from hexagon@odyssee.net Sat May 1 07:15:45 1999 Subject: sorry Sorry about that, It came attached to an email from John Cooper in theUK. It was not attached to his 2nd posting to me so he must have removedit.I had no idea what it was and I hope I have got rid of it.Sorry once again.Terry from harryt@noln.com Sat May 1 07:24:13 1999 Subject: THANK YOU I am new to the list and would like to thank whoever sent me thelovelyVIRUS "HAPPY99.exe".Can you tell me how to getrid of this HAPPYthing????????????? from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat May 1 07:39:45 1999 (SMTPD32-5.01) id A663280000FA; Sat, 01 May 1999 08:41:07 EDT Subject: Re: sorry Terry,Don't worry, we've been down this road before on the list. We got HAPPYjust a few months ago. I hope you can recover your system alright.Best regards,Reed TERENCE ACKLAND wrote: Sorry about that, It came attached to an email from John Cooper in theUK. It was not attached to his 2nd posting to me so he must haveremovedit.I had no idea what it was and I hope I have got rid of it.Sorry once again.Terry from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Sat May 1 09:36:29 1999 (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id OAA125784; Sat, 1 May 1999 14:36:22 GMT Subject: Re: who planted the seed? I have been going through all the Archives, month by month (sincetheystarted in 95) to learn as much as I can from the knowledge of thisgroup. If all the "useful" information could be distilled from the soupof opinions, kids pi**ing contests and personal attacks the result wouldbe better than any of the books written on the subject. All that ismissing is drawings and photoes & you would have a first class history,information and construction guide on building/restoring, designinggrass sticks.A number of threads started in 1998 under various Subject headings,try"Fast Tapers For Graphite Users", one of them by David Rodgers evensuggest a $300 cane rod using modern techniques. I would suggest if theseed was not planted on this list it certainly covered alot of the sameground people are talking about again.CheersCraig from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat May 1 09:57:07 1999 Sat, 1 May 1999 22:56:02 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: sorry Actually Terry, he might not have. It seems happy dosn't go with *every*message. It's prob worth contacting John.I'll bet all this is bring back some not so fond memories in some places;-)It might be worth relating to the group what you saw when it was run.There are supposed to be variations and this thing might take as longto die as tailgating. Tony On Sat, 1 May 1999, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote: Sorry about that, It came attached to an email from John Cooper in theUK. It was not attached to his 2nd posting to me so he must haveremovedit.I had no idea what it was and I hope I have got rid of it.Sorry once again.Terry /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many Microsoft personel does it take to change a light bulb? A. None. They change the new standard to "Darkness" Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from dpeaston@wzrd.com Sat May 1 10:16:29 1999 Subject: Re: THANK YOU At 08:26 AM 5/1/1999 -0400, harry wrote:I am new to the list and would like to thank whoever sent me thelovelyVIRUS "HAPPY99.exe".Can you tell me how to getrid of this HAPPYthing????????????? The way I got it out of my system the first time was: 1.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE 2.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL 3.replace WINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.DLL withWINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.SKA You will need to close your net connection and re-start the computer todo this(because if Wsock32.DLL is in use you can't replace it).4.delete the downloaded file, usually named HAPPY99.EXE I did all this and survived the first wave! Virus Shield nabbed the sucker as it tried to worm into my system.Regards,- Doug from brookie@frii.com Sat May 1 11:05:55 1999 Subject: calipering cane well, i AM going to whine, but this calipering is the pits !!! this willtake me two days and two nights to get done. the pedantic that I am, I ammeasuring and remeasuring. i need automation here. *G* ok, first two questions : o I'm measuring starting 5" down from thetop of the tip top guide, right ? -or- from the top of the cane, just below theguide ? o I'm measuring 1-4, 2-5, and 3-6, right ? from harryt@noln.com Sat May 1 11:15:15 1999 Subject: Thank You Thanks to all for the help . I think I got rid of itthanks again from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat May 1 11:23:47 1999 Subject: Happy 99 Ok tell me again about this virus and what does it take to get infectedwith it?I already had my mother board trashed a few weeks ago by another virus.Bret from sats@gte.net Sat May 1 11:24:00 1999 Subject: Re: Calipers o Put the two sections together, measure every 5", 3 places.o Measuring in inches is fine ? the caliper does both, inch or mm.o Where there is a guide or ferrule, go to next available cane area, noting where g/f are.o Note if thick or thin varnish ( kinda hard for me, not having alotof experience) I usually measure all three sides (flats) and average the difference.Don't be surprised if you find some "alarming" differences of .005in. ormorebetween the flats. I do something like this around ferrules and guides. If I can't get to thearea exactly, I'll measure on both sides and average the average. Thereshouldn't be too much difference in 1in. Ferrules are a little trickybecausethey take up more space then guide wraps. but you can do it. (Look out. The next thing you know, you'll be looking longingly at no. 9 1/2planes.) Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from harryt@noln.com Sat May 1 11:28:22 1999 Subject: First Rod Can anyone help me with a first rod choice????? Something like 7' 3 or 4wt.rod . Can you tell me how to read the graphs( at the end of hexrod) thanks from SalarFly@aol.com Sat May 1 12:30:12 1999 Subject: Re: First Rod In a message dated 5/1/99 9:31:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,harryt@noln.com writes: Can anyone help me with a first rod choice????? Something like 7' 3 or4wt.rod . Can you tell me how to read the graphs( at the end of hexrod) thanks Well....Naw, forget it...everyone is tired of hearing my recommendation fora first rod, and seeing my stress graph explanation.Darryl from rmoon@ida.net Sat May 1 13:13:20 1999 0000 Subject: Re: calipering cane SueI think you are being a little too particular. The difference in thetop of the tip top and the top of the cane is not more than 1/2"Remember thast the cane was cut off to bring the tip top to the requiredlength. Therefor Measure from the top of the tip top 1-4 2-5 3-6 Right. The advice that Terry gave you is right on. Actually an inch one way orthe other may not be discernable in the whole taper, but averaging willnot get you too far off. One thing you should not omit (along with thedistance cast, markings, unusual thing) is tomeasure the ferrules.Often ferrules may be undersized or oversized from the end canedimension. Don't sweat it, everyone who wants the taper will have questions and youcannot forsee all of them Be sure that you buy a 9 1/2, but regrind the bevel to something like 30degrees or beyond. Yoiu could also talk to Frank Armbrewster in yourarea about a planing form Ralph from rmoon@ida.net Sat May 1 13:14:40 1999 0000 Subject: Re: Happy 99 BretRead all the postings. Everything you want to know has been said in thelast 48 hours on lineRalph from mrj@aa.net Sat May 1 14:04:33 1999 Sat, 1 May 1999 12:04:19 -0700 Subject: RE: Viruses, etc I am coning to this subject after not reading my e-mail for a couple ofdaysso maybe someone has answered this. My question is, do all the people whohave gotten this virus run up to date virus detection software? I wasunderthe impression that even not very current software data files would pickupthis virus. At work we have Mcafee with the 3.0.0 engine and we cannotevenupdate the data files anymore and IT still picks this virus up and cleansit.Martin Jensen -----Original Message----- Subject: Viruses, etc Terry,You're sending out the "Happy 99" worm in your e-mail. I don't thinkI'minfected as it's just a paste job on mine, but you might want to check itout.I was going to respond with the actual message I received, but I don'tknow if that'd make it worse.Art from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat May 1 14:41:28 1999 (SMTPD32-5.01) id A9061E3E014E; Sat, 01 May 1999 15:41:58 EDT Subject: Gaining converts All,I had some fun yesterday. I was fishing at a favorite local streamand another fly fisherman joined me on a large pool. We cast amiably foran hour or so, traded a few flies, and then, as it got dark both leftthe water. As we were heading for the cars I asked him if he had everused a long rod, say 10'. (He was casting a plastic 8' rod with a namelike "Sag".) He said "No", so we walked over to the millpond and Ihanded him my 10' 6wt. wetfly rod. (This is the one that Kim Fairchilddubbed the Dr. Bob-Kim ...) I advised him to use mainly his wrist andjust relax.You should have seen his eyes as he delivered a long gentle caststraight out there with no effort. He started smiling and didn't stop. Alittle babbling, too. He didn't want to stop. He noticed the silk lineresting on the water, obviously suspended by surface tension. This too,he found to be good.Of course I had to explain that the rod was representative of acertain action but cane seemed to me the only way that action could beexpressed. He was very thoughtful as he walked away. I don't think hefeel as kindly toward his Sag again.Best regards,Reed from briansr@point-net.com Sat May 1 18:17:54 1999 Subject: antique Hi listI bought a brass & copper blow torch today. residue of fuel seems to havebeen Naptha. Before I blow the driveway up,would anyone on the listconfirmwhat was used in these things as a fuel . My father recons in the airforcethey used methol al.Warning on one mentioned NOT to use leaded gas. BTWTerry & Richard there were 3 others if your interested in one.TIA Brian from HARMS1@prodigy.net Sat May 1 19:23:03 1999 Sat, 1 May 1999 20:22:57 -0400 Subject: Re: Calipers =_NextPart_000_01BE9410.038B4900" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9410.038B4900 "Differences of .005" or more" from one flat to the next ??!!!! Whyshould this be in a rod that's well built? There should not be more than.001" - .002" difference, and in a rod that's truly well made, thereshould rarely be more than .001" difference. cheers, Bill----------From: Terry L. Kirkpatrick Subject: Re: CalipersDate: Saturday, May 01, 1999 10:18 AM o Put the two sections together, measure every 5", 3 places.o Measuring in inches is fine ? the caliper does both, inch or mm.o Where there is a guide or ferrule, go to next available canearea, noting where g/f are.o Note if thick or thin varnish ( kinda hard for me, not havingalotof experience) I usually measure all three sides (flats) and average the difference.Don't be surprised if you find some "alarming" differences of .005in. ormorebetween the flats. I do something like this around ferrules and guides. If I can't get tothearea exactly, I'll measure on both sides and average the average. Thereshouldn't be too much difference in 1in. Ferrules are a little trickybecausethey take up more space then guide wraps. but you can do it. (Look out. The next thing you know, you'll be looking longingly at no. 91/2planes.) Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net--- ---=_NextPart_000_01BE9410.038B4900 "Differences of = and in a rod that's truly well made, there should rarely be more = = = I'll measure on both sides and average the average. = = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9410.038B4900-- from Grhghlndr@aol.com Sat May 1 19:31:28 1999 Subject: Short one piece rods List,OK I know I will probably be chastised fro this and told to look in the archives but if anyone can save me the time here is what I need. I needthe tapers for rods of 5 foot and less that are one piece.Bret from rmoon@ida.net Sat May 1 19:38:03 1999 Subject: Re: Calipers BillNot unusual to find .005 difference. Maybe because of vibratingbevelers??????????Ralph from brookie@frii.com Sat May 1 19:50:19 1999 Subject: Re: Calipers BillNot unusual to find .005 difference. Maybe because of vibrating bevelers??????????Ralph I just finished caliper-ing a rod, first time calipering. Threemeasurements every 5", etc. and most of the diff. in three measures-_were_ only .001 and .002. Until that is, I got to the 60" and 70"stations. Even then, the diff as .003 and .004 Possible that the > .004 could be due to use, moisture, in other words,abuse ? from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net Sat May 1 19:52:00 1999 (envelope- from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net) Subject: Re: Calipers Oh pshaw! You may get a fight saying stuff like that. Lots of us have miced really nice rods from really great makers and Idon't recall seeing many that held to 1 one thousandth over the entirerod. I will even go way out on a limb and say that it isn't necessaryto hold to 1/1,000 to produce a really great rod. That's not to saythat it isn't a good idea to shoot for that accuracy, only that in thereal world it's awfully hard to hold to. Okay, kick sand in my face. Brian from chris@artistree.com Sat May 1 19:54:21 1999 Subject: Latest Issue of TBFR Finally received the latest issue today. Be prepared to spend some timein the hammock enjoying the spring weather with this one. It's a big issue.-- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from mrj@aa.net Sat May 1 20:12:55 1999 Sat, 1 May 1999 18:12:49 -0700 Subject: RE: Calipers boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE93FE.2B4D1200" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE93FE.2B4D1200 I think that you will find this great of a difference in a lot of well builtrods. A few thou here or there is not going to ruin a rod you know.Personally, I am very skeptical of anyone ( hand planing) who says thattheycan keep tolerances to .001 over the complete rod.-----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu HARMSSent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:20 PM Subject: Re: Calipers "Differences of .005" or more" from one flat to the next ??!!!! Whyshould this be in a rod that's well built? There should not be more than.001" - .002" difference, and in a rod that's truly well made, thereshould rarely be more than .001" difference. cheers, Bill----------From: Terry L. Kirkpatrick Subject: Re: CalipersDate: Saturday, May 01, 1999 10:18 AM o Put the two sections together, measure every 5", 3 places.o Measuring in inches is fine ? the caliper does both, inch ormm.o Where there is a guide or ferrule, go to next available canearea,noting where g/f are.o Note if thick or thin varnish ( kinda hard for me, not havingalotof experience) I usually measure all three sides (flats) and average the difference.Don't be surprised if you find some "alarming" differences of .005in. ormorebetween the flats. I do something like this around ferrules and guides. If I can't getto thearea exactly, I'll measure on both sides and average the average.Thereshouldn't be too much difference in 1in. Ferrules are a little trickybecausethey take up more space then guide wraps. but you can do it. (Look out. The next thing you know, you'll be looking longingly at no.9 1/2planes.) Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE93FE.2B4D1200 think that you will find this great of a difference in a lot of well = A few thou here or there is not going to ruin a rod you know. = very skeptical of anyone ( hand planing) who says that they can keep = to .001 over the complete rod. WILLIAM A = HARMSSent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:20 Calipers = ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE93FE.2B4D1200-- from sats@gte.net Sat May 1 20:30:07 1999 Subject: Re: treating cork Chris. I use Acrylic artist's varnish (matt) The brand I use is Golden withu.v. protection.It darkens the cork slightly but REALLY protects it !!! MySpey rod has taken some punishment the past 6 years, but after washing,still looks new !!Cheers Brian One suggestion. Cut the acrylic more then you might first think. I usedsomeon a grip and over did it. It's easier to apply a second coat. 4 Landlocks today and one nice fish that rose in the classic AtlanticSalmon rise from the bottom of a pool to the surface !!!! Great fun !!! Good show!Terry "Sunfish" KirkpatrickSafety Harbor, Fl.(Old Tampa Bay)sats@gte.net from cmj@post11.tele.dk Sun May 2 04:45:40 1999 (InterMail v4.0 201-221) with SMTP +0200 Subject: Sv: First Rod -Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 7:35 PMSubject: Re: First Rod In a message dated 5/1/99 9:31:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,harryt@noln.com writes: Can anyone help me with a first rod choice????? Something like 7' 3 or4wt.rod . Can you tell me how to read the graphs( at the end of hexrod) thanks Well....Naw, forget it...everyone is tired of hearing my recommendation fora first rod, and seeing my stress graph explanation.Darryl Darryl Risking to repeat myself, please try to have your explanationre. stresscurves uploaded permanently on Rodmakers. It ISthe best explanation seen yet. As for a first rod, how a bout a Sir D special. (didn't expectTHAT, yes? :-) Talking of the Sir D special, did you ever transform it intoan 8' #6? Got a Cross, a Young and a Garrison taper in this size,but would like to try the Special. Could You be persuadedto do a little tweeking? I guess other listmembers would beinterested. regards Carsten Jorgensen from watson@cape-consult.co.uk Sun May 2 07:16:03 1999 Sun, 2 May 1999 13:14:20 +0100 (BST) Subject: Re: sorry I have called John this morning and have left a msg with his wife that hehas a bug. Apparently someone else called him to let him know yesterday.Tim.----- Original Message----- Subject: Re: sorry Actually Terry, he might not have. It seems happy dosn't go with *every*message. It's prob worth contacting John.I'll bet all this is bring back some not so fond memories in some places;-)It might be worth relating to the group what you saw when it was run.There are supposed to be variations and this thing might take as longto die as tailgating. Tony On Sat, 1 May 1999, TERENCE ACKLAND wrote: Sorry about that, It came attached to an email from John Cooper in theUK. It was not attached to his 2nd posting to me so he must haveremovedit.I had no idea what it was and I hope I have got rid of it.Sorry once again.Terry /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many Microsoft personel does it take to change a light bulb?A. None. They change the new standard to "Darkness" Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from TSmithwick@aol.com Sun May 2 08:17:07 1999 Subject: Re: Sv: First Rod RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu In a message dated 5/2/99 9:48:15 AM, cmj@post11.tele.dk wrote: Can anyone help me with a first rod choice????? Something like 7' 3or 4wt.rod .>> I recognize that there is a lot of room for divergent opinion on this one, but unless a beginner has an experienced maker at his side, I wouldrecommend starting with a heavier taper. I would suggest something in the 8 foot 6 weight range. The tip strips are going to be a lot more substantial, and there will be a lot less problems with planing, binding, straighening , etc, as the beginner goes through the inevitable learning curve.I would agree that Darryl's stress curve explanation should be posted atthe web site. I thought it was at one time. I'm sure everyone is also tired of me touting the excellence of the heavier Garrison tapers, but I would suggest the 212E taper to a beginner. It isn'ta fast rod, but it is also not slow, and it is not at all tricky to cast. from brookie@frii.com Sun May 2 08:29:25 1999 Subject: Results of the Mic-ing RodM. list,^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Another long post here. It's raining again in Colorado and the rivers arehigh ! No fishing this weekend at all, and probably wiped out now untilthrough the spring snow runoff. Around here, that can mean into July.Second best, if ya can't do, then talk about it ! This post ? Amazingly the subject matter is very narrow and shouldconsume only a few-lined post. Not to be. In the manner of anyone overlyenthused about the cause-of-the-moment, I shall expand significantly. And the cause-of-the-moment ? Cane of course.And the over-enthusiasm ? Managed to perform and record a taper. My thanks to those of you who posted both publicly and privately withadvice on how I could do this. Consider if you will, a person like me thathasn't had any experience with work tools. After I completed thisexercise,I was sitting there thinking about it --- likened it to someone who hasalways wanted to be a painter, has no knowledge of the tools of the trade,nor how to use them, yet because of the draw and lure, presses onregardless. And then ends up talking about it ad nauseum to anyone whowill listen *VBG* ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ To the Caliper-Caper then : I DID give up almost immediately on writing down all three measurementsforthe length of the rod. My unscientific observation on this Moran rod Icalipered is that most of the three measurements had at least two thatmatched, with the third being slightly different ( usually diff by .001 and.002 ). Only when I got down into the 60" and 70" stations did the threemeasurements vary, two would be the same and the third off by .004 ButIDID take three measurements and averaged them in my head. Let me recount what I did. Put a 60" piece of tape down on table, marked off every 5" with marker. Put small pieces of nylon tape on caliper jaws and reset to 0000 Put smaller pieces of tape on the rod indicating the 5" point, so when I lifted the rod up to measure, I knew where to measure ( see below for this one critical problem in the process ). Made sure the caliper was still at 0000 after each 5" measure. Where the guide wrap was at the magic 5" increment, I moved to closest open spot and noted. It was not easy holding the caliper as steady as you think you should.Plus, here was my biggest problem ! It appeared from one person's advicethat I should put the rod down on the table next to the tape. Which I did.Then perform the measurements by leaving the rod on the table and justturning it to get the three measurements. That did not work at all forme. The guides would make the turning process a problem and the rodessentially would 'bounce'. PLUS, the caliper was not easy to hold norread in a perpendicular manner to the rod ( does this make sense ? ) Instead then, after I measured the 5" increments and put small piece oftape for the first three or four measuring points, I would take the rod from the table, stand it up on the floor and use the caliper in aperpendicular manner, looking 'down' on the digital read out. The Tom Moran, 7'6", two piece, two tips. I only measured one tip. Just The tiptop guide is 5/8" from the top of the rounded part to the end of theguide. Then there is another 1/4" of wrapping extending down on the cane.So a total of 7/8" before I got the first clean cane point of measure. 7/8" .071( 5" = guide wrap in way )5 1/8" .09810" .12115" .14120" .15525" .16330" .17835" .188( 40" = wrap in way )40 1/8" .201( 45" = male ferrule, .242 ) At this point, put the two sections together firmly, seated male to female. 50" .234( 55" = wrap in way )54 3/4" .24760" .25365" .26770" .27975" .29380" .377 outbetween the 40" and the 50" measures ? and come up with what ? Obviouslythe cane underneath the ferrule has been shaved down and wouldn't be atruemid between the 40" and 50" measurements. I didn't do the graph paper. I am not building a rod, just experiencingthe first-ever caliper. So many processes to do, that I had to foresakesomething and the orderly tracking of the three numbers, thence to begraphed was not done ! Maybe I will with the littler rod. I like thatstick better anyway :-) Sorry this is so long. There ya have it. Will do the Constable today. from rcurry@ttlc.net Sun May 2 08:42:08 1999 (SMTPD32-5.01) id A6522300280; Sun, 02 May 1999 09:42:42 EDT Subject: Re: Gaining converts All, I've had some questions about the 10' rod I mentioned, so I submitmy last response to the list.*********Ed,Wetfly tapers, which are essentially straight tapers, were alwayslighter inthe hand than dryfly rods of the same length. And, since false-castingisminimized, the number of casts is probably reduced by at least twothirds (while,the time your fly spends on the water increases). Again, using a longrod likethis, the caster can keep his arm at his side, rather than raising 15lbs overheadto cast. I could go on. Suffice it to say, Samson I'm not, but I cancomfortablyfish this all day. I use a Pfleuger Medalist 1498, a large, heavy reel,tocounterbalance the rod. Since no extreme arm movements are necessary, agoodbalance in the hand when the rod is at rest is essential. Don't use alight reel.The taper is recorded in Hexrod(http://www.uwm.edu/~stetzer/Tapers/hexrod-archive.html#nichols) itscalled aB.F. Nichols (which I originally thought it was, but having seen moreNicholssince, I now just consider it a nice "Unknown"). It orinally hadflip- ring guides,I replaced these with snakes. I left the original tiptop, a NS ring 1/8"internaldiameter. Lots of intermediates. Its calcutta cane, very attractive.Full NSreelseat. Ornate, long, NS ferrules (not serrated or waterproofed).Sheetcork grip.About 1890 period. I fish a GCF (very aggressive, short belly WF6) silkon it.Great rollcasting rod, too.Best regards,Reed Ed Miller wrote: OK, I'll bite, what's the taper for this 10' 6wt? Can you really castthis without hurting your arm? Ten feet seems like it would be prettyheavy but you make it sound very doable. I'm very curious.Thanks, Ed Miller. from fiveside@net-gate.com Sun May 2 15:17:45 1999 ns1.net-gate.com (8.8.3/8.7.3) with SMTP id QAA16159 for; Subject: Signs To the List,Take a break.This subject isn't about rods but does relate to fishing. If it'sinappropriate, please forgive me - this idea has bothered me for sometime.Driving the interstate, or even local roads, the overpasses often containsigns designating the intersecting street or road. That's nice and surelyhelpful at times. But then you pass over an attractive stream and wonder -was that the Lehigh? Or Mud Run? Maybe even the Battenkill? Or youname?it. That's the point. Supplying signs don't seem to be a big deal. They seemto be plentiful. Wouldn't it be nice if we could get them placed onbridges??OK now back to splitting and planing. Bill from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net Sun May 2 15:35:23 1999 (envelope- from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net) Subject: Identification help?? boundary="------------72BB11FAF2CCCAB9465E3164" --------------72BB11FAF2CCCAB9465E3164 Hey gang, Picked up an old double built that looks sort of like it says"Expert 20? Double Built". The underlined portions are prettyscratched and hard to read. It's 9' long, three piece with a small ns stripper, nickel platedbrass ferrules (I think), Aluminum dnlocking reel seat with finethreads, knurled nut, wrapped gold tipped red, no intermediates, andlooks original. Moss green canvas bag and thin- walled, small diametertube. Any ideas?? Brian --------------72BB11FAF2CCCAB9465E3164 Hey gang, like it says portions are pretty scratched and hard to read. nickel plated brass ferrules (I think), Aluminum dnlocking reel seat withfine threads, knurled nut, wrapped gold tipped red, no intermediates, and diametertube. Brian --------------72BB11FAF2CCCAB9465E3164-- from briansr@point-net.com Sun May 2 16:21:16 1999 0000 Subject: Re: signs BillYou have to move up the coast to Vt. ,N.Y. or Quebec.Most Salmon rivers in Quebec even have signs indicating pools!!!!!!Beforewarned though most here in Quebec are taxed @ btwn.40 to YES 53%Cheers Brian from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Sun May 2 16:46:39 1999 out4.ibm.net (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id VAA86946 for; Sun,2 May 1999 21:46:35 GMT Subject: Re:signs Bill, taking a break also, hockey game is over, sharpening irons. Yes object already). Montana is the best state I've seen (I'm from Alberta)they name most river/stream crossing & even better designate AnglerAccess Sites. If you have limited time it sure saves alot of timelooking at topo maps, asking directions etc.& as a bonus it congregatesall us "tourists" in one area. I'm constantly surprized how poor Alberta is in that regard, withspecial sections/closures/slot limits in effect unless you know an areawell it's awful tough to figure out where you can/can't fish.Back to the stonesCraig from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net Sun May 2 17:48:06 1999 (envelope- from bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net) Subject: Re: Identification help?? Don't think either of those are right. The rod is definitely from the 1930'sera. Cane looks like Heddon's ammonia toned stuff. Grip is made of nice1/2 "rings, and the rod has a nice swelled butt.Originally thought maybe a Cross or SB Cross, but I've since looked atexamples of both, and they aren't like this one. I guess lot's of outfitsmadedouble builts. Thanks for the suggestions. Brian Canerods@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 5/2/99 1:38:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,bdcreek@grand-rapids.crosswinds.net writes: Picked up an old double built that looks sort of like it says"Expert 20? Double Built". The underlined portions are prettyscratched and hard to read. It's 9' long, three piece with a small ns stripper, nickel platedbrass ferrules (I think), Aluminum dnlocking reel seat with finethreads, knurled nut, wrapped gold tipped red, no intermediates, andlooks original. Moss green canvas bag and thin- walled, smalldiametertube. Any ideas?? Brian Montague or South Bend would be my two guesses - look in Sinclair's"BambooRod Restoration Handbook" for reelseat/ferrule designs. from jpsnbs@erols.com Mon May 3 07:59:52 1999 Subject: Test from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon May 3 09:05:30 1999Received: sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5) withSMTP idforrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 3 May 1999 Subject: Turning grips, part 2 A week or so ago I asked what the benefits were toturning a grip on the rod versus turning a grip on amandrel. I've since done both and here are myfindings: Turning a grip on a mandrel seemed safer to me atfirst. Since this was my first experience turning agrip, if I made a mess of it, I'd just take it off themandrel and turn another without having the problem ofgetting the glued cork rings off a rod. Turning on amandrel went well. The problems came about in tryingto bore the tapered hole to slide the grip on the rod.This was very slow going, even with a round taperedfile chucked into my lathe. I'd say it must have takenmore than an hour to get a good tight fit of the gripon the rod this way. Sliding the individual specie cork rings on rod numbertwo was breeze in comparison. Since the rings are onlyone-half inch in width, it is really easy to bore outthe hole and slide each ring up the blank so that itis just perfectly tight. Gluing the rings together andto the blank was a breeze also. The only small glitchcame when I attached my little compression gadget tosqueeze the corks together. I had aligned the lowestcork with a mark showing the location of the reelseat. When you attach the compression gadget, thecorks move together from both ends of your grip. Thegrip no longer lines up with the end of the reel seat.So, I had to take off the gadget, and push down thegrip enough to compensate for the compression. I'llknow this for next time. Eight hours later, once theglue was dry, I turned the grip. I'd say the entire job of turning the grip on the rodtook less than half the time of turning it on amandrel and then boring out the hole. Once one getsover the fear of turning a grip on a rod, there are noadvantages to turning a grip on a mandrel. Hope this helps some other beginner. Richard from anglport@con2.com Mon May 3 09:43:04 1999 Subject: Re: Turning grips, part 2 Richard,Next time you use the clamp, add a third "stop" to it. You want twosliders and one locked at the bottom. The bottom one has a detente, not ahole, so the butt doesn't slide/jump off the thing. The butt goes into thedetente, the lower clamper adjusts so it sits at the preset bottom markforthe grip, and the third (top) slider compresses down against the secondone. Clear?I use two, 18", 1/4 X 20 rods and a bunch of wing nuts; three pcs ofpineabout 5" X 2". Takes a minute or two to adjust when you change gripposition or length, but it works great!Art At 10:04 AM 5/3/99 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote:A week or so ago I asked what the benefits were toturning a grip on the rod versus turning a grip on amandrel. I've since done both and here are myfindings: Turning a grip on a mandrel seemed safer to me atfirst. Since this was my first experience turning agrip, if I made a mess of it, I'd just take it off themandrel and turn another without having the problem ofgetting the glued cork rings off a rod. Turning on amandrel went well. The problems came about in tryingto bore the tapered hole to slide the grip on the rod.This was very slow going, even with a round taperedfile chucked into my lathe. I'd say it must have takenmore than an hour to get a good tight fit of the gripon the rod this way. Sliding the individual specie cork rings on rod numbertwo was breeze in comparison. Since the rings are onlyone-half inch in width, it is really easy to bore outthe hole and slide each ring up the blank so that itis just perfectly tight. Gluing the rings together andto the blank was a breeze also. The only small glitchcame when I attached my little compression gadget tosqueeze the corks together. I had aligned the lowestcork with a mark showing the location of the reelseat. When you attach the compression gadget, thecorks move together from both ends of your grip. Thegrip no longer lines up with the end of the reel seat.So, I had to take off the gadget, and push down thegrip enough to compensate for the compression. I'llknow this for next time. Eight hours later, once theglue was dry, I turned the grip. I'd say the entire job of turning the grip on the rodtook less than half the time of turning it on amandrel and then boring out the hole. Once one getsover the fear of turning a grip on a rod, there are noadvantages to turning a grip on a mandrel. Hope this helps some other beginner. Richard from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Mon May 3 09:50:05 1999 sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5) withSMTP idforrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Mon, 3 May 1999 Subject: RE: Turning grips, part 2 Art, A brilliant idea. Guess I need to saw some longerthreaded rods. Many thanks, Richard -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:43 AM Subject: Re: Turning grips, part 2 Richard,Next time you use the clamp, add athird "stop" to it. You want twosliders and one locked at the bottom. Thebottom one has a detente, not ahole, so the butt doesn't slide/jump offthe thing. The butt goes into thedetente, the lower clamper adjusts so itsits at the preset bottom mark forthe grip, and the third (top) slidercompresses down against the secondone. Clear?I use two, 18", 1/4 X 20 rods and abunch of wing nuts; three pcs of pineabout 5" X 2". Takes a minute or two toadjust when you change gripposition or length, but it works great!Art At 10:04 AM 5/3/99 -0400, Richard Nantel wrote:A week or so ago I asked what the benefits were toturning a grip on the rod versus turning agrip on amandrel. I've since done both and here are myfindings: Turning a grip on a mandrel seemed safer to me atfirst. Since this was my first experience turning agrip, if I made a mess of it, I'd justtake it off themandrel and turn another without havingthe problem ofgetting the glued cork rings off a rod.Turning on amandrel went well. The problems came aboutin tryingto bore the tapered hole to slide the gripon the rod.This was very slow going, even with a round taperedfile chucked into my lathe. I'd say itmust have takenmore than an hour to get a good tight fitof the gripon the rod this way. Sliding the individual specie cork ringson rod numbertwo was breeze in comparison. Since therings are onlyone-half inch in width, it is really easyto bore outthe hole and slide each ring up the blankso that itis just perfectly tight. Gluing the ringstogether andto the blank was a breeze also. The onlysmall glitchcame when I attached my little compressiongadget tosqueeze the corks together. I had alignedthe lowestcork with a mark showing the location of the reelseat. When you attach the compression gadget, thecorks move together from both ends of yourgrip. Thegrip no longer lines up with the end ofthe reel seat.So, I had to take off the gadget, and push down thegrip enough to compensate for the compression. I'llknow this for next time. Eight hourslater, once theglue was dry, I turned the grip. I'd say the entire job of turning the gripon the rodtook less than half the time of turning it on amandrel and then boring out the hole. Once one getsover the fear of turning a grip on a rod,there are noadvantages to turning a grip on a mandrel. Hope this helps some other beginner. Richard from djk762@hotmail.com Mon May 3 10:16:37 1999 Mon, 03 May 1999 08:16:24 PDT Subject: West Coast Rodmakers Gathering Rodmakers, Is there an annual or bi-annual West Coast gathering of rodmakers? David KashubaFair Oaks, CA _______________________________________________________________Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 3 11:24:24 1999 via smap (4.1) 9:35:23 PDT Subject: RE: Calipers I've measured several production rods and often find differences of up to .005" or more. This was with varnish removed so it was an accurate measurement. The better ones cast great regardless. I suppose whetherthis amount of difference affects the rods intended action would largelydepend on whether it was in the tip or down near the cork. Maybe the discrepancy would produce a better casting rod, after all we're talking about a natural material that must have some variation from plant to plant. I think any hand planer could absolutely and consistently produce a rod within .001"of an inch tolerance along it's measurements, and so could a worn out, vibrating beveler for that matter. The question is how much block sanding and micing do you want to do to arrive at that perfection, and do you want to sacrifice power fibers in the process. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from rclarke@eou.edu Mon May 3 11:43:49 1999 09:59:57 -0700 "RODMAKERS@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: West Coast Rodmakers Gathering There is one scheduled for Troutdale, OR on May 22. Don't have more detail,but GaryLohencamp (sp?) has info on, and probabaly will reply. Robert Clarke -----Original Message----- Subject: West Coast Rodmakers Gathering Rodmakers, Is there an annual or bi-annual West Coast gathering of rodmakers? David KashubaFair Oaks, CA _______________________________________________________________Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com from harry37@epix.net Mon May 3 12:20:16 1999 SMTP idNAA11704 Subject: AIDS VIRUS I'm passing this along--I received it from the System administrator atwork. I guess it's for real. Either that, or it's a good commercial It made me update my virus scanner software today. Greg """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" This is VERY, VERY SERIOUS!! Please forwardit to everyone you know..they will be gratefulImportantThere is a virus out now being sent topeople via e- mail...it is called the A.I.D.S. VIRUS.It will destroy your memory, sound card and speakers,drive and it will infect your mouse or pointing deviceas well as your keyboards (possibly motherboards)making what you type not able to register on thescreen. It self terminates only after it eats 5MB ofhard drive space & will delete all programs.It will come via E-mail called "OPEN:VERY COOL! :) ". DELETE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! immediately!!It will basically render your computer useless.Please pass this on to everyone you know! PASS IT ON QUICKLY & TO AS MANY PEOPLEAS POSSIBLE from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Mon May 3 13:54:16 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) 0500 Subject: Cleaning Rod Bags Friends,I was talking with a friend today about the best way to cleanthe rod bag for an older rod I've just freshened up a bit. Thevarnish had begun to melt into the bag, but otherwise the bag isnearly new. How would you suggest cleaning the bag? Do I throwit in the washing machine, as my friend suggests? Or do I take itto the dry cleaners?All help appreciated,Harry from saltwein@swbell.net Mon May 3 16:59:36 1999 gw1.rcsntx.swbell.net QAA06608 Subject: test, no msg. test from TSmithwick@aol.com Mon May 3 17:13:20 1999 Subject: Removing a lathe chuck After a lot of searching, I finally found a used headstock Jacobs chuck for my old Atlas. It appears to be dead accurate. I mounted a piece ofcenterless ground rod and put an indicator on it and the needle never wiggled when I spun the lathe.It appears that someone used a pipe wrench a few times to remove thechuck from the spindle. That can't be good. What is the proper way to remove oneof these if it gets too snug? from HARMS1@prodigy.net Mon May 3 17:28:32 1999 Mon, 3 May 1999 18:26:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Calipers =_NextPart_000_01BE9592.186FDA60" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9592.186FDA60 You ask "how much block sanding and micing do you want do to arrive atthatperfection." For me, if I've set my forms accurately and planedcarefully, there is no "block sanding" at all. Actually, I'm not quitesure what you mean by "block sanding." When do you do this, and whywould you ever be removing power fibers in any case? Doesn't yourplaninggive you the dimensions you are after?The only sanding I do is to remove traces of glue and "ghost." As to production rods, well SURE, their dimensions are usually all OVERtheplace.That's why we hand plane rods ourselves -- because we CAN attain adegreeof perfection that no production rod can yield. How much do YOU want toput into a rod? That's pretty much an individual call, and we all do whatwe want to do. I like to shoot for tolerances of .001 from flat-to-flat,as well along the five-inch increments of my designs. And I'm glad I don'thave to support my family with my hobby. Even so, I don't believe I spendmore than, say 45-50 hours per rod, and that's probably pretty close towhat other makers invest. Cheers, Bill ----------From: mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Subject: RE: CalipersDate: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:19 AM I've measured several production rods and often find differences of up to .005" or more. This was with varnish removed so it was an accurate measurement. The better ones cast great regardless. I suppose whetherthis amount of difference affects the rods intended action would largelydepend on whether it was in the tip or down near the cork. Maybe thediscrepancy would produce a better casting rod, after all we're talking about anatural material that must have some variation from plant to plant. I think any hand planer could absolutely and consistently produce a rod within .001"of an inch tolerance along it's measurements, and so could a worn out, vibrating beveler for that matter. The question is how much blocksanding and micing do you want to do to arrive at that perfection, and do youwant to sacrifice power fibers in the process. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu------=_NextPart_000_01BE9592.186FDA60 You ask "how muchblock =sanding and micing do you want do to arrive at that perfection." = = give you the dimensions you are after?The only sanding I do is to = production rods, well SURE, their dimensions are usually all OVER the =place.That's why we hand plane rods ourselves -- because we CAN =attain a degree of perfection that no production rod can yield. = = shoot for tolerances of .001 from flat-to-flat, as well along the = more than, say 45-50 hours per rod, and that's probably pretty close to = = material that must have some variation from plant to plant. I think any = = mcdowellc@lanecc.edu ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9592.186FDA60-- from mcdowellc@lanecc.edu Mon May 3 17:56:23 1999 via smap (4.1) 16:08:10 PDT Subject: RE: Calipers Hi Bill, The sanding block I refer to is a flat, hard, rubber device that holds a sheet of sandpaper. It keeps the paper off the apex's. Maybe it has another name. I use it to remove glue residue after scraping. If the three measurements are not the same across the flats at aparticular point, and if a person wanted to bring the rod to within the same measurement across the three flats then you would have to sand through power fibers somewhere to reduce the larger cross sections. What I meant to convey is that if a rod was not equal across the three flats then further sanding and micing (and therefore time) could bring it to equality. Chrismcdowellc@lanecc.edu from anglport@con2.com Mon May 3 18:14:53 1999 Subject: Re: Removing a lathe chuck Tom,My SB has a groove machined into the body behind the body of thechuck.I've always stuck a 1 x 1 x 8" pc of oak or maple into that (tangantially,like a centerpunch or pin-punch) and whacked the end of the wood with amallet. Don't know if it's the recommended way, But I figure it can't doTOO much damage.If you get a better way and it comes privately, please forward it tome soI can be on the cutting edge, "bigger-hammer-wise" *G*.Art 06:11 PM 5/3/99 EDT, TSmithwick@aol.com wrote:After a lot of searching, I finally found a used headstock Jacobs chuck for my old Atlas. It appears to be dead accurate. I mounted a piece ofcenterless ground rod and put an indicator on it and the needle never wiggled when I spun the lathe.It appears that someone used a pipe wrench a few times to remove thechuck from the spindle. That can't be good. What is the proper way to removeoneof these if it gets too snug? from rmoon@ida.net Mon May 3 18:18:01 1999 Subject: Re: Removing a lathe chuck Tom I am no machinest, having had only two semesters of adult edmachine shop), but all I do is manually turn the chuck until the chuckkey hole is pointing at my belly button. Put the key in and hold thechuck with the left hand and give a sharp blow to the key with the righthand. It usually breaks it loose. Don't try to tighten it too tightwhen you put it on.Ralph from MFink96@aol.com Mon May 3 19:04:59 1999 Subject: Munro Rod Co. Dear List: Anyone know what happened to Jon Lintvet at Munro Rod Co.? I've beentrying to order an oven and a binding machine now for weeks but can't get areturned e-mail or phone call. Any recommendations for a pre-built oven and binder? Mike Fink from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Tue May 4 03:03:20 1999 Tue, 4 May 1999 16:00:23 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: AIDS VIRUS Greg & all concerned,Below is an exert from *a* list of hoaxes with details of this particularone.The list as well as the advise re. a virus being unable to affect hardwareis a bit out of date as I know some virus will overwrite some BIOS to thepoint of needing replacing, and there is also evidence of motherboardsbeing destroyed by some virus. Please note also that some of the virus hoaxes listed are hoaxes of realvirus, sort of an anti-virus/virus/virus as it were :-) On Mon, 3 May 1999 harry37@epix.net wrote: I'm passing this along--I received it from the System administrator atwork. I guess it's for real. Either that, or it's a good commercial It made me update my virus scanner software today. Greg /**************** exert from hoax list**************************/ Hoax List 90# Phone ScamA.I.D.S.AOL4.0AOL4FREE Trojan HorseAOL4FREE HoaxBadtimes (hoax parody)BuddyLst.ZIPBud Frogs Screen SaverDeeyendaDRUMMR1001/HIGHMAGE00Get More MoneyGood TimesGreat Gas OutIrinaIt Takes Guts to Say 'Jesus'Join the CrewPenpalPKZIP300Unable to DeliverWin A HolidayWindows Security Hole A.I.D.S. Hoax Original textThis is VERY SERIOUS!! Please forward it to everyone you know..theywill be grateful. There is a virus out now being sent to people via email...it is and speakers, hard drive and it will infect your mouse or pointing device..as well as your keyboards making what you type not able to register on the & will delete all programs. PASS IT ON QUICKLY & TO AS MANY PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE!! THANKS!! :-) CommentsThis is a basic hoax message, albeit one that does not attempt to cite anyexternalauthorities nor aspects thatdistinguish it.First, there is a real AIDS computer virus, a file infector strain, whichthereforecould spread via an e-mail Second, thedamage programs, much lessviruses, that Although it does notapply in thiscase, it is possible to scramble keyboard or mouse input (and there areviruses that dojustthat), but the damage is not physical nor permanent and can be correctedthrough virus Once again, there is no known mechanism where simply reading an e- mailmessageallows a virus to activate and perform any action, much less theimpossible onesmentioned in this message. /****************** end of exert*******************************/ Hey, I just thought of something. Maybe this list is just a hoax and allthese listed really *are* virus! Only joking......I hope. Tony """"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" Q. How many Microsoft personel does it take to change a light bulb? A. None. They change the new standard to "Darkness" Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from saltwein@swbell.net Tue May 4 06:48:15 1999 gw1.rcsntx.swbell.net GAA18705 Subject: Mica Strip I am looking for info on the Mica strip for Wayne's oven. Can anyonesend me the address and phone number of this company? TIA. Price? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from dickfuhrman@rheemote.com Tue May 4 07:48:14 1999 Subject: Mica Strip Steve,In the last issue of the Planing Form, Ron Barch said that he now has asource for 120 Volt, 650 Watt heaters that are 1.5" Wide by 54" Long.Contact Ron at (616) 945-2329.Dick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net SA>I am looking for info on the Mica strip for Wayne's oven. Can anyoneSA>send me the address and phone number of this company? TIA. Price? SA>Regards, SteveSA>Independence, MO from rambo2_98@yahoo.com Tue May 4 08:01:51 1999 1999 06:02:33 PDT Subject: i have mica strips I have mica strips as well if anyone is interested. Ihave the size for a Wayne style oven, or other sizesas well can be ordered if you want to build a largeroven for brown-toning culms for example. Just drop mean email off- list. Jeff Ramsey _________________________________________________________Do You Yahoo!?Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com from cattanac@wmis.net Tue May 4 09:48:42 1999 mail4.wmis.net (8.8.8/SCO5) with SMTP id KAA25523 for; Tue, 10:37:28 -0400 Subject: RE: Mica Strip A few years ago I worked with Dan of Grand Technologies - thecompany stocks themica strip heaters ($69.65) - thermostats ($48.70) - high temp wire. Theymoved a fewmonths ago - their new contact info is: Grand Technologies - 4513-CBroadmoor S. E. -Grand Rapids, MI 49503 - 616-656- 0866 ---------- Subject: Mica Strip I am looking for info on the Mica strip for Wayne's oven. Can anyonesend me the address and phone number of this company? TIA. Price? Regards, SteveIndependence, MO from brewer@teleport.com Tue May 4 12:00:24 1999 "hamachi"via SMTP by relay1.teleport.com, id smtpdAAA0IJXz3; Tue May 4 10:00:161999 Subject: RE: Munro Rod Co. I spoke with Jon about two weeks ago and he was in the process of moving.Iordered some planing forms and other misc. stuff and received everythingwith no problems. Randy Brewer -----Original Message----- MFink96@aol.com Subject: Munro Rod Co. Dear List: Anyone know what happened to Jon Lintvet at Munro Rod Co.? I've beentryingto order an oven and a binding machine now for weeks but can't get areturnede-mail or phone call. Any recommendations for a pre-built oven and binder? Mike Fink from BThoman@neonsoft.com Tue May 4 13:22:08 1999 Subject: Custom Wood Finish What is the dryer in varnish or other finishes? I'd like to make a finishbut have no idea what to add as a drying agent. Does anyone have 'secret'they're willing to part with? I'd like to use something that brings out thegrain in a reelseat insert without a varnish-like finish. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from dryfly@erols.com Tue May 4 13:30:25 1999 Subject: Munro Rod Co. Concerning Jon Lintvet: I spoke to Jon this morning and he is the middle of his finals and will bemoving May 17th. Bob from jczimny@dol.net Tue May 4 17:28:37 1999 Subject: Re: Custom Wood Finish Brian et al,The customary drier at present (since lead is now a no-no) is the evenmoretoxic cobalt oxides.You can get a bottle of it at your art supply store. A caution, if themixturein question already contains a drier, don't add any more. You can use it todryalmost any drying oil.John Z "Thoman, Brian" wrote: What is the dryer in varnish or other finishes? I'd like to make a finishbut have no idea what to add as a drying agent. Does anyone have 'secret'they're willing to part with? I'd like to use something that brings outthegrain in a reelseat insert without a varnish-like finish. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 from LECLAIR123@aol.com Tue May 4 19:09:49 1999 Subject: Re: Removing a lathe chuck Tom,Place a piece of hardwood against one of the jaws andgive it a sharp blow with a hammer. This will break it loose from the head stock. Be careful when unscrewing the chuck off of the spindle, they are heavy and if you aren't holdingon to it good and your hand is under it, you will have a sorehand when it falls. Dave L. from saltwein@swbell.net Tue May 4 19:17:08 1999 gw3.rcsntx.swbell.net TAA19423 Subject: Mica Strip - Thanks Hey Guys, I really appreciate all of the good info. This will get me off andrunning. Thanks again, Steve from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Tue May 4 23:10:05 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Wed, 5 May 1999 04:09:33 +0000 Subject: Re: Cleaning Rod Bags Harry, If there is no printing and the cloth seems sound, there shouldn't be aproblem in laundering the bag (I've done it). Alas, I've also done it witha Heddon bag with a tag that was professionally printed (nothandwritten)...those things aren't colorfast! It came out lily white. As for dry cleaning, I'd really be careful. The chemicals are really hardon fabrics...they say that a suit can only take about 10-15 dry cleaningsand that fabric is thick (and new). If you're really concerned, you might want to hand wash in Woolite. Good luck,George Bourke -----Original Message----- Subject: Cleaning Rod Bags Friends,I was talking with a friend today about the best way to cleanthe rod bag for an older rod I've just freshened up a bit. Thevarnish had begun to melt into the bag, but otherwise the bag isnearly new. How would you suggest cleaning the bag? Do I throwit in the washing machine, as my friend suggests? Or do I take itto the dry cleaners?All help appreciated,Harry from dickay@alltel.net Wed May 5 05:50:37 1999 FAA22971; Subject: Re: Removing a lathe chuck Tom,Dave is correct about protecting your hand when removing a lathe chuck. Ihave a friend who damaged the nerves in his hand while removing a lathechuck. It did just as Dave said and fell. He bruised his hand against thebed. Has only partial feeling in his hand now. He has made a cradle out oftwo by material that slides under the chuck to catch it and it allows it tobe slid out where it can be picked up properly. The cradle also helps inreinstalling the chuck. Just a hint.Dick Fuhrmandickay@alltel.net ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Removing a lathe chuck Tom,Place a piece of hardwood against one of the jaws andgive it a sharp blow with a hammer. This will break it loose from the head stock. Be careful when unscrewing the chuckoff of the spindle, they are heavy and if you aren't holdingon to it good and your hand is under it, you will have a sorehand when it falls. Dave L. from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed May 5 08:57:08 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Wed, 5 May 1999 08:56:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Cleaning Rod Bags Thanks to George and others who responded. The bag is a Heddon withhandprinted information. I'm going to take it to the dry cleaners, point outthe handwriting, and make the owner pay the bill. Can't be more than adollaror two.Thanks again for the help,Harry irish-george wrote: Harry, If there is no printing and the cloth seems sound, there shouldn't be aproblem in laundering the bag (I've done it). Alas, I've also done it witha Heddon bag with a tag that was professionally printed (nothandwritten)...those things aren't colorfast! It came out lily white. As for dry cleaning, I'd really be careful. The chemicals are really hardon fabrics...they say that a suit can only take about 10-15 dry cleaningsand that fabric is thick (and new). If you're really concerned, you might want to hand wash in Woolite. Good luck,George Bourke -----Original Message-----From: Harry Boyd Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:00 PMSubject: Cleaning Rod Bags Friends,I was talking with a friend today about the best way to cleanthe rod bag for an older rod I've just freshened up a bit. Thevarnish had begun to melt into the bag, but otherwise the bag isnearly new. How would you suggest cleaning the bag? Do I throwit in the washing machine, as my friend suggests? Or do I take itto the dry cleaners?All help appreciated,Harry from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed May 5 09:05:41 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) 0500 Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Brian,You'll find the 2 weight taper in this one.Harry WayneCatt@aol.com wrote: The following is a work up of a series of tapers based on the 7' Sir Dfavorite. I have stretched the stress graph to develope a 7' 6" andshortedit to accomodate a 6' 3" after the curves were developed they were ranthrough Hexrod to create dimensions for #2 - #3 - #4 weight rods inboth 2 &3 piece rods. The stress curves are as follows: 65" action length tip - 452505 - 21195010 - 27175015 - 21887520 - 17287525 - 15915030 - 14725035 - 12692540 - 11040045 - 12130050 - 13490055 - 11727560 - 11687565 - 101050 80" action lengthtip - 452505 - 21195010 - 27175015 - 21887520 - 17287525 - 16345030 - 15250035 - 14700040 - 14265045 - 12692550 - 11040055 - 12130060 - 13490065 - 11772570 - 11727575 - 11687580 - 101050 To maintain the full character the peaks and valleys were moved totheclosest 5" increment that is why several stress values are the same. 6' 3" #2 tip -.054 .05405 .056 .05610 .066 .06615 .083 .08320 .101 .10125 .114 .11430 .126 .12835 .143 .14740 .162 .16545 .170 .17250 .176 .17755 .197 .19860 .210 .21265 .233 .23670 .233 .23675 .233 .236 6' 3" #3 tip .061 .06105 .063 .06310 .074 .07415 .092 .09220 .112 .11225 .126 .12630 .139 .14135 .157 .16140 .178 .18245 .186 .18850 .192 .19355 .214 .21660 .228 .23065 .253 .25670 .253 .25675 .253 .256 6' 3" #4 tip .066 .06605 .068 .06810 .080 .08015 .099 .09920 .120 .12025 .135 .13530 .149 .15235 .168 .17240 .189 .19445 .198 .20050 .204 .20655 .227 .23060 .241 .24565 .267 .27270 .267 .27275 .267 .272 7' 6" #2 tip .054 .05405 .056 .05610 .066 .06615 .083 .08320 .101 .10125 .113 .11330 .125 .12535 .136 .13840 .147 .15045 .164 .16750 .185 .18755 .192 .19360 .196 .19765 .219 .21970 .232 .23375 .245 .24780 .271 .27385 .271 .27390 .271 .273 7' 6" #3 tip .061 .06105 .063 .06310 .074 .07415 .092 .09220 .112 .11225 .124 .12430 .138 .13835 .150 .15240 .162 .16545 .179 .18350 .202 .20455 .209 .21060 .214 .21565 .237 .23870 .251 .25375 .264 .26780 .291 .29585 .291 .29590 .291 .295 7' 6" #4tip .066 .06605 .068 .06810 .080 .08015 .099 .09920 .119 .11925 .133 .13330 .148 .14835 .160 .16240 .172 .17545 .190 .19550 .214 .21755 .221 .22360 .226 .22765 .251 .25270 .265 .26775 .279 .28180 .307 .31085 .307 .31090 .307 .310 The narrowness between the 2 and 3 piece dimensions reflect somefinetuning I have done on the ferrule weights that I am using.What will perhaps shock a few - I have never fished the 7' #4. I madeone,I have lawn cast a couple and I was going to fish it. But as we weresuitingup at the Broomhead Bridge on the N. Branch of the Boardman I set therodcase on top of my Jimmy. The horror was when the rod case fell off theroof.Falling into pure sand the rod case split in half and took the rod with it.Never use highly burled walnut in a wooden rod case. Ron glued the case -itbroke in two again as I lifted it up. The rod was beyond repair - Ron justshrugged his shoulders - not responsible. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed May 5 09:15:51 1999 sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5) withSMTP idforrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 5 May 1999 Subject: Building up blank for reel seat The reel seat insert for one of my rods is bored alittle too big. What is the best way to build up theblank to get a snug fit? Masking tape? String? Thanks in advance, Richard from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed May 5 09:26:06 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) 0500 Subject: Two dilemmas, one ethical Friends,Two dilemmas. First, I've just finished the cane work on aLeonard 50DF taper. Many of you know that I have long held thisrod in high regard since it was my introduction to real bamboo.It was great to see in the current issue of BFR that StuartKirkfield thinks highly enough of the same rod to write awonderfully romantic piece.Here's the dilemma: I want to finish this rod out as close toa Leonard as I can. I've got the correct ferrules, but need areel seat similar in style to those of Leonard, and don't knowexactly what to look for other than a butternut spacer. Anysuggestions? Also, did Leonard's use that very small cigar gripas a standard? The rod will be very clearly marked as my own, sono one will ever confuse it with the real thing. I'm not tryingto make a counterfeit, just a good copy. Any and all help isappreciated. Second, I just accidently re-posted some of St. Wayne's tapersto the list without asking him first, thus clogging the archives.Should I apologize to the list, thus wasting even more space? Orto Jerry for cluttering the archives? Or just to Wayne? Wow,maybe I just did all three!! Harry from Anachemrpo@aol.com Wed May 5 09:38:53 1999 Subject: Re: Leonard specs. was Two dilemmas, An e-mail or Fax to Len Codella will tell you what this rod had for components and features.e-mail: len@codella.comFax: 352-637-5420 He just had a new catalog come out, so it may take a while to get arepsonse to this type of inquiry. He was kind enough to give me complete details(via Fax inquiry) a couple of years ago on how to finish out a Leonard blank Ihad acquired so that it was a replica. Russ from FISHWOOL@aol.com Wed May 5 09:54:45 1999 Subject: Re: Gaining converts Reed,It looks like you're ruining another "frp" user again. Shame on you. Look what happened to me-I bought a Montague for $14.95 in the late 40's andhave been going downhill ever since. Regards, Hank from FISHWOOL@aol.com Wed May 5 09:59:49 1999 Subject: Re: RE: Turning grips, part 2 To all,As I don't have a lathe I use a mounted hand drill and a couple of Dale Clemens' ball bearing sets to do my grips on the rods. I mount both corkand reel seat so the cork compresses against the reel seat and mask thereel seat when turning the cork-also I slip a piece of fiberglass or graphite tubing over the cane just in front of the cork. FWIWHank. from cattanac@wmis.net Wed May 5 10:35:33 1999 mail4.wmis.net (8.8.8/SCO5) with SMTP id LAA09003 for; Wed, 11:24:15 -0400 Subject: ethical/Grayrock Harry -No apology needed - when I post something to the list it is intendedto bepublic and for public reuse.Secondly - for the past couple weeks I have been working on awebsite - Grayrock- which will include a discussion web as well - that is why I pulled theprogramdownload(NT vs UNIX server - different address). The intent is that thiswould create apost area for information and planning on Grayrock 99 - without pluggingthe archives ofthis list. Seeing that this is the 5th many have thought that there shouldbe specialevents - a party - with such games as pin the tail on the trout - party hatsand noisemakers - a balloon shaping contest - the closest to a trout - the closestto a Hex - theclosest to a TroutBum - the winners will recieve a Hostess TwinkiesBesides the party planning we need to know the interest for bulkpurchases - REC- Bellinger - Demarest - will be represented - the invitation is open forothersuppliers as well.So in the next couple of days check -http://members.wmis.net/cattanac/ - if youget an error then I have failed again to get the site running - otherwise itshould beself instructingAnd another thing Harry, have been working on a more believablekidnap note - Inow realize that if Radical Michigan TroutBum Terrorist and fishing forone's freedomare mentioned that she won't believe it.---------- Subject: Two dilemmas, one ethical Friends,Two dilemmas. First, I've just finished the cane work on aLeonard 50DF taper. Many of you know that I have long held thisrod in high regard since it was my introduction to real bamboo.It was great to see in the current issue of BFR that StuartKirkfield thinks highly enough of the same rod to write awonderfully romantic piece.Here's the dilemma: I want to finish this rod out as close toa Leonard as I can. I've got the correct ferrules, but need areel seat similar in style to those of Leonard, and don't knowexactly what to look for other than a butternut spacer. Anysuggestions? Also, did Leonard's use that very small cigar gripas a standard? The rod will be very clearly marked as my own, sono one will ever confuse it with the real thing. I'm not tryingto make a counterfeit, just a good copy. Any and all help isappreciated. Second, I just accidently re-posted some of St. Wayne's tapersto the list without asking him first, thus clogging the archives.Should I apologize to the list, thus wasting even more space? Orto Jerry for cluttering the archives? Or just to Wayne? Wow,maybe I just did all three!! Harry from SalarFly@aol.com Wed May 5 11:03:28 1999 Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have been searching formy copy of the series, but have been unable to find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curve explanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also, and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handle section and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives, but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Wed May 5 11:16:52 1999 199916:15:29 UT 16-1998)) id86256768.00592822 ; Wed, 5 May 1999 11:13:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many of us have learned the hard way.Thatis, these little machines are rather efficient at helping us comunicatewitheach other, are extremely efficient at producing paper, and veryunpredictableotherwise. They are not good storage devices. Personally, when anythingcomesacross that I want to save, I print it out and file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magnetic particles embedded in silicon. Therewas anews report on the ABC Evening News just last night about our currenthistorybeing lost in fifteen or twenty years because PC's go obsolete or crash,takingall manner of records with them. The claim was that, in 30 years, thehistory ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/ obtainable than history of the1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have been searching formy copy of the series, but have been unable to find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curve explanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also, and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives, but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Wed May 5 12:56:00 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id MAA12017 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) withSMTP id MAA06722 for ; Wed, 5 May 1999 Subject: Stress-ed Out (fwd) Here is Darryl's original stress curve tutorial. You might wantto check the archives for follow-ups.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot- warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Subject: Stress-ed Out In it's most basic use a stress curve shows you how closea split cane rod is to breaking with the weight and lengthof line you specified. Garrison believed 200,000 ouncesper square inch was a good, safe upper level. In reality you can go up to 220,000 or 230,000 without any problems. Garrison himself went up to 220,000 on his lighter rods.Garrison believed that below the 140,000 point the bamboo stopped flexing. As you get deeper into stress curves you can begin to pick out certaincharacteristics that tell you what kind of action the rod has, or will have if it hasn't been made yet. A Garrison rod, which I consider to be slow, has a well rounded "hump" near the tip and a fairly slow drop off as it goes towards the handle. Let's see if I can do this with ASCII art. || * * | * * *| * * *| * * * | * *| * | *| *| *| *| *_*______________________________________________ The rod that I'm always raving about, the Cattanach 7' 0"4 wt, I consider to be fairly fast. It has a stress curve like this: || * | * *| * * | * * | * * | * * *| * * * * *| *| *| *| *_*______________________________________________ The blip near the handle is the Cattanach hinge, and it greatly enhances roll casting. Don't forget to put it in. I did and the rod I made was a terrible roll caster. It isn't as necessary on longer rods, but on shorter rods it's definitely needed. A Paul Young Para 15, what is described as a parabolic action looks like this: || * * * *| * * * *| * * * *| * * * *| * * * *| *| *| *| *| *_*______________________________________________ Looking at this rod, and never having cast one, I would guess that it would feel fairly slow, due to the enhanced bending near the handle, but able to throw a lot of line, due to the stiff mid section. I would also guess that it could roll cast really well. There are as many variations of stress curves as there are rodmakers. This covers the slow, fast and parabolic actions. Sir Darryl from mevans@acxiom.com Wed May 5 13:34:48 1999 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all too obvious suggestion to make thearduous task ofbacking up our systems more tolerable. (Most of us do our taxes moreoften that we dobackups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup your entire hard drive, only yourdocuments, whichprobably take up well under 5 percent of your system. You can re-installsoftware fromthe original package (you did buy it right?!!). 2) Instead of spreading documents and data files all over the hard drive,placeeverything that is data (documents, spread sheets, etc.) in folders under asingleparent folder (directory). Don't put anything under there that you canreinstall orre-download. Then just back up the parent folder and all of its sub-folders. Youbackups will be small. In my case, which includes all my day job fodder,my data isonly 3 percent of my total disk usage. At home it is probably well under 1percent.3) If you have a need to backup large software files, e.g. internetdownloads, do it ina one time step and separate it from regular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folder and include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details ... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful offloppies ... -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many of us have learned the hard way.Thatis, these little machines are rather efficient at helping us comunicatewitheach other, are extremely efficient at producing paper, and veryunpredictableotherwise. They are not good storage devices. Personally, when anythingcomesacross that I want to save, I print it out and file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magnetic particles embedded in silicon. Therewas anews report on the ABC Evening News just last night about our currenthistorybeing lost in fifteen or twenty years because PC's go obsolete or crash,takingall manner of records with them. The claim was that, in 30 years, thehistory ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/ obtainable than history of the1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have been searching formy copy of the series, but have been unable to find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curve explanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also, and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives, but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed May 5 13:54:34 1999 sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5) withSMTP idforrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 5 May 1999 Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Mark, Your backup tips are excellent. The problem remains,though, that all those 1.44 MB diskettes to which youare presently backing your data to will be obsolete in20 years (so will CD-ROMS, Zzip drives, etc). So, Ed'spoint that recent history could be lost in a few yearsis valid. Few machines will remain that support theseformats. Richard (who recently threw out about 100 5.25'floppy' disks containing old backups) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of mevans - MarkEvansSent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:35 PM Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy BackupSuggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all tooobvious suggestion to make the arduous taskof backing up our systems more tolerable.(Most of us do our taxes more often that wedo backups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup yourentire hard drive, only your documents,which probably take up well under 5 percentof your system. You can re-installsoftware from the original package (you didbuy it right?!!).2) Instead of spreading documents and datafiles all over the hard drive, placeeverything that is data (documents, spreadsheets, etc.) in folders under a singleparent folder (directory). Don't putanything under there that you can reinstallor re- download. Then just back up theparent folder and all of its sub-folders.You backups will be small. In my case,which includes all my day job fodder, mydata is only 3 percent of my total diskusage. At home it is probably well under 1 percent.3) If you have a need to backup largesoftware files, e.g. internet downloads, doit in a one time step and separate it fromregular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folderand include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful of floppies ... -----Original Message-----From: Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:13 AM Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many ofus have learned the hard way. Thatis, these little machines are ratherefficient at helping us comunicate witheach other, are extremely efficient atproducing paper, and very unpredictableotherwise. They are not good storagedevices. Personally, when anything comesacross that I want to save, I print it outand file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magneticparticles embedded in silicon. There was anews report on the ABC Evening News justlast night about our current historybeing lost in fifteen or twenty yearsbecause PC's go obsolete or crash, takingall manner of records with them. The claimwas that, in 30 years, the history ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/obtainable than history of the 1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have beensearching formy copy of the series, but have been unableto find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curveexplanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also,and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives,but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from mevans@acxiom.com Wed May 5 14:20:34 1999 (5.5.2448.0) mevans - Mark Evans ,rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion You bet ... Media is a problem. I've had floppies go bad in a matter ofmonths. Ithink main thing is to get the problem down to a manageable size ... andjust makeregular backups. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Mark, Your backup tips are excellent. The problem remains,though, that all those 1.44 MB diskettes to which youare presently backing your data to will be obsolete in20 years (so will CD-ROMS, Zzip drives, etc). So, Ed'spoint that recent history could be lost in a few yearsis valid. Few machines will remain that support theseformats. Richard (who recently threw out about 100 5.25'floppy' disks containing old backups) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of mevans - MarkEvansSent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:35 PM Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy BackupSuggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all tooobvious suggestion to make the arduous taskof backing up our systems more tolerable.(Most of us do our taxes more often that wedo backups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup yourentire hard drive, only your documents,which probably take up well under 5 percentof your system. You can re-installsoftware from the original package (you didbuy it right?!!).2) Instead of spreading documents and datafiles all over the hard drive, placeeverything that is data (documents, spreadsheets, etc.) in folders under a singleparent folder (directory). Don't putanything under there that you can reinstallor re- download. Then just back up theparent folder and all of its sub-folders.You backups will be small. In my case,which includes all my day job fodder, mydata is only 3 percent of my total diskusage. At home it is probably well under 1 percent.3) If you have a need to backup largesoftware files, e.g. internet downloads, doit in a one time step and separate it fromregular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folderand include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful of floppies ... -----Original Message-----From: Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:13 AM Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many ofus have learned the hard way. Thatis, these little machines are ratherefficient at helping us comunicate witheach other, are extremely efficient atproducing paper, and very unpredictableotherwise. They are not good storagedevices. Personally, when anything comesacross that I want to save, I print it outand file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magneticparticles embedded in silicon. There was anews report on the ABC Evening News justlast night about our current historybeing lost in fifteen or twenty yearsbecause PC's go obsolete or crash, takingall manner of records with them. The claimwas that, in 30 years, the history ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/obtainable than history of the 1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have beensearching formy copy of the series, but have been unableto find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curveexplanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also,and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives,but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from mevans@acxiom.com Wed May 5 14:24:29 1999 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion BTW - I was thinking more of hard drive crashes than the longevity ofelectronic media. Enough of this .... I need to make a backup. -----Original Message----- Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Mark, Your backup tips are excellent. The problem remains,though, that all those 1.44 MB diskettes to which youare presently backing your data to will be obsolete in20 years (so will CD-ROMS, Zzip drives, etc). So, Ed'spoint that recent history could be lost in a few yearsis valid. Few machines will remain that support theseformats. Richard (who recently threw out about 100 5.25'floppy' disks containing old backups) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of mevans - MarkEvansSent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:35 PM Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy BackupSuggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all tooobvious suggestion to make the arduous taskof backing up our systems more tolerable.(Most of us do our taxes more often that wedo backups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup yourentire hard drive, only your documents,which probably take up well under 5 percentof your system. You can re-installsoftware from the original package (you didbuy it right?!!).2) Instead of spreading documents and datafiles all over the hard drive, placeeverything that is data (documents, spreadsheets, etc.) in folders under a singleparent folder (directory). Don't putanything under there that you can reinstallor re- download. Then just back up theparent folder and all of its sub-folders.You backups will be small. In my case,which includes all my day job fodder, mydata is only 3 percent of my total diskusage. At home it is probably well under 1 percent.3) If you have a need to backup largesoftware files, e.g. internet downloads, doit in a one time step and separate it fromregular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folderand include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful of floppies ... -----Original Message-----From: Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:13 AM Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many ofus have learned the hard way. Thatis, these little machines are ratherefficient at helping us comunicate witheach other, are extremely efficient atproducing paper, and very unpredictableotherwise. They are not good storagedevices. Personally, when anything comesacross that I want to save, I print it outand file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magneticparticles embedded in silicon. There was anews report on the ABC Evening News justlast night about our current historybeing lost in fifteen or twenty yearsbecause PC's go obsolete or crash, takingall manner of records with them. The claimwas that, in 30 years, the history ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/obtainable than history of the 1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have beensearching formy copy of the series, but have been unableto find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curveexplanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also,and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives,but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from HARMS1@prodigy.net Wed May 5 15:19:32 1999 Wed, 5 May 1999 16:19:09 -0400 Subject: Re: Custom Wood Finish =_NextPart_000_01BE9712.9A7336C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9712.9A7336C0 Brian, I have had excellent results for this kind of in-the-wood finish by usingMinwax "Antique Oil Finish." It comes in a bright red, pint-size can. You can either fill the open grain (if walnut, cherry, etc.) or not,depending on what kind of effect you are after. When I first fill thegrain, I simply brush on three coats of ordinary fast-drying poly, let eachcoat dry for a day and then sand it right back to the wood surface, leavingno varnish except for what has soaked INTO the wood and/or filled thegrain. If you need to repeat this process, go ahead and brush on a couplemore coats and sand them back also. When you've filled the grain and sanded back to the wood, you only need tofollow the instructions on the can of Minwax, wiping on (and then wipingoff) a couple coats of the oil finish. Let the second coat dry forseveral days before mounting hardware, etc. I use this process whencustom finishing gunstocks, and the results are really wonderful. If youdon't want to fill the grain, you will need to rub on three or four coatsof the oil finish--wiping each one out well. Cheers, Bill ----------From: J. C. Zimny Cc: 'Rodmakers' Subject: Re: Custom Wood FinishDate: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 3:20 PM Brian et al,The customary drier at present (since lead is now a no-no) is the evenmoretoxic cobalt oxides.You can get a bottle of it at your art supply store. A caution, if themixturein question already contains a drier, don't add any more. You can use itto dryalmost any drying oil.John Z "Thoman, Brian" wrote: What is the dryer in varnish or other finishes? I'd like to make afinishbut have no idea what to add as a drying agent. Does anyone have'secret'they're willing to part with? I'd like to use something that bringsout thegrain in a reelseat insert without a varnish-like finish. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9712.9A7336C0 Brian,I have had =excellent results for this kind of in-the-wood finish by using Minwax = walnut, cherry, etc.) or not, depending on what kind of effect you are = of ordinary fast-drying poly, let each coat dry for a day and then sand =it right back to the wood surface, leaving no varnish except for what = repeat this process, go ahead and brush on a couple more coats and sand =them back also.When you've filled the grain and sanded back to =the wood, you only need to follow the instructions on the can of Minwax, =wiping on (and then wiping off) a couple coats of the oil finish. = to fill the grain, you will need to rub on three or four coats of the = = in question already contains a drier, don't add any more. You can use it = = ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9712.9A7336C0-- from DARRELLL@earthlink.net Wed May 5 16:19:17 1999 Subject: Varnish staining boundary="=PMail:=_0004@@3j9KdHBfB4x0E41lSTZ9" --=PMail:=_0004@@3j9KdHBfB4x0E41lSTZ9 Hello all, I have a couple of rods that have a section or two that could stand tobe stripped and revarnished. However, the varnish is very dark and ifI revarnished it with the standard spar varnish, it would no doubt comeout way too light compared to the other sections... Has anyone tried to add a stain to darken the varnish and then apply...I have only found poly with stain mixed, no luck finding a spar varnish... Darrell L. = --=PMail:=_0004@@3j9KdHBfB4x0E41lSTZ9-- from thardy@foxinternet.net Wed May 5 16:30:12 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) 0700 Subject: Resin Finish Could anyone please explain resin finishes to a newguy? It sounds like a kind of surface impregnation, isit hand rubbed? Easy to do? etc. Are there specialrequirements for the guide wraps? I suppose they wouldbe done after the blank was finished?Thanks,Tom Hardy from jczimny@dol.net Wed May 5 17:15:13 1999 -0400 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: RE: Varnish staining You can tint varnish with any dye or stain that is oil soluble. Most woodworkingcatalogs sell it.John Z -----Original Message----- Subject: Varnish staining Hello all, I have a couple of rods that have a section or two that could stand tobe stripped and revarnished. However, the varnish is very dark and ifI revarnished it with the standard spar varnish, it would no doubt comeout way too light compared to the other sections... Has anyone tried to add a stain to darken the varnish and then apply...I have only found poly with stain mixed, no luck finding a spar varnish... Darrell L. from brookie@frii.com Wed May 5 18:33:39 1999 Subject: New Respect for Time Spent Building RodM List : Well, I have been trying for four days now to get back to calipering andmeasuring a couple of rods. Like probably most of you, I have fulltimejob, family, friends, odds and ends going on in the 24 hour day. I'm beginning to realize though that the stories you all would tell aboutHOW you 'fit' cane building into your schedules, could in itself becomefodder for yet another book on cane building. You must be single, or havevery understanding family, stay up all night, get up early in the a.m.and/or work weekends. When do you have time to fish *G* ? This is more than a love, this IS a passion, an addiction almost ... yes / no ? The problem I'm faced with too -- I get home, think about calipering, thethought overwhelms me, I have a glass of chardonnay and lose all abilitiesto caliper. I should think very few rodmakers drink ! thoughts bouncing,SUEColorado, the northern tier from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Wed May 5 18:51:08 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Wed, 5 May 1999 18:51:04 -0500 "rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu" Subject: Re: New Respect for Time Spent Building Yes Sue,You're absolutely right. Very few rodmakers drink. And it is worse thanapassion, beyond addiction. It is an obsession. It'll probably be in DSMbefore you know it. I've been thinking of starting a Twelve Step Group - "Rodmakers Anonymous." Can you here it? "Hi, I'm Harry - I tried to be a rodmaker for three years, but I quit,cold- turkey.""Hi Harry." Only trouble is, who's going to be our Bill W.? Harry from LECLAIR123@aol.com Wed May 5 18:55:45 1999 Subject: Re: Building up blank for reel seat In a message dated 5/5/99 7:23:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: Richard,The best way is with masking tape. 1/2in. widein three or four places, spaced evenly. Dave L. from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed May 5 19:27:00 1999 sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5) withSMTP idforrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Wed, 5 May 1999 Subject: Building up blank for reel seat, Part 2 Thanks to all who responded to my post earlier today.The answers were mostly split between masking tape andstring to build up the butt diameter. One experiencedlist member suggested building up the butt with bamboosplittings then turning down on a lathe. A couple of list members suggested I use dry wall meshtape. I found a roll at my local hardware store andpicked it up mostly out of curiosity. Very cool stuff.It is a thin mesh like a fishing fishing net, eachsquare hole being about 1/16 inch in size. The tape isadhesive on one side and is about 2 inches wide.What's nice about it is that it is VERY light, muchlighter than masking tape. Two to three turns are allthat is necessary to build up the diameter. The gluecan easily penetrate the mesh to set everything up. There must be some fly tying use for this stuff. Richard from hexagon@odyssee.net Wed May 5 20:09:35 1999 Subject: Re: New Respect for Time Spent Building Rodmakers don't drink? I can remember a gathering back in the old days inHarrisburgh, before it got all serious and computery, the group wasdrinking from 5pm until they closed the bar.Those were innocent times. Was any one else there beside John Zimny onthelist? ( he is the only guy I can remember)Terry Ackland"Sue K." wrote: RodM List : Well, I have been trying for four days now to get back to calipering andmeasuring a couple of rods. Like probably most of you, I have fulltimejob, family, friends, odds and ends going on in the 24 hour day. I'm beginning to realize though that the stories you all would tell aboutHOW you 'fit' cane building into your schedules, could in itself becomefodder for yet another book on cane building. You must be single, or havevery understanding family, stay up all night, get up early in the a.m.and/or work weekends. When do you have time to fish *G* ? This is more than a love, this IS a passion, an addiction almost ... yes / no ? The problem I'm faced with too -- I get home, think about calipering, thethought overwhelms me, I have a glass of chardonnay and lose allabilitiesto caliper. I should think very few rodmakers drink ! thoughts bouncing,SUEColorado, the northern tier from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Wed May 5 23:08:10 1999 (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id EAA70096 for; Thu, 6 May 199904:08:06 GMT Subject: Tung/Varnish/Urethane I have been trying some combinations of finishes because I noted in theArchives reference to non-compatability of some of them. I wonder ifanyone has long-term use or recommendations on the following.Base Behr Tung Oil finish - 600 natural clearFinish Behr Super Exterior/Interior Spar Varnish - clear satin(green/yellow can)orFinish Minwax Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane - Clear I have applied 4 coats of tung oil on test pieces (6" long, untaperedhex pieces, sanded as per final rod)& dipped 2 coats of each finishovertop. I have seen no wierd reactions yet! test pieces have been outside for 10days (snow, rain, sun etc.). I will be brushing on finish when I settleon one, if this makes any difference.ThanksCraig from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu May 6 02:24:08 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Thu, 6 May 1999 07:23:35 +0000 Subject: Re: Leonard specs. was Two dilemmas, You just need to alternate who you ask...Martin Keane is a very nice guy,too (and very knowledgeable) and HE DOESN'T HAVE A NEW CATALOG OUTRIGHTNOW! George Bourke -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: Leonard specs. was Two dilemmas, An e-mail or Fax to Len Codella will tell you what this rod had forcomponents and features.e-mail: len@codella.comFax: 352-637-5420 He just had a new catalog come out, so it may take a while to get arepsonseto this type of inquiry. He was kind enough to give me complete details(viaFax inquiry) a couple of years ago on how to finish out a Leonard blank Ihadacquired so that it was a replica. Russ from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu May 6 02:28:58 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Thu, 6 May 1999 07:28:26 +0000 Subject: Re: Turning grips, part 2 A much cheaper alternative to a metal lathe (if you just want to do grips,and maybe, bowls, etc.) would be the cheapest Delta woodworking lathe (atHome Depot, etc.)...it has a bore through the spindle and an available 3 Jawlathe chuck...combo, including stand, would be in the $450 price range(new)if Northern CA prices are indicative of the rest of the country. You couldalso use it for fitting ferrules. George Bourke -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Turning grips, part 2 To all,As I don't have a lathe I use a mounted hand drill and a couple of DaleClemens' ball bearing sets to do my grips on the rods. I mount both corkandreel seat so the cork compresses against the reel seat and mask the reelseatwhen turning the cork-also I slip a piece of fiberglass or graphite tubingover the cane just in front of the cork. FWIWHank. from irish-george@worldnet.att.net Thu May 6 02:36:12 1999 (InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Thu, 6 May 1999 07:35:39 +0000 Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion You may be surprised at what is still running out there. Up until 2 yearsago I still had a computer running (and the 1MB of RAM in it cost me $6k),that could read 8" SS/SD or SS/DD floppies! And a local companyspecializesin keeping equipment about 10 years older than that running!But, I DO agree...you wouldn't want to DEPEND on that occurring. George Bourke-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Mark, Your backup tips are excellent. The problem remains,though, that all those 1.44 MB diskettes to which youare presently backing your data to will be obsolete in20 years (so will CD-ROMS, Zzip drives, etc). So, Ed'spoint that recent history could be lost in a few yearsis valid. Few machines will remain that support theseformats. Richard (who recently threw out about 100 5.25'floppy' disks containing old backups) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of mevans - MarkEvansSent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:35 PM Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy BackupSuggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all tooobvious suggestion to make the arduous taskof backing up our systems more tolerable.(Most of us do our taxes more often that wedo backups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup yourentire hard drive, only your documents,which probably take up well under 5 percentof your system. You can re-installsoftware from the original package (you didbuy it right?!!).2) Instead of spreading documents and datafiles all over the hard drive, placeeverything that is data (documents, spreadsheets, etc.) in folders under a singleparent folder (directory). Don't putanything under there that you can reinstallor re- download. Then just back up theparent folder and all of its sub-folders.You backups will be small. In my case,which includes all my day job fodder, mydata is only 3 percent of my total diskusage. At home it is probably well under 1 percent.3) If you have a need to backup largesoftware files, e.g. internet downloads, doit in a one time step and separate it fromregular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folderand include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful of floppies ... -----Original Message-----From: Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:13 AM Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many ofus have learned the hard way. Thatis, these little machines are ratherefficient at helping us comunicate witheach other, are extremely efficient atproducing paper, and very unpredictableotherwise. They are not good storagedevices. Personally, when anything comesacross that I want to save, I print it outand file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magneticparticles embedded in silicon. There was anews report on the ABC Evening News justlast night about our current historybeing lost in fifteen or twenty yearsbecause PC's go obsolete or crash, takingall manner of records with them. The claim>> was that, in 30 years, thehistory ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/obtainable than history of the 1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have beensearching formy copy of the series, but have been unableto find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curveexplanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also,and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives,but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from jwt4639@ritvax.isc.rit.edu Thu May 6 06:27:36 1999 with ESMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; Thu, 6 May 1999 07:27:32 EDT Subject: Re: New Respect for Time Spent Building Terry,I can see a reason for why rodmakers do not drink. I have a bunch of goodflytying friends who when they get together to fish and bond as the nightprogressesand the single malt flows freely the flies they tye start gettingsmaller(28-32). bamboo rods ofvarious slim tapers around.Jim T TERENCE ACKLAND wrote: Rodmakers don't drink? I can remember a gathering back in the old daysinHarrisburgh, before it got all serious and computery, the group wasdrinking from 5pm until they closed the bar.Those were innocent times. Was any one else there beside John Zimny onthelist? ( he is the only guy I can remember)Terry Ackland"Sue K." wrote: RodM List : Well, I have been trying for four days now to get back to calipering andmeasuring a couple of rods. Like probably most of you, I have fulltimejob, family, friends, odds and ends going on in the 24 hour day. I'm beginning to realize though that the stories you all would tell aboutHOW you 'fit' cane building into your schedules, could in itself becomefodder for yet another book on cane building. You must be single, orhavevery understanding family, stay up all night, get up early in the a.m.and/or work weekends. When do you have time to fish *G* ? This is more than a love, this IS a passion, an addiction almost ... yes / no ? The problem I'm faced with too -- I get home, think about calipering,thethought overwhelms me, I have a glass of chardonnay and lose allabilitiesto caliper. I should think very few rodmakers drink ! thoughts bouncing,SUEColorado, the northern tier from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu May 6 08:25:32 1999 GAA11135; (5.5.2407.0) "'DARRELLL@earthlink.net'" Subject: RE: Varnish staining the varnish we used at the violin shop I worked at was Behlen Bros. and wemixed anilinedye into the varnish to get the color we wanted. If you stain the wood orbamboo and geta scratch you cant hide it because the edges of the scratch will be darkerif you try tostain the scratch, but if the color is in the finish all you have to do istouch up thefinish. ----------From: Darrell Lee[SMTP:DARRELLL@earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:19 AM Subject: Varnish staining Hello all, I have a couple of rods that have a section or two that could stand tobe stripped and revarnished. However, the varnish is very dark and ifI revarnished it with the standard spar varnish, it would no doubt comeout way too light compared to the other sections... Has anyone tried to add a stain to darken the varnish and then apply...I have only found poly with stain mixed, no luck finding a spar varnish... Darrell L. from Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Thu May 6 08:35:18 1999 199913:33:53 UT 16-1998)) id86256769.004A59F7 ; Thu, 6 May 1999 08:32:06 -0500 Subject: Re: New Respect for Time Spent Building Sue, Don't think. Like Maverick said in TopGun, "If you think, you're dead." Best regards,-Ed Estlow "Sue K." on 05/05/99 06:32:51 PM Please respond to brookie@frii.com cc: Subject: New Respect for Time Spent Building RodM List : Well, I have been trying for four days now to get back to calipering andmeasuring a couple of rods. Like probably most of you, I have fulltimejob, family, friends, odds and ends going on in the 24 hour day. I'm beginning to realize though that the stories you all would tell aboutHOW you 'fit' cane building into your schedules, could in itself becomefodder for yet another book on cane building. You must be single, or havevery understanding family, stay up all night, get up early in the a.m.and/or work weekends. When do you have time to fish *G* ? This is more than a love, this IS a passion, an addiction almost ... yes / no ? The problem I'm faced with too -- I get home, think about calipering, thethought overwhelms me, I have a glass of chardonnay and lose all abilitiesto caliper. I should think very few rodmakers drink ! thoughts bouncing,SUEColorado, the northern tier from jimgentz@earthlink.net Thu May 6 08:47:22 1999 GAA02424; "'DARRELLL@earthlink.net'" Subject: Re: Varnish staining Does aniline dye come in colors? It seems the older the rods are, thedarker the varnishis? Thanks, Jim Coffey, Patrick W wrote: the varnish we used at the violin shop I worked at was Behlen Bros. andwe mixedaniline dye into the varnish to get the color we wanted. If you stain thewood or bambooand get a scratch you cant hide it because the edges of the scratch will bedarker ifyou try to stain the scratch, but if the color is in the finish all you have todo istouch up the finish. ----------From: Darrell Lee[SMTP:DARRELLL@earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:19 AM Subject: Varnish staining Hello all, I have a couple of rods that have a section or two that could stand tobe stripped and revarnished. However, the varnish is very dark and ifI revarnished it with the standard spar varnish, it would no doubt comeout way too light compared to the other sections... Has anyone tried to add a stain to darken the varnish and then apply...I have only found poly with stain mixed, no luck finding a spar varnish... Darrell L. from Patrick.Coffey@PSS.Boeing.com Thu May 6 08:56:41 1999 GAA06641; (5.5.2407.0) "'DARRELLL@earthlink.net'" Subject: RE: Varnish staining aniline dye comes in a multitude of colors and you can mix and match toyour heartscontent. It comes as either a powder, water of solvent soluble, or apowder. We stainedthe wood with yellow mixed with gesso and then added a red to thevarnish and got abeautiful cinnamon colored finish. ----------From: Jim Gentz[SMTP:jimgentz@earthlink.net]Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 6:50 AM Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu; 'DARRELLL@earthlink.net'Subject: Re: Varnish staining Does aniline dye come in colors? It seems the older the rods are, thedarker thevarnish is? Thanks, Jim Coffey, Patrick W wrote: the varnish we used at the violin shop I worked at was Behlen Bros. andwe mixedaniline dye into the varnish to get the color we wanted. If you stain thewood or bambooand get a scratch you cant hide it because the edges of the scratch will bedarker ifyou try to stain the scratch, but if the color is in the finish all you have todo istouch up the finish. ----------From: Darrell Lee[SMTP:DARRELLL@earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:19 AM Subject: Varnish staining Hello all, I have a couple of rods that have a section or two that could stand tobe stripped and revarnished. However, the varnish is very dark and ifI revarnished it with the standard spar varnish, it would no doubtcomeout way too light compared to the other sections... Has anyone tried to add a stain to darken the varnish and then apply...I have only found poly with stain mixed, no luck finding a sparvarnish... Darrell L. from mevans@acxiom.com Thu May 6 09:44:39 1999 (5.5.2448.0) Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion To be honest - I think CBS was irresponsible in their reporting. Part ofthe reason forthe Y2K scare is there are 30 year old assembly language programs, whichwere built onmachines that did not last 5 years, still running on machines that are 2years old. Wehave them here at Acxiom (running next to bleeding edge Unix clusters.) CBS's erroneousassumption is that machines just wear out and with them goes the data. After 20yrs in the Information Systems business, my NSHO is that moreinformation wasnever known about the civil war than will be lost concerning the last halfof thisdecade. Digital technology (numbers) don't fade - paper does. We updateour hardwaremore often than our cars - transferring the info. Commercial repositoriesare carefullybacked up, etc ... CBS seems to be continuing a long tradition of marketing the news. I didnot see thereport, but it sounds like the spin may have been more important thanfacts. Yesinformation will be lost, but its a pimple on a gnat's butt compared to thevastmultimedia repository that will be retained - when compared to previousperiods. What I do believe is that it is a good reminder for the personal computeruser is toback up our own "stuff" so that when (not if) our system crashes, we cankeep going.Especially when digital cameras place our family memories on a disk! -----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.eduSubject: Re: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion You may be surprised at what is still running out there. Up until 2 yearsago I still had a computer running (and the 1MB of RAM in it cost me $6k),that could read 8" SS/SD or SS/DD floppies! And a local companyspecializesin keeping equipment about 10 years older than that running!But, I DO agree...you wouldn't want to DEPEND on that occurring. George Bourke-----Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion Mark, Your backup tips are excellent. The problem remains,though, that all those 1.44 MB diskettes to which youare presently backing your data to will be obsolete in20 years (so will CD-ROMS, Zzip drives, etc). So, Ed'spoint that recent history could be lost in a few yearsis valid. Few machines will remain that support theseformats. Richard (who recently threw out about 100 5.25'floppy' disks containing old backups) -----Original Message-----From: owner-rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Behalf Of mevans - MarkEvansSent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:35 PM Subject: RE: Data Retrieval, - Easy BackupSuggestion Off subject ...A few years ago, a friend made an all tooobvious suggestion to make the arduous taskof backing up our systems more tolerable.(Most of us do our taxes more often that wedo backups!) 1)You probably don't need to backup yourentire hard drive, only your documents,which probably take up well under 5 percentof your system. You can re-installsoftware from the original package (you didbuy it right?!!).2) Instead of spreading documents and datafiles all over the hard drive, placeeverything that is data (documents, spreadsheets, etc.) in folders under a singleparent folder (directory). Don't putanything under there that you can reinstallor re- download. Then just back up theparent folder and all of its sub-folders.You backups will be small. In my case,which includes all my day job fodder, mydata is only 3 percent of my total diskusage. At home it is probably well under 1 percent.3) If you have a need to backup largesoftware files, e.g. internet downloads, doit in a one time step and separate it fromregular archives of your documents. Of course, if you can use a zip program, that helps. It could look something like this: C:\data\c:\data\rodmakingc:\data\rodmaking\tapersc:\data\rodmaking\planingc:\data\rodmaking\sourcesc:\data\taxes\1998... Then just backup the "data" parent folderand include all of the sub-folders. Don'tworry about the rest - it's just details... ! I'll be most can back up to ahnadful of floppies ... -----Original Message-----From: Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:13 AM Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, was The Sir D Series To the List: Darryl brings up a good point that many ofus have learned the hard way. Thatis, these little machines are ratherefficient at helping us comunicate witheach other, are extremely efficient atproducing paper, and very unpredictableotherwise. They are not good storagedevices. Personally, when anything comesacross that I want to save, I print it outand file it. That's not foolproofeither, but it's better than magneticparticles embedded in silicon. There was anews report on the ABC Evening News justlast night about our current historybeing lost in fifteen or twenty yearsbecause PC's go obsolete or crash, takingall manner of records with them. The claimwas that, in 30 years, the history ofthe Civil War will be more accessible/obtainable than history of the 1990's dueto this phenomenon. Caveat emptor,-Ed Estlow SalarFly@aol.com on 05/05/99 10:59:53 AM Please respond to SalarFly@aol.com cc: Subject: Re: The Sir D Series Thank you for reposting this. I have beensearching formy copy of the series, but have been unableto find it.I suffered a hard disk crash last summer and it musthave gotten lost then. I am printing out a hard copyand filing it away in a safe place. If you also happen to have the stress curveexplanationcan you repost it also? It is lost also,and I have beenhaving many requests to send it again. One little caution on the 6' 3" three piece tapers.The bottom ferrule falls right in the hinge area,effectively negating the benefits of the hinge.Move the hinge 5 inches down into the handlesection and it will roll cast nicely. Of course all of this is in the archives,but I haven'tgotten around to searching them yet.Darryl from Canerods@aol.com Thu May 6 10:07:11 1999 Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion In a message dated 5/6/99 12:42:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time, irish- george@worldnet.att.net writes: You may be surprised at what is still running out there. Up until 2 yearsago I still had a computer running (and the 1MB of RAM in it cost me$6k),that could read 8" SS/SD or SS/DD floppies! And a local company specializesin keeping equipment about 10 years older than that running!But, I DO agree...you wouldn't want to DEPEND on that occurring. George Bourke George, Could I have the name of that company - I've got disk controller failures in my two S-100 Z80 CPU CPM2.2 boat-anchor computers. But I sure wouldlike to boot one up and retrieve some data off a couple of disks before givingthem a "float" test. Don Burns from angelruten@smile.ch Thu May 6 12:33:11 1999 Subject: Fly reel boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_000B_01BE97F7.46469660";type="multipart/alternative" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE97F7.46469660 boundary="----=_NextPart_001_000C_01BE97F7.464FBE20" ------=_NextPart_001_000C_01BE97F7.464FBE20 Dear friends anybody knows a reel in the same design/optic for less bucks? Thanks in advance Stefan S. Grau`s *atelier edelweiss*Seftigenstr. 20 CH-3007 BernTel/Fax: 0041 (0) 31 372 91 85, ab 19.00 / from 7.pm CET-mail: atelier: angelruten@smile.chprivat: fishing@freesurf.ch Internet: http://members.tripod.com/Bamboorods/default.htmhttp://bamboorods.hypermart.net S. Grau`s atelier edelweiss Seftigenstr. 20 3007 Bern/Switzerland Phone/Fax: 0041 (0) 31 372 91 85 Ab 19.00 / from 7.pm CET Leading swiss manufacterer in split cane rods since 1994. Member Rodmakers Listserve ------=_NextPart_001_000C_01BE97F7.464FBE20 unter Dear friends anybody knows a reel in the same design/optic for less bucks? Thanks in advance Stefan S. Grau`s *atelier edelweiss*Seftigenstr. 20 CH-3007 BernTel/Fax: 0041 (0) 31 372 91 85, ab 19.00 / from = Internet: http://members.= http://bamboorods.hypermart.ne=t S. Grau`s atelier edelweissSeftigenstr. 203007 Bern/SwitzerlandPhone/Fax: 0041 (0) 31 372 91 85Ab 19.00 / from 7.pm CETLeading swiss manufacterer in split cane rodssince 1994. Listserve ------=_NextPart_001_000C_01BE97F7.464FBE20-- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE97F7.46469660 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 ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE97F7.46469660-- from SalarFly@aol.com Thu May 6 13:48:52 1999 Subject: Laminated Plane Irons Our friend from the reversed seasons - Tony Young - hasalways highly recommended Japanese made laminatedplane irons. The only problem was getting them to fitthe Record or Stanley 9 1/2 planes. I just saw them in the new Woodcraft catalog on page 2A. $29.99 (US) each. Darryl from chris@artistree.com Thu May 6 14:16:34 1999 Subject: Re: Data Retrieval, - Easy Backup Suggestion I have a feeling that a more real problem will be being able tointerpret that information in the future.-- Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com mevans - Mark Evans wrote:....Yes information will be lost, but its a pimple on a gnat's buttcompared to the vast multimedia repository that will be retained - whencompared to previous periods. from fiveside@net-gate.com Thu May 6 18:11:50 1999 ns1.net-gate.com (8.8.3/8.7.3) with SMTP id TAA09086 for; Subject: Re: Signs To the List,Judging from the responses to my original message the various states havea checkerboard pattern of stream ident signs on bridges. Some do, somedon't. Guess the Interstate Bureaucracy hasn't standardized this item yet.Maybe this could be looked into by somebody like TU. To me it would beniceto know what stream I'm crossing. Judging by the abundant number, signsmuchbe cheap. Bill from cbogart@shentel.net Thu May 6 18:36:31 1999 mtiwmhc06.worldnet.att.net(InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Thu, 6 May 1999 23:35:59 +0000 "SalarFly@aol.com" Subject: Re: Laminated Plane Irons Darryl They are listed in the web site: www.woodcraft.com justfollow the trail to planes and then plane irons. Chris On Thu, 6 May 1999 14:47:19 EDT, SalarFly@aol.com wrote: Our friend from the reversed seasons - Tony Young - hasalways highly recommended Japanese made laminatedplane irons. The only problem was getting them to fitthe Record or Stanley 9 1/2 planes. I just saw them in the new Woodcraft catalog on page 2A. $29.99 (US) each. Darryl from mcs@fastlane.net Thu May 6 18:41:47 1999 Subject: Re: Hexrod Is this site going to be back up any time? Is there another URL for Hexrod? At 07:21 AM 4/30/99 -0700, you wrote:Can anyone tell me how to get an updated copy of hexrod? I have goneto the site recommended by the archives, but there is not a path to hexrod at that address. I must be missing something. I am usinghttp://cyber.wmis.net/~cattanac/ to get to the site, but I find nothingafter this point.Thanks, Jim from maxs@geocities.co.jp Thu May 6 19:20:17 1999 bysv01.geocities.co.jp (8.9.3+3.2W/3.7W) with ESMTP id JAA15801 for; Fri, 7 May 1999 09:20:13 +0900 (JST) mail.geocities.co.jp (1.3G-8.9.3/GeocitiesJ-3.0) with ESMTP id JAA19740for; Fri, 7 May 1999 09:20:12 +0900 (JST) Subject: Quality of Cork Hello, Is there any criteria to know to which grade a cork ring belongs by justlooking at it? How does FIVE STAR quality look like?Any advice is appreciated. Max -- Max Satohan Oriental Bamboo Fly Rod Crafteremail: maxs@geocities.co.jpHome Page:http://www.geocities.co.jp/Colosseum- Acropolis/2169http://members.tripod.com/~maxrod from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Thu May 6 21:54:52 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Subject: Re: Laminated Plane Irons Darryl, Chris, list;Along a similar line, listmember Jerry Quinn (whose emailaddress I seem to have misplaced) mentioned a few months ago that hefound a machine shop with a suitable process for brazing carbide tothe business end of a plane iron, and made that knowledge availableto several of us. I sent Jerry two plane irons to which had addedcarbide and I've been pleased with them.Sharpening the carbide takes some effort. I use diamond pasteon a leather wheel, ala Tom Smithwick and George Barnes. Once youget that carbide sharp, it stays sharp for a long, long time. Yousharpen once every few rods, rather than every strip or two. Nokidding, on the grooved sole plane I use for 80% of my planing, Iplaned 42 strips to within .010", and the blade was still cuttingnicely. Of course that blade never touches the forms.I remove the last .010" with a flat soled plane, and touch it upon the leather wheel after every section (6 strips). It drags onthe form on almost every pass, and small half-moon chips are knockedout of the more brittle carbide blade once in a while.Last I heard from Jerry, he was trying to get another batch ofblades ready to go. At about $30-35 per blade, it might be worthyour while if you're already set up to sharpen carbide. Harry from gl@msrr.dmso.mil Fri May 7 07:08:14 1999 triton.dmso.mil(8.8.5/8.7.3) with SMTP id IAA27241 for ;Fri, 7 May 1999 Subject: planing steel while awaiting the arrival of my planing form, i've been working onsplicing. the surface of the splicing block has become quite chewed up. ami doing something wrong? can i expect this to happen to my planing formaswell?----- --------------------------------------------------------Gary L. Misch, Systems Engineer, AB Technologies, Inc.Alexandria, VA 22311, vox 703-575-1094, fax 703-998-1625 from cattanac@wmis.net Fri May 7 07:42:10 1999 mail4.wmis.net (8.8.8/SCO5) with SMTP id IAA04416 for; Fri, 08:30:52 -0400 Subject: GrayChat/Hexrod98 To initiate a discussion group (GrayChat) - my provider had to movemy site fromtheir Unix server to a NT server so my site address is now: http://members.wmis.net/cattanac. I got the chat running this morningand will haveHexrod98 available at this location is a day or so. Sorry for anyinconvience Wayne from SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us Fri May 7 08:19:12 1999 Subject: stress curves Thanks to whoever it was who re-posted Darryl's stress curve tutorial.After reading this and Wayne's essay on rod design, I think I begin tounderstand this a bit better. It seems as if the stress curve is, afterall, a decent tool for describing certain things that make a rod behave theway it does. The problem I still have, is that we don't seem to have anydetailed explanation for why a given rod has certain uniquecharacteristics.Here's what I mean: if you think about what a fly rod basically does, whichis to throw line, it appears that the only really important factor is themotion of the tip, because that is the point at which the energy of the rodis passed to the line. And all the tip does is move back and forth in ashallow arc in a plane. So anything that happens south of the tip isirrelevant. By this token, you could cast perfectly well using anunmodified 3/4 inch pine dowel, so long as you could get it to move at thetip the way a fly rod's tip moves. But this is obviously either altogetherfalse or a gross oversimplification, as demonstrated by such a thing asthehinge, which has a discernable impact upon the ability of a rod to roll cast(not to mention the difficulty of casting with a dowel!). What I want toknow is, why? Why does a sudden (albeit subtle) increase/decrease in thesteepness of the taper somewhere about fifteen inches south of the tipmakea difference, if all that matters is the tip's acceleration/decelerationback and forth? Do we really understand the mechanics of casting? Anyengineers out there want to tackle this (so to speak)? from Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Fri May 7 08:56:21 1999 199913:54:54 UT 16-1998)) id8625676A.004C4A3E ; Fri, 7 May 1999 08:53:17 -0500 Subject: Re: stress curves I'm sure Darryl will want to chime in - he has an excellent practical wayofunderstanding and presenting all of this. However, I would point out that "everything that happens south of the tip"isnot irrelevant. It's what's happening there that causes the tip to move thewayit does. "The way it does" includes the path the tip takes through space aswellas the velocity and acceleration. The flexing of the rod, the loading, can bethought of as loading a spring. That's why a bow and arrow cast works. Thereason it doesn't work better is that there is no additional forwardvelocity ofthe whole rod (mathematically, the velocities add). The hinge simplymakes therod flex more down in the butt section and thus load a bit more for arelativelysmall input force, as in roll casting where one doesn't have the luxury of afull back cast and subsequent forward cast to fully load the rod. There is a link on Jerry's website for The Physics of Flycasting. I don'tbelieve it's still active, but I'm not sure. I printed it out a couple of yearsago. In order to really understand what's going on, one needs to know a lotofhigher level math, that is, partial differential equations. Basically, mostofthese are unsolvable, except by numerical methods, which are onlyapproximations. Great for a hobby, but pretty impractical. The abovementionedPhysics of Flycasting was a grad student's doctoral thesis, if I remembercorrectly. One can get quite close enough with something like HEXROD androdmakers intuition. Hope this helps.Best regards,-Ed EstlowRecovering Engineer Seth Steinzor on 05/07/99 08:22:11 AM Please respond to SSteinzor@atg.state.vt.us cc: Subject: stress curves Thanks to whoever it was who re-posted Darryl's stress curve tutorial.After reading this and Wayne's essay on rod design, I think I begin tounderstand this a bit better. It seems as if the stress curve is, afterall, a decent tool for describing certain things that make a rod behave theway it does. The problem I still have, is that we don't seem to have anydetailed explanation for why a given rod has certain uniquecharacteristics.Here's what I mean: if you think about what a fly rod basically does, whichis to throw line, it appears that the only really important factor is themotion of the tip, because that is the point at which the energy of the rodis passed to the line. And all the tip does is move back and forth in ashallow arc in a plane. So anything that happens south of the tip isirrelevant. By this token, you could cast perfectly well using anunmodified 3/4 inch pine dowel, so long as you could get it to move at thetip the way a fly rod's tip moves. But this is obviously either altogetherfalse or a gross oversimplification, as demonstrated by such a thing asthehinge, which has a discernable impact upon the ability of a rod to roll cast(not to mention the difficulty of casting with a dowel!). What I want toknow is, why? Why does a sudden (albeit subtle) increase/decrease in thesteepness of the taper somewhere about fifteen inches south of the tipmakea difference, if all that matters is the tip's acceleration/decelerationback and forth? Do we really understand the mechanics of casting? Anyengineers out there want to tackle this (so to speak)? from iank@nelson.planet.org.nz Fri May 7 14:48:23 1999 sage.ts.co.nz with SMTP id HAA12556 for ;Sat, 8 May 199907:48:15 +1200 Subject: Southern hemisphere gathering This meeting has been confirmed for the first weekend in November . Those who have indicated that they are interested should have recievedsomeinformation by snail mail by now , or in the next day or so . If any oneelse is interested in recieving some information just let me know . I thought the following quotation from one of the guide informationbookletsmight interest some of you . "Although the waterways of the South Island are well stocked( all wildbreed) with brown trout , visiting anglers should realise that they arehardto catch and that four fish per day is a typical result . They should notexpect to catch large trout , over 5 lb , with any degree of regularityeither , the average will be around 1.3 kg or 3 lb . " regards Iank from RHD360@Maine.Maine.Edu Fri May 7 15:13:08 1999 MAINE.maine.edu (IBM VM SMTPLevel 310) via TCP with SMTP ; Fri, 07 May 1999 16:10:42 EDT Subject: Virginia I am hoping some of you folks might be of help. I have an job interview atVirginia Tech in Blacksburg comming up. It looks like a great opportunity,lots more do-re-me and so on. The question is what's the fishing likethere?? I really don't want to live anywhere where I can't fish at leastonce a week. So, I would appreciate hearing from someone from the area.Please contact off list or call. Thanks (and for those of you for whomthis is irrelevant, please excuse.) --Bob.Robert M. Milardo, Ph.D.17 Merrill Hall Univ. of MaineOrono, ME 04469207 581-3128 from rcurry@ttlc.net Fri May 7 19:34:34 1999 (SMTPD32-5.01) id A6DC201A00EA; Fri, 07 May 1999 20:35:40 EDT Subject: Re: Gaining converts Hank,Yeah, it's a crime. He'll be found in a vacant lot in Central Valley, N.Y.,in a few years, licking the dust outside the old Leonard plant.See you in Grayling.Best regards,Reed FISHWOOL@aol.com wrote: Reed,It looks like you're ruining another "frp" user again. Shame on you. Lookwhat happened to me-I bought a Montague for $14.95 in the late 40's andhavebeen going downhill ever since.Regards, Hank from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Sat May 8 04:10:41 1999 Sat, 8 May 1999 16:21:58 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: Southern hemisphere gathering Ian,I received mine yesterday. You've done an excellent job with the infopackage. Tony On Sat, 8 May 1999, Ian Kearney wrote: This meeting has been confirmed for the first weekend in November . Those who have indicated that they are interested should have recievedsomeinformation by snail mail by now , or in the next day or so . If any oneelse is interested in recieving some information just let me know . I thought the following quotation from one of the guide informationbookletsmight interest some of you . "Although the waterways of the South Island are well stocked( all wildbreed) with brown trout , visiting anglers should realise that they arehardto catch and that four fish per day is a typical result . They should notexpect to catch large trout , over 5 lb , with any degree of regularityeither , the average will be around 1.3 kg or 3 lb . " regards Iank /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many Microsoft personel does it take to change a light bulb? A. None. They change the new standard to "Darkness" Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from rcurry@ttlc.net Sat May 8 08:49:07 1999 (SMTPD32-5.01) id A117224600A2; Sat, 08 May 1999 09:50:15 EDT Subject: Re: Treating Grips Chris,Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I've found that an excellent treatment is theapplication of a mixture of fish-slime, sweat ( from fear of losing thedonor of thefish-slime), fly-floatant, line-dressing, and tears. Apply this liberally atleastthirty times a year and the rod will be better for it every year; so willyou.Best regards,Reed Chris Wohlford wrote: I've used Baby Oil and have heard of Tung Oil being used toprotect/treat newly formed grips. Was wondering if anyone had any othersuggestions? Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com from gjflyfsh@juno.com Sat May 8 20:15:31 1999 21:14:38 EDT Subject: Test Only from saltwein@swbell.net Sun May 9 06:22:23 1999 gw3.rcsntx.swbell.net GAA13157 Subject: test from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Sun May 9 10:52:53 1999 out4.ibm.net (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id PAA185472 for;Sun, 9 May 1999 15:52:49 GMT Subject: Which Half Mon May 10 11:57:37 1999 Anybody have experience or info on building say a 2 piece 7' from onlytop (lots of power fibre) or only bottom of a culm, i.e. is itstiffer/softer building only with 1/2 of culm? I have more bottoms thantops so wondering if I can put them to use (I will be doing the nodething).ThanksCraig from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Sun May 9 13:11:40 1999 Internet MailServer sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Sun, Subject: My first rod I fished my first completed cane rod yesterday, builton a PHY Para 15 taper. What a joy! The rod's actionis smooth and powerful, able to make long casts eveninto the wind. I caught two 14-inch browns and abeautiful brook trout. Many thanks to the dozens ofgenerous builders who helped me get to this point overthe past few months. A few special thanks are in orderto Terry, Chris, Dave, Russ, and Brian. Richard from Anachemrpo@aol.com Sun May 9 13:54:25 1999 Subject: Re: My first rod Rciahrd, Yeehaaa!Way to go, Richard!Congratulations. Russ from dellc@nextdim.com Sun May 9 15:16:21 1999 (SMTPD32-4.06) id ABA615900114; Sun, 09 May 1999 13:10:14 PST Subject: Re: My first rod We never said it would be easy, but it wasn't as hard as you thought wasit.Now you are on your way. Nothing like the first fish on your first rod.DellDell & Marie Coppock"The Flyfisher & the Quilter"http://www.trwebsites.com/dell/e-mail flyfisher@nextdim.com----- Original Message----- rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu Subject: Re: My first rod Rciahrd, Yeehaaa!Way to go, Richard!Congratulations. Russ from fbcwin@fsbnet.com Sun May 9 16:29:27 1999 (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c) Sun, 9 May 1999 16:29:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Which Half Craig,If there is adequate power fiber for the size strips you are making,then it doesn't matter if they are the top or bottom half of the culm. Ifthere aren't adequate power fibers, still doesn't matter.Time to do a little measuring and checking. You can almost always usethe bottom of the culm for both butts and tips. But the closer nodespacing makes the bottom of the culm more difficult to work with. To getboth tips and butts from the top half of the culm, I've read of some makerswho use the butt strips backwards so that the thickest powers are neartheferrule.Ray Gould and George Maurer have quite a bit to say about getting themost out of a culm. I'm about to decide that for me, one rod per culm isplenty. Cane is cheap, compared to my free time.Harry Craig Naldrett wrote: Anybody have experience or info on building say a 2 piece 7' from onlytop (lots of power fibre) or only bottom of a culm, i.e. is itstiffer/softer building only with 1/2 of culm? I have more bottoms thantops so wondering if I can put them to use (I will be doing the nodething).ThanksCraig from brookie@frii.com Sun May 9 18:57:19 1999 Subject: it's a test, right ? of patience ! chuckling here ... okay Wayne, I'm not THAT bright, but not THAT stupid (grin ) , but I'll be danged ... your new website with the GrayRockdiscussion area is a mystery to me ! give us the working-website url again that we can register and get intoyour discussion website location ? you are not going to hold the fact that I never got the second cane mic- edagainst me are ya ? by the by, my favorite cane has not been mic-ed. Ihad to return the calipers to the machinist. I have decided instead to aska cane building friend to do the honors this summer when he heads up here from Florida. I dropped him an email and mentioned I might want areplicamade and " ... could he be prepared to measure my cane ... " suecolorado from anglport@con2.com Sun May 9 20:56:36 1999 Subject: Re: it's a test, right ? of patience ! Sue, " ... could he be prepared to measure my cane ... " Sounds like something they could have done WONDERS with on Laugh-In!!!!So I think that way.... so shoot me!Art At 05:56 PM 5/9/99 -0600, Sue K. wrote: chuckling here ... okay Wayne, I'm not THAT bright, but not THAT stupid (grin ) , but I'll be danged ... your new website with the GrayRockdiscussion area is a mystery to me ! give us the working-website url again that we can register and get intoyour discussion website location ? you are not going to hold the fact that I never got the second cane mic- edagainst me are ya ? by the by, my favorite cane has not been mic-ed. Ihad to return the calipers to the machinist. I have decided instead to aska cane building friend to do the honors this summer when he heads uphere from Florida. I dropped him an email and mentioned I might want areplicamade and " ... could he be prepared to measure my cane ... " suecolorado from utzerath@execpc.com Mon May 10 06:04:03 1999 0500 Subject: Nodeless questions? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9AAA.B6012A00" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9AAA.B6012A00 The archives are very helpful and CB's update really got me convinced. =However I still have questions about nodeless construction before I get =started splicing. What is the street wisdom about heat treating before versus after = If you heat treat before, how close to the final maximum width can you =safely split? (It looks like Garrison added 1/3 but this partially =allows for HT shrinkage.) What is the current thinking about the "sanding disk" method? (I =purchased a 10" disk from Wood Worker's Supply that fits on a table saw =and seems very precise. I am working on an adjustable jig that slides =in the saw's miter groove. The advantage I expect is that the disk can =be set up to rotate directly into the fibers at the point of the scarf =and reduce tear-out for either right or left hand bevels. Shouldn't =this work as well as a beat-up splicing block?) ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9AAA.B6012A00 The archives are very helpful and= construction before I get started splicing. What is the street wisdom about heat treatingbefore = If you heat treat before, how close to the final = allows for HT shrinkage.) What is the current thinking about the "sanding= Worker's = expect is that the disk can be set up to rotate directly into the fibers = block?) ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9AAA.B6012A00-- from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Mon May 10 09:12:06 1999 with ESMTP idOAA189948 for ; Mon, 10 May 199914:11:56 GMT Subject: DH 7' 4wt Looking at building Darryl H's modification of Cattanach 7'0" 2 piece, 4wt. I understand from archives that the taper is as per pg. 225 &increase stations at 5, 10 15" by .002" (i.e. will be .072, .084, .104but tip stays at .068. Am I reading this correctly or do increases intaper start at 0" station, anybody who has built this comments please.CheersCraig from fcaruso@caraustar.com Mon May 10 09:46:47 1999 7720 ; Mon, 10 May1999 10:45:34 5 E (IBM VM SMTP V2R4a)via TCP with SMTP ; Mon, 10 May 1999 10:44:55 0 E 23-1999)) id8525676D.0050BE48 ; Mon, 10 May 1999 10:41:55 -0400 Subject: Ruben Barkley A friend fished a Ruben Barkley 7' 3pc rod this weekend. He believes thathe wasa west coast maker who made salmon rods but also made a few troutmodels. Myfriend believes that he died in the 50's. Does anyone have any information about this maker and his tapers? Frank from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Mon May 10 10:03:44 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id KAA27422 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) withSMTP id KAA12374 for ; Mon, 10 May 1999 Subject: Re: Nodeless questions? Jim, I think cane splits better after heat treating. Here is my method,worked out by trial and error (mostly error): Don't try cutting too close to the nodes; even if the cane looks fine it will have some crooked "grain" near the node and when you splitthe strips they will have a little dog-leg bend at the end. Plan on loosing an inch on each side of the node. I split each intra-nodal section in two before heat treating, and markthe inside using an art marker with a fine nib at one end and a widenib at the other. The section at the small end of the culm gets 1 thinstripe, next section gets 2, etc. The wide mark is a 5. Etc. Try toheat treat all the sections, even if it is more than you think you willneed, lengthwise. You might need it. I've got a coffee can full of nails & screws for balast, with a bungee cord knotted around it. I slip the half section under the cord to hold it vertical, and mark around the top using a flexible plastic ruler anda pencil. I use 1/4 inch for the tips and a little more for the buttstrips. You can probably go finer, but cane is cheap. On the other hand,if you make your strips too wide your splices will get longer and youwill loose length. Geometry is a cruel master. I split with a junk woodchisel ground on both sides and a mallet. Make your first whack at each split solid, not a little "tap" which will make the chisel bounce off the mark. One whack then a twist of the chiseland the strip is split. I've not tried the sanding disk method, but it sounded interesting.I cut the bevel on a bandsaw with a fine tooth blade and a little sliding jig, then a few passes with a plane in the splcing block willsmooth the cut ready for gluing. A grooved plane sole will preserveyour splicing block. If you haven't got a grooved plane that mightbe a priority.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. On Mon, 10 May 1999, Jim Utzerath wrote: The archives are very helpful and CB's update really got me convinced. However Istill have questions about nodeless construction before I get startedsplicing. What is the street wisdom about heat treating before versus aftersplitting? If you heat treat before, how close to the final maximum width can yousafely split?(It looks like Garrison added 1/3 but this partially allows for HTshrinkage.) What is the current thinking about the "sanding disk" method? (Ipurchased a 10" disk from Wood Worker's Supply that fits on a table saw and seems veryprecise. I am workingon an adjustable jig that slides in the saw's miter groove. The advantage I expect is that the disk can be set up to rotate directly into the fibers atthe point ofthe scarf and reduce tear-out for either right or left hand bevels. Shouldn't this workas well as a beat-up splicing block?) from jfoster@gte.net Mon May 10 10:09:14 1999 Subject: [Fwd: Bamboo rod tapers] boundary="------------8791BD018CE413A6A7CB8B0E" This is a multi-part message in MIME format.-------------- 8791BD018CE413A6A7CB8B0E --------------8791BD018CE413A6A7CB8B0E (InterMail v03.02.04 118 119) with ESMTP Subject: Bamboo rod tapers Dear Sir,I am trying to locate a good working taper (preferably factory original) of the Horrocks Ibbotson Tonka Queen 7'9", # 5 wt. I would appreciate ifyou could help me or point me inn the right direction. Thank you. TomMcDonnell --------------8791BD018CE413A6A7CB8B0E-- from tom@cet-inc.com Mon May 10 10:55:03 1999 0000 Subject: PA/NY Gathering boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0050_01BE9ADC.FEDF9220" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BE9ADC.FEDF9220 boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0051_01BE9ADC.FEDF9220" ------=_NextPart_001_0051_01BE9ADC.FEDF9220 This year's Roscoe Gathering, will be held in PA. Maybe we should call =it the Mid-Atlantic Gathering. Anyway, attached is a preliminary =announcement with information on dates, lodging, etc. in response to =many inquiries. Tom Whittle> from drodgers@ddaccess.net Mon May 10 11:57:37 1999 ddasvr1.ddaccess.comwith SMTP (Microsoft Exchange Internet Mail Service Version 5.5.2232.9) Subject: Master Rodmaker Glenn Brackett boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE9AE4.914B3A40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE9AE4.914B3A40 I was down in San Antonio, TX at a shop that carries R.L. Winston =equiipment. They had a really nice 7' new R.L. Winston bamboo rod. =(Should be nice for $2550) The gentlemen in the shop said that Glen =Brackett made the rod and that due to his eye sight that he would only =be making rods for another 5 years, that his apprentice only had 10 =years experience in building cane rods. I notice that the R.L. Winston =catalog shows a picture of Glenn Brackett taken in 1965. In the catalog =he is referred to as a "..master bamboo rodmaker..." in 1965.Is Glen Brackett still working for R.L. Winston as a bamboo rodmaker =and/or who makes their rods? Also, do they have an apprentice? Dan ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE9AE4.914B3A40 I was down in San Antonio, TX ata = carries R.L. Winston equiipment. They had a really nice 7' new R.L. = bamboo rod. (Should be nice for $2550) The gentlemen in the shop said = Brackett made the rod and that due to his eye sight that he would only = rods for another 5 years, that his apprentice only had 10 years = building cane rods. I notice that the R.L. Winston catalog shows a = "..master bamboo rodmaker..." in 1965.Is Glen Brackett still working for= as a bamboo rodmaker and/or who makes their rods? Also, do they have apprentice? Dan ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE9AE4.914B3A40-- from cattanac@wmis.net Mon May 10 12:04:23 1999 mail4.wmis.net (8.8.8/SCO5) with SMTP id NAA18449 for; Mon, 12:52:17 -0400 Subject: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? I am often amazed how nothing ever works right the first time forme. And so ithas been with GrayChat. I am using FrontPage98 to create said site - butthere is thisslight flaw - because I am not a 'domain' I can't create a root web withchild webs -that is what is needed to have a registration discussion area. They saythatFrontPage2000 will cure that but it won't be released until june. SO - I amregisteringa domain - which they say will be in place in a couple of days and then theD**** thingwill work right. Life was simpler with a card reader.Richard - call me at 616-675-5894 and I will share with you all thatI havelearned in the past 2 weeks of early morning evenings. It really is quitesimple - evenin rural Canada Corners.Sue - I'm sorry - You and some 150 folks must have thought it was agood thingto check out this weekend. Patients - remember you are dealing withTroutBums here from brookie@frii.com Mon May 10 13:55:48 1999 Subject: Re: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? rodM list and Wayne, chuckling here, we gotta talk over this patience thing ! wayne had said in part : Sue - I'm sorry - You and some 150 folks must have thought it was a good thing to check out this weekend. Patients - remember you are dealing with TroutBums here I AM a TroutBum too ( I think ), but I am not patient. I AM realizing that to be a cane builder, one must have this virtue. I have been working on this *P* virtue all my life. It ain't easy ! What's the RodM. definition of a TroutBum anyway ? You live, breath, expend time money and energy for and onall manner of items activities and issues relating to flyfishing sue> from RVenneri@aol.com Mon May 10 14:04:13 1999 Subject: Re: PA/NY Gathering Tom,I was not able to read you download. It must be a word doc I only haveword perfect or lotus. Perhaps you could copy and paste the whole page to word pad. Every one could read this. Best regards,Bob VVenneri's 21 Chuck Hill RdSaugerties NY 12477rvenneri@aol.com914 246 5882http://hometown.aol.com/RVenneri/index.html from BThoman@neonsoft.com Mon May 10 14:07:02 1999 Subject: RE: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? Speaking of patience, how many rodmakers out there would say they arepatient? People who see my rods say I must be but how wrong they are! I'llbe the first to say that I'm the most impatient person I know. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 -----Original Message-----From: Sue K. [SMTP:brookie@frii.com]Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:48 PM Subject: Re: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? rodM list and Wayne, chuckling here, we gotta talk over this patience thing ! wayne had said in part : Sue - I'm sorry - You and some 150 folks must have thought it was a good thing to check out this weekend. Patients - remember you are dealing with TroutBums here I AM a TroutBum too ( I think ), but I am not patient. I AM realizing that to be a cane builder, one must have this virtue. I have been working on this *P* virtue all my life. It ain't easy ! What's the RodM. definition of a TroutBum anyway ? You live, breath, expend time money and energy for and onall manner of items activities and issues relating to flyfishing sue from arnold.jl@pg.com Mon May 10 14:52:14 1999 [192.44.184.129] 1998)) id8525676D.006D1BFF ; Mon, 10 May 1999 15:51:45 -0400 Subject: RE: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? Brian, The word is probably determined. I don't think patience even comesinto play for me. Especially when it comes to using a new rod. Jeff "Thoman, Brian" on 05/10/99 03:05:50 PM Please respond to bthoman@neonsoft.com Subject: RE: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? Speaking of patience, how many rodmakers out there would say they arepatient? People who see my rods say I must be but how wrong they are!I'llbe the first to say that I'm the most impatient person I know. Brian ThomanThe Chattahoochee River Rod CompanyParker, Coloradohttp://www.bambooflyrods.com(303) 805-5733 -----Original Message-----From: Sue K. [SMTP:brookie@frii.com]Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:48 PM Subject: Re: Test 123 - Helloooooo??? rodM list and Wayne, chuckling here, we gotta talk over this patience thing !wayne had said in part : Sue - I'm sorry - You and some 150 folks must havethought it was a good thing to check out this weekend.Patients - remember you are dealing with TroutBums here I AM a TroutBum too ( I think ), but I am not patient. I AMrealizing that to be a cane builder, one must have this virtue.I have been working on this *P* virtue all my life. It ain'teasy ! What's the RodM. definition of a TroutBum anyway ?You live, breath, expend time money and energy for and onall manner of items activities and issues relating to flyfishing sue from djk762@hotmail.com Mon May 10 15:17:39 1999 Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:33:38 PDT Subject: Storage of bamboo CULMS Rodmakers, Sorry I was vague. I live in Sacramento Ca- summertime temps are often 100+. My attic and garage get HOT! I am concerned about the long term effects of heat on culms of bamboo. Any advice? Thanks All,David Kashuba _______________________________________________________________Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com from djk762@hotmail.com Mon May 10 15:18:39 1999 Sat, 17 Apr 1999 07:07:09 PDT Subject: Storage of bamboo CULMS Rodmakers, Sorry I was vague folks. I am concerned about long term storage of culms of tonkin in a HOT attic or garage. I live in Sacramento Ca.- summertime temps often get 100+. Any cautions or advice? Thanks all,David Kashuba _______________________________________________________________Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com from HARMS1@prodigy.net Mon May 10 15:25:37 1999 Mon, 10 May 1999 16:25:25 -0400 Subject: Re: Treating Grips =_NextPart_000_01BE9B01.49F4B8C0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9B01.49F4B8C0 Add in a touch of single-malt, Jack Daniels, or Guiness (dealer's choice),and you have a grip for all seasons. Cheers, Bill ----------From: Reed Curry Cc: rodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu *Subject: Re: Treating GripsDate: Saturday, May 08, 1999 6:49 AM Chris,Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I've found that an excellent treatmentis theapplication of a mixture of fish-slime, sweat ( from fear of losing thedonor of thefish-slime), fly-floatant, line-dressing, and tears. Apply this liberallyat leastthirty times a year and the rod will be better for it every year; so willyou.Best regards,Reed Chris Wohlford wrote: I've used Baby Oil and have heard of Tung Oil being used toprotect/treat newly formed grips. Was wondering if anyone had anyothersuggestions? Regards, Chris Wohlfordemail: chris@artistree.com------ =_NextPart_000_01BE9B01.49F4B8C0 Add in a touch of = fish-slime), fly-floatant, line-dressing, and tears. Apply this = protect/treat newly formed grips. Was wondering if anyone had any other= ------=_NextPart_000_01BE9B01.49F4B8C0-- from tom@cet-inc.com Mon May 10 16:22:07 1999 0000 Subject: Re: PA/NY Gathering Sorry, I tried to us an attachment to save list space. PreliminaryAnnouncement follows: 1999 Mid-Atlantic Rodmaker's Gathering. Boiling Springs, PA. September11- 12, 1999. This gathering, traditionally (for the past four years) held inRoscoe, NY the weekend after Labor Day is being held in Pennsylvania thisyear to promote the new Pennsylvania Fly Fishing Museum Association.BoilingSprings is just south of Carlisle, PA, accessible by Route 81 and the PATurnpike. The gathering will be held at the Allenberry Resort Inn & Playhouse on theYellow Breeches Creek. The meeting room at the Inn will handle up to 100attendants. There will be vendor booths available for rent during theGathering for those suppliers of the cane rod industry. Lunches will beprovided on both Saturday and Sunday. Allenberry has donated space forthenew PA Fly Fishing Museum. Museum displays are planned to be finished bytheSeptember Gathering. Attendees have at least two options for lodging. There is lodging availableat Allenberry for approximately $120, double occupancy. Check theResort'swebsite @ www.allenberry.com or call toll free 800-324-8716. The SleepInnin nearby Carlisle (4 miles from Boiling Springs) has reserved 30 roomsforthe gathering @ $52 single or double occupancy, including a continentalbreakfast. Call the Sleep Inn @ 717- 249-8863 and mention "RodmakersGathering" to get the special rate. The Sleep Inn is a new hotel along Rt.81. The Sleep Inn property borders the Heritage Trout water on the famousLetort limestoner. The Marinaro Meadow, owned by Cumberland Valley Chapter of TroutUnlimited,across the stream from the Sleep Inn, is available for the traditionalinformal "chili pot" picnic on Friday evening, Sept. 9th. Cumberland ValleyTU will be holding their annual "Last Supper" picnic in the Meadow onSaturday evening the 10th. Gathering registrants will be invited to attendthe "Last Supper" for a small donation. This year's gathering is about 1 mile away from where the first PAGatheringwas held in 1990. There has been a lot of interest in returning to PA. Withall the excellent fishing opportunities in the Cumberland Valley and theexcellent meeting facilities, we anticipate a very successful gathering.Registration materials will be available soon. If you want additionalinformation or would like to pre-register for the Gathering, email TomWhittle @ tom@cet-inc.com. For information on fishing in PA check the PAFish and Boat main page at http://www.state.pa.us/PA_Exec/Fish_Boat/. ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: PA/NY Gathering Tom,I was not able to read you download. It must be a word doc I only havewordperfect or lotus. Perhaps you could copy and paste the whole page towordpad. Every one could read this. Best regards,Bob V from cbogart@shentel.net Mon May 10 18:16:55 1999 mtiwmhc06.worldnet.att.net(InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Mon, 10 May 1999 23:16:22 +0000 "utzerath@execpc.com" boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862640=_=_=_"Subject: Re: Nodeless questions? --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862640=_=_=_ Jim 1 - The earlier you are able to heat treat - the better is the split. 2 - See John Bokstrom article on this matter - it is on FrankNuenemans website. 3 - Planing the splice is not time consuming ( Jim 1 - The earlier you are able to heat treat - the better is the split. 2 - See John Bokstrom article on this matter - it is on Frank Nuenemanswebsite. 3 - Planing the splice is not time consuming (<10 sec) anywoodworker will tellyou the bestglue joint is made from a freshly planed surface - sanding leaves raggiesand dustbehind - not a goodsurface for gluing - not as strong. Chris --Original Message Text---From: Jim UtzerathDate: Mon, 10 May 1999 06:02:39 -0500 The archives are veryhelpful and CB's update really got me convinced. However I still havequestions aboutnodeless construction before I get started splicing. What is the street wisdom about heattreating beforeversus after splitting? If you heat treat before, how close to thefinal maximumwidth can you safely split? (It looks like Garrison added 1/3 but thispartially allows What is the current thinking about the"sanding disk"method? (I purchased a 10" disk from Wood Worker's Supply that fits on atable saw andseems very precise. I am working on an adjustable jig that slides in thesaw's mitergroove. The advantage I expect is that the disk can be set up to rotatedirectly intothe fibers at the point of the scarf and reduce tear-out for either right orleft handbevels. Shouldn't this work as well as a beat-up splicing block?) --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862640=_=_=_-- from andy@w-link.net Mon May 10 18:39:53 1999 Subject: Re: Master Rodmaker Glenn Brackett As far as I know Glenn is still making rods. The apprentice is a verypleasant and apt builder named Jeff Walker. Andy RoyerThe Bamboo Brokerbamboo@w-link.net(206) 935-4414 ph(206) 935-5515 fax -----Original Message----- Subject: Master Rodmaker Glenn Brackett I was down in San Antonio, TX at a shop that carries R.L. Winstonequiipment. They had a really nice 7' new R.L. Winston bamboo rod. (Shouldbe nice for $2550) The gentlemen in the shop said that Glen Brackett madethe rod and that due to his eye sight that he would only be making rods foranother 5 years, that his apprentice only had 10 years experience inbuilding cane rods. I notice that the R.L. Winston catalog shows a pictureof Glenn Brackett taken in 1965. In the catalog he is referred to as a"..master bamboo rodmaker..." in 1965.Is Glen Brackett still working for R.L. Winston as a bamboo rodmakerand/orwho makes their rods? Also, do they have an apprentice? Dan from jaquin@netsync.net Mon May 10 19:43:36 1999 "utzerath@execpc.com" Subject: Re: Nodeless questions? Chris Bogart wrote: Jim 1 - The earlier you are able to heat treat - the better is the split. 2 - See John Bokstrom article on this matter - it is on FrankNuenemans web site. 3 - Planing the splice is not time consuming ( will tell you the bestglue joint is made from a freshly planed surface - sanding leavesraggies and dust behind - not a goodsurface for gluing - not as strong. Chris --Original Message Text---From: Jim UtzerathDate: Mon, 10 May 1999 06:02:39 -0500 The archives are very helpful and CB's update really got me convinced.However I still have questions about nodeless construction before Iget started splicing. What is the street wisdom about heat treating before versus aftersplitting? If you heat treat before, how close to the final maximum width can yousafely split? (It looks like Garrison added 1/3 but this partiallyallows for HT shrinkage.) What is the current thinking about the "sanding disk" method? (Ipurchased a 10" disk from Wood Worker's Supply that fits on a tablesaw and seems very precise. I am working on an adjustable jig thatslides in the saw's miter groove. The advantage I expect is that thedisk can be set up to rotate directly into the fibers at the point ofthe scarf and reduce tear-out for either right or left hand bevels.Shouldn't this work as well as a beat-up splicing block?)hello list, anybody have plans available for making a scarfing blockala Tom Penrose's plans for final planing forms? tia, Jerry from LECLAIR123@aol.com Mon May 10 19:53:09 1999 Subject: Re: My first rod In a message dated 5/9/99 11:15:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time, richard.nantel@videotron.ca writes: It's a lot of work getting to this point, but it's worth it.Enjoy and keep at it. Dave L. from Craig.Naldrett@ibm.net Tue May 11 01:17:09 1999 out2.ibm.net (8.8.5/8.6.9) with ESMTP id GAA90958 for; Tue,11 May 1999 06:17:05 GMT Subject: Re:DH 7' 4wt Thanks for responses folks, think I've got it sorted out now. As I'm newat this think I'll build one tip to original Cattanach specs & one toSir D taper & if I can build them right see if I can sort out which Ilike for my casting/fishing.CheersCraig from utzerath@execpc.com Tue May 11 06:38:30 1999 Subject: Re: Nodeless questions? (2) boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE9B78.E6DBD520" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE9B78.E6DBD520 Thanks for all the responses. At the risk of beating this to death, I =would like to pose the following: from Chris's reply, I take it that heat treating the unsplit section is =preferred to the "cookie sheet full of chop sticks" that was described =earlier. Now Chris referred me to John Bokstrom's fine article on =splitting full length splines. (I myself have only started splitting =and have found I'm two klutsy to avoid run-outs this way-I like to = With the nodeless technique and pre-treated sections, shouldn't I be =able to split sections to within 0.030" of the finished width with =practice. (Would you believe 50?) Next some people are using the sanding/milling technique. (I can plane =a spline in 20 seconds in my dreams.) Does anyone know for sure whether=sanded versus planed (and filed) bamboo glues up stronger. I think it =might vary with the adhesive. I am trying both methods right now and =either joint breaks in the wood so its hard to tell. Has anyone else =looked into this? One gentleman is looking for splicing block plans. I think I saw some = from Chris B's original article at cibercom.net/~bconner/rod.html. =Otherwise, Garrison has no less than three (for different purposes). =E- mail me off-group and I'll try to get you something. Once again. Thanks all. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE9B78.E6DBD520 this to death, I would like to pose the following: from Chris's reply, I take it that heat treating the = section is preferred to the "cookie sheet full of chop sticks" = splitting and have found I'm two klutsy to avoid run-outs this way-I = re-split at each node.) With the nodeless technique and pre-treated = shouldn't I be able to split sections to within 0.030" of the = anyone know for sure whether sanded versus planed (and filed) bamboo = methods right now and either joint breaks in the wood so its hard to = Has anyone else looked into this? One gentleman is looking for splicing block = something. all. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE9B78.E6DBD520-- from 76250.1771@compuserve.com Tue May 11 09:26:02 1999 Subject: Ruben Barkley Frank-I purchased a 7', 5wt Ruben Barkley about 8 years ago. Actually it's a 7' 11/2" rod. If I remember correctly , Mr. Barkley was an amatuer west coastrodmaker who retired to build rods full time. After his death (1950's??) asmall cache of finished rods were found by his family some years later.Dave Holloman replaced the reelseats on those rods and brokered themthruvarious collectable tackle dealers. Dave now owns the Payne Rod Co...youcan call him @ 541-549-1544. He can probably fill you in on Mr. Barkley. Dennis from rodsmiths@imt.net Tue May 11 11:35:25 1999 Subject: Re: Master Rodmaker Glenn Brackett ED004FF003317C4D3BC838E8" --------------ED004FF003317C4D3BC838E8 Dear Dan & others, I saw the posting about Glenn Brackett and thought that I would add someadditional information. Glenn came to work for me soon after I boughtWinston Rod Company in 1973. He started in 1974. He has been thereever since. Glenn had no previous bamboo experience before coming towork at Winston. I was very excited when Glenn came to work at Winstonbecause he brought a tremendous amount of fishing experience that iscritical to rod design. Glenn is, in my opinion, a master bamboo rodmaker. Glenn has beeninvolved in every aspect of building rods and has built hundreds. Hehas also refinished several hundred. Glenn has been a careful studentof bamboo rodmaking and has kept meticulous notes about the rods he hasrefinished and made. How long he will continue to build rods I don'tknow. He is about 60 now. I also can't comment about his eyesightbecause I don't know whether it is bad or not but he hasn't indicated soto me. Jeff Walker has been working at Winston since the middle '80s in thebamboo area so would have more than ten years experience. Jeff is avery bright individual and has contributed a lot to Winston's bamboorodmaking. He is also a very meticulous craftsman that takes a lot ofpride in his work. Jerry Kustich also works in the bamboo area in production of sections. Tom Morgan drodgers wrote: I was down in San Antonio, TX at a shop that carries R.L. Winstonequiipment. They had a really nice 7' new R.L. Winston bamboo rod.(Should be nice for $2550) The gentlemen in the shop said that GlenBrackett made the rod and that due to his eye sight that he would onlybe making rods for another 5 years, that his apprentice only had 10years experience in building cane rods. I notice that the R.L. Winstoncatalog shows a picture of Glenn Brackett taken in 1965. In thecatalog he is referred to as a "..master bamboo rodmaker..." in1965.Is Glen Brackett still working for R.L. Winston as a bamboorodmaker and/or who makes their rods? Also, do they have anapprentice? Dan --------------ED004FF003317C4D3BC838E8 Dear Dan & others,I saw the posting about Glenn Brackett and thought that I would add cameto work at Winston because he brought a tremendous amount of fishingexperiencethat is critical to rod design. been student of bamboo rodmaking and has kept meticulous notes about the rods his eyesight because I don't know whether it is bad or not but he hasn'tindicated so to me.Jeff Walker has been working at Winston since the middle '80s in the a very bright individual and has contributed a lot to Winston's bamboo of pride in his work.Jerry Kustich also works in the bamboo area in production of sections. drodgers wrote: was downin San Antonio, TX at a shop that carries R.L. Winston equiipment. Theyhad a really nice 7' new R.L. Winston bamboo rod. (Should be nice for$2550)The gentlemen in the shop said that Glen Brackett made the rod and thatdue to his eye sight that he would only be making rods for another 5 years,that his apprentice only had 10 years experience in building cane rods.I notice that the R.L. Winston catalog shows a picture of Glenn Bracketttaken in 1965. In the catalog he is referred to as a "..master bamboorodmaker..."in 1965.Is GlenBrackettstill working for R.L. Winston as a bamboo rodmaker and/or who makestheir --------------ED004FF003317C4D3BC838E8-- from gaff@carol.net Tue May 11 17:33:27 1999 Subject: montague new yorker hi guys,purchased a montague new yorker (boat rod) in boston area this weekend,and would like some info on this rod. it is a 5' 2" rod with a footlong wood handle, the wraps are red/white or red/yellow and in goodshape.hardware looks like plated brass. any info appreciated.wil from johanyga@online.no Tue May 11 18:03:09 1999 Wed, 12 May 1999 01:03:04 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: SV: My first rod Richard, I am going to build The Para 15 in the nearest future. Did you build boththe wet and dry fly tips ? If you did, which one did you like best ? RegardsJohan Nygaardsvold ----------Fra: Richard Nantel Til: Rodmakers Emne: My first rod I fished my first completed cane rod yesterday, builton a PHY Para 15 taper. What a joy! The rod's actionis smooth and powerful, able to make long casts eveninto the wind. I caught two 14-inch browns and abeautiful brook trout. Many thanks to the dozens ofgenerous builders who helped me get to this point overthe past few months. A few special thanks are in orderto Terry, Chris, Dave, Russ, and Brian. Richard from cbogart@shentel.net Tue May 11 18:11:11 1999 mtiwmhc05.worldnet.att.net(InterMail v03.02.07 118 124) with SMTP Tue, 11 May 1999 23:10:38 +0000 "utzerath@execpc.com" boundary="_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862576=_=_=_"Subject: Re: Nodeless questions? (2) --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862576=_=_=_ Jim You got it wrong! Heat treat BEFORE you split - It will split mucheasier.Whoeverdid the splitting before heat treating after splitting just did not get themessage.Look at it like splitting green oak and well seasoned oak. Heat treating the sectionsreally makessplitting a joy. One of the small details people miss in the "Digger" movieis that his whole culms are heat treated (he has access to an industrialoven). As for planing a splice - if you take more than 10 seconds = you are aklutz.My students have no problem mastering this. I did testing on glues which have been reaffirmed - go with theplaned splice.Fordetails see archives. Lastly - Do not try John Bokstrum's method until you becomeproficient as arodmaker.When you start you should play it safe and just split to 24 strips ratherthan trying tomaximize orminimize your planing - the planing is good training. Chris --Original Message Text--- Thanks for all the responses. At the risk of beating this to death, I wouldlike topose the following: from Chris's reply, I take it that heat treating the unsplit section ispreferred tothe "cookie sheet full of chop sticks" that was described earlier. Now Chris referred me to John Bokstrom's fine articleon splittingfull length splines. (I myself have only started splitting and have found I'm two klutsy to avoid run-outs thisway-I like tore-split at each node.) With the nodeless technique and pre-treated sections, shouldn't I be ableto splitsections to within 0.030" of the finished width with practice. (Would you believe 50?) Next some people are using the sanding/milling technique. (I can plane aspline in 20seconds in my dreams.) Does anyone know for sure whether sanded versus planed (and filed) bamboo glues upstronger. Ithink it might vary with the adhesive. I am trying both methods right now and either joint breaks in the wood soits hard totell. Has anyone else looked into this? One gentleman is looking for splicing block plans. I think I saw some fromChris B'soriginal article at cibercom.net/~bconner/rod.html. Otherwise, Garrison has no less than three (fordifferent purposes).E-mail me off-group and I'll try to get you something. Once again. Thanks all. --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862576=_=_=_ Jim You got it wrong! Heat treat BEFORE you split - It will split mucheasier.Whoeverdid the splitting before heat treating after splitting just did not get themessage.Look at it like splitting green oak and well seasoned oak. Heat treating the sectionsreally makessplitting a joy. One of the small details people miss in the "Digger" movieis that his whole culms are heat treated (he has access to an industrialoven). As for planing a splice - if you take more than 10 seconds = you are aklutz.My students have no problem mastering this. I did testing on glues which have been reaffirmed - go with the planedsplice.Fordetails see archives. Lastly - Do not try John Bokstrum's method until you become proficientas arodmaker.When you start you should play it safe and just split to 24 strips ratherthan trying tomaximize orminimize your planing - the planing is good training. Chris --Original Message Text---From: Jim UtzerathDate: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:38:38 -0500 Thanks for all the responses. At the riskof beating thisto death, I would like to pose the following: from Chris's reply, I take it that heattreating theunsplit section is preferred to the "cookie sheet full of chop sticks" thatwasdescribed earlier. Now Chris referred me to John Bokstrom's fine articleon splittingfull length splines. (I myself have only started splitting and have foundI'm twoklutsy to avoid run- outs this way-I like to re-split at each node.) With the nodeless technique and pre-treated sections,shouldn't I be able to split sections to within 0.030" of the finished widthwithpractice. (Would you believe 50?) Next some people are using thesanding/milling technique.(I can plane a spline in 20 seconds in my dreams.) Does anyone know forsure whethersanded versus planed (and filed) bamboo glues up stronger. I think itmight vary withthe adhesive. I am trying both methods right now and either joint breaksin the wood soits hard to tell. Has anyone else looked into this? One gentleman is looking for splicingblock plans. Ithink I saw some from Chris B's original article atcibercom.net/~bconner/rod.html.Otherwise, Garrison has no less than three (for different purposes). E-mail meoff- group and I'll try to get you something. Once again. Thanks all. --_=_=_=IMA.BOUNDARY.HTML_4862576=_=_=_-- from FlyfishT@aol.com Tue May 11 19:30:57 1999 Subject: Leonard Taper Hello. I am making my first bamboo fly rod. I have both sections glued andI am getting ready to mount the ferrules. I am making a 6'3" Paul Youngmidge rod. At this point, I'm already looking ahead for my next rod. Does anyone have a Leonard 7 or 7 1/2 foot taper? The archives only have a 6' 10" 4/5 weight. Tom Nigro from sniderja@email.uc.edu Wed May 12 07:36:42 1999 Subject: small rod tapers Below is the taper (action length 5' 2") some of you requested for theOrvis 6' 6wt one piece. 1 0.0865 0.10310 0.12215 0.13220 0.14425 0.15930 0.17135 0.18440 0.198 45 0.20950 0.22555 0.23960 0.25762 0.275 The stress curve for this rod appears very similar to the one for TomSmithwick's 5' 6" 5 wt., and the latter is one sweet casting rod. Indeed,the main difference between the 6' Orvis and the 5' 6" Smithwick seems tobe from the 50" station on down. Tom's rod is heavier in the butt sectionthan the Orvis, and you can feel the Orvis all the way to the butt(although it is in no way a "wimp" of a rod). I have cast the 6' 6 wt andvery much like the feel of it. I am building one at the moment, in anodeless format, so don't know how much that will change the feel of therod. I have also thought about building the Smithwick model using theOrvismeasurements in the butt section. Another short rod for those of you so interested is a 5' 3/4wt. I havebuilt two of these for a couple of Montana ranchers/fly fishers (as gifts)who seem to think that the rod is "the berries." This rod throws anextremely tight looped line, and casts very nicely out to 35-40 feet. I wasbuilding an A. J. Thramer taper for a 4'4" 4 wt rod (of which I have builtthree and like the taper very much) and at the last moment (in a fit ofemotional frenzy) decided to experiment and extend the rod to 5'. I am sureyou modelers and engineer types will cringe at this type ofexperimentation(done with absolutely no forethought) and likely will feel that the taperreflects such. However, several folks cast the rod at a recent local flyfishing show and seemed to like the taper. Indeed, I had another request 1 0.0715 0.07410 0.08915 0.10220 0.11825 0.13630 0.15135 0.16340 0.17945 0.19650 0.22055 0.22060 0.220 Jerry Snider from cotner@novagate.com Wed May 12 08:27:22 1999 Subject: Disregard this test from cotner@novagate.com Wed May 12 09:37:14 1999 Subject: test - please disregard testing list re-up from richard.nantel@videotron.ca Wed May 12 11:13:33 1999 Internet MailServer sims.3.5.1999.03.02.17.58.p5)with SMTP id forrodmakers@wugate.wustl.edu;Wed, Subject: Line selection Sorry for this small detour away from rodmaking butI've built a Para 15 based on the taper in thearchives taken from Young's beveller setup. It casts aDT5 Floating line very nicely. I need a sinking linewhich I can't seem to find in DT, only weight formard.Am I better off going to a WF5 or a WF6? I need theline pronto to fish a lake this weekend. Long casts,nymphs and streamers, perhaps a bit of wind, that sortof thing. Many thanks, Richard from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au Wed May 12 12:27:07 1999 Thu, 13 May 1999 01:26:28 +0800 (WST)(envelope- from tyoung@perth.dialix.com.au) Subject: Re: Line selection Richard,try a WF5. Tony On Wed, 12 May 1999, Richard Nantel wrote: Sorry for this small detour away from rodmaking butI've built a Para 15 based on the taper in thearchives taken from Young's beveller setup. It casts aDT5 Floating line very nicely. I need a sinking linewhich I can't seem to find in DT, only weight formard.Am I better off going to a WF5 or a WF6? I need theline pronto to fish a lake this weekend. Long casts,nymphs and streamers, perhaps a bit of wind, that sortof thing. Many thanks, Richard /***********************************************************************/ Q. How many Microsoft personel does it take to change a light bulb? A. None. They change the new standard to "Darkness" Tony Younghttp://www.iinet.net.au/~mainpeak/flyrod.html /***********************************************************************/ from stetzer@csd.uwm.edu Wed May 12 14:15:48 1999 batch3.csd.uwm.edu (8.8.4/8.6.8) with ESMTP id OAA10209 for (8.8.4/8.6.8) withSMTP id OAA05716 for ; Wed, 12 May Subject: Are NS ferrules old technology? This is just a minor rant, for what its worth... Couldn't ferrules be re-engineered so that they would do theirjob (holding the rod together) without all the fussing to fitto the rod and to each other? I can go into the discount storeand for $25 ($45 Canadian) buy my kids a plastic spinning or fly rod, which they will use and abuse for years, on which the ferrules will NEVER stick, or get too loose, whether it's January or July. It just seems like its the year 2000 (almost) and we are using hundred-year old technology. I'm no materials engineer, but I'd like to have one look at ferrules and figure out something. It seems to my simple mindthat there are three obvious areas improvements: (1) Replacethe NS with some other material that wouldn't oxidize, at least onthe mating surfaces. (How many materials have been invented for similarapplications in the past 50 years? Probably hundreds.); (2) Taper the mating surfaces so they would fit out of the box, and continue to fit after wear, and (3) make them fit hexagonal rods (OK make a few for pentas too). Thats it.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and a Employed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from Ed.Estlow@co.hennepin.mn.us Wed May 12 14:39:58 1999 199919:38:04 UT 16-1998)) id8625676F.006BB103 ; Wed, 12 May 1999 14:36:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Are NS ferrules old technology? from my racing days........, "Speed costs money son. How fast do you wanttogo?" Sure. It can be done. Remember though, the technology that goes into thoserods from K-Mart is amortized over thousands (millions?) of rods. I suspect ourresource pool is a bit smaller. My opinion.... Best regards,-Ed Estlow Frank Stetzer on 05/12/99 02:15:43 PM Please respond to stetzer@csd.uwm.edu cc: Subject: Are NS ferrules old technology? This is just a minor rant, for what its worth... Couldn't ferrules be re-engineered so that they would do theirjob (holding the rod together) without all the fussing to fitto the rod and to each other? I can go into the discount storeand for $25 ($45 Canadian) buy my kids a plastic spinning orfly rod, which they will use and abuse for years, on which theferrules will NEVER stick, or get too loose, whether it's January orJuly. It just seems like its the year 2000 (almost) and we areusing hundred-year old technology. I'm no materials engineer, but I'd like to have one look atferrules and figure out something. It seems to my simple mindthat there are three obvious areas improvements: (1) Replacethe NS with some other material that wouldn't oxidize, at least onthe mating surfaces. (How many materials have been invented for similarapplications in the past 50 years? Probably hundreds.); (2) Taperthe mating surfaces so they would fit out of the box, and continue tofit after wear, and (3) make them fit hexagonal rods (OK make a few forpentas too). Thats it.......................................................................Frank Stetzer "...a cheerful comrade is betterstetzer@uwm.edu than a waterproof coat and aEmployed by, but not speaking for foot-warmer." Henry Van Dyke,Univ of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, USA "Fisherman's Luck", 1899. from briansr@point-net.com Wed May 12 16:07:41 1999 0000 Subject: Re:line selection Richard IMHO save your money. Buy a sink tip leader(the braided Boronimpregnated ones) to the rate of sink of your choice.Quick and easy todo.For Spey fishing (when you build THAT rod) you can even daisy chainthem together.Cheers Brian from wgray@uidaho.edu Wed May 12 16:44:26 1999 OAA14709 12 May 199921:48:52 UT Subject: Re: Are NS ferrules old technology? Frank, One approach might be to coat the ferrules with a teflon or t-fal type coating or coat one side, like only the male or female end, if coating both would prove too expensive or have other problems.