 1/2. The advantage is it tends to eliminate gaps between the strips.Disadvantage is some say the increased pressure between the edgeswill force out the glue, and the glue line won't be as strong. I find it does help eliminate gaps, and I haven't noticed any weaknessin the glue line yet.>I'm so sold on this concept I use the 73 1/2 degreecutter for 5 striprods, and 92 degree cutter for quads. Darryl from mleider@mail.ptd.net Sat Feb 27 11:13:25 1999 0000 Subject: Re: REC i've experienced both ends of the spectrum....my first order from them tookwell over 3 weeks until it arrived at my house....my latest order surprisedthe heck out of me....placed an order on a Friday at around 5pm, Monday icalled to change my order at around 4pm, and to my surprise, i recievedthepackage on Tuesday, with the correct changes made...wow...i was quiteshocked by the speedy shipping (i didn't get express or anything, justregular UPS ground)....i don't think this is the norm, but i think thecompany has gotten better over the years....hope your order gets thereASAP.... -matthttp://members.xoom.com/mleider/ At 10:20 PM 2/26/99 -0500, Richard Nantel wrote:I ordered a real seat, ferrules, tip top and a stripping guide from REC onemonth ago. I called them today to inquire about the status of my order.Theymentioned it will likely ship next Monday or Tuesday. Is this the normwithREC or have I hit them at an unusually busy time? If such a delay is thenorm, I'll shop elsewhere. If this seems unusual, I'll try to forgive andforget. Thanks, Richard from dmanders@telusplanet.net Sat Feb 27 12:36:10 1999 byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Sat, 27 Feb 199911:35:40 -0700 Subject: Re: How long should it last At 09:25 AM 2/27/99 -0800, WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Book AntiquaApparently, thereason exterior poly (or "spar") works better for us is not so muchbecause it produces a tougher coating, but because it contains a greaterpercentage of oil in the medium (as well as the UV inhibitors). The oilcomponent allows greater flexibility in the cured coat to endure all theexpansion/contraction and flexing that a rod experiences. As to sheerprotection against foul weather, abrasion, and occasional dunkings, thereprobably isn't a significant difference between interior and exteriorpoly. A good waxing is what you want, in either case. Cheers, Bill 0000,8080,8080---------- Bill, I used to wax them all - wondered what would happen if I had to recoat -would the wax "repel" the new recoat? Didn't want to take a chance so nowax it is. Don from dmcfall@ODYSSEE.NET Sat Feb 27 19:36:42 1999 Subject: Re: How long should it last At 11:39 AM 27/02/1999 -0700, you wrote:At 09:25 AM 2/27/99 -0800, WILLIAM A HARMS wrote: Apparently, the reason exterior poly (or "spar") works better for us is notso much because it produces a tougher coating, but because it contains agreater percentage of oil in the medium (as well as the UV inhibitors).The oil component allows greater flexibility in the cured coat to endureallthe expansion/contraction and flexing that a rod experiences. As to sheerprotection against foul weather, abrasion, and occasional dunkings, thereprobably isn't a significant difference between interior and exterior poly.A good waxing is what you want, in either case.Cheers, Bill ---------- Bill, I used to wax them all - wondered what would happen if I had to recoat -would the wax "repel" the new recoat? Didn't want to take a chance so nowaxit is. Don If the wax contained silicone you would definitely be in trouble. I don'tknow about carnuba or beeswax. Dave M from tonkin@xtn.net Sat Feb 27 20:23:28 1999 Subject: Fly Lines There was a message or conversation within the last couple of weeksabout fly lines. Someone recommended lines to use with cane. One was from Scientific Anglers and I can't remember or find their model. Theother makes are ???????? Can someone please rerelay the thread or infoto me? Thank you in advance. from cattanac@wmis.net Sat Feb 27 22:09:39 1999 t2.wmis.net (8.8.5/SCO5) withSMTP id EAA05264; Sun, 28 Feb 1999 04:09:32 GMT Subject: Re: Fly Lines There have been several fly lines released in the past couple of yearsthat work well on bamboo rods - the one I'm familiar with is the XPS bySA.I tried an early McKenzie but thought that the surface was a bit rough - Ihave heard that that has been changed - the key is the surface coating ismore supple - with the lower tip speeds of bamboo the new harder linesthatgraphite require don't allow for a petite loop on a bamboo rod To save space to the list -A few folks have asked the dates for Grayrock 99 - Officially June 25 &26 with TTBBBQ V being the 26th. As in years past the Clubhouse will beopen Jordan is in the works - and there is now a fly shop in Boyne Falls thatservices the river. The Jordan River Fly Shop.I got a phone call LATE last night from the Grayrock Planning Council &Single Malt Quality Assurance Team - it appears that there was someconcernwith a Y2K bug - but they report that after much investigation - there willnot be a problem that can't be drank around.Also - An open invitation - there are a couple brave folks that arerisking .............. to be part of that adventure known as the MichiganOpener (April 24) - the official start of trout season - besides the obviousthe dance card also includes such activities as a pasta fest at Dunkin'Dan's - he for those that aren't aware of it is a river guide - well I'lllet you put it together. Then there is the sunday morning brunch at 'TheJudges' were criminal court records are sealed. Give a call or e-mail andwecan make a little more room on the floor of the Clubhouse from rperry@suffolk.lib.ny.us Sat Feb 27 23:48:25 1999 Subject: Re: Fly Lines On Sat, 27 Feb 1999, tonkin wrote: There was a message or conversation within the last couple of weeksabout fly lines. Someone recommended lines to use with cane. One was from Scientific Anglers and I can't remember or find their model. Theother makes are ???????? Can someone please rerelay the thread or infoto me? Thank you in advance. It was the Sci Anglers XPS DT. Speaking of lines for cane, someone had aSharpe's Scottie 6' 4/5wt here the other day and asked if I wanted to tryit out. So first with my favorite WF 4...yuk...then with an XPS 4...pretty good...then with the guy's own Wulff TT...the rod started singing.I was impressed since not expecting too much out of a Sharpe's. Thelittle extra uumph of the 4/5wt did it. Didn't get a chance to try theAirflo version of the TT (Deltataper 4/5) or any pure 5wts. Regards, Bob\|/Bob Perry ::==,#=#*oFly Supplies: (_ /|\ http://expage.com/page/flysupplieshttp://www.freeyellow.com/members4/flysupplies/Email catalog on request from maxs@geocities.co.jp Sun Feb 28 06:05:28 1999 mail.geocities.co.jp (1.3G-GeocitiesJ-1.3) with ESMTP id VAA01926 for; Sun, 28 Feb 1999 21:05:23 +0900 (JST) Subject: Leonard 38H or 38L Hello list, If someone could afford me the subject taper, it is very muchappreciated. Thanks, Max-- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail: maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://www.geocities.co.jp/Colosseum- Acropolis/2169http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod from SealRite@aol.com Sun Feb 28 07:39:41 1999 Subject: Re: How long should it last On some of my other wood working projects, I use a light coat of ArmorAll onit. It is heavy in UV inhibitors, but has a little silicone in also. Applyafter rod is totally finished. Anything that stays in the sun allday will beprotected. Test on a sample finish though before applying\Craig from tonkin@xtn.net Sun Feb 28 08:02:15 1999 Subject: Fly Lines Thank you Art for the reply. The message from Hank H. was the one that iwas looking for. Guess I had better learn to use the archives, ehh? from tonkin@xtn.net Sun Feb 28 08:10:51 1999 Subject: Fly Lines Thank you to all that replied! from HARMS1@prodigy.net Sun Feb 28 08:43:50 1999 Sun, 28 Feb 1999 09:43:42 -0500 Subject: Re: Leonard 38H or 38L =_NextPart_000_01BE62FE.A6698120" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE62FE.A6698120 Max, I shoud warn you about the Leonard tapers. Depending upon when the 38Hinquestion was build, the taper dimensions wil vary a great deal. Two of myfriends and I each had 38H rods a few years back, but their tapers (and, ofcourse, actions) were altogether different from one another. So, I have no Cheers, Bill ----------From: Max Satoh Subject: Leonard 38H or 38LDate: Sunday, February 28, 1999 4:06 AM Hello list, If someone could afford me the subject taper, it is very muchappreciated. Thanks, Max-- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail: maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://www.geocities.co.jp/Colosseum- Acropolis/2169http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod------ =_NextPart_000_01BE62FE.A6698120 = each had 38H rods a few years back, but their tapers (and, of course, = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE62FE.A6698120-- from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun Feb 28 09:14:28 1999 (SMTPD32-4.07) id ADAD23F00D0; Sun, 28 Feb 1999 10:15:57 EST Subject: Re: How long should it last Don,I really think the wax has too many benefits to pass up (e.g., resistsDEET, protectsagainst rapid moisture absorption, etc.).Good ol' gum turpentine removes wax, at least the Butcher wax I use,and permitsrecoating. It takes only a minute to clean the wax from a rod.Best regards,Reed Don & Sandy Andersen wrote: Bill, I used to wax them all - wondered what would happen if I had to recoat -would the wax"repel" the new recoat? Didn't want to take a chance so no wax it is. Don from mrj@aa.net Sun Feb 28 11:05:51 1999 Sun, 28 Feb 1999 09:05:47 -0800 Subject: RE: How long should it last rafting company about ArmourAll. They used it religiously on a raft toprotect it from the sun. I assume they were concerned about the UVproperties as you mentioned. They said that the treated raft cracked andbecame unusable in record time. They quit using it after that. Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- SealRite@aol.com Subject: Re: How long should it last On some of my other wood working projects, I use a light coat of ArmorAllonit. It is heavy in UV inhibitors, but has a little silicone in also. Applyafter rod is totally finished. Anything that stays in the sun allday will beprotected. Test on a sample finish though before applying\Craig from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Feb 28 11:16:50 1999 Subject: Re: My Webb Page Hi, Guys,I've just set up my Free Web page through AOL.I'm not trying to sell anything, I just want to know if itcomes up OK and what you think of it. Check it out- http://members.aol.com/leclair123/express/index.htm Thanks guys, Dave Leclair from LECLAIR123@aol.com Sun Feb 28 11:23:29 1999 Subject: Re: How long should it last I have been a Volvo Automotive Tech. for the past thirty-five years. We have used a lot of these type of products over the years. We found that, dash boards treated with Amour all on aregular basis, faded and cracked after a few years. Dash boardsNot treated, lasted longer and did not fade or crack. Dave LeClair from dmanders@telusplanet.net Sun Feb 28 11:54:21 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Sun, 28 Feb 199910:54:01 - 0700 Subject: RE: How long should it last At 09:05 AM 2/28/99 -0800, Martin Jensen wrote: riverrafting company about ArmourAll. They used it religiously on a raft toprotect it from the sun. I assume they were concerned about the UVproperties as you mentioned. They said that the treated raft cracked andbecame unusable in record time. They quit using it after that. Martin Jensen Martin, Sounds like the fly line I used it on. Don from anglport@con2.com Sun Feb 28 13:32:55 1999 Subject: RE: How long should it last from what I read some time back, vinyl stays pliable by exuding an oilovertime. The ArmorAll seems to maintain the softness by leeching the stuffoutfaster than is normal for the compound and gives short-term benefits attheexpense of long-term life. Can't recall where I read it but it made senseat the time.Art They said that the treated raft cracked andbecame unusable in record time. They quit using it after that. Martin Jensen from jlintvet@clarityconnect.com Sun Feb 28 15:09:37 1999 SMTP(Eudora Internet Mail Server 2.2.1); Sun, 28 Feb 1999 16:08:09 -0500 Subject: Re: final planing forms My good friend is in the process of making some forms to the same spec'wesell ours. I would suggest going with q 1/4-28 instead of a 5/16- 18thread.In my opinion 5/16-18 is overkill and you loose a lot of accuracy in thesetting stage with a substantially coarser thread. One bit of advice if Imay....clamp the work piece to a steady surface while tapping. This willgreatly reduce the chances of breaking a tap....along the same lines...buyseveral taps and switch to a new on any time you feel the process isgettinga bit tougher. Best wishes. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- Subject: final planing forms Not only have I gotten completely overwhelmed by splitting and roughplaning of bamboo; but now I am making my own final planing forms. Myformis 6 ft. long and I intend on a taper of .005"per 5" on the form. Theguide I am using is the series of articles in "The Bamboo Fly Rod"magazine that the depth at the tip end of the tip side be .025" and the depth at thebutt end of the tip side be .095". Am I right in assuming that the formshave to be screwed completely together to get these depthmeasurements? Another burning question; are the dimensions given onrod tapers the depth of the 60 degree triangle, or the width? Any helpwould be GREATLY appreciated! Scott from SalarFly@aol.com Sun Feb 28 16:00:24 1999 Subject: Morgan Hand Mill - Speed I've just finished milling 18 strips for a (what else?) Sir Darryl Favorite,start to finish - that's pressing nodes, straightening rough strips,roughingthe strips, milling to final taper - in 3 1/2 hours. The biggest difference was soaking the strips in water overnight. So evenif you have to dry them for a half hour at 200 deg. F, you would be wayahead than milling dry. I haven't done it yet, but I see no reason why planing on a planing formwouldn't be dramatically reduced also. Darryl from dmanders@telusplanet.net Sun Feb 28 17:31:35 1999 don") byedtnps05.telusplanet.net with SMTP id ; Sun, 28 Feb1999 16:31:31 - 0700 Subject: Politically correct rod making To all, Damn near made a faux pas the other day @ the fishing shop when someoneasked me what I was up to @ home. Nearly said I was going home to "varnish my pole" - quickly rethought thatand nearly said " I was going to dip my rod" - finally mumbled andstumbledthrough an explanation. Good thing I didn't say " I was going to mount myferrule". Have a great weekend, Don from hhholland@erols.com Sun Feb 28 17:34:55 1999 Subject: Re: My Webb Page Hi, Dave,Just checked out your page -- looks great. Nice going!Best regards,Hank H. -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: My Webb Page Hi, Guys,I've just set up my Free Web page through AOL.I'm not trying to sell anything, I just want to know if itcomes up OK and what you think of it. Check it out- http://members.aol.com/leclair123/express/index.htm Thanks guys, Dave Leclair from saltwein@swbell.net Sun Feb 28 17:54:21 1999 RAA19523 Subject: Epon I used epon for the first time today. Whew, that stuff is thick! I didlike the open time compared to urac and clean-up doesn't seem to be abig problem. I don't know that having a whole lot of time to straighten a blank isgoing to be a plus for me. I have gotten the sections a lot straighterthan I did with urac but with the section still being pliable it seemsas though one should be able to get it dead straight. I straighten outone bend and invariably put in another. Kind of like trying tostraighten one area of a warm pretzel. I read where some of you have hung weights on strips that are curing.Does this help to straighten the strip? Ounces or pounds? Gluing up the fifth rod tomorrow. Each rod is still a vast learningexperience. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from teekay35@interlynx.net Sun Feb 28 18:39:26 1999 "'rodmakers@mail.wustl.edu'" Subject: Re: final planing forms I would consider using 5/16-24 NF high strength socket screws. ----------From: Jon Lintvet Subject: Re: final planing formsDate: Sunday, February 28, 1999 4:13 PM My good friend is in the process of making some forms to the same spec'wesell ours. I would suggest going with q 1/4-28 instead of a 5/16- 18thread.In my opinion 5/16-18 is overkill and you loose a lot of accuracy in thesetting stage with a substantially coarser thread. One bit of advice ifImay....clamp the work piece to a steady surface while tapping. This willgreatly reduce the chances of breaking a tap....along the samelines...buyseveral taps and switch to a new on any time you feel the process isgettinga bit tougher. Best wishes. Jon Lintvet (Munro Rod Company)140 E. Spencer St.Ithaca, NY 14850(800) 836-7558 or (607) 277-4510www.munrorodco.com-----Original Message----- From: Scott Yuill Date: Thursday, February 25, 1999 7:00 PMSubject: final planing forms Not only have I gotten completely overwhelmed by splitting and roughplaning of bamboo; but now I am making my own final planing forms. Myformis 6 ft. long and I intend on a taper of .005"per 5" on the form. Theguide I am using is the series of articles in "The Bamboo Fly Rod"magazine forms,that the depth at the tip end of the tip side be .025" and the depth atthebutt end of the tip side be .095". Am I right in assuming that the formshave to be screwed completely together to get these depthmeasurements? Another burning question; are the dimensions given onrod tapers the depth of the 60 degree triangle, or the width? Any helpwould be GREATLY appreciated! Scott from HomeyDKlown@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 28 22:20:33 1999 with ESMTP id ;Mon, 1 Mar 1999 04:20:01 +0000 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: Epon Hi Steve, As someone on this list once told me, I'm no expert and this advice isworth what you paid for it. That said... I hang about 24 OZ (2-12 oz weights) off the end of my blank (that'sright... all one of them!!) and it seems to do a good job of keepingthings straight. I do admit to some heat straightening though... I'mopen to criticism here, but I get pretty good results with the weight! I managed to get one split, but that (in my opinion) was due to workingtoo long into the open time of the glue (more than 35 minutes). WhenEpon gets elastic it doesn't fill the gaps (doesn't flow and fill) andyou should mix another batch. Is the open time of Epon longer than URAC or vice versa??? If Epon hasthe slower setup, I would recommend it. I dunno about you, but I tendto work a little on the slow side when it comes to binding. So, inEpon's defense, I would say mix two or more batches. It seems thelogical solution if you're going to take your time. I guess things willget better when I get a little more experience with this stuff, but fornow I'll stick (no pun intended!) with what works... My butt sectionhas no gaps and has managed to clean up very nicely! I can keep youposted with the results of the rest of my experiences with Epon if youlike... Good luck to you! Dennis Steve wrote: I used epon for the first time today. Whew, that stuff is thick! I didlike the open time compared to urac and clean-up doesn't seem to be abig problem. I don't know that having a whole lot of time to straighten a blank isgoing to be a plus for me. I have gotten the sections a lot straighterthan I did with urac but with the section still being pliable it seemsas though one should be able to get it dead straight. I straighten outone bend and invariably put in another. Kind of like trying tostraighten one area of a warm pretzel. I read where some of you have hung weights on strips that are curing.Does this help to straighten the strip? Ounces or pounds? Gluing up the fifth rod tomorrow. Each rod is still a vast learningexperience. Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from channer@hubwest.com Sun Feb 28 22:37:20 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id A9F91DB0154; Sun, 28 Feb 1999 21:39:21 MST Subject: Denver Guys;I just got home from the Denver International Sportsman's Exposition and Iwant to tell you all what a great time I had and to say Thank You to MarkMetcalf for allowing me to hang out at his booth. I had a chance to meetMark, Stuart Kirkfield, Mike Clark, Joe Arguello, Brian Thoman, SteveWeissand lots of other nice folks. It was a great treat for me to cast rodsbuilt by Joe, Brian and Steve(all of whom are making very nice rods) and tohave them try mine. I especially appreciated the input from Mark andStuart, both of whom were kind enough to offer me some encouragementandsome words of wisdom. I'll have to get busy this year and be betterprepared for next year. I hope to see some more of you there. John from saweiss@flash.net Sun Feb 28 23:06:29 1999 Subject: Re: Denver Guys;I just got home from the Denver International Sportsman's Exposition andIwant to tell you all what a great time I had and to say Thank You to MarkMetcalf for allowing me to hang out at his booth. I had a chance to meetMark, Stuart Kirkfield, Mike Clark, Joe Arguello, Brian Thoman, SteveWeissand lots of other nice folks. It was a great treat for me to cast rodsbuilt by Joe, Brian and Steve(all of whom are making very nice rods) andtohave them try mine. I especially appreciated the input from Mark andStuart, both of whom were kind enough to offer me some encouragementandsome words of wisdom. I'll have to get busy this year and be betterprepared for next year. I hope to see some more of you there. John John said it well. The show was fun, especially when the little rodmakersgroup got together to cast each others rods at the casting pool. There wassome impressive casting that easily outshone some of the casting beingdone bamboo rods cast. The folks are making good rods that are great fishingtools and look good as well.Thanks to Mark for enabling this little gathering. The public wasinterested, and lots of people stopped to look and talk.Steve